Passportni Pankhe Part 2

Author(s): Ramanlal C Shah
Publisher: Mumbai Jain Yuvak Sangh
Catalog link: https://jainqq.org/explore/002037/1

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pAsaporTanI pajne I ISLAND Aritun nr. 166 Dag Visa no Date Gildir fyrir 7days_terdra Valid for a timabilinu fra from Fourne 102014 if ill it tche til brottfor fyrir) yntil (departure before) S oftun pessi veitir ekki rett til ad leita eda eru a lelandi. Syslu sa does not permithe ketaviurbogvelli employment in cand. SENDIRADI ISQAUG 1992 WONDON e THE UNITED OF AME NONIMMIGRA JEAT BOMBAY CATEGORIE B-1/3 2-4 DEC Vegabreface CLASSIFICATIOh EVISIEOR The FOR MULTIPLE CTRONG TRINT o fikurflugvelli 0i JUL 1992 VALID UNTIL VALIOE JUSQUAD in -FON -3 DE 1991 Dranchi 73 legobeefaskodun, 4 -ramAthAlAla cI.zAha For Private & Rersonal Use Only

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana (1995 pachI lakhAyelA anubhavono svataMtra saMgraha) lekhaka ramaNalAla cI. zAha prakAzaka zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha 385, saradAra vallabhabhAI paTela mArga muMbaI-400 004 mukhya vikretA Ara. Ara. zeThanI kaMpanI muMbaI-400 002 * amadAvAda-380 001

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PASSPORT NFE PANKHE (A Collection of foreign travel experiences) by Dr. RAMANLAL G SHAH Published by : Shree Mumbai Jain Yuvak Sangh 385, Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Road, MUMBAI-400-00-0 First Edition : October 1998 Price : Rs. 150-00 -- UTTARALEKHAN prathama AvRtti - oNkTobara 1998 kiMmata : rU. 150-80 (rUpiyA doDhaso) NO COPYRIGHT lekhakanAM sarva lakhANonAM anuvAda, saMkSepa, saMpAdana ke punarmudraNa mATe koI kaoNpIrAiTa rAkhavAmAM AvyA nathI. prakAzaka : zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha 385, saradAra vallabhabhAI paTela mArga muMbaI-400 004 mukhya vikretA : Ara. Ara. zeThanI kaMpanI muMbaI 400 002 * amadAvAda-380 001 vijaya oNphaseTa ajaya esTeTa, dUdhezvara, amadAvAda-380 004 TAipaseTiMga : pratikRti, pramA dave 7, zyAma epArTamenTsa, vizrAmanagaranI pAchaLa, gurukuLa roDa, memanagara, amadAvAda-380 052

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arpaNa AvatI kAlanA vizvapravAsIone zelajA (putrI) amitAbha (putra) cetanabhAI (jamAI) surabhi (putravadhU) gArgI (dohitrI) arcita (patra) kevalya (dohitra) acirA (patrI) parama kRpAthI pAmyo pravAso paradezanA; thAo vizvapravAsI sau evI AziSa aMtare. bhASA, dharma, vezAdinA bhedo bAhya upacArathI; manuSyanuM manuSyatva sarvatra sarakhuM dIse. jIvamaitrI taNo maMtra dhArIne hRdaye phare; divya AnaMdano marma anero uramAM lahe. ramaNalAla cI. zAha

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kopIrAITanuM visarjana mArA pragaTa thayela sarva graMtho ane anya sarva lakhANonAM anuvAda, saMpa, saMpAdana, punaHprakAzana ityAdi mATenA koI paNa prakAranA kopIrAiTa havethI rAkhavAmAM AvyA nathI. anya koI vyaktine ke koI prakAzakane koI paNa graMthanI prathama AvRtti mATe kopIrAITa ApelA hoya to tenuM paNa visarjana karavAmAM AvyuM che. have pachI prakAzita thanArA mArA koI paNa lakhANa mATe kopIrAITa raheze nahi. muMbaI ramaNalAla cI. zAha tA. 1-10-1992

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DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAhanAM pustako ekAMkIsaMgraha * zyAma raMga samIpe jIvanacaritra-rekhAcitra-saMsmaraNa * gulAmono muktidAtA * upAdhyAya zrI yazovijayajI * hemacaMdrAcArya * zrI mohanalAlajI mahArAja * vaMdanIya hRdayasparza, bhA. 1-2 * zeTha motIzAha * berarathI brigeDiyara * prabhAvaka sthaviro, bhA. 1thI 5 * tiviheNa vaMdAmi pravAsa-zodhasaphara * evaresTanuM ArohaNa * pAsaporTanI pAMkhe * uttaradhruvanI zodha-saphara * pradeze jaya-vijayanA * pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana * rANakapura tIrtha nibaMdha * sAMprata sahaciMtana, bhAga 1thI 10 * abhiciMtanA sAhitya-vivecana * gujarAtI sAhityanuM rekhAdarzana (anya sAthe) * ApaNAM phAgukAvyo * narasiMha pUrvenuM gujarAtI sAhitya * buMgAku-zumi * paDileha * samayasuMdara * kritikA * 1962nuM graMthastha vADmaya * naLa-damayaMtInI kathAno vikAsa * gUrjara phAgusAhitya saMzodhana-saMpAdana * naladavadaMtI rAsa (samayasuMdarakRta) * jaMbusvAmI rAsa (yazovijayajIkRta) * kuvalayamALA (udyotanasUrikRta) * mRgAvatIcaritra copAI (samayasuMdarakRta) * nala-davadaMtI prabaMdha (guNavinayakRta) * thAvasyAsuta riSi copAI (samayasuMdarakRta) * nalarAya-davadaMtI caritra (RSivardhanasUrikRta) * dhannA-zAlibhadra copAI (guNavinayakRta)

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* be laghu rAsakRtio (jJAnasAgarakRti ane kSamA kalyANakRta) * nala-davadaMtI prabaMdha (vijayazekharakRta). dharma-tattvajJAna * jaina dharma (chaThThI AvRtti) * na dha (hindI AvRtti) * saina dha (marAThI AvRtti) * bauddha dharma * nihnavavAda * Shraman Bhagran Mahavir & Jainism * Buddhism - An Introduction - Jina-Vachana * jinatattva, bhAga 1-2-3-4-5-6 * tAo darzana * kaphyuziyasano nItidharma * adhyAtmasAra, bhAga 1 saMkSepa * sarasvatIcaMdra, bhAga 1 (pAkyasaMkSepa) anuvAda * rAhula sAMkRtyAyana (sAhitya akAdamI, dilhI) * bhAratanI rASTrIya saMskRti (nezanala buka TrasTa, dilhI) saMpAdana (anya sAthe) * manISA * zreSTha nibaMdhikAo * zabdaloka * cinayAtrA * nirAjanA * akSarA * avagAhana * jIvanadarpaNa * kavitAlaharI samayaciMtana * tattvavicAra ane abhivaMdanA * mahattarA zrI mRgAvatIzrIjI * jaina sAhitya samAroha, guccha 1-2-3-4 * zrI vijayAnaMdasUri svargArohaNa zatAbdI graMtha * yatIndrasUri dIkSAzatAbdIgraMtha prakIrNa * ena.sI.sI. * jaina lagnavidhi VI

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nivedana videzapravAsanA mArA vividha anubhavaprasaMgono A bIjo svataMtra saMgraha prakAzita thAya che e mAre mATe tathA mArA parivAranA sabhyo ane snehI-mitro mATe atyaMta harSanI vAta che. 1983mAM pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'nuM prakAzana thayuM tyAre kalpanA nahotI ke evo eka bIjo saMgraha prakAzita thaze. 'pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'ne je saphaLatA maLI hatI te mAre mATe preraNAdAyI hatI. chellA doDha dAyakAmAM videzapravAsanI vadhu keTalIka taka maLI. vaLI agAunA paNa keTalAka evA anubhavo hatA ke jene vize lakhyuM nahotuM. eTale mArA mitra zrI ghanazyAma desAIe ane bhAIzrI dIpakabhAI dozIe "navanIta-samarpaNamAM pharIthI "pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'nI zreNI cAlu karavA mATe AgrahapUrvaka prastAva mUkyo tyAre meM e saharSa vadhAvI lIdho. Ama lagabhaga sADA traNa varSa sudhI A anubhava prasaMgo "navanIta-samarpaNa'mAM niyamita prakAzita thatA rahyA ane have te graMthasvarUpe prakAzita thAya che. "pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'nA zIrSaka heThaLa A badhA lekho zreNIrUpe pahelAM pragaTa thayA che ane have svataMtra saMgraharUpe pragaTa thAya che eTale graMthanuM nAma "pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana' evuM prayojyuM che. A graMtha vAMcanAra mATe pahelo graMtha vAMcI levAnuM anivArya nathI. evuM ja prathama graMtha vAMcanAra mATe che. baMne saMgraho svataMtra che. A graMthanA anubhava prasaMgo kramAnusAra vAMcavAnuM paNa koI baMdhana nathI. A badhA prasaMgo kAlAnukrame ke bhaugolika vibhAga anusAra goThavyA nathI. vastuta: jema jema lakhAtA gayA tema tema "navanIta-samarpaNamAM chapAtA gayA hatA, eTale vAcakane rasa paDe e daSTie krama goThavyo che. pravAsalekhono A graMthamAM Apelo krama deDha nathI. A badhA pravAsalekhone bhaviSyamAM vividha dRSTibinduthI vividha kramamAM goThavIne prakAzita karI zakAya. meM mArA kaoNpIrAiTanuM visarjana karyuM che eTale koIpaNa saMpAdaka potAnI dRSTithI enuM saMpAdana karI zake che, zALA-kolejanA pAThyapustakanI dRSTie Avazyaka lAge tyAM saMkSepa paNa karI zake. e mATe mArI koI anumati levAnI rahetI nathI. mAruM e sabhAgya rahyuM che ke chellA traNa dAyakA daramiyAna videzapravAsanI satata taka mane maLatI rahI che. duniyAnA keTalA badhA dezomAM keTaluM badhuM pharavAnuM maLyuM che ! ane chatAM aDadhI duniyA paNa meM joI nathI ema kahI zakAya. vastuta: duniyAmAM eTaluM badhuM jovA-pharavAnuM che. have videzapravAsanI koI navAI rahI nathI. sAdhano ane sagavaDo savizeSa upalabdha thatAM jAya che. duniyA sAMkaDI thatI jAya che. pravAsanI vikaTatA ghaTatI jAya che. videzamAM haju paNa keTalAka anubhavo vize jo avasara maLe to lakhavAno bhAva che; na maLe to koI vasavaso nathI, videza karatAM paNa bhAratamAM pravAsa karavAnI ghaNI badhI taka maLI che. samagra bhAratanA lagabhaga tamAma moTAM zahero, judA judA dharmanAM VII

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badhAM tIrthasthaLo, havAkhAvAnAM sthaLo, naisargika ramaNIya pradezomAM pharavAnuM-rakhaDavAnuM bahu ja banyuM che ane anekavidha anubhavo thayA che. keTalAka mitroe e vize lakhavA mATe sUcana karyuM che. e sUcana mane gamyuM che, paNa jyAre lakhAya tyAre sAcuM. vAcakone kazuMka navuM jANavA maLe, vArtA jevo rasa paDe ane mAro potAno vyaktigata lAkSaNika anubhava hoya evA prasaMgo vize A pravAsalekho lakhyA che, vizva satata parivartanazIla che. eTale ahIM ApelI keTalIka vigato mATe bhaviSyanI prajAne eTalI navAI na lAge evuM paNa saMbhavI zake che. A anubhavaprasaMgonA lekhana daramiyAna mArAM svajanoe (patnI, putra, putravadhU, putrI, jamAI vageree) keTalAMka upayogI sUcano karyA che teno RNasvIkAra ahIM karI lauM chuM. "navanIta-samarpaNa'mAM chapAyA pachI graMtharUpe prakAzita karatAM pahelAM kyAMka zAbdika pheraphAro karyA che ane rahI gayelAM mudraNadoSo nivArI lIdhA che. | 'pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'nA prakAzana vakhate mArA AtmIya vaDIlo pU. viSNuprasAda trivedIe ane pU. candravadana cI. mahetAe AvakAravacana lakhI ApyAM hatAM. e baMne videha sAkSaro tathA sva. bhRgurAya aMjAriyA A graMtha jovAne vidyamAna hota to teone keTalo badho AnaMda thAta ! A 'uttarAlekhana' mATe anya be vaDIla sAkSaro - pro. cI. nA paTelasAheba ane DaoN. raNajitabhAI paTela(anAmI)sAhebe AzIrvacana lakhI ApyAM che e mATe e baMneno hRdayapUrvaka natamastake AbhAra mAnuM chuM. mArA mitra pro. jazavaMtabhAI zekhaDIvAlAe A samagra lakhANa sAdyata cIvaTapUrvaka joI ApI upayogI sUcano karyA che e mATe emano paNa RNI chuM. A pravAsalekho zreNIrUpe prakAzita karavA mATe navanIta-samarpaNa'nA taMtrI zrI ghanazyAma desAIno tathA sahataMtrI zrI dIpakabhAI dozIno paNa AbhArI chuM. emanA mamatAbharyA Agraha vinA A pravAsalekho lakhavAnuM zakya banyuM ja na hota. A graMthanA prakAzananI javAbadArI zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghe upADI lIdhI e badala saMghano ane enA sarva kAryakartAono, vikretA tarIke javAbadArI svIkAravA badala Ara. Ara. zeThanI kaMpanIno ane enA mAlika zrI bhagatabhAI zeThano tathA mudraNakAryanI javAbadArI upADI levA badala mArA vaDIla mitra Do. zivalAla jesalapurAno tathA bhAIzrI girIzabhAI jesalapurAno paNa huM atyaMta AbhArI chuM. A lekhamALA lakhAvI ane prakAzita thavI zarU thaI tyArathI te graMtharUpe pragaTa thaI tyAM sudhI ene lagatAM prakIrNa kAmomAM sahAya karanAra zrI jAnu kavaLakarano paNa AbhArI chuM. A graMtha vAMcIne koIkane kaMIka paNa preraNA maLaze to mAruM lakhavuM sArthaka thayuM che ema mAnIza. muMbaI : Aso vada 1, vi.saM. 2054 ramaNalAla cI. zAha tA. 6-10-1998 VIII VIII

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skRtinI pAMkhe A pustakamAM saMgRhIta pravAsanibaMdhAnA lekhaka DaoN. ramaNalAla zAhane 'pAsaporTanI pAMkhe' pravAsa karatAM je je anubhavo thayA hatA te ta anubhavo temaNe potAnI "smRtinI pAMkha' evA tAdaza punaHjIvita karyA che ke e pravAsanibaMdhonA vAcakone thaze ke jANe pote e pravAsomAM DaoN. zAhanA sahapravAsI hatA, te e kAraNe ke A pravAsanibaMdho paNa mAtra dastAvejI dinavArI jevA nathI paNa lalita nibaMdho jevA che. darekedareka pravAsanibaMdhamAM vAcaka DaoN. zAhanA viziSTa vyaktitvano sparza anubhave che ane jue che ke 'dalapatakAvya'nA gujarAtI maMgaLAcaraNamAM ApaNA jAgRtikALanA e kavi je AzcaryabhAvathI lakhe che, 'vicitra A nATaka vizvanAma evA ja AzcaryabhAvathI DaoN. zAhe potAne thayelA keTalAka anubhavonuM varNana karyuM che. vaLI ramaNalAla ApaNA prakhara manISI govardhanarAma tripAThInA mAnasaputra sarasvatIcaMdranA suvarNapuramAM navInacaMdra nAmadhArI avatAranA jevA 'anubhavArthI' paNa che, ane e anubhavArthIe je je pravAso karyA che te sarva pravAso potAnI AMkho udhADI rAkhIne ane potAnA kAna saravA rAkhIne kyAM che. e rIte pravAso karavAnuM pariNAma e AvyuM che ke DaoN. zAhe je je dezomAM ke pradezomAM pravAsa karyA che te te deze ke pradezonI pote joyelI athavA jANelI ke e pravAsomAM temanA mArgadarzako athavA mArgadarzikAo pAsethI sAMbhaLelI bhaugolika lAkSaNikatAo ane/athavA e dezo ke pradezone lagatI aitihAsika mAhitI teo potAnI smRtimAM noMdhI rAkhI zakyA che ane A pravAsanibaMdhomAMthI keTalAkamAM evI bhaugolika lAkSaNikatAonuM savigata varNana karI zakyA che. ane evI aitihAsika mAhitI vAcakone yathAvat ApI zakyA che. hiMdI mahAsAgaramAM AvelA moriziyasa nAmanA TApune, uttara eNTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAM AvelA AisalaeNnDa nAmanA TApune, malAyAnA pinAMga TApune, uttara amerikA ane keneDAnI sarahade AvalI sainTa lorensa nAmanI nadImAM AvelA sahasradvIpa nAmanA TApune, dakSiNa alAskAnA vAlDijha nAmanA baMdarane, alAskAnA niAlI pArka nAmanA udyAnane, soviyeta yuniyana aMtargata jyorjiyA nAmanA pradezanA pATanagara tibilisIne ane ujhabekistAna nAmanA pradazanA pATanagara tAzkedane ane e ja pradezanI prAcIna nagarI samarakaMdane, prAcIna misaranI lagabhaga 2500 kimI lAMbI nadI nAIlane ane vhela nAmanA sothI paNa vadhAre phUTa lAMbA ane sauthI paNa vadhAre Tana vajananA jaLacara prANIne lagatI DaoN. zAhe te te pravAsanibaMdhomAM je bhaugolika ane/athavA aitihAsika mAhitI ApI che te A pravAsanibaMdhonA vAcakomAMthI bhAgye ja koI jANatA haze. jApAnanA tAbA nAmanA zaherano pravAsa karatAM DaoN. ramaNalAla oIsTara nAmanI eka prakAranI mAchalImAMthI sAcAM motI meLavatAM a* e ja prakAranI mAchalI upara prayogo karIne

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banAvaTI motI utpanna karavAnI prakriyAmAM je hiMsA thatI blei tathI duHkhI thaine jaina dharmanI ahiMsA jemane svabhAvagata che evA ramaNalAla lakhe che; 'huM vicAre caDI gayo. motIne mATe jApAnamAM rojanI karoDo mAchalIo mArI nAkhavAmAM AvatI haze ! duniyAbharanA motInA utpAdananA vicAra to ahiMsAvAdIone kamakamAvI mUke evo che..... motInA A vepAramAM ahiMsAmAM mAnavAvALA jaino moTI saMkhyAmAM paDyA che e vaLI bIjI karuNatA nathI ?' A pravAsanibaMdho mAhitIsabhara che te sAthe temanA viSayonuM vaividhya paNa noMdhapAtra che. 'mevAsiMgano beTo', 'kievano gAiDa vikaTara', 'sahasra dvIpanA pradezamAM', 'kumAmoTo', 'mAunTa AbUna' ne 'denAlI nezanala pArka', 'roToA', 'vAlDi', 'vAikiMganA vArasadAro', 'suvAmAM navuM varSa', 'kavAi nadInA kinAre' ane 'vhaladarzana' e pravAsanibaMdhamAM sArI TUMkI vArtAmAM hoya evuM Azcaryatattva che to 'rakyAvika pahoMcatAM', 'tAkaMdamAM', 'ijiptanA visA' ane 'rijensabargamAM rAtavAso' e pravAsanibaMdhamAM koi nATayAtmaka paristhitinuM Alekhana che. vaLI 'nisbata' pravAsanibaMdhamAM ramaNalAlane ane tArAbahenane temanAM putra ci. amitAbha ane putravadhU a.sau. surabhi sAthe amerikAmAM baoNsTana nAmanA zaheranA ekTana nAmanA parAmAM greTaroDa upara AvelA nAcobA velI epArTamenTsa saMkulamAM rahetAM AjanA audyogika samAjomAM kyAMka kyAMka jovA maLe che evA svakendrI mAnasano anubhava thayo hato tenuM varNana che, to 'lesTaramAM aDadhI rAte' e pravAsanibaMdhamAM ramaNalAlanAM sAsujInI sUcanAthI 'vATakI vyavahAra'no ahiMsaka prayoga karIne eka Aropa aMgrejano roSa zamAvyAnA prasaMganuM Alekhana che. 'ghUtanagara lAsa vigAsa' e pravAsanibaMdhamAM jugArIonI manovRttinuM jarA ramUjI nirUpaNa che. e pravAsanibaMdhanA vAcakone e jANIne Azcarya thaze ke ramaNalAla ane tArAbahena je hoTalamAM UtaryAM hatAM te hoTalanA menejaranuM mAna rAkhavA temaNe paNa e dhUtanagaramAM eka sloTa mazInamAM 10 10 senTanA 10 sikkAo nAkhIne baTana dabAvyAM hatAM ane e marina temanI upara 25 DaoNlara ane 40 senTanI kRpA varasAvI hatI, joke e rakamamAMthI temaNe 11 DaoNlara hoTalanA 'belaoNyane bakSisarUpe ApI dIdhA hatA ane TekSI-DrAivarane paNa bhADAnA 7 DaoNlara uparAMta 15 DaoNlaranI bakSisa ApI hatI. ApaNe icchIe ke DaoN. ramaNalAla zAha izopaniSadano bIjo maMtra rvaneveda mAMgi ninIviSejjIta samA: dhyAnamAM rAkhIne 100 varSanuM AyuSya bhogavavAnI abhilASA rAkhe, zepa jIvanamAM paNa pravAso karatA rahe ane A pustaka jevA pravAsanibaMdhonA bIjA pAMcadaza saMgraho Ape. huM to temane ema paNa sUcavuM ke temaNe hye TUMkI vArtAo ane ekAMkI nATako lakhatA thavuM. cI. nA. paTela 4 nIlakaMTha pArka, navaraMgapurA amadAvAda - 380 009 5-6 -1998

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eka ramaNIya, cetohara pravAsagraMtha zrI ramaNalAlane nAnapaNathI ja citrakalAmAM jabaro zokha. citrakalAnA viSayamAM teo sadAye prathama naMbare Ave. maeNTrika thayA bAda, citrakalAnA viSayamAM DiplomA levA mATe muMbaInI je. je. skUla opha ArTamAM javAnI tamaNe manomana saMkalpa kalA, paNa maeNTrikanA varSa daramiyAna emanA varga zikSaka kavizrI amIdAsa kANakiyA emane gujarAtI bhaNAve. varganI cha mAsika parIkSAmAM gujarAtInA viSayamAM tamaNe ramaNalAlana sauthI vadhu guNa (mAkarsa) ApyA ane uttarapatramAM chella avI noMdha karI ke, 'sAhityamAM tame rasa lezo te AgaLa jatAM jarUra lakhaka thaI zako.' kavi- adhyApaka kANakiyAnA A bhaviSyakathana javA abhiprAyathI bhAvavibhora banatA ramaNalAla, maeNTrika pachI citrakalAne badala ArTa kaoNlejamAM jaI sAhityanA viSaya lava evo daDha saMkalpa karyo ane Aje ApaNe joIe chIe ke emanI vaya (a) 71 varSa) katAMya vadhAre dazeka (lagabhaga 80) khyAta graMthonA suNya lekhaka tarIke A pratiSThA pAmyA che. saMkhyA ane satvanI dRSTie paNa emanI bahumukhI vyutpatti ane saghana sajajatAmAM sAhityanA kaTakeTalA ilAkAone ajavALyA che ! jaina-jainetara sAhityanuM zAstrIya saMpAdana hoya ke akSaNa viSayanuM saMzodhana hoya, lalita ke lalita sAhityanuM vivecana hoya ke jaina jainetara dharmatanI paryapaNA hAya, parabhASAnA ziSTa graMthanA rasaLatAM anuvAda hoya ke kalAsikala graMthano saMkSepa hoya, jena-bauddha-tattvadarzananI tulanAtmaka samIkSA hoya ke pravAsa- zodha-saphara - sAhityanuM dakSa, cetohara Alekhana hoya ke 'prabuddha jIvananA agralekha hoya - saumAM emanI vilakSaNa akSara lIlA supara varatAya che. mArca, 1983mAM pragaTa thayelI 'pAsaporTanI pAMkhenI prathama AvRtti ane mAMDa cAra ja mAsamAM, 1983nA julAI mAsamAM pragaTa thayelI tanI dvitIya AvRtti, amana gujarAtI pravAsa-sAhityanA prathama paMktinA lekhaka tarIke prasthApita kare che. 'pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'mAM AlekhAyelA paMcAvana viziSTa ane vilakSaNa prasaMgomAM kyAMka kyAMka ApaNA divaMgata vArtA-navalakathAkAra zrI ramaNalAla va. desAInI rahasya gopana-sphoTa-zailInuM ane gujarAtI pravAsa-sAhitya- samrATa zrI kAkAsAheba kAlelakaranI zikSaNa-saMskAra-saMskRti-maMDita bhASAbhaMginuM naisargika AkarSaNa anubhavAyuM che. . 'pAsaporTanI pAMkhenA vadhu lakhelA prasaMgo chellAM traNeka varSathI navanIta'mAM pragaTa thatA hatA te have graMtharUpe - 'pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana'nA nAmathI pragaTa thAya che. A baMne graMthonA vAMcana TANe mana kavivara TvIndranAtha TAgoranA vRndavAdana kAvyanuM smaraNa thAya che. kAvyamAM teo kahe che : "A vipula pRthvInuM huM keTaluM ochuM jANuM chuM. zadevAmAM keTalAya nagaro, rAjadhAnI - mANasanI keTalI kIrti, keTakeTalAM nadI, giri, siMdhu, XI . .. 8

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marubhUmi, keTakeTalA ajANyA jIva, keTakeTalAM ajANyAM taru, agocara rahI gayAM che. vizvanuM Ayojana vizALa che, mAruM mana teno eka ati kSudra khUNo rokIne rahe che. e du:khathI jemAM pravAsavarNana hoya evA graMtho akSaya utsAhathI vAMcuM chuM. jyAMtyAM citramaya varNananI vANI maLe che te upADI lAvuM chuM. potAnA mananI A jJAnanI dInatA bhIkhathI maLelAM dAna vaDe bane eTalI pUrI karI lauM chuM.' TAgoranuM A kAvya to ThIka ThIka lAMbuM che paNa DaoN. zAhe 'bhIkhathI maLelI pravAsavarNana'nI-citramaya varNananI vANI' meLavI nathI, paNa bAdazAhI sagavaDo- agavaDo veThIne, eka khela-dila ramatavIra ke ena.sI.sI.nA mejaranI yuyutsA-titikSAthI savastha-prAjJapravAsI tarIke meLavelI nijI siddhi che. DaoN. zAhanAM A baMne pustaka vAMcatAM, mArA mananI sthitie, kavivara TAgoranA manobhAvano ja paDagho pADyo. ApaNI ApaNA vizvanI jANakArI keTalI badhI maryAdita che ! DaoN. zAhanuM A pustaka vAMcI mArA jevA sthavirane to keTalo badho kSobha thAya ! ane dhAro ke kaMi joi nAkhavAnI cAnaka caDhe toya jIvanane navame dAyake zI dhADa mAravAnA ? 'jIvyAthI joyuM bhaluM' e to sahI paNa joyelAnuM smaraNa karavuM, ene vAgoLavuM ane DaoN. zAha jevI zakti hoya to enuM ramaNIya Alekhana karavuM e to sarvathI uttama. DaoN. zAhanA A graMthamAM mAnavasvabhAvanuM vaividhya ane vaicitrya Thera Thera jovA maLe che. emAM kyAMka kAruNya che, to kyAMka ramUja; kyAMka svabhAvanI saMkulatA che, to kyAMka narI saralatA ne svAbhAvikatA. emanA vaividhya-sabhara AlekhanamAM ekaMdara saMsparza mAnavakaruNAno che; ane evuM eka paNa prakaraNa nathI jemAM prakRtinAM vividha svarUponuM rudra-ramya-bhavya Alekhana, alaMkAramaMDita rasaLatI zailImAM na thayuM hoya. ghaNA prasaMgonA AlekhanamAM emanI bhaugolika, aitihAsika, sAMskRtika, sAhityika, dhArmika-AdhyAtmika, nRvaMzazAstrIya, rAjakIya, bhUstaraviSayaka, bhASAkIya, khagoLazAstrIya ke purAtattvaviSayaka abhijJAno supere paricaya thAya che. emanI aitihAsika ane tulanAtmaka adhyApakIya daSTine kAraNe moTA bhAganAM Alekhana tAdaza, rocaka, prabhAvaka ane hRdayasparzI banyAM che. emanI nirjhariNIsamI bhASAmAM kayAMya kaze kaThe ke kaSTa Ape tevI kaThoratA ke kliSTatA nathI, balke pramoda pamADe tevI pravAhitA ne prAsAdikatA che. emanI vicAraNA ne enI dakSa abhivyaktinA namUnArUpa eka avataraNa joie : ''jotAM ja prasannatA upajAve, varSo sudhI ghasAya nahi ke melI na thAya, dehalAvaNyamAM ane suzobhanomAM umero kare evI motI (muktAphaLa) jevI camakadAra vastunI jANa mAnavajAtane TheTha prAcIna kALathI hatI. svAti nakSatramAM meghabiMdu chIpamAM paDe to te motI thai jAya evI lokamAnyatA paNa pracalita hatI. nava ratnamAM motInI paNa gaNanA thatI. na kahovAya, na kathaLe, na kATa lAge evI kImatI dhAtu suvarNano upayoga alaMkArAdimAM thato tema auSadhAdimAM XII

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paNa thato, evI ja rIte hIrA, mANeka, nIlama, puravALAM vagerenI jema mAtAnI bhasmano upayoga oSadhAdimAM thato Avyo che. TheTha prAcIna kALathI maMgaLamaya cIjavastuomAM motInI gaNanA paNa thayelI che. 'thALa bharI bharI motIDe vadhAvA jevI kAvyapaMktio A mAMgalyanuM sUcana kare che. chIpalAmAM motI banAvanAra mAchalI mATe muktAzukti' jevo zabda pracalita hato. - "hAthInA gaMDasthaLamAMthI jharato mada gaMDasthaLanI aMdara ja jyAre sukAIne nakkaranAnA paththara jevo, thaI jAya to temAMthI kyAreka motI jevI AkRti nIkaLe che, ane gajamauktika kahe che. prAcIna samayamAM kImatI ratnomAM gamauktikanI paNa gaNanA thaI che. paraMtu hAthIomAMthI koIkanA ja gaMDasthaLamAMthI mada kayAreka jhare che ane mada jharatA evA ghaNA hAthIomAMthI koIkanA ja gaMDasthaLamAM motI thAya che. eTale ja kahevAyuM che ke mauktika na gaje gaje'. eTale ja gamauktika jevI virala durlabha vastu paNa atyaMta zukanavaMtI' manAI che..... "marajIvA hoya te motI laI Ave evI kahevata amastI pracalita nahotI.... evA DUbakImArone "marajIvA' kahevAmAM AvatA." (pR. 135) 'mevAsiMgano beTo'mAM vaphAdAra zvAna rAmunI vAta hoya ke kacchapa, vahela ke paravALAnI vAta hoya, saharAnuM raNa, nAIla nadI ke eskimonI vAta hoya ke paphIna TApu - pakSInI vAta hoya, vAI nadInA pulanI vAta hoya ke bhUrA taLAvanI vAta hoya, pASANatoraNa (sTona henja)nI vAta hoya ke maLavisarjananI pratikRtinI vAta hoya, e saumAM eka uttama vArtAkAranI sarjaktAno unmeSa dAkhavatI pravAsa-lekhakanI zaktinuM darzana thAya che. saMkSepamAM kahuM to prajAjIvana hoya ke nagara-sthAna-vizeSa hoya, prAkRtika-sAMskRtika pariveza vagerenI kevaLa mAhitI na lAge kinta pravAsakanI saMvedanazIlatAno saMsparza pAmIne potAnuM rAsAyaNika rUpAntara anubhavAya ne kazuMka pAmyA-mANyAne prasannakara anubhava cetavistAra karI Ape - evI DaoN. zAhanI a-kSaralIlAnI balihArI che. phalazruti uccAravAno adhikAra to graMthakartAno hoya che, paNa e bAbatamAM mAre anadhikAra ceSTA karavAnI hoya to purANakAronI jUnI paripATI pramANe huM putrArthe samatte putram ke dhana tama ghanam na kahuM paNa sAcA aMtaranI pratItipUrvaka kahyuM ke je koI A graMtha vAMcaze tenI prajJA sarvAzleSI nahi to bahuzleSI to banaze ane enI buddhi jJAnanAM aneka kSetromAM muktavihAra karI zakaze ane nirbheLa AnaMdanI prAmi vaLI laTakAmAM. - vyakti maTIne banuM vizva-mAnavI DaoN. zAha kavinI A paMktine caritArtha karI batAvI che e mATe emane dhanyavAda ane emanAthI vayamAM bAreka varSa moTo chuM e adhikAra zubhAziSa ne AzIrvAda. tA. 4/7/98 - DaoN. raNajita ema. paTela vaDodarA-7 (anAmI) X.II

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1. mevAsiMgano beTo 2. reyAvika pahocatAM 3. kievano gAiDa vikTara 4. TorAnTomAM zAkAhAra pariSada 19. Dine 20. tobA anukramaNikA 1 ' 14 5. . sahasra dvIpanA pradezamAM 6. kumAmoTo 7. saharAnA raNamAM 8. mAunTa Apyuna 9. ulUlU 10. nisbata 11. maoNskomAM bhAratIya jamaNa 12. denAlI nezanala pArka 13. lesTaramAM aDadhI rAte 14. roToruA 89 15. tAkAmatsu ane ritsurina pArka 98 16. tAkaMdamAM 105 17. TrikomAlI 111 18. vAlDijha 21 28 37 40 48 56 63 68 74 82 116 124 130 21. tibilisI 22. lukSemborgathI nivA 23. samarakaMda 24. eskimonI nagarImAM 25. ijimanA visA 26. rijensabargamAM rAtavAso 27. vAikiMganA vArasadAro 28. suvAmAM navuM varSa 29. kavAI nadInA kinAre 30. pinAMga 31. vhela-darzana 32. nAIlamAM naukAvihAra 33. sTonahaeNnja 137 144 150 158 168 173 178 183 188 196 201 210 217 34. dhUtanagara lAsa vegAsa 222 35. blU legUna ane viDeya TApu 228 36. yosemiTI 233 37. sattara mAIlano sAgarakAMTho 241 38. zvetAcalanA pradezamAM 39. korintha 250 40. ejiyana samudranA TApuomAM 256 246

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana

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dIsai viviha cariaM, jANijjai sajjaNa appANaM ca kalijjai, hiMDijjai teNa puhavIe / G [pravAsa karavAthI vividha prakAranAM caritro jovAmAM Ave che, sajjana ane durjana vacceno taphAvata samajavAmAM Ave che, temaja AtmAnI zakti khIle che. mATe pRthvIno pravAsa karavo.] dhanyakumAra caritra 4tho pallava XVI dujjaNa viseso /

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mevAsiMgano beTo moriziyasa eTale arabI samudramAM "choTA bhArata'. A dvIpa-deza Island Country) AphrikAnA pUrva kinArAthI AThaso mAIla dUra dariyAmAM Avyo hovA chatAM bhaugolika daSTie sezalsa ane mADAgAskaranA TApuonI jema enI gaNanA paNa AphrikA khaMDamAM thAya che. moriziyasa eTale hajAro varSa pUrve TharI gayelA jvALAmukhIono pradeza. joke pachIthI te eTalo ja phaLadrupa banelo. zeraDI eno mukhya pAka che. me-jUna-julAImAM moriziyasamAM karIe to purI UMcI UgelI ane uparathI saheja lacI paDelI zeraDInAM khetaro cAre bAju jovA maLe. moriziyasanA arthataMtramAM mukhya Avaka zeraDInI. paMdareka lAkhanI vastIne vaparAza mATe jeTalI joIe te sivAyanI badhI ja khAMDanI nikAsa duniyAnA ghaNA dezomAM thAya. ApaNe tyAM khAMDa mATe "morasa' zabda vaparAya che te moriziyasanA nAma uparathI Avyo che. moriziyasa eTaluM sabhAna che ke potAnA nAnA sarakhA dezanI badhI ja jamIna khetI mATe ja vaparAvI joIe, eTale khetarone vADa paNa hotI nathI. rastAnI aDoaDa baMne bAju zeraDI UgelI hoya. kAkAsAhebe yogya rIte ja moriziyasane "zarkarA dvIpa' tarIke oLakhAvyo che. ame cAra mitro 1987nA me mahinAmAM moriziyasanA pravAse tyAMnI "moriziyasa eNralAInsa'nA vimAnamAM muMbaIthI UpaDyA hatA. savArano samaya hato ane AkAza . svaccha hatuM. eTale vimAnanI bArImAMthI arabI samudramAM AvelA moriziyasa TApunuM dazya koI svapnabhUmi samuM manohara lAgatuM hatuM. mAruM citta eka bAju vimAnamAMthI dazyo jovAmAM rokAyuM hatuM, tema bIjI bAju moriziyasanI bhUtakALanI vAtomAM magna banyuM hatuM IsavIsananA soLamA saikAnA AraMbhamAM yuropanA khalAsIo vahANamAM bhArata bAju AvavA nIkaLelA tyAre teoe arabI samudramAM A TApu joyelo, ane noMdhelo. I.sa. 160mAM Daca lokoe eno kabaje lIdho. potAnA umarAva morisanA nAma uparathI enuM nAma moriziyasa rAkhyuM. paraMtu karelA jvALAmukhIno e pradeza bahu kAmano na hovAthI teoe I.sa. 1710mAM choDI dIdho. pachI phreMca lokoe enA upara Adhipatya jamAvyuM. eka saikA daramiyAna, phreMca lokoe moriziyasanuM DoDo nAmanuM pakSI khAI khAIne khatama karI nAkhyuM. eTale kahevata paDI : Dead as a dodo. I.sa. 1810mAM briTana ane phrAMsa vacce yuddha thayuM. te vakhate briTiza naukAsenAe phreMca pAsethI A TApu paDAvI

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana lIdho. aMgrejoe zeraDInI khetI mATe ane khAMDanAM potAnAM kArakhAnAMo mATe bhAratamAMthI majUro laI jaIne tyAM vasAvyA. eTale moriziyasa choTe bhArata' jevuM banI gayuM. 1968mAM ta svataMtra thayuM. moriziyasamAM enuM mukhya vepArI zahera che kayupiMpa (Curepipeno uccAra e pramANe teo kare che). phreMca Adhipatya daramiyAna A verAna TApumAM thAkelA pravAsIo ahIM visAmo khAvA besatA ane pAIpa pItA. pAIpa saLagAvatAM pahelAM teo ene sApha-Cure karatA. eTale A sthaLanuM nAma Curepipe paDI gayuM hatuM. tyAM hoTela konTinenTalamAM ame UtaryA hatA. vacamAM ame dariyAkinArAnI eka hoTelamAM paNa rahI AvyA ane AsapAsano keTaloka pradeza paNa joyo. amArAmAMnA eka mitrane muMbaIthI koIka oLakhItAM uttara bhAratIya bahene potAnA bhAI upara mAtra khuzakhabarano patra Apyo hato. mevAsiMga nAmanA e sajajanane e patra pahoMcADavAno hato. na pahoMcADAya to TapAlamAM nAkhavAno hato ane e paNa bhUlI javAya to kazo vAMdho nathI ema emaNe kaheluM. yupiMpanI hoTelamAMthI ame mevAsiMgane phona kyoM. kahyuM, 'tamArAM bahene muMbaIthI khuzakhabarano patra mokalAvyo che. emaNe kahyuM che ke patramAM khAsa koI mahattvanI vAta nathI. eTale ame Aje TapAlamAM nAkhIzuM. kAraNa ke tamAruM gAma to ahIMthI TekasImAM doDha kalAkane raste che. ane amane tyAM sudhI AvavAnI anukULatA nathI.' mevAsige kahyuM, 'tame patra TapAlamAM ravAnA na karazo. huM Aje e bAju nIkaLavAno chuM. to tamArI hoTela para AvIne laI jaIza.' nizcita samaye mevasiMga hoTela upara AvI pahoMcyA. teo UMcA ane zyAma varNanA hatA. svabhAve hasamukha jaNAyA. sapheda zarTa, sapheda penTa ane kenavAsanAM sapheda zUjha temaNe paheryA hatAM. jANe koI khelADI hoya evA lAge. paMcAvananI umara vaTAvI gayA haze evuM caherA parathI jaNAtuM hatuM. caherA para AMkho nIce saheja sojA hatA. e parathI lAgyuM ke tabiyata barAbara nahi rahetI hoya. emano avAja niyamita dArU pInArano vRddhAvasthAmAM jevo thaI jAya tevo hato. mevAsiMganI bhASA hindI hatI, paraMtu temanA bolavAmAM moriziyasamAM pracalita thayelI phreMca varNasaMkara jevI lokabolI deola(Creole)nI thoDI chAMTa varatAtI hatI. vAtacIta parathI jANyuM ke teo kreolamAM paNa sarasa bolI zakatA hatA. ame mevAsiMgane patra Apyo. emaNe kahyuM, 'tame TheTha bhAratathI ahIM Avo ane mArA ghare jamyA vagara jAo te barAbara nathI. mane A gamatuM nathI. emano ghaNo Agraha hato eTale chevaTe ema nakkI thayuM ke teo pote je klabamAM sabhya che tyAM amAre emanI sAthe cApANI levAM.

