Pravas Darshan

Author(s): Ramanlal C Shah
Publisher: Mumbai Jain Yuvak Sangh
Catalog link: https://jainqq.org/explore/002033/1

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DaoN. ramaNalAla vI. zAha sAhitya saurabha - graMtha-pa pravAsa darzana saMpAdaka: prA. jazavaMta zekhaDIvAlA zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha prakAzana

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TUJUT MILILINE #dodaria pravAsa darzana 'pravAsadarzana' DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAhanA pravAsa graMtho - 'pAsaporTanI pAMkhe' - bhA.1, 2, 3mAM saMgRhIta lekhomAMnA pratinidhirUpa 47 lekhonuM saMpAdana che. temAM lekhake vividha nimitte pRthvI paranA tamAma khaMDonA vividha dezonA karelA pravAso vizenA lekhonuM saMkalana thayuM che. sarasatA, vaividhya ane avanavI mAhitI uparAMta badhA khaMDonA dezonAM darzanIya sthAnonuM pratinidhitva jaLavAya e dRSTie temanI pasaMdagI thaI che. lekhakanI pravAsalekhaka tarIkenI surekha chabI temAMthI svaMyameva Upase tevuM tenI pAchaLanuM lakSya che. DaoN. 2. cI. zAha utsAhI jagatapravAsI che. vividha nimitte temaNe lagabhaga 70 dezonA pravAso kheDyA che. saharAnA raNathI mAMDI AphrikAnA araNyo ane uttara dhruva vartuLanAM barphilAM medAno ane parvato sudhI temaNe paribhramaNa karyuM che. temaNe khullI-nirmaLa-sUkSma dRSTie, AnaMda-vismaya-kutUhala-jJAnaprAptinA bhAvapUrvaka, vividha dezopradezonAM, ramaNIya romAMcaka ane bhayAnaka dRzyo nihALyAM che ane temanuM saMvedanA - kalpanA - vicArayukta, surekha ane rasaLatuM nirUpaNa saraLa madhura pravAhI citrAtmaka zailImAM karyuM che. pravAsakathAnA temanA nirUpaNamAM lAghava, vyaMjanA, vaividhya anubhavAya che. prasaMgopAtta temAM haLavo nirdoSa vinoda paNa hoya che, paraMtu kyAMya anAvazyaka lAge tevuM Alekhana ke AyAsajanya ciMtana kaLAtAM nathI, kazuM kRtaka kutsita jovA maLatuM nathI, | vivecako ane vAcako dvArA ghaNA prazaMsita A pravAsalekho ane temanA lekhaka DaoN. 2. cI. zAhanuM gujarAtInA pravAsa sAhityamAM | Jain Ed viziSTa sthAna che. For Private & Personal use onls

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LONS CU TIN en Education international www.jaimelibrary.org

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Do. ramaNalAla cI. zAha sAhityasaurabha - graMtha : 5 pravAsa-darzana saMpAdaka : pro. jazavaMta zekhaDIvALA saMyojaka : Do. dhanavaMta zAha prakAzaka : zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha 33, mahaMmadI minAre, 14mI khetavADI, muMbaI - 400 004. mukhya vikretA : Ara. Ara. zeThanI ku. muMbaI - amadAvAda

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DR. RAMANLAL C. SHAH SAHITYA SAURABH - 5 *PRAVAS-DARSHAN" Collection of articles on travelling written by Dr. Ramanlal C. Shah Edited by Prof. Jashwant Shekhadiwala Published by SHREE MUMBAI JAIN YUVAK SANGH 33, Mohmandi Minar, 14th Khetwadi, Mumbai - 400 004. (India) No Copyright pahelI AvRtti : 15 oNgasTa, 2006 pRSTha : 30 + 370 + 16 = 416 chabI saMpuTa nakala : 500 kiMmata: rU. 260 mukhya vikretA : 110/112, prinsesa sTrITa kezavabAga, muMbaI 400 002 Teli. : (022) 22013441 Ara. Ara. zeThanI kuM. TAipaseTiMga zAradA mudraNAlaya 201, tilakarAja, paMcavaTI pahelI lena, AMbAvADI, amadAvAda-380 006 : phona : 26564279 mudraka caMdrikA prinTI mirajhApura, roDa, amadAvAda - 380001 'dvArakeza' raoNyala epArTamenTa pAse, khAnapura, amadAvAda 380 001 Teli. : (079) 25506 573

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graMtha-pa arpaNa DaoN. ramaNabhAI ane amArA saMghanA rAhabara zrI paramANaMda kuMvarajI kApaDiyAne... Ape ramaNabhAInuM hIra pArakhyuM ane amane maLyA saMghavAhaka amArA ramaNabhAI - zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha

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ramaNalAla cI. zAha sAhitya saurabha graMtha zreNI graMtha 1. jaina dharmadarzana 2. jaina AcAra-darzana 3. caritradarzana 4. sAhityadarzana 5. pravAsa-darzana 6. sAMprata samAja-darzana 7. zrutaupAsaka DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAha saMpAdaka DaoN. hasu yAjJika DaoN. jitendra bI. zAha DaoN. pravINa darajI DaoN. prasAda brahmabhaTTa .prA. jazavaMta zekhaDIvALA .prA. jazavaMta zekhaDIvALA pro. kAMti paTela (sahasaMpAdaka) zrImatI nirubahena zAha, uSAbahena zAha, puSpAbahena parIkha

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prakAzakIya nivedana DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAha ApaNA zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghanA AtmA hatA, ane Aje paNa che. temaja jyAM sudhI A saMsthAnI gati-pragati thatI raheze, ane e puNyAtmaka jyAM jyAM viharato haze tyAMthI A saMsthAne preraNA ane AzIrvAda maLatA raheze. zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghanI sthApanA 3 jI phebruArI 1929mAM thaI. eTale A saMsthAe 77 varSa pUrA karI 78 varSamAM praveza karI dIdho che. Do. ramaNalAla cI. zAhane have ame ahIM ramaNabhAI ja kahIzuM kema ke amArA haiye A saMbodhana ja sthira thaI gayuM che, ane raheze. ramaNabhAI 1952mAM 26 varSanI umare A saMsthAmAM pravezyA ane jIvananA aMtima dina sudhI kAryarata rahyA. A saMsthA sAthe emano pa3 varSano dIrgha saMbaMdha. A saMsthAnA koI paNa sabhya Aja divasa sudhI ATalI dIrgha phaLadAyI sevA A saMsthAne nathI ApI zakyA. ramaNabhAI prathama saMsthAnI kArobArI samitimAM joDAyA, te samaye pU. paramANaMdabhAI kApaDiyA ane pU. cImanalAla cakubhAI zAhe ramaNabhAImAM raheluM hIra pArakhyuM ane ramaNabhAIne eka pachI eka javAbadArI soMpatA gayA, je ramaNabhAIe niSThApUrvaka bajAvI ane pratyeka kAryathI saMsthAne UjaLI karI. 1982mAM pU. cImanabhAInA svargavAsa pachI ramaNabhAIe A saMsthAnuM pramukhapada ane 'prabuddha jIvana'nuM taMtrIpada svIkAryuM ane jAhera jIvananA badhA pada choDavAnA temaNe nakkI karelA siddhAMtone kAraNe 1996mAM potAnI 70 varSanI umare saMsthAnA pramukha padethI rAjInAmuM ApI saMsthAnI

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kArobArI samitinA sabhya banI rahI aMtima zvAsa sudhI saMsthAne pUrepUruM mArgadarzana ApyuM. sana 1972mAM ramaNabhAIe saMsthAnI suprasiddha paryuSaNa vyAkhyAnamALAnuM pramukhapada svIkAryuM. A pramukhapade pahelAM kAkA kAlelakara, pU. paMDita sukhalAlajI ane pU. gaurIprasAda jhAlA sAheba jevA vidvAna manISI birAjyA hatA. ramaNabhAIe jIvananA aMtima zvAsa sudhI A vyAkhyAna mALAnuM jatana karyuM ane preraNAdAyI pravacano ApavA mATe dareka saMpradAyanA pU. sAdhu-sAdhvI bhagavaMto, anya dharmAcAryo ane bhAratanA prasiddha vidvAna vyAkhyAtAone nimaMtryA ane vyAkhyAnamALAne pramukhapade eozrI jIvananA aMtima zvAsa sudhI satata 33 varSa birAjyA. ramaNabhAI eTale aNizuddha suzrAvaka ane karuNAno jIva. keTalAMka varSa pahelAM ramaNabhAIne eka uttama vicAra Avyo ke A vyAkhyAnamALAmAM dharma jijJAsu varga Ave che. e sarvanA hRdayamAM AvA parvanA divase karuNAnI ane dAnanI bhAvanA hoya ja. vaLI vicAryuM ke gujarAtanA pachAta vistAramAM ghaNI badhI evI uttama saMsthA che je dhanane abhAve potAnA sevA kAryane AgaLa vadhArI zakatI nathI. eTale paryuSaNa vyAkhyAnamALA pahelAM yuvaka saMghanI kArobArI samitinA sabhyone sAthe laI saMsthAnI mulAkAta laI evI saMsthA mATe paryuSaNa daramiyAna tenI yogyatA ane jarUriyAta tapAsI dAnanI vinaMti karavAnuM nakkI karyuM, AnA pariNAme Aja sudhI gujarAtanI 21 saMsthAone kula poNAtraNa karoDanA dAnano mAtabara phALo prApta thayo che ane e badhI saMsthAe Aje khUba ja vikAsa karI sevA kSetre aneruM pradAna karyuM che. pU. ramaNabhAInA uttama vicAranuM A atizubha ane sarvajana kalyANakArI pariNAma che. A saMsthAnuM vartamAna mukhapatra "prabuddha jIvana' che. 1929mAM saMsthAe potAnuM mukhapatra "muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha patrikA'nA nAmathI zaru karyuM ane 1933mAM "prabuddha jaina" ane pachI 1953mAM "prabuddha jIvana" nAma dhAraNa karI jIvananA vizALa phalakane sparzavAno saMkalpa karyo. eTale saMsthAnA mukhapatrano itihAsa paNa 77 varSano che. koI paNa prakAranI jAhera khabara na levAnA, ane bIje chapAyelA lekha na levAnA siddhAMtane vareluM A mukhapatra Aje 78 mAM varSamAM praveze che, eno yaza Aja sudhInA ciMtaka mahAnubhAva mAnad maMtrIo temaja jijJAsu vAcakone jAya che. pU. ramaNabhAI pUrve A mukhapatronA taMtrIsthAne zrI maNIlAla mokamacaMda zAha, zrI paramAnaMda kuMvarajI kApaDiyA ane zrI cImanalAla cakubhAI zAha jevA prakhara ciMtako ane samAja sudhArako birAjyA hatA. sana 1982mAM "prabuddha jIvana'nuM taMtrI

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sthAna pU. ramaNabhAIe svIkAryuM ane vividha viSayothI temaja jaina dharmanA UMDA tattva lekhothI "prabuddha jIvana'ne jJAnanA khajAnAthI tarabatara karI dIdhuM. saMsthA ane samAja A RNa koI rIte cUkavI zake ema nathI. pU. ramaNabhAI potAnI upasthitimAM ja "prabuddha jIvana' temaja paryuSaNa vyAkhyAnamALAnuM sukAna amArA hoMzIlA, vidvAna, kartavyaniSTha, dRSTi saMpanna dhanavaMtabhAIne soMpI "prabuddha jIvana'nA taMtrI sthAnane mATe ucita veLAsara pasaMdagI karI amane AjanI ciMtAmAMthI mukta karI gayA. jJAnIjanone to ArSadRSTi hoya ja. dhanavaMtabhAInA taMtrI sthAne AjanuM "prabuddha jIvana" pU. ramaNabhAI ane anya vidvAna pUrvasUrionI yazagAthAne ujaLI karI rahyuM che enI pratIti thatAM amArA sarvanuM mastaka ramaNabhAI prati - "DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAha sAhitya saurabha'nA graMthonI yojanA pU. ramaNabhAInI upasthitimAM ja ame karI hatI. amArI A yojanAnI saMmati pU. ramaNabhAI ApatA na hatA. svaprazaMsAno karmadoSa lAge e bhAra AvA jJAnIjana kema svIkAre ? paraMtu amArA Agraha ane prema pAse eozrI haLavA thayA ane amane saMmati ApI. A jJAnIjana tyAre kadAca koIka darzana' pAmI gayA haze. A graMthonA saMyojaka ane vidvAna saMpAdakonI pasaMdagI paNa eozrIe karI hatI. - ramaNabhAInA vipula sAhityanuM vAcana karavuM ane enuM cayana karI vividha viSayonA graMthamAM ene samAvavuM e sAgaramAMthI motI zodhavA karatAM paNa kaThina kAma, kAraNa ke ramaNabhAInA sAhitya sAgaramAM to motI ja motI. A sAruM ane A enAthI vizeSa sAruM evI spardhA ahIM zakya ja nathI. jaDIbuTTI zodhatA hanumAnajI jema jaDIbuTTI zodhI na zakyA ane Akho pahADa UMcakI lAvyA, evI vimAsaNa pratyeka vidvAna saMpAdake ahIM anubhavI haze ja. paraMtu toya kartavya dharmamAM sthita A sarva vidvAna saMpAdakoe athAga bhagIratha parizrama karyo ane ApaNA mATe A sAta graMthonuM nirmANa karyuM. A vidvAna saMpAdako prA. jazavaMta zekhaDIvALA, DaoN. hasu yAjJika, DaoN. pravINa darajI, DaoN. jitendra zAha, DaoN. prasAda brahmabhaTTa ane amArA aMtaraMga vidvAna mitra vidvAna prA. kAMti paTela. A sarva mahAnubhAvone amAruM hRdaya pUrA AdarathI namana kare che. uparAMta "zruta upAsaka DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAha' graMthanA saha saMpAdako, A saMsthAnI kArobArI samitinA amArA sabhyo nIrubahena zAha, puSpAbahena parIkha

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ane uSAbahena sAhano AbhAra to kema manAya ? emanA parizramane abhinaMdu chuM. yojanA taiyAra to thAya paNa ene AkAra ApavA satata puruSArtha karavo paDe evo puruSArtha amArI mudraNa samitinA sabhyo sarvazrI bhUpendrabhAI DAhyAbhAI javerI, zrI gAMgajIbhAI pI. zeThiyA, zrI uSAbahena pI. zAha, zrI vasubahena bhaNazAlI ane zrI javAharabhAI nA. zukle karyo, ane satata parizrama karI A samitinA sabhyoe amane gauravavaMtA karyAM che. saMghabaLanuM A saMghaphaLa che. A sarve pratye ame hRdayano AnaMda ja vyakta karIe chIe. uparAMta A graMtha nirmANa mATe satata doDadhAma karanArA amArA karmaniSTha karmacArIo mukhyatve menejara zrI mathurAdAsabhAI TAMka, bhAI azoka palasamakara, bhAI haricaMdra navALe, bhAI manasukhabhAI mahetA ane bahena zrI jayAbahena vIrAne to kayA zabdomAM navAjIe ? haiyuM, hAma ane hAtha A traNeno sumeLa hoya to ja zubha AkAra prApta thAya. badhI sAmagrI ane sAhitya ekatrita ka2vA mATe pU. tArAbahena ane pU. 2maNabhAInA suputrI bahena zrI zailajAne ame khUba khUba parizrama Apyo che. emanA rAta-divasanA puruSArtha vagara A graMtho ATalA badhAM samRddha ane zobhita na ja thAta. emanA prati mAtra RNa bhAvathI vizeSa lakhIe to emano mITho Thapako anubhavavo paDe. A badhI parikalpanAnA sUtradhAra saMyojaka amArA sarvenA nAnAbhAI jevA, buddhidhana dhanavaMtabhAIne to amAre AjJA ka2vAnI ja hoya, ane AjJA karatA rahevAnA ja. hRdayamAM sthira thayelA A amArA nAnAbhAIne zabdathI zuM kAma bahAra AvavA daIe ? ATalA vizALa kAryano ame AraMbha to karyo, paNa manamAM dhanarAzinI ciMtA hatI. paNa sAthe sAthe zraddhA paNa hatI ja. paraMtu pU. ramaNabhAInI suvAsa ane amArA pUrva sUrionA puNya ane puruSArthano amane anokho anubhava thayo, ene camatkAra paNa kema na kahevAya ? 'prabuddha jIvana'nA 16 phebruArIno 'DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAha smaraNAMjali saMpuTa' aMka vAcako pAse jevo pahoMcyo ane emAM chellA pRSTha upara 'DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAha sAhitya saurabha' graMthonI mAhitI pragaTa thatAM ja e ja mAsanI 20-22 tArIkhanA AsapAsa ja eka dAnavIra suzrAvakano amane phona Avyo, ane namratApUrvaka amane A graMtho mATe mAtabara rakama svIkAravAnI vinaMtI karI ane tarata ja mAtabara rakamano 8

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ceka mokalI Apyo ! pU. ramaNabhAI AvA keTakeTalAM zubha AtmAmAM birAjyA haze ? amArA keTalA badhAM sadbhAgya ke amane AvA suzrAvaka jJAnIjanano sahavAsa ane sadbhAva prApta thayo ! A dAtA pratye amArA hRdayamAM anero pUjya bhAva pragaTa thayo che, ane eozrInA puNya karmone ame vaMdana karIe chIe. A vAMcanAra sarvenA hRdayamAM paNa AvA ja bhAvo AMdolita thaze evI amane zraddhA che. A graMthone khUba ja kALajIpUrvaka ApaNI pAse pahoMcADavA mATe TAIpa seTiMga ane mudraNa kArya mATe amadAvAdanA zAradA mudraNAlayanA zrI rohitabhAI koThArI ane caMdrikA prinTarInA zrI rUpalabhAI desAI uparAMta muMbaInA mudrAMkananA zrI javAharabhAI zukla temaja mukhapRSTanI yathAyogya suMdara DijhAIna mATe zrI mohanabhAI doDecAno aMtarathI AbhAra mAnIe chIe. A graMthonI jAherAta thatA ja AgotarA grAhakoe potAnuM nAma noMdhAvI amane protsAhita karyA. e mATe e sarvano paNa hRdayathI AbhAra. satata sAta mAsanA parizramathI ane eTalI ja utAvaLathI A graMtho taiyAra thayA. eTale koI paNa kSatinuM darzana thAya to amane kSamA karazo. uparAMta Apane ramaNabhAInuM koI apekSita sarjana ahIM najare na paDe to amArI graMthanA pRSThonI maryAdA che ema samajI amane daragujara karazo, paNa Apano pratibhAva jarUra jaNAvazo. Aje A graMthonuM prakAzana thaI rahyuM che tyAre ramaNabhAI ApaNI pAse nathI, che mAtra emano jJAna prakAza ane zabdonA tejapUMjathI jhaLahaLatuM eozrInuM jJAna jagata. A sAta graMtho ApanA karakamaLamAM mUkatA ame dhanyatA anubhavIe to chIe, paNa sAthosAtha tarpaNa bhAvano saMtoSa amArA romeromamAM AMdolita thaI rahyo che. eno AnaMda ApanI pAse kyA zabdomAM darzAvIe ? A AMdolanane pU. ramaNabhAInA AtmAno sparza maLe evI kALadevatAne prArthanA. dhanyavAda. tA. 15-8-2006 zrI muMbaI jena yuvaka saMghanA | sarva sabhyo vatI zrI rasikalAla laheracaMda zAha pramukha

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saurabha graMthonI sarjanayAtrA zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha pratye AkarSaNa ane ahobhAva mane kaoNleja kALathI hato. eTale lagabhaga 40 varSathI 'prabuddha jIvana'nuM niyamita vAcana karato hato ane jJAna- zravaNa arthe pratyeka paryuSaNa vyAkhyAnamALAmAM acUka javAnuM thatuM ja. AvA saMbaMdhane kAraNe aMta2thI kyAre saMghamaya thaI gayo enI khabare ya na paDI, ane e thakI hRdayamAM koI ajabogajabanuM saMskAra ghaDatara thatuM gayuM. mAtAnA garbhamAM bALaka vikasatuM jAya ema A vAtAvaraNathI aMta2mAM koI anivarcanIya tattva vikasatuM gayuM. A kAraNe sarva prathama to zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghane khamAsaNa bhAve namana karuM chuM. pU. 2maNabhAI ema.e.mAM amane bhASA zAstra zikhavatA hatA. vaLI teo jaina yuvaka saMghamAM sakriya kAryakara hatA. eTale e kAraNe emanA pratye vizeSa bhAvAnubaMdha thayo. jema jema eozrInI najIka thato gayo tema tema emanI vidvatA ane emanA zrAvakAcArathI abhibhUta thato gayo. aMtaranA koIka khUNe mArA e rola moDela banI gayA. trIseka varSa pahelAM ame sahu adhyApaka saMmelanamAMthI pAchA pharatAM hatAM tyAre pU. ramaNabhAI ane pU. tArAbahene pitR-mAtR bhAvathI mane yuvaka saMghamAM joDAvA kahyuM. mAre mana e AjJAbhAva hato, ane saMghano lAIpha membara thaI meM emAM praveza karyo. mArA jIvananI e ati zubha ane sadbhAgI ghaDI hatI. basa pachI to 2maNabhAI mArA upara varasatA gayA, basa varasatA gayA, ane eka pachI eka kAmo mane soMpatA gayA. mAruM ene parama sadbhAgya gaNuM chuM. sAhebano preraka ane AnaMdaprada sahavAsa, eozrI sAthenA pravAso, temaNe yojelA jaina sAhitya samAroha ane parisaMvAdo vageremAMthI ghaNuM jIvana pAtheya maLI rahetuM. zrAvaka jIvana vizenA emanA vicAro ane AcArano subhaga samanvaya temanA jIvanamAM jovA maLato. jIvananA marmo hasatA hasatA sAheba ApaNane samajAve e eozrInI viziSTatA. 10

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- pU. sAhebanuM lagabhaga badhuM ja sAhitya vAMcavAno mane lAbha maLyo. e badhuM ja uttama ane jIvanane UrdhvagAmI banAve evuM tattvazIla che. 'prabuddha jIvana' pragaTa thAya eTale vahelI savAre pU. sAhebano lekha vAMcavAno niyama thaI gayo. emanA vicArone manamAM vAgoLuM ane sAheba sAthe e lekha vize vizeSa jANakArI meLavuM. ApaNe e lekhanI prasaMzA karIe to sAheba mauna smita sAthe, nispRha bhAve e jhIlI le, ane zaMkAnuM samAdhAna kare, pU. sAhebe temano "gUrjara phAgu sAhitya' graMtha mane mokalyo. navuM pustaka pragaTa thAya eTale sAheba acUka snehI mitro ane abhyAsIone mokale. e graMtha vAMcIne huM to avAk ja banI gayo. ATaluM badhuM parizrama pUrvakanuM saMzodhana temaja gahana ciMtana meM bhAgye ja koI graMthamAM joyuM che. utsAhathI meM sAhebane phona karyo, dasa miniTa sudhI huM bolato ja rahyo, ane chelle kahyuM, "sAheba A graMthane to DI.lITa nI upAdhi maLavI joIe, paradezamAM AvuM saMzodhana Ape karyuM hota to...' to sAmA pakSe sAhebanuM mAtra mauna ja, ane chelle-upAdhyAya yazovijayajI kRta "adhyAtmasAra' ane jJAnasAra'... be graMtho eozrI pAsethI jaina jagatane maLyA e to ApaNA saunuM parama sadbhAgya. e graMthonuM vizad ciMtana ahIM eka lITImAM zuM samAvuM ? ane e mATe huM adhikArI paNa nathI. eka vakhata phona upara vAto karatA karatA meM sAhebane kahyuM ApanuM sAhitya jagata vizALa che, enuM cayana karI cAra pAMca graMtho taiyAra thAya to aneka jJAnapipAsune vizeSa lAbha maLe. koNa jANe kema e ghaDI ApaNA mATe zubha haze, to sAhebathI saheja bolAI gayuM. 'hA hamaNAM ja mitra prA. jazavaMta zekhaDIvALAe paNa mane evuM sUcana karyuM hatuM paNa bIjI ja paLe e vAkyathI dUra laI javA mane bIjI vAtoe vaLagADI dIdho. huM samajI gayo ke sAhebanI mane A vAta kahevAnI icchA na hatI. paNa emanAthI "kahevAI gayuM ! e emane dukha hatuM. ajANatA thaI gayelA AvA sUkama karmo pratye paNa sAheba ATalA sabhAna ! paNa A vAta mArA manano keDo na choDe. manamAM saMtoSa thayo ke mane jevo vicAra Avyo evo ja vicAra sAdhu carita prA. jazavaMta zekhaDIvALA sAhebane paNa Avyo che. eTale A kAma karavA jevuM to che ja, ane kudaratano AmAM nakkI kaMI saMketa che. pachI jyAre jyAre sAhebane phona karuM tyAre A vAta karuM, sAheba e vAtane TALe ane huM pAcho tyAM ne tyAM ja pahoMcuM ane sAheba sAthenI vAtomAMthI mAMDa mAMDa "nA" no cheda uDAvI zakyo. jo ke "nA" na pADavAmAM

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paNa mArA premane dukha na pahoMce e ja emano vizeSa bhAva hato. e huM samajI gayo hato. tarata ja muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghanI kArobArI samitimAM tA. 211-2005nA pU. ramaNabhAInI upasthitimAM ja meM prastAva mUkyo ane sAheba koI paNa hA nA kare e pahelAM sarva sabhyoe e prastAvane AnaMda utsAhathI vadhAvIne maMjUrInI mahora mArI dIdhI, ane sayojakanI javAbadArI sarve vaDIloe mane soMpI, mAruM e sadUbhAgya. tarata ja bIje divase sAheba sAthe vigate carcA karI saMpAdaka mATe pU. sAheba kahe, "zekhaDIvALA sAheba ja A kAma mATe pUrA adhikArI che. eozrI sAthe carcA karo, ane anya saMpAdako paNa eozrInI sUcanA mujaba nakkI karo.' meM tarata ja pU. zekhaDIvALA sAhebane phona karyo. eozrI khUba ja prasanna thayA. amAre phona upara vAto thatI rahI. ane anya saMpAdakomAM vidvadvarya DaoN. hasu yAjJika, DaoN. pravINa darajI ane DaoN. prasAda brahmabhaTTane vinaMtI karavAnuM nakkI karyuM. A nAmo meM sAhebane jaNAvyA. sAhebe saMmati ApI. A cayana graMthonI sAtho sAtha sAhebanA jIvana vize paNa eka graMtha taiyAra thAya evo ama manamAM bhAva janmyo ane meM bahena zailajAne phona karI sAhebanA badhA ja phoTogrApha ekatra karavA kahyuM. bIje divase ja sAhebano mane phona Avyo, ane mane kahyuM "Avo graMtha taiyAra na karazo. ane mArA mATe koI pAsethI lekha ke abhiprAya na maMgAvazo. mAtra sAhitya saMcaya ja karo." vyaktinI hayAtImAM Avo graMtha taiyAra thAya to prazaMsAno karmadoSa lAge, sAheba AvA karma baMdha mATe sabhAna hatA. sAhebano marma huM samajI gayo. meM sAhebane manomana namana karyA. A graMthanI gati dhIre dhIre AgaLa vadhatI gaI. gokaLagAya gati ja samajo. sAhebane tabiyate sAtha na Apyo. mAre phona upara "prabuddha jIvana" pUratI ja vAta thAya ane vAtavAtamAM to pU. sAheba ApaNAthI dUra thaI gayA !! paNa juo, vidhinI kevI vicitratA ! pU. sAhebe jIvana prazaMsA lakhAvavAnI nA pADI hatI. e ja kAma amAre paheluM karavuM paDyuM. sAheba vizenA "prabuddha jIvananA be aMko navembara 2005no "zraddhAMjali' aMka ane jAnyuArI 2006no "DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAha smaraNAMjali saMpuTa' aMka. e baMnne aMkonA samanvaya rU5 graMtha Aje "zrutaupAsaka DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAhanA zIrSakathI ApanA karakamaLamAM mukAya che. pU. sAhebanuM jIvana 12

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ane guNo prakAzita na thAya evuM kALadevatAne paNa maMjUra na hatuM. guNo DhAMkeya DhaMkAtA nathI. smaraNikA "aMka mATe lekhakone vadhu samaya ApavAno avakAza na hato. chatAM lekhono pravAha vaheto gayo. keTalAka lekhane samaya maryAdAne kAraNe e aMkamAM samAvI na zakAyA. eTale banne aMkono samanvaya ane pachIthI AvelA lekho, eTale, "zruta upAsaka 2. cI. zAha' graMtha. uparano smaraNikA aMka taiyAra thayA pachI e aMkanI prApti mATe aneka patra vinaMti amane maLyA eTale e aMka pharI chApavo paDyo. A zrata upAsaka' graMthanA preraNA strota e jijJASajano ane pU. sAhebanA cAhako che. pU. sAhebanA jIvananA vividha prasaMgo, emanI sAttvika pratibhA ane emanA guNa sAmrAjyanuM eka vizva ApaNI samakSa ughaDyuM jenAthI ApaNe to zuM, paNa ghaNAMe ajJAta hatA. sAhebanuM jIvana AvuM preraka. graMthonAM nirmANano prAraMbha karavA DisembaramAM pro. jazavaMtabhAI zekhaDIvALAne tyAM DaoN. hasubhAI yAjJika, DaoN. pravINa darajI ane DaoN. prasAda brahmabhaTTa sAthe ame ekatra thayA. murabbI zrI zekhaDIvALA sAhebanuM uSmAbharyuM Atithya ame sarvee mAryuM. mArA mATe to vidvad darzana hatuM. sarve vidvAna saMpAdakoe kAryano AraMbha karyo. nirdhArita gati pragati thatI gaI. e daramiyAna amArA sabhyo ane cAhakoe pU. sAhebanA jaina dharma vizenA lekhono eka khAsa graMtha thAya evuM AgrahapUrNa sUcana karyuM. pU. sAheba to sarvadharma ciMtaka hatA. koI eka vartuLamAM ja emane kema rakhAya ? paraMtu jaina dharma vize eozrInuM gahana adhyayana ane ciMtana vizeSa che e paNa eTaluM ja satya. meM. pU. zekhaDIvALA sAhebane ane murabbI DaoN. hasubhAI yAjJikane A hakIkata jaNAvI ane eozrIe mArI A vAta tarata ja svIkArI eTale meM mArA aMtaraMga mitra vidvAna ciMtaka ane jaina dharmanA gahana abhyAsI DaoN. jitendrabhAI zAha upara mitrahaka ajamAvI dIdho. koIpaNa prakAranI "hA...nA'nI carcA vagara DaoN. hasubhAI yAjJika ane DaoN. jitendrabhAI maLyA ane ApaNane be graMtha "jaina dharma darzana" ane "jaina AcAra darzana' prApta thaI rahyAM che. zruta upAsaka DaoN. 2. cI. zAha' graMthanA saMpAdananI javAbadArI amArA saMghanI kArobArI samitinA sabhyo bahenazrI nirubahena zAha, puSpAbena parIkha ane uSAbahena zAhe saMbhALI kAmano prAraMbha karyo. paraMtu ame vicAryuM ke A graMthane paNa mUrdhanya vidvajanano sAtha maLe to sonAmAM sugaMdha maLe. eTale pU. tArAbene ziSya haka ane meM mitra hakano upayoga 13

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karI vidvAna prAdhyApaka zrI kAMtibhAI paTelane vinaMti karI. zrI kAMtibhAI pU. sAhebanA ziSya, ane sAhebano ziSyo pratye prema evo ke badhA hoMze hoMze e nirNayane hRdayamAM samAvI le. sarve vidvAna saMpAdakoe abhyAsa karI khUba ja parizrama laI A sAte graMthanuM sarjana karyuM che. mitra prAdhyApaka prasAda brahmabhaTe to mudraNa vyavasthA paNa saMbhALI. A saveno aMta:karaNathI AbhAra mAnuM chuM. uparAMta A graMtha nirmANa mATe je je mahAnubhAvoe potAno puruSArtha A kAryamAM sicyo che e sarveno nAmollekha amArA pramukhazrIe prakAzakIya nivedanamAM karyo che, e bhAvamAM huM mArA bhAvanuM AropaNa karuM chuM. A graMthonI sAmagrI ekaThI karavAmAM sakhata ane satata parizrama to pU. tArAbahena ane bahena zailajAe karyo che. e mArA moTAbena tulya pU. tArAbahenanA caraNomAM vaMdana karI bahena zailajAne abhinaMduM chuM. saMyojaka tarIke mane pasaMda karI mArA upara AvA AtmasaMtarpaka zubha kAma mATe vizvAsa mUkI mane mokaLA mane A kAma karavA dIdhuM ane mane aDhaLaka prema Apyo evAM muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghanI kArobArI samitinA sarve sabhyono AbhAra mAnavA mArI pAse zabdo nathI ja. e sarve pratye hRdaya name che. samagra graMtha racanAmAM mArI kAMI kSati dRSTie paDe to Apa sarve vAcaka mahAnubhAvo mane kSamA karazo. ' ane pU. sAhebanuM RNa to kaI rIte cUkavuM ? zakya ja nathI. huM bhale mULa adhyApakano jIva, paraMtu mArA udyogonA saMcAlanamAM khUba ja vyasta rahuM. sabhAgye pU. sAhebe mAro hAtha pakaDI lIdho ane udyoga vyApara jagatamAM pUro garakAva thaI jAuM e pahelAM ja pU. sAhebe mane samatulAmAM besADI dIdho. pU. sAhebe mArI lekhana cetanAne pheMka na mArI hota to huM mAtra vyApArI ja rahyo hota. A upakAra to bhavobhavamAM nahi cUkavI zakAze. A graMthonA vAcanathI ApaNA sarvanuM hRdaya vikasita thAya evI paramAtmAne prArthanA. tA. 15-8-2006 - dhanavaMta zAha epha-76, vinasa epArTamenTa, varalI sI phesa-sAutha, muMbaI-400018.

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sahunA ramaNabhAI zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha eka labdhapratiSThita saMsthA che. jIvananAM ghaNAM kSetre enI karuNApreraka ane saMskAralakSI pravRttione kAraNe samagra bhAratanI jaina saMsthAomAM enuM AgavuM ane mAnabharyuM sthAna che. ghaNI vyaktioe potAnuM sattva, sAmarthya ane sevA ApIne A saMsthAne mahAna banAvI che. A saMsthAnA 77 varSanA ItihAsamAM eka hRdayasaMtarpaka ghaTanA ghaTI rahI che. mArA pati ane saMsthAnA bhUtapUrva pramukha DaoN. ramaNabhAInA pragaTa thayelA sarva sAhityamAMthI cayana karIne cha graMtho ane temane zraddhAMjali arpatA lekhono eka graMtha "zruta upAsaka ramaNabhAI'-A sAta graMtha uparAMta temanA vyAkhyAnonI eka sI DI nA vimocanano prasaMga UjavAI rahyo che. A prasaMga eTale zrI jaina yuvaka saMghanA sabhyo ane 2maNabhAInA vizALa cAhakavarganA hRdayamAM ramaNabhAI pratye pragaTa thatA snehAdarano utsava. zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha sAthe ramaNabhAIno saMbaMdha AtmIya, anokho ane avarNanIya che. 1952 thI 2005 eTale pa3 varSano saMbaMdha. saMghanA sabhya, kamiTI membara, saMghanA pramukha, vyAkhyAnamALAnA pramukha ane "prabuddha jIvananA taMtrI tarIkeno saMbaMdha. Ama vividha stare sukhada, yazasvI ane phaLadAyI rahyo che. ramaNabhAI bhAgyazALI hatA. saMgha sAthenA saMbaMdhanI zarUAtamAM ja zrI maNIlAla mokamacaMda zAha, zrI ratibhAI koThArI, zrI paramAnaMdabhAI kApaDiyA, zrI cImanalAla cakubhAI zAha, zrI khImajI mAMDaNa bhUjapUriyA, mArA pitAzrI dIpacaMdabhAI zAha, zrI TI. jI. zAha vagere vaDIlonA prema ane sabhAva temane maLyA. temAM temaNe potAnI sevA ane AgavI sUjha umerIne ene aneka gaNo vistAryo. vaDIlonuM vAtsalya ane vizvAsa, samavayaskano prema ane potAnAthI nAnAno Adara ramaNabhAInI e moTI upalabdhi che. ramaNabhAIe jIvananA dareka kSetre potAnuM uttamottama yogadAna ApyuM. kuTuMba ke kaoNleja hoya, yunivarsiTI ke judI judI saMsthAo hoya, maMDaLa, adhyayana ke adhyApana, pravAsa, pravacana ke lekhana hoya, 15

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N.C.C. ke samAja sevAno koI prazna hoya. te dareka mATe temaNe mana mUkIne svayaM mahenata laIne saccAIpUrvaka kAma karyuM che. kyAMya UNapa, adhUrapa ke kacAza na rahe e mATe khUba prayatnazIla rahetA. tethI temanuM dareka kAma saMpUrNa, samucita ane suyaza apAvanAruM thayuM che. enAM ghaNAM kAraNo che. N.C.C. nI lazkarI tAlImane lIdhe zista, svAvalaMbIpaNuM ane apramattabhAva temanAmAM Avyo. jaina dharmanA abhyAsa, dharma ArAdhanA ane ciMtanapradhAna prakRtinA kAraNe temanAmAM jAgRti, kartavyaniSThA ane vyApaka karuNAbhAva Avyo. mAtApitAnA saMskAra ane pUrvajanmanA puNyodayane kAraNe temanA dareka kAryanA sArAM pariNAma AvyAM. dareka pravRtti ane paristhitimAM kaMIka zubha ane kalyANakArI tattva jovAnI dRSTine ane vicAraNAne kAraNe, kaMIka phaLadAyI karavAnI bhAvanAthI saMghanI pravRttimAM ramaNabhAI navuM navuM umeratA gayA. dareka tabakke temaNe saMghanA vikAsano vicAra karyo. paryuSaNa vyAkhyAnamALAmAM jaina dharmanA dareka phIrakAnA ane anya dharmanA sAdhusaMto, paMDito, vidvAnone AmaMtraNa ApatA. jIvananA vividha kSetre karuNAnI pravRttio, asthi sAravAra, netrayajJo, cAmaDInA rogonI sAravAra uparAMta Arthika rIte jarUriyAtamaMdane rAhata maLe tevI yojanAo uparAMta saMskAralakSI pravRttio, saMgIta vastRtvakalA, zikSaNa-sAhitya-arthazAstra, rAjakAraNa vagere viSayonI vividha vyAkhyAna zreNI, pustaka prakAzana vagere cAlu karyA. A sarva pravRttimAM sahu sabhyonI saMmati ane sahakAra temane maLyA kamiTInA sabhyono utsAhapUrvakano sahakAra, keTalAka kAmanI javAbadArI levAnI tatparatA, cIvaTathI kAma karavAnI taiyArI, pravRtti mATe phaMDa ekaThuM karavAnI temanI takedArI vagerethI 2maNabhAInuM kAma saraLa banatuM. kamiTImAM ekarUpatA ane kartavyaparAyaNatAnuM vAtAvaraNa rahetuM. pramukhasthAnethI nivRtta thayA pachI paNa A pravRttio cAlu rahI. AvI lokopayogI ane uttama pravRttione kAraNe saMsthAnI chabI vadhu ujjavaLa thatI gaI. saMsthAnA vikAsanI sAthe sAthe ane saMsthAnA kAraNe ramaNabhAIno potAno vikAsa ghaNo thayo. "prabuddha jIvana'nA agralekhonA nimitte sAhitya ane dharmano UMDo abhyAsa thayo. te temanA cAritrya vikAsamAM madadarUpa thayo. karuNAnA kAmane lIdhe judI judI saMsthAono pratyakSa paricaya thayo, tethI karuNAnAM kyAM ane kevAM kAma karavA jevAM che, temanA manamAM tenI vicAraNA satata thatI rahetI. yuvaka saMghamAM "dIpacaMda tribhovanadAsa TrasTamAM chapAyelAM temanA jainadharma viSayaka pustako, "prabuddha jIvana', jaina dharmanI keseTa deza-paradeza pahoMcyA. tethI temanA prazaMsaka varga ane temanuM mitra vartuLa vikasatuM gayuM. jaina yuvaka 16

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saMghanI pravRtti viSayaka vicAro ramaNabhAInA jIvanamAM agrasthAne rahetA. jema ramaNabhAInA hRdayamAM A saMsthA agrasthAne hatI tema saMsthAnA hRdayamAM 2maNabhAI Aje paNa jIvaMta che. saMsthAe ramaNabhAI mATenA ananya, akhUTa prema, lAgaNI, ane kRtajJabhAva vyakta karavA tathA ramaNabhAInI smRti jALavavA eka vizALa samAraMbhanuM Aje Ayojana karyuM che te dhanyavAdane pAtra che. AvI satata vikAsazIla saMsthA sAtheno saMbaMdha e amArA parivAra mATe gaurava ane dhanyatAno anubhava che. 2maNabhAI sahunA hatA ane sahunAM hRdayamAM temanuM premabharyuM sthAna che te jANIne AnaMdanI, kRtArthatAnI lAgaNI ame anubhavIe chIe. A samAraMbhane saphaLa banAvavA ghaNI vyaktioe potAnI zakti siMcI che, sadUbhAvapUrvaka samaya Apyo che teno vicAra karIe tyAre kRtajJa bhAvathI, AbhArathI te sahune amAruM mastaka name che. kono kono AbhAra mAnuM ? sahu prathama AbhAra paramahitakArI paramAtmAno jeNe mArA pati DaoN. ramaNabhAIne aDhaLaka bhAva darzAvanArA AvA snehIjano ApyAM. AbhAra zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghanI pUrva kAryavAhaka samitinA sabhyo temaja saMghanA sabhyono ane vizeSata: vartamAna kAryavAhaka samitinA padAdhikArIo, pramukha-zrI rasikalAla laheracaMda zAha, upapramukha-zrI caMdrakAMtabhAI zAha, maMtrIo-zrImatI nirubahena zAha, zrI dhanavaMtabhAI zAha, sahamaMtrI zrI varSAbahena zAha, koSAdhyakSa zrI bhUpendrabhAI jhaverIno ane samitinA anya sabhyo temaja saMghanA sarva sabhyono. jemanAM sadUbhAvabharyA nirNayane ane tene anurUpa kAryavAhIne kAraNe A prasaMganuM ane graMthonuM nirmANa thayuM. 1 AbhAra trizalA IlekTroniksanA sUtradhAra zrI zAMtibhAI ane zrI mahendrabhAIno jemaNe yuvaka saMghanI paryuSaNa vyAkhyAnamALAmAM DaoN. ramaNabhAIe ApelA vyAkhyAnonI keseTo uparAMta upalabdha anya keseTa samAvI laIne DaoN. ramaNabhAInA vyAkhyAnonI sI.DI. taiyAra karI. "prabuddha jIvana'nA navembaranA zraddhAMjali aMka ane jAnyuArInA smaraNAMjali aMkamAM saMdezA mokalanArA ane ramaNabhAIne AdarAMjali ApatA lekho mATe pU. sAdhusAdhvI samudAya, saMto, svajano, vaDIlo, mitro, vidyArthI bhAI-bahenono AbhAra mAnuM eTalo ocho che. te sahunA aMtarastalamAMthI premanA, prazaMsAnA, guNAnurAganA, kRtajJatAnA bhAvo kevA chalakAya che! vizeSata: DaoN. kumArapALa desAIno sahu prathama ramaNabhAInA jIvananI laMbANathI vigato ApI gujarAta ane muMbaInA vartAnapatromAM zraddhAMjali lekha ApavA 17

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mATe, kRtajJabhAve sahuno AbhAra. AbhAra cha graMthonA vidvAna saMpAdako - prA. zrI jazavaMta zekhaDIvALA, DaoN. pravINabhAI darajI, DaoN. hasubhAI yAjJika, DaoN. jitendrabhAI zAha, DaoN. prasAdabhAI brahmabhaTTa jemaNe DaoN. ramaNabhAInA vizALa sAhityano abhyAsa karI premathI parizrama laI A cha graMthonuM saMpAdana kArya karyuM. AbhAra "zrutaupAsaka ramaNabhAI' graMtha mATe sahAya karanAra traNa saMpAdaka baheno zrImatI nirubahena zAha, zrImatI puSpAbena parIkha, zrImatI uSAbahena zAhano. AbhAra "zruta upAsaka ramaNabhAI' graMthanA mukhya saMpAdaka vidvAna pro. kAntibhAI paTelano. pustakane suMdara ane gauravaprada banAvavA jarUrI badhI vigatono vicAra ane kAryavAhI karavA mATe ane prastAvanA lakhavA mATe. AbhAra saMghanI mudraNa kamiTino-mudraNa mATe jarUrI taiyArI mATe. AbhAra zrI javAharabhAI zuklano, have jeo amArAmAMnA eka che-bhAvathI ane kAryathI. zraddhAMjali ane smaraNAMjali aMkonA lekhone ekatra karI "mRtopAsaka 2maNabhAI" graMtha taiyAra karavA mATe. chellI ghaDInA pheraphAro ane sUcanone udArabhAve sahI, svIkArI, zramapUrvaka suMdara kAma karI ApavA mATe. snehI zrI mohanabhAI doDecA jemaNe graMthonA suMdara ane suyogya mukhapRSTha karI ApyA ane chabIonI goThavaNI mATe yogya mArgadarzana ApyuM e mATe eozrIno aMta:karaNapUrvaka AbhAra mAnuM chuM. AbhAra mi. sAMInAtha, ajitA ane anya karmacArI gaNano (merethona grupa) athAga mahenata laI phoTA ane citro skena karavA ane citronI suMdara goThavaNI karI ApavA mATe. zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghanA oNphisa sTAphane to kema bhUlAya ? sahuno hRdayapUrvaka AbhAra. saMghanA menejara zrI mathurAdAsabhAI TAMka jemaNe pustako ane prasaMgane saphaLa banAvavA mATe khUba jahemata laI, jarUra paDye musApharI paNa karI ane ucita kAryavAhI karIne tanatoDa mahenata karI e mATe emano hRdayapUrvaka AbhAra. saMghanA karmacArIgaNa zrI jayAbena vIrA, zrI azoka palasamakara, harIcaraNa, manasukhabhAI vagerenI niSThAbharI mahenata ane sahakAra mATe paNa AbhAra. AbhAra DaoN. gulAbabhAI deDhiyAno. jyAre paNa jarUra paDe tyAre nikaTanA svajanabhAve yogya sUcano ane mArgadarzana mATe, AbhAra putrI sau. zailajA ane jamAI zrI cetanabhAIno. yogya sUcano, mArgadarzana ane athAka mahenata mATe. prasaMga ane pustaka mATe jarUrI sAmagrI ekaThI karavI, jarApaNa UNapa ke kacAza na rahe, dareka 18.

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vastu yathAyogya ane saMpUrNa rIte saphaLa bane tenI takedArI rAkhavI vagere kAryo atyaMta niSThApUrvaka, pitRtarpaNanI umadA bhAvanAthI ane bhaktibhAvathI karavA mATe. AvA ja bhAvathI amArA putra amitAbha ane putravadhU surabhi amerikAthI yogya sUcano mokalatA rahyAM. temane kema bhUluM ? AbhAra, zrImad rAjacaMdra Azrama, dharamapuranA praNetA pU. DaoN. rAkezabhAIno ane temanA viDIyo DipArTamenTano-vizeSata: bahena darzitA kApaDiyA, bhakti cheDA ane caitAlI mAladeno ane anya sahAyakono. DaoN. ramaNabhAI pratye avarNanIya Adara ane sanmAnanI lAgaNIthI prerAIne DaoN. rAkezabhAIe AnaMdathI, cIvaTathI, svayaM rasa laI potAnA Azrama vAsIo pAse DaoN. ramaNabhAInA jIvana ane lekhana AdhArita viDiyoprojekzana taiyAra karAvyAM. temanAM sUjha-sahakAra, sadUbhAva mATe jeTalo AbhAra mAnuM teTalo ocho. zrutadevatA emanA para sadAya prasanna rahe. - navembara 2005 ane jAnyuArI 2006nA DaoN. ramaNabhAI vizenA 'prabuddha jIvana'nA zraddhAMjali ane smaraNAMjali aMkonI sAmagrIthI ane e aMkomAM pragaTa thanAra sAta graMthonI jAherAtathI prabhAvita thaI DaoN. ramaNabhAInA snehI suzrAvaka zrI sI. ke. mahetA sAhebe graMthanA prakAzana mATe udArabhAve saMghane mAtabara rakamanI Arthika sahAya karI amane nizcita karI dIdhA. emano AbhAra mAnavA mArI pAse zabdo nathI. AvA suzrAvaka para jina zAsananI kRpA varaso evI zubha bhAvanA. sauthI pahelo jemano AbhAra mAnavo joIe temano sauthI chello mAnuM chuM te amArA yuvaka saMghanA utsAhI maMtrI ane amArA baMnnenA svajanaamArA nAnAbhAI samAM DaoN. dhanavaMtabhAI zAhano. DaoN. ramaNabhAInA 7pamAM varSe pustakonA prakAzananI yojanA sahu prathama emaNe rajU karI traNa varSo sudhI yAda karAvI 2maNabhAI pAse te AgrahapUrvaka maMjUra karAvI. avasara Avye potAnA atyaMta vyasta jIvanamAMthI samaya kADhI suMdara ane saMpUrNa rIte kArya saMpanna karyuM. ramaNabhAI pratyenA Adara ane ahobhAvatI prerAIne, Azcaryajanaka vaphAdArI sAthe, utsAhathI, kyAMya kacAza na rahe te lakSamAM rAkhIne kArya karyuM. temanA vinA A kArya zakya ja nahotuM. snehabhAve sAthasahakAra mATe temanAM patnI smitAbahenano paNa AbhAra. bhagavAna mahAvIranI kRpA sahu para varasI raho. tA. 15-8-2006 - tArA ramaNalAla zAha 301, trideva naM. 1, bhakti mArga, muluMDa (pazcima), muMbaI-400 080 19

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saMpAdakIya pravAsa-darzananA lekho vize [ pravAsa-darzana DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAhanA pravAsagraMtho pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-bhA. 1, 2, 3mAM saMgRhIta lekhomAMnA pratinidhirUpa lekhonuM saMpAdana che. temAM lekhake, vividha nimitte, pRthvI paranA tamAma khaMDonA vividha dezonA karelA pravAso vizenA lekhonuM saMkalana thayuM che. sa2satA, vaividhya ane avanavI mAhitI uparAMta badhA khaMDonA dezonAM darzanIya sthAnonuM pratinidhitva jaLavAya e dRSTie temanI pasaMdagI thaI che. lekhakanI pravAsalekhaka tarIkenI surekha chabI temAMthI svayameva Upase tevuM tenI pAchaLanuM lakSya che. lekhake bIjA aneka pravAsagraMtho - pradeze jaya vijayanA, oNsTreliyA, nyUjhIlenDa, rANakapura tIrtha - paNa lakhyA che. temAMnA prathama traNa graMthomAMnA ghaNA lekhono samAveza pAsaporTanI pAMkhemAM thayo che, tethI te pustakomAMthI lekho pasaMda karyA nathI. rANakapuratIrthanI pustikAmAM lekhake karelA pravAsanuM varNana che, paraMtu te ItihAsa ane mAhitIpradhAna hovAthI, temAMno paNa koI aMza pasaMda karAyo nathI. eNvaresTanuM ArohaNa ane uttaradhruvanI zodha-saphara, pravAsagraMthane kaMIka maLatA chatAM, mukhyata: zodha-sapha2nAM ItihAsa ane saMzodhanavivecana rajU karatAM graMtho che. temAM viSaya-vastunuM saLaMgasUtrI nirUpaNa thayuM hovAthI temAMno koI aMza svataMtra lekha ta2Ike pasaMda thaI zake tema nathI, eTale temAMthI paNa koI prakaraNa pravAsa-darzanamAM levAyuM nathI.] * pravAsa-darzananA lekhaka DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAha gujarAtI bhASA-sAhityanA 20

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sanniSTha adhyApaka-saMzodhaka-vivecaka ane jUnI gujarAtI-apabhraMza-prAkRta-saMskRta bhASA-sAhityanA gaMbhIra abhyAsu tarIke jANItA che. teo ekAMkI nATakonA lekhaka tarIke sarjaka paNa che.1 (be22thI brigeDiyara pustakamAM saMgRhIta caritrAtmaka zabdacitromAM paNa temanI sarjakatAnA jhabakAra dekhAya che.) temanA uparokta pravAsagraMtho, khAsa karIne pAsaporTanI pAMkhenA traNa bhAga, temane gujarAtInA eka uttama pravAsakathAlekhaka tarIke siddha kare che. temanI A prakAranI noMdha have vAcako ane vivecako dvArA levAvA lAgI che. viSNuprasAda trivedI, caMdravadana mahetA, cI. nA. paTela, 'anAmI' jevA vivecakoe pAsaporTanI pAMkhene eka uttama pravAsakathA tarIke ane tenA lekhakane eka uttama pravAsakathAkAra tarIke umaLakAbhera biradAvyAM che. vAcakomAM pAsaporTanI pAMkhe pustaka ghaNuM lokapriya thayuM che. pariNAme alpa samayAvadhimAM tenI aneka AvRttio prakAzita thaI che. vizvavidyAlayomAM, gujarAtI viSayanA ucca abhyAsakramamAM, pAThyapustaka tarIke tene sthAna maLyuM che. gujarAtInI eka uttama pravAsakathA tarIke tenI gaNanA thaI che. tenA lekhaka - svAmI saccidAnaMda, bhoLAbhAI paTela, prIti senaguptAnI jema - utsAhI jagatapravAsI che. vividha nimitte temaNe eziyA, AphrikA, yuropa, utta2-dakSiNa amerikA, oNsTreliyA, nyUjhIlenDanA lagabhaga 70 dezonA pravAso kheDyA che. saharAnA raNathI mAMDI AphrikAnAM araNyo ane uttara dhruva vartuLanAM barphilAM medAno ane parvato sudhI temaNe paribhramaNa karyuM che. temaNe khullI-nirmaLa-sUkSma dRSTie, AnaMda-vismaya-kutUhala-jJAnaprAptinA bhAvapUrvaka, vividha dezo-pradezonAM, ramaNIya romAMcaka ane bhayAnaka dazyo nihALyAM che, ane ane temanuM saMvedanA-kalpanA-vicArayukta, surekha ane rasaLatuM nirUpaNa, saraLa madhura pravAhI citrAtmaka zailImAM karyuM che. teo bhASA-sAhityanA adhyApaka che, vivecaka temaja sarjaka che, bhUgoLa- ItihAsanA abhyAsu che, ane sa2La-madhura-sukomaLa svabhAvanA umadA manuSya che. 'vAcakone kazuMka navuM jANavA mATe, vArtA jevo rasa paDe ane mAro potAno ja lAkSaNika anubhava hoya' evuM lakhavAno temano upakrama che. 'vAcakane rasa paDe ane vaividhya jaLavAI rahe' tevA lekhana aMge teo sabhAna che. ('nivedana', pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) tethI sahaja svAbhAvika rUpamAM teo joyelA pradezonI, ramya-karAlavilakSaNa-darzanIya prakRti ane saMskRtinuM, alapajhalapa chatAM vAstavika sAkSAtkAraka ane hRdayaMgama nirUpaNa anAyAse karI zakyA che. pravAsakathAnA temanA nirUpaNamAM lAghava, vyaMjanA, vaividhya anubhavAya 21

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che. prasaMgopAta temAM haLavo nirdoSa vinoda paNa hoya che; paraMtu kyAMya anAvazyaka lAge tevuM Alekhana ke AyAsajanya ciMtana kaLAtAM nathI; kazuM kRtaka ke kutsita jovA maLatuM nathI. prAkRtika dRzyo, vicitra ghaTanAo yA maLela vyaktionA nirUpaNamAM koIvAra niSkarSa rUpe lekhakIya TIkA- TippaNaciMtana rajU thayAM che. paraMtu te ciMtananA bhArathI ke TIkA-TippaNanI kaTutAthI sarvathA mukta rahyAM che. samagra nirUpaNamAM svasthatA, nikhAlasatA, madhuratA, haLavAza, svAbhAvikatAno sAdaMta anubhava thAya che. nirUpaNa pravAsa pachI amuka samayAMtare thayuM che. mahadaMze te saMsmaraNajanya che. temAM pravAsa daramiyAna jovA maLelAM sthaLa-kALa-ghaTanA-manuSya-kArya vagere vize lekhaka dvArA levAyelI noMdhono ane saMvedanA- kalpanA-ciMtanasikta saMsmaraNo ubhayano viniyoga thayo che tethI nirUpaNa prAmANika ane zraddheya temaja saMvedya ane AsvAdya banyuM che. citrAtmaka zailI ane nATyAtmaka nirUpaNa lalita nibaMdha ke TUMkI vArtA vAMcyAnI anubhUti karAve che. satya-ziva-suMdarano temAM sarasa suyoga sadhAyo che. bhAvakane te avabodha ane AsvAda yugapada Ape che. jagatanA badhA khaMDonA cuMvAlIsa jeTalA dezo-pradezonAM vividha darzanIya sthaLonAM temAM mUrti, surekha, prasaMgopAtta raMgIna zabdacitro AlekhAyAM che. eziyAnAM Araba amIrAta sthita abudhAbI, eziyA-yuropanA saMgamanuM dyotaka tUrkInuM kosTaeNTinopala, InDoneziyAno bhavya bauddhatUpa borobudura, hinduvastIpradhAna bAlI TApu, jApAnanA tAkAmasu ane risUrina pArka, madhya eziyAI deza ujhabekistAnanAM prAcIna nagara tAzkeda ane samarakaMda; yuropanAM ejiyana samudranA TApuo, grIsanuM purANuM nagara korintha, greTa briTananuM rahasyamaya sTonahenja, naoNrvenuM pATanagara oNslo, uttaradhruva vartuLamAM Avela baraphamaMDita naoNrthakaMpa, AIsalenDanI rudra-ramya prakRtizobhA, yukrenanI rAjadhAnI kieva, TolsToyanI janmabhUmi yAsnAyA poliyAnA; AphrikAnAM Ijipta ane nAIla nadI, saharAnuM raNa, sapheda ane bhUrI nAIla nadIonA saMgamasthAne vasela sudAnanuM pATanagara khATuMma, madhya AphrikAmAM sthita ane gujarAtanI yAda apAvatA nAnakaDA deza burunDInuM bujuskurA, jhimbAbleno vikToriyA dhodha; uttara amerikAnAM yu.esa.e.no Azcaryajanaka rASTriya udyAna yosemiTI, dhUtanagara lAsa vegAsa, yu.esa.e. ane keneDAnI sImA paranI mahAnadI senTa laoNrensa vacce Avela sahasa dvIpa; dakSiNa amerikAnAM panAmAM, peru dezanAM zailazikhara macu-pichu, brAjhilanAM nagara sAo pAulo ane sujhAno, ArjenTinA, oNsTreliyAnuM siDanI, nyUjhIlenDanuM roToruA, bhAratIya mULanA 22

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lokothI sabhara phijI TApu vagerenAM zabdacitro tenAM udAharaNa che. temAM izvaradatta sthAnika prakRtirUpo ane mAnavasarjita saMskRti beunAM manahara ane manabhara varNana thayAM che. AthamatA sUryanA prakAzamAM jhaLahaLatAM abudhAbInA kAcanA makAno (abudhAbInI sAMja), jAvA sthita virATa buddhasUpanuM adbhuta zilpa-sthApatya (borIbaMdara), saundaryamaMDita uttuMga madresAothI opatuM samarakaMda (samarakaMda), bhavya bhUrI masjida dharAvatuM tUrkInagara IstaMbUla (IstaMbula-kaoNsTenTinopala), jaLazikarothI "garjanA karato dhumADo" ane meghadhanuSyo sarjato jhAMbejhI nadIno pracaMDa dhodha (vikToriyA dhodha), uttara naoNrvenA sUryatApe ogaLatA himAcchAdita DuMgaronI jaladhArAo (hAmaraphesTa) vagerenAM surekha, raMgIna, jIvaMta, bhAvavAhI zabdacitra ApaNA cittamAM aMkita thaI jAya che. thoDAMka udAharaNa joIe : eka cheDe "ogoha goha'nAM lAla, lIlo ane vAdaLI ema gherA raMganAM traNa moTAM pUtaLAM hatAM. puruSoe sapheda aMgarakhuM, kesarI athavA sapheda saroMga' (kamare paheravAnuM luMgI jevuM vastro paheryA hatAM. mAthe sapheda paTTo bAMdhyo hato. badhA ughADe page hatA. teo eka bAju traNa hAramAM goThavAyA. bIjI bAju mahilAoe AchA pILA raMganuM uparanuM vastra, kesarI raMganuM saroMga paheryuM hatuM ane kamare raMgIna paTTo bAMdhyo hato." (bAlImAM besatuM varSa) samarakaMdamAM... kavionuM udyAna... A hariyALA ramaNIya udyAnamAM eka moTI laMbacorasa zilA upara ujhabekistAnanA cAra kavio sAmasAme beThA che, be palAMThI vALIne ane be vIrAsanamAM. teo vAjiMtra sAthe potAnI kavitA gAI rahyA che. mUchadADhIvALA prauDha kavioe sakhata ThaMDImAM paherAya evA jADA lAMbA DagalA paherelA che. mAthe pAghaDI ke moTI TopI che." (samarakaMda) 1. keliphorniyA ane nevADA rAjyamAM pahADa para UgatAM ane hajAro varSa TakI rahetAM sikoyA vRkSo, keTalAMka citrAtmaka varNano, temAM yojAyela vilakSaNa alaMkAra thakI, varNita vastu aMge vAstavikatA ane cAru kalpanAno, Adra vicAra ane lAgaNIno AlAdaka anubhava karAve che. temAMnI navInatA, tAjagI, mArmikatA bhAvakanA cittane sparzI jAya che; jema ke - ahIM AMbAnAM vRkSo para moTI moTI kerIo laTakI rahI che. ahIM ghaTAdAra lImaDA che ane vaDavAIono vistAra che. pIpaLo ahIM pavitra vRkSa tarIke pujAya che. kesarI ane pILAM gulamahora taDakAmAM hasI rahyAM che. 23

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sUryakiraNo jhIlIne tulasI praphullita banI che. kareNa ane caMpo phUla kherave che. tADa ane nAriyeLI UMcAI mATe spardhA karI rahyAM che. thora ane papaiyA zAkhA prasarAvI rahyA che. keLa para ke nAnI lUmo laTakI rahI che. bAramAsInAM phUla vAyu sAthe ramI rahyAM che. ahIM svaccha AkAzamAMthI relAto taDako ane dharatInI garama dhULa paNa jANe gujarAtano ja anubhava karAvatAM hatAM." (bujuburA) "samudramAM thoDe dUrathI joIe to sIdho, UMco, jADo ane bhUkharA raMgano khaDaka jANe airAvata hAthIe pANImAM paga mUkyo hoya evo lAge." (northakepa) TekApo (Tekapo)nAmanuM sarovara jovA maLyuM. AchA morapiccha jevo enA pANIno anokho raMga jiMdagImAM anyatra kyAMya jovA maLyo nathI. sUkAM medAno vacce A laMbavartuLa sarovara jANe dharatImAtAe opalamaDhela ghareNuM paheryuM hoya evuM lAgatuM hatuM." (milpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka) jUna mahino eTale himAcchAdita DuMgarAono kaparo kALa. sUryanArAyaNa emane raDAvIne ja jaMpe. zveta jaTAdhArI DuMgaro codhAra (be AMkhonA cAra khUNe) nahi paNa zatadhAra AMsu vahAve. AMsu sArI sArIne nisteja ane zuSka banelA DuMgaro kyAreka AkAzamAMthI, gauttama RSinA zApa pachI pazcAttApa anubhavatA sahasrAkSa Indrane vRSTinA devatAne, hajAra AMkhe thIjelAM AMsu (Snow) potAnA upara vahAvato joIne sahAnubhUtipUrvaka sAMtvana anubhave che." (hAmaraphesTa). lekhaka gaMbhIra prakRtinA paNa prasannamanA manuSya che. binajarUrI ane kRtaka gAMbhIryathI teo dUra ja rahe che. prasaMgopAtta, kaThoratA-kaTutAthI sarvathA mukta, nirdoSa vinoda paNa karI le che. potAne bhoge paNa teo hasI zake che. pravAsalekhomAMnAM keTalAMka udAharaNo jotAM A bAbata turata samajAya che : .. acAnaka pAchaLathI mArA khabhA upara paNa eka moTo vAMdaro caDI beTho. huM gabharAyo nahi, paNa AvI ghaTanA ociMtI bane eTale stabdha thaI javAya. have vAMdarAne nIce kevI rIte utAravo ? ... tyAM to mArI sAthe cAlatI chokarIe kahyuM, "sara, sara, beya hatheLI pahoLI khullI karI nAkho." beya hatheLI khullI karI nAkhI ke tarata vAMdaro ApoApa nIce UtarI gayo. beya hatheLI khullI batAvo to samajI jAya ke khAvAnuM khalAsa thaI gayuM che, eTale cAlyo jAya." (bAlImAM besatuM varSa) tArAbahene "kesarI sADI ane kesarI blAujha paheryA hatAM.. gaLAmAM 24

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mALA tathA kapALamAM kaMkuno lAla moTo cAMdalo hato. vaLI mArA khabhe lAla raMgano thelo hato. e parathI samajAyuM ke teo (sthAnika ArjenTinAvAsIo) amane ja koI "InDiyana svAmI' mAnatAM lAge che... teo mArAM patnIne InDiyana svAmI' samajIne bhAvapUrvaka vaMdana karatAM hatAM. ane AzIrvAda mATe potAnAM bALakone mAthe temano hAtha mukAvatAM hatAM ane gAle bacI karAvatAM hatAM. temaja strIone mAthe paNa hAtha pheravAvatAM hatAM ! (viSAda ane ullAsa) kaoNphI... maLatI hatI. eka kapanA baso rUpiyA. TADha uDADavA kaoNphI pIvI paDe ane kaoNphInA bhAva sAMbhaLI TADha vAya. eTale kaoNphI pIvAnuM ame mAMDI vALyuM." (TussothI AlTA) keTalAka DuMgaro para mAtra mastake ja barapha rahelo che. eka DuMgara upara dhoLA baraphano AkAra evo hato ke jANe eNe mAthe gAMdhITopI paherI na hoya ! manamAM thayuM ke "aho ! gAMdhIjInA saMniSTha svayaMsevako TheTha ahIM sudhI AvI pahoMcyA che ne !' ...ApaNA pUrA 73 divasa (rAtri-sahita) barAbara emano eka divasa. purANakathAomAM Ave che ke devonA eka divasa barAbara ApaNA amuka divaso. ahIM hAmaraphesTamAM ame devonA divasamAM hoIe evuM sAkSAt anubhavyuM." (hAmaraphesTa) paraMtu prasaMgopAtta vinoda karatA lekhaka harahaMmeza karuNAmaya, samabhAvazIla, prAmANika rahe che. potAne agavaDa yA takalIphamAM mUkanAra yA chetaranAra vyakti prati paNa teo sahiSNutA ane karuNA dAkhave che. moreziyasa TApunivAsI, bhAratIya mULanA, ni:saMtAna mevAsiMga temanA pALelA kUtarA rAmune putravat prema kare che. teo lekhaka samakSa rAmunI hoziyArI, samajadArI, kAmagIrI ane lokapriyatAnI umaLakAbhera vAto kare che, to temanI sthiti ane manovRttine samabhAvapUrvaka samajIne lekhaka kUtarAne mAnavInA mitra tarIke prazaMse che ane kahe che ke "rAmue kalAkamAM amArA saunAM dila jItI lIdhAM." mevAsiMganA atizaya premane joI, teo tenA tarapha na hasatAM hamadardI dAkhave che. (mevAsiMgano beTo) potAnA putrane moTA kArakhAnAno mAlika sAmAnya kAmadAronI sAthe rAkhI, kArakhAnAmAM temanA jevAM tamAma kAma karavAno ane kAmadAronI paristhiti samajavAno anubhava karAve che - e ghaTanA temanA manamAM mAlika prati Adara ane ahobhAva prere che. (pagarakhAM goThavanAra) saoNviyeTa saMghanA yukreIna rAjyanA pATanagara kielamAM maLela, tAnAzAhI nirmama taMtrathI trAsela, gAIDa vikTaranI tAnAzAhI viruddhanI sAvacetIyukta phariyAda teo 25

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sahAnubhUtipUrvaka sAMbhaLe che. tenI na kahevAya na sahevAya tevI pIDA temane AkhI rAta UMghavA detI nathI. (kievano gAIDa vikTara) raziyAnA mAunTa Akhuna para ekavAra caDI Avela lekhaka mitradharma khAtara, tyAM pharI vAra javuM nahotuM tema chatAM, bIjIvAra mitra khAtara parvatArohaNa kare che. (mAunTa Akhuna) nAIla nadImAM vihAra mATenI naukAmAM temane ane temanI sAthenA jUthane chevADe besavAnuM thatAM sau koI gusse thaI Ayojako sAthe laDavAnA mUDamAM AvI jAya che tyAre lekhaka emane TADhA pADatAM kahe che ke bIjA loko vahelA AvIne AgaLa besI gayA. emAM koIno vAMka nathI. have mananA bhAvo bagADIe to mahephilanI majA mANavA nahi maLe. mATe je sthiti che te zAMtithI svIkArI levI joIe." (nAIlamAM naukAvihAra) ArjenTinAnA pATanagara bonojha AIrisa (Buenos Aires)mAM haoNsTelanA risepzanisTa, TeksI DrAivara, eraporTanA oNphisaranA kharAba vartAvathI teo "manamAM jarA khinnatA' anubhave che, temanI sAthe thoDI dalIlo kare che, paNa koInI sAthe jhaghaDatA nathI, balka "bhUla amArIya hatI' ema vicAratAM "manathI prayatnapUrvaka ame samAdhAna karatAM hatAM ke AvuM to duniyAmAM badhe ja bane che; ApaNA dezamAM paNa videzIone (ane khuda ApaNane potAne paNa) kaDavA anubhavo kyAM ochA thAya che ? pachI thoDo sAro anubhava thatAM teo prasannatA anubhave che, temanA cittamAM paDelI khinnatA dUra thaI jAya che. (viSAda ane ullAsa) potAnI Arthika muzkelImAM limA zahera (peru)nI bhavya hoTelano menejara vinA cArje temane vI.AI.pI. rUma kADhI Ape che tyAre lekhaka temano sabhAva joI "gaLagaLA thaI jAya che. (vI.AI.pI.rUma) teo kyAreya koInA prati roSa ke dveSanI sakhata gAMTha bAMdhI detA nathI. arthAtu A badhA pravAsalekhomAM, lekhaka-lekhananA saMdarbhamAM, zIla tevI zailInuM sUtra pUrNata: caritArtha thayuM che. temAM lekhakanAM zAMta-svastha-udAra svabhAva, karuNAmaya nirmaLa dRSTi, anyanI lAgaNIno khayAla rAkhatI samasaMvedanA, koIne kazI aDacaNa ke takalIpharUpa na bane tevo samyapha vyavahAra, kaTutAkaThoratAmukta madhura-prAsAdika-citrAtmaka vANI ane nATyAtmaka nirUpaNano kalAtmaka viniyoga thayo che. temanI ItihAsa-bhUgoLa- lokasAhityanI jANakArI paNa saMbaMdhartA lekhomAM (abudhAbInI sAMja, IstaMbula-kaoNsTenTinopala, samarakaMda, tibilisI, bAlImAM besatuM varSa, korintha, macu piccha, kurAsAo vageremAM) prasaMgopAtta rucira rUpamAM DokAya che. viSNuprasAda trivedI, caMdravadana mahetA, cI.nA. paTela, anAmI jevA marmajJa vivecakoe tethI A pravAsalekho ane 26

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temanA lekhakane mokaLe mane prazaMsyA che. viSNuprasAda trivedI lekhakane 'sAcA pravAsI' ane pAsaporTanI pAMkhemAM saMgRhIta pravAsalekhomAM 'emanuM vaiziSTaya emanA jIvana-abhigamamAM, ruciviSayomAM tathA lakhANanI rItizailImAM vartAya che, evuM kahe che, ane te bhAvako mATe svIkArya banI rahe che. caMdravadana mahetAnI dRSTie pAsaporTanI pAMkhe 'eka judI bhAta pADanArI... lakhAvaTa' dharAvato 'anokho pravAsagrantha' che. 'ApaNI dRSTimaryAdA vikasAve evuM lakhANa che. ApaNe ja sAcA, bIjA khoTA- evA mamatvathI mukta karAve tevI mAhitI che... ahIM kyAMka ADakathAo che, zilpa, sAhitya, vicitra rItarivAja, saMsAramAM banatA na mAnavAmAM Ave evA rivAja, kyAMka koIne moDhe ke gAIDabUkomAM na jANavA maLe evI vigato... A noMdhapothI nathI, DAyarI paNa nathI, AtmakathA paNa nathI, kyAMka khabara na paDe evI bodhakathA paNa che, jJAnagoSThi paNa che, jIvanamImAMsA paNa che... taTastha, saumya, rasapracura vinodavATikAothI samRddha A anubhavakathA' che. (purovacana pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) cI. nA. paTelane pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe 'lalita nibaMdho'nA saMgraha samo pravAsagraMtha lAgyo che. lekhakane pravAsomAM je anubhavo thayelA te temaNe 'evA tAdaza punarjIvita karyA che ke... vAcakane thaze ke jANe pote e pravAsomAM DaoN. zAhanA sahapravAsI hatA...' pravAsakathAmAM 'aitihAsika mAhitI bhaugolika lAkSaNikatAonuM savigata varNana... pravAsanibaMdho mAhitIsabhara... viSayonuM vaividhya... sArI TUMkIvArtAmAM hoya evuM Azcaryatattva... nATyAtmaka paristhitinuM Alekhana... che. anAmInI dRSTie pAsaporTanI pAMkhe 'eka ramaNIya, cetoha2 pravAsagraMtha' ane tenA lekhaka 'gujarAtI pravAsasAhityanA prathama paMktinA lekhaka... svastha-prAjJa pravAsI' che. temAM 'mAnavasvabhAvanuM vaividhya ane vaicitrya Thera Thera jovA maLe che... kyAMka-kAruNya...kyAMka ramUja... Alekhana tAddaza, rocaka, prabhAvaka ane hRdayasparzI... bhASAmAM kyAMya kaze kaThe kaThe ke kaSTa Ape tevI kaThoratA ke kliSTatA nathI... pramoda pamADe tevI pravAhitA ne prAsAdikatA dakSa abhivyakti eka uttama vArtAkAranI sarjakatAno unmeSa dAkhavatI pravAsalekhakanI zaktinuM darzana thAya che.' (purovacana, pAsaporTanI pAMkhe : uttarAlekhana--bhA.2) ... vivecako ane vAcako dvArA ghaNA prazaMsita A pravAsalekho ane temanA lekhaka DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAhanuM gujarAtInA pravAsasAhityamAM viziSTa sthAna che. jagatanA vividha dezonI bahurUpI prakRti ane saMskRtinI vividha 27 ...

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bAjuonuM te alapajhalapa paNa sukha-suMdara-saMvedya- sAkSAtkAraka darzana supere karAve che. jagatamAM kSobhaprada ane dukhadAyaka ghaNuM che, to AnaMdadAyaka ane sukhaprada paNa ochuM nathI - e satyane te hRdya rUpamAM pragaTa kare che. mAnavI ane jagatanI vAstavikatA temAM cAru kalpanA, sukomaLa saMvedanA ane Adra ciMtanathI rasAIne, AkarSaka ane AsvAdya rUpamAM, AlekhAI che. saraLa, madhura, komaLa, IMdriyasaMvedya, pravAhI rasaLatI, vizada zailImAM, sahaja svAbhAvika lAge te rIte prastuta, vividha pradezo-sthaLo-ghaTanAo-manuSyo-kAryonuM nirUpaNa ApaNA mana ane hRdayane sparzI jAya che. ApaNI maryAdAo ane videzonI vizeSatAo aMge te ApaNane sabhAna kare che; AnaMda ane avabodha yugapada Ape che. lekhaka sAthe ApaNe pote jagatapravAsa karI rahyA hoIe - evo ApaNane te ahesAsa karAve che. lekhakano namra-vivekI-saMyamI huM" temAM sarvatra dekhAya che, paNa kaThe evuM "ahaM' kyAMya kaLAtuM nathI. koI premALa, lAgaNIzIla, samavayaska mitranI sAthe, aMtaraMga vAto karatAM, ApaNe AnaMda-ullAsapUrvaka jagatapravAsa mANI rahyA hoIe tevI ApaNane anubhUti thAya che. A pravAsakathA tethI vAcakone avazya gamI jaze. eka uttama pravAsakathAlekhaka tarIke DaoN. ramaNalAla zAhane te prasthApita kare che. zekhaDI jazavaMta zekhaDIvALA tA., po. peTalAda - 388450 tA. 7-3-2006 phAgaNa suda-8, vi.saM. 2062 ji. ANaMda 28

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pravAsa-darzana II) 15 On 19 43 pa0 prakAzakIya nivedana saurabha graMthonI sarjanayAtrA sahunA ramaNabhAI saMpAdakIya 1. khajurAho (bhArata) 2 pinAMga (malayeziyA) 3. kavAI nadInA kinAre (thAilaeNnDa) 4. borobudura (InDoneziyA) bAlImAM besatuM varSa (inDoneziyA) 6. pAgyAna-hAmano dhodha (philipAInsa) 7. tAkAmasu ane risUrina pArka (jApAna) 8. digaMbara snAna (jApAna) 9. pagarakhAM goThavanAra (jApAna) 10. abu dhAbInI sAMja (Araba amIrAta) 11. IstaMbula - konsenTinopala (turkastAna) 12. tAzkedamAM (ujhabekistAna) 13. samarakaMda (ujhabekistAna) 14. tibilisI (jyojiyA) 15. ejiyana samudranA TApuomAM (grIsa-bhUmadhya samudra) 16. korintha (grIsa) 17. anokhI bheTa (phrAnsa) 18. seMTa paulI (jarmanI) 19. sTonahenja (greTa briTana) 58 64 68 75 84 91 100 108 119 126 131 136 29.

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142 150 158 17 173 183 189 197 204 20. kievano gAiDa vikTara (yukreIna) 21. yAsnAyA poliyAnA (raziyA) 22. mAunTa Abuna (raziyA) 23. oNslonuM avanavuM (naoNrve) 24. naoNrtha kepa (norve) 25. vAikiMganA vArasadAro (AisalenDa) 29. nAIlamAM naukAvihAra (Ijipta) 27. saharAnA raNamAM (Ijipta) 28. khAma (sudAna) 29. bujuburA (buruMDI) 30. vikToriyA dhodha (jhimbAble) 31. mevAsiMgano beTo (moreziyasa) 32. yosemiTI (yu. esa. e.) 33. sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa (yu. esa. e.) 34. pherabaeNksanAM nensI homabarga (alAskA - yu. esa. e.) 35. sahastra dvIpanA pradezamAM (yu.esa.e.-keneDA) 36. panAmA (da. amerikA) 37. baoNgoTAno anubhava (kolambiyA-da.a.) 38. vI.AI.pI. rUma (peru-da.a.). 39. macya-piccha (peru - da. amerikA) 40. sAo pAulo ane sujhAno (brAjhila) 41. viSAda ane ullAsa (ArjenTinA - da. amerikA) 42. kurAsAo (dharlaeNnDa enTAIlIjha - da. amerikA) 43. siDanInI pheravela-pArTI (oNsTreliyA) 44. roTocuA (nyUjhIlenDa) 45. malpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka (nyUjhIlenDa) 46. navA varSanI bheTa (phijI) 47. ullU (phijI). 212 219 226 234 244 254 261 272 282 288 293 302 310 315 323 330 u40 347 355 30

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khajurAho (bhArata) khajurAhono pravAsa karavAnI taka to ghaNI vAra sAMpaDI che paraMtu pahelI vAra je vilakSaNa anubhava thayo hato te adyApi avismRta che. zRMgArarasika zilpAkRtione kAraNe vIsamI sadImAM AMtararASTriya prasiddhi pAmavAthI khajurAho dezavidezanA aneka paryaTakonI yAdImAM umerAtuM rahyuM che. vastutaH khajurAhonAM maMdironAM samagra zilpa sthApatyamAM ratizilpanuM pramANa to dasa TakA jeTaluM paNa nathI, paNa niSiddha vastu vadhu dhyAna kheMce e nyAye khajurAhonI AvI khyAti comera vistarI che. eTale mAtra kautuka khAtara ja nahi, gahana abhyAsa mATe paNa aneka vidagdha vyaktio tyAM AvavA lAgI che ane bhAratanA A aitihAsika sthaLa vize samartha, sacitra sAhitya prakAzita thatuM rahyuM che. pahelI vAra khajurAho javAno amAro kAryakrama aNadhAryo goThavAI gayo hato. dara varase kArataka mahinAmAM madhya pradezanA tIrthadhAma citrakUTamAM sadguru sevA TrasTa taraphathI vizALa pAye netrayajJanuM Ayojana thAya che, jeno lAbha hajAro garIba dardIone maLe che. A netrayajJamAM sevA ApavAno avasara amane keTalAka mitrone sAMpaDyo hato. kArtikI pUrNimA pachI amAro sevAkALa pUro thato hato ane muMbaI pAchA pharIe te pahelAM vacce eka divasa maLato hato. AsapAsanAM jovA jevAM sthaLono ame vicAra karatAM hatAM tyAM koIke kahyuM ke eka divasamAM khajurAho paNa jaI AvI zakAya. khajurAho # 1

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amArI maMDaLImAMthI koIe khajurAho joyuM nahotuM eTale enI mulAkAtanI darakhAsta tarata svIkArAI gaI. Ama to khajurAho jovA mATe eka divasa ocho gaNAya to paNa Avo avasara javA na devo evo badhAno mata paDyo. e mATe zI vyavasthA thaI zake te aMge TrasTanA kAryAlayamAM maeNneja2ne maLyA to jANavA maLyuM ke nava jaNa mATe to jIpa ja bhADe karavI sArI paDe. vahelI savAre nIkaLIe to jovA-pharavA mATe vadhu samaya maLe. sAMje veLAsara pAchA pharavAnuM salAhabharyuM che. jIpa kilomITaranA bhAve Ave che. ahIM jIpa tamane jUnI maLaze paNa bhAva badhAnA ekasarakhA, vAjabI hovAthI kazI chetarAmaNI nathI thatI. bhADAnI 2kama DrAivarane sIdhI ApI zakAya athavA AvyA pachI kAryAlayamAM jamA karAvI zakAya. badhI mAhitI meLavyA pachI ame maeNneja2ne ja jIpanI vyavasthA karI ApavA kahyuM. tapAsa karAvIne emaNe kahyuM ke savAre barAbara sADA pAMca vAge kAryAlaya pAse amArA mATe jIpa AvIne UbhI raheze. bIje divase savAre ame badhAM samayasara amArA khAvApIvAnA sAmAna sAthe kAryAlaya pAse pahoMcI gayAM. vAtAvaraNamAM ThaMDI hatI eTale garama kapaDAM paNa paheravA paDyAM hatAM. ame kAryAlaya pAse pahoMcyAM tyAre tyAM eka jIpa UbhI hatI paNa e amAre mATe nahi hoya ema, enI dayA Ave evI jarjarita hAlata joIne lAgyuM. emAM koI DrAivara paNa nahoto. ame rAha jotAM thoDe Aghe rAkhelA bAMkaDAo upara beThAM. haju paroDhanuM ajavALuM thayuM nahotuM. battIo hatI paNa enA ajavALAmAM karakasara hatI. ziyALAnI ThaMDaka adaba vALavA pharaja pADatI hatI. thoDI vAre paMdarasoLa varSano lAgato zyAma varNano eka baTo chokaro amArI pAse Avyo. eNe pUchyuM. 'sA'ba, Apa khajurAho javAnAM cho ?' 'hA; tane koNe kahyuM ?' 'Apa badhAM savArI jevAM lAgo cho eTale. Apa jIpamAM javAnAM chone ?' 'hA, ame amArI jIpanI rAha joIe chIe.' 'jIpa to A AvI gaI che, sA'ba. A jIpamAM ja javAnuM che. besavA mAMDo.' 'AvI bhaMgAra jIpamAM ? ane enA DrAivara kyAM che ?' 'huM ja DrAivara chuM, sA'ba.' 2 * pravAsa-darzana

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tuM DrAivara che ?' ame traNa cAra jaNa ekasAthe bolI UThyAM. DrAivara nahi paNa enA helpara ke klInara jevA lAgatA chokarAnI vAtamAM amane bharoso na beTho. koI ajANyAnI sAthe phasAI na jaIe eTale ame vadhu vAta karavAnuM TALyuM. ame UbhA na thayAM eTale amArA avizvAsanI gaMdha e pArakhI gayo. koIkanA gharAka laI bIjo ja koI jIpavALo cAlyo jAya evI ghaTanA kyAM nathI banatI ? eTale rAha jovAmAM ja DahApaNa che ema amane lAgyuM. chokaro potAnI jIpa pAse jaIne Ubho rahyo. ame vAte vaLagyAM. jIpanI rAha jotAM jotAM to poNo kalAka thaI gayo. bIjI koI jIpa AvI nahi. amArI adhIrAI vadhI. kAryAlaya baMdha hatuM. ame mAMhomAMhe vicAra karyo ke dhAro ke bIjI koI jIpa have na ja Ave to zuM karavuM ? khajurAho javA mATe to Ajano ja divasa che. samaya kapAto jAya che. kAM to A jIpamAM besIe ane kAM to pAchAM jaIe. "jIpa bhale bhaMgAra dekhAya, ApaNe kyAM koIne batAvavuM che ?" eke kahyuM. paNa e kharekhara DrAivara che ke hAMke che ?' bIjAe kahyuM. enI sAthe vAta to karI joIe', trIjAe sUcavyuM. meM bUma mArI, "eya chokarA, zuM nAma tAruM ?' 'rAmazaraNa, sAba', kahetokane pAse Avyo. keTalAM varasa thayAM tane ?' ekavIsa.. paNa huM baTako chuM eTale koI mAnatuM nathI." keTalA vakhatathI DrAiviMga kare che ? lAisansa che tArI pAse ?' jI, sA'ba, cha mahinAthI.' eNe jIpamAMthI lAvIne potAnuM lAisansa batAvyuM. te sAcuM hatuM. AvI kharAba hAlatamAM gADI kema che ?' ' ahIM citrakUTamAM jIpa to AvI ja maLe. navI gADI amane garIbane kyAMthI posAya ? satanA jabalapuramAM evI maLe. A jIpa amAre mATe ja che enI khAtarI zI ?" maeNnejara sAhebe mane ja varadI ApI che. bIjAne ApI hota to bIjI jIpa Avata." jo, ame tArI jIpamAM besIe paNa paisA maeNnejarane ApIzuM. ane tAruM DrAiviMga barAbara nahi lAge to UtarI jaIzuM. che kabUla tane ?' khajurAho jha9 3

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'jI, sA'ba.' ame javAno nirNaya karyo. badhAM mitroe mane kahyuM, 'ramaNabhAI, tame AgaLa DrAIvaranI bAjunI sITamAM beso. tame DrAiviMga jANo cho eTale enA DrAiviMganI tamane khabara paDaze.' amArI maMDaLImAM badhAM judA judA nAme oLakhAtAM. emAM lAIsansa klabanA lAyanabhAIe kahyuM, 'dekha rAmazaraNa, tAruM DrAiviMga barAbara nahi hoya to amArA A sAheba tane uThADIne khajurAho sudhI gADI pote calAvI leze.' rAmazaraNa hasI paDyo. ame jIpamAM goThavAvA lAgyAM. huM AgaLa beTho. pAchaLa sAmasAme rAkhelI be pATalImAM cAra jaNa dabAIne besI zake ema hatAM. vacce vadhArAnuM TAyara hatuM. rAmazaraNe lAkaDAnuM eka khokhuM mUkI badhAMne caDAvavAmAM madada karI. 'tame sArAM kapaDAM paherIne kema AvyAM ?' evI phariyAda jANe jIpa karatI hatI. enA patarAMnA aNIdAra khUNA vastramAM bharAvA mATe utsAhI hatA. caDhatAM-UtaratAM vastrasaMkocananI kalAno Azraya na lenArane pastAvuM paDe ema hatuM. rAmazaraNe potAnI sITa lIdhI. te garIba hato paNa dekhAve sughaDa hato. e vahelI savAre paNa snAna karIne Avyo hato, e enA mAthAnA bhInA caLakatA kALA vALa parathI dekhAtuM hatuM. eNe kapALamAM karelo kaMkuno moTo cAMllo enI dharmazraddhAne pragaTa karato hato. enI vANImAM garIbInI naramAza hatI. eNe pahereluM lAla raMganuM sveTara dUrathI ene zodhI kADhavAmAM madadarUpa thAya evuM hatuM. eNe dhUpasaLI saLagAvI ane sAme rAkhelI, rAma, sItA, lakSmaNa ane hanumAnanI chabI AgaLa phe2vIne eka kANAmAM bharAvI. jIpamAM sugaMdha prasarI rahI. be hAtha joDI eNe prArthanA karI. ame paNa amAro navakA2maMtra bolI prArthanA karI lIdhI. Aje to enI khAsa jarUra hatI. rAmazaraNa bolyo, 'cAlIzuM sA'ba ?' 'hA, paNa pahelAM keTalA kilomITa2 che te noMdhI laIe', ema kahIne meM mArA khissAmAMthI DAyarI ane pena kADhyAM. 'kilomITa2 noMdhavAnI kaMI jarU2 nathI, sAheba. khajurAhonuM aMtara jANItuM che.' 'hA, to paNa noMdhI levuM sAruM. amane aMdAja to Ave.' 'paNa mITara bagaDI gayuM che.' 'bagaDI gayuM che ? evuM te kema cAle ? tAre ane amAre kaMI vAMdho paDyo to ?' 4 * pravAsa-darzana

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nahi paDe, sA'ba. gAmanI bahAra nIkaLatAM ja huM tamane mAIlasTona batAvI daIza. Apa ophisamAM pUchIne paisA Apajo. e lokone A rojanuM kAma che." rAmazaraNe sTIyariMga nIce laTakatA be vAyara be hAthamAM laIne aDADyA ane gADIe "DrAuM DrAuM karyuM. "are, AvI rIte gADI sTArTa kare che ? cAvI nathI ? "cAvI bagaDI gaI che, sAba.' "to to koI paNa mANasa AvI rIte calAvIne tArI gADI upADI jaI zake." hA, paNa ene calAvatAM phAve nahi. thoDe jaIne choDI devI paDe evI A gADI che." gADI gAmabahAra nIkaLatAM rAmazaraNe satanAno mAIlasTona batAvyo. amAre satanA thaIne khajurAho javAnuM hatuM. vaLI, mAruM dhyAna jatAM meM kahyuM, "bhAI rAmazaraNa, tAruM spIDomITara paNa cAlatuM nathI. kyAranuM jhIro upara ja che.' e paNa bagaDeluM che. paNa ApaNane enI jarUra nathI. huM gADI vadhAre bhagAvato nathI. ahIM amArA ema. pI. (madhyapradeza)mAM rastA eTalA kharAba ane khADAvALA che ke koI icche to paNa cAlIsa-pistAlIsanI upara bhagAvI na zake." citrakUTathI satanAne raste kazo TrAphika nahoto. jIpa potAnI gatie cAlavA lAgI. rAmazaraNanuM DrAiviMga vyavasthita hatuM. eka bahene bhajananI kaeNseTa vagADavA mane pahelethI ApI rAkhI hatI te pAchI ApatAM meM kahyuM, lo tamArI keseTa pAchI. bhajana sAMbhaLavAM hoya to have jAte ja gAvA paDaze." gADI barAbara layamAM cAlatAM vahelAM UThelAM keTalAMka mitronAM mastaka savAranI zItaLatAmAM samatulA gumAvavA lAgyAM hatAM. DrAivaranA hAthapaga uparAMta enuM moDhuM paNa cAlatuM (khAtuM ke vAto karatuM) rahe to enAM nayanone . ALasa na Ave e mATe meM ene cokaleTa ApI ane vAte vaLagADyo. vAtacItamAM jANavA maLyuM ke e citrakUTamAM ja rahe che. pitA gujarI gayA che. mA lokonuM gharakAma karIne gujarAna calAve che. traNa bhAIbahenamAM pote sauthI moTo che. khAsa kaMI bhaNyo nathI. enA eka vaDIla paDozI moTara mikenika che. ene tyAM pAMceka varSa kAma karIne pote gADI ripera khajurAho kapa

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karavAno sAro anubhava lIdho che. DrAiviMga to bagaDelI ane ripera karelI gADIonI TrAyala letAM letAM ja zIkhI javAyuM che. pachI lAisansa maLatAM bhADe jIpa pheravavAnuM mana thayuM. e paDozI mikenike ja vyAje paisA apAvyA ane potAne tyAM ripera thavA AvelI A khakhaDI gayelI jUnI jIpa vecAtI laI ApI. cha mahinAthI bhADe pheravavAnuM cAlu karyuM che. lAMbI varadI na hoya to pote AjubAjunAM gAmaDAMnI herApherA kare che. je maLe temAMthI lonanA haptA bhare che. potAnI zAdI thaI gaI che paNa vahu haju nAnI che eTale ghare rahevA AvI nathI. rAmazaraNe potAnI gAmaThI hiMdI bolImAM karelI nikhAlasa vAtomAM bhAratanAM asaMkhya garIba kuTuMbonI karamakahANIno paDagho saMbhaLAto hato. have satanA najIka AvI rahyuM hatuM. sAmethI haju eka paNa moTaragADI AvI nahotI. koI koI grAmINa mANaso rastAmAM barAbara vacce cAlatA hatA. horna vagADavA mATe meM rAmazaraNane kahyuM to e bolyo, "haoNrnanI jarUra nathI. jIpanA khakhaDATa avAjathI ja mANaso AghA khasI jAya che." e sAMbhaLIne amArAmAMnA eke kaTAkSamAM kahyuM, "alyA, paradezamAM to anivArya hoya to ja haoNrna vagADAya che, paNa tuM to emanA karatAMya AgaLa vadhI gayo. jarUra hoya to paNa tuM haoNrna nathI vagADato.' rAmazaraNe mAtra smita karyuM, paNa AgaLa jatAM eka vaLAMka pAse gADI ekadama potAnI najIka AvI jatAM mANasone bhAgavuM paDyuM tyAre ame ciDAyAM : "horna vagADatAM tane takalIpha zI paDe che ?' chevaTe eNe mauna toDyuM, 'horna cAlatuM nathI.' "huM ? horna nathI cAlatuM ? to pachI gADI kevI rIte calAvAya ? koI vAra akasmAta thaI jAya." ame cittA ane kheda anubhavyAM. rAmazaraNa lAcArIthI zAMta rahyo. ame satanA vaTAvI khajurAhonA raste AgaLa vadhyAM. DuMgarALa pradezamAM rasto UMce caDato jato hato. citrakUTathI nIkaLyAMne amane vAra thaI hatI. eTale sAthe lIdhelAM cA-pANIno vakhata thayo hato. eka sArI jagyA jaNAtAM eka bAju gADI UbhI rAkhavA rAmazaraNane meM kahyuM. eNe eka jhaTakA sAthe gADI UbhI rAkhI. acAnaka AMcako AvatAM badhAM barADI UThyAM. huM kAraNa samajI gayo hato. rAmazaraNe mane kahyuM, "tame acAnaka UbhI rAkhavAnuM kahyuM eTale giyara badalIne gADI UbhI rAkhI. breka jarA DhIlI che, pampiMga karavuM (be-traNa vakhata breka dabAvavI) paDe che." 6 9 pravAsa-darzana

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huM ?' badhAM coMkI UThyAM, "AvI gADI tArAthI calAvAya ja kema ? tuM to amArA jAna jokhamamAM mUkI deze." mAsIbAe kahyuM, "pahelethI khabara hota to tArI gADImAM besata nahi. paisA pUrA levA ane gADImAM kaMI ThekANuM nahi." rAmazaraNe kahyuM, "mAtAjI ! gabharAva nahi. amane mikenika lokone game tevI kharAba gADI calAvatAM phAve." mArA abhiprAya pramANe to rAmazaraNa hiMmatathI, pUrA vizvAsathI, sAvacetIpUrvaka gADI calAvato hato, paNa amArAM mitronA zvAsa adhdhara thaI jatA hatA. - ame cA-pANI lIdhAM ane rAmazaraNane paNa ApyAM. amArAmAM gusapusa vAta cAlI. eke kahyuM, "ApaNe bhADuM pUrepUruM na ApavuM. maeNnejare ApaNane vAta kahevI joIe.' bIjAe kahyuM, "bhADuM bhale pUruM ApIe, paNa bakSisane lAyaka to e nathI ja." moTAbhAIe kahyuM, "khajurAhothI maLatI hoya to bIjI jIpa karI laIe. bhale Ano pUro cArja Apavo paDe." khajurAhothI bIjI jIpa na maLI to ? ApaNe atyAre AnI sAthe jhaghaDo karavo nahi." bhAbhI bolyAM. ame jIpamAM beThAM ane khajurAhonA raste AgaLa cAlyAM. koIke kahyuM, "bhAI rAmazaraNa, atyAre to ame tAre zaraNe chIe." mAsIbAe kahyuM, "sAcavIne calAvaje beTA, amAre upara javAnI utAvaLa nathI." - ame khajurAho pahoMcyAM. UMcAIe AvelA A vizALa medAnI vistAranI havA ja judI hatI. AThaso-hajAra varSa pahelAMnuM saMskArasamRddha aitihAsika vAtAvaraNa ahIM dhabakatuM hatuM. jIpa kyAM UbhI haze, amAre kyAM maLavuM vagere vIgato rAmazaraNa sAthe nakkI karI, ame eka bhomiyo laIne maMdiro jovA cAlyAM. khajurAhomAM pravezadvAra AgaLanA mukhya mArganI DAbI bAjunA, pazcima dizAnA vizALa saMkulamAM jovAlAyaka mukhya mukhya maMdiro che. jamaNI bAju pUrva dizAmAM jarAka Aghe thoDAMka maMdiro che, jemAM jaina maMdiro mukhya che. amAro bhomiyo hoziyAra ane jANakAra hato. amArI samayamaryAdA eNe samajI lIdhI hatI. eNe kahyuM ke, "I. sa. 900thI I.sa. 1150 khajurAho - 7

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sudhInA, Azare aDhIso varSanA gALAmAM khajurAho caMdelA vaMzanA caMdravarmana, harSavarmana, yazovarmana, dhanyadevavarmana, vidyAdharavarmana, kIrtivarmana vagere rAjAonuM pATanagara hatuM. samRddhino e kALa hato. tyAre ahIM 85 jeTalAM maMdiro baMdhAyAM hatAM. temAMthI hAla bAvIsa jeTalAM maMdiro rahyAM che. dhArmika sahiSNutAno e yuga haze kAraNa ke ahIM viSNumaMdiro, zivamaMdiro, sUryamaMdira, cosaTha yoginIonuM maMdira ane hanumAnajInuM maMdira che. ahIM jaina maMdiro che ane eka khakharA maThamAM bhagavAna buddhanI pratimA paNa hatI, je have purAtattva saMgrahAlayamAM che.' khajurAho zabda "khajuravAhaka' parathI Avyo che. A maMdironA zilAlekhomAM "khajurAvAhaka" zabdano nirdeza che. kavi caMda baradAIkRta pRthvIrAja rAso'mAM 'khajurapurA" athavA "khajanipura" nAmano ullekha che. e jamAnAmAM ahIM khajUrInAM vRkSa bahu thatAM hatAM. tyAre samRddhi eTalI badhI hatI ke pATanagaranA mukhya pravezadvAranA baMne staMbhonI AkRti sone maDhelAM khajUrInAM vRkSonI hatI. pahelAM ame pazcima bAjumAM, mataMgezvara, lakSmaNa, pArvatI, vizvanAtha, kaMdAriyA mahAdeva vagere maMdiro joyAM. keTalAMka jhaDapathI joyAM to keTalAMka vigate. A maMdironI sthApatyakalA, kalAvidonA matAnusAra uttara bhAratanI nAgarazailInA utkRSTa namUnArUpa gaNAya che. keTalAMkamAM aMdara ardhamaMDapa, mahAmaMDapa, aMtarAla, garbhagRha ane pradakSiNApatha evA pAMca vibhAga che. keTalAMka maMdironAM zikharo khAssAM UMcA che. A maMdiromAM "lakSmaNa maMdira vastutaH bhagavAna viSNunuM maMdira che. rAjA yazovarmane e baMdhAveluM che. rAjAnuM bIjuM nAma lakSmaNavarmana hatuM eTale "lakSmaNa maMdira' nAma paDI gayuM. khajurAhonAM maMdiromAM A maMdira uttuMga, vizALa, suvyavasthita ane paurANika prasaMgonI zilpAkRtiothI sabhara che. khajurAho janAre A maMdira avazya jovA jevuM che. ema manAya che ke A maMdira baMdhAvavA mATe rAjAe mathurAthI soLa hajAra zilpIone bolAvyA hatA ane maMdira bAMdhatAM sAta varSa lAgyAM hatAM. - lakSmaNa maMdira, vizvanAtha maMdira vagerenA bahAranA bhAgamAM jovA maLatI mithuna- zilpAkRtio paryaTakonuM dhyAna kheMce evI che. madhyayugamAM samagra bhAratamAM maMdiromAM kAmazilpanI jANe ke eka praNAlikA thaI gaI hatI. gujarAta-rAjasthAnathI orissAmAM koNArka sudhI ane nepAlathI dakSiNamAM madurA sudhI AvI kAmabhoganI zilpAkRtio jovA maLe che. 8 a pravAsa-darzana

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dharmasthAnakomAM AvI zRMgAraceSTAo laukika dRSTithI, taTastha kalAdRSTithI, rahasyasabhara. yogadRSTithI ema vibhinna rIte nihALAya che. emAM prajAjIvananuM naitika adhaHpatana pratibiMbita thayuM che ke e AdhyAtmika unnatinI nizAnI che e vize mImAMsakomAM matabheda rahevAnA. vIjaLI na paDe, koInI najara na lAge, asurothI surakSita rahe, vidharmIo khaMDita na kare, paraMparA toDatAM zilpIo Dare ityAdi kAraNo uparAMta taMtravidyAnI rekhAkRtione ane rahasyone zRMgAraceSTAomAM gupta rIte gUMthI levAmAM AvI che ke je phakta enA adhikArI ja samajI zake, evAM kAraNa paNa apAya che. khajurAho taMtravidyAnuM ane sAdhanAnuM moTuM kendra haze ema ahIM AvelA cosaTha yoginInA maMdira u52thI manAya che. pazcima bAjunAM maMdiro joI ame pUrva bAjunAM keTalAMka maMdiro joyAM. emAM AdinAtha, zAMtinAtha ane pArzvanAtha e traNa jaina maMdiro mukhya che. jaina maMdiromAM nagna zilpAkRtio ekaMdare nathI. pArzvanAtha maMdiramAM tarata najare na paDe evI eka apavAdarUpa nAnI kRti che. zAMtinAtha bhagavAnanA maMdiramAM pUjApAThanI paraMparA cAlu che eTale ame tyAM darzanacaityavaMdanAdi karyAM. maMdiro jovAno amAro kAryakrama pUro thayo. eka divasa ocho paDe to paNa mukhya maMdirono sAmAnya paricaya maLI gayo. have paga thAkyA hatA ane bhUkha paNa lAgI hatI. niyata karelA resTorAMmAM ame pahoMcyAM. sAthe lIdhelA alpAhArano paNa upayoga karyo. bIjI jIpa ka2vAnI zakyatA jaNAI nahi. amArAM gapATAM cAlatAM hatAM tyAM rAmazaraNa Avyo. eNe bhojana-ArAma karI lIdhAM hatAM. eNe kahyuM, 'sAheba, jarA utAvaLa rAkhajo, kAraNa ke have rastAmAM ja rAta paDI jaze. cAMdanI rAta che eTale vAMdho nathI paNa jaMgala ane pahADIonA AdivAsI pradezamAMthI ApaNe pasAra thavAnuM che. rAtre koI vAra lUMTanA banAva paNa bane che.' rAmazaraNa gayo. amArI vinodabharI vAto cAlatI hatI tyAM lUMTAvAnI vAta AvatAM ame sAvadha thaI gayAM. thelA, pAkITa khabhe bharAvavA lAgyAM. moTA bhAIe kahyuM, 'koI lUMTavA Ave to sauthI pahelI najara mArA A moMghAmUlA ghaDiyALa upara ja paDe. vaLI, eno paTTo sAva sonAno che. huM to atyArathI ja kADhIne khissAmAM mUkI dauM chuM.' ekanI AvI vAtano cepa bIjAne lAge ja. eTale badhAMe potAnAM ghareNAM salAmata sthAne saMtADI dIdhAM, e joIne mAsIbA bolyAM, 'tame tamArAM ghareNAM saMtADI dIdhAM eTale lUMTanAranI najara to mArA para ja khajurAho * 9

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paDe ne ? mArI eka eka kereTanA siMgala hirAnI kAnanI buTTI tarata najare paDe evI nathI, paNa lUMTanArano bharoMso zo ?' hA, have to muA kAnanI bUTa ja kApI le che. bIjI bahene kahyuM. pahelethI khabara hota to paherata ja nahi.' ema kahI mAsIbAe buTTIno peca kholavA mAMDyo. ahIM rastAmAM zuM kAma kADho cho ? jIpamAM besIne zAMtithI kADhajone. koI vAra hAthamAMthI sarakI paDe.' tyAM to hAtha joI Amatema phAMphAM mAratAM mAsIbA bolyAM, "lo, tame kahyuM evuM ja thayuM. buTTI hAthamAMthI sarakI paDI lAge che. mAsIbA gaMbhIra banI gayAM. amArA paga aTakI gayA. sau vAMkA vaLI buTTI zodhavA lAgI gayAM. paNa pariNAma zUnya. mAsIbAnuM moTuM gamagIna banI gayuM. "Ajano divasa ja evo Ugyo che.' ema kahI bIjI bahene AzvAsana ApyuM. ThIka ThIka vAra lAgI eTale rAmazaraNa AvI pahoMcyo. vAta thatAM te paNa zodhamAM joDAyo, paNa kazuM vaLyuM nahi. moDuM thatuM jatuM hatuM paNa bIjAthI kema bolAya ? vAta gaMbhIra hatI. mAsIbA kaMI kahe enI ja rAha jovAvA lAgI. chevaTe e bolyAM, "cAlo, tyAre, have nahi maLe. bhagavAnane gamyuM te kharuM." sau jIpa pAse pahoMcyAM. badhAM goThavAyAM eTale jIpa citrakUTanA raste cAlI. pazcimamAM sUryAsta thaI jatAM sonerI ajavALuM pUruM thayuM ane pUrvamAM caMdrodaya thatAM rUperI ajavALuM prasaravA lAgyuM. prAkRtika vAtAvaraNa kavitA prere evuM hatuM paNa buTTInI ghaTanA ane have rAtano Dara - ethI amArAM mana Ucaka hatAM. Akhe raste koI gADInI avarajavara nahotI. baMne bAju thoDe thoDe samaye nAnAM nAnAM AdivAsI-gAmomAM sAMjanI rasoI mATenAM saLagatAM lAkaDAMnA dhumADA UMce UDI rahyA hatA. ajavALuM AchuM hatuM eTale jIpanI lAiTa cAlu karavA meM rAmazaraNane kahyuM, paNa eNe javAba Apyo, "sA'ba lAiTa cAlatI nathI. mane cokhkhuM dekhAya che. vaLI, lAiTa cAlatI hoya topaNa na karavI sArI. lAiTa hoya to A lokone dUrathI khabara paDe ke koIka gADI Ave che.' paNa aMdhAruM Ave tyAM zuM karavuM ? lAiTa to hovI joIe ne ?' eTale huM boluM tyAM to kharekhara aMdhAruM AvyuM. caMdra DuMgaranI pAchaLa DhaMkAI gayo hato. rAmazaraNe potAnI pAse rAkhelI TaoNrca jamaNA hAthamAM laI, 10 9 pravAsa-darzana

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hAtha bahAra kADhI rastA para lAiTa mArI. kahe, "amAre A rojano rasto che. badhA vaLAMkanI khabara hoya.' vacce eNe TUMko rasto lIdho. UtarANavALo rasto hato. peTrola bace ane jhaDapa vadhatAM samaya paNa bace. citrakUTanA pAdaramAM AvatAM rastA paranI battIo joIne ame tanAvamukti anubhavI. hemakhema pAchA pharyA. have jIpanI lAiTano nahi, haoNrnano prazna hato, kAraNa ke rastA upara lokonI avarajavara ghaNI hatI. paraMtu e mATe rAmazaraNa pAse eno potAno upAya hato. pAse rAkhelo eka daMDo hAthamAM laI bahAra jIpanA bAraNA upara jorathI te ThapakArato jAya ane jarUra paDe to DokuM bahAra kADhIne rADa pADato jAya. aMte ame mukAma para pahoMcI gayAM. lAkaDAnuM khokhuM mUkI rAmazaraNe badhAMne utAryA. jIpanA bhADAnI rakama bIje divase kAryAlayamAM cUkavavAnI sUcanA ApI, bhaMgAra jIpanA vasamAM pravAsa mATe kSamA mAgI, buTTI mATe dilasojI darzAvI, badhAMne laLIlaLIne caraNavaMdana karI rAmazaraNe vidAya lIdhI. eka jokhamI pravAsa pUro thayo paNa mArA manamAM anuciMtana cAlyuM ke amAruM jokhama to eka divasa pUratuM hatuM, paraMtu potAnuM astitva TakAvI rAkhavA mATe gAmaDAMnA garIba mANasone roja kevuM jokhamI jIvana jIvavuM paDe che ! AkhA divasanA anubhavo vAgoLatAM ame nidrAdhIna thayAM. bIje divase savAre cA-pANI, snAnAdithI paravArIne nava vAge kAryAlaya khUle eTale hisAba mATe ame nIkaLyAM. badhAMne AvavAnI jarUra nahotI topaNa badhAnA mata pUchI lIdhA. keTalIka vAra ghaTanA bane tyAre pratyAghAto jeTalA ugra hoya che teTalA pachI nathI rahetA. jIpa mATe phariyAda karavI ke na karavI, bhADuM ochuM karAvavuM ke na karAvavuM, DrAivarane bakSisa ApavI ke na ApavI ane ApavI to keTalI ApavI vagere vize amArA abhinivezo maMda paDyA hatA. meM to rAmazaraNanA bahAdurIbharyA DrAIviMganI prazaMsA ja karI. ame kAryAlayamAM dAkhala thayAM ke maeNnejare kahyuM, "Avo, beso. tamArI rAha joIne rAmazaraNa hamaNAM ja gayo. acAnaka eka varadI ene maLI gaI. e tamArA mATe kazuMka Apato gayo che.' ema kahI emaNe TebalanA khAnAmAMthI chApAnA kAgaLanA TukaDAnuM vALeluM nAnuM paDIkuM ApyuM. "zuM che ? koI prasAda che ?' khajurAho jha: 11

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hA, prasAda ja kahevAya." paDIkuM kholatAM ja e joIne mAsIbA bolI UThyAM, "are, A to mArI buTTI. hAza... bhagavAna. paNa e rAmazaraNane kevI rIte maLI ? "savAre ahIM AvI e jIpa sApha karato hato tyAM ene maLI." paNa jIpamAM kevI rIte hoya ?" mAsIbAne Azcarya thayuM. bIjI bahene kahyuM, "mane lAge che, mAsIbA, ke buTTI tamArA hAthamAMthI sarakIne sADImAM phasAI gaI haze ane pachI jIpamAM besatAM-UThatAM nIce paDI gaI haze. e ja eka zakyatA lAge che.' mAsIbA bhAvavibhora thaI gayAM. A AnaMdanA samAcAra bIjA mitrone pahoMcADavA badhAM utsuka thaI gayAM. jIpano hisAba cUkate thayo. karavA dhArelI phariyAdo ogaLI gaI. ApavA dhArelI bakSisa premapUrvaka akathya vRddhi pAmI ane emAM mAsIbAe mAtabara rakama umerIne menejarane kahyuM, "A mArA taraphathI rAmazaraNane Apajo ane kahejo ke gADI sarakhAM karAvavA mATe ja A ApI che." ame utAre pAchA pharyA. vAtAvaraNa utsava jevuM banI gayuM. garIba mANaso paNa kevA ImAnadAra hoya che enI prazaMsA thaI. ame bapore citrakUTathI nIkaLI satanAthI muMbaI jatI Trena pakaDavAnAM hatAM eTale rAmazaraNane maLavAnI koI zakyatA nahotI. pharIthI maLavAnuM kyAreya thayuM nathI, paNa khajurAhonI vAta nIkaLatAM rAmazaraNanI jIpa ane enuM DrAiviMga yAda AvyA vagara rahetAM nathI. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - 3) 12 : pravAsa-darzana

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pinAMga (malayeziyA) duniyAmAM TApuo ane baMdaronuM viziSTa prakAranuM mahattva rahyuM che. prAcIna kALamAM jyAre relave ke DAmaranI saDako nahotI ane jaMgalo moTAM tathA gADha hatAM tyAre jhaDapI jalamArganuM prAdhAnya rahetuM. nadI, sarovara ke samudranA kinAre AvelAM baMdaronI samRddhi ghaNI moTI rahetI. tyAM dezavidezanA vepArIo, vahANavaTIo, pravAsIo vagerenI avarajavara bahu rahetI. prAcIna lokakathAomAM enuM pratibimba joI zakAya che. vartamAna yugamAM relave, moTarakAra, vimAna vagereno vyavahAra vadhyo hovA chatAM moTAM moTA jahAjonI avarajavara paNa eTalI ja vadhI che eTale baMdaronuM mahattva ghaDyuM nathI. sattaramAM ane aDhAramA saikAmAM yuropamAMthI nIkaLelA Daca, porTugIjha, speniza, phrenca, aMgreja vagere baMdUkadhArI sAhasika zodhasapharIo AphrikAnA kinAre thaIne eziyAnA samudrakinAre AgaLa jema jema vadhatA gayA tema tema potAnI sattA jamAvatA gayA. svarakSaNa ane vyuhAtmaka pradeza tarIke TApuono kabajo laI teo teno upayoga karavA lAgyA hatA. e rIte malAyAnA pinAMga TApu upara IsTa iMDiyA kaMpanIe I.sa. 1786mAM potAnI sattA jamAvI hatI. e pahelAM pinAMga TApunuM potAnuM svataMtra rAjAzAhI rAjya hatuM. aMgrejoe pinAMga choDyuM te pachI te malAyAnA yuniyananuM eka sabhya banyuM ane 1993 pachIthI te malayeziyAnA eka bhAgarU5 banI gayuM. pinAMga - 13

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nAriyeLI, rabara ane bIjAM ghaTAdAra vRkSothI raLiyAmaNA lAgatA ane havA khAvAnA sthaLa tarIke vikhyAta banelA A paMcakoNiyA pinAMga TApune aMgrejoe "Pearl of the Orient', 'The Pride of the Pacific', "Garden of the East' evAM sarasa nAma ApyAM hatAM, je kharekhara sArthaka lAge evAM che. tyAre pinAMga pAsenA samudrane teo paeNsiphika tarIke ja oLakhatA. doDha-be saikA pUrve bhAratamAM jyAre barmA brahmadeza tarIke, thAilaeNnDa siyAma tarIke, inDoneziyA jAvA-sumAtrA tarIke ane malayeziyA malAyA tarIke jANItAM hatAM tyAre vepAra ane vahANavaTA mATe, pinAMga bhAratavAsIo mATe mazahUra ane mahattvanuM baMdara hatuM. ghoghAbaMdaranA kinArethI cIna sudhI jatAM vahANo vacce pinAMgamAM paNa rokAtAM. e kALe malAyA ghaNo pachAta pradeza gaNAto. AMdAmAna ane nikobAranA TApuonI jema malAyAnAM jaMgalomAM paNa puruSo ane strIo nagna ke ardhanagna avasthAmAM rahetAM. aMgrejonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna siMgApora baMdarano vadhu vikAsa thayo. siMgAporanuM alaga rASTra thayA pachI malayeziyAnA pATanagara tarIke kuAlAlamparane mahattva maLatAM pinAMga pAchaLa paDI gayuM. ame pAMceka mitro 1977mAM kuAlAlapurathI pinAMga gayA hatA ane tyAM hoTela embeseDaramAM UtaryA hatA. aitihAsika ane sAMskRtika dRSTie paNa A TApuno pravAsa karavA jevo che, malAyAmAM anyatra tema pinAMgamAM paNa ApaNane mULa sthAnika prajA, cInI lokonA vaMzajo tathA bhAratIya, vizeSata: dakSiNa bhAratIya lokonA vaMzajo ema traNa prajAno triveNIsaMgama jovA maLe che. malAyAnA pazcima kinAre Avelo pinAMga TApu Azare 110 jeTalA corasa mAIlamAM patharAyelo che. emAM cArebAju samudrakinAro ane sapATa bhUmi che ane vacamAM UMcA UMcA DuMgaro che. jUnA vakhatamAM pinAMga zahera uparAMta baMdara paNa pinAMganA nAmathI ja oLakhAtuM hatuM, paraMtu aMgrejoe potAnA zAsanakALa daramiyAna baMdaranuM nAma jyorja TAuna karI nAkhyuM hatuM. pinAMga zaheramAM ame jude jude sthaLe pharyA. dakSiNa bhAratIya zailInuM hiMdu maMdira ame joyuM ane siyAmI zailInuM bauddha maMdira paNa joyuM. A bauddha maMdiranA prAMgaNamAM be yakSanI UbhI moTI mUrtio pravAsIomAM AkarSaNarUpa banI rahe che. taduparAMta ame tAMgajoMga baMgAhanA ane bATu mAuMganA samudrakinAre pharyA, bukita dubaranA pArkamAM AMTA mAryA ane 14 9 pravAsa-darzana

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gilemardanAM joDiyAM jaLAzayo paNa joyAM. have amAre zaheranI bahAra pinAMganAM traNa mukhya jovA jevAM sthaLo te parvatIya relave, sarpamaMdira ane bauddha pagoDA jovAnAM hatAM. ame parvatIya relave mATe nIkaLyA. A relave pinAMganI eka moTI lAkSaNikatA che. aMgrejoe potAnA zAsanakALa daramiyAna e banAvelI. pinAMganI uttare AvelA lagabhaga aDhI hajAra phUTa UMcA ane sIdhA kaparA DuMgara para banAvelI eka DabbAnI A Trena tAranA jADA doraDA vaDe dhIme dhIme upara kheMcAtI jAya che. aMdara beThelAoe barAbara samatolapaNuM jALavavuM paDe. kazuMka pakaDIne besavuM paDe. A TrenamAM besavAno eka romAMcaka anubhava che. DuMgara uparanI vizALa samathaLa jagyA eTale jANe nAnuM hila sTezana. tyAMthI dUra sudhInuM AsapAsanuM dRzya manohara lAge che. maMda vaheto malayAnila zItaLa vAtAvaraNane prasannatAthI bharI de che. pinAMgamAM jovA jevuM eka anokhuM sthaLa te sarpamaMdira che. zaherathI thoDA mAIla dUra, jelutoMga nAmano rasto pUro thAya che tyAM TekarI upara A maMdira AveluM che. TeksI karIne ame tyAM pahoMcyA. cInI zailInA pravezadvAravALuM, eka saikAthI vadhu jUnuM A maMdira mULa to "hoka hina toMga' tarIke eTale ke jaLadevatAnI pUjAbhakti mATe zarU thayeluM, paNa pachI e bauddha maMdira banI gayuM che. emAM dAkhala thatAM ja saMkhyAbaMdha sarpa najare paDe che. lokonI avarajavara na hoya ane koI ekaluM acAnaka gayuM hoya to bIka paNa lAge. sarpa ekabe IMca jeTalA jADA ane betraNa phUTa jeTalA lAMbA, AchA ke gherA lIlA raMganA che. badhA eka ja gotranA che. dhUpadAnI, phUlAvaravAjhamAM rAkhelI sUkI DAMkhaLIo, kabATa, Tebala vagere para jyAM jagyA maLe tyAM nAnAmoTA pacAsathI adhika sarpa kazAkane vIMTaLAIne zAntithI paDyA rahelA dekhAya che. sarpa doDAdoDI karatA nathI ke yAtrikone joIne gabharAIne bhAgatA nathI. jANe pALelA hoya tema paDyA rahyA hoya athavA sAva maMthara gatie jarA jarA khasatA hoya tema najare paDe che. A sarpano khorAka IMDA che. sarpa maMdiranI bahAra bhakSaNa mATe jatA nathI eTale keTalAka yAtriko sarpa mATe iMDAM lAvIne game tyAM mUkI de che. jyAre koInI avarajavara na hoya tyAre sarpa iMDAMmAM kANuM pADI emAMthI rasa cUsI le che. A sarpanI eka khAsiyata e che ke sApaNa iMDAM mUkatI nathI, paNa betraNa IMca jeTalAM nAnAM aLasiyAM jevAM baccAMne janma Ape che. vaLate divase ame TekarI para AveluM "keha loka sI' nAmanuM malAyAnuM pinAMga 15

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suprasiddha bauddha maMdira jovA mATe TaeNksImAM pahoMcyA. amAro TaeNksI DrAivara amAro gAiDa paNa hato. TekarI para caDavA mATe pagathiyAM paNa banAvyAM hatAM. ame thoDeka gayA tyAM eka taLAva AvyuM. kAcabAnA taLAva tarIke e jANItuM che. emAM jeTalA jovA maLyA eTalA badhA kAcabA eka taLAvamAM jvalle ja jovA maLe. A taLAvanI viziSTatA e che ke A badhA ja kAcabA jIvatadAna pAmelA che. kAcabAnuM A 'nirbhaya taDAga' che. jaina dharmanI jema bauddha dharma paNa ahiMsAne varelo che. jIva choDAvavAnI pravRtti bauddha dharmamAM paNa che. dharmapremI dayALu mANaso koIka kAcabAne choDAvI A taLAvamAM mUkI zake che. e rIte kAcabAnI saMkhyA ahIM vadhatI ja rahe che. vaLI kAcabAnuM AyuSya paNa ghaNuM lAMbu hoya che. keTalAka loko kAcabAnI nakkara pITha upara potAnuM nAma ane tArIkha kotarAve ke raMgAve che ke jethI potAnA vaMzavArasone koIka vAra kadAca e vAMcavA maLe. kAcabAnI jema bIjA eka taLAvamAM mAchalIo che. ene mAravA para paNa pratibaMdha che. loko kAcabA ane mAchalIone khAvA mATe kaMIka vAnagIo nAkhatA hoya che. ame AgaLa cAlyA. amArA gAiDe kahyuM, "maherabAnI karIne rastAnI vacamAM cAlajo, jethI tamArA paga bagaDe nahi." ame joyuM to rastAmAM eka kinAre kyAMka kyAMka lokoe zaucakriyA karelI dekhAtI hatI. ame moDhuM pheravI lIdhuM. AvA pavitra tIrthasthaLe paNa loko gaMdakI karatAM acakAtA nathI.' amArAmAMnA eka Takora karI. lokone zarama nahi AvatI hoya ? sAme A dukAnavALA paNa kaMI nahi bolatA hoya ?" bIjAe kahyuM. lokonI asaMskAritAnI te kaMI hada hoya ke nahi ?' vaLI koIke potAno Akroza ThAlavyo. tame bIjAnI TIkA karo cho, paNa ApaNA bhAratamAM paNa Thera Thera jAhera rastA para ke relavenA pATA AgaLa loko rojeroja loTo ke DabaluM laIne kyAM nathI besatA ?" bIjAe javAba Apyo. eziyAnA gIca vastIvALA ane ochI suvidhAvALA garama dezomAM hajAro varSathI khullAmAM javAnI prathA cAlI Ave che, paNa AvA tIrthasthaLamAM mANase viveka vAparavo joIe,' kahyuM. 16 - pravAsa-darzana

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sAruM che ke taDako che. nahi to keTalI durgadha mAre !" bIjA eke kahyuM. maLavisarjananAM dazyo joIne ame anubhavelI aprasannatA bauddha maMdiramAM dAkhala thatAM ja ochI thaI gaI. "keha loka sI'nuM bauddha maMdira eka saikAthI vadhu jUnuM che, paraMtu enA pegoDAnuM bAMdhakAma vIsamI sadInA AraMbhanuM che. jUnA vakhatamAM be cInI bauddha sAdhuo potAnA ghaNA anuyAyIo sAthe pinAMga AvelA. teoe ahIM DuMgara upara bauddha maMdira bAMdhavAnI bhAvanA darzAvelI. eka cInI zrImaMta vepArIe potAnI vizALa jagyA bheTa tarIke ApI. emAM A bauddha maMdiranuM nirmANa thayuM. vakhata jatAM bhaktonI avarajavara vadhatAM Azare so phUTa UMcuM, sAta mALa jevI racanAvALuM pegoDAnA prakAranuM paththaranuM A maMdira bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM. bhagavAna tathAgatanA maMdira tarIke jANItA A navanirmita maMdiranuM uddaghATana 1930mAM thayuM hatuM. maMdiranI aMdaranI ane bahAranI bhavyatA yAtrikonAM mana harI le evI che. bauddha maMdira joI ame pAchA pharyA. gAiDe kahyuM ke "kaMIka yAdagIrI (soveni2) tarIke koIka cIjavastu kharIdavI hoya to ahIM dukAnomAM sarasa maLe che.' ame eka dukAne pahoMcyA. pahoMcatAM ja amArAmAMnA eke dukAnadArane phariyAda karI, "tamArI dukAna sAme loko maLavisarjana karI jAya che ene tame kema calAvI lo cho ?' amArI najara sAme thoDA koI karavA bese che ? e to vahelA AvIne karI jatA haze. utAvaLa hoya to ja karatA haze ne ?' tamAre polIsamAM phariyAda karavI joIe.' amAre kaMI phariyAda karavI nathI. ethI kaMI vaLavAnuM nathI. UlaTAnuM phariyAda na karavAthI amane phAyado che.' phAyado ? kevI rIte ? amArI majAka to nathI karatA ne ?' nA; phAyado eTalA mATe ke A nimitte pravAsIo amane phariyAda karavA Ave che ane pachI amArA soveniramAMthI kaMIka ne kaMIka kharIdI jAya che.' ame soveniro jovAmAM magna banyA. tyAM dukAnadAre kahyuM, "amArI pAse evI vastu paNa che ke je duniyAmAM tamane kyAMya jovA nahi maLe.' evI te kaI vastu che ? amane batAvo ne ?' dukAnadAre eka moTA boksamAMthI kADhIne pAMca vastuo kAunTara para mUkI dIdhI. pinAMga H 17

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e joIne ame tatpaNa stabdha thaI gayA, DaghAI ja gayA. zI hatI e vastu ? jiMdagImAM kyAreya joI na hoya ane chatAM roja joI hoya evI e vastu hatI. e hatI maLavisarjananI - visarjita maLanI pratikRti, rabaraplAsTikanI banAvelI. gherA pILA, lIlAza paDatA pILA, gherA badAmI, AchA rAkhoDI ke evA bIjA koI raMganI judA judA AkAranI e pratikRtio eTalI badhI Abehuba banAvelI hatI ke jANe sAcI ja lAge. e joIne koI paNa mANasa avazya chetarAI ja jAya. e vastu hatI to ramakaDAM jevI, paNa ApaNane tenI sAme jotAM paNa cItarI caDe. dukAnadArane e hAthamAM letAM kazI cItarI nahotI caDatI, kAraNa ke eno rojano vyavasAya hato. to pachI tamArI dukAnanI sAme che e badhI nakalI AkRti che ?' ame pUchayuM. "hA jI, ame pote ja savAranA dukAna kholatI vakhate sAme rastA para e mUkI daIe chIe." "paNa tamArI A sUga caDe evI vastu kharIde koNa ?' jene sUga caDe te na laI jAya, paraMtu bIjA laI jAya che. koIne mUrkha banAvavA, koIne bhaDakAvI devA, prekTikala "joka' mATe yuvAno, nAnAmoTA chokarAo A vastu ghaNI laI jAya che. koI beThuM hoya enI bAjumAM A mUkI devAthI mANasa tarata Ubho thaI jAya. TrenamAM, basamAM ke koI sabhAmAM bhIDa hoya tyAre siphatathI A mUkI daIne pachI bIjAne uThADI jagyA meLavI zakAya che. eprilaphUla mATe TapAlamAM sarasa paeNkiMga karIne ravAnA karI zakAya che. koI abhimAnI mANasanuM abhimAna utArI zakAya che.' dukAnadAre enA upayogo darzAvyA, paNa ame koIe te vastu kharIdI nahi; kharIdI zakyA nahi. aparasane mANavAvALA loko paNa duniyAmAM hoya che e jANI Azcarya anubhavyuM. ame bIjAM keTalAMka sovenira kharIdyAM, jagatamAM keTalIka vastuo, vAto ane kAryo niSiddha (Taboo) gaNAya che, paraMtu temAM paNa bhinna bhinna prajA vacce tenuM bhinna bhinna pramANa hoya che. dareka prajAnI saMskAritAnI pArAzIzI ekasarakhI nathI hotI. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) 18 : pravAsa-darzana

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kavAI nadInA kinAre (thAilenDa) varSa 1977nuM hatuM. ame keTalAka mitro thAilaeNnDanA pravAse gayA hatA. tyAre e dezano eTalo vikAsa thayo nahoto. thAilenDanuM mULa prAcIna nAma te siyAma. eka jamAnAmAM bhAratIya dharma ane saMskRtino pracAra ane prabhAva TheTha siyAmathI paNa AgaLa pahoMcyo hato. siyAmanAM bauddha maMdiro jotAM A vAtanI khAtarI thayA vagara rahe nahi. thAilenDanA pATanagara beMgakokamAM ame hoTela inTara-konTinenTalamAM UtaryA hatA. ame zaheranAM jovAlAyaka sthaLo uparAMta prAcIna nagarI ayuggA (ayodhyA), pattayA, taratI bajAra vagere jude jude sthaLe pharI lIdhuM hatuM. have kyAM pharavA javuM eno vicAra karatA hatA tyAM amArA TeksI DrAivare prastAva mUkyo ke "sara, kavAi nadIno pula jovo che ?" amAro TeksI DrAivara ja amAro bhomiyo hato. te moTI uMmarano, bhalo ane ghaNI vAtono jANakAra hato. te iMgliza bolato hato, paNa bhAMgyuMtUTyuM. enA uccAro lAkSaNika thAI uccAro jevA hatA. enI sAthe iMglizamAM thatI vAtacItamAM vyAkaraNanI bhUlo tarapha najara na karIe to enA vaktavyanuM hArda samajAya evuM hatuM. hAthamoDhAnA izArA paNa emAM madadarUpa thatA. kavAI nadInuM nAma sAMbhaLatAM ja meM pUchyuM, "kaI kavAI nadI ? peluM bahu sarasa calacitra AvyuM hatuM - The Bridge on the River Kwai - e kavAI nadI ?" kavAI nadInA kinAre ja 19

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'hA, e ja kavAI nadI. enuM AkhuM nAma 'kavAI yAI' che. e calacitre amArI kavAI nadI ane enA para AvelA relave pulane khyAtanAma karI dIdhAM che. nahi to A nAnI kavAI nadI duniyAnA kayA khUNAmAM AvI che te koNa jANatuM hoya ?' 'oha, to to e sthaLa jarU2 jovuM che. e prakhyAta calacitra ame joyuM hatuM ane amane te bahu ja gamyuM hatuM.' DrAivaranI sAthe badhuM TharAvI ame bIje divase savAre kavAI nadInA kinAre javA nIkaLyA. I. sa. 1955thI 1960nA gALAmAM The Bridge on the River Kwai nAmanuM cacitra muMbaImAM AvyuM hatuM. enI paTakathA, enAM pAtro, e pAtrono prabhAvazALI abhinaya, prakRtinAM manohara dRzyo, romAMca khaDA kare evI taMgadilIbharI ghaTanAo, sarasa phoTogrAphI e badhAMne lIdhe paMkAyeluM ane pAritoSiko meLavanAruM e calacitra bahu cAlyuM hatuM. emAM bIjA vizvayuddhanI eka ghaTanA sarasa rIte batAvAI hatI. Ama paNa yuddhasya cA ramyA ema kahevAya che, paraMtu bIjA vizvayuddhamAM jarmanI ane jApAnano parAjaya thayA pachI je aneka calacitro briTana, phrAnsa, amerikA vagere vijetA dezoe banAvyAM emAM parAjita dezone atyaMta kharAba cItaravAno irAdApUrvakano pracArAtmaka hetu joI zakAto hato, paraMtu DaeNviDa liyananA mArgadarzana heThaLa taiyAra thayelA ane eleka ginanesanI mukhya bhUmikAvALA A calacitramAM jApAnane badanAma karavAno jarA paNa Azaya jaNAto nahoto. emAM taTasthatApUrvaka, kalAnI dRSTie vAstavikatAnuM nirUpaNa karavAno Azaya hato. bIjuM vizvayuddha phATI nIkaLyuM yuropamAM, paraMtu enA aMtanI zarUAta eTama baoNmbane lIdhe eziyAmAM thaI. jarmanIe briTananI sAme yuddha jAhera karyuM. e yuddha oNsTreliyAnA kinArA sudhI ane amerikAnA parla hArbara sudhI pahoMcyuM. pRthvInA pAMce khaMDa yuddhagrasta banI gayA. jApAne siMgApora, malAyA, thAilaeNnDa ane barmA sudhInA dezo para AkramaNa karI e kabaje karI lIdhA. jApAnanAM yuddhajahAjo baMgALanA upasAgaramAM pahoMcI gayAM. kalakattA upara bhaya toLAvA lAgyo hato. pUrvataiyArIrUpe muMbaImAM rAtane vakhate aMdhArapaTa (Black out) chavAI gayo hato. yuddhamAM nItiniyamo khAsa hoya nahi. yuddha eTale narI nirdayatA. duzmana pratye dayA batAve e yuddhamAM vijetA na thaI zake. jarmanI ane 20 * pravAsa-darzana

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jApAne yuddhamAM ghaNA bhayaMkara atyAcAro karyA hatA. jApAne karelA atyAcAromAMno eka te potAnI AgekUca karavA mATe yuddhakedIo ane veTha- majUro pAse siyAmathI barmA-myAnamAra (brahmadeza) sudhInI baMdhAvelI relavelAInano hato, jemAM ochuM khAvAnuM tathA sakhata majUrI ane mArane kAraNe relave pUrI baMdhAtA sudhImAM be lAkhathI vadhu mANaso mRtyu pAmyA hatA. A relave-lAInamAM mahattvanuM eka agharuM kArya te vacce AvatI kavAI nadI upara pula bAMdhavAnuM hatuM. - beMgakoka choDI amArI TaeNksI thAilenDanI vAyavya dizAmAM kAMcanAbura (kAMcanapura) tarapha javA UpaDI. jema jema ame AgaLa vadhatA gayA tema tema DAMgaranAM khetaro ocho thatAM gayAM ane jaMgalanI gIca hariyALI . jhADI vadhatI gaI. vacce nAnAM nAnAM chUTAMchavAyAM gAmaDAM AvatAM gayAM. bhAratamAM govA ke keraLanA grAmavistAromAMthI pasAra thatAM jevAM dRzyo jovA maLe tevAM dRzyo ahIM jovA maLyAM. kyAMka hAthIo paNa dekhAyA. brahmadezanI sarahada tarapha jatA A rastA para AvelAM gAmaDAMonA lokone joIe to teo dekhAve barmI jevA ja lAge. A bAju uttare "mona" nAmanI jAtinA loko vase che. teonI bhASA barmI ane siyAmInI mizra jevI lAge. kavAI nadI sudhIno rasto cAreka kalAkano hato. ame bIjA vizvayuddhanA divasomAM chApAMomAM AvatA ahevAlone ane The Bridge on the River kwai calacitranAM dRzyone smRtipaTa para tAjAM karavA lAgyA yAda rahI jAya evuM sarasa e calacitra hatuM. emAM batAvyA pramANe jApAne siyAMmamAM hajAro sainikone keda karyA che. Thera Thera yuddhakedIonI chAvaNIo sthapAI gaI che. yuddha kedIone khavaDAvavAnI javAbadArI vijayI senAdhipatinI hoya che. bIjI bAju te sainiko pAse sakhata majUrI paNa karAvI zake che. siyAma para kabajo jamAvyA pachI jApAna brahmadeza tarapha AgekUca karavA icche che, paraMtu e jaMgalano vistAra che. emAM kUca karIne javAnuM sainiko mATe saraLa nathI. jo relavelAIna nakhAya to hajAro sainiko pAMcacha kalAkamAM tyAM pahoMcI jaI zake. A pradezanI jemane javAbadArI soMpavAmAM AvI che te jApAnI senAdhipati karnala sAItone uparI sattAvALAo taraphathI hukama thAya che ke "barmA tarapha AgekUca karavA mATe yuddhakedIone majUro tarIke tarata kAme lagADI do ane beMgakokathI raMgUna sudhInI Azare pAMcaso kilomITaranI relavelAIna nirdhArita samayamAM pUrI karI do." lazkarI kavAI nadInA kinAre eka 21

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hukama eTale lazkarI hukama. emAM eka divasanuM moDuM paNa na cAle. emAM koI bahAnAM kADhI na zakAya. karnala sAItone hukama maLatAM ja yuddhakedIone ane veTha-majUrone kAme lagADI dIdhA. relavelAina taiyAra karavAnuM kAma yuddhanA dhoraNe' cAlavA lAgyuM. emAM kaparuM kArya hatuM vacce AvatI kavAI nadI upara pula bAMdhavAnuM. yuddhakedIomAM mukhyatve siyAmI hatA, taduparAMta aMgrejo potAnI sAthe laI gayelA barmI ane bhAratIya sainiko paNa hatA. keTalAka aMgreja yuddhakedIo paNa hatA. A badhA yuddhakedIonA adhipati hatA eka briTiza karnala nikolasana. badhA yuddha kedIo kAme lAgI gayA, paraMtu karnala nikolasane karnala sAItone kahyuM, "huM karnala chuM. senAdhipati chuM. jInivAkarAra pramANe huM dekharekha rAkhIza, paNa zArIrika majUrI nahi karuM." sAitoe kahyuM, "jInivAkarAra rahyA tamAre ghare. ahIM to tame mArA yuddha kedI cho ane mArA hukama pramANe kAma karavuM paDaze. tamAre zArIrika majUrI nathI karavI ? to UbhA raho tyAM taDakAmAM patarAnI kaeNbinamAM Akho divasa." ThaMDA pradezamAMthI AvatA gorI cAmaDIvALA briTiza karnalane mATe majUrI karatAM paNa taDakAmAM UbhA rahevAnI sajA vadhu bhAre hatI. teo paraseve rebajheba thavA lAgyA. vaLI temane vicAra Avyo ke pote jo vidroha karaze to potAnA ghaNA sainiko vagara vAMke vahelA motane bheTaze. sattA AgaLa zANapaNa bahu cAle nahi. teo DhIlA paDyA. bIjI bAju sAItone vicAra Avyo ke yuddhakedIono jo sahakAra nahi maLe to pote nirdhArita samayamAM relavelAIna ane kvAIno pula bAMdhI nahi zake. jo ema thaze to potAne uparI adhipati AgaLa moDhuM batAvavA jevuM nahi rahe. jApAnI rivAja pramANe potAne hArAkIrI' (ApaghAta) karavAno vakhata Avaze. eTale teo paNa thoDA DhIlA paDyA. Ama chevaTe samAdhAna thayuM ane pula bAMdhavAnuM kAma bamaNA jorathI cAlavA lAgyuM. ethI nirdhArita samaye pula baMdhAI gayo ane enA parathI Trena pasAra thaI. briTiza karnalano chUTo paDelo eka sAthIdAra, nadInA pANImAM jhaMpalAvI, ghasaDAIne barmA bAjunA koIka gAme pahoMcI gayo hato. tyAM teNe gerIlA yuddha karIne baMdhAtA pulane visphoTaka padArtha vaDe uDAvI devAnuM kAvataruM goThavyuM, paraMtu teNe AvIne jyAre joyuM ke briTiza karnala jApAnI karnalane sahakAra Apyo che tyAre teNe kAvataruM karavAnuM mAMDI vALyuM. Ama e calacitranI AchIpAtaLI kathArekhAne yAda karatA ame 22 = pravAsa-darzana

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AgaLa vadhatA hatA. jema jema AgaLa jatA gayA tema tema bIjAM vRkSo uparAMta sIsama ane vAMsanAM vRkSo vadhu jovA maLatAM gayAM. sAMkaDA raste (have rastA moTA thayA che) vaLAMko letI amArI gADI cAlatI hatI. kyAMka rastAnI najIka ja lokonAM jhUpaDAM dekhAtAM hatAM. A jhUMpaDAMo iMTamATInAM nahi paNa vAMsamATInAM banAvelAM hatAM. A bAju vAMsa jADA ane khAssA UMcA thAya che. ene kApI, sUkavI, vAMsaDA banAvI eno vividha prakArano upayoga ahIMnA loko kare che. loko vAMsanA tarApA paNa banAve che. tarApA hoDInI jema pANImAM cAle che. hoDI karatAM tarApo banAvavAnuM saheluM ane sastuM che. loko eka gAmathI bIjA gAme tarApA para besIne paNa jAya che. keTalAka loko nadImAM mAchalInA zikAra mATe paNa eno upayoga kare che. keTalAka zokhIno tarApA para ghara jevuM banAvI nadInA pANI para rahe che. A tarApAgRhonI jIvanazailI judA ja prakAranI che. cAreka kalAkano rasto kApyA pachI kavAI nadInAM amane darzana thayAM. aho, A nAnakaDI nadInuM paNa kevuM sadbhAgya ke te vizvavikhyAta banI gaI. nadI zAMtapaNe vahetI hatI. enuM pANI nirmaLa nahi paNa mATIvALuM DahoLuM hatuM. thoDI miniTomAM ame kavAI nadI para bAMdhavAmAM AvelA relavenA pula pAse AvI pahoMcyA. je sthaLa calacitramAM joyuM hatuM te sAkSAt jovA maLatAM ame romAMca anubhavyo. TaeNksImAMthI UtarI ame pula pAse gayA. lagabhaga sAta hajAra yuddhakedIono bhoga lenAra A lohiyALa pula hato. sthAnika loko A relavene "motanI relave" tarIke oLakhe che. barmA bAjunI relavelAIna aMgrejoe yuddhamAM vijaya meLavyA pachI ukheDI nAkhI hatI. siyAmamAM e baMdha paDI rahI che. koI tyaktA nArInA haNAyelA teja jevI e lAgatI hatI. eka bAju enjina ane traNa DabbA paDyAM hatAM. yuddhanA smAraka tarIke ene sAcavavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. pAse eka gAmaThI nAnI resTorAM hatI. e sivAya ahIM koI vastI nahotI. A nIrava virAna pradezamAM, nIce dharatI ane upara AkAzanI vacce UbhelA ame amArA avAjathI jANe vAtAvaraNamAM hastakSepa karatA hoIe ema lAgatuM hatuM. prAkRtika vAtAvaraNamAM mAnavasarjita AkRti te kSitija sudhI laMbAyelA dekhAtA relavenA pATA hatA. thoDA aMtara pachI brahmadezanI sarahada zarU thatI hatI. jUnA vakhatamAM brahmadezanI gaNanA hiMdustAnanA eka bhAga tarIke ja thatI hatI. aMgrejoe brahmadeza ane zrIlaMkAnAM judAM rASTronI racanA kavAI nadInA kinAre * 23

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karI hatI. vizvayuddha vakhate aMgrejoe hajAro bhAratIya sainikone brahmadezanA rakSaNa mATe mokalyA hatA. ame pula upara, relavenA pATA upara sAcavIne cAlatAM cAlatAM nadInA sAmA kinArA sudhI jaI AvyA. pAchA pharatAM pula para adhavacce eka jagyAe beThA. ahIM kyAM koI Trena AvavAnI ciMtA hatI ? zAMtithI beThAM beThAM ame AsapAsanAM dRzyo nihALyA karyAM. zahIda thayelA yuddhakedIone manamAM bhAvapUrvaka zraddhAMjali arpI. thoDI vAra pachI meM DrAivara-gAiDane kahyuM, 'A pula Ama to keTalo nAno ane nIco dekhAya che ! calacitramAM to pula keTalo moTo ane UMco dekhAya che !' eka mitre kahyuM, 'e phoTogrAphInI karAmata che. kaeNmerAnI zakti gajabanI hoya che.' bIjA mitre kahyuM, 'e karAmata nahi, paNa kalA kahevAya. citrakAra jema potAne batAvavuM hoya e ja dRSTikoNathI citra dore, tema calacitrakAra paNa potAnA dRSTikoNathI dRzya batAve. vAstavikatAne sarasa opa ApavAnI zakti lAmAM hoya che. kalAkAra potAne je batAvavuM hoya te batAve ane je chupAvavuM hoya te chupAve. eTaluM ja nahi, hoya tenA karatAM tene juduM batAve. phoTogrAphI dvArA, judA judA lensa dvArA calacitramAM to evuM karavAno ghaNo avakAza rahe che. nIce nadImAM pANI hatuM, paNa te beya kAMThA sudhInuM nahotuM. meM gAiDane pUchyuM, 'nadImAM kAyama ATaluM ochuM pANI rahe che ?' 'varasAda paDe tyAre vadhe athavA uparavAsamAM pUra Ave tyAre vadhe ane te paNa thoDA divasa mATe. pachI to ATaluM ja pANI rahe che.' 'calacitramAM to keTaluM badhuM pANI batAvAyuM che ! pula uparathI mANasa bhUsako mAre che. eTale eTaluM UMDuM pANI emAM che.' 'emAM paNa phoTogrAphInI karAmata hoI zake. sAruM calacitra banAvavA sAru pANI batAvavuM paDe.' eka mitre kahyuM. eTalAmAM pula nIcethI eka hoDI pANImAM pasAra thatI hatI. gAiDe pUchyuM, 'tamAre hoDImAM pharavuM che ?' 'hAsto ! ATale sudhI AvyA chIe to, nadImAM sahelagAha karyA vagara kema jaIe ?' ame kahyuM. ame pula parathI pAchA kinAre AvI, nIce UtarI nadInA paTamAM 24 * pravAsa-darzana

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gayA. hoDIvALA sAthe kalAkanuM TharAvIne beThA. halesAM ane vAMsaDA vaDe hAMDI sarakavA lAgI. pANI khAsa UMDuM nahotuM. khAkhI raMganuM DahoLuM pANI paNa cittane prasannatA ApavAnI kSamatA dharAvatuM hatuM. baMne kAMThAnI naisargika ramaNIyatA hRdayane ullasita karI de tevI hatI. kAMThe vaselAM koI koI nAnAM gAmaDAMomAM thoDI avarajavara dekhAtI hatI. mANaso kyAM kyAM vase che ane tyAM ne tyAM ja potAnuM jIvana pUruM kare che eno khayAla AvA pradezomAM na AvelA zaherIjanone kyAMthI Ave ? jalavihAra karI ame pAchA pharyA. gAmaThI resTorAMmAM alpAhAra laI ame kavAI nadInA pulanI vidAya lIdhI. eNe amArA cittamAM viSAdanI lAgaNI prasarAvI dIdhI hatI. Ama to pula bAMdhavAmAM eka paNa mANasa zA mATe maravo joIe ? koI akasmAta thAya to te judI vAta che, paNa A pula to aDadhA bhUkhyA yuddhakedIo pAse mA2ImA2Ine parANe baMdhAvelo che. jeo maratA jAya teone pAsenI khullI jagyAmAM daphanAvAtA jAya. keTalA yuddhakedIo maryA haze ? Ama to yuddhanA AMkaDA atizayokti bharelA paNa hoya che eTale bAra-paMdara hajAra yuddhakedIonA kahevAtA AMkaDAmAMthI ochA karavA hoya teTalA ochA karIe topaNa dhArelo AMkaDo narI nirdayatAno ja ghotaka banI rahe che. pAchA pharatAM ame yuddhakedIonuM kabrastAna jovA gADI thaMbhAvI. sAmAnya kabrastAnanI mudrA eka prakAranI hoya che ane sAmUhika daphanavidhi thaI hoya evA, vizeSata: sainikonA kabrastAnanI judI hoya che. laMbacorasa ane upara sainikanuM nAma kotarelI zilAonI najIka najIka sarakhA aMtare hAra jotAM eka viziSTa bhaumitika AkRti lAge. ADI ane UbhI sarakhI hAra jotAM ja lAge ke A khAsa banAveluM kabrastAna che. A kabrastAna to yuddhasmAraka War Memorial - che. zilAo vacce UgelAM puSpo tathA lIlAchama ghAsane lIdhe samagra dazyanI judI ja chApa paDatI hatI. yuddhamAM jApAnano parAjaya thayo eTale ahIM poDhelA AtmAonI kurabAnI nirarthaka nathI gaI ema lAge. emane ame manomana vaMdana karyAM. keTaleka sthaLe kabrastAnomAM bane che tema ahIM paNa baneluM joyuM. vaccethI eka keDI pasAra thatI hatI. kabrastAnanA eka daravAjethI dAkhala thaI zALAmAMthI chUTelAM nAnAM bALako bIje daravAje nIkaLatAM hatAM. TUMko rasto zodhI kADhavo e to manuSyano svabhAva che. e mATe rojeroja smazAna ke kabrastAnamAM jatAM paNa mANasa acakAto nathI. keTalAka mANasone bIka lAge che, paraMtu vastI jyAre smazAna ke kabrastAnanI najIka AvatI jAya

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che tyAre enI bhayAnakatA ochI thaI jAya che. rojeroja emAMthI javAAvavAne lIdhe mANasanI saMvedanazIlatA paNa ochI thaI jAya che. prAthamika zALAnA A vidyArthIono gaNaveza hato - sapheda zarTa ane gherA vAdaLI raMganI aDadhI caDDI. e jotAM ja mane thayuM ke are, A to mAro paNa nAnapaNamAM gaNaveza hato. aMgrejonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna sapheda zarTa sAthe khAkhI raMganI ke gherA vAdaLI raMganI aDadhI caDDI zALAnA vidyArthIoe paheravAnI rahetI. A bhUlakAMone joIne huM jANe mArA bAlyakALanAM saMsmaraNomAM sarI paDyo. bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate muMbaImAM rAtane vakhate aMdhArapaTa (Black Out) chavAI jato. sAyarana vAge tyAre zuM karavuM eno lokone mahAvaro karAvAto. 14mI eprila 1944nA roja godImAM jahAjamAM visphoTaka dravyone lIdhe bhayaMkara dhaDAko thayelo ane jANe jApAnIo AvI pahoMcyA che evo bhaya prasarelo. ghaDIbhara bhUtAvaLanA e vicAromAM huM vilIna thaI gayo hato. kabrastAna joI ame gADImAM beThA. have sIdhA beMgakoka pahoMcavAnuM hatuM. DrAivare kahyuM, "joyone kavAI nadIno vikhyAta pula ! "hA, kharekhara eka aitihAsika sthaLa jovA maLyuM.' "amArA lokone to A pula vize badhI khabara che, paNa calacitra UtaryA pachI to e duniyAmAM mazahUra banI gayo che." "are, ame to agAu A nadInuM nAma paNa kyAreya sAMbhaLyuM nahotuM. calacitre ene AkhI duniyAmAM jANItuM karI dIdhuM." eka mitre kahyuM. meM mArI adhyApakIya zailIthI kahyuM, "kalAnI e ja to mahattA che. kalAkAra potAnI kalpanAthI ane AgavI kalAdaSTithI vAstavikatAne evI navInatA arpe che ke je bhAvakane AnaMdanI anubhUti karAve che. kyAreka to e vAstavikatAne kalpanAthI evI rIte DhAMkI de che ke vAta na pUcho.' tamArI vAta sAcI che." DrAivare kahyuM ane umeryuM, 'eka vAtano khulAso karuM. AkhI duniyAmAM aneka lokoe calacitramAM kavAI nadI ane eno pula joyAM, paraMtu vAstavika rIte zuM banyuM te khabara che ? nA.' siyAmanI A aitihAsika ghaTanA parathI pitherI boule nAmanA kathAkAre maulika kathA to lakhI, paraMtu emAM eNe potAnI kalpanAnA raMgo pUryA. sAtoI ane nikolasananAM nAmo paNa kAlpanika che ane temanI vacce banelI ghaTanA paNa kAlpanika che." paNa evuM to kAlpanika kathAmAM hovAnuM ja." 29 * pravAsa-darzana

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"e sAcuM, paNa kathA lakhanAre lakhatI vakhate kavAI nadIno pula joyo haze ke kema te vize paNa mane zaMkA che, kAraNa ke enA uparathI calacitra utAranArA ahIM AvyA tyAre mUMjhavaNamAM mukAI gayA. kathAkAre varNavelAM je keTalAMka dRzyo batAvavAM che e mATe to A nadI ane A pula baMne nAnAM paDe ema che. have karavuM zuM ? paraMtu kalAkAra enuM nAma ke je AmAMthI kalAtmaka rasto zodhI kADhe." eTale teoe zuM karyuM ?' teone jyAre lAgyuM ke A pula kAmamAM Ave evo nathI, vaLI navo pula baMdhAto batAvavo che, to te paNa ahIM zakya nathI eTale AvA vAtAvaraNavALo bIjo pula zodhI kADhavo joIe. kavAI nadInA pula para kaMI chApa mArI che ? evI jagyA zodhatAM zodhatAM zrIlaMkAmAM e maLI AvI. eTale jaMgala vagerenAM keTalAMka dRzyo ahIMnAM lIdhAM ane nadI, pula, Trena vagerenAM dazyo zrIlaMkAmAM jaIne lIdhAM. e baMnenuM saMyojana karIne calacitra banAvyuM." "kharekhara ? A to na mAnyAmAM Ave evI vAta che." paNa e taddana sAcI vAta che. "The Bridge on the River Kwai' calacitramAM batAvAtI nadI te kavAI nadI nathI ane je pula batAvAya che te pula paNa kavAI nadI parano nathI. kavAI nadInA pula upara cAlatAM tamane je zaMkA thaI hatI ke pula calacitramAM dekhAya che eTalo UMco ane moTo nathI tathA nadImAM pANI bahu nathI te zaMkA sAcI hatI." sAce ja mahAna kalAkAro kalpanAne evuM vAstavikatAnuM svarUpa ApI zake che ke te pratItikara lAgyA vagara rahe nahi" meM kahyuM. DrAivare kahyuM, "sAco aitihAsika pula ane kAlpanika calacitra e baMne jemaNe joyAM hoya temane ja A vAta tarata samajAya evI che. amane lokone to enI khabara che ja, paraMtu pravAsIo AgaLa pahelethI ame A spaSTatA karatA nathI." amArI TaeNksI beMgakoka pAse AvI tyAre aMdhAruM thavA lAgyuM hatuM. (thAI sarakAre A relave pulanA sthaLane have paryaTana-kendra tarIke vikasAvyuM che ane tyAM dhvani- prakAzanA kAryakramanuM Ayojana paNa karyuM che.] (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) kavAI nadInA kinAre * 27

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boro budura (InDoneziyA) annavastrAdinI lAlaca dekhADyA vinA ke zastrono bhaya batAvyA vinA, ahiMsA, prema ane zAMtino saMdezo laIne dharmano pracAra karavAmAM bauddha dharma duniyAmAM mokhare rahyo che. eka kALe cIna, jApAna ane koriyA sahita samagra eziyAmAM bauddha dharma prasarI gayo hato. emAM rAjyAzraye paNa mahattvanuM kArya karyuM hatuM. nAnAMmoTAM bauddha maMdiro to duniyAmAM seMkaDo che, paraMtu uttega, vizALa, sthApatyakaLAmAM ananya bhAta pADanArAM prAcIna bauddha maMdiromAM, cInajApAnanAM maMdiro uparAMta brahmadezanuM svaDegona pegoDA, kaMboDiyAnuM aMgarakoravATa ane inDoneziyAjAvAnuM borobudura mazahUra che. borobaduranAM darzana karavAnI icchA to ghaNA vakhatathI hatI paNa tevo koI suyoga sAMpaDato nahoto. eka vakhata bAlImAM ame hatA tyAre acAnaka evo avasara prApta thayo. bAlIthI jakArtA jatAM vacce jagyAkArtA UtaravAnuM ame nakkI karyuM ke jethI tyAMthI borobudura jaI zakAya. borobudura inDoneziyAnA jAvA TApumAM jagyAkArtA zaherathI Azare cAlIsa kilomITara dUra AveluM che. inDoneziyAnI bhASA upara saMskRta bhASAno prabhAva ghaNo rahyo che. kartA eTale sthaLa athavA nagarI. jayakartA eTale vijayanuM sthaLa - A place of Victory. jayakartAnuM kALakrame jakArtAjAkArtA (inDoneziyAnuM pATanagara) thaI gayuM. jagyAkArtAmAM jagyA eTale 28 % pravAsa-darzana

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ayodhyA, jyAM yuddha na thAya te. kartA eTale nagarI. jogyAkArtA eTale zAntinI nagarI. ame jogyAkArtA pahoMcyA tyAre amAruM svAgata karavA amArA gAiDamitra hAjara hatA. emanuM nAma igneziyasa. teo suzikSita ane saMskArI hatA. jAte khristI hatA, paNa hiMdu, bauddha ane islAma dharmanI paNa sArI jANakArI dharAvatA hatA. emanI sAthe ame gADImAM borobudura pahoMcyA. citramAM joyelA maMdiranAM dUrathI sAkSAt darzana karatAM eka viziSTa anubhava thayo. ame dhanyatA anubhavI. maMdiranAM darzana to thayAM, paNa mArAthI upara caDAze ke kema te vize dahezata hatI, kAraNa ke Agale divase ja mane kamaramAM asahya dukhAvo UpaDyo hato. jevA ame gADImAMthI UtaryA ke ghaNAM badhAM pheriyA-pheriyaNa amane vIMTaLAI vaLyAM, potapotAnI vastuo vecavA mATe. citro, phoTAo, pustikAo, borobuduranA nAmavALAM TI-zarTa, skArpha, yAdagIrI mATenI cIjavastuo vagere kharIdavA mATe teo Agraha karavA lAgyAM. koIkane emAM trAsa lAge ane koIkane bhAvatAla karavAnI majhA Ave. pheriyAo pahelAM cArapAMca gaNo bhAva kahe ane pachI pAchaLa pAchaLa cAle ane bhAva ghaTADatA jAya. koI paNa vastumAM rasa batAvo athavA enA bhAva pUcho eTale te pheriyo keDo na mUke. amArA eka mitre zarTanA amastAM bhAva pUchyA. eTale e pheriyaNa bAI phalA~ga sudhI, TheTha maMdiranAM pagathiyAM sudhI pAchaLa pAchaLa satata bhAva bolatI-ghaTADatI AvI ane chevaTe nirAza thaI. igneziyasa sAthe mAsa mitro pagathiyAM caDavA lAgyA. meM kahyuM, 'tame jAo; mane kamaramAM darda che eTale mArAthI avAze to AvIza.' pachI manamAM zAnta citte prArthanA karI ane dhIme dhIme eka eka pagathiyuM caDavA lAgyo. dasa-bAra pagathiyAM caDatAM to kamarano dukhAvo jANe kiTTA karIne moDhuM pheravI gayo hoya evuM lAgyuM. pachI to mitronI sAthe huM thaI gayo ethI teone paNa AnaMda thayo. ame maMdiranA prathama pravezadvAra pAse AvI pahoMcyA. maMdira vize igneziyase sArI mAhitI ApI. borobuduranuM A maMdira IsavIsananA sAtamA-AThamA saikAmAM baMdhAyeluM che. I.sa. 732nA zilAlekhamAM zailendra vaMzanA bauddha dharmI rAjAonI nAmAvali che. Azare savAso phUTa UMcA, pacAsa hajAra corasa phUTamAM patharAyelA borobudu2 * 29

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A maMdiranI AkRti laMbacorasa prakAranI che. enA cAre khUNA barAbara cAre dizAmAM che. cArebAju vacce pravezadvAramAM dvArapAla tarIke siMhanAM moTAM pUtaLAM che. cAre daravAje caDavA-UtaravA mATe TheTha sudhI pahoLAM pagathiyAM che. A vistAramAM jvALAmukhI parvato hovAthI maMdiranA bAMdhakAmamAM jvALAmukhIno ja bhUkharo paththara vaparAyo che. maMdiramAM laMbacorasa ghaDelA evA vIsa lAkha paththarono upayoga thayo che e uparathI enI racanAnI vizALatA ane nakkaratAno khyAla Ave che. bAraso varSa pahelAM bauddha dharmanuM ativizALa bhavya maMdira ahIM thayuM e uparathI e kALe bauddha dharmano keTalo badho prabhAva ane pracAra A pradezamAM haze tenuM anumAna thaI zake che. borobudura zabda "bihAra' (vihAra) ane "behudura' e be zabdano banelo manAya che. "vihAra' eTale maMdira athavA maTha ane behudura' eTale DuMgara paranI sapATa jagyA. borobudura eTale DuMgara paranuM dhArmika sthaLa. ahIM eka zikhAlekhamAM e mATe "bhUmisaMbhAra' zabda prayojAyo che. borobudura maMdira hovA chatAM te praNAlikAgata maMdira nathI; vastutaH te stUpa che. stUpanA prakAranI te eka bhavya racanA che. maMdiromAM bhaktiprArthanAdi mATe vizALa khaMDa ke raMgamaMca hoya che tevuM borIbaMduramAM nathI. ahIM kyAMya mAthe chata nathI. AvI virATakAya imArata che chatAM ekasAthe so-baso mANasa palAMThI vALIne besI zake evI samacorasa ke laMbacorasa koI jagyA nathI. borobuduranA A sUpanI racanA "maMDalanA AdhAre karavAmAM AvI che. bauddha darzanavidyAne maMDala dvArA AkRtinA svarUpe darzAvAya che. A tUpanA pAyAnI AkRtimAM paNa tAMtrika rahasya raheluM che. * keTalAMka pagathiyAM caDI ame upara gayA to pradakSiNApatha ke bhamatI jevI racanA AvI. igneziyase samajAvyuM ke A pradakSiNApathamAM paNa vyavasthAkrama rahelo che. AvI khullI pahoLI cAra bhamatInI dIvAlomAM aMdaranI bAju ApaNe joI zakIe evuM bhArobhAra zilpakAma thayeluM che. emAM bauddha dharmagraMtho "lalita vistarA', "jAtaka' vageremAMthI vividha kathAprasaMge kotaravAmAM AvyA che. taduparAMta bodhisattvanA jIvanaprasaMgo, bhagavAna buddhanI vividha mudrAo vagere ghaNuMbadhuM emAM batAvavAmAM AvyuM che. ahIM cAra mALanI cAra pradakSiNApathanI dIvAlomAM Azare doDha hajAra jeTalI penala che ane darekano viSaya judo che. prathama pradakSiNApathamAM "kAmadhAtu' 30 % pravAsa-darzana

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avasthAnuM, bIjAmAM "rUpadhAtu' avasthAnuM ane trIjA- cothAmAM "arUpadhAtu' avasthAnuM nirUpaNa thayeluM che. rasa hoya, jANakArI hoya ane samayanI nirAMta hoya to abhuta AnaMdAnubhava karAvanArI emAM sAmagrI che. ame pahelA mALa ke gaDhanI "kAmadhAtu' nAmanI bhamatImAM pharIne bIjA mALe gayA, sthUla bhautika kAmabhoganA jIvanamAMthI sUkSma AdhyAtmika jIvana eTale ke, "arUpadhAta" sudhI javAnuM lakSya hovuM joIe. cAra maMDalarUpa cAra bhamatI pUrI karI ane upara pahoMcyA. tyAMnuM to dRzya ja kaMIka aneruM che. ATaluM caDatAM thAka nathI lAgato ane lAgyo hoya to ene haranArI havA AvI pahoMce che. cArebAju khullA AkAzamAM raheluM vAyumaMDaLa cittane prasannatAthI chalakAvI de che. ahIM stUponA pradezamAM ApaNe pravezIe chIe. ahIMnI racanA have laMbacorasa nahi paNa laMbavartuLanA prakAranI che. eka pachI eka evI caDatA krame traNa hAramAM botera moTA stUpa che. A botera sUpa samayanI ghaTamALanA pratIkarUpa che ema manAya che. anyatra jovA maLe tenA karatAM A stUponI lAkSaNikatA anokhI che. ahIM bauddha dharmanI zAkhAsamanvayanI bhAvanAnI abhivyakti thayelI che. bauddha dharmanI mukhya be zAkhA che : hInayAna ane mahAyAna. hInayAna zAkhA bhagavAnanI mUrti banAvavAmAM nathI mAnatI. te sUpamAM mAne che. mahAyAna mUrtimAM mAne che. ahIM stUpo che ane pratyeka stUpanI aMdara mUrti paNa che. A enI samanvayanI viziSTatA che. stUpanI aMdara mUrti hoya to enAM darzana kevI rIte thAya ? e mATe stUpanI dIvAlone jALI jevI karavAmAM AvI che. emAM coMkaTanA AkAranAM moTAM kANAM che. najIka jaIne emAMthI joIe to aMdara dhyAna buddhanAM darzana thAya. A caoNkaTa kANAM (kyAMka corasa kANAM paNa che) paNa kalAtmaka rIte karavAmAM AvyAM che. cAra cAra caoNkaTanAM laheriyAM che. nIce kamaLanI pAMdaDIovALA A stUponI vartuLAkAra goThavaNImAM koI sAMketika rahasya raheluM che. A traNa vartuLonI vacce vizALa, uttega kendrastha stUpa Avelo che. upara caDato caDato yAMtrika chevaTe A sarvocca madhyastha stUpanAM darzana karIne kRtArtha thaIne nIce Utare che. borobaramAM sUpomAM pradakSiNApathamAM ane bahAra gokhalAomAM bhagavAna buddhanI vajasattva buddha, vairocana buddha ane dhyAnI buddhanI ema maLIne kula 505 jeTalI pratimAo to traNasothI paNa ochI che. ATaluM badhuM naSTa thayuM hovA chatAM borobudura haju samRddha che. bAra saikA jeTalA borobudura 31

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kALapravAhamAM eNe ghaNI kaDavImIThI anubhavI che. eNe ajJAtavAsa paNa sevyo che. kheDUta ane enA khetara mATe jema kahevAya che ke mora (pakSIo) khAya, Dhora khAya, udara khAya, cora khAya toya peTa bharIne kheDUta khAya eTaluM anAja khetaramAM Uge. borIbaMdaranI keTalIye pratimAo vidharmIoe naSTa karI che, keTalIka coro uThAvI gayA che, keTalIka bIjAne bheTa ApI devAI che, keTalIka vIjaLI ke dharatIkaMpamAM naSTa thaI che to paNa yAtrikonuM haiyuM harakhAI jAya eTalI badhI pratimAo haju tyAM rahelI che. ema jANavA maLe che ke A maMdiranI pratiSThAvidhi thaI hatI tyAre sarvocca stUpanI aMdara bhagavAna buddhanI nakarA sonAnI nAnI pratimA padharAvavAmAM AvI hatI, paraMtu Daca zAsanakALa daramiyAna koIka Daca adhikArIe stUpamAM bAkoruM pADI e pratimA kADhI lIdhI hatI ane maMdiranI koIka jagyAnI paththaranI eka mUrti khaseDIne tyAM mUkI dIdhI hatI. bIjA eka Daca amaladAre keTalIka mUrtio ane kalAkRtio kaDhAvIne, nava gADAM bharIne siyAmanA rAjAne I.sa. 1896mAM bheTa ApI dIdhI hatI. lAge che ke yaMtra-taMtranA rahasya anusAra borobuduranA maMdirano nakazo taiyAra karavAmAM bauddha dharmaguruo ane ghaNAbadhA sthapati-zilpI kalAkAronI kalpanAzaktie kAma karyuM haze. maMdiranA sarjanamAM maulikatA, kalAtmaka sAmaMjasya ane dhArmika aucitya bhArobhAra rahelAM che, eTaluM ja nahi, ekasAthe aneka darzanArthIo Ave to emanI sukhethI avarajavara thaI zake evI vyavahAru dRSTi paNa emAM rahelI che. prAcIna kALamAM rAjyAzraya vinA AvAM bhavyAtibhavya dharmasthAnakonuM bAMdhakAma thaI na zake. ATalI bRhakAya imArata bAMdhatAM varSo lAgyAM haze e sunizcita che, paraMtu kayA rAjAne A maMdira bAMdhavAno bhAva thayo haze ane emane koNe preraNA ApI haze te viSe nizcitapaNe kazuM jANavA maLatuM nathI. ema manAya che ke doDha-be saikA sudhI borobuduranI jAhojalAlI barAbara jaLavAI haze, paraMtu pachI kaMIka evuM banatuM rahyuM haze ke jethI loko sthaLAMtara karI gayA haze. keTalIka aTakaLo thAya che. maMdira para musalamAnonAM AkramaNa tyAre haju cAlu thayAM nahotAM. saMbhava che ke pAse rahelo javALAmukhI phATyo hoya ke bhayaMkara dharatIkaMpa thayo hoya. maMdiranAM darzana karavA jatAM eka yuvAna rAjakumAranuM hRdaya baMdha paDatA avasAna thavAthI loko vahemAI gayA hoya athavA zailendra vaMzano aMta Avyo hoya. game tema, paNa borobuduranI paDatI cAlu thaI gaI. thoDA vakhatamAM to 32 9 pravAsa-darzana

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te eka nirjana sthaLa banI gayuM ane AsapAsa UgelAM jhADIjhAMkharAMmAM e avarajavara vinAnuM banI gayuM. saikAo sudhI te ajJAta rahyuM. borobuduranA astitvanI yatkiMcita jANakArI AsapAsanA grAmINa lokone rahyA karI haze, paNa ene 1814mAM ajavALAmAM lAvanAra hatA aMgreja gavarnara sTempharDa rAphelsa. emanA prayAsothI tyAM sAphasUphI ane marAmata thavA lAgI. enA yAtrA-pravAsa mATe suvidhAo vadhavA lAgI ane pharI pAchuM borobudura jIvatuM jAgatuM banI gayuM. inDoneziyAne svataMtratA maLyA pachI pahelA pramukha DaoN. sukarNanA prayAsathI yuneskoe ene AMtararASTriya smAraka tarIke svIkRti ApI ane enI jALavaNI mATe moTI rakama phALavI. tyArathI borobudurano punaruddhAra thayo. ahIM eka bodhivRkSa vAvavAmAM AvyuM ane dara vaizAkhI pUrNimA (bhagavAna buddhanA janma, jJAna ane nirvANano A eka ja divasa che)e ahIM meLo bharAya che, zobhAyAtrA nIkaLe che ane utsava thAya che. badhA ja emAM bhAga le che. jAvA eka evo TApu che ke jyAM hiMduo, bauddho, musalamAno ane khristIo sAthe saMpathI rahe che ane badhAnAM dharmasthAnako tyAM AvelAM che. AkAza bharIne UbheluM borobuduranuM mahAkAya maMdira joIne ame nIce UtaryA. tyAM to zarTa vecanArI pelI bAI mArA mitrane yAda rAkhIne doDatI AvI ane kharIdavA mATe karagaravA lAgI. ema karatAM te TheTha gADI sudhI AvI. gADImAM besatAM meM mitrane kahyuM, "ApaNane zarTanI jarUra nathI. paNa bhAva pUchyA che to ApaNe bicArIne paTAvavI joIe. A koI moTI visAta nathI." mitra mAnI gayA ane gADImAMthI nIce UtaryA, paNa eTalI vAramAM te bAI chevaTe nirAza thaIne giradImAM kyAM cAlI gaI te khabara na paDI. garIbonAM prArabdha paNa kevAM hoya che ! aMtarAyakarma kevuM kAma kare che ! borobuduranuM ArohaNa karatAM mArI kamarano dukhAvo pote evo gabharAI gayo ke pAchA pharavAnuM eNe nAma na lIdhuM. pavitra dharmasthAnakono prabhAva deha ane citta para kevo paDe che te mane jAte anubhavavA maLyuM, to pachI Atmika zakti khIlavavAmAM te moTuM nimitta kema na banI zake ? (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3) borobudura jha9 33

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5 bAlImAM besatuM varSa (inDoneziyA) pRthvInA pratyeka pradezamAM Rtucakrano navo AMTo eTale navuM besatuM varSa. enI vadhAmaNInI paraMparAmAM prajAbhede vaividhya rahevAnuM. emAM sAmAjika, dhArmika ityAdi mAnyatAo paNa saMlagna hovAnI. inDoneziyAnA bAlI TApumAM nUtana varSanI evI anokhI rIte ujavaNI thAya che ke tenI vAta sAMbhaLIne Azcaryacakti thavAya. koI ajANyo mANasa kahe to tarata te mAnyatAmAM na Ave. vastuta: samagra vizvamAM AvI gauravazALI paraMparA anyatra kyAMya nathI. bhAratIya hiMdu saMskRtinA avazeSarUpe tyAM jaLavAI rahelI A prAcIna paraMparA kharekhara abhimAna levA jevI che. prAcIna samayamAM bhAratIya saMskRti hiMdI mahAsAgaramAM zrIlaMkA, brahmadeza, siyAma (thAilaeNnDa), malAyA, jAvA, sumAtrA, bAlI vagere dezo sudhI phelAyelI hatI. e dezono bhArata sAtheno vyavahAra rAmAyaNanI kathA jeTalo prAcIna che ema kahI zakAya. 'bAlI' zabda rAmAyaNamAM AvatA sugrIvanA bhAI 'vAlI' u52thI Avyo hovAnuM manAya che. (bali arthAt naivedya uparathI paNa 'bAlI' zabda vyutpanna karAya che.) 'bAlI eTale hajAra hiMdu maMdirono deza', bAlI eTale 'tejomaya svargIya dvIpa', bAlI eTale 'vizvanuM prabhAta' - ema judI judI rIte bAlIne oLakhAvavAmAM Ave che. cotarapha samudrataTa, vacce DuMgaro, jvALAmukhIo, 34 * pravAsa-darzana

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DAMgaranAM khetaro, nadIo, saMtoSakAraka varasAda, bAre mAsa hariyALI ityAdine kAraNe bAlInuM naisargika saundarya nayanaramya che. bIjI bAju bAlInAM nRtya, saMgIta, zilpakaLA ityAdi suvidita che. bAlImAM Aje paNa rAmAyaNanI kathAno graMtha "serirAma' vaMcAya che ane enA AdhAre nATaka, nRtya vagere bhajavAya che. emAM vAnaronuM nRtya "kanjaka" (kacaka) suprasiddha che. madhyayugamAM musalamAno malAyAmAthI sumAtrA, jAvA tarapha AgaLa vadhatA gayA tema tema hiMduo khasatA gayA ane chevaTe vizALa bAlI TApumAM sthira thayA. hajAreka varSa pahelAM A badhA pradezomAM bauddha dharmano paNa sAro pracAra thayo hato, paNa pachI te bahu Takyo nahi. savA be hajAra corasa mAIlamAM vaselA bAlInI Azare pAMtrIsa lAkhanI vastImAM paMcANuM TakAthI vadhu loko hiMdu che, bAkInA musalamAna, khristI ke bauddhadharmI loko mukhyatve becAra moTAM zaheromAM che. bAlImAM zaka saMvata, caitrI paMcAMga cAle che. e pramANe caitra suda ekame tyAM navuM varSa bese che. phAgaNa vada amAsa e tyAM divALInA jevo divasa che, paNa te thoDo judI rIte UjavAya che. ame jyAre bAlInA pravAsanuM Ayojana karyuM tyAre te tArIkha pramANe karyuM hatuM, paraMtu amane khabara nahi ke tyAM vacce caitrI paDavAno divasa, navA varSanI rajAnA divasa tarIke UjavAze. amane eTalI khabara maLI hatI ke vacce eka divasa - silent day- zAntino divasa raheze. ame bAlInA erapaoNrTa DenapAsAramAM UtaryA tyAre amArA yajamAna yuvAMga sumAtra amane levA AvyA hatA. amAro utAro pAsenA phutA (Futa) nagaranI eka paMcatAraka hoTelamAM hato. bAlInI vAta nIkaLatAM yuvAMge kahyuM, "bAlImAM amArI sarakAra sAMskRtika jALavaNI mATe sabhAna che. moTA pahoLA rastAo, vAhanonI bhAre bhIDa, ghoMghATamaya avarajavara, uttuMga makAno, moTA moTA udyogo, moTI moTI hoTelo ityAdi vaDe duniyAmAM keTalAMka nagarone Adhunika banAvAya che. emAM samRddhi chalakAya che, paNa prajAnI vaiyaktika sAMskRtika vizeSatA osarI jAya che. amArA bAlImAM evI ronakane maryAdita rAkhavAmAM AvI che. ahIM rastAo bahu pahoLA nathI thavA dIdhA. raheThANonAM makAno beThA ghATanAM che. koIkamAM ja upara mALa levAyo haze. ahIM paMcatAraka hoTelone vadhumAM vadhu cAra mALa bAMdhavAnI paravAnagI apAya che." bAlImAM besatuM varSa H 35

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vaLI yuvAMge kahyuM, "bAlImAM atyAre "cepi" (Nyepi)nA utsavanI taDAmAra taiyArIo cAlI rahI che. "cepi' eTale navuM varSa. "hari rAyA' eTale moTo utsava. tamane "hari rAyA cepi'nA borDa Thera Thera jovA maLaze." hoTelamAM dAkhala thatAM ja laoNbImAM kendrasthAne eka moTuM vikarALa pUtaLuM hatuM. jANavA maLyuM ke jepinA utsava mATe A pUtaLuM hamaNAM mUkavAmAM AvyuM che. e daitya athavA asuranuM pUtaLuM che. aniSTa tattvanuM e pratIka che. ene ahIM loko "ogoha goha' kahe che. asuranI bhAratIya hiMdu vibhAvanA ahIM bAlImAM paNa e ja pramANe jovA maLe che. moDhuM khulluM hoya, thoDA moTA tIkSNa dAMta bahAra AvyA hoya, moTI moTI lAlacoLa AMkho hoya, cAra hAtha hoya ane hAthamAM zastra hoya, eka paga upADyo hoya evI bhayaMkara Akramaka AkRti kAgaLa, lAkaDAM vageremAMthI banAvavAmAM Ave che ane eno raMga paNa evo ja ghero rAkhavAmAM Ave che. ATha dasa ke bAreka phUTanAM AvAM bihAmaNAM pUtaLAM AkhA bAlImAM dareka gAma ke zaheramAM caoNka AgaLa rAkhavAmAM Ave che, kyAMka to ekasAthe betraNa "ogoha" goThavavAmAM AvyA hoya che. nagaro vacce "ogoha"nI spardhA thAya che. ane sArAmAM sArA "ogoha"ne nirNAyako inAma Ape che. nAnA chokarAo paNa potAno judo nAno "ogoha' banAve che. amAsanI baporathI samagra bAlImAM Thera Thera "ogoha goha"nuM saraghasa nIkaLe che. jADA vAMsanA pAMca-cha UbhA ane ADA dAMDAnI "ThAThaDI' upara ogohane Ubho goThavavAmAM Ave che. gAmanA pacIseka puruSo ene UMcakIne cAle che. keTalAka mANaso AgaLa mazAla laIne nIkaLe che ane nRtya karatA jAya che. loko DholanagArAM vagADe, ghaMTanAda kare, moTA moTA pokAro kare, zakya teTalo vadhu avAja asurane bivaDAvIne bhagADavA mATe kare che. ema karatAM karatAM teo gohane gAma bahAra nadIkinAre ke samudrakinAre laI jAya che. tyAM "ogohanI dahanakriyA thAya che, sUryAsta thatAM pahelAM daityane bALavAmAM Ave che. navuM varSa AvatAM pahelAM aniSTa tattvane vidAya ApavAmAM Ave che. tyAra pachI puruSo snAna karI, zuddha thaIne nagaramAM vAjategAjate pAchA phare che. ApaNe tyAM dazerAnA divase jema rAvaNanA pUtaLAne bALavAmAM Ave che tema ahIM navA varSanA Agamana pUrve aniSTa tattvane vidAya ApavAnA pratIka tarIke seMkaDo "ogoha'ne bALavAmAM Ave che. yuvAMge kahyuM ke "cepinA parva pahelAM "melAsti' nAmanI dharmakriyA 37 ja pravAsa-darzana

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karavAmAM Ave che. emAM loko sarvazaktimAna IzvaranI pUjA-arcanA, stuti vagere karIne, devadevIonI mUrtio laIne zobhAyAtrAmAM nIkaLe che. dareka gAmanA cokamAM pUjAvidhi thAya che, naivedya dharAya che. pachI maMdiranAM devadevInI mUrtio tathA upakaraNone moTI pAlakhImAM laI jaIne nadI ke samudranA pANImAM zuddha karAya che, kAraNa ke samudranA (jalanA) devatA varuNa che ane varuNa te zivanA avatAra che ema ahIM manAya che. varuNadeva badhAM aniSTa tattvone nirmaLa kare che." hoTelamAM asuranA vikarALa pUtaLAnI bAjumAM borDa upara moTA akSare chApIne caeNpi vizenI mAhitI tathA e divase hoTelamAM zuM zuM baMdha raheze e vizenI sUcanAo lakhavAmAM AvI hatI. ame rUmamAM sAmAna mUkI svastha thaI laoNbImAM AvyA. baoNrDanI vigato samajAvatAM yuvAMge kahyuM, bAlIvAsI hiMduo pAMca prakAranA yajJamAM mAne che : devayajJa, manuSyayajJa, RSiyajJa, pitRyajJa ane bhUtayajJa. caeNpinA divasomAM mukhyatve bhUtayajJa thAya che. cepinA utsava mATe je cAra mukhya niyamo pALavAmAM Ave che te A pramANe che : (1) AmATI lelugAna (loluhAna) - eTale gharanI bahAra na javuM. avarajavara na karavI. (2) AmATI kAryA - eTale koI kArya karavuM nahi. nokarI dhaMdho karavAM nahi. haLavA maLavAnAM vyAvahArika kAryo na karavAM. gharamAM paNa anivArya hoya teTalI ja pravRtti karavI. te divase maMdire na jatAM gharamAM ja prArthanAbhakti karI levI. (3) AmATI ageni (agni) - eTale agni pragaTAvavo nahi. gharamAM rasoI vagere mATe agni saLagAvavo nahi. vastuta: te divase rasoI karavI nahi. mINabattI saLagAvavI nahi. telano dIvo karavo nahi. Torca ke lAiTa vAparavI nahi. vIjaLIthI cAlatAM koI sAdhano vAparavAM nahi. nAnAM bALako ke vRddha-azakta mATe khAvAnuM anivArya hoya to Agale divase banAvI levAnuM, zakya hoya tyAM sudhI upavAsa karavAno. (4) AmATI lolAMgavAna - eTale AnaMdapramodanI koI pravRtti karavI nahi. TI.vI. na jovAya, pAnAM na ramAya, dArU na pivAya, gIta-nRtyAdi na thAya, vAjiMtra na vagADAya. brahmacaryanuM pAlana karavAnuM." bAlImAM besatuM varSa 37

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A badhA to bahu kaDaka niyamo kahevAya. zuM badhA enuM barAbara pAlana kare ?' ame prazna karyo. "bilakula; khAvAnI bAbatamAM jenAthI na rahevAya te chUTa le, paNa evA loko ochA, ahIM evA paNa loko che ke chatrIsa kalAka khAya nahi eTaluM ja nahi, pANI sudhdhAM pIe nahi. avarajavaranI bAbatamAM pahelAM erapaoNrTa, baMdaro ane hoTelone chUTa apAtI hatI, paraMtu pravAsIone lAvavA - laI javAmAM Akho divasa avarajavara rahetI. e nimitte sTAphanA ane bIjA mANasone paNa chUTa ApavI paDatI. keTalAka chUTa laI letA. cepi jevuM lAge nahi. have lagabhaga chatrIsa kalAka eraporTa ane baMdaro sadaMtara baMdha rahe che. hoTelonI bahAra koI jaI zake nahi. hoTelomAM rUma sivAya bIjI badhI lAITa baMdha rAkhavI paDe. have to eraporTa ane hoTelonA karmacArIo paNa jopimAM bhAga laI zake che.' ATalo lAMbo vakhata loko gharamAM kare zuM ? kaMTALI na jAya ?' "nA. eTalo samaya loko gharamAM paNa saMpUrNa mauna pALe. prabhunuM dhyAna dhare. manana-ciMtana kare. potAnA doSonuM avalokana kare. kAraNa vagara gharamAM UThabesa ke avarajavara na kare. anivArya hoya to izArAthI kAma kare. ghaNuM ja kaThina che, paNa loko pUrI zraddhApUrvaka ene mATe manathI taiyAra hoya che. eka kare eTale bIjA kare, ema paraspara prabhAva paDe che. chUTa lenAranI TIkA- nidA thAya che. keTalAka gharamAM thoDI chUTa letA haze, paNa gharanI bahAra to koI ja na nIkaLe.' - cepinuM AvuM varNana sAMbhaLI ame e divasanI utsukatApUrvaka rAha jovA lAgyA. amArI hoTelanA ghaNA pravAsIo vidAya thavA lAgyA. chatrIsa kalAka hoTelamAM purAI rahevuM paDe evuM keTalAkane na game ke na posAya, paraMtu amArI jema keTalAka pravAsIo cepi mATe ja rokAyA hatA. ame jopino divasa Ave te pahelAM bAlImAM AsapAsanA pradezomAM pharyA, vividha prakAranAM nRtyo joyAM, maMdiromAM darzana karyA. bAlIe potAnA sAMskRtika vArasAne sArI rIte jALavI rAkhyo che. e badhAMno vigate abhyAsa karavo hoya to ghaNo samaya joIe. - bAlInAM judAM judAM nagaromAM pharatAM enI keTalIka lAkSaNikatAo nihALavA maLI. thoDe thoDe aMtare. maMdira to hoya ja. pepinA divasomAM ghera ghera reMjore (Penjore)nI racanA karavAmAM AvI hatI. pejare eTale vAMsanI banAvelI AkRti. dareka gharanA AMgaNAmAM jamInamAM khADo khodIne 38 pravAsa-darzana

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emAM pAMdaDIo sAtheno vAMsano sUko dAMDo Ubho karavAmAM Ave che. eno uparano pAtaLo cheDo DhaLelo hovo joIe. DhaLavAne kAraNe vAMsanI AkRti parvata jevI dekhAya. e meru parvata che. bAlIvAsIo meru parvatane pavitra mAne che. parvanA divasomAM ghera ghera AvI paeNjorenI racanA jovA maLe. keTaleka ThekANe UMcA raMgaberaMgI paeNjore paNa banAvavAmAM Ave che. vAMsanA dAMDAmAM vacce gokhalA jevI eka AkRti vAMsanI cIpamAMthI banAvavAmAM Ave che. emAM devadevIne ardhvarUpe phUla, phaLa vagere dharAvAya che. amAsanA divase amArI icchA uttara dizAmAM dUra Avelo kitAmanano jvALAmukhI ane tenI pAse AveluM sarovara jovAnI hatI. amArA DrAivare kahyuM, "bapore cAra vAgatAM sudhImAM ApaNe pAchA AvI javuM joIe. pachI loko rastA upara ja pUjAvidhi karavA besI jaze. te vakhate tyAMthI gADI pasAra thavA nahi de." DrAivaranI bhalAmaNa pramANe ame savAre nIkaLI gayA. khAsuM aMtara hatuM. Akhe raste nAnAMmoTAM gAmo AvatAM hatAM. phaLadrupa pradeza ane gAmaDAMonA naisargika vAtAvaraNanI maheka anubhavAtI hatI. prajA garIba paNa mAyALu hatI. cIjavastuo vecavAvALA karagare ane jaladI pIcho choDe nahi. eTale vastunI jarUra na hoya to paNa khaTAvavAnuM mana thAya. ame kiMtAmanIthI pAchA pharatA hatA tyAM meMgavI nAmanuM gAma AvyuM. amArI gADI UbhI rahI gaI. AgaLa traNa gADI hatI. DrAivare UtarIne tapAsa karIne kahyuM, "A lokoe be miniTa pahelAM ja rasto baMdha karI dIdho che. ahIM bahu vahelI pUjAvidhi cAlu karI che. have eka kalAka thobhavuM paDaze. chUTako nathI.' "jo rAha jovAnI ja hoya to pachI gADImAM besI rahevA karatAM A lokonI pUjAvidhi kema na joIe ?' ame badhA gADImAMthI UtarIne rastAnI eka bAjue UbhA rahI gayA. eka cheDe "ogoha gohanAM lAla, lIlo ane vAdaLI ema gherA raMganAM traNa moTAM pUtaLAM hatAM. bIje cheDe devadevIonuM maMdira hatuM. gAmamAMthI mahilAo ane puruSo sarasa navAM vastro paherIne AvI rahyAM hatAM. puruSoe sapheda aMgarakhuM, kesarI athavA sapheda "saroMga" (kamare paheravAnuM luMgI jevuM vastro paheryA hatAM. mAthe sapheda paTTo bAMdhyo hato. badhA ughADe page hatA. teo rastAnI eka bAju traNa hAramAM goThavAyA. bIjI bAju mahilAoe AchA pILA raMganuM uparanuM vastra, kesarI raMganuM saroMga paheryuM hatuM ane bAlImAM besatuM varSa - 39

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kamare raMgIna paTTo bAMdhyo hato. mahilAoe potAne mastake rAkhelo naivedyano karaMDiyo maMdira pAse hArabaMdha goThavyo. mahilAo ane puruSonI vacce dharmagurunI UMcI beThaka hatI. dharmagurue mAthe mugaTa dhAraNa karyo hato. - naivedyanA vAMsanA TopalAmAM sapharajana, saMtarAM vagere phaLo vartuLAkAre hAranI upara hAra ema goThavyAM hatAM. ATalAM badhAM phaLa paDI na jAya e mATe aMdarathI aNIdAra saLI bharAvIne te joDI rAkhavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. phaLonI hAranI Toca upara vAMsanI cholelI pAtaLI paTTIonI paMkhA jevI kalAtmaka racanA karavAmAM AvI hatI. darekanA naivedya-karaMDakanuM suzobhana juduM juduM hatuM. jethI ATalAM badhAM ekasarakhAM karaMDakamAM dareka potAnuM naivedya oLakhI zake. jopinA A utsavamAM badhI ja sAmagrI potAnAM khetaravADImAMthI ANelI hoya eTale kharcALa kazuM ja nahi. bhagavAnanI mUrtinI sanmukha uccAsane beThelA dharmagurue pUjAvidhi cAlu karI. maMtroccAra thayA. naivedya dharAvAyAM. thoDI vAra pachI eka pAtramAM jaLa lAvavAmAM AvyuM. dharmagurue maMtro bhaNIne e jaLa (tIrtha) potAnA sahAyaka paMDitane ApyuM. e jaLamAM eka saLI sAthe bAMdhelI vAMsanI pAMdaDIo boLIboLIne paMDite prathama puruSo upara ane pachI mahilAo upara chaMTakAva karyo. dharmagurunA AzIrvAda jhIlavA mATe chaMTakAva thAya tyAre saue potAnI baMne khullI hatheLI khabhA pAse rAkhI hatI. devadevIone prasanna karavAnI bIjI keTalIka vidhi thaI. vidhi pUrNa thatAM mahilAoe eka pachI eka UbhA thaI potAnAM naivedya-karaMDaka sAthe lIdhAM ane ghara tarapha prayANa karyuM. puruSo paNa UbhA thayA, have puruSonuM kAma gohane bALavA laI javAnuM hatuM. A rIte cepinI dharmavidhi amane pratyakSa jovA maLI. svayaMsevakoe rasto khullo karyo eTale amArI gADI AgaLa vadhI. rastAmAM sAMgeha nAmanA sthaLe ame rokAyA. ahIM jaMgalanI vacce eka prAcIna maMdira che. tyAM aneka vAMdarA hovAthI enuM nAma ja "vAnara maMdira' (Monkey Temple) paDI gayuM che. tyAM vAMdarA uparAMta vRkSa upara UMdhe mAthe laTakatI vAgoLa paNa ghaNI che. TikiTa laI ame cogAnanA pravezadvAramAM dAkhala thayA. amArI sAthe eka karmacArI chokarI AvI, khAsa to eTalA mATe ke vAMdarAo amane satAve nahi. vAMdarAne khavaDAvavA ame biskiTa lIdhAM. mArA mitrone vAMdarA pAse jatAM Dara lAgato hato. meM eka pachI eka biskiTa khavaDAvavA cAlu karyA. ApaNe jamaNA hAthamAM biskiTa dharIe 40 pravAsa-darzana

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eTale vAMdaro pAse AvIne sau pahelAM ApaNo DAbo hAtha pakaDI rAkhe, rakhene ApaNe chaTakI jaIe ke bIjuM kazuM ene karIe evI zaMkAthI. pachI jamaNA hAthamAMthI biskiTa laIne khAya. vAMdarA bahu catura ane jabarA hoya che. vizvAsa bese to premALa hoya che. enI AMgaLIono sparza mulAyama che ke tIkSaNa nahorano che enA parathI enA saMvedananI khAtarI thAya che. - ame cAlatA hatA tevAmAM amArAthI thoDe AgaLa cAlatI eka yuropiyana yuvatInA khabhA upara vAMdaro pAchaLathI acAnaka kUdIne caDI beTho. yuvatI gabharAIne cIsAcIsa karatI doDavA lAgI, paNa vAMdaro thoDo nIce Utare ? enI sAthe cAlatI karmacArI chokarIe khAvAnuM ApIne vAMdarAne nIce utAryo. meM mArI pAsenAM badhAM biskiTa vAMdarAone khavaDAvI dIdhAM. ame maMdira tarapha AgaLa cAlatA hatA tyAM acAnaka pAchaLathI mArA khabhA upara paNa eka moTo vAMdaro caDI beTho. huM gabharAyo nahi, paNa AvI ghaTanA ociMtI bane eTale stabdha thaI javAya. have vAMdarAne nIce kevI rIte utAravo ? pakaDIne utAravA jatAM rakhene baTakuM bhare ke nahora mAre. tyAM to mArI sAthe cAlatI chokarIe kahyuM, "sara, sara, beya hatheLI pahoLI khullI karI nAkho." beya hatheLI khullI karI nAkhI ke tarata vAMdaro ApoApa nIce UtarI gayo. chokarIe samajAvyuM ke jyAM sudhI vAMdarAne ema lAge ke ApaNI pAse khAvAnuM che tyAM sudhI pIcho na choDe. na Apo to khabhA para caDI jAya. paNa beya hatheLI khullI batAvo to samajI jAya ke khAvAnuM khalAsa thaI gayuM che, eTale cAlyo jAya, maMdiranAM darzana karI sAMje cAreka vAgye ame amArI hoTela para pAchA AvI gayA. tyAM lobImAM gherA gulAbI raMganAM ekasarakhAM vastra paherIne ghaNA mANaso ekatra thayA hatA. keTalAka paricita caherA jotAM ja khabara paDI ke A to badhA hoTelanA ja karmacArIo che. laoNbImAM kendrasthAne rAkhavAmAM AvelA "ogohane utArIne, vAMsaDA para goThavIne, gAtAM- nAcatAM teo bahAra laI gayA. emanA gayA pachI hoTelamAM ekadama zAnti prasarI gaI, jANe bolakaNA mANasane mUMgA besavAno vakhata Avyo. ame rUmamAM besI bhojana karIne pAchA nIce UtaryA. aMdhAruM thavA AvyuM hatuM. rastA paranI badhI avarajavara baMdha thaI gaI. badhuM sUmasAma lAgavA mAMDyuM. ame hoTelanA jhAMpe jaI baMne bAjunI zerIomAM najara bAlImAM besatuM varSa eka 41

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nAkhI to badhuM ja baMdha hatuM. je pinA utsavamAM koI bArIbAraNAM ughADAM na rAkhe. evAmAM eka sAikala upara koI svayaMsevaka pasAra thayo. eNe amane aMdara cAlyA javA mATe hAthathI vinayapUrvaka izAro karyo. ene mAna ApavA ame tarata aMdara AvI gayA. have aMdhAruM vadhatuM jatuM hatuM. hoTelamAM laoNbI, peseja vageremAM kyAMya lAiTa nahotI. rUmamAM lAiTanI chUTa hatI, paNa paDadA rAkhavA paDe ke jethI jarA paNa prakAza bahAra na jAya. ame rUmamAM besI ArAma karyo. amAsanI aMdhArI rAta hatI. AvA nibiDa aMdhakAramAM bAlIno vizALa dvIpa vilIna thaI gayo. AkhA divasanA pravAsano thAka hato eTale ame paNa vahelA nidrAdhIna thayA. savAre bAlImAM besatA varasanuM prabhAta UgyuM. paNa bAlIe azabda svAgata sivAya kazuM ja karavAnuM nahotuM. cArebAju mAtra saghana nIravatA hatI. evI nIravatA to jiMdagImAM kyAreya anubhavI nathI. saMcArabaMdhI (karaphyu) vakhate paNa nahi. bAlI TApunA savAbe hajAra corasa mAIlanA vistAramAM nAnAMmoTAM ekasothI vadhu gAma-nagaramAM Azare trIsa lAkha jeTalA loko svecchAe mauna, zAnti ane avarajavara vagaranA divasanuM ane caitrI pratipadAnI aMdhakAramaya ni:zabda rAtrinuM parva saMyama, zista, niSThA ane zraddhAthI Ujave e ApaNI dharatI paranI advitIya ghaTanA gaNAya. ame paNa hoTelanI rUmamAM e divasa sAmAyika, jApa, dhyAnamAM pasAra karyo. rAtre bAlkanImAMthI bahAra joyuM to nibiDa tamistranA AvaraNa heThaLa bAlInuM caitanya ullAsathI dhabakI rahyuM hatuM. mAtra prakAzita hatAM AkAzanA tArAnakSatro - maghA, phAlganI, citrA, vizAkhA vagere. bAlImAM pi pachIno bIjo divasa "labuha vrata' tarIke UjavAya che. loko navA varSa mATe paraspara abhivAdana kare che ane AgalA varSanA potAnA doSo mATe kSamAyAcanA karI vizuddha thaI navA varSamAM praveza kare che. bhAratIya saMskRtinuM e lakSaNa che. vizvazAMti mATe bAlIno caeNpi eTale ke navA varSano utsava saune mATe preraka, bodhaka ane anukaraNIya che. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3) 42 jhaH pravAsa-darzana

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JRAIN ONA RUNES 1967mAM paradezano prathama pravAsa - jApAna jatAM ramaNabhAI. eraporTa para sahu svajano pitAjI, sAsu-sasarA, bhAIo, bhAbhIo, bahena-banevI, bALako, mitro vagere sAthe. dakSiNa bhAratamAM saMrakSaka devanI mUrtinA caraNomAM.

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rAjasthAnamAM UMTa para savArI, zailajA - cetanabhAI, ramaNabhAI, tArAbahena, gArgI. dIvanA dariyA kinAre ramaNabhAI, tArAbahena, gArgI, kaivalya.

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CORE BLIND CHARITY TO CHO CUIDE DOCS TOTAL laMDana najIka aMdhajano mATe phALo UgharAvatI vyakti tenI haeNTa para bilADI, haiTanI kinArI para doDatA uMdaro, eka khabhA para kabUtara, paga pAse kUtaro, moDhA para daivI smita prANImaitrInA A pratIkane prasanna citte nihALatAM ramaNabhAI - tArAbahena. laMDana najIka sTonahenja nihALatA ramaNabhAI. prAgaaitihAsika kALanA sthApatya kalAnA viralA avazeSo. (pASANayuganuM maMdira)

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nyujhilenDamAM milpharDasAunDa jovA jatAM 'milpharDa hevana" nAmanI sTImaramAM ramaNabhAI ane tArAbahena. osTreliyAmAM rAkezabhAI ane ramaNabhAI

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"TOP OF THE WORLD" BARROW alAskAmAM beromAM yu. esa. e.nA dhvaja najIka ramaNabhAI. uttara dhruva, alAskAmAM, eskimonagarI 'bero'mAM ramaNabhAI - tArAbahena.

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R jApAnamAM prisIzana TulsanI phekTarInI mulAkAta (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - 1mAM 'pagarakhAM goThavanAra'mAM AlekhAyelI vyakti sAthe jApAnamAM bhAratanA ane jApAnanA dhvaja vacce pRthvI rAkhI ramaNabhAIne sanmAna ApatA jApAnI mitro.

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raziyAmAM "yAsnAyA poliyAnA'mAM TaoNlsToyanI kabara para phUla caDAvatA ramaNabhAI raziyAmAM 'olimpIksa'nI ramata jotA oDiyansamAM beThelA ramaNabhAI.

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1979tmAM sAutha amerikAmAM perumAM macchapicchamAM InkA-saMskRtinA avazeSo nihALatAM ge ramaNabhAI - tArAbena. GIA PES brAjhilamAM sugaralopha mAunTana para jhUlatI khurazI para ramaNabhAI, tArAbena. brAjhilIyAnA carca pAse.

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pAsAna-hAmano dhodha (philipAInsa) pesephika mahAsAgaramAM philipAinsa e bAra mukhya TApuo ane bIjA seMkaDo nAnA nAnA TApuo (kula 7107 TApuo)no banelo khetIpradhAna deza che. speniza lokoe tyAM lagabhaga cAraso varSa rAjya karyuM. pachI AvyA amerikano. bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate jApAne teno kabajo lIdho. amerikAe te choDAvyo. tyAra pachI philipAinsa svataMtra rASTra banyuM che. philipAinsanI prajA ekaMdare garIba che. mukhyatve te khristI dharma pALe che. philipAInsamAM ATha judI judI bhASAo bolAya che, jemAM tagaloga mukhya che. enI rASTrabhASA philipino che. mAtRbhASA ane rASTrabhASA uparAMta ghaNA loko aMgrejI paNa sArI rIte jANe che. philipAinsanuM havA khAvAnuM suprasiddha sthaLa te bAgiyo che. lagabhaga cha hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe te AveluM che. mArA bhAI bharatabhAI sAthe huM tyAM gayo hato. tyAM be divasa ame haryApharyA. have amAro kAryakrama moTararaste manilA jaI pAssAna-jAna-hAma (athavA pAmmAna-hAma)no dhodha jovA javAno hato. philipAinsamAM AvelA A prapAtanuM darzana e pravAsIo mATe aneruM AkarSaNa gaNAya che. manilA pahoMcI ame eka TUrisTa kaMpanInI TUramAM te mATe nAma noMdhAvI dIdhAM. enA dara thoDA moMghA hatA, paraMtu hoTelamAMthI amane laI jAya ane hoTelamAM pAchAM pahoMcADe tyAM sudhInI badhI vyavasthA TUrisTa pAgyAna-hAmano dhodha 49 43

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kaMpanInI hatI. emAM cA-nAsto, baporanuM khANuM, hoDIbhADuM, Teipa vagerenA paisA paNa AvI jatA hatA. pAmsAna-hAmano dhodha jovA mATe savAre nIkaLIe to sAMje hoTela upara samayasara pAchAM AvI pahoMcAya. manilAthI Asare sittara kilomITaranuM aMtara che. nizcita samaye amane teDavA mATe basa AvI pahoMcI. yuropiyana, amerikana, cInI, jApAnI, maleziyana vagere lagabhaga paccIseka pravAsIo ame hatA. manilA zahera choDI amArI basa eksapresa rastA upara AvI pahoMcI. philipAinsa jevA nAnA deze paNa potAnA gajA pramANe, yuropa ane amerikAnI jema, vAhano mATe pacAsa ke so kilomITara jeTalA lAMbA AvA thoDAka eksapresa rastAo banAvyA che. keTalIka vAre amArI eksapresa rasto choDI nAnakaDAM gAmaDAMonA sAMkaDA rastAomAMthI pasAra thavA lAgI. khullA AkAza nIce nAnAM nAnAM jhUMpaDAMo, nALiyerInAM vRkSo ane cokhAnAM khetarovALo A hariyALo pradeza ApaNA govA ke kerAlAnA evA grAmapradezanI yAda apAve. amArI basa eka nadI pAse AvI pahoMcI. tyAM kinArA upara eka moTI paNa gAmaThI lAge evI hoTela hatI. amArA gAIDe kahyuM, "ahIM nadImAM hoDImAM besI dhodha sudhI tamAre javAnuM che. tame sau cA-pANI laIne jaI zako cho. tame pAchA Avazo tyAre bhojana taiyAra haze. hoDIno cArja ame bharI dIdho che. paraMtu hoDIvALAne tamAre dasa peso [philipAinsanuM calaNa; eka peso (Peso) eTale ApaNo lagabhaga eka rUpiyo] Tipa ApavAnI raheze. ahIMno e dhAro che." A sAMbhaLatAM ja amArAmAMnA thoDAka pravAsIoe kacavATa vyakta karyo. temaNe kahyuM, "TipanA ATalA badhA paisA hoya ? vaLI ame TUranA paisA pUrA bharyA che. emAM TipanA paisA paNa AvI jAya che. amAre jo e judA ApavAnA hoya to tamAre amane pahelethI kahevuM joItuM hatuM. amArI sAthe AvelA eka cInI pravAsIe to Tipa ApavAno bedhaDaka InkAra karI dIdho. TipanI rakama nAnI na hatI eTale ja A rakajhaka thaI. chevaTe gAIDe kahyuM, "bhale, tamane ThIka lAge to Apajo; nahi to huM tenI vyavasthA karI laIza." vaLI gAIDe kahyuM, "dhodha sudhI javAmAM kapaDAM bhIMjAI jAya che, mATe ochAmAM ochAM kapaDAM paherIne jajo. pAchAM pharatAM bhInAM kapaDe tamAre basano pravAsa karavo na paDe eTalA mATe A sUcanA che. jarUra lAge 44 gaka pravAsa-darzana

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to ahIM hoTelamAM svimiMga komyuma bhADe maLe che. te laI zako cho. tamArI ghaDiyALa hoTelanA lokaramAM mUkIne jajo. tamArA kemerA mATe hoTela taraphathI tamane plAsTikanI kothaLI ApavAmAM Avaze. e jarUra lejo, nahi to tamAro kemero bhIMjAI jaze." hoTelamAM kapaDAM badalavA mATe judA moTA oraDA hatA. tyAM kapaDAM mATe ane ghaDiyALa, paisA vagerenuM jokhama rAkhavA mATe lokaranI khAsa vyavasthA rAkhavAmAM AvI hatI. vaLI tyAM madada karavA mATe nokaro UbhelA hatA. amane pahelethI khabara hatI eTale ame amAruM potAnuM svimiMga kaoNTyUma sAthe laI lIdhuM hatuM. te paherIne ame cAlyAM. ughADA zarIre, ughADA page ame thoDAM pagathiyAM UtarI nadInA kinAre gayAM. amArAmAMnAM keTalAMkane nadIno zAMta pravAha joI bUTa ke kapaDAM kADhavAnuM ThIka na lAgyuM. keTalAMke hAthe ghaDiyALa paNa paherI rAkhI, voTaraprUpha che ema kahIne. koIkane kemerA mATe plAsTikanI kothaLI levAmAM vadhAre paDatI cIkAza lAgI. nadIkinAre raMgaberaMgI caTApaTAvALI so-savAso khAlI hoDIo pANImAM hArabaMdha UbhelI hatI. eka pachI eka hoDI pagathiyAM pAse Ave eTale be athavA vadhumAM vadhu traNa pravAsIne emAM besADavAmAM AvatAM. strIone judI hoDImAM besADavAmAM AvatI, sivAya ke pati- patnI sAthe javA IcchatAM hoya. jADA-pAtaLAne lakSamAM rAkhIne besADAtAM, jethI hoDImAM bhAra vadhI na jAya. hoDI bharAya ke tarata cAle. huM ane mArA bhAI bharatabhAI eka hoDImAM beThA. amArI sAthe pelA cInI sajjanane besADavAmAM AvyA. temaNe potAnAM kapaDAM paherI rAkhyAM hatAM. hoDI chIcharI, sAMkaDI ane sapATa hatI. temAM koI beThako karavAmAM AvI nahotI. hoDInA baMne cheDe eka eka nAvika hato. vacamAM nIce amAre besavAnuM hatuM, paNa bahu vicitra rIte dareka besanAre potAnA beya paga pahoLA karI hoDInI baMne bAjue aDe e rIte AkhA lAMbA karavAnA hatA, jANe vyAyAmanA vargamAM ame dAkhala thayA. bIjA mANase paNa e rIte pahoLA paga rAkhIne pahelA mANasanA khoLAmAM jANe beThA hoya teTalA aDoaDa besavAnuM hatuM. e ja rIte trIjA mANase paNa. amArI hoDI pANImAM sarakavA lAgI. vAtAvaraNa zItala ane khuzanumA hatuM, paNa nAviko ghaDIe ghaDIe sarakhA na besavA mATe amArA para ciDAtA. prakRtisaundarya nihALatAM AnaMda thato hato, paNa amArAM zarIra pAgyAna-hAmano dhodha ja 45

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thoDI vAramAM ja akaLAvA lAgyAM hatAM. jakaDAyelA jamaNA pagane jarAka ArAma ApavA meM ghuMTaNathI saheja UMco karyo. eTalAmAM hoDI hAlakaDolaka thaI, eka bAju namI paDI. aMdara thoDuM pANI bharAI gayuM. amArA koMgyuma bhIMjAyAM. ame hoDIvALA upara ciDAyA. te amArA upara ciDAyo. tenI bhAMgItUTI aMgrejI parathI amane samajAyuM ke vAMka mAro ja hato. paga UMco karavAne lIdhe ja hoDIe samatolapaNuM gumAvyuM hatuM. baMne hoDIvALAe hoDImAM bharAyeluM pANI halesAM vaDe ghaDIkamAM ulecI kADhyuM. rojanA mahAvarAne lIdhe ja ATalI badhI temanI jhaDapa hatI. zarUAtamAM amane thayuM ke hoDIvALo khoTo ciDAyA kare che, paraMtu have amane khAtarI thaI ke eka paNa pravAsI potAno paga saheja paNa UMco kare to tarata ja hoDI eka bAju namI paDatI; hoDImAM pANI bharAI jatuM ane DUbI javAnuM jokhama UbhuM thatuM. pachIthI to amane thayuM ke bhale phAve nahi ane akaLAI javAya topaNa paga sIdhA rAkhavAmAM ja amArI salAmatI hatI. nadImAM sAme pravAhe amArI hoDI cAlatI hatI, eTale nAviko jorajorathI halesAM mAratA hatA. jema jema ame AgaLa gayA tema tema nadIno pravAha sAMkaDo thato gayo. baMne kinAre UMcI bhekhaDo AvavA lAgI. nadInAM pANI chIcharAM thatAM gayAM. ame sAme najara karI to dekhAyuM ke nadIno pravAha vacce thaIne dhasamasato vaheto Avato hato. ame mAnyuM ke have page cAlIne javAnuM haze, kAraNa ke khaDako vaccethI haDI cAlI zake evo saMbhava nahoto. paraMtu amArA Azcarya vacce hoDI khaDako vaccethI jalamArga karatI vAMkIcUMkI cAlavA lAgI. nadInA chIcharA ane sAMkaDA paTamAM hoDI haMkAravAnI hoDIvALAnI kaLA kaMIka anokhI ja hatI. baMne nAviko ekabIjAne sUcanA ApatA jAya ane te pramANe hoDI kSaNe kSaNe vaLAMka letI jAya. hoDI je bAju jarAka name ke tarata te bAjuno nAvika pANImAM kUdI paDe ane hAtha vaDe hoDIne sIdhI kare. kamara ke ghUMTaNa sudhI chIcharuM pANI hoya eTale pANImAM kUdI paDavAnuM tene phAve. kaI jagyAe pANI keTaluM UMDuM haze tenA te jANakAra hatA. keTalIka vakhata nAviko eka kSaNamAM pANImAM paDe, ane bIjI kSaNe to hoDImAM pAchA AvI gayA hoya. kyAreka pAchA AvatAMnI sAthe jarUra paDe to tarata bIjI bAju kUdI paDyA hoya. koIka vakhata hoDIne vaLAMka ApavA ke bhaTakAtI aTakAvavA UbhA UbhA eka paga bahAra laMbAvI pAse AvelA khaDaka upara Tekave. koI vakhata halesuM hAthamAM UMdhuM pakaDI 47 pravAsa-darzana

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eno dAMDo khaDaka upara TekavI enI sahAyathI hoDIne dhakko mAre. koIka vakhata te hoDInI kinAra upara eka cheDethI bIje cheDe doDI jatA. A temanI kriyA eTalI jhaDapathI banatI ke jANe teo doraDA upara naTano khela na karI rahyA hoya ! koI vakhata jANe teo nartana karI rahyA hoya tevA bhAsatA. koIka vakhata ApaNI najara sAme jANe saMtAkUkaDI ramI rahyA hoya eTalI jhaDapatI eka bAjuthI bIjI bAju teo kUdI jatA. jema jema ame AgaLa gayA tema tema thoDe thoDe aMtare hoDIne UMce caDhAvavAnuM paNa banatuM. pAchaLano nAvika nIce pANImAM kUdI paDI nAvane UMcI karato. jyAM caDhANa vadhAre paDatuM hoya tyAM ane hoDI potAnI meLe caDhI zake ema na hoya evI jagyAe jhADanuM ekAda thaDa ke moTo paththara ke jADo saLiyo pANImAM ADo rAkhavAmAM Avyo hato. ethI vegathI AvatI hoDI aDadhI enA upara caDhI jatI ane tatkSaNa pAchaLano nAvika pANImAM kUdI paDIne bAkInI hoDIne AgaLa jorathI haDaselI deto. A kaSTabharyuM kArya ghaDIkamAM te karI letA. kyAreka hoDI pAchI paNa paDI jatI to pharI pAcho dhakko marAto. AvA sAMkaDA ane patharALa jaLamArgamAM paNa judI judI hoDI vacce AgaLa nIkaLI javA mATe tIvra spardhA, rakajhaka ke takarAro paNa thatI. bIjAnuM je thavAnuM hoya te thAya, paNa potAnI hoDIne AgaLa kADhI levA mATe vakhatovakhata temanI vacce ghUsAdhUsI thatI. vikAsazIla dezonI garIba prajAnI A lAkSaNika TevanI ApaNane navAI na lAge, paNa yuropaamerikAnA pravAsIone to jarUra lAge. vadhu pherA karI vadhu kamAvA mATenI A vyavasAyI spardhA hatI. kyAre ApaNane Dara lAge ke sAmethI bephAma dhasI AvatI hoDI sAthe ApaNI hoDI jorathI bhaTakAze ane ApaNe pANImAM gabaDI paDIzuM. paraMtu teve vakhate hoDIvALAnI samayasUcakatA dekhAI AvatI. teo hoDIne AgaLapAchaLa evI rIte vaLAMka ApI detA ke hoDI bhaTakAtI rahI jatI. salAmatI tarIke ApaNA potAnA hAtha beya bAju bahAra na rAkhatAM aMdara rAkhavA paDatA. samatulA jALavavA mATe paNa hoDInI baMne kinAra aMdaranI bAjuthI pakaDavI paDatI. hoDInI saphara A rIte satata adhdhara zvAse thatI hatI. amArAM zarIra to kyAranoya AkhAM bhIMjAI gayAM hatAM. amArA sahapravAsI cInI sajjananAM to badhAM ja kapaDAM bhIMjAI gayAM hatAM. temaNe ghaDiyALa kADhI khIsAmAM mUkI dIdhI hatI. temane gAIDanI sUcanA have samajAI hatI. pAgyAna-hAmano dhodha 49 47

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ame jema jema AgaLa jatA gayA tema tema baMne bAju vadhu UMcI bhekhaDo AvatI gaI. AgaLa jatAM to te bhekhaDo pAMcasothI hajAra phUTa UMcI hatI. vaLAMkone lIdhe to koIka sthaLe jANe koI UMDA aMdhArA kUvAmAM ApaNe UtaryA hoIe tevuM lAge. sIdhI UMce najara karIe to AkAzano nAnakaDo TukaDo dekhAya. lagabhaga doDheka kalAke ame dhodha pAse pahoMcyAM. ahIM amane hoDImAMthI UtarI javAnuM kahevAyuM. seMkaDo pravAsI tyAM ekatra thayA. e badhAMne lAvanAra hoDIo tyAM jamA thaI hatI. thoDI thoDI vAre keTalIka hoDIo AvatI ane keTalIka vidAya letI. pAsAna-hAmano dhodha lagabhaga baso phUTa UMcethI jorathI paDato hato. dhodhanI nIce taLAva jevI racanA thaI gaI hatI. emAM moTo tarApo pheravavAmAM Avato. je pravAsIone barAbara dhodhanI nIce javuM hoya teone A tarApAmAM besADIne laI javAmAM AvatA. tenA judA paisA ApavAnA nahotA. khAlI jUnAM pIpa ane moTaranAM havAbharelAM jUnAM TAyaro vaDe banAvelo A gAmaThI tarApo hato. ekasAthe daseka pravAsIne temAM besADavAmAM AvatA. taLAvamAM barAbara vaccethI pasAra thAya evI rIte jADuM majabUta doraDuM UMce bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM hatuM te pakaDIne ane vAMsaDAnA haDaselAthI tarApAvALA TheTha dhodha nIce tarApo pahoMcADatA. dhodhanA pANInI barAbara bAjumAMthI amAro tarApo pasAra thayo. pANInA zIkomAM bhIMjAvAnI amane majA paDI, paraMtu kSaNavAramAM amArI majA nIkaLI gaI. dhodhamAra paDatAM dhodhanAM pANI pavananA jorane kAraNe AghAMpAchAM paDatAM hatAM. amAro tarApo dhodhanI vadhu najIka Avyo tyAre amArA upara ThaMDuM pANI eTalA vegathI satata paDatuM rahyuM ke amane te dhaDAdhaDa vAgavA mAMDyuM. zvAsa levAmAM takalIpha paDavA lAgI. gUMgaLAmaNa thavA lAgI. badhAMnA zvAsa adhdhara thaI gayA. pANI eTaluM satata paDatuM hatuM ke zvAsa levA mATe ghaDIe ghaDIe moDhuM kholavuM paDatuM. amArA tarApAmAM AvelI eka amerikana yuvatIe to gabharAIne cIso pADavA mAMDI. paNa dhodhanA pANInA avAjamAM e cIso paNa dabAI gaI. A eka sAhasika ane jokhamI anubhava hato. amane thayuM ke kAcApocA mANasanuM ahIM kAma nahi. alabatta, tarApAvALA ghaNA cAlAka ane kunehavALA hatA. te dara paMdara miniTe dhodha pAsethI cakkara mAratA. A temano rojano vyavasAya hato, eTale temane to bIka hoya ja zI ? 48 * pravAsa-darzana

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dhodha pAsethI tarApo pasAra thAya tyAre uparathI paDatA pANIno vega ane jaththo koI vakhata ghaNo vadhAre hoya to te pravAsInI ADe UbhA rahI dhodhano mAra pote jhIlI letA. prapAtanAM paDatAM pANImAM snAna karavAno sAhasika ane romAMcaka anubhava karI ame pAchA pharyA. hoDIvALAe amane bolAvIne potAnI hoDImAM besADyAM. have hoDInuM kAma saraLa hatuM. nadInAM pANI nIce vahetAM jatAM hatAM. vaheNanI sAthe hoDI sarakatI hatI. nAvikono zrama mAtra khaDako vacce hoDIne vaLAMko ApavAno raheto. thoDI vAramAM to ame nadInA pahoLA paTamAM AvI pahoMcyAM. prakRtisaundaryano AnaMda to hato ja. temAM vaLI ame rAhatano paNa AnaMda anubhavyo. sUryanA prakAzamAM amArAM bhInAM zarIra sukAI gayAM. hoTela pAsenA kinAre ame UtaryA. amArAM zarIra jakaDAI gayAM hatAM beThAM beThAM. hoDIvALAnA zarIramAM haju skUrti hatI. bIjo phero karavAnI ane navA gharAkone laI javAnI utsukatA temanI AMkhomAM varatAtI hatI. rojeroja AvuM parizrama bhareluM kAma karanArAnI tAsIra ja judI hatI. emanA caherA upara satata vyagratAnI pAkI rekhA aMkita thaI gaI hatI. emanA paga rAMTA thaI gayA hatA. paganA goTalA kaThaNa banI gayA hatA. paganAM taLiyAM pANInI nIcenA vAMkAcUMkA paththaro para bhAra daIne cAlavAthI sapATa thaI gayAM hatAM. paganA taLiyAnI dhoLI rekhA satata pANImAM rahevAne lIdhe vadhu UMcI AvI hatI. sUryanA tApane lIdhe emanAM ughADAM zarIra kALAM paDI gayAM hatAM. hoDImAMthI ame UtaryA eTale baMne nAvikoe bakSisa mATe salAma karI. paraMtu ame khulAso karIe te pahelAM emaNe ja kahyuM, "Apa kapaDAM paherIne ane paisA laIne Avo tyAM sudhI ame rAha joIe chIe." ame kapaDAM paherI nAviko pAse AvyAM. peTane khAtara temanI kALI majUrI joIne ame gAIDe kahI tethI bamaNI bakSisa ApI. pelA cInI sajjanathI paNa vadhu bakSisa ApyA vinA rahevAyuM nahi. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) pAgsAna-hAmano dhodha eka 49

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9 tAkAmasu ane risurina pArka (jApAna) deza tarIke jApAna nAno che, paraMtu prAkRtika sauMdaryanI daSTie te ghaNo raLiyAmaNo che. vastunI suMdara kalAtmaka goThavaNI e jApAnanI prajAnI khAsiyata che. svacchatA ane suMdaratAno sAMskArika samanvaya jApAnanI prajAnA lohImAM supere UtarI Avelo jovA maLaze. jApAnI lokone potAnuM nAnakaDuM ghara hoya topaNa enA ekAda khUNAmAM naisargika manohara racanA karavAnuM game che. kyAreka to nAnuM sarakhuM satata vahetuM jharaNuM athavA nAnA nAnA lIsA, goLa ke karakarA paththaro upara thaIne nIce paDatA pANInI racanA paNa te temAM kare che. moTAM vRkSonI nAnI jIvaMta AkRti (bonsAI) karavAnI vaijJAnika paddhati paNa jApAnI lokoe saikAthI vikasAvelI che. phUla-DALakhI-pAMdaDAMnI manohara racanAnI kalA (IkebAnA) paNa jApAnanI AgavI che. udyAnamAM goLamaToLa kAMkarA ane paththarone zveta retImAM kalAtmaka rIte goThavI sthaLanA sauMdaryamAM abhivRddhi karavAnI sUjha paNa temanI pAse sarasa hoya che. jApAna tenAM udyAno mATe jANIto deza che. je jApAnanA bagIcAmAM pharelA hoya te anya koI dezamAM paNa jApAnI zailIthI bagIco karavAmAM Avyo hoya to te tarata pArakhI zake che. vahetA jharaNAnAM pANImAM eka kinArethI bIje kinAre javA mATe vacamAM goLa paththarone sIdhI lITIe goThavavAne badale tene evo naisargika vaLAMka teo Apaze ke je kudaratI 50 % pravAsa-darzana

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lAge ane chatAM atyaMta kalAtmaka hoya. udyAnakalA e jApAnano atyaMta priya viSaya che. keTalAya loko e viSayamAM pAraMgata thayelA jovA maLaze. Tokiyo, kyoTo, sAkA, niko, hirozimA vagere sthaLe AvelAM ramaNIya udyAno meM joyAM hatAM. paraMtu zikoku TApumAM Avelo suprasiddha risUrina pArka meM joyo na hato. e jovAnI mArI ghaNA vakhatathI IcchA hatI. I.sa. 1968mAM mAre jApAna javAnuM thayuM tyAre meM mArA mitra sAkAyorIne patra lakhIne jaNAvyuM hatuM ke "mArI IcchA jApAnano mazahUra risUrina pArka' jovAnI che. ane jo banI zake to tenA pravAsanuM Ayojana karavAnI bhalAmaNa che. eTale temaNe te pramANe pravAsa goThavyo hato. risUrina pArka jovA mATe najIkanuM moTuM zahera te tAkAmasuM che. madhya jApAnamAM, zikoku TApumAM dariyAkinAre AveluM A eka nAnuM zahera che. have to eno ghaNo vikAsa thayo che, paraMtu e vakhate to te eka nAnuM zAMta nagara hatuM. zaheramAM bahu hoTelo na hatI. je be-cAra hoTelo hatI te paNa pramANamAM sAva nAnI hatI ane bIjI traNa-cAra nAnI hoTela jApAnI paddhatinI hatI. sAkAthI sTImaramAM besI ame sAMje tAkAmasuM UtarI "tAkAmasuM" nAmanI hoTelamAM pahoMcyA. hoTela nAnI hatI, paNa nAnA zaheranA pramANamAM sArI hatI. hoTelamAM pahoMcIne risepzana kAunTara upara sAkAyorIe potAnuM nAma ApyuM. risepzanisTa amane eka rUmanI cAvI ApI. sAkAyorIe ene kahyuM, "ame be jaNa chIe. amArA mATe ame be rUma buka karAvI che." risepzanisTe kahyuM, "mApha karajo, ame tamArA mATe eka ja rUma buka karI che. be bhAI Avaze evo amane saMdezo maLyo che, paNa baMnene alaga alaga rUma joIe evo saMdezo maLyo nathI. eTale ame tamArA mATe eka ja rUma buka karI che.' sAkAyorIe kahyuM, "emAM kaMI gerasamaja thaI lAge che, paNa have amane bIjI eka rUma Apo." risepzanisTe kahyuM, "ame dilagIra chIe ke amArI pAse bIjI eka rUma khAlI nathI." . meM sAkAyorIne kahyuM, "ApaNA baMne mATe jo eka ja rUma rAkhI hoya to te eka rUmamAM rahevAmAM mane vAMdho nathI. eTalo khoTo kharca karavAnI kaMI jarUra nathI." paNa sAkAyorIe Agraha rAkhyo ke baMne jaNa mATe judI judI rUma maLatI hoya to te rIte ja rahevuM che. meM kahyuM, "tame mane mahemAna tarIke tAkAmansa ane risurina pArka * 51

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bahu mahattva nahi Apo to cAlaze.' paNa sAkAyorIe te vAta kabUla na rAkhI. emaNe risepzanisTane kahyuM, "tAkAma zaheramAM bIjI koI hoTelamAM tapAsa karIne amane be svataMtra rUmanI vyavasthA karAvI Apo. ahIM tamArA rUmano je cArja thato haze e to ame ApI daIzuM." risepzanisTa phona para phona joDyA, paNa dareka ThekANethI eka ja javAba Avyo ke eka paNa rUma khAlI nathI. eka ja rUmamAM rahevAnuM nachUTake thayuM, paNa e sAkAyorIne gamyuM nahi. emanuM moTuM paDI gayuM. cAvI laI ame amArA rUmamAM pahoMcIne sAmAna mUkyo. amArI pAse phakta eka eka nAnI bega ja hatI. jApAnanA pravAsamAM bahu sAmAna levAnI AvazyakatA nahi. jApAnanI hoTelanA rUmamAM paheravA ane sUvA mATeno kimono Dresa, pagamAM paheravAnAM slIpara, nahAvA mATe sAbu ane Tovela, zempa ane heraDrAyara, dAMta sApha karavA mATe eka divasa cAle evuM braza ane nAnI TUthapesTa, hajAmata mATe eka vakhata vAparIne pheMkI devAno astro, bUTane pAliza karavA mATenI sagavaDa, nizcita samaye UThavA mATe elArma ghaDiyALa vagere ghaNI suvidhA hoya che. ThaMDA pradezane kAraNe kapaDAM bahu melAM thatAM nathI. eTale ekAda divasanA pravAsa mATe to ghaNA loko bIjI joDa kapaDAM paNa sAthe letAM nathI. hAtha-moM dhoI ame taiyAra thayA. sAkAyorIe kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, A nAnA gAmamAM tamane zAkAhArI vAnagI maLavAnI thoDIka muzkelI to raheze ja.' meM kahyuM, "mane bahu vAMdho nahi Ave. jo cA-dUdha, breDa, bhAta ane phaLa vageremAMthI je kaMI maLe to eTalAthI mAre cAlI raheze." ame hoTelanI resTorAMmAM gayA. cA maLatI hatI, paraMtu te dUdhavALI nahotI. dUdha vagaranI kALI cA (jApAnamAM evI cA vadhAre pivAya che ane ene ko cA kahe che) lIMbu sAthe hatI. veITarane pUchatAM jANavA maLyuM ke resTorAMmAM breDa nathI, koI phaLa nathI ane je bhAta che te mane khape evA nathI, kAraNa ke temAM jhINI jhINI mAchalI nAkhelI che. sAkAyorIe mane kahyuM, "A resTorAMmAM to tamAre lAyaka kazuM maLatuM nathI. paraMtu ApaNe bahAra jaIne bIje kyAMka tapAsa karIe.' ame bajAramAM nIkaLyA. dukAnovALI mukhya sTrITanI aMdara ghaNe dUra sudhI ame AMTo mAryo. keTalIka dukAnomAM ane nAnI resTorAMmAM pUchaparacha karI, paraMtu koI paNa ThekANe breDa, phaLa ke bIjuM kazuM mAre lAyaka khAvAnuM maLatuM na hatuM. sAkAyorIe jApAnI paddhatinI bIjI hoTelomAM phona karIne pUchyuM, paraMtu koI paNa ThekANe dUdha sudhdhAM pa2 9 pravAsa-darzana

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maLatuM na hatuM. ekaMdare jApAnI loko dUdha levAne bahu TevAyelA nathI. dUdhALAM Dhora paNa jApAnamAM khAsa nathI. evI eka mAnyatA che ke dUdha pInArI prajAne hAthepage ruvAMTI thAya che. jApAnI lokone ekaMdare hAthepage ruvAMTI hotI nathI. ame ghaNubadhe ThekANe rakhaDIne AvyA, paNa mAre lAyaka kazuM khAvAnuM maLyuM nahi. kaMI jarUra nahi paDe ema samajIne osAkAthI kazuM lIdhuM paNa nahotuM. resTorAMmAM sAkAyo2Ie potAnuM bhojana lIdhuM. meM phakta lIMbuvALI cA pIdhI. sAkAyo2Ine ghaNo aphasosa thayo. meM kahyuM, 'tame mArI phikara karazo nahi. huM bhUkhyo rahevAne TevAyelo chuM.' sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'DaoN. zAha, bhUkhyA peTe tamane UMgha kema Avaze ?' meM kahyuM, 'mane bhUkhyA peTe paNa sArI UMgha AvI jaze. ame jaina loko enAthI TevAyelA hoIe chIe.' sAkAryorIe jamI lIdhuM eTale ame amArI rUmamAM gayA. AkhA divasanA pravAsathI thAkelA hatA. vaLI bajAramAM ame khUba rakhaDyA hatA. eTale pathArImAM paDazuM evA UMghI jaIzuM ema lAgatuM hatuM. sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'DaoN. zAha judI rUma rAkhavA mATeno mAro Agraha zA mATe che te tame jANo cho ?' meM kahyuM, 'nahAvA-dhovAmAM sagavaDa rahe eTalA mATe ja hoya ne ?' sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'e to kharuM, paNa khAsa to e mATe ke mAre lIdhe tamane agavaDa na paDe evI mArI IcchA hatI.' meM kahyuM, 'tamArA lIdhe mane kazI ja agavaDa rahevAnI nathI. tame sigareTa ghaNI pIo cho e huM jANuM chuM ane eno dhumADo mane gamato nathI e tame jANo cho, paraMtu rAtre sigareTa pIvAno prazna ja kyAM che ?' sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'eTale ja mAre khulAso karavo che. rAtanA paNa huM traNacAra vakhata UThIne sigareTa pIuM chuM.' meM kahyuM, 'teno vAMdho nahi. eka rAtano savAla che ne ? paMkho cAlu rAkhIzuM. dhumADo tarata nIkaLI jaze.' sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'sigareTanI to huM tamane bahu takalIpha nahi ApuM, paraMtu jyAre have eka ja rUmamAM sAthe rAta rahevAno prasaMga Avyo che tyAre mAre mArI aMgata khAsiyatano khulAso karI devo joIe. huM UMghamAM moTethI ghaNo baDabaDATa karuM chuM. ethI tamArI UMghamAM khalela to paDaze ja.' meM vAtane haLavI banAvavA kahyuM, 'tame bhale UMdhamAM bolo, paNa tame je jApAnI bhASAmAM bolazo te huM samajI nahi zakuM. eTale tame je kaMI bolyA hazo te huM tamArI patnIne jaNAvI daIza evI koI bIka rAkhavAno prazna raheto nathI.' tAkAmatsu ane risurina pArka * 53

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sAkAyorIe kahyuM, "enI mane ciMtA nathI, kAraNake huM je boluM chuM te mArI patnI paNa samajI zakatI nathI. mAruM babaDavAnuM aspaSTa hoya che." kahyuM, "tamArI patnIne tamAruM boleluM na samajAya e to jANe samajyA, paNa UMghamAM bolavAne kAraNe tamArI patnInI UMghamAM khalela nathI pahoMcatI ?" "pahoMce ja che', sAkAyorIe kahyuM, "joke have ghaNI TevAI gaI che, paraMtu koI koI vakhata huM jyAre bahu moTethI baDabaDATa karato houM tyAre te bIjI rUmamAM jaIne sUI jAya che." AkhA divasanA pravAsathI ame thAkelA hatA. eTale UMghavAnI taiyArI karI. rUmamAM be palaMga AjubAjumAM hatA. sUtAM pahelAM sAkAyorIe potAnI vicitra Adata mATe pharI eka vakhata mArI kSamA mAgI. meM kahyuM, "AkhI rAta mAre jAgavuM paDe topaNa mane vAMdho nathI. AkhI rAta satata jAgIne saLaMga DyUTI karavAno mane lazkarI kaeNmpano anubhava che. vaLI huM koIka vakhata rAtre jhena (dhyAna)mAM paNa besuM chuM. eTale tame mArI bilakula phikara karazo nahi.' sAkAyorI thoDI vAramAM ghasaghasATa UMghI gayA. huM paNa prArthanA karIne sUI gayo. bhUkhyA peTe paNa mane tarata UMgha AvI gaI. paraMtu mArI e UMgha vadhAre samaya TakI nahi. rAtanA agiyAreka vAgyA haze. tyAM to sAkAyorIe UMghamAM moTethI baDabaDATa cAlu karyo. emano avAja eTalo moTo hato ke bAjumAM sUnAranI UMghamAM avazya khalela paDe. A vAtanI pahelethI jo khabara na hoya to rUmanI aMdara acAnaka koNa ghUsI gayuM che ane zI dhamAla thaI rahI che te samajAya nahi. thoDI vAranA baDabaDATa pachI sAkAyorI zAMta thaI gayA. emanAM nasakorAM jorathI bolavA lAgyAM. meM pathArImAM paDyA paDyA UMgha ANavAno prayatna karyo. rAtre UMgha na AvatI hoya to gheTAM gaNavAnI paddhati jANItI che, paNa mane to gheTAM gaNavAne badale navakAramaMtra gaNavAnI Teva che. thoDo vakhata e rIte navakAra gaNyA tyAM citta nidrAdhIna thayuM. paNa tyAM to sAkAyorIno baDabaDATa pharI cAlu thayo. koI koI zabdo to tArasvare bolAtA hatA. AvA saMjogomAM UMgha AvavAnI zakyatA have jaNAtI nahotI. mane thayuM ke pathArImAM jAgatA paDyA rahevuM enA karatAM to stuti, jApa, dhyAna vagere karavAM te vadhu yogya thaze. meM UThIne mAruM Asana laIne eka khUNAmAM besIne stuti, jApa vagere cAlu karyA. mane UMghavA nathI maLatuM evo mane koI saMtApa ke thAka nahoto. mArA manamAM sAkAyorI pratye koI cIDa paNa nahotI, balake sahAnubhUti 54 * pravAsa-darzana

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hatI. mArA mATe to A eka prakArano navo ja anubhava hato ane te paNa eka rAtane mATe. sAkAyorIne mATe to A jIvanabharano roga hato. ane emanAM patnIne mATe to A kAyamano trAsa hato. emano vicAra karatAM mane mArI takalIpha kazI ja na lAgI. prasannatApUrvaka huM mArA dhyAnamAM ane jApamAM lIna banI gayo. rAtri daramiyAna sAta-ATha vakhata sAkAyorIe A rIte UMghamAM baDabaDATa karyo haze. vacce ekAda vakhata pathArImAM beThA thaIne emaNe sigareTa paNa saLagAvI. emaNe joyuM ke huM eka khUNAmAM dhyAnamAM beTho chuM ane huM kazuM bolavAno nathI. eTale te tarata pAchA oDhIne sUI gayA. Ama karatAM savAranA pAMceka vAgavA AvyA haze. have jo huM aDadho kalAka sUI jaIza to tarata UMgha AvI jaze ema mAnIne huM pathArImAM paDyo ane thoDI ja vAramAM ghasaghasATa UMghI gayo. sADA cha vAge mArI AMkha UghaDI. te daramiyAna sAkAyorIe kaMIka baDabaDATa karyo hato ke nahi tenI mane khabara paDI nahi. te vize sAkAyorIne puchAya paNa nahi. pUchIe to sAkAyorI kevI rIte sAco javAba ApI zake ? pote UMghamAM baDabaDe che evuM bhAna kayA mANasane baDabaDatI vakhate hoI zake ? savAra thatAM ja snAna vagerethI paravArIne ame resTorAMmAM gayA. sAkAyorIe nAsto karyo. mArA mATe to lIMbuvALI kALI cA sivAya bIjuM kazuM khape tevuM na hatuM. mane e jAtanI cA bhAve che eTale takalIpha nahotI. pachI ame TeksImAM besI risurina pArkamAM pahoMcyA. riphurina pArka jApAnano eka ghaNo vizALa ane suprasiddha pArka che. jUnA vakhatamAM e vistAramAM rahetA koI eka moTA umarAvanI 134 ekara jeTalI jagyAmAM moTI vasAhata hatI. vakhata jatAM A vizALa jagyA sarakAra hastaka AvI ane sarakAre tyAM eka sarasa pArkanuM Ayojana karyuM. risUrina pArka eTalo moTo ane suMdara che ke e jotAM dharAIe nahi. Akho pAka barAbara jovA jaIe to thAkyA vagara rahIe nahi. A pArkamAM je mahattvanI judI judI racanA karavAmAM AvI che te ame nihALI. pArkamAM keTalAMka vRkSo to bahu UMcAM, ghaTAdAra ane saikAo jUnAM che. ThekaThekANe raMgaberaMgI puSpo khIlelAM hatAM. keTaleka ThekANe nAnAM taLAva jevI racanAo paNa karavAmAM AvI hatI. kyAMka kyAMka pANImAM ADAavaLA paththaro goThavIne karelI UMcI-nIcI ane vAMkI-cUkI pagathI kalAtmaka chatAM naisargika lAge evI hatI. jApAnIonI udyAnakalAnI A eka viziSTatA tAkAmasu ane risurina pArka jha papa

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che. pArkamAM paNa keTaleka sthaLe pakSIno kalarava thato hato. nAnAM nAnAM haraNo chUTAM pharatAM hatAM. pArkamAM pharatAM pharatAM ame eka sthaLe AvyA. tyAM eka nAnosarakho pula banAvavAmAM Avyo hato. nIce UMDuM pANI hatuM. emAM ghaNI mAchalIo dekhAtI hatI. keTalAka chokarAo pula uparathI nIce pANImAM mAchalI mATe khAvAnuM pheMkatA hatA. e jovAmAM ame tallIna thayA. evAmAM sAkAyorIe kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, tame ahIM UbhA rahezo, huM tarata ja AvuM chuM." pANImAM khAvAno nAno sarakho TukaDo paDatAM cAre bAjuthI ekasAthe cAlIsa-pacAsa mAchalI kevI dhase che ane koI eka nasIbadAra mAchalI e TukaDo potAnA moDhAmAM laI le che ane AthI bhAgI jAya che, e dRzya jovA jevuM hoya che. khAvAnuM meLavanAra mAchalI pAsethI paDAvI levA koI mAchalI pAchaLa paDatI nathI. mAchalImAM aMdara aMdara koI mArAmArI thatI nathI. niSphaLa thayelI mAchalIo pharI pAchI Amatema ghUmavA lAge che. A dRzya jovAmAM huM mazagUla banI gayo hato. mane vicAra Avyo ke khAvAno eka TukaDo pANImAM paDatAM pacAsa ke somAMthI ekAda mAchalIne ja khAvAnuM maLe che. paNa bIjI bAju A mAchalIne Akho divasa ja rojeroja keTalAya pravAsI khavarAvatA hoya che, eTale mAchalIne bhUkhe maravAno prazna to raheto ja nathI. jyAM AvuM khAvAnuM na maLatuM hoya tyAM paNa mAchalIo pANImAMthI potAno AhAra meLavI le che. vastuta: ahIM to vadhu paDatuM khAvAthI mAchalI hRSTapuSTa banelI dekhAtI hatI. (bhAratamAM gaMgA ane bIjI nadImAM ke sarovaromAM evAM keTalAMya pavitra sthaLo che ke jyAM mAchalIne khavaDAvavAno rivAja che. tyAM AvI ja hRSTapuSTa mAchalIo jovA maLaze.) evAmAM sAkAyorI eka kAgaLanI kothaLImAM kazuMka lAvyA. temanA caherA upara prasannatA hatI. mArA hAthamAM te paDIkuM mUkyuM ane kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, A tamArA mATe che." meM kothaLImAM joIne kahyuM, "oha ! mAchalIo mATenAM A biskiTa che. cAlo, ApaNe khavaDAvIe' ema kahIne AMgaLI jeTalA jADA ane veMta jeTalA lAMbA 'sTika'nA prakAranAM e biskiTanA TukaDA karIne meM mAchalIne mATe nAkhavA mAMDyA. sAkAyarIe kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, tame mArI vAta samajyA nahi. A biskiTa huM mAchalI mATe nathI lAvyo, tamArA mATe lAvyo chuM. mAchalI mATenAM A cokhAnAM biskiTa che. zuddha zAkAhArI che. eTale tame khAI zakazo. tame gaI kAla sAMjathI kazuM khAdhuM nathI, eTale mane tamArI bahu ciMtA thatI hatI, paNa sadbhAgye A cokhAnAM biskiTa maLI gayAM eTale huM rAjI thaI gayo." paka ja pravAsa-darzana

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meM sAkAyorIne kahyuM, "mane zAkAhArI khAvAnuM nathI maLyuM ane huM bhUkhyo chuM e sAcuM, paraMtu A biskiTa vecanArA pheriyA to mAchalIo mATe te vece che. eTale te biskiTa khAvAnuM mane gamaze nahi. mArA khAvAthI mAchalIno khorAka ocho thaI jaze ane teo bhUkhe TaLavaLaze evuM nathI. paraMtu A biskiTa mAchalIo mATe ja banAvAya che ane temane ja khavaDAvAya che. eTale huM e khAuM emAM mane aucityabhaMga lAge che. eTale bhale huM bhUkhyo rahuM, ATalA kalAka bhUkhyo chuM to thoDAka kalAka vadhAre, paraMtu A biskiTa mAre gaLe Utaraze nahi." ame e biskiTa mAchalIne khavaDAvI dIdhAM. biskiTanA TukaDA karIne te nAkhavAno ane pANImAM cAre bAjuthI mAchalIone TukaDA tarapha dhasI jovAno AnaMda ame mANyo. risUrina pArka joIne ame hoTela upara pAchA AvyA. sAkAyorIe potAnuM bhojana lIdhuM. meM cA pIdhI. pachI tyAMthI sAmAna laIne tAkAmasunA baMdare pahoMcI ame osAkA jatI sTImara pakaDI. nAnA nAnA ghaNAbadhA TApuovALI khADImAMthI pasAra thatI sTImara osAkA AvI pahoMcI osAkAmAM eka hoTelamAM ame UtaryA eTale sAkAyorIe sauthI paheluM kAma mane eka resTorAMmAM laI jaIne zAkAhArI bhojana karAvavAnuM karyuM. Ama AkhI rAtanA jAgaraNa pachI bhUkhyA peTe vizALa risurina pArka dharAIne jovAno mAro AnaMdAnubhava judA ja prakArano rahyo hato ! (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) tAkAma- ane risUrina pArka jha 57

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digaMbara snAna (jApAna) jApAnI bhASAmAM "gAvA' (athavA kAvA) eTale nadI. TokyonI uttare lagabhaga doDhaso mAIla dUra kinugAvA nAmanuM eka atyaMta ramaNIya sthaLa che. tyAM AgaLa kinu nAmanI nAnakaDI nadI vahe che. A sthaLa vizeSa khyAti pAmyuM che tyAMnA garama pANInA jharA mATe. jApAnamAM garama pANInA jharA ghaNe sthaLe che. evAM sthaLone "heltha rejhorTa' tarIke jApAne vikasAvyAM che. evAM zAMta ane manohara sthaLoe jApAnI ArAma ane AnaMdapramoda mATe vAraMvAra jatAM hoya che. kinugAvAmAM zarUAtamAM je keTalIka hoTelo baMdhAI temAM nadImAM AvelA garama pANInA jharAmAMthI ja gaMdhakavALuM garama pANI pAIpa vATe sIdhuM hoTelamAM lAvI garama pANInA hoja bAMdhavAmAM AvelA. paraMtu tyAra pachI evA hojanI lokapriyatA vadhatAM AsapAsa keTalIye moTI moTI AlIzAna hoTelo baMdhAI. te badhI mATe jharAnuM kudaratI garama pANI lAvavAnuM saraLa nahotuM. eTale pravAsInA AkarSaNa mATe temAM gaMdhakavALA nahi, paNa sAdA garama pANInA hoja rAkhavAmAM AvyAM. hoTelamAM ja hITara vaDe TAMkImAM garama thayeluM pANI kamara sudhInA UMDA A hojamAM Ave. covIsa kalAka A hoja hoTelanA grAhako mATe khullA hoya. kinugAvAmAM ghaNIkharI hoTelomAM jApAnI paddhatithI rahevAnuM hoya che. kinugAvAo nasena' nAmanI eka moTI AlIzAna hoTelamAM amArA 58 49 pravAsa-darzana

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utArAnI vyavasthA amArA yajamAnoe karI hatI. hoTelamAM pravezatAM ja daravAjAmAM amArA bUTa kaDhAvI levAmAM AvyA ane amane lAkaDAnI cAkhaDIo paheravA ApavAmAM AvI. rUmamAM gayA pachI tarata amAre jApAnI kimono paheravo paDyo, kAraNa ke hoTelamAM potAnAM gharanAM kapaDAM paherIne pharavAnI manAI hatI. je koI strI-puruSo kinugAvAnI jApAnI paddhatinI hoTelamAM rahevA Ave temanA mATe hoTela taraphathI apAto yuniphorma jevo kimono paheravAnuM lagabhaga pharajiyAta jevuM hoya che. gaLAthI paganI eDI sudhI laTakatA, AgaLathI saLaMga khullA evA jhabhbhAmAM jamaNI bAjunA cheDA upara DAbI bAjuno cheDo lapeTIne kammare paTTo bAMdhavAno hoya che. strIo ane puruSo mATe kimono ane cAkhaDI ekasarakhAM hoya che. te paherIne hoTelamAM pharavAno anubhava amAre mATe navo hato. kinugAvAmAM AvelA dareka pravAsInI rojanI mahattvanI pravRtti te nAhavAnI ane khAvAnI rahetI. nAhavA mATe badhA hojamAM jatA. amArA jApAnI mitro amane hojamAM nAhavA mATe laI gayA. jatI vakhate meM eka mitrane pUchyuM : "rUmamAM Tovela nathI to tyAM ApaNane Tovela maLaze ke kema ?' emaNe kahyuM, "TovelanI jarUra nathI. rUmamAM je neplina hoya te laI lejo; ahIMnI ghaNI hoTelomAM Tovelane badale nepkina apAya che." nepkina laI ame hoja pAse pahoMcyAM. hojamAM badhA puruSoe nagnasnAna karavAnuM che e tyAM pahoMcyA tyAre khabara paDI. bahAra sUcanA lakhI hatI ke zarIre kaMI paNa kapaDuM paherIne hojamAM snAna karavAnI manAI che. AvI rIte jAheramAM nirvastra snAna karavAno amane anubhava nahoto, ethI amane keTalAkane kSobha thayo. amArA jApAnI mitroe kahyuM, "ahIM jApAnamAM A rIte digaMbara snAna karavuM e svAbhAvika che. tamane khAtarI na thatI hoya to pahelAM aMdara jaIne joI Avo ane pachI ThIka lAge to snAna karo." ame aMdara gayA. tyAM pacAseka puruSo vizALa hojamAM digaMbara snAna karatA hatA. garama pANIne lIdhe varALa satata eTalI badhI nIkaLyA karatI hatI ke ghaNA badhA puruSo nahAtA hovA chatAM dekhAtA hatA ochA. jApAnI loko mATe A svAbhAvika hatuM. atyaMta sahaja rIte eka pachI eka pravAsI AvatA. jhaDapathI kimono utArI tyAM rAkhavAmAM AvelI eka TopalImAM kapaDAM mUkIne snAna karavA jatA. hojanI aMdara eka AkhI dIvAla pAradarzaka kAcanI hatI. tyAMthI bahAra nIce nadInuM ramaNIya dRzya digaMbara snAna H 59

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najare paDatuM hatuM. sAme kinAre AvelI keTalIka hoTelomAM enA garama pANInA hojamAM pravAsIne AvI rIte snAna karatA joI zakAtA hatA. amArAmAMnA keTalAka e rIte hojamAM snAna karavA gayA. ame traNeka jaNA kSobhane kAraNe snAna karyA vagara pAchA AvyA. rUmamAM AvI bAtharUmamAM ame snAna karI lIdhuM. sAMje jamIne amArA rUmamAM ame beThA hatA tyAre A bAbatanI carcA cAlI. badhAno mata evo hato ke AraMbhamAM kaMIka vicitra lAge, paNa pachI ApaNe TevAI jaIe chIe. amane vicAra Avyo ke ApaNe bhAratamAM digaMbara jaina sAdhu pAse jaIe chIe tyAre tyAM keTalI zAMti ane svAbhAvikatA pravartatI hoya che ! tyAM vRddha ane yuvAna strIo ane nAnAM bALako paNa hoya che. prathama vAra jonArane thoDo samaya kutUhala rahe. paNa pachI ApaNe enAthI TevAI jaIe chIe. jema pazupakSIne nagna jotAM ApaNane saMkSobha thato nathI, tevuM ja digaMbara sAdhunI pAse vadhu vakhata rahevAthI anubhavAya che. prAkRta mANasa acalaka hato. vastra e sabhya saMskRtie upajAveluM kRtrima upakaraNa che. mATe nisargadatta avasthAmAM jyAM badhA snAna karatA hoya tyAM ApaNane kSobha thavo na joIe. bIje divase ame paNa digaMbara snAna karavAmAM joDAyA. eka vakhata kSobha ane lajjA gayAM eTale kazuM asvAbhAvika ke vicitra na lAge. amArA eka jApAnI mitre kahyuM, "ahIMnI hoTelomAM mAtra puruSonA hojanI eka dIvAla pAradarzaka kAcanI hoya che evuM nathI. strInA hojane paNa evI pAradarzaka dIvAla hoya che." pachI emaNe sAmA kinArAnI dUranI eka hoTela tarapha najara karavA kahyuM. tyAM strI nagnasnAna karI rahI hatI. emaNe kahyuM, 'tame bhAratavAsIne A joI bahu navAI lAge, che nahi ? paNa kadAca huM jo kyAMka jovA maLaze to tamane ethI paNa vadhu navAIbharI lAge evI ahIMnI prathA batAvIza.' kinugAvAthI ame keTalAka mAIla dUra evI ja bIjI eka nadInA kinAre AvelA kAvAjI nAmanA sthaLe gayAM. tyAM ame "kAzI vAyA' nAmanI eka vizALa adyatana hoTelamAM UtaryA hatAM. garama pANInA hojamAM snAna karI ame jamavA mATe eka vizALa khaMDamAM ekaThAM thayAM. ame beThAM hatAM tyAM pelA jApAnI mitra bAlkanImAM amane laI gayAM. tyAMthI temaNe nIce nadIkinAre thoDe dUra gaMdhakavALA garama pANIno eka kuMDa batAvyo. emaNe kahyuM, "ahIMnI ghaNI hoTelomAM to hITara vaDe garama kareluM pANI hoya che, paraMtu pelo kuMDa to gaMdhakavALA garama pANInA jharAno kuMDa che. jAhera 60 - pravAsa-darzana

Page #103
janatA mATe te che. A badhI hoTelomAMthI ane zaheranA rahevAsIomAMthI jemane tyAM nahAvA javuM hoya te jaI zake che. tyAM tame barAbara dhArIne najara karo." ame tyAM najara karI to eka kuMDamAM nirvastra strIo ane puruSo kazA paNa kSobha ke sabhAnatAnA bhAva vinA svAbhAvikatAthI sAthe snAna karI rahelAM dekhAyAM. thoDI thoDI vAre eka pachI e strI ke puruSa Ave, tarata badhAM vastra utAre ane kuMDamAM nAhavA dAkhala thAya. amArA jApAnI mitre kahyuM, "ahIM jApAnamAM A rIte strI ane puruSo eka ja hojamAM vastravihIna snAna kare enI amane jarAya navAI nathI.' kinugAvA karatAM kAvAjI zahera vadhu UMcAIe AveluM che. pramANamAM te nAnuM ane zAMta che. tyAMnI naisargika zobhA kinugAvA karatAM kaMIka vizeSa bhavya che. kAvAjIthI ame nikono dhodha joI Tokyo pAchA pharyA. tyAMthI have amAro kAryakrama dakSiNamAM AvelA jApAnanA kyuzu TApunA pravAse javAno hato. tyAM beDu TApunuM beDu zahera, Aso jvALAmukhI, kumAmoTono killo ane nAgAsAkI zahera jovA ame javAnAM hatAM. bekhu e TharI gayelA vALAmukhI upara vaseluM zahera che. Aje paNa tyAM ghaNe sthaLe covIsa kalAka satata dhumADA nIkaLyA kare che. A zahera enA vividha prakAranA garama pANInA jharA (jApAnI zabda che "jIgoku', eno artha thAya che naraka) mATe prakhyAta che. beThumAM enI sauthI vikhyAta hoTela te "suginoI' hoTela che. zaheranA UMcAmAM UMcA vistAramAM DuMgaranA DhoLAva upara te bAMdhavAmAM AvI che. aDoaDa AvelAM traNa vizALa makAnamAM te karelI che. suginoI hoTela pote ja eppanuM eka jovA jevuM sthaLa che. hoTelo kevI hoI zake teno te eka vilakSaNa namUno che. A hoTelamAM yUjhiyama, thiyeTa2, piksara-hAusa, ArTa gelerI, DAnsiMga hola, bagIco, svimiMga pula, sloTa mazInovALo emyujhamenTa vibhAga, dukAno, resTorAM, garama pANInA bAtha vagere badhA vibhAgo jotAM ja aDadho divasa lAge. A hoTelanuM eka mahattvanuM lakSaNa te enA bAtha che. kinugAvA ke kAvAjImAM hoTelomAM garama pANImAM nAhavA mATe strIo mATe ane puruSo mATe ema be sAdA hoja che. ahIM suginoI hoTelamAM to AvA cAreka sAdA paNa AkarSaka racanAvALA hoja to che ja, je covIsa kalAka khullA rahe che. paraMtu te uparAMta ahIM "jaMgalabAtha" ane "phlAvarabAtha" nAmanA digaMbara snAna u1

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be ghaNA vizALa ane bhavya bAtha che. duniyAmAM haju sudhI AvA bAtha bIje kyAMya koI hoTelanI aMdara jovA maLyA nathI. ame hoTelamAM pahoMcI, rUmamAM cA-pANI karI, kimono paherI nIkaLyA. kapaDAM utArI jaMgalabAthamAM nAhavA gayA. tyAM lagabhaga doDhaso jeTalA puruSo, keTalAka potAnAM nAnAM chokarA sAthe snAna karavA AvyA hatA. badhAM vastrarahita hatAM. A hoTelamAM jaMgalabAthamAM kharekhara jaMgala jevuM AbehUba dRzya racavAmAM AvyuM che. emAM nALiyerInAM keTalAMka vRkSa ugADavAmAM AvyAM che. uparAMta vividha prakAranAM nAnAMmoTAM vRkSo, phUla-choDa, velA vagere paNa ugADavAmAM AvyAM che. emAM nAhavA mATe eka nahi paNa sAteka nAnAmoTA, ghUMTaNa ke kamara sudhInA pANIvALA hoja banAvavAmAM AvyA che. koIkamAM pANI ekadama garama che, koIkamAM mAphakasaranuM che ane koIkamAM ThaMDuM che. A uparAMta koIka hojamAM pANImAM nIce nAnA lIsA patharA ane kAMkarA rAkhavAmAM AvyA che ke jethI emAM nahAtI ane cAlatI vakhate paganAM taLiyAM lIsA kAMkarAne aDe ane nadImAM hoIe evo kudaratI anubhava thAya. koIka hojamAM vacce ramavA mATe merI-go rAunDa, lapasaNI, sI-so, hIMcakA vagerenI racanA karavAmAM AvI che. koIka ThekANe masAja mATe hArabaMdha ATha-dasa naLamAMthI dhodhanI jema pANI paMdareka phUTa UMcethI satata paDe che. jemaNe jorathI paDatA pANI vaDe mastaka, Doka, kammara ke hAthapage mAlisa karavuM hoya, te AvA naLa nIce UbhA rahe che. eka jagyAe nAnAMmoTAM saune mATe moTI lapasaNI karavAmAM AvI che, jemAM vahetAM pANI sAthe mANasa uparanA hojamAMthI bAreka phUTa nIce, nIcenA hojamAM lasarI zake che. A jagaMlabAthamAM eka jagyAe garama retIno akhADo karavAmAM Avyo che. temAM ThaMDI ane nIce jatAM vadhu ane vadhu garama evI bhInI retI rAkhavAmAM AvI che. jo retIno zeka levA IcchatA hoya temAM sUIne potAnuM AkhuM zarIra retIthI DhAMkI de che ane e rIte zeka laI zake che. jema vadhAre garamI joIe tema pAvaDA vaDe retI vadhAre UMDe sudhI khaseDIne sUI zakAya che. retIno zeka lIdhA pachI, zeka lenArA mATe bAjumAM bIjA be judA hoja rAkhavAmAM AvyA che. pahelA hojamAM nAhIne zarIre coMTelI retI kADhI nAkhavAnI hoya che te pachI cokhkhA pANInA hojamAM pharI vAra nAhavAnuM hoya che. hojanI racanA ja evI kramabaddha karavAmAM AvI che ke retIsnAna karyA pachI pUrA svaccha thayA pachI ja bIjA koI hojamAM nAhavA jaI zakAya che. retIsnAna uparAMta uSNasnAna ke varALastAnanI kara pravAsa-darzana

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IcchA hoya temane mATe tevI vyavasthA paNa karavAmAM Ave che. ( vizALa pAyA upara karelI A racanAmAM jaMgala jevuM vAtAvaraNa kareluM che. siMha, haraNa, hAthI, gAya, bakarI vagere prANIonAM moTAM raMgaberaMgI pUtaLAM banAvIne vRkSonI vacce mUkavAmAM AvyAM che. eka hojamAM vacce mAchalIghara paNa banAvavAmAM AvyuM che. bIjA eka hoja pAse jApAnI paddhatino (jApAnamAM miyAjImAmAM samudranA pANImAM che tevo) lAkaDAno lAla raMgano daravAjo paNa banAvavAmAM Avyo che. eka hojanI vacce dhyAnastha beThelA bhagavAna buddhanI moTI pratimA che, je yaMtra vaDe cAreya dizAmAM satata pharatI rahe che. jaMgalabAthanI AkhI racanA eka vizALa jagyAmAM karavAmAM AvI che, ane te ghaNA UMcA, ardhavartuLAkAra, pAradarzaka chAparA vaDe baMdha karavAmAM AvI che. temAM vacce kyAMya thAMbhalo nathI. Akho jaMgalabAtha erakanDizanDa che. dUSita havA paMkhA vaDe satata bahAra kaDhAya che. jaMgalabAthamAM nAhatAM pahelAM ke nAhyA pachI temaNe sAbuthI nahAvuM hoya temane mATe ThaMDA ane garama pANInA naLa che. hajAmata karavI hoya temane mATe tyAM sAbu, braza ane astrA paNa rAkhavAmAM AvyAM hoya che. puruSonA bAthanI aMdara sAphasUphInuM kAma satata cAlyA karatuM hoya che, ane e kAma mATenI strIne paNa nokarIe rAkhavAmAM AvI che. ATalA badhA nagna puruSo vacce kAma karatI e strIo keTalI sAhajikatAthI potAnuM kAma karatI hoya che ! bAthanI bahAra vizALa khaMDamAM mAthAmAM nAkhavAnuM tela, krIma, zeviMga lozana, hera-DrAyara, masAja-cersa, kImatI cIjavastu mUkavA mATe lokarsa, vajana karavAnA kAMTA, ThaMDAM ane garama pINAM tathA biskiTa vagere joIe to te mATenAM oTomeTika sloTa mazIno, samaya pasAra karavA mATe raMgIna TI.vI. seTa, ramatagamatanAM sAdhano, TI.vI. gemsa ItyAdinI suvidhA paNa suginoIno jaMgalabAtha eTale ke jANe koI bAdazAhI yojanA. emAM snAna karavA janAra enAthI prabhAvita thayA vinA rahe ja nahi. dRSTipUrvakanuM Ayojana keTaluM sarasa hoI zake teno A eka uttama namUno che. ' (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) digaMbara snAna % 63

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pagarakhAM goThavanAra (jApAna) jApAnamAM hirozimA pAse kure nAmanuM gAma che. miTuToyo nAmanI kaMpanInuM tyAM vizALa kArakhAnuM che. miTuToyo jApAnanI AMtararASTriya khyAti dharAvatI kaMpanI che. jApAnamAM tathA uttara ane dakSiNa amerikAmAM judAM judAM sthaLe enAM ghaNAM kArakhAnAM che. agAuthI nakkI karIne karenA kArakhAnAnI mulAkAte ame pAMca mitro gayA hatA. kArakhAnAmAM pravezatAM ja ame joyuM ke enI vaDI kacerInI bahAra jApAnI dhvaja uparAMta bhAratIya dhvaja paNa te divase pharakAvavAmAM Avyo hato. ophisamAM paNa Tebala upara nAnakaDA jApAnI ane bhAratIya dhvaja mUkavAmAM AvyA hatA. videzanA mahemAnonuM svAgata karavAnI jApAnI lokonI A eka prazasya praNAlikA che. jApAnI rivAja mujaba sau prathama amane oziboruM ApavAmAM AvyuM. oziboruM eTale varALa nIkaLatA garama pANImAM boLelo ane vIMTALIne rAkhelo Tarkiza rUmAla. e rUmAla vaDe moDhuM sApha karatAM tAjagI anubhavAya che. jApAnamAM mahemAnone sau prathama oziboruM ApavAmAM Ave che. garamI hoya to kolanavaoNTaravALA ThaMDA pANImAM boLeluM oziboruM apAya che. oziboruM pachI amane ocA ApavAmAM AvI. ocA eTale eka prakAranI lIlI cA. teno lIlA raMgano bhUko garama pANImAM ukALIne apAya che. temAM dUdha ane sAkara nakhAtAM nathI. A lIluM garama pravAhI e 64 pravAsa-darzana

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jApAnIonuM priya pINuM che. ApaNe je cA pIe chIe tene jApAnamAM kocA kahevAmAM Ave che. jApAnamAM ghaNA loko temAM dUdhane badale lIMbu nicovIne pIe che. ocA ane kocA e baMneno svAda keLavIe to ApaNane paNa te bhAve. ocA pachI amArA mATe senDavica ane kaoNphI AvyAM. kArakhAnAnA maeNnejaranA madadanIza jevo paccIseka varSano eka yuvAna maeNnejaranI sUcanAnusAra amAre mATe A badhI vastu lAvavAmAM utsAhapUrvaka doDAdoDI karI rahyo hato. maeNnejare kArakhAnA vize amane badhI mAhitI ApI. kArakhAnAmAM judI judI jAtanAM mApa levA mATenAM ojAro banAvavAmAM Ave che. dara mahine nirdhArita utpAdana avazya thAya ja che kema ke majUronA pakSe ke vyavasthA vibhAganA pakSe samayano jarA paNa bagADa thato nathI. maeNnejare kahelI A vAtano amane pratyakSa anubhava paNa thayo. sauprathama je eka vibhAganI ame mulAkAta lIdhI tyAM joyuM ke ekasAthe baso karatAM paNa vadhu kArIgaro kAma karatA hatA, chatAM koI aMdara aMdara vAtacIta karatuM nahotuM. koIe amArI sAme naja2 sudhdhAM karI nahi. potAne soMpAyeluM kAma kAmadAro tyAM pUrepUrI niSThAthI karatA hatA. tyAra pachI ame bIjA eka vibhAgamAM dAkhala thayA. sUkSmatama mApa mATenAM yaMtrono A Akho vibhAga erakanDizanDa hato. eTale amAre amArAM bUTa-caMpala bahAra kADhavAM paDyAM. badalAmAM amane rabaranAM slipara ApavAmAM AvyAM. kArakhAnAmAM bahAranI dhULa ke jhINI rajakaNa pesI na jAya te mATe A vyavasthA hatI. e vibhAgamAMthI ame jyAre bahAra nIkaLyA tyAre amAruM tarata dhyAna paDyuM ke gametema kADhelAM amArAM bUTa-caMpala koIke barAbara evI vyavasthita rIte hArabaMdha goThavelAM hatAM ke bahAra nIkaLatAM te sIdhAM ApaNA pagamAM paherAya. pahe2vA mATe avaLA pharavuM na paDe. jApAnamAM gha2nI bahAra pagarakhAM kADhavAnI A eka judI ja praNAlikA che. jApAnamAM loko gharamAM dAkhala thatI vakhate avaLA pharIne pagarakhAM kADhe che, jethI bahAra jatI vakhate avaLA pharavuM na paDe. AMgaNAMmAM gametema paDelAM pagarakhAM mATe jApAnIne aNagamo hoya che. vyavasthita goThavelAM pagarakhAM e jApAnInA kuTuMbasaMskAranuM eka AgavuM lakSaNa che. ame kArakhAnAnA bIjA eka vibhAganI mulAkAta lIdhI. tyAMthI pAchAM pharatAM paNa joyuM ke amArAM pagarakhAM koIke vyavasthita goThavI dIdhAM hatAM. pagarakhAM goThavanAra * 65

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tyAMthI ame trIjA eka vibhAgamAM dAkhala thayA. ahIM ame jAte amArAM pagarakhAM jApAnI paddhati pramANe vyavasthita goThavIne dAkhala thayA. paraMtu A vibhAgamAM je daravAjethI ame dAkhala thayA tene badale bIjA daravAjethI amAre bahAra nIkaLavAnuM thayuM. ame menejarane kahyuM, "paNa amArAM bUTacaMpala to pelI bAju che." teNe kahyuM, 'tenI tame phikara karazo nahi." ame bIje daravAjethI bahAra nIkaLyA to amArAM bUTa-caMpala tyAM vyavasthita goThavAyelAM hatAM. koIka amArAM bUTa-caMpala eka daravAjethI uThAvIne A bIjA daravAje laI AvyuM hatuM. koNa A badhuM kare che tenuM amane kutUhala thayuM, kAraNa ke koI nokara tyAM nahoto. tyAra pachI bIjA eka vibhAgamAM dAkhala thayA. pachI amArAmAMnA eke saheja pAchA pharIne joyuM to jaNAyuM ke pelo paccIsa varSano yuvAna nIce besI amArAM bUTacaMpala vadhu vyavasthita rIte goThavI rahyo hato. e ja yuvAna e kAma patAvIne tarata ja kArakhAnAmAM amArI sAthe thaI jato ane menejara kahe te pramANe judI judI bAbatonI amane samajaNa Apato. te sAro jANakAra enjinIara che e to tenI samajAvavAnI rIta parathI paNa ame joI zakyA hatA. 'tamArA A yuvAna enjinIara kArakhAnA vize sAruM jJAna dharAve che." me kahyuM. hA, eNe amerikAmAM enjinIariMgano abhyAsa karyo che.' menejare kahyuM. "paNa tamArA enjinIara amArAM pagarakhAM UMcakIne vyavasthita mUke che enI amane zarama Ave che." meM kahyuM. tethI zuM thayuM ? jApAnamAM koI paNa kAma karavAnI koIne zarama naDatI nathI. bhaNelo hoya topaNa majUranuM kAma kare. amArA A enjinIara haju paNa ghaNI vakhata majUronI sAthe majUranI jema kAma kare che. enA pitAzrInI amane khAsa sUcanA che ke ene badhA prakAranI tAlIma maLavI joIe.' A jamAnAmAM AvI sUcanA ApanAra pitA bahu virala kahevAya. enA pitAzrI zuM kare che ?' ame pUchyuM. "e amArA kArakhAnAnA mAlika che, mi. yehAna nubhATA." "oha ! yehAna amATAnA A putra che ?' amArA mukhamAMthI AzcaryanA udgAra sarI paDyA. "yehAna gumATA to jApAnanA eka agragaNya 66 9 pravAsa-darzana

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udyogapati che; jApAnanA eka abajapati che." ame kahyuM. ' "hA, emanI IcchA che ke emano dIkaro Avate varSe kaMpanIno DAyarekTara bane te pahelAM kArakhAnAmAM badhA ja prakAranuM kAma niSThApUrvaka ane rasapUrvaka eNe kareluM hovuM joIe. to ja te DAyarekTaranA padane yogya gaNAya.' abajapatinA e enjinIara putrane ane potAnA putra mATe AvI dRSTi ane bhAvanA dharAvanAra pitAne ame manathI vaMdana karI rahyAM. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) paga2khAM goThavanAra = 67

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10 abu dhAbInI sAMja (Araba amIrAta) Adhunika kALamAM acAnaka bhAgyapalaTo thayo hoya evAM nagaromAM siMgApura, dubaI vagerenI jema abu dhAbIne paNa gaNAvI zakAya. cArapAMca dAyakA pahelAM, briTiza zAsanakALa daramiyAna, abu dhAbInA killAnI UMcI UMcI dIvAlo enI aMdara AvelAM khoraDAM pratye garva ane tucchakAranI najare jotI hatI. have potAnI AsapAsa UbhAM thayelAM pacIsa-trIsa mALanAM totiMga, ronakadAra hArabaMdha makAno AgaLa vAmaNI lAgatI e dIvAlo zaramathI nIcuM joI joIne jarjarita ke khaMDita thaI gaI che. dharatInA peTALamAMthI UDelA telanA phuvArAe sAudI arebiyAnI jema sAta nAnAM nAnAM rAjyonA banelA saMyukta Araba amIrAta (Emirate) nI paNa sikala badalI nAkhI che. e sAtamAM moTAmAM moTuM rAjya te abu dhAbInuM che. eTale saMyukta Araba amIrAtanuM pATanagara paNa abu dhAbI ja che. cArapAMca dAyakA pahelAM aDhI-traNa hajAranI vastIvALA abu dhAbIne choDIne gayelo eno koI nAgarika jo atyAre acAnaka pahelI vAra A aDhI-traNa lAkhanI vastIvALA nAnA menahaTTana (nyUyaoNrkanA) jevA abu dhAbIne jue to mAnI na zake ke e potAnuM vatana che. jANe koI svapna joto hoya evuM ene bhAse ! abu dhAbI javAno amAro koI kAryakrama nahoto, paraMtu dubaInA amArA pravAsa daramiyAna amArA mitra dubaInivAsI dharmapremI navInabhAI 68 9 pravAsa-darzana

Page #111
zAhanI IcchA evI hatI ke amAre abu dhAbI avazya javuM joIe ane khAsa to tyAMnI zerATona (Sheraton) hoTela jovI joIe. hoTela jovAnuM vaLI amAre zuM prayojana hoya ? paraMtu enuM kAraNa e hatuM ke navInabhAI varSothI dubaImAM rahe che, suprasiddha enjinIara che ane Araba amIrAtamAM je keTalIka hoTelo, masjido, makAno vagere emanI kaMpanI dvArA baMdhAyAM che tenI DijhAInamAM emanuM savizeSa yogadAna raheluM che. temAMnI eka te abu dhAbInI prathama naMbaranI hoTela zerATona che. dubaImAM rojeroja milana, goSThi, vyAkhyAna vagerenA amArA kAryakramo goThavAI gayA hatA eTale e rada karIne abu dhAbI javAnI amArI IcchA nahotI, paraMtu navInabhAIe savArasAMjanA kAryakramo thoDA AghApAchA karAvIne evI rIte rasto kADhyo ane pote ophisamAMthI rajA laI sAthe AvavAnuM vacana ApyuM ke pachI emanA premane vaza thavAnuM amArA mATe anivArya banI gayuM. amAre mATe navI gADI ane hoziyAra DrAIvaranI vyavasthA thaI gaI. meM mahinAnA unALAno samaya hato paNa A bAju para, oNphisa, kAra, sTorsa badhe ja erakanDizana pharajiyAta che. vaLI dubaIthI abu dhAbIno navo banelo Azare 180 kilomITarano sIdho vizALa dhorI rasto gatisahAyaka hato. nirdhArita samaye amArI maMDaLIe prasthAna karyuM. rastAmAM abu dhAbInA vikAsanI vAto nIkaLI. bhaugolika dRSTie to saMyukta Araba amIrAtano pradeza omAnanA akhAtamAM Avelo che. arabI samudramAM bahAranA bhAgamAM mAnanI saltanata che, jenuM mukhya baMdara maskata che. akhAtanI aMdaranI sAMkaDI khADImAM zArajAha, dubaI, abu dhAbI, dohA (katAra), baharIna, kuvaita vagere baMdaro AvelAM che. saMyukta Araba amIrAta eTale sAta amIrAtano saMyukta pradeza. pratyeka amIrAtano vaDo te zekha. kinArAnAM thoDAM baMdaro sivAya aMdarano badho pradeza te raNavistAra. vacamAM kyAMka raNadvIpa (Oasis) hoya tyAM pIvAnuM mIThuM pANI ane hariyALI hoya. page cAlIne ke UMTa para savArI karIne raNamAM rakhaDanArA thAkyAnA visAmA jevA AvA raNadvIpane joIne harSita thaI jAya. amIrAtanA eka vizALa rAjyanuM kALakrame vibhAjana thatAM sAta rAjyo thayAM. badhAM vacce saMpa, jyAM vastI nathI evA raNanI retImAM sarahada AMkavAnuM moMdhuM, muzkela ane anAvazyaka lAge. Itara pradezamAM nadI, sarovara, sAgara, khINa, parvata, jaMgala jevI kudaratI racanA sarahada AMkavAmAM upayogI abu dhAbInI sAMja : 39

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thaI paDe. paNa raNamAM sapATa retImAM zuM karavuM ? raNamAM sarahada pAMcapaMdara kilomITara Amatema hoya to tethI zo pharaka paDavAno che ? jUnA vakhatamAM to potAnA rAjyanI sarahada jovA javAnuM paNa kaSTabharyuM hatuM. eTale jyAM retIno raMga badalAya tyAM sudhI potAnuM rAjya evI samajUtI zekho vacce sadhAyelI. jyAM kazuM hoya ja nahi tyAM sarahadano saMgharSa karavAthI lAbha karatAM nukasAna vadhu thAya. eMsI hajAra corasa kilomITaramAM patharAyelA abu dhAbInA rAjyamAM mukhyatve raNapradeza che. emAM retInA moTA moTA DuMgarA joradAra pavananI bhamarI Ave tyAre enI sAthe eka sthaLethI UDIne bIje sthaLe evA ThalavAya ke jIvato mANasa daTAI mare. DamarI Ave tyAre jIva bacAvavA doDavuM paDe. divase sakhata garamIvALI AvI vikaTa paristhitimAM jUnA vakhatamAM taMbuomAM rahetA ahIMnA bedoyuIna (Bedouin) jAtinA lokoe saikAothI bahu kaparuM jIvana gujAryuM che. A raNapradezamAM be moTA raNadvIpa te ala AIna (Al Ain) ane livA (Liwa) mAM phaLadrupa jamIna ane hariyALI che. zekhanuM raheThANa paNa tyAM ja rahetuM. abu dhAbInuM nAma kevI rIte paDyuM te vize evI rasika daMtakathA che ke I.sa. 1761mAM livAnA zekha dhiyaba bina IsAe potAne mATe zikAra karI lAvavA mATe eka TukaDI mokalI hatI. raNamAM zikAra karavA nIkaLavuM hoya to retImAM paDelAM pazuonAM pagalAMne anusaratAM javuM paDe. zikArIo rAtrimukAma karatAM karatAM AgaLa vadhatA gayA. ema karatAM temaNe eka divasa haraNanAM pagalAM joyAM. pagalAMne anusaratA teo samudrakinArAnA pradeza tarapha pahoMcyA. eka divasa savAre gADha dhummasa hatuM. dhummasa vikharAtAM tene dUra dUra haraNonuM eka ToLuM jharaNAmAM pANI pI raheluM dekhAyuM. teo e bAju doDyA. eTalAmAM haraNa bhAgI gayAM, paraMtu raNavistAramAM pIvAlAyaka mIThuM pANI jovA ane pIvA maLyuM ethI te AnaMdita thaI gayA. teoe AvIne zekhane A samAcAra ApyA. zekha e jANIne bahu rAjI thayA. emaNe e jagyAne "abu dhAbI' evuM nAma ApyuM. arabImAM abu eTale pitA ane dhAbI eTale haraNa. abu dhAbI eTale ke haraNonA pitAnI, vaDIlonI A jagyA eTale ke haraNonI pitRbhUmi che evo artha thAya. tyAM pIvAlAyaka mIThuM pANI che eTale tyAM lokone vasAvI zakAya. vaLI samudrakinArAno A pradeza che ane ene aDIne eka TApu paNa che. zekha dhiyaba bina IsAe tyAM nagara vasAvyuM. zekhane potAne moTI uMmare livA choDIne tyAM rahevA javAnuM gamyuM nahi, paraMtu samudrakinArAnuM mahattva 70 % pravAsa-darzana

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samajIne emano dIkaro zekha zabbata 1793mAM tyAM rahevA gayo. tyArathI abu dhAbI amIrAtanuM pATanagara banI gayuM, paraMtu pATanagara eTale ? samagra rAjayamAM jyAM vastI ja nahi jevI tyAM A pATanagaramAM keTalI hoya ? be- aDhI hajAranI tyAre vastI hatI ane te paNa garIba ArabonI. amArI vAtacIta daramiyAna A khADInA vistAromAM cAlI rahelA purAtattva saMzodhananI vAta nIkaLI. tela kADhavA mATe khodakAma to karavuM paDe. e khodakAma karatAM karatAM ahIM prAcIna avazeSo nIkaLyA che. siMdhamAM moheM-jo daDo ane haDappAnA avazeSo maLyA pachI gujarAtamAM lothala ane kacchamAM dhoLAvIrAnA avazeSo je maLyA che te uparathI ema manAya che ke cArapAMca hajAra varSa pUrve arabI samudranI najIkanA A pradezomAM samRddha sAMskRtika vasavATa haze. Aje je raNapradeza che te tyAre kadAca nahi hoya. samudranI sImA paNa Aje che tenA karatAM AghIpAchI haze. abu dhAbImAM thayelAM saMzodhanonI ghaTanA rasika che. pahelAM AvA avazeSo baharInamAM maLI AvyA. e mATe DenmArkanA purAtattvavidonI eka TukaDI khodakAma karavA lAgI hatI. tyAM pAMca hajAra varSa prAcIna dIvAlo sahita avazeSo maLI AvyA. daramiyAna 1950mAM oIla kaMpanIe abu dhAbImAM tela mATe khodakAma cAlu karyuM hatuM. emAM kAma karatA eka aMgreja oNphisare potAnA mitrone jaNAvyuM ke baharIna jevA avazeSo ahIM 'umma ala nAra" nAmanA TApumAM paNa jaNAya che. keTalAka khADA kabaranA AkAranA nIkaLyA che. A vAta DenmArkanA purAtattvavidone jaNAvavAmAM AvI. zekhe paNa A kAmamAM rasa laI kharcanI maMjUrI ApI. e mATe yojanA thaI. vizALa vistAramAM khodakAma karatAM cAra-pAMca hajAra varSa jUnA avazeSo abu dhAbImAM paNa maLyA. emAM keTalIka AkRti UMTanI che. eTale tyAre paNa vAhana tarIke UMTano upayoga thato haze, enI sAbitI maLe che. vaLI sAcAM motI paNa maLI AvyAM. ethI jaNAya che ke arabastAnanI A khADImAM tyAre paNa motI dharAvatI IsTara mAchalIo haze. A uparAMta dariyAI mArge bhArata sAthe vyavahAra haze evA saMketo paNa maLyA. umma ala nAranAM saMzodhanothI prabhAvita thaIne zekha jhAyede e niSNAtone ala AInamAM paNa paNa khodakAma karavAnuM kAma soMpyuM. tyAMthI paNa paththaranAM vAsaNo, ojAro vagere maLI AvyAM. eka DuMgara upara ghaNI kabaro maLI AvI. ala AInathI thoDe dUra khodatAM eka AkhA nagaranA avazeSo maLI AvyA. eka sthaLe cakamakanA paththaronuM kArakhAnuM maLyuM. A badhA avazeSo darzAve che ke atyAre jyAM raNavistAra ane chUTIchavAI abu dhAbInI sAMja 9 71