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mevAsiMgano beTo ame taiyAra thaI mevAsiMganI kAramAM besI kalabamAM gayA. ame beThA ke tarata emaNe jAtajAtanI vAnagIo mATe oNrDara ApI dIdhA. ame mUMjhAyA. kahyuM, "ATaluM badhuM kaMI khavAro nahi.' emaNe kahyuM, 'je phAve te lejo. kalaba ApaNA gharanI che ema ja samajajo. ApaNe pharI kyAre maLIzuM te kone khabara che ? huM to hArTa pezanTa chuM.' ame joyuM ke veiTaro paNa mevAsiMga sAthe bahu Adara, vinaya ane premathI sasmita vAta karatA hatA. TebalanI eka bAjuthI vizALa pAradarzaka kAcamAMthI gaoNlpha mATenuM lIluMchama medAna dekhAtuM hatuM. mevAsiMge kahyuM ke pote gaoNlpha ramavAnA ghaNA zokhIna hatA, paraMtu pAMceka varSa pahelAM hRdayarogano humalo Avyo tyAra pachI emaNe gaoNlpha ramavAnuM choDI dIdhuM che. pharI gaye varSe emane bIjo humalo paNa AvI gayo paNa bacI gayA. paraMtu klabamAM AvavAnuM temanuM niyamitapaNe cAlu ja che. hRdayaroganA humalA pachI keTalAka mANaso bhAvArdra banI jAya che ane kaMIka lAgaNIzIlatAnI vAta Ave to gaLagaLA banI jAya che ke emanI AMkhamAM AMsu AvI jAya che. mevAsiMganuM paNa evuM ja jaNAyuM. potAnI bahenano patra kholatAM pahelAM emaNe kahyuM, 'huM pahelAM thoDuM raDI lau. mArI bahenano aMdara Thapako haze ja, kAraNa ke ghaNA vakhatathI mArAthI patra lakhAyo nathI.' eTaluM bolatAM to emanI AMkhamAMthI be motI sarI paDyAM. mevAsiMga patra vAMcavAmAM paDyA. ame cA-nAsto letAM letAM gaoNlphanA medAna tarapha jovA lAgyA. tyAM mevAsiMge kahyuM, 'gaoNlpha ramavAnI vAta Ave eTale mArA karatAM mArA beTA rAmune bahu majhA paDe. ame gharethI kAramAM nIkaLIe ane ene khabara paDe ke klabamAM jaie chIe to Akhe raste e gelamAM AvI gayelo hoya.' 'tamArA beTAne paNa gaoNlpha ramatAM AvaDe che ?' 'nA, evuM to na kahevAya, paNa huM ramato houM tyAre baoNla lAvI ApavA mATe e doDAdoDI kare.' keTalAM varSano che tamAro dIkaro ?' 'ene cha pUrAM thayAM ane sAtamuM cAle che.' 'e paNa klabano membara che ?' 'nA, e membara nathI. kAyadesara membara na thaI zake, paNa e membarathI paNa vizeSa che, kAraNa ke klabamAM saune e vahAlo che.' 'skUle javAnuM eNe cAlu karyuM che ?' 'nA, paNa e ghaNo ja hoziyAra che. enI samajadArI to Azcarya pamADe evI che. tame eka vakhata ene juo to kayAreya bhUlI zako nahi.' 'kharekhara ? to to tamArA dIkarAne amAre jovo joIze.' amArAmAMthI eke kahyuM.

Page #21
pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana 'eTale ja kahuM chuM ke cAlo mArI sAthe mAre ghare. tamane mArI kAramAM laI jaIza. ApaNe tyAM sAthe jamIe. tamane hoTela para pAchA pahoMcADavAnI javAbadArI mArI. pachI tamane zo vAMdho che ?' keTalIka AnAkAnI pachI mevAsiMganA ghare jamavA javAnuM nakkI thayuM. mevAsiMga harSamAM AvI gayA. tarata ghare phona joDyo ane jamavA mATe sUcanA ApI dIdhI. ame moTaramAM megAsiMgane ghare javA UpaDyA. rastAmAM emanI sAthe vAta karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke pote ekavIsa varSanI umare paraNyA ane be varSamAM vidhura thayA. pachI lagna karavAnI emanI bilakula IcchA nahotI. paNa vakhata jatAM jIvanamAM ekalatA lAgavA mAMDI. eTale pistAlIsa varSanI umare eka mitranI bhalAmaNathI yamunA nAmanI eka vidhavA zikSikA sAthe lagna karyA. emanuM dAmpatyajIvana ghaNI sArI rIte goThavAI gayuM hatuM. emano vyavasAya moTA oNrDara pramANe, DijhAIna anusAra kapaDAM sIvI ApavAno hato. sa darajIo kAma kare ane potAne mAtra dekharekha rAkhavAnI. badhI rIte sukhI hatA. eka mAtra dIkarAnI khoTa hatI. te paNa bhagavAne ApI dIdho. emanA saMtAnamAM eka mAtra rAmu hato. lagabhaga eka kalAkanA rastA pachI mevAsiMganuM ghara AvyuM. gADImAMthI UtarI ame mevAsiMganA gharamAM gayA. gharamAM dAkhala thatAM ja mevAsiMge utsAhapUrvaka bhAvabharyA lahekAthI bUma pADI. (rA...!! beTA...rAmu !' tyAM emanAM patnIe rasoDAmAMthI bahAra AvI kahyuM, 'rAmu bahAra gayo che. paDozanA chokarAo ane sAthe ramavA laI gayA che. have Avavo joIe." mevAsiMge potAnAM patnI yamunAbahenano paricaya karAvyo. pachI teo tarata rAmu mATe bUma pADatA bahAra nIkaLyA. ame sophAmAM goThavAyA. eTalAmAM eka kALA bhUkharA raMgano alseziyana kUtaro gharamAM dAkhala thayo. e amArA cArenA paga suMghavA lAgyo. yamunAbahene kahyuM, "gabharAzo nahi, e tamane karaDaze nahi." mevAsige sarasa majhAno kUtaro pALyo che ema jotAM ja amane lAgyuM. evAmAM mevAsiMga bahArathI bolatAM bolatAM AvatA dekhAyA, "are rAmu.. tuM AvI gayo che ? huM tane zodhavA nIkaLyo hato.' rAma kyAre gharamAM Avyo ane kyAM jatA rahyo enI amane khabara paDI nahi. tyAM kUtaro mevAsiMga tarapha bahAra doDyo ane be page UMco thaI emanI sAthe gela karato karato gharamAM Avyo. mevAsiMge paricaya karAvyo, "A mAro beTo rAmu.' emaNe kUtarAne kahyuM, "jA beTA... mahemAno sAthe hAtha milAva.' ame AzcaryamAM paDyA. pUchyuM, je dIkarAnI tame vAta karatA hatA te A ?'

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mevAsiMgano beTo 'hA, A mAro ekano eka beTo che. rAmu beTA karatAM paNa ghaNo vadhAre che. mArA vilamAM paNa mArA A beTAnuM nAma meM dAkhala karAvyuM che. mArA beTAne have to koI kUtaro kahe to paNa mane gamatuM nathI. amArA kuTuMbano e sarvasva che.' daramiyAna rAmue amArA dareka pAse AvI potAno AgaLano jamaNo paga UMco karI hAtha milAvyA. mevAsiMge kahyuM, "beTA rAmu, A mArA bUTa uparanA rUmamAM mUkI Ava.' rAmu moDhAmAM eka pachI eka bUTa bharAvI doDato dAdara caDato uparanA rUmamAM mUkI Avyo. pachI mevAsige kahyuM, "beTA, mArA slipara laI Ava.' rAmu slipara laI Avyo. mevAsiMge pagamAMthI mojAM kADhyAM ane kahyuM, "beTA, jA A sapheda mojAM mUkI Ava ane kALAM mojAM laI Ava.' rAmue e pramANe karyuM. Ama mevAsige bIjI keTalIka vastuo magAvI ane keTalIka pAchI mokalI. kUtaro bhUlacUka vagara badhuM ja kAma vyavasthita karato hato. ame kharekhara Azcaryacakita thaI gayA. ame joyuM ke kUtarAnI AMkho kaMIka judI ja hatI. emAM mANasa jevI ja nirdoSatA, saraLatA, bhAvuktA, vinaya, prema, vaphAdArI vagere vaMcAtAM hatAM. ame pUchyuM, "rAmune A badhuM AvaDyuM kevI rIte ? tame khAsa tAlIma ApI che ke koInI pAse evI tAlIma apAvI che ?' mevAsiMge kahyuM, "evI koI tAlIma ApI nathI ke apAvI nathI. rAmu eka varSano hato tyAre ame ene vecAto laI AvelA. paNa pachI ame baMnee ena bahu vahAla ApyuM che. meM ene mArA beTAnI jema ucheryo che. mAtra enuM zarIra kUtarAnuM che. amArI sAthe e UThe che; amArI sAthe khAya che; amArI sAthe e bahAra pharavA Ave che. ane rAtre amArI pathArImAM ja sAthe suI jAya che.' yamunAbahene kahyuM, 'amArI badhI vAtacIta e samaje che. koI vAra ene khoTuM lAge ane risAya to e khAya nahi. pachI amAre ene bahu manAvavo paDe. ghaNAM kAlAvAlA pachI e mAnI jAya tyAre AMkhamAM daDadaDa AMsu sAthe e khAya. e eTalo jAtavAna che ke ame ene lAvyA tyArathI Aja lagI koI divasa eNe amAruM ghara gaMdu karyuM nathI. game teTalo bhUkhyo hoya ane rasoDAmAM khAvAnuM khulluM paDyuM hoya paNa ame na ApIe tyAM sudhI khAya nahi.' yamunAbahene Tebala goThavyuM eTale ame jamavA beThA. amArI sAthe rAmu paNa jamavA beTho. khurazI upara e evI rIte beTho ke be paga laTakatA rahe ane be paga Tebala para rahe. ene pleTamAM evI vastuo khAvA ApavAmAM AvI ke je e be paga vaDe barAbara pakaDIne khAI zake. yamunAbahene kahyuM, dhIme dhIme karatAM rAmune ghaNI vastuo

Page #23
pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana khAtAM AvaDI gayuM che. eka vakhata eka mahemAna AvyA hatA. ane e vakhate lIcInI sIjhana hatI. ame rAmunI pleTamAM lIcI mUkI to eNe photarAM ukhADI lIcI khAdhI. ThaLiyA tathA photarAM pleTamAM evI rIte mUkato jAya ke jarA paNa kazuM bagaDe nahi. rAmune lIcI khAto joIne mahemAna Azcaryacakita thaI gayA hatA.' 'rojano eno khorAka zuM ?' ame khAIe te ja, dALa, roTI, cAvala, sabajI. ene badhuM ja bhAve.' ene mAMsAhAra Apavo paDe ?' "nA, bilakula nahi. Ama to azeziyana kUtarA mAMsAhArI hoya che. paNa rAma to pahelethI ja zuddha zAkAhArI che. pyAja, lasaNa ame na khAIe eTale rAmu paNa na khAya." kUtaruM ja eka mAtra evuM prANI che ke je samagra jagatamAM sarvatra jovA maLe che, pachI e himapradeza hoya ke raNapradeza, sUkI dharatI hoya ke satata vRSTivALAM lIlAMchama jaMgalo hoya. prANI jagatamAMthI manuSyanI sauthI vadhu najIka hoya evAM prANIomAM bilADI kharI, paNa kUtarAnI tole e na Ave. kUtarAe mANasanA mAtra AMgaNAmAM ja nahi, phakta gharanI aMdara ja nahi, TheTha enA zayanakhaMDa sudhI sthAna meLavI lIdhuM che. bilADI rAtane vakhate bArI-bAraNAM khullAM hoya to bhaTakavA cAlI jAya. kUtaruM AkhI rAta cokI bharatuM pAse ne pAse besI rahe. kUtarAnI dhrANendriya atyaMta tIvra ane nidrA ghaNI ochI. mAlikanI mAgaNIone paNa e barAbara samaje. rAmue kalAkamAM amArA saunAM dila jItI lIdhAM. moDuM thatuM hatuM eTale ame UThyA. mevAsiMga ane yamunAbahena rAmu sAthe amane hoTela para mUkavA AvyAM. Akhe raste rAmanI ja vAta cAlyA karI. hoTela para pahoMcI ame emanI vidAya lIdhI. mevasiMga karatAM paNa rAmunI AMkhamAM amane vizeSa bhAva jaNAyo. rUmamAM sUtAM sUtAM paNa ame rAmano ja vicAra karatA hatA. ema lAgyuM ke sAruM thayuM ke melAsiMgano patra TapAlamAM na nAkhyo, nahi to eka sarasa avasara gumAvata. moriziyasamAM ame pATanagara porTa luIsanuM baMdara joyuM, taDako khAvA AvelA gorA sahelANIothI UbharAtI dariyAkinArAnI ekathI eka caDiyAtI bIca' hoTelo joI, sUryaprakAzamAM raMga badalatI cemarelanI dharatI joI, TharI gayelA jvALAmukhInuM mukha (Crater) joyuM, eka moTA zrImaMta zrIrAmaphalananuM eka hajAra ekara karatAM vadhu moTuM zeraDInuM khetara joyuM, videzI hUMDiyAmaNa kamAvI ApanAra enyuriyama (Anthurium) puSpa jyAM hajAronI saMkhyAmAM ugADavAmAM Ave che, evA bagIcA joyA, bAremAsa ane covIse kalAka jorajorathI satata ghUghavato gigarIno tophAnI dariyo joyo ane bIjuM ghaNuM badhuM joyuM, paNa mevAsiMganA beTAno prasaMga e badhAMne bhulAve evo hato.

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7 mevAsiMgano beTo | moriziyasanI be aThavADiyAno pravAsa pUro karI ane bhArata pAchA AvyA ane sau potapotAnA rojiMdA jIvanamAM gUMthAI gayA. tyAra pachI keTalAka samaya pachI jANavA maLyuM hatuM ke hRdayaroganA trIjA bhAre humalAne kAraNe mevAsiMganuM avasAna thayuM hatuM. emanA avasAnanA samAcAra amArA mATe du:khada hatA, paraMtu vadhu duHkhada samAcAra e hatA ke emanA avasAnanI potAne tarata gaMdha AvatAM rAmue rokakaLa karI mUkI hatI. mevAsiMganA zabane jyAre laI javAyuM tyAre eNe gharamAM bebAkaLA banIne Amatema doDAdoDa karI mUkI hatI. ane pachI thAkIne zAMta thayA pachI mevAsige jyAM deha choDyo tyAM e divasa-rAta sUnamUna besI rahyo. vAraMvAra ApavA chatAM na e kazuM khAya ke na pIe. enuM zarIra karamAvA lAgyuM ane sAtame divase rAmunA jIvanano paNa aMta Avyo. pitA-putranI eka virala joDIe A duniyAmAMthI kAyamane mATe vidAya lIdhI.

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rekTAvika pahoMcatAM uttara eTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAM iMglenDanI uttare laMDanathI lagabhaga hajAreka mAIla dUra AIsalenDa nAmano nAno TApu Avelo che. ghaNAM varSo sudhI DenmArkanA eka saMsthAna tarIke rahyA pachI I.sa. 1944thI AIsalenDa svataMtra prajAsattAka rASTra banyuM che. 1960nI AsapAsa jyAre meM uttara dhruvanI zodhasaphara' nAmanI lekhamALA 'kumAra' mAsikamAM lakhI hatI tyAre A TApunA nAmano ullekha vAraMvAra Avato, kAraNa ke iMglenDa, holenDa, norve, DenmArka vagerenA zodhakarIo jyAre uttara dhruva tarapha zodhasaphara mATe vahANamAM UpaDatA tyAre emano pahelo mukAma A TharI gayelA jvALAmukhIonA ane gleziyaronA pradezamAM thato. tyArathI A TApu najare jovAnI mane manamAM IcchA thayelI, paNa te sAkAra thaze evI to svapna paNa kalpanA na hatI. caMdranI saphara karyA pachI avakAzayAtrI nIla ArmasTroge jyAre AIsalenDanI mulAkAta lIdhI hatI tyAre eNe kahyuM ke, "caMdranI dharatI ane AIsalaeNnDanI dharatImAM bahu pharaka nathI. caMdranI dharatI jemane jovI hoya teo AIsalenDanI dharatI jue to pachI TheTha caMdra sudhI emane javAnI jarUra nahi rahe.' " AIsalenDano pravAsa karIe tyAre TharI gayelA javALAmukhIono seMkaDo mAIlono vanaspatirahita pradeza kevo hoya te najare jovA maLe. reyAvika ane bIjAM traNacAra zaheromAM, bahArathI khAtara lAvI, anukULa havAmAna karI nAnAM nAnAM jhADapAna have ugADavAmAM AvyAM che. AIsalenDa javAnI IcchA to keTalAMka varSathI karI hatI, paraMtu tyAM javAnI anukULatu phakata jUna-julAI-oNgasTamAM ja maLe ane e cUkI jaIe to bIjA varSa para vAta jAya. saddabhAgye 19ranA julAImAM amArA mitradaMpatI laMDananivAsI zrI abhayabhAI mahetA ane maMgaLAbahena sAthe iMglenDathI AIsalenDano amAro pravAsa aNadhAya goThavAyo. . ame AIsalenDa eNraIceland Air)mAM AIsalenDanA pATanagara reyAvika (Reyyank - emAM Jno uccAra ya thAya che) javAnAM hatAM. phlAITa lagabhaga rAtre ATheka vAge hatI. sAMje ame laMDanamAM gharethI nIkaLyAM tyAre sUrya pazcima dizAmAM DhaLavA Avyo hato. laMDanamAM bahu ochA divasa sarakho suryAsta jovA maLe eTale jyAre evI taka maLe tyAre jovAnuM game paNa kharuM. hithro eraporTa para pahoMcIne imigrezana kasTamsa

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reyAvika pahoMcatAM vagerenI badhI vidhi patAvIne ame amArA vimAna mATenA geTa pAsenA lonjamAM beThAM. moTA pAradarzaka kAcamAMthI kSitija para sUrya asta thaI rahyAnuM ramaNIya dazya ame nihALI rahyAM hatAM. chellI salAma karI sUrya kSitijanI nIce UtarI gayo. enI vidAya pachI pazcimAkAzamAM prasarelI rAtI pILI surakhI paNa vilIna thaI gaI ane AkAzamAMthI aMdhakAranA oLA UtarI AvyA. samaya thatAM sUcanA apAI eTale AIsalenDa eNranA vimAnamAM ame dAkhala thayAM. abhayabhAI ane maMgaLAbahenanI sITa AgaLanI hAramAM hatI. mArI ane mArAM patnInI sITa thoDI pAchaLanI hAramAM hatI. niyata samaye vimAna UpaDyuM ane thoDI vAramAM lagabhaga pAMtrIsa hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe UDavA lAgyuM. havAmAna svaccha hatuM. AkAzamAM rAtrino aMdhakAra chavAI gayo hato. bArI pAse amane beThaka maLI hatI. bArImAMthI AkAzamAM koI koI tAralA dekhAtA hatA. lagabhaga aDadhA kalAka pachI bhojana ApavAnuM cAlu thayuM. daramiyAna vimAnanI bArImAMthI bahAra najara karI rahelAM mArAM patnIe mane kahyuM : 'juo to, AkAzamAM kSitija upara rAtI surakhI dekhAya che !' meM joyuM to AkAzamAM kSitijano thoDo bhAga sAce ja rAto dekhAvA lAgyo hato. 'jANe aruNodaya thavAno hoya evuM dekhAya che ! haju hamaNAM to rAta paDI. ATalI thoDI vAramAM zuM sUryodaya thaze ?' mArAM patnIe pUchyuM. AkAza sAme dhyAnathI ame jotAM rahyAM tyAM to kSitija upara kharekhara sUryanI kinArI dekhAvA lAgI ane dhIme dhIme sUrya upara AvavA mAMDyo. AkAzamAM ajavALuM vadhatuM gayuM. aDadhA kalAkamAM to Akho goLa lAlaghUma sUrya kSitija upara AvI gayo. zuM IMglenDa ane AIsalenDa vacce bAra kalAkano taphAvata che ke ATalo jaladI sUryodaya jovA maLe ? nA, eTalo taphAvata to nathI. to pachI AkAzamAM sUryodaya thayo te zuM khoTo haze? nA, e paNa khoTo nathI, kAraNa ke kSitija para dhIme dhIme sUryane upara Avato ame sAkSAt joyo. paNa sUryodaya vakhate AkAzamAM jeTaluM teja patharAya che teTaluM ja teja atyAre patharAyuM nahotuM. vaLI kSitija para Avelo sUrya have AkAzamAM upara caDato nahoto, eTaluM ja nahi, jANe risAyo hoya tema pAcho e kSitijanI nIce UtaravA lAgyo. vastutaH e sUryodaya nahoto, sUryAsta ja hato. iMglenDamAM sUryAsta thaI gayA pachI ame vimAnamAM lagabhaga pAMtrIsa hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe ane kalAkanA Azare chaso mAIlanI jhaDape uttara dizAmAM 500 akSAMzathI 64 akSAMza tarapha AgaLa vadhI rahyAM hatAM. eTale eno e ja asta thaI gayelo sUrya pharI amane dekhAyo. vimAna AgaLa vadhatAM jANe te kSitijanI upara Avato hoya tema jaNAyo.

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pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana thoDI vAramAM to pharI pAcho sUrya asta thaI gayo. AkAzamAM aMdhAruM chavAI gayuM. ane pAchA pelA tAralAo TamaTamatA dekhAvA lAgyA. Ama, eka ja divasamAM amane be vAra sUryAsta jovA maLyo. jIvanamAM javalle ja jovA maLe evo A eka anokho anubhava hato. bhojana pachI ame amArI sITa badalAvI. abhayabhAI mArI pAse AvIne beThA ane mArAM patnI maMgaLAbahenanI pAse jaine beThAM. 10 AisalaeNnDamAM ame pahelI vAra jatAM hatAM ane hoTela vagere nizcita karI lIdhAM hatAM. chatAM eka taddana ajANyA ghaNe dUranA ThaMDA dezamAM ame jai rahyAM hatAM eno amane romAMca paNa hato. AisalaeNnDamAM sAmAnya mANasanI daSTie jovAnuM bahu ochuM gaNAya. kharcanuM vaLatara na maLyuM evuM lAge. bIjI bAju jene bhaugolika, aitihAsika, sAMskRtika vagere dRSTie jovuM hoya tene mATe ghaNuM badhuM jovAnuM che ema kahI zakAya. pRthvInA uttara goLArdhamAM 661/2 DigrI akSAMza paranA dhruva vartuLa(Arctic circle)ne aDIne AvelA A TApumAM basothI vadhu TharI gayelA jvALAmukhIo che. tyAMnuM pIvAnuM pANI paNa gaMdhakanI gaMdhavALuM hoya che. gaMdhakavALA dhagadhagatA garama pANInA phuvArA keTaleka sthaLe UDe che, jene AisalaeNnDanI bhASAmAM 'geyasara' kahe che. enA uparathI 'gIjhara' zabda AkhI duniyAmAM pracalita banI gayo che. norve ane DenmArkamAMthI IsavIsananA AThamAnavamA saikAmAM sAhasika vAikiMga lokoe (norsamenoe) A nirjana TApu upara vasavATa cAlu karelo. emanA vaMzajo te atyAranA AisalaeNnDara. abhayabhAIe vAta karatAM jaNAvyuM ke emanI bAjunI sITa para beThelA sajjana te AisalaeNnDanA vatanI che. iMglaeNnDathI teo pAchA pharI rahyA che. AisalaeNnDamAM kaMI kAma hoya to emaNe potAnuM A kArDa ApyuM che. kArDamAM nAma hatuM. mi. skuDara. emAM reyAvikanuM saranAmuM ane phona naMbara hatAM. abhayabhAIe kahyuM, 'ApaNuM badhuM goThavAyeluM che eTale to bIjI kazI jarUra nathI. paNa emaNe sAmethI kahyuM eTale sAruM lAgyuM.' meM kahyuM, 'Ama ekaMdare to AisalaeNnDanI prajA maLatAvaDA svabhAvanI che. A bhAI paNa maLatAvaDA jaNAya che. laMDananA eNrapaoNrTa upara paNa ApaNA geTanA lonjamAM teo keTalAka pravAsIo sAthe gapATA mAratA hatA.' abhayabhAIe kahyuM, 'emanAM patnI eNrapaoNrTa para gADI laIne teDavA AvavAnAM che. temaNe ApaNane hoTela para mUkI javAnuM kahyuM, paNa ApaNe cAra jaNa chIe eTale e zakya nathI.' thoDI vAto karI ame pharI sITa badalAvI. abhayabhAI potAnI sITa para gayA ane mArAM patnI pAchAM AvyAM. For,Private & Personal Use Only

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rekmAvika pahocatAM thoDI vAranA virAma pachI vimAnamAM jAherAta thaI : 'DyUTI phrI (jakAtamukta) vastuonuM vecANa cAlu thAya che.' be eNrahosTesa eka TraoNlImAM skoca vhiskInA bATalA ane sigareTanAM paeNkeTa laIne nIkaLI. je dezamAM enA para sarakArI jakAta ghaNI hoya tyAMnA keTalAya rahevAsIo potAnA dezanA kAyadA pramANe jeTalA levAya eTalAM dArUsigareTa letA hoya che. videzI nAgarikone paNa e haka hoya che. abhayabhAI UThIne pharI mArI pAse AvyA. emaNe kahyuM, 'pelA bhAI, mi. kuMDara vinaMtI kare che ke emanA vatI DyUTI phrI vhiskIno bATalo ApaNe paNa levo. paisA teo ApI deze. ApaNe to kasTamsamAM pasAra thatI vakhate te ApaNA hAthamAM rAkhavAno che ane pachI bahAra nIkaLyA pachI emane ApI devAno che.' 11 duniyAnA ghaNA dezomAM videzathI AvatAM havAI jahAjamAM banatI A sAmAnya ghaTanA che. sArA zrImaMta mANaso paNa DyUTI phrI vastuo levAnI lAlacane rokI zakatA nathI. jyAM jakAta vadhAre hoya che ane dezanI Arthika sthiti sAdhAraNa ke nabaLI hoya che tyAM to potAnA vatI bIjA paNa te levAmAM madada kare e mATe musApharo tapAsa karatA rahe che. mi. skuDaranI vAta e koI navAInI vAta na hatI. ema chatAM meM abhayabhAIne kahyuM, 'skuDare premathI vinaMtI karI che. paNa dArU-sigareTa to ApaNe mATe varjya che. amAro to vaLI niyama paNa che ke AvI rIte bIjAne mATe paNa na levuM. to tame amArA vatI emanI mAphI mAgo.' 'mArI paNa bilakula IcchA nathI. paNa mane nA kahetAM saMkoca thato hato. paraMtu have tame nA kaho che eTale amAre mATe paNa anukULa thaI gayuM. vaLI videzanI sapharamAM to AvuM na ja karavuM joie.' abhayabhAIe kahyuM. skuDaranI najara amArA tarapha hatI. eNrahosTeso temanA oNrDaranI rAha jotI hatI. abhayabhAIe izArAthI amArA vatI emane nA kahI dIdhI. ethI mi. skuDarano hasato cahero tarata nArAja thayelo dekhAyo. abhayabhAI pAchA potAnI jagyAe jaI beThA. skuDara potAnI jagyAethI UbhA thayA ane chellI sITa sudhI rAunDa mArI AvyA. teo keTalAkanI sAthe vAta karI AvyA. ema lAgyuM ke temaNe sAteka videzI pravAsIo sAthe A rIte goThavaNa karI haze. temaNe te badhA vatI DaoNlara cUkavyA. eNrahosTeso A paddhati jANatI ja hoya che, kAraNa ke A rojanI ghaTanA hatI. vimAnanA ghaNA karmacArIo pote paNa A paddhatino lAbha uThAvatA hoya che. amAruM vimAna have rekyAvika pahoMcavA AvyuM. vimAnanA utarANanI sUcanA apAI. rekyAvika pAse keTlAvika (KEFLAVIK) nAmanA sthaLe AvelA AMtararASTrIya mathake amAruM vimAna UtaryuM. pravAsIo UtaravA lAgyA. ghaNAkharAnA hAthamAM dArU '

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana sigareTanI plAsTikanI moTI raMgaberaMgI sarasa kothaLIo hatI. je dezamAM AMtararASTrIya vimAnamathake vimAnonI avarajavara bahu na hoya ane kasTamsanuM cekiMga sakhata hoya tyAM musApharonI lAIna lAMbI thaI jAya ane jaladI na khase evo anubhava ahIM kalAvikanA eNraporTamAM paNa thayo. badhA potapotAno sAmAna traNa paiDAMvALI TrolImAM mUkI dhIme dhIme AgaLa khasatAM jatAM hatAM. ame joyuM ke sphaDara lAInamAM ghaNA AgaLa hatA. emano vAro Avyo. kasTamsamAMthI te bahAra nIkaLyA. temanI patnI temane teDavA AvyAM hatAM te dekhAyuM. teo hiskInA bATalA nakkI karelA pravAsIo pAsethI ugharAvI letA hatA. amAro vAro Avyo. kasTamsamAMthI ame bahAra nIkaLyA. ame sphaDara sAme joyuM. paNa have jANe kaMI oLakhANa na hoya tevuM emanA caherA para dekhAyuM. svArthanI pUrti ke apUrtinA pratibhAvo mANasanA caherA upara tarata paDyA vagara rahetA nathI. vihaskInA bATalA meLavanAra sphaDaranA caherA upara koI moTo vijaya meLavyo hoya evo utsAha ane garvano bhAva dekhAto hato. teo haju eka musApharanI rAha jotA hatA. skuDaranI bAjumAM traNeka AIsalenDara UbhA hatA. temanI vAtacIta ane dekhAva parathI lAgyuM ke teo zaheramAMthI vhiskI kharIdavA AvyA haze. paraMtu bhAvanI AnAkAnI thatI hoya evuM anumAna thayuM. chello pravAsI nIkaLatAM sphaDare eno bATalo paNa laIne TraoNlImAM mUkyo. plAsTikanI kothaLI kADhI nAkhIne TrolImAM uparanI jALImAM teo bATalA UbhA goThavatA hatA. ATheka bATalA haze. phuDarane A vecANamAMthI sAro taDAko paDaze ema amane lAgyuM. ame eNraporTanA makAnanI bahAra nIkaLyAM. reDyAvika zahera mATenI amArI basa thoDe dUra UbhI hatI. ThaMDo pavana susavATA karato pheMkAto hato. rAtano vakhata hato. phUTapAtha para amArI sAmAnanI TraoNlI haMkAratAM ame basa pAse pahoMcyAM ane sAmAna mUkI basamAM goThavAyAM. basanI bArImAMthI meM joyuM to sphaDaranI AsapAsa gharAko vIMTaLAI vaLyA hatA ane sphaDara te darekanI sAthe AnAkAnI karatA TrolI sAthe AgaLa vadhatA hatA. ema karatAM kheMcatANa vadhI. AIsalenDanI bhASA samajAtI nahotI. paraMtu phuDaranI bhASAmAM garvane raNakAra anubhavAto hato. amArI basa AgaLathI sphaDara pasAra thayA. gharAkomAMthI chUTavA have emaNe jhaDapathI TraoNlI calAvI, paNa gharAko pAchaLa doDyA ethI sphaDare doTa mUkI. paraMtu ema karatAM AchA ajavALAmAM emanI TrolInuM eka paiDuM phUTapAthanI kinArInI nIce UtarI paDyuM. moTo dhabAko thayo. TrolI UMdhI vaLI gaI. hiskInA badhA bATalA phaTI gayA. kAca phUTavAnA moTA avAja thayA. kSaNavAramAM havAmAM vhiskInI tIvra gaMdha

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kyAvika pahocatAM prasarI gaI. phuDara roSe bharAyA. gharAko tarata ja AghApAchA thaI gayA. kuMDaranI patnI doDatI AvI pahoMcI. baMnenA caherA raDamasa thaI gayA. sukhada nATaka acAnaka karuNAMta banI gayuM. dilasojI darzAvavA basamAMthI nIce UtaravAnuM amane mana thayuM, paNa basa UpaDavAnI taiyArImAM hatI. vaLI videzamAM AvI aupacArikatA koIkane game ke na paNa game. meM abhayabhAIne kahyuM, joyuM ? skuDarane koIe madada na karI. badhA bhAgI gayA." abhayabhAIe kahyuM, 'paNa ramaNabhAI, ApaNe emane madada karI te kema bhUlI gayA ?' ApaNe madada karI ? kyAre ?' 'ADakatarI rIte ApaNe madada ja karI che. sAruM thayuM ke ApaNe emanA vatI hiskI kharIdI nahi. kharIdI hota to ApaNA cAra bATalAnuM emane vadhAre nuksAna thAta.' abhayabhAInI vAta sAcI hatI. amArI basa UpaDI. jIvanamAM ghaTanAo kevA krame kevA saMketapUrvaka banatI hoya che tenI carcA-vicAraNAmAM ame paDI gayAM. eTalI vAramAM to basa amArI hoTela pAse AvIne UbhI rahI.

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kievano gAIDa vikTara pUrva yuropamAM kALA samudranA kinAre AvelA yukreIna rAjayanuM pATanagara kieva (Kiev) duniyAnAM keTalAMka ramaNIya nagaromAMnuM eka che. I.sa. 1980mAM soviyeTa yuniyananA pravAsa daramiyAna ame kieva paNa javAnA hatA. maoNskono kAryakrama pUro thatAM rAtre TrenamAM besI bIje divase savAre ame kievA pahoMcI gayA. moskothI amArI sAthe AvelA be gAIDanI pharaja have pUrI thaI. mATe bIjA be gAIDa - eka yuvaka ane eka yuvatI amane levA AvI pahoMcyAM hatAM. maoNskonA gAIDe navA baMne gAIDano amane paricaya karAvyo ane potAnI pharaja pUrI thatI hovAthI amArI vidAya lIdhI. amArA pravAsanuM Ayojana soviyeTa yuniyananI mukhya TUrisTa ejansI InaTUrisTa dvArA thayuM hatuM. maoNskonA baMne gAIDanI jema ahIM paNa yuvake gherA lAla raMganuM zarTa ane nIce AchA badAmI raMganuM penTa paheryuM hatuM. yuvatInuM paNa e pramANe uparanuM vastra lAla raMganuM ane nIcenuM skarTa AchA badAmI raMganuM hatuM. lAla raMga evo che ke ghaNe dUrathI paNa joI zakAya. svecchAe bahu ochA loko AvA gherA lAla bhaDaka raMganuM vastra paheravAnuM pasaMda kare. paraMtu soviyeTa yuniyanamAM pharaja upara rahelA karmacArIe to potAnI kaMpanI kahe te pramANe vastraparidhAna karavAnuM rahetuM. sTezanamAMthI ame gAIDanI pAchaLa pAchaLa bahAra nIkaLyA. ahIM majUranI prathA nahotI eTale dareke potAno sAmAna hAthe ja UMcakavAno hato. ame basamAM goThavAyA. baMne gAIDe amane AvakAra Apyo ane potAno paricaya Apyo. amArA gAIDanuM nAma hatuM vikTara. gAIDa yuvatInuM nAma hatuM IDA. baMne hasamukha hatAM. paraMtu temanA bolavAmAM soviyeTa yuniyananI kaDaka dhAkano aNasAra samajadArane AvyA vagara rahe nahi. teo ochuM bole, samajAvavAnuM badhuM ja samajAve, paNa evA hoziyAra che tamArA praznano javAba yuktipUrvaka TALI de. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM te vakhate prajA ekaMdare eTalI dabAyelI hatI ke javalle ja koI be-cAra mANaso aMdaraaMdara vAdavivAda kare. ajANyAnI sAthe to teo bole paNa nahi eTaluM ja nahi, smita paNa na pharakAve. sTalinanA vakhatanI e dhAka hajI paNa cAlu rahelI varatAtI hatI. dareka jagyAe pharaja upara ochAmAM ochI be vyaktio hoya ja ane e baMne vyakti 14

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kievano gAIDa vikTara ekabIjI upara dekharekha rAkhe, kyAreka jAsUsI paNa kare. rAjaya viruddha koI bolatuM hoya to tarata bIjI vyakti cADI khAya ke jethI gunAmAMthI pote bacI jAya. sTeline rAjya viruddha abhiprAya uccAranArA keTalAya lokone marAvI nAkhyA hatA; anekane jela bhegA karI dIdhA hatA ke sAIbiriyAnI kaDakaDatI ThaMDImAM kaoNnsanTezana kempanI aMdara dhakelI dIdhA hatA ke jyAM sakhata majUrI karIne ane ThaMDImAM ThUMThavAIne teo thoDA vakhatamAM motane zaraNa thatA. 1980mAM presiDenTa bejhanevanA vakhatamAM sTelinanAM pUtaLAM nIkaLI gayAM hatAM, paNa vAtAvaraNa haju evuM ja bhayabhIta ane taMga hatuM. amArA pravAsa daramiyAna ame joyuM hatuM ke sTelina vize, lekhaka sojhenitsina vize ke evA bIjA koI saMvedanazIla viSaya vize koI eka zabda paNa uccAravA taiyAra na hatuM. koI e vize gAIDane prazna kare to gAIDa tarata ja kahI de ke 'maherabAnI karIne mane e vize prazna pUchazo nahi.' - amArI basa cAlI. kievano paricaya ApatAM vikaTare kahyuM, 'kieva soviyeTa yuniyananuM jUnAmAM jUnuM zahera che. paMdaraso varSa pahelAM enI sthApanA thayelI. agiyAramAM saikAmAM kievana rUsa' nAmanuM A moTuM zaktizALI rAjaya hatuM. tyAre raziyA ane yukreIna evAM judAM rAjyo nahotAM, paNa rUsa nAmanuM eka ja vizALa rAjya hatuM. emAM yukreIna, raziyana ane bAyaloraziyana evI traNa mukhya prajAo hatI ane te paraspara sumeLathI rahetI. jyAre paNa bahArathI kievana rUsa upara koI caDAI thatI tyAre traNe prajA saMgaThita thaIne barAbara sAmano karatI, paraMtu soLamA saikAmAM bahAranAM AkramaNa sAme kievana rUsa TakI zakyuM nahi. te vakhate yukreIna ane raziyA evA be TukaDA thayA. sattaramA saikAmAM pharI yukreina ane raziyA eka thaI gayAM. 1917nA oNkaTobaramAM raziyAmAM jyAre krAMti thaI tyAre yukeInane svataMtra rAjya tarIke mAnyatA maLI. khaLakhaLa vahetI nIpara nadInA kinAre AveluM kieva zahera raLiyAmaNuM lAgyuM. vRkSo ane makAno bane sohAmaNAM hatAM. vikTare kahyuM, 'kieva yukreinanI prAcIna nagarI che, paNa tame mane kahezo ke A badhAM makAno keTalAM jUnAM haze ?' amArAmAMthI koIke kahyuM, 'doDhaso-baso varSa jUnAM to haze ja." vikaTare kahyuM, "nA, A makAno lagabhaga pAMtrIsa varSathI vadhAre jUnAM nathI." sAce ja ?' 'hA. bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate jarmanIe kALA samudrane raste yukreIna upara AkramaNa karyuM. 1941 thI 1945 sudhI bhayaMkara laDAI thaI. lAkho mANaso mAryA gayA. AkhuM kieva baoNmbamArAmAM jamInadosta thaI gayuM. jarmanIe yukreIna upara kabajo meLavavA ghaNo bhoga Apyo. paraMtu amArI prajA khamIravALI. amArA sainikoe bhAre pratikAra karyo. chevaTe ame jItyA. vijaya pachI amArA loko eTalA kAmamAM lAgI gayA ke doDha