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pAMkhI vastI che tyAM pAMca hajAra varSa pUrve samRddha vasavATa haze ! amArI gADI pUrapATa cAlatI hatI tyAM abu dhAbInA sImADA cAlu thayA. koI navA samRddha zaheramAM dAkhala thatAM hoIe evo anubhava thayo. Arthika samRddhi thatAM navesarathI vasAvelA zahe2mAM zI vAte kamI hoya ? rahevAne sarasa moTAM gharo, pahoLA rastAo, moTI moTI, bahurASTriya kaMpanInAM uttuMga, maulika DijhAInavALAM makAno, vizALa sTorsa, Adhunika moTaragADI, paMcatAraka hoTelo ane enA svaccha retItaTa, naukAvihAranI suvidhA ItyAdimAM pAzcAtya saMskRtino prabhAva varatAya che. tema chatAM keTalAMka sthApatyamAM musalamAna saMskRtino aNasAra anubhavAya che. ame zekha hamadAna sTrITa, zekha khalIphA sTrITa, ala nAsara sTrITa vageremAM pharyA. jUnA vakhatamAM motI ane mAchalInA vepAra para nabhatA abu dhAbInA kyAM garIba Arabo ane kyAM suMdara vastromAM susajja sukhI vartamAna Arabo ! navI masjidonA lAuDaspIka2vALA UMcA minArAmAMthI namAjane vakhate bulaMda dhvani cArebAju prasarI raheto. taDako rastA para asahya hato, paraMtu UMcAM UMcAM makAnomAM pUrva- pazcima dizAnI AkheAkhI raMgaberaMgI kAcanI dIvAlo taDakAne mAtra sahya ja nahi, AhlAdaka banAvatI hatI. AMtararASTriya vinimaya vadhatAM Adhunika vaijJAnika paddhatithI registAnamAM paNa vanaspatino vikAsa kevo thavA lAgyo che te ahIM najare jovA maLe che. ame hoTela zerATonanI mulAkAta lIdhI. ghara choDIne bahAra rAtavAso karavAnA viSayane mAnavajAte chellI sadImAM keTalo badho cagAvyo che ! dareka hoTelanI DijhAIna vilakSaNa ane prabhAva anokho. jema duniyA sAMkaDI thatI jAya che tema hoTela udyoga vistarato jAya che. A vaibhavI zerATona hoTelanI keTalIka AgavI lAkSaNikatAno amane paricaya karAvavAmAM Avyo. abu dhAbI nagara, taLa bhUmimAM ane bAjumAM AvelA TApu para vikAsa pAmyuM che. ame pharatAM pharatAM samudrakinAre eka udyAnamAM pahoMcyA. navInabhAIe kahyuM, 'aMdhAruM thatAM sudhI ApaNe ahIM besIne dharmacarcA karIzuM' jIvadayAno ja viSaya nIkaLyo. A bAjunI samagra prajA mAMsAhArI che. bhAratamAM zAkAhArI lokonuM jeTaluM pramANa che eTaluM duniyAmAM bIje kyAMya jovA na maLe. mAMsAhArI prajAmAM paNa darekanI khAsiyata judI judI. samudrakinAre vasatA lokomAM matsyAhAranuM pramANa vizeSa hoya e svAbhAvika che. jaina dharmamAM jIvadayAnI vAta jeTalI sUkSmatAthI vicAravAmAM AvI che teTalI anya dharmamAM nathI. 72 * pravAsa-darzana

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amArI dharmacarcA cAlatI hatI tyAM pAse eka gADI AvIne UbhI raho. emAMthI be Araba UtaryA. eka prauDha vayano hato ane sAthe caudapaMdara varSano kizora hato. pitAputra haze evuM anumAna thayuM. gADInI DikImAMthI temaNe eka peTI ane bIjI keTalIka sAmagrI kADhI. teo amArI pAsenI samudranI pALI upara AvyA. baMnee mAchalI mAravAno potapotAno saLiyo taiyAra karyo. temanI vAtacIta sAMbhaLI arabI bhASA jANanAra navInabhAIe kahyuM, "pitA putrane mAchalI kevI rIte pakaDavI te zIkhavavA lAvyA che. mAchalI pakaDavI e ghaNA lokonI zokhanI pravRtti hoya che." amArAmAMthI koIe sUcana karyuM, "ApaNe bIje jaIne besIe. ApaNI najara sAme koI mAchalI pakaDe ane taraphaDatI mAchalI ApaNe jovI paDe e kema sahana thAya ?' "jyAM jaIzuM tyAM bIjA koI nahi Ave enI zI khAtarI ? pele cheDe traNa jaNa to UbhA che ane bIjA paNa koI Ave. atyAre eno TAIma thayo che," navInabhAIe kahyuM. ApaNe taTastha bhAva rAkhavo. e bAju najara karavI nahi. koI mAchalI pakaDAya to enI sadgati mATe prArthanA karavI', bIjA eka jaNe kahyuM. ' kahyuM, "kadAca evuM bane ke ApaNe ahIM chIe tyAM sudhI koI mAchalI pakaDAze nahi. taraphaDatI mAchalI jovAno vakhata ApaNe mATe nahi Ave.' "ema thAya to to sAruM', badhA sasmita ekasAthe bolI UThyA. mAchalI mATe zAMta citte prArthanA karI ame amArI dharmacarcAmAM parovAI gayA. jo ke kutUhalavaza koI koInI najara thoDI thoDI vAre te bAju pharI AvatI. kalAka to ghaDIkamAM pasAra thaI gayo. samudramAM kSitija upara sUrya nIce UtarI rahyo hato. bIjI bAju kAcanI dIvAlavALAM UMcAM makAnonI oNphisomAM dIvAbattI thaI hoya evuM lAgatuM hatuM. vAstavamAM e dIvAbattI nahotI, paNa te badhImAM AthamatA sUryanuM pratibiMba jhaLahaLI rahyuM hatuM. Athamato sUraja samudranI kSitija upara lAla daDAnI jema goThavAI gayo, jANe hamaNAM pANImAM daDI paDaze. vAtavAtamAM to te adazya thaI gayo ane aMdhakAra dRSTine AvaravA lAgyo. sAme bIjI bAju makAnomAM sAcI dIvAbattIno prakAza pAradarzaka kAcamAMthI prasaravA lAgyo. samagra dazyanA saundarye AkAzane jhAMkhuM pADI dIdhuM hatuM. abu dhAbInI sAMja * 73 :

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ame UbhA thayA. mAchalI pakaDavA mATe pALI pAse UbhelA pitAputra nirAza thaIne potAnA saLiyA pAchA laI rahyA hatA. pitA putrane AzvAsana ApI rahyo hato ema temanI arabImAM thatI vAta sAMbhaLIne navInabhAIe amane kahyuM. ApaNI prArthanA phaLI' ema amane saune saharSa lAgyuM. ame cAlavA lAgyA. navInabhAIe kahyuM, "ApaNe divase kaoNphIpoTa ane kapanA AkArano phuvAro joyo. have je phuvAro jovAno che te zekhanA mugaTanA AkArano che. aMdhAruM thayA pachI ja tenI zobhA nihALavA jevI che. eTalA mATe ApaNe ahIM samaya pasAra karyo. have tyAM jaIe. ame tyAM pahoMcyA. vizALa vartuLAkAra jagyAmAM udyAnanI vacce banAvelo khAsso UMco phuvAro enA UDatA sIkaro ane raMgaberaMgI barInA prakAzane lIdhe ratnajaDita mugaTa jevo lAgato hato. vaLI nIce cArebAju phuvArAmAMthI UDatuM pANI vizALa chatrano AkAra dhAraNa karatuM hatuM. vAtAvaraNamAM maheka ane zItaLatA hatAM. phuvAro upara caDIne ame joyo ane pachI nIcethI paNa joyo. enA saundaryamAM daSTikoNa anusAra vaividhya hatuM. saundaryavRddhimAM vijJAnano phALo ocho nathI, paNa kharcALa jarUra che. saundaryanI abhivRddhi vagara kharce to prakRti karI zake enI tAjI pratIti amane tyAM ja thaI. nIcethI ame UMcI dRSTi karIne kuvAro jotAM hatAM te ja vakhate AkAzamAM baMkima caMdra ane zukrano graha ratnanA AbhUSaNanI jema prakAzI rahyA hatA. A phuvArAnA dazyanuM ja jANe eka aMga hoya, tema bane evA yogya sthAne goThavAyelA hatA. AvuM dazya to javalle ja jovA maLe. phuvAro joI, abu dhAbInI vidAya laI ame dubaI pAchA pharyA. Akhe raste lAITono jhaLahaLato prakAza hato eTale gADInI gatine koI avarodha nahoto. ame dubaI samayasara pahoMcyA ane amAro kAryakrama paNa nirdhArita samaye ja cAlu thayo. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3) 74 4 pravAsa-darzana

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11 IstaMbula - konsenTinopala na (turkastAna) IstaMbula - konsenTinopala' - A be zabdo sAMbhaLatAM ja mAruM citta bhUtakALanI smRtimAM sarI paDe che ane eka anokho tAlabaddha laya anubhave che. - I.sa. 1950thI vIseka varSa muMbaInI seMTa jheviyarsa kaoNlejamAM gujarAtI viSayanA adhyApaka tarIke huM kAma karato hato tyAre dara varSe trIjI Disembare kaoNlejanA vArSika dina nimitte moTA utsavanuM je Ayojana thatuM temAM gIto, rAsa-garabA, nATaka ItyAdi prakAranA sAMskRtika kAryakramamAM navA-jUnA vidyArthI utsAhabhera bhAga letA. emAM hiMdI, gujarAtI, marAThI gIto uparAMta iMgliza gIto paNa sarasa gavAtAM. eka vakhata kaoNlejamAM navI AvelI uSA nAmanI eka paMjAbI vidyArthinIe "IstaMbula - konTenTinopala'nA dhruvapadavALuM gIta, moTAM Drama tathA anya vAjiMtro sAthe bulaMda svare gAIne evI sarasa jamAvaTa karI dIdhI ke badhA vidyArthI paNa hAthapaganA svayameva tAla sAthe dhruvapadanA A be zabdo (temAM paNa "bula'ne badale 'bulla') ucca svare gAvA lAgyA hatA. pachI to uSA jyAM sudhI kaoNlejamAM hatI tyAM sudhI dara varSe A lokapriya gIta gAvAnuM ene mATe pharajiyAta jevuM banI gayuM hatuM. tyAre ghaNAMe pahelI vAra e jANyuM ke AjanuM je IstaMbula che te ja prAcIna samayanuM romana sAmrAjyanA pUrva bAjunA vibhAganuM aitihAsika pATanagara konsenTinopala che. mane svapna - IstaMbula - kosTenTinopala * 75

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paNa tyAre khyAla nahoto ke A IstaMbulanI zerIomAM pharavAno avasara eka divasa mane paNa sAMpaDaze. keTalAka vakhata pahelAM ame keTalAka mitro TarkI-turkastAnanA pravAse gayA hatA. amArA grupamAM bIjA bhAratIya pravAsI paNa hatA. muMbaIthI vahelI savAre vimAnamAM nIkaLIne sAMja pahelAM ame IstaMbula pahoMcI gayA. bharacaka vistAramAM AvelI eka jANItI hoTelamAM amAro utAro hato. rUmamAM sAmAna goThavIne ame bajAramAM laTAra mAravA nIkaLyA. Azare pacAsa lAkhanI vastIvALA, turkastAnanA A moTAmAM moTA zahera(have te pATanagara rahyuM nathI)mAM UMcA gorA tuka loko yuropiyana jevA ja lAge. vastuta: TarkIno keTaloka bhAga yuropamAM ane moTo bhAga eziyAmAM che. ahIM mukhya vastI musalamAnonI hovA chatAM rastA, dukAno vagerenAM borDa romana lipimAM che. vIsamI sadImAM turkastAnanA saramukhatyAra kamAla pAzAe ahIM turkI bhASA mATe erebika lipine sthAne romana lipi pharajiyAta banAvI hatI. - IstaMbula duniyAnAM keTalAMka suMdara zaheromAMnuM eka che. eka kALe e yuropanuM sarvazreSTha zahera gaNAtuM hatuM. vepAranuM te moTAmAM moTuM mathaka hatuM. yuropa ane eziyA ema baMne bAju jaLamArge tathA jamInamArge eno dhamadhokAra vepAra cAlato. prAkRtika saundarya, anukULa AbohavA, phaLadrupa jamIna, baMdara tarIke mokAnuM sthAna vagerene kAraNe traNa hajAra varSa pahelAM tyAM lokono vasavATa cAlu thayo hato. bhUmadhya samudra ane kALA samudrane joDato ane eziyA tathA yuropanI dharatIne chUTo pADato jalavistAra ahIM Avyo che. bhUmadhya samudra sAthe joDAyelA mArmarA samudra ane kALA samudra vacce je bosporasa nAmanI sAmudradhunI AvI che teno eka nAno phAMTo jyAM pUro thAya che te "golDana hornanA beya kinArAnI sAmasAmI TekarI para vaseluM baMdara te IstaMbula che. IstaMbula eTale eziyA ane yuropanuM saMgamasthAna. IstaMbulamAM taMbula, galAtA vagere vistAromAM pharIne ame hoTela para pAchA pharyA. bIje divase savAre ame nagaradarzananA kAryakramamAM joDAyA. basamAM amArI gAIDa yuvatIe IstaMbulano ItihAsa kahyo. jema saundaryanA zikArI ghaNA tema IstaMbula potAnI ramaNIyatAne kAraNe ja vakhatovakhata videzI AkramaNono bhoga banyuM hatuM. ahIM yuddho khelAyAM che ane lohInI nadI vahI che. ema chatAM A nagare potAnuM vyaktitva jALavI rAkhyuM che. zAntinA samayamAM IstaMbula zikSaNa, kalA, saMskRtinuM dhAma rahyuM che. ahIM 76 - pravAsa-darzana

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romana kAyado, grIka tattvajJAna, misara(Ijipta)nAM zilpasthApatya, khristI ane IslAmI dharmadhArA e badhAMno samanvaya thayo che. traNa hajAra varSa pahelAM, jyAre khristI dharmano ke IslAma dharmano udaya thayo na hato tyAre grIsanI pAse AvelA A pradezamAM judI judI sthAnika jAtinA loko vasatA hatA. emAMnI eka jAti bAyajhenTI nAmathI oLakhAtI hatI. enA saradAranuM nAma bAyAjha hatuM. te grIsa bAjuthI dariyAI mArge vepArArthe Avyo hato. A baMdara gamI jatAM eNe ahIM potAnuM thANuM nAkhyuM hatuM. tyArathI A baMdara bAyajhenTiyama tarIke oLakhAvA lAgyuM hatuM. eTale IstaMbulanuM sauthI paheluM nAma bAyajhenTiyama hatuM. grIka lokoe enA para Adhipatya jamAvyuM hatuM ane saikA sudhI te bAyajhenTiyama tarIke paMkAyeluM rahyuM. be hajAra varSa pahelAM khristI dharmano udaya thayo ane dhIme dhIme prasarato te grIsa ane ITalI sudhI pahoMcyo. ITalImAM romanA romana loko baLavAna, parAkramI, yuddha kalAmAM nipuNa ane mahattvAkAMkSI hatA. have grIka saMskRti jhAMkhI paDavA lAgI ane romana saMskRtino prabhAva vadhato gayo. romana sainiko AsapAsano pradeza jItavA jaI romana sAmrAjyano vistAra karatA jatA hatA. I.sa. 324mAM romana samrATa kosTenTina-pahelAe bAyajhenTiyama para AkramaNa karI te jItI lIdhuM. prAcIna samayamAM rAjyanA pATanagara mATe TekarI ke DuMgarAnI pasaMdagI thatI ane nagaranI AsapAsa moTA koTa-killA bAMdhavAmAM AvatA ke jethI dUra sudhI najara rAkhI zakAya ane zatru sAme surakSita rahI zakAya. konsenTine samudrakinAre sAta TekarI para navesarathI A nagara vasAvyuM ane koTa-killo baMdhAvIne nagarane navuM nAma ApyuM "konsenTinopala'. vaLI, romana sAmrAjyanA be vibhAga karIne, pUrva vibhAganA sAmrAjyanA pATanagara tarIke konsenTinopalane jAhera karyuM. romana loko zilpa sthApatyamAM AgaLa vadhyA ane jema jema khristI dharmano pracAra vadhato gayo tema tema sthaLe sthaLe nAnAMmoTAM devaLo baMdhAtAM gayAM. be-eka saikAmAM to romana sAmrAjyamAM hajAro devaLo baMdhAI gayAM, jethI lokone potAnA gharanI najIka dharmasthAnaka maLI rahe. phakta konsenTinopalamAM ja eka hajArathI vadhu devaLo baMdhAI gayAM. vaLI, mahilA saMta (satI) sophiyA(sophAyA)nI yAdagIrImAM chaThThA saikAmAM AkhI duniyAnuM tyAre moTAmAM moTuM devaLa "AyA sophiyA" athavA "hegiyA sophiyA' ahIM konTenTinopalamAM bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM. amane devaLa "hegiyA sophikyA" jovA laI javAmAM AvyA. aMdara IstaMbula - konsenTinopala 977

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jaIne enAM darzana karatAM ja ame AbhA thaI gayA. jyAM sudhI jAte na joIe tyAM sudhI enI virATa bhavyatAno aMdAja na AvI zake. saikAo sudhI te duniyAnuM moTAmAM moTuM devaLa rahyuM hatuM e vAtanI yathArthatA samajAya che. e jamAnAmAM rojeroja hajAro khristI A devaLanI yAtrAe AvatA. grIka bhASAmAM Hagia sophia no artha thAya che divya prajJA (Divine wisdom). devaLanI vizALatA, UMcA UMcA staMbhonI pahoLAI, chataghummaTanI saMracanA ItyAdino vicAra karIe to romana sthApatya keTalI uccatAe pahoMcyuM hatuM enI pratIti thAya che. samrATa jasTiniyane dila daIne A devaLa baMdhAvyuM hatuM. emAM vaparAyelI dasa lAkhathI vadhu lAdImAM keTalIkamAM sonAnuM jaDatarakAma thayuM che. bhIMtacitromAM paNa sonAno upayoga thayo hovAthI enI AbhA ja kaMIka oNra lAge che. A devaLa taiyAra karAvIne jAhera janatA mATe jyAre khulluM mukAyuM haze tyAre to vizvanI A eka adbhuta racanA banyuM haze ! enA "meDonA enDa cAIlDa' jevAM keTalAMka benamUna mojheIka to vizvavikhyAta banyAM che. romana samrAToe eka hajAra karatAM vadhu varSa kosTenTinopalamAM rAjya karyuM. samagra yuropanuM te prathama naMbaranuM suvikhyAta zahera banyuM. rojeroja ahIM hajAro vepArIo AvatA ane dhamadhokAra vepAra karatA. pUrvamAM bhArata ane cIna sudhI A klAsamRddha, saMpattivAna nagaranI khyAti pahoMcI hatI. paraMtu IslAma dharmanA udaya pachI, ane enA vadhatA jatA pracArane kAraNe turka vagere keTalIka jAtinA lokoe e dharma aMgIkAra karyo hato. teo dhIme dhIme saMgaThita ane Akramaka thatA jatA hatA. turka lokoe eziyA mAInora para kabajo meLavyo hato. A bAju romana sAmrAjya nabaLuM paDatuM jatuM hatuM. ema karatAM I.sa. 1453mAM oNTomAna vaMzanA sulatAna ahamade yuddha karIne konsenTinopala upara vijaya meLavyo. tyArathI ahIM tuka lokonuM Adhipatya vadhI gayuM. have konsenTinopala "IstaMbula' banI gayuM. ahIM staMbula nAmanA jUnA mukhya vistAra parathI IstaMbula nAma paDyuM. ahIM IslAma dharmano pracAra thayo. ahIM eka hajAra jeTalAM devaLone masjidamAM pheravI nAkhavAmAM AvyAM. hagiyA sophiyA paNa masjida banI gayuM. enA bahAranA bhAgamAM ghummaTo ane minArAnI racanA paNa thaI gaI. (have A devaLa myujhiyama tarIke vaparAya che.). hagiyA sophiyA joyA pachI ame IstaMbulanI suprasiddha nIla masjida (Blue Mosque) jovA gayA. IstaMbulanA pravAse janAre A masjida avazya jovI joIe. A eka bhavya uttuMga aitihAsika ImArata che. Aje 78 9 pravAsa-darzana

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paNa te masjida tarIke - dharmasthaLa tarIke niyamita vaparAya che. sulatAna ahamade e baMdhAvI hatI. enI eka mahattvAkAMkSA hatI ke game teTaluM kharca thAya to paNa potAnI masjida hagiyA sophiyAnA devaLa karatAM badhI ja rIte caDiyAtI banavI joIe. UMcAI, pahoLAI, AkRti, ghummaTonI saMkhyA, kalAkArIgarI, suzobhano, paththaro, raMgo, dhAtuonI guNavattA - ema badhI ja rIte masjidanuM nirmANa hegiyA sophiyA karatAM zreSTha thayuM che. ATalA UMcA vizALa ghummaTanA paththaronuM vajana jhIlavA mATe AdhArastaMbho paNa eTalA ja moTA hovA joIe. ApaNI kalpanA kAma na kare eTalA jADA, UMcA, kotarakAmavALA staMbho A masjidamAM che. emAM nIla eTale ke gherA bhUrA, kyAMka morapicchanA raMga jevA raMganI mojheIka TAIlsanI saMracanA evI sarasa thaI che ane bArI vageremAM raMgaberaMgI pAradarzaka kAcamAMthI AvatA prakAzathI vAtAvaraNa evuM preraka lAge che ke jANe koI divya anubhUti na thatI hoya ! masjidano ghummaTa eTalo moTo ane UMco che ke nIce Ubhelo mANasa vAmana jevo lAge. sAmAnya rIte masjidanA eka, be ke cAra minArA hoya che. jUnA vakhatamAM AsapAsa dUra sudhI loko sAMbhaLI zake e rIte bAMga pokAravA mATe UMcA minArA baMdhAtA. paNa pachI koI bAMga pokAravA upara caDatuM na hoya (have to kyAMka temAM mAIka mukAya che) to paNa minArA masjidanuM eka Avazyaka, oLakharUpa aMga banI gayuM che. sulatAna ahamade A bhUrI masjidanA cAra nahi paNa cha minArA karAvyA che. vaLI, pratyeka minArAnI Toca evI jhINI aNIdAra banAvI che ke jANe ke aNI kADhelI moTI pensilanI AkRti na hoya ! bhUrI masjida A pRthvI paranI eka virala bhavya sthApatyakRti che. masjida nihALyA pachI amane eka resTorAMmAM laMca mATe laI javAmAM AvyA. amArA zAkAhArIo mATe alaga vyavasthA karavAmAM AvI hatI. A resTorAMnuM nAma "jidAna-hAna" mane gamI gayuM. "jidAna" eTale jela ane "hAna' eTale resTorAM. jUnA vakhatanI jelanA khAlI paDelA makAnane marAmata ane raMgarogAna karAvIne resTorAM tarIke eno upayoga thavA lAgyo che. eTale enuM nAma paNa evuM ja rakhAyuM che. have amAro kAryakrama 'topakApI" (Topkapi) nAmano rAjamahela jovA javAno hato. A rAjamahela eTale koI eka moTI UMcI ImArata nahi, paNa seMkaDo kamarAmAM patharAyelI, udyAno sahita cAra koTa-daravAjAvALI vistRta racanA. enA prathama daravAje topo hatI eTale lokoe ja IstaMbula - konsenTinopala 79

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rAjamahelanuM nAma "topakApI' pADI dIdhuM hatuM. duniyAnA prasiddha aitihAsika rAjamahelomAM topakApInI gaNanA thAya che. oNTomAna sulatAnoe lagabhaga cAraso varSa turkastAna para supere zAsana calAvyuM, kAraNa ke bahu vyavasthita rIte e cAlyuM hatuM. sulatAnanA dIkarAnA dIkarA ane emanA dIkarA ema cArapAMca peDhI sudhI eka vaTavRkSanI jema vizALa saMyukta kuTuMbamAM te saMpathI rahyA hatA. darekane vahIvaTa - dekharekha ane surakSA mATe amuka judA judA pradezo soMpAyelA hatA. te badhA mahelamAM Ave ne jAya. emanuM vyavasthAtaMtra bahu saghana ane kAryakSama hatuM. mahelanA "ortAkApI' nAmanA madhya bhAgamAM kacerI hatI. tyAMthI samagra sAmrAjyano vahIvaTa thato. ahIM bIjA eka vibhAgamAM janAnakhAnA che, jemAM ekasothI adhika kamarAo che. dareka kamarAnI sajAvaTa anokhI. janAnakhAnAnI sAcavaNI mATe, prAcIna bhAratamAM prathA hatI tema, kaMcukIo (Eunuchs) nI nimaNUka thatI. rAjamahelamAM eka vibhAga bALakonI sunnata mATe rAkhavAmAM Avyo hato. A rAjamahelamAM badhAMnAM zayanagRha, snAnAgAra vageremAM ghaNI sagavaDo karavAmAM AvI hatI. sulatAnanA potAnA snAnAgAramAM kapaDAM badalavAnI, telamAlisa karavAnI, ThaMDA-garama pANInA phuvArA ane hojanI vyavasthA, e jamAnAnI apekSAe Azcarya pamADe evI hatI. sulatAnanI jema prajAjano mATe paNa jAhera snAnAgAra turkastAnamAM hatA. snAnakalAne turkoe bahu vikasAvI hatI. eTale "Tarkiza bAtha', "Tarkiza Tovela' jevA zabdo pracalita thaI gayA hatA. - A rAjamahelamAM traNasothI vadhu parivAranA sabhyo uparAMta dAsadAsIo, cokIdAro, sainiko, mahemAno, vepArI ema badhAM mATe roja rasoI thatI. e mATe bhojanazALAnA ghaNA judA judA khaMDo hatA je Aje paNa joI zakAya che. dareka vibhAganI rasoI judI thAya. amane eka rasoDuM batAvavAmAM AvyuM ke je so varSanAM dAdImA-begama mATe alAyaduM hatuM. topakApI mahela pote ja abhyAsano eka moTo viSaya che. enAM upara svataMtra sacitra pustiko lakhAyAM che. cAra-pAMca peDhI sudhI eka ja. parivAranA sabhyo, saMyukta kuTuMbanI prathA pramANe kevA saMpathI rahyAM haze enuM jvalaMta udAharaNa 'topakApI mahela' pUruM pADe che. mahela joIne sAMje hoTela para AvI, svastha thaIne ame saMgItanI eka mahephilamAM gayA. IstaMbulanI eka klabamAM roja videzanA pravAsI mATe bhojana ane saMgItano kAryakrama yojAya che. ame badhA pravAsI-mahemAno 80 % pravAsa-darzana

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potapotAnA jUthamAM nizcita karelA Tebala AsapAsa goThavAyA. pINAM ane bhojananI vAnagIo pIrasAtI rahI ane raMgamaMca parathI eka pachI eka gIto, ghaNAM badhAM vAjiMtro sAthe mukhya gAyaka ke gAyikA athavA samagra gAyakavRMda hAthamAM chUTuM mAIka rAkhI pharatAM pharatAM gAtAM jatAM hatAM. je je dezanAM nAma bolAya te te dezanA pravAsI mahemAno UbhA thAya, teone joradAra tALIothI vadhAvavAmAM Ave ane te pachI te te dezanAM philmI ane bIjA mazahUra gIto gavAtAM jAya. emAM yuropanA dezo uparAMta bhArata, cIna, jApAna, koriyA vagere trIsathI adhika dezonAM te te bhASAnAM gIto mukhya gAyake pahADI avAje, hAthamAM kAgaLa rAkhyA vinA, moDhe gAyAM. bhAratanAM gItomAM rAja kapUranAM calacitronAM "merA jUtA hai jApAnI', "merA nAma rAju' vagere gIto evI sarasa rIte gAyAM, ke mULa gAyakanI khoTa na varatAya. A badhAM gItomAM "IstaMbula - konsenTinopala' gIta paNa mane ghaNAM varSe sAMbhaLavA maLyuM. UMcA, bharAvadAra mUcho ane evA ja zarIravALA hasamukhA gAyakanA lahekA ane gItonI sajjatA mATe badhAne bahu mAna thayuM ane pratyeka gIte bahu tALIo paDI. ahIM jANe vizvabaMdhutvanI bhAvanAnuM vAtAvaraNa sarjAyuM hatuM. A mahephilano amane eka anokho anubhava thayo. bIje divase savAre boTamAM ame bosporasanI sahelagAhe nIkaLyAM. A sAmudradhunInA baMne kinAre AvelI aitihAsika ImAratono paricaya karAvAto gayo. ame trIseka kilomITara dUra tArAbiyA nAmanA nagara sudhI gayA. saramukhatyAra kamAla pAzAno samRddha mahela ame joyo. samudrakinAre e eka AlIzAna ImArata che. boTamAM pAchA pharIne ame IstaMbula baMdare UtaryA. ahIM pAse ja bajAramAM mIThAI-mevAnI hArabaMdha dukAno che. turkastAna eTale pistAMno deza. turkastAna, grIsa vagere dezomAM phaLadrupa jamIna, mAphakasara varasAda ane taDako tathA anukULa havAmAnane kAraNe pistAnAM vRkSo bahu che ane prativarSa pistAno mabalakha pAka thAya che. eTale pistAM ahIM sastAM maLe che. ahIM dukAnonI bahAra pistAM bharelA khullA kothaLA mUkavAmAM AvyA hatA. bahAra UbhelA dukAnonA selsamaeNno gharAkone potAnI dukAna tarapha kheMcavA mATe bUmAbUma karatA hatA. amAre pistAM kharIdavAM hatAM. eka dukAna pAse gayA to dukAnadAre tarata mUTho bharIne pistAM amane cAkhavA ApyAM. AvA bajAramAM AvIe tyAre ja khabara paDe ke aho, pistAmAM paNa keTalI badhI jAto che ! dukAnadAra udAratAthI cakhADe, ane be jAta vacceno pharaka IstaMbula - kosTenTinopala 49 81

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samajAve. ame amuka jAtanAM pistAM jokhAvyAM. daramiyAna amArAmAMnA eka pravAsIbhAI dukAnamAM anyatra rAkhelI pistAMnI mIThAI jotA hatA. dukAnadAranI udAratAthI prabhAvita thayelA temaNe cAkhavA mATe mIThAIno eka TukaDo hAthamAM lIdho tyAM to cakora dukAnadAre tarata jorathI ghAMTo pADyo, "mUkI do ane pAchI, cAkhavA mATe nathI. e bahu moMghI che." mIThAI tarata pAchI mukAI gaI. dukAnadAre samajAvyuM ke amuka prakAranI 'Tarkiza DilAITa' bahu moMghI Ave che. e cAkhavA na levAya. Tarkiza DilAITanI jema Tarkiza kaoNphI paNa suvikhyAta che. mATI jevI e kaoNphI banAvavAnI rIta judI ane e mATenAM vAsaNo paNa judAM hoya che. eno svAda barAbara mANavo hoya to e rIte ja kaoNphI ukALIne banAvavI joIe. ame thoDI kaoNphI paNa kharIdI. ahIM khADInA kinAre cogAnamAM pheriyAo jAtajAtanI cIjavastu videzI pravAsIne vecavA mATe AMTA mAratA hatA. jarAka rasa batAvIe to keDo na mUke. AsapAsa badhA vIMTaLAI vaLe. bhAvatAla ghaNo karavo paDe. amAre to kazuM kharIdavuM nahotuM, paraMtu amArAmAMnA keTalAkane pheriyA sAthe rakajhaka karavAmAM AnaMda Avato hato. pheriyAomAM paNa mAMhomAMhe spardhA cAlatI hatI. ardhavikasita dezonI A lAkSaNikatA che. amArAmAMnA eka pravAsIe Tarkiza bharatakAmavALI cAdara mATe bhAvatAla karyA paNa patyuM nahi. evAmAM amArI basa AvI eTale ame badhA pravAsI TapoTapa basamAM besavA lAgyA, kAraNa ke A basa vadhu vakhata UbhI rAkhI zakAya ema nahotuM. kiMmata kasavAmAM kuzaLa evA pelA sajjana bArI pAse besI haju pheriyA sAthe vATAghATa karatA rahyA. chevaTe sodo patyo. cAdara lIdhI paNa DaoNlara kADhavAmAM vAra lAgI. evAmAM basa UpaDI. pheriyo basanI sAthe doDyo, paraMtu paisA jhaTa cUkavAyA nahi. pheriyAe bUmAbUma karI, paNa basa signala oLaMgIne AgaLa pUrapATa cAlI. sAthe doDato pheriyo aMte nirAza thaIne bUmo pADato Ubho rahI gayo. kadAca potAnI bhASAmAM gALo paNa bhAMDato haze ! A vAtanI pravAsIomAM mAMhomAMhe khabara paDatAM badhAMe pheriyA mATe sahAnubhUti darzAvI. potAnI pAse chUTA DaoNlara nathI, moTI noTa che ema kahI kharIdanAra pravAsIe svabacAva karyo, paraMtu emanA caherA para vastu maphata meLavavA mATenI luccAIno AnaMda chUpo rahI zakato nahoto. pheriyo ane gharAka ema ubhayapakSe AvI ghaTanA keTalIka vAra bane che. amArI basa have "saMkana sisTarna" (Sunken Cistern - bhUgarbhanuM 82 - pravAsa-darzana

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TAMkuM) pAse pahoMcI. IstaMbulanI A eka anokhI racanA che. je kALe hegiyA sophiyAnuM bAMdhakAma thayuM te kALe, chaThThA saikAmAM romana sAmrAjyanA vakhatamAM A bhUgarbha TAMkAnuM bAMdhakAma thayeluM. varasAdanuM pANI bharI levA mATe gharamAM nIce TAMkuM karAvavAnI prathA jUnA vakhatamAM ApaNe tyAM paNa hatI. (amadAvAda, khaMbhAta, vaDodarA vagere zaheronAM jUnA vakhatanAM gharomAM haju paNa TAMkAM che.) unALAmAM TAMkAnuM pANI vaparAtuM. AkhA zahera mATe TAMkuM karAvavAno vicAra romana samrATa jasTiniyanane Avelo. IstaMbulanuM A bhUgarbha TAMkuM AkhI duniyAnuM moTAmAM moTuM TAMkuM che. te aDhIso phUTa pahoLuM ane sADAcAraso phUTa lAMbuM che. emAM 336 jeTalA staMbha che. varasAdanuM bahAra paDeluM pANI jamInamAM UtarI nIce TAMkAmAM AkhuM varasa divasarAta TapakatuM rahe che. TAMkAnA pANImAM eka cheDethI bIje cheDe javA mATe vacce UMcI pALI banAvelI che. ame pagathiyAM UtarI TAMkAmAM pharI AvyA ane thoDA bhIMjAyA paNa kharA. potAnI prajAnI sukhAkArI mATe samrATone kevI rAkSasI yojanAo sUjhatI ane sthApatyavido kevuM nakkara kAma karI ApatA ! TAMkAnuM pANI Aje vaparAtuM nathI, paNa pravAsI mATe aMdara prakAza ane saMgItanuM Ayojana karavAmAM AvyuM che. AkhA divasano kAryakrama pUro thayo eTale sAMje basa amArI hoTela para pAchI pharI. ame badhAM UtaratAM hatAM tyAM pelo pheriyo potAnA traNa dostAro sAthe basanA daravAjA pAse ja Ubho hato. pelA pravAsIbhAI UtaryA ke tarata eNe apamAnajanaka rADArADa cAlu karI. pravAsIe kharIdelI cAdara pAchI ApavA mAMDI te pheriyAe lIdhI nahi. aMte DaoNlara to ApavA paDyA, paNa te uparAMta pheriyAoe pravAsIne AMtarI rAkhIne TekSInA paisA paNa parANe paDAvyA. mANasane potAnI duvRttinuM pariNAma kyAreka tarata ja bhogavavAnuM Ave che. AsapAsanAM bIjAM keTalAMka sthaLoe pharIne ame IstaMbulanI vidAya lIdhI. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3) IstaMbula - konsenTinopala 83

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12 tAkaMdamAM (ujhabekistAna) soviyeTa yuniyananA A vakhatanA amArA pravAsamAM pahelo mukAma ujhabekistAnanA pATanagara tAkaMda (ujhabeka uccAra pramANe tozyanta athavA tAkenta)mAM hato. dilhIthI era inDiyAnA vimAnamAM savAre lagabhaga cha "vAge ame UpaDyA. traNa kalAkamAM to ame tAnkaMda pahoMcI gayA. sUryodayano samaya thaI gayo hato eTale Akhe raste amane vimAnanI bArImAMthI pUrvAkAzamAM kSitija upara sUryodaya dekhAyA karyo kAraNa ke bhAratanA samaya karatAM tAzkedano samaya aDhI kalAka vahelo hato. amAruM vimAna dilhIthI uttare himAlayanI parvatamALA oLaMgI ujhabekistAna pahoMcyuM hatuM. hajAro varSathI anullaMghanIya manAtI himAlayanI parvatamALAne ame eka kUdakAmAM (vimAnamAM) ullaMghI gayA. duniyAnA sarvocca zikhara evaresTathI paNa UMce A amAro kUdako hato. vijJAna kudarata upara kevo vijaya meLavatuM rahyuM che ! himAlayanI parvatamALA pachI kAyajhilakumanuM raNa dekhAyuM. duniyAnAM moTAM raNomAMnuM A eka raNa che. cAre bAju seMkaDo mAIla sudhI nAnAmoTA DuMgaro para patharAyelI sUkI retALa dharatI vimAnamAMthI dekhAtI hatI. arabI samudra, hiMdI mahAsAgara ane baMgALanA upasAgaramAMthI AvatAM vAdaLAM varasatA varasatAM chelle badhAM ja himAlayamAM varasI jAya che. pariNAme himAlayanI pAchaLanI uttaranI bAju varasAdanuM nAmanizAna na maLe. lIlA 84 9 pravAsa-darzana

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ghAsanuM eka taNakhaluM paNa na UgyuM hoya. A raNanuM dazya najare nihALIe. to lAge ke page cAlIne jema himAlaya na ullaMghI zakAya tema A raNa paNa na ullaMghI zakAya. amAruM vimAna tAzkedanA vimAnI mathake UtaryuM. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM kasTamanI cakAsaNI ghaNI kaDaka thatI. ethI vAra lAgI, paNa amAre pakSe badhuM vyavasthita hatuM eTale kazo vAMdho na Avyo. pravAsIonA amArA grupanI bhAratIya gAiDa hatI pArasI yuvatI kumArI rozana khaMbhAtI. te ghaNI hoziyAra, jANakAra ane cabarAka hatI. yuropa, amerikA, jApAna, siMgApura vagere dezomAM gAiDa tarIke te ghaNI vAra jaI AvI hatI. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM tAzkedamAM te pahelI vAra AvatI hatI. AvI taka potAne maLI eno ene ghaNo ja AnaMda hato. videzonA pravAsonA anubhavane lIdhe te ghaNI kAbela thaI gaI hatI. enA avAjamAM raheluM abhimAna ane jabarApaNuM thoDA paricayamAM ja jaNAI Ave evuM hatuM. koIkane to e kaThe evuM paNa hatuM. amane eNrapaoNrTa para levA AvanAra ujhabeka gAiDanuM nAma hatuM mumina athavA momina. paricita lAge evuM e nAma hatuM. te muslima hato. ujhabekistAnanI badhI vastI musalamAna hatI. paNa soviyeTa yuniyanamAM dharmane lagabhaga tilAMjali apAI hatI te ahIM ujhabekistAnamAM paNa jovA maLI. ame basamAM beThA. 1967nA bhAre vinAzaka dharatIkaMpa pachI pharI vaselA tAzkedamAM raLiyAmaNA rastAo pasAra thatI amArI basa hoTela para AvI pahoMcI. hoTelanuM nAma paNa "ujhabekistAna' hatuM. tAzkedanI sauthI moTI hoTelomAMnI te eka hatI. tAnkaMda zahera bhAratavAsIomAM jeTaluM jANItuM che eTaluM duniyAnA bIjA ghaNA dezomAM nahi hoya. bhArata ane pAkistAna vacce thayelA yuddhamAM soviyeTa yuniyananI madhyasthIthI bhArate suleha karI hatI. sulehamaMtraNA mATenI beThaka tAzkedamAM yojAI hatI. bhAratanA te samayanA vaDApradhAna zrI lAlabahAdura zAstrI emAM bhAga levA tAkaMda gayA hatA. maMtraNAne aMte, bhArata pAchA AvatAM pahelAM, AgalI rAtre akaLa saMjogomAM emanuM acAnaka avasAna thayuM. lAlabahAdura zAstrInA mRtyuno bheda sattAvAra rIte kyAreya ukelAyo nahi. mAtra anumAno thayAM karyA. paraMtu e AghAtajanaka, tAnkaMdamAM * 85

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ghero zoka janmAvanArI ghaTanAe tAnkaMdane duniyAnA nakazAmAM jANItuM karI dIdhuM. tAnkaMda vagovAyuM, paNa potAnI apakIrtinuM sATuM vALavA eNe prayatna karyo. tAzkedamAM eka sthaLe lAlabahAdura zAstrInI ardhapratimA mUkavAmAM AvI che ane eka rastAne 'lAlabahAdura zAstrI sTrITa' evuM nAma ApavAmAM AvyuM che. lAlabahAdura zAstrInI A ghaTanA ApaNane bhAratavAsIone jeTalI sparze teTalI tAkaeNdavAsIone na sparze e dekhItuM che. eTale ja khuda tAzkedanA ghaNA rahevAsIone A pratimA ke sTrITa kyAM AvyAM che tenI khabara paNa nathI. Azare pacIsa lAkhanI vastI dharAvatuM tAzkeda madhya (Central) eziyAnuM moTAmAM moTuM zahera che. raNavistAramAM ciracika nAmanI nAnI nadI pAse AvelA phaLadrupa pradeza (Oasis - raNadvIpa)mAM TheTha sAtamA saikAthI vaseluM tAzkeda aitihAsika zahera che. kapAsa ane sUko mevo e enuM mukhya utpAdana rahyuM che. vepArI mathaka tarIke ane saMskAra kendra tarIke tAzkedanI khyAti jUnA vakhatathI eTalI badhI rahI che ke AThamA saikAmAM Araboe caDAI karI enA upara varcasva jamAvyuM hatuM. teramA saikAmAM moMgoliyAthI AvIne caMgejhakhAne ene jItI lIdhuM hatuM. caudamA saikAmAM taimuralene eno kabajo lIdho hato. 1865mAM raziyAe ene potAnAmAM bheLavI dIdhuM hatuM. Ama tAzkeda upara paDozI rAjyono DoLo rahyo karyo e enI mahattA darzAve che. prAcIna samayathI ujhabeka saMskRti ane saMskAranA kendra tarIke khyAti pAmeluM tAkaMda vartamAna samayamAM paNa keLavaNInA kSetre pragatizIla nagarI gaNAya che. tAzkedanA nagaradarzananA kAryakramamAM ame prAcIna kalAkRtionuM saMgrahasthAna joyuM, graMthAlayo joyAM, lenina skaveramAM ane phrenDazipa skaveramAM keTalAMka aitihAsika sthaLo tathA smArako joyAM, lAlabahAdura zAstrInI pratimA joI. sAMje ame eka raziyana bele paNa joI AvyA. keTalAka bhUgarbha relavemAM paNa pharI AvyA. jamIne ame amArI rUmamAM beThA hatA. AkhA divasano thAka lAgyo hato eTale sUvAnI taiyArI karatA hatA. tyAM bAraNA upara Takoro paDyo. eka bhAI AvyA hatA. sAthe eka bhAratIya yuvAna paNa hato. e bhAIe kahyuM, "A bhAIno nIce laoNnjamAM ja paricaya thayo. teo ahIM ja rahe che. inDiyAthI ahIM bhaNavA AvyA che. teo madada karI zake ema che. 86 * pravAsa-darzana

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ahIM baeNnkamAM eka DaoNlarano pUro eka rUbala (raziyana calaNa) paNa maLato nathI. teo ApaNane eka DaoNlaranA ATha rUbala apAvI zake tema che. badhI javAbadArI emanI.' ' kahyuM, "mAro niyama che ke A rIte gerakAyade videzI calaNa kyAreya levuM nahi. emAM paNa videzamAM AvuM sAhasa karavAnI salAha huM koIne na ApuM. pachI to jevI jenI marajI.' - ame nA pADI eTale e bhAI pelA yuvAnane laIne bIjA pravAsIonI rUmamAM gayA. keTalAke DaoNlara e rIte vaTAvyA paNa kharA. jyAMthI vadhu dhana maLatuM hoya te tarapha khecAvAnI vRtti manuSyamAM sahaja rIte paDelI che. be divasa tAkaMda ane enI AsapAsanA pradeza joyA pachI trIje divase savAre amane sUkA mevAnI mArkeTamAM laI javAno kAryakrama hato. A bAjunA sUkA pradezamAM sUko mevo jAtajAtano thAya che. "mArkeTamAM vepArIo jamIna para moTA moTA DhagalA pAtharIne beThA hoya. chApAMnA kAgaLamAM paDIkAM bAMdhIne Ape. bhAva paNa bahu sasto. giradIno pAra nahi. jovA jevuM gAmaThI dazya lAge. amArI basa mArkeTanA nAkA pAse UbhI rahI. momina amane badhAne dorI javAno hato. ame UtaratA hatA tyAM be ujhabekI mANasoe izAro karyo. eka DaoNlaranA dasa rUbala teo ApatA hatA. amArA grupamAMthI be jaNe jhaDapathI rUbala lIdhA ane mArkeTa tarapha cAlyA. soviyeTa yuniyana jevA kaDaka rASTramAM paNa mANaso videzI calaNano gerakAyade vepAra kare e joIne amane Azcarya thayuM. dhana meLavavAnI adamya vRtti mANasa pAse kyAre khoTuM kAma karAvaze te kahI zakAya nahi. jema jema AMtararASTriya vyavahAra vadhato gayo che tema tema videzI mudrAno sattAvAra ane bekAnUna vepAra paNa vadhato cAlyo che. amArA pravAsI grupamAM eka dakSiNa bhAratIya sajjana paNa hatA. teo khoTuM aMgrejI bolatA ane te bolavAnI emanI laDhaNa paNa dakSiNa bhAratIya prakAranI hatI. videzanA pravAse teo pahelI vAra nIkaLyA hatA. teo prakRtie svArthI hatA ane paisAnI gaNatarIvALA hatA. eTale emanI sAthe bhaLavA koI rAjIkhuzIthI taiyAra thatuM nahi. misTara suMdaram emanuM nAma hatuM, paNa keTalAka emane bolAvatI vakhate majAkamAM "misTara asuMdaram evI rIte bolatA ke emane khabara na paDe, paNa samajanAra samajI jAya. tAzkedamAM 49 87

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mi. suMdaram basamAM chellI beThaka para beThA hatA. sUkA mevAnA bajAramAMthI teo kazuM kharIdavA icchatA nahotA eTale basamAM ja besI rahyA hatA. paNa jevI khabara paDI ke eka DaoNlaranA AThane badale dasa rUbala maLe che ke tarata emaNe dasa DaoNlaranI noTa rozanane ApI rUbala maMgAvyA. rozane basamAMthI UtarI e noTa pelA mANasane ApI. e so rUbalanI noTo gaNato hato tyAM to acAnaka DaoNlaranI noTa jamIna para pheMkI daIne e bhAgyo. eno sAthIdAra paNa doDI gayo. rozane DaoNlaranI noTa upADI laIne basamAM AvI suMdaramane pAchI ApI dIdhI. rozana basamAMthI pAchI UtaravA jAya tyAM be polIse ene pakaDI. basanA DrAivare ujhabeka bhASAmAM polIse pUchelA praznonA uttara ApyA. rozane suMdarasUnuM nAma ApyuM. suMdaram nAmakkara gayA. rozane emanA para gusso karyo, paNa have javAbadArI rozana para AvI. ame mArkeTamAM jaIne pAchA AvyA tyAre basanI AsapAsa ToLuM jAmI gayuM hatuM. zI ghaTanA banI che te tarata samajAyuM nahi. bhASAno prazna paNa kharo. basamAM beThA pachI thoDoka khayAla Avyo. gAiDa momine polIsone emanI ujhabeka bhASAmAM samajAvyA ane chevaTe amArI basa AgaLanA kAryakramo mATe UpaDI. te divase rAtre nava vAge be soviyeTa guptacaro dubhASiyAne laIne amArI hoTela para AvyA hatA. rozanane bolAvavAmAM AvI. nIce lonjamAM eka pAradarzaka kAcavALI kaeNbinamAM rozananI pUchaparacha thaI rahI hatI. dhIme dhIme badhA pravAsIomAM vAta prasarI gaI. koI koI lonjamAM AMTo mArI cUpacApa joI AvyA. doDheka kalAka pUchaparacha cAlI haze. rozana jorajorathI bolatI hoya ema lAgyuM. guptacaro nivedana laI vidAya thayA. ame keTalAka mitro zuM thAya che enI utsukatAthI rAha joI laoNnjanA eka khUNAmAM beThA hatA. rozana tyAM AvI. eNe kahyuM, "meM guptacarone spaSTa kahI dIdhuM ke ame TUrisTa chIe. tamArA dezanA kAyadAnI amane khabara nathI. tame tamArA mANasone khoTuM karatAM kema aTakAvatA nathI ? tamArI pharaja che emane aTakAvavAnI. amane paradezIone zI khabara paDe ?' koI moTo vijaya meLavyo hoya evo ruAba rozananA caherA para jaNAto hato. eNe kahyuM, "meM e lokone evA dabaDAvyA ke bicArA bolI zuM zake ?" 88 9 pravAsa-darzana

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DaoNlara-rUbalanuM prakaraNa patI gayuM eTale ame badhA nizcita thaIne sUtA. savAre ame soviyeTa yuniyananA anya nagaronA pravAse UpaDI gayA. daseka divasano pravAsa pUro karI ame dilhI javA pharI tAnkaMda AvI e ja hoTelamAM UtaryA. rAtre ArAma karI savAre eNra inDiyAnuM vimAna amAre pakaDavAnuM hatuM. ame potapotAnI rUmamAM pravAsanA anubhavo vAgoLatA hatA. eTalAmAM amArA rUmamAM phonanI ghaMTaDI vAgI. eka sahapravAsIe samAcAra ApyA ke soviyeTa guptacaro AvyA che ane rozana tathA mi. suMdaramune nIce laI gayA che. amane ciMtAjanaka Azcarya thayuM. je vAta amAre mana patI gaI hatI eno keDo guptacaroe mUkyo nahoto. amArA pAchA pharavAnI teo rAha joI rahyA hatA. ame laoNnjamAM AMTo mAravA gayA. dUrathI najara karI. rozana DhIlI hatI. suMdaram nIcuM moDhuM karIne besI rahyA hatA. kAunTara uparathI amane jANavA maLyuM ke je be ujhabeka mANasoe DaoNlararUbalano sodo karyo hato teone pakaDI pADavAmAM AvyA hatA. teoe pote lIdhelA DaoNlaranI kabUlAta karI lIdhI hatI. AthI je be jaNe amArAmAMthI rUbala lIdhA hatA temanA manamAM gabharATa cAlu thayo. teo AghApAchA thaI gayA. lagabhaga be kalAka pUchaparacha cAlI paNa koIne choDavAmAM AvyAM nahotAM, thoDe dUrathI najara karatAM jaNAyuM ke rozana have dhrusake dhrusake raDI rahI hatI. suMdaram paNa sUnamUna thaI gayA hatA. tyAM vaLI amane samAcAra maLyA ke era inDiyAnA menejarane bolAvavAmAM AvyA che. AvatI kAlanI amArI saphara kadAca rada thAya. ame sau ciMtAtura banI gayA. tyAM to tAkaMda khAtenA bhAratanA kaoNnsala janaralane paNa bolAvavAmAM AvyA. gerakAyade DaoNlara vaTAvavAnI nAnI vAte ghaNuM moTuM rUpa pakaDyuM. ame anizcitatAnA vamaLamAM phasAyA. chevaTe kaoNnsala janarale guptacarone khAtarI ApI, eNra inDiyAnA menejare bhalAmaNa karI, rozana ane suMdarame lekhita mAphI ApI eTale teo baMnene choDavAmAM AvyAM. je be ujhabeka nAgarikoe DaoNlara laI rUbala ApyA hatA temane to sajA thaze ja, paNa amArI ciMtA TaLI. 2DIraDIne rozanano cahero sUjI gayo hato. amArI koInI sAthe vAta karavA te UbhI na rahI. rUmamAM jaIne te sUI gaI, paNa AkhI rAta ene UMgha nathI AvI ema savAre jANavA maLyuM. tAzkedamAM jha9 89

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savAre samaya thatAM ame sau potapotAnA sAmAna sAthe laoNnjamAM AvI gayA. basa AvatAM temAM goThavAyA. eNrapaoNrTa AvIne badhI vidhi patAvI vimAnanI rAha jotAM beThA. have rozananI jIbha UghaDI. potAnI haiyAvarALa ThAlavatAM te bolI, "soviyeTa yuniyananA adhikArIo taddana nAlAyaka che. kAgano vAgha karyo. teo buddhinA bela jevA che. eTaluM samaje nahi ke huM to eka gAiDa chuM. meM kaMI thoDA rUbala kharIdyA che ? mArA jevI eka mahilAne satAvatAM teone jarA paNa zarama naDI nahi. meM to have pratijJA lIdhI che ke jiMdagImAM bIjI vAra soviyeTa yuniyanamAM paga mUkavo nahi." rozanano ukaLATa ane kakaLATa samajI zakAya evA hatA. gAiDa tarIke ene jiMdagImAM eka navo pATha zIkhavA maLyo hato. suMdaram pAse dakSiNa bhAratIya svarabhAra sahita "baTTa' (But)thI zarU thatuM enuM e ja vAkya pharIpharIne bolavA sivAya bIjuM kazuM hatuM nahi. era inDiyAnA amArA vimAne tAzkedanI dharatI choDI tyAre sauthI vadhu rAhata rozane anubhavI hatI. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) 90 9 pravAsa-darzana

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13 samarakaMda (ujhabekistAna) ujhabekistAnano pravAsa karIe ane samarakaMda na joIe to AgrA jaIne tAjamahAla joyA vagara pAchA pharyA jevuM gaNAya. tAzkeda, samarakaMda ane bukhArA (athavA bokhIro) e ujhabekistAnanI traNa prAcIna nagarIo che. e traNemAM samarakaMda sauthI vadhu prAcIna ane itihAsasabhara che. A nagarIoe kALanA pravAhamAM sukhasamRddhinI choLo UDatI joI che ane lohInI nadIo paNa vahetI joI che. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM jyAre pramukha gorbIceva sattAsthAna para hatA tyAre ame samarakaMdanA pravAse gayA hatA. tAzkedathI lagabhaga poNAtraNaso kilomITara dUra AvelI, Azare cAra lAkhanI vastI dharAvatI nagarI samarakaMdamAM "samarakaMda' nAmanI hoTelamAM ame UtaryA hatA. samarakaMdamAM nagaradarzananA kAryakrama mATe ame joDAyA. basamAM besI ame UpaDyA. amArA gAiDanuM nAma hatuM zAkhoba. basa cAlI ane zAkhobe samarakaMdano paricaya Apyo. itihAsa na jANatA hoIe to mAnI na zakIe ke samarakaMda traNa hajAra varSathI vadhu prAcIna nagarI che. keTalAMka varSa pahelAM A jagyAe ujhabeka purAtattva vibhAga taraphathI jamInamAM paMdarathI vIsa phUTa UMDe khodakAma karavAmAM AvatAM mAnavahADakAM, mATInAM ThIkarAM, dhAtunI cIjavastuo, ghareNAM ane temAM jaDelAM kImatI naMga, paththarane dhAradAra banAvI temAMthI banAvelAM ojAro vagere je maLyAM temanI vaijJAnika samarakaMda 9 91

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paddhatithI kAlagaNanA karavAmAM AvI che. e uparathI jaNAya che ke samarakaMda bAreka hajAra varSa pahelAMnI paththarayuganI nagarI hovI joIe. madhya eziyAmAM raNavistAramAM A jagyAe nagara vasAvavAnuM mukhya kAraNa te enI phaLadrupa jamIna che. jhAravazA nadInA khINapradezamAM AveluM A sthaLa vRkSo ane gIca vanarAjithI hariyALuM che. ahIM pANInI chUTa che. khetInI anukULatA che. gheTAM, haraNa, UMTa, ghoDA vagere pazuo ane jAtajAtanAM pakSIothI A pradeza sabhara che. paraMtu e badhAM uparAMta cAre bAju TekarIo AvelI hovAthI kudarate ja jANe ene vizALa killA jevI racanA karI ApI che. eTale prAcIna kALanI lazkarI STie paNa A surakSita sthaLa che. bhUmadhya samudrathI TheTha cIna sudhI jatA kAcA dhorI mArgane joDatuM samarakaMda madhya eziyAnuM saMgamasthAna manAtuM hatuM. samarakaMdano eka artha thAya che milanasthAna. enuM prAcIna nAma marakaMda e maragaMda hatuM. pachI samarakaMda banyuM. TheTha prAcIna kALathI atyaMta samRddha rahelI A nagarI upara elekjhAnDara, caMgIjha khAna ane taimuralena jevA samrAToe vijaya meLavavAno prayAsa karyo hato ane potAnA sainikonI bhAre khuvArInA bhoge paNa enA upara kabajo meLavyo hato e ja enI mahattA darzAve che. samarakaMdano jUnAmAM jUno ullekha I.sa. pUrve 329no maLe che. elekjhAnDara lAkho sainikone laIne paMdara divasamAM hiMdukuza parvata oLaMgIne soDiyAnA nAmanA pradezanA samarakaMda zahera para caDI Avyo hato. sthAnika bahAdura prajAe bhAre sAmano karyo hato. traNeka varSa yuddha cAlyuM hatuM. eka lAkha karatAM vadhu sainiko mAryA gayA hatA. chevaTe elekUjhAnDare sama2kaMda upara vijaya meLavyo hato. ghaNAM varSa sudhI meseDoniyA bekTriyAnA sAmrAjyanA eka bhAga tarIke rahyA pachI elekjhAnDaranA mRtyu bAda samarakaMda chUTuM paDyuM ane sthAnika rAjAnA hAthamAM AvyuM. I.sa.nI pahelI zatAbdImAM te kuzAna sAmrAjyano eka bhAga banyuM. AThamA saikAmAM Araboe enA para caDAI karI ane jIta meLavI. tyArathI samarakaMda muslima saMskRtinuM eka moTuM kendra banyuM. tyAra bAda judA judA vaMzanA rAjAoe enA para vakhatovakhata rAja karyuM. I.sa.nA teramA saikAmAM moMgola samrATa krUra ceMgIjha khAne samarakaMda upara moTI caDAI karI. enA sainikoe samarakaMda upara vijaya meLavyo. baMne pakSe ghaNI moTI khuvArI thaI eTaluM ja nahi, caMgIjha khAnanA sainikoe samarakaMdamAM strIo ane bALako sahita tamAma mANasone raheMsI nAkhyA. 92 * pravAsa-darzana

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ghaNo moTo mAnavasaMhAra thayo. eka lAkha karatAM vadhu mANaso mRtyu pAmyAM haze. jeo bhAgI chUTyA te bacyAM. sainikoe samarakaMdamAM lUMTa calAvI, Aga lagADI. kALo kera vartAvI teo bhAgI gayA. samarakaMdamAM lohInI nadIo vahI. mahinAo sudhI mAMsabhakSI pakSI UDatAM rahyAM. AkhuM nagara, smazAna jevuM ane durgadhamaya banI gayuM. keTalAMka varSo pachI samarakaMda pharI vasavA lAgyuM. parziyAnA rAjAe A AkhA pradeza upara varcasva jamAvyuM. eka pachI eka rAjAo AvatA gayA. isvIsananA paMdaramA saikAmAM taimuralene bhArata upara caDAI karI ane uttarano pradeza jItI lIdho. tyAra pachI eNe jyorjiyA para caDAI karI. Ama, volgA nadIthI gaMgA nadInA pradeza upara prabhutva dharAvanAra taimuralena tyAra pachI madhya eziyA upara vijaya meLavavA nIkaLyo. enA sainikoe cAre bAju bhAre saMhAra karyo. taimuralena kaheto ke "AkAzamAM jema allAha eka ja che, tema pRthvI para eka ja samrATa hovo joIe, ane te samrATa huM pote chuM.' taimuralenanI ghaNI begamo hovAthI enA putro ane pautro paNa ghaNA hatA. teo badhA baLavAna ane parAkramI hatA. teo badhA judI judI dizAmAM judA judA pradezo upara varcasva jamAvatA jatA hatA. AthI enuM sAmrAjya ghaNuM vistAra pAmyuM. samarakaMda upara vijaya meLavyA pachI eNe samarakaMdane potAnuM kAyamI nivAsasthAna banAvyuM. madhya eziyAnI rAjadhAnI samarakaMda rahyuM. alabatta, taimuranI sarahadI mahatvAkAMkSA atRpta rahetI. navA navA dUradUranA pradezo upara vijaya meLavavA mATe sainikone laIne pahoMcI javAnI enI dhagaza adamya hatI. paraMtu ema karatAM eka yuddhamAM te mAryo gayo. tyAre enI uMmara pacAseka varSanI hatI. taimuranA mRtyu pachI samarakaMdanA rAjyane sthira ane sudaDha karavAmAM mahattvanuM kArya karyuM enI gAdIe AvelA pautra ulughabeke (athavA ulughabereke). taimurano eka pautra te bAbara hato. te potAnA sainiko sAthe bhArata para caDI Avyo. dilhImAM eNe potAnI saltanata sthApI. e pachI te dilhImAM ja sthira thayo. ulughabake samarakaMdane samRddha karyuM. eno rAjyakALa te sukhazAntino kALa hato. ulughabekamAM bAdazAha karatAM paMDitanA guNo vadhAre hatA. rAjyasImA vistAravAne badale eNe potAnI jJAnasImA vistArI. ene gaNitazAstra, khagoLazAstra ane tattvajJAnamAM vadhu rasa hato. eNe samarakaMda - 93

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samarakaMdamAM madresA(vidyAzALA)nI sthApanA karI. e pote vidyArthIone bhaNAvavA lAgyo hato. enI madresAmAM tyAra pachI ghaNA tejasvI vidyArthIo bhaNavA AvyA hatA ke jeo kavi ke tattvaciMtaka tarIke taiyAra thayA hatA. AMtararASTriya khyAti dharAvanAra kavi-philasUpha umara khaiyAme samarakaMdanI madresAmAM rahIne abhyAsa karyo hato. soLamA saikAmAM ujhabeka lokoe samarakaMda upara kabajo jamAvyo. aDhAramA saikAmAM bukhArAnA amIre samarakaMda upara vijaya meLavyo. ogaNIsamA saikAmAM raziyana lokoe te upara jIta meLavI. soviyeTa yuniyananI sthApanA pachI samarakaMda ujhabekistAnanuM pATanagara banyuM. 1930 pachI pATanagara tarIke tAkaMdane sthAna maLatAM samarakaMdanuM mahattva ghaTyuM. amArA gAiDa zAkhobe kahyuM, "ujhabekistAna soviyeTa yuniyanamAM joDAyuM te pachI enI pragati ghaNI thaI che. samarakaMdanI to jANe kAyApalaTa ja thaI gaI" navuM samarakaMda vasyuM. moTA moTA rastAo ane UMcAM UMcAM makAno thayAM. skUlo, kaoNlejo, yunivarsiTIo, lAibrerI, myujhiyama, bajAro udyogo, hoTelo, haoNspiTalo, udyAno, relave sTezano, raheThANanAM makAno vagere badhuM ja navA vistAramAM navesarathI thayuM. relave sTezana pAse eka moTA UMcA paththara para leninanuM pUtaLuM mUkavAmAM AvyuM ane e vistAranuM nAma lenina khuvera rAkhavAmAM AvyuM. bIjAM paNa keTalAMka smArako karavAmAM AvyAM. A rIte samarakaMdamAM jUnuM samarakaMda ane navuM samarakaMda evA be vibhAga paDI gayA. samarakaMdanAM judAM judAM sthaLonI ame mulAkAta lIdhI. zAkhoba darekano itihAsa samajAvato jAya. samarakaMdanI prajA ekaMdare sukhI lAgI, topaNa jUnA samarakaMdamAM gAmane chevADe mATInAM jUnAM nAnAM nAnAM gharomAM rahetA lokone joIne lAgyuM ke teo Arthika dRSTi ghaNA pachAta che. roTI, kapaDAM, ane makAna teone maLyAM che, paNa temanA jIvanamAM koI teja jaNAyuM nahi . samarakaMdamAM jovA jevuM sauthI vadhu mahattvanuM prAcIna aitihAsika sthaLa te "registAna khuvera' che. registAna eTale retIno pradeza. A atyaMta vizALa cokamAM ApaNI najara sAme traNa vizALa uttuMga, kalAtmaka imArato traNa dizAbhimukha aDoaDa AvelI che. ApaNI DAbI bAjunI ane jamaNI bAjunI imAratanA daravAjA sAmasAme paDe che ane ApaNI sAmI bAjunI imAratano daravAjo ApaNI sanmukha dekhAya che. prathama najare ja cittane 94 * pravAsa-darzana

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jakaDI rAkhe evI uttega ane saundaryamaMDita A imArato che. keTalA badhA vizALa pAyA para enA nakazAo taiyAra thayA haze ! kharekhara, AnuM Ayojana karanArane dhanyavAda ApavAnuM mana thaI jAya. paMdaramA saikAmAM samarakaMdamAM sthApatyakalA keTalI badhI vikasI hatI enI e pratIti karAve che. mastaka khAssI vAra UMcuM rAkhIne avalokana karIe to ja saMtoSa thAya. IMTa, cIkaNI mATI, moTAmoTA paththaro, camakatI raMgaberaMgI cInI mATInI lAdIo, phUlavelanI ane bhaumitika AkRtionuM sAmaMjasya, suvarNano opa apAyelAM keTalAMka citrAMkano - A badhAMne kAraNe enuM kalAsaundarya anupamI banI rahyuM che. emAM enA cAramAMthI avaziSTa rahelA be minArAo ane uparathI kamAna AkAranA bhavya UMcA daravAjAo enA saundaryamAM abhivRddhi kare che. e jotAM ja mANasa bhUtakALamAM khovAI jAya che. A traNa sthApatyakRtio che : (1) ulaghabeka masA (2) zeradora madresA ane (3) tilyA-kArI madresA. ulughabeka madresAnuM bAMdhakAma paMdaramA saikAmAM thayuM che. enI nakala jevI bIjI be madresAonuM bAMdhakAma sattaramA saikAmAM thayuM che. paraMtu ulughabeka madrasA jevuM saundarya pachIthI thayelI be madresAomAM jovA maLatuM nathI. ulughabeka madresAmAM pacAsa jeTalA vizALa khaMDo che. ahIM vidyArthIo mATe rahevA-bhaNavAnI vyavasthA hatI. dUradUrathI vidyArthIo ahIM vidyAbhyAsa mATe AvatA. khuda ulughabeka pote paNa vidyArthIone bhaNAvato. rAjA pote vidyAguru hoya evo virala samanvaya ulughabekamAM jovA maLyo che. registAna cokamAM AvelI A traNe imArato eTalI badhI UMcI, vizALa ane bhavya che ke caoNkamAM UbhelA vicArazIla mANasane pote kadamAM keTalo badho nAno che teno anubhava thayA vagara rahe nahi. A masAo have vaparAza vinAnI, sUnI ane jarjarita thaI gaI che, paraMtu atyAre paNa jo eno ATalo badho prabhAva paDato hoya to jyAre e taiyAra thaI gaI haze, navI haze ane vidyArthIo emAM abhyAsa karatA haze, zAhI kuTuMbo emAM vasatAM haze, cokIdAro cokI karatA haze ane lokonI ghaNI badhI avarajavara rahetI haze tyAre enuM kevuM jIvaMta vAtAvaraNa lAgatuM haze ! ahIM UbhA hoIe to bhUtakALanAM e dazyo najara samakSa taravaravA lAge che. prakAza ane dhvani (Light and Sound)nA kAryakrama dvArA enI jIvaMtatAnI ahIM jhAMkhI karAvavAmAM Ave che. samarakaMda 9 95

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potAne vizvavijetA kahevaDAvanAra taimuralene potAnA zilpIo ane sthApatyakalAvidone badhe mokalIne tathA pote najare joyuM hoya temAMthI pasaMda karIne duniyAnI zreSTha imArato karatAM paNa vadhu caDiyAtI imArato samarakaMdamAM bAMdhavAnA Adezo ApI dIdhA hatA. bhArata, ijipta, grIsa, jyorjiyA vagere ghaNe sthaLethI seMkaDo zilpIo, ijanero, kArIgaro, baLavAna majUro vagerene pakaDIne samarakaMda laI AvavAmAM AvyA hatA. seMkaDo mAIla dUrathI moTA moTA paththaro majUro dvArA lAvavAmAM AvatA. taimuralene samarakaMdamAM sthira thayA pachI ghaNI judI judI imArato baMdhAvI. hajAro mANaso dvArA Akho divasa kAma cAlatuM. pAMceka varSamAM to ghaNI imArato UbhI thaI gaI. emAMnI eka te bIbI khanimanI masjIda che. nIlaraMgI ane vizALa ghumaMTa dUrathI paNa dhyAna kheMcyA vagara rahe nahi. durbhAgye taimuranA potAnA jIvanakALa daramyAna ja A masjida jarjarita thavA lAgI hatI. samarakaMdamAM Adhunika samayamAM jamInamAMthI khodI kADhavAmAM AveluM eka aitihAsika sthaLa te ulughabekanI khagoLanirIkSaNa mATenI prayogazALA che. eka raziyana vaijJAnika vyATakine ulubekanA jIvanano UMDo abhyAsa karyo. e upa2thI tene khAtarI thaI ke ulughabake kyAMya potAnI prayogazALA (ApaNA jaMtaramaMtara jevI racanA) banAvI hovI joIe. eNe judI judI jagyAe khodakAma karI, bhoMyarAM banAvI chevaTe paMdaravIsa phUTa nIce daTAyelI AkhI prayogazALA, varSonI mahenata pachI zodhI kADhI. soviyeTa sarakAre enA A projekTa mATe Arthika sahAya karI. A prayogazALA have ApaNe joI zakIe chIe. ulughabeke potAnA madadanIzonI sahAya laI Teliskopa vinAnA e jamAnAmAM, narI AMkhe nirIkSaNa karIne AkAzanA 1800 jeTalA tArAonI noMdha karI che. tArAo, nakSatro vagerenI gatinAM nirIkSaNanA AdhAre ulughabeke eka varSa barAbara 365 divasa, 6 kalAka, 10 miniTa ane 8 sekanDa evuM mApa kADhyuM hatuM. AjanuM vijJAna kahe che ke eka varSa barAbara 365 divasa, 6 kalAka, 8 miniTa ane 8.5 saeNkanDa. eTale ulughabeke kareluM e jamAnAnuM saMzodhana keTaluM badhuM cokasAIbharyuM hatuM tenI pratIti thAya che. raziyana vaijJAnika vyATakane jIvanabhara ahIM rahIne A saMzodhana karyuM. enI bhAvanA evI hatI ke potAnA mRtyu pachI potAnA mRtadehane A prayogazALAnA cogAnamAM ja daphanAvavAmAM Ave ane e pramANe sa2kAre 96 * pravAsa-darzana

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enI bhAvanA anusAra enI daphanavidhi ahIM karI hatI. ' rANA hoya ke rAjA, chatrapati hoya ke cakravartI, bAdazAha hoya ke zahenazAha, mRtyu koIne choDatuM nathI, paraMtu rAjA-bAdazAha ke tenA parivArane bALavA-daphanAvavA mATe alAyadI, vizALa, viziSTa jagyA rAkhavAnI ane tyAM smAraka rUpe imArata bAMdhavAnI paraMparA prAcIna kALathI cAlI Ave che. samarakaMdamAM evI jagyA te "gurI-amIra" che. gurI eTale kabara, amIra (emira) eTale bAdazAha (athavA bAdazAhanA parivAranA sabhya). taimuralene potAnA dharmaguru mira saiyada bereka mATe A makabaro karAvyo hato. eTale gurIamIra "guramira' tarIke paNa oLakhAya che. i.sa. 1403mAM taimurano eka vahAlo pautra mahamada sulatAna eka yuddhamAM haNAyo hato. taimure enA zabane gurIamIramAM daphanAvyuM hatuM. A jagyAe eka moTI bhavya imArata bAMdhavA mATe eNe Adeza Apyo hato. gherA vAdaLI raMganI camakatI lAdInI DijhAinavALo, UMDA AMkAvALo ghuMmaTa A makabarA para karavAmAM Avyo hato. 140pamAM taimuranuM mRtyu thatAM enA zabane paNa ahIM ja daphanAvavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. taimuranA bIjA be putronAM zabane tathA paMDita pautra ulughabekanA zabane paNa ahIM ja daphanAvavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. e rIte A makabaro aitihAsika che, paNa enA zilpasthApatyanuM lAlitya eTalI UMcI koTinuM che ke keTalAye kavioe gurIamIra upara kavitA lakhI che. - I.sa. 1914mAM ujhabeka ekeDemInA vaijJAnikone taimuranI ane ulughabekanI kabara khodavAnI sarakArI paravAnagI maLI. e khodakAma thatAM emAMthI nIkaLela khoparI sahitanAM hADapiMjara uparathI e baMnenI dehAkRti kevI haze teno abhyAsa karIne vaijJAnikoe tevI AkRtio banAvI ane pachI hADapiMjara pAchAM daphanAvI devAmAM AvyAM. samarakaMdamAM mane gameluM bIjuM eka sthaLa te kavionuM udyAna che. A Adhunika racanA che. A hariyALA ramaNIya udyAnamAM eka moTI laMbacorasa zilA upara ujhabekistAnanA cAra kavio sAmasAme beThA che, be palAMThI vALIne ane be vIrAsanamAM. teo vAjiMtra sAthe potAnI kavitA gAI rahyA che. mUchadADhIvALA prauDha kavioe sakhata ThaMDImAM paherAya evA jADA lAMbA DagalA paherelA che. mAthe pAghaDI ke moTI TopI che. samarakaMda potAnA kavionuM A rIte kareluM gaurava anumodanIya ane anukaraNIya che. grenAiTa paththaramAM kaMDAravAmAM AvelI evI bIjI eka zilpAkRti samarakaMda - 97

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te ujhabeka ane tAjika prajA vacce maitrInI bhAvanAnA pratIka rUpa e baMne prajAnA be kavionA milananI che. samarakaMdamAM A uparAMta supAna-ATA, sakhI-jhiMdA vagere bIjAM keTalAMka smArako paNa ame jhINavaTapUrvaka nihALyA. te darekano bhinna bhinna itihAsa che. samarakaMdanI dharatI aDhI-traNa hajAra varSanA itihAsathI dhabake che. duniyAnI prAcIna nagarIomAM samarakaMdanuM paNa AgavuM sthAna che. ujhabekistAna soviyeTa yuniyanamAM joDAyuM ethI ene ghaNo lAbha thayo che. ethI khetIpradhAna garIba prajAnI Arthika sthiti sudharI che, zikSaNanA kSetre vyavasthA sudaDha thaI che. udyogo sthapAyA che ane prajAvikAsanAM mahattvanAM kAryo thayAM che. paraMtu mArI dRSTie sauthI mahattvanuM eka kArya thayuM te prAcIna avazeSonI jALavaNInuM che. soviyeTa yuniyananI sthApanA pUrve ghaNI imArato jarjarita thaI gaI hatI. keTalIka to khaMDiyera banI cUkI hatI. ujhabekistAnanI sarakAra pAse tenI marAmata mATe tyAre nANAM, sAdhano, AvaData ke dRSTi nahotAM. lenine sattA para AvatAMnI sAthe aitihAsika imAratonI dekhabhALa ane surakSA mATe Adezo ApI dIdhA. ethI samarakaMdamAM vAMkA thaI gayelA ane paDuM paDuM thaI rahelA keTalAka minArAone sIdhA ane sthira karI levAmAM AvyA. keTalIka imAratomAM staMbho, ghumaTo, minArAo, pravezadvAro vageremAM jyAM paththaro khavAI gayA hatA tene sarakhA karI levAmAM AvyA. jyAM jarUra lAgI tyAM TekA mUkavAmAM AvyA. bhagnAvazeSo kALajInA abhAve vadhu bhagna thatA hatA tene aTakAvavAmAM AvyA. raMga pUravAmAM AvyA. tUTelI lAdIo kADhIne navI besADavAmAM AvI. DijhAino sarakhI karavAmAM AvI ane e rIte A smArakone jovAlAyaka banAvavAmAM AvyAM. ame A badhI prAcIna imArato nihALI rahyA hatA te vakhate keTalIka sthAnika mahilAo tyAM AvI pahoMcI hatI. amArAthI thoDuM aMtara rAkhIne teo pAchaLa pAchaLa cAlI rahI hatI. videzI pravAsIone nihALavAnA kautukathI keTalIka vAra sthAnika loko vIMTaLAya evA prasaMgo duniyAmAM ghaNe sthaLe bane che. paraMtu A mahilAonA caherA para kautukano nahi paNa dInatAno bhAva hato. keTalIke nAnuM bALaka paNa teDyuM hatuM. bhIkha mAgavAno temano Azaya hoya ema jaNAtuM hatuM. chatAM koIe hAtha lAMbo ryo nahoto. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM tyAre bhIkha mAgavA upara ane bhIkha ApavA upara kaDaka pratibaMdha hato. amArA gAIDa zAkhobe kahyuM, 'ahIM keTalIka 98 9 pravAsa-darzana

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mahilAo bhIkha mAgavA Ave che, paraMtu maherabAnI karIne koIne kazuM Apazo nahi.' paraMtu ahIM garIba lokonAM mATInAM nAnAM nAnAM gharo joIne amane thayuM ke soviyeTa yuniyanamAM sAmyavAda hovA chatAM ATalAM badhAM varSe paNa ahIMnA A lokonI sukhAkArImAM khAsa kaMI pharaka paDyo nathI. registAnamAM rahetI ahIMnI A gorI cAmaDIvALI mahilAo jANe varSothI nAhI na hoya evI lAgatI hatI. emanAM melAM vastra paNa kALAbhUkharA raMganAM hatAM. paraMtu emaNe teDelAM bALako gorA bharAvadAra caherAvALAM hatAM. emane sArI rIte snAna karAvIne suMdara vastrothI susajja karavAmAM Ave to jANe rAjakumAra ke rAjakuMvarI jevA lAge. kone khabara che ke taimuranA ja e vaMzajo nahi hoya ! smArako joI ame badhA rastA para AvyA ane dhIme dhIme gAiDanI pAchaLa cAlavA lAgyA. amArI pAchaLa mahilAo paNa cAlatI hatI. teo thoDI vAra amArI sAme tAkI rahe ane thoDI vA2 rastAne cheDe jue. kema Ama kare che tenuM anumAna karatAM jaNAyuM ke rastAne cheDe eka polIsa pharaja upara Ubho hato. enA dekhatAM teo bhIkha mAgavA nahotI icchatI. rasto pUro thatAM ame bIjI dizAmAM vaLyA. have polIsa dekhAto baMdha thayo. tarata e mahilAo amArI pAse AvI. hAtha lAMbo karyo. bhASA to AvaDatI nahotI. potAnA bALaka mATe bhIkha mAge che evo izAro karI UMkAro bhaNyo. ame joI rahyA. bhIkha ApavI ke na ApavI enI vimAsaNamAM paDI gayA. mahilAo ane bALakone jotAM anukaMpAno bhAva thayA vagara rahe nahi. ame pAMca pAMca rUbalanI noTa e darekane ApI. noTa maLatAM ja e mahilAo kSaNavAramAM jhaDapathI kyAMnI kyAM cAlI gaI. jANe kazuM banyuM ja na hoya ! sarakArI kAyadA pramANe ame ke te mahilAoe yogya karyuM na kahevAya. bIjI bAju vAstavikatA jotAM aMtaHkaraNanA Adezane anusaravAnuM amane yogya lAgyuM. samarakaMdanI A ghaTanAe prajAonI caDatIpaDatInA itihAsane naja2 samakSa tAdaza karyo. kavi malabArInI paMkti mArA mukhamAMthI sarI paDI. 'sagAM dIThAM meM zAhaAlamanAM, bhIkha mAMgatAM zerIe.' (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) sama2kaMda * 99

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14 tibilisI (jyorjiyA) soviyeTa yuniyananuM visarjana thayuM te pahelAM ame keTalAka bhAratIya pravAsIo jyorjiyAnA pATanagara tibilisI(Tibilisi)nA pravAse gayA hatA. jyorjiyA tyAre soviyeTa yuniyananuM eka sabhyarAjya hatuM. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM raziyAnuM varcas hatuM. yuropanA dezomAM, eka bAju kALo samudra ane bIjI bAju kAspiyana samudra. e benI vacce AvelA, kokesasa parvatamALAvALA jyorjiyAnuM mahattva bhaugolika temaja sAMskRtika dRSTie viziSTa prakAranuM rahyuM che. tibilisI enuM prAcIna aitihAsika pATanagara che. duniyAnAM keTalAMka zaheronuM bhaugolika, sAmAjika, sAMskArika, Arthika ane saMrakSaNAtmaka dRSTie eTaluM badhuM mahattva hoya che ke rAjyasattA taraphathI rAjadhAnI tarIke enI pasaMdagI thayA pachI, rAjyasattAmAM parivartano thAya to paNa saikAo sudhI rAjadhAnI tarIke enuM mahattva eTaluM ne eTaluM ja svIkArAyeluM rahe che. duniyAmAM hAla jeTalAM prAcIna nagaro che tenI sarakhAmaNImAM keTalAMka prAcIna pATanagaro nathI. topaNa aDhI-traNa hajAra ke tethI vadhu varSanA prAcIna pATanagaro hAla paNa che. keTalAMka pATanagaronAM nAma enAM e rahe che, paNa najIka najIkanA vistAramAM enuM sthaLAMtara thatuM rahe che. keTalAMka pATanagara enA e ja sthaLe rahe che, paNa enAM nAmomAM pheraphAro thayA kare che. keTalAMkanAM nAma ane sthaLa eTalAM ja 100 9 pravAsa-darzana

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prAcIna jovA maLe che. keTalAMka pATanagara pATanagara maTI sAmAnya nagara banI jAya che. sattAonI caDatIpaDatI thavA chatAM ane sthaLa AghuMpAchuM thavA chatAM isavIsananA cothA pAMcamA saikAthI tibilisI jyorjiyAnuM pATanagara rahyuM che. Ama to tibilisInA A pradezamAM lokono vasavATa pAMca-cha hajAra . varSathI cAlyo Avato hovAnuM manAya che, paraMtu rAjyanA vaDA mathaka tarIkenI mahattA ene cothA saikAnI pUrve maLI hoya evo nirdeza kyAMya maLato nathI. prAcIna samayamAM pAMcamA saikAmAM, mAtra pUrva jyorjiyAmAM, "AibiriyA nAmanuM rAjya hatuM tyAre tenI rAjadhAnI tibilisI hatI evo ullekha maLe che. A zaheranI samRddhi eTalI badhI hatI ke dveSa ane irSAthI paDozI rAjyoe - Arabo, parziyano, turko, moMgolo, bAijhenTAino vageree - bhUtakALamAM vAraMvAra tibilisI upara AkramaNa karyA hatAM. i.sa. 1795mAM parziyana sainikoe tibilisI para caDhAI karIne ene sAva pAyamAla karI nAkhyuM hatuM, paraMtu khamIravaMtI jyorjiyana prajA pAchI beThI thaI gaI hatI. I.sa. 1801mAM jyorjiyAe paDozI rAjya raziyA sAthe maitrI karI lIdhI hatI. 1917mAM raziyAmAM krAnti thayA pachI soviyeTa yuniyananI racanA thaI ane eno vistAra thayo, tyAra pachI 1936mAM jyorjiyA soviyeTa yuniyamAM joDAI gayuM hatuM. soviyeTa yuniyananuM visarjana thatAM have jyorjiyA pharI svataMtra rASTra banyuM che. - tibilisInuM jUnuM nAma tiphalisa (Titlis) hatuM. philisano eka artha thAya che "hUMphALuM'. A zaheranI AbohavA parathI e nAma paDyuM che. ahIM na sakhata ThaMDI paDe ane na sakhata garamI paDe. kurA nadInA kAMThe vaseluM ane kokesasa parvatanI khINamAM AveluM A zahera naisargika rIte paNa saMrakSaNa pAmeluM che. Ama to mAtra tibilisI ja nahi, samagra jyorjiyAnI AbohavA ghaNI sarasa che. ethI lokonuM Arogya ekaMdare kudaratI rIte ja sAruM rahe evuM che. A Arogyavardhaka AbohavAne kAraNe ja duniyAmAM zatAyu bhogavatA sauthI vadhu mANaso jyorjiyAmAM jovA maLe che. ema kahevAya che ke jyorjiyAmAM dara eka lAkha mANase pa3 jeTalA mANaso 100 varSathI vadhu umaranA hoya che. paMdara lAkhanI vastI dharAvatA tibilisImAM amAro utAro zaheranA madhya bhAgamAM AvelI hoTela AdayArA(Adjara)mAM hato. e bahumALI hoTelamAM pravezatAM ja enA karmacArIoe umaLakAthI amAruM svAgata karyuM. tibilisI = 101 -

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ame sau potapotAnI rUmamAM pahoMcI gayAM. dareka rUmamAM eka bAjunI AkhI dIvAla kAcanI hatI. tyAMthI sAva nIcenuM dazya paNa dekhAya ane dUradUranuM dazya paNa jovA maLe, paraMtu navAI lAge evuM dazya to e hatuM ke samaDI jevAM seMkaDo kALAM pakSIo satata UDAUDa karatAM hatAM. amane jANavA maLyuM ke e sthaLAMtara karanArAM (Migrating) pakSIo hatAM. keTalAka divasa pahelAM e AvyAM che ane thoDA divasamAM cAlyAM jaze. sthaLAMtara karanArAM pakSIonI eka khAsiyata e hoya che ke teo Akho divasa UDavAno mahAvaro rAkhatA hoya che. hoTelamAM thoDo ArAma karI ame basamAM nagaradarzana mATe nIkaLyA. amArI gAiDa jyorjiyana yuvatI hatI. te iMgliza sAruM bolatI hatI. enuM nAma hatuM kelinA. kelinA amane jyorjiyAno itihAsa samajAvatI gaI. nagaradarzananA kAryakramamAM ame yunivarsiTI joI, jyorjiyana sAyansa eNkeDemI joI, myujhiyama joyuM ane sTelina pArka joyo. baporanA bhojana pachI amane dArU banAvanArA kArakhAnAmAM laI javAmAM AvyA. ame tyAM pahoMcavA AvyA tyAM ja dArUnI tIvra vAsa AvavA lAgI. kelinAe kahyuM ke "jyorjiyAnI viziSTatA e che ke duniyAmAM jude jude sthaLe maLIne hajAreka jAtanI drAkSa thAya che emAMnI lagabhaga pAMcaso jAtanI drAkSa phakta amArA jyorjiyAmAM thAya che. ATalI badhI jAtanI drAkSa duniyAnA koI paNa eka ja dezamAM thatI nathI. drAkSanA kSetramAM paDelA amArA mANaso navI navI jAtanI drAkSa ugADavAnA prayatno satata karatA ja rahe che. dArUnA vyavasAyane kAraNe ja drAkSanA prakAra ane guNavattAno ahIM vikAsa thayo che. amArA dezamAM jAtajAtanA dArU thAya che. keTalIka jAtanA dArU phakta jyorjiyAmAM ja bane che. madyapAnano zokha amArA lokone ghaNo ja che, paNa zarAba pIne, vadhu paDato nazo karIne rastAmAM lathaDiyAM khAtA ke pIdhelI hAlatamAM paDelA mANaso tamane jovA nahi maLe. amArA lokonI mAnyatA evI che ke jema bIjAne sigAreTa ApavAthI dostI baMdhAya che, tema bIjAne dArU pivaDAvavAthI ke dArUnI bATalI bheTa ApavAthI maitrI sthapAya che." tyAra pachI amane dArUnI jaMgI vakhAramAM laI javAyA. tyAM vividha prakAranA dArUnAM moTAM moTAM pIpa jovA maLyAM. ahIMthI ghaNo dArU videzomAM paNa jAya che. jyorjiyAnI A eka moTI lAkSaNikatA amane jovA maLI. dArUnuM kendra joI ame AgaLa cAlyA. rastAmAM eka pUtaLuM batAvI gAiDe kahyuM, "A jyorjiyana mAtAnuM pUtaLuM che. enA eka hAthamAM talavAra . 102 * pravAsa-darzana

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che ane bIjA hAthamAM dArUnuM pAtra che. talavAra duzmano mATe che ane dArU mitro mATe che. talavAra yuddhanuM pratIka che ane dArU maitrInuM pratIka che. amArI jyorjiyana mAtA paDozI rAjyone kahe che ke jo tame amArI sAthe zatrutA rAkhazo to tame amArA khaDgano svAda cAkhazo ane jo tame amArI sAthe premabharI maitrI rAkhazo to tamane amArI uttama kImatI madirAnuM pAna karavA maLaze. A pUtaLuM joIne duniyAnI dareka prajA potAnA viziSTa prAkRtika saMyogo ane dilanI bhAvanA anusAra kevAM kevAM pratIkonI racanA kare che teno khayAla Avyo. pAchA pharatAM amArI basa prANIbAga pAse UbhI rahI. kelinAe kahyuM, 'tibilisInA A prANIbAgamAM pahelAM to sADAtraNaso jeTalAM judAM judAM prANIo hatAM. have to mAMDa pacAsa jeTalAM prANIo paNa rahyAM nathI. enA nibhAva mATe sarakAra pAse eTalAM nANAM hAla nathI. tamArAmAMthI jeone prANIbAga jovo hoya te UtarI zake che. potapotAnI anukULatA pramANe joIne teo hoTela para AvI zake che. ahIMthI cAlIne jaI zakAya eTalA aMtare hoTela AvI che. jeone prANIbAga na jovo hoya teo basamAM besI rahe. ame teone hoTela para utArI daIzuM.' ame keTalAka prANIbAga jovA UtaryA. atyaMta vizALa jagyAmAM Avelo prANIbAga enA, pravezadvAra AgaLa ja nisteja ane ujjaDa lAgato hato. jyAM jyAM prANIo hatAM evA thoDA vistAramAM ame pharI vaLyA. enI khAsa koI viziSTatA amane jaNAI nahi. sthAnika loko paNa A prANIbAga jovA AvatA nathI evI chApa amArA mana para paDI. je thoDA AvyA hatA te prANIone jovA mATe nahotA AvyA. A vizALa udyAnamAM saMtAIne besavA mATe yuvakayuvatIone sArI anukULatA maLatI hatI. tibilisImAM ame jude jude sthaLe pharyA. tyAra pachI bIjA divase amane vIseka kilomITara dUra jUnI rAjadhAnI jovA laI javAmAM AvyA. DuMgaromAMthI pasAra thatA e rastAnI baMne bAjunAM hariyALAM dRzyo nayanane bharI de evAM hatAM. A rasto jUnA vakhatamAM kokesasa parvatamALAmAM lazkaranI dRSTie banAvavAmAM Avyo hato. eTale Aje paNa enuM nAma 'miliTarI hAIve' ja rahyuM che. jUnA tibilisImAM rAjamahela ane bIjA AvAso amane jovA maLyA. bhUtakALanI bhavyatAno khayAla e bhagnAvazeSo ApatA hatA. keTalIka imArato haju akhaMDita hatI. tibilisI * 103

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tibilisI prAcIna samayamAM enAM devaLo mATe paNa jANItuM hatuM. ahIM paMdaraso varSa jUnA 'jhiyona' nAmanA devaLamAM avazeSo che ane caudaso varSa jUnA seMTa DeviDa nAmanA devaLanA avazeSo paNa che. ahIM eka devaLa kraoNsacarca (Cross-Church)nA nAmathI paNa oLakhAya che. enI kvidaMtI evI che ke jyAre jyorjiyA bAju haju khristI dharmano pracAra nahoto thayo tyAre jyorjiyAmAM phakta eka ja mahilA izu khristamAM dRDha zraddhA dharAvatI hatI. e mahilAnA avasAna pachI enA zabane je jagyAe daphanAvavAmAM AvyuM tyAM vakhata jatAM eka vRkSa UgyuM hatuM. e vRkSa camatkArika manAvA lAgyuM. pachI to lokomAM evI mAnyatA vahetI thaI ke e vRkSano sparza karavAthI navI zakti maLe che; roga thayo hoya to te paNa maTI jAya che. A rogazAmaka vRkSano sparza karavA mATe ghaNA loko AvavA lAgyA. ghaNe dUrathI je loko AvI zakatA nahotA teo vRkSanI nAnI DALakhI magAvatA. ema karatAM karatAM keTalAka loko DALakhIne badale emAMthI nAno krosa banAvIne laI javA lAgyA. A rIte e vRkSanuM nAma kraoNsavRkSa (Cross-Tree) paDI gayuM. tyAM AvanArA loko mATe pachI eka devaLa baMdhAvavAmAM AvyuM. e devaLanuM nAma paNa 'Cross-Church' paDI gayuM. vakhata jatAM tyAM vRkSa na rahyuM, paNa devaLa to rahyuM. A badhA avazeSonI mulAkAta lIdhA pachI ame thoDe dUra AvelI eka TekarI paranA prAcIna devaLamAM gayA. bahArathI jUnA lAgatA e devaLamAM aMdaranI badhI racanA vyavasthita rIte sacavAyelI hatI. ame gayA tyAre keTalAka pAdarIo tyAM dhArmika vidhi karI rahyA hatA. devaLamAM vIjaLInA dIvA nahotA, paNa mINabattIonI jyotano prakAza patharAyelo hato. ethI vAtAvaraNa pavitra ane prasannatAsabhara banI gayuM hatuM. vidhi karAvanAra cAreka vRddha pAdarIo sAthe vIsabAvIsa varSanA yuvAna evA be pAdarIo paNa hatA. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM devaLa jIvaMta hoya, temAM pAdarIo dhArmika vidhi karatA hoya ane temAM yuvAno pAdarI tarIke joDAyA hoya e badhuM Azcarya pamADe evuM tyAre lAgatuM hatuM, paraMtu dharmanA punarutthAnanI e nizAnI hatI. tibilisInA pravAsa daramiyAna jyorjiyAnA lokonI eka sArI viziSTa chApa amArA manamAM aMkita thaI. ekaMdare loko maLatAvaDA ane premALa lAgyA. raziyA, ArmeniyA, turkastAna, ajharabaijAna vagere sarahadI rAjyo sAthe vakhatovakhata thatA saMgharSomAM teo potAnuM khamIra batAvatA 104 * pravAsa-darzana

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rahetA hatA, paraMtu soviyeTa yuniyana thayA pachI kyAreka temanA para lazkarI damana vadhI jatuM ane atyAcAro paNa thatA. - tibilisImAM have amAro chello divasa hato. sAMje ame bhojana letA hatA tyAre veiTaroe prastAva mUkyo ke dasa vAgye resTorAM baMdha thaI jAya ane teonI veiTara tarIkenI pharaja pUrI thaI jAya te pachI e ja jagyAe badhAe ekatra thaI gIto gAvAM. veiTaronI darakhAsta ame saharSa svIkArI lIdhI. traNa divasanA rokANa daramiyAna veiTaro sAthe amAre sAruM haLavAbhaLavAnuM thayuM hatuM. veiTaro amArAmAMnA keTalAkanAM nAma jANatA hatA ane ame paNa veiTarone nAmathI oLakhatA thaI gayA hatA. emAM mukhya be veiTaro te amirAna ane mitovA hatA. - rAtre dasa vAge ame resTorAMmAM pahoMcI gayA. veiTaro ane veiTresoe yuniphorma badalIne potAno cAlu paheraveza dhAraNa karI lIdho hato. ullAsamaya vAtAvaraNamAM saMgItanA sUro vahevA lAgyA. eke vAyolina, eke giTAra, eke Drama - ema vAjiMtro vagADavA sAthe gIto gAvAnuM cAlu karyuM. vagara TikiTanI A mahephila dhAryA karatAM vadhu jAmI. aDadhA kalAkamAM to saMgItanI sAthe nAcavAnuM paNa cAlu thaI gayuM. eno raMga amArAmAMnAM keTalAMka yuvaka yuvatIone lAgyo. AmAM potapotAnI AvaData pramANe hAthapaga uchALI nAcavAnuM hatuM. A koI zAstrI nRtya nahotuM. emAM binaAvaData ke apUrNatA tarapha koInuM dhyAna jAya ja nahi. umaMga, ullAsa vagere ja mahattvanAM hatAM. vacce virAma Avyo. badhAMne ThaMDAM pINAM apAyAM. daramiyAna amirAMne eka spardhA mATe darakhAsta mUkI. pote eka jyorjiyana gIta gAya ane amAre eka bhAratIya gIta gAvuM, paraMtu emAM chevaTe jyorjiyano phAvI gayA. teone to rojano mahAvaro hoya. have amirAMne bIjI darakhAsta mUkI ke pote bhAratIya calacitronAM gIta gAya ane amAre koI paNa binabhAratIya bhASAnuM gIta gAvuM. emAM amirAMne eka pachI eka hiMdI gIto gAyAM. ethI ame to Azcaryacakita thaI gayAM. amirAMnanA hiMdI uccAro paNa sArA hatA. A bIjI spardhAmAM paNa amirAMnano pakSa jItI gayo. ame ene pUchyuM ke "ATalAM badhAM hiMdI gIto kevI rIte AvaDyAM ?' eNe kahyuM ke jyAre hiMdI philma abhinetA rAja kapUre soviyeTa yuniyananI mulAkAta lIdhI ane enuM "AvArA'nuM gIta amArAmAM atyaMta lokapriya thaI gayuM tyArathI mArI jema ghaNAMne hiMdI gItono nAda lAgyo che. mane tibilisI x 105

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bhArata mATe ghaNuM mAna che. huM hiMdI gItonI keseTo meLavIne sAMbhaLyA karuM chuM. alabatta, huM hiMdI zabdo sAMbhaLIne kaMThastha karI lauM chuM, paNa enA arthanI mane bahu khabara nathI hotI." rAtanA lagabhaga eka vAgyA sudhI mahephila jAmI. keTalAka veiTaro hoTelamAM ja rahevAnA hatA ane keTalAka ghare javAnA hatA. jevI jenI pharaja tevI tenI vyavasthA hatI. prasanna vAtAvaraNamAM khilakhilATa sAthe ame chUTA paDyA. pravAsIo veiTaro sAthe ATalA badhA bhaLe ane veiTarone pravAsIo sAthe ATalI badhI AtmIyatA thAya evI ghaTanA pramANamAM ochI bane che. bIje divase savAre amAre nAsto karI tibilisInI vidAya levAnI hatI. potapotAno sAmAna taiyAra karI, te basamAM goThavavA mATe ame nokarone bolAvyA, paNa temanA caherA para prasannatA nahotI. jANe parANe teone kAma karavuM paDe che evuM teonA hAvabhAva parathI lAgyuM. kAM to rAtano thAka haze, kAM to uparIno Thapako haze, kAM to koInI sAthe bolAcAlI thaI haze ke TipanI rakama ochI paDI haze ema judA judA tarka amArA manamAM doDyA. mANasanuM mana keTaluM jaladI badalAI jAya che ! ame nAsto karavA resTorAMmAM gayA, paNa tyAM amirAMna jANe amane oLakhato na hoya evuM enuM vartana lAgyuM. ame hasIne bolAvavA prayatna karatA hatA, paNa sAme ThaMDo pratisAda paDato hato. veiTreso paNa eTalI ja gaMbhIra hatI. nAstAnI vAnagIo Tebala para kazA paNa hAvabhAva vagara mUkI jatI. amArAmAMthI koIka bolyuM, "A lokone kaMIka vAMkuM paDyuM lAge che. ApaNI zI bhUla thaI che tenI khabara paDatI nathI.' "koIe koI yuvatInI cheDatI to nathI karI ne ?" bIjA eka prazna karyo. "nA, nAcagAna vakhate evuM kazuM ja banyuM nathI. evuM thayuM hoya to te ja vakhate emanA caherAnA raMga badalAI gayA hota,' bIjA koIke khulAso karyo. ame hoTelanA kAunTara para gayA. tyAM pharaja bajAvI rahelAM yuvaka yuvatIoe kazo ja AvakAra amane Apyo nahi. amArAthI puchAI gayuM, "tame loko ATalAM badhAM gaMbhIra kema cho ?' paraMtu eno paNa koIe javAba na Apyo. nIcuM moDhuM rAkhIne basa potapotAnuM kAma karatAM rahyAM. jyAre eka vyaktino cahero gaMbhIra ke aprasanna hoya tyAre vyaktigata 109 4 pravAsa-darzana

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kAraNa hoI zake, paraMtu jyAre ghaNAbadhAnuM vartana AvuM hoya tyAre sAmudAyika kAraNa hovuM joIe. TAI paherI hatI, paraMtu kharuM kAraNa zuM che te vize koI bolatuM nahotuM. tibilisImAM amAruM Agamana umaLakAbharyuM hatuM ane have amArI vidAya vakhate vAtAvaraNa gamagIna banI gayuM hatuM. ame hoTela choDI basamAM besavA jatA hatA tyAM amirAMna AvI pahoMcyo. eNe dhImA sAde kahyuM, "mApha karajo, Aje koI tamArI sAthe sArI rIte bolyuM nathI, kAraNa ke Aje amAre acAnaka zoka pALavAno Avyo. Ajano amAro divasa mauna ane gamagInIno che. gaI kAle rAtre moDethI samAcAra AvyA ke ArmeniyAnI sarahada upara thayelA anyAyane kAraNe virodha pradarzita karanArA amArA cAlIseka jyorjiyana nirdoza vidyArthIo upara raziyana sainikoe goLIonI ramajhaTa bolAvI dIdhI che. A samAcAra chApAmAM ke TI.vI. upara ke reDiyo upara nahi Ave. enuM kAraNa tame samajI zako cho, paraMtu e samAcAra sAMbhaLIne amAruM hRdaya raDe che. Aje koI tamArI sAthe hasIne vAta nahi kare. gaI kAlanI mahephila pachI Aje tamane badhAne viparIta anubhava thAya che e mATe tamArI kSamA mAgIe chIe. ATaluM bolatAM bolatAM amirAnanI AMkhamAMthI daDadaDa AMsu paDyAM. tarata te cAlyo gayo. ame basamAM besI eNrapaoNrTa tarapha cAlyA. kelinA paNa Akhe raste kazuM bolI nahi. chelle vidAya vakhate eNe ane DrAIvare hAtha halAvyA eTaluM ja. jyAM saramukhatyArazAhI ane dUra damana hoya tyAMnI prajAnA prazno paNa kevA judA hoya che enuM ciMtana karatAM karatAM ame tibilisI choDyuM. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 ; uttarAlekhana) tibilisI 9 107

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15 ejiyana samudranA TApuomAM (grIsa-bhUmadhya samudra) duniyAnA keTalAka dezonA sAMskRtika vikAsamAM enA mukhya taLapradeza (Main land) nI jema enI AsapAsanA enA TApuonuM paNa eTaluM ja mahattvanuM kArya raheluM che. evA dezomAM grIsanuM sthAna mokhare che. vaLI grIsanI saMskRti paNa eTalI ja prAcIna che. yuropamAM bhUmadhya samudranA kinAre AvelAM rASTromAM spena, phrAnsa, ITalI, yugoslAviyA, AlveniyA, grIsa, tarkastAna vageremAM sauthI vadhu TApuo dharAvatuM rASTra te grIsa che. Ama to badho jaLavistAra bRhada bhUmadhya samudrano ja gaNAya, paraMtu judA judA kinArAnA pradezanA lokoe ene oLakhavA mATe judAM judAM nAma prAcIna samayathI ja ApelAM che. grIka lokoe potAnA eka bAjunA vizALa samudrane ejiyana (Aegean) samudra ane bIjI bAjunA samudrane Ayoniyana (Ionian) samudranuM nAma ApyuM che. A baMne samudramAM paNa paMdarathI vadhu akhAto che ane te darekanAM judAM judAM nAma che. khAssA moTA moTA ekasothI vadhu TApu dharAvanAra ejiyana samudrano mahimA grIsa mATe ghaNo moTo che. A samudranI AbohavAmAM ja koIka evuM tattva che je jIvanane cetanathI dhabakatuM rAkhe che. tyAMnA beTonA nIrava vAtAvaraNamAM kavitA, saMgIta, citrakalA, zilpakalA, sthApatyakalA, dharmakalA, tattvajJAna vagere sArI rIte pAMgaratAM rahyAM che ane grIsanI saMskRtinA 108 : pravAsa-darzana

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vikAsamAM anokhuM pradAna karatAM rahyAM che. ejiyana samudranA TApuno ItihAsa bAda karIe to grIsano sAMskRtika ItihAsa adhUro rahe. A ejiyana samudramAM saphara karavAno eka suMdara avasara amane keTalAMka pravAsImitrone sAMpaDyo hato. amArI saphara to eka ja divasanI hatI ane phakta traNa TApunuM vihaMgAvalokana ja karavAnuM hatuM, paNa e anubhava mAre mATe eTalo samRddha ane smaraNIya banI gayo che ke eniyana samudranuM nAma sAMbhaLatAM ja hRdaya praphullita banI jAya che. grIsano bhavya bhUtakALa calacitranI jema najara sAme taravaravA lAge che. amArI sTImaranuM nAma paNa evuM ja yathArtha hatuM : "ejiyana glorI' (Aegean Glory). ame sTImaramAM savAre ATha vAge dAkhala thayA tyAre lAkSaNika grIka pozAkamAM susajja evA karmacArIe amAruM sabhAva svAgata karyuM. emanA hasatA caherAmAM kutrimatA ke aupacArikatA nahotI. pravezadvAramAM ja eka yuvaka ane eka yuvatI eka pachI eka pravAsInA hAtha pakaDIne UbhAM rahe ane phoTogrAphara phoTo pADI le. samagra vAtAvaraNa eTaluM AvakArabharyuM hatuM ke ApaNane ajANyuM na lAge. be mALa ane upara DekavALI sudIrgha, suMdara, suzobhita, susajja ane suvidhAyukta sTImaramAM yatheccha pharI zakIe. pAMcasothI adhika pravAsImAM duniyAnA ghaNA dezonA nAgariko hatA, eTale mAIka upara jAherAta iMgliza, phrenca ane grIka bhASAmAM thatI hatI. mAIkanI vyavasthA eTalI sarasa hatI ke game tyAM hoIe, badhuM ja spaSTa saMbhaLAya. samaya thayo eTale sTImara UpaDI. marinA philasavaoNsano kinAro choDI uttarottara vadhatI jatI gatie sTImara sAronika akhAtanA jaLa para AgaLa vadhavA lAgI. pravAsIone mAIka upara pravAsanI rUparekhA samajAvavAmAM AvI ane vyavasthAnI mAhitI apAI. ejiyana samudranA TApuo vize bolatAM gAIDa yuvatIe kahyuM ke, "grIsa ane turkastAna vacceno vizALa samudra te ejiyana samudra. hAla grIsamAM mukhya dharma te khristI dharma che ane turkastAnamAM IslAma dharma. grIsanI gaNanA yuropamAM thAya che ane turkastAnanI eziyAmAM. paraMtu khristI dharma ane IslAma dharmano udaya nahoto thayo te pUrve yuropanI eka prAcIna vikasita saMskRti te grIka saMskRti che. sADA traNa hajArathI cAra hajAra varSa pahelAMnI A vAta che. A sAMskRtika vikAsamAM ejiyana samudranA TApuono ghaNo moTo phALo rahelo che. eTale ja ItihAsakAro ejiyana dvIpasamUhane "yuropIya saMskRtinI jananI' tarIke oLakhAve che." ejiyana samudranA TApumAM ja 109

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vaLI kahyuM, "ejiyana samudramAM kithanosa (KITHNOs - kithanAsa, OS no Asa uccAra paNa thAya che), sirosa, nAkasosa, sAmosa, milosa, enDrosa, Tilosa, therA, Delosa, siphanosa vagere so karatAM vadhu TApu AvelA che. dakSiNe kraTe (athavA kriTa ke kriTI) nAmanA vizALa TApu sudhI ejiyana samudranI hada gaNAya che. dareka TApuno potAno ItihAsa che. darekanI potAnI keTalIka lAkSaNikatA che. A badhA TApuomAMthI Aje ApaNe mAtra hAIDrA, porosa ane ejinA e traNa TApunI ja mulAkAta laIzuM. bIjA keTalAka vize thoDIka mAhitI ApIzuM." amArI sTImare have ekasarakhI gati dhAraNa karI lIdhI hatI. kinAro dekhAto baMdha thayo hato. cArebAju samudranAM nIlaraMgI pANI parathI vaheto zItaLa vAyu prasannatA prerato hato. samudranA taraMgo cittamAM AlAdanA taraMgo janmAvatA hatA. gAIDe bIjI bhASAmAM bolavAnuM cAlu karyuM eTale e ghaNAMne mATe virAmarUpa hatuM. ame kebinamAMthI bahAra nIkaLI Deka para gayAM. taDako cAlu thaI gayo hato eTale keTalAMka pravAsIoe sTImara kaMpanIe bheTa ApelI chAjalIvALI, sapheda TopI paherI lIdhI hatI. sTImare kApelAM pANI beya bAju haDaselAtAM jaI anukrame zamI jatAM hatAM. pharI iMgliza bhASA cAlu thatAM gAIDa taraphathI vizeSa mAhitI sAMpaDI. grIsanI keTalIye mahAna vibhUti A TApunI rahevAsI hatI. IsavIsana pUrve Azare AThamA saikAmAM thaI gayelA grIka mahA kavi homara AmAMnA eka TApunA rahIza hatA. "IliyaDa" ane "oDesI' jevAM mahAkAvyonuM sarjana ejiyana vistAramAM thayuM che. suprasiddha gaNitazAstrI ane tattvaciMtaka pAyathAgorasa ahIMnA eka TApunA hatA. mahAna grIka tattvavettA erisToTala avasAna pAmyA tyAre emanA dehane ahIM eka TApu para daphanAvavAmAM Avyo hato. mahAna vaidya hipojhiTisa tathA saMta jahona DivAIna A TApumAM thaI gayA. saMta pola A TApumAM vicaryA hatA ane emaNe ghaNe sthaLe devaLo baMdhAvyAM hatAM.' prAcIna grIka loko devadevIomAM bahu zraddhA dharAvatA. samudranA devatA (jaLa devatA) paoNsiDona (Poseidon)nAM maMdiro Thera Thera che. te dharatIkaMpanA paNa devatA gaNAya che ane ghoDAnA devatA paNa gaNAya che. romanonA jaLadevatA nepyuna (neptune) ane paoNsiDona eka manAya che. grIka sUryadevatA epolono janma ahIMnA losa TApu para thayo hato. te saMgItanA, bhaviSyavANInA, zuddhinA, ArogyanA ane saMrakSaNanA deva tarIke manAya 110 ja pravAsa-darzana

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che. loko paoNsiDona ane epolonI zraddhApUrvaka pUjAbhakti kare che. te samudradevatAne vadhu bhaje che kAraNa ke te mAne che ke A dvIpasamUhanI je kaMI samRddhi che te samudradevatAne AbhArI che. romana loko jene mAtA tarIke pUje che e premanI devI vinasanI kalAkRti tarIke jagavikhyAta banelI mUrti ahIMnA milosa TApumAMthI nIkaLI hatI. eTale e "vinasa da milo" tarIke jANItI che. A beTAI (Islander) lokonI jIvanazailI kaMIka anokhI hoya che. sarakho sUryaprakAza, sarakhI havA, sAruM pANI, sArI vanaspati vagere hoya to khetI, Dhorauchera, vANijya, Arogya ItyAdi mATe sAro avakAza rahe. ethI jIvana samRddha bane che. A TApunA keTalAye loko jANe svargIya vAtAvaraNamAM rahetA hoya evo AnaMda lUMTe che. A dvIpastha lokomAM, vizeSata: puruSomAM javalle ja koI evo hoya che ke jene taratAM na AvaDatuM hoya. hoDI, vahANa calAvatAM, halesAM mAratAM darekane AvaDe. e emanI viziSTatA che. traNa hajAra varSa pahelAM grIsanI prajAe vahANavidyAmAM nipuNatA meLavI hatI. teoe moTAM moTAM vahANo banAvyAM hatAM ane Akho bhUmadhya samudra khUMdI vaLyA hatA. spenamAMthI je prAcIna grIka avazeSo maLyA che te batAve che ke traNa hajAra varSa pUrve grIka loko TheTha spena sudhI potAnAM vahANomAM pahoMcatA hatA. A badhA TApuo rahyA eTale sAva sapATa to hoya ja nahi. keTalAka to TharI gayelA javALAmukhI che. eTale TApumAM sIdhA, lAMbA, sapATa rastA javalle ja maLe. sAMkaDA, caDhANavALA ane vaLAMkavALA rastA hoya. kyAMka caDhANa kaparuM hoya to paththaranAM pagathiyAM karavAmAM AvyAM hoya. paththaramAMthI cUno maLe eTale makAnone, devaLone cUnAthI raMgI zveta rAkhavAnuM tene vadhu game che. samRddhi vadhe eTale spardhA, IrSyA, saMgharSa vadhe. A TApuo para varcasva meLavavA, temanI samRddhi lUMTI levA grIsa, ITalI, turkastAna vagere vacce vakhatovakhata yuddho thatAM rahyAM che ane ghaNA lokono saMhAra thayo che. TApuono ItihAsa jema sukhada che tema karuNa paNa che. amArI sTImara have hAIDrA baMdare pahoMcavA AvI. sUcanAo apAI. ghaDiyALanA Takore baMdara para sTImarane lAMgaravAmAM AvI. pAMca miniTa paNa AghuMpAchuM nahi. TApu para pharavA mATe eka kalAkano samaya apAyo. be vizALa daravAjA kholavAmAM AvyA. koNe kayA daravAjAmAMthI bahAra nIkaLavAnuM te paNa spaSTa. nIkaLatI vakhate darekane pAsa apAyA ke jethI ejiyana samudranA TApumAM 9 111

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koI phAlatu mANaso IrAdApUrvaka ke ajANatAM bhUlathI sTImaramAM ghUsI na jAya. hAIDrA mATe eka kalAkano samaya ocho lAgyo. paraMtu kinAre eka ja mukhya rastA para pharavAnuM hatuM. sTImara Ave tyAre bhAre avarajavara, pachI sUmasAma dukAnomAM zAMkhanI, yAdagIrInI cIjavastu maLe. hAIDrA TApu kalAkAranA TApu tarIke oLakhAya che. TekarIthI zobhato A raLiyAmaNo TApu citrakArone gamI jAya evo che. keTalAka citrakAro ahIM AvIne 2he che. jUnA vakhatamAM ahIM ochA loko vasatA, kAraNa ke kyAreka dariyAI pavana joradAra banI jAya che; koIka vAra vAvAjhoDuM paNa thAya che. paraMtu keTalAka zrImaMta mANasoe ahIM pAkAM majabUta makAno bAMdhyAM che, jethI vAvAjhoDAMnI bahu cintA have rahI nathI. havA khAvAnA eka suMdara TApu tarIke te vikhyAta che. badhAM pravAsIo samaya karatAM vahelA pAchA AvI gayAM hatAM. pha2vAnuM eTaluM nahotuM ane sTImara cUkI javAnuM kone posAya ? nizcita samaye sTImara UpaDI porosa TApu tarapha. pharI sUcanA cAlu thaI. phoTogrAphara vyaktigata ane samUhagata lAkSaNika mudrAvALA phoTA pADato jato hato. epolonA Delosa TApu vize mAhitI ApatAM gAIDe kahyuM, 'eka kALe DelosamAM epolonuM bhavya maMdira hatuM. emAM epolonI vizALa mUrti hatI. Delosa bahu samRddha hatuM, enI pavitratA jALavavA mATe ApaNA mAnyAmAM na Ave evo kAyado prAcIna kALamAM thayo hato. e kAyadA pramANe Delosane prasUti ane mRtyu jevI azucimaya ghaTanAthI abhaDAvI zakAya nahi. eTale e be upara tyAM pratibaMdha hato. sagarbhA strIne ane maraNapathArIe paDelA vRddhone veLAsara tyAMthI khaseDI bAjunA TApu para mokalavAmAM AvatAM. Avo vicitra kAyado loko zraddhApUrvaka pALatA. aneka zrImaMta mANaso moMghI moMghI bheTa epolone dha2AvavA mATe dUra dUrathI AvatA. ethI Delosa TApu bahu zrImaMta banI gayo hato. paraMtu eka pradezanI samRddhi bIjAthI khamAya nahi. dAnata bagaDe. I.sa. pUrva 88nI sAlamAM ponTasa rAjyanA rAjAe moTA sainya sAthe Delosa para caDAI karI. maMdira khaMDita thayuM. samRddhi lUMTAI. hajAro nAgarikonI katala thaI. Delosa TApu lohIthI kharaDAyo. enI pavitratA naSTa thaI gaI. TApu ujjaDa ane kaMgALa banI gayo. pharI Delosa potAnI asala samRddhi ane teja kyAreya prApta na karI zakyo. 112 * pravAsa-darzana

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caDatIpaDatInI vAta bIjA eka TApu vize paNa kahevAmAM AvI. enuM nAma siphanosa (sifnos). prAcIna kALamAM tyAM prajA bahu garIba hatI. evAmAM e beTamAM keTalIka sonAnI khANo maLI AvI. sonuM nIkaLatAM loko jotajotAMmAM zrImaMta banI gayA. teo dharmazraddhALu hatA. temaNe nakkI karyuM ke grIsanA taLapradezamAM DelhImAM AvelA maMdiramAM sonAnI koI AkarSaka vastu banAvIne bheTa dharAvavI. ethI tenI samRddhi vadhatI gaI. eka vakhata teo DelphInA maMdiramAM bheTa dharAvI stuti karatA hatA tyAM devavANI thaI, "he siphanosavAsIo ! Avate varSe tame zAhamRganA IMDA jeTalI moTI ane sAva sonAnI AkRti mane bheTa tarIke dharAvajo !" A devavANI sAMbhaLI siphanosavAsIo stabdha thaI gayA. temane thayuM ke devane paNa have sonAno lobha lAgyo che. bIjI bAju teo paNa jAya tevA nahotA. teoe mAMhomAMhe maLIne khAnagI yukti karI. teoe IMDAnA AkArano Arasano paththara ghaDAvyo. enA upara sonAno DhoLa caDAvyo. bIje varSe parvanA divase teoe devane sonAnuM IMDuM bheTa dharAvyuM. e vakhate pharI devavANI thaI, "he siphanosavAsIo ! tamane lobha vaLagyo che. tame mArI sAthe chetarapiMDI karI che. tame paththara para sonAno gileTa karIne lAvyA cho e huM jANuM chuM. tame mArI kasoTImAMthI pAra na paDI zakyA. huM tamane zApa ApuM chuM ke havethI tamArI sonAnI khANo khalAsa thaI jaze." AthI siphanosavAsIo gabharAI gayA. badhA bhakto vacce temanI Ijjata gaI. pachIthI banyuM paNa barAbara zApa pramANe. sonuM nIkaLatuM baMdha thaI gayuM. thoDA vakhatamAM ja temanI zrImaMtAI ghaTI gaI ane siphanosa TApu kAyamane mATe jhAMkho paDI gayo. A TApuonI bhAtabhAtanI lAkSaNikatA hoya che. ahIM eka TApu evo che ke tyAMnAM makAnomAM dAkhala thavAno daravAjo nIce nahi paNa be mALa jeTale UMce che. makAnanI bhIMto nakkara, majabUta che. makAnamAM javA mATe lAkaDAnI chUTI nisaraNI rAkhavAmAM Ave che. koIkane prazna thAya ke gharamAM javA mATe ATalI UMcI nisaraNI zA mATe ? rojeroja bahAra javA-AvavAmAM keTalI badhI takalIpha paDe ? vaLI gharamAM dAkhala thavAno daravAjo paNa eTalo nAno ke vAMkA vaLyA vagara dAkhala na thaI zakAya. paNa ghara bAMdhanArAne lAgyuM haze ke ATalI takalIpha uThAvavI sArI. jUnA vakhatamAM dariyAI cAMciyA jema madhadariye vahANo lUMTI letA tema ejiyana samudranA TApumAM ja 113

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nAnA TApuo para jaI lokone paNa lUMTI letA. gharavakharI paNa upADI jatA. strI para baLAtkAra karatA. Ano upAya zo karavo ? lokoe svarakSaNano rasto zodhI kADhyo. dariyAmAM cAMciyAnuM vahANa AvatuM dekhAya eTale niyata karelo nirIkSaka jorathI ghaMTa vagADe. khetaromAM ane anyatra kAma karatA badhA mANaso tarata potapotAnA gharamAM caDI jAya ane nisaraNIo gharanI aMdara khaseDI levAya. cAMciyAo Ave, ATalI UMcI dIvAla caDI na zake. te phAve nahi eTale nirAza thaI cAlyA jAya, kadAca koI tophAna macAve to uparathI dhagadhagatI vastuo pheMkAya. A vAta sAMbhaLatA lAgyuM ke dareka prajAmAM svarakSaNa mATe potAnA vaiyaktika upAyo zodhI kADhavAnI kuneha rahelI che. amArI sTImara porosa baMdare pahoMcI. amane eka kalAkano samaya apAyo. porosa TApunI lAkSaNikatA e che ke te taLa bhUminI sAva najIka Avelo che. dariyAnI sAva sAMkaDI paTTI vaccethI pasAra thAya che. ApaNe sTImaramAM beThAM hoIe, bedhyAna hoIe ane koIe kahyuM na hoya ke ahIM sAMkaDI sAmudradhunI che to evo bhrama thAya ke ApaNI sTImara rastA para to nathI cAlatI ne ? sAmudradhunInI baMne bAju be nAnI nAnI TekarIo para nagara vasyAM che. ekanuM nAma porosa ane bIjAnuM nAma gulATA. khetI ane Dhorauchera temano mukhya vyavasAya che. lIMbu, oliva vagerenAM vRkSo ahIM sArAM thAya che. ahIM moTarakAra jevAM vAhano nathI. page cAlIne ja badhe javAnuM.' kinArA paranA rastA para laTAra mArI ame pAchA sTImaramAM pahoMcI gayA. have amArI sTImare ejinA TApu tarapha prayANa karyuM. bhojanano samaya thayo eTale e mATe sUcanA apAI. judA judA jUthanA judA judA naMbara pramANe dareke bhojana mATe javAnuM hatuM. badhuM evuM vyavasthita ke vilaMba thAya nahi ane sarvane saMtoSa thAya. bhojana pachI jeone jhokuM khAvuM hoya temane mATe eka khaMDamAM sophA ane ArAma khurazInI sagavaDa hatI. keTalAke eno lAbha levo cAlu karyo. bIjAM keTalAMka Amatema, uparanIce pharatAM hatAM. phoTogrAphara jAgatAM ane UMghatAM evA ghaNAMne kemerAmAM jhaDapI leto hato. bhojananA virAma pachI lokasaMgIta ane lokanRtyano kAryakrama zarU thayo. uparanI kaeNbinamAM holanI jema khurazI goThavAI gaI. tema chatAM keTalAMkane UbhA rahevuM paDyuM. amArAmAMnA keTalAMke aMdara jagyA meLavI 114 * pravAsa-darzana

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lIdhI. meM UbhAM UbhAM emanAM saMgIta-nRtyanI lAkSaNikatAno paricaya karI lIdho. be gIta sAMbhaLyA pachI huM bahAra Avyo. mAre mATe samudradarzana paNa eTaluM ja AslAdaka hatuM. ejiyana samudranI taDakAvALI AbohavA mane to bhAratanI AbohavAne maLatI lAgI. prAcIna samayamAM AvI anukULa havAmAM ja jIvana sArI rIte pAMgarI zakatuM ane prajAno sAMskRtika vikAsa thato. bahAra Deka para mArI jema bIjAM paNa keTalAMka pravAsIo beThAM hatAM. pAse beThelA eka vaDIla sadagRhasthano paricaya thayo. te grIsanA ja vatanI hatA. pahelAM eka TApumAM rahetA hatA. have ethensamAM rahe che. koI koI vakhata samudramAM ane TApuomAM ghUmavAnuM mana thAya to AvI rIte pravAsamAM joDAI jAya che. emanI sAthe TApuonA jIvana vize vAto thatAM keTalIka rasika bAbato jANavA maLI. A samudranA dvIpI (Islander) lokone bilADI pALavAno zokha ghaNo che. teo ene zukanavaMtI mAne che. keTalAka pAdarIo bilADIo rAkhe che. eka TApumAM evo vicitra niyama che ke pALelAM pazupakSIomAM phakta bilADInI ja vastI vadhavI joIe. eTale bilADI sivAya bIjo koI mAdA pazupakSI e TApu para lAvI zakAya nahi. chellAM eka hajAra varSathI A niyama paLAto Avyo che. pazupakSI vize vAta nIkaLatAM bIjA eka TApunI rasika ghaTanA emaNe kahI. A samudramAM mikonosa nAmano eka nAno TApu che. I.sa. 1950mAM tyAM evI eka ghaTanA banI ke eka pelikana pakSI vAvAjhoDAthI bacavA mATe UDatuM UDatuM A TApu para AvI pahoMcyuM. AvuM navI jAtanuM pakSI joI loko bahu rAjI thaI gayAM. lokoe ene bhAvatuM khavaDAvI-pivaDAvIne evuM sAcavyuM ke divase UDIne e game tyAre AsapAsa jAya paNa sAMje to TApu para ja hoya, potAnA pradezamAM e pAchuM gayuM nahi. lokoe enuM nAma pADyuM "peTrosa". peTrosa eTaluM badhuM lADakuM banI gayuM ke bahAranA koI atithi ke pravAsI Ave to loko emane peTrosa batAve. eka divasa peTrosa UDIne gayuM, paNa sAMje pAchuM AvyuM nahi. cAre bAjunA TApumAM tapAsa thaI. khabara paDI ke pAsenA Tinosa TApumAM e gayuM hatuM tyAre lokoe ene pakaDIne enAM thoDAM pIMchAM kADhI nAkhyAM ke jethI e bahu UDI na zake. AthI mikonosanA yuvAno roSe bharAyA. Tinosa para sazastra AkramaNa karI pakSIne pAchuM meLavavA emaNe taiyArI karI. e vAtanI khabara paDatAM TinosanA meyare potAnA dvIpavAsI sAthe masalata karIne nirNaya karyo ejiyana samudranA TApumAM 9 115

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ke hArIne pakSI pAchuM ApavuM ane kAyamanI duzmanAvaTa vahoravI enA karatAM bahumAnapUrvaka pakSI pAchuM ApI devuM. temaNe mikonosavAsIone enI jANa karI dIdhI ane pakSIne laIne vahANamAM AvI pahoMcyA. ethI AnaMdita thayelA mikonosavAsIo baMdara para ekatra thaI, DholanagArAM sAthe vAjategAjate peTrosane nagarapraveza dvIpapraveza karAvyo. - peTrosa sAthe lokone eTalI badhI AtmIyatA thaI ke teone lAgyuM ke peTrosa moTo thayo che mATe enAM lagna karAvavAM joIe. loko tapAsa karIne eka mAdA pelikanane laI AvyA. enI sAthe peTrosanAM dhAmadhUmathI lagna karAvyAM. samagra mikonosamAM lagnotsava UjavAyo. paraMtu mANasomAM bane che evuM pazupakSIomAM paNa bane che. peTrosa ane enI patnI vacce keTaloka vakhata sAro premasaMbaMdha rahyo. pachI koNa jANe zuM thayuM te peTrosa risAI gayo. mAdAe ene manAvavA bahu divasa prayatno karyA, paNa peTrosa enI sAme jue paNa nahi. AthI AghAta lAgatAM mAdAe peTrosa AgaLa ja ApaghAta karyo. kevI rIte ? UMce UDI e jamIna para traNa vAra vegathI paTakAI. ethI enI cAMca tUTI gaI.enuM mAthuM bhAMgI gayuM. A rIte mAdAe potAnA jIvanano aMta ANyo, ethI peTrosa du:khI thayo ane e paNa jhAjhuM jIvyo nahi. peTrosa pakSInI A vAta sAMbhaLI pakSImAM paNa rahelI mAnavasahaja tIvra saMvedanazIlatAno khayAla Avyo. vAtomAM samaya kyAM pasAra thaI gayo tenI khabara nA rahI. jAherAta thaI ane thoDI vAramAM ejinA TApu para ame AvI pahoMcyAM. amArI sTImara have sAronika akhAtamAM pravezI cUkI hatI. sTImaramAMthI nIkaLIne ame baMdara para pahoMcyAM. ejinA TApu paurANika ane aitihAsika mahattvano che. 85 corasa kilomITa2nA pradezavALo ane bAra hajAranI vastI dharAvato, sAronika akhAtano A moTAmAM moTo TApu ochA samayamAM page cAlIne joI zakAya nahi. e mATe basanI TUra levI ja paDe. ame TikiTa laI emAM joDAyA ane badhe pharI vaLyA. ejinAmAM eka TekarI para lagabhaga aDhI hajAra varSa pUrve, eTale ke I.sa. pUrve 490mAM baMdhAyeluM ephAIyA (Aphaia) devInuM maMdira che. te ethensanA pArthenona (Parthenon) karatAM paNa vaheluM baMdhAyuM hatuM. grIka sthApatyakalA ane zilpakalA tyAre keTalI ucca koTie pahoMcI hatI enI 116 * pravAsa-darzana

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pratIti e karAve che. e maMdiranA 32 UMcA moTA staMbhamAMthI 22 jeTalA staMbha haju paNa jema hatA tema che. e jotAM ja maMdiranI bhavyatAno khyAla Ave che. vaLI AzcaryanI vAta e che ke UMcAI para bAMdhavAmAM AvelAM traNa grIka prAcIna maMdiro (ethensanuM pArthenona, ejinAnuM ephAIyA maMdira ane soyuniyana bhUziranuM paoNliDonanuM maMdira) trikoNAkAre barAbara samAntare che. e batAve che ke A vidyA temanI pAse keTalI cokkasAI bharelI hatI. jyAre havAmAna atyaMta svaccha hoya che tyAre e maMdiro ahIMthI dekhAya che. ejino TApumAM bIjuM eka aitihAsika sthaLa te saMta ejiyo nekAriosanI monesTarI (maTha) che. saMta tyAM bAvIsa varSa rahyA hatA, emanI pAse mAMdA mANasane sAjA karavAnI zakti hatI. ethI ja I.sa. 1921mAM emanA svargavAsa pachI emane saMtanuM biruda ApavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. ejinA TApu para Thera Thera pistAnAM vRkSo hatAM. pistAnAM jhUmakhAMthI lacI paDatAM madhyama kadanAM hArabaMdha vRkSothI ejinA vadhu sohAmaNo lAgato hato. A vRkSo mATe taDako anivArya che. ahIMnI jamIna ane AbohavA paNa e mATe anukULa che. ejinA pistA mATe prakhyAta che. basamAM ame pharatAM hatAM tyAre judA judA aMtare AvatAM nAnAM nAnAM khristI devaLa batAvIne gAIDe kahyuM, 'jUnA vakhatanAM khAlI paDelAM AvAM 38 devaLo A TApu para che.' "ATalo nAno TApu ane ATalAM badhAM devaLo ? khristI dharmamAM ATalA badhA phAMTA che ?' koIke prazna karyo. 'hAla 38 devaLa astitvamAM che. baMdhAyAM hatAM tyAre to kula 365 devaLa hatAM." gAIDe kahyuM. bApa re ! to to lokomAM dharmanA bahu jhaghaDA thatA haze ! dareka kuTuMbanuM potAnuM juduM devaLa haze !' koIke kahyuM. amAre tyAM bhAratamAM bhagavAna mahAvIranA vakhatamAM 363 paMtha hatA. e badhAnA eka eka pratinidhie ahIM punaru avatAra to nahi dhAraNa karyo hoya ne ? - meM majAkamAM kahyuM. gAIDe khulAso karatAM kahyuM, "nA, tyAre ahIM koI vADA ke paMtha nahotA. badhA eka ja hatA. vastI bahu ochI ane jIvana ekavidha hatuM. eTale emAM vaividhya ANavA mATe lokoe eka navo nusakho zodhI kADhyo. roja navA devaLamAM prArthanA karavI. AkhuM varSa A rIte cAle. mATe naMbara ejiyana samudranA TApumAM 9 117

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pramANe 365 devaLa karyA. devaLo nAnAM nAnAM ane pAse pAse. dareka devaLano pAcho bIjA varase naMbara lAge, paNa sAphasUphI rojeroja thAya. badhAMe javAbadArI vaheMcI lIdhelI." ejinAno A nusakho mane bahu gamI gayo. TApunAM darzana karI ame pAchA sTImaramAM beThAM. have prayANa thayuM ethensa tarapha. phoTA mATe sUcanA apAI ke "borDa para badhA phoTA mUkavAmAM AvyA che. jemane kharIdavA hoya te kharIdI zake che. kharIdavAnuM baMdhana nathI." ame amArA keTalAka phoTA kharIdyA. samayasara ame ethensa AvI pahoMcyAM. bhUtakALane tAdRza karI ApanAro A rasika, samRddha anubhava vAraMvAra vAgoLavA jevo banI gayo. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) 118 pravAsa-darzana

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16 korintha (grIsa) vizvamAM prAcInatama saMskRti tarIke bhAratIya saMskRtinI gaNanA thAya che. aDhI-traNa hajAra varSa pUrvenA zilpasthApatyAdi prakAranA sAMskRtika avazeSo bhUmadhya samudranA kinArAnA keTalAka dezomAM je jovA maLe che teTalA prAcIna avazeSo bhAratamAM jovA maLatA nathI. bhUmadhya samudranA te dezonI prajAoe paththara pAsethI je kalAtmaka kAma e yugamAM lIdhuM hatuM te ananya che. grIsanI prajAe aDhI-traNa hajAra varSa pahelAM potAnAM keTalAMka vizALa bhavya maMdiromAM, hAthe ghaDIne taiyAra karelA dasa-paMdara phUTa jeTalA UMcA ane tenA pramANamAM pahoLA, TanabaMdha vajanavALA staMbho UbhA karIne je bAMdhakAma karyuM hatuM temAMthI evA keTalAye staMbho enI e ja jagyAe haju aDIkhama UbhA che. dharatIkaMpo, vAvAjhoDAMo, yuddho vagerenI sAme adyApiparyata te aNanama rahyA che. zilpasthApatyanI vidyA tyAre grIsamAM keTalI badhI vikasI haze teno ApaNane khyAla Ave che. ame keTalAka pravAsIo eka TUra kaMpanInA Ayojana dvArA grIsanA pravAse gayAM hatAM tyAre ethensa pachI korinthanI mulAkAtano amAre mATe kAryakrama goThavAyo hato. ethensathI cA-nAsto karIne savAre ame basamAM nIkaLyAM. ethensathI COLOYOL HLS HISCL gz sifrel (Corinth-ols PIGE Korinthos) AveluM che. unALAnA divaso hatA, paNa savArano samaya hato eTale korintha = 119

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vAtAvaraNa khuzanumA hatuM. zahera choDatAM pahelAM amArI basa eka sthaLe UbhI rahI. tyAMthI amArA gAIDa besavAnA hatA. gAiDe dAkhala thaI badhAMnuM svAgata karyuM. potAno paricaya Apyo. teo nivRtta sarakArI amaladAra hatA. mAthe vacce moTI TAla hatI ane AsapAsa dhoLA vALa hatA te parathI teo sittere pahoMcavA AvyA haze ema lAgyuM. temaNe potAnuM nAma kahyuM paNa te yAda rahyuM nathI. temaNe korinthano paricaya Apyo je nIce mujaba che : - grIsanA prAcIna nagaromAM ethensa, spArTA, korintha, DelphI, olimpiyA vageremAM korintha sauthI vadhu jUnuM che. ethensa karatAM paNa te vadhu prAcIna che. atyAre grIsa eka deza che, paNa te kALe ethensa, spArTA, korintha vagerenAM judAM judAM nagararAjyo hatAM. emAM ethensa enA e ja sthaLe moTA nagara tarIke haju paNa vidyamAna rahyuM che. paraMtu spArTI ane korintha bhagnAvazeSa banI gayAM che. tenI bAjumAM nagaro vasyAM che, paNa te nAnAM ane mahattva vinAnAM che. bIjA vizvayuddha pachI korinthanA vistAramAM ghaNuM khodakAma thayuM che ane bhagna nagaranA bahu avazeSo have tyAM najare jovA maLe che. korinya pAMca hajAra varSa pahelAM vaseluM nagara che. tyArathI Aja divasa sudhI enuM nAma "korintha' ja rahyuM che. AraMbhamAM amuka jAtinA loko tyAM AvIne vasyA haze. A sthaLanI pasaMdagInuM mukhya kAraNa tyAre pANInuM hatuM. jyAM pIvAnuM pANI pUratA pramANamAM maLI rahe tyAM rakhaDu jAtio vasavATa karatI. korintha pAse jharaNAMonuM pANI vipula pramANamAM che. vaLI korintha pAse parvata che. eTale killA jevuM kudaratI rakSaNa ene maLI rahetuM. taduparAMta thoDA mAIlanA aMtare ja, korinthanI be bAju be samudra che - korinthano akhAta ane sAronika akhAta. A zahera uttarottara samRddha thatuM gayuM haze, kAraNa ke lagabhaga poNA traNa hajAra varSa pUrve grIka kavi homare potAnA mahAkAvyamAM korinthano eka samRddha nagara tarIke ullekha karyo che. IsavIsana pUrvenA navamA saikAmAM Doriyana jAtinA lokoe koriW upara caDAI karIne teno kabajo meLavyo hato. te pUrve vividha jAtinI prajAoe tyAM AvIne vasavATa karyo hato. korinthanA prAcIna itihAsanI bahu vigato maLatI nathI, paNa je saMdarbho maLe che te parathI ema manAya che ke sisiphasa korinthano prathama rAjA hato. pAMkhavALo UDato ghoDo 120 * pravAsa-darzana

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'pegAsasa' e enuM sattAvAra rAjadvArI pratIka hatuM. IsavIsana pUrve chaThThA-sAtamA saikAmAM korinthanuM rAjya vistAra pAmatuM gayuM hatuM. vepAra-udyoga ane vahANavaTAmAM korintha ghaNI pragati karI hatI. mATInAM moTAM vAsaNo, enA upara citrakAma, vaNATakAma, dhAtunI cIjavastuo, ojAro, yuddha mATenAM hathiyAro vagere khodakAma karatAM je maLyAM che te parathI jaNAya che ke koriLyuM tyAre ghaNI pragati karI haze. IsavIsana pUrve chaThThA-sAtamA saikAmAM sAiselsa ane pachI enA putra periAnDaranA zAsanakALa daramiyAna korinthanI bahu jAhojalAlI hatI. - A yugamAM korinthamAM grIka sUrya-devatA (tathA saMgIta, saMrakSaNa ane pavitratAnA devatA) epolonuM maMdira baMdhAyuM hatuM. enA keTalAka staMbha Aje paNa tyAM jovA maLe che. e vakhate nagarakoTa tarIke korintha bAMdhelI majabUta dIvAla eTalI moTI ane vistAravALI hatI ke evI moTI dIvAla grIsamAM bIje kyAMya baMdhAI nahotI. zilpa sthApatyanuM ghaNuM suMdara kAma A yuga daramiyAna thayuM hatuM. paraMtu samRddhinI Toce pahoMcelAM nagaronuM keTalIka vAra thAya che tevuM ja korinthanuM thayuM hatuM. IsavIsananA bIjA saikAthI lagabhaga dasamA saikA sudhI korinthanI jANe dazA beThI hoya ema banyA karyuM. ethensa sAthe yuddha thayuM, meseDoniyAe AkramaNa karyuM, romanoe caDAI karI, parziyanoe laDAI karI, oTomAna turka lokoe saMhAra karyo. Ama videzIonAM AkramaNo thayAM, dharatIkaMpo thayAM, duzamanoe AkhA zaherane Aga lagADI ane e rIte korintha khedAnamedAna thaI gayuM, ujjaDa banI gayuM hatuM. gAiDe korintha vize amane ghaNI mAhitI ApI. romanonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna ane pachI tuka lokonA rAjyasamaya daramiyAna korije keTaloka vakhata prApta karelI jAhojalAlIno paNa amane khayAla Apyo. tyAre korinthanI eka pacaraMgI nagara tarIke khyAti vadhI hatI. korintha AvatAM pahelAM amArI basa eka sthaLe UbhI rahI. ame sI nIce Utaryo. korinthanI nahera amane batAvavAmAM AvI. korinthano vistAra eTale be samudra vaccenI nAnI paTTI (Isthmus) arthAt saMyogI bhUmi eka bAju korinthano akhAta ane bIjI bAju sAronika samudra. baMnene joDatI nahera jo khodavAmAM Ave to rojeroja keTalAMye vahANonuM so mAIlanuM cakkara bacI jAya, paraMtu nakkara paththaramAM nahera khodavAnuM saheluM nahotuM. naherano vicAra periAnDarane Avyo hato. paNa e zakya na korintha 121

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hovAthI eNe evI yojanA vicArI ke eka cheDe vahANa UbhAM rahe. emAMthI mAla utArIne paiDAMvALAM vAhanomAM mUkavAmAM Ave ane bIje cheDe pahoMcADavAmAM Ave. e vAhano sArI rIte cAlI zake e mATe sapATa rasto karavo joIe. paNa enI yojanA sarakhI amalamAM AvI nahi. tyAra pachI romanonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna samrATa nIro iTalIthI korintha Avyo hato. enI samakSa naheranI yojanA mUkavAmAM AvI. te vAta ene gaLe UtarI. eNe hukama choDyo ane nahera khodavA mATe cha hajAra gulAmone kAme lagADI devAmAM AvyA. paraMtu evAmAM romamAM baLavo thayo eTale gulAmone pAchA bolAvI levAmAM AvyA. pachInA saikAomAM naheranI yojanA kyAreya thaI nahi. chevaTe ogaNIsamI sadImAM nahera karavAmAM AvI. dariyAnI sapATI karatAM jamInanI sapATI ghaNI ja UMcI che ane paththara evo nakkara che ke nahera karatAM ghaNAM varSo lAgyAM ane kharca paNa ghaNuM thayuM hatuM. ame uparathI joyuM to nahera bahu ja sAMkaDI, eka nAnI sTImara pasAra thaI zake evaDI che, paraMtu nIce bhUrA pANImAM vArApharatI sarakatI jatI, uparathI nAnI dekhAtI sTImaronuM dRzya gamI jAya evuM hatuM. eka bAjunA korinthanA akhAtanI vAta karatAM gAiDe kahyuM ke A akhAtanI racanA evI che ke korinthanI rAjyasattAnuM enI para sAruM varcasva TakI rahyuM hatuM. I.sa. 1571mAM oTomAna turka ane korintha vacce jyAre yuddha thayuM tyAre A akhAtamAM khelAyelA naukAyuddhamAM kula tetrIsa hajAra turka nausainikone DubADI devAmAM AvyA hatA. tyAra pachI eno badalo levA turkastAne paNa hajAro grIka lokono saMhAra karyo hato. korinthanI nahera joI ame basamAM beThAM. gAIDe kahyuM, 'have ApaNe korinthanA avazeSo jovA jaIzuM. tyAM ThIka ThIka vAra lAgaze ane laMca mATe tamAre thoDuM moDuM thaze. eTale pahelAM ApaNe ahIM eka sToramAM jaIe chIe. tyAM kaoNphI, biskiTa vagere maLe che ane yAdagIrInI vastuo (souvenir) paNa maLe che. e mATe tamane vIsa miniTano samaya ApavAmAM Ave che." amane badhAne e sToramAM laI javAmAM AvyAM. paNa amArAmAMthI koI pravAsIe na kazuM khAdhuM pIdhuM ke na kazI kharIdI karI. tyAM badhuM moMghuMdATa hatuM eTale akAraNa DaoNlara kharcI nAkhavAno koIno jIva cAlato nahoto. yAdagIrI ane zokhanI cIjavastuonA bhAva amArA jevA bhAratIya 122 4 pravAsa-darzana

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pravAsIo mATe AsamAnI hatA. eTale saue enAM darzanathI ja saMtoSa mAnyo. samaya thayo eTale badhA nIkaLavA lAgyAM. huM chelle nIkaLato hato evAmAM mAruM dhyAna amArA gAIDa para paDyuM. teo keziyara mahilAnA Tebala pAse UbhA hatA. emanI bhASAmAM zI vAtacIta thatI haze te samajAyuM nahi, paraMtu keziyaranA Tebala para vecavA mATe mUkelAM cokaleTanA pekeTamAMthI gAiDe eka upADyuM, paNa keziyara mahilAe e tarata chInavI laI pAchuM mUkI dIdhuM. e parathI temanI vacce zo saMvAda thayo haze tenI anumAnathI meM kalpanA karI. kaeNziyare kahyuM haze ke "tamArA pravAsIomAMthI koIe kazI kharIdI karI nathI eTale tamane kamizanarUpe kazuM maLI zake nahi." gAIDe kahyuM haze, "koI kazI kharIdI na kare temAM huM zuM karuM? tamArA sToramAM badhAMne laI Avyo e mATe kaMI nahi to caoNkaleTanuM eka pekeTa to Apazo ke nahi ?" e game te hoya, paNa gAiDanA bolavAno raNako pachI kaMIka badalAyo hato e to samajanAra ja samajI zake. basamAM besI ame avazeSonI jagyAe, prAcIna korintha nagaranA sthaLe AvI pahoMcyAM.' korinthanA avazeSo ghaNe dUra sudhI patharAyelA paDyA hatA. gAiDe taDakAthI bacavA mAthe TopI paherI lIdhI ane potAnI pAchaLa AvavA badhAM pravAsIone jaNAvyuM. pravAsIonI moTI maMDaLI hoya tyAre badhAMne ekasarakho rasa na hoya. vaLI taDakAmAM cAlavAnuM hatuM, eka sthaLe UbhA rahI gAiDe samajAvavuM cAlu karyuM. pravAsIomAMnI be yuvatIo vAto karatI dhIme dhIme cAlatI chelle AvI pahoMcI. emaNe pharIthI samajAvavAno gAIDane Agraha karatAM kahyuM, "havethI badhAM AvI jAya pachI samajAvavAnuM tame cAlu karo." gAiDe kahyuM, "tame badhAMnI sAthe AvI jAya to sAruM. ahIM jovAnuM ghaNuM che ane cAlavAnuM paNa ghaNuM che." gAiDe pharIthI badhuM samajAvyuM. tyAMthI ame bIje sthaLe gayAM. pelI be yuvatIo AvI nahotI. badhAMe gAiDane Agraha karyo ane gAiDe cAlu karyuM. tyAM e yuvatIoe AvIne roSapUrvaka gAiDane TokavAnuM cAlu karyuM. keTalAMka pravAsIoe e yuvatIone samajAvavA koziza karI, paNa ethI to e vadhu vipharI. gAiDe kahyuM, "sannArIo, gAiDa sAthe jhaghaDo karavAthI aMte to nukasAna ja thAya che.' paraMta gAiDanA vAkyano zo artha thAya che te teonI samajamAM Avyo nahi. teo babaDatI ja rahI. "ame nANAM pUrAM khacya che to amAre mATe rAha kema na jovI ? amane badhuM samajavAno pUro haka che." AvuM mithyAbhimAna emanA valaNamAM dekhAtuM hatuM. korinka jhaka 123

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koI paNa pravAsamAM gAiDanI sAthe sahRdayatAno siddhAnta ja vadhu lAbhadAyI nIvaDe che. gAiDe keTaluM samajAvyuM ane keTaluM choDI dIdhuM enI ajANyA pravAsIne kevI rIte khabara paDe ? have gAiDano utsAha maMda paDI gayo hato. teo eka pachI eka sthaLe jaI, badhAM AvI pahoMce tyAM sudhI zAntithI UbhA rahI, pachI hasatAM hasatAM pUche, have cAlu karuM ?' pachI e vize cArapAMca vAkyo kahI vAta saMkelI le. gAiDanI navI hasamukhI paddhatino aNasAra amane keTalAka mitrone AvI gayo. pelI yuvatIo mAMhomAMhe bolatI hatI, 'joyuM ? ApaNe bolyAM to ATalo phera paDyo !' ame paNa mAMhomAMhe vAta karatA hatA : 'joyuM ? ApaNe gAiDa sAthe jhaghaDyA ethI ATalo phera paDyo !' tyAra pachI gAiDe bajAravistAra (Agora), kabaro, thiyeTara, epolonuM maMdira vagere dUrathI ja batAvI dIdhAM. pachI teo amane saMgrahasthAna (Museum) pAse laI gayA ane kahyuM, 'A vistAramAMthI je avazeSo maLyA che te A saMgrahasthAnamAM rAkhavAmAM AvyA che. tamane poNA kalAkano samaya ApavAmAM Ave che. e avazeSo joI tame basa para AvI jajo.' ame samajI gayAM ke gAiDe myujhiyamamAM AvIne samajAvavAnuM TALyuM. teo eka bAMkaDA para beThA. badhAM myujhiyamamAM dAkhala thayAM. ame traNeka mitro gAiDa pAse UbhA rahyA ane emanA kAryane biradAvatAM vacano kahyAM ane jijJAsAbharyA keTalAka prazno mRdutApUrvaka pUchyA, amArI sAcI jijJAsA joI gAiDano gAiDa tarIkeno AtmA AnaMdita thaI gayo. emaNe kahyuM, 'tamane sAMskRtika avazeSomAM rasa che, to cAlo, huM tamane keTalAka viziSTa avazeSo batAvuM.' gAiDa amane thoDe dUra laI gayA. eka sthaLe aDhI hajAra varSa prAcIna evAM snAnAgAra hatAM. pANI vahI javA mATenI bhUgarbha nALa hatI. eka sthaLe Adhunika paddhati jevAM zaucAlaya hatAM. tyAra pachI hajAra mANaso ekasAthe jAhera kAryakrama khullAmAM nihALI zake e mATe kevA prakAranI jagyA pasaMda karavAmAM AvI hatI te batAvyuM. gAiDanuM hRdaya jItavAthI teo keTalA khIlI zake te ame pratyakSa anubhavyuM. tyAra pachI gAiDa myujhiyamamAM amArI sAthe AvyA. grIka, romana, bAyajhenTAina vagere yuganI cIjavastuo amane batAvI ane temanI 124 * pravAsa-darzana

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lAkSaNikatA samajAvI. keTalAMka varSa pahelAM AMtararASTriya ToLakI dvArA myujhiyamamAM thayelI corImAM cAlI gayelI eka mahatvanI vastu te DAyonisisanI moTI mukhAkRti che te paNa amane kahyuM. amArAmAMnA ghaNAkharA to pAMca-dasa miniTa myujhiyamamAM AMTA mArI, Amatema pharIne basamAM besI gayAM hatAM. gAiDanA saujanyathI amane thoDuM vizeSa jovA jANavA maLyuM eno AnaMda hato. alabatta, ghaNAMne kazuM gumAvyAnI khabara paNa nahotI ane khabara paDe to aphasosa thAya ema nahoto. Ama paNa A badhI vAto keTalA divasa yAda rahevAnI hatI ? pAMcadasa varSa pachI 'ame grIsamAM korintha paNa gayAM hatAM' eTaluM paNa keTalAMkane yAda na rahe to te samajI zakAya evI vAta che. A to prAcIna sAMskRtika avazeSonA avalokananI vAta hatI, paraMtu vyavahAru DahApaNa to kahe che ke pravAsamAM gAiDa-bhomiyA sAthe jhaghaDavAthI lAbha karatAM nukasAna ja vadhAre thavA saMbhava che. jUnA vakhatanI eka kahevatanuM mane smaraNa thayuM : jaMgale jaTTa (jaMgalI mANasa) na cheDIe, bajAre bakAla; kasabe turka (musalamAna) na cheDIe, nizcaya Ave kALa. AnI jema ja ApaNe kahI zakIe : pravAse bhomiyo na cheDIe, nizcaya cUkIe mArga. badhAM AvI jatAM amArI basa ethensa tarapha pAchI pharI. (posaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) korintha * 125

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17 anokhI bheTa (phrAnsa) iMglenDa ane phrAnsa vacce mAtra bAvIsa mAIlanI dariyAnI khADI che. paraMtu khADInA sAmasAmA baMne kinArAnI prajAnI bhASA judI che ane tAsIra paNa judI che. - iMglenDa ane phrAnsa vacce bhUtakALamAM ghaNAM yuddho khelAyAM che. ekabIjA sAthenI duzmanAvaTa yuddha samaye to ghaNI vadhI jAya. paraMtu zAMtinA samayamAM paNa e baMne prajAne ekabIjA pratye dhULa ke sUkSma aprIti rahyA kare che. temAM paNa yuropamAM ane yuropa bahAranA dezomAM ekabIjA upara sarasAI meLavavAnI bhUtakALanI spardhAmAM phrAnsa karatAM iMglenDa keTalAMka sthaLe vadhu phAvyuM hovAthI jUnA vakhatamAM phrAnsanA lokone iMglenDanuM nAma paDatAM sUga caDhatI. 'bhASA to amArI ja mRdu ane madhura; kavitA ke nATaka amArAM ja UMcI kakSAnAM; citrakaLA ane zilpasthApatyamAM iMglenDanA loko zuM samaje ? e mATenI dRSTi to amArI ja pAse' - Ama phrAnsanA lokomAM eka prakAranI gauravagraMthi paNa paDelI che. pravAsI tarIke iMglenDamAMthI ApaNe phrAnsamAM dAkhala thaIe ane phrAnsanA loko sAthe aMgrejImAM bolIe to e temane game nahIM. koI koI ThekANe to tochaDAIthI teo moM macakoDe ane ApaNI sAthe aMgrejImAM bolavAno spaSTa inakAra karI de. koIka vakhata aMgrejI AvaDatuM hoya topaNa potAne aMgrejI nathI AvaDatuM evo DoLa kare. AkhA yuropanA bIjA badhA 126 * pravAsa-darzana

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loko vyavahAranI samAna itara bhASA tarIke phrenca ke jarmana bhASA jANatA hoya che. eTale teone bahu vAMdho Avato nathI. paraMtu jeo mAtra iMgliza ja jANatA hoya temane koI koI vakhata phrAnsamAM vicitra anubhavo thAya che. alabatta, videzIonI sAthe sArI rIte aMgrejImAM bolanAra premALa phrenca lokono anubhava nathI thato evuM nathI. iMglenDanA kinArethI hovarakrAphTamAM ame moTarakAra sAthe besI phrAnsanA kinAre UtaryA. tyAMthI amAro yuropano pravAsa zarU thato hato. phrAnsamAM hAIve (phrAnsanA loko ene oNtorUta- Autoroute - kahe che.) upara eka sthaLe pArkiMga vistAramAM amArI gADI pArka karIne ame khAvA mATe rokAyAM. ame eka Tebala upara goThavAyAM. amArA pravAsano A pahelo divasa hato. laMDanathI savAre tAjAM garamAgarama lIdhelAM jalebIgAMThiyA paNa amArI sAthe hatAM. cA-kaoNphI sAthe ame te khAvAnuM zarU karyuM. amArI AsapAsanAM Tebalo upara bIjAM ghaNAM mANaso hatAM. bhAratIya tarIke e badhAMmAM ame amArAM paheraveza, raMga ane mukhAkRtine kAraNe judAM tarI AvatAM hatAM. AthI bIjAonuM amArA pratye dhyAna kheMcAya e svAbhAvika hatuM. - amArI bAjunA Tebala upara eka daMpatI beThuM hatuM. sAthe emanI daseka varSanI dIkarI paNa hatI. ame koIka judI ja vAnagIo khAI rahyAM hatAM enI ene navAI lAgatI hatI. e thoDI thoDI vAre amArI vAnagIo sAme Tagara Tagara jotI hatI ane enAM mAtApitAne kaMIka kahetI hatI. emanI bhASA parathI lAgyuM ke teo phrenca loko che. temano paheraveza vagere jotAM jaNAyuM ke teo ThIka zrImaMta hovAM joIe. amArI ekabIjAnI najara maLI eTale meM smita karyuM. pachI meM tarata gujarAtImAM emane kahyuM, "garamAgarama jalebI-gAMThiyA che. thoDAM lezo tame ?' ema kahI meM eka pleTa temanI sAme dharI. mArI bhASA teo samajI zake tema nahotAM, paNa huM zuM kahevA mAguM chuM ke teo samajI gayAM hatAM. mArAM patnIe Takora karatAM mane kahyuM, "tame emanI sAthe gujarAtImAM kema bolo cho ? teo thoDAM ApaNI bhASA samajI zakavAnAM che ?' hA, e sAcuM, paNa mAre to gujarAtImAM ja vAta karavI che. laMDananA keTalAka gujarAtI mitronA anubhava parathI joyuM che ke khAsa karIne phrAnsanA loko sAthe gujarAtImAM zarUAta karavAthI temane mAThuM lAgatuM nathI ane anokhI bheTa 127

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pachI teo ja ApaNI sAthe aMgrejImAM vAta karavA lAge che." meM e sajjanane pharIthI gujarAtImAM kahyuM, "ame muMbaIthI AvIe chIe A jalebI- gAMThiyA amArI gujarAtIonI priya vAnagI che.' jANato hato ke mArI gujarAtI bhASA emane samajAvAnI nathI. teo kazuM samajyAM nahIM, eTale mane pharI bolavA kahyuM. pharIthI meM gujarAtImAM ja bolavAnuM cAlu rAkhyuM. eTale e sajjanane ja pUchyuM, eksakyujha mI, DU yU spIka iMgliza ?' a liTala.' oha ! nAisa !' pachI aMgrejImAM amAro vyavahAra cAlu thayo. emane ane emanI dIkarIne ame jalebI-gAMThiyA khavaDAvyAM. temane khUba bhAvyAM. te kevI rIte banAvAya te mArAM patnIe temane samajAvyuM. ame temane pUchyuM, "A vAnagIo pahelAM tame koI divasa khAdhI che ?' temaNe kahyuM, "amArI jiMdagImAM kyAreya AvI vAnagI ame joI nathI.' dhIme dhIme teo amArA TebalanI AsapAsa goThavAI gayAM. yuropIya ane bhAratIya jIvana vize ghaNI vAto nIkaLI. e sajjane kahyuM, "tame badhAM sAruM iMgliza bolo cho.' "hA, amane zALAmAM itara bhASA tarIke iMgliza zIkhavAnI taka maLe che. paraMtu ame iMglizamAM bolIe te kadAca tamane game ke na game, eTalA mATe meM mArI mAtRbhASAmAM tamArI sAthe vAtacItanI zarUAta karI. paraMtu e mATe kSamA karazo.' "hA, phrAnsamAM koI koI lokone iMgliza bhASAnI sUga hoya che. paraMtu amane evI nathI. mAre to vAraMvAra yuropamAM ane iMglenDamAM pharavAnuM thAya eTale iMgliza to amAre bolavI ja paDe." paraspara bIjI thoDIka vAto thaI. tyAM e sajjane kahyuM, "tame amane jiMdagImAM kyAreya na cAkhI hoya evI vAnagI khavaDAvI che. have huM paNa tamane eka evI sarasa vastu cakhADavA icchuM chuM ke tamane paNa tamArI jiMdagImAM kAyama yAda rahI jAya." pachI emaNe kahyuM, "thobho, huM mArI gADImAMthI e laI AvuM chuM." ema kahIne jyAM gADIo pArka karI hatI te vistAra tarapha te sajjana gayA. thoDI vAre teo pAchA AvyA. temanA hAthamAM eka moTo bATalo hato. emaNe kahyuM, "A eka uttama prakArano zepeina dArU che. e tamAre 128 9 pravAsa-darzana

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mATe huM lAvyo chuM. tame tamArI jiMdagImAM kadAca A brAnDano zepeina cAkhyo nahi hoya. tamane kAyama yAda rahI jAya evI A cIja che.' ema kahIne emaNe e bATalAnA lebala upara lakhelI vigato tarapha amAruM dhyAna doryuM. paraMtu amane na rasa hato e vigatomAM ke na rasa hato zepeinamAM. to vaLI temanA premabhAvano anAdara karavAnuM paNa yogya na hatuM. eTale emaNe Apelo bATalo svIkArI temano khUba khUba AbhAra mAnI pachI meM haLavethI kahyuM, "tamArI bheTa amane pahoMcI gaI che. amane A bheTa ane tamAro sAva kAyama yAda raheze; paraMtu amArI eka vinaMtI svIkAro. ame koI dArU pItAM nathI. ame jiMdagImAM kyAreya dArU cAkhyo nathI, eTale A bATalAno amAre kazo ja upayoga nathI. tamArA bIjA koI mitrane tame e ApI zakazo." ame dArU pItAM nathI ema jANIne temane bahu Azcarya thayuM. ame bheTa na svIkArI tethI temane thoDo kSobha thayo. amane paNa thoDo kSobha thayo. paraMtu amAro bhAva teo barAbara samajI zakyAM tethI amane gamyuM. thoDI vAra pachI teo badhAM amArI vidAya laI pArkiMga vistAra tarapha cAlyAM. - amArI bIjI bAjunA eka Tebala para beThelA eka yuropiyana sajjana A badhuM dazya joI rahyA hatA. emaNe kahyuM, "tamAre zempainano e bATalo laI levo joIto hato. tame bIjA koIne ApI zakyA hota. A to bahu kImatI dArU che. bajAramAM jaladI e maLato nathI. tame mane e vecAto Apyo hota to huM paNa e laI levA taiyAra hato.' meM kahyuM, "ame dArU pItAM nathI ane bIjAne pivaDAvatAM paNa nathI. ame jANIe chIe ke amArI A vAta badhA lokone samajAya evI nathI. e mATe loko amane aNasamaju gaNe teno paNa amane vAMdho nathI. paraMtu ame temAM zraddhApUrvaka mAnIe chIe.' emaNe kahyuM, "tame sAcA hazo. mane tamArA jevA lokonI navAI lAge che. paraMtu eTalI ja navAI Avo moMgho zepeina dArU pelA mANase tamane bheTa ApavAnuM vicAryuM tenI paNa lAge che.' hA, mane paNa enI navAI lAge che. mANasa AvA moMghA dArUno akabaMdha moTo bATalo potAnI sAthe gADImAM pherave ane jarAka paricaya bIjAne bheTa ApavAno vicAra kare e jevItevI vAta nathI.' meM kahyuM. anokhI bheTa * 129

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amArI vAta cAlatI hatI eTalAmAM pArkiMga vistAramAMthI nIkaLelI eka gADI amArI pAsethI pasAra thaI. emAM te phrenca daMpatI ane temanI dIkarI beThelAM hatAM. amArI sAme joI bUma pADIne emaNe 'bAya ! bAya !' kahyuM . sapheda raMganI e gADI upara amArI najara paDI. enI traNeya bAju moTA akSare 'zempeina' lakheluM hatuM. tarata ame anumAna karyuM ke e sajjana zempeina kaMpanInA DirekTara ke koI moTA oNphisara, ejanTa ke selsamaeNna hovA joIe. ATalo moMgho dArU bheTa ApavAnuM rahasya have amane samajAyuM. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) 130 * pravAsa-darzana

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18 seMTa pIlI (jarmanI) DenmArkanA kaoNpanaheganathI ame jarmanImAM hembarga pahoMcyAM. ame lagabhaga pAMtrIseka bhAratIya pravAsIo hatAM. amArAmAMnAM keTalAMka paMjAbanAM, keTalAMka baMgALanAM ane keTalAMka dakSiNa bhAratanAM hatAM. gujarAtIo ame cAreka hatAM. amArAmAMnAM dakSiNa bhAratanAM pravAsIo sauthI vadhu zrImaMta hatAM. hembarga amAruM vimAna nirdhArita samaya karatAM moDuM pahoMcyuM hatuM. pariNAme hembargamAM amane zaheradarzana mATe laI janArI jarmana gAIDa yuvatIne be kalAka amArI "hoTela elTonAmAM besI rahevuM paDyuM hatuM. ame hoTelamAM pahoMcyAM tyAM lancano samaya thaI gayo hato, paraMtu amArAmAMnAM ghaNAMkharAMe evuM sUcana karyuM ke jo phakta cA-kaoNphI laIne ApaNe tarata basamAM besI jaIe to vadhu samaya na bagaDe ane nagaradarzana mATe ApaNane nirAMta rahe. paraMtu dakSiNa bhAratIya zrImaMta strI-puruSoe lagna levAno Agraha rAkhyo, eTale amAre bIjA be kalAka thobhavuM paDyuM. pariNAme amAro nagaradarzanano kAryakrama be divasamAM vaheMcAI gayo. - amArI basa nagaradarzana mATe UpaDI. zaheranAM myujhiyama, yunivarsiTI, DaoNka vagere keTalAMka sthaLo batAvIne amArI basa hembarganA seMTa paulI nAmanA mazahUra vistAramAMthI pasAra thavA lAgI. amArI gAiDe kahyuM, "saMta paoNla nAmanA saMta mahAtmAnA pavitra nAmathI A vistAra "seMTa polI' seMTa paulI * 131

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tarIke oLakhAya che, paNa hembargano A sauthI vadhu apavitra vistAra che. tame rastAnI baMne bAju najara karo eTale khAtarI thaze !" seMTa paulI vistAranA rIparabahAna nAmanA dhorI rastAnI baMne bAju naja2 karatAM thoDe thoDe aMtare AvatI dukAno upara nagna strIonAM moTAM moTAM posTaro lagAvelAM najare paDyAM. vaLI dukAnonI bahAra saMkhyAbaMdha raMgIna zRMgArI phoTAo kAcanA kabATamAM laTakAvelA dekhAtA hatA. SexKinonAM, PornonAM Live-ShownAM sAinaborDa dukAno upara moTA akSare lakhelAM vaMcAtAM hatAM. amArI gAiDe kahyuM, "hembargano A vistAra duniyAnA AvA vistAromAM sauthI moTo che. hembarga yuropanuM eka moTuM ane jUnuM baMdara che. roja hajAro khalAsIonI avarajavara ahIM thAya che ane jyAM khalAsIonI avarajavara bahu hoya tyAM AvA vistAro paNa svAbhAvika rIte hoya. DaoNka pAse A vistAra saikAo pahelAM cAlu thayelo. vakhatovakhata ene Adhunika rUpa apAtuM gayuM che. ahIMno vezyAvADo AkhI duniyAmAM sauthI vadhu adyatana ane phezanebala che. e jovA roja hajAro pravAsIo ahIM Ave che.' vaLI eNe kahyuM, "A vistAra nAmacIna che. rAtanA ekaladokalA pharanAra pravAsI ahIM lUMTAI jAya che. ahIM phasAvavAnA dhaMdhA puSkaLa cAle che. ahIM nAiTaklabamAM jatAM bahu sAvadha rahejo. jarmana chokarIo bahu jabarI ane Akramaka svabhAvanI hoya che. teo eskorTa tarIke nAiTaklabamAM tamArI sAthe Ave to tamArA kharce puSkaLa Driksa pI le che. enA bhAva paNa vadhAre hoya che ane bila banAvavAnI bAbatamAM nAiTaklabamAM veiTaronI smaraNazakti irAdApUrvaka bahu sArI hotI nathI, eTale dhAryA karatAM bila bahu moTuM Ave che. klabamAM janAra ekaladokala pravAsInuM khIsuM jyAM sudhI pUrepUruM khaMkheravAmAM na Ave tyAM sudhI tene bahAra nIkaLavA tuM nathI. keTalIka klabomAM bahAra vastravihIna yuvatIonA AkarSaka phoTA mUkavAmAM AvyA hoya che, paNa praveza phI ApIne tame aMdara dAkhala thAva tyAre tyAM nRtya karanAra nagna yuvatIo nathI hotI, guMDAo hoya che je tamane mArIne tamAruM badhuM paDAvI le che. alabatta, Ano artha e nathI ke ahIMnI badhI ja nAiTaklabo kharAba che. keTalIka ghaNI sArI paNa che ane jovA jevI che. tame badhAM ja grupa-bukiMga karAvo to mAre jyAM oLakhANa che te klabamAM tamane praveza-phImAM DiskAunTa apAvI zakIza. tyAM sittera mArka (jarmana calaNa) le che, paNa ApaNI pAsethI vyakti dITha 132 = pravAsa-darzana

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pacAsa mArka leze ane eka Drinka maphata Apaze. huM pote tamArI sAthe AvIza ane tamane kaMI takalIpha na paDe te huM jaIza. tamArI icchA hoya to nakakI karajo. huM rAtre ATha vAge tamArA phonanI rAha joIza. jemane AvavuM hoya te pahelAM vALu karI le. hoTelathI ApaNe cAlatAM jaIzuM, phakta ATha-dasa miniTano rasto che." seMTa paulI ane nAiTaklabonI vAta AvI eTale amArAmAM khaLabhaLATa macI gayo. basamAMthI UtarI hoTelanA lonjamAM ame beThAM tyAre paNa mAMhomAMhe A ja carcA cAlI. amArA grupanAM badhAM ja strIpuruSo lagabhaga pacAsanI uparanI uMmaranAM hatAM. keTalAka puruSo ekalA hatA, keTalAka sajoDe hatA ane keTalIka mahilAo ekalI hatI. ekalA puruSomAMthI cha-sAta puruSoe tarata ja bedhaDaka potAno nirNaya jAhera karI dIdho : "tame game te carcA karo, ame to nAiTaklabamAM javAnA eTale javAnA." sajoDe AvelA keTalAka puruSone javAnI icchA hatI, paraMtu teo jhaTa potAnI icchA vyakta karatA nahotA. keTalIka mahilAoe potAnA patine kahI dIdhuM : "khabaradAra che, jo tame nAiTaklabamAM gayA to !" meM mArA niyama anusAra mAro mata badhAMne spaSTa jaNAvI dIdho : mane A kAryakramamAM rasa nathI. huM temAM AvavAno nathI, mATe tamArA grupamAM mAruM nAma noMdhazo nahi.' madrAsathI AvelI mahilA DaoNkTare UMcA svare badhAMne saMbodhIne kahyuM, paNa A kAryakramamAM ApaNe badhAMe javAnI jarUra zI che ? ApaNe badhAM moTI uMmaranAM chIe ane keTalAMkane to chokarAMne ghare chokarAM che. ApaNe badhAMe bhAratanuM nAma bagADavuM che ? ApaNI bhAratIya saMskRtino to jarA vicAra karo.' bIjI ekalI AvelI eka mahilA zikSikAe mane vinaMtI karatAM kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, tame prophesara cho; tame badhAMne samajAvo ne ke A kAryakramamAM ApaNe koIe javAnI jarUra nathI." pachI eNe pote ja badhAnI sAme pharIne moTethI kahyuM, "ApaNe badhAM atyAre ja nakkI karIe ke koIe nAiTaklabamAM javAnuM nathI. ApaNe ApaNA bhAratanI ane ApaNI saMskRtinI sArI chApa pADavA AvyAM chIe ke kharAba ? amArA jevI ekalI AvelI mahilA nAiTaklabamAM Ave to kevI sthiti thAya eno to jarA vicAra karo." bIjI eka mahilAe emAM sAda purAvyo. potAnA pati sAthe AvelI seMTa paulI - 133

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keTalIka mahilAoe A vAtane jhIlI lIdhI ane koIe javAnuM nathI evo prabaLa sUra pravartAvyo. sajoDe ApelA puruSo to bicArA cUpa hatA. keTalAkano Agraha hato eTale meM paNa thoDAkane samajAvyA ane mahilAone meM kahyuM ke "tame makkama rahezo to A bAbatamAM saphaLa thazo.' ame DAiniMga haoNlamAM jamavA gayAM. amArA Tura-kanDakTare dareka Tebala para pharIne badhAno chevaTano javAba mAgI lIdho. pelA chasAta ekalA AvelA puruSo sivAya badhAMnI nA AvI. e puruSoe kahyuM ke pote ekalA potAnI meLe koI paNa nAiTaklabamAM cAlyA jaze, mATe gAiDa yuvatIne Teliphona karIne jaNAvavAnI koI jarUra nathI. jamIne ame sau potapotAnI rUmamAM cAlyAM gayAM. AkhA divasanA pravAsano thAka lAgyo hato eTale huM to vahelo UMghI gayo. bIje divase savAre nAstA mATe DAiniMga holamAM ame pahoMcyAM tyAre nAiTaklabanI ja carcA cAlatI hatI. meM bAjumAM beThelA bhAIone pUchyuM, haju paNa e ja carcA cAle che ?' tyAM eka mitre kahyuM, "A to gaI kAle rAtre amane badhAne nAiTaklabano je anubhava thayo tenI vAta ame karIe chIe.' mane banAvatA to nathI ne ?' meM pUchyuM. 'nA; sAcI vAta che. ApaNe badhAM jamIne potapotAnI rUmamAM gayAM. daramiyAna ApaNA phonanI rAha joyA pachI ApaNI jarmana gAiDa yuvatI pote ja hoTelamAM AvI pahoMcI. eka pachI eka badhAMno phonathI saMparka karI lonjamAM bolAvI, samajAvI, eNe ghaNAMbadhAMne ekaThAM karyA. sajoDe AvelAM pati-patnIne paNa teNe Agraha karIne sAdhI lIdhAM.' "ane bhAratIya saMskRtivALAM pelAM leDI DaoNkTara ane zikSikA ?' kutUhalathI meM pUchyuM. "hA, e badhAM paNa amArI sAthe joDAyAM. badhAMmAM mokhare e hatAM. jarmana gAiDe sauthI pahelAM emane ja sAdhyAM. tamAro ane tamArA jevA bIjA traNa jaNano ame jANIjoIne saMparka na karyo, kAraNa ke ethI amArI vAta bagaDe evo bhaya hato. vaLI ame jANatAM hatAM ke tame to koI paNa saMjogomAM amArI sAthe AvavAnA ja nathI.' pelAM DaoNkaTa2 mahilA bacAvapUrvaka koIkane kahetAM hatAM ke "ApaNe to mAtra kutUhalathI jovA gayAM hatAM. ApaNe to chokarAMne ghare chokarAM che. ApaNe kaMI thoDA juvAniyAnI jema kAmavAsanAthI jovA gayAM hatAM ? 134 4 pravAsa-darzana

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ApaNA karatAM umare ghaNAM moTAM evAM yuropiyana ane amerikana DosADosIo paNa keTalAM badhAM AvyAM hatAM ?" cA-nAstA pachI ame badhAM amArA bAkI rahelA nagaradarzananA kAryakrama mATe basamAM UpaDyAM. sAMje pAchAM AvyAM. rUmamAM jaI, kalAka ArAma karI, hAtha-moM dhoI ame DAiniMga rUmamAM jamavA mATe pahoMcyAM. pelI pAMca ekalI mahilAo haju AvI nahotI. dhIme dhIme vAta AvI ke teo jamavAnI nathI. nAiTaklabamAM gaI che. amane badhAMne Azcarya thayuM. bIje divase eraporTa javA mATe ame basamAM beThAM tyAre pAchI e carcA cAlI. bIjI vAra pote nAiTaklabamAM gayAM teno bacAva karatAM hoziyArI ane abhimAnapUrvaka pelAM mahilA zikSikAe kahyuM, "pelI jarmanagAiDa ApaNane badhAMne banAvI gaI. eNe ghaNuM kamizana rAkhyuM hatuM. je nAiTaklabamAM ApaNe pacAsa mArkanI praveza-phI ApIne parama divase gayAM hatAM te ja nAiTaklabamAM gaI kAle amane trIsa mArkamAM besADyAM hatAM. ApaNane bArgeina karatAM AvaDavuM joIe." amArAmAMthI eka puruSe e mahilAne saMbhaLAvavA kahyuM, "tame trIsa mArkamAM jaI AvyAM, paNa ame cAra jaNa e ja nAiTaklabamAM vIsa mArkamAM gayA hatA. vaLI amane eka nahi paNa be Driksa maphata ApavAmAM AvyAM hatAM.' e sAMbhaLI mahilA zikSikAnuM moTuM paDI gayuM. basamAM zAMti prasarI rahI. tyAM to amArI basa seMTa paulI vistAramAMthI pasAra thaI. badhAMe joyelI moTAM posTaravALI e nAiTaklaba dekhAI eTale AMgaLI cIMdhIne keTalAMke kahyuM, 'A rahI ApaNI nAiTaklaba." e joIne pote chetarAyAMno keTalAMkane aphasosa thayo hato. keTalAMka jarmana gAiDane gALo bhAMDatAM hatAM. paisA bhale game teTalA thayA paNa Avo anubhava bhAratamAM kyAM ApaNane maLavAno hato e vicAre keTalAMka ekabIjAMne AzvAsana ApatAM hatAM. saMta polanA nAmanI kevI bhayaMkara viDaMbanA hembargamAM thaI che tenA vicAre huM caDI gayo hato. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) seMTa paulI ja 135

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19 sTonahenja (greTa briTana) iMglenDamAM sTonahenja (Stonehenge)nA pravAse jaI AvelAomAMthI koIka jo ema kahe ke "tyAM kazuM jovA jevuM nathI, patharA che, naryA patharA', to ethI Azcarya pAmavA jevuM nathI. vastuta: sTonahenjamAM je jovA jevuM che te tyAMnA patharA ja che. e sivAya tyAM paryaTananI dRSTie AkarSaka bIjuM kazuM ja nathI. AthI sAmAnya pravAsIne emAM rasa na paDe e svAbhAvika che. jeone mAnavajAtinA sAMskRtika itihAsamAM rasa che, purAtattvamAM ruci che, prAcIna zilpasthApatyanA avazeSo vize jijJAsA che teone sTonahenjamAM acUka rasa paDe evuM che. sTonahenja eTale prAgaitihAsika kALanA sthApatyakaLAnA virala avazeSo. Stonehenge e to vartamAna jagate ApeluM nAma che. prAgaitihAsika kALanI je prajAe A bAMdhakAma karyuM haze eNe enuM zuM nAma rAkhyuM haze tenI ApaNane kazI khabara nathI. Stone eTale pASANa. Henge zabda Hang (laTakatuM)nA arthamAM vaparAyo che. mAnavajAtinA pASANayugamAM A bAMdhakAma thayuM che e dRSTie Stone zabda yathArtha che. A sthaLe khAssI moTI zilAo upara bArasAkha ke toraNanI jema ADI zilAo goThavavAmAM AvI che eTale te laTakatI gaNAya. ApaNe stonehengenuM gujarAtI nAma ApavuM hoya to "pASANatoraNa' athavA "avalaMbita zilAo" ke 136 9 pravAsa-darzana

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evuM kazuMka ApI zakIe. hakIkatamAM to evuM nAma paNa adhUruM ja gaNAya, kAraNa ke samagra racanA to eka maMdiranA AkAra jevI che eTale ene pASANayugIna devAlaya' tarIke vadhAre sArI rIte oLakhAvI zakAya. sTonahenjane iMglenDanI eka ajAyabI tarIke oLakhAvavAmAM Ave che. iMglenDanI to e prAcInatama imArata che ja, paNa itihAsakAro kahe che ke samagra yuropanI dharatI para e mAnavasarjita prAcInatama avazeSa I.sa. 1984mAM ame keTalAka mitro laMDanathI lagabhaga eMsI mAIla dUra, saoNlsabarI -(Salisbury)nA vizALa medAnI pradezamAM evana (Avon) nadInI pAse AvelA sTonahenjanAM darzana karavA nIkaLyA hatA. amArI gADI pahoMcavA AvI tyAM to ghaNe dUrathI sTonahenjanI AkRti spaSTa dekhAvA lAgI. unALAnA divaso hatA, AkAza svaccha hatuM ane najIkamAM bIjAM koI UMcAM makAno nahotAM eTale ekalIaTUlI e imAratanuM dRzya tarata oLakhAI jAya ane gamI jAya evuM hatuM. sTonahanjanI AkRti atyaMta vilakSaNa che. sthApatyakalAnA keTalAka uttama namUnAonI nakala anyatra thAya che, paNa sTonahenjanI nakala duniyAmAM anyatra kyAMya enA kALamAM ke pachI thaI hoya to paNa enA avazeSo nathI. eTale sTonahenjanI AkRti ajoDa che. viziSTa lAkSaNika mudrAvALI A AkRti eka vakhata barAbara dhyAnathI joI hoya to te kyAreya bhulAya evI nathI. sTonahenja pahoMcI, gADImAMthI UtarI ame cAlavA lAgyA. mukhya mArga para thoDI nAnI nAnI dukAno hatI. ahIM bIjuM vecAya paNa zuM ? pizcara-posTakArDa, slAiDa, kemerAnA rola, yAdagIrInI cIjavastuo vagere maLe. ame eka dukAnamAM dAkhala thayA. dukAnadAra vIseka varSanI atizaya sthULakAyanI yuvatI hatI. beThI beThI te kazuMka khAtI hatI. UThavAnI te ALasu jaNAI. gharAkanA svAgata jevuM nAma nahi. Ama paNa je joIe te cIjavastunA bhAva lakhelA hoya ane bhAvatAla (Bargain) jevuM hoya nahi. dukAnadAra sAmethI gharAkane pUche evI prathA paNa nahi. topaNa amArAmAMthI eke kaMIka pUchaparacha karI to javAba uddhatAIbharyo maLyo. amArA bhAratIya ghauvarNA caherAne kAraNe hoya ke sahaja rIte hoya, enA kaDaka udgAro manamAM pratikriyA jagAve evA hatA. enI cAmaDIno raMga goro hato paNa eno karaDAkIbharyo kadarUpo cahero, eNe dhAraNa karelAM vastrono lAla bhaDaka raMga, eno rukSa svara ane enA zabdonI tochaDAI sTonahenja * 137

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- A badhAMe thoDIka kSaNonI mulAkAtamAM paNa amArAM cittamAM apriya UMDI chApa pADI dIdhI. tarata ame tyAMthI nIkaLI gayA. cAlatAM cAlatAM sTonahejanA pravezadvAramAM dAkhala thayA. eka sajjana pharaja para tyAM UbhA hatA. bhUrA raMgano gaNaveza emaNe paheryo hato. A prAcIna bhagnAvazeSanA "rakhevALa' tarIke teo emAM kAma karatA haze ema lAgyuM. emaNe amAruM sasmita svAgata karyuM. mAthe TAla ane karacalIovALI mukhamudrA parathI teo pAMsaThasitteranAM haze ema jaNAyuM. AvA sthaLanI nokarI kasoTI karanArI hoya che. pravAsIo hoya tyAre kAma, pachI navarA ne navarA. emanI sAthenI vAtacIta parathI jANyuM ke teo pAsenA koIka gAmamAM rahe che. nokarI mATe savArasAMja basamAM Ava-jA kare che. thoDe dUra AvelA avazeSo pAse ame pahoMcI gayA. ahIM zilAonuM bAMdhakAma vartuLAkAre thayeluM che. mULa bAMdhakAmamAMthI hAla aDadhI ochI zilAo rahI che. tema chatAM A imAratano nakazo kevo haze te samajI zakAya che. saMzodhakoe abhyAsa karIne AkhI AkRti kevI haze tenuM kAlpanika citra taiyAra kareluM che. Azare so phUTanA vyAsa jeTalA moTA vartuLamAM zilAo che. jamInamAM khADo khodI khaMbhanI jema UbhI karelI badhI zilAo dIvAlanI jema aDoaDa nathI, paraMtu be aDoaDa zilA pachI eTalI ja jagyA khAlI choDI devAmAM AvI che. zilAtaMbho upara ADI laMbacorasa zilAo vartuLAkAre aDoaDa saLaMga goThavelI haze. be zilAtaMbha vacce dvAra jevI thayelI racanA nihALI zakAya che eTale ke keTalIka ADI zilAo bArasAkha tarIke vaparAyelI che. samagra vartuLamAM evAM trIsa jeTalAM dvAra haze ema manAya che. A mukhya vartuLAkAranI aMdara bIjI moTI zilAo ghoDAnI nALanA AkAre goThavelI che. vartuLa ane nALa baMnenAM mukhya pravezadvAra eka ja dizAmAM che. A AkhI racanA koI maMdira jevI lAge che. aMdaranI nALa jevI racanA te garbhadvAra ane enI bahAranuM vartana te raMgamaMDapa haze evo bhAsa thAya che. A bAMdhakAmamAM UbhI laMbacorasa zilAo dasathI bAra phUTa UMcI che. keTalIka zilAo nIcethI saheja pahoLI ane upara jatAM sAMkaDI thAya che. pAMca-sAta TanathI mAMDIne vIsa-bAvIsa Tana sudhInA vajanavALI zilAo ahIM vaparAI che. zilAo kaMIka aNaghaDa lAge che. sarakhI ghasIne ene 138 pravAsa-darzana

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sapATa karavAmAM AvI hoya athavA enA upara kaMIka zilpakAma, kotarakAma thayuM hoya ema jaNAtuM nathI. kALano ghasAro ene jarUra lAgyo haze, to paNa zilpAdinA koI aNasAra temAM jovA maLatA nathI. purAtattvavido Adhunika vaijJAnika paddhatithI A paththaronI prAcInatA vize saMzodhana karIne jaNAve che ke sTonahenjanuM A bAMdhakAma saheje pAMcathI cha hajAra varSa jeTaluM prAcIna che. kadAca emAM thoDA saikA vadhAre ke ochA hoI zake. A bAMdhakAmamAM judA judA tabakke jIrNoddhAra ke vRddhi paNa kadAca thayAM hoya. yuropamAM grIsa ane romanI saMskRti traNa hajAra varSa jeTalI prAcIna manAya che, paNa sTonahenjanI saMskRti to ethI paNa ghaNI badhI prAcIna haze e nizcita che. kadAca vedakAlIna bhAratIya saMskRtinI samakAlIna A saMskRti haze. pASANayuganI sTonahenjanI saMskRti vize AdhArabhUta mAhitI ApaNane khAsa maLatI nathI, paNa saMzodhakoe saMzodhana karI potAnAM tAraNo je ApyAM che te parathI manAya che ke te kALanI prajA pAse potAnI paraMparAnuM viziSTa jJAna haze, potAnI ijanerI vidyA haze ane teo sArI zArIrika zakti dharAvatA haze, ahIM vaparAyelA retALa paththaro ane bhUrA-bhUkharA paththaro teo AsapAsathI lAvyA haze. keTalAka paththaro doDhaso-baso mAIla dUranA DuMgarAomAMthI ghasaDI lAvyA haze. keTalAka paththaro doDhaso-baso mAIla dUranA DuMgarAomAMthI ghasaDI lAvyA haze, je mATe temanI pAse ghaNI sArI zArIrika tAkAta haze. e lAvavAmAM teone keTalo zrama paDyo haze, keTalA divasa lAgyA haze, keTalA mANaso kAme lagADyA haze eno koI AdhArabhUta aMdAja maLato nathI. eTaluM nakkI che ke UbhI zilAo upara ATalI bhAre zilAo caDAvavA mATe temanI pAse koI paddhati haze. e prajA rakhaDu haze. ene khetI nahi AvaDatI hoya. vanaspati ane zikAra para te nabhatI haze ane jyAM pANI maLe tenI AsapAsa te sthira thatI rahetI haze. A vistAramAM te ThIka ThIka samaya sthira rahI haze. sTonahenjanI AsapAsanA keTalAka mAIlanA ' vistAramAM khodakAma karatAM prAgaitihAsika kALanI vartuLanA AkAranI ane laMbacorasa AkAranI kabaro (Barrows) moTI saMkhyAmAM maLI AvI che. A kabrastAna parathI anumAna thAya che ke A vistAramAM ghaNA mANasono vasavATa e kALe thayo haze. iMglenDanI dharatI parano vikasita vasavATa to isavI sananA AraMbha pachIno che. to pachI enI pahelAM traNathI cAra hajAra varSa pUrve A maMdira sTonahenja 9 139

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tyAM kevI rIte thayuM haze ? sTonahenjanI saMskRti pachI tyAM aMdhakArano yuga pravaryo haze ? e prajA tyAMnI mULa prajA haze ke sthaLAMtara karatI karatI tyAM pahoMcI haze ? e prajAnuM nAma zuM ? enI bhASA kaI ? eno dharma kayo ? bhAratIya saMskRti sAthe eno koI saMbaMdha haze ? zuM e khagoLavidyAnI jANakAra haze ? zuM e sUryaprakAzanA AdhAre paDachAyAnI gaNatarI karIne koI AgAhI karatI haze ? zuM enI pAse bhaumitika AkRtionI upAsanAnI paddhati haze ? zuM enI pAse gupta rahasyamaya taMtrasAdhanA haze ? - AvA AvA ghaNA prazno pASANayuganI, e prajA vize thAya che. sTonahenjanI racanA eNe dharmopAsanA mATe karI haze ema jaNAya che. emAM koI chata nathI. sAva khullI racanA che. zuM pahelethI ja e pramANa haze ke samaya jatAM chatanA paththaro tUTI paDyA haze ? zuM hAla jevuM havAmAna che evuM ja tyAre tyAM haze ke vadhAre sAruM ane anukULa haze ? - AvA ghaNA prazno anuttarita ja rahe che. A vistAramAM khodakAma karatAM prAgaitihAsika kALanAM hADakAM, paththaro, kolaso vagere prakAranA avazeSo maLI AvyA che. e vize ThIka ThIka abhyAsa thayo che. ahIMthI be mAIla dUranI jagyAethI maLelA avazeSo parathI anumAna thAya che ke A pASANamaMdiranI jema kASThamaMdira (Woodhenge) tyAM haze ke jeno upayoga dharmasabhA tarIke thato haze. kabrastAna jevI eka jagyAmAMthI eka nAnI khoparI maLI AvI che, e nAnA bALakanI hovI joIe, paraMtu e khoparI bhAMgelI maLI che. saMzodhako prazna kare che ke zuM e prajA devadevInI ArAdhanAmAM bALakano bali caDAvatI haze ? sTonahejano vistAra vizALa sapATa medAnono che. e vistAramAM briTiza sarakAre koI UMcA moTAM makAnonuM bAMdhakAma karavA dIdhuM nathI ke jethI sTonaheja DhaMkAI jAya ke eno prAkRtika pariveza ke enI naisargika zobhA maryAdita thaI jAya. lIlA ghAsa ane khullA AkAzane lIdhe sTonahenjanI AkRti savArasAMjanA sUryaprakAzamAM ke vAdaLAMonA vAtAvaraNamAM vividha zobhA dhAraNa karatI ghaNe dUrathI dekhAya che. sTonahenjamAM jovAnuM ochuM ane samaya pUrato hato eTale amAre utAvaLa karavAnI to hatI ja nahi. enI zilAonuM saMtoSapUrvaka avalokana karI ame pAchA pharyA. samaya thaI gayo hato eTale potAnI pharaja pUrI thatAM rakhevALe paNa cAlavA mAMDyuM. pravezadvAramAMthI bahAra nIkaLI eka dukAna pAse ame UbhA rahyA. keTalAke pizcara-posTakArDa, slAiDa vagerenI kharIdI 140 pravAsa-darzana

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karI. sAMja thaI gaI hatI. paNa unALAnA divaso hatA eTale haju sUryAsta thayo nahoto. dhIme Dagale ame amArI gADI tarapha AgaLa vadhatA hatA. tyAM amArAmAMthI eke kahyuM, 'lAlabhUrA raMganuM tyAM kevuM sarasa milana jAmyuM che !' bolanAra zuM kahevA mAge che e tarata na samajAyuM, paNa pachI jotAMveMta e spaSTa thaI gayuM ke lAlabhUrA raMganuM milana eTale pelI dukAnadAra yuvatI ane rakhevALanuM milana. basanI rAha jovAnA samayano sadupayoga sAro zodhI kADhayo che !' eke kaTAkSamAM kahyuM bIjAe potAno pratibhAva darzAvatAM kahyuM, "potAnI dIkarInI dIkarI jevaDI che, paNa ahIMnA lokone jAheramAM AvI rIte besatAM saMkoca na thAya." amArI gADI laMDana tarapha cAlI. meM kahyuM, "pASANayuga hoya ke arvAcIna yuga, AdimAnava hoya ke adyatana, manuSyanI prAkRtika saMvedanAo badhe ja ekarArakhI hoya che.' sTonaheja e iMglenDane gaurava apAve evuM prAgaitihAsika kALanI prajAnuM bhavya smAraka che. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) sTonahenja = 141

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20 kievano gAiDa vikaTara (yukreIna) pUrva yuropamAM kALA samudranA kinAre AvelA yukreina rAjyanuM pATanagara kieva (Kiev) duniyAnAM keTalAMka ramaNIya nagaromAMnuM eka che. I.sa. 1980mAM soviyeTa yuniyananA pravAsa daramiyAna ame kieva paNa javAnA hatA. maoNskono kAryakrama pUro thatAM rAtre TrenamAM besI bIje divase savAre ame kieva pahoMcI gayA. maoNskothI amArI sAthe AvelA be gAiDanI pharaja have pUrI thaI. mATe bIjA be gAiDa eka yuvaka ane eka yuvatI amane levA AvI pahoMcyAM hatAM. maoNskonA gAiDe navA baMne gAiDano amane paraciya karAvyo ane potAnI pharaja pUrI thatI hovAthI amArI vidAya lIdhI. amArA pravAsanuM Ayojana soviyeTa yuniyananI mukhya TUrisTa ejansI inaTUrisTa dvArA thayuM hatuM. maoNskonA baMne gAiDanI jema ahIM paNa yuvake gherA lAla raMganuM zarTa ane nIce AchA badAmI raMganuM penTa paheryuM hatuM. yuvatInuM paNa e pramANe uparanuM vastra lAla raMganuM ane nIcenuM skarTa AchA badAmI raMganuM hatuM. lAla raMga evo che ke ghaNe dUrathI paNa joI zakAya. svecchAe bahu ochA loko AvA dherA lAla DakaraMganuM vastra pahe2vAnuM pasaMda kare. paraMtu soviyeTa yuniyanamAM pharaja upara rahelA karmacArIe to potAnI kaMpanI kahe te pramANe vastraparidhAna karavAnuM rahetuM. sTezanamAMthI ame gAiDanI pAchaLa pAchaLa bahAra nIkaLyA. ahIM 142 * pravAsa-darzana

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majUranI prathA nahotI eTale dareke potAno sAmAna hAthe ja UMcakavAno hato. ame basamAM goThavAyA. baMne gAiDe amane AvakAra Apyo ane potAno paricaya Apyo. amArA gAiDanuM nAma hatuM vikTara. gAiDa yuvatInuM nAma hatuM IDA. baMne hasamukhAM hatAM. paraMtu temanA bolavAmAM soviyeTa yuniyananI kaDaka dhAkano aNasAra samajadArane AvyA vagara rahe nahi. teo ochuM bole, samajAvavAnuM badhuM ja samajAve, paNa evA hoziyAra che tamArA praznano javAba yuktipUrvaka TALI de. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM te vakhate prajA ekaMdare eTalI dabAyelI hatI ke jvalle ja koI be-cAra mANaso aMdaraaMdara vAdavivAda kare. ajANyAnI sAthe to teo bole paNa nahi eTaluM ja nahi, smita paNa na pharakAve. sTelinanA vakhatanI e dhAka hajI paNa cAlu rahelI varatAtI hatI. dareka jagyAe pharaja upara ochAmAM ochI be vyaktio hoya ja ane e baMne vyakti ekabIjI upara dekharekha rAkhe; kyAreka jAsUsI paNa kare. rAjya viruddha koI bolatuM hoya to tarata bIjI vyakti cADI khAya ke jethI gunAmAMthI pote bacI jAya. sTeline rAjya viruddha abhiprAya uccAranArA keTalAya lokone marAvI nAkhyA hatA; anekane jela bhegA karI dIdhA hatA ke sAibiriyAnI kaDakaDatI ThaMDImAM konsanTezana kempanI aMdara dhakelI dIdhA hatA ke jyAM sakhata majUrI karIne ane ThaMDImAM TUMThavAIne teo thoDA vakhatamAM motane zaraNa thatA. 1980mAM presiDenTa brejhanevanA vakhatamAM sTelinanAM pUtaLAM nIkaLI gayAM hatAM, paNa vAtAvaraNa haju evuM ja bhayabhIta ane taMga hatuM. amArA pravAsa daramiyAna ame joyuM hatuM ke sTelina vize, lekhaka sonjhanitsina vize ke evA bIjA koI saMvedanazIla viSaya vize koI eka zabda paNa uccAravA taiyAra na hatuM. koI e vize gAiDane prazna kare to gAiDa tarata ja kahI de ke "maherabAnI karIne mane e vize prazna pUchazo nahi." amArI basa cAlI. kievano paricaya ApatAM vikaTare kahyuM, "kieva soviyeTa yuniyananuM jUnAmAM jUnuM zahera che. paMdaraso varSa pahelAM enI sthApanA thayelI. agiyAramA saikAmAM 'kievana rUsa' nAmanuM A moTuM zaktizALI rAjya hatuM. emAM yukreina, raziyana ane bAyaloraziyana evI traNa mukhya prajAo hatI ane te paraspara sumeLathI rahetI. jyAre paNa bahArathI kievana rUsa upara koI caDAI thatI tyAre traNe prajA saMgaThita thaIne barAbara sAmano karatI. paraMtu soLamA saikAmAM bahAranAM AkramaNo kievano gAiDa vikTara ja 143

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sAme kievana rUsa TakI zakyuM nahi. te vakhate yukreina ane raziyA evA be TukaDA thayA. sattaramA saikAmAM pharI yukreina ane raziyA eka thaI gayAM. 1917nA oNkTobaramAM raziyAmAM jyAre krAMti thaI tyAre yukreinane svataMtra rAjya tarIke mAnyatA maLI. khaLakhaLa vahetI nIpara nadInA kinAre AveluM kieva zahera raLiyAmaNuM lAgyuM. vRkSo ane makAno baMne sohAmaNAM hatAM. vikTare kahyuM, krieva yukreinanI prAcIna nagarI che, paNa tame mane kahezo ke A badhAM makAno keTalAM jUnAM haze ?' amArAmAMthI koIka kahyuM, "doDhaso-baso varSa jUnAM to haze ja.' vikTare kahyuM, "nA, A makAno lagabhaga pAMtrIsa varSathI vadhAre jUnAM nathI." "sAce ja ?' hA. bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate jarmanIe kALA samudrane raste yukreina upara AkramaNa karyuM. 1941thI 1945 sudhI bhayaMkara laDAI thaI. lAkho mANaso mAryA gayA. AkhuM kieva baoNmbamArAmAM jamInadosta thaI gayuM. jarmanIe yukreina upara kabajo meLavavA ghaNo bhoga Apyo. paraMtu amArI prajA khamIravALI. amArA sainikoe bhAre pratikAra karyo. chevaTe ame jItyA. vijaya pachI amArA loko eTalA kAmamAM lAgI gayA ke doDha-be varSamAM to jANe AkhuM nagara navesarathI baMdhAI gayuM. eTale to soviyeTa yuniyane kievaMne bahAdura nagarI'no ilkAba Apyo hato. thoDAMka varSamAM to yukreIna khetIvADI ane vepAraudyoga, vijJAna ane TeknolojI, saMgIta ane nATyakalA vagere ghaNI bAbatomAM soviyeTa yuniyananuM atyaMta pragatizIla rAjya banI gayuM. have gAiDa yuvatI iDAe mAika hAthamAM lIdhuM. eNe kahyuM, "tame hamaNAM joI te nIpara nadI yukreinanI sauthI moTI nadI che. baMne kAMThe nAnImoTI TekarIo vaccethI te vahe che. nIpasane lIdhe yukreinanI bhUmi phaLadrupa che. AbohavA gamI jAya evI mAphaka che. krievamAM cesTanaTa, mepala ane poplaranAM ghaTAdAra vRkSo naisargika sauMdaryamAM vRddhi kare che. amArA lokono vRkSaprema eTalo badho che ke yukreinanA sarakArI pratIka tarIke cesTananuM vRkSa che.' amArI basa hoTela para AvI pahoMcI. hoTelanuM nAma paNa "nIpara' hatuM. hoTelamAM dAkhala thayA pachI amArA badhAnA pAsaporTa laI levAmAM 144 9 pravAsa-darzana

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AvyA ane visA kArDa ApavAmAM AvyAM. darekane rUmanI cAvI ApavAmAM AvI ane snAna vagerethI paravAravA mATe kalAkano samaya ApavAmAM Avyo. cA-nAsto karyA pachI amane zahe2mAM pha2vA laI gayA. basamAM AgaLanI sITamAM besavA maLyuM eTale vikaTara sAthe vAtacIta ka2vAnI mane taka maLI. vikaTa2 yuvAna ane hasamukho hato. teNe yunivarsiTImAM anusnAtaka kakSAno abhyAsa karyo hato. raziyana sAhitya eno mukhya viSaya hato. aMgrejI bhASA upara tenuM prabhutva sAruM hatuM. huM muMbaI yunivarsiTImAM sAhityanA viSayano adhyApaka chuM e jANIne vikaTarane paNa mArI sAthe vAta karavAnuM gamyuM. eka vizALa rastA AgaLathI basa pasAra thaI tyAre eNe mane kahyuM, 'DaoN. zAha, tamane jANIne AnaMda thaze ke A sTrITanuM nAma taoNlsTaoNya sTrITa che.' taoNlsTaoNyanuM nAma sAMbhaLI mane emanA vatana yAsnAyA poliyAnAnI mulAkAtanuM smaraNa tAjuM thayuM. amane prathama seMTa sophiyAnuM carca jovA laI gayA. soviyeTa yuniyananuM te jUnAmAM jUnuM carca che. tyAra pachI amane zaheranA madhya bhAgamAM vlADimiraskAyA gorakA' nAmanI TekarI para laI javAmAM AvyA. tyAMthI cArebAju patharAyelAM kieva zaheranAM ane khaLakhaLa vahetI nIpara nadInAM darzana thayAM. kievamAM eTalAM badhAM vRkSo che ke makAno jANe vRkSonI aMdara saMtAkUkaDI ramatAM hoya ema lAge. pAchA pharatAM amane kezcArika nAmanA mukhya mArga upara laTAra mAravA mATe thoDoka samaya ApavAmAM Avyo. ApaNe jANe bajAramAM nahi paNa bagIcAmAM pharatAM hoie evuM lAge. gAiDe kahyuM ke 'kieva zaheramAM be hajAra karatAM vadhu nAnImoTI galIo ane rastAo che. emAM eka paNa sthaLa evuM nathI ke jyAM hArabaMdha vRkSo na hoya. kievamAM vIsa lAkhanI vastI vacce so karatAM vadhu udyAno che. kieva zaheranI aDadhA karatAM vadhu jamInano bhAga to bagIcA ane moTAM udyAnomAM rokAyelo che. eTale to kieva 'ughAna-nagarI' Garden City tarIke prakhyAta che. nagaradarzana karI sAMje ame hoTela para pAchA pharyA. baMne gAiDe vidAya lIdhI. haju samaya hato. eTale ame hoTela pAsenA vistAramAM laTAra mAravA nIkaLyA. sAMjanA komaLa taDakAmAM vAtAvaraNa sarasa lAgatuM hatuM. lokonI avarajavara ghaNI hatI, paNa bhASAnI muzkelInA kAraNe koInI kievano gAiDa vikTara * 145 1

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sAthe vAtacIta karavAnI zakyatA nahotI. eka sthaLe mANasonI lAIna lAgatI hatI. joyuM to sapharajanano tAjo rasa pIvA mATenI lAina hatI. oNTomeTika mazInamAM traNa kopeka nAkhIne ame paNa e rasa pIdho. ATalo sasto rasa soviyeTa yuniyana sivAya bIje kyAM maLavAno hato ? bIje divase amAro kAryakrama thoDe dUra AveluM keTakomba (Catacomb) jovA javAno hato. keTakomba eTale rAja kuTuMbanuM kabrastAna ke jyAM zabane "mamI' karIne rAkhavAmAM Ave. pAMsaTha phUTa UMDA kUvA jevI racanA karIne emAM mamI rAkhavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. keTalAMka varSo pahelAM khodakAma karatAM A daTAI gayeluM kaTAkomba maLI AvyuM hatuM. keTAkombanI mulAkAta amAre mATe eka yAdagAra anubhava jevI banI gaI. kieva zaheranI prAcInatAnI e sAbitI hatI. kievanI A be divasanI mulAkAtamAM vikaTarane bIjA pravAsIo karatAM mArI sAthe vadhu nikaTatAthI vAta karavAnuM phAvyuM hatuM. eno amane baMnene AnaMda hato. AvA pravAsamAM gAiDane pratIkarUpa ApelI nAnI sarakhI bheTa paNa ghaNuM badhuM kAma kare che. vaLI amAro rasano viSaya paNa samAna hato. kievano be divasano pravAsa pUro thayo. have mosko mATe Trena pakaDavAnI hatI. Trena rAtanA doDha vAge hatI, paraMtu hoTela upara jamyA pachI bIjuM kazuM kAma na hatuM ane hoTelano cArja na caDe eTale amane kievanA sTezane rAtanA nava vAge laI AvavAmAM AvyA. eka vizALa veiTiMga rUmamAM amane badhAne besADavAmAM AvyA. have badhA pravAsIone mAtra TrenamAM besADavAnuM ja kAma gAiDo mATe bAkI rahyuM hatuM. eTale amArA be gAiDamAMthI IDAnI pharaja pUrI thatI hatI eTale te sTezana para badhAMnI vidAya laI cAlI gaI. have amArI dekharekha rAkhavA mATe phakta vikTara ja hato. vikTare kahyuM, "tame badhA ahIM ArAma karo. koIne paga lAMbA karavA hoya to ArAmakhurazI paNa che. thoDIka UMgha kheMcI zako cho. Trenano TAima thaze eTale huM tamane badhAne uThADIza. e mATe tame nizcita rahejo. amArA mATenA alAyadA khaMDamAM huM thoDI vAra ArAma karI lauM chuM." ema kahI vikTara cAlyo gayo. aDadhA kalAka pachI mArI pAse AvIne eNe pharI pAcho "dhImA sAde prazna karyo, "DaoN. zAha, tame badhA mosko sTezane pahoMcI tyAMthI sIdhA erapaoNrTa javAnA cho, kharuM ne ?' meM kahyuM, "hA, agAu tamane kahyuM hatuM te pramANe ja amAro kAryakrama che. emAM 146 4 pravAsa-darzana

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koI pheraphAra nathI." pachI meM vikTarane pUchyuM, "tame A prazna mane pahelAM be vakhata pUchyo che to tenuM khAsa kaMI kAraNa che ?' vikTare kahyuM, "e huM tamane atyAre nahi kahuM.' ema kahI vikTara bAjunA khaMDamAM cAlyo gayo. | vikTaranA gayA pachI huM vicAre caDyo. vikTarane kazuMka kahevuM che paNa e tarata kahevA icchato nathI tema dekhAya che. amArAmAMnA ghaNAkharA jhokAM khAtAM hatAM. aDadhA kalAka pachI vikaTare veiTiMga rUmamAM pharI rAunDa mAryuM. eNe joyuM ke badhA UMghI gayA che. phakta huM ekalo jAgato beTho chuM. eTale te mArI pAse Avyo ane bolyo, "DaoN. zAha, tamane UMgha nathI AvatI ?' meM kahyuM, "nA, mane AvI rIte jAgavAnI Teva che, paNa mane eka prazna thAya che ke tame amane, khAsa karIne mane ema kema pUchyA karyuM che ke soviyeTa yuniyanamAM A tamAro chello divasa che ?" vikTare cAre bAju najara pheravI. veiTiMga rUmamAM koI raziyana ke yukreniyana pravAsI nathI ane pharaja upara bIjuM koI dekhAtuM nathI e joI eNe mArA kAnamAM kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, tamArI sAthe ATalI AtmIyatA thaI gaI che eTale ja huM tamane kahuM chuM. AvuM pUchavAnuM kAraNa e che ke mAre tamArI sAthe thoDI khAnagI vAta karavI che. atyAra sudhI IDA pharaja upara sAthe hatI eTale huM kazuM bolyo nathI, paNa have e gaI che eTale mArI aMgata vAta tamane karI zakIza." meM kahyuM, "bhale, tame mArAmAM jarUra vizvAsa rAkhajo. tamArA dezanI sthiti huM jANuM chuM. eTale tamArI aMgata vAta tame jarU2 mane kahI zako cho.' vikTare kahyuM, "paNa e aMgata vAta huM tamane atyAre nahi kahuM. haju Trena AvavAne be kalAkanI vAra che. ahIM to havA paNa vAtane laI jAya che. mATe jokhama nathI kheDavuM. mAre tamane khAnagI vAta kahevI che eTaluM kahevAmAM paNa mAre mATe ahIM jokhama gaNAya." ATaluM kahIne vikTara pAcho potAnA khaMDamAM cAlyo gayo. huM pharI vicAre caDI gayo. vikTarane evI te zI vAta karavI che ke je karatAM te ATalo gabharAya che. vaLI mane potAne paNa ciMtA thavA lAgI ke rakhene vikTara evI koI vAta na karI bese ke jenA pariNAme huM paNa enI sAthe phasAke. alabatta, soviyeTa sarakAra potAnA nAgariko sAthe jeTalI kaDaka che teTalI paradezIo sAthe nathI. to paNa mArA mananI aMdara kutarka cAlavA lAgyA. vikTarane jAsUsInI dRSTie koI vAta karavAnI haze ? ke pachI vikTara mArI pAsethI kaMI vAta kaDhAvavA koI nATaka to kievano gAiDa vikTara * 147

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nahi karato hoya ne ? e je hoya te, mAre to vikTara je kahe te phakta sAMbhaLI ja levuM ema meM manathI nakkI karyuM. rAtanA doDha vAgavAmAM daseka miniTanI vAra hatI. Trena AvavAnI jAherAta thaI. vikTara amArI pAse AvI pahoMcyo. sAmAna sAthe badhA pleTaphorma para pahoMcI gayAM. mane thayuM ke vikTara have potAnI aMgata khAnagI vAta karaze. huM tenI utsukatApUrvaka rAha joto rahyo. Trena pleTaphorma para AvI, paNa vikTare kazI vAta mane karI nahi. te to darekane potapotAnI kaeNbinamAM besADavAnI vyavasthAmAM paDI gayo. Trena daseka miniTa UbhI rahevAnI hatI. badhAM potapotAnI kebinamAM goThavAI gayAM. vikTara potAnI pharaja bajAvavAmAM magna banI gayo. jANe ke pelI vAta ja bhUlI gayo na hoya ! mane paNa mArI kebinamAM beThA pachI cAlyuM ke mAre paNa sAmethI vikTarane pUchavAnI zI jarUra ? jo tene kahevAnI icchA haze to kaheze. paraMtu badhA goThavAI gayA pachI darekanI vidAya laI vikTara chelle mArI kaeNbinamAM Avyo. eNe kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, basa tamArI vidAya levA Avyo chuM. ApaNe pharI kyAre maLIzuM e to khabara nathI. kadAca jiMdagImAM pharI na paNa maLIe." pachI vikTara mane kebinamAMthI bahAra bolAvI gayo. TaoNileTa pAsenI jagyAmAM eka khUNAmAM UbhA rahIne dhIme sAde phahyuM, "mAre tamane je aMgata vAta karavAnI che te ATalI che. be divasa tame mane khUba hasato-hasAvato joyo che. eTale tame ema bolelA ke huM keTalo sukhI chuM. paraMtu mAre khAnagImAM tamane eTaluM ja kahevuM che ke huM sukhI nathI. huM bahu dukhI chuM. mAre ghara che, patnI che, bALako che, paNa amane ahIM vANIsvAtaMtrya nathI ane vikAsanI koI taka nathI. tame TheTha bhAratathI soviyeTa yuniyanamAM amArA nagara sudhI AvI zako cho, paraMtu tame mAnazo, mArI trIsa varSanI umara thavA AvI chatAM mosko javAnI taka haju mane maLI nathI. meM inaTUrisTamAM gAiDa tarIkenI nokarI svecchAe svIkArI lIdhI che ke jethI soviyeTa yuniyanamAM bIjA koI pradezamAM mane DyUTI maLe to eTaluM to jovAnI taka maLe, paraMtu haju sudhI kieva choDIne bIje kyAMya mane pharaja para mUkavAmAM Avyo nathI. basa, tamane joIne huM bahu ja rAjI thayo chuM, paNa huM ahIM bahu dukhI chuM evI meM tamane kahelI vAta khAnagI rAkhajo. bIjA koI adhikArIne karazo nahi. tame mosko pahoMcIne tarata soviyeTa yuniyana choDavAnA cho ane mane tamArAmAM vizvAsa che eTale ja meM hiMmata karIne ATalI mArI vAta karI che. nahi 148 4 pravAsa-darzana

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to huM eTalI vAta paNa koIne na kahuM.' ATaluM kahetAM kahetAM to vikTaranI AMkho bhInI thaI gaI. huM paNa bhAvArdra banI gayo. Trena UpaDavAnI sITI vAgI eTale mArI sAthe hAtha milAvI vikTara nIce Utaryo. huM daravAjA pAse Ubho rahyo. Trena cAlI. ame baMne ekabIjA sAme jotA chevaTa sudhI hAtha halAvatA rahyA. huM mArI kaeNbinamAM jaIne sUto. paraMtu AkhI rAta mane UMgha na AvI. vikTaranA ja vicAra AvatA rahyA. eka atizaya sakhata rAjazAsananI paddhatine kAraNe eka tejasvI yuvAnanI kArakirdI keTalI badhI rUMdhAI jAya che te najare jovA maLyuM. ATalAM varSo thayAM chatAM vikTarane pharI maLavAnuM thayuM nathI. A jiMdagImAM vikTara pharI maLaze evI koI zakyatA paNa nathI. paraMtu pote du:khI che phakta eTaluM ja kahevA mATe paNa eka navayuvAnane keTalI badhI hiMmata ekaThI karavI paDI e ghaTanAnuM vismaraNa kyAreya thaze nahi. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) kievano gAiDa vikTara * 149

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21 yAsnAyA poliyAnA (raziyA) soviyeTa yuniyanamAM maoNsko ke leninagrADa sivAyanAM zaheromAM ane khAsa karIne gAmaDAomAM pravAsa karavo e khuda tyAMnA vatanIo mATe jo agharuM che, to videzIo mATe agharuM kema na hoya ? koI ekaladokala videzI pravAsIne samagra soviyeTa yuniyanamAM svecchAe pharavAnuM atizaya mukela che. enuM kAraNa tyAMnA kAyadAo, kaDaka baMdobasta, zaMkAzIla sarakArI mAnasa ane vAhanonI suvidhAnI alpatA che. duniyAnA lagabhaga tamAma dezomAM teno vIsA maLyA pachI koI paNa rokaToka vinA videzI pravAsI svecchAe game tyAre game tyAM AkhA dezamAM pharI zake che. paraMtu soviyeTa yuniyanamAM ema nathI. tyAM dareka zaherano judo vIsA meLavavo paDe che. jeTalAM sthaLono visA hoya teTalAM sthaLe ja pravAsI jaI zake che. vIsA tamAre zA mATe joIe che tenAM pUratAM kAraNo darzAvIne tame arajI karo te pachI sattAvALAone jo te saMtoSakAraka lAge to ja tamane vIsA maLe. oNlimpika ramatagamato jovA AvelA videzI pravAsIo mATe soviyeTa sarakAre jovA jevAM keTalAMka aitihAsika sthaLonA pravAsanI yojanA jAhera karelI. moskomAM pahoMcIne meM ane mArA bhAI pramodabhAIe ramatagamatanuM jovAnuM jatuM karIne paNa sujhadala-glADimira ane taoNlsatoyanA vatana yAsnAyA poliyAnA mATe soviyeTa yuniyananI eka mAtra adhikRta TUrisTa kaMpanI "indrarisTa'nI kacerImAM nAma noMdhAvI dIdhAM ane tenA kharcanA 150 % pravAsa-darzana

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raziyana rUbala bharI dIdhA. paraMtu moskomAM AvelA ramatagamatanA zokhIna videzIone pravAsanAM itara sthaLomAM rasa kyAMthI paDe ? pravAsa mATe tapAsa karanArAomAM ame ja prathama hatA evuM e vibhAganA adhikArInI vAta parathI jaNAyuM. ame sujhadala ane plADimira javAnA divase savAre sAta vAge taiyAra thaIne, mosko yunivarsiTInA makAnamAM amane ApelA utAre laoNnjamAM jaIne beThA. paraMtu nava vAge amane kahevAmAM AvyuM ke pravAsIonI pUratI saMkhyA thaI nathI mATe basa UpaDaze nahi. nirAza thaI ame agAunA kAryakrama pramANe ramatagamato jovAmAM divasa vitAvyo. bIje divase savAre amAre taoNlsatoyanI janmabhUmi yAsnAyA poliyAnA javAnuM hatuM. pharIthI pravAsIonI saMkhyAnuM bahAnuM kADhI TUra rada karavAmAM na Ave to sAruM ema amArAM manamAM hatuM. TUra mATe ochAmAM ochA cAra pravAsIo joIe ema amane kahevAmAM AvyuM hatuM. ame phakta be jaNe ja nAma noMdhAvyAM hatAM. eTale ame tarata bIjA be bhAratIya pravAsIone yAsnAyA poliyAnA AvavA samajAvyA. teo saMmata thayA ane temaNe paNa rUbala bharI dIdhA. savAre sAta vAge vahelAM vahelAM cA-pANI laIne taiyAra thaIne ame laoNnjamAM besI gayA, paraMtu tapAsa karatAM amane kahevAmAM AvyuM ke yAsnAyA poliyAnAnI TUra rada karavAmAM AvI che. TUrisTa kAunTara para beThelI yuvatI pAse ame gayA ane pUchyuM, "TUra kema rada karavAmAM AvI che ?' 'pUratA pravAsI nathI eTale." gaI kAle tame kahyuM hatuM ke TUra mATe ochAmAM ochA cAra pravAsI joIe. Aje ame cAra pravAsI to thaI gayA ja chIe.' hA, te sAcuM. paNa cAramAMthI phakta tamArA benA yAsnAyA poliyAnA mATenA vIsA AvI gayA che. paraMtu bIjA benA vIsA AvyA nathI, kAraNa ke teo baMnenI arajI moDI paDI che." meM kahyuM, "gaI kAle tame amane nirAza karyA ane Aje paNa nirAza karo cho. mane mahAtmA taoNlsatoyanI janmabhUmi jovAnI khUba utkaMThA che. mAre mATe te tIrthayAtrA samAna che. huM muMbaI yunivarsiTImAM prophesara chuM ane lekhaka chuM. taoNlsatoyanuM sAhitya meM vAMcyuM che. tamArA uparIne samajAvIne tame amArI TUra rada na thAya evuM kaMI na karI zako ?" thoDI AnAkAnI pachI vaDI kacerIe phona joDAyo. raziyana bhASAmAM zI vAta thAya che tenI zI khabara paDe ? paraMtu ghaNI lAMbI vAta cAlI. vAsnAyA poliyAnA eka 151

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chevaTe yuvatIe amane vadhAmaNI ApI : "tamArI TUra have rada thatI nathI. yAsnAyA poliyAnA tamane bene mokalavA mATe ame basanI vyavasthA karIe chIe. tame beso thoDI vAra." ame thoDI vAra rAha joIne beThA hoIzuM tyAM gherA lAla raMganuM zarTa ane badAmI raMganuM skarTa paherelI, "indrarisTa'nA billAvALI eka cabarAka yuvatI AvI pahoMcI. te amArI tapAsa karatI hatI. ame tarata ene maLyA. enuM nAma annA hatuM. meM kahyuM, "taoNlsataoNyanI janmabhUmi jovA jaIe chIe ane tamAruM nAma annA che, e paNa eka zubha saMketa che. taoNlsatoyanI annA kereninA nAmanI navalakathA che. keTalAka ANNAno uccAra "AnA" kare che, to keTalAka "AnnA' ke "annA" ke "enA' kare che. tame zo karo cho ?" annA; kema pUchavuM paDyuM ?' - "amArA bhAratamAM keTalAka raziyana zabdonA uccAra iMgliza bhASA pramANe ame karIe chIe; eTale mULa raziyana uccAra jANavA huM utsuka annAne AnaMda thayo. te iMgliza ane raziyana baMne bhASA sarasa bolatI hatI ane baMnenA lekhana-uccAraNanA bheda paNa jANatI hatI. annAe kahyuM, "ApaNe pAMca miniTamAM ja bahAra jaIe chIe. ApaNA mATe basa bahAra AvI gaI che.' "phakta be pravAsIo mATe tamAre AkhI basa doDAvavI paDe che te mATe ame dilagIra chIe." meM aupacArika viveka karyo. "teno kazo vAMdho nahi. amArI oNphisa tevo vicAra nathI karatI. balka, hajAro videzI pravAsIomAMthI taoNlsatoyanA vatanamAM rasa levAvALA tame be pravAsIo nIkaLyA, te amAre mATe AnaMdanI vAta che." ame yunivarsiTInA kampAunDanA daravAjAnI bahAra nIkaLyA, paNa tyAM amArI basa nahotI. tapAsa karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke amArA mATe AvelI basa pAchI cAlI gaI che. annAne navAI lAgI. zuM thayuM te samaja na paDI. amane UbhA rAkhI annA pAchI oNphisamAM tapAsa karavA doDI. thoDI vAre pAchI AvI ane amane kahyuM, "ApaNe kula traNa ja jaNa javAnA chIe; mATe have basa levAnI jarUra nathI. ApaNe mATe kAra mokalavAmAM Ave che." thoDI vAramAM vaoNlgA brAnDanI moTI kALI eNrakanDizanDa limojhina 15ra ja pravAsa-darzana

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gADI AvI pahoMcI. ame temA beThAM. jANe vI.AI.pI.nI jema amAro pravAsa goThavAyo hoya tevuM lAgyuM. maoNsko zahera choDI amArI gADI dhorI rastA upara cAlavA lAgI. raziyana dhorI rastA bahu sArA nathI, kAraNa ke teno vaparAza ghaNo ocho che. bhAratanA keTalAka rastAo raziyAnA rastA karatAM ghaNA caDhiyAtA lAge. rastAmAM moTarakAra bhAgye ja jovA maLe. koI vakhata Trako pharatI dekhAya. paraMtu temAM paNa amerikAmAM jovA maLe tevI moTI svaccha ane navA jevI cakacakita nahi. jUnI, kadarUpI ane kyAreka gaMdI paNa lAge. amerikAmAM jUnI vastuo jaladI kADhI nakhAya che. upayogamAM laI zakAya tyAM sudhI jUnI vastuo pheMkI devAnI paddhati soviyeTa yuniyanamAM nathI. raziyAnA dhorI mArgo TrAphikathI dhamadhamatA nathI. zAMta ane manohara lAge che. rastAnI baMne bAjue UMcAM UMcAM lIlAMchama vRkSo UgelAM che. e vRkSomAM sIdhAM, zvetavarNA thaDavALAM ane asAdhAraNa UMcAM kharca vRkSonuM pramANa ghaNuM che. raste nAnAM gAmaDAMo Ave. rastAmAM mAthe TopalA ke poTalAM mUkI page cAlanAra vaTemArguo paNa jovA maLe che, kAraNa ke raziyAmAM gAmaDAMo vacce basa-vyavahAra ghaNo ocho che. yAsnAyA poliyAnA sudhInuM aMtara lagabhaga baso kilomITara jeTaluM che. paraMtu amArI gADI vacce vacce UbhI rahetI, kAraNa ke amAro DrAivara A raste pahelI vAra Avato hato. jyAM be rastA paDe tyAM ene pUchavuM paDatuM. vaLI cekiMga Ave tyAM prAivara ane gAiDanAM oLakhapatro tapAsAtAM, gADI laI javAnI paravAnagI tapAsAtI ane amArA pAsapaoNrTa tathA visA tapAsatA. e tapAsavAmAM jarA paNa raghavATa dekhAto nahi. TrAphika aTakI javAnI koI bIka nahotI, kAraNa ke TrAphika ja nahoto. vastuta: kaMI bhUlacUka na thaI jAya tenI pharaja paranA mANasone bIka vadhu rahetI. rastAmAM cekhova ane tulA nAmanAM nagaro vaTAvI ame yAsnAyA poliyAnA pahoMcyAM. A nAnakaDA, zAMta, ramaNIya gAmane pAdare amArI gADI pahoMcI ke tarata ja amArA visA tapAsAyA. have annAnI pharaja ahIM pUrI thaI. gAmanA pAdarethI luDamilA nAmanI sthAnika yuvatI amArI gAiDa tarIke amane dorI gaI. luDamilA sthAnika skUlamAM zikSikA che. iMgliza ane bIjA viSayo bhaNAve che. te aMgrejI sarasa bole che. taoNlsatoyanA pitA raziyAnA jhAra rAjAnA samayamAM moTA umarAva hatA. temaNe vasAvelI jAgIra te A yAsnAyA poliyAnA. taoNlsatoyane yAsnAyA poliyAnA 4 153

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te vArasAmAM maLelI. ahIM taoNlsatoyano janma thayelo ane mRtyu pachI emanA dehane ahIM ja daphanAvavAmAM Avyo hato. potAnA vyAsI varSanA AyuSyamAMthI taoNlsatoye vIsa varSa maoNskomAM ane bAkInAM varSa yAsnAyA poliyAnAmAM vitAvyAM hatAM. taoNlsatoya garbhazrImaMta hatA. paraMtu moskomAM vasatIgaNatarInuM kAma karatI vakhate garIba lokonA, kaMpArI chUTe evA vistAronI lIdhelI mulAkAtathI temanI jIvana pratyenI dRSTi badalAI hatI. temanAmAM mAnavatA pragaTI hatI. teo sAduM ane nirADaMbarI jIvana jIvavA icchatA hatA. paraMtu e bAbatamAM temanI patnI sophiyAno sahakAra na hato. sophiyAne umarAvanuM mojazokhabharyuM jIvana bahu gamatuM. pariNAme patipatnI vacce vAraMvAra saMgharSa thato. jyAre zrImaMta gharamAM potAnI zokhIna patnI sAthe rahevAnuM asahya thaI paDyuM tyAre eka divasa taoNlsatoya rAtane vakhate cUpacApa ghara choDIne cAlyA gayA. temane nyUmoniyA thayo hato. pAsenA eka relave-sTezana para temanuM avasAna thayuM. temanA dehane yAsnAyA poliyAnA lAvavAmAM Avyo ane temanI bhAvanA anusAra sAdAIthI daphanAvavAmAM Avyo. luDamilA amane taoNlsatoyanA makAnamAM laI gaI. A makAna have taoNlsatoyanI smRtimAM saMgrahasthAna tarIke vaparAya che. makAnamAM dAkhala thatAM pahelAM amane bUTanI nIce paheravA mATe dorIvALA rabbaranA slipara ApavAmAM AvyAM, jethI makAnanI pharasa kharAba na thAya. sauprathama uparanA mALe gayAM. upara dAkhala thatAM ja dIvAla upara lolakavALuM moTuM ghaDiyALa dekhAyuM. taoNlsatoyanA vakhatanuM A ghaDiyALa Aje paNa niyamita samaya batAve che. eka vizALa khaMDamAM taoNlsatoyanuM pustakAlaya che. duniyAnI paMcAvana jeTalI bhASAnAM emAM pustako che. taoNlsatoyano vAMcanazokha keTalo vizALa hato te A pustako parathI pratIta thAya che. taoNlsatoyanA abhyAsakhaMDamAM lakhavA mATenuM temanuM Tebala khAsa mApa pramANe banAveluM hatuM. Tebala ApaNane nIcuM lAge, paraMtu taoNlsatoyanI UMcAI, lakhavAnI emanI Dhaba ane cazmAM vagara vAMcavAnI paDI gayelI Tevane lakSamAM rAkhIne te khAsa banAvyuM hatuM. eka khaMDamAM taoNlsatoyano zukanavaMto manAto sophA hato. DAiniMga Tebala, khurazIo, kapaDAM sIvavAno saMco tathA TAIparAITara ane bIjI cIjavastuo, kuTuMbanA sabhyonA judA judA phoTA ane tailacitro vagere sAcavIne judA judA khaMDamAM rAkhavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. eka jAjvalyamAna yuvatIno phoTo batAvIne gAiDe kahyuM, "A taoNlsatoyanI sALIno phoTo 154 pravAsa-darzana

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che. 'vaoNra eNnDa pIsa' navalakathAmAM natAzAnuM pAtra taoNlsataoNye emanI A sALI uparathI doryuM che." chelle amane eka oraDAmAM laI javAmAM AvyAM. makAnane cheDe Avelo A te oraDo ke jyAMthI taoNlsatAMya moDI rAte potAnI putrI elekajhAnDriyA ane eka DaoNkTara mitranI sAthe byAsI varSanI uMmare asvastha tabiyata chatAM cUpacApa ghara choDIne cAlI nIkaLyA hatA. taoNlsataoNyanI patnI sophiyAne e vAtanI khabara na hatI. sophiyA tyAre potAnA khaMDamAM jAgatI hatI. dIvAnA ajavALe taoNlsataoNyanA lakhANanI te nakala karatI hatI. taoNlsatoMyanA kuTuMbanAM sabhyo zrImaMtAI choDI sAdAInuM jIvana jIvavA icchatAM na hatAM, paraMtu taoNlsatAMye pote to kheDUta ane zramajIvInuM sAdagIbharyuM jIvana jIvavAnuM cAlu karI dIdhuM hatuM. potAnuM badhuM kAma nokaracAkara pAse na karAvatAM pote hAthe karatAM. e karavA mATe pote je sAdhano ane ojAro vAparatAM te tathA temanAM sAdAM vastro A chellA khaMDamAM rAkhavAmAM AvyAM che. gharanI bahAra eka vRkSanuM ThUMThuM amane batAvavAmAM AvyuM. gAiDe kahyuM, 'ahIM keTalAka nirdhana kheDUto madada mATe taoNlsataoNya pAse AvatA. teo jyAre Ave tyAre A jhADa upara laTakAvelo ghaMTa vagADatA eTale taoNlsataoNya bahAra AvI pUchaparacha karI temane paisA vagerenI madada karatA. jhAranA samayamAM cIMtharehAla dazAmAM jIvatA kheDUtone joI taoNlsataoNyanI AMkhomAMthI ghaNI vAra AMsu saratAM. gharathI ekAda pharlIMga cheTe, taoNlsataoNyanI jAgIranI jamInamAM ja eka sAva nAnakaDA jharaNAne kAMThe taoNlsataoNyanI kabaranAM ame darzana karyAM. e kabara pAkI caNelI nahotI. daphanAvyA pachI upara mATIno Dhagalo je rIte karAya te rIte kAMkariyALI mATInI banAvelI sAdI laMbacorasa e kabara hatI. enA upara tAjAM phUla caDhAvelAM hatAM. ame paNa pAsenI TopalImAMthI laI kabara upara thoDAMka phUla caDhAvyAM. pachI nIce besI mastaka namAvI kabarane praNAma karyA. taoNlsataoNyanA jIvananA aMtima divasonI vedanAnI je vAto thoDI vAra pahelAM gAIDe vigate kahI tenuM dRzya naja2 sAme taravaratuM hatuM tethI kabarane praNAma karatAM ja mArI AMkhamAMthI thoDAM azrubiMdu sarI paDyAM. taoNlsataoNyanI jAgIranI mulAkAta laI ame pAchAM pharyAM. luDamilAe yAsnAyA poliyAnA 4 155

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amArI gAiDa annAne havAle amane karyA. bhojanano samaya thaI gayo hato eTale annA amane mukarara karelA resTorAMmAM bhojana mATe laI gaI. annAe amAre mATe zuddha zAkAhArI vAnagIonI varadI pahelethI ApelI hatI. pAMu, bhAta, bAphelAM zAkabhAjI, kacuMbara, dUdha, kaoNphI vagere to hatAM ja, paNa amAre mATe khAsa je sUpa banAvavAmAM Avyo hato te A pradezanI viziSTa vAnagI hatI. "AkrozaskA' nAmano A sUpa garama nahi paNa ThaMDo hato. temAM kAkaDI, TameTAM vagere sudhArIne nAkhelAM hatAM ane temAM jalajIrA ane madhanA zarabata jevuM, paNa thoDuMka khaTamIThuM pravAhI hatuM. - bhojana laI ame gADImAM beThAM. Akhe raste raziyAnA lokajIvana vize annA sAthe keTalIka nikhAlasa vAto thaI. alabatta sTelina, kucceva, pAstaranAka, soljanini, sTelinagrADa vagere vize vAta karavAno annAe hasate mukhe spaSTa inkAra karI dIdho. soviyeTa yuniyana vizenA ApaNA keTalAka khayAlo khoTA ane bIjA dezonA pracArane lIdhe kevA bhramavALA hoya che te annA sAthe thayelI vividha praznonI carcA dvArA jANavA maLyuM... amAro DrAivara e koI basanA sAmAnya DrAivara jevo na hato. te UMcI pAyarIno mANasa hato. dilhImAM soviyeTa yuniyananI eNmbasImAM raziyana elacInA DrAivara tarIke teNe kAma karyuM hatuM. evI kAmagIrI bahu ja javAbadAra vyaktine soMpAya che. DrAivara potAnA elacI sAthe bhAratamAM ghaNe sthaLe pharelo hato. e thoDAka hiMdI zabdo jANato hato. amArI vAtomAM te rasa leto hato. annA amArI vAtonuM raziyanamAM bhASAMtara karIne tene kahetI ane te je kahe tenuM bhASAMtara karIne amane aMgrejImAM kahetI. eNe raziyA vize amAro abhiprAya pUchuyo. "ame keTalIka bAbatonI prazaMsA karI ane keTalIkanI TIkA paNa karI. pachI bhArata vize ame eno abhiprAya pUchayo. te kahe ke bhAratamAM ajANyA mANasone vepArIo chetarI le che te ene gamatuM nathI. potAno anubhava TAMkatAM eNe kahyuM ke potAnI moTarano eka nAno sperapArTa vAraMvAra bagaDI jato. e sperapArTa mATe dilhInI eka moTI ane jANItI dukAne te jato hato. e mATe te aDhIso rUpiyA cUkavato. dukAnadAra tene bahu AdarathI bolAvato ane cA-pANI pivaDAvato. paraMtu pAchaLathI khabara paDI ke ATha rUpiyAnI vastu mATe dukAnadAra aDhIso rUpiyA paDAvato hato. e ghaNI moTI chetarapiMDI karato hato tenI khabara paDatAM bhArata mATe tenuM mAna ochuM thayuM hatuM. 157 4 pravAsa-darzana

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bhAratanuM AvuM varavuM citra eka videzInA manamAM kAyamane mATe aMkita thayeluM joIne ame glAni anubhavI. pravAsa pUro thatAM annA ane DrAivarane ame raziyana bhASAmAM 'spAsibA' ('AbhAra') ane 'dAsvideniyA' ('Avajo') kahyuM. baMnee amArI vidAya lIdhI. te samaye ame emane baMnene pAMca pAMca rUbalanI bakSisa ApI, paNa teno asvIkAra karatAM teo baMnee kahyuM, "ame amAruM kartavya bajAvyuM che. amAre tyAM bakSisanI prathA nathI; kSamA karajo. amArI kAmagIrIthI tamane saMtoSa thayo che ema tamArI vAtacIta parathI spaSTa dekhAya che. tema chatAM pAchaLathI paNa tamane amArI kaMI bhUlacUka ke truTi jaNAya to te mATe ame agAuthI kSamA mAgI laIe chIe." (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) L yAsnAyA poliyAnA * 157

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22 mAunTa Abuna (raziyA) ame jyAre soviyeTa yuniyananA pravAsanuM Ayojana karyuM tyAre TrAvela kaMpanInA sTAphanA sabhye amArI pravAsI-grupanI miTiMgamAM kahyuM, 'mAre tamane eka khuzakhabara ApavAnA che. soviyeTa yuniyananI 'inaTUrisTa' kaMpanIe tamArA pravAsamAM eka vadhArAnuM sthaLa umerI ApyuM che. enuM nAma che mAunTa Akhuna. e mATe tamAre koI vadhArAnI 2kama ApavAnI nathI.' mAunTa Abuna (anya uccAra pramANe Ahuna) nAmanuM sthaLa duniyAmAM kyAM AvyuM enI tyAre amane kazI ja khabara nahotI. e nAma paNa pahelI vAra ame sAMbhaLyuM, paraMtu duniyAnA koI ajANyA khUNAmAM AveluM eka ajANyuM sthaLa jiMdagImAM jovA maLaze e vAtano amane bahu AnaMda thayo. nakazAmAM amane batAvavAmAM AvyuM ke soviyeTa yuniyanamAM, raziyAmAM naiRtya dizAnA cheDe, kALA samudra (Black Sea)nA kinAre AvelA socI nAmanA nagarathI vIseka mAila dUra Akhuna parvata Avelo che. nahi dhArelA, nahi kalpelA, nahi jANelA evA koI sthaLe ajANatAM javAnA saMjogo UbhA thAya emAM paNa koI saMketa rahyo haze ! meM mArA pravAsI mitrone kahyuM ke je sthaLe je samaye je vyaktine javAnuM nirmAyuM hoya tyAM gayA vagara eno chUTako nathI. kyAreka hoMzathI javAnuM thAya che, to kyAreka lAcAra banIne ke du:khI thavA mATe javuM paDe che. kyAreka koIka UMcakIne tyAM laI jAya che. AvI rIte je jaLa ke sthaLano sparza 158 * pravAsa-darzana

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thavAno hoya tene jaina dharmamAM 'kSetrasparzanA' kahevAmAM Ave che. mArA eka mitre kahyuM, 'ApaNA badhAnI mAunTa AbunanI kSetrasparzanA haze ja, nahi to e sthaLa Ama sAmethI umerAya kevI rIte ?' soviyeTa yuniyanamAM keTalAMka sthaLono pravAsa karI ame be divasanI saphara mATe socInA eNrapaoNrTa para UtaryA tyAre sthAnika gAiDa yuvatI amane AvakAravA mATe AvI pahoMcI hatI. enuM nAma hatuM liyonA. ame basamAM goThavAyA. liyonAe socIno paricaya ApatAM kahyuM, 'samagra soviyeTa yuniyanamAM havA khAvAnA sarvazreSTha sthaLa tarIke socInI gaNanA thAya che. bahu jUnA vakhatamAM ahIM ubecI jAtinA loko vasatA hatA. teo mATe 'socI' zabda paNa vaparAto hato. eTale vakhata jatAM A jagyAnuM nAma 'socI' paDI gayuM.' socI kokesasa parvatanI taLeTImAM ane kALA samudranA kinAre AveluM aitihAsika sthaLa che. ahIM 'nAvAjinaskorya' nAmano killo che. enI sthApanA I.sa. 1896mAM thayelI. soviyeTa yuniyananI racanA pachI 1930thI 1950nA gALAmAM socIno ghaNo vikAsa thayo. ahIM cAnA bagIcA che; tamAkunAM khetaro che ane phaLanI vADIo che. ahIM garama pANInA jharA che. parvatamAMthI vahetAM jharaNAMonuM ahIMnuM kSAravALuM pANI biyata mATe sAruM gaNAya che. eTale ja ahIM havAphera ane Arogya mATe ghaNAM saeNneToriyama che. ahIM taDako ThIka ThIka paDe che. eTale A vistAranI havA paNa Arogya mATe vakhaNAya che. socInI vastI sADA traNa lAkhanI che. paNa ahIM unALAnA divasomAM samagra soviyeTa yuniyanamAMthI rojeroja hajAro pravAsIo Ave che. jeone DaoNkTare bhalAmaNa lakhI ApI hoya teo AvI zake che. ahIM hArabaMdha ghaNAM badhAM jabarajasta moTAM moTAM saeNneToriyama che. dardIone sAmAnya rIte vadhumAM vadhu eka mahino rahevA devAmAM Ave che. dareka pAse DaoNkTaranuM sarTiphikeTa uparAMta potAnA TreDayuniyananI ciThThI hovI jarUrI che. badhA tArIkha pramANe Ave ane tArIkha pramANe jAya. ahIM badhuM ja vyavasthita hoya che. unALAmAM amuka vakhate jyAre sauthI vadhu loko havAphera mATe AvyA hoya tyAre socInI vastI vadhIne vIsa lAkhe pahoMcI jAya che. bahAragAmanA pravAsIonI basonI Avana-jAvana tyAre Akho divasa satata cAlyA kare. amArI hoTela zahe2nA eka cheDe hatI. hoTelamAM jaI sAmAna mUkI, mAunTa Abuna * 159

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laMca laI, thoDo ArAma karI ame basamAM pharavA nIkaLyA. liyona badhuM samajAvatI hatI. amane "dAgomI' nAmanA cAnA bagIcAmAM laI javAmAM AvyA. tyAra pachI amane "riviyerA' nAmanA sauthI moTA udyAnamAM pheravavAmAM AvyAM. sAMje ame hoTela para pAchA pharyA tyAre liyonAe kahyuM, "have AvatI kAlano divasa tamAre svecchAe pharavA mATeno che." paNa kAryakrama pramANe to kAle mAunTa Abuna javAnuM che ne !' amArAmAMnA keTalAka bolI UThyA. oha ! tamane saMdezo maLyo nathI ?' liyonAe Azcarya vyakta karatAM umeryuM, "mApha karajo, mAunTa Akhunano kAryakrama baMdha rahyo che. tyAMno rasto bahu kharAba che. thoDA divasa pahelAM ja sarakAre tyAM koI paNa basane javAnI manAI pharamAvI che. tyAM javuM salAhabharyuM nathI. socImAM AsapAsa pharavAnAM ghaNAM sthaLa che. tame samudrakinAre jaI zako; sToramAM jaI kharIdI karI zako; tamArI hoTelamAM paNa pAchaLa ramaNIya jhADI che tyAM pharI zako. dUra javuM hoya to thiyeTaramAM bele jovA paNa jaI zako. eTaluM yAda rAkhajo ke ahIM rastAmAM adhavacce TaeNksI maLatI nathI. hoTelavALA phona karIne TaeNksI bolAvI Apaze. ahIM TaeNksI ochI che eTale keTalIka vAra TaeNksIvALA iMgliza pUruM samajatA nathI ane marajI mujaba rakama mAge che. bane tyAM sudhI javA-AvavAnuM sAthe TharAvajo, nahi to page cAlatAM pAchA pharavuM paDaze.' mAunTa Abuna nahi javA maLe e jANIne badhA nirAza thaI gayA. mArA eka mitre kahyuM, "2maNabhAI, tame kahetA hatA ke badhAnI kSetrasparzanA haze mATe pravAsamAM Akhuna umerAyuM che. paNa have ApaNI kSetrasparzanA lAgatI nathI. mAtra nAmasparzanA haze. kAraNa ke vagara jijJAsAe AkhunanuM nAma ApaNane nirAza thavA mATe jANavA maLyuM.' meM kahyuM, "hA, sAcI vAta che, narasiMha mahetAe kahyuM che ne ke, "jehanA bhAgyamAM je same je te lakhyuM, tehane te same te ja pahoMce." haju sUryAsta thavAne ThIka ThIka vAra hatI eTale ame rUma para jaI, hAtha-moDhuM dhoI, cA-pANI laI pharavA mATe nIce UtaryA. amArI hoTela samudrakinAre hatI, paraMtu samudranI sapATIthI lagabhaga pAMcaso phUTa UMcI hatI. hoTelano pAchaLano bhAga samudra tarapha hato. 160 eka pravAsa-darzana

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pAchaLanA daravAjethI e bAju nIce javA mATe pagathI hatI. samudrakinArAnA vistAramAM beThA ghATanAM, mALa vagaranAM nAnAM nAnAM gharo hatAM. enI vaccenI zerImAMthI samudrakinAre pahoMcAtuM hatuM. gharomAM rahetA loko sAdhAraNa sthitinA lAgyA. koIka pheriyA phaLa vecavA beThA hatA. nAnAM nAnAM chokarAMo zerImAM ramatAM hatAM. soviyeTa raziyAmAM sAmyavAdane lIdhe tamAma lokone anna, vastra ane raheThANa maLe, paNa keTalAka vistAromAM UjaLApaNuM na dekhAya. enI pratIti A gharo joIne amane thaI. socImAM kALA samudranA kinAre retIno paTa nathI. khaDakone aDIne pANI che. pANI sAva kALuM nahi paNa kALAza paDatA gherA bhUrA raMganuM hatuM. bIjA samudranAM pANInA raMganI apekSAe ene 'blaeNka sI' kahI zakAya, nahi to ene mATe 'DArka blyU' zabda ja vadhu yogya gaNAya. pANI UMDuM hatuM. samudramAM koI taravA paDyuM nahotuM. eTale amAre mATe ajANyA pANImAM taravA paDavAmAM sAhasa hatuM. ame mAtra pALI para besI pANImAM paga palALyA. samaya thatAM hoTela para pAchA pharI bhojana laI ame sUI gayA. bIje divase savAre cA-nAsto karI sau potapotAnA jUthamAM pharavI nIkaLI paDyA. AsapAsa bahAra laTAra mArI ame pAchA hoTelamAM AvyA. mAunTa Abuna javAnuM nahotuM eTale amAre mAtra samaya pasAra karavAno hato. amArA eka anubhavI mitrane badhAnI sAthe vAta karavAnuM bahu game. hoTelanA sTAphanA sabhyomAMthI jemane iMgliza bhASA AvaDatI hatI temanI sAthe vAta karIne temaNe pAkuM karI lIdhuM ke Akhuna parvata para koI basa jatI nathI. pharavAnA anya sthaLonI mAhitI paNa temaNe meLavI lIdhI. ame pAMca mitroe eka sToramAM javAnuM nakkI karyuM. e mATe kaMI moTuMvaheluM thatuM nahotuM. eTale TaeNksI bolAvavA mATenI vadhArAnI 2kama ApavA karatAM koI TaeNksI khAlI thatI hoya to te levA ame daravAjA bahAra UbhA rahyA. keTalIka vAra pachI eka TaeNksI AvI. ame tenI sAthe nakkI karavA gayA. vAtamAM ne vAtamAM ame kahyuM, 'amAre javAnuM hatuM to mAunTa Akhuna, paNa tyAMno rasto bahu kharAba thaI gayo che eTale amAruM tyAM javAnuM baMdha rahyuM che.' 'koNe kahyuM ke rasto kharAba thaI gayo che ?' TaeNksI DrAivare sAmo prazna karyo. mAunTa Abuna * 191

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amArI gAIDe kahyuM, "vaLI hoTelanA sTAphe paNa kahyuM ke mAunTa Abuna koI basa jatI nathI. kAraNa ke rasto kharAba ane jokhamI che. "hA, e vAta sAcI che ke rasto jokhamI che. e raste hamaNAM basa sarvisa baMdha karI devAmAM AvI che; paNa TaeNksI tyAM jaI zake che.' ame tarata nirNaya laI lIdho ke Akhuna javAtuM hoya to javuM ja che. TaeNksInA bhAva ghaNA vadhAre lAgyA, paNa javuM eTale javuM. TaeNksI cAlI. kALA samudranA kinAre kinAre bAMdhavAmAM AvelA raste ame AgaLa vadhyA. pachI TeksIe Akhuna bAju vaLAMka lIdho. caDhANavALo rasto cAlu thayo. baMne bAju lIlAMchama vRkSo hatAM. jhADI gIca hatI. vAta karatAM karatAM AkhunanI basasevA baMdha thaI javAnuM mULa kAraNa TaeNksI DrAivara pAsethI jANavA maLyuM. sAMkaDA ane vaLAMkovALA ghATa jevA A rastAmAM thoDA divasa pahelAM keTalAka amerikana pravAsIo AvelA. e vakhate be basa ekabIjI sAthe athaDAtAM koIka pravAsIne saheja vAgI gayeluM. eNe soviyeTa sarakAra para moTI rakamano dAvo mAMDyo. evo dAvo soviyeTa sarakAra zAnI maMjUra kare ? paNa eNe AkhunanI basasevA tarata baMdha karI dIdhI. vaLI TaeNksI DrAivare kahyuM ke "rasto kharAba che eTale evuM nathI ke tUTI gayo che, ke bagaDI gayo che. rasto jokhamI che, kAraNa ke sAMkaDo che ane parvatanI Toca para pahoMcatAM ghaNA badhA vaLAMko Ave che. paNa gADI calAvavAnI daSTie TheTha sudhI te sAro che. sAmasAmI be TaeNksI Ave to baMnee dhIme paDI javuM paDe. pachI eka UbhI rahe ane bIjI nIkaLI jAya. koI vakhata evuM paNa bane ke sAmasAme pasAra na thaI zakAya to vAhana thoDuM AgaLapAchaLa karIne nIkaLavuM paDe." ame Akhuna parvata para AvyA. raziyAmAM kokesasa parvatanI hAramALAmAM samudranI sapATIthI lagabhaga aDhI hajAra phUTanI UMcAI dharAvatA A parvatanuM bhUtakALamAM lazkarI dRSTie ghaNuM mahattva haze ema jaNAya che. parvatanI Toca para vizALa sapATa jamInamAM killo che. temAM vacce uttuMga TAvara jevI kALA paththaranI racanA karavAmAM AvI che. AsapAsanA dezanA lazkarI nirIkSaNa mATe ja A Observation Tower banAvelo lAgyo. emAM dAkhala thaI aMdarathI lagabhaga doDhaso jeTalAM pagathiyAM caDI ame enI agAzImAM pahoMcyA. mAthe savArano taDako hato, paNa zItala havAne lIdhe te eTalo lAgato nahoto. eka bAju kSitija para kokesasa parvatanI hAramALAnAM keTalAMka zikharo dekhAtAM hatAM. raziyA, 162 pravAsa-darzana

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jyorjiyA, ArmeniyA ane AjharabaijAnanAM rAjyone joDatI Azare bAraso kilomITara lAMbI A parvatIya hAramALA yuropa ane eziyAnA khaMDone judA pADe che. prAcIna kALamAM kokejhiyana jAtinA sapheda cAmaDIvALA loko krame krame samagra yuropamAM prasarI gayA. e jAtinuM nAma A parvatamALA sAthe saMkaLAyeluM che. bIjI bAju naja2 karatAM kALo samudra dekhAto hato. bAraso kilomITara lAMbA A baMdhiyAra samudra (Inland Sea)nA kinAre rUmAniyA, bilveriyA, yukreina, raziyA, jyorjiyA ane turkastAna AvelAM che. A badhAM rAjyo vacce samudranA jaLavistAra upara sarasAI meLavavA mATe bhUtakALamAM vakhatovakhata nAnAMmoTAM ghaNAM yuddho khelAyAM che. ogaNIsamA saikAmAM, sAmasAmA kinAre AvelAM raziyA ane turkastAna vacce to dariyAmAM naukAsenAo vacce vAraMvAra laDAIo thatI rahI ane vIsamI sadImAM TheTha bIjA vizvayuddha sudhI te cAlyA karI hatI. aneka sainikonAM lohI A samudramAM reDAyAM che. AthI ja apazukaniyALa manAtA A samudranuM nAma kALo samudra' paDI gayuM hatuM. haju paNa koI koI vAra nAnAM chamakalAM ane cAMciyAgIrInA banAvo A samudramAM banatA rahe che. agAzImAMthI cAre bAjunuM nirIkSaNa karyA pachI amane ema lAgyuM ke "bhUtakALamAM vakhatovakhata yuddhanA raktathI kharaDAyelI A bhUminI zAMti mATe ahIM besIne ApaNe prArthanA karavI joIe." maunapUrvaka UbhA UbhA zAMtithI manamAM prArthanA karyA pachI ema paNa thayuM ke zA mATe besIne prArthanA na karavI joIe ? bUTa-caMpala kADhI ame pAMce jaNa nIce besI gayA. sAmAnya rIte ahIM koI pravAsI AvuM na kare. sau koI ahIM agAzImAM Ave, cArebAju UbhAM UbhAM, pharatAM pharatAM jue, phoTA pADe ane nIce UtarI jAya. ame palAMThI vALIne beThA. prArthanAmAM zuM bolIzuM ? nakkI thayuM ke navakAramaMtra, laghu zAMti, moTI zAMti, bhaktAmara stotra ane Atmasiddhi bolavAM. ane chelle duHkhalaya mATe cAra logassano kAusagga karavo. ame eka pachI eka stotra bulaMda kaMThe bolavA lAgyA. koI apUrva ullAsa anubhavAto hato. thoDI vAramAM keTalAka pravAsIo AvyA. vAto karatAM karatAM ane pagarakhAMnA avAja sAthe teo agAzImAM dAkhala thayA. tyAM amane jotAM ja teo zAMta thaI gayA. teone mATe amArI prArthanAnuM dazya asAmAnya hatuM. keTalAka kutUhalathI pAse AvIne UbhA rahyA. keTalAke potAnI pAchaLa AvI rahelA bIjA pravAsIone zAMta rahevA nAke tarjanI mAunTa Abuna jhAka 163

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aDADI bhalAmaNa karI. koIka to amArI bAjumAM AvIne zAMtithI besI gayA ane be hAtha joDI sAMbhaLavA lAgyA. eka bhAvasabhara dRzya banI gayuM. bhaktAmara stotra ane Atmasiddhi jevI dIrgha kRtione kAraNe amArI prArthanA ThIka ThIka samaya cAlI. chevaTe cAra logassano kAusagga karI ame UbhA thayA. koIka pravAsIoe jijJAsAthI pUchyuM ke 'ame zuM gAtA hatA ane zA mATe ?' ame kahyuM, 'Prayer for World Peace.' amArA uttarathI teo prabhAvita ane rAjI thayA. pagarakhAM paherI, pharI eka vAra cAre bAjunAM dRzyonuM avalokana karI ame nIce utaryA. TaeNksImAM besI hoTela para AvI gayA. ThIka ThIka moDuM thaI gayuM hatuM, thAkyA hatA ane bhUkha paNa lAgI hatI. laMca laIne ame laoNbImAM AvIne beThA. sAMje AsapAsa pharavA kyAM javuM teno vicAra karatA hatA evAmAM eka vaDIla mitradaMpatI tyAM AvyuM. mitre mane prazna karyo, '2maNabhAI, savAre kema tame badhA dekhAyA nahi ?' 'ame mAunTa Akhuna gayA hatA.' 'majAka na karo, mAunTa Abuna to baMdha che. rasto kharAba che.' 'nA, rasto kharAba nathI, bahu sAMkaDo che. TaeNksI jaI zake che. ame TaeNksImAM jaI AvyA.' kharekhara ? to amane kahevuM hatuM ne ? ame paNa sAthe Avata !' 'amane zI khabara ke tamAre AvavuM haze ? ame to nakkI thayuM ke tarata UpaDyA.' 'tamArI vAta sAMbhaLI amane bahu aphasosa thAya che. socI AvyA paNa Akhuna na joyuM. zuM lIdhuM TaeNksIvALAe ?' 'so DaoNlara lIdhA.' 'e to bahu kahevAya !' 'jovuM hoya to eTalA ApavA paDe. eka to ahIM TaeNksI maLe nahi. hoTela dvArA phona karIne TaeNksI bolAvIe to pAMca-dasa kilomITara dUrathI Ave tenA AvavA-javAnA vadhArAnA moMmAgyA DaoNlara ApavA paDe. koInI khAlI thatI TaeNksI hoya to sastI paDe, ane tarata kAma thAya. ame evI eka TaeNksIvALAne pUchyuM ane eNe kahyuM ke Akhuna jaI zakAya che eTale ame tarata besI ja gayA. ane joI AvyA.' 'kevuM che ?' 164 * pravAsa-darzana

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'bahu sarasa che, javA jevuM che. amArA mATe to eka yAdagAra anubhava thaI gayo.' have jaI zakAya ?' 'hA, jarUra ! haju ghaNA kalAka che !' 'joIe, koI AvatuM hoya to amAre paNa javuM che.' mitradaMpatInI vidAya laI ame rUmamAM AvI ArAma karavA ADA paDyA. thoDI vAra pachI rUmanA daravAjA para TakorA paDyA. mitrapatipatnI AvyAM hatAM. temaNe kahyuM '2maNabhAI, ame Akhuna mATe TaeNksIvALA sAthe nakkI karyuM, paNa amArI sAthe AvIne taiyAra thayelA traNe jaNa have nA pADe che.' 'to to tamane TaeNksI moMghI paDe.' moMghIno savAra nathI. TaeNksInA badhA paisA ame cUkavIzuM.' to to bIjA koI paNa pravAsI AvavA taiyAra thaze. traNa jaNane lAbha maLaze.' paNa have koI AvavA taiyAra nathI. ghaNAkharA bahAra gayA che. je che teone pUchI joyuM paNa koI taiyAra thatuM nathI.' 'to tame be ekalA jaI Avo.' 'paNa tame Avo kharA ?' huM to savAre jaI Avyo chuM. thAkyo paNa chuM.' 'tame sAthe Avo to amane gamaze. amane ekalAM ajANyuM lAge che. pAchA pharatAM rAta paDI jAya, ajANyo mulaka che. vaLI ahIMnA TaeNksIvALAne to tame jANo cho.' 'ema gabharAzo nahi. huM khAtarI ApuM chuM ke kaMI muzkelI naDaze nahi. dilagIra chuM ke huM pote AvI zakuM tema nathI. vaLI kalAka pachI ame badhA mitro bahAra pharavA javAnA chIe.' nirAza vadane teo cAlavA lAgyAM. mitra potAnI patnIne kahetA hatA te meM sAMbhaLyuM, 'to pachI ApaNe TaeNksIvALAne nA kahI daIe. ApaNe ekalAM to nathI ja javuM.' teo liphTamAM nIce UtaryA haze eTalI.vAramAM meM mAro vicAra badalyo. mArA na javAthI teonuM aTakatuM hoya to mAre mitradharma tarIke javuM ja joIe. jematema taiyAra thaI huM tarata doDyo. teo hoTelanI bahAra mAunTa Abuna 9 195

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jaIne je TaeNksI UbhI hatI tene nA kahI rahyAM hatAM. meM bUma pADI kahyuM, UbhA raho. TaeNksI javA na dezo. huM AvuM chuM." huM TaeNksI pAse pahoMcyo. teo bolyAM, "sAce ja Avo cho ?' hA, huM AvuM chuM mAunTa Abuna, bIjI vAra sAMje paNa e kevuM lAge che te jovuM joIe ne !' teonA caherA para AnaMda prasarI rahyo. TaeNksImAM besI ame UpaDyAM. sAMjanA cAreka vAgavA AvyA hatA. ame pahoMcyAM. khAsa koI pravAsIo atyAre nahotA. TAvaramAM upara ame caDI gayAM. agAzImAM pahoMcI cAre bAjunuM dazya nihALyuM. have sUrya pazcima dizAmAM kALA samudra bAju DhaLavA lAgyo hato. savAra karAtAM sAMjanuM dRzya nirALuM ane vadhu ramaNIya lAgatuM hatuM. havA paNa zItaLa hatI. mAro thAka UtarI gayo hato. mitradaMpatIe paNa Akhuna joIne dhanyatA anubhavI. samaya thoDo hato eTale ame nIce UtarI gayAM. TaeNksImAM besI, ghATa UtarI kALA samudrane kinAre kinAre thaI pAchA hoTela para AvI pahoMcyAM. huM manomana bolyo, "eka ja divasamAM mAunTa AkhunanI be vAra sparzanA mAre karavAnI haze ! nahi to AvuM bane nahi.' mAunTa Abuna javAnI zakyatA nathI evuM jAhera thayA pachI amArAmAMnA je pravAsIo savAramAM bajAramAM pharavA ane kharIdI karavA nIkaLI paDyA hatA teo jyAre sAMje AvyA ane koIke temane kahyuM ke mAunTa Abuna jaI zakAya che ane DaoN. zAha to be vakhata jaI AvyA' tyAre teoe e vAtane majAka gaNI hasI kADhI, paNa vAta sAcI che ema pachI jyAre jANyuM tyAre emanA aphasosano pAra rahyo nahi. bIje divase savAre socI choDatI vakhate kALA samudranA kinAre kinAre jyAre amArI basa cAlatI hatI tyAre narasiMha mahetAnI paMktio mArA kAnamAM guMjyA karatI hatI : jehanA bhAgyamAM je same je lakhyuM..." (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe : uttarAlekhana-2) 166 4 pravAsa-darzana

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23 oNslonuM avanavuM (naoNrve) duniyAnAM keTalAMka zAnta, suMdara, sukhI zaheromAM naoNrvenA pATanagara slone gaNAvI zakAya. yuropanA dezomAM uttare AvelA naoNrvenuM bhaugolika sthAna viziSTa che. eno trIjo bhAga dhruvavartuLa (Arctic circle)mAM Avelo che. sakhata ThaMDInA A dezamAM ziyALAmAM to baraphamAM sAhasika prakAranI vividha ramato ramavA khaDatala zokhIno nIkaLI paDe. dara varSe keTalAye ghavAya, koIka mRtyu pAme, paNa sAhasikatAno jusso ocho na thAya. naoNrve-svIDanamAM bhaugolika vistAra moTo, paNa vastI pAMkhI. Azare aDadhA corasa kilomITare eka mANasanI sarerAza Ave. ethI zahero sivAya anyatra gharo chUTAMchavAyAM. pariNAme loko ekAMtapriya. A ekAMtapriyatA ekalatAmAM pariName tyAre mAnasika samasyAo UbhI thAya, gunAo thAya. ekaMdare prajA buddhizALI, zAnta, samaju ane DAhI, chatAM duniyAmAM ApaghAtanuM sauthI vadhu sarerAza pramANa A dezomAM che. keTalAka prakAranI ghaTanAo to jagatamAM rojeroja kyAMka ne kyAMka banatI rahe che, paraMtu e jyAre amuka pradezamAM, amuka prajAmAM bane tyAre te ApaNane navAI pamADe che. eka vakhata slomAM ame pUrA covIsa kalAka paNa nahotA, paNa tyAre je joyuM-anubhavyuM te yAda rahI jAya evuM hatuM. ame laMDanathI oNslo thaIne uttara naoNrvenI saphare jaI rahyA hatA. oNonuM avanavuM * 167

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oslonA navA erapaoNrTa para UtarI svayaMsaMcAlita Trena dvArA zaheramAM amArI hoTelamAM pahoMcI gayA. thoDAM varSomAM A dezanI samRddhimAM keTalI vRddhi thaI che tenI jhAMkhI karAvavA eraporTa ane Trenano anubhava pUrato hato. - sAMja paDavA AvI hatI, paNa unALAnA divaso hatA eTale ahIM jANe haju bapora hoya evuM lAgatuM hatuM. oslomAM unALAmAM sUryAsta rAtanA daseka vAgyA pachI thAya. naoNrva-svIDananI uttare to madharAte paNa sUrya sAme nahi, ghaDiyALa sAme joIne bhojana karavA besavuM paDe. amArI hoTelamAM zAkAhArI bhojana amane khape evuM nahotuM eTale tapAsa karIne bahAra eka resTorAmAM javAnuM ame vicAryuM. TrAmamAM besIne resTorAMnI najIka ame UtaryA. ame phUTapAtha para cAlatAM cAlatAM resTorAMnI dizAmAM jaI rahyA hatA, tyAM mArA mitre kahyuM, "UbhA raho, tyAM kaMI dhamAla lAge che." be mANaso resTorAMnA daravAjAmAMthI barADA pADatA nIkaLyA. kaMIka mArAmArI thaI che evuM amane lAgyuM. ame tyAM ja thaMbhI gayA. baMne mANasonA paheraveza parathI lAgyuM ke teo resTorAMnA ja veiTara haze ! thoDIka kSaNomAM citra kaMIka spaSTa thayuM. be veiTaro vacce A mArAmArI nahotI, paNa eka veiTara barADato hato ane bIjo enA hAtha pakaDI ene aTakAvato hato ane samajAvato hato. barADiyA veiTarane dArUno nazo caDyo haze evuM enA avAja parathI lAgatuM hatuM. zarAbI nazAmAM mANasa ugra thAya tyAre eno avAja badalAI jAya che. evAmAM bIjA be veiTare potAnI TopI kADhIne resTorAMnA daravAjA tarapha eno ghA karyo. evAmAM bIjA be veiTaro bahAra AvyA ane pelA veiTarane zAnta pADavA dhamAcakaDImAM joDAyA. paNa barADiyo veiTara UMco, kadAvara ane jabaro hato. emAM vaLI madirApAnanA madathI gherAyelo hato. sAthI veiTarono vAravAno prayatna niSphaLa banAvIne eNe potAnuM zarTa kADhIne phagAvI dIdhuM. pachI eNe potAnuM penTa kADhavAnuM zarU karyuM. emAM jhapAjhapI ThIka ThIka thaI. dArUDiyo veiTara emAM paNa phAvyo ane penTa kADhIne eNe resTorAMnA daravAjAmAM pheMkyuM. te sAva nagna thaI gayo. enA A kRtya parathI ane vAraMvAra resTorAM tarapha AMgaLI karIne potAnI bhASAmAM e je rIte barADato hato enA uparathI evo artha nIkaLato hato ke nathI karavI mAre tamArI nokarI. laI lyo A tamAro Dresa pAcho.' 168 9 pravAsa-darzana

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traNe veiTaro khasiyANA paDI gayA. penTa lAvIne ene DhAMkavAno prayatna karavA lAgyA, paNa te vyartha nIvaDato. evAmAM polIsanI gADI AvI pahoMcI. be polIse nagna veiTarane potAnI gADImAM dhakelI dIdho ane eno paheraveza paNa apAI gayo. polIsanI gADI gaI ane jANe kazuM banyuM nathI evuM vAtAvaraNa thaI gayuM. amane Azcarya e thayuM ke rADArADanI AvI ghaTanA banI, paNa jatA AvatA koI paNa rAhadArI tyAM ekatra thayA nahi. 'tamAzAne teDuM na hoya' e kahevata ahIM khoTI paDI hatI, jANe ke koIne kazI nisbata ja nahi. prekSakavargamAM mAtra ame be mitro ja hatA. vastuta: ame ghaTanA jovA gayA nahotA, paNa amArA mArgamAM tamAzo thatAM ame UbhA rahI gayA hatA. cAlatAM cAlatAM ame veiTarone pUchyuM to jANavA maLyuM ke e veiTara vastuta: resTorAMmAM Diza-vaoNziMganuM kAma kare che. thoDA vakhata pahelAM e Diza-vaoNzaranI patnI ene choDIne bIjA koI sAthe paraNI gaI che. tyArathI ene ekalatA sAle che. roja dArU pIne kAma karavA Ave che. Aje vadhAre paDato DhIMcIne Avyo hato. ethI vyavasthApakoe ene Thapako Apyo. eTale bhAIsA'ba nokarI choDIne nIkaLI gayA, eno TUMko vRttAnta sAMbhaLIne mane vicAra Avyo ke A sukhI dezamAM paNa kevI kevI ghaTanAo bane che! raheThANa, vastro ane khAvAnuM sukha hoya ethI jIvananI badhI samasyAono aMta AvI jato nathI. vaLI vicAra e paNa Avyo ke be mANasa jhaghaDatA hoya to vacce paDIne temane choDAvavA-samajAvavAnuM baMdhu kRtya karavAno vicAra badhAne mAnya nathI hoto. je dezamAM polIsanI kAryadakSa sevA tvarita hoya tyAM bIjAnI sevAnI jarUra nathI rahetI. pagathiyAM caDIne ame resTorAMmAM dAkhala thayA. aMdaranuM vAtAvaraNa yathAvat hatuM. je resTorAMmAM thoDI miniTa pahelAM dhamAla macI gaI tyAM e vize koI kazI vAta karatuM nahotuM. sau potapotAnA kAmamAM magna hatA. aniSTa ghaTanAnAM koI spaMdano nahotAM. vizALa pravezadvAramAM UbhelI veiTrese amAruM sasmita svAgata karyuM ane eka Tebala amane batAvI gaI. ame TebalanI AsapAsa goThavAyA. eka veiTara AvIne amArI zAkahArI vAnagIno oNrDara laI gayo. slomAM unALAmAM paNa ApaNane ThaMDI lAge. emAM acAnaka havAmAna badalAI jAya to ThaMDI vadhI jAya. eTale ame sveTara ane TopI paherI lIdhAM hatAM. ame TopI kADhIne bAjunI khAlI khurazImAM mUkI. amArA oNsTonuM avanavuM * 199

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bagalathelA paNa mUkyA. eTalAmAM veiTrese AvIne kahyuM, "sara, tamArI TopI ahIM mUkI che, paNa tamane vAMdho na hoya to huM bahAra kAunTara para mUkI AvuM ?' nA bahena, pachI levAnuM bhulAI jAya ke badalAI jAya." nA, evuM nahi thAya, sara ! tamane billo (Tokana) Apaze eTale badalAze nahi.' bhale, jevI tamArI marajI.' amArI baMnenI TopI levAI gaI ane billA AvI gayA. veiTrese pAchuM kahyuM, "sara, A tamArI baeNga (thelo) paNa tyAM ja rakhAvI done. lAvo tamArA billA. e ja billAmAM rAkhaze eTale kazI ciMtA nahi.' amArA bagalathelA levAI gayA ane kAunTaramAM apAI gayA. amAruM bhojana AvI gayuM. ame zarU karIe te pahelAM veiTreise AvIne kahyuM, A sveTara paherIne tamane jamavAnuM phAvaze ? garamI nathI lAgatI ? lAvo huM kAunTara para mUkI AvuM. coLAI nahi jAya. heMgaramAM bharAvIne rAkhaze.' ame sveTara utArIne ApI dIdhAM. pharI billAnI eka jAvana-Avana thaI. amane veiTresa bahu vinayI lAgI. amane thayuM ke gharAkanI sagavaDa mATe A loko keTaluM badhuM dhyAna Ape che ! kharekhara, A loko pAsethI ghaNuM zIkhavA jevuM che ! bhojana pUruM thayuM. te moMghuM paNa amAre mATe yogya ane saMtoSakAraka hatuM. bila AvavAnI rAha jotA hatA tyAM mitra kahe, "tyAM sudhImAM huM bAtharUma jaI AvuM.' teo gayA ane tarata pAchA AvyA. meM pUchyuM, kema tarata pAchA ? lAina lAgI che ? nA, paNa enA paisA ApavA paDe (koIna nAkhavA paDe) ema che. eTale mAMDI vALyuM. ApaNe daseka miniTamAM to hoTela para pahoMcI jaIzuM, pachI vagara kAraNe paisA zuM kharcavA ?" mitranI vAta sAcI hatI. yuropanA keTalAka dezomAM zaucAlayomAM paisA ApavA paDe che. jyAM jIvananirvAhanuM dhoraNa UMcuM hoya ane nibhAva kharca vadhu hoya tyAM AvakanA AvA rastA zodhavA paDe. bila cUkavAI gayuM. veiTara ane veiTresa baMnene ame Tipa ApI, vinayazIla veiTresane vadhu. veiTrese sasmita AbhAra mAnyo, daravAjA sudhI mUkavA AvI ane amArI vastuo levAnuM bhUlIe nahi tenI yAda apAvI. bahAra nIkaLatAM pravezadvAra pAsenA khAMcAmAM cIjavastuo anAmata 170 9 pravAsa-darzana

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rAkhavAno kAunTara hato. tyAM ame amArA billA ApyA. tyAM pharaja para beThelI yuvatIe kahyuM, "AnA tamAre kronara (naoNrvenuM calaNa) ApavAnA che." 'kronara? ame to samajyA ke Ano kazo cArja nahi hoya." nahi sara, amAro niyama che. tyAM juo !" yuvatIe sAme dIvAla para TAMgeluM borDa batAvyuM. emAM moTA akSare spaSTa lakhyuM hatuM. vaLI cArja paNa taMgadITha hato. amAre kronara ApavA paDyA. amArA moDhAmAMthI zabdo sarI paDyA, veiTresano vinaya ApaNane bahu moMgho paDyo !' duniyAmAM keTaluMka arthataMtra mANasanI jANakArInA abhAva upara nabhe che. hoTela para AvIne AkhA divasanA anubhavonI vAto vAgoLatA ame nidrAdhIna thayA. bIje divase savAre eraporTa javA ame nIkaLyA. uttara norvemAM sarakhuM khAvAnuM maLe ke na maLe eTale thoDIka vAnagIo, phaLa, sUko mevo vagere kharIdavA rastAmAM eka moTI dukAna pAse gADI UbhI rakhAvI. dukAna khAssI moTI hatI ane bhAtabhAtanI cIjavastuo maLatI hatI, paNa te calAvavA mATe eka ja yuvAna hato. daravAjAmAM pravezatAM sAme ja eno kAunTara hato - dukAna enI mAlikInI hoya ema jaNAyuM. amArI sAthe ja khabhe hevarasekavALo eka yuvAna dAkhala thayo. lAMbA bhUkharA vALa ane bharAvadAra dADhImUcha parathI jANe te koI kalAkAra hoya evuM lAgyuM. amArI sAthe te paNa vastuo jovA lAgyo. vacce vacce te amArI sAme najara karI leto hato. amArA bhAratIya caherA, khabhe bagalathelA, amArI gujarAtI bhASA vagerene kAraNe sthAnika lokone kautuka thAya e svAbhAvika che. - ame vastuo pasaMda karI kAunTara para pahoMcyA. dukAnadAra eka pachI eka vastunA bhAva mazInamAM dAkhala karato jAya, paNa vacce vacce UMce joto jAya, jANe ke vicAre na caDI jato hoya ! amane thayuM ke vastunI kiMmatamAM kaMI bhUla haze ? ke mazInamAM kaMI garabaDa haze ? vAraMvAra vicAre paDI jatAM amAre kahevuM paDyuM, "bhAI, jarA utAvaLa karo, amAre eraporTa pahoMcavAnuM che." paNa utAvaLa karavAne badale, hisAba gaNavAnuM paDatuM mUkIne e to kAunTaranI bahAra nIkaLI amArI pAse AvIne Ubho ane vAtoe oslonuM avanavuM H 171

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vaLagyo. evAmAM pelo kalAkAra gharAka bahAra jato hato tene eNe Ubho rAkhyo ane potAnI bhASAmAM kaMIka kahyuM. ene kAunTaranI aMdara laI jaI potAnI bAjumAM besADyo. e yuvAna dukAnadAranI sUcanA pramANe cUpacApa tyAM besI gayo. dukAnadAre vilaMba mATe amArI mAphI mAgI. eNe potAno DAbo hAtha laMbAvI bhIMtamAM eka baTana dabAvyuM. pachI phaTAphaTa amAro hisAba karyo eTale ame nANAM cUkavyAM. evAmAM be mANasa amArI pAchaLa AvIne UbhA rahyA. ame pAchuM vaLIne joyuM to paheraveza parathI te polIsa lAgyA. dukAnadAra sAthe vAtacIta karIne polIse pelA yuvAnane aTakamAM lIdho. eNe dukAnamAMthI corI karI hatI. enI hevarasekamAMthI corelI vastu nIkaLI. yuvAne kazI AnAkAnI karI nahi ke bacAva karyo nahi. vastuta: te eka zabda paNa bolyo nahi. polIse ene potAnA vAhanamAM besADyo. ane teo cAlyA gayA. A badhuM cArapAMca miniTamAM banI gayuM. dukAnadAre amArI kSamA mAgI. hisAba karatI vakhate te UMce potAnA kemerAmAM joto hato. corI karatAM yuvAna pakaDAyo eTale eNe polIsanuM baTana dabAvyuM ane be miniTamAM polIsa AvI pahoMcI. ghaTanA corInI ane corane pakaDI javAnI banI, paNa na koI bUmAbUma, na koI bhAgAbhAga, na koI inkAra-pratikAra, na koI jhapAjhapI. jANe kazuM banyuM ja nathI ema kAmakAja pharI cAlu thaI gayuM. ame dukAnadArane pUchyuM, 'tamAro deza ATalo badho sukhI che, to paNa corI kema thAya che ?' eNe kahyuM, "AvA kissA jvalle ja bane, paNa bane che kharA. keTalAka mANasone kAma karavuM gamatuM nathI. corIthI gujarAna calAve. keTalAkane corInI Adata paDI jAya che, jelamAMthI chUTIne pAchA corI ja kare. keTalAka ekalavAyA jIvanane lIdhe mAnasika rogavALA thaI jAya che ane corI karI bese che. dareka kissAnI tapAsamAM kaMI judo ja niSkarSa Ave.' samRddha dezone paNa potAnI samasyAo hoya che ! ame samayasara eraporTa pahoMcI gayA. oslonI ghaTanAoe amane sAruM vicArabhAthuM pUruM pADyuM hatuM. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3) 172 9 pravAsa-darzana

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24 northa kepa (naoNrve) 'aNadIThelI bhoma para yauvana mAMDe AMkha' ema kavi meghANIe gAyuM che te keTaluM yathArtha che ! khamIravaMtA sAhasikone navI navI bhomakA khUMdavAnuM mana thayA vagara rahe nahi. dharatImAM evuM koI gUDha cuMbakIya tattva che ke je mANasanA caraNane kheMcI jAya che. bIjuM koI prayojana na hoya to paNa mANasa kevaLa kautukathI potAne mATe navA evA pradeza tarapha cAlato rahe che. yuropanI uttare asahya ThaMDA pradezamAM dharatIno cheDo kyAM Avyo che e zodhavAnI, padAkrAnta karavAnI laganI keTalA badhA zodhasapharIone lAgI hatI! jyAMthI have page cAlIne AgaLa vadhavAnuM zakya nathI tyAM AvIne mANasa Ubho rahe che. A cheDo naoNrvemAM, uttara dhruvapradezamAM Avelo che. enuM bhaugolika mApa che 71 aMza 10' 21". ene northa kepa (North Cape- Nordkapp) kahe che. kepa eTale bhUzira, samudramAM dharatIno phAMTo. ahIMthI have aphATa uttara dhruva samudra Avelo che. mANasa jyAre potAnuM nagara choDIne dUra videzamAM vase che tyAre vatana ane videza vacce enuM haiyuM hIMcakatuM rahe che. paraMtu pachIthI enI saMtati mATe videza e ja vatana banI jAya che. tyAM jIvana game teTaluM vikaTa hoya to paNa dharatImAtA sAthe enI AtmIyatA baMdhAI jAya che. eTale ja AvA asahya pradezomAM mANaso kema vase che enuM kAraNa zodhavA naoNrtha kepa - 173

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javuM nahi paDe. vIjaLI ane anya sAdhanasagavaDavALA AjanA yugamAM ziyALAmAM zUnyanI nIce trIsa- cAlIsa DigrIvALA A pradezamAM kAyamI vasavATa karavAnuM bahu kaThina nathI, paNa jyAre evAM sAdhanasagavaDa nahotAM ane astitvane TakAvI rAkhavAnuM paNa jyAM kaparuM hatuM evA A pradezamAM, purAtattvavidoe khodakAma karIne meLavelA avazeSone AdhAre jaNAyuM che Azare cha hajAra varSa pUrve ahIMnA judA judA vistAromAM mAnava-vasAhato hatI. dharatInA koI eka cheDAnuM asAmAnya lakSaNa na hoya to paNa evo cheDo pote ja eka asAmAnya lakSaNa che ke jethI tyAM sudhI pahoMcavAnuM lokone AkarSaNa rahe che, paraMtu naoNrtha kepanI to potAnI bhaugolika AkRti ja eTalI vilakSaNa che ke eka vakhata joyA pachInuM enuM vismaraNa thAya nahi. vaLI unALAmAM to A madhyarAtrie sUrya (sUryodaya nahi, sUrya to ahIM covIse kalAka AkAzamAM hoya che) -Midnight Sun-no pradeza gaNAya eTale rojanA seMkaDo pravAsIo e jovA Ave che. bhUtakALamAM jyAre pravAsa kaparo hato hato tyAre keTalAya khaDatala zodhasapharIone kharAba havAmAnane kAraNe potAno pravAsa adhavaccethI paDato mUkavo paDyo hato. Aje sagavaDo vadhatA nevuM varSanAM DosA-DosI paNa vhIlacaeNramAM naoNrtha kepa javA lAgyAM che. grISma RtumAM naoNrvenI uttare AvelA chevADAnA nagara hAma2phesTathI naoNrtha kepa javA mATe roja sTImaro UpaDe che. pravAsIone naoNrtha kepa batAvI pAchA laI Ave che. AkhI rAtano e kAryakrama hoya che; paraMtu rAta eTale sUryaprakAzavALI ajavALI rAta. hAmaraphesTathI ame kaTokaTa samaye sTImara pakaDI hatI. tyAre varasAda eTalo jorathI paDato hato ane AkAza evuM gherAyuM hatuM ke amane thayuM ke naoNrtha kepamAM sUryaprakAza nihALavAnuM amArA bhAgyamAM nahi hoya. paNa ahIMnAM vAdaLAM adhIrAM bahu. ghaDIkamAM kyAMya bhAgI gayAM. rahI nAnI nAnI vAdaLIo. sTImara AgaLa vadhatAM sUryaprakAza relAyo. jo AvuM ja vAtAvaraNa rahe to madharAte sUryanAM jarU2 darzana thaze evI amane AzA baMdhAI. A sTImaranI saphara yAda rahI jAya evI hatI. baMne bAju kAcanI moTI moTI bArIomAMthI bahAranuM dRzya barAbara dekhAtuM. baMne bAju nAnAmoTA DuMgaro AvatA. koI koIne mAthe haju paNa barapha rahyo hato. kalAkanI saphara pachI amane eka sthaLe utAravAmAM AvyA. tyAM amArA mATe baso taiyAra hatI. 174 * pravAsa-darzana