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana be varSamAM to jANe AkhuM nagara navesarathI baMdhAI gayuM. eTale to soviyeTa yuniyane kievane bahAdura nagarI'no IlkAba Apyo hato. thoDAMka varSamAM to yukreina khetIvADI ane vepAraudyoga, vijJAna ane TekanolojI, saMgIta ane nATyakalA vagere ghaNI bAbatomAM soviyeTa yuniyananuM atyaMta pragatizIla rAjaya banI gayuM. have gAIDa yuvatI IDAe mAIka hAthamAM lIdhuM. eNe kahyuM, tame hamaNAM joI te nIpara nadI yukreInanI sauthI moTI nadI che. baMne kAMThe nAnImoTI TekarIo vaccethI te vahe che. nIparane lIdhe yukreinanI bhUmi phaLadrupa che. AbohavA gamI jAya evI mAphaka che. kielamAM cesTanaTa, mepala ane poplaranA ghaTAdAra vRkSo naisargika sauMdaryamAM vRddhi kare che. amArA lokono vRkSaprema eTalo badho che ke yukreInanA sarakArI pratIka tarIke cesTanaTanuM vRkSa che.' amArI basa hoTela para AvI pahoMcI. hoTelanuM nAma paNa nIpara hatuM. hoTelamAM dAkhala thayA pachI amArA badhAnA pAsaporTa laI levAmAM AvyA ane visA kArDa ApavAmAM AvyAM. darekane rUmanI cAvI ApavAmAM AvI ane snAna vagerethI paravAravA mATe kalAkano samaya ApavAmAM Avyo. cA-nAsto kyAM pachI amane zaheramAM pharavA laI gayA. basamAM AgaLanI sITamAM besavA maLyuM eTale vikTara sAthe vAtacIta karavAnI mane taka maLI. vikaTara yuvAna ane hasamukho hato. teNe yunivarsiTImAM anusnAtaka kakSAno abhyAsa karyo hato. raziyana sAhitya eno mukhya viSaya hato. aMgrejI bhASA upara tenuM prabhutva sAruM hatuM. huM muMbaI yunivarsiTImAM sAhityanA viSayano adhyApaka chuM e jANIne vikaTarane paNa mArI sAthe vAta karavAnuM gamyuM. eka vizALa rastA AgaLathI basa pasAra thaI tyAre eNe mane kahyuM, (DaoN. zAha, tamane jANIne AnaMda thaze ke A sTrITanuM nAma tostoya sTrITa che.' taoNstoyanuM nAma sAMbhaLI mane emanA vatana yAsnAyA poliyAnAnI mulAkAtanuM smaraNa tAjuM thayuM. amane prathama seMTa sophiyAnuM carcA jovA laI gayA. soviyeTa yuniyananuM te jUnAmAM jUnuM carca che. tyAra pachI amane zaheranA madhya bhAgamAM plADimiskAyA gorakA' nAmanI TekarI para laI javAmAM AvyA. tyAMthI cArebAju patharAyelAM kieva zaheranAM ane khaLakhaLa vahetI nIpara nadInAM darzana thayAM. kievAmAM eTalAM badhAM vRkSo che ke makAno jANe vRkSonI aMdara saMtAkUkaDI ramatAM hoya ema lAge. pAchA pharatAM amane kezcArika nAmanA mukhya mArga upara laTAra mAravA mATe thoDoka samaya ApavAmAM Avyo. ApaNe jANe bajAramAM nahi paNa bagIcAmAM pharatAM hoIe evuM lAge. gAIDe kahyuM ke 'kieva zaheramAM be hajAra karatAM vadhu nAnImoTI galIo ane rastAo che. emAM eka

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17 kievano gAiDa vikaTara paNa sthaLa evuM nathI ke jyAM hArabaMdha vRkSo na hoya. kielamAM vIsa lAkhanI vastI vacce so karatAM vadhu udyAno che. kieva zaheranI aDadhA karatAM vadhu jamInano bhAga to bagIcA ane moTA udyAnomAM rokAyelo che. eTale to kieva 'udyAna-nagarI'-- Garden City tarIke prakhyAta che. nagaradarzana karI sAMje ame hoTela para pAchA pharyA. baMne gAIDe vidAya lIdhI. haju samaya hato. eTale ame hoTela pAsenA vistAramAM laTAra mAravA nIkaLyA. sAMjanA komaLa taDakAmAM vAtAvaraNa sarasa lAgatuM hatuM. lokonI avarajavara ghaNI hatI, paNa bhASAnI muzkelInA kAraNe koInI sAthe vAtacIta karavAnI zakyatA nahotI. eka sthaLe mANasonI lAIna lAgatI hatI. joyuM to sapharajanano tAjo rasa pIvA mATenI lAIna hatI. oNTomeTika mazInamAM traNa kaoNpeka nAkhIne ame paNa e rasa pIdho. ATalo sasto rasa soviyeTa yuniyana sivAya bIje kyAM maLavAno hato ? bIje divase amAro kAryakrama thoDe dUra AveluM kerAkomba (Catacomb) jovA javAno hato. keTAkomba eTale rAjakuTuMbanuM kabrastAna ke jyAM zabane "mamI' karIne rAkhavAmAM Ave. pAMsaTha phUTa UMDA kUvA jevI racanA karIne emAM mamI rAkhavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. keTalAMka varSo pahelAM khodakAma karatAM A daTAI gayeluM keTAkoba maLI AvyuM hatuM. keTAkombanI mulAkAta amAre mATe eka yAdagAra anubhava jevI banI gaI. kieva zaheranI prAcInatAnI e sAbitI hatI. kievanI A be divasanI mulAkAtamAM vikaTarane bIjA pravAsIo karatAM mArI sAthe vadhu nikaTatAthI vAta karavAnuM phAvyuM hatuM. eno amane baMnene AnaMda hato. AvA pravAsamAM gAIDane pratIkarUpa ApelI nAnI sarakhI bheTa paNa ghaNuM badhuM kAma kare che. vaLI amAro rasane viSaya paNa samAna hato. kievano be divasano pravAsa pUro thayo. have maoNsko mATe Trena pakaDavAnI hatI. Trena rAtanA doDha vAge hatI, paraMtu hoTela upara jamyA pachI bIjuM kazuM kAma na hatuM ane hoTelano cArja na caDe eTale amane kievanA sTezane rAtanA nava vAge laI AvavAmAM AvyA. eka vizALa veiTiMga rUmamAM amane badhAne besADavAmAM AvyA. have badhA pravAsIone mAtra TrenamAM besADavAnuM ja kAma gAIDo mATe bAkI rahyuM hatuM. eTale amArA be gAIDamAMthI IDAnI pharaja pUrI thatI hatI eTale te sTezana para badhAMnI vidAya laI cAlI gaI. have amArI dekharekha rAkhavA mATe phakta vikTara ja hato. vikTare kahyuM, "tame badhA ahIM ArAma karo. koIne paga lAMbA karavA hoya to ArAma khurazI paNa che. thoDIka UMgha kheMcI zako cho. Trenano TAIma thaze eTale huM tamane badhAne uThADIza. e mATe tame nizciMta rahejo. amArA mATenA alAyadA khaMDamAM huM thoDI vAra ArAma karI lauM chuM."

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana ema kahI vikaTara cAlyo gayo. aDadhA kalAka pachI mArI pAse AvIne eNe pharI pAcho dhImA sAde prazna karyo, DaoN. zAha, tame badhA mosko sTezane pahoMcI tyAMthI sIdhA eNraporTa javAnA cho, kharuM ne ?' meM kahyuM, "hA, agAu tamane kahyuM hatuM te pramANe ja amAro kAryakrama che. emAM koI pheraphAra nathI." pachI meM vikaTarane pUchyuM, 'tame A prazna mane pahelAM be vakhata pUkyo che to tenuM khAsa kaMI kAraNa che ?' vikTare kahyuM, "e huM tamane atyAre nahi kahuM.' ema kahI vikaTara bAjunA khaMDamAM cAlyo gayo. vikaTaranA gayA pachI huM vicAre caDyo. vikaTarane kazuMka kahevuM che paNa e tarata kahevA Icchato nathI tema dekhAya che. amArAmAMnA ghaNAkharA jhokAM khAtAM hatAM. aDadhA kalAka pachI vikaTare veITiMga rUmamAM pharI rAunDa mAryuM. eNe joyuM ke badhA UMdhI gayA che. phakta huM ekalo jAgato beTho chuM. eTale te mArI pAse Avyo ane bolyo, "DaoN. zAha, tamane UMgha nathI AvatI ?' meM kahyuM, "nA, mane AvI rIte jAgavAnI Teva che, paNa mane eka prazna thAya che ke tame amane, khAsa karIne mane ema kema pUkyA karyuM che ke soviyeTa yuniyanamAM A tamAro chello divasa che ?' vikTare cAre bAju najara pheravI, veiTiMga rUmamAM koI raziyana ke yukreniyana pravAsI nathI ane pharaja upara bIjuM koI dekhAtuM nathI e joI eNe mArA kAnamAM kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, tamArI sAthe ATalI AtmIyatA thaI gaI che eTale ja huM tamane kahuM chuM. AvuM pUchavAnuM kAraNa e che ke mAre tamArI sAthe thoDI khAnagI vAta karavI che. atyAra sudhI IDA pharaja upara sAthe hatI eTale huM kazuM bolyo nathI, paNa have e gaI che eTale mArI aMgata vAta tamane karI zakIza.' meM kahyuM, 'bhale, tame mArAmAM jarUra vizvAsa rAkhajo. tamArA dezanI sthiti huM jANuM chuM. eTale tamArI aMgata vAta tame jarUra mane kahI zako cho.' vikaTare kahyuM, 'paNa e aMgata vAta huM tamane atyAre nahi kahuM. haju Trena AvavAne be kalAkanI vAra che. ahIM to havA paNa vAtane laI jAya che. mATe jokhama nathI kheDavuM. mAre tamane khAnagI vAta kahevI che eTaluM kahevAmAM paNa mAre mATe ahIM jokhama gaNAya." ATaluM kahIne vikaTara pAcho potAnA khaMDamAM cAlyo gayo. huM pharI vicAre caDI gayo. vikaTarane evI te zI vAta karavI che ke je karatAM te ATalo gabharAya che. vaLI mane potAne paNa ciMtA thavA lAgI ke rakhene vikaTara evI koI vAta na karI bese ke jenA pariNAme huM paNa enI sAthe phasAu. alabatta, soviyeta sarakAra potAnA nAgariko sAthe jeTalI kaDaka che teTalI paradezIo sAthe nathI. to paNa mArA mananI aMdara tarka cAlavA lAgyA. vikTarane jAsUsInI daSTie koI vAta karavAnI haze ? ke pachI vikaTara mArI pAsethI kaMI vAta kaDhAvavA koI nATaka to nahi karato hoya ne ? e je hoya te, mAre to vikaTara je kahe te phakta sAMbhaLI ja levuM ema meM manathI nakkI karyuM.

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kievano gAiDa vikaTara 19 rAtanA doDha vAgavAmAM daseka miniTanI vAra hatI. Trena AvavAnI jAherAta thaI. vikaTara amArI pAse AvI pahocyo. sAmAna sAthe badhA pleTaphorma para pahoMcI gayAM. mane thayuM ke vikTara have potAnI aMgata khAnagI vAta karaze. huM tenI utsukatApUrvaka rAha joto rahyo. Trena pleTaphorma para AvI, paNa vikaTare kazI vAta mane karI nahi. te to darekane potapotAnI kebinamAM besADavAnI vyavasthAmAM paDI gayo. Trena daseka miniTa UbhI rahevAnI hatI. badhAM potapotAnI kebinamAM goThavAI gayAM. vikTara potAnI pharaja bajAvavAmAM magna banI gayo. jANe ke pelI vAta ja bhUlI gayo na hoya! mane paNa mArI kebinamAM beThA pachI lAgyuM ke mAre paNa sAmethI vikTarane pUchavAnI zI jarUra? jo tene kahevAnI IcchA haze to kaheze. paraMtu badhA goThavAI gayA pachI darekanI vidAya laI vikTara chelle mArI kebinamAM Avyo. eNe kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, basa tamArI vidAya levA Avyo chuM. ApaNe pharI kyAre maLIzuM e to khabara nathI. kadAca jiMdagImAM pharI na paNa maLIe." pachI vikTara mane kebinamAMthI bahAra bolAvI gayo. TaoNIleTa pAsenI jagyAmAM eka khUNAmAM UbhA rahIne dhIme sAde kahyuM, "mAre tamane je aMgata vAta karavAnI che te ATalI che. be divasa tame mane khUba hasato-hasAvato joyo che. eTale tame ema bolelA ke huM keTalo sukhI chuM. paraMtu mAre khAnagImAM tamane eTaluM ja kahevuM che ke huM sukhI nathI. huM bahu du:khI chuM. mAre ghara che, patnI che, bALako che, paNa amane ahIM vANIsvAtaMtrya nathI ane vikAsanI koI taka nathI. tame TheTha bhAratathI soviyeTa yuniyanamAM amArA nagara sudhI AvI zako cho, paraMtu tame mAnazo, mArI trIsa varSanI umara thavA AvI chatAM mosko javAnI taka haju mane maLI nathI. meM inaTUrisTamAM gAIDa tarIkenI nokarI svecchAe svIkArI lIdhI che ke jethI soviyeTa yuniyanamAM bIjA koI pradezamAM mane DyUTI maLe to eTaluM to javAnI taka maLe, paraMtu haju sudhI kieva choDIne bIje kyAMya mane pharaja para mUkavAmAM Avyo nathI. basa, tamane joIne huM bahu ja rAjI thayo chuM, paNa huM ahIM bahu du:khI chuM evI meM tamane kahelI vAta khAnagI rAkhaje. bIjA koI adhikArIne karazo nahi. tame mosko pahoMcIne tarata soviyeTa yuniyana choDavAnA cho ane mane tamArAmAM vizvAsa che eTale ja meM hiMmata karIne ATalI mArI vAta karI che. nahi to huM eTalI vAta paNa koIne na kahuM.' ATaluM kahetAM kahetAM to vikaTaranI AMkho bhInI thaI gaI. huM paNa bhAvAdri banI gayo. Trena UpaDavAnI sITI vAgI eTale mArI sAthe hAtha milAvI vikTara nIce Utaryo. huM daravAjA pAse Ubho rahyo. Trena cAlI. ame baMne ekabIjA sAme jotA chevaTa sudhI hAtha halAvatA rahyA.

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G pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana mArI kebinamAM jaIne sUto. paraMtu AkhI rAta mane UMgha na AvI. vikTaranA ja vicAra AvatA rahyA. eka atizaya sakhata rAjazAsananI paddhatine kAraNe eka tejasvI yuvAnanI kArakirdI keTalI badhI raMdhAI jAya che te najare jovA maLyuM. ATalAM varSo thayAM chatAM vikaTarane pharI maLavAnuM thayuM nathI. A jiMdagImAM vikaTara pharI maLaze evI koI zakyatA paNa nathI. paraMtu pote duHkhI che phakata eTaluM ja kahevA mATe paNa eka navayuvAnane keTalI badhI hiMmata ekaThI karavI paDI e ghaTanAnuM vismaraNa kayAreya thaze nahi.

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TorAnTomAM zAkAhAra pariSada keneDAnuM pATanagara oTavA (Ottawa) che, paraMtu enuM moTAmAM moTuM zahera TorAnTo che. (Torontono uccAra teo TorAnTo ke torAnto kare che.) keneDAmAM IMgliza uparAMta phrenca bhASA bolanArAonI saMkhyA paNa ghaNA moTA pramANamAM che. I.sa. 1987nA julAI mahinAmAM TorAnTo zaheramAM tyAMnA vejiTeriyana eNsosiyezana taraphathI vizva zAkAhAra pariSadanuM Ayojana karavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. judA judA dezanA ane judA judA dharmanA zAkAhArI pratinidhione te mATe nimaMtraNa ApavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. traNa divasanI A AMtararASTrIya pariSadamAM carcA-vicAraNAno eka viSaya hato dharma ane zAkAhAra' (Religion and Vegetarianism). A pariSadamAM jaina dharma ane zAkAhAra' e viSaya upara nibaMdha vAMcavA tathA e viSayanI carcA-vicAraNAmAM bhAga levA mATe mane nimaMtraNa maLyuM hatuM. viSaya managamato hato ane badhI suvidhA Ayojako taraphathI thavAnI hatI. eTale e nimaMtraNano meM svIkAra karyo hato. julAI mahinAmAM huM ane mArAM patnI TorAnTo pahocyAM. amAro utAro ToronTonA jaina kAryakartA daMpatI zrI ramaNIkalAla koThArI ane zrImatI bhadrAbahena koThArIne tyAM rAkhavAmAM Avyo hato. teo TorAnTonA eNrapaoNrTa upara amane levA AvyAM tyAre temanI sAthe pahelavahelo paricaya thayo. ravivAre savAre dasa vAge pariSadanuM uddaghATana thayuM. A pariSada TorAnTo yunivarsiTImAM yojavAmAM AvI hatI. ramaNIkalAla koThArInA gharethI TorAnTo yunivarsiTI sudhInuM aMtara moTarakAramAM Azare eka kalAka jeTaluM hatuM. ajANyA sthaLe zodhatAM vAra lAge eTalA mATe, tathA pariSadanA rajisTrezananI ane bIjI aupacArika bAbato mATe ame tyAM vahelA pahoMcavAnuM nakkI karyuM hatuM. savAre ATha vAgatAM to ame TorAnTo yunivarsiTI upara pahoMcI gayAM. tyAM tapAsa karatAM jANyuM ke yunivarsiTInA eka makAnamAM nIcenA eka khaMDamAM pariSadanuM kAyAlaya rAkhavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. tyAM keTalAka karmacArIo beThA hatA. mAre patravyavahAra thayo hato pariSadanA eka maMtrI zrI pITara mevina sAthe. beThelA kAryakartAomAM zrI pITara mekvina koNa che te jANIne meM temane mAro paricaya Apyo. patravyavahArathI to ame ekabIjAnA nAmathI suparicita hatA. mane jotAM ja pITare kahyuM aho, DaoNkaTara zAha ! tame AvI gayA ? bahu AnaMda thayo. tame patramAM lakhyuM che ke

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22 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana tamAro nibaMdha vahelo maLe eTalA mATe tame koI mitra dvArA mokalAvyo che, paNa haju sudhI amane te maLyo nathI. tame bIjI nakala lAvyA cho ? meM tarata mArA niMbadhanI bIjI nakala pITaranA hAthamAM mUkI. nibaMdha maLatAM teo rAjI thayA, kAraNa ke temanA jaNAvyA pramANe keTalAka pratinidhionA nibaMdho haju AvyA na hatA. teo sAthe lAvavAnA hatA. vaLI keTalAka maukhika rajUAta karavAnA hatA. pITare kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, amAre eka muzkelI UbhI thaI che. cInathI bauddha dharma ane zAkAhAra' vize bolanAra pratinidhino saMdeza Avyo che ke teo have AvI zake tema nathI. ahIM sthAnika eka mahilA prAdhyApakane e vize nibaMdha vAMcavAnuM meM kahyuM che. temaNe e kAma svIkAryuM che, paraMtu praznottarI temane phAvaze nahi. tame bhAratathI Avo cho * ane bauddha dharma vize paNa tame aMgrejImAM pustikA lakhI che ane te meM joI che. mArI IcchA che ke bauddha dharma vize nibaMdhavAcana pachI je carcA thAya temAM tame paNa bhAga lo ane praznonA uttara Apo.' pITaranI e darakhAstano meM saharSa svIkAra karyo. pariSada mATe pITare mArI pAse rajisTrezana phorma bharAvyuM. zAkAhAra vizenI patrikAonuM mArA mATe taiyAra rAkhavAmAM AveluM eka pekeTa temaNe mane ApyuM. ane te rAkhavA mATe eka khAlI pholDara paNa ApyuM. vaLI pITare kahyuM, 'DaoN. zAha, pariSadanA pratinidhi tarIkenuM tamArA nAmanuM kArDa huM tamane banAvI ApuM chuM.' pITare eka koruM kArDa ane te mATenuM plAsTika kavara lIdhuM. temAM mAruM nAma lakhavA mATe teo pena zodhavA lAgyA. meM kahyuM, 'lo, pena che mArI pAse.meM mArI kALI skeca-pena pITarane ApI. pITare kahyuM, "vAha, A skeca-pena to ghaNI sArI che. jADA moTA kALA akSare tamAruM nAma lakhI zakAze.' meM kahyuM, 'e to vadhAre sAruM. lokone ApaNuM nAma vAMcavA mATe bahu najIka AvavAnI jarUra na rahe.' pachI meM majAkamAM kahyuM, keTalAka loko ApaNuM nAma vAMcavA mATe ApaNI sAva najIka Ave che ane AMkhe ochuM dekhatA betALAvALA mANaso jyAre kapaDAmAM bharAveluM kArDa vAMcavA mATe hAthamAM laI khece che tyAre kapaDuM phATavAnI dahezata rahe che. pITare kahyuM, "have tamAruM zarTa koI phADaze nahi. lAvo tamane hAthe pina bharAvatAM na phAvatuM hoya to huM tamAruM kArDa tamArA zarTamAM bharAvI ApuM.' - "to to bahu sAruM. potAnA hAthe kArDa bharAvavA jatAM te keTalIka vAra brAMkuM bharAI jAya che." - pITare mArA zarTanA khissAmAM mArI skeca-pena bharAvI ane tyArapachI mArA nAmanuM kArDa, sephaTI-pina vaDe sarakhuM bharAvI ApyuM. kArDa bharAvIne pITare be vakhata majAkamAM

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TorAnTomAM zAkAhAra pariSada 27 kheMcIne kahyuM, 'have tamAruM zarTa koI phADI nahi zake ane phADe to bIjuM zarTa ApavAnI javAbadArI mArI.' pITaranI sAthe Ama thoDI majAkanI vAto karI, emanI vidAya laI ame cAlyAM. amane thayuM ke have ThIka ThIka samaya che to yunivarsiTInA je haoNlamAM pariSada yojAnAra che te haoNla paNa joI laIe ane yunivarsiTInA kaeNmpasamAM cakkara mArI laIe. ame eka dizAmAM cAlyA, paNa e bAju haoNla nahoto. eTale amane thayuM ke pITarane pUchI laIe ke haoNlamAM kaI bAjuethI javAnuM che. ame pITara pAse pahoMcyA ane haju kaMI paNa pUchIe te pahelAM ja pITare sAmuM pUchyuM, 'DaoN. zAha, A tamArA zarTa upara kALA raMganuM ATaluM moTuM dhAbuM zenuM thayuM ?' mArI najara zarTa sAme gai. kazAkano khAsso moTo kALo DAgho lAgI gayo hato. zAno DAgho lAgI gayo haze te vize huM vicAramAM paDyo. pITara paNa e joI rahyA. mArI bedarakArI mATe aphasosa thayo. zarTa uparano DAgho tAjo ja hato. eTale hamaNAM ja kyAMkathI te lAgI gayo hovo joIe. hAthamAMnuM pholDara zarTane aDyuM hatuM, paNa pholDaramAM koI evI vastu nahotI ke jethI kALo DAgho paDe. zarTanuM kapaDuM hAthamAM letAM ja mane jaNAyuM ke A DAgho zarTanI aMdara paNa che. Avo moTo DAgho kyAMthI paDyo haze ? khissuM pahoLuM karyuM to DAgho khissAnI aMdara vadhAre moTo jaNAyo. manamAM prazna thayo ke skeca penamAMthI zAhI to nahi gaLatI hoya ne ? ema mAnI pena khissAmAMthI bahAra kADhI. joyuM to pena gaLatI nahotI, paNa enuM DhAMkaNuM ja baMdha karavAnuM rahI gayuM hatuM. pITarane tarata samajAI gayuM ke pote mArI skeca-penanuM DhAMkaNuM baMdha karyA vagara sIdhesIdhI ja khissAmAM bharAvI dIdhI hatI. mArA nAmanuM kArDa mane bharAvI ApavAnA utsAhamAM te penanuM DhAMkaNuM baMdha karavAnuM bhUlI gayA hatA. teo potAnI bhUla mATe jhaMkhavANA thaI gayA. emaNe vAraMvAra mAphI mAgI. emano avAja DhIlo thaI gayo. zarTa upara kALA raMganuM dhAbuM eTaluM moTuM thaI gayuM ke have dUrathI jonArane nAma vAMcavA karatAM kALuM dhAbuM paheluM dekhAya. nAma to koIka jijJAsu ja vAMce, paNa dhAbuM to sau koI jue ane keTalAka te mATe premathI ApaNuM dhyAna paNa dore. meM khissAmAMthI pena kADhI, tenuM DhAMkaNuM vAsI bIjA eka pAkITamAM tene salAmata rIte mUkI dIdhI. zarTanA kApaDe skeca penanI ThIka ThIka zAhI zoSI lIdhI hatI. zarTamAM UtarelI zAhI uttarottara vadhAre prasaratI gaI hatI. kALuM dhAbuM eka veMta jeTaluM khAssuM moTuM thaI gayuM hatuM. vaLI joyuM ke zarTanI aMdara paherelAM baniyAna upara paNa ghaNuM moTuM kALuM dhAbuM thaI gayuM hatuM. AvA moTA dhAbAthI mane koI kSobha thayo nahoto, paraMta pITarane ghaNo thayo. teo teno upAya vicAravA lAgyA. pITare ciMtita svare kahyuM, 'DaoN. zAha have zuM karIzuM ? A zarTa sAthe tame pariSada kevI rIte bhAga lezo ? tame to mukhya vaktA cho.' *

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pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana me kahyuM, 'zarTane DAgho che ethI mane koI zarama, saMkoca ke kSobha nathI. AvI viSama paristhitimAM svasthatA ane prasannatA rAkhavI e to ApaNI kasoTI che.' pachI vAtane haLavI banAvavA meM kahyuM, 'A dhAbAthI eka phAyado thaze. ATalA badhA pratinidhi vacce mane oLakhI kADhavAnuM saraLa thaze. dhAbuM mAruM Identification Mark thaze. vaLI huM nibaMdha vAMcato hoIza tyAre zrotAonuM dhyAna vacce vacce mArA zarTanA A kALA moTA dhAbA upara paNa jaze. eTale mane to anAyAse ja vadhu lAbha maLaze, kAraNa bahu gaMbhIra nibaMdha vaMcAto hoya tyAre keTalAka zrotAo jhokuM khAI le che. mArA nibaMdha vakhate evuM kazuM ja thaze nahi.' 24 huM vAtAvaraNane haLavuM banAvavA prayAsa karato hato. paNa pITara kharekhara gaMbhIra rIte mUMjhAyA hatA. emaNe jANI lIdhuM ke huM ghera jaIne zarTa badalAvIne pAcho AvuM eTalo samaya rahyo nathI. vaLI pITare kahyuM ke 'Aje ravivAra che. eTale koI paNa sTora khullo nathI, nahi to huM tamane sToramAMthI navuM zarTa apAvI dauM.' meM kahyuM, 'evI koI aupacArikatAnI jarUra nathI. tame jarA paNa mUMjhAzo nahi. mAre have zarTa badalavuM nathI. A zarTa sAthe ja huM nibaMdha vAMcIza. melAM thayelAM kapaDAMno ke DAghAvALAM kapaDAMno mane kyAreya kSobha thato nathI. vaLI huM ema paNa mAnuM chuM ke zrotAo AgaLa A kALA dhAbA vize, mAphI mAgavA sAthe, prathamathI ja spaSTa khulAso karI daIe. to pachI zrotAone koI kutUhala rahetuM nathI. teonuM citta pachI nibaMdhavAMcanamAM ja raheze.' Ama chatAM pITare pUchyuM, 'DaoN. zAha, tamArA zarTanI sAijha keTalI che ? najIkamAM mArA koI mitra pAsethI zarTa maLe to huM leto AvuM.' meM kahyuM, 'tame kAmamAM rokAyelA cho. eTale evI koI takalIpha levAnI jarUra nathI.' Ama chatAM pITaranA AgrahathI meM mArA zarTanI sAijha kahI. pariSada zarU thavAne haju doDheka kalAkanI vAra hatI. yunivarsiTImAM pharavAnI amArI je icchA hatI te mAMDI vALI, kAraNa ke thoDuMka pharyA tyAM je koi sAmA maLe te DAdhA tarapha amAruM dhyAna kheMce, rakhene amane enI khabara na hoya ema samajIne. ame vicAryuM ke 'cAlo, sIdhA upara ja jaIe ane tyAM besIe ! Thera Thera loko zarTa sAme jue ane dhyAna kheMce ke hase enA karatAM haoNlamAM besavuM vadhAre sAruM.' ame yunivarsiTInA eka makAnamAM vizALa vyAkhyAna haoNlamAM gayA. haoNla khullo hato. haju koI AvyuM na hatuM. ATalA vahelAM AvavAnuM bIjAone koI kAraNa paNa na hatuM. ame tyAM beThAM. tyAM bAjumAM puruSo ane mahilAo mATenA resTarUma hatA. (amerikA-keneDAmAM TaoNileTane resTarUma kahe che.) huM resTarUmamAM gayo. tyAM mane vicAra Avyo ke zarTa parano DAgho ghoI nAkhIe to kema ? meM bejhinanA naLamAMthI khobAmAM pANI laI zarTa para te pANI lagAvI DAgho ocho karavA prayatna karyo. paraMtu ethI to

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25 TorAnTomAM zAkAhAra pariSada UMdhuM pariNAma AvyuM. pANIthI bhInA thayelA bhAgamAM paNa DAgha prasarI gayo. zarTanI khissAvALI AkhI bAju kALI kALI thaI gaI. DAgho gayo nahi, paNa vadhu moTo thaI gayo. bhInA zarTa sAthe huM bahAra Avyo. tyAM mArI patnIe kahyuM, 'A tame zuM karyuM ? DAgho nAno hato, have to A badhuM kALuM kALuM thaI gayuM, A to UlaTuM vadhAre kharAba lAge che.' meM kahyuM, 'eka prayoga karavA gayo, paNa enuM pariNAma viparIta AvyuM. mane khabara nahi ke AvuM thaze. paNa have zuM thAya ?' ame thoDI vAra beThAM. mArAM patnIe kahyuM, 'tame zarTa kADhI Apo to huM leDijha resTarUmamAM jaI dhoI kADhuM.' meM kahyuM, 'tuM leDijha resTarUmamAM jaIne dhUe ane huM ahIM haoNlamAM ughADA zarIre beTho houM ane koI AvI caDe to vicitra lAge. enA karatAM to huM pote ja resTarUmamAM jaIne zarTa dhoI kADhuM. paNa ema karavA jatAM kadAca kALo raMga AkhA zarTamAM prasarI jAya to UlaTuM kharAba thAya. ane bhInuM zarTa jaladI sukAya nahi.' mArAM patnIe kahyuM, 'jo ke haju kalAkano samaya che eTale zarTa dhoIne tame ahIM paMkhA nIce beso to jevuMtevuM sukAI jAya.' huM resTamAM gayo. zarTa ane baniyAna kADhI nAkhyAM. bejhinamAM garama pANI zarTa ane baniyAna upara jevuM choDyuM ke kALo raMga to baMne kapaDAMmAM prasarI gayo. raMganI gherAza ochI thaI, paNa raMga zarTamAM badhe vyApI gayo. bejhina pAse hAtha dhovAno pravAhI sAbu hato. te laIne meM kapaDA upara ghasyo. ethI raMga thoDo Utaryo. pANIthI dhoIne baMne kapaDAM nicovyAM ane bhInAM paherIne bahAra Avyo. have raMga ocho thaI gayo hato, paNa zarTa zobhe evuM rahyuM na hatuM. mULa je jagyAe DAgho paDyo hato te jagyAe cakaraDuM to haju gheruM hatuM. huM paMkhA nIce beTho. enAthI tathA zarIranI garamIthI kalAkamAM baMne kapaDAM sukAze ke kema enI zaMkA hatI. to paNa pahelAM karatAM kaMIka rAhatabharI sthiti lAgatI hatI. thoDI vAra thaI tyAM mane vicAra Avyo ke 'haju eka vAra sAbuthI baMne kapaDAM dhoIe to raMga haju thoDo ocho thAya. zrotAo to kAryakramanA samaya karatAM vadhumAM vadhu dasa-paMdara miniTa vahelAM Ave. tyAM sudhImAM raMga utAravAno pharI vAra eka prayoga karI jouM.' ema vicArI huM resTarUmamAM gayo. pharI zarTa dhoyuM. baniyAna to aMdara paheravAnuM che eTale cAlI jaze. eTale te na dhoyuM. sAbuthI ghasIne zarTa dhotAM raMga pharI thoDoka ocho thayo. zarTa nicovI kADhyuM. evAmAM mArI najara hAtha dhoIne korA karavA mATe eka bAju rAkhavAmAM AvelA haeNnDa DrAyara upara paDI. videzomAM ghaNe ThekANe hAtha dhoyA pachI te korA karavA mATe pepara naeNplina, TisyU pepara ane haeNnDa DrAyara hoya che. haeNnDa DrAyaramAM baTana dabAvavAthI garamAgarama havA Ave. enI nIce hAtha rAkhIe to tarata korA thaI jAya. mane thayuM ke haeNnDa DrAyara cAlu karIne nIce zarTa rAkhuM to garamagarama havAthI te tarata sukAI jaze. e pramANe meM karyuM. zarTa tarata sukAI gayuM. meM AzcaryAnaMda anubhavyo. www.jainelibrary:org

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana bahAra AvIne mArAM patnIne A henDa DrAyaranI vAta karI. A upAya ghaNo sAro lAgyo. have ema thayuM ke haju ThIka ThIka samaya che. to betraNa vakhata sAbuthI dhoIne henDa DrAyaramAM kapaDuM sUkavI nAkhIe to raMga ghaNo badho nIkaLI jAya. vaLI have to baniyAna paNa dhoI zakAze. meM zarTa ane baniyAna baMne traNeka vAra e rIte sAbuthI ghasIne dhoyAM ane henDa DrAyara nIce rAkhIne sUkavyAM. kharekhara eka judo ja anubhava hato. paNa te kAragata nIvaDyo. have zarTa upara mAtra penanI aNI jyAM aDI rahI hatI eTalA bhAgamAM ja ekAda rUpiyA jeTaluM nAnuM jhAMkhuM cakaraDuM rahyuM hatuM. meM ghaDiyALa sAme joyuM. mane lAlaca lAgI ke jo haju samaya che to eTaluM cakaraDuM paNa zA mATe rahevA devuM ? bIjI be vAra eTalA bhAgamAM ghasI ghasIne garama pANIthI zarTa dhotAM mArA Azcarya vacce A nAnuM kALuM cakaraDuM paNa nIkaLI gayuM. zarTa TerelinanuM hatuM. eTale dhovA chatAM paNa khAsa koI karacalI rahI na hatI. Ama navarAzanA eka kalAkamAM meM sArI rIte e dhobIkAma karI lIdhuM. have koIne khyAla paNa na Ave ke A zarTa upara kalAka pahelAM ghaNuM moTuM kALuM dhAbuM hatuM. A kAma samayasara sArI rIte pAra paDyuM eTale amArAM baMnenAM cittamAM ravasthatA ane prasannatA paNa vyApI rahyAM. zarTanA vicAramAM satata parovAyeluM raheluM mAruM citta have temAMthI nivRtta thayuM ane nibaMdhanA viSayamAM parovAyuM. zrotAo kevA kevA prazno pUchaze ane tenA kevA uttaro ApavA joI enA vicAramAM huM lIna banI gayo. pariSadano samaya thavA Avyo. thoDI vAramAM zrotAo AvavA lAgyA. pariSadanA kAryakartAo paNa AvavA lAgyA. dazeka miniTamAM to Akho hola bharAI gayo. ame beThAM hatAM tyAM pariSadanA eka kAryakartA mArI pAse AvyA. emaNe kahyuM, mApha karajo, tame DaoN. zAha cho ?' meM kahyuM, "hA.' teo mArA zarTa sAme jovA lAgyA. pachI emaNe kahyuM, "pITara mekvine tamArA mATe saMdezo kahevaDAvyo che. emane AvatAM kadAca pAMca-dasa miniTa vadhu vAra lAge to tame maMca upara jatAM pahelAM emanI rAha jozo." pariSadano samaya thaI gayo. maMca uparathI enA saMyojake badhA pratinidhionAM nAma bolavAM zarU karyo. ane darekane maMca upara AvavA mATe vinaMtI karI. mAruM nAma paNa bolAyuM. meM pITaranI thoDI rAha joI, paNa sabhAnI kAryavAhI cAlu thaI gaI eTale maMca upara jaIne mArI jagyAe beTho. sauthI pahelAM mAre ja mAro nibaMdha vAMcavAno hato. jAherAta thatAM UbhA thaI meM mAro nibaMdha vAMcavo zarU kayo. eTalI vAramAM pITara hAthamAM eka pekeTa sAthe haoNlamAM dAkhala thayo. teo AgaLanI haroLamAM eka khurazImAM AvI besI gayA. teo satata mArA zarTa sAme joyA karatA hatA. huM e samajI gayo. pITaranuM dhyAna mArA nibaMdhavAMcanamAM nahi paraMtu mArA zarTamAM hatuM. mAro nibaMdha vAMcanano ane praznottarIno kAryakrama pUro thayo. tyAra pachI bIjA be nibaMdho vaMcAyA. ane te vize paNa

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TorAnTomAM zAkAhAra pariSada praznottarI rUpe carcA thaI. doDha kalAkanA aMte beThaka pUrI thaI. huM nIce UtaruM te pahelAM to pITara maMca upara doDI AvyA. mane kahe, 'DaoN. zAha, tame A bIjuM zarTa kyAMthI laI AvyA ? mane to tamArI bahu ciMtA thatI hatI. huM tamArA mATe najIkamAMthI mArA eka mitranuM zarTa laI Avyo chuM. paNa tame ATalI jhaDapathI bIjuM zarTa meLavyuM kyAMthI ?' kahyuM, "meM zarTa badalAvyuM nathI. zarTa enuM e ja che. kalAkano samaya maLyo emAM zarTa dhoIne kALuM dhAbuM kADhI nAkhyuM. tamArA dezamAM A sArI sagavaDa che ke sAbuthI dhoyA pachI hAtha korA karavA mATe henDa DrAyara hoya che. e vaDe meM zarTa sUkavI lIdhuM. cAra-pAMca vakhata dhotAM to AkhuM dhAbuM nIkaLI gayuM.' mArI vAtathI pITaranA Azcaryano pAra na rahyo. emaNe pUchyuM, "A badhuM tame jAte ja karyuM ?' meM kahyuM, 'hAsto vaLI ! kapaDAM kADhIne dhovAmAM ApaNane saMkoca zo ? kaoNlejanA divasomAM huM hosTelamAM raheto tyAre kapaDAM hAthe dhoto.' emaNe kahyuM, "AvuM to tamane ja sUjhe. amArA lokone AvuM jaladI sUjhe nahi. bIjA koI pratinidhine AvI takalIpha thaI hota to eNe potAnA nibaMdha mATe samaya badalAvyo hota.' pITaranI vAta sAcI hatI. amane eka navo ja anubhava thayo hato. viSama saMjogomAM paNa cittanI svasthatA na gumAvavAnI amane sarasa tAlIma maLI. ballise Only

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5 sahasra dvIpanA pradezamAM amerikAmAM naisargika ramaNIya pradezo ghaNA badhA che, paraMtu temAM uttare keneDAnI sarahada para, senTa lorensa nadImAM AvelA thAujhanDa AilaeNnDas-sahasra dvIpanA pradezanI lAkSaNikatA kaMIka ora ja che ! jotAM ja manamAM vasI jAya evo e cetohara pradeza che. upara AkAza, nIce zAMta vahetI nadInuM svaccha jala (ziyALAmAM te TharIne barapha thaI jAya), emAM najIka najIka AvelAM nAnAmoTA dvIpo, baMne kinArA para UMcInIcI TekarIo, pAIna, poplara, cerI vagere vividha prakAranAM vRkSonI gADha hariyALI e badhAMne kAraNe A vistAra eka evI AgavI prAkRtika ramyatA dhAraNa kare che ke rasika pravAsInuM citta tenA tarUM AkarSAyA vagara rahe nahi. aDhAramI sadInA uttarArdhathI keTalA badhA zrImaMta sahelANIo tyAM koI eka manapasaMda beTa kharIdIne potAnI vasAhata UbhI karavA doDyA hatA ! Aje to e pradezano bahu vikAsa thayo che. hoTelo, moTelo, jAtajAtanI resTorAM, gaoNlpha klaba, Tenisa korTa, ghoDesvArInAM medAno, thiyeTaro, myujhiyama, prANIbAga, matsya zikAranA zokhIno mATe bhADe maLatI yAMtrika hoDIo ema vividha pravRttiothI e vistAra gAjato thaI gayo che. duniyAmAM jeTalAM sarovaro che tenA karatAM dvIpanI saMkhyA ghaNI badhI che. eka mANasa Ubho rahI zake ke ekAda nAnuM ghara thaI zake eTalA nAnA dvIpathI mAMDIne eka AkhuM nagara vase evA moTA dvIpa (Island City) ke eka nAnuM sarakhuM rASTra hoya evA dvIpa (Island State) ane ake Akho khaMDa dvIpa jevo hoya (Island Continent) evA (oNsTreliyA ke dakSiNa dhruva pradeza) dvIpa sudhInA vividha prakAranI nisarganI racanAo vizvamAM jovA maLe che. nAnA dvIpamAM rahenArA lokonI eka judI ja jAtanI manovRtti hoya che. TApumAM rahelA lokone vizALa dharatImAM rahevuM na game evuM paNa bane che. surakSitatAnI dRSTie TApunuM mahattva ghaNuM che. eTale ja eziyAnI zodhasaphare nIkaLelA briTana, porTugala, spena, phrAnsa, holaeNnDa vagerenA zodhasapharIoe dariyAkinAre AvelA TApuomAM potAnAM thANAM nAkhyAM hatAM ane tyAM killo bAMdhyo hato. bhAgI jatA gulAmone rAkhavA amerikanoe kerebiyana samudranA TApuono upayoga karyo hato. bhAratamAM pUrva ane pazcima bAjuno samudrakinAro keTalo badho moTo che ! Ama chatAM ATalA lAMbA samudrakinAre AvelA TApuonI saMkhyAnuM pramANa ghaNuM ja ochuM che. 28