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northa kepa je TApu para Avyo che enuM nAma che mAgaroyo. thoDA caDhANa pachI upara TheTha naoNrtha kepa sudhI sapATa pradeza (Plateau - pleTo) che. DuMgaranI dhAre dhAre rasto upara jAya che ane caDhANa pachI sapATa pradezamAM rasto vaccethI pasAra thAya che. paryAvaraNa jALavI rAkhavA mATe basano tetrIsa kilomITara jeTalo rasto kAco ja rAkhavAmAM Avyo che. upara jaIne jotAM cArebAju khulluM AkAza, kSaNe kSaNe badalAtA raMgo sAthe dekhAya che. A nirjana pradezamAM eka paNa vRkSa nathI, are, lIlA ghAsanuM taNakhaluM paNa nathI. jANe caMdranI sapATI para hoIe evuM lAge. basamAM amArI gAiDa yuvatIe northa kepanA itihAsanI thoDIka rasika vAto kahI. naoNrveno uttarano A bhAga phinamArka tarIke oLakhANa che. Ama to A pradeza ghaNo dUra kahevAya ane DuMgaro tathA khINone lIdhe ghaNo vikaTa paNa kharo, paNa samudra mArge ahIM pahoMcavAnuM eTaluM durgama tyAre nahotuM. bahu prAcIna samayathI A bAju mAnava-vasavATa rahyA karyo che, kAraNa ke ahIM samudramAM nIce garama pANIno pravAha (Warm Gulf Stream) che. eTale jIvananirvAha mATe lokone ahIM bAremAsa sAmagrI maLI rahe che. naoNrve, svIDana, phinalaeNnDa ane raziyAnA uttaranA pradezamAM vividha AdivAsI jAtio vaselI che. emAM paNa koI eka ja jAtimAM pazupAlana karanAra ane mAchImArI karanAra lokonI raheNIkaraNImAM pharaka che. A badhI jAtio -- vizeSata: norve-svIDananI jAtio noDika (Nordic) tarIke oLakhAya che. hajAreka varSa pahelAM A pradezanA vAikiMga tarIke jANItA lokonuM dariyAI prabhutva ghaNuM hatuM. naukAvidyAmAM kuzala evA A loko jabarA, sAhasika, mahattvAkAMkSI ane kalAnA zokhIna hatA. keTalAka luccA, anItimaya, Akramaka ane ghAtakI paNa hatA. mAravuM ane maravuM emane mATe sahaja hatuM. naoNrvenI pazcimano samudra eTale jANe emanA bApAnuM rAjya. ajANyA koI paNa vahANane teo lUMTI letA. teo dariyAmAM cAMciyAgIrI karatA ane kinArA paranAM gAmomAM jaIne lUMTaphATa calAvatA. jUnA vakhatamAM northa kepa pAse be kaptAno potapotAnAM saDhavALAM vahANamAM so so khalAsIono kAphalo laIne nIkaLatA. ekanuM nAma hatuM huMDa. te bArakoya jAtino hato. bIjAnuM nAma hatuM kArte. te leMgoya jAtino hato. baMne jigarajAna dosta hatA. sAthe vahANa haMkAratA, sAthe vepAra karavA naoNrtha kepa 9 175

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jatA ane sAthe lUMTa paNa calAvatA. teo lUMTelo mAlasAmAna vecatA ane puSkaLa nANAM kamAtA. eka vakhata teo byAramI nAmanA gAmamAM lUMTa calAvIne ghaNI vastuo uThAvI lAvyA. emAM eka devaLanuM cAMdInuM bahu moTuM vAsaNa paNa hatuM. bIjI badhI vastuo to temaNe aDadhI aDadhI karIne vaheMcI lIdhI, paNa cAMdInA kalAtmaka vAsaNanI samasyA UbhI thaI. baMnene te gamatI hatI ane rAkhavI hatI. emAMthI jhaghaDo thayo. chevaTe nakkI karyuM ke baMnee dariyAkinAre retImAM potAnI jAtinA rivAja pramANe talavAra vaDe dvandvayuddha ka2vuM ane je jIte te vAsaNa laI jAya. te pramANe baMne sajja thayA. baMnemAM huMDa jabaro hato. eNe huMkAra sAthe kahyuM, 'kArlo dosta ! Aje to tane amArI byArakoya jAtinA khamIrano paricaya thaze.' ema karatAM talavArayuddha zarU thayuM. baMnene IjA thaI. paNa pachI huMDe kArlene eTalo badho ghAyala karI nAkhyo ke te tyAM ja DhaLIne mRtyu pAmyo. huMDe cAMdInuM vAsaNa laI lIdhuM. be dilojAna dostanI dostI cAMdInA eka vAsaNane khAtara karuNAMtikAmAM pariNamI. jUnA vakhatamAM A mArgaroyA TApumAM Tyunsa nAmanA gAmamAM be bhAIo rahetA hatA. teo mAchalI pakaDavAno vyavasAya karatA hatA. eka divasa dariyAmAM evuM bhayaMkara vAvAjhoDuM thayuM ke teo bhayabhIta thaI gayA. potAnuM vahANa cokkasa DUbI jaze ane teo baMne mRtyu pAmaze evo Dara lAgyo. have bIjo koI upAya nahoto. eTale teoe Izvarane prArthanA karI. prArthanA karatAM karatAM teo atyaMta bhAvamAM AvI gayA ane gaLagaLA sAde bolyA, 'he Izvara ! Aje jo tuM amane bacAvI leze to ame pakaDelI A mAchalIonA vajana jeTalI cAMdInI eka moTI mAchalI banAvIne devaLamAM tane arpaNa karIzuM.' sadbhAgye jANe Izvare temanI prArthanA sAMbhaLI hoya tema vAvAjhoDuM tarata zAnta paDI gayuM ane teo bacI gayA. ghare AvIne teoe mAchalInuM vajana karI, potAnA saMkalpa pramANe cAMdInI moTI mAchalI karAvI ane devaLamAM vidhipUrvaka arpaNa karI. e jamAnAmAM eka jAtinA loko bIjI jAti para AkramaNa karI lUMTaphATa calAvatA. eka vakhata raziyAnI uttarethI syUDa jAtinA pacAseka lUMTArA phinamArka para caDI AvyA. Tyunsa gAmanA A be bhAIoe, potAnA sAthIdAro sAthe bahAdurIpUrvaka lUMTArAone mArI haThAvyA. mArAmArImAM bAvIsa jeTalA syUDa mAryA gayA. enuM vera levA moTI saMkhyAmAM 176 * pravAsa-darzana

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yUDa lUMTArAo nAtAlanA tahevAromAM Tyunsa nagara para tUTI paDyA. moTI laDAI thaI. emAM baMne bhAIo mAryA gayA. yUDa lUMTArAo bIjI ghaNI sAmagrI sAthe devaLamAMthI cAMdInI mAchalI paNa upADIne raziyA laI gayA. teoe maoNskonA eka devaLamAM e mAchalI laTakAvI. (have A mAchalI moskonA saMgrahAlayamAM che.). koIke gAiDane prazna karyo ke "northa kepa' evuM nAma koNe pahelavaheluM ApyuM ? eNe kahyuM ke navamI sadImAM uttara naoNrvemAM eka saradAra thaI gayo. enuM nAma "oTara." eNe A bAjunA dariyo kheDyo hato. eka vakhata te iMglenDa gayo tyAre enI romAMcaka vAto sAMbhaLavAnI rAjA olleDane icchA thaI. rAjadarabAramAM ene nimaMtraNa maLyuM. eNe rAjAne potAnA anubhavo kahI saMbhaLAvyA. rAjAe e badhA lakhAvI lIdhA. ane potAnA saMgrahamAM mUkyA (have e briTiza myujhiyamamAM che). eNe e vakhate "northa kepa" zabda prayojyo hato ane enuM varNana karyuM hatuM. ogaNIsamI sadImAM amerikana kavi henrI loMgapheloe "The Discoverer of North Cape' nAmanA potAnA kAvyamAM A oTarano nirdeza karyo che. gAiDe AgaLa calAvyuM : I.sa.nA soLamA saikAmAM porTugala ane spene AphrikAnA kinAre thaI eziyAnA dezomAM potAnAM saMsthAno sthApyAM hatAM, tyAre teonI sAthe saMgharSamAM na avAya e mATe iMglenDe uttarano dariyAI mArga zodhavAnA prayAso cAlu karyA. tyAre naoNrtha kepa pAsenA A samudramAM vahANonI avarajavara bahu vadhI gaI hatI. e badhAMno bahu romAMcaka itihAsa che. pachI to DenmArka paNa emAM joDAyuM hatuM. sara hyuja vilobI, ricarDa cAnselara, sTIphana baro, viliyama baro, jona sTepharDa, beranTasa vagere dariyA kheDu nAyakoe jAnanA jokhame sapharo karI hatI. e vakhate kharAba havAmAnanuM jokhama to kharuM, paNa eka nAmacIna cAMciyA menDonsAnuM jokhama paNa rahetuM. enuM nAma paDe ane khalAsIo dhrujatA. chevaTe DenmArka bIDuM jhaDapyuM. majabUta moTA vahANamAM kAbela nAviko sAthe menDonsAno pIcho pakaDyo. ghaNI mahenate, dariyAI bhAgAbhAgImAM menDonsA pakaDAyo. lokhaMDanI sAMkaLomAM bAMdhIne ene kopanahegana lAvavAmAM Avyo ane tyAM rAjA cArlsa cothAnI hAjarImAM eno ziraccheda karavAmAM Avyo. menDonsAnI vidAya pachI cAMciyAgIrInuM jokhama ghaNuM haLavuM thayuM. pachI to rAjA cArlsa pote paNa eka vahANamAM khalAsIone ane amaladArone laIne naoNrtha kepa sudhI jaI Avyo hato. naoNrtha kepa - 177

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samudramArge naoNrtha kepa sudhI javAno vyavahAra to bahu jUno hato. paraMtu enI vAto sAMbhaLIne jamIna mArge javAnA koDa paNa keTalAkane jAgyA hatA. vidhinI vakratA kevI che ke kevaLa pravAsa khAtara pravAsa karanArA sattaramA-aDhAramA saikAnA AraMbhanA be dhuraMdhara pravAsIo northa kepa gupta veze AvyA hatA. vastuta: emane gupta veze AvavuM paDyuM hatuM. eka hatA iTAlInA devaLanA pAdarI phrAnsisko negrI ane bIjA hatA phrAnsanA yuvarAja lUI philipa. negrI romana ketholika dharmanA hatA. naoNrvemAM proTesTanTa dharma paLAto hato. tyAM evo kAyado hato ke je koI romana ketholika hoya ke te dharma pALato hoya to ene mRtyudaMDanI sajA pharamAvavAmAM AvatI. negrIne naoNrtha kepa jovAnI tIvra jhaMkhanA hatI, paNa mRtyudaMDano bhaya hato eTale teo vezapalaTo karIne A bAju AvyA hatA. aDhAramA saikAmAM phrAnsamAM jyAre krAnti thaI ane rAjA lUIne phAMsIe laTakAvavAmAM AvyA tyAre yuvarAja philipa phrAnsamAMthI bhAgI chUTyA ane guptaveze eka sthaLethI bIje sthaLe AvyA hatA ke jyAM temane koI oLakhI na jAya. cAlIsa varSanA phrAnsasko negrI bahu khaDatala hatA. eka lokhaMDI puruSa jevA hatA. rakhaDatA rakhaDatA teo ekalA AvyA hatA. temane koI sAthIdAra nahoto. sAthIdAra joIto nahoto ke jethI potAnI guptatA pragaTa thaI jAya. koI pUche ke "tamArI sAthe koI bhAIbaMdha kema nathI ?' to eno javAba emanI pAse taiyAra hato : "mAro joDIdAra A vikaTa pravAsamAM mAMdo paDe to mAre zuM karavuM ? huM enI cAkarI karavA rokAuM to mAre AgaLano pravAsa, e sAjo thAya tyAM sudhI, aTakAvI devo paDe. jo huM na rokAu ane AgaLa jAuM to huM niSphara ane bevaphA gaNAuM. mATe joDIdAra na hoya e ja mAre mATe sArI vAta che. mane potAne jo kaMI thAya to tenI ciMtA nathI, kAraNa ke mAre AgaLapAchaLa koI che nahi." negrI page cAlIne, ghoDA upara ke boTamAM besIne AgaLa vadhatA. teo potAnI DAyarI rAkhatA. pote citrakAra hatA eTale DAyarImAM citro ane nakazA doratA. emane bhASAno ane paisAno prazana naDato. paNa eno ukela teo zodhI kADhatA. keTalIya vAra AgaLa rasto na hoya ke na jaDato hoya to pAchA pharavuM paDatuM. paNa ethI teo nirAza thatA nahi. samayanuM emane koI baMdhana nahotuM. gharethI nIkaLyA pachI be varSe negrI naoNrtha kepa pahoMcyA hatA. pahoMcatAM ja emaNe potAnI DAyarImAM lakhyuM, "hAza.. chevaTe huM naoNrtha kepa AvI 178 * pravAsa-darzana

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pahoMcyo chuM. dharatIno A sauthI dUrano cheDo che. A pradeza vize jovAjANavAnI mArI varSonI tRSA Aje saMtRpta thaI che. mAruM svapna sArthaka thayuM che. ahIMthI huM have pAcho pharIza. IzvaranI marajI haze to huM jIvato mAre vatana pahoMcI jaIza.' ane negrI sahIsalAmata potAne vatana pahoMcI gayA. emanI sacavAyelI DAyarIe e kALanA emanA anubhavonI ghaNI sabhara mAhitI saMgharI rAkhI che. bAvIsa varSanA rAjakumAra philipe, potAnA be aMgata madadanIzo sAthe, barachaTa kapaDAM dhAraNa karI, pote sviTjharalenDanA vatanI che ane A pradezano abhyAsa karavA AvyA che evo dekhAva karyo hato. emaNe potAnuM nAma "myulara" rAkhyuM hatuM. teo bahu dekhAvaDA hatA eTale A pradezanA mahilAvargamAM AkarSaNanuM kendra banI gayA hatA. dhImI gatIe cAlatI amArI basa naoNrtha kepa para AvI pahoMcI. ame UtarIe eTalI vAramAM to AkAza gherAM vAdaLothI gherAI gayuM. have sUrya prakAza jovA maLaze ke kema te prazna thayo. paNa ghaDiyALamAM haju rAtanA agiyAra vAgyA hatA. sadbhAgya hoya to vAdaLAMno dhasAro ghaTI paNa jAya. sAme ja vizALa hola hato. emAM ame dAkhala thayA. naoNrvenI sarakAre karoDonA kharce pravAsIo mATe DuMgaranI Toca paranI sapATa jagyAmAM A haoNla baMdhAvyo che, jethI bahAranI ThaMDI, varasAda vagerethI bacI zakAya. jUnA vakhatamAM sTImara nIce UbhI rahetI ane pravAsIo hajAra pagathiyAM caDIne upara AvatAM. varasAda ke barapha paDe to koI rakSaNa nahotuM. azakta pravAsIo sTImaramAM ja besI rahetA (gaI sadImAM ApaNA jagatapravAsI kAlubhAI baziyA A rIte ja ahIM AvelA enuM smaraNa thayuM.) A vizALa holamAM cAraso-pAMcasothI vadhu mANaso hoya to paNa giradI jevuM na lAge. emAM resTorAM che, suveninI dukAno che, TeliphonanI sagavaDa che, posTaoNphisa che, thiyeTara che, zaucAlaya che, jeone rAta rokAvuM hoya temane mATe rUmonI sagavaDa che. A eka satata jAgatuM kendra che. sTAphanI pharaja badalAya, paNa kendra covIse kalAka gAjatuM rahe, satata aDhI mahinA sudhI. A kendramAM ame marajI mujaba pharyA. svajanone sacitra posTakArDa lakhyAM ke jenA upara naoNrtha kepano TapAlano sikko mArI ApavAmAM Ave che. naoNrtha kepa - 179

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pachI ame eka vizALa suzobhita bhoMyarA (Tunnel) vATe nIce cogAnamAM gayA. A bhoMyarAmAM thAilenDanA mahArAjAe 1906mAM northa kepanI mulAkAta lIdhelI enI yAdagIrIrUpe ApelI kImatI bheTavastuo eka zaoNkesamAM rAkhavAmAM AvI che. ame cogAnamAM pahoMcyA. tyAM ghaNA badhA pravAsIo hatA. A cogAnamAM kaTheDA pAse UbhA rahI nIce samudranuM darzana karI zakAya che. hajAra phUTa UMcA A khaDakanI AkRti atyaMta vilakSaNa che. enI UMcAI DhALavALI nathI paNa sIdhI laTakatI dorI jevI che. samudramAM thoDe dUrathI joIe to sIdho, UMco, jADo ane bhUkharA raMgano khaDaka, jANe airAvata hAthIe pANImAM paga mUkyo hoya evo lAge. eTale ja dariyAkheDuo mATe e mazahUra nizAnI banelo che, jANe te bhomiyAnI garaja sAre che. cogAnanA eka cheDe oLakha-nizAnI tarIke dhAtunI pAipano vizALa goLo banAvIne goThavavAmAM Avyo che, jethI naoNrtha kepane tarata oLakhI zakAya. ghaNA sahelANIo, tyAM UbhA rahI phoTA paDAve che. naoNrtha kepa gayAnI e sAbitIrUpa yAdagIrI che. A khaDaka parathI pagathiyAM UtarI nIce samudranI sapATI sudhI jaI zakAya che. jUnA vakhatamAM A khaDaka pAse sTImara AvIne UbhI rahetI tyAre upara javA mATe pagathiyAM karavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. hajAra pagathiyAnuM caDhANa bahu kaparuM hatuM, paraMtu upara pahoMcyA pachI je dRzya jovA maLatuM ethI parizrama vasUla lAgato. amArI gAiDa yuvatIe kahyuM ke jUnA vakhatamAM eka sthAnika mANasa ahIM nIce lAkaDIo laIne Avato ane pravAsIone lAkaDI vecato. UtaryA pachI ghaNA pravAsIo lAkaDI pAchI mUkIne jatA. Ama lAkaDInA vepAramAM ja e mANasa dhanavAna banI gayo. lAkaDIe enA bhAgyane palaTAvI nAkhyuM hatuM. bhAgya hoya to kevAM kAma sUjhI Ave che ! madhyarAtri cAlu thaI gaI hatI. vAtAvaraNamAM ajavALuM hatuM, paNa sUryaprakAza nihALavA maLato nahoto. ema kahevAyuM ke samagra Rtu daramiyAna nirabhra khullo sUrya kadAca koIne jovA maLe to maLe. paNa nAnI nAnI vAdaLIo pAchaLa rahelo sUrya jovA maLe to paNa moTuM bhAgya gaNAya. ahIM vAdaLAMono dhasAro niraMtara rahe che. ame rAha jotA hatA eTalAmAM to joradAra varasAda jhApaTyo. badhA doDIne haoNlamAM pahoMcI gayA. amArI pAse samaya hato eTale amArA kAryakrama mujaba ame "naoNrtha 180 ka pravAsa-darzana

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kepa' vizenuM calacitra jovA thiyeTaramAM beThA. A eka adbhuta anubhava che. ApaNe jANe helikaoNpTaramAM beThA hoIe evuM lAge. sAhasI dazyo Ave to sAkSAt anubhavatA hoIe evuM lAge ane chAtImAM gabharATa paNa thAya. jAte na jaI zakIe ane na joI zakIe evAM evAM dRzyo joIne Azcaryamugdha thaI javAya. calacitra joIne ame bahAranA bhAgamAM AvyA. tyAM eka bAju 'dharatInAM choruM' (Children of the Earth) nAmanuM smAraka racavAmAM AvyuM che. 1989mAM eka lekhakane bALako mATe kazuMka karavAno vicAra Avyo. AkhI duniyAmAM judA judA dezomAMthI sAta tejasvI bALakone pasaMda karavAmAM AvyAM. teone ahIM bolAvyAM. ahIMthI mATImAMthI teoe potAne AvaDe evI AkRti banAvI. enA phoTA laI, vistRta karI te pramANe kAMsAmAM DhALIne AkRtio banAvavAmAM AvI ane te vartuLAkAra phremamAM ahIM UbhI ka2vAmAM AvI che. sAthe mA ane bALakanI eka AkRti paNa rAkhavAmAM AvI che. A smAraka prakhyAta thaI gayuM che. A saMsthA taraphathI bALakonA kalyANa mATe kArya karanArAone pAritoSika apAya che. have amAre basamAM besavAno samaya thavA Avyo hato. ame basa tarapha cAlatA hatA tyAM ekAeka doDAdoDI thaI, AnaMdanI ciciyArIo thaI. ame pAchaLa joyuM to vAdaLI pAchaLa sUrya prakAzavA lAgyo hato. ame paNa haoNlamAM thaIne cogAnamAM pahoMcyA. sarasa sUryadarzana thayuM. tyAre ghaDiyALamAM rAtanA aDhI vAgyA hatA. sUryakiraNonuM ame AkaMTha pAna karyuM. amAre khasavuM nahotuM paNa sUryanArAyaNe paDadA pAchaLa DhaMkAI amane vidAya ApI dIdhI. amane thayuM ke sUrya to eno e ja, ApaNe tyAM AkhuM varSa dhomadhakhato hoya mATe enI kiMmata ochI ane ahIM thoDIka kSaNo mATe prakAza relAve e mATe loko gAMDAnI jema nAce ! prakRtimAM keTaluM badhuM sAmyavaiSamya che ! basamAM besI ame sTImara para AvI pahoMcyA. bIjI keTalIka baso paNa AvI pahoMcI. vizALa sTImaramAM yathecchA besavAnuM hatuM. ame uparanA mALe sTImaranI dizAmAM sAme samudradarzana thAya e rIte beThA. sTImara upaDyA pachI thoDI vAre badhAne kaoNphI ApavAmAM AvI. eka karmacArI yuvatI khAlI kaparakAbI laI javAnuM kAma karatI hatI. amArI beThaka pAsenI jagyAmAMthI te pasAra thatI hatI. eka phero karIne e jhaDapathI pAchI AvI. eNe TremAM eka upara eka ema dasabAra kapa goThavyA. mArAthI sahaja rIte naoNrtha kepa * 181

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bolAI gayuM, "bahena, thoDA ochA kapa laI eka phero vadhu karo to ! koI vakhata kapa paDI jAya.' eNe sasmita kahyuM, "sara, ema nahi thAya. A mAro rojano mahAvaro che." enA AtmavizvAsathI AnaMda thayo. paNa pachInA phere enA badhA kapa dhaDa daIne nIce paDyA. keTalAka phUTayA. keTalAka pravAsIo upara bacelI kaoNphInA chAMTA UDyA. amane paNa eno lAbha maLyo. yuvatI zaramiMdI banI gaI. eNe kahyuM, "sara, tamArI salAha sAcI hatI.' bIjA karmacArIe phaTAphaTa sAphasUphI karI nAkhI ane jANe kazuM ja banyuM nathI evuM vAtAvaraNa thaI gayuM. hAmaraphesTa AvatAM ame amArI hoTelamAM pahoMcI gayA. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3) 182 9 pravAsa-darzana

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2pa vAikiMganA vArasadAro (AisalaeNnDa) iMglenDanI uttare, laMDanathI lagabhaga hajAreka mAIla dUra, uttara eNTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAM AvelA TApu AisalenDanA pATanagara reDyAvikamAM ame hoTela leIkra AIriksanamAM UtaryA hatA. eka divasa ame rezyAvikathI lagabhaga paMcotera mAIla dUra IzAna dizAmAM Avelo galaphosa nAmano dhodha jovA javAno kAryakrama rAkhyo hato. e mATe ame eka sthAnika kaMpanInI TUramAM joDAyA hatA. samaya anusAra ame e TrAvela kaMpanInI basamAM besavA mATe mukarara sthaLe pahoMcI gayA. basa taiyAra ja UbhI hatI. keTalAka pravAsIo AvI gayA hatA. AvA pravAsamAM basamAM AgaLa beThaka maLI hoya to caDavAUtaravAmAM keTalIka anukULatA rahe che. paraMtu basamAM dAkhala thatAM ja ame joyuM ke pahelI beThakamAM eka zvetakezI vRddha mahilA besI gayAM hatAM ane koIka pustaka vAMcatAM hatAM. "mAjIe vahelA AvIne pahelI beThaka pacAvI pADI che. amArAmAMthI eka gujarAtImAM kahyuM. ATalI uMmare paNa pravAsano emane sAro zokha hoya ema lAge che.' bIjAe potAnuM avalokana jaNAvyuM. hasatAM hasatAM ame pAchaLa khAlI beThakomAM besI gayA. basamAM lagabhaga pacIseka pravAsI hatA. vAikiMganA vArasadAro - 183

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samaya thayo eTale DrAivara basamAM AvI gayo. basa cAlu karI, paraMtu gAiDa tarIke koI dekhAyuM nahi. evAmAM pahelI beThakamAM beThelAM e vRddha mahilA UbhAM thayAM. DrAivara pAsethI mAika hAthamAM laI emaNe kahyuM, "sajjano ane sannArIo ! tamAruM svAgata karatAM amane bahu AnaMda thAya che. AjanI sapharamAM huM tamArI gAiDa chuM. ApaNe ahIMthI galaphosano dhodha joI sAMje pAchA pharIzuM. AisalenDanI bhASAmAM phosa eTale ja dhodha.' emane joIne amane keTalAkane Azcarya thayuM. ame mAMhomAMhe bolyA, "sAruM thayuM ke emane vize ApaNe gujarAtImAM bolyA.' gAiDe kahyuM, "mAruM nAma che jonA groA jekabadotira. huM AisalenDanI vatanI chuM. yunivarsiTImAM prophesara tarIke kAma karyA pachI have huM nivRtta chuM. mane joIne tamane Azcarya thaze, kAraNa ke huM paMcotera varSanI vRddha mahilA chuM. duniyAmAM badhe tamane gAiDa tarIke yuvaka ke yuvatI jovA maLaze. paraMtu reDyAvikanI paristhiti judI che. ahIM sAta-ATha mahinA khAsa koI pravAsI hotA nathI, kAraNa ke A himapradezamAM asahya ThaMDImAM pharavA koNa Ave ? eTale gAiDa tarIkenuM mAruM kAma traNacAra mahinA ja cAle, paNa pachI rajA. ATalA vakhatamAM ja kamANI karI levAnI, pachI pharavAnI majA, mane sAhitya, itihAsa vagereno zokha che ane iMgliza bhASA AvaDe che. eTale ja kAma karuM chuM. mane e game paNa che. ahIM sAta-ATha mahinA to cAre bAju baraphanA DhagalA hoya. traNeka mahinA to satata aMdhArI rAtanI Rtu. ghaDiyALamAM joIne divasa-rAta gaNavAnAM. kAma vagara koI bahAra na nIkaLe. ghaNA loko to gharamAM ja besI TI.vI. jue, pustaka vAMce, pAnAM rame, bharata-gUMthaNa ke evI koIka pravRtti kare. mane paMcotera varSa thayAM che, paNa haju huM sazakta chuM. tame jozo ke tamArAmAMnAM keTalAMka karatAM huM vadhAre jhaDapathI cAlI zakuM chuM. jarUra paDe to huM doDI paNa zakuM chuM. ahIM AisalaeNnDamAM amArA lokonI nasomAM vAikiMga prajAnuM lohI vahe che. ame khaDatala chIe. game tevI muzkelImAMthI paNa ame rasto kADhI laIe. ahIMnA bhayaMkara havAmAnathI ame TevAI gayAM chIe. AisalaeNnDamAM rahevuM ane kudaratathI DaravuM e be sAthe na hoI zake.' gAiDa jonAe tyAra pachI amane AisalenDanI bhASAnA keTalAka zabdo kahyA : huM eTale ega; tame eTale pu; ame eTale viDa; te eTale haa; hA eTale lA; iMgliza eTale ejyu. A badhAmAM amArA mATe 184 aMka pravAsa-darzana

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mahattvano zabda hato AbhArano. AbhAra eTale 'tAkka' athavA 'tAkka phAyari2'. skenDineviyAnA vAikiMga lokonI bhASA tathA iMglaeNnDa ane AyaralaeNnDanI bhASAnA saMmizraNa jevI, sthAnika asaravALI bhASA te AisalaeNnDanI bhASA. amArI basa have rekTAvika nagara choDI bahAra AvI gaI hatI. jonAe kahyuM, 'have baMne bAju ekasarakho khullo pradeza tamane jovA maLaze. te daramiyAna huM tamane amArA AisalaeNnDa vize thoDIka vAta karuM. yuropanA dezomAM vasavATanI dRSTie AisalaeNnDa chello vaselo deza che, kAraNa ke yuropanI vAyavya dizAmAM ghaNe dUra, uttara dhruvanA vartuLamAM Avelo A deza che. yuropamAM grIka saMskRti aDhI hajAra varSa karatAM vadhu prAcIna che, paraMtu AisalaeNnDano itahAsa hajAra-bAraso varSathI vadhu jUno nathI. temAM paNa AraMbhanA saikAno itihAsa to nahi jevo che.' bArInI bahAra khAsa kazuM jovAnuM na hatuM. sAva sapATa dharatI hatI. cAre bAju eka vRkSa ke valI jovA na maLe. jyAM UbhA hoIe tyAMthI kSitijanuM AkhuM vartuLa jovA maLe. AisalaeNnDanI dharatI eTale TharI gayelA jvALAmukhIonI dharatI. enI kALI, caoNkaleTI ke gherI pILI mATI eTale mahesUbanI jema kANAMvALAM cosalAM jevI kaThaNa mATI. emAM ghAsa paNa na Uge. sAmAnya rIte kahevAya che ke vagaDAmAM ghAsa to potAnI meLe Uge. enI khetI karavAnI na hoya. paNa ahIM to gheTAMo carAvavA mATe ghAsa ugADavA ghaNI mahenata karavI paDe che. jonAe AisalaeNnDanA itihAsa vize vadhu mAhitI ApatAM kahyuM, 'AisalaeNnDanI dharatI upara sarva prathama paga mUkanAra te AyaralaeNnDanA pAdarIo hatA. AyaralaeNnDathI unALAmAM vahANamAM nIkaLI dariyAmAM sIdhA uttara dizAmAM teo ahIM AvI pahoMcatA. pachIthI emaNe ahIM vasavATa karyo. I.sa.nA AThamA saikAmAM teo AvelA. paraMtu tyAra pachI norvenA vAikiMga loko AvyA. eTale teo AisalaeNnDa choDI pAchA AyaralaeNnDa cAlyA gayA hatA. I.sa. 800thI 930nA gALAmAM norvenA vahANavaTIo ahIM AvIne vasavA lAgyA. norve, DenmArka ane svIDanano pradeza skenDineviyA tarIke oLakhAya che. A pradezanA loko norDika (Nordic) kahevAtA. vakhata jatAM teo vAikiMga tarIke jANItA thayA. A sAhasika, mahattvAkAMkSI, jabarA lokoe ahIM AisalaeNnDa para kabajo meLavyo ane ahIMthI AgaLa jaI grInalaeNnDa para paNa potAnuM varcasva jamAvyuM. tyAre vAikiMganA vArasadAro * 185

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AisalaeNnDanI vastI paMdara-vIsa hajAranI paNa nahi hoya. paraMtu e yuga bhAre parAkramano hato. enI ghaNI aitihAsika vigato maLe che. e badhAM lakhANo SAGA tarIke oLakhAya che. SAGA eTale AisalaeNnDano bhavya bhUtakALa. eka jamAno evo hato ke jyAre ema manAtuM ke vAikiMga loko eTale dariyAI cAMciyA, luccA, jabarA ane ghAtakI. paNa have itihAsakAro kahe che ke vAikiMga loko eTale Raiders nahi, teo Traders - vepArI paNa hatA. teo jAnanA jokhame paNa AgaLa vadhavAnI mahattvAkAMkSAvALA hatA. teoe potAnI naukAvidyA vikasAvI hatI. temanI naukAo eTale kalAno paNa uttama namUno. ajANyA mulakamAM javA emanI AMkho talasatI, norve ane AisalaeNnDanI vaccenA samudra para temanuM ja varcasva raheluM.' AisalenDanA itihAsanI rasika vAto karatAM karatAM jonAe kahyuM, "amAro deza eTale viziSTatAo ane vicitratAono deza. dAkhalA tarIke mAruM AkhuM nAma che jonA groA jekabadotira. tame mane kahezo ke AmAM groA te koNa ?' groA tamArA patinuM nAma athavA pitAnuM nAma lAge che." amArAmAMthI koIka bolyuM. "nahi. groA mArI mAtAnuM nAma che. ahIM AisalenDamAM Ama to phakta nAma ane oLakha lakhavAno rivAja che, paraMtu vacaluM nAma lakhavAnI jarUra paDe to strInA nAma pachI enI mAtAnuM nAma lakhavAno rivAja che, pitA ke patinuM nAma nahi. te pachI aTaka lakhAya che. keTalAkanI aTakamAM pitAnA nAma pachI dIkaro hoya to Son joDAya che ane dIkarI hoya to Dottir joDAya che. tame joI zakazo ke ame vAikiMganA vArasadAro chIe. amArAmAM strIonuM mahattva paNa keTaluM badhuM che !' "have tamane bIjI eka vAikiMga viziSTatA batAvuM," jonAe kahyuM, tamArI DAbI bAju bArImAMthI bahAra juo. have DuMgarAo cAlu thayA che. tamane kaMI dekhAya che ?' DuMgaronI taLeTIthI saheja UMce beThA ghATanuM lAkaDAnuM eka ghara hatuM. huM bolyo, "oho TheTha ahIM sudhI mANaso vasyA che !' nA, ahIM sudhI mANaso vasyA nathI. A to phakta eka ja ghara che. ene ghara kahevA karatAM lAkaDAnI kaeNbina kahevI e vadhu yogya che. jonAnI sUcanAthI DrAivare basa UbhI rAkhI. DuMgaranI dhAra upara ghaNA moTA moTA patharAonI vacce e kaeNbina hatI. tyAM javAnI koI keDI paNa nahotI. 189 9 pravAsa-darzana

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"emAM koI rahe che ?' hA. eka yuvAna bhAI emAM rahe che." ATale badhe dUra ahIM ekalA rahevAnuM kAraNa ?' "basa, eka tamannA. tame juo cho ke rekmAvikathI ATale badhe dUra A gharane vIjaLInuM ke pANInuM koI joDANa nathI. tyAM je bhAI rahe che te phakta unALAmAM cAreka mahinA AvIne rahe che. unALAmAM ahIM rAtanA bAra-eka vAge sUryAsta thAya ane aDhI-traNa vAgatAM to sUryodaya thaI jAya. be-traNa kalAkanI rAtamAM ahIM AisalenDamAM aMdhAruM na hoya. joI zakAya evo, cAMdanI rAta karatAM paNa vadhAre ujAsa hoya. saMdhyA ke paroDha jevo ujAsa lAge. eTale lAiTanI jarUra na paDe. pIvAnuM pANI ane khAdhAkhorAkI vagere badhuM pote bharI lIdhuM hoya. teo unALAmAM ahIM DuMgaromAM rahevA Ave che eTale prakRtinA premI haze !' hA, e to kharuM, paNa bIjuM mahattvanuM kAraNa che." 'ekalA rahe che ke patnI-bALako sAthe rahe che ?' ekalA ja. paraNyA nathI. hAthe rasoI karIne khAI le che. cAra mahinA gharanI bahAra nIkaLatA nathI. have huM tamane savAla pUchuM chuM. tame kaMI anumAna karI zako cho ke teo zA mATe ahIM AvIne rahe che ?' "rekTAvikamAM gamatuM nahi hoya mATe ' koIke kahyuM. bhAratamAM hoya to ame eka anumAna karI zakIe ke teo koI AdhyAtmika sAdhanA mATe, mauna, dhyAna, japa vagere mATe rahetA haze. bhAratamAM aneka AvA asaMga tapasvIo, sAdhako, mahAtmAo ekalA rahetA hoya che. ame kahyuM. nA, evI koI sAdhanA teo karatA nathI. teo Akho divasa chApAM, sAmayiko, pustako vAMce che." jonAe kahyuM. temane Dara nahi lAgato hoya ?' koIke prazna karyo. ahIM jaMgala jevuM ja nathI. eTale jaMgalI zikArI pazuono Dara kyAMthI hoya ?' bIjA koIke kahyuM. ahIM cora-DAkuno bhaya paNa kyAMthI hoya ? pAse kaMI hoya to ciMtA ne ?' jonAe kahyuM, "Darano prazna ja nathI. Dara to A bhAIne game evo che. vastuta: Dara upara vijaya meLavavA to teo ahIM rahevA AvyA che !' vAikiMganA vArasadAro 187

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e kevI rIte ?" tamane samajAvuM. tame juo cho ne ke emanA gharanI AsapAsa keTalI badhI zilAo paDI che !' koI koI zilAo to emanI dIvAlane aDIne paDI che." amArAmAMthI koIke kahyuM. dara varSe unALAmAM A DuMgaro parathI dhaDadhaDadhaDa karatI moTI zilAo tUTI paDe che. zarUAtamAM to barapha ogaLe eTale himazilAo tUTI paDe. pachI paththaranI bhekhaDo tUTe. paDatI gabaDatI bhekhaDo vegathI nIce dhasI Ave. A bhAIne evo zokha thayo ke jokhamo vacce jIvavuM, maravAno Dara na rAkhavo. vAikiMganuM e lohI che. eTalA mATe to emaNe ghara paNa lAkaDAMnAM majabUta pATiyAMnuM nahi, paNa pAtaLAM pATiyAMnuM banAvyuM che. cAra varSathI unALAmAM teo ahIM rahevA AvI jAya che. eTalI khAdhA-khorAkI vasAvI le che ke jethI gharanI bahAra javuM na paDe. prasannacitte teo rahe che. dara varSe ahIM ghaNI zilAo paDe che, paNa haju sudhI temane kazuM thayuM nathI." "che ne mANaso duniyAmAM ! jIvanamAM nirbhayatA keLavavA mATe kevo nusakho zodhI kADhyo ! dhanya che AvA motane muThThImAM laIne (khaDiyAmAM khApaNa laIne) nIkaLanArA mANasone !' mArAthI bolAI gayuM. amArI basa galaphosanA raste AgaLa cAlI. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) 188 pravAsa-darzana

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26 nAIlamAM naukAvihAra (Ijipta) nAIla nadInA baMne kAMThe vaselA ijiptanA pATanagara kero (sthAnika loko 'kAhirA' uccAre che)mAM rAtane vakhate pharatA hoIe to nadImAM lAiTanAM moTAM moTAM toraNothI zaNagArelI naukAone Amatema pharatI ane pANImAM surekha pratibiMba pADatI jovAno judo ja AnaMda che. ethIya vizeSa AnaMda to che e naukAmAM jAte pharavAno. ijiptano pravAsa jema pirAmiDa joyA vagarano adhUro gaNAya tema nAIlanA naukAvihAra vinAno paNa adhUro ja gaNAya. keTalAMka sthaLono advitIya anubhava 'jIvyA karatAM joyuM bhaluM' jevI kahevatane yathArtha TharAvato hoya che. nAIla nadInuM saundarya paNa evuM ja che. ame keTalAka mitro ijiptanA pravAse gayA hatA tyAre keromAM nAIlamAM naukAvihArano kAryakrama paNa amAre mATe goThavAyo hato. jevuM sthAna bhAratamAM gaMgAmaiyAnuM che tevuM sthAna ijiptamAM (misa2mAM) nAIlamaiyAnuM che. gaMgA karatAM nAIla lAMbI ghaNI, paNa pahoLAImAM ane pANInA pravAhamAM gaMgA caDe. bhAratIya saMskRtinA poSaNa-saMvardhanamAM gaMgAno phALo ghaNo moTo che, paNa gaMgA uparAMta bIjI nadIono hisso paNa che, tyAre AphrikAmAM misaranI saMskRtinA janma ane vikAsamAM eka mAtra nAIlane ja yaza maLe che. naukAvihAranA kAryakrama mATe sAMje hoTela para teDavA AvanAra gAiDe nAIlamAM naukAvihAra * 189

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savAre ja amane sUcanA ApatAM bhArapUrvaka kahyuM hatuM, "sAMje pAMca vAgye badhAe samayasara laoNnjamAM taiyAra rahevuM. badhAnI TikiTa AvI gaI che. ApaNe jo vahelA pahoMcIzuM to besavAnI sArI jagyA maLaze. moDuM thaze to pAchaLa besavuM paDaze. bahu moDuM thaze ane naukA UpaDI jaze to ApaNA paisA pANImAM jaze." potAne vAMke bIjAno kAryakrama na bagaDe evI takedArI rAkhI sau samaya karatAM vahelA lonjamAM AvI gayA hatA. gAiDa Avyo eTale enI sAthe ame sau bahAra nIkaLyA. ala gejhirAha-ala vAstA nAmanA vistAramAM Ubhe rAkhelI basamAM ame goThavAyA. gAiDe kahyuM, "ApaNe sTImaranA mathake pahoMcIe tyAM sudhImAM huM tamane amArI pavitra nAila nadI vize thoDIka mAhitI ApIza. nAIla dekhAve thoDI nAnI lAgaze, paNa tamane jANIne Azcarya thaze ke AkhI duniyAnI te lAMbAmAM lAMbI nadI che. te Azare 4160 mAIla jeTalI lAMbI che. laMbAI uparAMta enI bIjI mahattvanI khAsiyata e che ke te dakSiNa dizAmAMthI uttara dizA tarapha vahe che. vizvanI ghaNIkharI moTI moTI nadIo pUrvamAMthI pazcimamAM ke pazcimamAMthI pUrvamAM ke uttarAmAMthI dakSiNamAM vahe che. AphrikAmAM nAIla eka ja evI moTI nadI che ke uttarAbhimukha che." gAiDe vacce prazna karyo, "tame heroDoTasanuM nAma sAMbhaLyuM che ?' hA, grIka itihAsakAra, aDhI hajAra varSa pahelAM je thaI gayA te ?' meM kahyuM. barAbara che; emaNe kahyuM che ke misaranI saMskRti e to nAIla nadInI devI bheTa che. nAIla nadI na hoya to misaranI saMskRti na hoya. bhUmadhya samudramAM amArA sAmA kinAre grIsa AvyuM. je samaye grIsanI saMskRti nAnA baccA jevaDI hatI te samaye IjiptanI saMskRti pukhta vayanA mANasa jevaDI hatI, paraMtu mahattvano taphAvata e che ke lagabhaga cAra lAkha corasa mAilanA ijiptanA vistAramAM mAtra lagabhaga pAMca TakA jeTalI jamInamAM loko vaselA che ane bAkInA paMcANuM TakA jamIna te saharAnuM raNa che. ijiptanI lagabhaga sADAtraNa karoDa jeTalI ja vastI che te mukhyatve A nAIla nadInI AsapAsa vaselI che. TAnjhAniyA, yugAnDA, ithiyopiyA ane sudAnamAM thaIne vahetI AvatI nAIlano sauthI vadhu lAbha ijiptane maLe che. 190 % pravAsa-darzana

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'nAIlane "blU (Blue) nAIla" kahevAmAM Ave che paNa ahIM keromAM to te kyAMya blU dekhAtI nathI ?' koIka prazna karyo. gAiDe kahyuM, 'ahIM ame ene 'blU' kahetA nathI. vastuta: 'blU nAIla' ane 'vhAiTa nAIla' be bhinna nadIono saMgama thaI eka nAIla nadI bane che. vikToriyA sarovaramAMthI nIkaLatI nadI mukhya nadI che te 'vhAiTa nAIla' tarIke oLakhAya che. IthiyopiyAmAMthI udbhavatI ane sudAnanA khArDama zahera pAse 'vhAiTa nAIla'ne maLatI nadI te 'blUnAIla' : banne nAIla tethI temanI pahecAna mATe temanAM nAmanA sAthe 'vhAiTa' ane 'blU' evAM vizeSaNa joDyAM. amArI bhASAmAM blU nAIlane 'bahAra-ala-ajharaka' ane 'vhAiTa nAIla'ne 'bahAra-ala- AbiyAba' kahe che. sudAnamAM khAtuna pAse baMne nadIono saMgama thAya che ane pachI eka pravAharUpe ijiptamAM dAkhala thAya che. 'AtabArA' nAmanI bIjI nadIno enI sAthe saMgama thayA pachI enuM kada moTuM thAya che. kudaratanI racanA kevI che te juo ! ijiptamAM khAsa kaMI varasAda paDato nathI. varasAda paDe che ebisiniyAmAM, paNa eno lAbha maLe che ijiptane, kAraNa ke ijipta pAse UMDI lAMbI khINa che. eTale AgaLathI vahetI nadI khINanA nIcANavALA bhAgamAM dhase che ane vRddhi pAmIne bhUmadhya samudrane maLe che.' 'tamArI A nadInuM mULa kyAM AvyuM ?' 'cAra hajAra mAIla karatAM vadhAre lAMbI nadI te 'vhAiTa nAIla'. enuM mULa lagabhaga eTale dUra to hovuM joIe. ogaNIsamA saikA sudhI to e vize koIne kazI khabara nahotI. speka, liviMgsTana, morTana vagere yuropIya bahAdura sAhasika zodhasapharIoe A vistAramAM rakhaDIne nakazAo taiyAra karelA. teoe batAveluM ke dakSiNamAM nyAvAroMgo nAmanI nAnakaDI nirjharaNImAM nAIlanuM mULa che. tyAM eno janma; yugAnDA, sudAna vageremAM enI kizorAvasthA ane ijiptamAM enuM yauvana jovA maLe che. ijiptanI e janetA che, jIvAdorI che. prAcInakALamAM amArA loko 'pharAoha' rAjAone devanI jema pUjatA, tema nadIne lokakalyANa karanArI pavitra mAtA tarIke pUjatA. teonI bhAvanA evI UMcI hatI ke nAIlamAM koI mAchalI pakaDatA nahi. rAjya taraphathI paNa pratibaMdha hato. nadI mATe ATalo badho bhAva thavAnuM kAraNa e hatuM ke eka bAju jIvananuM saMrakSaNa karanArI nadI che ane bIjI bAju hajAro mAIlanuM saLaMga nirjana raNa che. koI gujarI jAya to loko zabane gAmane pAdara raNanI retImAM dATI nAIlamAM naukAvihAra * 191

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Ave. mANase AkhI jiMdagI raNamAM maDadAM daTAtAM joyAM hoya eTale lokonAM manamAM raNa eTale kabrastAna, apazukaniyALa, bihAmaNuM evo khayAla baMdhAI gayelo. nadI eTale jIvana ane raNa eTale mRtyu evI gAMTha lokonA manamAM pAkI thaI gayelI. nadImAM pUra Ave tyAre lokonAM haiyAmAM AnaMdanI bharatI Ave, kAraNa ke nAIlamAM pUra na Ave to bhUkhamaro cAlu thAya. pUra Ave eTale mAIlo sudhInI jamIna bhInI thAya, kAMpa thAya, cIkaNA kAdavavALI phaLadrupa thAya ane khetIne lAyaka thAya. e be-traNa mahinAmAM AkhA varasanuM kAma karI levAnuM. gharanAM bairAMchokarAM badhAM kAme lAgI jAya. kALI majUrI kare. bApa dIkarAne salAha Ape, "beTA, nadImAM pUra Ave tyAre UMdhuM ghAlIne jamIna sAme najara rAkhato raheje ane thAkyA vagara khetInuM kAma karI leje, nahi to AkhuM varasa pastAvo raheze.' paNa have to AsvAnamAM baMdha baMdhAyo che ne ?' koIka prazna karyo. hA, AsvAnamAM baMdha baMdhAtAM ane "nAsara sarovara'nI racanA thatAM ijiptane bAre mAsa pANInI sArI sagavaDa thaI gaI che. nAIlamAM have AkhuM varSa ekasarakhuM pANI rahe che. eTale khetI bAre mAsa thaI zake che, paraMtu haju paNa jUnI ghareDa pramANe amuka ja mahinAmAM khetI karanAra loko paNa ghaNA che. nAIlanI vAto pUrI thAya te pahelAM to naukAvihAra mATenuM mathaka AvI gayuM. kinAre lAMgarelI judI judI naukAomAMthI amArA mATenI naukAmAM gAiDa amane dorI gayo. pravezadvAra para amAruM svAgata karavA sTAphanA vinayI sabhyo suMdara vastromAM susajja thaIne UbhA hatA. sTImaramAM dAkhala thatAM ja amArA gAIDanuM moTuM paDI gayuM. te bolyo, "are ! ApaNe ATalA vahelA nIkaLyA, paNa ahIM to badhuM bharAI gayuM che. ApaNe chellA chIe.' tarata kacavATa cAlu thayo. amArA grupanA sabhyone chevADe besADavAmAM AvyA. DhaLatI saMdhyA ane paDatI rAtri e baMnenuM sauMdarya mANavA maLaze, paNa saMgIta-nRtyanI mahephila sarakhI mANavA nahi maLe eno raMja ghaNAnAM manamAM UbharAvA lAgyo. raMgaberaMgI lAiTonAM vividha prakAranAM toraNo ane phuggAothI sTImarane zaNagAravAmAM AvI hatI. vAtAvaraNa uSmA ane ullAsanuM hatuM. sTImaranA eka cheDe maMca jevuM hatuM. moTI lAiTo ane mAikanI vyavasthA hatI. enI sAme hArabaMdha khurazIo hatI. vacamAM ane baMne cheDe peseja 192 9 pravAsa-darzana WWW.jainelibrary.org

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hato ke jethI UThavA-besavAmAM koIne khaseDavA na paDe. vacce vacce ThaMDAM pINAM mATe TipoI goThavelI hatI. sabhAmaMDapa ronakadAra hato. vaccenA bhAgamAM, sTImaramAM Deka upara javA mATeno dAdara hato. bhojanasAmagrI mATenAM Tebalo hatAM, chevADe zaucAlayo hatAM. maMca AgaLano sabhAmaMDapa dAdara pAse AvIne be bhAgamAM vaheMcAI jato hato. tyAMthI paNa maMcanuM dazya to barAbara joI zakAya ema hatuM, paNa AgaLa besavAnI majA judI hatI e paNa samajI zakAtuM hatuM. chevADe besavAnuM AvyuM eTale ghaNAe nirAzA anubhavI. amArA grupanA eka sabhya to gussAmAM AvI gayA hatA ane Ayojako sAthe jhaghaDo karavAnA mUDamAM hatA. emane ThaMDA pADatAM meM kahyuM, "bIjA loko vahelA AvIne AgaLa besI gayA. emAM koIno vAMka nathI. have mananA bhAvo bagADIe to mahephilanI majA mANavA nahi maLe. mATe je sthiti che te zAMtithI svIkArI levI joIe.' ame badhA potapotAnI beThakamAM goThavAyA. ThaMDAM pINAM pIrasAvAM cAlu thayAM. amArA eka mitra bahu vyavahAradakSa gaNAya. teo maMca sudhI be rAunDa mArI AvyA. be grupamAM eka eka khurazI khAlI hatI. te te grupane emaNe vinayapUrvaka pUchI lIdhuM ke amArAmAMthI koI paNa be jaNa emanI sAthe besIe to kaMI vAMdho che ? temanI saMmati maLatAM teo sTImaranA saMcAlaka pAse pahoMcyA ane pUchyuM, "dareke potAnA grupamAM ja besavuM anivArya che ?' saMcAlake kahyuM, "hA, dareke potAnA grupamAM ja besavuM jarUrI che. ethI amane gaNatarI karatAM phAve ane khAvApIvAmAM badhAnuM dhyAna rAkhavAnuM anukULa rahe.' paNa amArA grupane sAva chelle beThako maLI che. AgaLa be khurazI khAlI che. tame rajA Apo to amArAmAMthI be jaNane AgaLa besavA maLe. tame kahezo tyAre pAchA cAlyA jaIzuM." paNa e grupavALA tamane besavA nahi de." emanI saMmati meM laI lIdhI che." "to bhale, paNa bIjA koI mahemAno DisTarba na thAya ane tamArA grupanA sabhyomAM kacakaca na thAya te jojo.' . amArA grupamAM ThaMDAM pINAMno Ubharo peTamAM jatAM cittano Ubharo zamI gayo hato. badhA potapotAnI vAtomAM magna banI gayA hatA. pelA mitre AgaLa besADavA mATe bIjI vyakti tarIke mArI pasaMdagI karI. keTalIka nAIlamAM naukAvihAra 9 193

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AnAkAnI pachI huM tyAM jaI eka khAlI khurazImAM beTho. badhA ajANyAM loko hatA. AvI sapharamAM sthAnika loko to hoya nahi. judA judA dezonA pravAsIo ja hoya. meM joyuM ke mArA mitre to potAnI bAjuvALA sAthe goThaDI mAMDI hatI. thoDI vAra pachI emaNe izAro karI mane bolAvyo. kahe, 'A bAjuvALA sajjanane meM vAta karI. potAnA grupamAM teo ekalA ja che. meM kahyuM ke mArA mitra ekalA paDI gayA che, tamane vAMdho na hoya to beThaka badalAvI Apazo ? eTale emaNe hA pADI che.' Ama, beThako badalAI ane ame be cothI hAramAM bArI pAse bAjubAjumAM goThavAI gayA. samaya thayo eTale manoraMjana kAryakrama mATenA kalAkAro maMca para AvI gayA. eka cabarAka yuvaka ane eka hasamukhI yuvatIe hAthamAM mAika laI nAcatAM nAcatAM svAgatagIta zarU karyuM. bhinna bhinna vAjiMtro vagADanArAoe vAtAvaraNa gajavI dIdhuM. baMneno kaMTha madhura ane moTo hato. saMgItanA sUrono evo tvarita laya hato ke sAMbhaLanArAone hAtha ke pagathI laya purAvavAnuM mana thAya. gIta ApaNA cittane ane najarane pakaDI rAkhe evA hAvabhAvathI rajU thayuM. yuvakayuvatIe ijiptano lAkSaNika gaNAya evo kImatI pozAka paheryo hato. enA para jarInI TIkIo ane kImatI naMga evI rIte TAMkavAmAM AvyAM hatAM ke emanA para pheravAtI lAiTanA prakAzamAM te cakacakita lAgatAM. baMnee mana mUkIne gIta gAyuM. tALIonA gaDagaDATa thayA. gIta pUruM thayuM tyAM sudhI amArI najara bahAra nahotI gaI. have svaccha pAradarzaka kAcavALI bArImAMthI bahAra joyuM to amArI naukA nadImAM atyaMta maMda gatie cAlI rahI hatI. kyAre e cAlu thaI enI khabara paNa na paDI. na avAja Avyo ke na AMcako. eNrakaMDizanano ja e pratApa. eka pachI eka ema, vacce virAma vaga2 gIto rajU thayAM, ThaMDAM pINAM yatheccha pivAtAM rahyAM. poNo kalAka kyAM vItI gayo tenI khabara paNa na paDI. saMgItanI mahephila aDadhe pahoMcI. bhojana mATe virAma jAhera thayo. judAM judAM Tebalo para vividha prakAranI puSkaLa vAnagIo rAkhavAmAM AvI hatI. AvAM moTAM moMghAM AyojanomAM mahemAnone bhojana mATe paDApaDI ka2vAnI jarU2 ja zAnI rahe ? saue udAratAthI udarapUrti karI. samaya 194 * pravAsa-darzana

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hato eTale keTalAkanI jema ame paNa dAdara caDI Deka para gayA. tyAM najara karatAM ja bolI UThyA, "are, nIce karatAM ahIM upara khullAmAM cAre bAjunuM dRzya keTaluM badhuM manohara lAge che !' aMdhAruM thaI gayuM hatuM. nadInA baMne kinAre AvelAM bahumALI makAnomAM dIvA thaI gayA hatA. kALA AkAzanI pazcAdabhUmAM e dazya koI svapnanagarI jevuM lAgatuM hatuM. dUra "kero TAvara" makAnanI uttuMgatA najarane bharI detI hatI. nadInA nIramAM tenuM pratibiMba te jANe ke DokiyuM karavA TAvara nIce pANImAM Utaryo hoya evuM lAgatuM hatuM. virAma pUro thayo. saMgItanRtyanI mahephila pharI cAlu thaI. keTalIya beThako have khAlI hatI. AgaLavALA keTalAka Deka para gayA ane pAchaLavALA keTalAka AgaLa AvyA. amane be traNa mitrone thayuM ke ahIM gIto to eka pachI eka AvyAM karaze. have emAM navInatA nathI. enA karatAM upara vadhu AnaMda mANI zakAze. ame upara gayA. nIce yaMtrotpAdita zItala havA hatI. upara tAjagIsabhara malayAnila vaheto hato. nIce mAnavasarjita kalAtmaka vAtAvaraNa hatuM. upara nisarganI vyApaka lIlA hatI. nIce mAnavIya saMgIta hatuM. upara vaizvika zAnta kolAhala hato. paNa A badhuM to je anubhavI zake te ja anubhave. nIce besanArA paNa potAnI rIte sAcA ja hatA. samaya thatAM naukAe pAchA pharavA mATe dhIme dhIme moTo vaLAMka lIdho. uparathI e dazya ramya lAgatuM hatuM. kinArA paranAM sthaLonAM parimANa badalAtAM jatAM hatAM. nIce hota to kadAca A dazya ATalI sArI rIte jovA na maLyuM hota. sTImara pAchI pharI rahI che evo khayAla, saMgItanA tAnamAM kadAca na paNa Avata. sTImara calAvanAra kaptAne rojanA mahAvarAthI gatimAM vadhaghaTa karatA rahIne ghaDiyALane Takore sTImarane potAnI jagyAe lAvIne UbhI rAkhI. saMgItano jalaso pUro thaI gayo hato sTAphanA sabhyo mahemAnone vidAya ApavA daravAjAnI baMne bAju hArabaMdha UbhA rahI gayA hatA. eka yAdagAra anubhava laIne ame pAchA pharatA hatA. ame upara hatA eTale nIkaLavAmAM amAro naMbara chello hato. sTImaranI bahAra nIkaLatA hatA tyAM aMdara thoDe dUra UbhelAM yuvakayuvatI para amArI najara paDI. jANe ke badhAnI nIkaLavAnI rAha joIne nAIlamAM naukAvihAra * 195

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na UbhAM hoya ! temano cahero paricita lAgyo. meM mitrane kahyuM, "pelAM gAnAra yuvakayuvatI to nahi hoya ?' nA. caherA maLatA Ave che, paNa A loko to sAdA vezamAM che. vaLI pelA baMnenA to vALa paNa keTalA sarasa che !' paNa e viga nahi hoya ? kaho na kaho, paNa mane to e ja lAge che. ema karIe... teo bahAra nIkaLI to sarasa gAvA mATe dhanyavAda ApIe, teo AbhAra mAne to sAcuM ane khoTuM hoya to ApaNe kSamA mAgavI.' ame bahAra nIkaLI rastAne cheDe phUTapAtha pAse UbhA rahyA. teo AvyAM. ame temanA saMgIta mATe khuzAlI vyakta karI dhanyavAda ApyA. teo bolyAM, "oha ! tamane amAro kAryakrama gamyo ! AbhAra tamAro." vAta laMbAvavAno temano irAdo nahoto. eTaluM ja bolyA, "mApha karajo, ame utAvaLamAM chIe. bIjA eka saMgItanA kAryakramamAM amAre tarata pahoMcavAnuM che." ema bolI tyAM UbhelI moTarakAramAM besI teo vidAya thayAM. saMgItanA jalasAmAM raMgaberaMgI pozAkamAM teo kevAM sarasa lAgatAM hatAM. pharI pAchAM bIjA kAryakramamAM pahoMcI teo veza badalaze. be moMghA, mohaka bhADUtI pozAkanI vacce potAnA svAbhAvika gharanA pozAkamAM teo kSiobha anubhavatAM hatAM te spaSTa joI zakAtuM hatuM. kalAkArone je dezamAM Dabala pALI karavI paDatI hoya e dezanI arthavyavasthA nabaLI na kahevAya ? - evo vicAra manamAM AvI gayo. gAiDanI doravaNI pramANe ame badhAM amArI basamAM jaIne beThA ane hoTela para AvyA. thoDA kalAkamAM nAIla nadImAM bhAva, vicAra, paristhiti ityAdinA sAmyavaiSamyanA kevA kevA bhAtIgaLa anubhavo amane thayA ! (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) 196 4 pravAsa-darzana

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27 saharAnA raNamAM (Ijipta) duniyAnuM moTAmAM moTuM raNa te saharA. e raNamAMthI unALAnI bharabapore pasAra thavuM e jevItevI vAta nathI. paraMtu me mahinAnI asahya garamImAM ame saharAnuM raNa kevI rIte oLaMgyuM haze ? ijiptanuM pATanagara kero che. tyAMnA loko potAnA A zaherane "kahArA' (kAhirA) kahe che. briTiza hakUmata daramiyAna kahArAnuM "kero' thaI gayuM hatuM, je Aja divasa sudhI cAlu che. ame kerothI elekjhAnDiyA javAnA hatA. bhUmadhya samudranA kinAre AveluM ijiptanuM e suMdara majAnuM prAcIna baMdara che. amAro kAryakrama karothI savAre nIkaLI elekajhAnDriyA joIne pAchA pharavAno hato. ame pacIseka pravAsIo hatA. amArA mATe ArAmadAyaka basanI vyavasthA karavAmAM AvI hatI. amane kahevAmAM AvyuM hatuM ke elekajhAnDiyA pahoMcatAM cAreka kalAka thaze. mATe rAtre veLAsara jo pAchAM AvI javuM hoya to savAre sAta vAge amAre nIkaLI javuM joIe. ame badhA pravAsIo savAre vahelA UThI, taiyAra thaI hoTela phalAmenkomAMthI nIkaLIne basamAM goThavAyA. DrAivara ane gAiDa yuvatI amArI rAha jotAM basamAM beThAM hatAM. badhAM AvI jatAM basa UpaDI. amArI gAiDe kahyuM, "AjanI elekajhAnDiyAnI TUramAM huM tamArI gAiDa chuM. mAruM nAma nivinA che. eno artha "krisTamasa' thAya che, paraMtu huM saharAnA raNamAM eka 197

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krizciyana nathI, huM muslima chuM. ApaNA DrAivaranuM nAma husena che. te bahu hoziyAra ane anubhavI che. elekajhAnDriyA sudhInuM aMtara 220 kilomITara jeTaluM che. saharAnA raNamAM karavAmAM AvelA navA raste ApaNe jaIzuM. jUno rasto nAIla nadInI pAsenA khetIvADInA vistAromAM AvelAM nAnAM nAnAM gAmaDAMmAMthI pasAra thAya che. te ghaNo lAMbo che. temAM samaya paNa ghaNo lAge che. keTalAka samayathI, varlDa baeNnkanI sahAyathI, raNamAM A navo saLaMga, sIdho rasto ka2vAmAM Avyo che. vAhano mATe AvavA-javAnA mArga bAju bAjumAM paNa judA judA che. elekajhAnDriyA pahoMcatAM cAreka kalAka ApaNane thaI jaze. basanI saphara lAMbI che. eTale tamArAmAMthI jene vacce thoDIka UMgha kheMcI levI hoya tene te kheMcI levA mATe anukULatA raheze.' tyAM to gAiDane aTakAvIne amArAmAMthI keTalAka atyutsAhI pravAsIo tarata vacce bolI UThyA, 'nA, nA. ame UMghavA nathI AvyA. ame to badhuM jovA ane samajavA AvyA chIe. ame to A pravAsanI bahu utsukatAthI rAha jotA hatAM.' gAiDe kahyuM, 'vAha ! bahu ja sarasa ! tamArA utsAhathI mAro utsAha paNa vadhI gayo che. elekajhAnDriyAnI TUra vize tamAre je kaMI prazno pUchavA hoya te ni:saMkoca pUchajo. mane e gamaze. pahelAM huM tamane amArA deza ijipta vize keTalIka mAhitI ApIza.' gAiDe tyAra pachI ijiptanI prAcIna saMskRti, pirAmiDo, mamI, videzIonAM AkramaNo vagere vize rasaprada mAhitI ApI. ijipta bhaugolika dRSTie moTo deza che. paraMtu emAMthI Azare cAra-pAMca TakA jeTalA pradezamAM ja lokono vasavATa che; te paNa ghaNuMkharuM nAIla nadInA baMne kAMThe. ijiptanI lagabhaga paMcANu TakA jamIna raNa che. nAIlanA pazcima kinArAnuM raNa te saharAnuM raNa che. pUrva kAMThAnA raNane sAInAInuM raNa kahevAmAM Ave che. duniyAmAM ghaNIkharI nadIo pUrvathI pazcima dizAmAM ke pazcimathI pUrva dizAmAM vahe che. paraMtu nAIla nadI eka evI che ke je dakSiNa dizAmAMthI uttara dizAmAM vahe che. tenuM kAraNa e che ke ijiptanA uttara bhAgamAM Avelo saharAno raNavistAra nIcANavALo che. keTaleka ThekANe to te dariyAnI sapATI karatAM so-baso phUTathI vadhu nIco che. nAIla nadImAM bAre mAsa pANI rahe che. ethI nadInA kAMThAvistAramAM 198 * pravAsa-darzana

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sArI khetI thAya che. tyAM gAmo vaselAM che. nAIla nadI bhUmadhya samudrane jyAM maLe che e nadIno mukha-vistAra (Delta) bahu phaLadrupa hovAthI tyAM ThIka ThIka vastI che. elekajhAnDriyA baMdara e vistAramAM AveluM che. kero zahera choDIne amArI basa AgaLa cAlavA lAgI. rastAnI najIka baMne bAjue koIka koIka makAna dekhAtAM rahyAM, paNa baMne bAju dUra dUra kSitija sudhI mAtra raNa hatuM. unALAmAM saharAnuM raNa jotAM ja jhaMkhanAnA pratIka tarIke kavi suMdarame karelA enA upayogavALI paMktio yAda AvI gaI : tane meM jhaMkhI che, yugothI dhIkhelA, prakhara saharAnI tarasathI. saharAnuM raNa AphrikA khaMDanA uttara bhAgamAM, pazcimamAM rAtA samudrathI zarU karI pUrvamAM eTalAnTika mahAsAgara sudhI te Azare paMcotera lAkha corasa kilomITara jeTalA vistAramAM patharAyeluM che. AphrikAnA dezo ijipta, sudAna, libiyA, TyuniziyA, aljiriyA, morokko vageremAM te phelAyeluM che ema kahevA karatAM saharAnA raNamAM A badhA dezonI rAjakIya sImA AMkavAmAM AvI che ema kahevuM vadhu yogya che. AphrikAnA pUrva kAMThAthI pazcima kAMThA sudhI saLaMga pAMca hajAra kilomITara jeTaluM te lAMbuM che. saharAnuM AkhuM raNa te mAtra retInuM raNa nathI. keTalAka vistAromAM te khaDakonuM baneluM che; keTalAka vistAramAM te patharALa che; vaLI amuka vistAramAM temAM navathI dasa hajAra phUTa UMcA, vanaspatirahita sUkA parvato AvelA che. jUnA vakhatathI saharAnA raNamAM eka sthaLethI pAsenA bIje sthaLe javAnA najIka najIkanA rastAo thayelA che. rakhaDu jAtinA loko UMTa upara gharavakharI ane kuTuMbanA sabhyone laI, jyAM pANI ane jhADapAnane lIdhe ThaMDaka hoya evA sthaLe mukAma kare che. evAM sthaLone raNadvIpa (Oasis) kahe che. evI rIte eka raNadvIpathI bIjA raNadvIpa sudhInI saphara karI, mukAma karI, pharI AgaLa saphara vadhAranAra vaNajhArA jevI jAtinA loko AphrikAnA saharAnA raNamAM haju paNa che. alabatta, raNamAM, evA vistAro paNa che ke jyAM pahoMcavuM eTale motane notaravA barAbara gaNAya. divase atizaya garamI, rAtre atizaya ThaMDI, ghaDIkamAM mANasane dATI de evI UDatI retInAM vAvAjhoDAM, vATamAM khorAka-pANI khUTI javAM vagere prakAranAM saharAnA raNamAM eka 199

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bhayaMkara jokhamo ochAM nathI. have to AkhuM saharAnuM raNa khUMdAI gayuM che. bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate saharAnA raNamAM paNa yuddha khelAyuM hatuM. helikaoNpTaranI sagavaDa pachI to AvaDA moTA raNamAM paNa koI jagyA vaNazodhI, vaNamApI rahI nathI. pAMca hajAra kilomITara lAMbA saharAnA raNamAM amAre to phakta baso vIsa kilomITaranuM aMtara raNanA eka khUNAmAM eka cheDAthI bIjA cheDA sudhInuM kApavAnuM hatuM. saharAnA raNamAMthI pasAra thavuM eTalo anubhava paNa amArA mATe romAMcaka hato. rasto nAkanI dAMDIe sIdho cAlyo jato hato. AvA nirjana raNavistAramAM rasto karavAno hoya to tene vaLAMka ApavAnI jarUra UbhI na thAya. eTale basa to pANInA relAnI jema sIdhI saDasaDATa cAlI jatI hatI. rastAnI baMne bAju karelI vADamAM raNapradezamAM UgI zake evI vanaspati vAvavAmAM AvI hatI. thora (Cactus)nA prakAranI vanaspatine pANI khAsa na joIe. havAmAMthI ja te bheja grahaNa karI le ane sUryaprakAzamAMthI poSaNa meLavI le. pAMdaDAM vagaranA mAtra DAMkhaLAvALA nAnA nAnA choDa paNa rastAnI baMne bAju vAvelA hatA. kyAMka sAva nAnAM nAnAM vRkSo paNa hatAM. moTAM ghaTAdAra vRkSonuM to raNamAM kyAMya nAmanizAna jovA na maLe. amArI gAiDe kahyuM ke 'A raNapradezane khIlavavA amArI sarakAra taraphathI evI yojanA karavAmAM AvI che ke jene jamIna joItI hoya tene najIvA bhAve te ApavAmAM Ave. vaLI dasa varSanA hapte te rakama bharavAnI rahe. paNa zarata eTalI ke te lenAre jamInamAM khetIvADI karavI joIe. khAsa to drAkSa, khajUra vagere raNamAM thAya tevI vanaspati ugADI zakAya. dara varSe tenI pragatinuM sarakArI vahIvaTItaMtra nirIkSaNa kare che. nAIla nadImAMthI nahera dvArA ahIM pANI lAvI zakAya che. athavA amuka phaLadrupa vistAramAM TyUbavela dvArA paNa pANI meLavI zakAya che. tema chatAM tame joI zakazo ke bahu ochA loko raNamAM AvyAM che. vaLI A pradezamAM jeo kArakhAnAM karavA icche teone paNa sastA dare jamIna ApavAmAM Ave che. teone mATe evI zarata che ke jo teo kArakhAnAnA vistAramAM kAmadAro mATe eka masjida bAMdhe to teone karaverAmAMthI mukti ApavAmAM Ave. koI koI sthaLe tamane be masjido sAva pAse pAse jovA maLe to ema na samajavuM ke amArA loko bahu dhArmika thaI gayA che, paNa 200 * pravAsa-darzana

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samajavuM ke be kArakhAnAM bAju bAjumAM AvelAM che." aDadhe raste virAmasthAna AvyuM. ene lIluMchama banAvavAmAM AvyuM che. resTorAM, dukAno, peTrolapampa, pArkiMga vistAra, karmacArIo mATenAM raheThANanAM makAno vagerenI racanA tyAM karavAmAM AvI che. raNamAM hariyALA raNadvIpa jevI e jagyA hatI. aDadho kalAka ame tyAM rokAyA. bhUkha lAgI hatI eTale dareke potapotAnI anukULatA mujaba khAdhuM pIdhuM. basanA DrAivare virAmasthAnamAM AMTo mAryo. eka kapa kaoNphI pIdhI ane pAcho AvIne te basamAM potAnI jagyAe besI gayo. bhUkha lAge eTalo TAima thaI gayo hovA chatAM teNe kazuM khAdhuM nahi. basamAM AvIne ame DrAivarane amArA nAstAmAMthI magajanA lADu, khAkharA, gAMThiyA, seva vagere ApyAM. DrAivare e samita, AbhAra sahita svIkAryA ane kahyuM ke pote pachIthI khAze. DrAivara svastha citte zAMtithI basa calAvato hato. potAnI sAme eNe eka khokhAmAM pruiMga-gama, cokaleTa vagere rAkhyAM hatAM. bIjA eka khokhAmAM sigareTa hatI. prAivara thoDI thoDI vAre vyuiMga-gama cagaLyA karato hato. vacce vacce sigareTa saLagAvI pIto hato. vaLI te ijiptanAM lokagItonI Tepa vagADyA karato. amArI gAiDe kahyuM ke DrAivara keromAM ghaNe dUra rahe che. savAranA pAMca vAge UThI, kaMpanImAM jaI basa laIne te AvI pahoMcyo che. AvA raste kaMTALo na Ave te mATe te lokagIto vagADe che." amArI basa have AgaLa cAlI rahI hatI. bahAra dUra dUra sudhI baMne bAju aphATa raNa patharAyeluM hatuM. TheTha kSitija sudhI eka vRkSa to zuM, ghAsanuM taNakhaluM paNa dekhAtuM na hatuM. have jovA-samajAvavAnuM kazuM rahyuM nahotuM. gAIDe be-traNa vAra pUchayuM ke koIne kaMI prazna pUchavo che ? paNa prazna pUchavAno koIne utsAha have rahyo na hato. bahAra sakhata garamI hatI, paraMtu basamAM erakanDizananI sArI ThaMDaka hatI. keTalAke to bahArathI taDako na Ave te mATe paDadA paNa pADI dIdhA hatA. basamAM AchA aMdhArA sahita majAnI zItaLatA prasarI gaI hatI. vahelA UThelA pravAsIonAM zramita citta, AhAra pachI zAMta thaI gayAM hatAM. ekasarakhI sIdhI gatie cAlatI basamAM eka pachI ekanI AMkho DhaLavA lAgI hatI. thoDI vAramAM to badhAM jholA khAvA lAgyAM. "ame jovA AvyA chIe, UMghavA nahi evuM kahenArA paNa svapno jovAmAM paDI gayA hatA. pachI to gAiDa yuvatI paNa potAnI beThaka parathI UThI. pahelI sITamAM beThelo huM tenI sAme joIne saharAnA raNamAM jha- 201

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hasyo, kAraNa ke mane thayuM ke te paNa have sUI jaze. mAruM anumAna sAcuM paDyuM. teNe kahyuM, "huM savAre bahu vahelI UThI chuM. chellI sITa khAlI che. tyAM thoDI vAra ArAma karI lauM." badhA pravAsIo UMghI gayA. varSothI moTarakAra calAvavAne kAraNe mane paDelI kudaratI Tevane lIdhe mArI najara satata rastA para hatI. DrAivare zA mATe khAdhuM nahi te have samajAyuM. khAdhA pachI baporanA vakhate, TrAphika vagaranA saLaMga sIdhA raste, koInI sAthe vAta karyA vagara, moTara ke basa calAvavAmAM thAkeluM citta kyAre jhole caDI jAya te kahevAya nahi. DrAivare arIsAmAMthI joyuM ke gAiDa sahita badhAM ja UMghI gayA che. huM DrAivara sAthe izArAthI mArA hAvabhAva vyakta karIne thAya tevI vAta karato, paraMtu amArI vacce vadhu vAtacIta thaI zakatI nahotI kAraNa ke baMnene ekabIjAnI bhASA AvaDatI nahotI. kalAka jeTalo samaya pasAra thaI gayo. have dUra dUra kSitija upara zaheranAM makAno dekhAvA lAgyAM. DrAivare acAnaka jorathI haoNrna vagADyuM. rastAmAM vacce kazuM AvatuM nahotuM to pachI horna vagADavAnI jarUra zI ? pachI samajAvyuM ke eNe haoNrna gAiDane uThADavA vagADyuM hatuM. gAiDa UThI gaI. DrAivara pAsenI potAnI sITamAM AvIne te besI gaI. hAthamAM mAika laI teNe badhAMne jAgRta thavA vinaMtI karI. gAIDe AvI rahelA elekajhAnDriyA zaherano itihAsa kahyo. samrATa elekajhAnDare I.sa. pUrve 332mAM A zahera vasAvyuM hatuM. ame elekajhAnDriyA pahoMcyA. gherA vAdaLI raMganA pANIvALA bhUmadhya samudranA kinAre AveluM e ramaNIya baMdara che. bhUmadhyanA sAme kinAre yuropamAMthI grIka, romana ane turka lokoe AkramaNo karyA hatAM. elekajhAnDiyAe ghaNI caDatI-paDatI joI che. ame ahIM emphi thiyeTara, kaTAkomba, popeIno staMbha, dIvAdAMDI, rAjamahela vagere joyAM. sAMja paDavA AvI eTale ame kero pAchA pharavA nIkaLyA. dariyAkinAre kSitija upara sUryAsta jovAnI jema eka majA che, tema dUra dUra sudhI vistarelI retInA raNamAM kSitija upara sUryAsta jovAnI paNa eka majA che. aDadhe raste ame AvyA tyAM to sUryAsta thaI gayo. vacce virAmasthAnamAM cA-kaoNphI pIne ame AgaLa cAlyA. keronI sarahada dekhAvA lAgI eTale DrAivare gADI calAvatAM calAvatAM nAsto khAvAnuM zarU karyuM. have jhokAM Ave evuM jokhama rahyuM nahotuM. 202 pravAsa-darzana

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elekajhAnDriyA ane saharAnA raNano pravAsa pUro karI ame kero pAchA AvI pahoMcyA. duniyAmAM mAnavavastInuM pramANa chellA traNa-cAra dAyakAmAM ghaNuM ja vadhI gayuM che. ema kahevAya che ke A rIte jo vastI vadhatI jaze to ekavIsamI sadInA aMta pahelAM dasa-bAra abajathI paNa vadhu vastI thaI jaze. vartamAna samayamAM eziyAnA ghaNA dezo atizaya gIca vastIvALA che. AMkaDAzAstrIo kahe che ke duniyAnI vastI vadhAre che. paraMtu pRthvI upara jeTalI jamIna che enA pramANamAM sarerAza vastI vadhAre nathI. saharAno raNapradeza, osTreliyAno raNapradeza, gobIno raNapradeza tathA bIjAM nAnAMmoTAM raNo jo phaLadrupa banAvI zakAya ane mAnavastIne tyAM vasAvI zakAya to vastIno prazna ghaNo haLavo banI jAya. vaijJAnika saMzodhano, Arthika sahakAra ane rAjadvArI dUraMdezI dhAre to raNone phaLadrupa banAvavAmAM ghaNo phALo ApI zake. paraMtu bIjI bAju "amane raNa posAze, paNa bahAranAM bIjAM rASTronI vastI nahi posAya. amane garIbI posAze paNa amArI AnuvaMzika sAMskRtika lAkSaNikatAno lopa nahi poSAya' - evI vRtti jyAM sudhI duniyAnAM judAM judAM rASTronI raheze, tyAM sudhI vastIno prazna sahelAIthI haLavo nahi thAya. ekavIsamI sadInA aMta sudhImAM mAnavajAte A dizAmAM keTalI pragati karI haze te koNa kahI zake ? (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) saharAnA raNamAM traH 203

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28 khArTama (sudAna) AphrikAmAM bhaugolika dRSTie moTAmAM moTA rASTra sudAnanA pATanagara khAdgama (Khartoom)nuM nAma to bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate 194445mAM sAMbhaLyuM hatuM, paraMtu te kAyamane mATe yAda rahI gayuM che. bIjI eka karuNa ghaTanAnI mAhitIne kAraNe. tyAre amAre kolejamAM AMgla lekhaka liTana sTrecInuM eka pustaka pAThyapustaka tarIke cAlatuM hatuM. emAM janarala cArlsa gArDananuM caritra ApavAmAM AvyuM che. muMbaInI jheviyarsa kaoNlejamAM tyAre amArA aMgrejI viSayanA prAdhyApaka pro. pinTo janarala gorDananuM jIvanacaritra rasapUrvaka samajAvatA. emAM chelle janarala gorDananA jIvananA karuNa aMtano citAra ApavAmAM Avyo che. khATuMmanA pAdaramAM janarala gorDananuM zaba eka jhADanI DALa para keTalAka divasa sudhI laTakatuM rahyuM hatuM. e ghaTanAnuM tAdRza citra tyArathI smRtipaTa para aMkita thaI gayuM hatuM. AjhAdI pahelAMnA e amArA divasomAM gorA briTiza lokonuM prabhutva hatuM. gorA lokoe, khAsa karIne amerikAmAM keTalAye kALA gulAmone laTakAvIne bALI nAkhyA (Lynch) che, paraMtu kALA lokoe eka gorA janaralane A rIte jhADa para laTakAvyA hoya evI bIjI koI ghaTanA banI hoya evuM sAMbhaLyuM nathI. eTale ja khATuMmanuM nAma yAda rahI gayuM che. bIjA vizvayuddha pahelAM bhAratanI jema ijipta upara briTananuM prabhutva hatuM. bhAratanI jema ijiptamAM lazkarI vaDA adhikArIo aMgrejo rahetA. 204 pravAsa-darzana

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ogaNIsamI sadInA AraMbhamAM janarala cArlsa gorDana ijiziyana sainyamAM sarasenAdhipati hatA. te vakhate ijipta sudAna para AkramaNa karI vijaya meLavyo hato. tyAra pachI janarala gorDananI sudAnanA gavarnara janarala tarIke nimaNUka thaI hatI, sudAna upara rAjadvArI sattA jamAvyA pachI aMgrejoe jema bIjA pradezomAM karyuM tema sudAnamAM paNa khristI dharmano pracAra karyo ane aneka musalamAnane vaTalAvIne khristI banAvyA. AthI ja sudAnamAM khristI-virodha vaMToLa Ubho thayo. ogaNIsamI sadanA uttarArdhamAM mAhadI nAmanA eka muslima dharmanetAe khristIo sAme moTI jehAda upADI ane teoe janarala gorDananI hatyA karI. emanA zabane lokone batAvavA mATe khArTUmamAM laTakAvavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. khristI ane musalamAna vacceno saMgharSa sudAnamAM Aja divasa sudhI cAlyA karyo che. mAhadIe sudAnamAM sattA meLavI tyAra pachI ghaNA khristIone pAchA musalamAna banAvavAmAM AvyA. eTale sudAnanA uttara bhAgamAM hAla musalamAnonI bahumatI che ane dakSiNa sudAnamAM khristIonI. I.sa. 1898mAM aMgrejoe IjiptanI madadathI pharI sudAna upara kabajo meLavyo ane 1956 sudhI rAjya karyuM. 1956mAM svataMtra thayelA sudAnamAM vAraMvAra sattApalaTo thayo. daramiyAna musalamAno tathA khristIo vacce AMtaravigraha thayo ane hajAro mANaso mAryA gayA ane hajAro apaMga thayA. 1970 pachI kaMIka sthira sarakAra kAma karavA lAgI che, paraMtu prajAnI Arthika avadazA evI ja rahI che. uttara AphrikAmAM kero pachI bIjA naMbaranuM moTuM zahera te khATma, paNa khATuMma eTale jANe moTuM gAmaDuM. kero jevI ronaka tyAM jovA na maLe. garIbI ane bekArInuM pramANa tyAM ghaNuM che. jyAM juo tyAM mANaso navarA beThelA hoya. sarakArI kacerIomAM kAmakAja kIDI vege cAle ane rAha jotA besI rahevuM paDe. AthI ja koIka amerikana pravAsIe ciDAIne kahyuM hatuM ke pArTIma eTale "duniyAno moTAmAM moTo veiTiMga rUma'. (joke khATuMmane zaramAve evAM bIjAM zahero paNa che.) sudAnamAM videzanA nAgarikonA praveza upara hAla bahu niyaMtraNa che. vijhA jaladI maLe nahi. maLyA pachI paNa takalIpha ghaNI. alabatta, sthAnika oLakhANathI kAma jaladI thAya. tyAM doDhaso varSathI gujarAtIono vasavATa che ane sarakArI taMtramAM "buniyA' (inDiyana mATe "vANiyA' uparathI)ne mATe bhAre mAna che. khATuMma ja 205

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sudAnamAM page apaMga garIba mANaso ghaNA che. teone maphata "jayapura phUTa' besADI ApavAnI pravRtti khAdgamanI roTarI klaba dvArA, muMbaInI roTarI klaba ane "helpa laeNnDikepa' vagere saMsthAnA sahakArathI calAvavAmAM Ave che. e najare nihALavA ane vizeSa pravRttio aMge vicAraNA karavA mATe "helpa henDikepa'nA TrasTIo zrI mahendrabhAI mahetA ane zrI manubhAI saMgharAja kA khATuMma jatA hatA tyAre emanI sAthe joDAvAno avasara mane paNa sAMpaDyo hato. amArI sAthe "jayapura phUTanA eka Tekaniziyana zrI nAthusiMga paNa hatA, jeo tyAM cAra-cha mahinA rokAIne sthAnika kAryakartAone Tekanikala tAlIma ApavAnA hatA. khATmamAM e mATe eka varkazopanI sthApanA karavAmAM AvelI che. nAirobIthI vimAnamAM ame khAdgama pahoMcyA. amArA vijhAnI vyavasthA khASTramamAM AvelI amerikana oNila kaMpanImAM kAma karatI eka hoziyAra amerikana mahilAe karI ApI hatI. amArA zrI mahendrabhAInI te paricita, roTeriyana ane jayapura phUTanI pravRtti sAthe saMkaLAyelI che. amAro utAro khATmanI hoTela hilTanamAM hato. hoTela sarasa hatI, paNa anyatra jovA maLe tevI A hilTana nahotI. pote thoDI bhUkhe maratI hoya evuM lAge. jyAM pravAsIo ja bahu AvatA na hoya, AvavA devAmAM na AvatA hoya tyAM hoTela bicArI zuM kare ? enI cAlamAM karakasara jaNAtI hatI. hoTelamAM pahoMcatAM ja sthAnika roTeriyana mitro ane gujarAtI samAjanA keTalAka AgevAno maLavA AvI gayA. teonI sAthe judA judA kAryakramonI vicAraNA thaI. bIje divase savAre ame khArTUmamAM pharavA nIkaLyA. naisargika dRSTie khAdgama eka ramaNIya sthaLa che. saikAo pUrve rakhaDu jAtioe vasavATa mATe A sthaLanI bahu aucityapUrvaka pasaMdagI karI hatI. ahIM ithiyopiyAmAMthI nIkaLIne AvatI hyu-bhUrI-nAIla ane vikToriyA sarovaramAMthI nIkaLIne AvatI vhAiTa-zveta-nAIlano saMgama che. ahIMthI te baMne eka thaIne ijiptamAM vahe che. duniyAmAM nAIla eka evI moTI lAMbI nadI che ke je pUrva-pazcimane badale dakSiNamAMthI uttara tarapha vahe che. nAIla nadInA saMgamane kAraNe raNa jevA pradezamAM havAmAnamAM pharaka paDyo che ane AsapAsanI jamIna khetIne lAyaka phaLadrupa banI che. nadInA vaheNanA AkAra uparathI te kALanA AdivAsI lokoe ene nAma ApyuM 206 : pravAsa-darzana

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khATuMma". nAma eTale hAthInI sUMDha. nadIno vaLAMka ahIM hAthInI sUMDha jevo che. AphrikAnA AdivAsIone nAma ApavA mATe hAthI ja yAda Avene ! ahIM nAIlanI baMne bAju zahera vasyuM che. bIjI bAjunA zaherane omaduramAna kahe che. vacce nadI upara pula che. Ama to eka ja moTuM zahera gaNAya, paNa khATma karatAM omaduramAna vadhu sughaDa ane samRddha dekhAya che. vastuta: beThA ghATanAM, mALa vagaranAM aDoaDa jUnAM gharo ane dhULiyA rastA badhe ja che. Azare cha lAkhanI vastIvALA A zaherano jeTalo thavo joIe teTalo vikAsa thayo nathI. jUnI peDhInA mANaso kahe che ke aMgrejonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna je caLakATa khATmamAM hato te hAla nathI rahyo. khATuMmamAM pacaraMgI prajA che. mukhyatve sudAnI loko che. sADA cha phUTa UMcA, zarIre bharAvadAra, goLa moTuM, moTuM kapALa, jADA hoTha, mAthe gUMcaDAvALA kALA vALa, cAmaDI habasI karatAM saheja ochI kALI, lAMbI bAMyano ane eDI sudhIno sapheda jhabhbho, khabhe khesa ane mAthe sapheda pAghaDI (athavA TopI) vagere sudAnIne oLakhavAnAM lakSaNo che. khATuMmamAM Arabo che, habasIo che ane Araba-habasInA mizraNavALI prajA te nubiyAno che. ahIM yuropiyano che, amerikano che, bhAratIya loko che ane cInAo paNa che. jUnA vakhatamAM khATuMmamAM sonuM, hAthIdAMta ane rU-kapAsano mukhya vepAra hato. saikA pahelAM gulAmonuM moTuM bajAra ahIM bharAtuM. have Adhunika vyavasAyo vadhyA che. jamInamAMthI tela nIkaLyuM che. khANamAMthI kAcA hIrA nIkaLyA che. sonAnI khANomAM moTA pAye khodakAma cAlu thayuM che. khANavidyAmAM hoziyAra evA cInAone ahIM vasAvyA che. sAta lAkha jeTalA cInAo traNa-cAra dAyakAthI sudAnamAM AvIne vasyA che. cInIsudAnInI saMmizra prajA paNa cAlu thaI gaI che. AphrikAnAM bIjAM zaheronI jema khATmamAM paNa taDako ghaNo paDe. ughADA mAthe lAMbuM calAya nahi, mAthuM bhamI jAya. loko moTI pAghaDI kema pahere che te samajAvavuM na paDe. taDakAne lIdhe ja khATuMmamAM Thera Thera moTA ghaTAdAra lImaDA ane bIjAM vRkSo jovA maLe che. rAhadArIo, navarA mANaso chAMyaDo zodhatA phare. baporanA vakhate koI vRkSa nIce chAMyaDAmAM koI UbhuM na hoya ema bane nahi. keTalAMya vRkSo nIce khurazI, khATalo, pANInuM khATuMma 9 207

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mATaluM ke koThI hoya. kyAMka sAdhAraNa sthitinI mahilAo sagaDI rAkhI cA banAve ane vece. sudAnI mahilAo sADI jevuM eka ja vastra AkhA zarIre vIMTALe, paNa paganI pAnI sudhI nahi, ghUMTaNa DhaMkAya e rIte pahere. mAthe oDhavAnuM pharajiyAta che. polakuM ghaNuMkharuM AkhI bAMyanuM pahere. sapheda ane kALo e be raMganAM vastro vadhu pracalita che. khAdgama ane omaduramAnamAM jovA jevAM sthaLomAM naeNzanala myujhiyama, mAhidInI kabara, khalIphAnuM myujhiyama, pramukhano mahela, pelesa myujhiyama vagere gaNAvI zakAya. itihAsa ane sAMskRtika avazeSomAM jemane rasa hoya temane vadhAre game, kAraNa ke phrAnsanA sahakArathI thayelA khodakAmamAM aDhI hajAra varSa pahelAMnA prAcIna avazeSo maLyA che. ame thoDuMka joyuM, thoDuMka jatuM karyuM. hoTela hilTanamAM baporanA bhojana vakhate sthAnika roTarI klabanA sabhyone ane gujarAtI samAjanA keTalAka AgevAnone maLavAnuM thayuM. tyAra pachI sudAnanA ArogyapradhAna sAthe amArI mulAkAta goThavAI hatI. jayapura phUTa aMge emane mAhitI apAI. potAnA dezane vinAmUlya jayapura phUTa ane te banAvavA mATenI sAmagrI maLatI hoya to kema na game ? potAnA Arogya khAtA taraphathI badho ja sahakAra ApavAnI temaNe khAtarI ApI. tyAra pachI ame jayapura phUTanA varkazopanI mulAkAta lIdhI. tyAM eka athavA baMne page apaMga banelAM lAcAra strIpuruSonA dayAmaNA caherA joI karuNA Upaje. jayapura phUTathI teonI jiMdagI sudharI jAya, lAcArI ochI thAya, haravApharavAnI zakyatA vadhe. kRtrima paga AzIrvAdarUpa nIvaDe. thoDAM varSomAM traNeka hajAra karatAM vadhu strIpuruSone kRtrima paga besADI ApavAmAM AvyA che. zrI nAthusiMge agAu ahIM eka varSa rahIne sthAnika sudAnI karmacArIone kRtrima paga banAvavAnI tAlIma ApI hatI. A vakhate paNa teo bIjA vadhu mANasone tAlIma ApavAnA che. sAMja paDavA AvI hatI. sUrye potAnI prakharatA ghaTADI ane vAyune zItalatA tathA prasannatA sAthe mokalI Apyo. ame nAIlanA kinAre laTAra mAravAno AnaMda mANyo ane hoTela para pahoMcyA. have amAre khATuMmanA eka jANItA vaDIla zreSThI zrI caMdubhAI pItAMbarane maLavAnuM hatuM. khATuMmamAM ajANyA mANaso potAnI meLe jaldI pahoMcI na zake. koI sAthe joIe. bhASAno prazna, vaLI rastAnAM nAma ke makAnonA naMbara 208 pravAsa-darzana

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jevuM khAsa jaNAyuM nahi. haze to te sarakArI daphataramAM. masjida, moTAM makAna, benka, haoNspiTala, moTI dukAna vagere "mazahura nizAnIthI rastA oLakhAya. rastA khAssA pahoLA ane TrAphika ocho. kyAMka rastA para nAnA maMDapa hoya. sthAnika mitre amane kahyuM ke khATmamAM hola ochA, ane potAno prasaMga potAnA AMgaNAmAM ja maMDapa bAMdhIne goThavAya che. bhAratanAM gAmaDAMonA jevo rivAja ahIM paNa che. varasAdanI anizcitatA na hoya tyAM maMDaponI majhA anokhI che. mitre samajAvyuM ke je maMDapamAM badhI ja TyUbalAITa sapheda hoya tyAM besaNuM-sAdaDI che ema samajavuM. jyAM lagnAdi utsava ke mahephila hoya tyAM TyUbalAiTa raMgaberaMgI hoya (TyUbalAiTanI zodha karanArane AvA upayoganI kalpanA nahi hoya.) khATuMmamAM Azare doDhaso gujarAtI kuTuMbo vase che, paraMtu gujarAtIono judA vistAra hoya evuM nathI. gujarAtI-sudAnI sAthe sAthe rahe che. badhA gujarAtIone sudAnI-arabI bhASA AvaDe che. gujarAtIonAM gharomAM gujarAtanuM ja vAtAvaraNa jovA maLe. teomAM vyavahAranI bhASA paNa gujarAtI ja che. caMdubhAI pItAMbarane maLIne amane atyaMta AnaMda thayo (dAdA pItAMbaranuM nAma temaNe aTaka tarIke rAkhyuM che). teo potAnA vyavasAyamAM to AgaLa vadhelA che ja, paraMtu sudAnamAM rahIne emaNe judA judA dharmono sAro abhyAsa karyo che. teo jAte vaiSNava che. saMskRta bhASAnA jANakAra che. zrImad bhagavadgItA, vedo vagereno abhyAsa karyo che. iMglizamAM temaNe bAIbala vAMcyuM che ane erebikamAM kurAna vAMcyuM che. erebika te jANe emanI bIjI mAtRbhASA che. emano janma ahIM sudAnamAM ja eka nAnA gAmamAM thayelo ane zALAno abhyAsa paNa ahIM ja karelo. emanA pitA jUnAgaDha pAse vaMthalInA. paMdara varSanI vaye, eka jaina vaipArI sAthe, emanA rasoiyA tarIke kAma karavA vahANamAM sudAna AvelA. mudatI nokarIthI AvelA, paNa pachI eTaluM gamyuM ke dezamAM jaI, lagna karIne pAchA sudAnamAM AvIne vasyA ane ghaNAM sagAMone teDAvyAM. caMdubhAInA saMtAno paNa khUba AgaLa vadhelAM che. caMdubhAIe kahyuM ke, "sudAna' zabda "sudda' parathI Avelo che. sudda eTale kAdava, kAdavavALI jamIna. sudAnamAM raNa ane paDatara pradeza ghaNo moTo che. AvaDA moTA sudAnamAM moTAM zahero mAtra pAMca-sAta che ane te badhAM khATuMmathI nAnAM, paNa nAIla nadI sudAnanI vaccethI vahe che. enA khATuMma * 209

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baMne kAMThA paranI jamIna atyaMta phaLadrupa che, eTalI phaLadrupa ke sivila vaoNra vakhate ame amAruM gAma choDIne bhAgyA hatA. pachI bAra mahine jyAre pAchA pharyA tyAre je je jagyAe ame kerInA goTalA nAkhyA hatA tyAM AMbAnAM jhADa potAnI meLe UgI gayAM hatAM." 1979nI AsapAsa pAMceka varSa sudAnamAM bahu kaparo kALa hato. jIvana jarUriyAtanI badhI ja cIjavastuonI, khAdya padArthonI bhAre achata. badhe ja lAMbI lAMbI lAino lAge. kyAreka to aThavADiye vAro Ave. sivila vaoNra vakhate ghaNA puruSo mAryA gayA. strIonuM pramANa pAMca gaNuM vadhI gayuM. eTale ja majUrI karavA AvelA yuvAna cInAone sudAnI strI sAthe lagna karavAnI taka maLI gaI. sudAnamAM muslimonI bahumatI che. islAma deza che. ahIM dhArmika kaTTaratA che. eTale ahIM zarAba pIvAnI manAI che. moTI paMcatAraka hoTelomAM paNa zarAba pIrasI zakAya nahi. dakSiNa sudAnamAM khristI loko che. teone anAja, davA, kapaDAM ApIne pAchA muslima banAvavAnI moTI jhuMbeza cAle che. paNa pachI zarAbano kAyama tyAga karavo paDe eTalA mATe ghaNA khristI loko islAma dharma svIkAratA nathI. sudAnanI bhaugolika sthiti vilakSaNa che. enI eka sarahade rAto samudra che. bAkInI sarahada para ithiyopiyA, kenyA, yugAnDA, phigo, madhya Aphrikana ripablika, cADa, libiyA ane ijipta AvelAM che. ATha paDozI rASTro sAthe sarahada saMbhALavAnuM kaparuM thaI paDe; paraMtu sudAnane koI sarahadI samasyA nathI, kAraNa ke tyAM verAna nirjana pradezomAM vaheMcavAnuM khAsa kazuM nathI. sudAnanI mukhya samasyA te nabaLA arthataMtranI che. phugAvo ghaNo che ane videzI hUMDiyAmaNa bahu ochuM che. pahelAM eka amerikana DaoNlaranA bAra sudAnI pAunDa Apavo paDatA, have aDhI hajAra pAunDa ApavA paDe che. videzI calaNa mATe kAyado mAtra kaDaka nahi, krUra che. koI paNa vyakti pAsethI pAMcaso DaoNlarathI vadhu rakama gerakAyade nIkaLe to ene sIdhI phAMsInI sajA thAya che. atyAra sudhImAM trIseka jaNane phAMsInI sajA apAI gaI che. AvA kaDaka kAyadAo hovA chatAM tyAM corI, lUMTaphATanA gunAonuM pramANa vadhu che. garIbI, bekArI hoya tyAM svAbhAvika rIte ja gunAkhorInuM pramANa vadhu hoya. khATmamAM ame keTalAMka gujarAtI kuTuMbanuM Atithya mANyuM. ahIM 210 = pravAsa-darzana

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keTalAka loko madhyAhna bhojana baporanA bAra ke eka vAge nahi, paNa sAMjanA sADAcAra-pAMca vAge le che. keTalAMka musalamAna kuTuMbomAM sAMjanuM vALa rAtanA dasa-agiyAra-bAra vAge levAya che. ramajhAnanA divaso bahu AkarA na lAge mATe to AvI bhojanaprathA nahi pracalita thaI hoya ne ? khATuMmamAM Azare savAso jaina kuTuMbo che. amArA AgamananA samAcAra maLatAM ja milana-vyAkhyAnanA kAryakramo goThavAI gayA hatA. tyAMnA lokoe paheraveza, bhASA, raheNIkaraNI, rItarivAja, dharmasaMskAra ityAdimAM potAnuM mULa sAcavI rAkhyAM che e joIne AnaMda thayo. khATmamAM kAmakAja pUruM thatAM amAre nAirobI pAchA pharavAnuM hatuM. phlAiTa rAtanA traNa vAgyAnI hatI, paraMtu moDI rAte nIkaLavAnuM salAhabharyuM nahotuM. eTale ame eNrapaoNrTa para bahu vahelA jaIne besI gayA hatA. nAnuM eNrapaoNrTa, giradIno pAra nahi, kAryadakSatA ochI ane sAmAna corAtAM vAra nahi. vimAnamAM potAnI beThakamAM besatAM sudhImAM koI gUMca UbhI na thaI eno rAhatabharyo AnaMda paNa amane ocho nahoto ! (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3) khATma ja 211

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29 bujuburA (buruMDI) sthAnika bhinna bhinna jAtio vaccenI hiMsaka athaDAmaNo TheTha prAcIna kALathI thatI AvI che. ene rokanAra koI sabaLa sattA na hoya to dIrdhakALa kaleAmanI paraMparA cAle che ane bhAre narasaMhAra thAya che. emAM jayaparAjaya jevuM ochuM hoya che. baMne jAtio chevaTe thAkIne jaMpI jAya che. vakhatovakhata AvI yAdavAsthaLIo kyAMka ne kyAMka thatI rahe che. vartamAna kALamAM AvI eka yAdavAsthaLI madhya AphrikAnAM ravAnDA ane buruMDI rAjyanI be AnuvaMzika jAtio vacce cAlI ane pAMceka varSamAM pAMca lAkhathI vadhu mANasonI kalleAma thaI. temanI Azare pAMca TakA jeTalI vastI ochI thaI gaI. A be jAtio te vAtusI (athavA tusI ke tussI) ane vAhatu (athavA hata). tyAM bATavA nAmanI DhiMgujInI jAti paNa che, paraMtu vaimanasya tusI ane hutu loko vacce che. tusI loko kALA, UMcA ane buddhizALI che. hutu loko kALA, ThiMgaNA ane sAdhAraNa buddhizaktivALA che. tusI loko hoziyAra, zrImaMta ane vepAradhaMdhAmAM AgaLa vadhelA che. rAjakAraNamAM teo sakriya che. huta loko garIba che, khetI kare che ane gAya-gheTAM uchere che. ApaNane prathama dRSTie baMne jAtinA loko sarakhA lAge, paNa koIka emanI zArIrika lAkSaNikatAono paricaya karAve to mahAvarAthI ApaNe oLakhI zakIe ke amuka mANasa tusI che ke hutu. teomAMnA keTalAka potAno AdivAsI dharma pALe che. keTalAka 212 = pravAsa-darzana

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islAma dharmanA anuyAyI che ane khristI mizanarIonA dharmapracAra pachI ghaNA khristI thaI gayA che. alabatta, teonAM lokanRtyo, rItarivAja ityAdi sarakhAM ja rahyAM che. ravAnDA ane baraMDImAM Azare sittera TakA loko hata che, paraMtu vepAraudyoga, rAjyavahIvaTa vageremAM varcasva tusI lokonuM che. hutu loko ThaMDA che, paNa vIphare tyAre atyaMta nirdaya banI zake che. keTalAka vakhata pahelAM buruMDImAM cUMTaNImAM jItIne pramukha thanAra hatu netAnuM koIka tusIe khUna karyuM tyAre jhanUne bharAyelA hutu lokoe pAMcacha divasamAM pacAsa hajAra tusI lokone mArI nAkhyA hatA. - buruMDI enI kaoNphI mATe jagatamAM suvikhyAta che, paNa narasaMhAra mATe te eTaluM ja kukhyAta che. baMne jAtinI A saMhAranI lIlAmAM bIjo eka vicAra paNa dRDha thayelo che ke, "mArI nAkhavAnI taka na maLe to mANasane jIvanabhara duHkhI karI nAkho, enA eka athavA baMne paga kApI nAkho.' vaLI, potAnA vistAramAM duzamanone AvatA rokavA mATe temaNe Thera Thera jamInamAM suraMgo goThavelI che. A suraMgo (Land mines)ne kAraNe hajAro loko jakhI thayA che ane potAnA paga gumAvyA che. buruMDImAM page apaMga hoya evA eka lAkhathI vadhu mANaso che. tusI ane hata lokonI A saMhAralIlA aTakAvavA mATe dakSiNa AphrikAnA nelsana maMDelAe daramiyAnagIrI karIne, baMne jAtinA netAone samajAvIne suleha karAvI che ane zAMti-saMrakSaNa mATe potAnA Aphrikana sainiko ApyA che. tyArathI A AMtaravigraha ThaMDo paDyo che, paNa acAnaka kyAreka nAnuM moTuM chamakaluM thatuM rahe che. amAre buruMDI (jUnuM nAma uruMDI)nA pATanagara bujuburA (junuM nAma ujuburA) javuM hatuM, paraMtu jyAM sudhI sthAnika paricita vyakti taraphathI lIlI jhaMDI na maLe tyAM sudhI tyAM javuM salAmatIbharyuM na gaNAya. amArA mitra, bhAratanA nAgarika, be dAyakAthI tyAM jaIne vaselA davAnA vepArI, roTeriyana ronAlDa raskinA taraphathI saMmati maLatAM ame bujuburA javAno kAryakrama goThavyo. mArA mitro roTeriyano mahendrabhAI mahetA ane manubhAI saMgharAjakAe, potAnA TrasTa "helpa henDikepa inTaranezanala'nA upakrame, amerikA, keneDA, muMbaI ane bujuburAnI roTarI kalabanA sahayogathI, buruMDInA vikalAMga mANasone maphata "jayapura phUTa' besADI ApavA tathA anya sAdhano ApavA bujuburAmAM mAnavatAbharyuM kArya upADyuM che ane bujuburA = 213

Page #256
tyAM te mATe eka tAlImakendra paNa sthApyuM che. enI pravRttio najare nihALavAnI amArI bhAvanA hatI. ame muMbaIthI vimAnamAM nIkaLI nAirobI thaIne bujumburA pahoMcyA. bhAI ronAlDa erapaoNrTa para teDavA AvyA hatA. emanI oLakhANa ane suvAsa eTalI badhI ke eNrapaoNrTano eka oNphisara amane dorIne gADImAM besADI gayo ane eka amArA pAsaporTamAM sikkA marAvI Avyo. ronAlDanI sAthe emanA baMgale javA ame eNrapaoNrTathI ravAnA thayA. buruMDI pachAta deza che, paNa enI dharatI rasALa che. ahIMnA havAmAnamAM AvakAranI uSmA che. ahIMnI dharatI para paga mUkatAM jANe ApaNI mAtRbhUmi gujarAtamAM hoIe evo anubhava thayo. gujarAtanA koI mANasane kahyA vagara acAnaka A dharatI para pharato mUkavAmAM Ave ane te samaye AphrikAnA kALA loko kyAMya dekhAtA na hoya to ene ema ja lAge ke pote gujarAtanI dharatI para pharI rahyo che. ahIM AMbAnAM vRkSo para moTI moTI kerIo laTakI rahI che. ahIM ghaTAdAra lImaDA che ane vaDanI vaDavAIono vistAra che. pIpaLo ahIM pavitra vRkSa tarIke pUjAya che. kesarI ane pILAM gulamahora taDakAmAM hasI rahyAM che. sUryakiraNo jhIlIne tulasI praphullita banI che. kareNa ane caMpo phUla kherave che. tADa ane nAriyeLI UMcAI mATe spardhA karI rahyAM che. thora ane papaiyA zAkhA prasarAvI rahyAM che. keLa para keLAMnI lUmo laTakI rahI che. bAramAsInAM phUla vAyu sAthe 2mI rahyAM che. ahIM svaccha AkAzamAMthI relAto taDako ane dharatInI garama dhULa paNa jANe amane gujarAtano ja amane anubhava karAvatAM hatAM. ronAlDanA baMgale pahoMcI, bhojana ane ArAma pachI ame bujumburAmAM pharavA nIkaLyA. AphrikAnA anya pradezonI jema ahIM paNa garIbI ane bekArI ghaNI che. kAma vagaranA lAcAra mANasone AmathI tema AMTA mAratA ke kyAMka ToLe vaLIne UbhelA ke navarA besI rahelA joIne karuNA Upaje che. bujumburAnI vastI hAla cAra lAkha jeTalI che ane samasta buThThuMDI rAjyanI vastI sATha lAkha jeTalI che. lokonI bhASA kuruMDI che, paNa svAhilI badhA ja jANe che. yuropiyanonA zAsana vasavATanA prabhAve ahIM phrenca bhASA badhA bole che ane samaje che. ahIM bhAratIya lokonA sahavAsane lIdhe thoDAMka suzikSita aMgrejI bhASA paNa samaje che. bujumburAnI bhaugolika sthiti lAkSaNika che. TAMgAnikA nAmanA sarova2ne kinAre AveluM e raLiyAmaNuM baMdara che. phaLadrupa jamInane kAraNe 214 * pravAsa-darzana

Page #257
kaoNphI, tamAku, kapAsa vagerenI khetI sArI thAya che. ahIM jamIna sapATa che. bIje cheDe nAnA DuMgaro che. vAtAvaraNa AMkhane ThAre evuM hariyALuM che. varasAdanI mosama varasamAM be vAra hoya che. baso varSa pahelAM gorA khristI dharmapracArako ane jarmana sainiko A vistAramAM AvyA te pahelAM paNa bujuburA vepAradhaMdhAthI dhamadhamatuM baMdara hatuM. AphrikAnA bIjA naMbaranA sarovara TAMgAnikAnA kinAre TAMjhAniyA, jhAMbiyA, koMgo, ravAnDA ane buruMDInAM rAjyo vaselAM che. madhyakALamAM jaLamArge vyavahAra vadhu cAlato ane baMdaro vikasatAM rahetAM. bujuburA ane pAse Avela ujIjI baMdarano vikAsa e rIte thayelo. tyAre ahIM vecavAnI eka mahattvanI sAmagrI kaI hatI te jANo cho ? e hatI gulAmo. ahIM gulAmonuM moTuM bajAra bharAtuM. tyAre nANAMnuM calaNa AvyuM nahotuM. cIja-vastuo adalAbadalI (Barter System) thatI. eka gulAma kharIdavo hoya to badalAmAM hAthIdAMta, mIThuM, mAchalI, gAyagheTAM, anAja ke tela ApavAM paDatAM. tyAre Araba musalamAna vepArIonuM ahIM bahu jora hatuM. sarovaramAM baMdaro vacce vahANo dvArA avarajavara cAlu rahetI, eTale baMdaronI vasatimAM pacaraMgIpaNuM hatuM. ahIM ruMDI, vIrA, gonI, bAvarI, nyAsA, hAyA, sukamA, yAo, korDa ityAdi paMdareka judI judI jAtinA loko AvIne vasyA hatA. ekalA apariNIta yuvAno vepArArthe AvatA ane vakhata jatAM sthAnika kanyA sAthe lagna karIne ahIM ja vasavATa karatA. bujumbarAnuM aitihAsika mahattva paNa che, kAraNa ke je khristI dharmapracArako (mizanarIo) A pradezamAM AvyA temAMnA eka hatA suprasiddha sAhasika zodhasapharI DeviDa liviMsTana (1813- 1873). teo skaoNTalaeNnDanA vatanI hatA. vidyAbhyAsa karI teo dAktara thayA hatA, paraMtu tabIbI vyavasAya choDIne teo carcamAM mizanarI thavA mATe joDAI gayA hatA. temanI icchA cIna javAnI hatI, paraMtu uparIoe temane dharmapracAra mATe madhya AphrikAmAM mokalyA hatA. temano jIva sAhasika pravAsIno hato. temaNe A pradezomAM ghaNI zodhakhoLa karI potAnA ahevAlo lakhyA hatA. potAnA mAyALu svabhAvane lIdhe teo AphrikanomAM lokapriya thaI gayA hatA. sthAnika bhASA teo bolatA. aneka lokone emaNe khristI banAvyA hatA. temanI icchA AphrikA choDI pAchA skaoNTalaeNnDa javAnI nahotI. pachIthI carca sAthe emano patravyavahArano saMparka chUTI gayo hato. eTale carcane ciMtA thaI ke liviMsTana kyAM che ane jIve che ke nahi. henrI sTensI bujuburA - 215

Page #258
nAmanA patrakAra emanI bhALa meLavavA AphrikA AvI pahoMcyA. temaNe liviMgsTanane bujumburA pAse ujIjImAM zodhI kADhyA. baMne bujumburA AvIne sAthe rahyA hatA ane TAMgAnikA sarovaramAM sAthe saphara karI hatI. sTenlI pAchA pharyA ane liviMgsTane AphrikAmAM ja deha choDyo hato. gorA pAdarIonI jema jarmana sainiko A pradezamAM AvyA ane temaNe rAjyasattA jamAvI, temaNe 'jarmana IsTa AphrikA' nAmanA rAjyanI sthApanA karI. lagabhaga so varSa temaNe phuvAnDA-ulTuMDI para rAjya karyuM. pahelA vizvayuddhamAM jarmanIno parAjaya thatAM lIga oNpha nezanse bAjumAM kA~gomAM rAjya karatA phrAnsa ane beljiyamane A nAnAM rAjyonuM rakhevALuM soMpyuM. eTale ruvAnDA-uruDInI sattAvAra bhASA phrenca thaI ane calaNa 'phrAnkA'nuM cAlu thayuM. 1962mAM 2vAnDA-ulTuMDI be alaga alaga svataMtra prajAsattAka rASTra-2vAnDA ane buruMDI thayAM, svataMtratA maLI, paNa garIbI ane bhUkhamaro evAM ja rahyAM, emAM vaLI jAtivigrahe baMnene pAyamAla karI nAkhyAM. baruMDI-bujumburAmAM loko garIba che eTaluM ja nahi, mAnasika rIte pachAta paNa che. eno dAkhalo ApatAM ronAlDe kahyuM, 'mArI dukAne loko davA levA Ave che. yuropa-amerikAnI davA ane vecIe chIe. eka vakhata ame e ja davAo bhAratathI magAvI, paraMtu loko davAnAM khokhAMnAM kada ane eno raMga joIne davA le. suzikSita lokane davA vize samajAvIe ane vaMcAvIe. ene khAtarI thAya, to paNa cAra ghaNI moMghI yuropanI davA ja kharIde, paNa bhAratanI davAne aDe nahi.' vaLI ronAlDe kahyuM, 'pacAsa TakAthI vadhu chokarAo zALAmAM bhaNavA jatA nathI. mAbApane posAtuM nathI ane darakAra paNa nathI. eTale chokarAo sAtaATha varSanA thatAM pitAnI sAthe khetImAM ke majUrInA kAme lAgI jAya che. jemanI pAse evI sagavaDa na hoya te bekAra rakhaDe che.' bujumburAmAM betraNa mALavALAM makAno ochAM ane navAM makAno paNa ochAM. AkAza cArebAju khulluM dekhAya. pharatAM pharatAM ame TAMgAnikA sarovaranA kinAre pahoMcyA, tyAM laTAra mArI, ghare bhojana karI ame nidrAdhIna thayA. bIje divase ame 'jayapura phUTa'nA kendranI mulAkAta lIdhI. sthAnika roTarI kalabanA sahakArathI tathA bhAratanA TrasTa taraphathI A kendra calAvavAmAM Ave che. bhAratanA Teniziyanoe ahIM rahIne sthAnika Teniziyanone tAlIma ApI che. atyAra sudhImAM be hajAra apaMga 216 * pravAsa-darzana

Page #259
strIpuruSone paga maphata besADI ApavAmAM Avyo che. alabatta dUranA loko asalAmatInA Darane lIdhe jvalle ja Ave che. bapore bhojana vakhate be gujarAtI yuvAnono paricaya thayo. AnaMda ane zAlIna baMne bhAIo che ane gujarAtI sAruM bole che. pote kacchI bhATiyA che ne gharamAM badhA kacchI bole che. emanA dAdA savAso varSa pahelAM bujuburAmAM AvIne vaselA. tyArathI temanuM kuTuMba bujuburAmAM che. baMne bhAIoe keneDAmAM rahIne vidyAbhyAsa karyo, paraMtu tyAMnA jIvanadhoraNathI AkarSAyA vinA pAchA bujuburAmAM ja AvIne rahyA che ane potAnA pitAnA vyavasAyamAM sArI rIte joDAI gayA che. huM muMbaI yunivarsiTIno nivRtta prAdhyApaka chuM evo ronAlDa paricaya ApatAM AnaMda tarata ja hiMdu maMdiramAM sAMje mAruM vyAkhyAna goThavyuM. gAmamAM aDhIso jeTalA gujarAtI che. badhAne aDadhA kalAkamAM phonathI samAcAra pahoMcADI devAyA. - sAMje hiMdu maMdiramAM gujarAtIone maLavAnuM thayuM. bujuburAmAM doDhaso varSathI vasavATa che, paNa bhASA, paheraveza, raheNIkaraNI, dhArmika-sAmAjika utsavo vageremAM temaNe potAnuM asalI svarUpa jALavI rAkhyuM che. sabhAmAM meM tathA mArA mitroe prAsaMgika vaktavyo rajU karyA. sabhA pachI eka bhAI maLyA. pote jaina che. potAnA baMgalAmAM gharaderAsara che. tyAM darzana mATe AvavA kahyuM. javAnuM mana thayuM. jaIne joyuM to AnaMdavibhora thaI gayA. baMgalAnI bAjumAM sarasa moTuM maMdira karyuM che. DuMgaranI Toca para AlIzAna baMgalo aMdarathI paNa keTalo vizALa ane suMdara sajAvaTavALo ! emaNe kahyuM ke emanA pitAzrI bhAratamAM mahine trIsa rUpiyAnI nokarI karatA hatA. te choDIne bujuburAmAM AvavAnuM sAhasa karyuM. bhAgya palaTAyuM ane ghaNuM dhana kamAyA, paNa dharmakaraNI sAcavI rAkhI che. darzana, sAmAyika, pratikramaNa, covihAra, ityAdimAM teonI custatA joIne emane mATe amane bahu mAna thayuM. bujuburAmAM daseka jaina kuTuMbo che. vAra-tahevAre badhAM ja emanA baMgale Ave che ane kAryakramomAM sahabhAgI bane che. bujuburAmAM gujarAtanI sAMskRtika AbohavA paNa sparzI jAya evI che. ApaNane ema thAya ke duniyAnA kevA aMtariyALa pradezomAM jaIne gujarAtIo vaselA che ! bIje divase goThavelA kAryakrama pramANe ame badhe pharyA. dUranA vistAromAM javAmAM salAmatI nathI ema amane kahevAmAM AvyuM. sAMje ronAlDanA baMgale badhA roTeriyano mATe milana ane bhojanano kAryakrama bujurbArA eka 217

Page #260
goThavAyo hato. Aphrikana, yuropiyana ane eziyana ema traNe khaMDanA kALAgorA ane ghauMvarNA mitro padhAryA hatA. jamaNa pachI judI judI maMDaLImAM bhAtabhAtanA viSayo para vAto cAlI. AvA milanamAM javAnI utAvaLa na hoya. moDI rAta sudhI pArTI cAle, paraMtu vAtacIta cAlatI hatI tyAM koIka bolyuM, "are, agiyAra vAgI gayA.' agiyAra ? to UThIe badhA !' be miniTamAM to badhA vAta paDatI mUkIne UbhA thaI gayA. darekanA pagamAM utAvaLa hatI. bIjI be miniTamAM to potapotAnI gADImAM besI sau ravAnA thaI gayA. ame AzcaryathI joI rahyA. kema badhA doDyA ? amArAthI sahaja puchAI gayuM. ronAlTe kahyuM, "rAtano karakyuM che mATe." karaphyu ? paNa kaMI ramakhANa vagara.' hA, ahIM varSothI ema ja cAle che. bujuskurA hAla salAmata che. to paNa karaphyu jarUrI che. bahAragAma to aMdhAruM thatAM saMcArabaMdhI thaI jAya che. ghaNAM varSathI A pramANe cAle che. salAmatI mATe e anivArya ame vicAre caDI gayA. ravAnDA ane buruMDI keTalA badhA nAnA nAnA deza che. chatAM AnuvaMzika athaDAmaNone kAraNe satata saMcArabaMdhImAM jIvatI prajAno vikAsa kevI rIte thAya ? vikAsanI vAta to dUra rahI. "jayapura phUTa'nI vAta karIe to ApanArane maphata paga besADI ApavA che ane lenArane maphata joIe che, paNa vidhinI vicitratA kevI che ke salAmatInA abhAve ApanArA bujuburAnI bahAra jaI zakatA nathI ane lenArA AvI zakatA nathI. garIbI ane bhUkhamaro, zArIrika vikalatA ane salAmatInI ciMtA, jANe abhizApa hoya tema, prajAne kevI kacaDI nAkhe che ! (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3) 218 : pravAsa-darzana

Page #261
WE AIsalenDamAM viDeya TApu para 1774mAM baMdhAyelA aitihAsika carcamAM vizva zAMti mATe navakAra maMtra bolatAM ramaNabhAI, tArAbahena ane maMgaLAbahena mahetA. AIsalenDamAM ramaNabhAI, tArAbahena, maMgaLAbahena. pAchaLa garama pANInA jharaNAMthI nIkaLatI varALa dekhAya che.

Page #262
norve'nA sToramAM ramaNabhAI norvemAM AdivAsIo sAthe

Page #263
phrenkapharTamAM vRddha veiTare zAkAhArI vAnagI banAvI premathI jamADyA. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'mAM 'veiTaranuM vAtsalya' prasaMga) grIsa - ethensamAM vidyArthIo sAthe.

Page #264
1977mAM laMDanamAM devacaMdabhAI ane puSpAbahena caMderiyAnA nivAsasthAne - temanAM svajano vacce. sviTarjhalenDamAM AvAsanI parvatamALA nihALatAM. sviTarjhalenDamAM zIlathornarmA barphalI ThaMDInI moja mANatA. phrAnsamAM ephila TAvara parathI.

Page #265
laMDanamAM svAmInArAyaNa maMdira pAse abhayabhAI mahetA sAthe. nyujhilenDa jatAM vimAnamAM tArAbahena ane ramaNabhAI.

Page #266
amerikAmAM dhodhanI majA mANatA. ramaNabhAI ane tArAbahena. norvemAM vizvanA mahAkAya sAntAklojha sAthe.

Page #267
amerikAmAM aDhI hajAra varSathI vadhAre AyuSya dharAvatA zikoyA vRkSane jovA jatAM dAdAjI sAthe ci. arcita ane ci. acirA amerikAmAM yosimiTi pArka jovA jatAM ramaNabhAI, amitAbha, surabhi, arcita acirA. -

Page #268
tArAbena ane ramaNabhAI AIsalenDamAM rekmAvikamAM. norvemAM ramaNabhAI

Page #269
30. vikToriyA dhodha (jhimbAble) IsavI sananA ogaNIsamA zatakamAM thaI gayelAM iMglenDanAM bAhoza mahArANI vikToriyA keTalAM badhAM bhAgyazALI hatAM ke emanA jamAnAmAM ane tyAra pachI paNa briTana uparAMta briTiza saMsthAnomAM ane anyatra aneka sthaLone, imArato vagerene emanuM nAma apAyuM che [bhAratamAM sau prathama relavelAina muMbaImAM nakhAI tyAre prathama sTezana borIbaMdarane vikToriyA Tarminasa' (vI.TI.) evuM nAma apAyuM hatuM. eka jamAnAmAM muMbaImAM ghoDAgADIne loko "vikToriyA' kahetA.] AphrikA khaMDamAM moTAmAM moTuM sarovara te "vikToriyA sarovara' che ane moTAmAM moTo dhodha te "vikToriyA dhodha che. te samayanAM briTiza saMsthAnomAM A dhodha ane sarovara AvelAM che. AphrikA khaMDanA dakSiNa bhAgamAM AvelA jhimbAve (jUnuM nAma roDeziyA) rASTramAM vikToriyA dhodha jhAmbejhI nAmanI nadI upara Avelo che. tyAM gAmanuM nAma, relave sTezananuM nAma, eraporTanuM nAma "vikToriyA phaoNlsa' che ane saikA pahelAM tyAM baMdhAyelI pahelI ane moTAmAM moTI hoTelanuM nAma paNa vikToriyA phaoNlsa' che. 1976mAM A dhodhanuM navuM nAma "cinmaya zAnti prapAta" - Chinmay Peace Falls - rakhAyuM che, paNa te rUDha thatAM hajI vAra lAgaze. A dhodhane "vikToriyA' evuM nAma koNe ApyuM ? iMglenDanA mahAna vikToriyA dhodha * 219

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zodhasapharI DeviDa liviMgsTane. liviMgsTana (1813-1873) skaoNTalaeNnDanA briTiza vatanI hatA. dAktarI vyavasAya choDI, carcamAM pAdarI tarIke joDAI, carcanI AjJAnusAra madhya AphrikAmAM dharmanA pracArArthe teo AvyA hatA, paNa emano jIva sAhisaka zodhasapharIno hato. aneka saMkaTo veThIne durgama pradezono emaNe pravAsa kheDyo hato ane potAnA anubhavonA vigatavAra ahevAlo lakhyA hatA. sthAnika kALA Aphrikana loko sAthe, potAnA mAyALu svabhAvane kAraNe bhaLatAM emane vAra lAgI nahotI. teo emanI ja bhASA bolatA ane emanI jema rahetA. temanI icchA AphrikA choDI pAchA skaoNTalaeNnDa javAnI nahotI. emaNe carca sAthe saMparka choDI dIdho hato. eTale ja teo jIve che ke nahi enI bhALa kADhavA 'nyU yaoNrka heralDa' nAmanA akhabAre potAnA khabarapatrI henrI morTana sTenlIne mokalyA hatA. tapAsa karatAM karatAM sTenlIe TAMgAnikA sarovaranA kinAre UjIjI nAmanA gAmamAM eka jhUMpaDAmAM liviMgsTanane zodhI kADhyA. tyAre liviMgsTana meleriyA tAvamAM paTakAyA hatA. tyAra pachI sAjA thatAM liviMgsTane sTenlI sAthe sarovaramAM saphara karI, zodhasapharonA anubhavonI vAto thaI ane sTenlI pAchA pharyA. liviMgsTane AphrikAmAM ja potAnuM jIvana pUruM karyuM. liviMgsTane cAlIsa varSanI vaye, I.sa. 1855nA navembaramAM A vikToriyA dhodhanI zodha karI hatI. e divasomAM jyAre relave nahotI, baLadagADI ke ghoDAgADI nahotI, tyAre sAhisako jaMgalamAM keDIe ke keDI vagara AgaLa vadhatA jatA, nakazAo banAvatA tathA noMdha lakhatA jatA. AvuM kaparuM kArya sthAnika AdivAsI jaMgalI jAtinA lokonA sahakAra vagara zakya nahotuM. liviMgsTana jhAmbejhI nadImAM bAnTu jAtinA sAthIdAro sAthe AgaLa vadhatA jatA. sthAnika lokoe e mATe jhADanA moTA jADA lAMbA thaDamAMthI kotarIne hoDI banAvI ApI hatI. AvI hAlakaDolaka thatI jokhamI gAmaThI hoDImAM teo AgaLa vadhatA hatA tyAM emaNe nadI upara dUra dhummasa jevuM joyuM. tarata anumAna thayuM ke tyAM pANI nIce paDatuM hovuM joIe eTale ke tyAM dhodha hovo joIe. have nadIno vega vadhatAM hoDImAM javAya evuM nahotuM. eTale hoDI choDIne eka bAjunA kinAre teo AgaLa vadhyA. dhodha mATe cAlatA javAmAM jokhama hatuM. eTale pAsenA eka nAnA TApu para jaI, sUtAM sUtAM, peTa ghasaDatAM teo AgaLa vadhyA ane dhodha nihALyo. Avo vizALa dhodha jotAM liviMgsTananA harSa-romAMcano pAra na rahyo. jiMdagImAM pahelI vAra AvuM addabhuta dRzya joyuM. teo 220 * pravAsa-darzana

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manathI nAcI UThyA. emanA mukhamAMthI sahaja udgAra sarI paDyA, "potAnI pAMkho vaDe UDatA devadUtoe AvAM ramaNIya dRzyo avazya joyAM haze !" (Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by Angels in their flight) AvA pracaMDakAya benamUna bhavya dhodhanuM nAma zuM rAkhavuM ? liviMgTanane thayuM ke AvA dhodhane to potAnI mahArANI vikToriyAnuM nAma ja zobhe. emaNe potAnA ahevAlamAM A dhodhane "vikToriyA dhodha' (Victoria Falls) tarIke oLakhAvyo. tyArathI eTale ke I.sa. 1885thI e vikToriyA dhodha tarIke jANIto rahyo che. liviMsTane A dhodhanI zodha karIne bahAranI duniyAne enI jANa karI te pahelAM sthAnika Aphrikana lokone to enI khabara hatI ja. temaNe ene ApeluM kAvyamaya nAma che : "garjanA karato dhumADo' (mosI-otujA, Smoke that thunders). moTA dhodhamAM pANI eTaluM badhuM jorathI paDatuM hoya che ke enAM UDatAM sIkarothI dhummasa ke dhumADA jevuM dRzya sarjAya che. e dRzya eTaluM moTuM hoya ke dUrathI dhodhanuM paDatuM pANI na dekhAya, paNa dhaDadhaDa avAja saMbhaLAya. dhumADo avAja kare nahi, paNa ahIM to enI garjanA saMbhaLAya che. eTale sthAnika lokoe sarasa nAma ApyuM, garjanA karato dhumADo.' | vikToriyA dhodhanI zodha to thaI, paraMtu yuropanA pravAsapriya ene kalArasika lokomAM ane prasiddhi maLI citrakAra thaoNmasa beInsa dorelAM dhodhanAM moTAM bahuraMgI citrothI. teo AphrikA AvyA hatA to liviMsTananA madadanIza tarIke kAma karavA, paraMtu liviMsTane 1957mAM jyAre emane A dhodha batAvyo tyAre to teo AbhA ja banI gayA. tarata emanI pIMchI saLavaLI ane emaNe judI judI dizAethI dekhAtAM dazyone kenvAsamAM utAryA. pahelI vAranI A mulAkAtathI saMtoSa na thatAM 1862mAM teo ahIM bIjI vAra AvyA ane be aThavADiyAM rokAI bIjAM citro doryo. emanAM citroe yuropanI prajAne A dhodha jovA mATe ghelI karI. pravAsIono pravAha eTalo vadhato gayo ke vakhata jatAM briTiza sarakAre kepaTAunathI vikToriyA phaoNlsa sudhI relave bAMdhavAnuM TharAvyuM ane e thatAM Aja divasa sudhI hajAro pravAsIo A dhodha nihALavA Ave che. A dhodha jovAnI eka suMdara taka amane paNa sAMpaDI hatI. dakSiNa AphrikAnA pravAsa daramiyAna pacAseka sabhyonI amArI mitramaMDaLI vikToriyA dhodha : 221

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johAnisabargathI vikToriyA phaoNlsa pahoMcI hatI. tyAM jhAmbejhI nadInA kAMThe vizALa parisaramAM AvelI beThA ghATanAM makAnovALI 'jhAmbejhI rivara laoNjamAM amAro utAro hato. potapotAnA rUmamAM goThavAI gayA pachI ame AsapAsa laTAra mArI. sAMje Aphrikana lokanRtyamAM jovA maLe. A bAjunA pradezanI traNa judI judI jAtinAM nRtyomAM jaMgalI hiMsaka prANIono Dara, bhUtapretanA camatkAro, jAtio vaccenI laDAIo, zikAranI yuktio tathA ghAsa ane cAmaDAMmAMthI banAvelI vezabhUSA ane bhayAnaka mahorAM, dharatI dhrujAve evAM paDatAM pagalAM ane DholanagArAM tathA ziMgaDAM-pipUDInA karNakaTu avAjo ityAdi dhyAnAkarSaka hatAM. ahIM amArA mATe eka divasa dhodhanAM darzana mATe ane eka divasa jhAmbejhI nadImAM sahelagAha mATe rakhAyo hato. bIje divase savAre ame dhodha jovA nIkaLyA. ame basamAM beThA paNa haju keTalAMka bhAIbahena AvyAM nahotAM. mitravartuLa hoya eTale thoDuM moDuMvaheluM thAya. teo AvyAM tyAre pUchyuM, 'kema moDuM thayuM ?' javAba maLyo, 'keLAM, sapharajana vagere lIdhAM te rUmamAM mUkavA pAchAM gayAM eTale moDuM thayuM.' 'sAthe khAvA mATe kaMI lIdhuM che ne ?' 'lIdhuM che ne. tame na lIdhuM hoya to nizciMta rahejo. ame ApIzuM.' amArI basa UpaDI ane dhodhanA pravezadvAra pAse pahoMcI. amArA bhomiyAe kahyuM, 'tamAruM grupa moTuM che ane ahIM jovAnI jagyA vizALa che. badhAnI gati ekasarakhI na hoya ane rasa paNa ekasarakho na hoya. ahIM eka cheDethI bIjA cheDA sudhI, thobhIne jovA mATe paMdara paoNinTa che. tamArI anukULatA pramANe karazo. bapora pachI ApaNe helikaoNpTaramAM javAnuM goThavIzuM.' pravezadvAramAM dAkhala thayA pachI DAbI bAjuthI jotAM jotAM jamaNI bAju javAthI, khINanI sAmenI bAjue AvelA dhodhanuM uttarottara vadhu ramaNIya dRzya jovA maLe che. paoNinTanA naMbara paNa e rIte ApelA che. dhodhanI sAmeno pravAsIono A vistAra ghaTAdAra vRkSo ane jhADIvALo che. prakhara taDakAmAM ethI rAhata rahe che. eka paoNinTathI bIjA paoNinTa sudhI ane ema chevaTa sudhI keDI pAkI bAMdhavAmAM AvI che ke jethI na calAya te loko vhIlace2mAM jaI zake. amArAmAMnA keTalAke eno lAbha paNa lIdho. DAbI bAju sauprathama TeviDa liviMgsTananuM zodhasapharInA paheravezamAM, 222 * pravAsa-darzana

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bUTa, enkaleTa ane chAjalIvALI TopIvALuM UbhuM pUtaLuM che. sAmI bAju dhodha jotAM ja lAge ke jANe pANIno lAMbo vizALa paDado Ubho na karyo hoya ! savApAMca hajAra phUTa pahoLo A ghogha duniyAmAM pahoLAmAM pahoLo dhodha che. te Azare traNaso phUTa nIce paDe che. A dhodhanI lAkSaNikatA e che ke bIjA ghaNA-kharA dhodhanuM uparathI paDatuM pANI nIce sudhI joI zakAya che; nIce jaIne boTamAM dhodha pAse jaI zakAya che. paNa evuM ahIM nathI. pRthvInA paDamAM acAnaka moTo lAMbo cIro paDyo hoya ane nadInuM dhamamasatuM pANI ociMtuM nIce paDI jAya evo A dhodha che. bhUstarazAstrIo mAne che ke paMdaravIsa karoDa varSa pUrve A pradezamAM phATelA jvALAmukhIonA lAvArasanA nakkara thaI gayelA paththaromAM moTA dharatIkaMpathI lAMbI phATa paDI gaI haze. ethI vahetI nadImAM A dhodhanuM kudaratI nirmANa thayuM haze. helikaoNpTa2mAMthI joIe to A vAta tarata spaSTa samajAya evI che. A dhodhamAM vadhumAM vadhu pANI hoya che tyAre eka miniTamAM paMcAvana karoDa liTara jeTaluM pANI nIce paDe che. enA chAMTA, jalabiMduo paMdaraso phUTa UMce UDe che. ethI dhummasa ke dhumADA jevuM vAtAvaraNa dUrathI dekhAya che. ene lIdhe nIce paDatuM pANI barAbara dekhAtuM nathI, dhUMdhaLuM dekhAya che, jANe ke ApaNane AMkhe motiyo Avyo na hoya ! eTale ja ahIM be paoNinTane keTerekTa (motiyo) paoNinTa' evuM nAma ApavAmAM AvyuM che. moTo dhodha hoya tyAM satata UDatAM sIkaromAM meghadhanuSya dekhAya. eTale eka paoNinTane ahIM 'reinabo paoNinTa' evuM nAma ApyuM che. eka bAju dhodhano AkAra ghoDAnI nALa (Horse shoe) jevo dekhAya che, eTale ene evuM nAma ApavAmAM AvyuM che. je jagyAe bAre mAsa divasarAta jaththAbaMdha pANI paDe che tene mukhya dhodha (Main Falls) kahe che. eka paoNinTane 'Denjara paoNinTa' nAma apAyuM che, kAraNa ke tyAM sAcavIne javuM paDe che ane tyAMthI nIce nihALatAM khINanI bhayAnakatAno khayAla Ave che. dhodhanI eka bAju nAno TApu che. enuM nAma che 'liviMgsTana TApu' ke jyAMthI liviMgsTane pahelavahelAM A dhodhanAM darzana karyAM hatAM. bIjI eka bAju khINane joDato relaveno pula bAMdhavAmAM Avyo che ke jethI musApharo TrenamAM beThAM beThAM garjato dhodha nihALI zake ane UDatAM jalabiMduothI bhIMjAIne romAMca anubhavI zake. bhomiyAe amane kahyuM ke, 'A dhodhanI khAsiyata e che ke comAsAmAM pANI ochuM paDe che ane unALAmAM vadhAre paDe che.' vikToriyA dhodha * 223

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'sAcI vAta che ? AvuM kema ?' 'sAcI vAta che. ahIM comAsuM navembarathI mArca sudhI hoya che. tyAre najIkamAM paDelA varasAdathI dhodhanA pANInI sAdhAraNa vRddhi thAya che, paraMtu pachI eprila-me mahinAmAM eno jalarAzi ekadama vadhI jAya che, kAraNa ke jhAmbejhI nadIno dhodhamAra varasAdathI pANI bharAvAno vistAra (Catchment Area) ahIMthI Azare eka hajAra mAIla dUra che. aneka vaLAMkovALI nadImAM AvelA e pUrane ahIM sudhI pahoMcatAM be-aDhI mahinA lAgI jAya che.' kudaratamAM paNa kevI vicitra vyavasthA hoya che ! ame dhodha jotAM jotAM eka paoNinTathI bIjA paoNinTa para jatA hatA. koI utAvaLa hatI nahi. ramaNIya dhodha parathI najara khaseDavAnuM gamatuM nahi. enA patanamAM ane patananA udghoSamAM zravaNamadhura laya hato. eka naMbarathI chellA naMbara sudhI khAssuM cAlavAnuM che. keTalIka keDIo vAMkIcUkI che, paNa emAM bhUlA paDAya evuM nahotuM, kA2Na ke sthAnika copagA bhomiyAo amane dorI jatA hatA. e bhomiyA hatA vAMdarAo. teo ApaNI sAva najIka AgaLa AgaLa cAle. keDImAM be phAMTA Ave to e ApaNane sAcI bAju laI jAya. temanI cAlamAM sAhajikatA ane nirbhayatA hatI. ApaNe UbhA rahIe to ApaNI rAha jotA besI rahe. teo A je sevA svecchAe bajAvatA te bakSisanI AzAe. ame sAthe lIdhelAM keLAM, caNA, biskiTa ApIne emane prasanna karyAM. prakRtinAM keTalAMka tattvomAM evI khUbI hoya che ke pratyeka vakhate te navuM saundarya dhAraNa kare. vikToriyA dhodhanuM paNa evuM ja che. e savAre juo, bapore ke sAMje juo, aMdhArI rAte juo ke pUnamanI rAte, unALAmAM juo ke ziyALAmAM, dareka vakhate eNe navuM ja rUpa dhAraNa kareluM hoya ! bapora pachI ame helikaoNpTaramAM besIne jhAmbejhI nadI ane vikToriyA dhodhanuM cAre bAjuthI vihaMgAvalokana (helikaoNpTarAvalokana) karyuM. e karIe tyAre ja dharatImAM paDelI lAMbI phATa sahita prapAtano saMpUrNa vAstavika khayAla Ave che. amane to thoDe dUra nadInA pANImAM 2mata karatA hAthIo paNa jovA maLyA. dhodha joI ame utAre pAchA pharyA. badhA potapotAnAM kAmamAM vyasta banI gayA. ame keTalIka mAhitI mATe risepzanisTa pAse UbhA hatA tyAM savA2vALAM pelAM bahenoe AvIne phariyAda karI, 'amArI rUma koIe 224 * pravAsa-darzana

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kholI hatI ? ame savAre keLAM ane bIjuM khAvAnuM mUkIne gayAM hatAM te koI laI gayuM che.' "bahena, rUma to koIe kholI nahi hoya, paNa tame bArI ke bAlkanInuM bAraNuM khulluM rAkhyuM hatuM ?' "khabara nathI.' jarU2 khulluM rahI gayuM haze. vAMdarAo tamAruM khAvAnuM upADI gayA haze. ahIM vAMdarAono trAsa che. e mATe dareka rUmamAM ame sUcanA mUkI ja che.' pachIthI khabara paDI ke potAnuM khAvAnuM gayAno anubhava bIjA traNa jaNane paNa thayo hato. vAMdarAo AvuM baMdhu kRtya pakSapAtarahitapaNe karatA hoya che. vikToriyA dhodhanuM bhavya darzana e jiMdagIno eka lahAvo che. ame 21 sapTembara, 2000nA roja dhodhanAM darzana karyA. e divasa amane vadhAre yAda eTalA mATe rahI gayo che ke te divase rAtre muMbaImAM, nakhamAMye roga vagaranA, lAkaDInA TekA vagara cAlanArA, potAnuM badhuM kArya jAte karI lenArA 104 varSanI uMmaranA mArA pitAzrIe UMghamAM samAdhipUrvaka deha choDyo enA samAcAra ApavA svajanoe phona karyo hato. pitAzrInuM jIvana paNa dhodha jevuM bhavya hatuM. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3). vikToriyA dhodha - 225

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31. mevAsiMgano beTo (moreziyasa) moriziyasa eTale arabI samudramAM 'choTA bhArata'. A dvIpa-deza (Island Country) AphrikAnA pUrva kinArAthI AThaso mAIla dUra dariyAmAM Avyo hovA chatAM bhaugolika dRSTie sezalsa ane mADAgAskaranA TApuonI jema enI gaNanA paNa AphrikA khaMDamAM thAya che. moriziyasa eTale hajAro varSa pUrve TharI gayelA jvALAmukhIono pradeza. jo ke pachIthI te eTalo ja phaLadrupa banelo. zeraDI eno mukhya pAka che. me-jUna-julAImAM moriziyasamAM pharIe to pUrI UMcI UgelI ane u52thI saheja lacI paDelI zeraDInAM khetaro cAre bAju jovA maLe. moriziyasanA arthataMtramAM mukhya Avaka zeraDInI. paMdareka lAkhanI vastIne vaparAza mATe jeTalI joIe te sivAyanI badhI ja khAMDanI nikAsa duniyAnA ghaNA dezomAM thAya. ApaNe tyAM khAMDa mATe 'morasa' zabda vaparAya che te moriziyasanA nAma uparathI Avyo che. moriziyasa eTaluM sabhAna che ke potAnA nAnA sarakhA dezanI badhI ja jamIna khetI mATe ja vaparAvI joIe, eTale khetarone vADa paNa hotI nathI. rastAnI aDoaDa baMne bAju zeraDI UgelI hoya. kAkAsAhebe yogya rIte ja moriziyasane 'zarkarA dvIpa' tarIke oLakhAvyo che. ame cAra mitro 1987nA me mahinAmAM moriziyasanA pravAse tyAMnI 'moriziyasa eNralAInsa'nA vimAnamAM muMbaIthI UpaDyA hatA. savArano 226 * pravAsa-darzana

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samaya hato ane AkAza svaccha hatuM. eTale vimAnanI bArImAMthI arabI samudramAM AvelA moriziyasa TApunuM dRzya koI svapnabhUmi samuM manohara lAgatuM hatuM. mAruM citta eka bAju vimAnamAMthI dRzyo jovAmAM rokAyuM hatuM. tema bIjI bAju moriziyasanI bhUtakALanI vAtomAM magna banyuM hatuM. IsavIsananA soLamA saikAnA AraMbhamAM yuropanA khalAsIo vahANamAM bhArata bAju AvavA nIkaLelA tyAre teoe arabI samudramAM A TApu joyelo, ane noMdhelo. I. sa. 1900mAM Daca lokoe eno kabajo lIdho. potAnA umarAva morisanA nAme uparathI enuM nAma moriziyasa rAkhyuM. paraMtu TharelA jvALAmukhIno e pradeza bahu kAmano na hovAthI teoe I. sa. 1710mAM choDI dIdho. pachI phreMca lokoe enA upara Adhipatya jamAvyuM. eka saikA daramiyAna, phreMca lokoe moriziyasanuM DoDo nAmanuM pakSI khAI khAIne khatama karI nAkhyuM. eTale kahevata paDI : Dead as a dodo. I. sa. 1810mAM briTana ane phrAMsa vacce yuddha thayuM. te vakhate briTiza naukAsenAe pheMco pAsethI A TApu paDAvI lIdho. aMgrejoe zeraDInI khetI mATe ane khAMDanAM potAnAM kArakhAnAMo mATe bhAratamAMthI majUro laI jaIne tyAM vasAvyA. eTale moriziyasa "choTe bhArata" jevuM banI gayuM. 1968mAM te svataMtra thayuM. moriziyasamAM enuM mukhya vepArI zahera che kyupiMpa. (Curepipeno uccAra e pramANe teo kare che.) phreMca Adhipatya daramiyAna A verAna TApumAM thAkelA pravAsIo ahIM visAmo khAvA besatA ane pAIpa pItA. pAIpa saLagAvatAM pahelAM teo ene sApha -Cure- karatA. eTale A sthaLanuM nAma Curepipe paDI gayuM hatuM. tyAM hoTela konTinenTalamAM ame UtaryA hatA. vacamAM ame dariyAkinArAnI eka hoTelamAM paNa rahI AvyA ane AsapAsano keTaloka pradeza paNa joyo. amArAmAMnA eka mitrane muMbaIthI koIka oLakhItAM uttara bhAratIya bahene potAnA bhAI upara mAtra khuzakhabarano patra Apyo hato. mevAsiMga nAmanA eka sajjanane e patra pahoMcADavAno hato. na pahoMcADAya to TapAlamAM nAkhavAno hato ane e paNa bhUlI javAya to kazo vAMdho nathI ema emaNe kaheluM. kyupiMpanI hoTelamAMthI aNe mevAsiMgane phona karyo. kahyuM, "tamArAM bahene muMbaIthI khuzakhabarano patra mokalAvyo che. emaNe kahyuM che ke patramAM khAsa koI mahattvanI vAta nathI. eTale ame Aje TapAlamAM nAkhIzuM. kAraNa ke tamAruM gAma to ahIMthI TeksImAM doDha kalAkane raste che ane mevAsiMgano beTo jhaTa 220

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amane tyAM sudhI AvavAnI anukULatA nathI.' mevAsiMge kahyuM, 'tame patra TapAlamAM 2vAnA na karazo. huM Aje e bAju nIkaLavAno chuM. to tamArI hoTela para AvIne laI jaIza.' nizcita samaye mevAsiMga hoTela upara AvI pahoMcyA. teo UMcA ane zyAma varNanA hatA. svabhAve hasamukha jaNAyA. sapheda zarTa, sapheda penTa ane kaeNnavAsanAM sapheda zUjha temaNe paheryAM hatAM. jANe koI khelADI hoya evA lAge. paMcAvananI uMmara vaTAvI gayA haze evuM caherA parathI jaNAtuM hatuM. caherA para AMkho nIce saheja sojA hatA. e parathI lAgyuM ke tabiyata barAbara nahi rahetI hoya. emano avAja niyamita dArU pInArano vRddhAvasthAmAM jevo thaI jAya tevo hato. mevAsiMganI bhASA hindI hatI, paraMtu temanA bolavAmAM moriziyasamAM pracalita thayelI phreMca varNasaMkara jevI lokabolI kreola (Creole)nI thoDI chAMTa vaetAtI hatI. vAtacIta parathI jANyuM ke teo kreolamAM paNa sarasa bolI zakatA hatA. ame mevAsiMgane patra Apyo. emaNe kahyuM, 'tame TheTha bhAratathI Avo ane mArA ghare jamyA vagara jAo te barAbara nathI. mane A gamatuM nathI.' emano ghaNo Agraha hato eTale chevaTe ema nakkI thayuM ke teo pote je klabamAM sabhya che, tyAM amAre emanI sAthe cA-pANI levAM. ame taiyAra thaI mevAsiMganI kAramAM besI klabamAM gayA. ame beThA ke tarata emaNe jAtajAtanI vAnagIo mATe oNrDara ApI dIdhA. ame mUMjhAyA. kahyuM, 'ATaluM badhuM kaMI khavAze nahi.' emaNe kahyuM : 'je phAve . te lejo. klaba ApaNA gharanI che ema ja samajajo. ApaNe pharI kyAre maLIzuM te kone khabara che ? huM to hArTa pezanTa chuM.' ame joyuM ke veITaro paNa mevAsiMga sAthe bahu Adara, vinaya ane premathI sasmita vAta karatA hatA. TebalanI eka bAjuthI vizALa pAradarzaka kAcamAMthI gaoNlDa mATenuM lIluMchama medAna dekhAtuM hatuM. mevAsiMge kahyuM ke pote gaoNlDa 2mavAnA ghaNA zokhIna hatA. paraMtu pAMceka varSa pahelAM hRdayarogano humalo Avyo tyAra pachI emaNe gaoNlpha ramavAnuM choDI dIdhuM che. pharI gaye varSe emane bIjo humalo paNa AvI gayo paNa bacI gayA. paraMtu klabamAM AvavAnuM temanuM niyamitapaNe cAlu ja che. hRdayaroganA humalA pachI keTalAka mANaso bhAvArta banI jAya che ane kaMIka lAgaNIzIlatAnI vAta Ave to gaLagaLA banI jAya che ke emanI AMkhamAM AMsu AvI jAya che. mevAnsiMganuM paNa evuM ja jaNAyuM. potAnI bahenano patra kholatAM pahelAM emaNe kahyuM, 'huM pahelAM 228 * pravAsa-darzana

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thoDuM raDI lauM. mArI bahenano aMdara Thapako haze ja, kAraNa ke ghaNA vakhatathI mArAthI patra lakhAyo nathI." eTaluM bolatAM to emanI AMkhamAMthI be motI sarI paDyAM. mevAsiMga patra vAMcavAmAM paDyA. ame cA-nAsto letAM letAM golphanA medAna tarapha jovA lAgyA. tyAM mevAsiMge kahyuM, "golpha ramavAnI vAta Ave eTale mArA karatAM mArA beTA rAmune bahu majhA paDe. ame gharethI kAramAM nIkaLIe ane ene khabara paDe ke klabamAM jaIe chIe to Akhe raste e gelamAM AvI gayelo hoya." tamArA beTAne paNa golpha ramatAM AvaDe che ?" "nA, evuM to na kahevAya, paNa ramato houM tyAre baoNla lAvI ApavA mATe e doDAdoDI kare.' keTalAM varSano che tamAro dIkaro ?" ene cha pUrAM thayAM ane sAtamuM cAle che." e paNa klabano membara che ?' nA e membara nathI. kAyadesara membara na thaI zake, paNa e membarathI paNa vizeSa che, kAraNa ke klabamAM saune e vahAlo che." - "skUle javAnuM eNe cAlu karyuM che ? "nA, paNa e ghaNo ja hoziyAra che. enI samajadArI to Azcarya pamADe evI che. tame eka vakhata ene juo to kyAreya bhUlI zako nahi." kharekhara ? to to tamArA dIkarAne amAre jovo joIze.' amArAmAMthI eke kahyuM. eTale ja kahuM chuM ke cAlo mArI sAthe mAre ghare. tamane mArI kAramAM laI jaIza. ApaNe tyAM sAthe jamIe. tamane haoNTela para pAchA pahoMcADavAnI javAbadArI mArI. pachI tamane zo vAMdho che ?' keTalIka AnAkAnI pachI mevAsiMganA ghare jamavA javAnuM nakkI thayuM. mevAsiMga harSamAM AvI gayA. tarata ghare phona joDyo ane jamavA mATe sUcanA ApI dIdhI. ame moTaramAM mevAsiMgane ghare javA UpaDyA. rastAmAM emanI sAthe vAta karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke pote ekavIsa varSanI umare paraNyA ane be varSamAM vidhura thayA. pachI lagna karavAnI emanI bilakula icchA nahotI. paNa vakhata jatAM jIvanamAM ekalatA lAgavA mAMDI. eTale pistAlIsa varSanI uMmare eka mitranI bhalAmaNathI yamunA nAmanI eka vidhavA zikSikA sAthe mevAsiMgano beTo - 229

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lagna karyAM. emanuM dAmpatyajIvana ghaNI sArI rIte goThavAI gayuM hatuM. emano vyavasAya moTA oNrDara pramANe, DijhAIna anusAra kapaDAM sIvI ApavAno hato. dasa darajIo kAma kare ane potAne mAtra dekharekha rAkhavAnI. badhI rIte sukhI hatA. eka mAtra dIkarAnI khoTa hatI. te paNa bhagavAne ApI dIdho. emanA saMtAnamAM eka mAtra rAmu hato. lagabhaga eka kalAkanA rastA pachI mevArmiMganuM ghara AvyuM. gADImAMthI UtarI ame mevAsiMganA gharamAM gayA. gharamAM dAkhala thatAM ja mevAsiMge utsAhapUrvaka bhAvabharyA lahekAthI bUma pADI. 'rA....mu ! beTA... rAmu !' tyAM emanAM patnIe rasoDAmAMthI bahAra AvI kahyuM, 'rAmu bahAra gayo che. paDozanA chokarAo ene sAthe 2mavA laI gayA che. have Avavo joIe.' mevAsiMge potAnAM patnI yamunAbahenano paricaya karAvyo. pachI teo tarata rAmu mATe bUma pADatA bahAra nIkaLyA. ame sophAmAM goThavAyA. eTalAmAM eka kALA bhUkharA raMgano aljeziyana kUtaro gharamAM dAkhala thayo. e amArA cArenA paga sUMghavA lAgyo. yamunAbahene kahyuM, 'gabharAzo nahi, e tamane karaDaze nahi.' mevAsiMge sarasa majhAno kUtaro pALyo che ema jotAM ja amane lAgyuM. evAmAM mevAsiMga bahArathI bolatAM bolatAM AvatA dekhAyA, 'are rAmu... tuM AvI gayo che ? huM tane zodhavA nIkaLyo hato.' rAmu kyAre gharamAM Avyo ane kyAM jato rahyo enI amane khabara paDI nahi. tyAM kUtaro mevAsiMga ta2pha bahAra doDyo ane be page UMco thaI emanI sAthe gela karato karato gharamAM Avyo. mevAsiMge paricaya karAvyo, 'A mAro beTo rAmu.' emaNe kUtarAne kahyuM, 'jA beTA... mahemAno sAthe hAtha milAva.' ame AzcaryamAM paDyA. pUchyuM, 'je dIkarAnI tame vAta karatA hatA te A ?' 'hA, A mAro ekano eka beTo che. rAmu beTA karatAM paNa ghaNo vadhAre che. mArA vilamAM paNa `mArA A beTAnuM nAma meM dAkhala karAvyuM che. mArA beTAne have to koI kUtaro kahe to paNa mane gamatuM nathI. amArA kuTuMbano e sarvasva che.' daramiyAna rAmue amArA dareka pAse AvI potAno AgaLano jamaNo paga UMco karI hAtha milAvyA. 230 * pravAsa-darzana

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mevAsiMge kahyuM, "beTA rAmu, A mArA bUTa uparanA rUmamAM mUkI Ava.' rAmu moDhAmAM eka pachI eka bUTa bharAvI dAdara caDato uparanA rUmamAM mUkI Avyo. pachI mevAsiMge kahyuM, "beTA, mArA slipara laI Ava.' rAmu slipara laI Avyo. mevAsiMge pagamAMthI mojAM kADhyAM ane kahyuM, "beTA, jA A sapheda mojAM mUkI Ava ane kALAM mojAM laI Ava.' rAmue e pramANe karyuM. Ama mevAsiMge bIjI keTalIka vastuo magAvI ane keTalIka pAchI mokalI. kUtaro bhUlacUka vagara badhuM ja kAma vyavasthita karato hato. ame kharekhara Azcaryacakti thaI gayA. ame joyuM ke kUtarAnI AMkho kaMIka judI ja hatI. emAM mANasa jevI ja nirdoSatA, saraLatA, bhAvukatA, vinaya, prema, vaphAdArI vagere vaMcAtAM hatAM. ame pUchayuM, "rAmune A badhuM AvaDyuM kevI rIte ? tame khAsa tAlIma ApI che ke koInI pAse evI tAlIma apAvI che ?' mavAsiMga kahyuM, "evI koI tAlIma ApI nathI ke apAvI nathI. rAmu eka varSano hato tyAre ame ene vecAto laI AvelA. paNa pachI ame baMnee ene bahu vahAla ApyuM che. meM ene mArA beTAnI jema ucheryo che. mAtra enuM zarIra kUtarAnuM che. amArI sAthe e UThe che; amArI sAthe khAya che; amArI sAthe e bahAra pharavA Ave che. ane rAtre amArI pathArImAM ja sAthe sUI jAya che.' - yamunAbahene kahyuM, "amArI badhI vAtacIta e samaje che. koI vAra ene khoTuM lAge ane risAya to e khAya nahi. pachI amAre ene bahu manAvavo paDe. ghaNAM kAlAvAlA pachI e mAnI jAya tyAre AMkhamAM daDadaDa AMsu sAthe e khAya. e eTalo jAtavAna che ke ame ene lAvyA tyArathI Aja lagI koI divasa eNe amAruM ghara gaMduM karyuM nathI. game teTalo bhUkhyo hoya ane rasoDAmAM khAvAnuM khulluM paDyuM hoya paNa ame na ApIe tyAM sudhI khAya nahi." yamunAbahene Tebala goThavyuM eTale ame jamavA beThA. amArI sAthe rAmu paNa jamavA beTho. khurazI upara e evI rIte beTho ke be paga laTakatA rahe ane be paga Tebala para rahe. ene pleTamAM evI vastuo khAvA ApavAmAM AvI ke je e be paga vaDe barAbara pakaDIne khAI zake. mevAsigano beTo - 231

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yamunAbahene kahyuM, 'dhIme dhIme karatAM rAmune ghaNI vastuo khAtAM AvaDI gayuM che. eka vakhata eka mehamAna AvyA hatA. ane e vakhate lIcInI sIjhana hatI. ame rAmunI pleTamAM lIcI mUkI to eNe photarAM ukhADI lIcI khAdhI. ThaLiyA tathA photarAM pleTamAM evI rIte mUkato jAya ke jarA paNa kazuM bagaDe nahi. rAmune lIcI khAto joIne mahemAna Azcaryacakti thaI gayA hatA.' 'rojano eno khorAka zuM ?' ame khAIe te ja. dALa, roTI, cAvala, sabajI. ene badhuM ja bhAve.' 'ene mAMsAhAra Apavo paDe ?' 'nA, bilakula nahi. Ama to aljeziyana kUtarAM mAMsAhArI hoya che. paNa rAmu to pahelethI ja zuddha zAkAhArI che. pyAja, lasaNa ame na khAIe eTale rAmu paNa na khAya.' kUtaruM ja eka mAtra evuM prANI che ke je samagra jagatamAM sarvatra jovA maLe che, pachI e himapradeza hoya ke raNapradeza, sUkI dharatI hoya ke satata vRSTivALAM lIlAMchama jaMgalo hoya. prANI jagatamAMthI manuSyanI sauthI vadhu najIka hoya evAM prANIomAM bilADI kharI, paNa kUtarAnI tole e na Ave. kUtarAe mANasanA mAtra AMgaNAmAM ja nahi, phakta gharanI aMdara ja nahi, TheTha enA zayanakhaMDa sudhI sthAna meLavI lIdhuM che. bilADI rAtane vakhate bArI- bAraNAM khullAM hoya to bhaTakavA cAlI jAya. kUtaruM AkhI rAta cokI bharatuM pAse ne pAse besI rahe. kUtarAnI prANendriya atyaMta tIvra ane nidrA ghaNI ochI. mAlikanI mAgaNIone paNa e barAbara samaje. rAmue kalAkamAM amArA saunAM dila jItI lIdhAM. moDuM thatuM hatuM eTale ame UThyA. mevAnsiMga ane yamunAbahena rAmu sAthe amane hoTela para mUkavA AvyAM. Akhe raste rAmunI ja vAta cAlyA karI. hoTela para pahoMcI ame emanI vidAya lIdhI. mevAnsiMga karatAM paNa rAmunI AMkhamAM amane vizeSa bhAva jaNAyo. rUmamAM sUtAM sUtAM paNa ame rAmuno ja vicAra karatA hatA. ema lAgyuM ke sAruM thayuM ke mevAsiMgano patra TapAlamAM na nAkhyo, nahi to eka sarasa avasara gumAvata. moriziyasamAM ame pATanagara paoNrTa lUIsanuM baMdara joyuM, taDako khAvA 232 * pravAsa-darzana

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AvelA gorA sahelANIothI UbharAtI dariyAkinArAnI ekathI eka caDiyAtI 'bIca' hoTelo joI, sUryaprakAzamAM raMga badalatI cemarelanI dharatI joI, TharI gayelA jvALAmukhInuM mukha (Crater) joyuM, eka moTA zrImaMta zrIrAmaphalananuM eka hajAra ekara karatAM vadhu moTuM zeraDInuM khetara joyuM, videzI hUMDiyAmaNa kamAvI ApanAra entheriyama (Anthurium) puSpa jyAM hajAronI saMkhyAmAM ugADavAmAM Ave che, evA bagIcA joyA, bAremAsa ane covIse kalAka jorajorathI satata ghUghavato gigarIno tophAnI dariyo joyo ane bIjuM ghaNuM joyuM, paNa mevAsiMganA beTAno prasaMga e badhAMne bhulAve evo hato. moriziyasano be aThavADiyAMno pravAsa pUro karI ame bhArata pAchA AvyA ane sau potapotAnA rojiMdA jIvanamAM gUMthAI gayA. tyAra pachI keTalAka samaya pachI jANavA maLyuM hatuM ke hRdayaroganA trIjA bhAre humalAne kAraNe mevAsiMganuM avasAna thayuM hatuM. emanA avasAnanA samAcAra amArA mATe du:khada hatA, paraMtu vadhu du:khada samAcAra e hatA ke emanA avasAnanI potAne tarata gaMdha AvatAM rAmue rokakaLa karI mUkI hatI. mevAsiMganA zabane jyAre laI javAyuM tyAre eNe gha2mAM bebAkaLA banIne Amatema doDAdoDa karI mUkI hatI. ane pachI thAkIne zAMta thayA pachI mevAsiMge jyAM deha choDyo tyAM e divasa-rAta sUnamUna besI rahyo. vAraMvAra ApavA chatAM na e kazuM khAya ke na pIe. enuM zarIra karamAvA lAgyuM ane sAtame divase rAmunA jIvanano paNa aMta Avyo. pitA-putranI eka virala joDIe A duniyAmAMthI kAyamane mATe vidAya lIdhI. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) mevAsiMgano beTo * 233

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32 yosemiTI (yu. esa. e.) amerikAmAM kharekhara jovA jevA ke keTalAka ramya naisargika pradezo gaNAya che temAM yosemiTI (YOSEMITE)nuM sthAna mahattvanuM che. amerikA pazcima vibhAgamAM AvelA e pradezanA prAkRtika parivezane sAcavavA mATe ene "nezanala pArka' tarIke jAhera karavAmAM Avyo che. himAcchAdita zikharo, himanadI (gleziyara), moTA moTA dhodha, nAnAM moTAM sarovaro, hajAra varSa jUnAM vRkSo, vividha prakAranAM pazupakSIo, phaLadrupa khINapradeza, anukULa AbohavA - A badhuM eka ja sthaLe jovA maLe evo pradeza te yosemiTI. tyAM sAmasAme parvatanA zikharo che ane vacce vizALa hariyALI khINa che. tyAM "AhavAhanIcI nAmanA reDa inDiyana AdivAsIonA vArasadAro haju paNa vase che. sAnDrAnsisko pAsenA kuparaTino zaherathI ame parivAranA sabhyo traNeka divasa mATe yosemiTI javA nIkaLyA hatA. doDhaso mAIla dUra, yosemiTInI najIka AvelA gAma mAriposA (MARIPOSA)mAM "kanpharTa Ina' nAmanI hoTelamAM amAruM UtaravAnuM goThavAyuM hatuM. amerikA jevA ghanADhya dezamAM vizALa rastAo para moTI moTI moTaragADIo niraMtara pUrapATa doDatI rahe che, paNa kyAreka kaMIka khoTakAya to so-baso gADInI hAra ghaDIkamAM thaI jAya. tyAre becAra kalAka bagaDI paNa jAya. amArA hAIve para koI akasmAta thayo nahoto, paNa eka sthaLe moDuM samArakAma 234 4 pravAsa-darzana

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cAlatuM hovAthI gADIonI cAra lAInamAMthI be lAIna karI nAkhavAmAM AvI hatI. eTale dhAryA karatAM traNa kalAka mAriposA ame moDA pahoMcyA. joke amAre to bhojana karIne sUI ja javAnuM hatuM eTale vilaMbathI vAMdho Avyo nahi. paraMtu AvA anapekSita vilaMbathI kyAreka goThavAyelo kAryakrama bagaDI paNa jAya. bIje divase savAre ame yosemiTI javA nIkaLyA. Azare betAlIsa mAIlano rasto DuMgarALa pradezamAMthI pasAra thAya che. bAjumAM khaLakhaLa vahetI maraseTa (MERCED) nadInAM subhaga darzana, kyAreka rastAnI jamaNI bAju to kyAreka DAbI bAju satata thatAM rahe che. AsapAsa zaMku AkAranAM (Coniferous) lIlAMchama vRkSo vAtAvaraNanI zItalatAmAM ane ramyatAmAM AlAdaka umero karatAM hatAM. marasei nadI himAlayanI maMdAkinI ane alakanaMdAnI yAda apAvatI hatI. DuMgaranI dhAra para pasAra thato rasto eka vizALa maidAnI ilAkAmAM amane laI gayo. e yosemiTI khINano vistAra hato. traNa bAju UMcA parvatonI vacce, aneka vizALa uttuMga vRkSothI chavAyelo khINavistAra mana harI le evo che. tyAM mAhitI kendra che, Adhunika bIjI sagavaDo che, chatAM ghaNI sagavaDo hetupUrvaka nathI karavAmAM AvI ke jethI pArkanuM asala kudaratI svarUpa jaLavAI rahe. e jALavavA mATe moTI jhuMbeza upADanAra ane yosemiTIne "nUzanala pArka' tarIke jAhera karAvI, zikAra, vRkSo kApavAM vagere para sarakAra dvArA pratibaMdha pharamAvavAmAM saphaLa thanAra te suprasiddha amerikana pravAsalekhaka ane ciMtaka jhona mUra (John Muir) hatA. jhona mUra amerikAnA prakRtivizArada, zodhasApharI ane parvatArohaka hatA. teo alAskA sahita uttara amerikAmAM, laeNTina amerikAmAM tathA anya pradezomAM ghaNuM rakhaDyA hatA. emaNe potAnA pravAsanA anubhavonAM keTalAMka pustako lakhyAM che jemAM "Thousand Mile walk in the Gulf jANItuM che. temaNe ghaNI duniyA joI hatI, paNa 1868mAM teo yosemiTImAM AvyA tyAre teo enA naisargika vAtAvaraNathI atyaMta prabhAvita thaI gayA. teo yosemiTI pAchaLa gAMDA thaI gayA ema ja kahevAya. temaNe yosemiTIne ja potAnuM nivAsasthAna banAvI dIdhuM. 1914mAM 76 varSanI vaye teo avasAna pAmyA tyAM sudhI teo yosemiTImAM ja rahyA. yosemiTInA prAkRtika paryAvaraNane bacAvI levAmAM temano phALo sauthI moTo ane mahattvano hato. temane sAtha ApanAra gelana klArka paNa hatA. yosemiTI 9 235

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teo paNa traNa dAyakAthI adhika samaya A pradezamAM rahyA hatA. jhona mUra A pradezanAM potAnAM saMsmaraNo, avalokano, noMdha vagere lakhatA rahyA hatA. e vAMcatAM ja pratIti thAya ke koI zAMtipriya, adhyAtmarasika kavino jIva teo hovA joIe. temaNe yosemiTIne "prakRtinA bhavya maMdira' tarIke biradAveluM che. temaNe I. sa. 1871mAM amerikana ciMtaka Imarsanane lakhyuM hatuM, "yosemiTI e prakRti sAthe tAdAbhya sAdhavAnI eka adbhuta prayogazALA che. huM tamane yosemiTImAM eka mahinA mATe padhAravAnuM nimaMtraNa ApuM chuM. e mATe tamAre samaya ApavA sivAya bIjuM kaMI paNa kharca karavAnuM nahi rahe. samayanuM kharca paNa ahIM ochuM thaze kAraNa ke ghaNokharo vakhata tame anaMtatAmAM viharatA hazo." jhona mUra jevI vyakti imarsana jevA ciMtakane evI lAkSaNika rIte lakhe to e parathI yosemiTIno pradeza kevo haze enI ApaNane khAtarI thAya. alabatta, eka paryaTana kendra banavAne kAraNe yosemiTImAM lokonI avarajavara ghaNI badhI vadhI javAthI, jhona mUranA samayanuM vAtAvaraNa mukhya mArgo para rahyuM nathI topaNa e mArgothI thoDA Aghe ekAtta sthaLamAM thoDA divasa rahevA maLe to evA preraka anubhavo jarUra Aje paNa thAya. yosemiTI eTale prAcIna kALanA RSimunio pasaMda kare evuM eka suramya, suzAnta sAdhanAkSetra, keTalAka itihAsakAro kahe che tema dasa hajAra varSathI mAnavajAtinuM A eka priya kSetra rahyA karyuM che. traNa hajAra varSa pUrve ahIM mAnavajAti vasatI hatI enAM nizcita pramANo maLe che. hAla A vistAramAM je AdivAsIo rahe che teonA hajAra-bAraso varSa pUrvenA vaDavAo "AhavAhanIcI' tarIke oLakhAtA hatA. teoe potAnI bhASAmAM A khINane ApeluM nAma te "AhavAhanI' che. eno artha thAya che khulluM moTuM. traNa bAju parvato ane vacce khINa jevo pradeza teone khullA moDhA jevo lAgato haze. eTale A pradezanuM nAma paDyuM. "AhavAhanI' ane AhavAhanI'mAM rahetA loko te kahevAyA "AhavAhanIcI'. A prajAnA vaMzajo Aje paNa tyAM vidyamAna che ane teo judA judA nAmathI oLakhAya che. amerikAnA pazcima vibhAgamAM A pradeza Avelo hovAthI pesiphika mahAsAgaranA kinAre AvelAM gAmo sAthe teono saMbaMdha vadhu rahyo che. AhavAhanIcI mAMthI vakhata jatAM "mivoka', "pAyute', "tenAyA' vagere inDiyana prajAo UtarI AvI. keliphorniyAmAM ane bAjunA nevADA rAjyamAM chUTAchavAyA vistAromAM A AdivAsIo haju paNa jovA maLe che. 236 pravAsa-darzana

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yosemiTInA pradezamAM potAnuM zAnta jIvana jIvatA reDa inDiyana AdivAsIone mATe Apatti AvI paDI I. sa. 1848mAM. te samaye sierA nevADA vistAramAMthI sonuM maLI AvyuM. ethI aneka speniza sAhasiko sonuM meLavavA A pradezamAM dhasI AvyA. AdivAsIone parAyA lokonI potAnA pradezamAM ghUsaNakhorI gamI nahi. saMgharSa thayo. teoe be gorA mANasone mArI nAkhyA. ethI speniza loko sAvaceta banI gayA. gorAonA rakSaNa mATe ane A pradeza para varcasva jamAvavA mATe teoe eka lazkarI TukaDI taiyAra karI. mAriposAmAM sainikonuM vaDuM mathaka sthapAyuM. emanI beTeliyane krame krame AgaLa vadhI traNa varSamAM AkhI khINano kabajo laI lIdho. AhavAhanIcI lokone khINamAMthI hAMkI kADhavAmAM AvyA. teoe AhavAhanInuM nAma "yosemiTI' rAkhyuM. pharI kanaDagata na thAya e mATe A yuddhane aMte AdivAsIo ane gorAo vacce evA sulehakarAra thayA ke ziyALAnI ThaMDImAM jyAre gorAo nIkaLI gayA hoya tyAre inDiyano tyAM jaI zake. yosemiTInA kSetramAM tyAra pachI relagADI AvI, rastAo banyA, hoTelo thaI. bahAranA lokonuM AvAgamana jema jema vadhatuM gayuM tema tema AhavAhanIcI loko AghA ne AghA khasatA gayA. temAM teonI tenAyA jAtinA nAyakanuM mRtyu thatAM teo veravikhera thatA gayA. ema karatAM ogaNIsamI sadInA uttarArdhamAM yosemiTI pradeza upara gorA lokonuM saMpUrNa varcasva jAmI gayuM. ame yosemiTInA khINavistAramAM judA judA dhodha jyAM paDe che tevA keTalAka mahattvanA dhodha nIcethI joyA. yosemiTI pArkanA vistAramAM 10 karatAM vadhu dhodha che. unALAmAM barapha ogaLatAM te vadhu moTA ane vegavALA bane che. yosemiTI eTale eka vizALa prapAtakSetra. ATalA nAnA kSetramAM ATalA badhA dhodha duniyAmAM bIje kyAMya nathI. ame je judA judA dhodha, pAse jaIne nihALyA temAMno eka moTo dhodha te "yosemiTI dhodha" Azare 2425 phUTa UMco che. te uparathI pahelAM 1430 phUTa nIce paDe che. tyAM nAnuM taLAva bharAya che. e UbharAtAM te eka cheDethI 675 phUTa nIce paDe che. tyAM paNa pharI khAbociyuM bharAya che ane tyAMthI te 320 phUTa nIce paDe che. Ama traNa kaTake paDato A dhodha potAnI AgavI mudrA dhAraNa kare che. 620 phUTa UMcethI paDatA bIjA eka dhodhane "navoDhAno ghUMghaTa' (BRIDALVEIL) kahe che, enuM svarUpa yosemiTI 9 237

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judA ja prakAranuM che. paDatI vakhate je jalasIkaro UDe che ene lIdhe enI AsapAsa dhummasa jevuM vAtAvaraNa sarjAyeluM rahe che. ethI dhodhanI spaSTa AkRti dekhAtI nathI. jANe navoDhAe ghUMghaTa na tANyo hoya ! trIjo eka moTo dhodha te "nevADA dhodha'. pa94 phUTa UMcethI te paDe che. te kadamAM moTo che ane paDe che tyAre jANe vAdaLAMnI garjanA thatI hoya evo avAja saMbhaLAya che. A badhA dhodha bahu najIkanajIkamAM AvelA che. dhodha joyA pachI amAro kAryakrama jaMgalamAM pharavAno hato. jaMgalamAM keTalAka kAcApAkA rastA banAvelA che, paNa tyAM potAnI moTarakAra laI javAnI chUTa nathI. pArka taraphathI khullI TraoNlImAM Aste Aste badhe pheravavAmAM Ave che ane sAthe teno paricaya paNa ApavAmAM Ave che. ame e pramANe DuMgarALa jamInamAM patharAyelA gADha vanamAM pharI AvyA. paraMtu A ja vAta vadhAre vigate samajavI hoya to nizcita sthaLa ane samaye bhomiyo (RANGER) ApaNane keDIe keDIe page cAlIne laI jAya che. ame bhomiyA sAthe paNa be kalAka pharyA. amAro bhomiyo prakRtivizArada ane prakRtipremI hato. e pAMtrIseka varSano haze ! eno laMbagoLa, goro hasamukho cahero, kALA lAMbA vALa, koI koI sveta keza dharAvatI DhaLelI mUcho, dhAtunI phremavALAM jUnI paddhatinAM camAM vagere sahita enI nirdoSa AkRti enA mAyALu svabhAvanI prathama darzane khAtarI karAvatI hatI. enI sAthe keDIe keDIe ame cAlyA. judA judA prakAranAM pha2, pAma, sikoyA (SEQUOIA) vagere vRkSonI khAsiyata eNe amane samajAvI. vRkSanuM AyuSya keTaluM che te jANavAnI vaijJAnika paddhati namUnA sAthe batAvI. bhomiyAe kahyuM ke sikoyA vRkSa traNa hajAra varSathI vadhu jIvI zake che. A vRkSo jema jUnAM thatAM jAya tema enuM thaDa pahoLuM thatuM jAya che. A vRkSo vadhAre jIvI zake che kAraNa ke emAM rahelo Tenika eNsiDa jIvAta lAgavA deto nathI. e eNsiDane kAraNe vRkSa rAtA raMganuM thAya che sikoyA vRkSa sIdhuM UMcuM thAya che. te 350 phUTa karatAM vadhu UMcuM thaI zake che. betraNa sikoyA aDoaDa UgI zake che. eka sikoyA vRkSamAMthI eka vizALa makAnanA pistALIza oraDA mATenuM lAkaDuM maLI rahe che. keTalAMka sikoyAmAM nIce bakhola thAya che. - eka TekarA para eka vRkSa batAvI eNe kahyuM, "A vRkSane ame Teliskopa vRkSa kahIe chIe, kAraNa ke enuM nIcenuM bAkoruM TheTha vRkSanI Toca sudhI jAya che, tame nIce thaDamAM vacce UbhA rahI UMcI najara karo to thaDamAMthI 238 9 pravAsa-darzana

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tamane upara AkAza dekhAze. tamArAmAMthI koIne jovuM hoya to te joI zako cho.' e jovA mATe ghaNA taiyAra thaI gayA, paNa bhomiyAe kahyuM, 'eTaluM dhyAna rAkhajo ke barAbara e ja vakhate koIka pakSI uparathI carakaze to sIdhuM tamArA moDhA para paDaze. ahIM keTalIka vAra evI ghaTanA bane che.' A sAMbhaLatAM ja ghaNAkharA AgaLa vadhyA nahi. ame keTalAka pravAsIo Teliskopa sikoyAmAMthI AkAzadarzana karI AvyA. eka nirALo anubhava thayo. bhomiyAe kahyuM ke, "A jaMgalamAM koI koI vRkSanAM thaDa eTalAM badhAM jADAM che ke varSo pahelAM koI koImAM mANaso vaccethI pasAra thaI zake evAM moTAM bAkorAM karAyAM hatAM. vozabarna nAmanA be bhAIoe gaI sadImAM A vistAramAM 'vAvonA' nAmanI hoTela kharIdI hatI ane pravAsIone AkarSavA mATe eka moTA rAkSasI kadanA vRkSamAM moTarakAra pasAra thaI nAke eTalo moTo bugado banAvyo hato. e bugadAmAMthI pasAra thatI moTarakAramAM potAno phoTo paDAvavA ghaNA pravAsIo AvatA. phoTogrApharo, citrakAro, parvatArohako, zikArIo, sahelANIo ema ghaNA pravAsIo AvavA lAgatAM yosemiTI vistAra Adhunika thavA lAgyo. paNa jemsa mUranI caLavaLa pachI AvI ghaNI pravRttio baMdha paDI che." vaLI bhomiyAe kahyuM ke, "pazupakSIonA zikAra para paNa pratibaMdha Avyo eTale emanI vastI ghaTatI aTakI. A jaMgalamAM have aDhIsothI vadhu jaMgalI moTAM kALAM rIMcha che." "paNa ApaNane to kyAMya dekhAtAM nathI." "divase to teo saMtAIne rahe che. paNa rAtanA potAnA khorAka mATe nIkaLe che. mANasa mATeno khorAka temane eTalo badho bhAve che ke te meLavavA teo bhAre tophAna macAve che, Akramaka banI jAya che. ahIM pharavA AvanArA pravAsIo pAse ke jaMgalamAM taMbu tANIne rahenArA sAhasiko pAse khAvAnuM to hoya ja. e meLavavA rAtane vakhate rIMcho humalA kare che. gADIonA kAca toDIne khAI jAya che. sattAvALAo taraphathI Thera Thera posTara lagADelAM hovA chatAM rojeroja navA navA pravAsIo AvatA hovAthI ghaNAMnI saratacUka thaI jAya che. tamArA mAnyAmAM nahi Ave paNa e hakIkata che ke dara varSe sarerAza cArasothI vadhu gADInA kAca rIMcha dvArA aDadhI rAte tUTe che." yosemiTI * 239

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bhomiyAno kAryakrama pUro thayo. eNe mane jaMgala, vRkSo, pakSIo vagere vize ghaNI mAhitI ApI. saikAo jUnAM, jADA rAtA thaDAvALAM atizaya UMcAM vRkSonA vanamAM viharavAno anubhava koIka judI ja lAgaNI janmAvI gayo hato. samaya thayo hato eTale ame amArI gADImAM mAriposA pAchA AvI pahoMcyA. bIje divase savAre amAro kAryakrama gleziyara paoNInTa javAno hato. yosemiTI khINathI pacAsathI vadhu mAIlano te judo ja rasto hato. gleziyara paoNInTa eTale jyAM gleziyara che te jagyA nahi, paNa jyAMthI sAme gleziyara nihALI zakAya che te jagyA. vacce yosemiTInI moTI khINa AvelI che. gleziyara paoNInTa sAta hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe AveluM che. sAMkaDA raste ghATamAMthI pasAra thatI, upara caDatI amArI gADI paoNInTa pAse pahoMcI gaI. ahIMthI sAmenI parvatamALA joI zakAya che. khINanI dhAra para UbhA rahI jovA mATe judA judA sthaLe karelI vyavasthAmAM pravAsIonI bhIDa satata rahetI hatI. khINa ane parvatamALAnuM dRzya bhavya hatuM. parvatamALAmAM keTalAMka zikharo himAcchAdita hatAM. tyAM sAtathI agiyAra hajAra phUTanI UMcAIvALAM paMdareka zikharo AvelAM che. emAM be zikharo atyaMta mazahUra che. eka pUrNa ghuMmaTa (Full Dome)nA AkAranuM che ane bIjuM ardha ghuMmaTa (Half Dome)nA AkAranuM che. A ardha ghuMmaTanA AkAranuM zikhara atyaMta vilakSaNa zobhA dhAraNa kare che. bhUtakALamAM kAM to vIjaLI paDavAne kAraNe ke dharatIkaMpane kAraNe ke aMdarathI dabANa AvavAne kAraNe ke anya koI kAraNe ghuMmaTanA AkAranuM zikhara vaccethI aDadhuM tUTI gayuM che. paraMtu tUTavAne kAraNe ja e zikharanI zobhA vadhI che. savAranA ke sAMjanA rAtA sUryaprakAzamAM jyAre e zikhara rAto raMga dhAraNa kare che tyAre to enI advitIya zobhA vRddhi pAme che. AvI lAkSaNika AkRti anyatra kyAMya jovA maLatI nathI. mATe to yosemiTInA sattAvAra pratIka tarIke A ardha ghuMmaTa (Half Dome)nI AkRti rAkhavAmAM AvI che. A sthaLethI sAme anya zikharomAM TopalI (Basket) AkAranuM zikhara, pratidhvani (Echo) zikhara, vAdaLAMne ArAma (Cloud Rest) levA mATenuM zikhara vagere zikharo jovA maLe che. taduparAMta yosemiTI dhodha, nevADA dhodha vagerenuM uparathI nIce sudhInuM umaMgabharyA utarANanuM dazya prasannatApreraka banI rahe che. yosemiTI khINanuM, pArkiMga vistAromAM UbhelI, uparathI ramakaDAM jevI lAgatI moTaragADIo sahitanuM vihaMgadarzana, nIce 240 4 pravAsa-darzana WWW.jainelibrary.org

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karatAM uparathI vadhu vistRta ane surekha banI rahe che. gleziyara poInTa na jaIe to yosemiTIno pUro khayAla na Ave. gleziyara paoNInTa tathA anya keTalAMka sthaLa joI ame pAchA mAriposAnA amArA mukAme AvyA. have bIje divase amAro kAryakrama TAyogA ghATa jovA javAno hato. tyAM javA mATe paNa hoTelathI soeka mAIlanuM aMtara kApavAnuM hatuM. nIcethI Azare dasa hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe pahoMcavAnuM hatuM. sAMkaDo, vaLAMko leto satata caDhANavALo mArga kApatAM vAra lAge ja, paNa tyAMnI nirmaLa, tAjhagIsabhara havA thAkane utArI de evI hatI. pAMceka hajAranI UMcAI pachI rastAnI baMne bAju koI koI sthaLe barapha dekhAvo cAlu thayo. amane jANavA maLyuM hatuM ke TAyogA ghATamAM rastA para jAmelo barapha haju gayA aThavADiye ja khaseDavAmAM Avyo hato. rastAnI kinAra para eka-doDha phUTa jeTalI baraphanI kApelI dhAra dekhAtI hatI. barapha ogALavA rastA paranA barapha para nAkhelA mIThAne kAraNe dhoLA lisoTA rahI gayelA kyAMka kyAMka dekhAtA hatA. barapha jotAM ja nAcI UThelA amArAM pautra-pautrI arcita-acirAe haTha lIdhI ke kyAMka jagyA maLe to gADI UbhI rAkhavI. teone baraphamAM ramavuM hatuM. ame paNa chokarAMono pakSa lIdho, paNa gADI calAvanAra putra amitAbhe kahyuM, "haju pAMtrIsa mAIla javAnuM bAkI che. AgaLa kevo rasto Avaze te khabara nathI. eka vakhata TAyogA ghATa pahoMcI jaIe. pachI pAchA pharatAM samayanI anukULatA pramANe pharI zakAze.' jema jema AgaLa ame vadhatA gayA tema tema baraphanA vadhu ane vadhu lalacAvanArAM nAnAM nAnAM medAno AvatAM gayAM. have to bALako uparAMta putravadhU surabhie paNa Agraha karyo ke kyAMka thobhI jaIe ane baraphamAM ramIe, paNa cakradhara gADI roke to ne ? alabatta, jema jema ame AgaLa vadhatA gayA tema tema vadhAre manohara medAno AvatAM gayAM. svaccha zveta baraphanAM A medAno vize enAthI ajANa vyaktine to jANe A mIThAnA agara hoya evuM dRzya lAge athavA dhoLuM dhoLuM rU pAtharyuM hoya evuM lAge. ema karatAM ame TAyogA ghATa AvI pahoMcyA. pArkiMga vistAramAM gADI UbhI rahI. have kalAkano ArAma hato. ahIM baraphanAM vizALa medAno je maLyAM te pUrvenAM medAnone bhulAvI de evAM hatAM. baraphamAM cAlatAM sAcavavuM bahuM paDe. Dagale ne pagale lapasI paDavAnI dhAstI. poco poco yosemiTI * 241

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barapha hAthamAM laI, mUThImAM goLo banAvI ekabIjAne te mAravAnI majhA anokhI che. goLo vAgatAM barapha tarata chUTo paDI jAya, eTale vAge kharuM, paNa nahi jevuM. A evuM sthaLa hatuM ke jyAM pautra-pautrI dAdAjIne paNa goLA mArI zake. alabatta, baraphamAM AvI ramata vadhAre vakhata ramavAthI AMgaLAM thIjI jAya ane pachIthI sakhata du:khavA lAge. ahIM dasa hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe havA saheja pAtaLI hatI. ATalI UMcAIe pahelI vAra AvanArane jo svAsthya barAbara na hoya to cAlatAM thAka lAge. cakkara Ave ke becenI paNa lAge. pAtaLI havAthI phephasAM TevAI jAya pachI vAMdho na Ave. ame peTapUjA to gADImAM thoDI thoDI vAre karatA rahyA hatA, paraMtu have bhUkha lAgI hatI eTale eka sthaLe besI bhojanane paNa nyAya Apyo. paryAvaraNa sAcavavAnI dRSTithI ahIM koI resTorAM karavAmAM AvI nathI eTale sAthe lAvelo AhAra ja levAno hato. TAyogA ghATamAM ja keliphorniyA rAjyanI hada pUrI thAya che ane nevADA rAjyanI hada zarU thAya che. e cekanAkuM vaTAvI ame nevADA rAjyamAM paNa thoDA mAIla sudhI AMTo mArI AvyA. e bAju eka nAnuM sarovara hatuM. e haju thIjeluM ja hatuM. eno thoDoka ba2pha sUryaprakAzamAM ogaLIne pANI thayo hato. gherA vAdaLI raMganA e pANImAM paNa chUTAchavAyA baraphanA TukaDA nihALI zakAtA hatA. sarovaranI pAchaLa pAIna, phara, sedAra vagerenAM UMcAM UMcAM vRkSoe dRzyane vadhu nayanaramya banAvyuM hatuM. kharekhara, TAyogA ghATanuM darzana amAre mATe eka apUrva darzana hatuM ! yosemiTImAM anyatra mANasonI ane ethIye vizeSa gADIonI jeTalI bhIDa jovA maLatI teTalI TAyogA ghATamAM jovA na maLI. niraMtara gADIonA pravAhavALA rastA para aDadhA kalAkathI koI navI gADI AvI nahotI. lagabhaga traNeka vAge ame pAchA pharyA. thoDAka mAIla gayAM hoIzuM tyAM amArI AgaLa cAlatI gADIonI gati maMda paDatI jaNAI. ghATanA sAMkaDA rastAmAM eka gADI dhImI cAle to pAchaLanI badhI gADIo dhImI paDI jAya. paNa pachI to AgaLanI gADIo UbhI rahI gaI, ame paNa UbhA rahyA ane pAchaLa AvatI gADIonI hAra paNa moTI thaI gaI. vAhanavyavahAra sthagita thaI gayo. vaLAMkavALA parvatIya rastA para dUra dUra dekhAya tyAM sudhI gADIo UbhelI hatI. keTalIka gADIonA pravAsIo 242 * pravAsa-darzana

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gADImAMthI UtarIne rastA para TahelatA hatA e parathI lAgyuM ke gADIo jaladI cAlI zake ema nahi hoya. ame paNa gADImAMthI UtaryA. anya pravAsIo sAthe vAtacIta karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke vaLAMkavALA sAMkaDA rastA para be gADIo sAmasAmI bhaTakAtAM moTo akasmAta thayo che. TrAphika cAlu thatAM traNeka kalAka nIkaLI jaze. have pharajiyAta ArAma karavA sivAya chUTako nahoto. parvatanA sAMkaDA rastA para akasmAta thAya ane gADIonI hAra betraNa mAIla jeTalI thaI jAya to polIsanI gADI tyAM pahoMce kevI rIte ? paNa akasmAtanI jANa thatAM TrAphika polIsa helikopTaramAM AvI pahoMcI. akasmAtamAM cAra mANasa ghAyala thayA hatA. baMne gADI calAvanArane gaMbhIra IjA thaI hatI. pahelAM pherAmAM teone nIce haoNspiTalamAM laI javAyA ane bIjA pherAmAM bIjA bene. tyAra pachI bhAMgelI gADIone eka bAju khaseDIne eka gADI jaI zake eTalo rasto karavAmAM Avyo. baMne bAju vArApharatI thoDI thoDI gADIo choDavAmAM AvI. sAMja paDI gaI hatI ane ujAsa ocho thaI gayo hato. akasmAtanA sthaLa AgaLathI amArI gADI pasAra thaI. bhayaMkara akasmAta hato. gaMbhIra rIte ghavAyelA bacaze ke kema e vize zaMkA hatI. dhAryA karatAM amane hoTela para pAchA pharatAM cAra kalAkano vilaMba thaI gayo. adyatana sAdhanovALo deza eTale samaya ocho bagaDyo. amane thayuM ke sAruM karyuM ke pahelAM TAyogA pahoMcyA. rastAmAM samaya bagADyo hota to TAyogA ghATa jovAno rahI jAta. vaLate divase yosemiTInA anubhavonI vAto karatAM karatAM ame kuparaTino pAchA pharyA. yosemiTIno pravAsa amAre mATe eka yAdagAra pravAsa banI rahyo. (pArasaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) yosemiTI * 243

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33 sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa (yu. esa. e.) duniyAnuM vidyamAna moTAmAM moTuM - bhImakAya vRkSa karyuM jene "janarala zaramana" evuM nAma apAyuM che te sikoyA (Sequoia) vRkSa. (sikoyA zabda "sikayA", "sekayA', "sekoIyA' tarIke paNa uccArAya dharatI para dIrdhAyuSya bhogavanArAM vRkSomAM paNa sikoyAnI gaNanA thAya che. ApaNAM vaDa, pIpaLo, lImaDo, AMbo vagere baso-traNaso varSa jUnAM hoI zake. keTalAMka vRkSo hajAreka varSa sudhI astitva TakAvI zake che. sikoyA traNa hajArathI vadhu varSa jIvI zake che. amerikAnuM 'brisala kona pAIna' vRkSa cAra hajAra karatAM vadhu varSathI aDIkhama UbhuM che. "janarala zaramana (Sherman - zeramAna uccAra paNa thAya che) vRkSa hevI veITa to che ja, paNa sikoyAmAM te "siniyara mosTa' paNa che. traNa hajAra varSa to te kyAranuMya vaTAvI cUkyuM che. sikoyA amerikAmAM keliphorniyA ane nevADA rAjyamAM pAMcathI sAta hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe UganAruM vRkSa che. tyAMnA "yosemiTI', "sikoyA pArka' vageremAM AvAM bRhadakAya sikoyA saMkhyAbaMdha jovA maLe che. amerikAnI mArI eka mulAkAta daramiyAna tyAM rahetAM mArAM pautrapautrI arcita ane acirAe eka divasa mArI samakSa prastAva mUkyo : dAdAjI ! ApaNe AvatA zani-ravi "sikoyA pArka' jaIzuM? amArA TIcare 244 4 pravAsa-darzana

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kahyuM che. skUlamAM hamaNAM amane sikoyA vize zIkhavavAmAM AvyuM che. ApaNe haju sikoyAnuM nAma paNa na sAMbhaLyuM hoya tyAM ATha varSano arcita ane cha varSanI acirA ane emanI zALAnA vidyArthIo sikoyA vize jANakArI dharAvatAM hoya e kevI Azcarya ane AnaMdanI vAta kahevAya ! ApaNe tyAM ja nahi, bIjA keTalAye dezomAM mAtra vidyArthIo ja nahi, moTI uMmaranA mANaso suddhAM potAnA AMgaNAmAM UgelAM vRkSonAM nAma jANatA nathI hotA, e paNa AzcaryanI vAta gaNAvI joIe. vRkSo ane velaDIo, parNo ane puSpo, pazuo ane paMkhIo, AkAzanA tArA ane graho A badhA vize emanAM nAma jANavA jeTalI ApaNI darakAra paNa keTalI badhI ochI che ! pachI prakRti sAthenuM ApaNuM tAdAmya kyAMthI vadhe ? A viSayamAM ApaNI daridratA ApaNane sAlavI joIe. ApaNA jIvanavikAsamAM vRkSonuM yogadAna keTaluM moTuM che ! ApaNA keTalAye mahAtmAone jJAnanI upalabdhi vRkSa nIce thaI che! sikoyAnI vAta sAMbhaLI meM tarata sikoyA pArka javA mATe saMmati darzAvI, eTale tyAM javAno kAryakrama tarata goThavAI gayo. sAlphrAnsisko pAsenA kuparaTino zaherathI ame saparivAra UpaDyA. rastAmAM eksaTara nAmanA nAnA nagaranI eka moTelamAM rAtrimukAma karIne vahelI savAre sikoyA pArka javA nIkaLyA. rastA para avarajavara ochI hatI. vAtAvaraNamAM preraka zItalatA hatI. rastAnI baMne bAju saMtarAMnI vADIo AvatI gaI. svayameva UgelAM nahi paNa yojanAbaddha rIte vyAvasAyika dhoraNe ugADelAM hArabaMdha seMkaDo vRkSo para kesarI raMganAM bharacaka saMtarAM laTakatAM ane keTalAMye nIce paDI saDI jatAM nihALavA e paNa anokho anubhava che. AgaLa jatAM caDhANa cAlu thayuM. khAkhI raMganA vRkSavihIna DuMgarAonI vaccethI rasto UMce paDato jato hato. kyAMka taLAvo dekhAtAM hatAM. kyAMka dhumADiyA rIMcha (Smoky Bear) jovA maLatAM hatAM. kyAMka moTAM ziMgaDAMvALAM gheTAM najare paDatAM hatAM. kyAMka vacce vahetuM khaLakhaLa pANI himAlayanI yAda apAvatuM hatuM. pArkanuM pravezadvAra AvyuM. phI bharIne ame dAkhala thayA. AvA nezanala pArka eTale mAIlono vistAra. rastAmAM eka bAju sAruM majabUta makAna toDI paDAtuM ame joyuM. prazna thayo ke ahIM jagyAnI taMgI nathI ane makAna kazAne naDatuM nathI, to pachI kema toDI paDAtuM haze ? kAraNa ke jaMgalo vagere naisargika sthaLo vize gaI sadInI ane vartamAna samayanI sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa jhaH 245

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vicAraNAmAM pharaka paDyo che. jUnA vakhatamAM prakRtiramya sthaLa paryaTana mATe pasaMda thatuM. tyAM javA-AvavA mATe pAkA rastA, sarasa makAno, gharo, moTI moTI hoTelo, dukAno, rahevA tathA khAvApIvAnI sagavaDo ityAdi UbhAM karavAnuM yogya jaNAtuM. paryaTana ane manoraMjanane prAdhAnya apAtuM. have AvA pArkamAM paryAvaraNane prAdhAnya apAya che. vRkSo sacavAvAM joIe. pazupakSIo bhAgI javAM na joIe. eno zikAra na thavo joIe. rastAo jarUra pUratA ane te paNa kAcA rAkhavA joIe. anivArya hoya tyAM ja pAkA banAvavA. khAvApIvAnI ane zaucAdinI sagavaDo paNa anivArya hoya eTalI ja UbhI karavI joIe. jaMgalomAM paryAvaraNanA bhoge paryaTana kendro vikasAvavAno khayAla have bhUlabharelo gaNAya che. eTale ja A pArkamAM ghaNAM sArAM sArAM makAno pADI nAkhavAmAM AvyAM che. A sikoyA nezanala pArkanI sthApanA I. sa. 1890mAM thaI hatI. tyAra pachI A pArkano vistAra vakhatovakhata vadhArAto gayo. kaeNliphorniyAmAM yosemiTIne nezanala pArkano darajjo apAvavAmAM mukhya kArya karanAra prakRtipremI lekhaka jona mUre sikoyA pArkanA vikAsamAM paNa mahattvanuM kArya karyuM hatuM. te vakhate enuM nAma "janarala grAnTa pArka' evuM rakhAyuM hatuM, paraMtu tyAra pachI pArkano vistAra ghaNo vadhyo. eTale ene "sikoyA naeNzanala pArka' evuM nAma apAyuM. vaLI bAjunA khINanA pradezane paNa pArkano darajjo apAyo ane enuM nAma "kiMgsa kenyana pArka" 2khAyuM. vakhata jatAM A baMne pArkane joDI devAmAM AvyA che. pAkanuM naisargika vAtAvaraNa barAbara jaLavAI rahe e mATe sarakAra ane vyavasthApako bahu sabhAna rahyAM che. - ame mAhitI kendra pAse pahoMcyAM. gADI pArka karIne emAM dAkhala thayA. pUchaparacha kAryAlayanI baMne bAju vizALa haoNlamAM sthAyI pradarzana jevuM hatuM. ame pArkano nakazo laI abhyAsa karyo. ahIM potAnI gADImAM besI dUra dUranAM mahattvanAM sthaLo jAte marajI mujaba joI zakAya che. taduparAMta bhomiyA (Ranger) sAthe nizcita samaye page cAlatAM cAlatAM keDIe keDIe bhamI zakAya che. ame pahelAM renjara - bhomiyAvALA kAryakramamAM joDAvAnuM nakkI karyuM. jeone A kAryakramamAM joDAvuM hoya teo badhA tyAM ekatra thayA hatA. e mATe kazI phI ApavAnI nahotI. loko rasa letA thAya ane rasika lokone adhikRta jANakArI, najare jovA sAthe maLI rahe e ja A dainika kAryakrama pAchaLa Ayojakono Azaya che. samaya thatAM be bhomiyA tyAM AvI 246 eka pravAsa-darzana

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pahoMcyA. eka yuvaka ane eka yuvatI. yuvakanuM nAma hatuM 'TIma' ane yuvatInuM nAma hatuM 'kerola hAkujo'. aTaka ane mukhAkRti parathI yuvatI jApAnI lAgatI hatI, paNa tenA uccAro parathI te amerikAmAM ja janmI ane bhaNI haze evuM anumAna thayuM. aMgata prazna na pUchAya chatAM utsukatA khAtara pUchatAM amAruM anumAna sAcuM paDyuM. baMne renjare mAthe TopI sahita khAkhI yuniphaoNrma paheryo hato. temanA zarTane cAra moTAM khissAM hatAM. dareka khissAmAM pravAsIone samajAvavA, batAvavA kaMIka cIjavastuo rAkhelI hatI. vaLI temanI pAse hevaraseka baeNga hatI. e paNa bharelI hatI. baMne renja2nA caherA komaLa, saumya, prasanna ane zAMta hatA. baMne prakRtipremI jaNAyA. A kAma mATe teoe tAlIma lIdhI hatI. koI prazna pUche to teo rAjI thaIne sasmita javAba ApatA. pravAsIonAM be jUtha ka2vAmAM AvyAM. eka jUtha TIma sAthe jAya ane bIjuM jUtha hAkujA sAthe jAya. doDha-be kalAke pAchA AvyA pachI baMne jUthanI adalAbadalI thAya. ame pahelAM 'TIma' sAthe joDAyA. thoDuM cAlIe ane thoDI vAra UbhA rahIe evo teono krama hato ke jethI koIne thAka na lAge. TIme kahyuM, 'kaeNliphaoNrniyA ane nevADA rAjyamAM sikoyA vRkSanAM poNosothI adhika jhuMDa (Grove) che. emAM pAMcapaMdara varSanAM bAlavRkSo che, basopAMcaso varSanAM yuvAna vRkSo che ane be-traNa hajAra varSanAM vayovRddha vRkSo paNa che. keTalAka mANasonA caherA parathI enI uMmarano aMdAja jema nathI Avato tema sikoyAnI uMmaramAM paNa ApaNe bhUlathApa khAI jaIe.' TIme amane UMcuM paNa pAtaLI soTI jevuM lIluMchama vRkSa batAvIne pUchyuM, 'A sikoyAnI uMmara keTalI haze ?' ame kahyuM ke, 'pahelAM to e sikoyA jevuM lAgatuM ja nathI. paNa sikoyA ja jo che to enI uMmara traNacAra varSanI haze.' TIme kahyuM. 'nA, enI uMmara poNoso varSathI vadhu che.' 'paNa ame ema kema mAnI laIe ?' 'huM mArA gharanuM nathI hAMkato ke tamArI majAka nathI karato. sikoyAnI uMmara jANavAnI vaijJAnika paddhati che. enA paDamAM cheda pADI, enA koSonAM vartuLono keTalo vikAsa thayo che enI gaNatarI karIne uMmarano aMdAja kADhavAmAM Ave che.' pachI vRkSanA 'sikoyA' nAmanI vAta karatAM bhomiyAe kahyuM, 'sAmAnya rIte iMgliza bhASAmAM vRkSonAM nAma laeNTina athavA grIka bhASA parathI sioyAnI zikhAmaNa * 247

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AvyAM che, paNa "sikoyA' zabda e rIte nathI Avyo. e chellA doDha be saikA jeTalo jUno che. sikoyA vRkSa to traNa hajAra ke tethI vadhu varSathI prAcIna che. bhUtakALanA saikAo daramiyAna bhinna bhinna yuganI AdivAsI prajA ene bhinna bhinna nAmathI oLakhatI AvI haze. e vize ApaNI pAse kazI ja AdhArabhUta mAhitI nathI. arvAcIna "sikoyA' nAma kevI rIte paDyuM enI rasika daMtakathA che. jUnA vakhatamAM A vistAramAM je AdivAsIo (InDiyano) rahetA hatA te 'cirokI' jAtinA hatA. Aje paNa temanA vaMzajo A vistAramAM chUTAchavAyA jovA maLe che. e cirokI lokonA netAnuM nAma hatuM 'si koha yAha'. te bahu lokapriya hato. eNe potAnA lokone saMskArI banAvyA, bhAIcAro vadhAryo ane potAnI bhASAnuM sAMketika akSarajJAna ApyuM. enA avasAna pachI e jAtinA lokoe enI yAdagIrI tarIke vRkSomAM netA samAna A vRkSane "sikoha yAha' evuM nAma ApyuM. tyArathI "sikoyA' zabda pracalita thaI gayo che. AgaLa jatAM eka sthaLe amane badhAne vartuLAkAre UbhA rAkhI bhomiyAe potAnA thelAmAMthI eka jADo lAMbo kharabacaDo lAkaDAno TukaDo kADhyo. sikoyAnA jhADanI chAlano e TukaDo hato. pachI eNe eka gesabarnara kADhyuM. gaeNsa peTAvIne enA upara chAlano TukaDo baLavA mATe eka cheDethI hAthamAM dharyo. lAkaDuM to tarata baLe ane dhumADA nIkaLe, paraMtu khAssI vAra rAkhavA chatAM e chAla baLI nahi. eNe kahyuM, "A TukaDo baLyo nathI, paNa e keTalo garama che te jovA tamArAmAMthI koNa hAthamAM leze ?' dajhAvAnI bIke koIe tatparatA batAvI nahi. eTale e garama TukaDo eNe potAnI ja hatheLImAM mUkyo ane hatheLI dabAvI. jANe kazuM thayuM na hoya evuM lAgyuM. ethI amArAmAM hiMmata AvI. badhAe eno sparza karI joyo. dajhAyuM nahi. bhomiyAe kahyuM, "A ja sikoyAnI khUbI che. tajanA raMga jevA raMgavALI A chAla evA guNavALI che ke te Aga pakaDatI nathI. ThaMDI, garamI ke varasAdanI koI mAThI asara chAla upara thatI nathI. eTale ja jaMgalamAM Aga lAge, Bush Fire thAya to sikoyAnA vRkSane baLI maravAno jarA paNa Dara nahi. comera bhaDabhaDa baLatA agni vacce paNa sikoyAnuM vRkSa svastha ane prasanna rahe che." sikoyAnuM eka DIMDavuM (Cone-jIMDavuM) batAvI bhomiyAe vaLI eka vizeSa vAta kahI. sikoyAnAM A jaMgalomAM pahelAMnA vakhatamAM Aga lAgatI to te olavI nAkhavAmAM AvatI, ema mAnIne ke ethI sikoyAnAM vRkSone 248 pravAsa-darzana

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nukasAna pahoMcaze, paraMtu have A khayAla badalAI gayo che. vanaspatizAstrIoe evuM saMzodhana karyuM che ke Aga to sikoyA mATe upakAraka che. AgathI sikoyA baLatuM nathI, paNa enAM DIMDavAMmAMthI enAM bI chUTAM paDI UDe che ane dUra dUra sudhI paDelAM e bImAMthI navAM sikoyA Uge che. eTale sikoyAnI prajotpatti mATe Aga AvakAradAyaka che. paNa Aga na lAge to ? to paNa sikoyA Uge che, kAraNa ke A vRkSomAM khisakolIo ghaNI hoya che. tene DIMDavAM bahu bhAve che. te DIMDavAM phoDI khAya che tyAre enAM bI AsapAsa verAya che. prakRtimAM badhI vyavasthA goThavAyelI hoya che. - sikoyAne taDako sAro joIe. ThaMDI, varasAda, barapha vagere paNa ene bahu game. e traNaso-savA traNaso phUTa jeTaluM sIdhuM UcuM TaTAra vadhatuM jAya. enuM thaDa ghaNo UMce sudhI DALa vagaranuM hoya. enI DALIo lacelI ke namelI nahi, paNa koI lazkarI javAna kavAyata karatI vakhate hAtha sIdho laMbAve evI hoya che. vRkSa jema moTuM thatuM jAya tema DALa moTI thatI jAya. hajAra varSa jUnA sikoyAnI DALa daseka phUTa jADI ane trIseka phUTa lAMbI hoya che, jANe vRkSa upara bIjuM ADuM vRkSa UgyuM na hoya ! sikoyA vaDa, AMbA ke lImaDA jevuM chatrAkAra, ghaTAdAra vRkSa nathI, paNa enI DALIomAM pAMdaDAMonAM chUTAM chUTAM jhUmakhAM hoya che. moTA sikoyAnI chAla paMdara-pacIsa iMca jADI hoya che. A chAlanA rakSaNathI ane emAMthI nIkaLatA Tenika esiDathI jaMturahita rahevAne lIdhe sikoyAne dIrdhAyuSya sAMpaDe che. vaLI Tenika eNsiDane lIdhe sikoyAnI chAlano raMga ratAza paDato, geru jevo thAya che. A raMgane kAraNe sikoyAnuM vRkSa koI bhagavAdhArI dhyAnastha saMnyAsI jevuM lAge. eTale ja sikoyA pAsenA vAtAvaraNamAM koI adbhuta zAnti ane preraka prasannatA anubhavAya che. renjare amane keDIe keDIe pharatAM pharatAM vividha vanaspatino pratyakSa paricaya karAvyo. amArAM arcita ane acirAe paNa emAM sarakho rasa lIdho. ame pAchA pharyA. be kalAkanA virAma pachI renjara hAkujA sAme javAnuM hatuM. virAma daramiyAna pArkamAM prakRtikendra (Nature Center)mAM bAra varSa sudhInAM bALako mATe rojeroja eka kalAka mATe varga calAvavAmAM Ave che. e mATe agAuthI nAma noMdhAvavAnI jarUra nathI ane e mATe kazI phI paNa nathI. UgatI prajA prakRtimAM vadhu rasa letI thAya, prakRtipremI bane ane paryAvaraNa mATe temanAmAM sabhAnatA Ave e ja eno Azaya sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa = 249

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che. amArAM arcita ane acirA emAM joDAI gayAM. pacAseka bALako AvyAM hatAM. eka renjara bhAI ane bahena e varga levAnAM hatAM. vaDIlone besavAnI chUTa hatI eTale eka bAju rakhAyelI khurazIomAM ame paNa beThAM. baMne renjaroe A jaMgalamAM jovA maLatAM vRkSo, velAo, prANIo, jIvajaMtuo ityAdinI khAsiyatonA phoTAo, citro, cIjavastuo vagere dvArA sarasa paricaya karAvyo. teonI keTalIka paddhati viziSTa hatI. udAharaNa tarIke hArabaMdha judAM judAM khAnAMomAM pratyekamAM koIka vastu mUkI hatI. baMdha khAnAmAM upara rAkhelA moTA kANAmAM bALake hAtha nAkhIne aMdaranI vastuno sparza karIne kahevAnuM ke te zuM haze. tyAra pachI badhAM khAnAM kholI nAkhavAmAM Ave. koIkamAM paththara, koIkamAM lAkaDAno TukaDo, koIkamAM rIMchanI cAmaDI, jhADanI chAla, khisakolInI pUMchaDI, sikoyAnuM DIMDavuM, pAMdaDAM, ghAsa vagere hatAM. e joIne potAnA javAba keTalA sAcA paDyA che tenI bALakone khabara paDI jAya. tyAra pachI bALakone praznapatranI eka pustikA ApavAmAM AvI. emAM ghaNA badhA prazno hatA, paNa bharatAM vAra lAge ema nahotuM, kAraNa ke sAcA javAba 52 nizAnI karavAnI hatI. arcita ane acirAM te bharIne mAhitIkendramAM ApI AvyAM. samaya thayo eTale ame joDAyA renjara kerola hAkujA sAthe. eka jApAnI yuvatI AvA kSetramAM vyAvasAyika dhoraNe joDAya e AzcaryanI vAta hatI. vastuta: eno vyavasAya prakRtipremano paryAya banI gayo hato. enI saumya, prasanna mukhAkRti ja kudarata sAthenA enA tAdAtmyanI sAkSI pUratI hatI. enA amerikana anunAsika uccAromAM mAdhurya varatAtuM hatuM. te amane pahelAM laI gaI eka sUtelA eTale ke jamInadosta thayelA sikoyAnA thaDa pAse. vRkSanuM thaDa keTaluM badhuM jADuM ane moTuM hoI zake eno vAstavika khayAla ApavA mATe A eka dRzya ja pUratuM gaNAya. thaDa jotAM ja lAge ke jANe kuMbhakarNa na sUto hoya ! saikAothI paDeluM thaDa aMdarathI poluM thaI gayuM che. pachI to mANasoe aMdarathI kApIne e polANane vyavasthita ghATa Apyo che. ame emAM dAkhala thayA. jANe lAMbuM moTuM bhoMyaruM ! ajavALuM Ave e mATe emAM kyAMka kyAMka bAkorAM karyAM che. jUnA vakhatamAM ahIMnA AdivAsIoe eno upayoga ghara tarIke karelo. ThaMDI, garamI, varasAda, barapha, vAvAjhoDuM, vIjaLI, hiMsaka jaMgalI prANIo vagere sAme emAM rakSaNa maLI zakatuM. pachI amerikana zikArIo AvyA. teo aMdara rahetA ane rAtane vakhate potAnA ghoDAone paNa aMdara bAMdhatA. ghoDAnA 250 * pravAsa-darzana

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tabelA tarIke eno upayoga thato. paMdara-sattara ghoDA khuzIthI emAM rahI zake. pachI AvyA sAhasiko, zodhasApharIo, vepArIo vagere. teoe emAM khurazI Tebala goThavyAM. khANIpINInI resTorAM emAM thaI. dArUno bAra paNa thayo. tyAra pachI jyAre nezanala pArkanI sthApanA thaI tyAre A bhUgarbhathaDagarbha pravRttio baMdha karAvavAmAM AvI. eka aitihAsika avazeSa tarIke enI jALavaNI cAlu thaI. A sikoyA vRkSa jIvatuM haze tyAre bicArAne kalpanA paNa nahi hoya ke enA avasAna pachI mAnavajAta enA peTamAM kevAM kevAM oparezana karaze ! bhomiyA hAkujA tyAra pachI amane laI gaI A pArkanAM be vayovRddha vaDIla sikAyA pAse. ekane nAma ApavAmAM AvyuM che "janarala grAnTa sikoyA', bIjAnuM nAma che "janarala zeramAna sikoyA." e bemAM zeramAna sikoyA siniyara yAne kAlayeSTha che. traNa hajAra karatAM vadhu varSathI te A pArkamAM hasatuM UbhuM che. duniyAmAM sauthI vadhu AyuSya bhogavI rahelA sikoyA tarIke enI gaNanA thAya che. enuM zarIra adodaLuM thaI gayuM che, paNa eno kArDiyogrAma normala che. te Azare 275 phUTa UMcuM che. jamIna para enA thaDano gherAvo 130 phUTa jeTalo che. enA samagra lAkaDAno aMdAja 1,400 Tana jeTalo mUkavAmAM Ave che. ApaNane prazna thAya ke ATalA badhA vajanavALuM uttuMga vRkSa bhayaMkara vAvAjhoDAmAM paNa UkhaDI na jatAM potAnI samatulA barAbara jALavIne kevI rIte UbhuM rahI zakatuM haze ? enuM kAraNa e che ke sikoyA potAnAM mULiyAMne barAbara majabUta rIte comera prasarAve che. samatulA jALavavA mATe UMDANa uparAMta vistAra paNa mahattvano che. enAM mULa jamInamAM cArapAca phUTa jeTalAM nIce jAya che, paNa eka ekara jeTalA vistAramAM te prasare che. eTale ja AvuM rAkSasI vRkSa saikAo sudhI TaTAra UbhuM rahe che. hAkujAe kahyuM ke, "sikoyA ApaNane samajAve che ke jIvanamAM samatulA jALavavI hoya to daDhamUla banavuM joIe." - sikoyA ane reDavuDa vRkSa baMne eka ja jAtinAM geru raMganAM dIrghajIvI vRkSo che, chatAM, hAkujAe kahyuM ke sikoyA e reDavuDa nathI. vanaspatizAstrIo baMne vacceno taphAvata batAve che ke reDavuDa vadhAre UMcAM, pAtaLAM ane uparathI zaMku AkAranAM hoya che. tenuM AyuSya vadhumAM vadhu be hajAra varSanuM hoya che. sikoyA jADAM ane uparathI gucchAdAra hoya che ane traNa hajAra varSathI paNa vadhu jIvI zake che. reDavuDanAM bI TameTAMnAM bI jevAM hoya che. ane sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa 251

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sikoyAnAM bI maganAM photarAM jevAM hoya che. eka paripakavA sikoyA para ekasAthe dasa hajArathI vadhu DIMDavAM (cones) thAya che ane eka DIMDavAmAM basothI vadhu bI hoya che. kudaratanI kevI karAmata che te to juo ke maganA photarA jeTalA eka bIjamAMthI dasa lAkha kilogrAma karatAM vadhu vajananuM lAkaDuM dharAvatuM sikoyAnuM virATa vRkSa utpanna thAya che. sikoyA paNa lAkho bI kudaratane pAchAM Ape che. hAkujAe kahyuM, "sikoyAnuM vRkSa ApaNane upadeza Ape che ke kudarate tamane je premathI ApyuM che te aneka gaNuM karIne kudaratane pAchuM Apo. udAra bano, svArthI na bano capaTI capaTI na Apo, mUThA ne mUThA bharIne athavA khobale khobale bIjAne Apo.' vaLI hAkujAe kahyuM ke, "sikoyAnuM vRkSa ApaNane zikhAmaNa Ape che ke jIvanamAM samatA jevuM koI tattva nathI. ThaMDI, garamI, varasAda barapha ane karA, vIjaLI ane vAvAjhoDuM, jaMgalanI Aga ane evA evA bhayaMkara upasargo sAme je svasthatAthI samatApUrvaka aNanama rahe che te ATaluM nirAmaya dIrdhAyuSya bhogave che. game tevI pratikULa paristhitino pratikArarahita svIkAra e jIvana jIvavAnI zreSTha cAvI che." amane sikoyAnI zikhAmaNamAM bhAratIya tattvajJAnano dhabakAra saMbhaLAto hato. hAkujAe sikoyAnA jIvanamAMthI tAraveluM rahasya hRdayaMgama hatuM. enI sAthenI saphara pUrI karI ame sau mAhitI kendramAM AvyA. A kendramAM phoTAo, nakazAo, vividha cIjavastuonuM nAnA saMgrahasthAna jevuM Ayojana thayeluM che. ame e jovAmAM magna hatA tyAM mAIka upara jAherAta thaI : "sajjano ane sannArIo ! amAre atyAre pAMca miniTanI eka aupacArika vidhi karavAnI che, to Apa badhAne amArA kAunTara pAse padhAravA vinaMtI che.' zI vidhi karavAnI haze enI khabara nahotI, paNa badhA pravAsIo ekatra thavA lAgyA ane utsukatApUrvaka rAha jovA lAgyA. tyAM mAIkamAM jAherAta thaI : "arcita ane acirA jyAM hoya tyAMthI kAunTara pAse Ave.' ame vicAramAM paDyAM. arcita-acirAne ame tyAM mokalyAM evAmAM eka oNphisara AvyA. temaNe jAherAta karI : "Aje ApaNe bALakono je varga lIdho hato ane prazanapatrikA ApI hatI, te badhI amArI pAse AvI gaI che ane tapAsAI gaI che. amane jaNAvatAM AnaMda thAya che ke arcita ane acirA A baMne bALakone somAMthI so mArksa maLe che. eTale baMnene "juniyara renjara avaoNrDa' maLe che. baMnene te mATe ame billo paherAvIzuM. pachI arcitane Raven Award 252 traH pravAsa-darzana

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paherAvavAmAM Avyo, jemAM Raven (kAgaDo)nuM citra hatuM ane acirAne Jay Award paherAvavAmAM Avyo, jemAM Jay (koyala jevuM pakSI)nuM citra hatuM. tALIonA gaDagaDATathI soe A vidhi vadhAvI lIdhI. bALakone protsAhita karavA mATe pArkanA adhikArIonuM A kevuM daSTipUrvakanuM suMdara Ayojana ! sikoyA pArkanA pravAsano A anubhava amArA mATe smRtimAM saMgharI rAkhavA jevo banI gayo. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3) sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa 4- 253

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34 pherabaeNksanAM nensI homabarga (alAskA - yu. esa. e.) alAskA eTale amerikAnAM rAjyomAM eka evuM rAjya ke je nakazAmAM jo joIe to jANe sAMdho karIne joDeluM hoya evuM lAge. vastuta: e jhAra rAjAnA vakhatamAM raziyAno ja nakAmo pradeza hato, paNa amerikAe I. sa. 1897mAM DahApaNapUrvaka botera lAkha DaoNlaramAM raziyA pAsethI, Azare cha lAkha corasa mAIla jeTalo e pradeza kharIdI lIdho hato. uttara dhruva taraphanA A sahya ThaMDA pradezamAM eskimo uparAMta elyuiTa, TiliMgiTa, hAIDA, AthAbAskansa vagere jAtio vaselI che. amerikanono alAskAmAM vasavATa to bIjA vizvayuddha pachI savizeSa rahyo. jApAna jevA nAnakaDA deze amerikAnA parla hArbara para AkramaNa karyuM tyAre amerikA coMkI UThyuM. alAskAmAM lazkaranI heraphera mATe tAbaDatoba rastAo banAvavAnI anivAryatA UbhI thaI. 194ramAM kALA sainikonI eka AkhI rejimenTa rastAo banAvavAmAM kAme lAgI gaI. tApamAnano pAro zUnyanI nIce 40 DigrIthI pa0 DigrI jeTalo hoya evA ziyALAnA divasomAM taMbuomAM rahIne sainikoe sADAATha mahinAmAM kula paMdaraso mAIla jeTalA rastAo bAMdhI dIdhA hatA. aNe 1992mAM amerikAmAM hatA tyAre tyAM rahetA amArA putra amitAbhane amane alAskA batAvavAnI ghaNI hoMza hatI. ame enkarejathI TheTha paoNInTa bero sudhI javAnA hatA. pravAsanuM Ayojana thaI rahyuM hatuM 254 4 pravAsa-darzana

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tyAre amitAbhe pUchyuM, "pappA, pherabaeNksamAM ApaNe hoTelamAM rahevuM che ke koInA ghare ?'' meM kahyuM, "koInA ghare rahevAnuM maLatuM hoya to vadhu sAruM. e satuM paDe e to kharuM, paNa ghare rahevAthI tyAMnA lokonI raheNIkaraNIno paNa kaMIka khayAla Ave." pAzcAtya jagatamAM keTalAya nivRtta mANaso potAnA ghare pravAsIone utAro ApIne thoDIka kamANI karI le che. kapyuTaramAM tapAsa karIne amitAbhe kahyuM, phera baeNksamAM je keTalAMka ghaNo utAro Ape che emAM eka nensI (nAnsI) homabarga nAmanAM mahilAnuM ghara che. e kadAca ApaNa ne phAve evuM che. emaNe lakhyuM che ke pote zAkAhArI che ane savAranAM cApANI-nAstAmAM phakta zAkAhArI vAnagIo ja Ape che.' - nensInuM ghara nakkI thatAM I-meIlathI tArIkho jaNAvAI ane te maMjUra thayAno javAba paNa AvI gayo. ame alAskAnA mukhya moTA zahera enkareja pahoMcyA. tyAM gADI bhADe laIne badhe pharyA. tyAra pachI pherabaeNksa javA ravAnA thayA. pherabaeNksa alAskAnuM ekareja pachInuM bIjuM moTuM zahera. alAskAnA parvatIya pradezamAM sapATa dharatI ochI ane vastI paNa ochI. uttara dhruvavartuLanI najIka, Azare 66 DigrI akSAMza para AvelA pherabaeNksanI vastI lagabhaga trIsa hajAranI, paNa evI chUTIchavAI ke rastA kyAMya bharacaka dekhAya nahi. alAskAnI uttare AveluM A chelluM moTuM zahera. ahIMthI have parvato, TharelA javALAmukhIo, kAdaviyA khINono pradeza zarU thAya, je ziyALAmAM baraphathI badho chavAI gayo hoya. ahIM unALAmAM rAtanA be vAgyA sudhI ajavALuM hoya ane pachI kalAka aMdhAruM thAya, paNa te moMsUjhaNA jevuM. ame ekarejathI nIkaLyA. rastAmAM "ninAnA" ane "tanAnA' nAmanI nadIonAM borDa vaMcAyAM, paNa jharaNAM jevI nAnI nadI jovI hoya to gADI UbhI rAkhIne, jhADImAM jaIne zodhavI paDe. enkarejathI pherabaeNksano dvimArgI rasto keTalo vizALa hato ! paNa baso-aDhIso kilomITara jatAM amane Akhe raste eka paNa moTarakAra jovA maLI nahi. covIsa kalAka gADIothI dhamadhamatA amerikAnA rastAone gADIono virahakALa hoto nathI. paNa uttara alAskAmAM ethI UMdhuM che. joke have dhIme dhIme tyAM paNa pravAha vadhavA lAgyo che. pherabaeNksa najIka AvatuM jaNAyuM eTale amitAbhe kAgaLa kADhIne kaI dizAmAM kyAM javAnuM che te joI lIdhuM. ghaNAM pAzcAtya zaheromAM rastAmAM pherabaeNksanAM nensI homabarga H 255

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gADI UbhI rAkhIne pUchavAnI prathA nathI ane pUchavuM hoya to page cAlatA mANaso nathI. koInA ghare javuM hoya to DAyarekazana pUchI levI paDe ane na samajAya to gesa sTezana (peTrola paMpa) para jaIne tapAsa karavI paDe. - nensInuM ghara cenA nadInA kinAre hatuM eTale ame enA nadInuM borDa AvatAM e dizAmAM gADI vALI. ApelI nizAnI pramANe ame nensInA ghara pAse AvI pahoMcyA. bahAra bagIco sarasa hato, paNa makAna jUnuM gaI sadInuM hoya evuM lAgyuM. phAvaze to rahIzuM, nahi to hoTelamAM cAlyA jaIzuM evo bhAva manamAM AvI gayo. ghaMTaDI dabAvatAM eka zvetakezI prauDha mahilAe ghara ughADyuM. temaNe sasmita kahyuM, "huM nensI homabarga. Avo.... tamArI ja rAha jotI hatI." amAro utAro vyAvasAyika dhoraNe hato, paNa nensInA avAjamAM svajana jevo AvakArabharyo umaLako hato. emaNe kahyuM, "mane inDiyana loko bahu game. emAM paNa (mArAM patnIne saMbodhIne) tamArI raMgaberaMgI inDiyana sADI jotAM AnaMda thAya che." nensIe amAre rahevA mATeno rUma batAvyo. emAM ame amAro sAmAna mUkI dIdho. rUma khAsso moTo, AThadasa mANasa sUI zake evaDo hato. A pakoNiyA rUmanuM rAcaracIluM jUnA jamAnAnI yAda apAve evuM, sIsama jevA lAkaDAnuM hatuM. rUmamAM palaMga jADA, moTA ane majabUta hatA. te eTalA UMcA hatA ke nIcA mANasane nIce rAkhelA bAjoTha para paga mUkIne caDavuM paDe. nensIe khulAso karyo ke jUnA vakhatamAM jyAre hITaro nahotAM tyAre ziyALAnI ThaMDImAM jamIna eTalI badhI TharI jatI ke palaMga vadhu UMco hoya to ThaMDI ochI lAge. kotarakAmavALuM eka bAraNuM batAvIne emaNe kahyuM, "e kabATa nathI, paNa bAtharUmanuM bAraNuM che.' meM bAraNuM kholyuM ke tarata pAcho haThI gayo. eka pakSI UDatuM mArI sAme AvatuM jaNAyuM. nensIe kahyuM, "Daro nahi, e sAcuM pakSI nathI. ramakaDuM che. chatamAM dorIthI laTakAveluM che. bAraNuM ughADatAM havAno je dhakko lAge che ethI pakSInI pAMkho phaDaphaDe che ane te ApaNI sAme AvatuM lAge che.' A pakSI te dhuvaDa hatuM. hatuM ramakaDuM paNa jIvaMta lAge. meM kahyuM, tamane ghuvaDa gamatuM lAge che. bahAranA khaMDamAM paNa ghuvaDanI keTalIka zilpAkRtio jovA maLI.' hA, ghuvaDa mAruM priya pakSI che. mArA gharamAM tamane be-cAra nahi, paNa basothI vadhAre kalAkRtio jovA maLaze.' ApaNe tyAM nizAcara ghuvaDa apazukaniyALa gaNAya che, paNa ahIM to ghuvaDono Dhagalo hato. nensIno zokha kaMIka vicitra ghelachA jevo lAgyo, 256 * pravAsa-darzana

Page #307
alabatta pAzcAtya dezomAM ghuvaDa mATe evo pUrvagraha ke miththAmAnyatA nathI. ame sAmAna goThavI, svastha thaI nensI pAse beThAM. paraspara paricaya thayo. nensI amerikAmAM mikriyApolisa nAmanA zaheramAM itihAsa ane saMskRtinAM adhyApikA hatAM. teo duniyAmAM ghaNuM pharyA che ane bhArata paNa AvI gayAM che. AgrAno tAjamahAla emaNe joyo che. videzamAM ghaNA lokomAM evo khyAla pravarte che ke tAjamahAla na joyo hoya tyAM sudhI bhAratano pravAsa adhUro gaNAya. bhArata ane bhAratIya prajA-saMskRti vize nensIne bahu mAna che. huM tathA mArAM patnI bhAratamAM adhyApananA kSetramAM hatAM ane have nivRtta thayAM chIe e jANIne nensIne AnaMda thayo. "tame pherabaeNnkasamAM rahevAnuM kema pasaMda karyuM ?" meM sahaja pUchuyuM. emaNe kahyuM, 'huM bhaNAvatI hatI tyAre ahIMnI AdivAsI jAtinA lokonA abhyAsa mATe keTalIka vAra AvI hatI. tyArathI manamAM ema thayuM ke mAre nivRtta jIvana pherabaeNnkasamAM gALavuM, kAraNa ke ahIMnI zAnti addabhuta che. e to tame ziyALAmAM raho tyAre anubhave samajAya evI vAta che. sadbhAgye mArA pati paNa saMmata thayA. teo enjinIara hatA. ame ahIM A ghara vecAtuM lIdhuM. alAskAmAM jyAre sonuM nIkaLyuM hatuM tyAre zrImaMtono A bAju dhasAro thayo hato. e vakhate koIka zrImaMte potAnA mATe A moTuM majabUta ghara baMdhAvyuM hatuM. emaNe potAne mATe bahAra kuvo paNa khodAvyo hato. tame bahAra jazo to jamaNI bAju khUNAmAM e jovA maLaze. haju paNa e cAlu che ane enuM pANI taddana svaccha ane pI zakAya evuM che." nensInI vAtamAM amane rasa paDyo. ame pUchyuM ke, "tamane ghuvaDamAM ATalo badho rasa kema paDyo ?' nensIe kahyuM, "mArA pati gujarI gayA pachI huM gharamAM ekalI chuM. dIkaro zikAgomAM eka peTrola kaMpanImAM kAma kare che. varasamAM ekAda vakhata te AvI jAya che. amArI pAse saMpatti sArI che. paNa lokonI sAthe haLavA-maLavAnuM thAya eTale unALAmAM pravAsIone rAkhuM chuM. ziyALAnI traNa mahinAnI aMdhArI rAtrimAM huM gharamAM ekalI houM chuM. mane ekalatAno Dara nathI, paNa rAtre jAganAra pakSI ghuvaDanI jIvaMta AkRttio gharamAM hoya to vastI jevuM lAge che, mane e game che." mANasanA mananA khyAlo kevA bhAtIgaLa hoya che ! nensIe amane gharanA judA judA kamarA batAvyA. jANe ke graMthAlaya hoya eTalAM badhAM pustako hatAM ane saMgrahasthAna hoya eTalI badhI kalAkRtio hatI, ArasanI, lAkaDAnI, mATInI, kAgaLanI, raMgaberaMgI pherabaeNksanAM nensI homabarga * 257

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paththaronI. dIvAlo para citro ane phoTAo paNa eTalAM badhAM ane te darekanI prAptino itihAsa judo judo. ghuvaDanI vividha prakAranI zilpAkRtio pAradarzaka kAcanA dareka kabATamAM ane dareka rUmamAM tathA bAtharUmamAM jovA maLI, jANe ke ApaNI sAme tAkIne jotuM hoya evI rIte goThavelI. gharamAM basa ghuvaDa, ghuvaDa, ghuvaDa. samaya hato eTale ame pherabaeNsamAM pharavA nIkaLyA. pahoLA vistAromAM patharAyelA pherabaeNnksamAM pradUSaNamukta nIrava zAMti anubhavAtI hatI. ahIM jagyAnI achata nathI, gIca vastI nathI. kAyamI vasavATa mATe sau koIne nimaMtraNa che, paNa ahIM aMdhArI dIdha rAtrinI jIvaleNa ThaMDImAM rahevA Ave koNa ? ame alAskana yunivarsiTI joI. yunivarsiTImAM ame myujhiyama joyuM. tyAM jovA jevI, khAsa to judI judI jAtione lagatI vastuo ghaNI che, paraMtu amAruM vizeSa dhyAna kheMcyuM pravezadvAra pAse kAcamAM rAkhelI eka moTI jaMgalI bheMse. masAlo bharIne rAkhelI e kadAvara bheMsanuM zaba pAsenA dhruvapradezanA baraphamAMthI khodakAma karatAM maLI AvyuM hatuM. jyAre zaba maLyuM tyAre enAM lohImAMsa evAM ja tAjAM hatAM, jANe ke thoDI vAra pahelAM ja mRtyu pAmI na hoya ! paraMtu vaijJAnikoe saMzodhana karIne jaNAvyuM ke bheMsanuM zarIra ochAmAM ochuM pAMca hajAra varSa jUnuM che. dUrathI koI eskimoe karelA ghAtaka prahAranI nizAnI enA zarIra para dekhAtI hatI. tyAM lohI thIjI gayuM hatuM. baraphanA tophAnane lIdhe eskimo bhAgI gayA haze ane bheMsa marIne tyAM baraphamAM daTAI gaI haze. ema karatAM hajAro varSa pasAra thaI gayAM haze. AvI rIte kudaratI baraphamAM daTAyeluM zaba evuM ne evuM ja rahe che, ene Permafrost kahe che. pherabaeNnksamAM cUkavA na jevo eka anubhava te uttara dhruvapradezanAM calacitro jovAno che. ame eka calacitra joyuM, emAM ekasAthe AjubAjumAM rAkhelA traNa paDadA para evAM dazyo batAvavAmAM AvyAM ke jANe ApaNe sAkSAt helikaoNpTaramAM besIne najIkathI jotA hoIe. helikaoNpTara evA acAnaka vaLAMka le ke paDI javAnI bIke ApaNe khurazIno dAMDo pakaDI laIe. dila dhaDaka dhaDaka kare evuM A calacitra jovAnuM kAcApocAnuM kAma nahi. hRdayaroganA dardIoe A na jovuM evI cetavaNI bahAra lakhelI ja hatI. bIjuM eka Northern Lights nAmanuM calacitra joyuM. emAM dhruvarAtrimAM AkAzamAM jovA maLatA bhUrA-lIlA prakAzanA badalAtA jatA lisoTAo (Aurora Borealis) jANe sAkSAt jotA hoIe evo anubhava thayo. 258 * pravAsa-darzana

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sAMje ame ghare pAchA pharyA. nensI sAthe agAuthI vAta thaI gaI hatI te mujaba hAthe rasoI banAvavA mATe ame sAthe dALa, cokhA, loTa, marImasAlA lIdhAM hatAM. mArAM patnIe gujarAtI rasoI banAvI te nensIne bahu bhAvI. jamatAM pahelAM ame prArthanA karI emAM paNa teo joDAyAM. pherabaeNksathI ame eka divasa denAlI pArka ane eka divasa poInTa bero jaI AvyA. nensI sAthe amAre svajana jevI AtmIyatA thaI gaI. teo gharamAM uparanA mALe rahetAM hatAM. eka vakhata teo potAnA gharamAM laI gayAM. uparanuM ghara te vaLI bIjuM saMgrahasthAna joI lyo ! eka joIe ane eka bhUlIe evI kalAkRtio hatI. tyAM paNa jAtajAtanAM ghuvaDa. ghuvaDanA raMga jevA raMganA paththaramAMthI kaMDAreluM eka sarasa moTuM ghuvaDa batAvIne nensIe pUchyuM, "A kevuM lAge che ?' sarasa, jANe jIvatuM ghuvaDa joI lyo.' A mAdA ghuvaDa che." "ema? amane emAM pharaka zo che te khabara na paDe." pakSIonA je abhyAsI hoya ene tarata khabara paDe, paNa tamane enAM baccAM dekhAya che ?" nA.' tamArI AMkha dhIme dhIme ghuvaDanI AMkha sudhI laI jAo.' meM ghuvaDanI AMkha pAse mArI AMkha rAkhI. kSaNavAra pachI AMkha sthira thaI tyAre ghuvaDanI moTI AMkhonA pAradarzaka kAcamAMthI jotAM aMdara ghuvaDano mALo ane emAM be baccAM dekhAyAM. tarata mArA mukhamAMthI ugAra sarI paDyA, "vAha vAha, adbhuta " kArIgare AMkhonI bakhola sAcavIne ghaNI UMDI kotarI che. pachI mALA jevI racanA kotarI che ane tyAra pachI be nAnAM baccAM aMdara sarakAvIne, goThavIne AMkhone kAbaracItarA paNa pAradarzaka kAcathI maDhI lIdhI che. kalAkAro paNa potAnI kalpanAzakti kevI sarasa calAve che ! ame vAraMvAra e baccAM joyAM karyA. nensIe bIjA eka kabATamAM goThavelI eka mUrti batAvI. badAmI raMganA ArasamAMthI kaMDArelI dazeka iMca jeTalI e mUrti batAvatAM nensIe kahyuM : "hanumena." are ! A to hanumAnajI. e mUrti joIne amane nensI pratye AdarabhAva thayo. emAM vaLI emaNe jyAre kahyuM ke A zakti ane saMrakSaNanA devamAM -The God of Power and Protection-mAM potAne zraddhA che ane pote roja darzana kare che tyAre amAro AdarabhAva vizeSa vRddhi pAmyo. emane rAmAyaNanI kathAnI khabara hatI. pherabaeNksanAM nensI homabarga * 259

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eka kabATamAM nensIe kaeNseTa, Diska vagere batAvyAM. potAne mATe upara juduM TI.vI. rAkhyuM che. TI. vI. para AvatA managamatA kAryakramonI kaeNseTa pote utArI le che. ziyALAmAM jyAre koInI avarajavara na hoya tyAre pustako vAMcavAM ane keseTo jovI emAM samaya pasAra thaI jAya che. gharanI bahAra tyAre nIkaLI zakAya nahi. pAro zUnyanI nIce 60 DigrIthI 70 DigrI sudhI UtarI jAya che. roja dasa paMdara iMca jeTalo barapha paDe. gharanI bahAra baraphanI UMcI dIvAla thaI jAya. bahAra javuM hoya to barapha jAte khodavo paDe athavA phona karIne mANaso bolAvavA paDe. khAdya sAmagrI bharI lIdhI hoya eTale traNa mahinA gharanI bahAra javAnI jarUra nahi. pachInA divasomAM roja eka vakhata gADI calAvIne bahAra jaI Ave. pravAsIo na hoya tyAre yunivarsiTInI lAIbrerImAM jaIne vAMce athavA enkareja bAju AMTo mArI Ave. tame ekalAM cho to gharamAM kUtaro rAkhatAM ho to !" e zakya nathI. ahIM mAMsAhAra vagara kUtarAM jIvI na zake. huM janmathI zAkAhArI chuM. mArAM mAtApitA zAkAhArI hatAM. eTale kUtaro pALavAnuM game bahu, paNa posAya nahi. tamane bhAratamAM zAkAhArI kUtarAM maLe." nensInA ghare cAra divasa to jotajotAmAM pUrA thaI gayA. jANe mahinAothI rahetA hoIe ane varSono saMbaMdha hoya evuM lAgyuM. samayanuM baMdhana na hota to thoDA divasa vadhu rokAvAnuM game tevuM hatuM. ame hisAba cUkavIne sAmAna sAthe taiyAra thayA. nensIe eka jADo copaDo amArI samakSa dharyo - nAma, saranAmuM ane TUMkA abhiprAya mATe. dasa varSathI A copaDo cAle che. keTalA badhA deza-videzanA pravAsIo emane ghera rahI gayA che ! A copaDAe ApaNAM tIrthasthaLonA paMDAonI yAda apAvI. nensInuM ghara amArA mATe tIrthasthaLa jevuM banyuM. ame abhiprAya lakhyo : eka virala addabhuta anubhava. ghara choDatI vakhatanI amArI prArthanAmAM nensI paNa joDAyAM. emanI bhAvabhInI vidAya laI ame vAlTijhanA raste cAlyA. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3) 210 ka pravAsa-darzana

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3pa sahasra dvIpanA pradezamAM (yu.esa.e.-keneDA) amerikAmAM naisargika ramaNIya pradezo ghaNA badhA che, paraMtu temAM uttare keneDAnI sarahada para, senTa lorensa nadImAM AvelA thAujhanDa AilaeNnDasTrasahastra dvIpanA pradezanI lAkSaNikatA kaMIka oNra ja che ! jotAM ja manamAM vasI jAya evo e cetohara pradeza che. upara AkAza, nIce zAMta vahetI nadInuM svaccha jala (ziyALAmAM te TharIne barapha thaI jAya), emAM najIka najIka AvelAM nAnAmoTA dvIpo, baMne kinArA para UMcInIcI TekarIo, pAIna, poplara, cerI vagere vividha prakAranAM vRkSonI gADha hariyALI e badhAMne kAraNe A vistAra eka evI AgavI prAkRtika ramyatA dhAraNa kare che ke rasika pravAsInuM citta tenA tarapha AkarSAyA vagara rahe nahi. aDhAramI sadInA uttarArdhathI keTalA badhA zrImaMta sahelANIo tyAM koI eka manapasaMda beTa kharIdIne potAnI vasAhata UbhI karavA doDyA hatA ! Aje to e pradezano bahu vikAsa thayo che. hoTelo, moTelo, jAtajAtanI resTorAM, golpha klaba, Tenisa korTa, ghoDesvArInAM medAno, thiyeTaro, myujhiyama, prANIbAga, matsya zikAranA zokhIno mATe bhADe maLatI yAMtrika . hoDIo ema vividha pravRttiothI e vistAra gAjato thaI gayo che. duniyAmAM jeTalAM sarovaro che tenA karatAM dvIpanI saMkhyA ghaNI badhI che. eka mANasa Ubho rahI zake ke ekAda nAnuM ghara thaI zake eTalA nAnA dvIpathI mAMDIne eka AkhuM nagara vase evA moTA dvIpa (Island sahastra dvIpanA pradezamAM ja 261

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City) ke eka nAnuM sarakhuM rASTra hoya evA dvIpa (Island state) ane eka Akho khaMDa dvIpa jevo hoya (Island Continent) evA (oNsTreliyA ke dakSiNa dhruva pradeza) dvIpa sudhInA vividha prakAranI nisarganI racanAo vizvamAM jovA maLe che. nAnA dvIpamAM rahenArA lokonI eka judI ja jAtanI manovRtti hoya che. TApumAM rahelA lokone vizALa dharatImAM rahevuM na game evuM paNa bane che. surakSitatAnI dRSTie TApunuM mahattva ghaNuM che. eTale ja eziyAnI zodhasaphare nIkaLelA briTana, porTugala, spena, phrAnsa, holenDa vagerenA zodhasapharIoe dariyAkinAre AvelA TApuomAM potAnAM thANAM nAkhyAM hatAM ane tyAM killo bAMdhyo hato. bhAgI jatA gulAmone rAkhavA amerikanoe kerebiyana samudranA TApuono upayoga karyo hato. bhAratamAM pUrva ane pazcima bAjuno samudrakinAro keTalo badho moTo che ! Ama chatAM ATalA lAMbA samudrakinAre AvelA TApuonI saMkhyAnuM pramANa ghaNuM ja ochuM che. phijI, nyUjhIlenDa, inDoneziyA, philipAinsa, jApAna jevA pratyeka dezanA samudra kinArAmAM seMkaDo TApuo AvelA che. samudranI vAta to jANe samajAya evI che, paraMtu duniyAnI koI nadImAM sauthI vadhu beTa hoya to te amerikA ane keneDAne joDatI, keneDAnA onTeriyo sarovaramAM jaIne maLatI senTa lorensa nadImAM che. AraMbhamAM A pradezanA zodhasApharIoe sAmAnya aMdAja evo mUkyo hato ke ochAmAM ochA eka hajAra TApu to A nadInA ATalA vistAramAM haze ! ethI enuM nAma thAujhanDa AilaeNnDasu paDI gayuM. bhaugolika dRSTie eTalo moTo AMkaDo tyAre Azcaryajanaka lAge evo hato. koIne saMzaya thAya ke kharekhara zuM nadInA ATalA ochA vistAramAM te kaMI hajAra jeTalA beTa hoI zake ? paraMtu A jalavistAranuM jyAre adhikRta sarvekSaNa karavAmAM AvyuM tyAre tyAM eka hajAra nahi, paNa kula 1872 jeTalA beTa noMdhAyA. temAM paNa evI zarata rAkhavAmAM AvelI ke je beTa upara ochAmAM ochuM eka vRkSa UgyuM hoya tenI ja beTa tarIke A gaNatarImAM gaNanA karavI. nahi to A saMkhyA be hajArathI paNa vadhI jAya. jenA upara palAMThI vALIne besI paNa na zakAya evA nAnakaDA beTa paNa tyAM keTalA badhA che ! zAMta vahetI lorensa nadInI 2myatAmAM A badhA beTathI abhivRddhi thaI che e to kharuM, paNa vividha raMga dhAraNa karatuM AkAza, nAnAmoTA beTa uparanI ane kinArAnI vRkSavanarAji ane nirmaLa jaLamAM paDatuM enuM pratibiMba tathA zItala havA ane zAMta vAtAvaraNa - e badhAMne kAraNe 262 * pravAsa-darzana

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paNa A samagra pradeza bahu ja raLiyAmaNo lAge che. ziyALAmAM to AkhI nadI thIjI jAya ane himavarSAne kAraNe cArebAju je zveta nI2va vAtAva2Na sarjAya e dRzyanI ramaNIyatA to vaLI judI ja ! be-aDhI saikA pUrve keTalAka mAchImAro A vistAramAM AvIne chUTAchavAyA vaselA. enA keTalAya vaMzajo Aje paNa tyAM e ja vyavasAya kare che. A pradezanA vikAsanI sAthe judA judA vyavasAyanA loko paNa AvIne vaselA che. unALAmAM cAreka mahinA to pradeza bahu dhamadhamato lAge che. keTalAya sahelANIo ahIM Ave che. rAtanA agiyAra-bAra vAgyA sudhI bajAro, resTorAM vagere khullAM hoya. 1992nA julAImAM ame baoNsTanathI sirekyusa thaIne thAujhanDa AilaeNnDsamAM pharavA gayA hatA. jepharasana kAunTI nAmanA ilAkAmAM rocesTarathI Azare so mAIla dUra vaoNTaraTAuna thaIne elekjhAnDriyA be (Bay) ame pahoMcyA. ahIMthI lorensa nadImAM sahelagAha mATe sTImaro UpaDe che. TikiTa laI ame sTImaramAM beThA. taDako hato, paraMtu ThaMDaka hatI. emAM paNa nadInA pANImAM sTImara cAlI eTale to ThaMDA pavananA susavATAmAM zarIra dhrUjavA lAgyuM. tarata ame vizALa pAradarzaka kAcavALI kaeNbinamAM ghUsI gayA. gAiDa yuvatIe sarva pravAsIonuM madhura avAje lahekAthI svAgata karyuM ane kahyuM ke AkhA divasanI A sapharamAM jANavA jevA TApunI pote mAhitI ApatI jaze ane je je TApu upara jovApharavAnuM haze tyAM te laI jaze. gAiDa yuvatI A vistAranI bhaugolika ane aitihAsika mAhitI ApatI gaI. eka TApu batAvatAM eNe kahyuM, 'jamaNI bAju have je TApu Ave che tenuM nAma che 'mepala AilaeNnDa.' tyAM mepalanAM ghaNAM vRkSo hovAthI evuM enuM nAma paDyuM che. A TApu jhona pAIna nAmanA cAMciyAnI ghaTanAthI mazahUra che. I.sa. 1865nI vAta che. eka divasa e TApu uparathI bahu moTo dhumADo nIkaLavA lAgyo. e joIne A nadInA kinArA upara chUTAchavAyA rahetA keTalAka mAchImAra lokone lAgyuM ke tyAM moTI Aga lAgI che. mATe jIva bacAvavA tyAM rahetA loko kinArA para jarUra doDI Avaze. paraMtu koI ja AvyuM nahi. ethI teone thayuM ke kadAca koI baLI maryuM haze. teone kutUhala thayuM. teo tyAM pahoMcI gayA. paraMtu tyAM to eka mANasanuM ghavAyeluM zaba paDyuM hatuM. ane gharane Aga lAgI hatI. vAtanI khabara paDatAM AsapAsanA ghaNA mANaso tyAM ekatra thaI gayA. sahasra dvIpanA pradezamAM * 263

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polIsa AvI. tapAsa karatAM mAlUma paDyuM ke e zabda to jANItA cAMciyA jhona pAInanuM che. e ahIM kevI rIte Avyo ? koNe khUna karyuM ? tapAsa karatAM vadhu vigato bahAra AvI che. jhona pAIna ane enA ToLakInA sAthIdAroe abrAhma liMkananuM ane enA pradhAnamaMDaLanA sabhyonuM khUna karavAnuM kAvataruM karyuM hatuM. e mATe keTalAka rAjakAraNIo ta2phathI jyona pAInane ghaNI moTI rakama ApavAmAM AvI hatI. 2kama eNe potAnA sAthIdAro sAthe vaheMcI levAnI hatI. paraMtu bahu moTI rakama maLatAM jhona pAInanI dAnata bagaDI. bIjI bAju liMkananA khUnanA kAvatarAnI vAta phUTI gaI. polIse jhona pAInane pakaDavA zodha calAvI, paraMtu e rakama laIne te bhAgIne A vistAramAM saMtAvA mATe doDI Avyo. te A mepala TApunI gIca jhADImAM AvelA eka gharamAM saMtAI gayo. te bhAgye ja gharanI bahAra nIkaLato. eka mAchImAra pAsethI mAchalAM laI potAnuM gujarAna calAvato. ema karatAM ghaNo samaya nIkaLI gayo. enA sAthIdAroe kAvatarA mATe maLelI 2kamamAMthI potAno hisso meLavavA jhona pAInanI ghaNI zodha karI, paraMtu te maLyo nahi. ema zodha karatAM karatAM teo eka divasa A TApu para tapAsa karavA AvyA. jhona pAInane pakaDyo ane potAno hisso mAgyo. jhone hisso ApavAno inkAra karyo eTale jhaghaDo thayo. mArAmArImAM sAthIdAroe enuM khUna karyuM. enA gharamAMthI badhI 2kama meLavI lIdhI ane e gharane Aga lagADI teo bhAgI gayA. liMkananA khUnanA kAvatarAnuM pariNAma AvuM karuNa AvyuM ! amArI sTImara AgaLa jatAM eka vizALa TApu Avyo. enuM nAma tyAM UgelAM cerInAM vRkSo u52thI 'cerI AilaeNnDa' paDeluM che. A TApu upara eka koTyAdhipatie sarasa majhAno vizALa baMgalo baMdhAvyo che. emAM bhAtabhAtanA ghaNA oraDA che ane e badhA oraDAonI sajAvaTa vividha prakAranI prAcIna zilpAkRtio, citro ane cIjavastuo sAthe karI che. boTamAMthI UtarIne ame e baMgalAnI mulAkAta laI AvyA. mANasanA zAMkha kevA kevA hoya che teno sarasa khyAla ahIM Avyo. sTImara AgaLa cAlI. gAiDe kahyuM, 'have thoDI vAramAM DAbI bAju eka nAnakaDo TApu ane enA para bAMdheluM eka ghara Avaze. ja2A dhyAnathI jojo.' e TApu pAse Avyo eTale saue dhyAnathI joyuM. gAiDe pUchyuM, 'zuM lAge che tamane A ghara joIne ?' 'TApu upara ghara che, paNa gharanI bahAra cAlavA mATe jarA jeTalI 264 * pravAsa-darzana

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paNa jagyA nathI.' eke kahyuM. 'A TApu upara ghara e to jANe TApune mAthe pahoLI TopI paherAvI hoya evuM lAge che." bIjAe kahyuM. "paNa A ghara eNe bAMdhyuM haze kaI rIte ? nadInA pANImAM hoDImAM UbhA UbhA eNe ghara bAMdhyuM haze ? ema karavA jAya to paNa AvuM ghara bAMdhavAnuM phAve nahi.' trIjuM koIka bolyuM. gAiDe kahyuM, "nA, ema paNa nathI. A gharanI kathA kaMIka judI che. eka sAdhAraNa sthitinA mANasane ahIM TApu upara ghara bAMdhIne rahevAnuM mana thayuM. eNe eka rUma ane rasoDuM thAya eTalA nAnA ghara mATe eTalI ja jamInavALo A TApu sAva sastAmAM kharIdI lIdho. pachI jAte ghara bAMdhavAnuM cAlu karyuM, paNa koI rIte ghara UbhuM karavAnuM phAvatuM nahi. chevaTe eNe eka rasto kADhyo. eNe TApunuM mApa cAre bAjuthI barAbara laI lIdhuM. pachI ziyALo Avyo eTale nadInAM pANI thIjI gayAM ane TApu upara be traNa phUTa jeTalo barapha jAmI gayo. tyAre eNe ahIM lAkaDAM ANI te mApa pramANe vaherI jAte ghara UbhuM karI dIdhuM ane te barAbara TApunI upara mApamApe goThavI lIdhuM. pachI jyAre unALo Avyo tyAre barapha ogaLato gayo ane ghara dhIme dhIme nIce utaratuM gayuM ane badho barapha ogaLI gayo tyAre enuM ghara TApunA mastaka upara TopInI jema barAbara phiTa AvI gayuM. pachI e tyAM kAyama ekalo rahevA lAgyo. jAte rasoI karI le ane eka nAnI hoDI banAvelI temAM besIne nadImAM sahelagAha kare. ziyALAmAM barapha jAmI jAya tyAre te ekalo gharamAM beTho beTho vAMcyA kare. ema eNe A TApu upara potAnI jiMdagI pUrI karI." A TApuomAMnA eka TApunuM nAma "Devilsa AilaeNnDa' che. enI gIca jhADImAM koI mANasa saMtAI jAya to ene zodhavAnuM muzkela banI jAya. ogaNIsamA saikAnI zarUAtamAM bila jhonasana nAmano eka senApati A TApumAM saMtAI gayo hato. vAta ema banI hatI ke keneDAne briTiza hakUmatamAMthI mukta karAvavA mATe amuka dezabhakta keneDiyanoe keTalAka amerikanonA sahakArathI I.sa. 1838mAM dezabhaktonA yuddha Patriot's WarnI taiyArI karI hatI. A yuddhanI netAgIrI bila jhonasana ane viliyama mekenjhIe lIdhI hatI. bila jhonasane A nadImAM eka briTiza vahANa DubADI dIdhuM ane aMgrejone bhagADyA. have vijaya hAthaveMtamAM hato. A vijaya meLavavAnA utsAhamAM teo badhA AvI gayA. vijayakUcanI sahastra dvIpanA pradezamAM eka 265

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AgalI rAte teoe vijaya mATenI mijabAnI rAkhI. emAM baMne netAo bila jhonasana ane viliyama maeNkenjhIe eTalo badho dArU DhIMcyo ke savAre chelluM AkramaNa karavA teo UThI zakyA nahi. AgekUca karavA mATe sainiko rAha jotA rahyA. evAmAM aMgrejono humalo Avyo. nAsabhAga cAlu thaI. vijaya parAjayamAM pheravAI gayo. bila jhonasana ane viliyama maeNkenjhI UMghamAMthI bebAkaLA UThyA ane bhAgyA. emAM maeNkenjhI pakaDAI gayo. bila jhonasana A Devilsa AilaeNnDamAM kyAMka saMtAI gayo. aMgrejonuM kaeNneDA uparanuM zAsana pharI vyavasthita cAlavA lAgyuM. teoe yudgha gunegAra bila jhonasanane pakaDavA mATe vaoNraMTa kADhyuM paNa te kyAMyathI pakaDAyo nahi. bila jhonasana A TApunI gIca jhADImAM eka jUnA makAnamAM saMtAI gayo. koIne enI bhALa maLI nahi. eka mAtra enI dIkarIne khabara hatI ke potAnA pitA kyAM saMtAyA che. te roja pitAne chAnImAnI khAvAnuM ApI AvatI. ema karatAM varasa vItI gayuM. have bila jhonasana thAkyo. chevaTe e jAte aMgrejone zaraNe gayo. sattAvALAoe enI dharapakaDa karI, paNa vAta have eTalI jUnI thaI gaI hatI ke teoe bila jhonasanane mAphI ApI ane A TApuono ane jalavistArano te bhomiyo hovAthI ene eka dIvAdAMDInA rakhevALa tarIke nokarI ApI. bIjo eka dvIpa batAvIne, lorensa nadImAM ane enA vistAramAM banelI eka vicitra ghaTanA vize gAiDe kahyuM, 'I.sa. 1970nI AsapAsa nyU meksikothI eka bahu zrImaMta vepA2I A vistAramAM Avyo hato. enuM nAma erika hanTara. judA judA jalapradezamAM jaI mAchalAM pakaDavAM e enI zaoNkhanI pravRtti hatI. te senTa lorensa nadImAM potAnI hoDI laIne AvI pahoMcyo. mAchalAM pakaDatAM pakaDatAM eka divasa eno vAMsaDo nadInA pANImAM phasAI gayo. eNe ghaNuM jora karI jhATako mArI vAMsaDo kheMcyo to pANImAMthI nIcethI patarAMnI eka nAnI peTI bharAI AvI. ene lAgyuM ke jarU2 nIce koI vahANa DUbI gayuM hovuM joIe. enI vAta sAcI hatI. loDhAnI peTImAMthI eka DAyarI nIkaLI. jarmanInA kaeNpTana gUMtharanI e lakhelI hatI. e DAyarInA ahevAla pramANe bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate kaeNpTana gUMtharane keTalAka khalAsIo ane nAviko sAthe jamanIe amerikA ane kaeNneDAnI sarahadamAM nAnI yuddhanaukA laIne jAsUsI ka2vA mokalyo hato. gupta mAhitI meLavI eNe vAyaralesa dvArA te jarmanI pahoMcADavAnI hatI. te senTa lorensa nadImAM nAnI yuddhanaukA laIne ghUsyo hato. lorensa nadImAM AvyA pachI 266 * pravAsa-darzana

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potAnI yuddhanIkA pakaDAya nahi e mATe eNe rAtorAta enAM rUparaMga badalI nAkhyAM hatAM ane jANe mAchImAronI boTa hoya evo dekhAva karyo hato. paraMtu kamabhAgye enI yuddhanaukA dhasamasatA vahetA pANImAM eka khaDaka sAthe athaDAIne tUTI gaI ane DUbavA lAgI. badhA nAviko ane khalAsIo jIva bacAvIne kinAre pahoMcI gayA. teone phrenca ane iMgliza bhASA zikhavADIne mokalyA hatA. eTale teo sthAnika loko sAthe chUTAchavAyA bhaLI gayA. keTalAka majUra tarIke khetaromAM kAma karavA lAgyA. thoDA vakhatamAM to teo sthAnika rahevAsI jevA banI gayA. keTalAke to sthAnika yuvatI sAthe lagna paNa karI lIdhAM ane temane saMtAno paNa thayAM. jyAre vizvayuddha pUruM thayuM tyAre teone jarmanI pAchA pharavAnI icchA na thaI kAraNa ke jarmanI hArI gayuM hatuM. teo tyAM ja rokAI gayA. pacIsa varSe erika haMTare gUMtharanI DAyarInA AdhAre e vistAramAM khoja karI. eNe DAyarImAM lakhelAM nAma pramANe keTalAka nAvikono patto meLavyo. paraMtu have kALano pravAha eTalo badho vahI gayo hato ke koIne e jUnI vAtomAM rasa rahyo nahoto. teo badhA sthAnika vatanI ja banI gayA hatA. amArI sTImara AgaLa cAlatI hatI. ame sau AsapAsanA TApuono ane kinArAno pradeza nihALavAmAM magna hatA. tyAM gAiDe mAikamAM jAhera karyuM, "sajjano ane sannArIo ! have thoDI vAramAM ApaNI sTImara sarahada oLaMgI keneDAnA pradezamAM dAkhala thaze. mATe tamArA pAsaporTa taiyAra rAkhazo. AzA rAkhuM chuM ke tamArI pAse keneDAno vijhA haze ja !' gAiDanI A jAherAta sAMbhaLI ame badhA pravAsI camakyA. keTalAke kahyuM, "ame pAsapaoNrTa lAvyA nathI. amane evI kazI khabara ja nahotI." koIke kahyuM, "amArI pAse pAsapaoNrTa che. paNa keneDAno vijhA nathI." vaLI koIke phariyAda karI, 'TikiTa ApatI vakhate tamAre ja tapAsI levuM joIe ne ke amArI pAse pAsapaoNrTa vijhA che ke nahi ? badhA bolatA rahyA, paNa gAiDa to koIne javAba ApatI nahotI. thoDIvAra pachI te hasI paDI ane bolI, are, ApaNe keneDAnA jalavistAramAM kayAranA dAkhala thaI gayA ane koIe ApaNA posaporTa vijhA tapAsyA nahi. kadAca enuM kAraNa e haze ke ApaNe badhA sArA pravAsIo chIe ane pAchA cAlyA javAnA chIe enI e lokone khAtarI haze !' AvI majAka karyA pachI gAiDe vAtanI spaSTatA karatAM kahyuM ke amerikA sahastra dvIpanA pradezamAM 267

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ane kaeNneDAnI sarahada A nadInA pANImAMthI pasAra thAya che. nadInA vahetA pANImAM barAbara kaI jagyAe sarahada che enI khabara paDe eTalA mATe thoDe dUra be nAnA TApuo je dekhAya che tene joDato tenA upara teoe ramakaDAM jevo ardha vartuLAkAra sapheda pula bAMdhyo che. pulanI eka bAju amerikA che ane bIjI bAju kaeNneDA che. pulanI sIdhI lITIe nadInA pANImAM eka kinArAthI bIjA kinArA sudhI amerikA ane kaeNneDAnI sarahada paDe che. ahIM pravAsIo, mAchImAro vagere koI paNa prakAranI rokaToka vagara sarahada oLaMgI zake che. eTalA mATe ja sarahadI pulano raMga sapheda rAkhyo che, je raMga suleha ane zAMtinA pratIka jevo che. bIjo eka TApu batAvI gAiDe kahyuM, 'A TApunuM nAma che hArTa AilaeNnDa. emAM AvelA vizALa killA jevI racanAne bolTa kesala kahevAmAM Ave che.' pachI amane badhAne e bolTa kesalanI mulAkAta mATe laI javAmAM AvyA. mANasa dhAre che zuM ane kudarata kare che zuM teno vicAra A bolTa kesalano itihAsa sAMbhaLIne AvyA vagara rahe nahi. jyorja bolTa nAmano eka koTyAdhipati potAnI patnI lUIjhe (Louise)ne laIne A TApuo jovA Avelo. teone A ramaNIya pradezanuM eTaluM badhuM AkarSaNa thayuM ke patnIe icchA batAvI ke ahIM eka sarasa ghara karAvI Apo ke jethI vAraMvAra AvIne ahIM rahI zakAya. bolTa potAnI patnIne bahu ja cAhato hato ane eno paDyo bola jhIlavA haMmezAM tatpara raheto. patnIe jevI icchA darzAvI ke tarata bolTe sArAmAM sAro ArkiTekTa rokI, sArAmAM sAro TApu kharIdI laIne tyAM rAjamahela jevo vizALa baMgalo baMdhAvavAnuM cAlu karyuM. 120 suzobhita oraDAvALuM sAta mALanuM potAnuM rahevA mATenuM makAna, thoDe dUra mahemAno mATenAM makAno, nokaracAkara mATe makAno, potAnI boTanA khalAsIo mATe juduM makAna evAM bIjAM agiyAra makAno tathA vIjaLI mATe pAvarahAusa jevuM juduM tathA eka TAvara jevuM makAna, taravAno hoja, Tenisa korTa, judA judA bagIcA karAvyA tathA AkhI jAgIrane pharate killA jevo UMco koTa karAvyo. bolTane potAnAM patnI pratyenA premanA pratIka tarIke hRdayanI AkRti bahu gamatI hatI. eNe baMgalAmAM, dIvAlomAM, chatamAM Thera Thera hRdayanI AkRti kotarAvI tathA evI citrAkRtio ane zilpAkRtio paNa kharIdIne judA judA oraDAmAM goThavAvI. basothI vadhu evI hArTanI AkRtiothI sabhara evI A jagyA 268 * pravAsa-darzana

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mATe eNe TApunuM nAma paNa "hArTa AilenDa" (hRdayadvIpa) rAkhyuM. I.sa. 1900mAM eNe A bAMdhakAma zarU karAvyuM. aDhI karoDa DaoNlara jevI jaMgI 2kama to kharcAI gaI. bAMdhakAmane traNa varSa pUrAM thaI gayAM. have thoDA mahinAnuM bAMdhakAma bAkI hatuM tyAM 1904nA jAnyuArImAM enI patnI lUIjhanuM avasAna thayuM. basa, khela khatama ! bolTane bhAre AghAta lAgyo. patnInI ciravidAyathI e bhagnahRdaya banI gayo. bolTa kesalanuM enuM svapna jarAka mATe adhUruM rahyuM. have enuM kAma pUruM karAvavAmAMthI eno rasa UDI gayo, te eTalI hada sudhI ke pachI eNe kyAreya tyAM paga mUkyo nahi. eTaluM ja nahi paNa e jAgIranA mAlikIpaNAmAM paNa ene rasa rahyo nahi. jAgIra ema ne ema dhaNIdhorI vagaranI paDI rahI ane divase divase bagaDatI gaI. patnInA virahamAM thoDAM varSe bolTanuM paNa avasAna thayuM. ane AvaDI moTI jAgIra nadhaNiyAtI paDI rahI. koI eno vArasadAra paNa nahoto. TheTha 1977mAM rAjyanA sattAvALAoe A nadI upara amerikA ane keneDAne joDato pula bAMdhavAno nirNaya karyo tyAre hArTa AilenDa ane enI jAgIranI mAlikI potAne hastaka laI lIdhI. ane enI marAmata karAvI pravAsIone nihALavA mATenuM eka suMdara kendra banAvyuM. kudaratanI lIlA kevI akaLa che ! amArI sTImara AgaLa cAlatI hatI. gAiDa yuvatIe kahyuM, "have jamaNI bAju naja2 karo. tamane lorensa nadInA kinAre eka atyaMta vizALa manohara baMgalo dekhAze. vRkSonI ghaTAmAM e kevo sarasa zobhI rahyo che ! tamane emAM rahevAnuM game kharuM ? sau koIe ekI avAje kahyuM, "AvA sarasa baMgalAmAM rahevAnuM kone na game ?" gAiDe kahyuM, "A to dUrathI jotAM gamI jAya evo majhAno baMgalo che paNa tame aMdara jaIne juo to tamane tyAMthI khasavAnuM mana na thAya evo e baMgalo che. e kono baMgalo che te huM pachI tamane kahuM chuM. paNa te daramiyAna DAbI bAju dUra eka nAnA TApu upara eka makAna juo ! dekhAyuM ?' "hA..." eka zrImaMta patipatnIe potAne rahevA mATe A ghara baMdhAvelAM. tame mane kahezo ke AmAM paheluM ghara kayuM baMdhAyuM ane pachI kayuM baMdhAyuM ? dekhItuM ja che ke A mahUlI jevuM ghara pahelAM baMdhAyuM haze ane pachI A AlIzAna baMgalo baMdhAyo haze !" sahastra dvIpanA pradezamAM 9 269

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'nA, ema nathI. pahelAM AlIzAna baMgalo baMdhAyo ane pachI maDhulI baMdhAI !' 'ema ? evuM karavAnuM kaMI kAraNa ?' gAiDe kahyuM, 'enI rasika kathA che. ema kahevAya che ke gayA saikAmAM koI eka atyaMta dhanADhya vepArI potAnI patnIne laIne hajAra TApunA A vistAramAM pharavA Avyo hato. A ramaNIya pradeza joIne enI patnI to gAMDIghelI thaI gaI. ene evA bhAva jAgyA ke basa, have zeSa jIvana A nadInI vacce koI majhAnA TApu upara sarasa ghara baMdhAvIne temAM pasAra karavuM. dhananI teone koI kamI nahotI. eNe to haTha lIdhI ke, 'basa, ApaNe have ahIM ja rahevA AvIe. sArAmAM sAro TApu kharIdIne tyAM sArAmAM sAruM ghara baMdhAvI Apo.' zrImaMta vepArIe sArAmAM sArA niSNAta mANaso sAthe AvIne lorensa nadInA 1872 jeTalA badhA ja TApuonuM baMgalo bAMdhavAnI dRSTie nirIkSaNa karyuM. paraMtu eka Na TApu ene pasaMda paDyo nahi. chevaTe eNe niSNAtonI salAha anusAra nadInA kinAre eka khaDakALa jagyAmAM vizALa baMgalo baMdhAvavAnuM cAlu karyuM. baMgalAmAM judA judA khaMDo ane temAM kImatI rAcaracIluM karAvyuM. bahAra ta2vA mATeno hoja, ghAsanAM lona, Tenisa korTa, ramatagamatanA vibhAga, potAnuM juduM pAvara sTezana, nadImAM pharavA mATe boTa vagere ghaNuM vasAvyuM. surakSitatA mATe baMgalAnA vizALa kampAunDanI pharate majabUta UMcI dIvAla banAvI. potAnI patnI baMgalo joIne rAjI rAjI thaI jaze enI ene pAkI khAtarI hatI kAraNa ke e mATe eNe nANAM kharcavAmAM kazI maNA rAkhI na hatI. baMgalo baMdhAI rahyo eTale te potAnI patnIne laIne tyAM rahevA Avyo. patnIe baMgalo joyo. baMgalA tarIke te AlIzAna hato. ghaNI sArI sagavaDavALo te hato. paraMtu baMgalAmAMthI nadInuM ke emAM AvelA TApuonuM dRzya dekhAtuM nahotuM. e mATe kAM to chAparA para caDavuM joIe ane kAM to baMgalAnI bahAra AvI nadInA kinAre pahoMcavuM joIe. patnInuM moDhuM paDI gayuM. teNe ciDAIne kahyuM, 'meM tamane TApu upara baMgalo baMdhAvavA kahyuM hatuM, paraMtu tame to kinArA upara rajavADI jela UbhI karI dIdhI. huM A baMgalAmAM rahevAnI nathI.' patie kahyuM, 'Avo sarasa baMgalo bAMdhavA mATe eka paNa TApu anukULa nathI ema mane ane niSNAtone lAgyuM. eTale nadInA kinArA upara A 270 * pravAsa-darzana

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jagyA pasaMda karI. have tane na game te kema cAle ! ApaNe ahIM rahevA sivAya chUTako nathI.' 'tamAre rahevuM hoya to rahejo. huM ahIM rahevAnI nathI. mAre to nadImAM pANInI vacce AvelA TApumAM covIsa kalAka rahevAnI naisargika jiMdagI mANavI che.' Ama patipatnI vacce takarAra ugra banI gaI. patnI baMgalo choDIne cAlI gaI. thoDe dUranA pelA TApu upara nAnI mahUlI jevuM banAvaDAvIne te tyAM ekalI rahevA lAgI. patipatnI Ama TApune kAraNe kAyamane mATe chUTAM paDyAM. koI koI vyaktine TApunA jIvananuM keTaluM badhuM gheluM hoya che te A ghaTanA parathI samajI zakAya che. thAujhanDa AilaeNnvasanI sapharamAM ame vartamAnamAM prakRtinI ramaNIyatAnuM sauMdarya mANatAM mANatAM bhUtakALanA itihAsamAM khovAI jatA hatA. sAMje TekarIo pAchaLanA sUryAstanuM sohAmaNuM dRzya nihALI ame saphara pUrI karI pAchA pharyA. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) sahastra dvIpanA pradezamAM 9 271

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36 panAmAM (da. amerikA) rio-DI-jAnerothI pAchAM pharatAM madhya amerikAmAM panAmA javAno amAro kAryakrama hato, paraMtu amArI phalAITamAM acAnaka pheraphAra thaI gayo hato. eTale rio javAne badale pahelAM panAmA amAre javAnuM thayuM. mArAM patnI ane huM kurAsAo TAputhI savAranAM panAmAM mATenI phalAITamAM beThAM. vimAnamAMthI keribiyana samudramAM keTalAka chUTAchavAyA TApuo dekhAyA. tyAra pachI panAmAM AvyuM. vimAnanI eka bAjunI bArImAMthI pesiphika ane bIjI bAjunI bArImAMthI eTalAnTika mahAsAgara dekhAtA hatA. vimAna nIce UtaratAM panAmAnA Tokamena eNraporTano rana-ve dekhAyo. te ghaNo ja moTo ane sarasa hato, paraMtu laMDana, Tokyo ke nyU yorkamAM jema eraporTa upara saMkhyAbaMdha vimAno hArabaMdha UbhelAM dekhAya che tevuM panAmAmAM kazuM dekhAyuM nahi. are, muMbaImAM sAMtAkrujha-sahAra eNrapaoNrTa jeTalI avarajavara paNa tyAM nahotI. ahIM vimAno Ave ane tarata UDe, kAraNa ke moTA bhAganAM vimAno bIjA dezonAM hoya. panAmAnAM potAnAM vimAno jhAjhAM nahi, eTale vizALa eroDroma khAlI khAlI lAge. kurAsAothI panAmA UtaranAra ame thoDA pravAsIo hatA. navuM ja bAMdheluM AMtararASTriya eraporTanuM svaccha makAna UMcA UMcA be mALavALuM ane ghaNI mokaLAzavALuM hatuM. jyAM juo tyAM pravAsIo mATe puSkaLa khurazIo ane sophA. paNa besavAvALA pravAsIo bahu nahi. amerikAnI sahAyathI 272 jhaka pravAsa-darzana

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AvaDuM moTuM eraporTa bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM che, paraMtu eraporTanA pramANamAM pravAsIonI avarajavara haju tyAM vadhI nahotI. kasTamsa mATe bharavAnAM phorma amane ApavAmAM AvyAM. ghaNA dezomAM hoya che evo eka prazna emAM paNa hato : "tamArI pAse tAjAM phaLa che ?' amArI pAse kurAsAothI lIdhelAM keLAM, peru ane saMtarAM hatAM. meM mArAM patnIne kahyuM, "duniyAnA keTalAka dezomAM kasTamsavALA tAjAM phaLanI bAbatamAM bahu cIkaNA hoya che. bIjA dezonAM phaLa dvArA potAnA dezanA lokone rogacALo thaI jaze athavA potAnI vanaspatine acAnaka nukasAna pahoMcaze, evI bhIti teo sevatA hoya che, eTale phaLaphUla ke choDa-ropA mATe teo bahu kaDaka kAyado rAkhe che. potAnI prajAne jhADA thaI jaze e bIke amerikA bhAratanI kerIne potAnA dezamAM dAkhala thavA detuM nathI. jApAna, oNsTreliyA vagere paNa phaLa mATe sakhata kALajI rAkhe che." paNa dhAro ke koInI pAse phaLaphaLAdi nIkaLe to kasTamsavALA zuM kare ?" mArAM patnIe sahaja pUchyuM. "te laIne tarata teno nAza karAve. A koI evo gaMbhIra guno nathI ke tethI jelamAM besADe athavA tenI bIjI koI sakhata sajA hoya. keTalIka vAra koIka saMtADIne paNa laI jAya che. ethI te te dezanI prajAone rogacALo lAgu paDyo hoya evuM kyAreya jANyuM nathI. paraMtu kasTamsamAM ApaNane jo pUche to ApaNe teno sAco javAba to Apavo ja joIe ne ? ane sAco javAba ApIe to ApaNI pAsethI e phaLaphaLAdi laIne teo pheMkI de emAM paNa saMzaya nahi." paraMtu phaLa mATe ciMtA kasTamanA sAmAna tapAsanAra ispekTara pAse pahoMcIe tyAre karavAnI rahe, te pahelAM nahi. vimAnanI aMdara ke vimAnamAMthI UtaryA pachI eraporTanA makAna sudhI pahoMcIe tyAM sudhI A ciMtA sAmAnya rIte hotI nathI. meM mArAM patnIne kahyuM, "ApaNI pAse je phaLa che te kasTamsavALA naMkhAvI de tenA karatAM ApaNe te khAI laIe to vadhAre sAruM thaze. Ama paNa ApaNane bhUkha to lAgI che. pachI bahAra jaI navAM phaLa kharIdIne khAvAM tenA karatAM atyAre ApaNe A phaLane ja nyAya kema na ApIe ?' kasTamsanA oNphisaronAM Tebala zarU thAya tenI pahelAM thoDeka dUra eka sophAmAM besIne ame, vimAnamAMthI amAro sAmAna Ave tyAM sudhImAM keLAM, saMtarAM, paeNru vagere badhAM phaLa vAparI lIdhAM. phaLAhAra karyA pachI ame kasTamsanuM phorma bharyuM. "tamArI pAse koI tAjAM phaLa che ?' e praznanA uttaramAM ame have panAmA - (da. amerikA) - 273