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sahasa hIpanA pradezamAM 29 phijI, nyUjhIlenDa, InDoneziyA, philipAInsa, jApAna jevA pratyeka dezanA samudrakinArAmAM sekaDo TApuo AvelA che. samudranI vAta to jANe samajAya evI che, paraMtu duniyAnI koI nadImAM sauthI vadhu beTa hoya to te amerikA ane keneDAne joDatI, keneDAnA onTeriyo sarovaramAM jaIne maLatI senTa lorensa nadImAM che. AraMbhamAM A pradezanA zodhasIoe sAmAnya aMdAja evo mUkyo hato ke ochAmAM ochA eka hajAra TApu to A nadInA ATalA vistAramAM haze ! ethI enuM nAma thAujhanDa AIlenDas paDI gayuM. bhaugolika daSTie eTalo moTo AMkaDo tyAre Azcaryajanaka lAge evo hato. koIne saMzaya thAya ke kharekhara zuM nadInA ATalA ochA vistAramAM te kaMI hajAra jeTalA beTa hoI zake ? paraMtu A jalavistAranuM jyAre adhikRta sarvekSaNa karavAmAM AvyuM tyAre tyAM eka hajAra nahi, paNa kula 1872 jeTalA beTa noMdhAyA. temAM paNa evI zarata rAkhavAmAM AvelI ke je beTa upara ochAmAM ochuM eka vRkSa UgyuM hoya tenI ja beTa tarIke A gaNatarImAM gaNanA karavI. nahi to A saMkhyA be hajArathI paNa vadhI jAya. jenA upara palAMThI vALIne besI paNa na zakAya evA nAnakaDA beTa paNa tyAM keTalA badhA che ! zAMta vahelI lorensa nadInI ramyatAmAM A badhA beTathI abhivRddhi thaI che e to kharuM, paNa vividha raMga dhAraNa karatuM AkAza, nAnAmoTA beTa uparanI ane kinArAnI vRkSavanarAja ane nirmaLa jaLamAM paDatuM enuM pratibiMba tathA zItala havA ane zAMta vAtAvaraNa-e badhAMne kAraNe paNa A samagra pradeza bahu ja raLiyAmaNo lAge che. ziyALAmAM to AkhI nadI thIjI jAya ane himavarSAne kAraNe cArebAju je zveta nIrava vAtAvaraNa sarjAya e dazyanI ramaNIyatA to vaLI judI ja ! be-aDhI saikA pUrve keTalAka mAchImAro A vistAramAM AvIne chUTAchavAyA vaselA. enA keTalAya vaMzajo Aje paNa tyAM e ja vyavasAya kare che. A pradezanA vikAsanI sAthe judA judA vyavasAyanA loko paNa AvIne vaselA che. unALAmAM cAreka mahinA to pradeza bahu dhamadhamato lAge che. keTalAya sahelANIo ahIM Ave che. rAtanA agiyArabAra vAgyA sudhI bajAro, resTorAM vagere khullAM hoya. 1992nA julAImAM ame bosTanathI sikyusa thaIne thAujhanDa AilaeNsamAM pharavA gayA hatA. jepharasana kAunTI nAmanA ilAkAmAM rocesTarathI Azare so mAIla dUra vaoNTara TAuna thaIne elekajhAnDriyA be (Bay) ame pahoMcyA. ahIMthI lorensa nadImAM sahelagAha mATe sTImara UpaDe che. TikiTa laI ame sTImaramAM beThA. taDako hato, paraMtu ThaMDaka hatI. emAM paNa nadInA pANImAM sTImara cAlI eTale to ThaMDA pavananA susavATAmAM zarIra dhrUjavA lAgyuM. tarata ame vizALa pAradarzaka kAcavALI kebinamAM ghUsI gayA. gAIDa yuvatIe sarva pravAsIonuM madhura avAje lahekAthI svAgata karyuM ane kahyuM ke

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30 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana AkhA divasanI A sapharamAM jANavA jevA TApunI pote mAhitI ApatI jaze ane je je TApu upara jovA-pharavAnuM haze tyAM te laI jaze. gAiDa yuvatI A vistAranI bhaugolika ane aitihAsika mAhitI ApatI gaI. eka TApu batAvatAM eNe kahyuM, 'jamaNI bAju have je TApu Ave che tenuM nAma che 'mepala AilaeNnDa.' tyAM mepalanAM ghaNAM vRkSo hovAthI evuM enuM nAma paDyuM che. A TApu jhona pAIna nAmanA cAMciyAnI ghaTanAthI mazahUra che. I.sa. 1865nI vAta che. eka divasa e TApu uparathI bahu moTo dhumADo nIkaLavA lAgyo. e joIne A nadInA kinArA upara chUTAchavAyA rahetA keTalAka mAchImAra lokone lAgyuM ke tyAM moTI Aga lAgI che. mATe jIva bacAvavA tyAM rahetA loko kinArA para jarUra doDI Avaze. paraMtu koI ja AvyuM nahi. ethI teone thayuM ke kadAca koI baLI maryuM haze. teone kutUhala thayuM. teo tyAM pahoMcI gayA. paraMtu tyAM to eka mANasanuM ghavAyeluM zaba paDyuM hatuM. ane gharane Aga lAgI hatI. vAtanI khabara paDatAM AsapAsanA ghaNA mANaso tyAM ekatra thaI gayA. polIsa AvI. tapAsa karatAM mAlUma paDyuM ke e zaba to jANItA cAMciyA jhona pAInanuM che. e ahIM kevI rIte Avyo ? koNe khUna karyuM ? tapAsa karatAM vadhu vigato bahAra AvI. jhona pAIna ane enA ToLakInA sAthIdAroe abrAhama liMkananuM ane enA pradhAnamaMDaLanA sabhyonuM khUna karavAnuM kAvataruM karyuM hatuM. e mATe keTalAka rAjakAraNIo taraphathI jahona pAInane ghaNI moTI rakama ApavAmAM AvI hatI. rakama eNe potAnA sAthIdAro sAthe vaheMcI levAnI hatI. paraMtu bahu moTI rakama maLatAM jahona pAInanI dAnata bagaDI. bIjI bAju liMkananA khUnanA kAvatarAnI vAta phUTI gaI. polIse jhona pAInane pakaDavA zodha calAvI, paraMtu e rakama laIne te bhAgIne A vistAramAM saMtAvA mATe doDI Avyo. te A mepala TApunI gIca jhADImAM AvelA eka gharamAM saMtAI gayo. te bhAgye ja gharanI bahAra nIkaLato. eka mAchImAra pAsethI mAchalAM laI potAnuM gujarAna calAvato. ema karatAM ghaNo samaya nIkaLI gayo. enA sAthIdAroe kAvatarA mATe maLelI rakamamAMthI potAno hisso meLavavA jhona pAInanI ghaNI zodha karI, paraMtu te maLyo nahi. ema zodha karatAM karatAM teo eka divasa A TApu para tapAsa karavA AvyA. jhona pAInane pakaDyo ane potAno hisso mAgyo. hone hisso ApavAno inkAra karyo eTale jhaghaDo thayo. mArAmArImAM sAthIdAroe enuM khUna karyuM. enA gharamAMthI badhI rakama meLavI lIdhI ane e gharane Aga lagADI teo bhAgI gayA. liMkananA khUnanA kAvatarAnuM pariNAma AvuM karuNa AvyuM ! amArI sTImara AgaLa jatAM eka vizALa TApu Avyo. enuM nAma tyAM UgelAM cerInAM vRkSo uparathI 'cerI AilaeNnDa' paDeluM che. A TApu upara eka koTyAdhipatie sarasa majhAno vizALa baMgalo baMdhAvyo che. emAM bhAtabhAtanA ghaNA oraDA che ane -

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sahasa hIpanA pradezamAM e badhA oraDAonI sajAvaTa vividha prakAranI prAcIna zilpAkRtio, citro ane cIjavastuo sAthe karI che. boTamAMthI UtarIne ame e baMgalAnI mulAkAta laI AvyA. mANasanA zokha kevA kevA hoya che teno sarasa khyAla ahIM Avyo. sTImara AgaLa cAlI. gAIDe kahyuM, 'have thoDI vAramAM DAbI bAju eka nAnakaDo TApu ane enA para bAMdheluM eka ghara Avaze. jarA dhyAnathI jojo." e TApu pAse Avyo eTale saue dhyAnathI joyuM. gAIDe pUchyuM, "zuM lAge che tamane A ghara joIne ?' 'TApu upara ghara che, paNa gharanI bahAra cAlavA mATe jarA jeTalI paNa jagyA nathI.' eke kahyuM. A TApu upara ghara e to jANe TApune mAthe pahoLI TopI paherAvI hoya evuM lAge che.' bIjAe kahyuM. 'paNa A ghara eNe bAMdhyuM haze kaI rIte ? nadInA pANImAM hoDImAM UbhA UbhA eNe ghara bAMdhyuM haze ? ema karavA jAya to paNa AvuM ghara bAMdhavAnuM phAve nahi. trIjuM koIka bolyuM. gAIDe kahyuM, 'nA, ema paNa nathI. A gharanI kathA kaMIka judI che. eka sAdhAraNa sthitinA mANasane ahIM TApu upara ghara bAMdhIne rahevAnuM mana thayuM. eNe eka rUma ane rasoDuM thAya eTalA nAnA ghara mATe eTalI ja jamInavALo A TApu sAva sastAmAM kharIdI lIdho. pachI jAte ghara bAMdhavAnuM cAlu karyuM, paNa koI rIte ghara UbhuM karavAnuM phAvatuM nahi. chevaTe eNe eka rasto kADhyo. eNe TApunuM mApa cAre bAjuthI barAbara laI lIdhuM. pachI ziyALo Avyo eTale nadInAM pANI thIjI gayAM ane TApu upara betraNa phUTa jeTalo barapha jAmI gayo. tyAre eNe ahIM lAkaDAM ANI te mApa pramANe vaherI jAte ghara UbhuM karI dIdhuM ane te barAbara TApunI upara mApamApe goThavI lIdhuM. pachI jyAre unALo Avyo tyAre barapha ogaLato gayo ane ghara dhIme dhIme nIce UtaratuM gayuM ane badho barapha ogaLI gayo tyAre enuM ghara TApunA mastaka upara TopInI jema barAbara phiTa AvI gayuM. pachI e tyAM kAyama ekalo rahevA lAgyo. jAte rasoI karI le ane eka nAnI hoDI banAvelI temAM besIne nadImAM sahelagAha kare. ziyALAmAM barapha jAmI jAya tyAre te ekalo gharamAM beTho beTho vAMcyA kare. ema eNe A TApu upara potAnI jiMdagI pUrI karI." A TApuomAMnA eka TApunuM nAma 'Devilsa AIlenDa' che. enI gIca jhADImAM koI mANasa saMtAI jAya to ene zodhavAnuM muzkela banI jAya. ogaNIsamA saikAnI zarUAtamAM bila jahonasana nAmano eka senApati A TApumAM saMtAI gayo hato. vAta ema banI hatI ke keneDAne briTiza hakUmatamAMthI mukta karAvavA mATe amuka dezabhakta keneDiyanoe keTalAka amerikanonA sahakArathI I.sa. 1838mAM dezabhaktonA yuddhaPatriot's

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kara pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana WarnI taiyArI karI hatI. A yuddhanI netAgIrI bila jhonasana ane viliyama maeNkendrIe lIdhI hatI. bila jhonasane A nadImAM eka briTiza vahANa DubADI dIdhuM ane aMgrejone bhagADyA. have vijaya hAthaveMtamAM hato. A vijaya meLavavAnA utsAhamAM teo badhA AvI gayA. vijayakUcanI AgalI rAte teoe vijaya mATenI mijabAnI rAkhI. emAM baMne netAo bila jhonasana ane viliyama maeNkenjhIe eTalo badho dArU DhIMcyo ke savAre chelluM AkramaNa karavA teo UThI zakayA nahi. AgekUca karavA mATe sainiko rAha jotA rahyA. evAmAM aMgrejono humalo Avyo. nAsabhAga cAlu thaI. vijaya parAjayamAM pheravAI gayo. bila jhonasana ane viliyama maeNkenjhI UMghamAMthI bebAkaLA UThyA ane bhAgyA. emAM maeNkendrI pakaDAI gayo, bila jhonasana A Devilsa AilaeNnDamAM kayAMka saMtAI gayo. aMgrejonuM kaeNneDA uparanuM zAsana pharI vyavasthita cAlavA lAgyuM. teoe yuddha gunegAra bila jhonasanane pakaDavA mATe vaoNraMTa kADhyuM paNa te kyAMyathI pakaDAyo nahi. bila jhonasana A TApunI gIca jhADImAM eka jUnA makAnamAM saMtAI gayo. koIne enI bhALa maLI nahi. eka mAtra enI dIkarIne khabara hatI ke potAnA pitA kayAM saMtAyA che. te roja pitAne chAnImAnI khAvAnuM ApI AvatI. ema karatAM varasa vItI gayuM. have bila jhonasana thAkyo. chevaTe e jAte aMgrejone zaraNe gayo. sattAvALAoe enI dharapakaDa karI, paNa vAta have eTalI jUnI thaI gaI hatI ke teoe bila jonasanane mAphI ApI ane A TApuono ane jalavistArano te bhomiyo hovAthI ene eka dIvAdAMDInA rakhevALa tarIke nokarI ApI. bIjo eka dvIpa batAvIne, lorensa nadImAM ane enA vistAramAM banelI eka vicitra ghaTanA vize gAiDe kahyuM, 'I.sa. 1970nI AsapAsa nyu meksikothI eka bahu zrImaMta vepArI A vistAramAM Avyo hato. enuM nAma erika hanTara. judA judA jalapradezamAM jaI mAchalAM pakaDavAM e enI zokhanI pravRtti hatI. te senTa lorensa nadImAM potAnI hoDI laIne AvI pahoMcyo, mAchalAM pakaDatAM pakaDatAM eka divasa eno vAMsaDo nadInA pANImAM phasAI gayo. eNe ghaNuM jora karI jhATako mArI vAMsaDo kheMcyo to pANImAMthI nIcethI patarAMnI eka nAnI peTI bharAI AvI. ene lAgyuM ke jarUra nIce koI vahANa DUbI gayuM hovuM joie. enI vAta sAcI hatI. loDhAnI peTImAMthI eka DAyarI nIkaLI. jarmanInA kaeNpTana gUMtharanI e lakhelI hatI. e DAyarInA ahevAla pramANe bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate kaeNpTana gUMtharane keTalAka khalAsIo ane nAviko sAthe jarmanIe amerikA ane kaeNneDAnI sarahadamAM nAnI yudghanaukA laIne jAsUsI karavA mokalyo hato. gupta mAhitI meLavI eNe vAyaralesa dvArA te jarmanI pahoMcADavAnI hatI. te senTa lorensa nadImAM nAnI yuddhanaukA laIne ghUsyo hato. lorensa nadImAM AvyA pachI potAnI yudghanaukA pakaDAya nahi e mATe eNe rAtorAta enAM rUparaMga

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sahasra hIpanA prayAmAM badalI nAkhyAM hatAM ane jANe mAchImAronI boTa hoya evo dekhAva karyo hato. paraMtu kamabhAgye enI yuddhanaukA dhasamasatA vahetA pANImAM eka khaDaka sAthe athaDAIne tuTI gaI ane DUbavA lAgI. badhA nAviko ane khalAsIo jIva bacAvIne kinAre pahoMcI gayA. teone phrenca ane iMgliza bhASA zikhavADIne mokalyA hatA. eTale teo sthAnika loko sAthe chUTAchavAyA bhaLI gayA. keTalAka majUra tarIke khetaromAM kAma karavA lAgyA. thoDA vakhatamAM to teo sthAnika rahevAsI jevA banI gayA. keTalAke to sthAnika yuvatI sAthe lagna paNa karI lIdhAM ane temane saMtAno paNa thayAM. jyAre vizvayuddha pUruM thayuM tyAre teone jarmanI pAchA pharavAnI IcchA na thaI kAraNa ke jarmanI hArI gayuM hatuM. teo tyAM ja rokAI gayA. pacIsa varSe erika haMTare gUMtharanI DAyarInA AdhAre e vistAramAM khoja karI. eNe DAyarImAM lakhelAM nAma pramANe keTalAka nAvikono patto meLavyo. paraMtu have kALano pravAha eTalo badho vahI gayo hato ke koIne e jUnI vAtomAM rasa rahyo nahoto. teo badhA sthAnika vatanI ja banI gayA hatA. amArI sTImara AgaLa cAlatI hatI. ame sau AsapAsanA TApuono ane kinArAno pradeza nihALavAmAM magna hatA. tyAM gAIDe mAIkamAM jAhera karyuM, "sajajano ane sannArIo ! have thoDI vAramAM ApaNI sTImara sarahada oLaMgI keneDAnA pradezamAM dAkhala thaze. mATe tamArA pAsaporTa taiyAra rAkhazo. AzA rAkhuM chuM ke tamArI pAse keneDAno vijhA haze ja !' gAIDanI A jAherAta sAMbhaLI ame badhA pravAsI camakyA. keTalAke kahyuM, "ame pAsaporTa lAvyA nathI. amane evI kazI khabara ja nahotI.' koIke kahyuM, "amArI pAse pAsaporTa che. paNa keneDAnA vijhA nathI.' vaLI koIke phariyAda karI, 'TikiTa ApatI vakhate tamAra ja tapAsI levuM joIe ne ke amArI pAse pAsaporTa vijhA che ke nahi ?' badhA bolatA rahyA, paNa gAIDa to koIne javAba ApatI nahotI. thoDIvAra pachI te hasI paDI ane bolI, are, ApaNe keneDAnA jalavistAramAM kyAranA dAkhala thaI gayA ane koIe ApaNA pAsaporTa vijhA tapAsyA nahi. kadAca enuM kAraNa e haze ke ApaNe badhA sArA pravAsIo chIe ane pAchA cAlyA javAnA chIe enI e lokone khAtarI haze !' AvI majAka karyA pachI gAIDe vAtanI spaSTatA karatAM kahyuM ke amerikA ane keneDAnI sarahada A nadInA pANImAMthI pasAra thAya che. nadInA vahetA pANImAM barAbara kaI jagyAe sarahada che enI khabara paDe eTalA mATe thoDe dUra be nAnA TApuo je dekhAya che tene joDato tenA upara teoe ramakaDAM jevo ardha vartuLAkAra sapheda pula bAMdhyo che. pulanI eka bAju amerikA che ane bIjI bAju keneDA che. pulanI sIdhI lITIe nadInA

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04 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe -- uttarAlekhana pANImAM eka kinArAthI bIjA kinArA sudhI amerikA ane keneDAnI sarahada paDe che. ahIM pravAsIo, mAchImAro vagere koI paNa prakAranI rokaToka vagara sarahada oLaMgI zake che. eTalA mATe ja sarahadI pulano raMga sapheda rAkhyo che, je raMga suleha ane zAMtinA pratIka jevo che. bIjo eka TApu batAvI gAIDa kahyuM, "A TApunuM nAma che hArTa AIlenDa. emAM AvelA vizALa killA jevI racanAne bolTa kesala kahevAmAM Ave che.' pachI amane badhAne e bolTa kesalanI mulAkAta mATe laI javAmAM AvyA. mANasa dhAre che zuM ane kudarata kare che zuM teno vicAra A bolTa kesalano ItihAsa sAMbhaLIne AvyA vagara rahe nahi. jyorja bolTa nAmano eka koyAdhipati potAnI patnI lUIjhe(Louise)ne laIne A TApuo jovA Avelo. teone A ramaNIya pradezanuM eTaluM badhuM AkarSaNa thayuM ke patnIe IcchA batAvI ke ahIM eka sarasa ghara karAvI Apo ke jethI vAraMvAra AvIne ahIM rahI zakAya. bolTa potAnI patnIne bahu ja cAhato hato ane eno paDyo bola jhIlavA haMmezAM tatpara raheto. patnIe jevI IcchA darzAvI ke tarata bolTe sArAmAM sAro ArkiTakaTa rokI, sArAmAM sAro TApu kharIdI laIne tyAM rAjamahela jevo vizALa baMgalo baMdhAvavAnuM cAlu karyuM. 120 suzobhita oraDAvALuM sAta mALanuM potAnuM rahevA mATenuM makAna, thoDe dUra mahemAno mATenAM makAno, nokaracAkara mATe makAno, potAnI boTanA khalAsIo mATe juduM makAna evAM bIjAM agiyAra makAno tathA vIjaLI mATe pAvarahAusa jevuM juduM tathA eka TAvara jevuM makAna, taravAno hoja, Tenisa korTa, judA judA bagIcA karAvyA tathA AthI jAgIrane pharate killA jevo UMco koTa karAvyo. bolTane potAnAM patnI pratyenA premanA pratIka tarIke hRdayanI AkRti bahu gamatI hatI. eNe baMgalAmAM, dIvAlomAM, chatamAM TheraThera hRdayanI AkRti kotarAvI tathA evI citrAkRtio ane zilpAkRtio paNa kharIdIne judA judA oraDAmAM goThavAvI. basothI vadhu evI hArTanI AkRtiothI sabhara evI A jagyA mATe eNe TApunuM nAma paNa hArTa AIlenDa' (hRdayadvIpa) rAkhyuM. I.sa. 1900mAM eNe A bAMdhakAma zarU karAvyuM. aDhI karoDa DaoNlara jevI jaMgI rakama to kharcAI gaI. bAMdhakAmane traNa varSa pUrAM thaI gayAM. have thoDA mahinAnuM bAMdhakAma bAkI hatuM tyAM 108nA jAnyuArImAM enI patnI lUIjhanuM avasAna thayuM. basa, khela khatama ! bolTane bhAre AghAta lAgyo. patnInI ciravidAyathI e bhagnahRdaya banI gayo. bolTa kesalanuM enuM svapna jarAka mATe adhUruM rahyuM. have enuM kAma pUruM karAvavAmAMthI eno rasa UDI gayo, te eTalI hada sudhI ke pachI eNe kyAreya tyAM paga mUkyo nahi. eTaluM ja nahi paNa e jAgIranA mAlikIpaNAmAM paNa ene rasa rahyo nahi. jAgIra ema ne ema dhaNIdhorI vagaranI paDI rahI ane divase divase bagaDatI gaI. patnInA virahamAM thoDAM varSe bolTanuM paNa avasAna thayuM. ane

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sahasa dvIpanA pradezamAM pa AvaDI moTI jAgIra nadhaNiyAtI paDI rahI. koI eno vArasadAra paNa nahoto. TheTha 1977mAM rAjyanA sattAvALAoe A nadI upara amerikA ane kaeNneDAne joDato pula bAMdhavAno nirNaya karyo tyAre hArTa AilaeNnDa ane enI jAgIranI mAlikI potAne hastaka laI lIdhI. ane enI marAmata karAvI pravAsIone nihALavA mATenuM eka suMdara kendra banAvyuM. kudaratanI lIlA kevI akaLa che ! amArI sTImara AgaLa cAlatI hatI. gAiDa yuvatIe kahyuM, 'have jamaNI bAju najara karo. tamane lorensa nadInA kinAre eka atyaMta vizALa manohara baMgalo dekhAze. vRkSonI ghaTAmAM e kevo sarasa zobhI rahyo che ! tamane emAM rahevAnuM game kharuM ? sau koIe ekI avAje kahyuM, 'AvA sarasa baMgalAmAM rahevAnuM kone na game ?' gAiDe kahyuM, 'A to dUrathI jotAM gamI jAya evo majhAno baMgalo che. paNa tame aMdara jaine juo to tamane tyAMthI khasavAnuM mana na thAya evo e baMgalo che. e kono baMgalo che te huM pachI tamane kahuM chuM. paNa te daramiyAna DAbI bAju dUra eka nAnA TApu upara eka makAna juo ! dekhAyuM ?' 'hA..' 'eka zrImaMta patipatnIe potAne rahevA mATe A ghara baMdhAvelAM. tame mane kahezo ke AmAM paheluM ghara kayuM baMdhAyuM ane pachI kayuM baMdhAyuM ?' 'dekhItuM ja che ke A madbhUlI jevuM ghara pahelAM baMdhAyuM haze ane pachI A AlIzAna baMgalo baMdhAyo haze !' 'nA, ema nathI. pahelAM AlIzAna baMgalo baMdhAyo ane pachI mahUlI baMdhAI !' 'ema ? evuM karavAnuM kaMI kAraNa ?' gAiDe kahyuM, 'enI rasika kathA che. ema kahevAya che ke gayA saikAmAM koI eka atyaMta dhanADhya vepArI potAnI patnIne laIne hajAra TApunA A vistAramAM pharavA Avyo hato. A ramaNIya pradeza joIne enI patnI to gAMDIghelI thaI gaI. ene evA bhAva jAgyA ke basa, have zeSa jIvana A nadInI vacce koI majhAnA TApu upara sarasa ghara baMdhAvIne temAM pasAra karavuM. dhananI teone koI kamI nahotI. eNe to haTha lIdhI ke, 'basa, ApaNe have ahIM ja rahevA AvIe. sArAmAM sAro TApu kharIdIne tyAM sArAmAM sAruM ghara baMdhAvI Apo.' zrImaMta vepArIe sArAmAM sArA niSNAta mANaso sAthe AvIne lorensa nadInA 1872 jeTalA badhA ja TApuonuM baMgalo bAMdhavAnI dRSTie nirIkSaNa karyuM. paraMtu eka paNa TApu ene pasaMda paDyo nahi. chevaTe eNe niSNAtonI salAha anusAra nadInA kinAre eka khaDakALa jagyAmAM vizALa baMgalo baMdhAvavAnuM cAlu karyuM. baMgalAmAM judA judA khaMDo ane temAM kImatI rAcaracIluM karAvyuM. bahAra taravA mATeno hoja, ghAsanAM

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pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana lona, Tenisa korTa, ramatagamatanA vibhAga, potAnuM juduM pAvara sTezana, nadImAM pharavA mATe boTa vagere ghaNuM vasAvyuM. surakSitatA mATe baMgalAnA vizALa kampAunDanI pharate majabUta UMcI dIvAla banAvI, potAnI patnI baMgalo joIne rAjI rAjI thaI jaze enI ene pAkI khAtarI hatI kAraNa ke e mATe eNe nANAM kharcavAmAM kazI maNA rAkhI na hatI. baMgalo baMdhAI rahyo eTale te potAnI patnIne laIne tyAM rahevA Avyo. patnIe baMgalo joyo. baMgalA tarIke te AlIzAna hato. ghaNI sArI sagavaDavALo te hato. paraMtu baMgalAmAMthI nadInuM ke emAM AvelA TApuonuM dazya dekhAtuM nahotuM. e mATe kAM to chAparA para caDavuM joie ane kAM to baMgalAnI bahAra AvI nadInA kinAre pahoMcavuM joIe. patnInuM moDhuM paDI gayuM. teNe ciDAIne kahyuM, 'meM tamane TApu upara baMgalo baMdhAvavA kahyuM hatuM, paraMtu tame to kinArA upara rajavADI jela UbhI karI dIdhI. huM A baMgalAmAM rahevAnI nathI.' patie kahyuM, 'Avo sarasa baMgalo bAMdhavA mATe eka paNa TApu anukULa nathI ema mane ane niSNAtone lAgyuM. eTale nadInA kinArA upara A jagyA pasaMda karI. have tane na game te kema cAle ! ApaNe ahIM rahevA sivAya chUTako nathI.' -- 'tamAre rahevuM hoya to rahejo. huM ahIM rahevAnI nathI. mAre to nadImAM pANInI vacce AvelA TApumAM covIsa kalAka rahevAnI naisargika jiMdagI mANavI che.' Ama patipatnI vacce takarAra ugra banI gaI. patnI baMgalo choDIne cAlI gaI. thoDe dUranA pelA TApu upara nAnI mahUlI jevuM banAvaDAvIne te tyAM ekalI rahevA lAgI. patipatnI Ama TApune kAraNe kAyamane mATe chUTAM paDyAM. koI koI vyaktine TApunA jIvananuM keTaluM badhuM gheluM hoya che te A ghaTanI parathI samajI zakAya che. thAujhanDa AilaeNnDsanI sapharamAM ame vartamAnamAM prakRtinI ramaNIyatAnuM sauMdarya mANatAM mANatAM bhUtakALanA itihAsamAM khovAI jatA hatA. sAMje TekarIo pAchaLanA sUryAstanuM sohAmaNuM dazya nihALI ame saphara pUrI karI pAchA pharyA.

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kumAmoTo nAnA nAnA seMkaDo TApuo dharAvato jApAna deza cAra mukhya moTA TApuomAM vaselo che. hokAIDo, honja, zikoku ane kayuzu. emAM Tokiyo, osAkA, kyoTo vagere zahero dharAvato hoju TApu keLavaNI, udyogo, sAMskRtika pravRttio vageremAM samRddha, pragatizIla ane AMtararASTrIya kSetre mokhare rahenAro che. cheka dakSiNe Avelo kyuzu TApu hoju karatAM thoDo pachAta lAge. tyAMnI AbohavA paNa lonca karatAM judI. kayuzu TApumAM nAgAsAkI, kumAmoTo vagere zahera moTAM che. bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate nAgAsAkImAM aNubaoNmba nAkhavAmAM Avyo hato eTale te zahera vizvavikhyAta banI gayuM che. ame nAgAsAkI joI tyAMthI hirozimA javAnA hatA. nAgAsAkathI savAre basamAM nIkaLI bapore ame kumAmoTo pahoMcyA. cha lAkhanI vastIvALuM kumAmoTo zahera aitihAsika che. taMbAku, anAja, zAkabhAjI, vAMsa, mATInAM vAsaNo vagerenA vepAranuM e moTuM mathaka che. tyAM be yunivarsiTI che. TrAma, basa, TekSI vagere vAhanonA vyavahArathI te dhamadhamatuM zahera che. jApAnamAM ekaMdare ghaNA ochA loko iMgliza bhASA bole-samaje che. temAM paNa dakSiNe AvelA A TApumAM to javalle ja koIna Igliza bhASA AvaDatI hoya. ame thoDAka jApAnI zabdo bolIe-samajIe, paraMtu keTalAka vyavahAra to IzArAthI ja karavo paDe. alabatta, amArA manamAM eTalI nirAMta hatI ke jApAnamAM koI chetarapiMDI nahi kare ke ajANyA samajIne koI amane phasAvaze nahi. jApAnanI prajA svakendrI hovA chatAM mAyALa, zAtipriya, vinayI, prAmANika ane sahakAra ApavAvALI che. kumAmoTo AvatAM basamAMthI ame sAmAna sAthe UtaryA. basanuM e moTuM mathaka hatuM. judAM judAM zaheromAM javAnI baso tyAMthI UpaDatI hatI. jApAnI bhASAmAM thoDI thoDI vAre kaI basa kyAMthI UpaDe che tenI jAherAta mAIkamAM thayA karatI hatI. hirozimAnI basa tyAMthI pakaDavA mATe amArI pAse cAreka kalAka hatA. te daramiyAna amAre kumAmoTono suprasiddha aitihAsika killo jovo hato. ame vicAryuM ke badho sAmAna sAthe UMcakIne pharavAnI jarUra nathI. basa sTezanamAM moTAM laoNkaranI pUratI sagavaDa hatI. lokara mATe koI karmacArI rAkhavAmAM AvyA na hatA. khAlI hoya te laoNkaramAM sAmAna mUkIne, te kANAmAM TharAvelA sikkA nAkhIe to ja cAvI phare ane laoNkara baMdha thAya. laoNkara baMdha thAya

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana to cAvI bahAra nIkaLe. laoNkara kholyA pachI cAvI enA kANAmAMthI nIkaLI na zake eTale ke koI bhUlathI sAmAna sAthe cAvI laI na jAya. ame sikkA nAkhI laoNkaramAM amArI baeNgo mUkI. laoNkaranI cAvI laI ame bahAra Tekasa sTenDa upara AvyA. kumAmoTonA killA mATe TekasI karavAnI hatI. killA mATe IMgliza zabda kesala DrAIvara samajaze ke nahi tenI khabara nahotI. ame TekasI DrAIvarane "phamAmoTo kesala' kahyuM. DrAIvare tarata kahyuM che ! phamAmoTo kesala.' hA kahevA mATe jApAnI loko he' bole che. DrAIvarane khabara che e jANIne ame rAjI thayA. TeksImAM ame beThA. dUra DuMgara upara kumAmoTAno killo dekhAto hato. TekSI cAlI, paNa ame joyuM ke kumAmoTonA killAnI dizAmAM thoDI vAra cAlIne pachI TakSI bIjI dizAmAM vaLI gaI. amane Azcarya thayuM. rakhene DrAIvara barAbara samajyo nahi hoya ema mAnIne ame ene jorathI spaSTa kahyuM, kumAmoTo kesala.' eNe DokuM dhuNAvI hA pADI. pote barAbara samajyo che to pachI UMdhI dizAmAM TekasI kema calAve che e vize ame sacita thayA. duniyAnAM ghaNAM zaheromAM taddana najIkanA sthaLe javA mATe pravAsIo TekSI kare tyAre teo ajANyA che evuM TekasI DrAIvara tarata samajI jAya che ane evA keTalAka aprAmANika TekasI DrAIvaro ajANyA pravAsIne pheravI pheravIne laI jAya che. jApAnanA TekasIvALA prAmANika hoya che, to paNa TeksIno vyavasAya evo che ke duniyAmAM badhe ja thoDAka to kALA kAgaDA hoya che. amArI TakasI moTA rastA upara jhaDapathI cAlI rahI hatI. baMdha kAcavALI TekasImAMthI koIne bUma pADIne puchAya evuM paNa nahotuM ane pUchIe to koNa samaje ? ame mUMjhAyA hatA. DrAIvarane pharIthI kahyuM, 'kumAmoTo kesala.' eNe pharI DokuM dhuNAvI kahyuM, "phamAmoTo kesala." thoDI vAra pachI TesI dhImI paDI. eka bAju eNe vaLAMka lIdho. ajANI jevI jagyA lAgatI hatI. divasano samaya hato ane ame traNa yuvAna mitro hatA eTale ciMtA nahotI. vaLI TekasI DrAIvaranA caherA upara evA koI hAvabhAva nahotA. eka vizALa kampAunDamAM TeksI dAkhala thaI ane eka sarasa UMcA makAnanA daravAjA pAse AvIne UbhI rahI. ame pharI pUchyuM, 'kumAmoTo kesala ?' eNe kahyuM, 'he kumAmoTo kesala.' ame TekasImAMthI nIce UtaryA. DrAIvare AMgaLI cIMdhIne batAvyuM. ame joyuM ke IglizamAM moTA akSare 'kumAmoTo kesala' lakhyuM hatuM. tarata ja amane samajAI gayuM ke A to 'kumAmoTo kesala' nAmanI hoTela che. paradezamAM ajANyA hoIe ane bhASA na AvaDatI hoya to ekasarakhAM nAmane lIdhe kevo chabaraDo thAya che teno A, amane yAda rahI jAya tevo pratyakSa anubhava thayo. amAre khAsse TekasI bhADuM cUkavavuM paDyuM ane samaya bagaDyo te vadhArAmAM. ame ghaDiyAla joI. haja killo jovA jeTalo samaya amArI

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39 kumAmoTo pAse hato. ame hoTelanA kAunTara upara gayA. sadbhAgye bhAMgyuMtUTyuM aMgrejI bolanAra eka karmacArI hato. ame ene amArI muzkelI samajAvI. chabaraDAnI vAta jANI e hasyo. pharI AvI bhUla na thAya te mATe killAnuM nAma jApAnI bhASAmAM lakhI ApavA ame ene kahyuM. ame bIjI TekasI karIne kamAmAdonA killA pAse pahoMcyA. ame TekasI choDI dIdhI, kAraNa ke sTenDa para ghaNI TekanIA UbhelI hatI. killo jovA mATenI TikiTa kharIdI ame emAM dAkhala thayA. - soLamA saikAmAM bAMdhavAmAM AvelA kumAmoTono killo jovA jevo che. eno itihAsa rasika ane romAMcaka che. sAmaMtazAhInA jamAnAmAM phamAmoTono killo eka moTA lazkarI kendra tarIke prakhyAta hato. 1877mAM sasumAno baLavo ahIMthI thayo hato. kumAmoTonA sainiko talavAra ane bhAlA vaDe yuddha karavAnI kalAmAM nipuNa hatA. kumAmoTono killo eTale sAmurAI no ItihAsa. bhAratamAM jema brAhmaNa, kSatriya, vaizya ane zudra evI varNAzramanI prathA hatI tema jApAnamAM jUnA kALamAM sainika, kheDUta, vepArI ane kArIgara evA cAra prakAranA varganI prathA hatI. temAM sainiko mATe ane lazkarI tAlIma mATe 'sAmurAI' zabda pracalita banI gayo hato. e komanA lokone yuddhakalAnI khAsa tAlIma ApavAmAM AvatI hatI. sAmurAI zabda gaurava ane parAkramanA paryAya jevo hato. keTaloka vakhata to rAjAnA mukhya senApati mATe te vaparAto hato. paraMtu pachIthI senApati mATe dAImyo' zabda pracalita banyo ane sAmAnya sainika mATe sAmurAI' zabda vaparAvA lAgyo. ogaNIsamA zatakanA uttarArdhamAM jyAre sAmaMtazAhInI prathAno aMta Avyo tyAre teonA viziSTAdhikAro ochA thaI gayA. dAImyo ane sAmurAIne varga ghasAto gayo. pachI teo mATe anukrame 'kAvAjhokI' ane 'zijhoku' zabda vaparAvA lAgyA. sAmAnya sainika karatAM sAmurAIne oLakhavAnI nizAnI e hatI ke rAjA taraphathI emane be talavAra ApavAmAM AvatI. temanA lazkarI nItiniyamo mATe khuzIdo' zabda vaparAto. tAkAta, hiMmata, parAkrama, sahanazakita, vinaya, strIdAkSiNya ane rAjA pratyenI vaphAdArI jevA guNo jenAmAM hoya, eTale ke jenAmAM khuzIdo' hoya te ja uttama sAmurAI thaI zake. koI sAmurAIthI koI gaMbhIra bhUla, guno ke AjJAbhaMga thAya to te pote hArAkIrI kare athavA hArAkIrI karavA mATe rAjya taraphathI ene AjJA thAya. hArA (peTa), kIrI eTale vidhipUrvaka ghUMTaNIe paDI, peTamAM kaTAra khosI ApaghAta karavo. jApAnamAM sAmurAI, khuzIdo, hArAkIrInI ghaNI badhI aitihAsika romAMcaka ghaTanAe che. keTalIka kiMvadaMtI che ane keTalIka kAlpanika kathAo paNa che. A kathAo uparathI ghaNAM calacitro ane nATako banyAM che. jApAnI prajAno e eka priya viSaya che.