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"nA" lakhI. kasTamsamAMthI saraLatAthI ame pasAra thaI gayAM. duniyAnA keTalAka dezomAM khAvAnI cIjavastuonI bAbatamAM judA judA niyamo hoya che. sUkI ane Tina ke pekeTamAM akabaMdha vastuo ApaNA potAnA ja vaparAza mATe che ane bIjA koIne te ApavAmAM nahi Ave evI khAtarI ApIe to keTalAka bhalA ophisaro te sAthe laI javA de che. keTalAka dezomAM TinanA sIlabaMdha DabbAmAM athANuM, rasa, phaLanA TukaDA ke koI jAtanAM pravAhI paNa laI javA de che. keTalAka dezomAM pahelAM AvI badhI mAthAkUTa nahotI. paraMtu bIjA dezonuM joIjoIne keTalAka nAnA ane avikasita pachAta dezo paNa AvA kAyadA karavA lAgyA che. je dezamAM atizaya gaMdakI hoya, jenuM Arogya ekaMdare bahu sAruM na hoya ane vadhu bagaDaze evuM jokhama paNa na hoya evA dezo paNa bahAranA nIrogI pravAsInA svaccha khAdya padArthone have aTakAvavA lAgyA che. dekhAdekhI ane paraspara samAna hakkonI vRttinuM A visaMvAdI pariNAma che. uttara amerikAno khaMDa nIce enA naiRtya cheDe leTina amerikAnA khaMDa sAthe jamInanI eka sAMkaDI paTTIthI joDAyelo che. eTale ke uttara amerikAnA uttara cheDethI dakSiNa amerikAnA dakSiNa cheDA sudhI jamInamArge saLaMga pahoMcI zakAya. uttara ane dakSiNa amerikAnA khaMDo vacce vacce eNTalAnTika mahAsAgarano ja eka bhAga te keribiyana samudra che. A baMne khaMDo pazcima bAju jamInathI joDAyelA che. madhya amerikA tarIke oLakhAtA A joDANavALA jamInanA vistAramAM sAva cheDe Avelo taddana sAMkaDo pradeza te panAmAM rAjya che. enI uttare kosTArikAnuM ane dakSiNa koloMbiyA (Colombia-dakSiNa amerikA)nuM rAjya AveluM che. - kolaMbase amerikAnI zodha karI tyArathI panAmA speniza lokonuM saMsthAna banyuM hatuM. samaya jatAM koloMbiyAe panAmA upara varcasva jamAvI potAnAmAM tene bheLavI dIdhuM hatuM. paraMtu I.sa. 1903mAM yunAiTeDa sTeTse panAmAne svataMtra thavAmAM madada karI tyArathI te svataMtra rAjya rahyuM che. panAmA lagabhaga trIsa hajAra corasa mAIlano vistAra dharAve che. enA AkhA rAjyanI kula vasatI Azare paMdara lAkhanI (bhAratanA dvitIya kakSAnA koI eka moTA zahera karatAM paNa ochI) che. panAmAnI vasati mizra prakAranI che. tyAM lagabhaga pAMcaso varSamAM spena, iMglenDa, holenDa vagere dezomAMthI AvIne vaselA yuropiyano che, amerikAmAMthI AvIne vaselA reDa inDiyana che, gulAma habasIonA Adhunika svataMtra vArasadAro che, kALA-gorAnA ra74 9 pravAsa-darzana

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mizraNavALI varNazaMkara prajA paNa che ane sthAnika AdivAsIo paNa che. panAmAM lAMbA samaya mATe spenanuM saMsthAna rahyuM hatuM. eTale eno mukhya dharma rahyo che romana ketholika ane enI mukhya bhASA rahI che speniza. panAmAno keTaloka pradeza TharI gayelA jvALAmukhIno che. ene lIdhe e bahu phaLadrupa che. tyAM khetI sArI thAya che. moTA bhAganI prajA khetInA vyavasAyamAM rokAyelI ane sukhI che. keLAM, zeraDI, kaoNphI, koko vagereno uttama kakSAno puSkaLa pAka tyAM thAya che. tenI nikAsa dvArA panAmAne ghaNI sArI Avaka thAya che. panAmA rAjyamAM vaselA mukhya zaherane panAmAe juduM nAma nathI ApyuM. eTale te "panAmA siTI' tarIke oLakhAya che. panAmAnA kasTamsamAMthI bahAra nIkaLI ame amAro sAmAna eNrapaoNrTamAM rAkhavAmAM AvelA eka moTA lokaramAM mUkyo, kAraNa ke amAre Akho divasa pharIne sAMje eNrapaoNrTa pAchAM AvavAnuM hatuM. ame TeksInI tapAsa karI. ghaNAkharA TeksIvALA habasI hatA. teo speniza bolatA hatA. ame iMgliza bolavAvALAnI TaeNksI mATe Agraha rAkhyo. teomAM vAta prasaratAM traNeka TaeNksIvALA AvI pahoMcyA. emAMnA ekanI sAthe Akho divasa badhe pharavA mATe ame DaoNlara TharAvyA. (panAmAmAM enuM potAnuM calaNa bAlkovA ane amerikana DaoNlara baMne cAle che.) e nakkI thatAM TeksIvALo tarata utAvaLa karavA lAgyo. ene bIka hatI ke rakhene bIjo TeksIvALo phAcara mAre. ame kahyuM, 'paNa amArI pAse je TrAvelarsa ceka che te eNrapaoNrTanI beMkamAM vaTAvI laIe, kAraNa ke tamane ApavA mATe amArI pAse rokaDA DaoNlara nathI.' eNe kahyuM, "tenI phikara na karo. huM TrAvelarsa ceka svIkAruM svaccha zveta yuniphorma paherelA e jADA ThIMgaNA habasI DrAivaranI TeksImAM ame beThAM. te iMgliza sAruM bolato hato. te hasamukho, vivekI ane maLatAvaDo hato. utsAhathI badhuM samajAvatAM samajAvatAM te TaeNksI haMkAravA lAgyo. amane te sattAvIsa kilomITara dUra panAmA zaheramAM laI gayo. tyAM ame thoDuMka phaya. eka resTorAMmAM cA-pANI lIdhAM. tyAra pachI TaeNksIvALo amane eTalAnTika ane pesephika mahAsAgarane joDatI panAmAnI suprasiddha nahera jovA laI gayo. panAmAmAM eNTalAnTika ane pesiphika mahAsAgara vacce ochAmAM ochuM aMtara eka sthaLe sIdhI lITIe lagabhaga 43 mAIlanuM che. e vistAramAM panAmA - (da. amerikA) 49 275

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pacAsa mAIla lAMbI nahera yunAITeDa sTeTsa oNpha amerikA taraphathI bAMdhavAmAM AvI che. emAM eNTalAnTika bAjunuM pravezadvAra te gATuna laoNksa (Gatun Locks) che ane paeNsiphika bAjunuM pravezadvAra te mirAphalorsa laoNksa (Mirafloers Locks) che. panAmA zahe2nI pAse mirAphalorsa laoNksa che ane tenI racanA jovA jevI che, eTale te jovA roja savArathI sAMja sudhImAM hajAro pravAsIonI avarajavara tyAM thatI hoya che. TikiTa laI ame mirAphalorsa laoNksamAM dAkhala thatAM duniyAnI eka vakhatanI ajAyabI tarIke gaNAyelI A nahera jovA Azare traNeka hajAra pravAsIo tyAM hatA. pravAsIonI avarajavara satata cAlu rahetI, kema ke jeTalo rasa paDe te pramANe loko rokAtA. mAIka upara thoDI thoDI vAre nahera vize ane pasAra thatI sTImaro vize mAhitI apAtI hatI. saune chApelI patrikA paNa apAtI hatI, jemAM panAmAnI nahe2no TUMko ItihAsa ApavAmAM Avyo hato. panAmAnI nahera bAMdhavAno pahelo vicAra amerikanone Avyo hato ema nahi kahI zakAya. kolaMbase amerikAnI zodha karI te pachInAM thoDAM ja varSamAM, I.sa. 1524mAM spenanA rAjA cArlsa pAMcamAe panAmAnA pradezanI nahera bAMdhavAnI dRSTie mojaNI karAvI hatI. paraMtu eka yA bIjA kAraNe nahera bAMdhavAnuM bhAre kAma zarU thaI zakyuM nahi. ema karatAM traNa saikA jeTalo samaya vItI gayo. tyAra pachI suejhanI nahera bAMdhanAra phrenca ijaneronI phrenca caeNnala kaMpanI e I.sa. 1880mAM 5nAmAnI nahera bAMdhavA mATe hakka meLavyA. vIsa varSa sudhI e ijaneroe paNa mAthAkUTa karI. paraMtu paise teo pahoMcI zakyA nahi ane e pradezamAM vAraMvAra thatA pILA tAva (Yellow Fever)nA rogacALAne kAraNe teo thAkI gayA. I.sa. 1903mAM panAmAne svataMtra thavAmAM pote madada karI te vakhate yunAiTeDa sTeTse panAmA pAsethI nahera bAMdhavA mATenI jamInano vistAra ghaNI moMghI zarato maMjUra rAkhIne mAgI lIdho. e karAranI mukhya zarato A pramANe hatI : (1) panAmAnI svataMtratA mATe yunAiTeDa sTeTse bAMyadharI ApavI. (2) A jamInanA hakka bhogavavA mATe yunAiTeDa sTeTse panAmAne tarata eka karoDa DaoNlara ApavA. (3) naheranuM bAMdhakAma pUruM thaI jAya tyArathI yunAiTeDa sTeTse so varSa sudhI dara varSe naheranA bhADApeTe TharAvelI vArSika 2kama panAmAne ApavI. 276 * pravAsa-darzana

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(4) phrenca loko nahera bAMdhavAno potAno haka jato karIne te yunAiTeDa sTeTsane Ape e mATe yunAiTeDa sTeTse phrenca kaeNnAla kaMpanIne cAra karoDa DaoNlara cUkavavA. (5) A pradezamAM keTalAka lokonI potAnI aMgata mAlikInI jagyA hatI. te jagyA temanI pAsethI vecAtI laI levA peTe amerikAe Azare pacAsa lAkha DaoNlara kharcavA. (3) koloMbiyA panAmAnI bAbatamAM pharI dakhalagIrI na kare e zarate amerikAe kolaMbiyAne aDhI karoDa DaoNlara cUkavavA. ATalI moTI rakama cUkavI amerikAe e DuMgarALa vistAramAM nahe2nuM khodakAma zarU karyuM, paraMtu eka vikaTa ijanerI samasyA UbhI thaI. te jo ukelI na zakAya to pANInI nahe2 mATe amerikAe kareluM kharca pANImAM paDI jAya. paraMtu amerikAe duniyAnA buddhizALI ijanerone kAme lagADIne chevaTe e samasyA ukelI. eTalA mATe to duniyAnI ajAyabIomAM panAmAnI kaeNnAlanI gaNanA thavA lAgI. zI hatI e ijanerI samasyA ? sAmAnya rIte be samudranI sapATImAM bharatIoTa pramANe pAMca-dasa phUTano thoDo pharaka paDe. paraMtu eNTalAnTika ane paeNsiphika e be mahAsAgaro vacce sapATIno taphAvata lagabha 85 phUTa jeTalo jaNAyo. have jo A be mahAsAgaro vacce saLaMga sAdI nahera karavAmAM Ave to UMcI sapATIe Avela paeNsiphika mahAsAgaranAM pANI dhodhanI jema eNTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAM dhasyA kare. ema thAya to jahAjonI avarajavaranA hetu mATe A nahera bAMdhavAnuM je Ayojana karavAmAM AvyuM hatuM te nirarthaka nIvaDe, kema ke eka yA bIjI bAjuthI koI paNa jahAja salAmata rIte pasAra thaI zake nahi. amerikAe A nahe2 ka2vAnuM mAthe lIdhuM tyAre ene khabara nahotI ke AvI eka vikaTa samasyA AvIne UbhI raheze. paraMtu ijaneroe naheranA baMne cheDe pANIne judA judA hojamAM bAMdhI laIne eTale Locks karIne, jahAjone eka sapATIethI bIjI sapATIe laI javAnI vyavasthA karI. vaLI e mATe UMcI sapATIe AvelI cAgresa nadI para baMdha bAMdhI tyAM gADhuna nAmanuM vizALa sarovara taiyAra karyuM ane naheranI sapATInI vadhaghaTa mATe e sarovaranA pANIno upayoga karyo. A nahera bAMdhavA pAchaLa I.sa. 1903 thI I.sa. 1913 sudhIno eTale ke lagabhaga agiyAra varSano samaya amerikAne lAgyo. te daramiyAna paMcAvana hajAra majUro to pILA tAvamAM mRtyu pAmyA. nahera pAchaLa amerikAe panAmA - (da. amerikA) * 277

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badhuM maLIne lagabhaga traNa abaja DaoNlaranuM kharca karyuM. A eka ghaNuM moTuM, mAtra amerikane ja paravaDe evuM, Arthika sAhasa hatuM. amerikA tyAre paNa keTalo dhanADhya deza hato teno khyAla panAmAnI nahera pAchaLa eNe karelA kharca parathI karI zakAya che. nahera jovA ame gayAM tyAre mirAphalorsamAM jANe meLo bharAyo hato. naheramAM aDoaDa banAvelA traNa hojanI taddana najIka ApaNane javA devAmAM Ave che. ame tyAM sudhI pahoMcyAM. daramiyAna eTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAMthI eka jahAja AvyuM. e jahAjane mahAsAgaranI sapATIthI ekatrIsa phUTa UMce naheranA e cheDe gArna laoNksamAM lAvavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. have mirAphalorsamAM ene enI pANInI sapATIvALA hojamAM dAkhala karAyuM. te dAkhala thaI gayA pachI tojano jADo lokhaMDI daravAjo baMdha thaI gayo. hojamAM yaMtra vaDe tarata pANI umeravAmAM AvyuM. jema jema pANI vadhatuM gayuM tema tema temAM taratuM jahAja UMce AvatuM gayuM. hojamAM ATha miniTamAM sattAvIza phUTa jeTalI sapATI UMcI thAya eTaluM, lagabhaga eMsI lAkha gelana jeTaluM pANI umerAyuM. hojamAM nIce dekhAtI sTImaramAM beThelA je pravAsIone jovA mATe amAre moTuM nIcuM karavuM paDatuM hatuM te pravAsIone ame have sIdhuM moDhuM rAkhIne joI zakavA lAgyAM. pahelA ane bIjA hojanI pANInI sapATI have sarakhI thaI gaI. tyAra pachI e benI vacceno lokhaMDano daravAjo yaMtra vaDe khUlI gayo. sTImarane kaptAne bIjA naMbaranA hojamAM dhIme dhIme haMkArI lIdhI. lokonA ToLA sAthe ame paNa e hoja pAse khasyA. hojano e daravAjo baMdha thayo. pahelA naMbaranA hojamAM umerAyeluM sattAvIsa phUTa jeTaluM pANI pAchuM ochuM thaI gayuM. e pANI have bIjA naMbaranA hojamAM bharAI gayuM. pariNAme bIjA naMbaranA hojamAM pANInI sapATI have copana phUTa jeTalI UMcI thaI gaI. e pramANe sTImara paNa kula copana phUTa UMcI thaI gaI. aMdara UbhelA pravAsIone ame have UMcuM moDhuM karIne jovA lAgyA. bIjA hojanI pANInI sapATI have trIjA hajanI sapATI jeTalI thaI gaI. e benI vacceno daravAjo khUlatAM sTImara sarakhI sapATIvALA trIjA hojamAM dAkhala thaI. daravAjo baMdha thayo. A trIjA-hojanI pANInI sapATI paeNsiphika mahAsAgaranAM pANInI sapATI jeTalI hatI. eno chello daravAjo khUlatAM sTImara naheramAM saDasaDATa cAlavA lAgI ane thoDuM aMtara pAra karI pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM dAkhala thaI gaI. 278 * pravAsa-darzana

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A traNa hajamAM pANInI vadhaghaTa karavAnuM kAma yaMtraracanA vaDe divasarAta niyamitapaNe cAlyA kare che. rojanI lagabhaga cAlIsa (bAra mahine lagabhaga sADAbAra hajAra) sTImaronI avarajavara A naheramAM thAya che. nahera pasAra karavA mATe baMne mahAsAgaramAM sTImarone nahera pAse AvIne lAinamAM UbhA rahevuM paDe che. eka mahAsAgaramAMthI nahera dvArA bIjAmAM pahoMcatAM AThathI soLa kalAka lAge che, paraMtu ethI dakSiNa amerikAne cheDe AvelA kepa hornanA tophAnI ane jokhamI samudranuM ATha hajAra mAIlanuM cakkara bacI jAya che. mirAphalorsanA hoja ekaso dasa phUTa pahoLA ane hajAra phUTa lAMbA che. enI aMdara samAI zake eTalI moTI sTImara panAmAnI naheramAMthI pasAra thaI zake. sittera varSa pahelAM jyAre A hoja bAMdhavAmAM AvyA tyAre te pahelethI eTalA badhA lAMbA ane pahoLA rAkhavAmAM AvyA hatA ke haju paNa moTAmAM moTI sTImaro temAMthI pasAra thaI zake che. duniyAnI moTAmAM moTI sTImaromAM atyAre jenI gaNanA thAya che te kvIna elijhAbetha-Tu' nAmanI Adhunika jabaradasta moTI sTImara (je 105 phUTa pahoLI ane 963 phUTa lAMbI che) paNa panAmAnI naheramAMthI pasAra thaI gaI che. naherano mAtra eka vakhata upayoga karavA mATe eNe 68500 DaoNlaranuM bhADuM cUkavyuM hatuM. sTImaranuM keTalA Tana vajana che te pramANe bhADuM nakkI thAya che. eka sTImaranuM sarerAza bhADuM paMdara hajAra DaoNlara che. panAmAnI naheramAMthI eka vakhata pasAra thavA mATenuM vadhumAM vadhu bhADuM 'elijhAbetha - Tue cUkavyuM che. ane ochAmAM ochuM bhADuM keTaluM cUkavAyuM haze ? mAtra chatrIsa senTa eTale ke pUro eka DaoNlara paNa nahi. koI sTImaranuM ATaluM ochuM bhADuM to hoI ja na zake. paraMtu A bhADu cUkavyuM hatuM ricArDa helibarTana nAmanA eka sAhasike I.sa. 1928mAM. eNTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAMthI panAmAnI naheramAM taratAM taratAM te paeNsiphika mahAsAgaramAM dAkhala thayo hato. tene mATe paNa eka hojamAMthI bIjA hojamAM pANInI vadhaghaTa karavAmAM AvI hatI. enuM tyAre advitIya gaNAtuM sAhasa jovA mATe hajAro mANaso ekatra thayA hatA. panAmAnI naheramAM sTImaronI avarajavara joI ame zaheramAM pAchA pharyA. bajAramAM thoDuMka pharyA. eka dukAnamAM bahArathI dekhAya ema gAMdhIjIno moTo phoTo laTakAvelo hato. e jotAM ja amane thayuM ke kadAca koI bhAratIya vepArInI dukAna haze. anumAna sAcuM paDyuM. saurASTranA eka vRddha gujarAtI vepArInI e dukAna hatI. ame emanI sAthe gujarAtI bhASAmAM vAta karI panAmA - (da. amerikA) * 279

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eno amane ane e vepArIne bahu AnaMda thayo. ghaNAM varSothI teo panAmAM jaIne vaselA che. saMjogovazAt teo kyAreya bhArata pAchA AvI zakyA nathI, paraMtu bhArata temane vAraMvAra yAda AvyA kare che. emaNe amAre mATe ThaMDuM pINuM maMgAvyuM ane panAmAmAM kyAM kyAM pharavA jevuM che te samajAvyuM. panAmAmAM nezanala thiyeTara, sTeDiyama, DipArTamenTala sTorsa, carca, sinegoga vagere sthaLoe pharIne ame pAchA pharyA. amArI phalAiTa to madharAta pachI hatI eTale koI utAvaLa nahotI. amAro TaeNksI-DrAivara paNa sAro hato. eNe amane nirAMte badhe pheravyAM. - sAMje sAteka vAge ame eNraporTa upara AvI pahoMcyAM. jevI TaeNksI UbhI rahI ke tarata bIjA TaeNksI-DrAivare AvIne amArA TaeNksI-DrAivarane spenizamAM kaMIka kahyuM. vAtacIta parathI ema samajAvyuM ke bIjA koI gharAka taiyAra che ane emane aMgrejI bolanAra TeksI-DrAivara joIe che. pote jo e gharAkanI sAthe jhaTa nakkI nahi karI le to bIjo koI TaeNksI-DrAivara temane laI jaze. eTale eNe ame jevAM TaeNksImAMthI Utaryo ke tarata bIjA gharAka sAthe jhaTapaTa TharAvIne TaeNksImAM besADI dIdhAM, eNe amArI sAthe have paisAnI utAvaLa karavA mAMDI. enA avAjamAMthI have vinaya adRzya thaI gayo hato. ame TrAvelarsa ceka Apyo. eNe levAnI nA pADI. kahyuM, "atyAre have eNrapaoNrTanI beMka baMdha thaI gaI. huM enA rokaDA karAvavA kyAM jAuM ?' - je eno prazna hato te amAro paNa prazna hato. eNe TrAvelarsa ceka levAnuM savAre kabUla rAkhyuM hatuM te ame yAda karAvyuM, eTale e mUMjhAyo. paraMtu navA gharAkane moDuM thatuM hatuM eTale eno mijAja badalAyo. savAre ame to zarata karI ja hatI, chatAM have amAre bIjo kaMIka rasto zodhavo rahyo. huM doDyo eraporTanI judI judI dukAnomAM. chevaTe eka dukAnadAre kaMIka kharIdavAnI ane ghaNo ocho bhAva ApavAnI zarate TrAvelarsa ceka levAnI hA pADI. amAre to chUTako ja nahoto. thoDI cokaleTa lIdhI. ceka vaTAvIne eskeleTara upara huM nIce Utarato hato. mane joIne TaeNksI-DrAivara tarata mArI pAse doDato AvI pahoMcyo. meM enA DaoNlara cUkavyA. laIne e tarata bhAgyo. paraMtu tyAra pachI erapaoNrTamAM navA gharAka mATe AMTA mArato te dekhAyo. ame pUchyuM to kahyuM ke TaeNksImAM besADelA enA gharAka bIjA koIkanI TaeNksImAM cAlyA gayA hatA. eraporTamAM ame lagabhaga ghaNAM vahelAM AvI pahoMcyAM hatAM. amAre mAtra samaya pasAra karavAno rahyo hato. ame eNrapaoNrTamAM pahele ane bIje 280 4 pravAsa-darzana

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mALe AvelI, navIna cIja vastuothI susajja judI judI dukAnomAM cakkara lagAvyA. pravAsIo ochA hatA eTale dukAnomAM giradI nahotI. navI navI cIja-vastuo jovAnI anukULatA hatI. bicArA dukAnadAro ame sAcA gharAka chIe ema samajIne hoMze hoMze badhuM batAvatA. paNa pachIthI to ame dukAnamAM pravezatAM ja spaSTatA karI detAM ke "kSamA karajo, mAtra najara karavA ame AvyA chIe, kharIdavA nahi.' evAmAM eNrapaoNrTamAM pravezadvAramAM DholanagArAM ane pipUDIono avAja Avyo. eraporTamAM vaLI A avAja kyAMthI ? ame nIce jaI joyuM to eka varaghoDo eNrapaoNrTanA makAnamAM dAkhala thaI rahyo hato. emAM keTalAka habasIo hatA; keTalAka jaMgalI kALA AdivAsI jevA lAgatA hatA; gorA ane kALAnI varNasaMkara prajA jevA gherA bhUriyA jevA paNa keTalAka hatA. zAno A varaghoDo che e samajatAM thoDI vAra lAgI, kema ke iMgliza to koI bole nahi. thoDI vAre samaja paDI ke pAsenA eka gAmanI AdivAsI komano eka yuvaka lagna mATe jamAIkA TApu jaI rahyo che ane tene vaLAvavA mATe AkhuM gAma AvyuM che. jema jema ToLAnAM mANaso aMdara dAkhala thatAM gayAM tema tema temAMnAM keTalAMka yuvaka-yuvatIoe lokanRtya cAlu karyuM. A AdivAsInuM nRtya paNa jovA jevuM hatuM. emanAM gAmaThI nagArAM-pipUDI vAgatAM jAya ane loko nAcatAM jAya. lagabhaga eka kalAka upara e nRtya cAlyuM. nRtya karanArAMmAMnAM ghaNAMne moDhe sapheda ane lAla raMga lagADIne suzobhana karyuM hatuM. keTalAka zarAbanAM tAnamAM hoya tevuM paNa jaNAyuM. A dRzya jovA mATe bIjA keTalAka pravAsIo paNa vartuLAkAre AsapAsa UbhA rahI gayA ane AdivAsIonA saMgItamAM tALIo vaDe sAthe purAvavA lAgyA. ame paNa temanA kahevAthI tALIono tAla purAvyo. samaya thayo eTale jamAIkAnI phalAiTanuM enAunsamenTa thayuM ane jamAIkAno jamAI enA be-traNa vaDIlo ane mitro sAthe kasTamsamAM dAkhala thayo. dhIme dhIme ToLuM vikharAyuM ane je traNa basamAM besIne teo badhAM AvyAM hatAM temAM teo pAchA pharyA. eraporTamAM pAchI zAMti prasarI gaI. samaya pasAra karavAnI amArI samasyA sahaja rIte UkalI gaI. AdivAsIonI jAna paNa have jeTa vimAnomAM javA lAgI che eTalo duniyAno utkarSa joIne amane harSa thayo. amArI phalAiTanI jAherAta thatAM ame paNa lokaramAMthI sAmAna laI kasTamsamAM dAkhala thayAM ane eno vidhi patAvI rio-Di-jAnero javA vimAnamAM beThAM. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) panAmA - (da. garikA) 4 281

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37 baoNgoTAno anubhava (kolombiyA-da a.) leTina (dakSiNa) amerikAmAM lokonI Arthika sthiti yuropa ke uttara amerikAnA loko jevI sArI nathI. gorI prajA Arthika dRSTie pachAta hoya to te dakSiNa amerikAnI che. AphrikA, osTreliyA ke nyUjhIlenDamAM gorI prajA paiseTake ThIka ThIka sukhI che. koI paNa prajA paisAnI bhIDamAM AvatI hoya to tenAmAM keTalAka durguNo sahaja rIte Ave che. corI, lUMTa, chetarapiMDI, svArthI manovRtti, ApeluM vacana na pALavuM, khoTI khuzAmata karavI, nAnI vAtamAM takarAra, vepAradhaMdhAmAM tIvra rasAkasI, zrImaMtonI IrSyA vagere lakSaNo e lokomAM tarata najare paDe che. gorI prajAnA saMparkamAM ApaNe AvyA tyArathI teo jIvana ane raheNIkaraNImAM ApaNAM karatAM caDhiyAtA che ema jovAne ApaNe TevAyelA chIe. yuropa ane amerikAnI gorI prajAne jotAM ApaNI e chApa daDha rahe che, paraMtu leTina amerikAnAM gAmaDAMomAM pharIe to nirdhana gorAM lokonuM eka juduM ja citra jovA maLe che. nyUyorkamAM amane cetavavAmAM AvyAM hatAM ke leTina amerikAmAM jaIe tyAre amAre amArI pAse bahu jokhama rAkhavuM nahi. basamAM ke rastAmAM jatAMAvatAM pAkITa saMbhALavuM; rastAmAM badhAMnA dekhatAM khissAmAMthI pAkITa kADhavuMmUkavuM nahi; eraporTa ane bIje sthaLe sAmAna sAcavo; sAmAnane barAbara tALuM mAravuM. alabatta, bhAratIya pravAsIo mATe A badhI sUcanAo navI 282 9 pravAsa-darzana

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nathI. ApaNe bhAratamAM A badhI vAtothI sAmAnya rIte TevAyelA hoIe chIe, paraMtu yuropa-amerikAnA loko mATe te sUcanAo agatyanI che. bonojha AirisathI sAnatiyAgo, lA pAjha, limA ane tyAMthI baoNgoTA thaIne mAyAmI pahoMcavAno amAro kAryakrama hato. paraMtu bonojha AirisamAM rahetA amArA eka amerikana mitra mi. molinArIe pUchyuM : 'tame baoNgoTA javAnA cho ?' 'hA, kema ?" to tyAM bahu sAcavajo. cora zahera che. huM be vakhata gayo hato. eka vakhata TaeNksImAMthI mArI baeNga upaDI gaI hatI. bIjI vakhata hoTelanA rUmamAMthI mAro kemero corAI gayo hato. tyAM TaeNksIvALA paNa cora che. ajANyA videzIone teo phasAve che." AvI vAta sAMbhaLI eTale amArA manamAM phALa paDI. leTina amerikAnA kolambiyA (Colombia) nA pATanagara baoNgoTA ame pahelI ja vAra javAnAM hatAM. ajANyo deza hato. tyAMnI bhASA amane AvaDe nahi ane iMgliza tyAM koI jANe nahi. evA zaheramAM ApaNo sAmAna corAI jAya to ApaNe acAnaka muzkelImAM mukAI jaIe. polIsamAM phariyAda karI zakAya, paraMtu teno nikAla kevo ane keTalA divase thAya te nakkI na hoya ane teTalA divasa ApaNe tyAM rokAvAnuM na hoya. saMbhALa rAkhavAne to ApaNe bhAratIya loko sahaja rIte TevAyelA hoIe, paraMtu koI sthaLe jatAM pahelAM koI ApaNane cetave to ApaNA manamAM te vize jAtajAtanA tarkavitarka thavA lAge. meM mArAM patnIne kahyuM, "A badhAM zaheromAM baoNgoTAmAM ApaNe bahu sAcavavuM paDaze." hA, paNa e bhAIe kahyuM tyArathI koNa jANe kema baoNgoTA javA mATe mAruM mana UThI gayuM che." "to pachI zuM karaze ? ApaNI TikiTa to baoNgoTA thaIne mAyAmI javAnI che.' erakaMpanIne kahIne ApaNe baoNgoTA kaeNnsala na karAvI zakIe ?' karAvI zakIe. mane paNa ema ja lAge che.' meM kahyuM, "videzamAM asvastha manathI koI zaheramAM javuM enA karatAM e zahera choDI devuM e ja uttama rasto che." ame tarata sIdhA eNkaMpanInI ophisamAM pahoMcI gayAM ane limAthI baoNgoTA javAnI phalAITa kensala karAvI. ene lIdhe lA pAjha javAnuM paNa baoNgoTAno anubhava - 283

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mAMDI vALavuM paDyuM, kAraNa ke tyAM thaIne javA mATe bIjI koI anukULa phalAiTa na hatI. limAthI sIdhA uttara amerikAmAM mAyAmI javA mATenI phalAiTa ame kanpharma karAvI lIdhI. bonojha Airisa, lAplATA vagere ArjenTinAnAM zaheromAM keTalAka divasa pharIne ame bonojha Airisa choDyuM. cilInA pATanagara sAnatiyAgo jaIne tyAMthI tarata ero perunI phalAiTamAM bapore traNa vAge ame limAM pahoMcyAM. e phlAiTa agAunAM eraporTathI moDI thavAne kAraNe tene musApharo bahu maLyA na hatA. limAnA eNrapaoNrTa upara ame phakta sAteka musApharo UtaranAra hatAM. ame UtaryA. kasTamsanI vidhimAMthI pasAra thatAM ochA pravAsIone kAraNe bahu vAra nahIM lAge, e vAtanI amane rAhata hatI. vaLI sAMja paDatAM pahelAM hoTelamAM nirAMte pahoMcI javAze ane eka-be kalAka bahAra pharavAno samaya maLaze e vAtano amane AnaMda paNa hato. ghaDIkamAM badho sAmAna paNa AvI pahoMcyo. saue potapotAno sAmAna oLakhIne laI lIdho. amArA sAmAnamAMthI be baeNga AvI gaI, paraMtu mArAM patnInI baeNga haju AvI na hatI. tapAsa karI to kahevAmAM AvyuM ke vimAnamAMthI ATalo ja sAmAna Utaryo che. ame ciMtAmAM paDyAM. pharaja paranA eNro perunA oNphisarane phariyAda karI. vimAna haju UbhuM hatuM, eTale e jAte vimAnamAM tapAsa karavA gayo. daramiyAna je bIjA pAMceka musApharo UtaryA hatA te sahu cAlyA gayA hatA ane tarata bIjI phalAiTa na hatI eTale pharaja paranA kasTama adhikArIo paNa cAlyA gayA. amAro sAmAna tapAsavA mATe phakta eka adhikArIne rokavAmAM Avyo. pachI to e paNa UMconIco thavA lAgyo. "mArI DyUTI pUrI thAya che" ema kahIne thoDI vAre e paNa cAlyo gayo. cokIdAre kasTamsamAMthI bahAra nIkaLavAno daravAjo baMdha karI dIdho ane tALuM mArIne cAlyo gayo. kasTamsa vibhAgamAM have mAtra ame baMne beThAM hatAM, jANe moTI jelamAM amane na pUravAmAM AvyAM hoya ! eNro perunA oNphisara vimAnamAM tapAsa karIne keTalIka vAra Avyo. eNe kahyuM, "vimAnamAM tamArI baeNga nathI. ethI nakkI thAya che ke tamArI baeNga vimAnamAM caDI ja nathI.' meM pUchyuM, "to pachI amAre zuM karavuM ?' 284 A pravAsa-darzana

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'tamArI hoTelanuM nAma Apo. bIjI phalAiTamAM baeNga AvI pahoMcaze eTale ame tamane jaNAvazuM.' e to kharuM, paraMtu amArAM kapaDAMnI baeNga AvI nathI. vaLI amAre keTalIka cIjavastuo tarata kharIdavI paDaze, eTale tamAre ovaranAiTa elAyansa ApavuM joIe. baeNga maLatAM keTalA divasa lAgaze, te koNa cokkasa kahI zake ?" pahelAM to eNe inkAra karyo. paraMtu AMtararASTriya vimAnasevAnA kAyadA pramANe erakaMpanI AvuM bhaththu ApavA baMdhAyelI che tenA para meM vAraMvAra bhAra mUkyo. eTale te niyama mujaba pacAsa DaoNlara ApavA saMmata thayo. paraMtu te pahelAM amAre kasTamsamAMthI bahAra nIkaLavAnuM hatuM, ane amAro sAmAna tapAsanAra koI adhikArI tyAM hAjara na hato. e na Ave tyAM sudhI daravAjo khUle nahIM ane ame bahAra jaI zakIe nahIM. eNro perano oNphisara kasTamsanA eka adhikArIne keTalIka vAre zodhI lAvyo. amAro sAmAna tapAsAyo, paraMtu bahAra nIkaLavAmAM vAra lAgI, kAraNa ke daravAjAne tALuM mArIne cAlyo gayelo cokIdAra jaDato na hato. kasTamsa oNphisara gayo ane thoDI vAre tene zodhI lAvyo. daravAjo khUlyo ane ame bahAra nIkaLyAM. sAmAna sAthe ame eNro perunA oNphisara sAthe eNro perunA kAunTara upara gayAM. amArI baeNga maLI nathI. te mATenAM, kAgaLiyAM taiyAra karavAnAM hatAM. kAunTara sAme laoNnjamAM amane besADI Aphisara potAnI oNphisamAM aMdara gayo. vimAnamAMthI UtaryAne aDhI kalAka vItI gayA hatA ane kAgaLiyAMno A vidhi karavAmAM bIjo eka kalAka vItI gayo. rAta to kyAranI paDI gaI hatI. ame e badhA kAgaLo upara sahI karatAM hatAM tyAM eka mANasa doDato Avyo. te begeja sekazanamAMthI Avyo hato. teNe kahyuM, "ero perunI phalAiTanI eka baeNga sAmAnamAM paDI rahI che. amane thayuM ke, kadAca amArI ja baeNga haze. ame pUchyuM, "kevA raMganI baeNga che ?' "lIlA raMganI.' teNe kahyuM ane potAnA be hAtha vaDe tenI sAijha batAvI. "nakkI e amArI ja baeNga hovI joIe.' ame ero perunA oNphisarane kahyuM. ene paNa ema ja lAgyuM. tenI tapAsa karavA mATe amAro kasTamsamAMthI pasAra thayelo sAmAna ero perunA kAunTaramAM aMdara mUkI oNphisaranI sAthe ame baeNgeja sekzanamAM gayAM. tyAM ghaNI baeNgo paDelI hatI. pharaja para UbhelA baoNgoTAno anubhava * 285

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mANase je baeNga batAvI tene raMga, sAijha ane tALA uparathI. ame tarata oLakhI lIdhI. oNphisare amArA begeja TeganA naMbara sAthe te meLavI lIdhI. - pelA mANase kahyuM, "kanveyara belTa upara ADI thaI javAne lIdhe A baeNga kasTamsa vibhAgamAM pahoMcI nahIM, paraMtu nIce paDI gaI hatI." baeNga maLI gaI ethI amane AnaMda thayo. bhale moDuM thayuM, paraMtu amArI ciMtA TaLI. have prazna A baeNgane kasTamsamAMthI bahAra kADhavAno hato. ame eka vakhata to kasTamsamAMthI bahAra nIkaLI gayAM hatAM, ane amArA pAsaporTamAM sikkA paDI gayA hatA. eTale kasTamsanA pAchalA daravAjethI ame kasTamsamAM pharI dAkhala thayAM. ero peruno oNphisara dareka kAunTara upara amArI vAta kaheto gayo ane ame ema jaladI nIkaLatAM gayAM. sAmAna tapAsanAra oNphisare amArI baeNga kholAvI nahi ane upara tapAsyAnI nizAnI tarata karI ApI. DimAnA kasTamsamAMthI ame A rIte be vAra pasAra thayAM. bahAra AvIne ame pAchA ero perunA kAunTara upara gayAM. je badhAM kAgaLiyAM taiyAra karyA hatAM teno have kaMI artha na hato eTale te phADI nAMkhyAM. eNro perunA oNphisare badhI takalIpha lIdhI te mATe teno ame AbhAra mAnyo. pachI ero perunA oNphisarane meM kahyuM, "A baeNga traNa kalAkathI baeNgeja sekazanamAM paDI rahI hatI to tame te vakhate tyAM paNa tapAsa karI hota athavA begeja sekazanamAM pharaja paranA mANase te ja vakhate tamane jANa karI hota to amArA traNa-cAra kalAka bagaData nahIM. ane tamane A badhI takalIpha paData nahi. ATalI badhI bedarakArI bhAgye ja koI eraporTa upara jovA maLe che." huM oNphisarane kaheto hato tevAmAM mArAM patnInI najara baeNga upara gaI. tarata teNe kahyuM, "amArI baeNga upara eka bAju A moTo kApo zeno paDyo che ?' oNphisare kahyuM, "kadAca kanveyara belTa upara caDhatAM baeNga bIjI koI baeNga sAthe ghasAI haze." paraMtu teno kApo AvI rIte na paDe, ethI amane vahema paDyo. baeNganuM tALuM kholIne aMdara joyuM to kapaDAM ane vastuo astavyasta hatAM. ethI thayuM ke tALuM kholyA vagara bAjumAMthI tIkSNa hathiyAra vaDe baeNganuM DhAkaNuM UMcuM karIne koIke kazuM kADhavAno prayatna karyo lAge che. badhI vastuo tapAsI joI to temAMthI be sADI ane bIjI keTalIka jhINI vastuo ochI thayelI jaNAI. savAre baeNga taiyAra karIne baMdha karatI vakhate je be sADI upara mUkavAmAM AvI hatI te baeNganuM DhAMkaNuM UMcuM karIne, kheMcIne kADhI levAmAM AvI che ema nakkI 286 eka pravAsa-darzana

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thayuM. ame oNphisa2ne kahyuM, 'amane vahema paDe che ke amArI baeNga corInA AzayathI jANI-joIne baeNgeja sekazanamAM rAkhI mUkavAmAM AvI hatI.' oNphisa2 bIjuM to zuM kahe ? eNe kahyuM, 'limAnA A eNrapaoNrTamAM ghaNI vAra AvI rIte corI thAya che, paraMtu ahIM to lazkarI zAsana che. koI dAdaphariyAda nathI..' corAyelI vastuo mATe kleima karavA mATe ame phaoNrma bharyuM ane oNphisarane ApyuM; paraMtu dakSiNa amerikAnI khoTamAM cAlatI era kaMpanIo pravAsInA mAtra saMtoSa khAtara AvAM phorma bharAvatI hoya che, kAraNa ke eno javAba amane kyAreya maLyo nathI. baoNgoTAnI amane je bIka hatI teno anubhava limAe amane karAvI dIdho. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) baoNgoTAno anubhava * 287

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38. vI.AI.pI. rUma (peru-da.a.) ArjenTinAnA pATanagara bonojha AIrisathI perunA pATanagara limA jatAM meM ane mArAM patnIe amArI pAse raheluM videzI calaNa gaNI joyuM. bhArata sarakAre rojanA hisAbe kula divasonI gaNatarI karIne ApeluM calaNa dhAryA karatAM vadhu vaparAI gayuM hatuM. bonojha AIrisamAM eraporTa javA mATe basane badale amAre TeksI karavI paDI temAM ghaNuM calaNa vaparAyuM e to kharuM, paNa bIjA eka prasaMge paNa tyAM aNadhAryo kharca thaI gayuM hatuM. amArA eka leTina amerikana mitre eka prakArano paricaya amane karAvyo. emane bhArata vize keTaluMka jANavuM hatuM, eTale potAne ghare bapore jamavA mATe nimaMtraNa ApyuM. teo hoTela upara amane potAnI kAramAM teDavA AvyA. dUra parAmAM emane ghare ame gayAM. temanI sAthe jamyAM. bhArata vize nirAMte ghaNI vAto thaI. evAmAM emane acAnaka koIka moTA mANasa maLavA AvyA, paraMtu amAre pAchA pharavAno samaya thaI gayo hato. eTale teo mahemAnane besADI amane mUkavA mATe amArI sAthe nIce UtaryA, paraMtu amane hoTela upara mUkavA AvavAnI bAbatamAM teo dvidhAmAM paDI gayelA jaNAyA. emanI muzkelI ame samajI gayAM. hoTela upara mUkavA AvavA mATe ame emane nA pADI, eTale potAnI gADI cAlu karavAne badale rastA para jatI eka TeksI emaNe UbhI rakhAvI. amane emAM besADI TeksIvALAne emaNe potAnI speniza bhASAmAM amArI hoTelanuM nAma ane saranAmuM kahyuM. 288 9 pravAsa-darzana

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ame emanI vidAya lIdhI. hoTela upara pahoMcyAM. nahi dhAreluM TeksIkharca acAnaka AvI paDyuM. videzamAM keTalIka vAra kharcanI bAbatamAM ApaNI gaNatarI khoTI paDe che. limAmAM amAre have thoDI karakasara karavAno vakhata Avyo. hoTelanA ane khAvApIvAnA kharcamAM zakya teTalI karakasara karavI ema ame nakkI karyuM. limAmAM eNrapaoNrTamAM hoTela mATenA kAunTara para tapAsa karI ane hoTela bolivAra'mAM UtaravAnuM nakkI karyuM. limAnA madhya bhAgamAM eka vizALa coka pAse A hoTela AvelI che. hoTelamAM sAmAna sAthe ame dAkhala thayAM. kAunTa2 upara jaI risepzanisTane kahyuM, "erapaoNrTa upara ame hoTela mATe tapAsa karI to tamArI hoTela mAre bhalAmaNa karavAmAM AvI, eTale ame basamAM besI ahIM AvyAM chIe." AbhAra tamAro" risepzanisTe kahyuM. pachI pUchyuM, "tame kyAMthI Avo cho ? InDiyAthI AvatAM lAgo cho." hA jI.' mane tamArA deza pratye bahu mAna che. A bAju InDiyAthI koI koI vakhata pravAsIo AvI caDe che. tame kaMI kAma mATe AvyAM cho ke pharavA mATe ?' ame pharavA mATe AvyAM chIe. kusako pAse macca-picchamAM InkA saMskRtinA avazeSo jovAnI amArI khAsa IcchA che." bhale, bahu AnaMdanI vAta che !' tamArI hoTelanA dara zuM che ?' Dabala beDanA sATha amerikana DaoNlara." e to amAre mATe ghaNA vadhAre kahevAya. vaLI amane eNrapaoNrTa upara kahevAmAM AvyuM hatuM ke limAmAM hoTelomAM DiskAunTa apAya che. je mAge tene Ape che.' nA, barAbara ema nathI. A amArA nizcita dara che. paraMtu eka sAthe vadhAre pravAsIonuM rijharvezana hoya eTale ke grupa-bukiMga hoya to ame DiskAunTa jarUra ApIe chIe. te sivAya ApatA nathI.' mApha karajo, paNa bhAratathI bahu maryAdita pramANamAM videzI calaNa amane maLatuM hoya che. eTale amAre karakasara karavA DiskAunTanuM tamane pUchavuM paDyuM che. duniyAnAM ghaNAM zaheromAM ane khAsa karIne siMgApura, hoMgakoMga vI.AI.pI. rUma = 289

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vagere moTAM zaheromAM pravAsI mAgatAM bhUle eTaluM badhuM, ghaNI vAra to pacAsa TakA jeTaluM DiskAunTa apAya che. hA, tamArI vAta sAcI che. tyAM hoTelo vacce spardhA ghaNI che. leTina amerikAmAM paNa keTalIka hoTelomAM DiskAunTa apAya che. ame paNa grupabukiMga mATe trIsa TakA ApIe chIe, paraMtu koI eka-be pravAsI hoya to tene ApatA nathI." ame risepzanisTane amArI muzkelI samajAvI ane kahyuM, "tame tamArI sattA vAparIne amane DiskAunTa na ApI zako ? hoTelomAM DiskAunTa ApavAnI jAtajAtanI paddhatio hoya che, ane risepzanisTa ke maeNnejarane tenI badhI sattA hoya che." amArI sthiti samajIne amArI vinaMtI risepzanisTe mAnya rAkhI. eNe kahyuM, "bhale, huM tamane pacAsa TakA DiskAunTa ApuM chuM." e jANI amane bahu AnaMda thayo. eNe amArI pAse hoTelanuM phorma bharAvyuM. nAma-saranAmuM, pAsaporTa naMbara vagere vigato ame lakhI. phorma letAM risepzanisTa pUchyuM, "tamArA dezanI eralAInsa te era InDiyA ne ?' ame kahyuM, "hA; kema pUchavuM paDyuM ?' risepzanisTe kahyuM, "A phaoNrmamAM nIce tame lakho : eNra InDiyAnA sTApha membarsa.' kema ?' ame pacAsa TakA DiskAunTa koI paNa eNralAInsanA sTAphane ApIe chIe." paNa ame era InDiyAnA sTAphamAM nathI.' teno kazo vAMdho nahi. DiskAunTa ApavA mATe amAre ATaluM lakhAvI levuM joIe." paNa evuM khoTuM amArAthI kema lakhAya ?' tenI ciMtA karazo nahi. A phorma koInI pAse javAnuM nathI, ke ame koIne e vize pUchaparacha paNa karavAnA nathI." tamArI vAta sAcI che. paraMtu amArAthI evuM khoTuM kevI rIte lakhAya ?' tamane tamAre hAthe lakhavAmAM vAMdho hoya to na lakhazo. huM pachIthI mArA hAthe emAM lakhI nAkhIza. amArA oDiTa mATe eTaluM lakheluM hovuM jarUrI che." 290 9 pravAsa-darzana

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"nA, tame paNa evuM na lakhazo. tamArA sadUbhAva badala AbhAra. paraMtu evuM khoTuM lakhIne paisA bacAvavAnuM amane yogya lAgatuM nathI. ame emAM mAnatAM nathI. sahaja rIte tamArI sattA vAparIne DiskAunTa ApI zakatA ho to te amane maMjUra che.' tevI rIte to, mApha karajo, tamane bilakula DiskAunTa ApI zakAtuM nathI. tamAre pUro cArja ApavAno rahe che. jo amAro dara tamane na paravaDato hoya to huM kharekhara lAcAra chuM. tame kaho to bIjI sastI hoTelamAM tamAre mATe huM jarUra vyavasthA karAvI ApuM." ame vimAsaNa anubhavI. thoDI vAra vicAra karIne ame kahyuM, "tame amArA mATe ATalo badho saddabhAva batAvyo e pachI thoDA DaoNlaranI karakasara mATe bIjI hoTelamAM javuM e amane ThIka nathI lAgatuM. bhale tamArA dara pramANe amane rUma Apo.' rUmanI cAvI ApatAM risepzanisTa amArI sAme joI rahyo. limAmAM be divasa rahyA pachI vadhArAno sAmAna hoTela bolivAramAM jamA karAvI, limAthI vimAnamAM ame kukko gayAM. tyAMthI bIje divase mammupiccha gayAM. InkA saMskRtinA avazeSo joIne trIje divase ame limA pAchAM pharyA. te divase sAMje amAre mAyAmInI phlAITa pakaDavA mATe eraporTa javAnuM hatuM. amArI pAse pAMceka kalAka hatA. paraMtu zaheramAM pagAravadhArA mATe zikSakoe kADhelA saraghasane kAraNe tophAna phATI nIkaLyuM hatuM. bahAra pharavA javAmAM jokhama hatuM. amAre hoTelamAM purAI rahevuM paDyuM. hoTelanA daravAjAne tALAM mArI devAmAM AvyAM jethI bahArathI ajANyA mANaso aMdara ghUsI na Ave. pAMceka kalAka hoTelanA laoNnjamAM pasAra karavAnuM bahu anukULa nahotuM. to vaLI rUma levAmAM vinAkAraNa kharca thAya tema hatuM. eka sthaLethI bIje sthaLe pravAsa karatAM pahelAM ame sAmAyika ane prArthanA karatAM. rUma vinA te zakya nahotuM. paisA bacAvI sAmAyika ane prArthanA jatAM karavAM te amane yogya na lAgyuM. eTale rUma levAno ame nirNaya karyo. risepzanisTa pAse ame gayAM. temaNe pUchyuM, "tamAre rUma levAnuM anivArya che ? lonjamAM beso to na cAle ? zA mATe thoDAka kalAka mATe ATalA badhA DaoNlara kharcI nAkho cho ? bIjA koI pravAsIne huM Ama na kahuM paNa tamArI pAse videzI calaNa ochuM che e huM jANuM chuM mATe kahuM chuM.' meM kahyuM, 'tamArI vAta sAcI che. Ama to amAre rUmanI kazI ja jarUra vI.AI.pI. rUma - 291

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nathI. amAro sAmAna paNa bAMdhIne taiyAra rAkhyo che. paraMtu prArthanA ane amArI dhArmika vidhi karavA mATe amAre rUmanI jarUra che. leTina amerikAmAM amAro A chello divasa che. ame mAyAmI ane bIjAM zaheromAM karakasara karIzuM." te amArI sAme joI rahyo. kSaNa vAra vicAra karyA pachI, amane UbhAM rAkhIne te aMdaranI oNphisamAM gayo. thoDI vAre pAchA AvI, nokarane bolAvI enA hAthamAM cAvI ApatAM teNe kahyuM, "A mahemAnone vI.AI.pI. rUma kholI Apo.' "vI.AI.pI. rUmano to vadhAre cArja haze. tame amane koI sAdo rUma na ApI zako ?' risepzanisTe amane kahyuM, "amArI hoTelamAM khAsa nimaMtraNathI koI rASTranA pradhAna ke videzanA elacIo ke bIjA evA moTA mahemAno AvyA hoya to temane mATe A amAro vI.AI.pI. rUma che. teno koI cArja nathI. sAdA rUmano cArja che. tamane DiskAunTa maLatuM hovA chatAM tame te lIdhuM nahi eTale amArA maeNnejare tamAre mATe vI.AI.pI. rUmanI sagavaDa ApI che.' risepzanisTano sabhAva joI ame gaLagaLA banI gayAM. AlIzAna vI.AI.pI. rUmamAM sAmAyika tathA prArthanA karI, risepzanisTa ane menejarano AbhAra mAnI, mAyAmI javA mATe ame nIkaLyAM tyAre risepzanisTa ane menejara amane vaLAvavA mATe hoTelanI bahAra amArI TeksI sudhI AvyA. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) 292 9 pravAsa-darzana

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39 macchu-picchu (peru - da. amerikA) macchu-picchunAM darzana karavAno avasara amane sAMpaDyo te amArA jIvanano eka dhanya prasaMga che. macchu-picchu (athavA anya uccAra pramANe mAcu-pichu) ane InkA saMskRti vize keTalA loko jANatA haze ? madhya ane dakSiNa amerikAnA keTalAka bhAgomAM prAcIna saMskRtinA avazeSo maLI AvyA che. uttara ane dakSiNa amerikAnA khaMDonI dharatI ghaNI vizALa che. keTaloya pradeza pahADo ane jaMgalothI bharapUra che. keTalIya jamIna vaNakheDAyelI che. khodakAmo thAya to haju ghaNA avazeSo maLavAno saMbhava che. kolaMbasa bhAratanI saphare nIkaLyo, paNa pahoMcyo amerikAne kinAre. te vakhate eNe to ema ja mAnyuM ke pote bhArata pahoMcI gayo che. eTale eNe amerikAmAM je loko joyA teo bhAratIya eTale ke InDiyana che ema mAnyuM. atizaya ThaMDIne lIdhe InDiyanonA caherA ratAzavALA hatA, eTale teone reDa InDiyana tarIke oLakhavAmAM AvyA. kolaMbase bhUlathI oLakhAvelA InDiyano te kharekhara bhAratIya prajAnA ja vaMzajo che ema keTalAka nRvaMzazAstrIo have mAne che. yuropIya prajAmAMthI khAsa to spena ane porTugalanI prajAe uttara ane vizeSata: leTina (dakSiNa) amerikAmAM pahoMcIne vasavATa zarU karyo te pahelAM tyAM judI judI AdivAsI prajAo rahetI hatI. e prajAo mULa tyAMnI macchu-pi * 293

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vatanI hatI ke saikAo daramiyAna bahArathI bhamI bhamatI AvIne vasI hatI e vize koI nakkara pramANo maLatAM nathI; paraMtu anumAno thAya che. eka mata ema mAne che ke e badhI prajA be-pAMca hajAra ke tethI vadhu varSa pUrve bhAratamAMthI sthaLAMtara karatI karatI saikAo daramiyAna tyAM jaIne vaselI hovI joIe, ane bhAratano saMparka lupta thatAM kaMIka aMze jaMgalI jevI banI gaI hovI joIe. paraMtu A loko tyAM pahoMcyA haze kevI rIte ? eka mata ema mAne che, ke badhI prajAo vahANo dvArA hiMdI ane pesiphika mahAsAgara oLaMgatI krame krame peDhI-dara-peDhI AgaLa vadhatI tyAM pahoMcI hovI joIe. bIjA mata pramANe te prajAo bhAratamAMthI jamInamArge uttara dizAmAM cIna ane jApAna tarapha sthaLAMtara karatI karatI TheTha beriMganI sAmudradhunI sudhI pahoMcI haze ane tyAMthI vahANomAM sAme kinAre eTale ke uttara amerikAnA alAskAnA kinAre pahoMcI haze. tyAra pachI keTalIka prajA tyAMthI pAchI amerikAne pazcima kinAre nIce UtaratI UtaratI madhya ane dakSiNa amerikA sudhI pahoMcI haze. be-pAMca hajAra varSa pUrve uttara dhruva tarapha atyAre hoya che teTalI ThaMDI nahi hoya ane havAmAna anukULa haze, eTale A rIte te prajA sthaLAMtara karI zakI haze. meksiko, gvATemAlA, peru vagere dezomAM nirbheLa evA keTalAka AdivAsI ane yuropIya prajA sAthe varNasaMkara thayelA AdivAsIo Aje ApaNane jovA maLe che. e prajAnI mukhAkRti, rItarivAjo, bharatagUMthaNavALAM kapaDAM tathA khAvApIvAnI TevonuM keTaluMka sAmya bhAratIya prajA sAthe jovA maLe che, jema ke yuropIya prajA tIkhuM khAI zakatI nathI, paraMtu meksikonA keTalAka gorA loko bahu tIkhuM khAvAnA zokhIna hoya che. vaLI meksikonA keTalAka loko pAMune badale roTalI (meksikana zabda ToTiyA) khAya che. madhya ane dakSiNa amerikAmAM mAyA saMskRti, InkA saMskRti vagere saMskRtionA je prAcIna avazeSo maLe che te judA judA samayanA che. InkA saMskRtinA avazeSo enDijhanI parvatamALAmAM bhinna bhinna sthaLe jovA maLe che. A avazeSomAMnuM eka suprasiddha sthaLa te matsya- piccha nAmanuM nagara che. A avazeSonI khabara saMzodhakone ghaNI moDI maLI, kAraNa ke tyAM pahoMcavAnuM saraLa nahotuM. tyAM pahoMcavAno mArga nirjana verAnamAM, gIca jhADI ane UMcA caDhANane lIdhe lupta thaI gayo hato. porTugala ane khAsa to spenanA lokoe potAnI baMdUkanA jore tyAM hakUmata jamAvavA mATe sthAnika 294 4 pravAsa-darzana

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InkA prajAo upara je krUra atyAcAro karyA hatA ane temanAM mAlamilakatano nAza karyo hato teno ItihAsa ghaNo karuNa che. sadurbhAgye A vinAzamAMthI mathya-pichu bacI gayuM, paraMtu InkA rAjAno parAjaya thatAM, khorAka ane jIvana-jarUriyAtanI Itara vastuo na pahoMcatAM tyAM rahetA mANaso krame krame mRtyune zaraNa thayA haze ema manAya che. huM ane mArAM patnI leTina amerikAmAM peru javAnAM hatAM. eTale tyAM macya- picchanA sAMskRtika avazeSo najare nihALavAnI taka maLe to sAruM evI amArI bhAvanA hatI. macchu-piccha javAnuM eTaluM saheluM nathI. eTale tyAM kevI rIte jaI zakAya te mATe muMbaImAM ame perunI kosyuleTanI oNphisamAM tapAsa karI hatI. daramiyAna amane jANavA maLyuM ke amArA eka mitra zrI gulAbacaMdabhAI zAhanAM bahena zrImatI kRSNAbahena mammu-pichu jaI AvyAM che. ame temano saMparka karyo. emaNe kahyuM, "tame jo peru javAnAM ho, to mamyu-pichu javAnuM cUkatAM nahi. eTale dUra sudhI javAnI taka jaladI jaladI maLatI nathI.' mammu-pichu vize kRSNAbahene amane keTalIka mAhitI ApI ane kahyuM, ma-pichu javA mATe tamAre limAthI pahelAM kusko nAmanA zaheramAM javuM paDaze. tame kuko vimAnamAM javAnuM rAkhajo, kAraNake tyAM IMgliza bolanArAM mANaso koIka ja maLe che. lagabhaga bAraso kilomITara basamAM javAmAM be AkhA divasa lAgaze ane tamane ghaNI agavaDa paDaze, kAraNa ke tyAM basanI sagavaDa bahu sArI hotI nathI. vaLI, kuko jAo to tabiyata barAbara sAcavajo, kAraNa ke limA barAbara samudranI sapATIe AveluM zahera che ane kusko bAra hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe AveluM che. kuskonI havA ghaNI ja pAtaLI che. limAthI vimAnamAM lagabhaga poNA kalAkamAM tame sIdhA ATalI UMcAIe pahoMcI jazo eTale tamane prANavAyunI takalIpha paDavA lAgaze. mATe pahoMcIne tarata tame bahu haraphara karatAM nahi. sAmAna bane teTalo ocho laI jajo. sAdhAraNa vajanavALI baeNga ke bIjI koI cIjavastu tame UMcako ke jarAka jhaDapathI cAlo ke tarata tamane zvAsanI takalIpha thavA lAgaze. tame bezuddha thaI jazo. eNraporTa pahoMcIne tame moTara ke basamAM hoTela para jAva tyAre jyAM cAlavAnuM ke pagathiyAM caDavAnuM thAya tyAM Aste Aste DagalAM mAMDajo ane hoTelamAM jaIne tarata ja pathArImAM aDadho divasa sUI rahejo. ema karavAthI cAra-cha kalAkamAM tamArAM phephasAM dhIme dhIme pAtaLI havAthI TevAI jaze. A huM tamane amArA anubhava parathI kahuM chuM." maTu-pi ka 295

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kRSNAbahenanI sUcanA gabharAve evI hatI, paraMtu ame mathya- piccha javA utsuka hatAM. perunA limAM zaheramAM pahoMcIne ame badhI tapAsa karI lIdhI ane eka TrAvela kaMpanI dvArA ma-pichu javA mATe nAma noMdhAvI dIdhAM. TrAvela kaMpanIe paNa amane kusko jaIne tarata ArAma karavAnI salAha ApI. ame limAthI kakko gayAM. eNrapaoNrTa para UtarI moTaramAM besI hoTelamAM gayAM. rUmamAM jaIne sIdhA pathArImAM ja laMbAvI dIdhuM. besavAnuM ke rUmamAM haraphara karavAnuM paNa TALyuM. pUro ArAma karI sAMje ame zaheramAM laTAra mAravA nIkaLyA. kusko nAnuM zahera che. enI prAcInatA enAM makAno, rastAo ane AdivAsI mANasonA caherA uparathI dekhAI AvatI hatI. ame eka bajAramAM gayAM. tyAM hAtha-banAvaTanI cIjo vecAtI hatI. pAse pAse AvelI hATaDIo mAlasAmAnathI khIcokhIca hatI. vepArIomAM puruSo karatAM strIo vadhAre hatI. gheravALA caNiyA, lAMbI bAMyanAM polakAM, upara bharatakAma, lAMbA coTalA ke aMboDA, bharavADonAM jevAM hAthapaganAM ghareNAM, cAmaDIno raMga ane mukhAkRti, bolavAno laheko - e badhAmAM amane bhAratIya aNasAra varatAto hato. je dukAne ame jaIe te dukAnanI mAlika strI potAnI cIjavastuo batAvavAne badale mArAM patnInI sADI ane ghareNAM vize pUchaparacha karatI. alabatta, A badhuM IzArAthI thatuM, kAraNa ke amane ekabIjAnI bhASA AvaDatI nahotI. bIje divase ame kuskonI AsapAsa AvelA keTalAka sAMskRtika avazeSo joI AvyAM. amArI sAthe eka ITAliyana yugala hatuM. te aMgrejI bolatuM hatuM eTale ame rAjI thayAM. kaMIka vAta nIkaLatAM ITAliyana yuvatIe kahyuM, "ame sAta divasathI kuskomAM chIe." ema ? ahIM eTaluM badhuM jovAnuM che ?' ame pUchyuM. "nA, ame haju Aje pahelI vAra kuskonA sAMskRtika avazeSo jovA nIkaLyAM chIe." "to ATalA badhA divasa zuM karyuM ?' ame haoNspiTalamAM hatAM. amAro kAryakrama astavyasta thaI gayo che. pahele divase kakko pahoMcIne tarata ja ame bajAramAM pharavA nIkaLI paDyAM. A thoDAka parizramane pariNAme te divase bapore amane sakhata becenI lAgavA mAMDI. mAthuM sakhata dukhavA AvyuM. rastAmAM cAlatAM mArA patine cakkara AvyA 299 9 pravAsa-darzana

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ane paDI gayA. teo bebhAna thaI gayA. huM paNa zvAsanI takalIphathI gabharAI gaI hatI. amane baMnene haoNspiTalamAM laI javAmAM AvyAM. aThavADiyA pachI have amArI tabiyata sArI thaI che. DaoNkTare have amane pharavAnI rajA ApI e yugalanI vAta sAMbhaLI amane thayuM ke kuskomAM ame pahelAM ArAma karI lIdho e DahApaNanuM kAma karyuM. trIje divase savAre amAro kAryakrama macu-piccha javAno hato. kuskothI macca-pi choMtera mAIla dUra che. te kusko jeTalI UMcAIe nahi paNa cArapAMca hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe AveluM che. nerogeja TrenamAM (ApaNe tyAM mAtherAna ke simalAmAM hoya che tevI) tyAM javAya che, paraMtu A TrenanA pATAnI racanA vicitra che. thoDuM aMtara kApI Trena pATA badalI pAchI Ave che. ema cAra vAra Ava-jA kare che ane UMce caDhatI jAya che. pachI saLaMga eka ja dizAmAM nIce UtaratI jAya che. pahADanuM ghaNuM lAMbuM cakkara na levuM paDe mATe AvI racanA karI che. ame TrenamAM beThAM. maMda gatie DuMgara uparathI vaLAMko letI Trena nIce sarakatI jatI hatI. koI koI ThekANe pATAnI taddana najIka nAnakaDAM gharomAM gorI cAmaDIvALA grAma AdivAsIo rahetA hatA. gharo pAse kacaro puSkaLa paDelo hato. lokonAM kapaDAM gaMdAM ane phATelAM hatAM. chellAM kyAre teo nAhyA haze e vize ApaNA manamAM zaMkA thAya evA temanA dekhAva hatA. koI koI ThekANe relavenA pATAnI pAse mANaso zaucakriyA mATe beThelA paNa dekhAtA. - kuskonAM parAM jevAM nAnAM gAmo choDI amArI Trena jaMgalamAM AgaLa cAlI. vAtAvaraNa have svaccha ane cittane prasanna kare evuM hatuM. cAre bAju lIlI jhADI ane UMcA-nIcA DuMgaro hatA. taDako paDato hato. nIcenA pradezamAM jatAM havA dhIme dhIme jADI thatI hatI. traNa kalAkanA pravAsa pachI ame puenta ruInAjha nAmanA chellA sTezana upara AvI pahoMcyAM. ahIMthI amAre have basamAM ATha kilomITara hera-pina (Hair-pin) jevA cauda vaLAMkavALA raste upara javAnuM hatuM. ahIM basamAM besavA mATe paNa doDAdoDI thatI hatI. rijharvezana jevuM kazuM hatuM nahi. amAro gAIDa amane doDAvato, paraMtu badhAM doDI zakatAM na hatAM. jematema karIne judI judI basamAM besIne ame badhAM DuMgara upara pahoMcI gayAM. cAra-pAMca judI judI TUrisTa kaMpanInA pravAsIo ahIM ekaThA thayA hatA. amArA gAIDe amane badhAne ekatrita karI lIdhAM. resTorAMmAM laMca macca-piccha ka 297

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lIdhA pachI DuMgaranI Toca upara AvelA mathya-piSNunA avazeSo jovA te amane laI gayo. macca-pacchu e pahADanA eka zikhara uparanA vizALa sapATa vistAramAM pAMcaso varSa pahelAM vaseluM nAnakaDuM nagara che. jotAM ja enI bhavyatA najarane AkarSI le che. tadana pAse AvelA bIjA DuMgaranuM vadhu UMcuM zikhara enI bhavyatAmAM umero kare che. macca-picchanI zodha keliphorniyA ane hArvarDa yunivarsiTImAM ItihAsanA adhyApaka tarIke kAma karatA hirama biMgahAma (1875-1948) nAmanA honolulunA yuvAna ItihAsakAre karI hatI. dakSiNa amerikAno itihAsa zIkhavatAM zIkhavatAM e badhA pradezo najare nihALavAnI emane jijJAsA thaI; yunivarsiTIo taraphathI madada maLI ane vAraMvAra jaMgalo ane pahADIomAM taMbu sAthe emaNe pagapALA pravAsa kheDyA. ema karatAM eka vakhata eka AdivAsI kheDUtanA batAvyA pramANe gIca jhADImAMthI caDatAM caDatAM teo macca-piccha AvI pahoMcyA. e jotAM ja teo AzcaryamAM garakAva thaI gayA. potAnI A zodha vize emaNe pustaka lakhyuM che : "The Lost of the Incas.'* mathya-piccha zabda ahIMnA AdivAsI InDiyana lokonI "kyuecUA' nAmanI bhASAmAMthI Avyo che. teno artha thAya che "jUnuM zikhara'. maccapicchamAM cAre bAju sArI hAlatamAM sacavAyelA bhagnAvazeSo che. enA uparathI AkhI nagararacanAno khayAla Ave che. ahIM khodakAma karatAM maLI AvelAM cInI mATI ane dhAtunAM vAsaNo, hAthavaNATanAM kapaDAM, zilpAkRtio ane sthApatyanA namUnAo uparathI ItihAsakAro ema mAne che ke I.sa. 1420nI AsapAsa A nAnakaDuM nagara sthapAyuM hovuM joIe. "InkA' vaMzanA rAjA pAcAkutake dharatIkaMpa pachI jyAre kusko nagara pharIthI vasAvyuM tyAre enDijhanI parvatamALAmAM bIjAM keTalAMka nagaro paNa vasAvyA hatAM. e arasAmAM eNe A macya-pichu nagara vasAvyuM haze. AvI dUranI UMcI ane durgama TekarInI Toca upara mathya- piccha vasAvavAnuM kAraNa zuM ? ItihAsakAro mAne che ke InkA vaMzanI A eka gupta nagarI hatI. A nagarInI sthApanA dhArmika hetuthI karavAmAM AvI hatI. ahIM * A zodhanI smRtimAM perunI sarakAre ponaeN rUInAjhathI macca-picchanA rastAne "DaoN. biMgahAma mArga' evuM nAma ApyuM che. A rastAnA udghATana vakhate DaoN. biMgahAma pote perunA nimaMtraNathI hAjara rahyA hatA. 298 : pravAsa-darzana

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dhArmika kriyAkAMDo thatA. e kriyAkAMDo sAmAnya rIte bAla-brahmacArI hoya evI strIo ja karatI. e strIo sUryakuMvarI (Virgins of the Sun) tarIke oLakhAtI. samagra rAjyamAMthI zarIre sudaDha ane atyaMta buddhizALI hoya evI nAnI nAnI bALAo pasaMda thatI. teone temanA kuTuMbathI dUra ahIM kAyamane mATe lAvavAmAM AvatI. ahIM temanA rahevA tathA khAvApIvAnI tamAma vyavasthA rahetI. tevI bALAo potAnuM samagra jIvana brahmacAriNI tarIke ahIM dhArmika kriyAkAMDomAM vitAvatI. macca- picchanA khodakAmamAM maLelA mAnava avazeSomAMthI 75 TakA vadhu avazeSo strIonA che e paNa A vAtanI sAkSI pUre che. macca-picchamAM jANe bAre mAsa vasaMtaRtu hoya evuM ramaNIya kudaratI AlAdaka havAmAna che. InkA lokoe potAnA pavitra nagara mATe karelI A sthaLanI pasaMdagI badhI ja dRSTie ucita hatI. mamyu- picchamAM eka nagaranI AvazyakatA pramANe vividha prakAranI racanAo jovA maLe che. emAM aDhIso jeTalAM paththaranAM gharo che. temAM keTaleka ThekANe kudaratI jharaNAmAMthI paDatAM pANIne pIvA mATe ekatra karI levA nIce kuMDa jevI racanA karavAmAM AvI che. DuMgaranI dhAra upara pagathiyAM jevAM khetaro (Terrace Farms) che. macu- picchamAM eka jagyAethI bIjI jagyAe javA mATe Thera Thera ghaDelA paththaranA rastAo ke pagathiyAM che. gunegArone rAkhavA mATenI jela ane phAMsI ApavA mATenI jagyA paNa che. kabrastAna paNa che ane cokiyAtonI cokI paNa che. A badhI racanAmAM A parvatano ja majabUta grenAITa paththara vaparAyo che. macu-picchamAM barAbara madhya bhAgamAM sUryamaMdiranuM khaMDiyera che. enA paththaronI dIvAlonI jADAI tathA UMcAI tathA emAM staMbha ane mobha tarIke vAparavAmAM AvelA paththaro parathI kevuM benamUna sthApatya InkA lokonuM haze tenI pratIti thAya che. InkA loko AvA jabaradasta moTA paththaro khaseDavA, caDhAvavA, goThavavA ItyAdi kAryo mATe zarIre bahu sazakta ane bAMdhakAmanI kalAmAM nipuNa haze enI pratIti e karAve che. A sUryamaMdiramAM vacce nIce moTA laMbacorasa paththaro goThavavAmAM AvyA che, jenA upara pUjAnI sAmagrI ane bhoga dharAvavAmAM AvatAM haze. dIvAlomAM saMkhyAbaMdha gokhalAo che, jemAM teo devadevIonI mUrtio rAkhatA haze. eka bAjunI dIvAlamAM traNa moTI khullI bArIo che. e zA mATe rAkhavAmAM magR-pichu 4 299

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AvI haze te vize ItihAsakAro vividha anumAno kare che. A AkhA vasavATano pUro ItihAsa ApaNane maLato nathI. paNa jema jema saMzodhana thatAM jAya che tema tema InkA saMskRtinAM vividha pAsAMo upara vadhu prakAza paDato jAya che. InkA loko ApaNI jema sUrya ane caMdranI pUjA karanArA hatA. teonuM kelenDara ApaNuM hoya che tema cAMdrAyaNa hatuM. caMdranI kalAnI vadhaghaTa pramANe teo bAra mahinAnI gaNatarI gaNatA. vaLI teo sUryanI paNa pUjA karatA ane sUryanA udayAstanA AdhAre samaya nakkI karavA mATe sUryaghaTikA- (The Sun Dial - jene mATe InkA zabda che - IntihuvAtAnA)nI racanA khullAmAM karatA. matsya-picchamAM paNa AvI sUryaghaTikA che. InkA loko graho, nakSatro, sUryodaya, sUryAsta, grahaNa vagerenI gaNatarImAM kuzaLa hatA. sUrya ane caMdranI gatine AdhAre teo keTalAka divasane parva tarIke UjavatA. evA parvane IntirAyamI' parva tarIke teo oLakhAvatA. macca-picchamAM parvatanA paththaramAMthI yojanApUrvaka korI kADhavAmAM AvelI eka vizALa sapATa jagyAmAM vacce staMbha jevI eka AkRti jovA maLe che. sadbhAgye speniyArDa lokoe ke enA dharmaguruoe A AkRti toDI nAkhI nathI. A zAnI AkRti che tenA mATe saMzodhakoe prAraMbhamAM judAM judAM anumAna karelAM. paraMtu have e nizcita thayuM che ke A staMbha te sUryaghaTikA che. enA cAreya khUNA barAbara kaMpAsa pramANe cAre dizA darzAve che. InkA lokonuM gaNita keTaluM cokasAIvALuM hatuM te emanI A sUryaghaTikA uparathI paNa samajAya che. eka sthaLe eka vizALa khaDakamAM moTA pleTaphorma jevI jagyA kotarI kADhavAmAM AvI che. keTalAMka ema mAne che ke daphanAvatAM pahelAM zabanA aMtima dhArmika saMskAra ane vidhi mATe A racanA karavAmAM AvI haze. bIje eka sthaLe rAjakuTuMbanA sabhyo mATenuM alaga kabrastAna che. - InkA saMskRtinA avazeSarUpe mamyu-picchamAMthI ane enDijhanI parvatamALAmAM bIjAM keTalAMka sthaLoethI keTalAMka "mamI" maLI AvyAM che. IjiptanAM "mamI" karatAM A mamI judAM che. InkA loko punarjanmamAM mAnatA. teo ema mAnatA ke mANasa mRtyu pAme che tyAre bIjo janma le che eTale ke bALaka garbhamAM hoya tevI sthiti mANasanI pharIthI thAya che. eTalA mATe zabanA hAthapagane ghUMTaNa ane koNIthI vALIne teo peTa ane chAtIne aDoaDa evI rIte goThavatA ke jevI rIte garbhamAM bALakanI sthiti hoya. AvI rIte 300 pravAsa-darzana

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goThavyA pachI teo zabamAM jAtajAtanI auSadhio bharatA ane tene vilepana karatA. tyAra pachI mATInA koI moTA mATalAmAM ke koThInI aMdara tene mUkIne baMdha karI detA. InkA loko zabane saikAo sudhI sAcavavAnI auSadhionA jANakAra hatA te uparathI paNa e prajAnI buddhizaktino khayAla Ave che. macca-picchanA avazeSo joI basamAM nIce UtarI ame relave-sTezana upara sAMje pAMca vAge AvI pahoMcyAM. ATha vAge ame kusko pahoMcavAnA hatAM. paraMtu yuropa, uttara amerikA ke jApAna jevI A koI nirdhArita relave nahotI. jUnA DabbA ane jUnA enjinavALI A Trena eka ja pATA upara jAya ane Ave. samayanuM custa pAlana paNa nahi. ame TrenamAM beThAM pachI lagabhaga be kalAke te UpaDI. badhAM khUba kaMTALI gayAM hatAM. Trena UpaDI tyAre aMdhAruM thaI gayuM hatuM. topaNa sUvAnA samaya pahelAM hoTela upara pahoMcI javAze evI amane AzA hatI. paraMtu maMda gatie cAlatI amArI Trena traNeka sTezana vaTAvyA pachI eka sTezana pAse khAssI vAra UbhI rahI. ApaNI "bApunI gADInI yAda apAve evI A gADI hatI. lagabhaga kalAka pachI to amane khabara paDI ke TrenanuM enjina bagaDI gayuM che, eTale bIjuM enjina Ave tyAM sudhI Trena have jaze nahi. badhAM bhUkhyAM thaI gayAM hatAM. videzamAM badhe zAkAhArI khorAka kadAca na maLe e mATe sAthe haMmezAM thoDuMka khAvAnuM rAkhavAnI Teva ahIM amane kAma lAgI. moDuM thatuM jatuM hatuM. rAtanA bAra vAgI gayA hatA. bahAra aMdhAruM hatuM. TrenamAM AchA ajavALAmAM pravAsIonI vAtacItanA avAjo zamatA jatA hatA. keTalAMka potAnI beThakamAM jhokAM khAvA lAgyAM hatAM. kukothI paroDhiye amAre limA mATe vimAna pakaDavAnuM hatuM. te pakaDAze ke nahi tenI amane have ciMtA thavA lAgI hatI. rAtanA be vAge bIjuM enjina AvI pahoMcyuM. Trena cAlI. pravAsIomAM cetanano saMcAra thayo. savAre cAra vAge ame kuko pahoMcyAM tyAre amane jANavA maLyuM ke amane sTezane levA AvanArI TUrisTa kaMpanInI basa be kalAka rAha joI kaMTALIne pAchI cAlI gaI hatI. ame TeksI karIne hoTela para pahoMcyAM. tarata cA pIne, sAmAna laIne ame e ja TeksImAM eraporTa pahoMcI gayAM. AkhI rAtano amane ujAgaro thayo hato, paNa vimAna cUkyAM nahotAM eno AnaMda hato. vaLI, mammu-pichunAM darzananA AnaMde amArI yAtrAne sArthaka banAvI hatI. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) mamyu-pirA 301

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40 sAo pAulo ane sujhAno (brAjhila) rio-Di-jAnerothI brAjhilanA pATanagara brAjhiliyA zaheramAM pharIne sAo pAulo (Sao- Poulo - eno uccAra tyAMnA keTalAka loko "sAma pAvalo' evo paNa kare che. seMTa polanA nAma uparathI brAjhilanA A zaheranuM nAma paDyuM che.) ame javAnAM hatAM. sAo pAulo lagabhaga 50 lAkhanI vasati dharAvatuM brAjhilanuM moTAmAM moTuM vepArI mathaka che. sAo pAulo mATenI phalAITa nakkI karavA mATe tathA tyAM hoTelamAM rijharvezana karAvavA mATe huM mArAM patnI sAthe rionI pAna-amerikana kaMpanInI oNphisamAM jaI Avyo. ame rojanA lagabhaga cAlIsa DaoNlaranA daranI madhyama kakSAnI eka hoTelamAM rijharvezana karAvyuM. sAMje ame amArI hoTela para pAchA pharyA tyAre risepzanisTe amane saMdezo Apyo ke sAo pAulothI koI misTara kasToDiyono TUMkakola hato ane teo rAtre nava vAgye pharIthI phona karaze. A kasToDiyo koNa haze ? huM vicAra karavA lAgyo. paraMtu e nAmanA koI bhAIne huM oLakhato houM tevuM jaNAyuM nahIM. cheka brAjhilamAM sAo pAulomAM mAruM koI oLakhItuM hoya tevuM kyAreya meM jANyuM ke sAMbhaLyuM nahotuM. eTale manamAM vahema paDyo ke risepzanisTe kadAca bhUlamAM koIkano saMdezo mane ApI dIdho lAge che. je haze te; rAtre nava vAge pharIthI phona Avaze tyAre A vAtanI spaSTatA thaze. 302 4 pravAsa-darzana

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- rAtre barAbaranava vAgye kasToDiyono phona Avyo. emaNe kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, huM kasToDiyo boluM chuM. tame mane oLakhatA nathI. huM tamane oLakhato nathI. paraMtu jApAnathI tamArA mitra yoziheru amATAno mArA upara TelekSa dvArA saMdezo Avyo che ke tame ane tamArAM patnI jo kadAca sAo pAulo AvavAnAM ho to te mATe mAre tamArI badhI vyavasthA karavI. to mAre e jANavuM che ke tame sAo pAulo AvavAnAM ho to kyAre ?' A sAMbhaLatAM ja amane harSa thayo. muMbaIthI nIkaLatAM pahelAM meM mArA e jApAnI mitrane patramAM jaNAvyuM hatuM ke huM mArAM patnI sAthe rio-DIjAnero javAno chuM. meM tArIkho paNa jaNAvI hatI, paraMtu yozitaru amATAno koI javAba nahoto. jo ke javAbanI koI apekSA paNa nahotI, kema ke kyAreka kyAreka ame varSamAM eka-be vakhata ekabIjAne aniyamitapaNe khuzakhabaranA patra ke grITiMga-kArDa lakhIe chIe, eTale yoziteru amATA amArA mATe cheka sAo pAulomAM vyavasthA karAvaze evI kalpanA to kyAMthI hoya ? AthI kasToDiyono phona AvatAM ame sukhada Azcarya anubhavyuM. meM kasToDiyone amArA kAryakramanI vAta karI. haoNTelanI vyavasthA pote karaze ema emaNe kahyuM. eno artha e thayo ke amAre mahemAna tarIke javAnuM che. videzamAM koI sthaLathI mAhitagAra na hoIe, pahelI vAra jatAM hoIe ane temAM paNa bhASAno ane videzI calaNanI karakasarano prazna hoya tyAre AvuM nimaMtraNa AvakAradAyaka thaI paDe che. kasToDiyo sAthe phona para vAta pUrI thatAM meM pAna-amerikanane phona karyo, ane ame sAo pAulonI hoTelanuM rijharvezana 2da karAvyuM. niyata divase sAMje ame sAo pAulo pahoMcyAM. eNrapaoNrTa upara kasToDiyA ane bIjA keTalAka jApAnIo amane levA AvyA hatA. kasToDiyAne jotAM ja amane thayuM ke teo koI bhAratIya jevA dekhAya che. meM temane kahyuM, "tame bhAratIya ho evA lAgo cho, sAcI vAta ?' hA, taddana sAcI vAta. huM bhAratIya chuM. govAno vatanI chuM.' kasToDiyoe sAthe AvelA jApAnIono paricaya karAvatAM kahyuM, "A mi. sasAkI; tamane kadAca khabara haze ke yozihera amATAe hamaNAM brAjhilamAM miTuToyo kaMpanInuM navuM kArakhAnuM zarU karyuM che. enA menejara tarIke sasAkI jApAnathI sahakuTuMba AvyA che. A zrImatI sasAkI ane A emano dIkaro... ane A mi. kAnAtAnI, AsisTaMTa meneja2.' eraporTanI badhI vidhi patAvI ame kAramAM beThAM. amArI rahevAnI sAo pAulo ane sujhAno 49 303

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vyavasthA sAo pAulonI moMghAmAM moMghI hoTela hilTanamAM karavAmAM AvI hatI. ame tyAM pahoMcyAM. rojanA savAso DaoNlaranA daranI A hoTela hatI. SaTkoNa AkAre bAMdhelI ane pratyeka rUmamAM eka AkhA kAcanI dIvAlavALI A uttuMga hoTelanA soLamA mALe rUmamAM beThAM beThAM AkhuM sAo pAulo dekhAtuM hatuM. navAM baMdhAyelAM aDoaDa bahumALI makAnone lIdhe eno gIca vistAra vadhu gIca lAgato hato. dUra dUra eka UMcA makAnanI Toce ilekTronika lAla nIona lAiTa vaDe samaya tathA TemparecaranA moTA AMkaDA dekhAtA hatA. hoTelamAM pahoMcatAM ja badhAMne mATe kaoNphI maMgAvAI. daramiyAna kasToDiyAe kahyuM ke amAruM sAMjanuM jamavAnuM emaNe potAnA ghare rAkhyuM che. emaNe te mATe potAne ghare phona karI amArA AgamananA samAcAra ApI dIdhA. kaoNphI pItAM pItAM meM kahyuM, 'mi. kasToDiyA, riothI tamArI sAthe phona para vAta karI tyAre je rIte tame iMgliza bhASA uccAratA hatA te parathI ja mane vahema paDyo hato ke tame brAjhiliyana nathI. tame bhAratIya cho ane govAnA vatanI cho e jANI mane kharekhara khUba AnaMda thayo. ATale dUra koI bhAratIya sajjana maLe e paNa amArA jevA pravAsIone mATe bahu gamI jAya evI vAta che." "mane paNa ghaNAM varSe tamArA jevA eka bhAratIya daMpatIne maLIne bahu AnaMda thayo. jANe atyAre huM bhAratamAM Avyo houM eTalo harSa thAya che... paNa DaoN. zAha, eraporTa upara tamane joyA ane tamAro avAja sAMbhaLyo tyArathI mane ema lAgyA kare che ke huM bhAratamAM tamane kyAMka maLyo chuM. mane bhArata choDyAne paccIsathI vadhu varSa thayAM eTale kazuM yAda AvatuM nathI." "huM muMbaImAM rahuM chuM ane muMbaI yunivarsiTImAM gujarAtI viSaya bhaNAvuM chuM. traNeka vakhata govA pharavA mATe gayo chuM. saMbhava che ke kadAca tyAM koI sthaLe ApaNe maLyA hoIe.." brAjhila AvatAM pahelAM huM muMbaImAM thoDo vakhata rahyo hato. tamane govAmAM athavA muMbaImAM kadAca maLyo hoIza, paNa kyAM ane kyAre te khabara nathI. paraMtu tamAro avAja mane bahu suparicita lAge che.' kasToDiyAe kahyuM. "muMbaI yunivarsiTImAM joDAtAM pahelAM seMTa jheviyarsa kaoNlejamAM meM ghaNAM varSa adhyApaka tarIke kAma karyuM hatuM.' kahyuM. - "basa, to tyAM ja tamane maLyo hoIza. tame ena.sI.sI mAM oNphisara hatA ?' hA, ghaNAM varSa. huM chelle mejara tarIke nivRtta thayo." 304 * pravAsa-darzana

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"basa, to huM tamAro kaeNDeTa chuM. eka varSa jheviyarsamAM bhaNyo hato ane ena.sI.sI.mAM keDeTa hato. huM kaoNlejanI hosTelamAM raheto hato. haoNsTelanI bAjunA cogAnamAM ApaNI pareDa thatI. 1951-paranI A vAta che.' ekabIjAnA paricita chIe e jANatAM ja ame paraspara vadhu AtmIyatA anubhavI. meM kahyuM, "paccIsathI vadhu varSa thaI gayAM e vAtane. ApaNe sAopAulomAM A rIte pharI maLIzuM evI tyAre kalpanA paNa nahIM. kevuM sukhada Azcarya ! paNa tame govA choDI ATale dUra AvavAnuM kema pasaMda karyuM ?' kasToDiyoe kahyuM, "tyAre govA porTugIjhonuM rAjya hatuM ane brAjhilamAM paNa porTugIjhonuM rAjya. brAjhilanI keTalIya kaMpanIo, bhaNelA mANasonI kheMca paDe eTale, govAnA bhaNelA ane porTugIjha bhASA jANatA yuvAnone sArI nokarInI lAlaca ApIne potAnA kharce laI AvatI. e rIte huM paNa ahIM Avyo. AvyA pachI thoDAMka varSamAM ThIka ThIka paisA bacAvI bhArata pAchAM pharavAnuM vicArato hato tyAM to eka brAjhiliyana gorI yuvatI sAthe premasaMbaMdha thayo. lagna karyA. bALako thayAM eTale brAjhilano nAgarika thaI gayo. govA pAchA pharavAne badale mA ane bahenane brAjhila bolAvI lIdhAM ane ahIM kAyamano vasavATa karyo. ahIM brAjhilamAM govA karatAM ame vadhAre sukhI chIe. ahIM rahevAne sAruM ghara che, sArI kamANI che, gADI che. ahIM kALA-gorAno bhedabhAva nathI.. topaNa, alabatta, bhArata eTale bhArata. mane bhArata vAraMvAra yAda Ave che. ekabe vakhata sagAMone maLavA jaI Avyo chuM.' "tame yoziheru amATAne kevI rIte oLakho ?' meM pUchyuM. huM emanI kaMpanImAM DAyarekTara tarIke kAma karuM chuM. yozitaru sAo pAulo AvelA tyAre mAre emane eka sthaLe ajANatAM maLavAnuM thayeluM. mArI sAthenI vAtacItathI teo prasanna ane prabhAvita thayelA ane emaNe brAjhilamAM AvIne vaselA jApAnIone rojI maLI rahe e mATe nAnA pAyA upara potAno udyoga zarU karavAnI icchA darzAvI; te pramANe nakkI thayuM ane emanI kaMpanImAM DAyarekTara tarIke joDAI javAnI emaNe mane ophara karI. meM e oNphara svIkArI lIdhI. tyArathI huM emanI kaMpanImAM kAma karuM chuM.' kaoNphI pIne ame kasToDiyAne ghare gayAM. emaNe emanI brAjhiliyana patnIno paricaya karAvyo. mArAM patnIe keTalIka bhAratIya vastuonI temane bheTa ApI. kalAkeka vAto karI ame jamavA beThAM. kasToDiyAnI patnIe dALa-bhAta, pUrI, zAka vagere bhAratIya vAnagIo banAvI hatI. eNe e sAo pAulo ane sujhAno 1 30pa

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badhI bhAratIya vAnagIo banAvatAM zIkhI lIdhuM che ane teo gharamAM bhAratIya rasoI jame che, e jANIne ame rAjI thayAM. jamIne bhArata ane brAjhila vize ame ghaNI vAto karI. bIje divase sAo pAulothI 60 kilomITara dUra sujhAno nAmanA gAmamAM AveluM miTuToyo kaMpanInuM navuM zarU thayeluM kArakhAnuM jovA javAno kAryakrama kasToDiyAe amAre mATe ghaDI kADhyo. rAtre kasToDiyo amane hoTela para mUkI gayA. bIje divase savAre teo amane levA mATe amArI hoTelamAM AvI pahoMcyA. ame nIce UtaryA. gADI jarAka cheTe pArka karelI hatI eTale ame phUTapAtha upara cAlavA lAgyAM. rastAmAM chApAM ane sAmayikono eka sTola Avyo. emAM aMgrejI bhASAmAM eka dainika dekhAtAM te levA mATe huM Ubho rahyo. kasToDiyo AgaLa cAlatA hatA. chApAnA paisA ApavA meM koTanA khissAmAMthI pAkITa kADhyuM. chApAvALAe chApuM to ApyuM, paraMtu te mArA upara ekadama ciDhAyo. pAkITa sAme AMgaLI karIne speniza bhASAmAM jorazorathI te kazuMka babaDavA lAgyo. paisA ApavAmAM bhUlacUka thaI che ema mane lAgyuM. evAmAM kasToDiyo pAchA AvI pahoMcyA. chApAvALAnI vAta sAMbhaLI teo hasyA ane mane kahyuM, 'tamArI bedarakArI mATe te ciDhAya che. ahIM sAo pAulomAM khissAkAtaruo ghaNA che ane AvI moTI hoTela pAse ajANyA pravAsIone lUMTI levA AMTA mAratA hoya che. keTalAka to hAthamAMthI pAkITa jhUMTavIne nAsI jAya che. tamAre thoDAka chUTA paisA bahAra rAkhavA joIe, jethI rastAmAM kyAMya pAkITa kADhavuM ja na paDe. rastAmAM tamArA hAthamAM jo pAkITa dekhAya ane khissAkAtarunI najare paDyuM to te tamAro pIcho nahi choDe." rastAmAM cAlatAM kasToDiyoe mane keTalAka zaMkAspada dekhAtA muphalisa mANaso batAvyA. eka vakhata ApaNuM mana vahemI banI jAya pachI hoya tenA karatAM paNa vadhu mANaso ApaNane kharAba dekhAya. sAo pAulomAM A je sUcanA maLI te amAre mATe bahu kAmanI hatI, kAraNa ke videzamAM paisA gumAI jAya to acAnaka takalIpha UbI thAya. kasToDiyo sAthe ame gADImAM beThAM. amArI gADI sAo pAulonA eka pachI eka rastA vaTAvatI cAlavA lAgI. kasToDiyo ane te badhA vistAronI mAhitI ApatA gayA. sAo pAulono sahuthI vadhu zrImaMta vistAra kayo che te paNa amane batAvyo ane nirdhana loko rahe che te slamsa vistAra paNa batAvyo. 306 pravAsa-darzana

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amArI gADIe krame krame parAMno vistAra choDI moTo dhorI rasto pakaDyo. have rastAnI baMne bAju moTAM moTAM khetaro ane chUTAMchavAyAM jhUMpaDAM dekhAvA lAgyAM. brAjhila pAse pradeza ghaNo moTo che, paraMtu enI ghaNIkharI vasati cArapAMca moTAM zaheromAM kendrita thayelI che. e zaheromAM ApaNane prajAnI samRddhi dekhAya che, paraMtu brAjhilanA grAma-vistAro atyaMta pachAta che. A vistAromAM kALA habasI lokonuM pramANa amane vizeSa jovA maLyuM. melAM phATelAM kapaDAM paherelAM garIba strI-puruSo mAthe sAmAna UMcakIne raste cAlatAM jatAM dekhAtAM hatAM. rastAmAM amane bIjI paNa eka navAI jovA maLI. A vistAramAM cAre bAju saMtarAMnAM ghaNAM vRkSo hatAM. e vRkSonI nIce puSkaLa saMtarAM paDelAM dekhAyAM. kasToDiyoe kahyuM, "brAjhilamAM dara varSe hajAro Tana saMtarAM ema ne ema jhADa nIce saDI jAya che, kAraNa ke saMtarAMno pAka ghaNo badho che ane bhAva eTalo nIco rahe che ke bahu dUrathI saMtarAM lAvavAnuM saMtarAMnA vepArIone posAtuM nathI. eTale dUranA pradezomAM saMtarAMno pAka badho eLe jAya che. tyAM eTalI mAnavavasatI paNa nathI ke teno maphata upayoga karI zake." cAlIseka kilomITara pachI rasto nAno ane kharabacaDo banI gayo. brAjhilamAM aMgata mAlikInI gADIono vyavahAra jeTalo zaheromAM che teTalo hAI-ve upara nathI. eTale moTA hAI-ve banAvavAnuM kAma dhIre dhIre cAle che. ame sujhAno nAmanA eka gAmamAM AvI pahoMcyAM, ane tyAM AvelA miTuToyo kaMpanInA kArakhAnAmAM dAkhala thayAM. jApAnanI A jANItI kaMpanIe potAnuM kArakhAnuM sukAnomAM paNa nAkhyuM che. kArakhAnAmAM pravezatAM enA jApAnI maeNnejara sasAkIe amAruM svAgata karyuM. jApAnanI ocA (lIlI raMganI cA) amane ahIM pIvA maLI. sasAkIe amane kArakhAnAmAM pheravyAM. brAjhilamAM gorAM ane kALAM brAjhiliyana strI-puruSo jovA maLe e to svAbhAvika che, paraMtu A kArakhAnAmAM brAjhiliyana karatAM vadhu saMkhyAmAM jApAnI majUro amane jovA maLyA. meM pUchyuM, "A badhA majUro jApAnathI AvyA che ?' kasToDiyoe kahyuM, "nA. ahIMnA sthAnika che. tamane navAI lAgaze ke AmAMnA ghaNA jApAnI majUrone jApAnI bhASA nathI AvaDatI. teo porTugIjha bhASA bole che. brAjhilamAM cAraso varSathI jApAnI lokono vasavATa che. jUnA samayamAM vahANo dvArA jApAnathI sthaLAMtara karatAM karatAM teo ahIM AvIne vasyA che. lAMbA vasavATane kAraNe temanI cAmaDI paNa have gherI banI gaI che. ahIM brAjhilamAM hajAro jApAnIo ATha-dasa peDhIthI vasyA che ane ahIMnA sAo pAulo ane sujhAno 307

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nAgarika banI gayA che." jApAnIo vizenI A vAta jANI amane Azcarya thayuM. vaLI amane jANavA maLyuM ke brAjhilanA moTA bhAganA jApAnIo garIba ane madhyama varganA che ane khetI athavA majUrI karI potAnuM gujarAna calAve che. brAjhilanI prajA kevI bhAtIgaLa che te amane A kArakhAnAmAM jovA maLyuM. ahIM kALI, gorI temaja kALA ane gorAnI varNasaMkara prajA che tathA yuropiyana ane jApAnIonI varNasaMkara prajA paNa che. sujhAnonuM kArakhAnuM joI ame pAchAM pharyA. kasToDiyoe evA rastethI gADI levaDAvI ke jethI jApAnIonI vasativALAM gAmo ane amane jovA maLe. eka prajA jyAre peTa mATe bhame che tyAre deza, bhASA, dharma, varNa, saMskAra vagerenA bheda ane mamattva kevI jhaDapathI bhulAya che ane bhUMsAya che tenI pratIti A garIba ane sAdhAraNa sthitivALA jApAnIone jotAM thaI. sAMja paDavA AvI hatI. ame have sAo pAulo tarapha pAchA pharyA. amArI gADI sAo pAulonA bharacaka vistAramAM dAkhala thaI. anukrame te amArI hilTana hoTela tarapha AvI pahoMcI. hoTela pAse gADIonI giradI hatI. rastAnI baMne bAju gADIo pArka karelI hatI. keTalIka gADIomAM bhabhakadAra vastromAM sajja thayelI yuvatIo beThI hatI. keTalIka yuvatIo gADInI bahAra UbhI hatI. keTalIka yuvatIo koIkanI rAha jotI hoya tema sigareTa phUMkatI hatI. keTalIka cAra-pAMcanA ToLAmAM, to keTalIka ekaladokala UbhI hatI. meM kasToDiyone kahyuM, "Aje hoTelamAM mahilAonI koI moTI pArTI ke pogrAma lAge che. ghaNI gADIo AvI che.' kasToDiyoe kahyuM, "tame sAo pAulo pahelI vAra Avo cho eTale tamane ema lAge. potAnI gADI laIne AvelI A badhI zrImaMta yuvatIo sAme barAbara najara karazo to jaNAze ke e sArI cAlanI yuvatIo nathI. e badhI gharAkanI zodhamAM ahIM UbhelI che. emAMnI ghaNI to navI navI moMghI phezananA potAnA zokhane poSavA Avo dhaMdho kare che. hilTana jevI hoTelamAMthI emane eTalo moMgho bhAva ApavAvALA gharAko maLI rahe che. hilTanavALAe vAraMvAra polIsamAM phariyAda karI che, paraMtu A dUSaNa thoDoka vakhata aTake che ane pharI pAchuM cAlu thaI jAya che. duniyAmAM badhAM moTAM zaheromAM moTI hoTelamAM lAgeluM A dUSaNa divase divase vadhatuM jAya che." kasToDiyoe ApelA A vAstavika citArathI ghaDIbhara amAruM mana subdha rahyuM. 308 eka pravAsa-darzana

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hoTela pAse savAre peTa mATe rakhaDatA garIba khissAkAtaru puruSo ane sAMje zokha khAtara bhaTakatI zrImaMta bajAru strIo joIne ame viSAdayukta khinnatA ane glAni anubhavI. peTa ane paisA mANasanI pAse nIti ane cAritryanI rekhA kevI rIte oLaMgAve che teno vicAra karatAM karatAM saMta polanA nAma parathI jenuM nAma paDyuM che e sAo pAulo zaheranI hoTela hilTanamAM ame dAkhala thayAM. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) sAo pAulo ane sujhAno ka 309

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41 viSAda ane ullAsa (ArjenTinA - da. amerikA) ArjenTinAnA pATanagara bonojha Airisa (Buenos Aires -no tyAMnA loko A pramANe uccAra kare che) mAM siTI hoTelamAM huM ane mArAM patnI UtaryAM hatAM. tyAMthI cilInA pATanagara sAnnatiyAgo thaIne perunA pATanagara limA ame javAnAM hatAM. eNro peru kaMpanInI phalAITa ame lIdhI hatI. amAruM vimAna savAre sAta vAge UpaDavAnuM hatuM. eNrapaoNrTa sudhIno rasto ThIka ThIka lAMbo hato, eTale savAre pAMca vAge amAre nIkaLavAnuM hatuM. hoTelamAM rAtanA ame amAruM bila cUkavI dIdhuM, ane risepzanisTane pUchIne eNrapaoNrTa javA mATe zI zI sagavaDa maLe che tenI tapAsa karI lIdhI. - ArjenTinAmAM lazkarI zAsanane kAraNe phugAvo ghaNo ja che. ene lIdhe tamAma vastuo moMghI thatI jAya che. tyAM keTalAka lokone majAkamAM ema kahetA sAMbhaLyA hatA ke je bhAva savAre hoya te sAMje na hoya ane je sAMje hoya te savAre na hoya - bhAvo eTalI jhaDapathI vadhI gayA hoya ! yunAiTeDa sTeTsa karatAM ArjenTinA tyAre traNa ke cAra gaNuM moMghuM lAge. eka kapa kaoNphI pIvAnA, ApaNA lagabhaga bAreka rUpiyA thAya. eNrapaoNrTa upara to kaoNphI tethI paNa moMghI maLe. eka kapa garama kaoNphI pIvAnA sattara rUpiyA cUkavatAM dhrujArI chUTe. eNrapaoNrTa pahoMcavA mATe eNra TarminalanI jo basa maLatI hoya to basamAM javAnI amArI icchA hatI, jethI dasa hajAra peso (Peso-ArjenTinAnuM nANuM tyArano dara hato eka rUpiyo barAbara 130 peso)mAM eNrapaoNrTa 310 * pravAsa-darzana

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pahoMcI javAya. paraMtu hoTelanA risepzanisTa amane kahyuM, "eTalI vahelI savAre tamane basa nahIM maLe. mITaravALI TaeNksImAM eraporTa javAnA lagabhaga ekavIsa hajAra paiso thAya. paraMtu vahelI savAre mITarathI koI TaeNksI AvatI nathI, mATe tamAre khAnagI TaeNksI sAthe uccaka nakkI karIne javAnuM raheze.' risepzanisTe kahyA pramANe e rakama pAMtrIsa hajAra peso (lagabhaga 270 rUpiyA)nI hatI ! A TaeNksIbhADuM ghaNuM vadhAre (bhArata karatAM dasa gaNuM vadhAre) kahevAya, paraMtu te sivAya bIjo koI rasto na hato. ame risepzanisTane amAre mATe TeksI nakkI karI ApavA jaNAvyuM. risepzanisTe kahyuM, "bhale, savAre samayasara tamAre mATe TeksI AvI jaze ane tamAre pAMtrIsa hajAra peso ApavAnA raheze.' amAre savAre pAMca vAge rUmamAMthI nIce UtaravAnuM hatuM. cAra vAge TeliphonanI ghaMTaDI vAgI. risepzanisTe kahyuM, 'tamAre mATe TeksI taiyAra che." "paNa amAre to pAMca vAge nIkaLavAnuM che. haju ame taiyAra paNa thayAM nathI.' meM kahyuM. hA, paNa TaeNksI vahelI AvI gaI che. tame nahi jAo to bIjA koI TaeNksI laI jaze." ema kema cAle ? ame pahelethI pAMca vAgyAnuM kaheluM che.' bhale, paNa tame bane teTalAM jaladI nIce AvI jAo." jaladI jaladI taiyAra thaI ame nIce UtaryA. amAro sAmAna TaeNksImAM mukAyo. TaeNksI-DrAivara sAruM iMgliza bolato hato. te vAtoDiyo ane bolavAmAM mITho hato. amane jhaTapaTa besADI tarata TaeNksI haMkArI. bonojha AirisamAM nyUyorkanI jema ADA ane UbhA rastAo - sTrITa evenyu - hArabaMdha Ave. eka pachI eka ema ghaNA badhA signala AvyA kare ane TaeNksI UbhI rahe. eka pachI eka ema ghaNA badhA signala vaTAvyA pachI ame saLaMga moTA raste AvyA ane eraporTa pahoMcyAM. sAmAna utArIne TaeNksIvALAne ame pAMtrIsa hajAra peso ApyA to teNe levAnI nA pADI. teNe kahyuM, "mAre pistAlIsa hajAra peso levAnA che." amane navAI lAgI. ame kahyuM, ema kema ? ame hoTelamAM pAMtrIsa hajAra pesomAM TeksI buka karAvI che.' "tuM huM kAMI na jANuM, huM to pistAlIsa hajAra peso ja laIza. e mAro dara che.' DrAivare mijAjathI kahyuM. viSAda ane ullAsa 311

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"to pachI hoTelamAM pAMtrIsa hajAra peso kema kahevAmAM AvyA ? ame barAbara tapAsa karIne A rakama risepzanisTa sAthe nakkI karelI che." paNa risepzanisTe mane koI sUcanA ApI nathI.' "cAlo ApaNe phona karIne risepzanisTa sAthe nakkI karI laIe." mane phona karavAnI phurasada nathI. tame mAro kImatI TAima bagADI rahyo cho." TeksIvALo IrAdApUrvaka ciDAyo. ghAMTA pADIne bolavA lAgyo, AsapAsa mANaso ekaThA thavA lAgyA, paNa iMgliza na jANavAne lIdhe koI vacce paDe paNa kevI rIte ? chevaTe beMtAlIsa hajAra peso ApIne amAre vAta patAvavI paDI. babaDato babaDato TaeNksIvALo cAlyo gayo. amane eka pATha zIkhavA maLyo ke AvI moTI hoTelamAM paNa risepzanisTa dvArA TaeNksI nakkI karavI hoya topaNa TaeNksImAM besatAM pahelAM, khuda TeksIvALA sAthe paNa bhAva pharIthI nakkI karI levo joIe. videzomAM paNa ajANyA musApharo pAsethI vadhu paisA paDAvavAnI vRtti TaeNksIvALAomAM lagabhaga badhe ja hoya che ane keTalIka sArI gaNAtI moTI hoTelonA risepzanisTa paNa temanI sAthe maLelA hoya che. savAranA pahoramAM ja Avo banAva banyo tethI ame manamAM jarA khinnatA anubhavI. videzanA pravAsamAM jyAre videzI nANuM ochuM hoya tyAre A vAta ApaNane vadhAre khaTake. sAmAna laIne ame eraporTamAM ero perunA kAunTara upara gayAM to amane jaNAvavAmAM AvyuM ke phlAiTa to cAra kalAka moDI che. ame kAunTara paranA karmacArIne kahyuM, "amAro hoTelano phona naMbara ane rUma naMbara tamArI pAse hatA. tamArI phlAITamAM jagyA che ke nahi, te jANavA mATe ame phona karyo, tyAra pachI amArI sITa kanpharma karAvavA tamArI oNphise traNa vakhata amane hoTelamAM phona karyo. ane phlAITa moDI thaI to tame amane jaNAvyuM kema nahi ?' saoNrI." vaLI, vahelI phlAiTanA hisAbe eNrapaoNrTanI basane badale khAnagI TaeNksImAM amAre AvavuM paDyuM. tame amane jaNAvyuM hota to amAro samaya bagaData nahi, paisA bacata ane takalIpha paDatI nahi.' "saoNrI". sorI' sivAya bIjA koI zabdo karmacArI pAse nahotA. musApharo bIjI koI eNralAinsanI phlAiTamAM cAlyA na jAya e bIke ghaNI vimAna 312 9 pravAsa-darzana

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kaMpanIo sAmethI A sevA jANIjoIne ApatI nathI. paNa bhUla amArIya hatI. amAre ja nIkaLatAM pahelAM phona karIne e vize tapAsa karavI joItI hatI. ame sAmAna sAthe laoNnjamAM AvIne sophA upara beThAM. TaeNksIvALAnA ane erakaMpanInA anubhavane lIdhe ArjenTinAnA loko mATe manamAM viSAdanI eka gherI chApa paDatI jatI hatI. chatAM manathI prayatnapUrvaka ame samAdhAna karatAM hatAM ke AvuM to duniyAmAM badhe ja bane che. ApaNA dezamAM paNa videzIone (ane khuda ApaNane potAne paNa) kaDavA anubhavo kyAM ochA thAya che ? ame beThAM hatAM eTalI vAramAM eka sajjana amArI pAsethI pasAra thayA. amArI sAme sasmita najara karI, caherA upara prasannatA darzAvI teo cAlyA gayA. koI videzI ApaNI sAme dhArIne jue to ApaNuM tarata dhyAna kheMcAya. eka-be miniTamAM ja teo potAnI patnI sAthe AvIne amArI sAme thoDe dUra UbhA rahyA, ane be hAtha joDI amane namaskAra karyA. eNrapaoNrTa upara bhAratIya pravAsIomAM ame be ja hatAM, eTale kadAca teo namaskAra karatAM haze ema ame mAnyuM. teo baMne gayAM. thoDI vAramAM bIjAM cAreka puruSo, pAMca-cha strIo ane dasa-bAra bALako sAthe teo pAchAM amArI pAse AvI pahoMcyAM. AkhuM ToLuM amArI sAme hArabaMdha UbhuM rahyuM. iMgliza to koIne AvaDe nahi ane amane speniza AvaDe nahi. eTale teo zuM kahe che te samajAtuM nahotuM. paraMtu te sajjana badhAMne be hAtha joDIne namaskAra karavA mATe sUcanA ApI rahyA hatA. badhAM khUba bhAvapUrvaka amane joI rahyAM hatAM ane eTalA ja bhAvathI namaskAra karI rahyAM hatAM. yuropiyana ke amerikana lokone be hAtha joDavAno mahAvaro nahIM; eTale pote barAbara hAtha joDyA che ke nahIM tenI khAtarI karavA teo badhAM mAMhomAMhe ekabIjAnA hAtha sAme najara karatAM hatAM. tyAra pachI e sajjana eka bALakane hAtha pakaDIne mArAM patnI pAse laI AvyA. pachI badhAM bALakone enI pAchaLa hArabaMdha UbhA rahevA mATe sUcanA ApI. mArAM patnIne IzArAthI kahyuM, "A bALakone mAthe hAtha mUko ane emanA gAle bacI bharo.' nAnAM bALakone bacI bharavI e dakSiNa amerikAmAM (ane bIjA ghaNA dezomAM) vahAla, zubhecchA ane AzIrvAdanA pratIkarUpe gaNAya che. mArAM patnIe te pramANe eka pachI eka badhAM bALakone mAthe hAtha pheravyo ane bacI bharI. teoe tenA keTalAka phoTA paNa lIdhA. viSAda ane ullAsa ala 313

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tyAra pachI e sajjane mArAM patnI pAse badhI strIone mAthe paNa hAtha pheravAvyo. teonA badhAMnA caherA upara anero ullAsa dekhAto hato. ATalo badho bhAva teo zA mATe batAve che tenuM amane kutUhala ane Azcarya thayuM. pelA sajjane amane bhAMgItUTI bhASAmAM kaMIka IzArA vaDe pUchyuM ke amAre cA-pANI levAM che ke amAre bIjI koI madadanI jarUra che ? ame nA kahI ane temano khUba AbhAra mAnyo. ajANyA lokonA A AdarasatkArathI ame anero harSa anubhavyo. prasannatAe amArA cittamAM paDelI khinnatAne kyAMya dUra dhakelI dIdhI. dUranA videzamAM eka mAThA anubhava pachI tarata Avo mITho anubhava thAya eTale paNa enuM mUlya vadhI jAya. AkhA ToLAe bhAvapUrvaka vidAya lIdhI. chelle pati-patnIe paNa amane pharI praNAma karIne vidAya lIdhI. jatAM jatAM koIka ajANyAne teone kahetAM ame sAMbhaLyAM, "inDiyana svAmI." bhAratathI kyAreka AvelA koIka sAdhu-saMnyAsI ke svAmIjI vize teo vAta karatAM lAge che ema ame mAnyuM. teo zuM kahe che te amane spaSTa na thayuM. paNa temanAM patnI mArAM patnI tarapha AMgaLI karI izArA vaDe koIkane batAvatAM hatAM ane temAM kapALamAM tilaka, gaLAmAM mALA ane sADI vize kaMIka samajAvI 'inDiyana svAmI" kahI rahyAM hatAM. anumAna karatAM amane tarata samajAyuM ke mArAM patnIe kesarI sADI ane kesarI blAujha paheryA hatAM ane gaLAmAM mALA tathA kapALamAM kaMkuno lAla moTo cAMdalo hato. vaLI mArA khabhe lAla raMgano thelo hato. e parathI samajAyuM ke teo amane ja koI inDiyana svAmI" mAnatAM lAge che. A bAju bhAratIya pravAsIo bahu ochA Ave ane temAM bhagavAM vastradhArI svAmIjI to kyAreka ja AvyA hoya. temane joyAnI smRtine AdhAre teo mArAM patnIne "inDiyana svAmI' samajIne bhAvapUrvaka vaMdana karatAM hatAM. vastuta: ame "inDiyana svAmI' nahotAM ane temanA e mATenA vaMdananA adhikArI nahotAM. paraMtu bhArata pratyeno temano asAdhAraNa bhaktibhAva joIne ame atyaMta AnaMda ane gaurava anubhavyAM. A banAve ArjenTinAnA loko vizenI amArA manamAM prathama paDelI viSAdanI chApane ghaDIkamAM bhUMsI nAkhI. amAruM citta AnaMda, utsAha ane ullAsathI UbharAI gayuM. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3) 314 pravAsa-darzana

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42 kurAsAo (dharlaeNnDa enTAIlIjha - da. amerikA) kurAsAo (Curacao - kurAsAu' paNa bolAya che) nuM nAma duniyAnI poNA bhAganI vasatie to sAMbhaLyuM paNa nahi hoya. ame paNa kurAsAonuM nAma pahelI vAra sAMbhaLyuM vesTa InDijhamAM TrinidAdanA mukhya zahera paoNrTa opha spenanI pAna-amerikana eNralAInsanI kacerImAM. venejhuelAno TrAnjhiTa visA amane na maLyo eTale amAre kurAsAo jaIne tyAMthI panAmA jatuM vimAna pakaDavuM paDe evA saMjogo acAnaka UbhA thayA hatA. "karAsAo kyAM AvyuM ?' pAna-amerikananI yuvatIne meM pUchayuM. eNe kerebiyana samudrano nakazo kADhI emAM venejhuelAnI uttare eka TapakuM batAvIne kahyuM, "A rahyuM kurAsAo. e eka nAnakaDo TApu che." tyAM vIsAnI jarUra nathI ?' "nA. jyAM visAnI jarUra na paDe evA sthaLanI phlAITa ja tame have pakaDI zako ema cho. ahIM nakazAmAM je pAMca-cha TapakAM AjubAjumAM dekhAya che e badhA Daca TApuo che. kurAsAo, arUbA, boneI2, sAlA vagere Netherland Antilles - Daca dvIpasamudra - tarIke oLakhAya che. temAM mukhya TApu kurAsAo che. tyAM visAnI jarUra nathI. tyAM kAyamI vasavATa mATe koI jAya to UlaTAMnI enI sarakAra rAjI thAya ema che. paNa evA verAna TApumAM javA taiyAra koNa thAya ?' kurAsAo H 315

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'tamArI bhalAmaNathI ame javA taiyAra thayA chIe. sAruM che ke eka divasa mATe ja javuM che. paNa tyAM Dara jevuM kaMI nathI ne ?' 'nA, jarAya nahi, vesTa InDijhanA ghaNA TApuomAM mukhya vasati kALA habasI lokonI che. teo dekhAve jarA bihAmaNA lAge, paNa bahu garIba ane bhalA hoya che. Dara jevuM kaMI nahi.' jenA vize kazI ja amane khabara nahotI evI eka ajANI dharatI u52 bIje divase, jo vimAnamAM jagyA maLI jAya to, amAre javAnuM hatuM ane tyAM koIka hoTelamAM rAta rokAvAnuM hatuM. skAyaleba tUTI paDyuM te e divasa hato - 11mI julAI 1979no. paoNrTa oNpha spenathI huM ane mArAM patnI vimAnamAM beThAM. samaya thayo eTale vimAna UpaDyuM. vimAnamAMthI kurAsAono nirjana TApu dekhAyo. TApunA cheDe eka moTI oNIla riphAInarI hatI. thoDe AgaLa nIce jaMgala jevI jagyAmAM nAnuM eNrapaoNrTa dekhAyuM. eNrapaoNrTanI AsapAsa koI moTAM makAno ke dhamadhamato vAhanavyavahAra jevuM kazuM ja nahotuM dekhAtuM, aThavADiyAmAM traNa vakhata vimAna Ave ane jAya. vimAnamAMthI UtaranAra ame thoDA pravAsIo hatA. eNrapaoNrTanuM makAna nAnuM paNa svaccha hatuM. kasTamano khAsa koI vidhi nahoto. eka kAunTara upara hoTelanuM rijharvezana karAvI zakAtuM. kAunTara uparanI gorI Daca yuvatIe kahyuM, 'ahIMthI hoTelanuM rijharvezana tamArI potAnI meLe karI zako cho.' eNe bAjumAM eka moTuM borDa batAvyuM. emAM judAM judAM khAnAMomAM kurAsAonI ATha-dasa hoTelanA raMgIna phoTA hatA. darekanI nIce eka lAla baTana hatuM. pAse hoTelanuM nAma ane enA dara lakhelA hatA. borDanI bAjumAM TeliphonanuM mAtra risIvara hatuM. te UMcakIne je hoTelanuM lAla baTana dabAvIe. te hoTelamAM sIdhI ghaMTaDI vAge ane temAM jagyA che ke nahi te risepzanisTa tarata ApaNane jaNAve. hilTana, plAjhA jevI be-traNa atizaya moMgI hoTela hatI. bAkInI madhyama kakSAnI hatI. ame cAlIsa DaoNlaravALI sArI dekhAtI hoTelamAM phonathI amAre mATe rijharvezana karAvI lIdhuM. kurAsAomAM hilTana jevI hoTela che e jANI amane navAI lAgI. Daca yuvatIe kahyuM, 'kurAsAomAM oIla riphAInarI che ane hamaNAM tenuM kAmakAja vadhavA lAgyuM che, eTale mANasonI avarajavara paNa vadhavA lAgI che. vaLI, kurAsAomAM lagabhaga bAre mAsa taDakAvALuM havAmAna rahe che. eTale uttara amerikA ane kaeNneDAnA ThaMDA pradezomAMthI ghaNAM pravAsIo taravA 316 * pravAsa-darzana

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ane taDako khAvA Ave che. pravAsIone AkarSavA rAjya taraphathI suvidhAo vadhatI jAya che. dariyAmAM thoDe Age paravALAM (Corals) che. te jovA laI javAnI sagavaDa paNa have thaI che. eTale kurAsAomAM vadhu sagavaDavALI moMghI paNa nAnI hoTelo zarU thavA lAgI che. yuvatIe amane kurAsAo vize copAniyuM ApyuM. pravAsIone maphata vaheMcavA mATe te dara mahine chapAya che. emAM ghaNI prakIrNa mAhitI, dukAno ane hoTelonI jAherakhabara sAthe ApavAmAM AvI hatI. amerikAnA ane keneDAnA pravAsIone kharIdImAM jakAta-bacatanI dRSTie zo lAbha thAya tenI savistara mAhitI temAM hatI. kurAsAomAM nANAnuM calaNa Daca gilDarsanuM che, paraMtu amerikanone vaTAvano mAra na paDe eTalA mATe amerikana DaoNlaranuM calaNa paNa adhikRta gaNavAmAM AvyuM che. amArI vAta cAlatI hatI eTalAmAM eka UMco, jADo, kALo habasI Avyo ane te yuvatI sAthe spenizamAM vAta karavA lAgyo. yuvatIe amane kahyuM, "A TaeNksIDrAIvara kahe che ke bahAra have mAtra enI ekanI ja TaeNksI rahI che. tamAre javuM hoya to te rokAya. ahIMthI zahera sAta kilomITara dUra che ane teno TharAvelo dara sAta DaoNlara che. A TaeNksI tame javA dezo to tamAre zaheramAMthI phona karI TaeNksI bolAvavI paDaze ane tenA javA-AvavAnA cauda DaoNlara tamAre ApavAnA raheze." hoTelanuM rijharvezana thaI gayuM hatuM eTale ame utAvaLa karI TaeNksImAM beThAM. TaeNksI cAlI. DuMgarALa TApu upara caDa-utara karato rasto nAno, paNa vAhanonI avarajavara vagarano, svaccha, zAMta ane hariyALIvALo hato. thoDI thoDI vAre AjubAju samudranAM je darzana thatAM te aNe TApu upara chIe tenI pratIti karAvatAM hatAM. kurAsAonA copAniyA upara huM najara pheravato hato. emAM eka pAnA upara kurAsAonI aitihAsika mAhitI ApavAmAM AvI hatI. TApunI zodha speniza lokoe karI hatI. krisTophara kolaMbase I.sa. 1492mAM amerikAnA khaMDanI zodha karyA pachI I.sa. 1499mAM pharIthI e amerikAnI zodhasaphare gayo tyAre AsapAsa nAnA nAnA TApuonI zodha mATe nIkaLelA enA sAthIdAromAMnA eka lephaTananTa Alponjho da oedAe A kurAsAo TApunI zodha karI hatI. alabatta, tyAre A TApunI kaMI kiMmata nahotI. raDyAkhaDyA keTalAka speniza lokoe A TApu paranI potAnI mAlikInI sAcavaNI mATe tyAM vasavATa karyo hato. paraMtu sattaramAM saikAmAM yuropIya prajAo vacce yuropa kurAsAo - 317

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bahAranA pradezo sara karavAnI tIvra spardhA cAlI ane yuddho paNa thayAM. te vakhate I.sa. 1934mAM ca sainikoe speniza loko pAsethI A TApu AMcakI lIdho. tyAM potAnuM saMsthAna sthApyuM ane thoDAka Daca lokone tyAM vasAvyA. I.sa. 1942mAM piTa2 subejhane eno gavarnara banAvyo. sattaramAMthI ogaNIsamAM saikA sudhI kurAsAonI mAlikI vakhatovakhata badalAtI gaI. Daca pAsethI aMgrejoe, aMgrejo pAsethI phrencoe, phrenco pAsethI aMgrejoe, aMgrejo pAsethI Daca lokoe - ema vakhatovakhata pheraphAra thatA gayA. A evo mahattvano TApu nahoto ke tene mATe khUnakAra jaMga thAya. jAya to javA de ane rahe to rahevA de evo A TApu hato. chevaTe I.sa. 1815mAM briTana ane holenDa vacce thayelA saMdhi karAra pramANe aMgrejoe ca lokone A TApu pAcho soMpI dIdho. tyArathI enI mAlikI Daca sarakAranI che. jyArathI AphrikAnA kALA habasIone gulAma tarIke amerikA laI javAno vepAra cAlu thayo tyArathI vesTa InDijhanA TApuonI kiMmata vadhI. TApu uparathI gulAma bhAgIbhAgIne keTale dUra bhAgI zake ? eTale kurAsAo paNa gulAmonA vepAranuM eka moTuM mathaka banI gayuM. AthI ja kurAsAomAM ane vesTa InDijhanA ghaNA TApuomAM gorAo karatAM habasIonI vasati vadhAre che. alabatta, gulAmonI nAbUdI pachI A TApuonuM mahattva ghaTyuM hatuM. holenDanI sarakAre I.sa. 1954mAM Daca dvIpasamUhane thoDI svAyattatA (autonomy) ApI che. ethI enI prajA lokazAhI paddhatie potAnuM rAjya calAve che. alabatta, garvanaranI nimaNUka to haju paNa holenDanI rANI ja kare che. dakSiNa amerikAnI svAtaMtrya mATenI laData daramiyAna laDatanA karNadhAra sAyamana bolivArane kurAsAoe be vAra rAjyAzraya Apyo hato. ethI dakSiNa amerikAnI prajAne kurAsAo pratye premAdaranI lAgaNI rahI che. kurAsAomAM kAyamI vasavATa karavA mATe khAsa koI baMdhana nathI. eTale doDha lAkhanI chUTIchavAI vasati dharAvatA A TApumAM duniyAnA sATha jeTalA dezonA nAgariko AvIne vasyA che. lagabhaga pAMcaso varSa jUnI A vasAhata che eTale ahIM paththaranI jUnI sarakArI ImArato, devaLo, sAInagoga, masjida vagere che. Adhunika bahumALI ImAratonI AvazyakatA haju ahIM UbhI thaI nathI. | kurAsAo lagabhaga cAlIsa kilomITara lAMbo ane pAMcathI dasa kilomITara pahoLo evo mAchalI-AkArano TApu che. A TApu upara thoDAMka gharonI 318 pravAsa-darzana

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vasativALAM evA sAMtAkrujha, lAguna, soTo vagere ATha-dasa gAmaDAM che. bIjAM chUTAMchavAyAM jhUMpaDAM che, ane kurAsAonuM mukhya nagara te TApune eka cheDe samudrakinAre ane enI aMdara vahetI khADInI baMne bAju vaseluM te vilemaTADa che. TApunuM te eka mAtra moTuM nagara hovAthI kurAsAo tarIke paNa oLakhAya che. amArI TaeNksI hoTela pAse AvI pahoMcI. tarata hoTelamAMthI eka habasI nokare AvI amAro sAmAna uThAvI lIdho. risepzana kAunTara upara eka gharaDI habasI bAI hatI. bhAMgyuMtUruM aMgrejI te bolatI hatI. rajisTaramAM amArAM nAma, saranAmuM, pAsaporTa naMbara vagere lakhAyAM. ame amArA rUmamAM pahoMcyAM. bahAra daravAje AkarSaka lAgatI A hoTela aMdarathI sAva sAdhAraNa hatI. beThA ghATanA jUnA moTA makAnane hoTelamAM pheravI nAkhavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. lAkaDAnAM pATiyAM ane patarAM vaDe nAnI nAnI daseka rUmo ADIavaLI banAvavAmAM AvI hatI. rUmo erakaMDizanDa hatI, paNa eke erakaMDizanara cAlatuM nahotuM. ghaNIkharI rUmo khAlI hatI. be rUmomAM habasI pravAsIo hatA. hoTelanA pAchaLanA bhAgamAM keTalAMka sthAnika habasI kuTuMbo rahetAM hatAM, je hoTelanA kATakhUNiyA pesejamAMthI Ava-jA karatAM hatAM. vacce khullA caoNkamAM eka bAju keTalIka habasI strIo kapaDAM dhotI hatI ane dorI para sUkavatI hatI. eka khUNAmAM cokaDImAM naLa nIce keTalIka habasaNo vAsaNa mAMjatI hatI. amane jovA mATe vArApharatI ghaNAM badhAM amArI rUma pAse AMTo mArI gayAM. hoTelanuM vAtAvaraNa jotAM ja ame DaghAI gayAM. speniza bhASA bolatAM aNe habasI gulAmonA gAmaThI vaMzajo jevAM lAgatAM e badhAMnA vAtAvaraNamAM ame thoDIka vAra to gUMgaLAmaNa anubhavI. mArAM patnIe kahyuM, "cAlIsa DaoNlaramAM AvI hoTela ? A te hoTela che ke koInuM ghara ?' vAtane haLavI banAvavA meM kahyuM, "hoTelamAM ghara jevuM vAtAvaraNa hoya e to sAruM kahevAya. evuM vAtAvaraNa karI ApavAno vadhArAno cArja ApaNI pAsethI nathI letA eTalo ApaNane phAyado che." "ahIM Dara jevuM to nahi hoya ne ?' nA. A badhAM to garIbaDAM che. emane joIne ApaNane dayA AvavI joIe." ApaNe bIjI koI hoTelamAM cAlyA jaIzuM ? kadAca bIjI hoTela paNa AvI ja haze, sivAya ke ApaNe hilTana ke kurAsAo 4 319

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plAjhAmAM jaIe. paNa te bahu dUra che ane moMghI che. gAmamAM pharavuM hoya to A hoTela ja barAbara che. ApaNane eka navo anubhava thaze. ApaNe kyAM vadhAre divasa rahevuM che ? savAre UThIne tarata phlAITa pakaDavAnI che. rUmamAM sAmAna goThavI ame beThAM. hAthamoDhuM dhovA mATe bAtharUmamAM sAbu nahoto. mArAM patnIe ghaMTaDI vagADI nokara pAse sAbu magAvyo. kapaDAM dhotI eka bAI pAsethI dhovAno bhIno sAbu lAvIne Apyo. mArAM patnIe nArAjI batAvIne e pAcho Apyo. eTalAmAM risepzanisTa bAI AvI pahoMcI. eNe tarata noka2ne nahAvAno navo sAbu ApavA sUcanA ApI. navo sAbu Avyo. bAInI sUcanAthI nokare charI vaDe enA be TukaDA karyA. emAMthI eka TukaDo amane Apyo. bIjo TukaDo pAcho laI javAmAM Avyo. eka divasanA gharAka mATe aDadho sAbu paNa emane kadAca vadhAre lAgyo haze. ame bolavA jatAM hatAM paNa mUMgAM rahyAM. hoTelanA dara ane hoTelanI karakasara jotAM amane lAgyuM ke kurAsAo moMghuM hovuM joIe. vAta sAcI hatI. atizaya phugAvAne kA2Ne vesTa InDijhanA ghaNA dezomAM bhAvo bahu UMce gayA hatA. svastha thaI ame gAmamAM pharavA nIkaLyAM. page cAlIne badhe jaI zakAya eTaluM nAnuM, vAhanonI khAsa kazI avarajavara vagaranuM, taddana svaccha, AsapAsa samudranAM bhUrAM nirmala jala ane khullA AkAzane kAraNe raLiyAmaNuM lAge evuM A suzAMta gAma hatuM. copAniyAmAM ApelA nakazA pramANe ame nAnI nAnI zerIomAM pharyAM. temAM gorA loko thoDA ane kALA loko vadhu evI mizra vasati jaNAtI hatI. amerikana pravAsIonI vadhelI avarajavarane kA2Ne koI koI loko aMgrejI thoDuM samajatA hatA. eka resTorAMmAM ame kaoNphI pIdhI. pharatAM pharatAM DhALa UtarI ame khADI pAse AvI pahoMcyAM. vizALa khullI jagyA hatI. sUrya namavA Avyo hato eTale taDako saumya banyo hato. samudra uparathI vegathI havA vahetI hatI. khADInA sAmasAmA kinAre gAma vaseluM che. amArI hoTela bAjuno bhAga otarAbAMDA tarIke ane sAmeno bhAga puMDA tarIke oLakhAya che. otarAbAMDA TekarAo para vaseluM che ane raheThANa mATenAM gharo tyAM vadhu che. puMDA sapATa medAnamAM vaseluM che ane tyAM sarakArI ane bIjI kacerIo, dukAno, resTorAM vagere vadhAre che. tyAM paththaranI ane lAla naLiyAMnAM chAparAMvALI be ke traNa mALanI ghaNI ImArato aDoaDa hArabaMdha, khADInA kinArAne samAMtara AvelI che. 320 * pravAsa-darzana

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moTI sTImara jAya eTalI UMDI ane lagabhaga baso mITara jeTalI pahoLI A khADImAM vacce tarato jhUlato lAkaDAno majabUta pula che. ame UbhAM hatAM eTalI vAramAM to jorathI horna vAgyuM ane ghaDiyALano kAMTo khase ema dhIme dhIme amArI bAjuthI pula khasavA lAgyo. jotajotAmAM to te sAmI bAjue kinArAne aDIne lAgI gayo. daramiyAna baMne kinArethI nAnI loMca cAlu thaI ane keTalAka loko emAM besIne sAme pAra javA lAgyAM. thoDI vAramAM eka moTI sTImara AvI ane pasAra thaI gaI. pula pharI pAcho joDAI gayo. kurAsAomAM riphAInarIne kAraNe sTImaronI avarajavara vadhatI gaI che. roja sarerAza trIsa vakhata A tarato pula khaseDAyA che. A pula uparathI pahelAM vAhano pasAra thavA devAmAM AvatAM, paraMtu vAhano mATe have navo pula khADI upara thoDe Aghe bAMdhavAmAM Avyo che. moTAmAM moTI sTImaro paNa nIcethI pasAra thaI zake eTalA mATe 160 phUTa jeTalo UMco A pula bAMdhavAmAM Avyo che. ATalI nAnI khADI upara A asAdhAraNa UMco pula enI sakAraNa kRtrima UMcAIne kAraNe ApaNuM dhyAna kheMcyA vagara rahe tevo nathI. kurAsAomAM vAhano ochAM che, chatAM bhaviSyanA vAhanavyavahArane lakSamAM rAkhI agAuthI taiyArI karI levAnI dRSTie A uttuMga pula bAMdhavAmAM Avyo che. khADInI aMdara taratA pula upara vIjaLInAM raMgaberaMgI balbanAM toraNo laTakAvyAM hatAM. rAtane vakhate jatI-AvatI sTImarone e dekhAya e to kharuM, paNa rAhadArIone paNa enI rozanI AkarSaka lAge evI hatI. pula oLaMgI ame sAmI bAju gayAM. khADInI eka bAju phloTiMga mArkeTa che. dasa-bAra hoDakAMmAM vepArIo zAkabhAjI ane phaLaphaLAdi vecavA beThA hatA, je rastA upara UbhA UbA mANaso kharIdI zake. ame thoDAM saMtarAM kharIdI AgaLa cAlyAM. eka bAju moTI posTa oNphisa che. amAro kAryakrama acAnaka badalAyo hato. eTale muMbaI ghare tAra karavAnA vicAre ame aMdara gayAM. paraMtu cha-sAta zabdanA videzanA tAra mATe bhAratamAM jyAre paMdareka rUpiyA thatA tyAre tenA trIsa Dolara (lagabhaga aDhIso rUpiyA) amane tyAM kahyA. kurAsAo pAse sIdhI sarvisa nathI eTale dara ghaNo vadhAre hato ane tAra pahoMcatAM paNa pAMca-cha divasa lAge ema hatuM eTale ame tArano vicAra mAMDI vALyo. (kurAsAonI tAra ane TelekSanI sIdhI sarvisa have cAlu thaI ame bajAramAM laTAra mAravA lAgyAM. ADI ane UbhI pAMca-cha nAnI galIo hatI. badhI dukAnomAM cIjavastuo paradezI hatI. sthAnika kharIdanArAM kurAsAo ja 321

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karatAM videzI sahelANIonI kharIdI upara nabhato vepAra hato. zo-kesamAM goThavelI vastuo para mAtra kutUhalatI najara nAkhatAM nAkhatAM ame pasAra thaI rahyAM hatAM. kurAsAonI mulAkAta pahelAM bIjA koI gujarAtIe lIdhI haze ke kema teno ame vicAra karatAM hatAM evAmAM eka dukAnamAMthI avAja Avyo, bolo bahena ! zuM joIe tamAre ?' gujarAtI bhASA sAMbhaLI amArA kAna camakyA. eka yuvAna bhAI dukAnamAMthI bahAra AvyA ane bolyA : "bahenanI gujarAtI sADI parathI mane thayuM ke tame gujarAtI cho, eTale tarata huM bahAra Avyo. A ajANyA TApumAM tame kyAMthI ?' ame hasatAM sAme pUchyuM : "A ajANyA TApumAM tame kyAMthI ?' ame amArI vAta karI. emaNe kahyuM ke pote kacchanA aMjAranA vatanI che. lohANA che. pAkistAna thatAM siMdhathI AvIne kacchamAM AdipuramAM vaselA eka siMdhI vepArI sAthe emane sabaMdha thayo. e vepArIe bhArata choDIne panAmAmAM dukAna karI. teo potAnA kharce emane nokarI karavA panAmA laI AvyA. tyAMthI bIjA eka siMdhI vepArI emane kurAsAo laI AvyA. bAra mahinAthI teo kurAsAomAM che. Daca ane speniza paNa bole che. vepAra sAro cAle che. vaLI temaNe kahyuM ke kurAsAomAM siMdhIonI pAMca dukAno che : "tAjamahAla', "bulacaMda', "hiMdu pelesa', "nAraNa" ane "lA gaMgA'. 'bhAratanA bhAgalA paDyA tyAra pachI ghaNA zrImaMta siMdhI vepArIo duniyAnA ghaNA judA judA dezomAM vepArArthe vasyA. emAM keTalAka kurAsAomAM AvIne rahyA che. A vAta jANIne amane atyaMta AnaMda thayo. ame koI ajANI dharatI para nathI evuM amane have lAgyuM. thoDI vAramAM e kacchI bhAInA siMdhI zeTha bahArathI AvI pahoMcyA. paricaya karAvyo. cA-pANI pIdhAM. bIjI siMdhI dukAnonI mulAkAta lIdhI. rAtre eka siMdhI vepArIne tyAM zAkAhArI bhAratIya bhojana jamyAM. amAro divasa pariNAma-ramaNIya banI gayo. rAtanA hoTela para AvI, caoNkamAM goThaveluM TI.vI. thoDI vAra joI, ame sUI gayAM. bIje divase kurAsAono TApu choDI panAmA javA vimAnamAM ame beThAM. vimAna UDyuM tyAre bArImAMthI A TApunA utsukatApUrvaka chellAM darzana karI lIdhAM, kAraNa ke kurAsAonI dharatI upara jiMdagImAM bIjI vAra para mUkavAno amAre mATe saMbhava haze ke kema te prazna hato. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) 322 + pravAsa-darzana

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43 siDanInI phaeNravaeNla-pArTI (oNsTreliyA) I.sa. 1977nA DisembaramAM oNsTreliyAnA siDanI zaheramAM pena (PEN) saMsthAnI koMgresamAM bhAratIya pratinidhi tarIke bhAga levA mATe huM gayo hato. siDanInI sukhyAta zevarona hoTelamAM badhA pratinidhione utAro ApavAmAM Avyo hato. ATha divasanI A pariSadamAM sAhityanA judA judA viSayo upara nibaMdho vaMcAyA. vaLI soviyeTa yuniyanamAM penanuM kendra sthApavuM ke nahi ? duniyAnAM judAM judAM rASTromAM kedamAM pUravAmAM AvelA lekhakone choDAvavA mATe zuM zuM karavuM ? soviyeTa yuniyanamAMthI bhAgI chUTelA lekhakone sahAya karavA zuM zuM karavuM ? koriyAnA kavi kama jI hAne kedamAM rAkhavAmAM AvyA che te mATe jApAne chapAvelI dveSabharI patrikA sAme koriyAno virodha vagere viSayo upara ghaNI garamAgarama carcAo paNa thaI. A badhI carcAomAM kyAreka AMtararASTriya rAjakAraNa paNa DokAtuM hatuM. adhivezananA chellA divase bapore aupacArika AbhAravidhi thaI gayA pachI rAtre chello kAryakrama hato phaeNravaeNla pArTIno. A kAryakrama mATe penakoMgresanA oNsTreliyana Ayojakoe jorazorathI jAherAta karI hatI. vaLI teoe garvapUrvaka kahyuM hatuM, 'koMgresanI kAryavAhImAM garamAgarama carcAothI dukheluM tamAruM mAthuM haLavuM banAvavuM hoya to phaeNravaeNla pArTImAM jarUra padhA2jo. A phaeNravaeNla pArTI badhA mATe ADakatarI rIte pharajiyAta banI hatI, kema ke te mATe pratinidhidITha vIsa oNsTreliyana DaoNlara (eka DaoNlara barAbara siDanInI phaeNravala-pArTI * 323

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dasa rUpiyA) dareka pAsethI agAuthI vasUla karI levAmAM AvyA hatA. zarAba, saMgIta ane bhojanano A kAryakrama hato. jo pahelethI tenI phI laI lavAmAM AvI na hota to kadAca A kAryakramamAM upasthita rahevAnuM bahu mana na thAta. bIjA pratinidhio sAthe vicAravinimaya karatAM lAgyuM ke mAtra aupacArikatA khAtara paNa mAre hAjarI ApavI joIe. siDanImAM je keTalAka jUnA aitihAsika vistAro haju paNa sArI rIte jALavI rAkhavAmAM AvyA che emAMno eka vistAra te ArthAIla TAvarsa che. IMglenDathI dezanikAlanI sajA pAmelA sAtaso bhArADI gunegAra kedIone sTImaramAM lAvIne aMgrejoo siDanI zahera vasAvyuM hatuM. A zaheranA vasavATano aitihAsika AraMbha AvI vicitra rIte thayo hato. zaheranI smRtirUpe e vakhatano e jUno vistAra haju paNa sArI rIte sAcavI rAkhavAmAM Avyo che. tyAM have sAhitya ane kalAnA vividha samAraMbho ane mahepilo yojAya che. chAparAMvALAM makAnomAM prAcIna vAtAvaraNa anubhavAya che. amArI A phaeNravela pArTI - vidAya mahephila ArthAIla TAvarna nAmanA A vistAranI eka suprasiddha prAcIna ImAratamAM goThavavAmAM AvI hatI. amane badhAMne kaDaka sUcanA ApavAmAM AvI hatI ke kAryakrama rAtre barAbara ATha vAge cAlu thaze ane te mATe hoTela uparanI traNa basa samayasara sADA sAta vAge UpaDI jaze, mATe koIe moDuM karavuM nahi. je moDA paDe te potAnI meLe TaeNksI karIne AvI pahoMce. videzapravAsamAM sarakAre ApeluM hUMDiyAmaNa karakasarathI vAparavuM paDatuM. eTale moDuM thAya to TaeNksInA cArapAMca DaoNlara caoNTe e bIke huM mArA rUmamAMthI nIce laoNnjamAM barAbara savA-sAte AvIne Ubho rahyo. bahAra rastA para joyuM to haju basa AvIne UbhI nahotI. laoNnjamAM koI pratinidhi dekhAtA nahotA. mane thayuM ke huM ghaNo vahelo nIce Utaryo chuM. tyAM to mane joIne risepzanisTa pUchyuM, "tame basa mATe UbhA cho ? hA.' "basa to traNeya UpaDI gaI che.' hoya nahi; haju to savAsAta vAgyA che. sADAsAte basa UpaDaze evI amane sUcanA apAI che.' "e vAta sAcI, paraMtu Aje pratinidhio sAta vAgatAmAM AvIne besI gayA hatA. vaLI keTalAka sthAnika pratinidhio paNa vagara pUchaye basamAM besI gayA hatA. ethI traNeya basa pUrI bharAI gaI hatI, eTale 324 : pravAsa-darzana