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yo pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana kumAmoTono killo joI ame bahAra AvyA. TekasImAM beThA. ame DrAIvarane TekasI basa-sTezane levA kahyuM. "eNe DokuM dhuNAvI kahyuM, "he, basa-sTezana.' have bapora jevI garabaDa thavAno saMbhava nahoto. amArI TekasI cAlI. thoDI vAra thaI paNa basa-sTezananI koI edhANI jovA maLI nahi. rasto paNa judo lAgyo. basa-sTezana bahu dUra nahotuM. ATalI vAramAM to te AvI javuM joIe. paNa na AvyuM ethI amane vahema paDyo. pharIthI ame DrAIvarane kahyuM, "basa-sTezana' ane eNe hA kahI. amane thayuM ke jarUra pharIthI kaMIka garabaDa thaI lAge che. have to te jyAM laI jAya tyAM gayA vinA chUTako nahoto. amane ciMtA hatI ke hirozimAnI basa samayasara pakaDI zakAze ke kema ? ghaNuM aMtara kApyA pachI TekasI basa-sTezane AvIne UbhI rahI, paNa ame je basa-sTezana para UtaryA hatA tenA karatAM A basa-sTezana juduM lAgatuM hatuM. TekasIbhADuM cUkavI ame sTezanamAM dAkhala thayA. pUchaparachanI oNphisamAM pahoMcIne hirozimAnI basa kyAMthI UpaDaze te vize pUchyuM. kAunTara upara iMgliza jANanAra koI nahotuM. eka karmacArI bhAIe hAthanA IzArA vaDe hirozimAnI basanI nA pADI. ame emane samajAvavA ghaNI koziza karI paNa teo kazuM samajyA nahi. karmacArI bhalA hatA. amane madada karavA utsuka hatA. paraMtu bhASAnI agavaDane kAraNe ame amArI vAta samajAvI zakatA nahotA. daramiyAna samaya to vaheto ja rahyo hato. evAmAM amane vicAra Avyo ane amArI pAsenI laoNkaranI cAvI emane batAvI. "lokara', beMga', 'hirozimA' e zabdo ame bolatA rahyA. cAvI jotAM ja e bhAIne samajAI gayuM. emaNe kahyuM, 'basa senTrala." emaNe phoDa pADyo ke A basa-sTezana che ane AvAM laoNkara jyAM che te jagyAnuM nAma basa senTrala che. TeksIvALo amane basa-sTezana para barAbara laI Avyo hato. paNa bhUla amArI hatI. amane zI khabara ke eka ja zaheramAM basanA eka mathakane 'basasTezana' ane bIjA mathakane 'basa senTrala' kahetA haze ! ame e karmacArI bhAIne vinaMtI karI ke basa senTrala mATe jApAnI bhASAmAM lakhI Ape ke jethI TekasI karI ame tyAM pahoMcI jaIe. evAmAM eNe potAnI ghaDiyALamAM joyuM ane kaMIka vicAra karI potAnI sAthe AvavA jaNAvyuM. ame emanI pAchaLa cAlyA. thoDe dUra pArka karelI eka basa pAse teo amane laI gayA ane IzArAthI kahyuM ke e basa tarata ja UpaDe che ane basa senTrala jAya che. temano AbhAra mAnI ame basamAM beThA, thoDI vAramAM basa senTrala pahoMcyA. amArI najara to satata ghaDiyALa upara hatI. ame basamAMthI UtarI tarata doDyA. laoNkaramAMthI sAmAna lIdho ane hirozimAM mATenI basa jyAMthI UpaDavAnI hatI tyAM pahoMcyA. haju basa UpaDavAne traNa miniTanI vAra hatI. sAmAna mUkIne ame basamAM goThavAyA. ame hAMphI gayA hatA, paraMtu samayasara

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kumAmoTo basa maLI gaI eTale rAhata anubhavI, kAraNa ke jo basa gumAvata to kumAmoTomAM rAta rokAvuM paData ane amAro AgaLano badho kAryakrama khoravAI jAta. Ama, eka ja divasamAM, thoDA kalAkomAM ja amane be vAra nAmanA goTALAno mUMjhavaNabharyo anubhava thayo. duniyAmAM ghaNAM zaheromAM have eka karatAM vadhu relave sTezana, basa-sTezana, eraporTa temAM paNa DomesTika ane InTaranezanala vagere thayAM che. eTale nAmasAmyanI gerasamajanA anubhavo ajANyA pravAsIone vakhatovakhata thatA rahevAnA. temAM paNa bhASAnI agavaDa hoya to kayAreka kaTu anubhavo paNa thavAnA. -

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saharAnA raNamAM duniyAnuM moTAmAM moTuM raNa te saharA. e raNamAMthI unALAnI bharabapore pasAra thavuM e jevItevI vAta nathI, paraMtu me mahinAnI asahya garamImAM ame saharAnuM raNa kevI rIte oLaMgyuM haze ? IjiptanuM pATanagara kero che. tyAMnA loko potAnA A zaherane kahArA' (kAhirA) kahe che. briTiza hakUmata daramiyAna kahArAnuM kero' thaI gayuM hatuM, je Aja divasa sudhI cAlu che. ame kerothI elekajhAnDriyA javAnA hatA. bhUmadhya samudranA kinAre AveluM ijiptanuM e suMdara majAnuM prAcIna baMdara che. amAro kAryakrama kerothI savAre nIkaLI elekajhAnDriyA joIne pAchA pharavAno hato. ame pacIseka pravAsIo hatA. amArA mATe ArAmadAyaka basanI vyavasthA karavAmAM AvI hatI. amane kahevAmAM AvyuM hatuM ke elekajhAnDriyA pahoMcatAM cAreka kalAka thaze. mATe rAtre veLAsara jo pAchAM AvI javuM hoya to savAre sAta vAge amAre nIkaLI javuM joIe. ame badhA pravAsIo savAre vahelA UThI, taiyAra thaI hoTela 'phalAmenkomAMthI nIkaLIne basamAM goThavAyA. DrAIvara ane gAIDa yuvatI amArI rAha jotAM basamAM beThAM hatAM. badhAM AvI jatAM basa UpaDI. amArI gAIDe kahyuM, "AjanI elekajhAnDriyAnI TUramAM huM tamArI gAIDa chuM. mAruM nAma nivinA che. eno artha krisTamasa' thAya che, paraMtu huM krizciyana nathI, huM muslima chuM. ApaNA DrAIvaranuM nAma husena che. te bahu hoziyAra ane anubhavI che. elekajhAnDriyA sudhInuM aMtara 220 kilomITara jeTaluM che. saharAnA raNamAM karavAmAM AvelA navA raste ApaNe jaIzuM. jUno rasto nAIla nadInI pAsenA khetIvADInA vistAromAM AvelAM nAnAM nAnAM gAmaDAMmAMthI pasAra thAya che. te ghaNo lAMbo che. temAM samaya paNa ghaNo lAge che. keTalAka samayathI, varlDa baeNnkanI sahAyathI, raNamAM A navo saLaMga, sIdho rasto karavAmAM Avyo che. vAhano mATe AvavA-javAnA mArga bAju bAjumAM paNa judA judA che. elekajhAnDriyA pahoMcatAM cAreka kalAka ApaNane thaI jaze. basanI saphara lAMbI che. eTale tamArAmAMthI jene vacce thoDIka UMgha kheMcI levI hoya tene te kheMcI levA mATe anukULatA raheze.' tyAM to gAiDane aTakAvIne amArAmAMthI keTalAka atyutsAhI pravAsIo tarata vacce bolI UThyA, nA, nA. ame UMghavA nathI AvyA. ame to badhuM jovA ane samajavA AvyA chIe. ame to A pravAsanI bahu utsukatAthI rAha jotA hatA.' 42

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S saharAnA rANamAM gAIDe kahyuM, "vAha! bahu ja sarasa! tamArA utsAhathI mAro utsAha paNa vadhI gayo che. elekajhAnDriyAnI TUra vize tamAre je kaMI prazno pUchavA hoya te ni:saMkoca pUchajo. mane e gamaze. pahelAM huM tamane amArA deza Ijipta vize keTalIka mAhitI ApIza.' gAIDe tyAra pachI IjiptanI prAcIna saMskRti, pirAmiDo, mamI, videzIonAM AkramaNo vagere vize rasaprada mAhitI ApI. Ijipta bhaugolika daSTie moTo deza che. paraMtu emAMthI Azare cAra-pAMca TakA jeTalA pradezamAM ja lokono vasavATa che; te paNa ghaNuMkharuM nAIla nadInA baMne kAMThe. IjiptanI lagabhaga paMcANuM TakA jamIna raNa che. nAIlanA pazcima kinArAnuM raNa te saharAnuM raNa che. pUrva kAMThAnA raNane sAInAInuM raNa kahevAmAM Ave che. duniyAmAM ghaNIkharI nadIo pUrvathI pazcima dizAmAM ke pazcimathI pUrva dizAmAM vahe che. paraMtu nAIla nadI eka evI che ke je dakSiNa dizAmAMthI uttara dizAmAM vahe che. tenuM kAraNa e che ke IjiptanA uttara bhAgamAM Avelo saharAno raNavistAra nIcANavALo che. keTaleka ThekANe to te dariyAnI sapATI karatAM so-baso phUTathI vadhu nIco che. nAIla nadImAM bAre mAsa pANI rahe che. ethI nadInA kAMThAvistAramAM sArI khetI thAya che. tyAM gAmo vaselAM che. nAIla nadI bhUmadhya samudrane jyAM maLe che e nadIno mukha-vistAra (Delta) bahu phaLadrupa hovAthI tyAM ThIka ThIka vastI che. elekajhAnDriyA baMdara e vistAramAM AveluM che. kero zahera choDI amArI basa AgaLa cAlavA lAgI. rastAnI najIka baMne bAjue koIka koIka makAna dekhAtAM rahyAM, paNa baMne bAju dUra dUra kSitija sudhI mAtra raNa hatuM. unALAmAM saharAnuM raNa jotAM ja jhaMkhanAnA pratIka tarIke kavi suMdarame karelA enA upayogavALI paMktio yAda AvI gaI : tane meM jhaMkhI che, yugothI dhIkhelA, prakhara saharAnI tarasathI. saharAnuM raNa AphrikA khaMDanA uttara bhAgamAM, pazcimamAM rAtA samudrathI zarU karI pUrvamAM eTalAnTika mahAsAgara sudhI te Azare paMcotera lAkha corasa kilomITara jeTalA vistAramAM patharAyeluM che. AphrikAnA dezo Ijipta, sudAna, libiyA, TyuniziyA, aljiriyA, morokko vageremAM te phelAyeluM che ema kahevA karatAM saharAnA raNamAM A badhA dezonI rAjakIya sImA AMkavAmAM AvI che ema kahevuM vadhu yogya che. AphrikAnA pUrva kAMThAthI pazcima kAMThA sudhI saLaMga pAMca hajAra kilomITara jeTaluM te lAMbuM che. saharAnuM AkhuM raNa te mAtra retInuM raNa nathI. keTalAka vistAromAM te khaDakonuM

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana baneluM che; keTalAka vistAramAM te patharALa che; vaLI amuka vistAramAM temAM navathI dasa hajAra phUTa UMcA, vanaspatirahita sUkA parvato AvelA che. jUnA vakhatathI saharAnA raNamAM eka sthaLethI pAsenA bIje sthaLe javAnA najIka najIkanA rastAo thayelA che. rakhaDu jAtinA loko UMTa upara gharavakharI ane kuTuMbanA sabhyone laI, jyAM pANI ane jhADapAnane lIdhe ThaMDaka hoya evA sthaLe mukAma kare che. evAM sthaLone raNadvIpa (Oasis) kahe che. evI rIte eka raNadvIpathI bIjA raNadvIpa sudhInI saphara karI, mukAma karI, pharI AgaLa saphara vadhAranAra vaNajhArA jevI jAtinA loko AphrikAnA saharAnA raNamAM haju paNa che. alabatta, raNamAM, evA vistAro paNa che ke jyAM pahoMcavuM eTale motane notaravA barAbara gaNAya. divase atizaya garamI, rAtre atizaya ThaMDI, ghaDIkamAM mANasane dATI de evI UDatI retInAM vAvAjhoDAM, vATamAM khorAka-pANI khUTI javAM vagere prakAranAM bhayaMkara jokhamo ochAM nathI. have to AkhuM saharAnuM raNa khUdAI gayuM che. bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate saharAnA raNamAM paNa yuddha khelAyuM hatuM. helikaoNpTaranI sagavaDa pachI to AvaDA moTA raNamAM paNa koI jagyA vaNazodhI, vaNamApI rahI nathI. pAMca hajAra kilomITara lAMbA saharAnA raNamAM amAre to phakta baso vIsa kilomITaranuM aMtara raNanA eka khUNAmAM eka cheDAthI bIjA cheDA sudhInuM kApavAnuM hatuM. saharAnA raNamAMthI pasAra thavuM eTalo anubhava paNa amArA mATe romAMcaka hato. rasto nAkanI dAMDIe sIdho cAlyo jato hato. AvA nirjana raNavistAramAM rasto karavAno hoya to tene vaLAMka ApavAnI jarUra UbhI na thAya. eTale basa to pANInA relAnI jema sIdhI saDasaDATa cAlI jatI hatI. rastAnI baMne bAju karelI vADamAM raNapradezamAM UgI zake evI vanaspati vAvavAmAM AvI hatI. thora (Cactus)nA prakAranI vanaspatine pANI khAsa na joIe. havAmAMthI ja te bheja grahaNa karI le ane sUryaprakAzamAMthI poSaNa meLavI le. pAMdaDAM vagaranA mAtra DAMkhaLAvALA nAnA nAnA choDa paNa rastAnI baMne bAju vAvelA hatA. kayAMka sAva nAnAM nAnAM vRkSo paNa hatAM. moTAM ghaTAdAra vRkSonuM to raNamAM kayAMya nAmanizAna jovA na maLe. amArI gAIDe kahyuM ke "A raNapradezane khIlavavA amArI sarakAra taraphathI evI yojanA karavAmAM AvI che ke jene jamIna joItI hoya tene najIvA bhAve te ApavAmAM Ave. vaLI dasa varSanA haste te rakama bharavAnI rahe. paNa zarata eTalI ke te lenAre jamInamAM khetIvADI karavI joIe. khAsa to drAkSa, khajUra vagere raNamAM thAya tevI vanaspati ugADI zakAya. dara varSe tenI pragatinuM sarakArI vahIvaTItaMtra nirIkSaNa kare che. nAIla nadImAMthI nahera dvArA ahIM pANI lAvI zakAya che. athavA amuka phaLadrupa vistAramAM TyUbavela dvArA paNa pANI meLavI zakAya che. tema chatAM tame joI zakazo ke bahu ochA

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saharAnA raNamAM 5 loko raNamAM AvyA che. vaLI A pradezamAM jeo kArakhAnAM karavA icche teone paNa sastA dare jamIna ApavAmAM Ave che. teone mATe evI zarata che ke je teo kArakhAnAnA vistAramAM kAmadAro mATe eka masjida bAMdhe to teone karaverAmAMthI mukti ApavAmAM Ave. koI koI sthaLe tamane be masjido sAva pAse pAse jovA maLe to ema na samajavuM ke amArA loko bahu dhArmika thaI gayA che, paNa samajavuM ke be kArakhAnAM bAju bAjumAM AvelAM che.' aDadhe raste virAmasthAna AvyuM. ene lIluMchama banAvavAmAM AvyuM che. resTerAM, dukAno, peTrolapampa, pArkiMga vistAra, karmacArIo mATenAM raheThANanAM makAno vagerenI racanA tyAM karavAmAM AvI che. raNamAM hariyALA raNadvIpa jevI e jagyA hatI. aDadho kalAka ame tyAM rokAyA. bhUkha lAgI hatI eTale dareke potapotAnI anukULatA mujaba khAdhuMpIdhuM. basanA DrAivare virAmasthAnamAM AMTo mAryo. eka kapa kaoNphI pIdhI ane pAcho AvIne te basamAM potAnI jagyAe besI gayo. bhUkha lAge eTalo TAima thaI gayo hovA chatAM teNe kazuM khAdhuM nahi. basamAM AvIne ame DrAivarane amArA nAstAmAMthI magajanA lADu, khAkharA, gAMThiyA, seva vagere ApyAM. DrAivare e sasmita, AbhAra sahita svIkAryAM ane kahyuM ke pote pachIthI khAze. DrAivara svastha citte zAMtithI basa calAvato hato. potAnI sAme eNe eka khokhAmAM cyuiMga-gama, caoNkaleTa vagere rAkhyAM hatAM. bIjA eka khokhAmAM sigAreTa hatI. DrAivara thoDI thoDI vAre cyuiMga-gama cagaLyA karato hato. vacce vacce sigareTa saLagAvI pIto hato. vaLI te ijiptanAM lokagItonI Tepa vagADyA karato. amArI gAiDe kahyuM ke 'DrAivara keromAM ghaNe dUra rahe che. savAranA pAMca vAge UThI, kaMpanImAM jaI basa laIne te AvI pahoMcyo che. AvA raste kaMTALo na Ave te mATe te lokagIto vagADe che.' amArI basa have AgaLa cAlI rahI hatI. bahAra dUra dUra sudhI baMne bAju aphATa raNa patharAyeluM hatuM. TheTha kSitija sudhI eka vRkSa to zuM, ghAsanuM taNakhaluM paNa dekhAtuM na hatuM. have jovA-samajAvavAnuM kazuM rahyuM nahotuM. gAIDe be-traNa vAra pUchyuM ke koIne kaMI prazna pUchavo che ? paNa prazna pUchavAno koIne utsAha have rahyo na hato. bahAra sakhata garamI hatI, paraMtu basamAM eNrakanDizananI sArI ThaMDaka hatI. keTalAke to bahArathI taDako na Ave te mATe paDadA paNa pADI dIdhA hatA. basamAM AchA aMdhArA sahita majAnI zItaLatA prasarI gaI hatI. vahelA UThelA pravAsIonAM zramita citta, AhAra pachI zAMta thaI gayAM hatAM. ekasarakhI sIdhI gatie cAlatI basamAM eka pachI ekanI AMkho DhaLavA lAgI hatI. thoDI vAramAM to badhAM jholA khAvA lAgyAM. ame jovA AvyA chIe, UMghavA nahi' evuM kahenArA paNa svapno jovAmAM paDI gayA hatA. pachI to gAiDa i

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46 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana yuvatI paNa potAnI beThaka parathI UThI. pahelI sITamAM beThelo huM tenI sAme joIne hasyo, kAraNa ke mane thayuM ke te paNa have sUI jaze. mAruM anumAna sAcuM paDyuM. teNe kahyuM, 'huM savAre bahu vahelI UThI chuM. chellI sITa khAlI che. tyAM thoDI vAra ArAma karI lau.' badhA pravAsIo UMghI gayA. varSothI moTarakAra calAvavAne kAraNe mane paDelI kudaratI Tevane lIdhe mArI najara satata rastA para hatI. DrAivare zA mATe khAdhuM nahi te have samajAyuM. khAdhA pachI baporanA vakhate, TrAphika vagaranA saLaMga sIdhA raste, koInI sAthe vAta karyA vagara, moTara ke basa calAvavAmAM thAkeluM citta kyAre jhole caDI jAya te kahevAya nahi. DrAivare arIsAmAMthI joyuM ke gAiDa sahita badhAM ja UMghI gayA che. huM DrAivara sAthe izArAthI mArA hAvabhAva vyakta karIne thAya tevI vAta karato, paraMtu amArI vacce vadhu vAtacIta thaI zakatI nahotI kAraNa ke baMnene ekabIjAnI bhASA AvaDatI nahotI. kalAka jeTalo samaya pasAra thaI gayo. have dUra dUra kSitija upara zaheranAM makAno dekhAvAM lAgyAM. DrAivare acAnaka jorathI haoNrna vagADyuM. rastAmAM vacce kaLe AvatuM nahotuM to pachI haoNrna vagADavAnI jarUra zI ? pachI samajAyuM ke eNe oNrna gAdana uThADavA vagADyuM hatuM. gAiDa UThI gaI. DrAivara pAsenI potAnI sITamAM AvIne te besI gaI. hAthamAM mAika laI teNe badhAMne jAgRta thavA vinaMtI karI. gAIDe AvI rahelA elekajhAnDriyA zaherano itihAsa kahyo. samrATa elekajhAnDare I.sa. pUrve 332mAM A zahera vasAvyuM hatuM. ame elekajhAnDriyA pahoMcyA. gherA vAdaLI raMganA pANIvALA bhUmadhya samudranA kinAre AveluM e ramaNIya baMdara che. bhUmadhyanA sAme kinAre yuropamAMthI grIka, romana ane turka lokoe AkramaNo karyAM hatAM. elekajhAnDriyAe ghaNI caDatI-paDatI joI che. ame ahIM emphi thiyaTara, keTAkomba, pompeIno staMbha, dIvAdAMDI, rAjamahela vagere joyAM. sAMja paDavA AvI eTale ame kero pAchA pharavA nIkaLyA. dariyAkinAre kSitija upara sUryAsta jovAnI jema eka majA che, tema dUra dUra sudhI vistarelI retInA raNamAM kSitija upara sUryAsta jovAnI paNa eka majA che. aDadhe raste ame AvyA tyAM to sUryAsta thaI gayo. vacce virAmasthAnamAM cA-kaoNphI pIne ame AgaLa cAlyA. keronI sarahada dekhAvA lAgI eTale DrAivare gADI calAvatAM calAvatAM nAsto khAvAnuM zarU karyuM. have jhokAM Ave evuM jokhama rahyuM nahotuM. elekajhAnDriyA ane saharAnA raNano pravAsa pUro karI ame kero pAchA AvI pahoMcyA. duniyAmAM mAnavavastInuM pramANa chellA traNa-cAra dAyakAmAM ghaNuM ja vadhI gayuM che. ema kahevAya che ke A rIte jo vastI vadhatI jaze to ekavIsamI sadInA aMta pahelAM dasa-bAra abajathI paNa vadhu vastI thaI jaze. vartamAna samayamAM eziyAnA ghaNA dezo atizaya gIca vastIvALA che. AMkaDAzAstrIo kahe che ke duniyAnI vastI

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saharAnA raNamAM 47 vadhAre che. paraMtu pRthvI upara jeTalI jamIna che enA pramANamAM sarerAza vastI vadhAre nathI. saharAno raNapradeza, oNsTreliyAno raNapradeza, gobIno raNapradeza tathA bIjAM nAnAMmoTAM raNo phaLadrupa banAvI zakAya ane mAnavavastIne tyAM vasAvI zakAya to vastIno prazna ghaNo haLavo banI jAya. vaijJAnika saMzodhana, Arthika sahakAra ane rAjadvArI dUraMdezI dhAre to raNone phaLadrupa banAvavAmAM ghaNo phALo ApI zake. paraMtu bIjI bAju amane raNa posAze, paNa bahAranAM bIjAM rASTronI vastI nahi posAya. amane garIbI posAze paNa amArI AnuvaMzika sAMskRtika lAkSaNikatAno lopa nahi poSAya'--evI vRtti jyAM sudhI duniyAnAM judAM judAM rASTronI raheze, tyAM sudhI vastIno prazna sahelAIthI haLavo nahi thAya. ekavIsamI sadInA aMta sudhImAM mAnavajAte A dizAmAM keTalI pragati karI haze te koNa kahI zake ?

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' mAunTa Ana ame jyAre soviyeTa yuniyananA pravAsanuM Ayojana karyuM tyAre TrAvela kaMpanInA sTAphanA sabhye amArI pravAsI-grupanI miTiMgamAM kahyuM, 'mAre tamane eka khuzakhabara ApavAnA che. soviyeTa yuniyananI 'inaTUrisTa' kaMpanIe tamArA pravAsamAM eka vadhArAnuM sthaLa umerI ApyuM che. enuM nAma che mAunTa Abuna. e mATe tamAre koi vadhArAnI rakama ApavAnI nathI.' mAunTa Abuna (anya uccAra pramANe Ahuna) nAmanuM sthaLa duniyAmAM kyAM AvyuM enI tyAre amane kazI ja khabara nahotI. e nAma paNa pahelI vAra ame sAMbhaLyuM, paraMtu duniyAnA koIka ajANyA khUNAmAM AveluM eka ajANyuM sthaLa jiMdagImAM jovA maLaze e vAtano amane bahu AnaMda thayo. nakazAmAM amane batAvavAmAM AvyuM ke soviyeTa yuniyanamAM, raziyAmAM naiRtya dizAnA cheDe, kALA samudra(Black Sea)nA kinAre AvelA socI nAmanA nagarathI vIseka mAIla dUra Akhuna parvata Avelo che. nahi dhArelA, nahi kalpelA, nahi jANelA evA koI sthaLe ajANatAM javAnA saMjogo UbhA thAya emAM paNa koI saMketa rahyo haze ! meM mArA pravAsI mitrone kahyuM ke 'je sthaLe je samaye je vyaktine javAnuM nirmAyuM hoya tyAM gayA vagara eno chUTako nathI. kyAreka hozathI javAnuM thAya che, to kayAreka lAcAra banIne ke du:khI thavA mATe javuM paDe che. kyAreka koIka UMcakIne tyAM laI jAya che. AvI rIte je jaLa ke sthaLano sparza thavAno hoya tene jaina dharmamAM 'kSetrasparzanA' kahevAmAM Ave che. mArA eka mitre kahyuM, 'ApaNA badhAnI mAunTa AbunanI kSetrasparzanA haze ja, nahi to e sthaLa Ama sAmethI umerAya kevI rIte ?' soviyeTa yuniyanamAM keTalAka sthaLono pravAsa karI ame be divasanI saphara mATe socInA eNrapaoNrTa para UtaryA tyAre sthAnika gAiDa yuvatI amane AvakAravA mATe AvI pahoMcI hatI. enuM nAma hatuM liyonA. ame basamAM goThavAyA. liyonAe socIno paricaya ApatAM kahyuM, 'samagra soviyeTa yuniyanamAM havA khAvAnA sarvazreSTha sthaLa tarIke socInI gaNanA thAya che. bahu jUnA vakhatamAM ahIM ubecI jAtinA loko vasatA hatA. teo mATe 'socI' zabda paNa vaparAto hato. eTale vakhata jatAM A jagyAnuM nAma 'socI' paDI gayuM.' 48

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mAunTa Abuna 49 socI kokesasa parvatanI taLeTImAM ane kALA samudranA kinAre AveluM aitihAsika sthaLa che. ahIM banAvAjinaskoye' nAmano killo che. enI sthApanA I.sa. 1896mAM thayelI. soviyeTa yuniyananI racanA pachI 1930 thI 1950nA gALAmAM socIno ghaNo vikAsa thayo. ahIM cAnA bagIcA che; tamAkunAM khetaro che ane phaLanI vADIo che. ahIM garama pANInA jharA che. parvatamAMthI vahetAM jharaNAMonuM ahIMnuM kSAravALuM pANI tabiyata mATe sAruM gaNAya che. eTale ja ahIM havAphera ane Arogya mATe ghaNAM saeNneToriyama che. ahIM taDako ThIka ThIka paDe che. eTale A vistAranI havA paNa Arogya mATe vakhaNAya che. socInI vastI sADA traNa lAkhanI che. paNa ahIM unALAnA divasomAM samagra soviyeTa yuniyanamAMthI rojeroja hajAro pravAsIo Ave che. jeone DaoNkTare bhalAmaNa lakhI ApI hoya teo AvI zake che. ahIM hArabaMdha ghaNAM badhAM jabarajasta moTAM moTAM seneToriyama che. dardIone sAmAnya rIte vadhumAM vadhu eka mahino rahevA devAmAM Ave che. dareka pAse DaoNkTaranuM sarTiphikeTa uparAMta potAnA TreDayuniyananI ciThThI hovI jarUrI che. badhA tArIkha pramANe Ave ane tArIkha pramANe jAya. ahIM badhuM ja vyavasthita hoya che. unALAmAM amuka vakhate jyAre sauthI vadhu loko havAphera mATe AvyA hoya tyAre socInI vastI vadhIne vIsa lAkhe pahoMcI jAya che. bahAragAmanA pravAsIonI basonI Avana-jAvana tyAre Akho divasa satata cAlyA kare. amArI hoTela zaheranA eka cheDe hatI. hoTelamAM jaI sAmAna mUkI, laMca laI, thoDo ArAma karI ame basamAM pharavA nIkaLyA. liyonA badhuM samajAvatI hatI. amane 'dAgomI' nAmanA cAnA bagIcAmAM laI javAmAM AvyA. tyAra pachI amane 'riviyarA' nAmanA sauthI moTA udyAnamAM pheravavAmAM AvyA. sAMje ame hoTela para pAchA pharyA tyAre liyonAe kahyuM, "have AvatI kAlano divasa tamAre svecchAe pharavA mATeno che.' 'paNa kAryakrama pramANe to kAle mAunTa Abuna javAnuM che ne !' amArAmAMnA keTalAka bolI UThyA. "oha ! tamane saMdezo maLyo nathI ?' liyonAe Azcarya vyakta karatAM umeryuM, "mApha karajo, mAunTa Akhunano kAryakrama baMdha rahyo che. tyAMno rasto bahu kharAba che. thoDA divasa pahelAM ja sarakAre tyAM koI paNa basane javAnI manAI pharamAvI che. tyAM javuM salAhabharyuM nathI. socImAM AsapAsa pharavAnAM ghaNAM sthaLa che. tame samudrakinAre jaI zako; sToramAM jaI kharIdI karI zako tamArI hoTelamAM paNa pAchaLa ramaNIya jhADI che tyAM pharI zako. dUra javuM hoya to thiyeTaramAM bele jevA paNa jaI zako. eTaluM yAda rAkhaje ke ahIM rastAmAM adhavacce TekasI maLatI nathI. hoTelavALA phona karIne TekasI bolAvI Apaze. ahIM TekasI ochI che eTale keTalIka vAra TeksIvALA iMgliza pUruM

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50 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana samajatA nathI ane marajI mujaba rakama mAge che. bane tyAM sudhI javA-AvavAnuM sAthe TharAvajo, nahi to page cAlatAM pAchA pharavuM paDaze.' mAunTa Abuna nahi javA maLe e jANIne badhA nirAza thaI gayA. mArA eka mitre kahyuM, ramaNabhAI, tame kahetA hatA ke badhAnI kSetrasparzanA haze mATe pravAsamAM Akhuna umerAyuM che. paNa have ApaNI kSetrasparzanA lAgatI nathI. mAtra nAmasparzanA haze. kAraNa ke vagara jijJAsAe AkhunanuM nAma ApaNane nirAza thavA mATe jANavA maLyuM.' meM kahyuM, 'hA, sAcI vAta che, narasiMha mahetAe kahyuM che ne ke, 'jehanA bhAgyamAM je same je lakhyuM, tehane te same te ja pahoMce.' haju sUryAsta thavAne ThIka ThIka vAra hatI eTale ame rUma para jaI, hAtha-moDhuM dhoI, cA-pANI laI pharavA mATe nIce UtaryA. amArI hoTela samudrakinAre hatI, paraMtu samudranI sapATIthI lagabhaga pAMcaso phUTa Uce hatI. hoTelano pAchaLano bhAga samudra tarapha hato. pAchaLanA daravAjethI e bAju nIce javA mATe pagathI hatI. samudra kinArAnA vistAramAM beThA ghATanAM, mALa vagaranAM nAnAM nAnAM gharo hatAM. enI vaccenI zerImAMthI samudrakinAre pahoMcAtuM hatuM. gharomAM rahetA loko sAdhAraNa sthitinA lAgyA. koIka pheriyA phaLa vecavA beThA hatA. nAnAM nAnAM chokarAMo zerImAM ramatAM hatAM. soviyeTa raziyAmAM sAmyavAdane lIdhe tamAma lokone anna, vastra ane raheThANa maLe, paNa keTalAka vistAromAM UjaLApaNuM na dekhAya. enI pratIti A gharo joIne amane thaI. socImAM kALA samudranA kinAre retIno paTa nathI. khaDakone aDIne pANI che. pANI sAva kALuM nahi paNa kALAza paDatA gherA bhUrA raMganuM hatuM. bIjA samudranAM pANInA raMganI apekSAe ene bleka sI' kahI zakAya, nahi to ene mATe 'DArka blyu' zabda ja vadhu yogya gaNAya. pANI UMDuM hatuM. samudramAM koI taravA paDyuM nahotuM. eTale amAre mATe ajANyA pANImAM taravA paDavAmAM sAhasa hatuM. ame mAtra pALI para besI pANImAM paga palALyA. samaya thatAM hoTela para pAchA pharI bhojana laI ame sUI gayA. bIje divase savAre cA-nAsto karI sau potapotAnA jUthamAM pharavA nIkaLI paDyA. AsapAsa bahAra laTAra mArI ame pAchA hoTelamAM AvyA. mAunTa Abuna javAnuM nahotuM eTale amAre mAtra samaya pasAra karavAno hato. amArA eka anubhavI mitrane badhAnI sAthe vAta karavAnuM bahu game. hoTelanA sTAphanA sabhyomAMthI jemane IMgliza bhASA AvaDatI hatI temanI sAthe vAta karIne temaNe pAkuM karI lIdhuM ke Akhuna parvata para koI basa jatI nathI. pharavAnAM anya sthaLonI mAhitI paNa temaNe meLavI lIdhI. ame pAMca mitroe eka sToramAM javAnuM nakkI karyuM.

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51 mAunTa Abuna e mATe kaMI moDuM vaheluM thatuM nahotuM. eTale TeksI bolAvavA mATenI vadhArAnI rakama ApavA karatAM koI TakasI khAlI thatI hoya to te levA ane daravAjA bahAra UbhA rahyA. keTalIka vAra pachI eka TekasI AvI. ame tenI sAthe nakkI karavA gayA. vAtamAM ne vAtamAM ame kahyuM, "amAre javAnuM hatuM to mAunTa Abuna, paNa tyAMno rasto bahu kharAba thaI gayo che eTale amAruM tyAM javAnuM baMdha rahyuM che.' koNe kahyuM ke rasto kharAba thaI gayo che ?' TekasI DrAIvare sAmo prazna karyo. amArI gAIDa kahyuM, "vaLI hoTelanA sTAphe paNa kahyuM ke mAunTa Abuna koI basa jatI nathI. kAraNa ke rasto kharAba ane jokhamI che. 'hA, e vAta sAcI che ke rasto jokhamI che. e raste hamaNAM basa sarvisa baMdha karI devAmAM AvI che; paNa TekasI tyAM jaI zake che.' ame tarata nirNaya laI lIdho ke Akhuna javAtuM hoya to javuM ja che. TeksInA bhAva ghaNA vadhAre lAgyA, paNa javuM eTale javuM. TesI cAlI. kALA samudranA kinAre kinAre bAMdhavAmAM AvelA raste ame AgaLa vadhyA. pachI TeksIe Akhuna bAju vaLAMka lIdho. caDhANavALo rasto cAlu thayo. baMne bAju lIlAMchama vRkSo hatAM. jhADI gIca hatI. vAta karatAM karatAM AkhunanI basa sevA baMdha thaI javAnuM mULa kAraNa TekasIDrAIvara pAsethI jANavA maLyuM. sAMkaDA ane vaLAMkovALA ghATa jevA A rastAmAM thoDA divasa pahelAM keTalAka amerikana pravAsIo AvelA. e vakhate be basa ekabIjA sAthe athaDAtAM koIka pravAsIne saheja vAgI gayeluM. eNe soviyeTa sarakAra para moTI rakamano dAvo mAMDyo. evo dAvo soviyeTa sarakAra zAnI maMjUra kare ? paNa eNe AkhunanI basasevA tarata baMdha karI dIdhI. vaLI TekasI DrAIvare kahyuM ke rasto kharAba che eTale evuM nathI ke tUTI gayo che, ke bagaDI gayo che. rasto jokhamI che, kAraNa ke sAMkaDo che ane parvatanI Toca para pahoMcatAM ghaNA badhA vaLAMko Ave che. paNa gADI calAvavAnI daSTie TheTha sudhI te sAro che. sAmasAmI be TekasI Ave to baMnee dhIme paDI javuM paDe. pachI eka UbhI rahe ane bIjI nIkaLI jAya. koI vakhata evuM paNa bane ke sAmasAme pasAra na thaI zakAya to vAhana thoDuM AgaLapAchaLa karIne nIkaLavuM paDe.' ame Akhuna parvata para AvyA. raziyAmAM kokesasa parvatanI hAramALAmAM samudranI sapATIthI lagabhaga aDhI hajAra phUTanI UMcAI dharAvatA A parvatanuM bhUtakALamAM lazkarI daSTie ghaNuM mahattva haze ema jaNAya che. parvatanI Toca para vizALa sapATa jamInamAM killo che. temAM vacce uttuMga TAvara jevI kALA paththaranI racanA karavAmAM AvI che. AsapAsanA dezanA lazkarI nirIkSaNa mATe ja A Observation Tower banAvelo lAgyo. emAM dAkhala thaI aMdarathI lagabhaga doDhaso jeTalAM pagathiyAM caDI ame enI agAzImAM pahoMcyA. mAthe savArano taDako hato, paNa zItala havAne lIdhe te eTalo

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52 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana lAgato nahoto. eka bAju kSitija para kokesasa parvatanI hAramALAnAM keTalAMka zikharo dekhAtAM hatAM. raziyA, jyorjiyA, ArmeniyA ane AjharabaijAnanAM rAjyone joDatI Azare bAraso kilomITara lAMbI A parvatIya hAramALA yuropa ane eziyAnA khaMDone judA pADe che. prAcIna kALamAM kokejhiyana jAtinA sapheda cAmaDIvALA loko krame krame samagra yuropamAM prasarI gayA. e jAtinuM nAma A parvatamALA sAthe saMkaLAyeluM che. * bIjI bAju najara karatAM kALo samudra dekhAto hato. bAraso kilomITara lAMbA A baMdhiyAra samudraIinland Sea)nA kinAre rUmAniyA, balbariyA, yukreIna, raziyA, jyorjiyA ane turkastAna AvelAM che. A badhA rAjyo vacce samudranA jaLavistAra upara sarasAI meLavavA mATe bhUtakALamAM vakhatovakhata nAnAMmoTAM ghaNAM yuddho khelAyAM che. ogaNIsamA saikAmAM, sAmasAmA kinAre AvelAM raziyA ane turkastAna vacce to dariyAmAM naukAsenAo vacce vAraMvAra laDAIo thatI rahI ane vIsamI sadImAM TheTha bIjA vizvayuddha sudhI te cAlyA karI hatI. aneka sainikonAM lohI A samudramAM reDAyAM che. AthI ja apazukaniyALa manAtA A samudranuM nAma kALo samudra paDI gayuM hatuM. haju paNa koI koI vAra nAnAM chamakalAM ane cAMciyAgIrInA banAvo A samudramAM banatA rahe che. agAzImAMthI cAre bAjunuM nirIkSaNa karyA pachI amane ema lAgyuM ke bhUtakALamAM vakhatovakhata yuddhanA ratathI kharaDAyelI A bhUminI zAMti mATe ahIM besIne ApaNe prArthanA karavI joIe.' maunapUrvaka UbhA UbhA zAMtithI manamAM prArthanA karyA pachI ema paNa thayuM ke zA mATe besIne prArthanA na karavI joIe? bUTa-caMpala kADhI ame pAMce jaNa nIce besI gayA. sAmAnya rIte ahIM koI pravAsI AvuM na kare. sau koI ahIM agAzImAM Ave, cArebAju UbhAM UbhAM, pharatAM pharatAM jue, phoTA pADe ane nIce UtarI jAya. ame palAMThI vALIne beThA. prArthanAmAM zuM bolIzuM ? nakkI thayuM ke navakAramaMtra, laghu zAMti, moTI zAMti, bhaktAmara stotra ane Atmasiddhi bolavAM. ane chelle du:khakSaya mATe cAra logassano kAusagga karavo. ame eka pachI eka stotra bulaMda kaMThe bolavA lAgyA. koI apUrva ullAsa anubhavAto hato. thoDI vAramAM keTalAka pravAsIo AvyA. vAto karatAM karatAM ane pagarakhAMnA avAja sAthe teo agAzImAM dAkhala thayA. tyAM amane jotAM ja teo zAMta thaI gayA. teone mATe amArI prArthanAnuM dazya asAmAnya hatuM. keTalAka kutUhalathI pAse AvIne UbhA rahyA. keTalAke potAnI pAchaLa AvI rahelA bIjA pravAsIone zAMta rahevA nAke tarjanI aDADI bhalAmaNa karI. koIka to amArI bAjumAM AvIne zAMtithI besI gayA ane be hAtha joDI sAMbhaLavA lAgyA. eka bhAvasabhara dazya banI gayuM. bhaktAmara stotra ane Atmasiddhi jevI dIrgha kRtione kAraNe amArI prArthanA ThIka ThIka samaya cAlIchevaTe cAra logassano kAusagga karI ame UbhA thayA.