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basane moDI upADavAnuM koI kAraNa nahotuM. have je pratinidhio rahyA haze temane mATe eka basa bIjo eka phero karaze. tame beso. thoDI vAramAM ja basa Avaze." vidAya mahephila mATe ATalI badhI paDApaDI thaze evI kalpanA nahotI. eTalAmAM bIjA cAra-pAMca pratinidhio lonjamAM AvI pahoMcyA. traNe basa UpaDI gaI che e jANI saune Azcarya thayuM. have eka basa pAchI pharaze topaNa te lagabhaga poNAATha vAge UpaDaze ema lAgyuM. ame badhA Amatema AMTA mAravA lAgyA. evAmAM eka briTiza pratinidhi AvyA. teo raghavATamAM hatA. temaNe ciMtita cahere kahyuM, "basa ATalI badhI vahelI UpaDI gaI ? have mAre to TaeNksI karavI ja paDaze kAraNa ke mane to tyAM keTaluM kAma soMpAyuM che. e mATe mAre samayasara pahoMcavuM jarUrI che.' emaNe mane kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, huM TaeNksI karIne jAuM chuM. tame cAlo mArI sAthe.' pachI bIjA pratinidhione uddezIne kahyuM, "tamArAmAMthI bIjA be paNa AvI zake che.' meksikonI be mahilA pratinidhio tarata AvavA taiyAra thaI. bahAra nIkaLI ame cAre TaeNksImAM beThAM. sarasa vAto cAlI. AyojakonI AvI vyavasthA mATe TIkA thaI. TaeNksImAM besavA maLyuM eTale AnaMdita thaI meksikana mahilAo briTiza pratinidhinI pratyeka vAte "hA jI', "hA jI' kahI sAda purAvatI rahI. ame ArthAIla TAvarsa pahoMcyAM. TaeNksImAMthI nIce UtaryA. TeksIvALAne paisA cUkavI briTiza pratinidhie cAlatAM cAlatAM kahyuM, "kSamA karajo. ApaNe TeksI je bhAgamAM (Share) karI che teno tamAre dareke doDha doDha DaoNlara ApavAno che. mane thayuM ke A to kharo vANiyo nIkaLyo. paraMtu doDha DaoNlara jeTalI rakama mATe bolavuM e anucita gaNAya. pelI be meksikana mahilAone paNa gamyuM nahi. parsa kholIne potAnA bhAganA paisA temaNe ApI dIdhA, paraMtu potAno aNagamo vyakta karavA briTiza pratinidhinI vAtamAM pachI kazo rasa lIdho nahi ane aLagI thaIne kaMIka babaDatI cAlavA lAgI. TaeNksImAMthI UtaratI vakhate meM mITara joyuM hatuM temAM cAra DaoNlara ane dasa senTa AvyA hatA. tenI jagyAe briTiza pratinidhie amArA traNa pAsethI kula sADAcAra DaoNlara lIdhA. eTale ke pote TaeNksImAM maphata AvyA ane uparathI cAlIsa senTano phAyado karyo. A emaNe IrAdApUrvaka karyuM haze ke bhUlathI thaI gayuM haze te to koNa jANe ? kAraNa ke keTalAka videzIo moDhe hisAba karavAmAM kAcA siDanInI phaeNravaeNla-pArTI nA 325

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hoya che. temAM vaLI A to kavi-lekhakanI jAta. game tema hoya, paNa temanA pratyenuM mAruM mAna UtarI gayuM. ArthAIla TAvarnanA vizALa resTorAMmAM pena-koMgresanA badhA pratinidhio goThavAI gayA hatA. doDhaso varSa jUnA e resTorAMmAM jADAM kharabacaDAM lAkaDAnAM jUnA samayanAM moTAM majabUta Tebala hatAM. besavA mATe khurazIo nahi paNa lAMbI pATalIo hatI. dAkhala thatAM ja koI prAcIna ImArata che evo bhAsa thAya. huM dAkhala thayo ke tarata pena-koMgresanA maMtrI pITara AlsaTobe bUma pADI mane bolAvyo. temaNe kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, ahIM Avo. eka sITa meM tamAre mATe rAkhI che. bIjA koIne besavA dIdhA nathI. zA mATe te jANo cho ? huM zarAba ane sigareTa nathI pIto eTalA mATe ja haze !' hasatAM hasatAM meM kahyuM, kAraNa ke pITara mArI jema zarAba ane sigareTa pItA nathI. e to kharuM ja; paraMtu khAsa eTalA mATe tamane bolAvyA ke tame briTiza, komanavelthanA sabhya cho. ahIM badhe tame naja2 karo. badhA lekhako potapotAnA rAjakIya vartuLa pramANe judA judA Tebala AsapAsa beThA che. eTale meM vicAra karyo ke ApaNe paNa briTiza komanavelthanuM juduM Tebala jamAvIe." TebalanI AsapAsa beThelA sabhyo sAme meM najara karI. temAM laMDananA pena kAryAlayanI be briTiza mahilAo hatI. eka pratinidhi hato hoMgakoMgano, eka hato nyUjhIlenDano ane eka pratinidhi lekhikA hatI tAIvAnanI. A vidAya-jalasAmAM bIjA dezomAMthI AvelA pratinidhio jeTalA hatA tethI vizeSa sthAnika oNsTreliyana lekhaka-lekhikAo ane niyaMtrita Itara mahAnubhAvo hatAM. A badhAnAM vastronuM avalokana karatAM eka vAta tarata najare caDatI. oNsTreliyAnI bahArathI AvelA pratinidhio to potAnI sAthe je be cAra joDA kapaDAM lAvyAM hoya te temaNe ATha-nava divasamAM paherI lIdhAM hoya. eTale teo badhAM paricita vastromAM hatAM. paraMtu sthAnika sabhyo ane nimaMtrito to badhAM navAM navAM vastromAM susajja hatAM. emAM paNa mahilAo to jANe phezana-pareDa hoya tema camakabhabhakavALAM vastro ane ghareNAM paherIne tathA puSkaLa meka-apa karIne AvI hatI. badhAM Tebalo upara judI judI jAtanA dArUnA moTA moTA jaga tathA soDA ane barapha mUkavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. jene je pasaMda paDe te ane jeTalo pIvo hoya teTalo dArU pI zake. badhAMe te pIvo zarU karyo hato. meM pATalI para besIne kokokolA mATe mAgaNI karI. veITare kahyuM, "kokAkolA eksTrAmAM 326 9 pravAsa-darzana

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gaNAya che. enA eka glAsa mATe tamAre eka DaoNlara judo Apavo paDaze." meM kahyuM, "zA mATe ? dArU bilakula pIvAno nathI. ene badale kokokolA mAguM chuM." thoDI rakajhaka pachI ene mArI vAta samajAI. mAre mATe kokokolA AvyuM. sADAATha vAge jAherAta thatAM badhAM potAnI pleTa laIne bhojananI vAnagIo levA mATe lAInamAM UbhAM rahyAM. A vAnagIomAMthI mane khape evI vAnagIo khAsa nahotI. bhUkhyA rahevA mATe manathI taiyAra thaIne ja huM Avyo hato. alabatta, phaLamAMthI meM sapharajana ane saMtarAM lIdhAM. badhAM potapotAnA Tebala para pAchA pharyA ane jamavA lAgyAM. A vidAya-samAraMbhamAM khAsa koI kAryakrama che ?' pITarane pUchyuM. "khAsa kaMI nathI. basa dArU pIo, khAo, vAto karo, nAca karo ane javuM hoya tyAre jAo. eTalo ja kAryakrama lAge che. pITare kahyuM. sAmAnya rIte duniyAmAM badhe ja AvI mahephilomAM Avo ja kAryakrama hoya che, paNa ahIM vyavasthA, gaurava ane dRSTino abhAva hato. badhAM khAtAM gayAM; dArU pItAM gayAM; sigareTanA dhumADAthI vAtAvaraNa bharAtuM gayuM. saMgItamAM to mAtra eka Drama jorajorathI besUruM DrAMu-DrAMu vAgyA karatuM hatuM. te paNa prAcIna samayanuM vAtAvaraNa jamAvavA ja haze ema lAgyuM. jema samaya jato gayo tema koI koIne nazo caDato gayo. emanA avAja paNa moTA thavA lAgyA. jorazorathI vAto cAlavA lAgI. koI koI barADA pADavA lAgyA. akAraNa aTTahAsyo thavA lAgyAM. koI koI nAcavA lAgyA, dhamAla dhamAla jevuM ghoMghATiyuM vAtAvaraNa thatuM gayuM. evAmAM eka zvetakazI vayovRddha jApAnI lekhaka resTorAMmAM ekalA ekalA AMTA mAravA lAgyA hatA. lAMbI dADhI, jApAnI kimonono paheraveza ane sADAcAra phUTanI UMcAIne kAraNe temanA tarapha tarata badhAMnuM dhyAna gayuM. emanuM moTuM paDI gayuM hatuM. koIke kaMI pUchyuM eTale te DUsakAM bharavA lAgyA. zuM thayuM che tenI khabara na paDI, kAraNa ke temane jApAnI bhASA sivAya bIjI bhASA AvaDatI nahotI. jApAnI lekhakonI zodhAzodha cAlI, paNa koI tyAM nahotA. paDozI TebalanI pratinidhioe mAhitI ApI ke A vRddha lekhakanA bIjA jApAnI lekhaka mitro dArUno vadhu paDato nazo caDatAM eka pachI eka cAlyA gayA hatA ane pote sAva ekalA paDI gayA hatA. tarata sthAnika mahilA pratinidhio temano hAtha pakaDIne potAnA Tebala pAse laI gaI ane besADyA. DhIlA paDelA e lekhakanI AMkhamAMthI AMsu saratAM hatAM. badhAMe siDanInI phaeNravela-pArTI ga 327

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emane chAnA rAkhyA. emane hoTela para pahoMcADavAnI vyavasthA thaI. eka tamAzA jevI ghaTanA thaI gaI. alabatta, Ama banavAnuM kAraNa AkhA kAryakramanuM Ayojana DhaMgadhaDA vagaranuM hatuM te hatuM. nahi koI vyavasthita kAryakrama ke nahi pratinidhi lekhakonI Ayojako taraphatI pUrI saMbhALa. yajamAna osTreliyana pratinidhio judA judA dezanA pratinidhio vacce vaheMcAI javAne badale potAnuM ja juduM ToLuM jamAvIne beThA hatA. lekhakonI AvI AMtararASTriya mahephilamAM paNa taMga AMtararASTriya rAjakIya vAtAvaraNa anubhavAtuM hatuM. amArA Tebala upara huM ane pITara svastha hatA. bAkInA pAMcane nazo caDato jato hato. emanA bolavAmAM have DhaMgadhaDo rahyo nahoto. huM kaMTALyo hato. amane hoTela para laI janArI basa rAtanA agiyAra vAgye AvavAnI hatI. haju to sADA nava vAgyA hatA. dhIme dhIme keTalAka javA lAgyA hatA, paNa je jAya te potAne kharce. TaeNksInA paisA bacAvavA ke A kAryakramamAM vadhu besIne mAthuM pakavavuM - e be vikalpomAMthI eka pasaMda karavAno hato. huM bahAra nIkaLyo. tyAM lobImAM bAMglAdezanA pratinidhi zAnUna hakka UbhA hatA. meM pUchyuM, "kema ahIM UbhA cho ?' "kyArano kaMTALI gayo chuM. huM paNa kaMTALI gayo chuM. koIno saMgAtha maLe to hoTela para javuM che." "to cAlo, huM TaeNksI karuM ja chuM. huM paNa kaMTALI gayo chuM. pATa AvI haze enI kalpanA nahi. nahi to ahIM Avata ja nahi.' ApaNA pahelethI vIsa DaoNlara kApI lIdhA eTale AvavAnuM mana thAya. paNa ATalI sarasa AMtararASTriya koMgresa yojIne enI chApa enA A chellA kAryakrama dvArA teoe bagADI nAkhI." meM kahyuM "alabatta, meM mAnyuM hatuM ke kadAca Ayojakono potAno khayAla ja AvA kAryakramano haze. paraMtuM A kAryakrama pratye keTalAka sthAnika osTreliyana pratinidhioe pote paNa potAno aNagamo vyakta karyo che, e parathI mane khAtarI thaI ke AyojanamAM ja kyAMka khAmI che. kadAca sthAnika pratinidhi kAryakartAone kAryanI vyaktigata javAbadArI soMpavAnA abhAvane kAraNe tathA vigatonI pUrI cakAsaNI vagara bArobAra resTorAMvALAne sIdho konTrAkTa ApI devAne kAraNe paNa Ama banyuM hoya." hakke kahyuM, "osTreliyAnA A jUnAmAM jUnA vistAramAM pArTI yojIne aitihAsika vAtAvaraNano teo ApaNane anubhava karAvavA mAgatA haze." meM hasatAM kahyuM, "jo ema hoya to te sAcuM che, kAraNa ke jUnA vakhatanI 328 pravAsa-darzana

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A resTorAmAM rIDhA gunegAronI mahephila yojAtI hatI. e mahephila jyAre jAme tyAre te kevI hoya enuM anumAna AjanI pArTI parathI karI zakAya" "kedamAM purAyelA lekhako vize Aje ApaNe garamAgarama carcA karI, paraMtu kedI lekhakonI pArTI kevI hoya teno pratyakSa anubhava Ayojakoe ApaNane karAvyo.' TaeNksI karIne ame hoTela para AvyA. bIje divase khabara paDI ke sADAdasa vAge to Ayojako sahita badhA ja sabhyoe tyAMthI vidAya laI lIdhI hatI. badhAne hoTela para mUkavA mATe je traNa basa agiyAra vAge bolAvavAmAM AvI hatI te badhI khAlI pAchI cAlI gaI hatI. jatI vakhate basamAM besavA mATe paDApaDI hatI ane pAchA pharatI vakhate koI basamAM besanAra nahotuM ! basanA khAlIpaNAe pheravela-pArTI mATe abhiprAya ApI dIdho hato. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) siDanInI phaeNravaeNla-pArTI - 329

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44 roToraA (nyUjhIlenDa) nyUjhIlenDamAM jovA jevAM mahattvanAM sthaLomAMnuM eka te roTozuA (raoNTaoNruvA) che. te javALAmukhI zahera (Volcanic City) che. jvALAmukhI zAnta thaI gayA pachI, gaI sadImAM e tyAM vaseluM che. ame judA judA dezanA keTalAka pravAsIo eka TUrisTa kaMpanInI TUramAM tyAM javA nIkaLyA hatA. amArI basano DrAivara e ja amAro gAiDa hato. enuM nAma hatuM. jhona kresavela. te ghaNo maLatAvaDo, bolakaNo ane majAkamazkarI karavAnA svabhAvavALo hato. potAnA viSayano paNa te accho jANakAra hato. basamAM potAnI sITa sAme rAkhelA moTA arIsAmAM paDatAM amArAM pratibiMba joto jAya ane amArI sAthe vAta karato jAya. potAnA moDhA AgaLa rAkhelA mAikamAM e bolato jAya ane badhuM samajAvato jAya. okalenDathI amArI basa eka pachI eka gAma vaTAvatI AgaLa vadhatI hatI. jovA jevAM sthaLe ame rokAtAM. Akhe raste hariyALI TekarIo jovA maLe. emAM caratAM seMkaDo gheTAMo dUrathI nAnAM nAnAM sapheda TapakAM jevAM bhAsatAM, jANe lIlA raMganI bAMdhaNI na hoya ! roTozuA ame pahoMcavA AvyAM. gAiDe kahyuM, 'roTozuA zaheranuM nAma pAse AvelA roTophuA sarovara parathI paDyuM che. gaI sadImAM garama pANInAM jharaNAMne kAraNe ArogyanA hetuthI A sthaLe loko AvavA lAgyA. AsapAsanA pradezanA mAorI nAmanA AdivAsIo paNa ahIM AvIne vasavA lAgyA. 330 pravAsa-darzana

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AsapAsanA pradezanA mAorI nAmanA AdivAsIo paNa ahIM AvIne vasavA lAgyA. hoTelo, moTelo, gharo, dukAno ema baMdhAtAM gayAM ane ema karatAM aMgrejonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna A zahera vikAsa pAmyuM. ahIM Azare pacAsa hajAranI vastI che. emAM aDadhA mAorI che ane aDadhA ahIM AvIne vaselA yuropiyanonA vaMzajo che. ame roTozuA pahoMcavA AvyA. jANe koI yuddhabhUmi najIka AvyA hoIe tevuM lAgyuM. mazInagana phUTatI hoya evA avAjo thoDI thoDI vAre AvavA lAgyA. koI koI ThekANe dhumADAnA goTA UMce sudhI jatA hatA. ame tyAMthI pasAra thayA tyAre joyuM ke koI koI sthaLe jamInamAMthI dhagadhagatA garama pANIno phuvAro acAnaka pacAsa-so phUTa UMce UMDe ane tarata baMdha thAya. sAthe mazInagana jevo avAja thAya. koI koI jagyAe pANInA UDavA sAthe Trena cAlatI hoya athavA kArakhAnuM cAlatuM hoya evA avAja AvatA hatA. rastAnI baMne bAjunI UMcInIcI jamInamAM AvuM jovA maLatuM hatuM. rastA para cAlatA mANasonI avarajavara lagabhaga nahi jevI hatI, sivAya ke makAna ke dukAna AgaLa koI pharatA hoya. jvALAmukhInI je jagyA have taddana zAnta, upadravarahita thaI gaI che. tyAM rastAo, hoTelo, moTelo vagere karavAmAM AvyAM che. gAiDe kahyuM, 'roTaruAmAM koI paNa jagyAe boriMga karavAmAM Ave to thoDA phUTa nIce jatAM gaMdhakanI vAsavALuM garama pANI nIkaLe che. eTalA mATe to roTozuAne gaMdhakanagara - Sulphur City - paNa kahevAmAM Ave che. ame roTozuA zaheramAM dAkhala thayA. hoTelo ane moTelo AvavA lAgI. dareka upara Mineral Bath athavA Thermal PoolnuM borDa moTA akSare vaMcAya. pravAsIo mATe garama pANInA hoja e dareka hoTela-moTelanuM mahattvanuM lakSaNa gaNAya. keTalAka loko Arogya mATe ahIM vadhAre divasa rokAya. keTalIka hoTelamAM to enA makAnanI bahAra, rastA parathI dekhAya evA vadhArAnA hoja banAvavAmAM AvyA hatA. keTalIka moTI hoTelomAM evA khullA moTA hoja uparAMta dareka rUmamAM garama pANIno nAno kuMDa hoya. amArI basa eka moTela pAse pahoMcI. moTelamAM rahevAnI ane jAte banAvI levAnAM cA-pANInI sagavaDa hoya, paNa bhojananI sagavaDa na hoya. ame potapotAnI rUmamAM sAmAna mUkI eka kalAkano ArAma karI roToAnAM judAM judAM sthaLo jovA UpaDyA. ame eka jagyAe pahoMcyAM. mAorI loko cokhA, makAI, zAkabhAjI roTozuA ja 331

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vagere garama pANInA kuMDamAM boLI rAkhIne pakavatA hatA. (A dRzya joIne yamunotrInA garama pANInA kuMDamAM eka poTalImAM cokhA mUkI te sIjhavIne bhAta banAvI khAdhAnuM smaraNa tAjuM thayuM.) keTalIka jagyAe satata nIkaLatA gesane pAipa vATe laI cUlA banAvavAmAM AvyA hatA. emAM divasa-rAta gesa saLagyA kare. enA upara ghaNA loko rasoI karI letA hatA. keTalIka jagyAe jamInamAM khADo khodI, emAMthI nIkaLatI garama garama varALamAM khAdyasAmagrI mUkI, upara lAkaDAnuM ke loDhAnuM pATiyuM DhAMkI devAmAM AvatuM. varALanI garamI jeTalI hoya te pramANe eTalA samayamAM rAMdhavAnuM taiyAra thaI jAya. AvI rIte karelA bhojanane ahIMnA mAorI loko "hAMgI' kahe che. amArI basa AgaLa cAlatI. gAiDa jyone mAorI lokono paricaya ApatAM kahyuM, "mAorI loko nyUjhIlenDanA AdivAsIo che. dakSiNa paeNsiphika mahAsAgaranA A vistAramAM saikAo pUrve AdivAsI ToLIo khetI, zikAra, mAchalI, gheTAMno uchera vagerenI dRSTie eka TApu uparathI bIjA TApu upara sthaLAMtara karatI rahetI hatI. e rIte saikAo pUrve keTalIka polIziyana jAtinA loko nyUjhIlenDanA TApuomAM AvIne vasyA te mAorI tarIke oLakhAyA. mAorI AdivAsIo gorI cAmaDInA che. cahero goLa ke laMbagoLa hoya che. teo ghaNA sazakta ane buddhizALI che. ogaNIsamI sadInA madhya bhAgamAM aMgrejoe jyAre nyUjhIlenDa upara kabajo meLavI potAnuM saMsthAna banAvyuM tyAre mAorI lokoe bhAre laData ApI hatI, paraMtu Adhunika zastrothI sajja briTiza sainiko sAme teo vadhu jhUkI zakyA nahi. aMgrejo ane bIjA yuropiyano ahIM AvIne vasyA. mAorI sAthe teo haLyAMbhaLyA. duniyAnI seMkaDo AdivAsI jAtiomAM prathama naMbare kadAca mAorI loko Ave. teo sauthI vadhu pragatizIla che. haju ghaNA mAorI jaMgalomAM ane dUranA TApuomAM AdivAsI jevuM jIvana jIve che, paraMtu ghaNA mAorI have khetI ke gheTAMucheranuM kAma nathI karatA. teo yunivarsiTIomAM abhyAsa kare che, judA judA vyavasAyomAM joDAyelA che, sarakArI nokarIomAM che, kArakhAnAMonA mAlika che, pArlAmenTa sabhya paNa che ane minisTara paNa banyA che. moTAM zaheromAM mAorI ane emanI prajA paNa moTI thaI gaI mAorIno paricaya ApyA pachI jyone kahyuM, "A badhuM sAMbhaLI tamane badhAMne mAorI lokone maLavAnuM mana thayuM haze ! e mATe Aje sAMje ja ApaNe kAryakrama goThavyo che. tamane mAorI lokanRtya jovA maLaze. mArI eka khAsa mahilAmitra A lokanRtyanI saMcAlikA che. tamane badhAMne joIne e to 332 pravAsa-darzana

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eTalI badhI rAjI thaI jaze ke vAta na pUcho !' amArI basa AgaLa cAlI. eka sthaLe UbhI rahI. tyAM garama pANInuM nAnuM taLAva hatuM. nIlA raMganA dhagadhagatA pANImAMthI varALanA goTegoTA satata nIkaLatA hatA. enA pANInuM tApamAna eTaluM badhuM che ane taLAva eTaluM badhuM UMDuM che ke enuM mApa koI kADhI zakyuM nathI. eTalA mATe enuM Bottomless Pond (ataLa taLAva) evuM nAma paDI gayuM che. enA kinAre keTalAka mAorI loko anAjano kothaLo pANImAM DubADI te sIjhavatA hatA. ame bIjA eka sthaLe gayAM. tyAM eka khaDaka hato jenuM nAma hatuM Boxing Gloves. javALAmukhI jyAre phATyo haze ene dhagadhagato lAvArasa UchaLI UchaLIne TharavA lAgyo haze tyAre A sthaLe evI AkRti thaI gaI che ke jANe baoNksiMganI ramata mATenAM rabaranAM jADAM moTAM mojAM na hoya ! bIjA eka sthaLe eka sAva nAnuM khAbociyuM hatuM. emAM pANI nahotuM paNa bhIno kAdava hato. kAdava khadabadato hato. moTA moTA parapoTA dekhAtA ane kAdava UMconIco thayA karato hato. nIcethI nIkaLatA garama pANI ane joradAra pavanane lIdhe khadakhadatA kAdavanA loMdA thoDA UMce UchaLI jarAka Aghe jaIne paDatA. AvA UchaLatA loMdA te jANe deDakAM kUdatAM na hoya evA lAgatA hatA. eno raMga paNa deDakAnA raMga jevo hato. ethI e khAbociyAnuM nAma Frog Pond paDI gayuM che. roTaruAmAM dharatInA peTALamAM gaMdhakavALuM garama pANI che ane gesa che. paraMtu varasAda paDavAne lIdhe ahIM dharatInI upara ThaMDA pANInuM eka chIcharuM jharaNuM vahe che. enuM pANI kAca jevuM pAradarzaka che. ThaMDA pradezomAM garama pANInAM jharaNAM ke kuMDa pavitra manAya che. ahIM lAvArasanA pradezamAM ThaMDA pANInAM jharaNAMno mahimA moTo che. A jharaNAMnA pula uparathI pasAra thatA loko pANImAM sikkA nAkhatA jAya che. AvA sikkA levA mATe mArI laMgoTiyA chokarAo pANImAM rahe che ane sikko paDe ke tarata te levA mATe DUbakI mAre che. ame paNa tyAM pahoMcIne sikkA nAkhyA. jyone kahyuM, "A chokarAonA gAla tame joyA ? keTalA phUlelA che ? enuM kAraNa khabara che ? enuM kAraNa e che ke roja savArathI sAMja sudhI jema jema sikkA maLatA jAya tema tema tarata teo sAcavavA mATe tene moDhAnA galophAmAM mUkIne bharAvI rAkhe che." meM kahyuM, "amArA bhAratamAM keTalAMka tIrthasthaLomAM vAMdarAo A rIte vadhArAnuM khAvAnuM galophAmAM bharAvI rAkhe che. eTale emanA gAla paNa evA roToA 333

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phUlelA ane labaDelA thaI jAya che." roTogruAmAM bIjAM keTalAMka sthaLa joIne ame "hoTela roToruA inTaranaeNzanalamAM pahoMcyAM. sAMja paDavA AvI hatI. A vizALa hoTelamAM amAre mATe mAorI lokanRtya jovAno ane hAMgInA bhojanano kAryakrama rAkhavAmAM Avyo hato. jyone pharI kahyuM, "ahIM tamane khUba majhA Avaze. mAorI lokanRtyanI nirdezikA polIne mArI khAsa mitra che. tame jojo ke mane jotAM ja te kevI AnaMdamAM AvI jAya che ane nAcavA lAge che." ame hoTelamAM dAkhala thayAM. mAorI yuvaka-yuvatIoe amAruM svAgata karyuM. mArI bhASAmAM kahyuM, "kiyA orA', ane moDhAmAMthI jIbha kADhI. kiyA orA' eTale tamAruM svAgata karIe chIe. mahemAnonuM svAgata karavA mATe moDhAmAMthI jIbha kADhavAno teomAM rivAja che. hoTelamAM dAkhala thaIne enA udyAnamAM ame beThAM. jyone kahyuM, "mArInI saMskRti judI che. teo moDhA upara ane nAka upara paNa chUMdaNAM karAve che. teo potAnA gharamAM vaMzAvaLI rAkhe che. jIbha kADhIne svAgata karavuM e prakArano teomAM rivAja che. teonA zilpamAM paNa tamane jIbha kADhelI AkRtio jovA maLaze. mAorI zilpamAM baMne hAthanI phakta traNa traNa AMgaLI ja khullI batAvAya che. e traNa AMgaLIo janma, jIvana ane mRtyunI sUcaka che.' pachI mArA tarapha joIne jyone kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, eka vAta jANIne tamane bhAratIya lokone AnaMda thaze ke mAorI loko jamatI vakhate jarA paNa eThuM mUkatA nathI. teo devadevIonI pUjA kare che ane mAnatA mAne che. teo vanadevatA 'tAne mAhutAmAM ane samudradevatA tAMgAroAmAM vizeSa zraddhA dharAve che." udyAnamAM vacce taraNahoja hato. jemane emAM nahAvuM hoya te navAI zake. jyone kahyuM, "haju tamArI pAse aDadho kalAka che. tame pharavuM hoya to tyAM pharI zako cho. nahAvuM hoya to navAI zako cho. barAbara sADA cha vAge lokanRtya zarU thaze. tame samayasara ahIM AvI jazo. ApaNA grupa mATe judI khurazIo rAkhelI che." sADA cha vAge mAorI lokanRtyano kAryakrama cAlu thayo. mAorI yuvakayuvatIoe potAno viziSTa poSAka dhAraNa karyo hato. lAkaDAnI raMgaberaMgI bhUMgaLIo ane maNakAo dorImAM bharAvela te temanI kamare khIcokhIca laTakatA hatA. e ja emanuM kaTivastra hatuM. temanA hAthamAM rahelI ekAda phUTa 334 * pravAsa-darzana

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jeTalI lAMbI dorIne cheDe lUgaDAnA raMgaberaMgI daDA laTakatA hatA. jIbha kADhI teoe amAruM svAgata karyuM. mAorInAM gAmaThI DholanagArAM sAthe nRtya zarU thayuM. nRtya karatI vakhate teo daDA potAnI kamare evI rIte vIMjhatA ke bhaTakAya ane taDataDa avAja thAya. teo bulaMda svare gAtA, goLagoLa pharatA ane daDA vIMjhatA. vaLI jIbha halAvatA ane hAthanI AMgaLIomAM dhrujArI karatA. darekanA caherA upara smita ane ullAsa varatAtAM. daDAnAM traNa nRtya karyA pachI teoe dAMDiyArAsa cAlu karyA. dAMDiyA ApaNA hoya che tenA karatAM saheja lAMbA hatA ane vaccethI pakaDelA hatA. emanA dAMDiyArAsa jotAM jANe gujarAtamAM hoIe evuM lAge. bIjI eka viziSTatA teonI e hatI ke potapotAnA bheru sAthe ramatAM ramatAM dAMDiyAnI tAlabaddha rIte jhaDapathI adalAbadalI karI letA. AmAM polIna koNa che te zodhI kADhavA jhona amane kahyuM, badhAmAM UMcI, cabarAka, satata smita pharakAvatI ane tAlabaddha suMdara nRtya karatI trIseka varSanI yuvatI polIna hovI joIe e amArAM badhAMnuM anumAna sAcuM paDyuM. bIjI rIte paNa e sAcuM hatuM. rAsa pUro thAya, paNa jatI vakhate ramatAM ramatAM potAnA dAMDiyA nAyaka ane nAyikAnA hAthamAM tAlabaddha rIte layapUrvaka pheMkatAM jAya. eka paNa dAMDiyo nIce na paDe. dAMDiyA jhIlIne ekaThA karanAra nAyikA te ja polIna. lokanRtyano kAryakrama pUro thayo. have bhojanano kAryakrama cAlu thavAno hato. eTalAmAM to udyAnamAM judI judI jagyAe dhumADAnA goTegoTA nIkaLavA lAgyA. roTaruAmAM na hoIe to Aga lAgI haze evo ja vahema paDe. ame kutUhalathI jotA hatA. dhumADo ocho thayo tyAM jaNAyuM ke hoTelanA veiTaro udyAnamAM judI judI jagyAe jamInamAM karelAM moTAM bAkorAnAM DhAMkaNAM ughADI aMdarathI moTAM moTAM vAsaNo kADhatA hatA. emAM bhAtabhAtanI khAdyasAmagrI hatI. gaMdhakanI varALathI ene pakavavAmAM AvI hatI. amAre mATe e "hAMgI'nI vAnagIo hatI. doDhaso jeTalA pravAsIo vizALa bhojanakhaMDamAM potapotAnA mukarara karelA Tebala para goThavAI gayA. pAMceka Tebala para vAnagIo mUkavAmAM AvI hatI. buphe paddhati hatI. paraMtu je Tebalano naMbara bolAya te TebalanA mahemAno ja vAnagI levA jAya jethI giradI ke dhakkAdhakkI thAya nahi. zAkAhArI vAnagIomAM bhAta, makAI, kAkaDI, vaTANA, kobI, TAmeTAM vagere pacIseka cIjo haze. jene je joIe te le. enA mATe jemane masAlo joIe teo masAlo le. meM mArA niyamAnusAra anukULa vAnagIo pasaMda karI lIdhI. roTozuA traH 335

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mAorI yuvaka-yuvatIo lokanRtyano veza badalIne AvI gayAM hatAM ane pIrasavAmAM magna banI gayAM hatAM. jene je vAnagI, pINAM joItAM hoya te lAvI ApatAM. amArA Tebala pAsethI polIna pasAra thaI. jyone Tahuko karyo, "polIna'. paNa te to jANe kazuM sAMbhaLyuM ja na hoya tema cAlI gaI. amane navAI lAgI. mukhya vyakti, netA, abhinetA sAthe potAne bahu ja gADha saMbaMdha che evAM baNagAM phUMkavAno keTalAkane zokha hoya che, paNa vAstavamAM ghaNI vAra evuM nathI hotuM. jhonanuM paNa evuM to nahi hoya ne ? mArA manamAM vicAra spharyo, paNa utAvaLe abhiprAya bAMdhavo yogya na lAgyo. eTalAmAM polIna pharI amArA Tebala AgaLathI pasAra thaI. AMgaLInA izAre te mahemAnonI saMkhyAnI gaNatarI karatI hatI. jyone pharIthI bUma pADI. "polIna'. paNa teNe to jANe kaMI oLakhatI ja na hoya evo dekhAva karyo eTaluM ja nahi, kaDaka avAje e jhonane vaDhI, "jotA nathI tame ke huM rokAyelI chuM ? mane DisTarba na karo." jhona bhoMTho paDyo. amane thayuM ke jyone polInanAM keTalAM badhAM vakhANa karyA hatAM ane A bAI to jANe potAne kazI ja levA devA nathI ema varte che. chaNako karIne vAta karatI te amane aprasanna ane avinayI lAgI. amArAmAMthI koI bolyuM, "Aje ene potAnA dhaNI sAthe jhaghaDo thayo haze, nahi to AvuM vartana kare nahi." "dhaNI sAthe jhaghaDo thayo hoya ema lAgatuM nathI. nRtya karatI vakhate te kevI prasanna hatI. eno cahero kevo maraka maraka thato hato.' koIka potAnuM avalokana jaNAvyuM. bIjuM koIka bolyuM, 'mi. jyona, tamArI sAthe to kaMI aNabanAva nathI thayo ne ? juone, bIjA TebalanA mahemAno sAthe kevI hasIne vAta kare che !' koIke vaLI kahyuM, 'mi. jyona, AvI uddhata rIte vartanAra strI sAthe tamAro saMbaMdha na rAkhavo joIe evI mArI bhalAmaNa che.' koIka vaLI potAnI aMgata saMvedanAne ugratAthI darzAvatAM kahyuM, "AvI bairI hoya to huM to tarata chUTAcheDA ApI dauM. meM be strIone evI rIte chUTAcheDA ApI dIdhA che. huM to jarA paNa calAvI levAmAM mAnato nathI.' koIke prazna karyo, 'mi. jyona, mAorI bairAMonI AvI khAsiyata to nahi hoya ne ? keTalIka komanAM bairAMo puruSo karatAM paNa jabarAM hoya jyone kahyuM, "nA, evuM nathI. A to koNa jANe kema Ama vartI tenI 336 jhaH pravAsa-darzana

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khabara na paDI. mane potAne bahu Azcarya thAya che. paNa tamArA vicAro ane anubhavo sAMbhaLIne mane thoDuM sAMtvana maLe che. mitro, polInanA AvA vartananI tamArA mana para jarA paNa asara thavA dezo nahi. tame prasannatApUrvaka bhojana lejo. Aje bhale e risAI hoya, bIjI vAra AvIza tyAre ene manAvI laIza. strInuM caritra ja evuM hoya che. strIne oLakhavI e koI sahelI vAta nathI.' hAMgInA jamaNa pachI chelle AiskrIma ane pachI kaoNphI AvyAM. kaoNphI pItAM pItAM jhone kahyuM, 'have thoDI vAramAM ApaNe basamAM besI ApaNI moTela para jaIzuM. tyAM rAta rokavAnuM che, have tamAro abhiprAya pUchI lauM. polInane bolAvavAno eka vAra chello prayatna karI lauM ?' 'nA, hAthe karIne pharIthI apamAnita thavAnI zI jarUra ?' koIke kahyuM. 'AvI bAIne to jiMdagIbhara bolAvavI na joIe.' bIjAe kahyuM. koIka vaLI judo abhiprAya Apyo, 'ApaNe badhA pravAsIo potapotAnA gAme cAlyA jaIzuM. jmonane to vAraMvAra ahIM AvavAnuM che, bhale bicAro eka vAra prayAsa karI jue.' eTalAmAM amArA kaoNphInA kapa uThAvavA polIna amArA Tebala 52 AvI pahoMcI. jhone lADathI Tahuko karyo : 'po...lI...na.' polIne jhonanI sAme joyuM. eka kSaNa thaMbhI ane enI sAme tAkI rahI. pachI jorathI khaDakhaDATa hasatI bolI UThI, 'are jhona, tame cho ? mApha karajo. mahemAnonuM dhyAna rAkhavAmAM huM magna hatI, eTale mAruM tamArA ta2pha dhyAna na gayuM.' pachI eNe mahemAnone vinaMtI karI, 'mAre mATe jagyA karo, plIjha. mAre mArA vhAlA dosta jhonanI sAthe be miniTa besavuM joIe. ene kadAca mAThuM lAgyuM haze.' jhonanI bAjunA pravAsI AghA khasyA. polIna jhonanI bAjumAM beThI. enA gALAmAM hAtha nAkhI bolI, 'jhona, tamane maLyA vagara mane kema game ?' pachI jyone amArAM badhAMno paricaya karAvyo. badhAMnI sAthe eNe hAtha milAvyA. te khuzakhuzAla jaNAtI hatI. thoDI vAra besI eNe kahyuM, 'bhale... huM jAuM. hamaNAM huM kAmamAM rokAyelI chuM. paNa basa upara tamane badhAMne vaLAvavA jarU2 AvIza. mArI rAha jojo.' polIna amArA khAlI kapa uThAvIne gaI ane potAnA kAmamAM parovAI gaI. roToruA * 337

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kiMIka khinna thayeluM vAtAvaraNa pAchuM prasanna thaI gayuM. sAruM thayuM ke ApaNe ene chelle bolAvI. nahi to ApaNe eka khoTI chApa laIne jAta ane bicArIne anyAya thAta.' koIke enA mATe hamadardI batAvI. - "strIono koI bharoso nahi, ghaDIkamAM rAjI ane ghaDIkamAM khinna." koIke potAnI philasUphI hAMkI. "mane to e nATakI lAgI. keTalIka abhimAnI strIono evo svabhAva hoya che. sAva sAmAnya strI paNa ATalI uddhata na thaI zake." eka mahilA yajamAne abhiprAya uccAryo. mAorI lokanRtya ane hAMgInA bhojanano amAro kAryakrama pUro thayo. mahemAno vidAya levA lAgyA. mAorI yuvaka-yuvatI saune vidAya ApavA hoTelanA daravAjAne cheDe hArabaMdha UbhAM rahI gayAM. hasIne mAthuM namAvatAM hatAM. polIna paNa emAM UbhI hatI. amArA grupane bhAvabharI vidAya eNe laLIlaLIne ApI. ame sau basamAM goThavAyAM. badhAM ja AvI gayAM hatAM. jhona paNa potAnI sITamAM besI gayo hato. eNe kahyuM, "ApaNe polInanI rAha joIzuM ? eNe pote kahyuM che eTale AvavI to joIe. jo traNacAra miniTamAM na Ave to ApaNe jaIzuM. barAbara che ?' 'bhale thoDI vadhAre rAha jovI paDe, paNa ene AvavA do." keTalAka bolyA. tyAM to polIna doDatI AvI. basanAM pagathiyAM caDI hona pAse UbhI rahI. pachI mAikamAM bolI, "basa, tamArAM badhAMno AbhAra mAnavA ane guDabAya karavA AvI chuM. pharI nyUjhIlenDa Avo to jarUra amArI hoTelanI mulAkAta lezo. tamArA gAiDa to keTalA badhA maLatAvaDA, hasamukhA ane 2mUjI svabhAvanA che. mArA to e khAsa mitra che. have tame badhAM jAo cho tyAre mAre mAtra ATalo ja khulAso karavo che. tamane badhAMne jhona sAthenuM zarUAtanuM mAruM vartana gamyuM nahi hoya, kharuM ne ?' sAce ja.' tamane mAre mATe ane strIo mATe jAtajAtanA vicAro skuryA haze, kharuM ne ?' barAbara.' e mATe huM tamArAM badhAMnI mAphI mAguM chuM, paNa huM khAtarI ApuM chuM ke 338 4 pravAsa-darzana

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tame bIjI vAra ahIM Avazo tyAre paNa huM e pramANe ja vartIza." vartIza ke nahi vatuM ?' polInanI bhUla sudhAravA badhAM bolI UThyAM. hasatI hasatI e bolI, "vartIza, vartAza ane vartIza, kema jyona, barAbara che ne ?' "barAbara che', jyone kahyuM. hone samajyA vagara TApazI purAvI hoya ema lAgyuM. bolavAmAM kaMI gerasamaja thatI amane lAgI. koIke kahyuM, "jyona, tamane kaMI svamAna jevuM che ke nahi ? polIna zuM bole che te barAbara samajAyuM ?' tyAM baMne khaDakhaDATa hasI paDyAM. polIne kahyuM, "huM pharI vAra paNa e pramANe ja vartIza, kAraNa ke mAruM ane jhonanuM e goThaveluM nATaka hoya che." temanuM khaDakhaDATa hasavAnuM cAlu rahyuM. ame badhAM paNa Azcarya sahita khaDakhaDATa hasI paDyAM. tALIonA gaDagaDATa thayA. polIna vidAya laIne gaI. ame bolyAM, "are jyona, tame to kamAla cho. Ajano prasaMga to kAyama yAda rahI jaze.' jyone kahyuM, "tame amAruM kAvataruM pakaDI zako cho ke nahi te jovA ane strIo mATenA tamArA vividha abhiprAyo ane aMgata saMvedanAo jANavA mATe meM Ama karyuM hatuM.' amArI basa hoTela choDI moTela tarapha cAlavA lAgI. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-2 : uttarAlekhana) roTozuA 339

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45 malpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa lUka (nyUjhIlenDa) naisargika saundaryasamRddhithI sabhara evA dezomAM nyUjhIlenDanuM sthAna mokhare che. nAnAmoTA saMkhyAbaMdha TApuo, sudIrgha samudrakinAro, bAre mAsa samazItoSNa AbohavA, hariyALAM khetaro ane khuzamijAjI prajAjanone kAraNe nyUjhIlenDamAM pravezatAM ja vAtAvaraNa uSmAbharyuM AvakAradAyaka lAge che. nyUjhIlenDa bhaugolika vistAranI dRSTie jApAna jevaDo deza che, paraMtu jApAnamAM eTalA pradezamAM Azare agiyAra karoDa mANaso vase che, jyAre nyUjhIlenDamAM phakta pAMtrIsa lAkha jeTalI vasati che. enA uparathI nyUjhIlenDamAM jagyAnI mokaLAza keTalI badhI haze teno khayAla Avaze. eTale ja briTiza sAmrAjyano sUrya jyAre jhaLahaLato tyAre aneka briTiza nAgariko potAnuM zeSa nivRtta jIvana zAMtithI pasAra karavA iMglenDa choDIne potAnA saMsthAna nyUjhIlenDamAM AvIne vasatA hatA. emanA vaMzajo ane sthAnika AdivAsI jAtinA mAorI loko sumeLathI tyAM rahe che. atyaMta ramaNIya, zAMtipriya, AMtarika saMgharSarahita, anya dezo sAthe veravirodha vinA sukhI dezomAM nyUjhIlenDanI gaNanA thAya che. garIbI, bekArI, gaMdakI, gunAkhorI, pradUSaNa vagerenuM pramANa tyAM nahivat che. eTale ja kivI nAmanA vilakSaNa pakSInA deza tarIke oLakhAtA nyUjhIlenDa tarapha videzI pravAsIono dhasAro rahe che. amArI eka maMDaLIno pravAsa siMgApura, osTreliyA ane nyUjhIlenDano goThavAyo hato. nyUjhIlenDamAM vividha sthaLe pharIne ame enA dakSiNa TApumAM 340 pravAsa-darzana

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kvInsa TAunamAM AvyA hatA. ahIMthI have amAre haju paNa dakSiNe milka sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka jAvanuM hatuM. - kvInsa TAuna hamaNAM hamaNAM "bajI jaMpiMga' jevI sAhasika ramato mATe jANItuM thayuM che. bajI jaMpiMga eTale be page sthitisthApaka doraDuM bAMdhIne so-baso phUTa UMce pula uparathI evI rIte nIce paDatuM mUkavAnuM ke jethI pANIthI thoDA adhdhara rahevAya ane mAthuM bhaTakAya nahi. nIce paDIne UMdhe mAthe laTakyA pachI kUdanArane levA mATe boTa tarata AvI pahoMce che. dila dhaDakAvanAro A eka romAMcaka anubhava che. bajI jaMpiMga mATe amArI maMDaLImAMthI eTalAM badhAM yuvaka-yuvatIoe nAma noMdhAvyAM ke aDadhA jeTalA bAkI rahelA sabhyoe bIje divase milpharDa sAunDa jovAnuM jatuM karIne eka vadhu divasa kvInsa TAunsamAM rokAvAnuM pasaMda karyuM. ame bIjA badhAe kvInsa TAunathI vahelI savAre nIkaLI milka sAunDa tarapha prayANa karyuM. rastAmAM Ti Ano (TE ANAU - Te AnAu) nAmanA sthaLe "kyorDalenDa' nAmanI hoTelamAM sAmAna mUkI, cA-nAsto karI ame AgaLa vadhyA. ahIM rastAnI banne bAju lIlAMchama ghAsiyAM khetaromAM hRSTapuSTa gheTAMo potapotAnA bAMdhelA vADAmAM laherathI caratAM hatAM. ahIM vacce vacce keTalAya mAIla sudhI koInuM ghara dekhAya nahi. A pradezamAM jamInanI ATalI badhI chUTa joIne ApaNane Azcarya thAya. AgaLa jatAM baMne bAju DuMgarAonI hAra AvI. moTAM moTAM vRkSo dekhAyAM. emAM UMcA sIdhAM sUkAM poplara vRkSonI hAra hatI, to kyAMka hArabaMdha ugADelAM pAIna vRkSo hatAM. koIka koIka vizALa khetaramAM chevADe mAlikanuM nAnuM ghara hatuM, paNa koI bahAra haratuM pharatuM dekhAya nahi. kahyAgarAM gheTAMo mAlikano eTalo zrama bacAvatAM hatAM. ahIMnA rabArIo eTale zrImaMta vepArIo. beThAM beThAM ghaNuM kamAya. rastAmAM eka sthaLe amArI basa UbhI rAkhavAmAM AvI. e sthaLanuM nAma "darpaNa sarovara" (Mirror Lake) che. basamAMthI bahAra nIkaLyA tyAre khabara paDI ke bahAra to sakhata ThaMDI hatI ane AchA dhummasa jevuM vAtAvaraNa hatuM. ene lIdhe bolatI vakhate darekanA moDhAmAMthI dhumADA nIkaLatA hatA. sigareTa pIdhA vagara sigareTanA jevA dhumADA kADhavAno AnaMda mANI zakAyo. thoDIvAra havA moDhAmAM rokI rAkhI gAla phulAvIne pachI ghaTTa dhumADAnI lAMbI sera paNa kADhI zakAya. A darpaNa sarovaranI viziSTatA e che enA svaccha, sthira pANImAM pAchaLanAM DuMgarAo, vRkSo, AkAza vagerenuM UMdhuM surekha pratibiMba malpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka jhaka 341

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eTaluM ramaNIya lAge che ke tyAMthI khasavAnuM mana na thAya. jalamAM ATaluM badhuM lAMbuM pahoLuM pratibiMba valle ja jovA maLe. e jovA mATe gIca jhADImAM khAsa lAMbI keDI banAvelI che. mirara lUka nihALI ame eka khINanA vizALa sapATa pradezamAM pravezyA. baMne bAju sUkA ghAsanAM medAno ane dUra DuMgaronI hAramALA hatI. tyAM milpharDa sAunDano rasto TUMko karavA mATe eka lAMbu bogaduM karavAmAM AvyuM che. e homara TanalamAMthI ame pasAra thayA che tyAM thoDIvAramAM milpharDa sAunDa AvI gayuM. mANasa ekalo jyAM saraLatAthI na jaI zake evAM ramaNIya pravAsasthaLonA pravAsa mATe pravAsakaMpanIo vividha prakAranI sagavaDo UbhI kare che. milka sAunDanA baMdarethI moTI moTI sTImaro sahelANIone laIne sAunDanA pANImAM dhIre dhIre moTuM cakkara marAve che. aMgrejI "sAunDa' (sound) zabda viziSTa bhaugolika racanA mATe vaparAya che (ApaNA bhAratamAM AvA sAunDa nathI). prakRtinAM badhAM ja bhaugolika svarUpo mATe ApaNI pAse AgavA viziSTa zabdo nathI, kAraNa ke bhaugolika racanAonA prakAro aneka che. sAunDa zabda paNa judI judI racanAo mATe prayojAya che. ahIM sAunDa eTale samudrano eka nAno phAMTo parvatonI vacce amuka aMtara sudhI gayo hoya ane cheDe lagabhaga ardhavartuLAkAre aTakI gayo hoya. eTale ja sAunDane samudranA hAtha tarIke oLakhAvavAmAM Ave che, kAraNa ke hAthamAM cheDe Avato paMjo pahoLo hoya che. jyAM samudrakinAre parvatonI hAramALA hoya tyAM ja sAunDa hoI zake. sAunDa e kyorDa (girisamudra)no ja eka laghu prakAra che. emAM pANI mahAsAgara jevAM UMDAM na hoya ane ghUghavAtAM na hoya. nyUjhIlenDamAM enA dakSiNa dvipamAM cArlsa sAunDa vagere ghaNA sAunDa che. emAM milpharDa sAunDa, DAuTaphula (Doubtful) sAunDa, jyaoNrja sAunDa, thompasana vagere vadhu prakhyAta che. DAuTaphula sAunDanuM nAma enA anizcita havAmAnane kAraNe paDyuM che. eTale ja sauthI vadhu sahelANIo milpharDa sAunDamAM javAnuM pasaMda kare che. vaLI, milpharDanA jaMgalamAM keDIe keDIe pagapALA janArA paNa hoya che. milpharDa baMdaramAM ame TikiTa laI "milpharDa hevana' nAmanI sTImaramAM beThA. sTImara jatI vakhate DAbI bAjunA kinAre cAlavAnI hatI ane pAchA AvatAM jamaNI bAju. sTImara UpaDI eTale gAiDa yuvatIe mAikamAM mAhitI ApavAnuM zarU karyuM. eNe kahyuM ke ghaNA vaLAMkavALo milpharDa sAunDa soLa kilomITara lAMbo che. enI zodha I.sa. 1823mAM jona grono nAmanA eka 342 pravAsa-darzana

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briTiza zodhasapharIe karI hatI. sIlano zikAra enI zaoNkhanI pravRtti hatI. te sIlanI pAchaLa pAchaLa A pANImAM AvI caDyo ane eNe joyuM ke pote samudramAMthI A kyorDamAM bhUlamAM dAkhala thaI gayo che. cheDe AvatAM ene jaNAyuM ke A to sAunDanA prakArano kyorDa che. eNe A jagyAnuM nAma briTananA potAnA vatana milpharDa uparathI ApyuM hatuM. tyArathI A jagyA milpharDa sAunDa tarIke jANItI che. duniyAnAM keTalAMka atyaMta sohAmaNAM sthaLomAM milpharDa sAunDanI gaNanA thAya che. hajAro varSathI manuSyanA hastakSepa vinA A sthaLe potAnuM saundarya sAcavI rAkhyuM che. dhIre dhIre AgaLa vadhatI sTImaramAM amAre yathecchA besavAnuM hatuM, paraMtu manabhara anubhava to uparanA khullA DekamAM UbhA rahIne cArebAju jovAno hato. gAiDe kahyuM ke "ApaNI jamaNI bAju pANImAM naja2 nAkhatA rahejo. ahIM samudramAM Dolphina ghaNI che, tame nasIbadAra hazo to pANI bahAra kUdatI jovA maLaze.' milpharDa sAunDamAM nAnA nAnA dhodha ghaNA che. moTA dhodhamAM bovena dhodha che. lagabhaga pAMcaso phUTa UMcethI enuM pANI dariyAmAM paDe che. kaptAne dhIme dhIme sTImarane dhodhanI najIka eTalI sarakAvI ke enA UDatA jalasIkaromAM bhIMjAvuM game evuM hatuM. tyAMthI sIdhA UMce dhodhanAM darzana jhAjhI vAra sudhI karavAmAM Doka du:khavA Ave evuM hatuM. amArI sTImara AgaLa cAlI, mahattvanAM sthaLe thoDI vAra rokAtI ane gAiDa te vize mAhitI ApatI rahetI. eka sthaLe parvatanA paththaramAM paDelA ghasarakA batAvIne kahyuM ke A ghasarakA AjakAlanA nathI. hajAra varSa jUnA che. bhUstarazAstrIo kahe che ke paMdara-vIsa hajAra varSa pUrve A milpharDa sAunDa nahoto. ahIM parvato hatA ane enA uparathI himanadI (Glacier) sarakatI hatI. ene kAraNe AsapAsanA parvatone ghasAro lAgato gayo ane samayAntare enuM A sAunDamAM rUpAntara thayuM che. milpharDa sAunDamAM jovA maLatuM eka lAkSaNika sthaLa te "mAInne parvata' che. A evI jagyA che ke jyAM AgaLa, sAunDanA samudramAM, sauthI vadhu lagabhaga AThaso phUTa jeTaluM UMDANa che. A parvatanI evI viziSTatA che ke te pANImAMthI nIkaLIne jANe sIdho Ubho na thayo hoya ! paga pANImAM ane mANasa TaTTAra Ubho hoya evI AkRti A parvatanI che. AvA prakAranA parvatomAM A parvata duniyAmAM sauthI UMco, Azare cha hajAra phUTa UMco che. enuM nAma "mAI-' (Maitre) pADavAmAM AvyuM che, kAraNa ke enuM zikhara mahRrDa sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka jhaka 343

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khristI dharmaguru bizapanI TopI (eTale ke 'mAItre') jevuM che. sAunDanA samagra dRzyamAM te kendrasthAne che ane prabhAvazALI che. soLa kilomITa2no AhlAdaka jalavihAra karIne ame sAunDanA bIjA cheDe AvI pahoMcyA. ahIM eka kinArAnI jagyAne Deila paoNinTa kahe che. ahIM sAmasAmA baMne kinAre parvato dekhAya che. eka bAju I.sa. 1800mAM bAMdhelI dIvAdAMDI che ke jethI jUnA vakhatamAM mahAsAgaramAM pasAra thatAM jahAjo bhUlamAM A sAMkaDI jalapaTTImAM dAkhala na thaI jAya. amArI sTImara sAunDamAMthI bahAra nIkaLI dakSiNa paeNsiphika mahAsAgaramAM dAkhala thaI. samudranA pANImAM sarahadI rekhAo dorI zakAtI nathI, eTale gAiDe kahyuM tyAre ja khabara paDI ke ame have mahAsAgaramAM chIe. sTImare eka moTuM cakkara lagAvyuM. sAunDanA kinArA dekhAtA baMdha thayA. cArebAju mahAsAgaranAM jaLa hiloLA letAM hatAM. vAtAvaraNa svaccha, svastha ane prasanna hatuM. Deka uparathI vartuLAkAra kSitijanAM, upara Abha ane nIce jalarAzinAM darzana eka Agavo anubhava karAvatAM hatAM. mahAsAgaramAMthI ame have sAunDamAM pAchA pharyA. sAsare AvelI rUDhicusta navoDhAnI jema pANI have zAnta ane saMyamita banyAM. sTImare DAbI bAjuno kinAro pakaDyo. eka jagyAe sTImara UbhI rahI. gAiDe eka khaDaka batAvIne kahyuM ke e 'sIla khaDaka' (Seal Rock) che. sIla ThaMDA pradezanuM dariyAI prANI che. te jaLacara che ane sthaLacara paNa che. te rAtre dariyAmAM UMDe sudhI jaI zikAra karatuM rahe che ane divasa daramiyAna vacce vacce bahAra AvI AvA khaDaka para ArAma kare che. sTImara UbhI rahI tyAM sudhI eka paNa sIla amane jovA na maLyuM. ame nirAza thayA. koIke majAka karI ke 'have bIjI vAra milpharDa sAunDa jovA AvIzuM tyAre sIla ane Dolphina beya jovA maLaze.' bIjAe gaMbhIratAthI kahyuM, 'jiMdagImAM ATale dUra AvavAnuM to thAya tyAre thAya. sIla ane Dolphina mATe paisA kharacavA enA karatAM bIjA koI sthaLano pravAsa na karIe ?' pAchA pharatAM gAiDe amane bIjAM keTalAMka sthaLa batAvyAM. eka jagyAe pANIthI be hajAra phUTa upara eka khaDaka laTakI rahelo che. sTopa vaoNca rAkhIne enA u52thI jo eka paththara choDavAmAM Ave to nIce pANImAM paDatAM ene soLa sekanDa lAge che. eka sthaLe sAunDano 'pembroka' nAmano UMcAmAM UMco parvata che. sADAcha hajAra phUTa UMco A parvata kAyama himAcchAdita rahe che. parvata parano baraphano tha2 savAso phUTa jeTalo jADo che. A tharanI nIcenA 344 * pravAsa-darzana

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baraphane kyAreya ogaLavAno avasara sAMpaDyo nathI. sAMja paDatAM amArI sTImara baMdare pAchI pharI. zAnta, ramya sAunDamAM jalavihA2no amAro anubhava smaraNIya banI rahyo. basamAM besI, homara Tanala pasAra karI ame amArI hoTela para AvI gayA. daramiyAna amArA bIjA grupanA sabhyo paNa kvInsa TAunamAM 'banjI jaMpiMga' karIne AvI gayA. bhojanaveLAe saue potapotAnA anubhavonI vAto karI. milpharDa sAunDanAM eTalAM badhAM vakhANa thayAM ke teomAMnA keTalAkane thayuM ke banjI jaMpiMga na karyuM hota to sAruM. banjI jaMpiMganA badalAmAM temaNe milpharDa sAunDa gumAvyuM. temaNe potAno nirAzAjanaka kacavATa Ayojako AgaLa vyakta karyo. bIje divase savAre Ayojakoe potAno nirNaya jAhera karyo, 'Aje ApaNe milpharDa sAunDa pharIthI jaIe chIe. ApaNI pAse samaya che. alabatta, have mAunTa kUka mATe AvatI kAle vahelI savAre prayANa karavuM paDaze.' milpharDa sAunDano nirNaya jAhera thatAM badhAmAM AnaMda prasarI gayo. hoTelathI nIkaLI homara Tanala pasAra karI, baMdare pahoMcI, sTImaramAM besI gayA. jeo jaI AvyA hatA teo bAkInAne mATe aDadhA gAiDa banI javAnA utsAhamAM hatA. bIjI vArano amAro pravAsa evo ja harSollAsayukta rahyo. vizeSamAM amane pANImAM chalAMgo mAratI be Dolphinano mahAsAgara sudhI sAtha maLyo. vaLatAM 'sIla khaDaka' para ekabIjA para mAthuM rAkhIne ghasaghasATa UMghatA AThanava sIla jovA maLyAM. koIke majAkamAM uccArelI bhaviSyavANI ATalI badhI vahelI sAcI paDaze evuM dhAryuM nahotuM. bIje divase savAre ame mAunTa kUka jovA UpaDyA. nyUjhIlaeNnDano A UMcAmAM UMco himAcchAdita parvata che. enI UMcAI 12,349 phUTa che. nyUjhIlaeNnDanI himAcchAdita parvatamALAne jUnA vakhatamAM aMgrejoe 'dakSiNa Alpsa' evuM nAma ApyuM hatuM. mAunTa kUkanuM nAma nyUjhIlaeNnDanI zodhasaphara karanAra jemsa phUMkanA nAma parathI apAyuM che. ame mAunTa kUka pAse pahoMcyA. ahIM keTalAka Arohako saraMjAma sAthe AvI, taMbumAM mukAma karI TheTha zikhara sudhI baraphamAM pahoMce che. keTalAka amuka UMcAI sudhI page caDhIne pAchA phare che. keTalAka pravAsIo moTa2basamAM AsapAsa cakkara lagAve che. helikaoNpTaramAM ke nAnA vimAnamAM jeone upara javuM hoya to te mATe paNa vyavasthA che. ame keTalAke helikaoNpTaramAM javAnuM pasaMda karyuM. pravAsana-kendra pAsethI UpaDatAM lAla-bhUrA raMganAM, mahAkAya pakSI jevAM helikaoNpTaramAM ame UDyA. helikaoNpTare dhIre dhIre parvatanI AsapAsa malpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka * 345

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pradakSiNA karI ke jethI enuM badhI bAjuthI barAbara darzana thAya. tyAra pachI lagabhaga dasa hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe baraphanA eka vizALa sapATa vistAramAM eNe utarANa karyuM. helikaoNpTaramAM mAunTa kUkanA zikhara paranA baraphamAM pahoMcavuM e paNa eka romAMcaka kvacit paramatattvanI jhAMkhI karAvanAra anubhava che. ahIM baraphamAM cAlavA ane phoTA pADavA daseka miniTa amane ApI hatI. helikopTaramAMthI huM Utaryo. mArAM patnI na UtaryA, kAraNa ke barapamAM cAlavAnuM emane phAve ema na hatuM. pocA pocA baraphamAM mArA paga kheMcI jatA hatA. eTale samatolapaNuM sAcavIne pharavAnuM hatuM. vaLI baraphamAM lapasI paDavAno bhaya paNa rahe. ThaMDA pradezomAM keTalAya lokone baraphamAM cAlavAno niyamita anubhava hoya che. amArAmAMnA keTalAyane jiMdagImAM pahelI vAra Avo barapha jovAno ane emAM cAlavAno prasaMga hato. parvatanI UMcAI, UMcAInI pAtaLI havA, baraphamAM cAlavAnuM, sakhata ThaMDI - A badhAMne kAraNe keTalAkane thatuM ke jhaTa nIce salAmata sthaLe pahoMcI jaIe to sAruM. mAunTa kUkanAM darzana-ArohaNa pachI ame sau pAchA pharyA. himAcchAdita zikharonI hAramALAnuM bhavya dazya basamAMthI satata nihALavA maLatuM hatuM. rastAmAM TekApo (Tekapo) nAmanuM sarovara jovA maLyuM. AchA morapiccha jevo enA pANIno anokho raMga jiMdagImAM anyatra kyAMya jovA maLyo nathI. sUkAM medAno vacce A laMbavartuLa sarovara jANe dharatImAtAe opala maDheluM ghareNuM paheryuM hoya evuM lAgatuM hatuM. A sarovaranA kinAre eka udyAnamAM bhojana mATe mukAma karyA pachI, basamAM kenTarabarInAM medAno pasAra karIne rAtre ame krAisTacarcanI hoTelamAM AvI pahoMcyA. AkhA divasanA pravAsanA thAke amane tvarita nidrAdhIna karI dIdhA. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-3) 346 : pravAsa-darzana

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46 navA varSanI bheTa (phijI) mArA mitra zrI mahendrabhAI jI. mahetAnI bhalAmaNathI huM phijInA pATanagara suvAmAM tyAMnA jhaverAtanA vepArI jogiyA javelarsa' nAmanI peDhInA mAlika zrI kAnajIbhAI jogiyAne tyAM Utaryo hato. suvA dakSiNa pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM AveluM, samudrataTathI zobhatuM, nAnuM paNa raLiyAmaNuM nagara che. kAnajIbhAInI sAthe suvA ane tenI AsapAsanA pradezamAM huM pharyo. tyAra pachI suvAnI pAse ullU TApu uparanA korala rIpha (Coral Reef- samudramAM chIcharAM pANI nIce khaDako upara jAmelAM vividha prakAranAM paravALAM) jovA javAno kAryakrama ame vicAryo. kAnajIbhAInA gharathI lagabhaga eka kilomITaranA aMtare samudrakinArethI ullu TApunA pravAsa mATenI sTIma-laoNca roja savAre UpaDe che. ame savAre nava vAge gharethI nIkaLyA, paraMtu niyata samaya karatAM be-traNa miniTa moDA pahoMcyA. sTIma-loMce tyAre laMgara upADI lIdhuM hatuM, eTale amAre ullUno kAryakrama bIjA divasa upara rAkhavo paDyo. kAnajIbhAIe kahyuM, "ullu have AvatI kAle jaIzuM; Aje cAlo, tamane esa.pI.yu. batAvuM.' esa.pI.yu. eTale ?' meM pUchyuM. eTale sAutha pesiphika yunivarsiTI. phijImAM phakta A eka ja yunivarsiTI che ane te esa.pI.yu nA TUMkA nAmathI ja vadhAre jANItI che." navA varSanI bheTa - 347.

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meM kahyuM, "e yunivarsiTI jovAnuM mane jarUra gamaze, kAraNa ke e to amAruM kSetra che. duniyAnI judI judI yunivarsiTIonI mulAkAta levI te mAre rasano viSaya che." ame gADImAM beThA. kAnajIbhAIe kahyuM, "ApaNe dukAna taraphathI gADI laIe. koI agatyanI TapAla AvI hoya to te huM jarA joI lauM." ame temanI dukAna pAse pahoMcyA. gADImAMthI UtaratAM ja eka bhAI maLyA. kAnajIbhAIe emane mAro paricaya karAvatAM kahyuM, "A amArA mahemAna DaoN. ramaNalAla zAha, inDiyAthI pharavA AvyA che. pahelI jAnyuArIe okalenDa javAnA che. huM temane atyAre esa.pI.yu. laI jAuM chuM." kAnajIbhAIe temano paricaya karAvatAM kahyuM, "A zrI... paTela, amArA suvAnA e bahu moTA zrImaMta vepArI che. phijI uparAMta oNsTreliyA ane nyUjhIlenDamAM paNa temano vepAra cAle che." | zrI paTele kahyuM, "kAnajIbhAI, DaoNkTarasAhebane yunivarsiTI batAvavAno lAbha mane Apo. huM atyAre phrI chuM." thoDI AnAkAnI pachI kAnajIbhAIe chevaTe saMmati ApI. mane paNa thayuM ke traNa divasathI roja emano samaya lauM chuM to Aje bhale teo dukAnanuM kAma saMbhALe. zrI paTela sAthe emanI gADImAM huM beTho. temaNe kahyuM, "DaoNkTarasAheba, tamAre moDuM nathI thatuM ne ?' nA, jarAya nahi." to pahelAM ApaNe ghera cA-pANI laIe. pachI esa.pI.yu. joIe." bhale." rastAmAM zrI paTele phijImAM emanA kuTuMbe kevI rIte vasavATa karyo teno rasika itihAsa kahyo. temaNe kahyuM : "ame naDiyAda pAsenA eka gAmanA vatanI. mArA pitAjI ahIM hAthe-page AvelA. phijI eTale AphrikAno pradeza ema samajIne amArI jJAtinA lagabhaga doDhaso mANasa TikiTa kaDhAvIne sTImaramAM beThelA. lagabhaga sATha varSa pahelAMnI A vAta che. badhA abhaNa; gujarAtI bhASA paNa pUrI lakhatAM-vAMcatAM AvaDe nahi; khetI kare. sthiti bahu garIba. jiMdagImAM pahelI vAra muMbaI AvyA ane pahelI vAra sTImaramAM beThA. e divasomAM pAsaporTa ke vIsAnI koI mAthAkUTa nahIM. ghaNA divase sTImara osTreliyAnA siDanI baMdare AvI pahoMcI. amArA vaDIlo badhA gabharu gorA loko sAthe vAto karatAM dhrUje; vAta karavAnuM ja TALe. siDanI aMdara AvyuM eTale kaptAne e jAhera karyuM; paraMtu amArA vaDIloe 348 ka pravAsa-darzana

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siDanInuM nAma jiMdagImAM koI divasa sAMbhaLeluM nahIM. gorA lokonA uccAra judA, eTale teo badhA "siDanI'ne badale "phijI" samajyA. badhA siDanI baMdare UtarI paDyA ! paradezano A pahelavahelo anubhava hato. kyAMthI kyAM javAya tenI gatAgama na hatI. gAmamAM jaI potAnAM oLakhItAMnAM nAma pUche, paraMtu koI maLyAM nahIM." 'daramiyAna sTImara to UpaDI gaI hatI. mAthe poTalAM UMcakI AsapAsa dasa-paMdara mAIlamAM ghaNAM phAMphAM mAryA. pachI temane samaja paDI ke teo bIjI koI jagyAe AvI pahoMcyA che. phijI to haju ahIMthI lagabhaga be hajAra mAIla dUra sTImaramAM javAnuM che. te mATe pharI bIjI TikiTa kaDhAvavI paDe, paraMtu potAnA gujarAna mATe paNa koInI pAse pUratA paisA nahotA. eTale badhAne tarata majUrIe lAgI javuM paDyuM. koI jaMgalomAM jhADa kApavA mATe, koI rasto banAvavA mATe, koI makAna bAMdhavA mATe, koI khetaromAM gorA lokone madada karavA mATe kAme lAgI gayA. cAra-cha mahinA khUba kALI majUrI karI. gorA lokonAM mAra ane apamAna sahana karyA. dhIme dhIme paisA bacAvyA ane sTImaranA bhADA jeTalA paisA thayA eTale sTImara pakaDI phijI AvI pahoMcyA. ahIM phijImAM paNa zarUAtamAM bahu kaparI majUrI karavI paDI. paraMtu pahelA vizvayuddha vakhate teo ThIka ThIka paisA kamAyA ane bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate to lAkhopati thaI gayA. ene lIdhe Aje paNa paiseTake bahu sukhI chIe; joke ame khAsa kaMI bhaNyA nathI.' zrI paTele rastAmAM potAnI moTI moTI dukAno ane mAlikInAM gharo batAvyAM. tyAra pachI thoDe dUra AvelA temanA baMgale ame pahoMcyA. cA-pANI lIdhAM. zrI paTele potAnA kuTuMbanA sabhyono mane paricaya karAvyo ane cArapAMca mitrone phona karI jaNAvyuM ke, "inDiyAthI DaoNkTara ramaNabhAI AvyA che, anukULatA hoya to sADAbAra vAgye dukAne Avajo." zrI paTela sAthe esa.pI.yu. javA huM nIkaLyo. rastAmAM emanI sAthe zI vAta karavI te huM vicArato hato. tyAM to emaNe ja mane pUchyuM, "inDiyAmAM Ayurvedika davAo kaI kaMpanInI sArI Ave che ?' meM kahyuM, "ghaNI kaMpanIonI Ave che. paraMtu temAM jhaMDu, dhUpArezvara, caraka, vaidyanAtha vagerenI davAo sArI gaNAya che." mane javAba AvaDyo tethI AnaMda thayo. manamAM thayuM ke AvuM thoDuM sAmAnya jJAna hoya to sAruM; aparicita mANasa sAthe prathama mulAkAte mUMgA navA varSanI bheTa ara 349

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besI rahevAno vakhata na Ave. thoDI vAre zrI paTele pharI pAcho prazna karyo, "Ayurvedika davAo sArI ke elopathInI ? tamAro zo anubhava che ?' keTalAka rogomAM Ayurvedaka davAo bahu aksIra hoya che. vaLI, emAM mAphaka na Ave topaNa nukasAna khAsa hotuM nathI. paraMtu te davAo dhIraja mAgI le che, kAraNa ke teno korsa lAMbo hoya che. keTalAka rogomAM elopathInI davAo bahu akasIra hoya che. tenI asara tarata ja thAya che ane roga maTI jAya che." Ama vAto karatAM karatAM ame sAutha pesephika yunivarsiTImAM pahoMcyA. yunivarsiTInuM kaeNmpasa UMcAIvALA zAMta ramaNIya vistAramAM AveluM che. A kempasa dhIme dhIme vikasI rahyuM che. navAM navAM makAno taiyAra thaI rahyAM che ane navA navA vibhAgo khUlI rahyA che. zrI paTele kahyuM, "amArI yunivarsiTImAM vidyArthIo ochA che, paraMtu rAjyanI eka ja yunivarsiTI hovAthI paisAnI koI takalIpha nathI. sAro pagAra ApI ame videzamAMthI paNa adhyApako lAvIe chIe. keTalAka adhyApako InDiyAthI paNa AvyA che. joke amArA chokarAo ahIM bahu bhaNatA nathI, ane je sAruM bhaNe che te nyUjhIlenDa, osTreliyA ke InDiyA bhaNavA jAya che." yunivarsiTInA kempasamAM ghaNA vidyArthIone sigareTa pItAM joI meM kahyuM, "A sigareTanuM vyasana duniyAnI ghaNI yunivarsiTIonA kempasamAM pahoMcI gayuM che.' zrI paTele kahyuM, "amAre tyAM sigareTa e koI moTI vAta nathI. amArI yunivarsiTI to ethI paNa AgaLa vadhelI che. amArI yunivarsiTIe pote ja cA-pANInI kenTIna sAthe dArUno bAra paNa cAlu karelo. vidyArthIo ane adhyApako vargamAMthI chUTIne dArU pIe, keTalAka vidyArthIo to ghera AvI sIdhA bAramAM dAkhala thAya. mitro sAthe dArU pIdhA kare ane tyAMthI sIdhA ghera pAchA jAya. ahIM dArUnA nazAnA kAraNe keTalIka vakhata vidyArthIonAM judAM judAM jUthanI vacce mArAmArIo paNa thaI che. yunivarsiTIe A tophAnone kAraNe hamaNAM dArUno bAra baMdha karI dIdho che." ' kahyuM, 'duniyAnI ghaNI yunivarsiTIonA vidyArthIo ghare ke bahAra madyapAna karatA hoya che. tyAM e asvAbhAvika ke anaitika manAtuM nathI. alabatta, yunivarsiTInA kempasamAM yunivarsiTI taraphathI dArUno bAra cAlato hoya evuM javalle ja jovA maLe che. bhAratamAM kAyadAthI dArUbaMdhI karavAmAM AvI che evI vAta ghaNA videzIone navAI bharelI lAge che." 350 = pravAsa-darzana

Page #401
yunivarsiTI joI ame pAchA pharyA. rastAmAM zrI paTele pUchyuM, "DaoN. zAha, tame pahelI jAnyuArIe ja oNkalaeNnDa javAnA cho ? navuM varSa phijImAM karo ne !" "nA, jI. mAro kAryakrama badho goThavAI gayelo che. jo ke 31mIe rAtre bAra vAge navuM varSa phijImAM UjavIza ane pahelIe savAre jaIza." "okalenDa pharavA mATe ke kaMI kAma mATe ?' basa, pharavA mATe." "kyAM UtaravAnA cho ?' "TrAvela loja nAmanI hoTelamAM meM rijharvezana karAveluM che." hoTelamAM zA mATe Utaro cho ? ApaNuM ghara tyAM che. mAro nAno dIkaro tyAM rahe che. tyAM tame Utarajo. ApaNe oNphise pahoMcIe eTale tarata huM phona karI daIza. e tamane eraporTa para levA Avaze. tamane oNkalaeNnDamAM badhe pheravaze." nyUjhIlenDanA pATanagara oNkalaeNnDamAM huM pahelI vAra jato hato, eTale zrI paTelanI A udAra AtithyabhAvanAthI AnaMdita thaI gayo. videzamAM AvI keTalIka sagavaDa meLavavA mATe keTalIka vAra to bhalAmaNapatro ekaThA karavA paDatA hoya che. tene badala ATalA alpa paricaye zrI paTele sAmethI mAre mATe karelI A darakhAsta mane AvakAradAyaka lAgI. ame zrI paTelanI oNphise pahoMcyA. bahAra taDakAmAM pharIne AvyA hatA eTale erakaMDizanDa oNphisamAM besatAM ThaMDaka anubhavI. amArA mATe ThaMDAM pINAM AvyAM. daramiyAna zrI paTele oNkalaeNnDa sIdho naMbara joDIne potAnA dIkarAne pahelI jAnyuArInI mArI phlAITanI ane eNrapaoNrTa upara levA AvavAnI sUcanA jaNAvI dIdhI. e mATe meM emano AbhAra mAnyo. tyAra pachI zrI paTele bahAra beThelA eka bhAIne bolAvyA. AvIne temaNe mane eka phAIla hAthamAM ApI ane kahyuM, "mane chAtImAM bahu bhAra lAge che, paNa pANI pIuM to sAruM lAge che. koIka vAra hAtha-paga kheMcAya che ane thAka bahu lAge che. mane tarata samaja na paDI ke A bhAI potAnA daradanI A badhI vAta mane zA mATe kare che ? phAIla jotAM jaNAyuM ke e judA judA dAktarI riporTanI phAIla che. mane vahema paDyo ke teo mane meDikala DaoNkTara to nahi samajatA hoya ?! meM temane kahyuM, "bhAI, huM dAktaranathI. A mATe tame koI navA varSanI bheTa - 351

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dAktaranI salAha lo." eTalAmAM zrI paTelano moTo dIkaro AvI pahoMcyo. eNe paNa mArA hAthamAM phAIla mUkIne kahyuM, "mane khAvAnuM pacatuM nathI. divasanA AThadasa vakhata ToyaleTa javuM paDe che." meM ene paNa kahyuM, "bhAI, huM pIeca.DI. DaoNkTara chuM, meDikala DaoNkTara nathI.' tyAM zrI paTele vacce ja kahyuM, "DaoNkTarasAheba, tame pIeca.DI.nA DaoNkTara ho ke homiyopathInA, tenI amane bahu paMcAta nathI. amAre ahIM phijImAM to DaoNkTara eTale DaoNkTara. tame davA barAbara lakhI Apo eTale basa. tamArI je kaMI phI haze te jarUra ApIzuM. te mATe bephikara rahejo." meM vAraMvAra spaSTatA karI, paraMtu mArI vAta temane gaLe UtarI nahIM. balba huM IrAdApUrvaka dAktarI tapAsa karavAnuM TALuM chuM tevo temane vahema paDavA lAgyo. haju bIjA traNa jaNa potAnI meDikala phAIla laIne mArI rAha jotA beThA hatA ! paraMtu meM temane AgrahapUrvaka samajAvI vidAya karyA. mArI A vAtathI zrI paTela nirAza thaI gayA. temanA utsAhamAM thoDI maMdatA AvI gaI. muMbaImAM kaI kaI haoNspiTalo sArI che, tathA keTalAMka oNparezana mATe kayA DaoNkTara sArA che e viSe emaNe pUchelA praznonA, alabatta, meM AvaDyA evA javAba ApyA, kAraNa ke tema na karavAmAM sAmAnya saujanyano abhAva temane kadAca jaNAya. Ama tema thoDI vAto cAlI. zrI paTele pUchyuM, "DaoNkTara sAheba, oNkalaeNnDa javA mATe tamArI pAse sAmAna keTalo haze ?' eka baeNga ane eka eTecI. lagabhaga bAreka kilo. tamArA dIkarA mATe kaMI mokalavuM hoya to jarUra Apajo." nirAzAthI ThaMDA paDI gayelA vAtAvaraNamAM uSmA ANavA meM dAkSiNya dAkhavyuM. basa, eTalA mATe ja tamane pUchyuM. eka boksa tamArI sAthe mokalavAnuM che." jarU2. mane bahu AnaMda thaze. zAnuM boksa ?' eka moTo reDiyo-seTa che. mArA dIkarA mATe navA varSanI bheTa che. paraMtu tame okalenDamAM kasTamsamAM pahelethI reDiyo Dikalera karatA nahIM. jo ema ne ema nIkaLI jAya to ThIka, ane jo ceka thAya to tenI DyUTI mAro 352 49 pravAsa-darzana

Page #403
dIkaro bharI deze." - "to InDiyana TUrisTa tarIke jAuM chuM. mArAthI evI rIte reDiyo laI javAya ? ane tyAM AvI rIte ApI zakAya ?' tenI tame phikara nahIM karatA. amAre badhe oLakhANa che. mAro dIkaro kasTamsamAM badhuM patAvI deze." huM vimAsaNamAM paDyo. AvI rIte koInAM saMpetarAM laI javAthI videzapravAsamAM aNadhArI muzkelI AvatI hoya che evI keTalIka vAto sAMbhaLelI che. koIka vAra mokalanAre temAM bIjI ja koI vastu saMtADI hoya che. huM mUjhavaNa anubhavavA lAgyo. eka bAju emano dIkaro eraporTa upara levA Ave, ghare utAre, okalenDamAM badhe pherave, ane bIjI bAju emanuM eka saMpetaruM laI javAnI mAre "nA" pADavI paDe evI sthiti thaI. meM tvarita nirNaya karI lIdho ane hiMmatapUrvaka kahyuM, "tamAro reDiyo huM nahi laI jaI zakuM to te mATe mane mApha karazo. mane kasTamsamAM khoTuM bolavAnuM AvaDaze nahi ane gamaze nahi. mATe bIjI koI cIjavastu ApavI hoya to jarUra Apo ke jemAM kasTamsanI dRSTie koI muzkelI na paDe." mArA zabdonI asara zrI paTelanA gaMbhIra banatA jatA caherA para joI zakAtI hatI. emaNe kahyuM, "yUTI-penalTI bacAvavA mATe to ame A badhuM tamArA mATe karIe chIe. oNkalaeNnDamAM zaherathI eNrapaoNrTa keTaluM badhuM dUra che tenI tamane khabara che ? TaeNksInA keTalA badhA DaoNlara thAya che ! vaLI, tyAM hoTelo keTalI badhI moMghI che tenI tamane kyAM khabara che ? ATalA ochA paricaye ame tamArA mATe ATalI badhI sagavaDa karIe ane tame amAruM ATaluM nAnuM sarakhuM kAma na karo ?' bolatAM bolatAM zrI paTelanA avAjamAMthI saumyatA krame krame adazya thatI jatI hatI. huM mauna rahyo. reDiyo laI javAnI mArI saMmati nathI tema samajatAM zrI paTele tarata oNkalaeNnDa pharIthI phona joDyo ane dIkarAne kahyuM, "DaoNkTara reDiyo laI AvavAnI nA pADe che, mATe have tAre eNrapaoNrTa para AvavAnI jarUra nathI. teo hoTelamAM Utaraze.' mArA InakArano ATalo tvarita ane kaDaka pratyAghAta paDaze tevI mane kalpanA na hatI, paraMtu paristhitie je rIte palaTo lIdho tethI ekaMdare meM rAhata anubhavI. tarata huM Ubho thaI gayo. temanI bhAvazUnya vidAya lIdhI. temanA ke temanA dIkarAnA caherA para dAkSiNya khAtara kRtrima smita paNa na hatuM. navA varSanI bheTa rU 353

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Avajo" ke "bhale' jevA aupacArika zabdo paNa uccArAyA nahIM. huM tarata tyAMthI kAnajIbhAInI dukAne pahoMcI gayo. badhI vAta karI. kAnajIbhAIe kahyuM, "tame je karyuM te sAruM karyuM. kadAca tame zaramamAM rahIne hA pADI hota topaNa huM tamane reDiyo-seTa laI javA na deta. tamArA gayA pachI kaMIka bahAnuM kADhI emane ghera pAcho mokalata. e laI javAmAM tame phasAI jAo. kadAca jelamAM besavAno paNa vAro Ave. navA varSanI tamane barAbara bheTa maLI jAya. kAnajIbhAInI vAta sAMbhaLI huM camakyo. vaLI emaNe kahyuM, - "jyAM kasTamsanA kAyadA bahu kaDaka hoya che evA dezomAM to eNraporTa upara koIka ajANyA sahapravAsIne eno sAmAna UMcakavAmAM madada karavAno viveka paNa na karavo joIe. aMdara kaMIka gerakAyade chupAvyuM hoya to ApaNe phasAI jaIe. eve vakhate to evA mANaso potAno sAmAna che ema kabUla paNa na kare." kAnajIbhAInI vAta sAcI hatI. mane bairutanA eNrapaoNrTano eka prasaMga tarata yAda Avyo. eka vayovRddha yuropiyana sannArIne vajanadAra baeNga UMcakavAmAM meM madada karI tyAre pharaja paranA eka oNphisaranI najara paDatAM teNe tarata mArA hAthamAMthI baeNga laIne e sannArInA hAthamAM pAchI soMpI dIdhI hatI. e mahilAe potAnI baeNgamAM dANacorInI koI cIjavastu nahi ja saMtADI ho, paraMtu pravAsIoe AvI bAbatamAM sAvadha rahevuM ISTa che ema samajIne adhikArIe te pramANe karyuM hatuM. kAnajIbhAInI vAtanI tarata mane pratIti thaI. emaNe ApelI salAhathI suvAmAM videza pravAsano eka judo ja pATha mane zIkhavA maLyo. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-1) 354 gaka pravAsa-darzana

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47 ulu (phijI) 1977nA DisembaramAM phijInA pravAse huM gayo tyAre enA pATanagara suvAmAM tyAMnA jhaverAtanA vepArI zrI kAnajIbhAI jogiyAne tyAM mArA mitra zrI mahendrabhAI mahetAnI bhalAmaNathI rahyo hato. eka divasa kAnajIbhAIe mAre mATe ullU TApu pAse samudramAM paravALAM (Coral Reef) jovAnA kAryakramanuM Ayojana karyuM hatuM. kAmakAjano cAlu divasa hovAthI dukAna choDIne kAnajIbhAI sAthe AvI zake ema nahotA, paNa boTa para mUkavA ane levA teo AvavAnA hatA. nakkI thatAM bIje divase savAre ame samudrakinAre DaoNka para veLAsara pahoMcI gayA. ullU javA mATe traNa judI judI kaMpanInI sTIma-laoNca UpaDatI hatI. dareka sTIma-laoNcanA karmacArIo potapotAnA daravAjA pAse UbhA UbhA pravAsIone potAnI kaMpanImAM joDAvA mATe jorajorathI anurodha karI rahyA hatA. kAnajIbhAInI bhalAmaNathI eka laoNcanI TikiTa meM lIdhI. be phijiyana yuvako AvI jAherAta karavA sAthe TikiTa ApavAnuM kAma paNa karatA hatA. ane be phijiyana yuvatIo sahelANIone laoNcamAM laI jaI besADavAnuM kAma karatI hatI. laoNcamAM dAkhala thaI huM mArI jagyAe beTho. samaya thayo eTale kaMpanIno yuniphorma paherelA e cAre karmacArIo laoNcamAM AvyA. teoe loMcamAM dAkhala thavA mATenI pagathiyAnI nAnI sIDI UMcakIne aMdara kheMcI lIdhI. laMgara upADyuM. tyAra pachI laoNcanA kaptAnane ullUjhaH 355

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teo madada karavA lAgyA. hone vAgyuM ane laoNMca UpaDI. ame lagabhaga pacIseka pravAsIo hatA. bIjA badhA ja pravAsIo amerikana ke oNsTreliyana hatA. bhAratIya pravAsI tarIke phakta huM ekalo ja hato. AkAza svaccha hatuM. samudranA nIlA raMganAM pANI zAMta hatAM. havA cittane prasannatAthI bharI de evI hatI. lAMca AgaLa vadhatAM suvAnA kinArAnI hariyALI vanarAji dUra dUra khasatI hatI. vAtAvaraNa utsAhaka hatuM. TUranA eka phijiyana karmacArIe gAIDa tarIke mAIka upara saunuM svAgata karyuM ane phijIno paricaya Apavo zarU karyo. pRthvInA dakSiNa goLArdhamAM, dakSiNa pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM traNasothI vadhu TApuomAM phijInuM rASTra patharAyeluM che. osTreliyAnI agni dizAmAM, 1960 mAIla dUra AvelA A rASTranuM eTalA mATe sattAvAra nAma "phijI AIlaeNnvasa" (Fuji Islands) che, paraMtu lokomAM te phakta "phijI' tarIke ja jANItuM che. A traNaso TApuomAM mukhya be moTA TApuo che. ekanuM nAma che vitI levuM ane bIjAnuM nAma che "vanavA levuM "levuM' eTale bahu "vitI' eTale DuMgaro ane "vanavA" eTale sapATa medAno. "vitI levuM" eTale jyAM pahADo vadhAre che evo TApu. phijInAM mukhya zahero suvA, nAMdI, laTakA, bA, sigAToka vagere vitI levuMmAM AvelA che. A TApumAM vacce parvato che ane cAre bAju pharate dariyAkinAre sapATa jagyA che. aMgrejoe potAnA zAsanakALa daramiyAna potAnAM saMsthAnomAM ghaNe ThekANe sthaLonAM nAma potAne uccAratAM phAve evI rIte badalAvyAM. e rIte vitI'ne teo phijI' tarIke oLakhavA lAgyA; ane e ja nAma Aja divasa sudhI rUDha thayeluM che. jApAna uttara goLArdhamAM pUrva dizAmAM cheDe Avelo deza che. eTale ApaNe jApAnane UgatA sUryanA deza tarIke oLakhIe chIe. (jApAnane rASTradhvaja paNa enuM ja pratIka che). paraMtu samayanI sApekSa dRSTie kahevuM hoya to kahI zakAya ke jApAnamAM sUryodaya thAya che tenI pahelAM dakSiNa goLArdhamAM phijImAM sUryodaya thAya che, kAraNa ke phijI 180 rekhAMza para AveluM che. AMtararASTriya samayarekhA (International Date Line) barAbara phijInI pUrva bAjumAMthI pasAra thAya che. phijIno paricaya apAyo tyAra pachI thoDI vAramAM to saMgItanA sUra cAlu thayA. be phijiyana yuvaka ane be yuvatI potAnA asala phijI pozAkamAM sajja thaIne badhAMnI vacce AvyAM. phijiyana loko khAsa prasaMge potAno je 3paka = pravAsa-darzana

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phijiyana Dhabano pozAka pahere che temAM puruSono pozAka dhyAna kheMce evuM hoya che. teo zarTa, koTa ane TAI pahere che. paraMtu penTane badale kamare trikoNa AkAranuM jhAlaravALuM vastra lapeTe che. ghUMTaNathI nIce teonA paga ughADA rahe che. temanA kamaranA vastrano trikoNa AkArano cheDo AgaLa be ghUMTaNanI vacce laTakato rahe che. skaoNTalaeNnDanA skaoNTiza loko khAsa prasaMge penTane badale kilTa' (Kilt) pahere che tevI rIte phijiyana loko paNa kilTane maLatuM Ave evuM viziSTa prakAranuM ane mApanuM raMgaberaMgI DijhAInavALuM vastra pahere che. phijiyana yuvaka-yuvatIoe potAnA caherA para mahorAM paherelAM hatAM. hAthe pAuDara ane raMganA kalAtmaka lapeDA karyA hatA. emAM baMne yuvakoe khabhe giTAra ane Drama laTakAvyAM hatAM. baMne yuvatIo nRtya karatI hatI. cAre bulaMda svare gAtAM hatAM. sAthe giTAra ane Drama paNa jorazorathI vAgatAM hatAM. koI vyavasAyI kalAkAra hoya tevAM teo lAgyAM. Adhunika pAzcAtya DhabanAM jhamakabharyA gIto gavAtAM hatAM. teoe keTalAka phijiyana lokagIto paNa gAyAM. amerikA ane osTreliyAnA pravAsIo hovAthI tyAMnAM mazahUra thayelAM gIto gAyAM. pachI jaNAvyuM ke bhAratatI AvelA ApaNA mAnavaMtA mahemAna mATe mazahUra bhAratIya philmI gIto paNa ame gAIzuM. ema kahIne "AvArA huM.." ane evAM bIjAM gIto teoe gAyAM. Ama eka kalAka sudhI ame laoNcamAM madhura nAda dvArA karmotsava ane bahAra jaladhijalanA taraMgo ane AsapAsanA TApuonI hariyALInAM dRzyo dvArA nayanotsava ema sAthe sAthe mANyo. saMgIta pUruM thayuM eTale amane cA-nAsto ApavAmAM Avyo. cAre gAIDa bera2nI TopI ane eprana paherIne amArA saunI pAse AvIne kone cA ke kophI, TosTa baTa2, biskiTa vagere joIe che te pramANe taiyArI karIne ApavA lAgyAM. koIkanA pUchavAthI khabara paDI ke mahorAM paherI gAna-nRtya karanAra kalAkAro te amArAM A gAIDa yuvako ane yuvatIo ja hatAM. have te baTalaranA svarUpe hatAM. temanI sarasa kAmagIrInI ame prazaMsA karI. phijiyana loko moTA, pahoLA ane bharAvadAra caherAvALA che. zarIre teo UMcA ane kadAvara che. ghaNAkharA pahoLA pagale cAle che. temanA mAthAnA vALa sAva TUMkA ane vAMkaDiyA hoya che. AthI prathama dRSTie koIne ema lAge ke teo Aphrikana haze ! paraMtu phijiyana loko Aphrikana jevA ane jeTalA zyAma raMganA nathI. phijiyana loko gherA ghauvarNA che. temanI cAmaDI bhAratIya loko jevI che. ghaNAnA vALa kALAne badale saheja ratAza paDatA bhUkharA che. evA vALa ane caherAnI AkRti uparathI teo bhAratIya loko ullU kara 357

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karatAM judA tarI Ave che. ItihAsa ema kahe che ke baso varSa pahelAM yuropathI eziyAnI zodhasaphare nIkaLelA dariyAkheDuo potAnI sAthe je Aphrikana gulAmone laI AvelA, temAMnA keTalAkane majUrI karAvavA mATe A TApuomAM vasAvavAmAM AvelA, teonA A vaMzajo che. eTale temanI mukhAkRti Aphrikana lokone maLatI Ave che. paraMtu temanI cAmaDInA raMganI kALAza dhIme dhIme ochI thaI gaI che. phijiyana loko svabhAve maLatAvaDA ane AnaMdI che. khAvuM-pIvuM tathA gAvuM-nAcavuM e emanI priya pravRtti che. teo khaDatala ane mahenatu che, paNa svabhAve mojIlA che. keTalAya phijiyano bhAratIya lokone tyAM nokarI kare che. teo phijInI chAMTavALI hiMdI bhASA sArI rIte bolI zake che. phijInA sthAnika AnuvaMzika loko phijiyana che. paraMtu teo laghumatImAM che. bahumatImAM bhAratIya loko che. ahIM zeraDInAM khetaromAM majUrI karavA mATe bhAratathI abhaNa garIba bihArI lokone ane gujarAtI lokone aMgrejo laI AvyA. pAchaLathI dakSiNa bhAratanA keTalAka loko paNa AvIne vasyA. gujarAtI loko muMbaInA baMdare thaI sTImaramAM besIne ahIM AvyA hatA eTale bihArI loko gujarAtIone "bambaIyA' tarIke Aja divasa sudhI oLakhatA AvyA che. phijImAM ghaNAkharA phijiyana loko nAnA nAnA TApuomAM rahe che. evA TApuomAM vasatA phijiyano garIba ane alpazikSita che. AthI ahIM teone mATe "gAmaDiya'nA paryAya jevo zabda Islander (TApuvAsI) vaparAya che. bhAratIya loko phijiyana loko mATe "kAItIkI' zabda prayoje che. lagabhaga agiyAra vAge amArI laoNMca pahoMcI nakumAruriko nAmanA TApunA kinAre. ahIM eka kalAkano amane samaya ApavAmAM Avyo. paNa TApu khUba nAno hato ane bajAra ke bagIcA jevuM kazuM ja nahotuM. eTale eka kalAka ahIM karIzuM zuM evo prazna ghaNAne thayo. amArA gAIDe kahyuM, "A TApunA samudramAM khAsa karavA mATe loko Ave che. aDadhA mAIla karatAM paNa ocho lAMbo ane ethI paNa ocho pahoLo evo A TApu naisargika dRSTie gamI jAya evo che. TApu upara ApaNe game tyAM UbhA hoIe, tyAMthI cAre bAjuno samudra dekhAya. A TApunI khAsiyata e che ke eka bAju UMDo samudra che jyAM boTa UbhI rahe che ane bIjI bAju taddana chIcharo samudra che. hajAre ka phUTa lAMbA samudrataTamAM retI zveta, suMvALI, svaccha ane gamI jAya evI hatI. eTale ja A retIne Happy Sands kahe che. samudranuM pANI paNa eTaluM ja nirmaLa ane 358 9 pravAsa-darzana

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chAtIthI vadhAre UMDuM nahi. taratAM na AvaDatuM hoya to paNa nAhavA paDI zakAya. amArA gAIDa yuvaka-yuvatI svimiMga kaoNrcyuma paherI taravA paDyAM. amArAmAMthI paNa keTalAka taravA paDyA. koTyUma na lAvyA hoya to pAsenA resTorAMmAM bhADe maLatuM hatuM. keTalAkanI pANImAM paDavAnI IcchA nahotI, paNa DUbavAnI bIka vinAnA chIcharA pANInI sphaTika jevI nirmaLatAnuM AkarSaNa eTaluM badhuM hatuM ke eka pachI eka ema vadhatAM vadhatAM chevaTe badhAMe pANImAM DUbakI mArI snAna karI tAjhagI ane praphullitatA anubhavI. mAthe komaLa taDako hato. ane pANI hUMphALuM hatuM. eTale patyA pachI koIne nIkaLavAnuM mana thatuM nahotuM. AvA nAnakaDA TApumAM eka kalAka karIzuM zuM evo prazna karanArane have kalAka ocho lAgavA mAMDyo. samaya thayo eTale snAnathI paravArI ame sau sajja thaI laoNcamAM besI gayA. laoNca UpaDI. gAIDe majAkamAM kahyuM, "tamane samudramAM snAna eTalA mATe karAvyuM ke jethI bhUkha barAbara lAge. have ApaNe laMca mATe samudrakinArAnI eka paMcatAraka hoTelamAM jaIzuM. hoTelanuM nAma che "TreDa visa' (Trade Winds) aDadhA kalAkamAM amArI laoNca hoTelanA pAchalA daravAje AvIne aDIne UbhI rahI nadI zaheratI suvAnA dhorI mArga upara samudrakinAre A hoTela evI rIte bAMdhavAmAM AvI che ke enA AgaLanA bhAgamAM enA udyAnanuM pravezadvAra mukhya rastA para paDe. tathA hoTelano pAchaLano bhAga evI rIte bAMdhavAmAM Avyo che ke te pANI upara thoDo bahAra nIkaLe. bAlkanI ke varaMDAmAM beThAM hoIe to nIce pANI dekhAya, jANe koI jahAjamAM na beThAM hoIe ! hoTelamAM ja DokanI vyavasthA rAkhavAmAM AvI che. boTa ke sTImara sIdhI hoTelane aDIne UbhI rahI zake. ethI pravAsIone samudranI sahelagAha karavAnuM kudaratI rIte ja mana thAya. e mATe saMkhyAbaMdha nAnI moTI yAMtrika hoDIonI sagavaDa rAkhavAmAM AvI hatI. lAkaDAMnI vividha suzobhita cIjavastuo, tathA lAkaDAnAM chata ane phloriMgathI bahu ja AkarSaka lAgatI evI A hoTelamAM samudranI bAjue beThAM hoIe to nIce svaccha pANImAM raMgaberaMgI mAchalIo taratI dekhAya. roja keTalAya loko mAchalIne khavaDAvatA hovAthI mAchalIo paNa eTalAmAM ja ghUmyA karatI dekhAya. ahIM samaya kevI rIte pasAra karavo enI koI ciMtA ja nahi. hoTelamAM laMca laI ane laoNcamAM besI upaDyA ullU TApu tarapha. ullUmAM amAre TApu para UtaravAnuM nahotuM. paraMtu TApu Ave te pahelAM samudranA nirmaLa jaLamAM paravALAM (Corals) nuM nirIkSaNa karavAnuM hatuM. ame ullUjhaH 3pa9 - WWW.jainelibrary.org

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TApu najIka AvyA. amArI boTa dhImI paDI. sUcanA maLatAM ane boTamAM taLiye rAkhavAmAM AvelA pAradarzaka kAca pAse pahoMcI gayA. paravALAM jovA mATe boTamAM cAra jagyAe taLiyAmAM moTA laMbacorasa pAradarzaka kAca jaDavAmAM AvyA hatA. dareka kAcanI AsapAsa besavAnI vyavasthA karavAmAM AvI hatI. ame badhA pravAsIo judA judA kAcanI AsapAsa goThavAyA. ullu TApu pAsenuM samudranuM pANI atyaMta svaccha hatuM. sUryanA prakAzamAM temAM vadhu UMDe sudhI joI zakAtuM hatuM. kAcanA taLiyenA pANImAM pharatI nAnImoTI vividha AkAranI ane prakAranI raMgaberaMgI mAchalIo taratI-pharatI dekhAvA lAgI. nIce judA judA AkAranAM paravALAM paNa dekhAyAM. meM agAu benToTA (zrIlaMkA), malindI (keniyA), pattayA (thAIlaeNnDa), moriziyasa vagerenA samudramAM Glassbottom Boat mAMthI AvAM dRzyo nihALyAM hatAM. paraMtu jeo pahelI vAra AvuM dRzya jue te to avazya Azcaryacakita thayA vinA rahe nahi. kAcamAMthI mAchalIo ane paravALAM joyA pachI amane badhAMne sTImaranA uparanA khullA DekamAM laI javAmAM AvyA tyAM ame khurazIomAM goThavAyA. daramiyAna samudranA pANImAMthI traNa vyakti hAthamAM paravALAM laIne sTImaramAM caDI. teoe moDha-mAthe oNksijana mAska paherelo hato. ane zarIre paganAM taLiyAM sudhIno DUbakImArano DAIvarsa (Diver's) sUTa paherelo hato. teo sthAnika vyavasAyI DAIvarsa hoya ema lAgyuM. kAcamAMthI mAtra temanI be AMkho dekhAtI. paravALAM Deka para mUkIne pharI teoe pANImAM DUbakI lagAvI. pAchA thoDI vAre bIjAM paravALAM laI AvyAM. gAIDa yuvatIe aNane samajAvyuM ke paravALAM (pravAla) e paNa eka prakAranA jIvonuM kalevara che. enA judA judA AkAra pramANe enI judI judI jAti gaNavAmAM Ave che. amane sAbaranA ziMgaDA jevA (Stad horn Corals), dAMta-dADha jevA (Tooth Corals), mazarUma jevA (Mushroom Corals), takiyA jevA (Cushion Corals), kAkaDI jevA (Cucumber Corals), bhIMDA jevA (Green Finger Corals), pIMchAM jevA (Fern Corals), namaskAra karatA hoya evI AkRtivALA (Greeting Corals) ema judI judI jAtanAM paravALAMne ghara, dukAna vageremAM kevI kalAtmaka rIte goThavI zakAya te paNa vividha rIte goThavIne batAvyuM. zokhInane rasa paDe evo A viSaya hato. evI kalAtmaka goThavaNInA keTalAka phoTo pADI lIdhA. jyAM taDako paDato hoya evA uSNa ke samazItoSNa pradezamAM AvelA keTalAka samudranA chIcharA pANImAM paravALAnAM jIvaDAM jema maratAM jAya tema 360 = pravAsa-darzana

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temanA zarIramAM rahelA kaeNlziyamano Dhagalo thato jAya che. enA khaDaka baMdhAya che. AvA (Coral ReefInA keTalAMka paravALAMnI aMdara jhINI jhINI mAchalIo hoya che. ane evI mAchalIo paNa paravALAMnI racanA kare che. te batAvatAM gAIDa yuvatIe pAse rAkhelA pANI bharelA vAsaNamAM traNeka moTA paravALAMnA TukaDA karyA to aMdarathI AMgaLInA veDhA karatAM nAnI mAchalIo nIkaLI ane pANImAM taravA lAgI. daramiyAna DAIvarsa be moTI bAladI bharIne dariyAnuM pANI laI AvyA. emAM jAtajAtanI raMgaberaMgI nAnI nAnI mAchalIo hatI. keTalAka zokhIno gharamAM nAnuM kAcanA kabATa jevuM ekveriyama rAkhe che. emAM AvI keTalIka jAtanI mAchalIo rAkhavAmAM Ave che. gAIDe eka nAnI pAMca pUMchaDiyA jevI mAchalI batAvI. e Star Fish kahevAya che. te bahu majabUta hoya che. tenI ekAda pUMchaDI kapAI jAya to te maratI nathI. paNa te pUMchaDI pAchI vadhavA lAge che ane AkhI thaI jAya che. keTalAka paravALAM taDakAmAM sUkavavA mATe mUkavAmAM AvyAM. taDakAnI asarathI lIlA raMganAM paravALAM jAMbalI raMganAM thavA lAgyAM. gAIDe samajAvyuM ke A rIte paravALAM thoDA divasa taDakAmAM sUkavavAmAM Ave to teno raMga badalAya che, te nakkara thatAM jAya che ane vadhu suzobhita AkRti dhAraNa kare che. vaLI te bahu moMghA bhAve vecAya che. keTalAMkamAMthI maMgaLanA naMga banAvAya che. paravALAMno vyavasAya karanAra anubhavI loko A bhInAM paravALAMne roja keTalA pramANamAM taDako ApIne, kevI rIte AkarSaka ane kalAtmaka banAvavA enI khUbI jANatA hoya che. pachI eNe kahyuM, "A badhAM lIlAM bhInAM paravALAM jemane joIe te maphata laI jaI zake che. ghare jaIne tarata sUkavI devAM joIe." ATaluM kahetAMmAM to paravALAM levA mATe paDApaDI thavA lAgI. amArI doTa joIne gAIDa paNa hasI paDI. badhA potAnA sthAne beThA te pachI gAIDe kahyuM, "eTaluM dhyAnamAM rAkhajo ke A paravALAM bahu gaMdhAya che. thoDI vAra pachI tamArA hAtha suMghI jojo. gharamAM paNa e gaMdhAze. sukAyA pachI nahi gaMdhAya. gAIDanI vAta sAcI hatI. paravALA hAthamAM letAM ja hAtha cIkaNA thaI gayA ane vaLI gaMdhAvA lAgyA. eka pachI eka ema ghaNAkharAe paravALAM pAchAM mUkI dIdhAM. keTalAke paDIkAmAM bAMdhI lIdhAM; paNa paDIkAmAM vadhu vakhata raheze to vadhu gaMdhAze ane pachI sarakho raMga ke AkAra dhAraNa nahi kare e mATe dhyAna rAkhavAnI sUcanA gAIDe ApI. vadhelAM paravALAM ane bAladImAM rAkhelI mAchalIo samudranA pANImAM pAchAM padharAvI devAmAM AvyAM. paravALAM jovAno kAryakrama pUro thayo. traNe ullu aMka 301

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DUbakImAru-DAIvara pANImAMthI bahAra AvI boTamAM caDI gayA. temaNe DAIvarano sUTa utAryo tyAre ja amane khabara paDI ke teo koI dhaMdhAdArI DUbakI mAru nahotA, paNa TUranA ja be yuvaka ane eka yuvatI hatAM. ulluthI amArI boTa have suvA tarapha pAchI pharavA lAgI. sAMjano samaya thayo hato. pavana nIkaLyo hato. samudranA taraMgothI vAtAvaraNa AslAdaka banI gayuM hatuM. ene vadhu AlAdaka banAvyuM amArA gAIDa yuvaka-yuvatIoe potAnA nAcagAnathI. have teoe mahorAM ke phijiyana poSAka nahotA paheryA. temaNe kaMpanIno yuniphorma paherI lIdho hato. ucca svare layapUrvaka gIto gAIne teoe ramajhaTa bolAvI dIdhI. amArAmAMthI keTalAka emAM joDAyA paNa kharA. suvAno kinAro dekhAyo eTale nRtyagAna baMdha thayAM. yuvaka-yuvatIo have boTane lAMgaravA mATenI taiyArImAM paDI gayAM. jotajotAmAM to suvAnA dhakkA para boTa lAMgaravAmAM AvI. ame sau boTamAMthI UtaryA. phijiyana yuvaka-yuvatIono AbhAra mAnavA mATe emanI ja bhASAmAM ame kahyuM, binAkA vAkA levu" (Thank you very much) ane "moghe' (Goodbye). bahAra nIkaLyo tyAre zrI kAnajIbhAI mane levA mATe kAra laIne AvI gayA hatA. kAramAM besI ame ghara tarapha ravAnA thayA. AkhA divasano eka sarasa majhAno yAda rahI jAya evo anubhava thayo. meM kAnajIbhAIne kahyuM, "boTanA karmacArIo tAlImabaddha, vinayI ane utsAhI hatA. paraMtu bIjI bAju boTa kaMpanIe sArI karakasara karelI hoya evuM dekhAyuM. AraMbhamAM pracAraka ane TikiTa ApanAra tarIke, pachI gAIDa tarIke, pachI gItanRtyakAra tarIke, pachI baTalara tarIke, pachI svimara tarIke, pachI DAIvara tarIke, pAchA gAyaka tarIke ane chelle helpara tarIke enAM e ja cAra yuvakayuvatIoe kAma karyuM. kAnajIbhAIe sAcuM ja kahyuM, "ahIM phijImAM amAruM arthataMtra nabaLuM che. sTImalA~ca calAvanAra judI judI kaMpanIo vacce ThIka ThIka spardhA rahe che. eTale kaMpanIo AvI karakasara kare to ja emane paravaDe." | dareka deza ke prajAne samaye samaye potAnI AgavI samasyAo rahe che ane te mATe potAnA AgavA upAyo zodhatAM rahevuM paDe che. te vinA astitva TakI na zake. (pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-ra : uttarAlekhana) 392 jhaka pravAsa-darzana

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DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAha jIvana jharamara 1926 pitAzrI cImanalAla amRtalAla zAha, mAtA revAbahena cImanalAla zAha, janmasthaLa : pAdarA, vaDodarA jillo., janma ; trIjI Disembara 1927, kArataka vida 13 1983. 1927 tAlukAnA mukhya gAma pAdarAnA taMdurasta bALakanI spardhAmAM prathama AvavA badala InAma maLyuM. 1930 pAdarAnI zALAmAM bhaNavAnI zarUAta 1937 pAdarAthI muMbaI rahevA AvyA. pharAmajI skulamAM bhaNavAnuM cAlu karyuM. 1941 muMbaImAM bAbu pannAlAla hAIskUlamAM dAkhala thayA. 1942 citrakalAmAM rasa- rAhulakara saranA vargo bharI saphaLatA meLavI. sarakAra dvArA levAtI elImenTarI ane InTaramiDiyeTa banne parIkSAmAM prathama naMbare AvI pAritoSiko meLavyAM. 1943 rASTrIya caLavaLane lagatI patrikAo chUpI rIte ghare ghare pahoMcADavAnA kAryamAM bhAga lIdho. 1944 meTrIkanI parIkSAmAM pharsTa klAsa maLyo. 1945 gaNita ane vijJAnamAM ghaNA sArA mArkasa chatAM senTa jheviyarsa kaoNlejamAM ArTasamAM eDamizana meLavyuM. svapna sArA lekhaka thavAnuM, ghara choDI mahAvIra jaina vidyAlayanI hosTelamAM rahevA gayA. 1946 mahAvIra jaina vidyAlayamAM nibaMdhalekhana, vastRtva spardhA, nATaka lekhana ane abhinayamAM bhAga laI saphaLatA prApta karI. 1947 InTara ArTasamAM pharsTa klAsa, bI.e.mAM gujarAtI ane saMskRtanA viSayo lIdhA. 1948-49 bI.e.mAM gujarAtI ane saMskRtamAM pharsTa klAsa. gujarAtI viSayamAM prathama AvyA. senTa jheviyarsa kolejamAM phelo tarIke nimaNUMka, 48 49 pATaNa jaina hosTelamAM rahevA gayA. 1949 ema.e. gujarAtI viSaya sAthe abhyAsa cAlu, "sAMja vartamAna patramAM patrakAra tarIke kAma karyuM. 1950 M.A.mAM yunivarsiTInI parIkSAmAM First class First AvyA. muMbaI yunivarsiTInAM baLavaMtarAya kalyANarAya ThAkora golDa meDala, kezavalAla harSadarAya dhruva pAritoSika ane jheviyarsa kolejamAM ema.e. ane ema.esa.sI - sarvamAM prathama AvavA badala 'senTa phrAnsisa meDala" malyo. 1951 jUnamAM senTa jheviyarsamAM gujarAtInA adhyApaka tarIke joDAyA. ena.sI.sI. (nezanala keDeTa kora)mAM vidyArthIone lazkarI tAlIma ApavA ophisara tarIke joDAyA. ena.sI.sI.mAM 1951 thI 54 sekanDa lephTanTa, 1954 thI 57 lephaTananTa, 1958 thI 35 kepTana, 1965 thI 70 mejara ane chelle beTeliyana kamAnDanTa ane kempa kamAnDanTa tarIkenI javAbadArI saMbhALI. manISA (soneTa saMpAdana, zrI mInu desAI sAthe - 1951 1952 dhrAMgadhrA nivAsI dIpacaMda tribhovanadAsa zAhanI putrI ane muMbaInI sosAyA kolejanA gujarAtInA adhyApikA tArAbahena zAha sAthe vizALa thayuM. zrI muMbaI jAsUsI ane rASTradroha 49 303

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jaina yuvaka saMghanA membara banyA. 1953 tA. 18 phebruArI 1953, phAgaNa suda pAMcama tArAbahena sAthe lagna. zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghanI kArobArImAM sabhya. "gujarAtI sAhityanuM rekhAdarzana' pro. manasukhalAla jhaverI sAthe 1953. 1954 ena.sI.sI.nA ophisara sAthe himAlayamAM, keTaleka sthaLe pagapALA pravAsa karyo. badarInAtha-kedAranAthanA darzana. 1955 1955 thI jUna eka varSa mATe amadAvAdanI jheviyarsa zarU karavA gujarAtInA adhyApaka tarIke ane ena.sI.sInA ophisara tarIke muMbaInI jheviyarsa koleje mokalyA. "evaresTanuM ArohaNa' pustaka pragaTa thayu. (evaresTanAM romAMcaka sAhasa)nI aitihAsika kathA - 1955. 1956 paDa jUnathI muMbaI AvI gayA. "naLa damayaMtInI kathAno vikAsa' viSaya para pro. manasukhalAla jhaverInA mArgadarzana sAthe kAma zarU, gulAmono muktidAtA (pramukha abrAhama liMkananI jIvanakathA) 1956. 1957 (1) samayasuMdarakRta 'naLa damayaMtI rAsa' pragaTa, pro. manasukhalAla, jhaverI sAthe gujarAtI sAhityanuM rekhAdarzana pragaTa, (2) "zreSTha nibaMdhikAo' - 1957 saMpAdana mInu desAI sAthe 1958 tA. 20 navembara 1958 kArataka suda dasamanA dine putrI zailajAno janma. 1959 muMbaI - senTa jheviyarsa kolejamAM gujarAtI vibhAganA adhyakSa thayA. TI. jI. zAha ane caMcaLabenanA jIvana para AdhArita 'jIvana darpaNa' pragaTa thayuM. 1960 tA. 3 navembara 1990, kArataka suda pUrNimAne divase ! amitAbhano janma, pIeca.DI. nI thisIsa taiyAra karI yuni.ne mokalI, pIeca.DI. nI DIgrI maLI, zrI bacubhAI rAvatanI preraNAthI 'uttara dhruvanI zodha saphara'nI lekhamALA kumAra' mAsikamAM zarU. 1961 upAdhyAya yazovijayajI kRta "jaMbusvAmI rAsa' pragaTa thayo. 1962 "gujarAtI sAhitya sabhA' taraphathI "1962nuM graMthastha vAlmaya' - pustakonuM avalokana - zarU. 1963 21, devaprakAza, copATI rahevA gayA., muMbaI yunivarsiTImAM pIeca.DI.nA mArgadarzaka nimAyA. pAMca vidyArthIo mArgadarzana mATe rajisTara thayA, adhyAtma prasAraka maMDaLanA maMtrI banyA, sarayUbahena mahetA Ph.D. mATe rajIsTara thayA, sarasvatIcaMdra' bhAga-1 pahelA bhAgano pAThya saMkSepa pragaTa thayo. 1965 "kuvalayamALA' udyotanasUrikRta prAkRta mahAkathAnuM saMzodhana saMpAdana - 1965. 1966 196ranuM graMthastha vAlmaya' pragaTa thayuM, kumAra mAsikamAM lakhAyelA ekAMkI zyAma raMga samIpe' nATikA saMgraha pragaTa thayo. 1967 jApAnano pravAsa, zrI yehAna amATAnA AmaMtraNathI bauddha dharmanI saMsthA mATe vyAkhyAna ApavA gayA. 1968 jApAna, amerikA ane malayeziyAno pravAsa. 1970 senTa jheviyarsa kolejamAMthI chUTA thayA. muMbaI yunivarsiTImAM gujarAtI vibhAganA adhyakSa tarIke joDAyA., 1970mAM madrAsamAM, madrAsa yunivarsiTImAM tAmila mahAgraMtha "tirukurala' vize aMgrejImAM vyAkhyAna ApyuM, seminAramAM bhAga lIdho, "akhila bhAratIya tirukurala saMzodhana kendranI sthApanA thaI. ramaNabhAInI upAdhyakSa tarIke varaNI thaI. yuropa ane sIMgAporano pravAsa. 364 4 pravAsa-darzana

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1971 AcArya buddhisAgarajIe sthApelI saMsthA, adhyAtma prasAraka maMDaLanA pramukha tarIke varaNI. 1972 zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha saMcAlita paryuSaNa vyAkhyAna mALAnA pramukha tarIke pasaMdagI, "evaresTanA ArohaNanI bIjI AvRtti pragaTa thaI. 1973 14mI Disembara - tArAbenanA pitAzrI zrI dIpacaMdabhAI tri. zAhano svargavAsa. 1974 bhagavAna mahAvIranA pacIsomA nirmANa mahotsava nimitte pUrva AphrikAmAM keniyAmAM mombAsA saMghanA AmaMtraNathI vyAkhyAno ApavA tArAbena sAthe gayA. keniyAnA mahattvanA zahero nAyarobI, thIma, elDIreTa, kisama uparAMta TAnjhAniyAmAM dAresalAma, TAMgA vagere sthaLe jainadharma, bhagavAna mahAvIra para vaktavyo ApyA. Jainism and Shraman Bhagawan Mahavir pustaka pragaTa thayuM. IthopiyAno pravAsa. 1975 pU. mAtuzrI revAbAno svargavAsa, poSa suda 7 - vi.saM. 2021. 1976 zrIlaMkAno pravAsa., "narasiMha pUrvenuM sAhitya' - jAnyuArI 1976, jainadharma - bIjI AvRtti - paricaya TrasTa, jainadharma - marAThI AvRtti paricaya TrasTa. 1977 ci. zailajA InTara ATarsanI parIkSAmAM muMbaI yunivarsiTImAM pahelI AvI, mahAvIra jaina vidyAlaya yojita "jaina sAhitya samAroha' pahelAM ke. kA. zAstrInA pramukhapade muMbaImAM yojAyo. Ayojana ramaNabhAIe karyuM, osTreliyA-sIDanImAM P.E.N. nI InTaranezanala konpharansamAM bhAratanA pratinidhi tarIke gayA. vaktavya ApyuM., hoMgakoMga, sIMgApora gayA., U.K.mAM caMdariyA phAunDezananA adhyakSa zrI devacaMdabhAI caMdariyAnA AmaMtraNathI yu.ke.mAM jainadharma ane gujarAtI sAhitya para vyAkhyAno ApavA tArAbena ane putrI zailajA sAthe be mahinA mATe gayA. U.K. uparAMta yuropamAM jude jude sthaLe vyAkhyAno ApyA. sAthe sAthe phrAnsa, ITalI, osTrIyA, nedharalenDa, beljiyama, svIjharalenDa vagere dezono pravAsa karyo, jaina dharma - hiMdI - AvRtti - paricaya TrasTa bahAra paDI. 1978 osTreliyA, nyujhIlenDa, phIjI, hoMgakoMga, InDoneziyA, phIlIpAInsa, sAutha koriyA, thAIlenDano pravAsa. 1979 Buddhism An Introduction, samayasudaMra', "paDIlehA", "ApaNAM phAgu kAvyo' - pragaTa thayAM, "jaina sAhitya samAroha' bIjo - mahuvAmAM zrI bhAyANIsAhebanA pramukhapade mahuvAmAM thayo, sAutha amerikA - brAjhIlamAM "rIo DI jAneromAM bharAyelI P.E.N. International Conference'mAM bhAratanA pratinidhi tarIke patipatnI bannee bhAga lIdho, temAM vaktavya ApyuM., brAjhilanA judA judA zahero - brAjhilIyA, sAvo- pAulo uparAMta TrInIDADa, panAmA, kurAsAva, ArjenTInA, peru vagere joyA. perumAM macchupIcchamAM InkA saMskRtinA avazeSa joyA, pAchA pharatA zikAgo, nyuyorka vagere amerikAmAM keTaleka sthaLe gayA. 1980 raziyAno pravAsa, 1. samaya suMdarakRta "thAvasyA sutariSi copAI' 2. nignava vAda 3. naLa damayaMtInI kathAno vikAsa. 4. naLa damayaMtI prabaMdha (guNAvinaya kRta), 5. hemacaMdrAcArya, 9. uttara dhruvanI zodha saphara pragaTa thayAM. jaina sAhitya samAroha 3 suratamAM thayo. 1981 copATI-deva prakAzanuM nivAsa sthAna choDI 21-22, rekhA naM. 1mAM rahevA gayA. muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghanA mukhapatra prabuddha jIvananA sahataMtrI banyA., ci. pravAsa-darzana ala 365

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zailajA M.A. with PsychologymAM first class first AvI. muMbaI yuni.no K. T. Telang suvarNacaMdraka maLyo, zrI zaileza mahAdeviyA sAthe bhArata, tibeTa, nepALanI sarahada para 6500 phUTanI UMcAIe nArAyaNa svAmIe sthApelo nArAyaNa Azrama jovA gayA, rahyA, tyAM svAmI tadrupAnaMdajInI mulAkAta thaI. AlmoDA najIka khAlI esTeTamAM navInabhAI ane prasannAbahena sAthe rahyAM ane kausInI jovA gayA. RSivardhanakRta 'nalarAya damayaMtI caritra' phebru-81mAM pragaTa. 1982 zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghanA pramukha zrI cImanalAla cakubhAI zAhano svargavAsa thatA zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghanA pramukha ane prabaddha jIvananA taMtrI. tarIke sarvAnumate pasaMdagI thaI, putrI ci. zailajAnA bhAvanagaranivAsI, muluMDamAM rahetA zrI ramaNIkabhAI jhaveracaMda zAhanA putra cetanabhAI sAthe tA. 21 Disembara 1982nA dine lagna thayA. sonagaDhamAM "jaina sAhitya samArohanuM Ayojana 'kritikA' pustaka pragaTa thayuM. 1983 suratamAM "jaina sAhitya samAroha', pravAsa pustaka pAsaporTanI pAMkhe-bhAga 1, mArca 83mAM AvRtti 2 guNa vinayakRta "dhannAzAlibhadra copAI' Dise. 83mAM pragaTa, 1984 jaina sAhityanA lekhana, saMzodhana ane saMpAdana mATe bhAvanagaranI saMsthA taraphathI upAdhyAya zrI yazovijayajI suvarNacaMdraka zrI zreNikabhAInA haste amadAvAdamAM enAyata thayo, umAzaMkarabhAInA pramukhasthAne - umAzaMkarabhAIe vaktavya Apyu, jaina sAhitya samAroha - kaccha-mAMDavImAM thayo, be laghu rAsa kRtio, "pradeze jayavijayanA', pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 1 AvRtti 3jI dohitrI gArgIno janma 8 sapTembara - 1984mAM thayo, yu.ke.mAM lesTaramAM tyAMnA jaina saMghe ane DaoN. naTubhAI zAhe navA jaina maMdiranA nirmANa mATe onararI DirekTara tarIke AmaMtraNa ApyuM - tyAM maMdiranuM kAma saMbhALyuM. patipatnI bannee yu.ke.nA judA judA sthaLe jainadharma para vyAkhyAno ApyA. 1985 uTho jaina sAhitya samAroha - khaMbhAtamAM thayo, jinatattva bhAga-1, jaina sAhitya samAroha - guccha 1 pragaTa thayo. 1986 jaina sAhitya samAroha - pAlaNapuramAM thayo, moreziyasano pravAsa. 1987 caMdariyA phAunDezananA AmaMtraNathI amerikA ane keneDAmAM ramaNabhAI ane tArAbahene jainadharma para lekTara ApyAM. keneDAmAM vejiTeriyana konpharansamAM vaktavya ApavAnuM AmaMtraNa, jainadharma ane zAkAhAra para vaktavya ApyuM, bauddha dharma mATe puchAyelA savAlonA javAba ApyA., jaina sAhitya samAroha - guccha bIjo pragaTa thayo. jaina sAhitya samAroha - sameta zikharamAM yojAyo., dohitra kaivalyano janma 8 phebruArI 1987nA dine. 1988 muMbaI yunivarsiTInA gujarAtI vibhAganA adhyakSanA padethI be varSa pahelA chUTA thayA, putra amitAbhanA jAmanagara nivAsI zrI nagInabhAI padamazrI zeThanI putrI surabhi sAthe tA. 21 jAnyuArI 1988nA dine lagna thayA, soviyeTa yuniyanano pravAsa - olimpiksa jovA mATe karyo., 10mo sAhitya samAroha - botera jinAlaya - kacchamAM karyo, "mohanalAlajI mahArAja' pustikA eprila 1988, jina tattva bhAga-2 phebruArI 88, "upAdhyAya yazovijayajI' julAI, "prabhAvaka sthaviro' - julAI 89, yu.ke.mAM lesTaramAM nirmANa thayelA jaina maMdiranI pratiSThAmAM bhAga lIdho, yu.ke.mAM keTalAka jaina senTaranI mulAkAta. 1989 sAhitya samAroha cArUpa tIrthamAM pU. munizrI jaMbuvijayajI mahArAjanI 367 4 pravAsa-darzana

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nizrAmAM (pATaNapAse), prabhAvaka sthaviro - bhAga, jinatattva, sAMprata sahaciMtana bhAga 1, Dise. 89, bhAga 2, bhAga 3. 1990 putra amitAbhane kornela yunivarsiTI taraphathI Ph.D.nI DIgrI maLI., tArAbahenanA mAtuzrI dhIrajabena dIpacaMda zAhano trIjI jUna 1990 svargavAsa thayo., vaMdanIya hRdayasparza bhAga-1, mArca-90, "zeTha motIzA' pragaTa thayA., akhila bhAratIya patrakAra pariSadamAM vaktavya ApyuM - dhoLakA. 1991 putra amitAbhane tyAM amerikAmAM bosTana pAse enTana banne jaNa gayAM. tA. 17 mArca 1991, caitra suda 1 - guDI paDavAne dine pautra ci. arcitano janma thayo, zeTha motIzA - bIjA AvRtti - 1991, tAo darzana - 91, prabhAvaka sthaviro - 91mAM pragaTa thayA. 1992 amerikA, yu.ke. ane AIsalenDano pravAsa, abhayabhAI ane maMgalAbahena sAthe AIsalenDano pravAsa, enTanamAM pautrI acirAno 27 navembara 92nA roja janma thayo., jinatattva - bhAga 5, vaMdanIya hRdayasparza bhAga 2, abhiciMtanA - jAnyu. 92 zeTha motIzA, berarathI brigeDiyara jAnyu. 92, prabhAvaka sthaviro okTo. 92 pragaTa thayA. 1993 "tiviheNa vaMdAmi' - mArca 93, "rANakapura tIrtha' - jAnyu. prabhAvaka sthaviro - ogasTa 93, sAMprata sahaciMtana - bhAga-4 sapTembara, 'jinatattva' bhAga 1 - bIjI AvRtti. 1994 12 jaina sAhitya samAroha botera jinAlaya kaccha "sAMprata sahaciMtana bhAga 5, jUna 94, phebruArI 94mAM zrI rAkezabhAI jhaverIe "zrI Atmasiddhi zAstra" para thisisa - mahAnibaMdha - DaoN. ramaNabhAI zAhanA mArgadarzana sAthe lakhavA muMbaI yuni.mAM rajisTara karAvyuM. 1995 13mo jaina sAhitya samAroha - zaMkhe svaramAM, vijayazekhara kRta naladamayaMtI prabaMdha - phebru. 95, Jin Vachan phebruArI 95, bIjI AvRtti ogaSTa 95, sAMprata sahaciMtana phebruArI 95. 1996 pitAzrI cImanabhAIno 100mA varSamAM praveza, 14mAM jaina sAhitya samAroha, godharA - kaccha, "kophyusiyasano nItidharma ogaSTa 96, jina tattva, bhAga-3, phebruArI 96. 1997 15mo jaina sAhitya samAroha, ijipta, grIsa ane turkastAnano pravAsa, sAMprata sahaciMtana bhAga-9, adhyAtma sAra bhAga-1 - 97, osTreliyA - 97, prabhAvaka sthaviro jUna-97. 1998 2/1298nA divase konvokezana - rAkezabhAIne Ph.D.nI DIgrI norve svIDanano pravAsa, abhayabhAI mahetA sAthe, pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga-1nI trIjI AvRtti - mArca 98, pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana (bhAga-2) okTo.-98, sAMprata sahaciMtana bhAga-10. 1999 yunAITeDa Araba emireTasa" dubaI, maskata, zArajahA, abudhAbIno pravAsa, ramaNabhAI, tArAbahena, yuvaka saMghanA pramukha rasikalAla laheracaMda sAthe karyo., jaina zozyala grupa" uparAMta judA judAM ghare - khAsa karIne rajanIbhAI zAha, bharatabhAI zAha, navInabhAI zAha vagerene tyAM AmaMtrito vacce jaina dharma ane sAhitya para pravacano, "maskatamAM dilIpabhAI zAha taraphathI vizeSa sabhAmAM ramaNIkalAla zAhanA pramukhasthAne, gurjara phAgu sAhitya - 99, "sAMprata sahaciMtana' - bhAga-11 me 99, jaina lagna vidhi - bIjI AvRtti - 99, osTreliyA pravAsa-darzana x 367

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nyujhIlenDano pravAsa, pU. rAkezabhAI sAthe sIMgApora, osTreliyA ane nyujhIlenDano pravAsa, sIMgAporanA jaina saMghanA AmaMtraNathI zrotAjano samakSa bannee tArAbena ane ramaNabhAIe vaktavyo ApyA. 2000 21 sapTembara 20OO, bhAdaravA vada 8nA dine pitAzrI pU. cImanalAla amRtalAla zAhano 104 varSanI vaye svargavAsa., Comfort trave - mahAsu khabhAI sAthe TuramAM sAutha AphrikAno pravAsa eka divasa nAyarobI gayA, vIraprabhunAM vacano bhAga-1, jaina dharma - mArca, sAMprata sahaciMtana bhAga-12, sapTembara, adhyAtma sAra bhAga-2 Disembara, vaMdanIya hRdayasparza - jUna. 2001 jaina sAhitya samAroha - mallinAtha, tIrtha, dahANu, vIra prabhunAM vacano - bhAga 1, sAMprata sahaciMtana bhAga-13, adhyAtma sAra bhAga-3, navembara 2001, AcArya vijayazIlacaMdrasUri Ayojita "avadhUta AnaMdadhananI AdhyAtmika zabdacetanA' - mere ghaTa gyAna bhAnu bhayo bhora, saMgoSThi - suratamAM, adhyakSa ane mukhya vaktA tarIke bhAga lIdho - 13 okTo. - 2001, 2002 moTAbhAI jayaMtIbhAInuM 80muM ane ramaNabhAInuM 75muM varSa, zailajAe muluMDamAM - golDana svAnamAM kuTuMba - milana yojyu, ramaNabhAI - tArAbenanA lagnanuM 50muM varSa - mitra mahendrabhAI khUmacaMda ane puSpAbahena sAthe nAgezvara tIrthayAtrA karI, madhyapradezanA mahatvanA digaMbara tIrthonI yAtrA karI, mahendrabhAI ane AzAbahene 50 varSanI khuzAlImAM zaMkhezvara tIrthamAM vikalAMgone sAdhana ApavAno kempa karyo., jinatattva bhAga-7, ogaSTa 2002, prabhAvaka sthaviro - bhAga 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 eka pustakarUpe chApyA, jinatattva - 1 thI 5 bhAga sAthe chApyA - okTo. - 2002. 2003 jAnyuArImAM - jaina sAhitya ane dharmanA lekhana, saMzodhana, saMpAdana mATe zrI bAbulAla amRtalAla cerITebala TrasTa taraphathI samadarzI haribhadrasUri suvarNacaMdraka zrI zreNakabhAI kasturabhAI zeThanA pramukhapade ane zrI bhoLAbhAI paTelanA haste, amadAvAdamAM holamAM apAyo., 17mo jaina sAhitya samAroha, lAyajA kacchamAM yojAyo, "paMDita sukhalAlajI' Disembara -3, "sAMprata sahaciMtana' bhAga-14, okTo., adhyAtmasAra - bhAga-3 navembara. 2004 okTobara 1lIe 21-22, rekhA-1 vAlakezvaranA ghare thI 301, trideva, muluMDa vesTamAM rahevA AvyA. adhyAtma sAra saMpurNa (traNa bhAga bhegA chapAyA - 2004), sAMprata sahaciMtana 15 okTo. - 2004, jina tava bhAga-8, me 2004, jaina dharmanA puSpa guccha, bipinacaMdra kApaDiyA sAthe navembara 2004. 2005 upAdhyAya yazovijayajI kRta jJAna sAra - saMpUrNanuM vimocana 4, mArca - 2005. sAyalA AzramamAM pU. AtmAnaMdajInA haste thayuM, 'vaMdanIya hRdayasparza" sAthe chapAyelA pAMca bhAgamAM eka bhAga umerIne chapAvyo., 2maNabhAIne nabaLAI vadhatI gaI, 22mIe rAtre blekahArTa hospITala, muluMDamAM dAkhala karyA. 23mIe tibiyata sudharI 24mIe brAhma muhUrte samAdhi mRtyu thayuM, amitAbha 24mIe rAtre AvyAM, 25mIe agni saMskAra karyA. 27mIe pATakara holamAM prArthanA sabhA yojAI, temanI pAvana smRtimAM jaina yuvaka saMghe zrI dhanavaMtabhAInA taMtrIpade navembarano prabuddha jIvanano aMka zraddhAMjali aMka tarIke ane jAnyuArI 2006no daLadAra aMka smaraNAMjali aMka tarIke prasiddha karyA. 368 nA pravAsa-darzana

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DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAhanAM pustako ekAMkI saMgraha * zyAma raMga samIpe jIvanacaritra-rekhAcitra-saMsmaraNa eka gulAmono muktidAtA * upAdhyAya zrI yazovijayajI * hemacaMdrAcArya tra zrI mohanalAlajI mahArAja * vaMdanIya hRdayasparza * zeTha motI zAha * prabhAvakasthaviro, bhAga 1 thI 6 % berarathI brigeDiyara * tiviheNa vaMdAmi * paMDita sukhalAlajI pravAsa-zodha-saphara ja evaresTanuM ArohaNa A pradeze jaya-vijayanA osTreliyA ja rANakapura tIrtha * pAsaporTanI pAMkhe * uttaradhruvanI zodha-saphara eka pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana * nyUjhIlenDa jha pAsaporTanI pAMke - bhAga trIjo nibaMdha * sAMprata sahaciMtana, bhAga 1thI 1patra abhiciMtanA sAhitya-vivecana * gujarAtI sAhityanuM rekhAdarzana (anya sAthe) * narasiMha pUrvenuM gujarAtI sAhitya * samayasuMdara * baMgAku-zumi * paDilehA * kritikA 4 1962nuM graMthastha vAlmaya naLa-damayaMtInI kathAno vikAsa* gUrjara phAgusAhitya saMzodhana saMpAdana ja nala-davadaMtI rAsa (samasuMdarakRta) jaMbusvAmI rAsa (yazovijayakRta) kuvalayamALA (udyotanasUrikRta) amRgAvatIcaritra copAI (samayasuMdarakRta) * nala-davadaMtI prabaMdha (guNavinayakRta) ja thAvasyAsuta riSi copAI (samayasuMdarakRta) pravAsa-darzana ka 339

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* nalarAya-davadaMtI caritra (RSivardhanasUrikRta) * dhannA-zAlibhadra copAI (guNavinayakRta) * be laghu rAsakRtio (jJAnasAgarakRta ane kSamAkalyANakRta) * nala-davadaMtI prabaMdha (vijayazekharakRta) dharma-tattvajJAna * jaina dharma (chaThThI AvRtti) * jaina dharma (marAThI AvRtti) * jJAnasAra * jinatattva, bhAga 1thI 8 * kanphyUziyasano nItidharma * prabhunAM vacano-bhAga 1-2 * jaina dharma (hindI AvRtti) * bauddha dharma * Buddhism An Intorduction * Jina Vachana * Shraman Bhagwan Mahavir & Jainism saMpAdana (anya sAthe) * manISA * ciMtanayAtrA * nihnavavAda * tAo darzana saMkSepa * sarasvatIcaMdra, bhAga 1 (pAThyasaMkSepa) *adhyAtmasAra, bhAga 1-2-3 vIra * adhyAtmasAra (saMpUrNa) anuvAda * rAhula sAMkRtyAyana (sAhitya akAdamI, dilhI) * bhAratanI rASTrIya saMskRti (nezanala buka TrasTa, dilhI) prakIrNa * ena. sI. sI. * avagAhana * samayaciMtana * mahattA zrI mRgAvatIzrIjI * jaina sAhitya samAroha, guccha 1-2-3-4 * zrI vijayAnaMdasUri svargArohaNa zatAbdI graMtha * zrI yatIndrasUri dIkSAzatAbdI graMtha * zreSTha nibaMdhikAo * nIrAjanA * jIvanadarpaNa * tattvavicAra ane abhivaMdanA * jaina lagnavidhi 370 * pravAsa-darzana * zabdaloka * akSarA * kavitAlaharI

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Jain Edon International SHRI BOMBAY JAIN YUVAK SANGH SHRI CHIMANLAL CHAKUBHAI SHAH MEMORIAL SPRING LECTURES Z(c)TFIELD a Use o CONTINA DEMOCRATING pIrana vidhAlaya ka mahotsava

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in Education ternati ma pro. jazavaMta zekhaDIvALA pro. jazavaMta zekhaDIvALA (janma : 3-7-1931)no janma vatana kheDA jillAnA peTalAda tAlukAnA zekhaDI gAme. 1950mAM teo meTrika thayA. 1954mAM gujarAtI-ItihAsa viSayo sAthe ma. sa. yunivarsiTImAMthI bI.e. 1957mAM gujarAtI ane prAcIna bhAratIya saMskRti viSayomAM ema.e.saradAra paTe lA yunivarsiTI, vallabhavidyAnagaramAM teo varSo sudhI anusnAtaka gujarAtI vibhAganA adhyakSa rahyA. 'nATacaloka' (1979) emano nATyaviSayaka vivecanasaMgraha che. gujarAtI ekAMkInuM sarjana baTubhAI pUrve pArasI lekhakoe karyuM hatuM e bAbata tarapha lakSa kheMcato lekha noMdhapAtra rahyo che.'jayA-jayaMta': be muddA e lekha paNa nhAnAlAlanA e nATakanI kaDaka nirbhIka AlocanA Apato hoI dhyAnapAtra che. 'kAvyamadhu' (1961), 'gadyagarimA' (1965), 'vArtAmadhu' (1973) ItyAdi emanA sahasaMpAdananA graMtho che. mukhyatve kaDaka, nirbhIka vivecaka ane sUjha-samaja, cIvaTavALA saMpAdaka pro. zekhaDIvALAe 'DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAha sAhitya saurabha graMthazreNInA be graMtho 'sAMprata samAja darzana'ane 'pravAsa Plate & PersondarzananuM saMpAdana karyuM che.

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ramaNabhAinI kalA racanA (1941)