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pa3 mAunTa Abuna koIka pravAsIoe jijJAsAthI pUchayuM ke "ame zuM gAtA hatA ane zA mATe?' ame kahyuM "Prayer for World Peace. amArA uttarathI teo prabhAvita ane rAjI thayA. pagarakhAM paherI, pharI eka vAra cAre bAjunAM dazyonuM avalokana karI ame nIce UtaryA. TeksImAM besI hoTela para AvI gayA. ThIka ThIka moDuM thaI gayuM hatuM, thAkyA hatA ane bhUkha paNa lAgI hatI. laMca laIne ame lobImAM AvIne beThA. sAMje AsapAsa pharavA kyAM javuM teno vicAra karatA hatA evAmAM eka vaDIla mitradaMpatI tyAM AvyuM. mitre mane prazna karyo, 'ramaNabhAI, savAre kema tame badhA dekhAyA nahi ?' ame mAunTa Abuna gayA hatA.' majAka na karo, mAunTa Akhuna to baMdha che. rasto kharAba che.' 'nA, rasto kharAba nathI, bahu sAMkaDo che. TekasI jaI zake che. ame TekasImAM jaI AvyA.' kharekhara ? to amane kahevuM hatuM ne ? ame paNa sAthe Avata !' amane zI khabara ke tamAre AvavuM haze ? ame to nakkI thayuM ke tarata UpaDyA.' 'tamArI vAta sAMbhaLI amane bahu aphasosa thAya che. socI AvyA paNa Akhuna na joyuM. zuM lIdhuM TekasIvALAe ?' "so DaoNlara lIdhA.' e to bahu kahevAya !' 'jovuM hoya to eTalA ApavA paDe. eka to ahIM TekasI maLe nahi. hoTela dvArA phona karIne TeksI bolAvIe to pAMca-dasa kilomITara dUrathI Ave tenA AvavAjavAnA vadhArAnA moMmAgyA DaoNlara ApavA paDe. koInI khAlI thatI TekasI hoya to sastI paDe. ane tarata kAma thAya. ame evI eka TekasIvALAne pUchayuM ane eNe kahyuM ke Akhuna jaI zakAya che eTale ame tarata besI ja gayA. ane joI AvyA." kevuM che ?' bahu sarasa che, javA jevuM che. amArA mATe to eka yAdagAra anubhava thaI gayo." have jaI zakAya ?' 'hA, jarUra ! haju ghaNA kalAka che !' 'joIe, koI AvatuM hoya to amAre paNa javuM che.' mitradaMpatInI vidAya laI ame rUmamAM AvI ArAma karavA ADA paDyA. thoDI vAra pachI rUmanA daravAjA para TakorA paDyA. mitrapatipatnI AvyAM hatAM. temaNe ke 'ramaNabhAI, ame Akhuna mATe TekasIvALA sAthe nakkI karyuM, paNa amArI sAthe A taiyAra thayelA traNe jaNa have nA pADe che.'

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54 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana 'to to tamane TekasI moMghI paDe.' moMghIno savAla nathI. TekasInA badhA paisA ame cUkavIzuM." to to bIjA koI paNa pravAsI AvavA taiyAra thaze. traNa jaNane lAbha maLaze.' paNa have koI AvavA taiyAra nathI. ghaNAkharA bahAra gayA che. je che teone pUchI joyuM paNa koI taiyAra thatuM nathI.' to tame be ekalA jaI Avo.' 'paNa tame Avo kharA ?' huM to savAre jaI Avyo chuM. thAkayo paNa chuM.' 'tame sAthe Avo to amane gamaze. amane ekalAM ayuM lAge che. pAchA pharatAM rAta paDI jAya, ajANyo mulaka che. vaLI ahIMnA TekasIvALAne to tame jANo cho.' ema gabharAzo nahi. huM khAtarI ApuM chuM ke kaMI muzkelI naDaze nahi. dilagIra chuM ke huM pote AvI zakuM tema nathI. vaLI kalAka pachI ame badhA mitro bahAra pharavA javAnA chIe.' nirAza vadane teo cAlavA lAgyAM. mitra potAnI patnIne kahetA hatA te meM sAMbhaLyuM, "to pachI ApaNe TekasIvALAne nA kahI daIe. ApaNe ekalAM to nathI ja javuM.' teo liphaTamAM nIce UtaryA haze eTalI vAramAM meM mAro vicAra badalyo. mArA na javAthI teonuM aTakatuM hoya to mAre mitradharma tarIke javuM ja joIe. jematema taiyAra thaI huM tarata doDyo. teo hoTelanI bahAra jaIne je TekasI UbhI hatI tene nA kahI rahyAM hatAM. meM bUma pADI kahyuM, "UbhA raho, TekasI javA na dezo. huM AvuM chuM.' huM TekasI pAse pahoMcyo. teo bolyAM, "sAce ja Avo cho ?' hA, huM AvuM chuM mAunTa Abuna, bIjI vAra sAMje paNa e kevuM lAge che te jovuM joIe ne !' teonA caherA para AnaMda prasarI rahyo. TekasImAM besI ame UpaDyAM. sAMjanA cAreka vAgavA AvyA hatA. ame pahoMcyAM. khAsa koI pravAsIo atyAre nahotA. TAvaramAM upara ame caDI gayAM. agAzImAM pahoMcI cAre bAjunuM dazya nihALyuM. have sUrya pazcima dizAmAM kALA samudra bAju DhaLavA lAgyo hato. savAra karatAM sAMjanuM dazya nirALuM ane vadhu ramaNIya lAgatuM hatuM. havA paNa zItaLa hatI. mAro thAka UtarI gayo hato. mitradaMpatIe paNa Akhuna joIne dhanyatA anubhavI. samaya thoDo hato eTale ame nIce UtarI gayAM. TekasImAM besI, ghATa UtarI kALA samudrane kinAre kinAre thaI pAchA hoTela para AvI pahoMcyAM. huM manomana bolyo, 'eka ja divasamAM mAunTa AkhunanI be vAra sparzanA mAre karavAnI haze! nahi to AvuM bane nahi.'

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papa mAunTa Abuna mAunTa Abuna javAnI zakyatA nathI evuM jAhera thayA pachI amArAmAMnA je pravAsIo savAramAM bajAramAM pharavA ane kharIdI karavA nIkaLI paDyA hatA teo jyAre sAMje AvyA ane koIke temane kahyuM ke mAunTa Abuna jaI zakAya che ane DaoN. zAha to be vakhata jaI AvyA tyAre teoe e vAtane majAka gaNI hasI kADhI, paNa vAta sAcI che ema pachI jyAre jANyuM tyAre emanA aphasosano pAra rahyo nahi. bIje divase savAre socI choDatI vakhate kALA samudranA kinAre kinAre jyAre amArI basa cAlatI hatI tyAre narasiMha mahetAnI paMktio mArA kAnamAM guMjyA karatI hatI : jehanA bhAgyamAM je same je lakhyuM.."

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ulU 197nA DisembaramAM phijInA pravAse huM gayo tyAre enA pATanagara suvAmAM tyAMnA jhaverAtanA vepArI zrI kAnajIbhAI jegiyAne tyAM, mArA mitra zrI mahendrabhAI mahetAnI bhalAmaNathI rahyo hato. eka divasa kAnajIbhAIe mAre mATe ululu TApu pAse samudramAM paravALAM (Coral Reef) jovAnA kAryakramanuM Ayojana karyuM hatuM. kAmakAjano cAlu divasa hovAthI dukAna choDIne kAnajIbhAI sAthe AvI zake ema nahotA, paNa boTa para mUkavA ane levA teo AvavAnA hatA. nakkI thatAM bIje divase savAre ame samudrakinAre DaoNka para veLAsara pahoMcI gayA. ullU javA mATe traNa judI judI kaMpanInI sTIma-loMca UpaDatI hatI. dareka sTImaloMcanA karmacArIo potapotAnA daravAjA pAse UbhA UbhA pravAsIone potAnI kaMpanImAM joDAvA mATe jorajorathI anurodha karI rahyA hatA. kAnajIbhAInI bhalAmaNathI eka lAMcanI TikiTa meM lIdhI. be phijiyana yuvako AvI jAherAta karavA sAthe TikiTa ApavAnuM kAma paNa karatA hatA. ane be phijiyana yuvatIo sahelANIone loMcamAM laI jaI besADavAnuM kAma karatI hatI. loMcamAM dAkhala thaI huM mArI jagyAe beTho. samaya thayo eTale kaMpanIno yuniphorma paherelA e cAre karmacArIo loMcamAM AvyA. teoe loMcamAM dAkhala thavA mATenI pagathiyAMnI nAnI sIDI UMcakIne aMdara kheMcI lIdhI. laMgara upADyuM. tyArapachI laoNcanA kamAnane teo madada karavA lAgyA. haoNrna vAgyuM ane loMca UpaDI. ame lagabhaga pacIseka pravAsIo hatA. bIjA badhA ja pravAsIo amerikana ke oNsTreliyana hatA. bhAratIya pravAsI tarIke phakta huM ekalo ja hato. AkAza svaccha hatuM. samudranA nIlA raMganAM pANI zAMta hatAM. havA cittane prasannatAthI bharI de evI hatI. loMca AgaLa vadhatAM suvAnA kinArAnI hariyALI vanarAji dUra dUra khasatI hatI. vAtAvaraNa utsAhaka hatuM. dUranA eka phijiyana karmacArIe gAIDa tarIke mAIka upara saunuM svAgata karyuM ane phijIno paricaya Apavo zarU karyo. - pRthvInA dakSiNa goLArdhamAM, dakSiNa pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM traNasothI vadhu TApuomAM phijInuM rASTra patharAyeluM che. oNsTreliyAnI agni dizAmAM, 1960 mAIla dUra AvelA A rASTranuM eTalA mATe sattAvAra nAma phijI AIlenDrasa' (Fiji Islands) che, paraMtu 56

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57. ula lokomAM te phakta phijI' tarIke ja jANItuM che. A traNaso TApuomAM mukhya be moTA TApuo che. ekanuM nAma che vitI levuM ane bIjAnuM nAma che vanavA levuM. 'levu' eTale bahu. vitI' eTale DuMgaro ane 'vanavA' eTale sapATa medAno. 'vitI levu' eTale jyAM pahADo vadhAre che evo TApu. phijInAM mukhya zahero suvA, nAMdI, laTaukA, bA, sigAToka vagere vitI levumAM AvelA che. A TApumAM vacce parvato che ane cAre bAju pharate dariyAkinAre sapATa jagyA che. aMgrejoe potAnA zAsanakALa daramiyAna potAnAM saMsthAnomAM ghaNe ThekANe sthaLonAM nAma potAne uccAratAM phAve evI rIte badalAvyAM. e rIte vitIne teo phijI' tarIke oLakhavA lAgyA ane e ja nAma Aja divasa sudhI rUDha thayeluM che. jApAna uttara goLArdhamAM pUrva dizAmAM cheDe Avelo deza che. eTale ApaNe jApAnane UgatA sUryanA deza tarIke oLakhIe chIe. (jApAnano rASTradhvaja paNa enuM ja pratIka che). paraMtu samayanI sApekSa daSTie kahevuM hoya to kahI zakAya ke jApAnamAM sUryodaya thAya che tenI pahelAM dakSiNa goLArdhamAM phijImAM sUryodaya thAya che, kAraNa ke phijI 180deg rekhAMza para AveluM che. AMtararASTrIya samayarekhA (InternationalDate Line) barAbara phijInI pUrva bAjumAMthI pasAra thAya che. phijIno paricaya apAyo tyAra pachI thoDI vAramAM to saMgItanA sUra cAlu thayA. be phijiyana yuvaka ane be yuvatI potAnA asala phijI pozAkamAM sajja thaIne badhAMnI vacce AvyAM. phijiyana loko khAsa prasaMge potAno je phijiyana Dhabano pozAka pahere che temAM puruSono pozAka dhyAna kheMce evo hoya che. teo zarTa, koTa ane TAI pahere che. paraMtu penTane badale kamare trikoNa AkAranuM jhAlaravALuM vastra lapeTe che. ghUMTaNathI nIce teonA paga ughADA rahe che. temanA kamaranA vastrano trikoNa AkArano cheDo AgaLa be ghUMTaNanI vacce laTakato rahe che. skaoNTalaeNnDanA skoTiza loko khAsa prasaMge penTane badale 'kilTa' (Kit) pahere che tevI rIte phijiyana loko paNa kilTane maLatuM Ave evuM viziSTa prakAranuM ane mApanuM raMgaberaMgI DijhAInavALuM vastra pahere che. phijiyana yuvaka-yuvatIoe potAnA caherA para mahorAM paherelAM hatAM. hAthe pAuDara ane raMganA kalAtmaka lapeDA karyA hatA. emAM baMne yuvakoe khabhe giTAra ane Drama laTakAvyAM hatAM. baMne yuvatIo nRtya karatI hatI. cAre bulaMda svare gAtAM hatAM. sAthe giTAra ane Drama paNa jorazorathI vAgatAM hatAM. koI vyavasAyI kalAkAra hoya tevAM teo lAgyAM. Adhunika pAzcAtya DhabanAM jhamakabharyA gIto gavAtAM hatAM. teoe keTalAka phijiyana lokagIto paNa gAyAM. amerikA ane osTreliyAnA pravAsIo hovAthI tyAMnAM mazahUra thayelAM gIto gAyAM. pachI jaNAvyuM ke bhAratathI AvelA ApaNA mAnavaMtA mahemAna mATe mazahUra bhAratIya philmI gIto paNa ame gAIzuM. ema kahIne "AvArA

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana ...' ane evAM bIjAM gIto teoe gAyAM. Ama eka kalAka sudhI ame loMcamAM madhura nAda dvArA karmotsava ane bahAra jaladhijalanA taraMgo ane AsapAsanA TApuonI hariyALInAM dazyo dvArA nayanotsava ema sAthe sAthe mANyAM. saMgIta pUruM thayuM eTale amane cA-nAsto ApavAmAM Avyo. cAre gAIDa beraranI TopI ane eprana paherIne amArA saunI pAse AvIne kone cA ke kophI, TosTa baTara, biskiTa vagere joIe che te pramANe taiyArI karIne ApavA lAgyAM. koIkanA pUchavAthI khabara paDI ke mahorAM paherI gAna-nRtya karanAra kalAkAro te amArA A gAIDa yuvako ane yuvatIo ja hatAM. have te baTalaranA svarUpe hatAM. temanI sarasa kAmagIrInI ame prazaMsA karI. phijiyana loko moTA, pahoLA ane bharAvadAra caherAvALA che. zarIre teo UMcA ane kadAvara che. ghaNAkharA pahoLA pagale cAle che. temanA mAthAnA vALa sAva TUMkA ane vAMkaDiyA hoya che. AthI prathama daSTie koIne ema lAge ke teo Aphrikana haze ! paraMtu phijiyana loko Aphrikana jevA ane jeTalA zyAma raMganA nathI. phijiyana loko gherA ghauvarNA che. temanI cAmaDI bhAratIya loko jevI che. ghaNAnA vALa kALAne badale saheja ratAza paDatA bhUkharA che. evA vALa ane caherAnI AkRti uparathI teo bhAratIya loko karatAM judA tarI Ave che. ItihAsa ema kahe che ke baso varSa pahelAM yuropathI eziyAnI zodhasaphare nIkaLelA dariyAkheDuo potAnI sAthe je Aphrikana gulAmone laI AvelA, temAMnA keTalAkane majUrI karAvavA mATe A TApuomAM vasAvavAmAM AvelA, teonA A vaMzajo che. eTale temanI mukhAkRti Aphrikana lokone maLatI Ave che. paraMtu temanI cAmaDInA raMganI kALAza dhImedhIme ochI thaI gaI che. phijiyana loko svabhAve maLatAvaDA ane AnaMda che. khAvuM-pIvuM tathA gAvuM-nAcavuM e emanI priya pravRtti che. teo khaDatala ane mahenatu che, paNa svabhAve mojIlA che. keTalAya phijiyo bhAratIya lokone tyAM nokarI kare che. teo phijInI chAMTavALI hiMdI bhASA sArI rIte bolI zake che. phijInA sthAnika AnuvaMzika loko phijiyana che. paraMtu teo laghumatImAM che. bahumatImAM bhAratIya loko che. ahIM zeraDInAM khetaromAM majUrI karavA mATe bhAratathI abhaNa garIba bihArI lokone ane gujarAtI lokone aMgrejo laI AvyA. pAchaLathI dakSiNa bhAratanA keTalAka loko paNa AvIne vasyA. gujarAtI loko muMbaInA baMdare thaI sTImaramAM besIne ahIM AvyA hatA eTale bihArI loko gujarAtIone bambaIyA' tarIke Aja divasa sudhI oLakhatA AvyA che. phijImAM ghaNAkharA phijiyana loko nAnA nAnA TApuomAM rahe che. evA TApuomAM vasatA phijiyano garIba ane alpazikSita che. AthI ahIM teone mATe gAmaDiyAnA paryAya jevo zabda Islander (TApuvAsI) vaparAya che. bhAratIya loko phijiyana loko mATe "kAItIkI' zabda prayoje che.

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ula 59 lagabhaga agiyAra vAge amArI loMca pahoMcI nukumAruriko nAmanA TApunA kinAre. ahIM eka kalAkano amane samaya ApavAmAM Avyo. paNa TApu khUba nAno hato ane bajAra ke bagIcA jevuM kazuM ja nahotuM. eTale eka kalAka ahIM karIzuM zuM evo prazna ghaNAne thayo. amArA gAiDe kahyuM, "A TApunA samudramAM khAsa karavA mATe loko Ave che. aDadhA mAIla karatAM paNa ocho lAMbo ane ethI paNa ocho pahoLo evo A TApu naisargika daSTie gamI jAya evo che. TApu upara ApaNe game tyAM UbhA hoIe, tyAMthI cAre bAjuno samudra dekhAya. A TApunI khAsiyata e che ke eka bAju UMDo samudra che jyAM boTa UbhI rahe che ane bIjI bAju taddana chIcharo samudra che. hajAreka phUTa lAMbA samudrataTamAM retI kSeta, suMvALI, svaccha ane gamI jAya evI hatI. eTale ja A retIne Happy Sands kahe che. samudranuM pANI paNa eTaluM ja nirmaLa ane chAtIthI vadhAre UMDuM nahi. taratAM na AvaDatuM hoya to paNa nAhavA paDI zakAya. amArA gAIDa yuvaka-yuvatI svimiMga kaoNmyuma paherI taravA paDyAM. amArAmAMthI paNa keTalAka taravA paDyA. kaoNTyUma na lAvyA hoya te pAsenA resTorAMmAM bhADe maLatuM hatuM. keTalAkanI pANImAM paDavAnI IcchA nahotI, paNa DUbavAnI bIka vinAnA chIcharA pANInI sphaTika jevI nirmaLatAnuM AkarSaNa eTaluM badhuM hatuM ke eka pachI eka ema vadhatAM vadhatAM chevaTe badhAe pANImAM DUbakI mArI snAna karI tAjhagI ane praphullitatA anubhavI. mAthe komaLa taDako hato. ane pANI hUMphALuM hatuM. eTale paDyA pachI koIne nIkaLavAnuM mana thatuM nahotuM. AvA nAnakaDA TApumAM eka kalAka karIzuM zuM evo prazna karanArane have kalAka ocho lAgavA mAMDyo. samaya thayo eTale snAnathI paravArI ame sau sajaja thaI loMcamAM besI gayA. loMca UpaDI. gAIDe majAkamAM kahyuM, 'tamane samudramAM snAna eTalA mATe karAvyuM ke jethI bhUkha barAbara lAge. have ApaNe laMca mATe samudrakinArAnI eka paMcatAraka hoTelamAM jaIzuM. hoTelanuM nAma che TreDa viMgsa' (Trade winds). aDadhA kalAkamAM amArI loMca hoTelanA pAchalA daravAje AvIne aDIne UbhI rahI. nAMdI zaherathI suvAnA dhorI mArga upara samudrakinAre A hoTela evI rIte bAMdhavAmAM AvI che ke enA AgaLanA bhAgamAM enA udyAnanuM pravezadvAra mukhya rastA para paDe. tathA hoTelano pAchaLano bhAga evI rIte bAMdhavAmAM Avyo che ke te pANI upara thoDo bahAra nIkaLe. bAlkanI ke varaMDAmAM beThAM hoIe to nIce pANI dekhAya, jANe koI jahAjamAM na beThAM hoIe ! hoTelamAM ja DaoNkanI vyavasthA rAkhavAmAM AvI che. boTa ke sTImara sIdhI hoTelane aDIne UbhI rahI zake. ethI pravAsIone samudranI sahelagAha karavAnuM kudaratI rIte ja mana thAya. e mATe saMkhyAbaMdha nAnImoTI yAMtrika hoDIonI sagavaDa rAkhavAmAM AvI hatI. lAkaDAMnI vividha suzobhita cIjavastuo, tathA lAkaDAMnAM chata

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to pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana ane phloriMgathI bahu ja AkarSaka lAgatI evI A hoTelamAM samudranI bAjue beThAM hoIe to nIce svaccha pANImAM raMgaberaMgI mAchalIo taratI dekhAya. roja keTalAya loko mAchalIne khavaDAvatA hovAthI mAchalIo paNa eTalAmAM ja ghUmyA karatI dekhAya. ahIM samaya kevI rIte pasAra karavo enI koI ciMtA ja nahi. hoTelamAM laMca laI ane laoNMcamAM besI UpaDyA ulUlU TApu tarapha. ulUlUmAM amAre TApu para UtaravAnuM nahotuM, paraMtu TApu Ave te pahelAM samudranA nirmaLa jaLamAM paravALAM(Corals)nuM nirIkSaNa karavAnuM hatuM. ame TApu najIka AvyA. amArI boTa dhImI paDI. sUcanA maLatAM ame boTamAM taLiye rAkhavAmAM AvelA pAradarzaka kAca pAse pahoMcI gayA. paravALAM jovA mATe boTamAM cAra jagyAe taLiyAmAM moTA laMbacorasa pAradarzaka kAca jaDavAmAM AvyA hatA. dareka kAcanI AsapAsa besavAnI vyavasthA karavAmAM AvI hatI. ame badhA pravAsIo judA judA kAcanI AsapAsa goThavAyA. ulUlU TApu pAsenuM samudranuM pANI atyaMta svaccha hatuM. sUryanA prakAzamAM temAM vadhu UMDe sudhI joI zakAtuM hatuM. kAcanA taLiyenA pANImAM pharatI nAnImoTI vividha AkAranI ane prakAranI raMgaberaMgI mAchalIo taratI-pharatI dekhAvA lAgI. nIce judA judA AkAranAM paravALAM paNa dekhAyAM. meM agAu beoTA (zrIlaMkA), malindI (keniyA), pattayA (thAilaeNnDa), moriziyasa vagerenA samudramAM Glass-bottom BoatmAMthI AvAM dRzyo nihALyAM hatAM. paraMtu jeo pahelI vAra AvuM dRzya jue te to avazya Azcaryacakita thayA vinA rahe nahi. kAcamAMthI mAchalIo ane paravALAM joyA pachI amane badhAMne sTImaranA uparanA khullA DekamAM laI javAmAM AvyA tyAM ame khurazIomAM goThavAyA. daramiyAna samudranA pANImAMthI traNa vyakti hAthamAM paravALAM laIne sTImaramAM caDI. teoe moDhe- mAthe oNksijana mAska paherelo hato. ane zarIre paganAM taLiyAM sudhIno DUbakImArano DAivarsa (Diver's) sUTa paherelo hato. teo sthAnika vyavasAyI DAivarsa hoya ema lAgyuM. kAcamAMthI mAtra temanI be AMkho dekhAtI. paravALAM Deka para mUkIne pharI teoe pANImAM DUbakI lagAvI. pAchA thoDI vAre bIjAM paravALAM laI AvyA. gAiDa yuvatIe amane samajAvyuM ke paravALAM (pravAla) e paNa eka prakAranA jIvonuM kalevara che. enA judA judA AkAra pramANe enI judI judI jAti gaNavAmAM Ave che. amane sAbaranA ziMgaDA jevA (Stad horn Corals), dAMta-dADha jevA (Tooth Corals), mazarUma jevA (Mushroom Corals), takiyA jevA (Cushion Corals), kAkaDI jevA (Cucumber Corals), bhIMDA jevA (Green Finger Corals), pIMchAM jevA (Fern Corals), namaskAra karatA hoya evI AkRtivALA (Greeting Corals) ema judI judI jAtanAM paravALAMne ghara, dukAna vageremAM kevI kalAtmaka rIte goThavI zakAya

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ula te paNa vividha rIte goThavIne batAvyuM. zokhInane rasa paDe evo A viSaya hato. evI kalAtmaka goThavaNInA keTalAke phoTo pADI lIdhA. jyAM taDako paDato hoya evA uSNa ke samazItoSNa pradezamAM AvelA keTalAka samudranA chIcharA pANImAM paravALAnAM jIvaDAM jema maratAM jAya tema temanA zarIramAM rahelA kaeNlziyamano Dhagalo thato jAya che. enA khaDaka baMdhAya che. AvA (CoralReef)nA keTalAMka paravALAMnI aMdara jhINI jhINI mAchalIo hoya che. ane evI mAchalIo paNa paravALAMnI racanA kare che. te batAvatAM gAiDa yuvatIe pAse rAkhelA pANI bharelA vAsaNamAM traNeka moTA paravALAMnA TukaDA karyA to aMdarathI AMgaLInA veDhA karatAM nAnI mAchalIo nIkaLI ane pANImAM taravA lAgI. daramiyAna DAivarsa be moTI bAladI bharIne dariyAnuM pANI laI AvyA. emAM jAtajAtanI raMgaberaMgI nAnI nAnI mAchalIo hatI. keTalAka zokhIno gharamAM nAnuM kAcanA kabATa jevuM ekveriyama rAkhe che. emAM AvI keTalIka jAtanI mAchalIo rAkhavAmAM Ave che. gAiDe eka nAnI pAMca pUMchaDiyA jevI mAchalI batAvI. e Star Fish kahevAya che. te bahu majabUta hoya che. tenI ekAda pUMchaDI kapAI jAya to te maratI nathI. paNa te pUMchaDI pAchI vadhavA lAge che ane AkhI thaI jAya che. keTalAka paravALAM taDakAmAM sUkavavA mATe mUkavAmAM AvyAM. taDakAnI asarathI lIlA raMganAM paravALAM jAMbalI raMganAM thavA lAgyAM. gAiDe samajAvyuM ke A rIte paravALAM thoDA divasa taDakAmAM sUkavavAmAM Ave to teno raMga badalAya che, te nakkara thatAM jAya che ane vadhu suzobhita AkRti dhAraNa kare che. vaLI te bahu moghA bhAve vecAya che. keTalAMkamAMthI maMgaLanA naMga banAvAya che. paravALAMno vyavasAya karanAra anubhavI loko A bhInAM paravALAMne roja keTalA pramANamAM taDako ApIne, kevI rIte AkarSaka ane kalAtmaka banAvavAM enI khUbI jANatA hoya che. pachI eNe kahyuM, 'A badhAM lIlAM bhInAM parabhALAM jemane joIe te maphata laI jaI zake che. ghare jaIne tarata sUkavI devAM joIe.' ATaluM kahetAMmAM to paravALAM levA mATe paDApaDI thavA lAgI. amArI doTa joIne gAiDa paNa hasI paDI. badhA potAnA sthAne beThA te pachI gAiDe kahyuM, 'eTaluM dhyAnamAM rAkhajo ke A paravALAM bahu gaMdhAya che. thoDI vAra pachI tamArA hAtha sUMghI jojo. gharamAM paNa e gaMdhAze. sukAyA pachI nahi gaMdhAya.' gAiDanI vAta sAcI hatI. paravALAM hAthamAM letAM ja hAtha cIkaNA thaI gayA ane vaLI gaMdhAvA lAgyA. eka pachI eka ema ghaNAkharAe paravALAM pAchAM mUkI dIdhAM. keTalAke paDIkAmAM bAMdhI lIdhAM; paNa paDIkAmAM vadhu vakhata raheze to vadhu gaMdhAze ane pachI sarakho raMga ke AkAra dhAraNa nahi kare e mATe dhyAna rAkhavAnI sUcanA gAiDe ApI.

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62 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana vadhelAM paravALAM ane bAladImAM rAkhelI mAchalIo samudranA pANImAM pAchAM padharAvI devAmAM AvyAM, paravALAM jovAno kAryakrama pUro thayo. traNe DUbakImAru-DAIvara pANImAMthI bahAra AvI boTamAM caDI gayA. temaNe DAIvarano sUTa utAryo tyAre ja amane khabara paDI ke teo koI dhaMdhAdArI DUbakImAru nahotA, paNa TUranA ja be yuvaka ane eka yuvatI hatAM. ullUthI amArI boTa have suvA tarapha pAchI pharavA lAgI. sAMjano samaya thayo hato. pavana nIkaLyo hato. samudranA taraMgothI vAtAvaraNa AhalAdaka banI gayuM hatuM. ene vadhu AhalAdaka banAvyuM amArA gAIDa yuvakayuvatIoe potAnA nAcagAnathI. have teoe mahorAM ke phijiyana poSAka nahotA paheryA. temaNe kaMpanIno yuniphorma paherI lIdho hato. ucca svare layapUrvaka gIto gAIne teoe ramajhaTa bolAvI dIdhI. amArAmAMthI keTalAka emAM joDAyA paNa kharA. suvAno kinAro dekhAyo eTale nRtyagAna baMdha thayAM. yuvaka-yuvatIo have boTane lAMgaravA mATenI taiyArImAM paDI gayAM. jotajotAmAM to suvAnA dhakkA para boTa lAMgaravAmAM AvI. ame sau boTamAMthI UtaryA. phijiyana yuvaka-yuvatIono AbhAra mAnavA mATe emanI ja bhASAmAM ame kahyuM, 'binAkA vAkA levu' (Thank you very much) ane moghe' (Good-bye). huM bahAra nIkaLyo tyAM zrI kAnajIbhAI mane levA mATe kAra laIne AvI gayA hatA. kAramAM besI ame ghara tarapha ravAnA thayA. AkhA divasano eka sarasa majhAno yAda rahI jAya evo anubhava thayo. meM kAnajIbhAIne kahyuM, boTanA karmacArIo tAlImabaddha, vinayI ane utsAhI hatA. paraMtu bIjI bAju boTa kaMpanIe sArI karakasara karelI hoya evuM dekhAyuM. AraMbhamAM pracAraka ane TikiTa ApanAra tarIke, pachI gAIDa tarIke, pachI gIta-nRtyakAra tarIke, pachI baTalara tarIke, pachI svimara tarIke, pachI DAIvara tarIke, pAchA gAyaka tarIke ane chelle helpara tarIke enAM e ja cAra yuvaka-yuvatIoe kAma karyuM.' kAnajIbhAIe sAcuM ja kahyuM, 'ahIM phijImAM amAruM arthataMtra nabaLuM che. sTImaloMca calAvanAra judI judI kaMpanIo vacce ThIka ThIka spardhA rahe che. eTale kaMpanIo AvI karakasara kare to ja emane paravaDe.' dareka deza ke prajAne samaye samaye potAnI AgavI samasyAo rahe che ane te mATe potAnA AgavA upAyo zodhatAM rahevuM paDe che. te vinA astitva TakI na zake.

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nibata amerikAmAM bosTana zaheranA ekaTana nAmanA parAmAM greTa roDa para AvelA nAzIbA velI epArTamenTsa'nA kaoNplephasa(saMkulomAM rahetA amArA putra ci. amitAbha ane putravadhU sau. surabhine tyAM rahevA huM ane mArAM patnI gayAM hatAM. saMkulamAM aDoaDa AvelA cha epArTamenTanI eka hAra evI cha judI judI hAra hatI. amerikAnA ghaNA pradezomAM lagabhaga dareka pukhta vayanI vyakti pAse potAnI moTarakAra hoya che. e rIte A saMkulamAM chatrIsa ghara vacce nevuMthI so jeTalI moTarakAra pArka thaI zake e rIte epArTamenTanI dareka hAranI AsapAsa vizALa jagyA rAkhavAmAM AvI hatI. amerikAmAM ghara jeTaluM ja gADInuM mahattva che ane samayanI kiMmata bhAre eTale gADI pArka karavAmAM ke bahAra kADhavAmAM koIne agavaDa na paDavI joIe. sAMje badhI gADIo AvI gaI hoya ane najara pheravIe to bhAtabhAtanA raMgavALI, judAM judAM moDelanI sarasa gADIonI hAra e dezanI bhautika samRddhino khyAla Ape. tyAM gADInI gaNanA mojazokha karatAM jIvananI jarUriyAtamAM vizeSa thAya. amerikAmAM gharanI achata nahi eTale ghara badalavAmAM jarAya muzkelI nahi. keTalAka dezomAM pacAsa varSe paNa mANasanuM saranAmuM enuM e ja rahyuM hoya to keTalAka samRddha dezomAM be-pAMca varSe saranAmuM badalAyuM hoya. nokarI ke vyavasAyane kAraNe bIjA vistAramAM javAnuM thAya to mANasa tarata ghara paNa badale. laI javAnI gharavakharI ochI eTale kaDAkUTa paNa bahu nahi. ame cAreka mahinA e epArTamenTamAM rahyAM eTalA samayamAM chatrIsa kuTuMbomAMthI ATha kuTuMbo bIje rahevA cAlyAM gayAM hatAM. keTalAMka kuTuMbo to kayAre gayAM ane kyAre navAM kuTuMbo rahevA AvyAM tenI khabara paNa paDI nahotI. jyAM vAraMvAra ghara badalAtAM hoya tyAM pADozIo sAthe bahu AtmIyatA thatI nathI. pArkiMga vistAramAM jatAM-AvatAM koI maLI jAya to avazya moDhuM malakAvavAnuM. pADozIne tyAM besIne gAmagapATA mAravAnI ke pArakI paMcAta karavAnI prathA ja nahi. sau potapotAnI jiMdagImAM ja vyasta ane masta. - savAre ATha-nava vAgatAmAM to saMkulamAMthI ghaNAkharA loko kAmadhaMdhe cAlyA gayA hoya. ame nivRtta hatAM eTale lagabhaga Akho divasa gharamAM rahetAM. sAruM havAmAna hoya tyAre kazo ja saMkoca rAkhyA vagara ke ziSTAcAranI paravA karyA vagara ame epArTamenTanA

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64 - pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana oTalA para besIe. koI vakhata koI jatuMAvatuM hoya to jarUra sasmita hAtha UMco kare, paraMtu na amane e koInAM nAmanI khabara ke na amArAM nAma jANavAnI e koIne utsukatA. ame oLakhIe, mAtra aupacArika rIte ja, amArI DAbI bAjunA / epArTamenTamAM be nAnAM saMtAno sAthe navI rahevA AvelI leTina amerikana mahilA sujhAnAne. tenI mAtRbhASA speniza, paNa thoDuM iMgliza bole. te vibhaktA (chUTAcheDA lIdhelI) paNa dvitIya lagnotsukA hatI e enI gADI pAchaLa lagADelA posTara 'If you are rich, I am Single' parathI jaNAyuM hatuM. amAre thoDo paricaya thayo hato kaoNmpleksanA maeNnejara mi. karTa(Kurt)no. AkhA divasamAM te ekAda rAunDa mAre to mAre, ghaNuMkharuM TapAlInI Traka ke kacaro laI javAnI Traka Ave tyAre. saMkulamAM vIjaLI, gaeNsa, pANI, vaoNziMga mazIna vagere barAbara cAle che ke kema te jovAnuM emanuM kAma. laoNnamAM ghAsa vadhI gayuM hoya to te kapAvavA ke ziyALAmAM sno paDyo hoya to te sApha karAvavA kAmadArone te bolAve. kaoNmpleksamAM badhAMne oLakhe evI eka ja vyakti te karTa. amane maLe tyAre be miniTa vAta karavA UbhA rahe. covIsa kalAka saMkulamAM rahevAnI nokarI ane zArIrika zramavALuM koI kAma nahi eTale karTa ane emanAM patnInI mukhya pravRtti te Akho divasa gharamAM besIne TI.vI. joyA karavAnI hatI. baMnene sigareTa pIvAnI paNa evI ja phuTeva ane khAvAnA to teo vyasanI thaI gayAM hatAM. eTale pAMtrIsa-cAlIsa umaranAM hatAM chatAM khAssAM jADAM ane bahu bhAre vajanavALAM hatAM. karTa jyAre maLe tyAre kaMika cAvatA ke cagaLatA hoya athavA sigareTa phUMkatA hoya. karTa pahelAM moTarakAra calAvatA, paNa ekAda varSathI patipatnI beya eTalAM badhAM jADAM thaI gayAM ke potAnI moTarakAramAM pote samAya nahi. pariNAme moTarakAra calAvavAnuM choDI devuM paDyuM. zanivAre kharIdI karavA ke bIjA koI kAme bahAra javAnuM hoya tyAre moTI sAijhanI TaeNksI bolAve. roja bapore eka vAge TapAlInI Traka Ave. saMkulanA daravAjA pAse rAkhavAmAM AvelAM khAnAomAM te TapAla nAkhI jAya. moTA bhAganA sabhyo sAMje pAchA pharatI vakhate gADImAM beThAM beThAM ja potAnuM khAnuM ughADI TapAla laI le. huM gharamAM raheto eTale TapAlInI Traka Ave te pachI tyAM jaI TapAla laI Avato. amArA gharathI eka ghara choDIne pachInA gharamAM rahetAM eka mAjI lAkaDInA Teke dhIme dhIme cAlatAM cAlatAM TapAla levA Ave. temane cAlavAnI takalIpha hatI, gADI calAvavAnI nahi. byAsI varSanI uMmare paNa teo gADI calAvatAM badhe jAya. emanI sAthe emano vidhura dIkaro rahe ane nokarI kare. gharamAM be jaNa. teo potAnuM zAMta jIvana jIvye jAya. eka zanivAre savAre huM pAse AvelA 'Tripala e' nAmanA sToramAM amitAbha sAthe kharIdI mATe jato hato. amArI gADI cAlI tyAM sAmethI eka embyulansa

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nibata AvatI joIne meM kahyuM, 'amitAbha, ApaNA kaoNpleksamAM koI siriyasa lAge che. ebyulansa AvI che." 'pappA, ahIM ebyulansa Ave enI navAI nathI. amerikAmAM DaoNkaTaro ghare jovA Ave evI ekaMdare prathA nathI. dardIe DaoNkaTara pAse javuM paDe. je lokone gADI calAvavAnuM phAve ema na hoya te ebyulansa bolAve. dAMta duHkhato hoya ane gADI calAvavAnI ruci na thatI hoya to paNa mANasa, paravaDatuM hoya to, ebyulansa bolAve.' "ApaNe thoDI rAha joIne javuM che ke kone tyAM ebyulansavALA jAya che ? kadAca koIne kaMI kAma hoya to pUchI jevuM che ?' ' ahIM evI prathA nathI. ApaNe pUchavA jaIe to koIkane game ke na game. ahIMne vyavahAra bhArata jevo nathI.' sToramAMthI dUdha, dahIM, zAkabhAjI vagere laI ghare AvI ame amArA rojiMdA jIvanamAM gUMthAI gayA. ekAda aThavADiyA pachI huM TapAlanI peTImAMthI TapAla laIne pAcho pharato hato tyAM karTa maLI gayA, mArAthI bhAratIya jijJAsAvRttithI pUchAI gayuM, 'mi. karTa, thoDA divasa pahelAM savAre ApaNA kaoNpleksamAM eka ebyulansa AvI hatI. to koI mAMduM hatuM ?' "nA, koI mAMduM nahotuM, e to tamArI paDozamAM je mAjI rahe che emano dIkaro gujarI gayo hato. eTale zabane laI javA mATe emaNe ebyulansa bolAvI hatI." A samAcAra sAMbhaLI huM sAzcarya asvastha thaI gayo, paraMtu ATaluM kahevA chatAM karTanA caherA upara koI zokanI lAgaNI dekhAtI nahotI. jANe koI sAmAnya ghaTanA banI hoya evA hAvabhAva sAthe emaNe vAta karI. samRddha dezonI Adhunika jIvanapaddhatino emAM aNasAra AvI gayo. amArA epArTamenTanI hAramAM ja trIjA ghare banelI mRtyunI ghaTanA jANe kazI sAmudAyika noMdha levAyA vagara banI gaI. mAjIno sATha varSano putra gujarI gayo, paNa nahi koI rokakaLa, zaba laI jatI vakhate nahi DAghuonI avarajavara, nahi pAse besavA javAnI prathA ke nahi dilasojI darzAvavAnI praNAlikA. sAdaDI, besaNuM, uThamaNuM to kayAMthI hoya ? bairAMo chAtI phUTe, moM vALe, khUNo pALe, kALAM kapaDAM pahere evA evA rivAjo to bhAratamAMthI paNa ghasAI gayA che. kaoNplephasanA chatrIsa bhADUtomAMthI cotrIsane to khabara paNa nahotI ke mAjInA dIkarAnuM avasAna thayuM che. samudAyamAM rahevA chatAM jagatamAM kyAMka AvuM nisbatarahita, binaaMgata jIvana jivAya che eno amane pratyakSa anubhava thayo. harSa karatAM paNa mRtyu jevA gherA zokanA prasaMge lokonI lAgaNInI bAhya abhivyakti ane AMtara anubhUti vacce vividha prakAranuM sAmyavaiSamya jovA maLaze. eka cheDe hRdayamAM narI niSpharatA ane bAhya

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana abhivyaktimAM zarIra phUTavA jevI sthiti hoya tyAMthI mAMDIne bIje cheDe bAhya niSkriyatA ane aMtaramAM apAra vedanA jevI sthiti sudhInI vividha dazA pravartatI hoya che. thoDA divasa pachI TapAlanA khAnA pAse mAjI mane maLI gayAM. evAM ja svastha hatAM. meM kahyuM, "mAjI ! tamArA dIkarAnA avasAnanA samAcAra jANIne mane duHkha thayuM.' mAjI bolyAM, gayo bicAro !' "zuM thayuM hatuM ?' "UMghamAM ja gayo. hArTa besI gayuM haze !' amArI vAta AgaLa cAlI zakI nahi. vAta laMbAvavAnI emanI IcchA nahotI, kAraNa ke chUTA paDavA mATe emaNe DagalAM cAlu karI dIdhAM. A ghaTanA pachI keTalAka divasa pasAra thaI gayA. daramiyAna amArA kuTuMbamAM eka zubha avasara sAMpaDyo ke je mATe huM tathA mArAM patnI amerikA jaIne rahyAM hatAM. amArI putravadhU sau. surabhie 17mI mArca 1991nA roja, caitra suda ekama, gUDI paDavAnA parvadine putrane janma Apyo. amerikAmAM hospiTalamAMthI nIkaLatAM pahelAM saMtAnanuM nAma lakhAvI devuM paDe che. putranuM nAma "aciMta' noMdhAvI dIdhuM. traNa divasa pachI sau. surabhi arcitane laIne ghare AvavAnI hatI. pautrane vadhAvavA mATe amane baMnene ghaNo harakha hato. ame bAraNe toraNa laTakAvyAM. kaMkunA cAMllA ane sAthiyA karyA. svAgatanAM posTaro lagADyAM. bArasAkha upara raMgaberaMgI bhAta dorI. pagathiyAM zaNagAryA. nAnI ghaMTaDIo laTakAvI. dUrathI jotAM ja khabara paDe ke A ghare koI maMgala prasaMga che. nizcita karelA divasa ane coghaDiyA pramANe amitAbha ane surabhi arcitane laIne gADImAM ghare AvI pahoMcyAM. ame ghara bahAra jaIne harSanAda sAthe teone vadhAvIne gharamAM laI AvyAM. putra-vadhAmaNInAM gItonI keseTa vagADI. Ama chatAM AjubAjunAM koI gharomAMthI koIe bahAra DokiyuM karyuM nahotuM. A maMgala avasara amArA ghara pUrato ja sImita rahyo. be divasa pachI kaTa mane maLI gayA. meM sAmethI pUchyuM, 'mi. kaTa, zI navAjUnI che?' 'kazI navAjUnI nathI, paNa tamArA ghare A badhuM suzobhana karyuM che te koI pArTI che?' "hA, amAre tyAM pautrano janma thayo.' "oha ! tame dAdA-dAdI thayAM! bahu AnaMda thayo. tamane khUba khUba dhanyavAda.' abhinaMdana ApyA eTale jANe vyavahAra patI gayo. tyAra pachI aThavADiyuM vItI gayuM haze, kaI maLyA tyAre mArAthI sahaja jijJAsAthI puchAI gayuM, "amArA gharamAM eka navajAta zizunI padharAmaNI thaI che e vize ApaNA kaoNpleksamAMthI keTalA jANatA haze ?' tamArA ane mArA sivAya koI ja nahi."

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nisbata 'amArA gharanuM bahAranuM ATaluM moTuM suzobhana joIne koIne jijJAsA paNa thaI nathI ?' zA mATe thAya ? bIjAnI paMcAta karavAnI kone phurasada che ? sau potapotAnA * jIvanamAM pUrAM vyasta ane sukhI che.' karTanA javAbathI have bahu Azcarya thAya evuM nahotuM. chatrIsa kuTuMbo vacce vIseka divasamAM be mahattvanI ghaTanAo banI. eka mRtyunI ane bIjI janmanI. saMkulanI kula vastI jeTalI hatI teTalI ja have rahI. jIvananA be aMtima cheDAnI moTI ghaTanAo banI-mRtyunA saMtApanI ane janmotsavanI ane chatAM ahIM sAmudAyika jIvana upara eno kazo ja pratibhAva paDyo nahi. Arthika svAdhInatA ane bhautika samRddhi mANasa ane mANasa vacce eka evI sUkSma dIvAla bhI karI de che ke jANe koIne koInI * nisbata na hoya ! nAzonA velI epArTamenTsamAM ame jevuM joyuM ane anubhavyuM tevuM amerikAmAM badhe ja bane che evuM nathI. duniyAmAM dareka pradezanI vividha prakAranI jIvanapaddhati hoya che ane temAM kAlAntare parivartano paNa thayA kare che. duniyAmAM vastInuM pramANa, Arthika sthiti vagere badhe ja ekasarakhAM na rahe, gIca vastI, ati saMsarga, nabaLI Arthika sthiti hoya ke ochI vasatI, alpa saMsarga ane surakSita sAdhanasaMpanna jIvana hoya - darekanI lAkSaNiktAo ane samasyAo bhinna bhinna hoya che. emAM keTalAka lAbha che ane keTalAka geralAbha. vaLI ekanA lAbha te bIjAne geralAbha jevA paNa lAge. vastuta: prApta thayelI paristhitithI manuSya krame krame TevAI jAya che. manuSyajIvanamAM raheluM sthitisthApakatAnuM lakSaNa ajabagajabanuM che !

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moskomAM bhAratIya jamaNa maskone sthAnika raziyana loko moskavA kahe che. moskavA nAmanI nadInA kinAre e zahera vaseluM hovAthI enuM nAma moskavA paDyuM hatuM. 1988mAM pharI vAra soviyeTa yuniyanano ame pravAsa karyo tyAre mosko zahera jovAnuM amAre mATe chelle rAkhavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. tAnkaMda, samarakaMda, tibilisI, socI vagere sthaLono pravAsa karatAM karatAM ame leninagrADa pahoMcyAM hatAM. amAro kAryakrama tyAMthI vimAnamAM maoNsko javAno hato. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM keTalAka divasathI ame pharatAM hatAM eTale amArI maMDaLInA keTalAka sabhyo pAzcAtya DhabanuM ane temAMya raziyana paddhatinuM khANuM khAIne dharAI gayAM hatAM. ame bhAratathI sAthe lAvelA te nAsto paNa khUTavA Avyo hato. amArI gAIDa yuvatIe kahyuM, "ApaNe sau have maoNsko javAnAM chIe. tame jANo cho tema maoNskomAM keTalIya bhAratIya resTorAM che. ApaNe tyAM eka resTorAMmAM bhAratIya DhabanuM ApaNuM bhojana laIzuM. alabatta, A bhojana dareke potapotAnA kharce levAnuM raheze, kAraNa ke tamArA pravAsa-kharcamAM ame eno samAveza karyo nathI.' leninagrADathI maoNsko sAMje pahoMcIne ame amArA mukAma upara gayAM. amane moskomAM koI hoTelamAM utAro ApavAmAM Avyo na hato, paraMtu anubhavanI vividhatA khAtara eka sTImaramAM utAro ApavAmAM Avyo hato. sAmyavAdI sarakAre utAruo mATenI eka sarasa moTI jUnI jarmana sTImara kharIdI hatI. temAM raMgarogAna karIne, Adhunika sagavaDothI tene sajja karavAmAM AvI hatI. maoNskomAM moskavA nadIne kinAre tene lAMgaravAmAM AvelI hatI. traNa mALanI sTImara hoTela jevI ja hatI. pharaka mAtra eTalo ja hato ke emAM rUma kebina jevA nAnA hatA. pratyeka rUmamAM pAradarzaka kAca jaDelI moTI goLa bArI hatI. emAMthI nadInuM manohara dazya joI zakAtuM hatuM. sTImaramAM ja resTorAM hatI ke jyAM savAranA cA-nAstAthI zarU karIne sAMjanA bhojana sudhI maryAdita vAnagIonI sagavaDa rAkhavAmAM AvI hatI. resTorAMno sTApha savAre ATha vAgye AvI rAtre nava vAgye cAlyo jato. pachI cA-kaoNphI paNa na maLe. sTImara ghaNI moTI hatI ane lAMgarelI hatI, chatAM ekasAthe vadhu pravAsIonI avarajavara thAya athavA pAsethI bIjI koI sTImara pasAra thAya tyAre te thoDIka hAlakaDolaka thatI. enA evA anubhavanI judI ja majhA hatI.

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maoNskomAM bhAratIya jamaNa se ame jyAre soviyeTa yuniyanano A pravAsa karyo tyAre mikhAIla goboMceva sattA upara AvyA hatA. peresTroIkA ane glAsanostano yuga zarU thayo hato. sTelinanA samayamAM soviyeTa yuniyanamAM moTA moTA oNphisaro paNa phaphaDatA. brejhanevanA vakhatamAM sakhatAi thoDI ochI thaI hatI. lAMcaruzavata ane gerakAyade pravRttio thoDA pramANamAM cAlu thaI gaI hatI. goboMcevanI to nIti ja udAra hatI. eTale khoTuM karavAno Dara ghaTato jato hato. tyAMnI nANAkIya sthiti tyAre ghaNI judI hatI. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM rUbala ane kopekanuM calaNa che. eka rUbalanA so kopeka thAya. ame gayA tyAre baeNnkomAM hUMDiyAmaNanA adhikRta dara pramANe eka DaoNlaranA pAMsaTha kopeka maLatA. duniyAnA ghaNA dezomAM bane che tema baeNnkanA dara karatAM khAnagImAM gerakAyade vadhAre nANAM ApanAra mANaso nIkaLatA ja hoya che. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM aMgata rIte koI vyakti sAthe videzI hUMDiyAmaNano vyavahAra karI zakAto nahoto. eTale ke DaoNlara ApIne rUbala laI zakAya nahi. potAnI pAse DaoNlara rAkhavA te soviyeTa nAgarika mATe kAyadesara guno hato. gunegArane jela sahita bhAre sajA karavAmAM AvatI. Ama chatAM keTalAka ekaladokala mANaso rAtanA vakhate hoTela upara AvIne khAnagImAM rUbala ApIne DaoNlara laI jatA. baeNnkamAM jyAre eka DaoNlaranA pAMsaTha kompeka maLatA hatA, tyAre AvA ajANyA ejanTo hoTelamAM AvIne eka DaoNlaranA ATha, dasa ke bAra rUbala ApI jatA hatA. AvI pravRtti tyAM rahevA gayelA keTalAka bhAratIya nAgariko paNa karatA. baeNnka karatAM AvI rIte ajANyA pAsethI ghaNA badhA vadhAre rUbala maLatA hoya to pravAsIonuM mana lalacAyA vagara rahe nahi. amArAmAMnA keTalAke AvI gupta rIte potAnI jarUriyAta anusAra ThIka ThIka pramANamAM DaoNlara vaTAvIne rUbala lIdhA hatA. amane keTalAkane videzamAM AvuM jokhama na kheDavAnuM ane sarakArI kAyadAne mAna ApavAnuM yogya lAgyuM hatuM. sastA bhAvanA rUbala lIdhA pachI jyAM jyAM DaoNlarane badale rUbala ApavAnuM Ave tyAM teone te ghaNuM badhuM sastuM lAge e dekhItuM che. sarakArI kAyadA anusAra ghaNekhare ThekANe amAre videzI pravAsI tarIke DaoNlaramAM ja bilanI cUkavaNI karavAnuM rahetuM. savAre basamAM ame maoNsko zahera jovA nIkaLyAM. bhAratIya resTorAmAM koNa bhojana leze ane koNa nahi tenI vigata amArI gAiDe noMdhI lIdhI. rastAmAM eka sthaLethI phona karIne te pramANe eka resTorAMmAM saMkhyA lakhAvI rijharvezana karAvI dIdhuM. sAMjanA bhojanamAM kaI kaI vAnagIo taiyAra maLaze ane kaI vAnagIo mATe oNrDara ApavAno raheze tenI vigate vAtacIta karI lIdhI. amArI gAiDe kahyuM ke 'resTorAMvALAe jaNAvyuM che ke ApaNe badhAM videzI pravAsIo chIe eTale dareke potAnuM bila DaoNlaramAM ApavAnuM raheze.' ghaNA divasa pachI bhAratIya jamaNa maLatuM hoya to DaoNlara ApavA badhAM ja taiyAra hatAM.

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana reDaspharanI mulAkAta laI ame vacce cA-pANI mATe eka resTorAMmAM gayAM. tyAM . amArAmAMnA eka bhAIe maoNskomAM rahetA potAnA eka mitrane phona karyo. e phonamAM vAta nIkaLatAM emanA mitra pAsethI emane jANavA maLyuM ke bhAratIya resTorAMmAM DaoNlara paNa levAmAM Ave che ane rUbala paNa levAmAM Ave che. A vAta jANyA pachI lagabhaga badhAM ja pravAsIone evuM thayuM ke DaoNlaramAM bila cUkavavA karatAM rUbalamAM dasa gaNuM sastu paDe, kAraNa ke keTalAke khAnagImAM eka DaoNlaranA dasa ke bAra rUbala jeTalI rakama meLavI hatI. AthI amArAmAMnA keTalAke Agraha rAkhyo ke gAIDe resTorAMmAM pharIthI phona karIne pAkuM karI levuM joIe ke DaoNlarane badale rUbalamAM bila cUkave to cAle ke kema ? gAIDe bhAratIya resTorAMmAM pharIthI phona karIne pUchI lIdhuM ane badhAMne khuzakhabara ApyA ke, 'resTorAMmAM DaoNlarane badale rUbalamAM paNa bila cUkavI zakAze. bhAratIya nAgariko mATe resTorAMmAM A jAtanI chUTa che." Ama eka to ame badhAM bhAratIya vAnagIo ArogavAnI utsukatApUrvaka ane utsAhathI rAha jotAM hatAM, temAM vaLI bila rUbalamAM cUkavI zakAze e jANIne badhAM harSathI ekabIjAne tALI ApavA lAgyAM. amAro kAryakrama bapore beeka aitihAsika sthaLonI mulAkAta laI sAMje raziyana sarkasa jevAno hato. e pramANe sarkasa joI rAtre sADAATha vAgye ame sIdhA resTorAM para pahocI gayAM. moskomAM (samagra soviyeTa yuniyanamAM) pArkiMganI samasyA na hovAthI amArI basa sIdhI resTorAMnA daravAjA sAme UbhI rAkhavAmAM AvI. amane mUkIne, basa tyAM rAkhIne, DrAIvara pote khAvA mATe gayo. badhAMne samaya pUchIne gAIDe DrAIvarane rAtre sADA dasa vAgye pAchA bAlAvyo. resTorAMmAM dAkhala thaI ame badhA potapotAnA jUtha pramANe Tebala para goThavAyAM. veITaroe 'manuM ApyAM. zikhaMDa-pUrI, gulAbajAMbu, baraphI, nAna, paroThAM, tAMdUrI roTI, maTara-panIra, malAI kophatAM, samosA vagere vAnagIonAM nAma vAMcatAM badhAMnAM moDhAmAM pANI chUTavA lAgyuM. vAnagIonA dara ghaNA moMghA hatA, paNa rUbalamAM bila cUkavavAnuM hatuM eTale ciMtA nahotI. ame badhAM utsAhapUrvaka veITarone potapotAnI vAnagIo lakhAvavA lAgyAM. ame badhAM vAtacIta karatAM hatAM te daramiyAna hoTelano menejara amArI pAse AvI pahoMcyo. eNe kahyuM, "mApha karajo, tame badhAM InDiyana TUrisTa cho. eTale tamAre tamAruM bila DaoNlaramAM ApavAnuM raheze.' AvuM sAMbhaLatAM ja amArAmAMnA eke kahyuM ke "amAre vAta thaI gaI che ane te pramANe amAre bila rUbalamAM cUkavavAnuM che.' maeNnejare kahyuM ke "mAre evI koI vAta thaI nathI. tamAre bila DaoNlaramAM ja ApavAnuM raheze.' AthI ame gUMcavAyAM. bIjA Tebala para beThelI amArI gAIDane bolAvI. teNe maeNnejara pAse khulAso karyo ke potAne phona upara vAta thaI gaI che ke bhAratIya loko rUbalamAM potAnuM bila cUkavI zakaze. gAIDe phona

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maoNskomAM bhAratIya jamaNa 61 upara jenI sAthe vAta karI hatI e hoTelanA sTAphanA sabhyane bolAvavAmAM AvyA. eNe khulAso karyo ke 'hA, meM ema kahyuM ke bhAratIya loko rUbalamAM bila cUkavI zake che.' tyAM maeNnejare kahyuM, 'e vAta sAcI che, paraMtu te to sthAnika rahetA bhAratIyo mATe che, nahi ke pravAsIo mATe. pravAsIo mATe soviyeTa yuniyanano kAyado judo che.' hoTelanA maeNnejaranA avAjamAM vinaya nahoto, kaDakAI hatI. eNe pharIthI kahyuM, 'tame badhAM TUrisTa cho. mATe tamAre DaoNlaramAM ja bila cUkavavuM paDaze.' AthI paristhiti gUMcavADAbharI thaI. paraMtu maeNnejare je uddhatAIthI vartana karyuM te koIne gamyuM nahi. ethI amArAmAMnA keTalAMkanAM manamAM roSa bharAyo. daramiyAna amArAmAMnA je bhAIne potAnA mitra sAthe vAta thaI hatI te temane maLavA mATe resTorAM para AvI pahoMcyA. amAro gaNagaNATa sAMbhaLI teo amArI muzkelI samajI gayA. amArI vAta sAMbhaLI temaNe maeNnejarane vinaMtI karatAM kahyuM, 'huM maoNskomAM rahuM chuM ane huM jANuM chuM ke bhAratIya pravAsIo paNa rUbalamAM bila ApI zake che.' teno javAba ApatAM maeNnejare kahyuM, 'pravAsI koInA mahemAna tarIke AvyA hoya to temanA vatI sthAnika yajamAna rbalamAM bila ApI zake che. paraMtu A badhA pravAsIo koInA mahemAna nathI.' amArAmAMthI koIke maeNnejarane kahyuM, 'to amArA A mitranA mahemAna tarIke amane gaNo ane bila rUbalamAM lo.' maeNnejare kahyuM, 'evI khoTI vAta na karo. tamAre jamavuM hoya to DaoNlaramAM ja bila cUkavavuM paDaze.' maeNnejaranA avAjamAM gusso hato, apamAnajanaka bhAva hato. Ama A vAtano vivAda vadhI gayo. ghaNAMkharAM Tebala parathI UbhAM thaI gayAM. thoDI bolAcAlI thaI. hoTelanA maeNnejarane koIke samajAvyA ane chevaTe ema ukela kADhavAmAM Avyo ke rUbalamAM teo utAre khAvA mATe paDIkAM bAMdhI Apaze, paraMtu hoTelamAM jamADaze nahi. chevaTe khAvAnuM baMdhAvI levAnuM nakkI thayuM. veiTarone oNrDara levAnI manAI thaI eTale tyAM badhA rasoDAmAM jaIne potapotAno oNrDara lakhAvavA lAgyA. eTalAmAM maeNnejara AvI pahoMcyo. pharI tenI uddhatAI dekhAvA lAgI. teNe kahyuM, 'huM tamane badhAne rasoDAmAM dAkhala thavA nahi dauM ane tamArA darekanA judA judA oNDara nahi lauM. tame badhA bahAra jaIne bhegAM maLIne eka ja vyaktine potAne je joItuM hoya te lakhAvo ane eka ja vyaktine te badhuM khAvAnuM bAMdhI ApavAmAM Avaze. ame e rIte bahAra AvIne amArAmAMnA eka bhAIne potapotAnI vAnagI lakhAvI, paraMtu e vAnagInI yAdI laIne amArA pratinidhi jyAre maeNnejara pAse gayA tyAre teNe kahyuM, 'A badhuM amAre banAvavuM paDaze ane e banAvatAM amane eka kalAka upara nIkaLI jaze. tyAM sudhI tame badhAM bahAra beso.'

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7ra pAsaporTanI pAMkhe -- uttarAlekhana ame joyuM ke maeNnejaranI dAnata khAvAnuM ApavAnI nathI. vastuta: ATalA badhA pravAsIo pAsethI ene DaoNlara levA hatA. zA mATe te sau koI samajI gayA. Ama menejara sAtheno amAro jhaghaDo vadhu ugra banI gayo. amArAmAMthI koIka bolyuM ke bhAratIya embesImAM AnA vize ApaNe phariyAda karavI joIe. to koIka vaLI bolyuM ke, bhArata jaI ApaNe chApAmAM ApaNA A anubhavanI vAta lakhavI joIza.' A sAMbhaLIne maeNnejara vaLI vadhu bagaDyo. eNe kahyuM ke tame badhA samaje cho zuM? tame embesImAM phariyAda karo te pahelAM huM tamArI badhAnI atyAre ja polIsane phona karIne dharapakaDa karAvI zakuM ema chuM. tamArA darekanA khissAmAM gerakAyadesaranA rUbala paDyA che. pachI tamane javAba Apavo bhAre thaI paDaze.' amArAmAMthI ugna thaIne koIke maeNnejarane sAmo javAba Apyo, "ame jelamAM javA taiyAra chIe, paNa sAthe sAthe tamane paNa jelamAM laI jaIzuM. ame paNa sarakAsa oNksira tarIke kAma karyuM che, tamane kema sapaDAvavA te ame jANIe chIe.' Ama vAta ghaNI ugra banI gaI. amArAmAMnA keTalAke kahyuM ke, "ame DaoNlara ApavA taiyAra chIe paNa amane khAvAnuM bAMdhI Apo.' to vaLI keTalAke ema kahyuM, je bhojanane mATe ATalI badhI takarAra thAya che evuM bhojana levAno artha zo? enA karatAM bhUkhyA rahevuM sAruM. krodhe bharAIne mANasa jamADe e to viSamAM pariName.' A kolAhalabharyA jhaghaDAmAM amArAmAMnA be-traNa jaNa vacce paDyA ane kahyuM ke, 'have to DaoNlaramAM bhojana Ape topaNa levuM nathI.' ghaNAkharA pravAsIoe e vAtane kabUla rAkhI ane ame resTorAMnI bahAra nIkaLyAM. je traNacAra jaNe DaoNlaramAM zarUAtathI potAno oNrDara ApI dIdho hato temanA mATe vimAsaNa UbhI thaI. ame teone kahyuM ke, 'tame nirAMte zAMtithI jamo. tamAre amArI sAthe joDAvAnI jarUra nathI.' resTorAMmAMthI bahAra nIkaLI ame basamAM besavA gayAM. paNa pachI yAda AvyuM ke basano DrAIvara to TheTha sADA dasa vAge AvavAno che. ApaNe kalAka basamAM besI rahevuM che ke utAre sTImaramAM pahoMcI javuM che ? jo vaheluM pahoMcavuM hoya to ApaNe badhAMe TakasI karavI paDaze. amArI sTImara ThIka ThIka dUra hatI. paNa TekasI karIne pahoMcI javAmAM mananI zAMti hatI. basamAM besI resTorAMnI sAme tAkI rahevAmAM uga hato. badhAe nakkI karyuM ke bhale kharca thAya paNa TekasImAM besI sTImara para pahoMcI javuM. judI judI TeksI karIne badhAM sTImara uparanA utAre AvyA. rAtanA savA dasa vAgI gayA hatA. sTImaranI resToranA karmacArIo cAlyA gayA hatA. sTImaranI resTorAM baMdha thaI gaI hatI. ame badhA potapotAnI rUmamAM gayAM. ame nakkI karyuM ke je kaMI nAsto potAnI pAse hoya te laIne eka moTA rUmamAM badhAe ekaThA thavuM. ame khAkharA, biskiTa,

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maoNskomAM bhAratIya jamaNa 193 keLAMnI vephara vagere cIjo laIne ekatra thayAM. bahenoe naLamAMthI garama pANI kADhIne emAM cAnI paDIkI boLIne ane AgaLapAchaLanI vadhelI khAMDa ane phrimaranI paDIkI ThAlavIne kAmacalAu cA banAvI. ame badhAMe Ama uNodarI vratanI jema cA-nAsto karyo. bhAratIya resTorAMmAMthI ame mAtra hatArA thaIne ja nahi, mAnasika rIte ghavAIne AvyAM hatAM. evA udvegabharyAM azAMta vAtAvaraNamAMthI ahIM AvyA pachI amArI vacce saMpanuM je vAtAvaraNa jAmyuM hatuM ene lIdhe badhAM bhAI-baheno khAvApIvAmAM ekabIjAne sahakAra ApatAM hatAM. eno AnaMda judA prakArano hato. bhAratIya resTorAMmAM bhojanathI je tRpti thAta tenA karatAM A AcarakUcara alpAhArathI ame vadhAre tRti anubhavI. prasannatA saunA caherA upara camakavA lAgI hatI. maoNskomAM bhAratIya jamaNa mATeno amAro anubhava yAdagAra banI gayo.

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12 denAlI naeNzanala pArka duniyAnA judA judA khaMDomAM pazupakSIone emanA kudaratI vAtAvaraNamAM rAkhavA mATe seMkaDo ke hajAro corasa mAIlanA vistAramAM pArkanI yojanA karavAmAM Ave che. eziyA ke yuropa jevA bharacaka vastIvALA khaMDo karatAM AphrikA, amerikA ke oNsTreliyA jevA ochI vastIvALA khaMDomAM atizaya vizALa jagyAmAM pArkanI racanA karavAnuM saraLa che. have to paryAvaraNavAdIo paNa AvI yojanAnuM samarthana ane protsAhana karatA rahyA che ke jethI hAthI, vAdha, siMha, citto, dIpaDo, geMDo, hipopoTemasa, sUjha, jaMgalI bheMsa, kAMgAru, keribu ane anya prakAranAM haraNo tathA bhinnabhinna prakAranAM pakSIone emanuM naisargika vAtAvaraNa maLI rahe. ghaNA dezomAM zikAra upara pratibaMdha AvavAne kAraNe AvAM nirbhayAraNyomAM jaMgalI pazupakSIonI saMkhyAmAM thato ghaTADo lagabhaga baMdha jevo thaI gayo che. amerikAnA tamAma pArkamAM moTAmAM moTo te 'dainAlI naeNzanala pArka' che. jAte mulAkAta laIe tyAre ja khyAla Ave ke enI sAcavaNI mATe amerikAe keTalI badhI kALajI rAkhI che ! e mATe amerikAne kharekhara dhanyavAda ApavAnuM mana thayA vagara rahe nahi. denAlI pArka amerikAnA moTAmAM moTA rAjya alAskAmAM Avelo che. alAskAno eka cheDo uttara dhruva samudranA kinAre, bIjo cheDo beriMganI sAmudradhunI pAse, trIjo cheDo pesiphika mahAsAgaranA kinAre ane cotho cheDo briTiza kolaMbiyA pAse Avelo che. alAskA eTale uttara dhruvanI najIkano suvizALa pradeza. jyAM pharavA mATe me thI oNgasTa sudhInI Rtu anukULa gaNAya. moTarakAra hoya to pharavAnI sagavaDa savizeSa rahe. amAre mATe denAlI pArkanI mulAkAtano kAryakrama amArA putra ci. amitAbhe sAthe AvIne goThavyo hato. alAskAmAM enkareja zaherathI pherabenkasa zahera sudhInA hAive upara jatAM, pherabenkasa pahoMcatAM pahelAM denAlI pArka Ave che. ame pahelAM pherabenkasa pahoMcI tyAM rAta rokAyAM ane vahelI savAre nIkaLI denAlI pArkamAM pharavA mATe basa jyAMthI UpaDe che te senTaramAM pahoMcI gayAM. denAlI pArkamAM moTarakArane javAnI chUTa nathI. senTaranI oNphisamAMthI TikiTa laI ame zaTala basanI lAinamAM UbhAM rahyAM. eka basa AvI. gaNIne emAM pravAsIone levAmAM AvyA. barAbara amAro naMbara Avyo tyAM amane DrAivare nA pADI. basamAM ATha jeTalI beThaka khAlI hatI, chatAM amane na ex

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pa kenAlI nezanala pArka lIdhAM ethI Azcarya thayuM. DrAIvarane pUchyuM to kahe, "e amAro niyama che." AvA vicitra niyamanuM kAraNa amane samajAyuM nahi. pacIsa miniTa pachI bIjI basa AvI. ame temAM goThavAyAM. trIseka pravAsI levAmAM AvyA. emAM paNa ATha beThaka khAlI hatI. basa pUravegamAM paDI ane thoDI vAramAM vizALa moTo rasto choDI pArkanA daravAjA pAse AvI pahoMcI. DrAIvare kahyuM, "have ApaNe pArkanA vistAramAM dAkhala thaIe chIe. ahIMthI ApaNe vaMDara leIka sudhI jaIne pAchA pharIzuM. chayAsI mAIla jaIzuM ane pAchA pharIzuM. bIjA koI pArka karatAM A pArkanI keTalIka khAsiyata judI che. ahIM kudaratI vAtAvaraNa jALavI rAkhavA mATe sAro prayAsa karavAmAM Avyo che. eTale A mATIne kAco rasto hetupUrvaka rAkhavAmAM Avyo che. huM basa bahu dhImI gatie calAvIza ke jethI basa cAlavAno avAja paNa khAsa thAya nahi. tame basamAM beThAM beThAM baMne bAju najara karatA rahejo. maherabAnI karIne moTethI vAto karatA nahi. coranI jema ApaNe A pArkamAM javAnuM che. koI pazupakSI tamane dekhAya to tarata jaNAvaje. tarata basa UbhI raheze. basamAM besIne ja jeje. nIce UtarIne phoTA pADavA hoya to mane kahejo. paNa pazupakSInI bahu najIka jatA nahi. temane kazuM khAvAnuM ApatA nahi. temane bUma pADI bolAvatA nahi ke cIDavatA nahi. tamArAmAMthI koIne basamAMthI UtarI koI jagyAe AsapAsa laTAra mAravI hoya, vadhu nirIkSaNa karavuM hoya to UtarI zako cho. pAchaLa AvatI bIjI koI paNa basamAM besI zako cho. A ja TikiTa temAM cAle che. tame A rIte sAMja sudhI kyAsI mAIlamAM jeTalI vAra Iccho eTalI vAra caDaUtara karI zako cho. ahIM koI basa-sTaoNpa nathI. tame jyAM UbhA ho tyAM basa AvatI juo to hAtha UMco karajo. basa tamAre mATe UbhI raheze. dareka basamAM thoDI beThako khAlI hoya ja che.' basamAM beThako khAlI rAkhavAnuM prayojana amane samajAyuM. emAM dhana kamAvA karatAM pravAsIone saMtoSa ApavAnA dhyeyane mukhya gaNavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. DrAIvare kahyuM : "atyAre havAmAna ghaNuM svaccha ane sAruM che. AzA rAkhIe ke Akho divasa evuM sAruM rahe. ahIM havAmAna badalAtAM vAra nathI lAgatI. denAlInuM naisargika paryAvaraNa haja evuM ne evuM ja rahyuM che. lagabhaga sADA sAta hajAra corasa mAIlanA vistAramAM patharAyelA A prakRtiramya pArkamAM amerikAno UMcAmAM UMco parvata mekakinlI che. 20,320 phUTa UMcA A parvatanAM himAcchAdita zikharo vaMDara leIka pAsethI ApaNane jovA maLaze. A parvatane 1896mAM amerikAnA pramukha maeNkakinvInuM nAma ApavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. paraMtu te pUrve ahIM vasatA AthAbAskana jAtinA InDiyana lokomAM A parvata denAlI' (eTale UMcAmAM UMco)nA nAmathI jANIto hato. A parvata upara 1913mAM eka khristI pAdarI parvatArohaka haDasana sTake saphaLa ArohaNa karyuM hatuM.'

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana amArI basa ThIka ThIka vAra cAlI chatAM eka paNa pazu amane jovA maLyuM nahi. pravAsIo adhIrA thayA. DrAIvarane pUchApUcha karavA lAgyA. DrAIvara bhalo ane zAnta magajano hato. bIjo koI DrAIvara hoya to ema kahe ke A kaMI thoDI mArA hAthanI vAta che ? paraMtu ema na kahetAM amArA DrAIvare kahyuM, 'thoDI dhIraja rAkho. tamane prANIo jarUra jovA maLaze. jatAM ke AvatAM eka paNa prANI jovA na maLyuM hoya evuM mAre haju sudhI banyuM nathI. denAlI pArkamAM Azare be hajAra keribu (alAskAnA dhruva pradezanuM haraNa), be hajAra mUjha (sAbara jevAM ziMgaDAMvALI jaMgalI bhesa), traNaso prijhalI (Griply Akramaka, bhayAnaka) rIMcha che, baso kALarIMcha che, baso varu che ane aDhI hajAra parvatIya gheTAM Dall Sheep) che. bIjAM nAnAM pazupakSIo maLIne basothI vadhu jAtanAM prANIo che. amerikAnuM rASTrIya pakSI sapheda mAthAvALuM garuDa paNa ahIM jovA maLe che.' amArA grupamAM be prauDha mahilAo hatI. temaNe kahyuM, 'amane to mUjha jovAmAM rasa che. keribu ane rIMcha to bahu joyAM che..agAu be vakhata ame pArkamAM AvyAM hatAM, paNa mUjha jovA maLyuM nahotuM.' bIjuM koIka bolyuM, 'mAre paNa mUjha jevuM che. gheTAM, haraNa ane rIMcha to badhAe joyAM hoya.' mUjha Ama to haraNanI jAtinuM prANI che, yuropa ane amerikAnA uttara dhruva pradezamAM e jovA maLe che. alAskAmAM enI moTAmAM moTI jAta che. te kALA ke bhUkharA raMganuM, sarerAza cha phUTa UMcuM, pAMcasothI vadhu kilo vajanavALuM, bharAvadAra, AgaLanA be paga vadhu paDatA lAMbA hovAne kAraNe khUMdha nIkaLI hoya evA dekhAvavALuM, kaMIka kaDhaMguM, varavuM, abhadra lAge evuM prANI che. cAra phUTa UMcAM tenAM ziMgaDAM vAMkAcUMkAM, zAkhAprazAkhAvALAM, cheDe kodALI jevAM dhAravALAM hoya che. nAnA mAthA upara keTalo badho bhAra ! svarakSaNa mATe, zikAra mATe, barapha ke bIjuM kaMI toDavA-kUTavA mATe te eno upayoga kare che. kudarate dareka prANIne bhaugolika daSTie astitva dharAvavA mATe tevA prakAranA zarIranI racanA ApI che. emAM bicArA mUjhano zo vAMka ? basa dhImI gatie AgaLa vadhI rahI hatI. nirAza pravAsIo basanA pAradarzaka kAcamAMthI koI pazune jovA mATe AMkho phADIphADIne joI rahyA hatA. evAmAM eka sajjane harSanAda karatAM kahyuM, "hAza...chevaTe ApaNane eka kerikhu jovA maLyuM.' DrAIvare tarata basa UbhI rAkhI. e sajjananI sUcanA pramANe baso phUTa basa pAchI vALI. emaNe dUra dUra eka keribu batAvyuM. keTalAkane e dekhAyuM, keTalAkane nahi, kAraNa ke ghaNe Aghe e hatuM. keribu nIcuM moDhuM karIne ghAsa khAI rahyuM hatuM. paraMtu te jarA paNa hAlatuM cAlatuM

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kenAlI nezanala pArka G nahotuM. evAmAM eka bhAI moTuM zaktizALI dUrabIna lAvyA. emAMthI joyuM to e keribu nahotuM. dUra eka zilAnI AkRti evI hatI ke jANe keribu na hoya ! dRSTibhrama thAya evuM ja kharekhara hatuM'! prANIdarzananI nirAzAe badhAne hasAvI dIdhA. basa cAlI. samayano sadupayoga karavA mATe DrAivare denAlI pArkano itihAsa kahyo. A pArkanI sthApanA 1917mAM thaI hatI. maeNkakinlI parvatanI AsapAsano A vistAra hovAthI enuM nAma 'mAunTa maeNkakinlI naeNzanala pArka' rAkhavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. tyAre ahIM pravAsIo AvatA nahi. ghaNA vakhata sudhI evo bhrama rahyo hato ke baeNkakinlI parvatanuM paryAvaraNa barAbara sacavAya e mATe A pArkanI sthApanA karavAmAM AvI hatI. paraMtu parvata mATe pArka hoya to parvatanI dakSiNa dizAnA pradezano emAM kema samAveza karavAmAM na Avyo ? parvata to Ama paNa enI UMcAI, khaDako, bhekhaDo, barapha tathA gIca jhADIne kAraNe kudaratI rIte ja sacavAyelo hato. tyAM javAnuM loko mATe saraLa nahotuM. vAta ema banI hatI ke gaI sadInA aMte alAskAmAMthI sonuM nIkaLyuM che evI vAta prasaratAM ghaNA sAhasika vepArIo alAskAmAM pherabenkasamAM AvIne vasatA gayA. teo judA judA vistAramAM jamIna kharIdI tyAM khANa khodAvavA lAgyA. te vakhate moTI saMkhyAmAM khANiyA majUrone pherabenkasamAM vasAvavAmAM AvyA. A vadhatI jatI vastInA khorAka mATe ahIM gheTAM, keribu vagereno zikAra moTA pramANamAM thavA lAgyo. vyavasAyI zikArIo vadhI gayA. pazuonI saMkhyA ghaTavA lAgI. e vakhate eka zikArIne potAne A vistAranI ciMtA thavA lAgI. enuM nAma hatuM cArlsa zelDana. e zikAranI pravRtti vepAra mATe nahi paNa aMgata zokha mATe karato hato. zikAra uparAMta vRkSo, puSpo, pataMgiyAM, pakSIo vagerenA abhyAsano paNa ene zokha hato. e prakRtipremI (Naturalist) paNa hato. te 1906mAM A vistAramAM Avyo hato. potAno taMbU nAkhIne te judI judI jagyAe mukAma karato. lAgalagATa be varSa te A vistAramAM ghUmyo hato. eNe joyuM ke A vistArane 'naeNzanala pArka' tarIke rAjya taraphathI jAhera karavAmAM Ave to ja pazuono zikAra baMdha thAya. eNe e mATeno pracAra cAlu karI dIdho. judI judI kalabanA sabhyone te maLato ane potAnI ciMtA darzAvato. rAjakIya netAone paNa te maLato ane potAnI yojanA samajAvato. Ama dasa varSanI bhAre jahemata pachI ene saphaLatA maLI ane 1917mAM 'mAunTa maeNkakinlI naeNzanala pArka'nI racanA thaI ane tyArathI tyAM zikAra baMdha thayo. pachI to A pArkanI sAcavaNI mATe ghaNIbadhI jAgRti AvI gaI. khAnagI vAhano upara pratibaMdha Avyo. eka ja mukhya rasto che te paNa kAco rAkhavAmAM Avyo. anivArya evI eka-be nAnI imArato sivAya kazuM ja

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ve pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana bAMdhakAma na karavAno nirNaya levAyo. eTaluM ja nahi, pArkanuM nAma paNa badalIne AdivAsI nAma 'denAlI' rAkhavAmAM AvyuM. amArI basa dhIme dhIme AgaLa vadhatI jatI hatI. jema jema UMce jatA jaIe tema tema vRkSonAM kada nAnAM jovA maLe ane tenI saMkhyA paNa ochI hoya. cAre bAju DuMgarALa vistAra hato. vAdaLAM UmaTI AvyAM hatAM. tyAM DrAivare kahyuM, 'badhA sAMbhaLo ! tamane dasa vAgye be rIMcha dekhAze.' 'dasa vAgye ? atyAre nava vAgye kema nahi ?' amArAmAMthI koIke prazna karyo. DrAivare hasIne spaSTatA karI, 'dasa vAgye eTale dasa vAgyAnI dizAmAM.' 'eTale ?' keTalAke prazna karyo. keTalAka samajI gayA ane harSathI bolI UThyA, 'hA, amane be rIMcha dekhAya che.' khullAmAM bIjAne kaMI batAvavuM hoya to ghaDiyALanI paddhati bahu upayogI gaNAya che. (lazkaranA sainikone paNa A paddhatinI tAlIma ApavAmAM Ave che.) ApaNe ghaDiyALanA kendrasthAne UbhA hoIe ane je AMkaDAnI dizAmAM jovAnuM kahevAmAM Ave te bAju kahelA aMtare najara karIe to te vastu tarata najare paDe che. gUMcavADo Ubho thato nathI. savAre nIkaLyA pachI dasa vAgyAnI dizAmAM pahelI vAra amane be . pazu jovA maLyAM ethI badhA AnaMdita thaI gayA. ahIM amane UtaravA devAnI chUTa ApavAmAM na AvI, kAraNa ke rIMcha koIka vAra Akramaka banI jAya che. denAlI pArkamAM pahelethI kaDaka niyamone kAraNe rIMchane mANasa pAse AvavAnI khAsa Teva paDI nathI. rIMcha potAno kudaratI khorAka khAya che. manuSyonA khorAkanI ene Teva paDavA devAmAM AvI nathI. manuSya jevI AkRti pAsethI khAvAnuM maLI zake che evI samajaNa paNa ahIM rIMchamAM AvavA dIdhI nathI. rIMcha sAthenI jhapAjhapImAM mANasa ghavAya che; mRtyunA prasaMgo javalle ja bane che. denAlI pArkamAM jeo taMbU nAkhIne judA judA vistAramAM rAtavAso rahevA icchatA hoya temane svarakSaNa mATe mAhitI ane tAlIma ApavAmAM Ave che. ame have lagabhaga aDadhe raste AvyA. DrAivare kahyuM, 'have resTa rUma Avaze. tyAM tamane dasa miniTano virAma ApavAmAM Avaze. phoTA pADavA hoya, viDiyo utAravI hoya, paga chUTA karavA hoya, TaoNileTa javuM hoya to tene mATenuM e virAmasthAna che.' virAmasthAna AvyuM, paNa amerikAmAM anyatra hoya che tenA karatAM sAva juduM. nahi koI resTorAM, nahi koI dukAna. lAkaDAMnA kAmacalAu gAmaThI TaoNileTa banAvyAM hatAM. jeo sAthe kazuM khAvAnuM lAvyA na hatA teo to asvastha thaI gayA. virAma pachI basa AgaLa cAlI. have cAre bAju khulluM AkAza dekhAtuM hatuM. ghaNe dUra maeNkakinlI parvatanAM himAcchAdita zikharo vAdaLAMmAM saMtAkUkaDI ramatAM hatAM. ame

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kenAlI naeNzanala pArka VE denAlI pArkamAM dAkhala thayA tyAre UMcA UMcA pAina vRkSo ane bIjI vanaji vagere ThIka ThIka pramANamAM hatAM. paraMtu basa jema upara caDatI gaI tema nAnAM vRkSo ane TUMkuM ghAsa jovAM maLyAM. alAskAno Avo deza TuMDra - Tundra pradeza tarIke oLakhAya che. gheTAM, keribu, mUjha vagere AvA ghAsa para nabhe che. teo sarerAza eka divasamAM pacIsa kilogrAma jeTaluM ghAsa khAI zake che. amArI basa lagabhaga cAra hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe pahoMcI. tyAMthI joI zakAtuM hatuM ke nIcANavALA keTalAka bhAgomAM haju barapha pUro ogaLyo nahoto. zveta himanA caTApaTAvALA pradezo nihALI zakAtA hatA. tyAM to AkAzamAM kALAM vAdaLa gherAvA lAgyAM. basanA aMtima mathake ame pahoMcyA. DrAivare kahyuM, 'ApaNo ahIM sudhIno pravAsa pUro thAya che. ahIM senTara che. tyAM tame harIpharI zako cho. mAunTa maeNkakinlInAM zikharo have vAdaLAMone kAraNe tamane nahi dekhAya. tamane trIsa miniTano samaya ApavAmAM Ave che. niyata samaye ApaNe pAchA pharIzuM.' DrAivaranI sUcanA sAMbhaLI keTalAka nirAza thaI gayA. koIka bolyuM, 'ATalo samaya bahu ocho kahevAya.' 'eTalo samaya pUrato ja che.' DrAivare kahyuM. 'dhAro ke koine moDuM thAya to ?' 'to bIjI basamAM AvI zako cho. A TikiTa emAM cAlaze.' keTalAka pravAsIomAM kacavATanI lAgaNI prasarI. eMsI mAIlano pravAsa phakta trIsa miniTa mATe ja karavAno ? eka pachI eka ame basamAMthI UtaryA. tyAM to varasAda cAlu thaI gayo. keTalAka doDIne seTaranA makAnamAM pahoMcI gayA. keTalAka bhIMjAyA. vAtAvaraNamAM ThaMDI prasarI gaI. seTara eTale beThA ghATanuM eka makAna. emAM phoTA, philma, viDiyo kaeNseTa, pustako vagere vecatI nAnI nAnI dukAno hatI. zaucAlaya hatAM. paraMtu koI resTorAM nahotI. amerikanonI khAsiyatathI viparIta A sthaLa lAgyuM. keTalAka kaoNphI ke anya pINAM mATe phAMphAM mAravA lAgyA. paNa kazuM ja maLyuM nahi. paryAvaraNa jALavavA evuM kazuM rAkhyuM na hatuM. sadbhAgye, ame amArI bhAratIya Teva mujaba sAthe thoDuM bhAthuM bAMdhI lIdhuM hatuM te amAre ane bIjA keTalAkane kAma lAgyuM. ahIMthI mAunTa maeNkakinlInuM dRzya nihALavAyogya gaNAya che. paNa vAdaLAM ane dhummasane kAraNe e jovA maLyuM nahi. amArAmAMnA keTalAka to pAMca-sAta miniTamAM ja kaMTALI gayA ane basamAM jaIne beThA. khAvApIvAnuM na maLyuM eTale jovAmAM paNa rasa na paDyo. paryAvaraNa sAcavavA mATe amerikAe keTalI badhI cIvaTa rAkhI che te ahIM najare jovA-anubhavavA maLyuM.

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana paMdareka miniTamAM to ame paNa basamAM besI gayA. keTalAka pravAsIo to thAkIne UMghI gayA hatA. vAtAvaraNamAM ThaMDI prasarI gaI hatI eTale ghaNAe garama kapaDAM paherI lIdhAM hatAM. niyata samaye amArI basa UpaDI, e ja maMda gatie te cAlavA lAgI. DrAivara varNana karato rahyo. e to enI pharaja hatI. paNa pravAsIomAMthI traNacAra jaNa sivAya bIjA koIne rasa nahoto. ghaNAkharA to jhokAM khAtA hatA. aDadhe raste AvyA hoIzuM tyAM DrAivare kahyuM, 'traNa vAgye juo ! keribunuM moTuM ToLuM pasAra thaI rahyuM che.' paNa have traNa vAgye ke tera vAgye, AMkha UMcI karavAnI zakti keTalAmAM rahI hatI ? 80 adhavacce pAchuM virAmasthAna AvyuM. paNa koI UtaryuM nahi. DrAivara ekalo laTAra mArIne pAcho Avyo. basa nIcANamAM AvI eTale vAtAvaraNamAM thoDI uSmA AvI. garama kapaDAM UtaravA lAgyAM. jAgRti AvavA lAgI. mAMhomAMhe vAto thavA lAgI. pravAsa sAro rahyo paNa mUjha jovA maLyAM nahi. mUjha jovA trIjI vAra denAlI AvanArI pelI be prauDha amerikana mahilAone to pravAsa vyartha gayA jevo lAgyo. - denAlI pArkano amAro pravAsa pUro thayo. pArkano daravAjo vaTAvI amArI basa pAkA vizALa rastA para AvI gaI. have e saDasaDATa cAlavA lAgI. DrAivare jAherAta karI ke 'have thoDI vAramAM ApaNI basa seMTara pAse pahoMcaze, mATe saue potapotAnI cIjavastuo yAda karIne laI levI.' badhA pravAsIo svastha thaI gayA hatA. vAto karatA hatA ke 'ApaNe bhUkharAM ane kALAM rIMcha joyAM; keribu joyAM; gheTAM joyAM; sasalAM joyAM. ApaNe kamanasIba ke eka jovA na maLyuM mUjha. denAlImAM be hajAra jeTalAM mUjha che, paNa ApaNe mATe eka mUjha paNa navaruM nahotuM.' amArI vAto cAlatI hatI tyAM DrAivare acAnaka breka mArI. keTalAkane AMcako lAgyo. keTlAka DrAivara para ciDAyA. 'A te kaMI basa calAvavAnI rIta che ?' - mArAM patnIe paNa tarata phariyAda karI, 'TrAphika vagaranA rastA para breka mAravAnI zI jarUra ?' paNa DrAivare pote ja harSanI kikiyArI karI kahyuM, 'juo, juo ! mUjha rasto oLaMgI rahyAM che.' badhA UbhA thaI gayA. traNa mUjha acAnaka rastA para AvI caDyAM hatAM. moTAM kadAvara hatAM. ziMgaDAM paNa evAM ja. mUjha jotAM tALIonA gaDagaDATa thayA. kaeNmerA ane viDiyo kAme lAgI gayA. nIcANamAMthI doDatAM doDatAM mUjha rastA para AvyAM ane bIjI bAju nIcANamAM UtarI gayAM. koIke prazna karyo, 'paNa mUjha ahIM kevI rIte AvI zake ? e to pArkamAM hovAM joIe ne ?'

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8 kenAlI nezanala pArka A koI thoDo vADa bAMdhelo pArka che ke pazuo bahAra AvI na zake?' bIjAe javAba Apyo. pArka to ApaNe banAvyo ane hAIve paNa ApaNe banAvyo. ethI game tyAM pharavAnI pazuonI svataMtratA thADI cAlI jAya che ?' trIjAe kahyuM. vAta sAcI hatI. amana ane savizeSa to pelI prauDha mahilAone AnaMda to e vAtano hato ke abhadra dekhAtAM mUjhanAM bhadra darzane chevaTe amArA pArka-pravAsane subhadra banAvI dIdho hato.

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13 lesTaramAM aDadhI rAte I.sa. 1984nI A vAta che. iMgleMDamAM lesTara (Leicester) nAmanA zaheramAM eka dhArmika saMsthAnA kArya aMge cha aThavADiyAM amAre (mAre, mArAM patnIne tathA mArAM sAsune) rahevAnuM thayuM hatuM. lesTaramAM eka khAlI paDelA jUnA devaLane kharIdI enuM kalAtmaka maMdiramAM rUpAMtara karavAnI yojanA sthAnika saMsthA taraphathI hAtha dharavAmAM AvI hatI. chellA traNacAra dAyakAmAM iMgleMDamAM bhAratIya lokono vasavATa ghaNo vadhI gayo che. dharmasthaLonI jarUra paDI che. navI jagyA laI tyAM dharmasthaLa UbhuM karavAmAM samaya ane kharca je lAge tathA vahIvaTI kAryavAhI karavI paDe tenA karatAM vaparAyA vagaranAM paDI rahelAM jUnAM khristI devaLone kharIdIne enuM rUpAMtara karavAmAM ocho samaya ane maryAdita kharca lAge tathA jAhera dharmasthaLa mATenI jarUrI badhI paravAnagIo maLelI hoya eTale vahIvaTI vilaMba paNa ocho thAya. ame lesTara pahoMcyAM tyAre devaLa enA mULa svarUpamAM hatuM. nIce aMdaranI eka bAju bhIMto toDavAnuM vicArAI rahyuM hatuM. uparanA mALe eka bAjunA vizALa khaMDamAM bhakti, vyAkhyAna, satsaMga vagereno kAryakrama savAra-sAMja thato. zani-ravi ghaNI hAjarI rahetI. anya samaye devaLamAM ekalA gayA hoIe to bheMkAra lAge. lagabhaga be hajAra varSa pahelAM, romana sAmrAjyanA vakhatamAM sthapAyeluM, khetIvADI ane carma udyoga mATe jANItuM, hAla Azare cAra lAkhanI vastI dharAvatuM aitihAsika zahera lesTara iMgleMDanAM zaheromAM bahu moTuM na gaNAya, paraMtu bhAratIya lokomAM, vizeSata: gujarAtIomAM te have bahu jANItuM thaI gayuM che. gujarAtIonI ThIka ThIka vastI lesTaramAM AvIne vasI che. briTane pUrva AphrikAnAM potAnAM saMsthAno choDyAM tyAre tyAM vasAvelA eziyAvAsIomAMnA ghaNAne briTiza pAsapaoNrTa ApyA ke jethI teo icche to briTanamAM AvIne vasI zake. emAM paNa yugAnDAmAM atyAcArI idI amInanA zAsana daramiyAna hajAro gujarAtIo yugAnDA choDIne briTana pahoMcI gayA. keTalAka to behAla sthitimAM bhAgyA hatA. emAMnA keTalAka lesTaramAM jaIne vasyA. Ama, lesTara eTale jANe ke gujarAtIonuM mathaka. lesTaranI keTalIka zerIomAM pharIe to jANe gujarAtamAM hoIe vara

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lesTaramAM aDadhI rAte 3 tevuM lAge. eka mitrane pUcheluM ke briTananAM bIjAM zahero choDIne gujarAtIoe lesTara kema pasaMda karyuM ? enAM ghaNAM kAraNomAMnuM eka mahattvanuM kAraNa e hatuM ke tyAre gharonI kiMmata ane bhADAM baMne lesTaramAM ochAM hatAM. eTale jemane laMDana na posAya te lesTara jAya. vaLI sagAMsaMbaMdhIonI pAse pAse rahevAnI bhAvanAne lIdhe paNa ekanI pAchaLa bIjA kheMcAtA gayA. AraMbhamAM to tyAM mukhyatve madhyama varganA sAdhAraNa sthitinA gujarAtIonuM pramANa vadhyuM hatuM, paNa pachI ApabaLe teo AgaLa vadhatA gayA ane enI sAthe lesTaranI ronaka vadhatI gaI. devaLathI thoDe cheTe AvelA eka vizALa saMphalanAM ekasarakhAM makAnomAMnA eka makAnamAM bIje mALe eka phleTamAM amane saMsthA taraphathI utAro ApavAmAM Avyo hato. dareka mALe sAmasAme be phlaeNTa hatA. amArI sAmeno phlaeNTa saMsthAe potAnI oNphisa mATe rAkhyo hato. amArA khAlI phlaeNTamAM pharnicara vasAvavAnuM hatuM ane rasoDuM cAlu karavAnuM hatuM. pahele divase ja phlaeNTamAM dAkhala thaI ame amAro sAmAna goThavatAM hatAM tyAM bAraNe TakorA thayA (saMkulamAM koI ghare ilekTrika ghaMTaDI ApavAmAM AvI nahotI). saMsthAnA koI kAryakartA AvyA haze ema mAnI bAraNuM kholyuM to eka vayovRddha aMgreja sajjanane joyA. kaDaka avAje teo bolyA, 'tame ahIM rahevA AvyA cho ?' 'hA, ja.' 'ame tamArI nIce rahIe chIe. tame gharamAM cAlo cho eno nIce dhaba dhaba avAja Ave che. amArAthI e sahana thato nathI.' 'e mATe ame kharekhara dilagIra chIe. amane khabara nahi ke nIce avAja Avato haze.' 'oha, tamArA phleTamAM kArapeTa dekhAtI nathI. tarata kArapeTa nakhAvo ke jethI avAja Ave nahi.' 'ame haju Aje ja AvyAM chIe. phlaeNTamAM kazuM ja nathI..phrija, phona, pharnicara, kArapeTa...ame tarata badhuM vasAvI laIzuM. tamane taklIpha paDI che e mATe kSamA mAgIe chIe.' mijAjI cahere teo nIce cAlyA gayA. ame saMsthAnA mukhya kAryakartAne vAta karI. eka pachI eka vastuonA oNrDara devAtA jaze enI khAtarI temaNe ApI. bIje divase gharamAM palaMga, sophA, phrija ane TI.vI. AvI gayAM. rasoDuM paNa cAlu thaI gayuM. sAMje jamIne ame TI.vI jotAM beThAM hatAM tyAM bAraNe TakorA paDyA. nIcevALA kAkA ja AvyA hatA. emanI AMkhomAM roSa hato. amArA phleTamAM kArapeTa nahotI AvI e sAcuM, paNa ame sAcavIne cAlatAM hatAM ane aDadhA kalAkathI ame koI cAlyAM nahotAM. TI.vI. jotAM beThAM hatAM. kAkAe kaDaka zabdomAM kahyuM, 'tamArA

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84 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana TI.vI.no avAja nIce Ave che. kAM to tame bArI baMdha karo ane kAM to TI.vI. ghImuM karo, samajyA ?' ame bArI paNa baMdha karI ane TI.vI. paNa baMdha karyuM. vRddha aMgrejanA asahiSNu svabhAvano paricaya thaI gayo. pAzcAtya dezomAM keTalAka loko moTo avAja sAMbhaLavAne TevAyelA nathI hotA. emanI zravaNendriya pachI to atyaMta tIvra ane saMvedanazIla banI jAya che. ene lIdhe svabhAva paNa asahiSNu thaI jAya che. tarata bIjAne TokavAnI Teva paDI jAya che. potAne koInI garaja paDaze nahi ane koIne jarA paNa sAMkhI levuM nahi evI vRtti prabaLa thaI jAya che. AvAM kAraNothI ja ekalatAvAdI, ahaMkendrI jIvanazailI ghaDAya che. dasabAra varSathI bAjubAjumAM rahetA hoya ane chatAM koI ekabIjAnA gharamAM gayA na hoya, are, nAma sudhdhAM jANatA na hoya evI sthiti paNa tyAM jovA maLaze. ame 'nIcevALA kAkA tarIke jemane oLakhavAnuM cAlu karyuM hatuM emanI AvI vartaNUkathI jUnI peDhInAM, bhAratIya jIvanapaddhatithI TevAyelAM mArAM sAsune bahu Azcarya thayuM. emaNe kahyuM, videzamAM rahevA AvavuM ane zarUAtamAM ja paDozI sAthe aNabanAva thAya e kema posAya ? sAjeda ke kaMI mullI hoya to paDozI ja pahelAM kAmamAM Ave." e vAta sAcI, paNa ahIMnA lokonI prakRti ja judI, sarakAra emane sAcave. eTale koInI garaja na rahe. pahelAM to kALA-gorAno bheda paNa bahu raheto. have e ghaNo ocho thaI gayo che eTaluM sAruM che. nahi to A gorA aMgreja lokonI vacce ApaNe rahI paNa na zakIe." meM kahyuM. bIje divase bhakita ane satsaMganA kAryakramamAM ame gayAM nIcevALA kAkAnI vAta karI. koIka vRddha lokonA cIDiyA svabhAvano bacAva karyo, to koIke kahyuM, huM hou to AvA kacakaciyA mANasane barAbara pATha bhaNAvuM. bIje divase khAlI karIne bIje rahevA cAlyA jAya.' yunivarsiTImAM bhaNatI eka yuvatIe kahyuM, 'ramaNabhAI, ema sAMbhaLI nahi levAnuM ! kAkAne kahI do ke avAja sahana na thato hoya to svataMtra gharamAM rahevA jAya, phleTamAM na rahevAya. tame mane je rajA Apo to huM DAnsanI mArI prekTisa tamArA phalaeNTamAM AvIne karuM. kAkAne huM pahoMcI vaLuM avI chuM. kAkAne kAyadA AvaDe che to maneya kAyadA AvaDe che." meM manomana kahyuM, "ApaNe thoDA divasa rahevuM tyAM AvI vAtane kyAM vadhAravI ? sAcavI levuM.' bhakti ane satsaMgano kAryakrama pUro thayo. eka kAryakartAe jAherAta karI : badhA hoddedAro rokAya. ApaNe bhaMDAra kholI aMdaranI rakama gaNIne ghare laI javAnI che, kAraNa

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lesTaramAM aDadhI rAte ke A aThavADiyAmAM be vakhata koI bhaMDAra kholIne rakama corI gayuM che. havethI rojeroja bhaMDAra khAlI karI levAze.' A jAherAta thatAM mAMhomAMhe vAto thavA lAgI. hamaNAM A vistAramAM corInA banAvo vadhatA jAya che. koIke potAnA gharamAM AvelA coranI vAta karI. to koIka laMDanamAM potAnA sagAne tyAM thayelI corInI kahANI mAMDI. kevI kevI sAvacetI rAkhavI joIe tenI vAto thaI. rAtanA bahAra gayA hoIe to phonanuM risIvara nIce mUkI devuM joIe ke jethI ApaNA gharamAM koI che ke nahi te jANavA cora ApaNo naMbara meLavIne phona kare te 'egaja' Ave athavA gharamAM TI.vI. ke TeparekaoNrDara moTA avAje cAlu rAkhIne bahAra javuM joIe. navA prakAranI corInI paddhatio ane navA prakAranA upAyono vicAra dareka jamAnAmAM thavAno, kAraNa ke corInuM dUSaNa to AdikALathI cAlyuM Ave che. ahIM keTalAMka gharomAM phona uparAMta evuM baTana nakhAvavAmAM Ave che ke je dabAvatAM polIsasTezanamAM sIdhI ghaMTaDI vAge. mArI patnIe kahyuM, "amArA phleTamAM phona paNa nathI ane juduM baTana paNa nathI, paNa amane enI ciMtA nathI, kAraNa ke amArI pAse hoya zuM te laI jAya ?' evuM na mAnazo, tArAbahena ! ahIMnA cora jANe che ke inDiyanonA gharamAM kazuM na hoya to paNa strInA zarIra para thoDAM ghareNAM to hoya ja.' eka bahene salAha ApI. A vistAramAM dArUnI dukAno paNa che ane corInuM dUSaNa che e vAte amane thoDAM sAvadhAna banAvI dIdhAM. cAreka divasa pachI ame sAMjanA eka kAryakrama mATe laMDana gayAM hatAM. pAchA AvatAM rAtanA sADAbAra vAgI gayA. eka kAryakartA amane phalaeNTa para mUkI gayA. ame sUvAnI taiyArI karatAM hatAM tyAM bAraNe TakorA paDyA. koNa haze atyAre aDadhI rAte ? bAraNuM kholyuM te nIcevALA kAkA ja hatA. AMkho coLatA gussAmAM kahevA lAgyA, 'haju tama kArapeTa nathI nakhAvI ? amArI UMgha bagADI. tame tarata kArapeTa nahi nakhAvo to mAre polIsane phariyAda karavI paDaze.' ame kAkAnI mAphI mAgI bAraNuM baMdha karyuM. vicAra karyo ke ApaNe koI dhaDa dhaDa cAlyAM nathI to avAja nIce gayo kevI rIte? kadAca kAkAne mAnasika bhrama to nahi thayo hoya? paNa pachI yAda AvyuM ke e avAja amArAM pagalAMne nahoto, paNa mUkavA AvelA kAryakartAnAM pagalAMno hato. 'A kAkA to bahu jabarA ane cIkaNA che, paNa ApaNe takarAra nathI karavI.' mArAM sAsue kahyuM. meM emane kahyuM, 'have kAle zAne mATe phariyAda karaze, te khabara che ?' nA.'

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana A tame rasoI vakhate vaghAra karo cho e sahana thato nathI evI phariyAda laIne Avaze.' meM majAkamAM kahyuM, sivAya ke kAkA mArI majAkane sAcI pADe. "mANasa game teTalo jabaro hoya to paNa enAmAM bhalAIno thoDo aMza to hoya ja. huM to ema kahuM chuM ke bhAratanI jema kAkAnA ghara sAthe ApaNe vATakI. vyavahAra cAlu karIe to ?' "evuM ahIM thAya nahi. ahIMnA lokone e game nahi. ApaNe cAlu karIe topaNa e vyavahAra ekataraphI ja rahe.' chatAM karI jovAmAM zo vAMdho che ? ApaNuM apamAna karaze, mAraze to nahine ?' carcAne ati nakkI thayuM ke ApaNe evo vyavahAra cAlu karavo. avaLAne badale savaLA vicAromAM citta parovAyuM eTale UMgha paNa jaldI AvI gaI. bIje divase savAre kAkAne bAraNe meM Takoro mAryo. bAraNuM khUlyuM. e ja kaDaka lakhI mukhAkRti, bhAvavihIna svare teo bolyA, kema, zuM che ?' huM Apane nimaMtraNa ApavA Avyo chuM. Aje sAMje Apa baMne amArA ghare jamavA padhAro.' 'jamavA ? paNa zA mATe ?' "basa ema ja, amArI IcchA che ke Apa amArA ghare padhAro ane Apane je anukULa lAge te amArI bhAratIya vAnagIo cAkho.' mApha karajo. ame e rIte kayAMya jatA nathI." 'tame Avazo to amane AnaMda thaze. premathI Apane nimaMtraNa ApIe chIe.' ghaNI AnAkAnI pachI, kAkIne pUchIne kAkAe chevaTe saMmati ApI. samaya nakkI thayo. ame notarA pachI teDAnI prathA paNa apanAvI. kAkAkAkIne Agraha karIne huM amArA phleTamAM laI Avyo. jamavA beThAM. emane lApasI, bhajiyAM, pApaDa vagere vAnagIo bhAvI. bAphelI ziMga paNa bahu bhAvI. ame bhojana pachI pApaDa vagerenuM bhAthuM paNa baMdhAvyuM. ema kahevAya che ke game tevA jabarA mANasane paNa peTathI jItI zakAya che. peTamAM paDelo annano dANo kAma karyA vagara raheto nathI. kAkA sAthenI vAtacIta parathI eTaluM jANavA maLyuM ke teo nivRtta sarakArI amaladAra che. gherabeThAM pAna Ave che eTale AjIvikAnI koI ciMtA nathI. be dIkarAo che. paraMtu teo judAM judAM zaheromAM potAnA kuTuMba sAthe rahe che. emanI sAthe khAsa saMparka rahyo nathI; jarUra paNa nathI. kAma hoya to na Ave evuM paNa nathI. koIne koInI jarUra nathI e ahIMnI jIvanazailI che. kAkA kAkI sAthe jarAka gharobo thatAM emanI phariyAdo maTI gaI. have to dAdaramAM maLe to sAmethI smita pharakAve ane vAta karavAnI utsukatA batAve. haju amArA

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87 lesTaramAM aDadhI rAte phaphleTamAM kArapeTa AvI nahotI eTale ame cAlavAmAM sAcavatAM. pachInA zukravAre laMDanamAM eka kAryakramamAM hAjarI ApIne rAtre bAreka vAge ame lesTara pAchAM pharyA, cAlavAno thoDo avAja thayo haze, paNa kAkA AvyA nahi. thAkelAM hatAM eTale ame ghasaghasATa UMghI gayAM. huM bharaUMghamAM hato tyAM mArAM patnIe mane DhaMDhoLIne kahyuM, "sAMbhaLo cho ? koI bAraNuM khaTakhaTAve che.' nIcevALA kAkA ja haze ! kharA che e! "sorI' kahI de eTale vAta patI jAya." nA, e nathI lAgatA. ghaDiyALamAM juo, traNa vAgyA che. vaLI bAraNuM khaTakhaTAvavAno avAja paNa judo che.' huM ekadama beTho thaI gayo. mArAM sAsu paNa emanA rUmamAMthI AvI pahocyAM. AvI aDadhI rAte to koI coraDAku ja hoya. sAruM thayuM ke bAraNuM ughADyuM nahi. koI rivaoNlvara sAthe gharamAM ghUsI Ave to jakhama thAya. ame kaMI javAba Apyo nahi. eTaluM nakkI karyuM ke bAraNuM kholavuM nathI. cora na hoya ane koI dArUDiyo hoya ane gharamAM ghUsI Ave topaNa dhamAla thaI jAya. vaLI amAruM bAraNuM paNa takalAdI hatuM. enI sTaoNpara paNa sarakhI vasAtI nahotI. koI baha jera karIne dhakko mAre te khUlI jAya. pharIthI bAraNuM jorathI khaTakhaTAvavAno avAja Avyo. koInI vAta sAMbhaLIe ke calacitramAM coraDAkunAM dazyo joIe ane kharekhara vAstavika anubhava thAya e be vacce keTalo badho pharaka che e have samajAyuM. ame saciMta thaI gayAM. gharamAM phona nahoto. eTale koI ghUsI Ave to zuM karavuM? vicAryuM ke bhAratanI jema "cora, cora' bolI bUmAbUma karI mUkavI. ahIM koI "cora' zabda samajavAnuM nathI, paNa ApaNane to rADArADa karavA sAthe nisbata che. jUnA jamAnAnAM mArAM sAsue potAno upAya vicArI lIdho. emaNe kahyuM, 'huM to rasoDAmAM saMtAIne UbhI rahIza. koI humalo karavA Avaze to AMkhamAM maracAMnI bhUkI nAkhIza.' meM bAraNA pAse jaI kahyuM, 'misTara tame khoTI jagyAe AvyA cho. mATe cAlyA jAo.' eTaluM bolI huM mArA rUmamAM AvIne beTho. amArI bArImAMthI nIce makAnano daravAjo dekhAto hato. koI jAya che ke nahi te jevA saMtAIne najara karI, paNa koI dekhAyuM nahi. thoDI vAra thaI tyAM pharIthI jorathI bAraNuM khaTakhaTAvAyuM. have jo e na jAya to bUmAbUma cAlu karI devI paDaze ema vicAryuM. pharIthI bAraNA pAse jaI meM moTethI ka 'tame khoTI jagyAe AvyA cho. ame bAraNuM kholavAnAM nathI. nahi jAo to a. polIsane phona karIe chIe.'

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana tarata dAdara para dhaDa dhaDa UtaravAno avAja Avyo. have e mANasa gayo lAge che ema amane thayuM. e kSaNanI rAhata to jeNe anubhavI hoya tene ja samajAya. pharI saMtAIne bArInA kAcamAMthI ame joyuM. makAnamAMthI eka mANasa bahAra nIkaLyo, UMco, jADo, ovarakoTa ane heTa paherelo. doDato e saMkulanI bahAra nIkaLI gayo. dekhAto baMdha thayo eTale amane zAnti thaI. hA, Aphata TaLI ! have UMgha Ave kayAMthI ? ane lAITa karI kAma karavAnuM paNa yogya na lAgyuM. subdha thayelA cittane zAMta karavAno amAro upAya te sAmAyika ane jApano hato. ame emAM parovAyAM. savAre dUdha levA huM nIce Utarato hato tyAM kAkA maLyA. huM kaMI kahuM e pahelAM emaNe ja kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, rAtanA traNacAra vAge tamArA phleTamAMthI avAja Avato hato. mArI to UMgha UDI gaI hatI. huM tamane kahevA AvavAno vicAra karato hato, paNa pachI thayuM ke kAraNa vagara tame avAja karo nahi.' meM kahyuM, 'kAkA, ame avAja nahotAM karatAM. koI ajANyo mANasa bAraNuM Thokato hato. khabara nathI ke koNa hatuM e.' oha, to to koI coraDApha haze ! A vistAramAM evI ghaTanAo koIka vAra bane che. sAruM thayuM ne ke huM upara na Avyo, nahi to kaMI dhamAdhama thaI jAta.' e sAMje bhakti-satsaMganA kAryakramamAM ame amArA anubhavanI vAta karI. e sAMbhaLI kAryakartAone ciMtA thaI. eke kahyuM, "kadAca koI jANabhedu hoya ! A kuTuMba ahIM navuM AvyuM che, ajANyuM che, binaanubhavI che, eTale lUMTI levAze ema dhArIne koI Avyo hoya !' bIjAe kahyuM, "gaI kAle zukravAranI rAta hatI. eTale eka zakayatA evI paNa kharI ke zukravAre rAtre keTalAka loko moDI rAta sudhI dArU DhIMcatA hoya che. pachI bhAna bhUle che ane ekane badale bIjA ja makAnamAM jaI paDe che. ahIM ghaNAM makAno paNa ekasarakhAM ja hoya che. divase paNa ApaNe naMbara yAda rAkhavo paDe." koNa AvyuM haze ane kyA IrAdAthI AvyuM haze eno bheda to Ukalyo nahi, paNa kAryakartAoe te ja rAte phonanI vyavasthA karAvI ApI ane aDadhI rAte paNa phona karIne teone uThADavAmAM saMkoca rAkhavo nahi evI dharapata ApI. lesTaramAM cha aThavADiyAMnA amArA rokANa daramiyAna thayelA vividha anubhavomAMno aDadhI rAtano A diladhaDaka anubhava avismRta banI gayo che.

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14 roTozuA nyUjhIlenDamAM jovA jevA mahatvanAM sthaLomAMnuM eka te roTozuA (raoNTaoNruvA) che. te jvALAmukhI zahera (Volcanic City) che. jvALAmukhI zAnta thaI gayA pachI, gaI sadImAM e tyAM vaseluM che. ame judA judA dezanA keTalAka pravAsIo eka TUrisTa kaMpanInI TUramAM tyAM javA nIkaLyA hatA. amArI basano DrAIvara e ja amAro gAIDa hato. enuM nAma hatuM jahona kesavela. te ghaNo maLatAvaDo, bolakaNo ane majAkamazkarI karavAnA svabhAvavALo hato. potAnA viSayano paNa te accho jANakAra hato. basamAM potAnI sITa sAme rAkhelA moTA arIsAmAM paDatAM amArAM pratibiMba joto jAya ane amArI sAthe vAta karato jAya. potAnA moDhA AgaLa rAkhelA mAIkamAM e bolato jAya ane badhuM samajAvato jAya. okalenDathI amArI basa eka pachI eka gAma vaTAvatI AgaLa vadhatI hatI. jevA jevAM sthaLe ame rokAtAM. Akhe raste hariyALI TekarIo jovA maLe. emAM caratAM seMkaDo gheTAMo dUrathI nAnAM nAnAM sapheda TapakAM jevAM bhAsatAM, jANe lIlA raMganI bAMdhaNI na hoya ! roTozuA ame pahoMcavA AvyAM. gAIDe kahyuM, 'roTozuA zaheranuM nAma pAse AvelA roTaA sarovara parathI paDyuM che. gaI sadImAM garama pANInAM jharaNAne kAraNe ArogyanA hetuthI A sthaLe loko AvavA lAgyA. AsapAsanA pradezanA mAorI nAmanA AdivAsIo paNa ahIM AvIne vasavA lAgyA. hoTela, moTelo, gharo, dukAno ema baMdhAtAM gayAM ane ema karatAM aMgrejonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna A zahera vikAsa pAmyuM. ahIM Azare pacAsa hajAranI vastI che. emAM aDadhA mAorI che ane aDadhA ahIM AvIne vaselA yuropiyanonA vaMzajo che. ame roToA pahocavA AvyA. jANe koI yuddhabhUmi najIka AvyA hoIe tevuM lAgyuM. mazInagana phUTatI hoya evA avAje thoDI thoDI vAre AvavA lAgyA. koI koI ThekANe dhumADAnA goTA UMce sudhI jatA hatA. ane tyAMthI pasAra thayA tyAre joyuM ke koI koI sthaLe jamInamAMthI dhagadhagatA garama pANIno phuvAro acAnaka pacAsa-so phUTa UMce UDe ane tarata baMdha thAya. sAthe mazInagana jevo avAja thAya. koI koI jagyAe pANInA UDavA sAthe Trena cAlatI hoya athavA kArakhAnuM cAlatuM hoya evA avAje AvatA hatA. rastAnI baMne bAjunI UMcInIcI jamInamAM AvuM jovA maLatuM hatuM. 89

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0 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana rastA para cAlatA mANasonI avarajavara lagabhaga nahi jevI hatI, sivAya ke makAna ke dukAna AgaLa koI pharatA hoya. jvALAmukhInI je jagyA have taddana zAnta, upadravarahita thaI gaI che tyAM rastAo, hoTelo, moTelo vagere karavAmAM AvyAM che. gAIDe kahyuM, 'roToruAmAM koI paNa jagyAe boriMga karavAmAM Ave to thoDA phUTa nIce jatAM gaMdhakanI vAsavALuM garama pANI nIkaLe che. eTalA mATe to roToAne gaMdhakanagara Sulphur City paNa kahevAmAM Ave che. ame roTozuA zaheramAM dAkhala thayA. hoTelo ane moTelo AvavA lAgI. dareka upara Mineral Bath athavA Thermal PooonuM borDa moTA akSare vaMcAya. pravAsIo mATe garama pANInA hoja e dareka hoTela-moTelanuM mahattvanuM lakSaNa gaNAya. keTalAka loko Arogya mATe ahIM vadhAre divasa rokAya. keTalIka hoTelamAM to enA makAnanI bahAra, rastA parathI dekhAya evA vadhArAnA hoja banAvavAmAM AvyA hatA. keTalIka moTI hoTelomAM evA khullA moTA hoja uparAMta dareka rUmamAM garama pANIno nAno kuMDa hoya. amArI basa eka moTela pAse pahocI. moTelamAM rahevAnI ane jAte banAvI levAnAM cApANInI sagavaDa hoya, paNa bhojananI sagavaDa na hoya. ame potapotAnI rUmamAM sAmAna mUkI eka kalAkano ArAma karI roTozuAnAM judAM judAM sthaLo jevA UpaDyA. ame eka jagyAe pahoMcyAM. mAorI loko cokhA, makAI, zAkabhAjI vagere garama pANInA kuMDamAM boLI rAkhIne pakavatA hatA. (A dazya joIne yamunotrInA garama pANInA kuMDamAM eka poTalImAM cokhA mUkI te sIjhavIne bhAta banAvI khAdhAnuM smaraNa tAjuM thayuM.) keTalIka jagyAe satata nIkaLatA gesane pAIpa vATe laI cUlA banAvavAmAM AvyA hatA. emAM divasa-rAta gesa saLagyA kare. enA upara ghaNA loko rasoI karI letA hatA. keTalIka jagyAe jamInamAM khADo khodI, emAMthI nIkaLatI garama garama varALamAM khAdyasAmagrI mUkI, upara lAkaDAnuM ke loDhAnuM pATiyuM DhAMkI devAmAM AvatuM. varALanI garamI jeTalI hoya te pramANe eTalA samayamAM rAMdhavAnuM taiyAra thaI jAya. AvI rIte karelA bhojanane ahIMnA mAorI loko "hAMgI' kahe che. amArI basa AgaLa cAlI. gAIDa jahone mAorI lokono paricaya ApatAM kahyuM, 'mArI loko nyUjhIlenDanA AdivAsIo che. dakSiNa pesiphika mahAsAgaranA A vistAramAM saikAo pUrve AdivAsI ToLIo khetI, zikAra, mAchalI, gheTAMno uchera vagerenI daSTie eka TApu uparathI bIjA TApu upara sthaLAMtara karatI rahetI hatI. e rIte saikAo pUrve keTalIka polInizayana jAtinA loko nyUjhIlenDanA TApuomAM AvIne vasyA te mAorI tarIke oLakhAyA. mAorI AdivAsIo gorI cAmaDInA che. cahero goLa ke laMbagoLa hoya che. teo ghaNA sazakta ane buddhizALI che. ogaNIsamI sadInA madhya bhAgamAM aMgrejoe jyAre nyUjhIlenDa upara kabajo meLavI potAnuM saMsthAna

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roTogruA banAvyuM tyAre mAorI lokoe bhAre laData ApI hatI, paraMtu Adhunika zastrothI sajaja briTiza sainiko sAme teo vadhu jhUjhI zakayA nahi. aMgrejo ane bIjA yuropiyano ahIM AvIne vasyA. mArI sAthe teo haLyAMbhaLyA. duniyAnI sekaDo AdivAsI jAtiomAM prathama naMbare kadAca mAorI loko Ave. teo sauthI vadhu pragatizIla che. haju ghaNA mAorI jaMgalomAM ane dUranA TApuomAM AdivAsI jevuM jIvana jIve che, paraMtu ghaNA mAorI have khetI ke gheTAMucheranuM kAma nathI karatA. teo yunivarsiTIomAM abhyAsa kare che, judA judA vyavasAyomAM joDAyelA che, sarakArI nokarIomAM che, kArakhAnAMonA mAlika che, pArlAmenTa sabhya paNa che ane minisTara paNa banyA che. moTAM zaheromAM mAorI ane emanI prajA paNa moTI thaI gaI che.' mAorIno paricaya ApyA pachI jahone kahyuM, "A badhuM sAMbhaLI tamane badhAne mAorI lokone maLavAnuM mana thayuM haze ! e mATe Aje sAMje ja ApaNe kAryakrama goThavyo che. tamane mAorI lokanRtya jovA maLaze. mArI eka khAsa mahilAmitra A lokanRtyanI saMcAlikA che. tamane badhAne joIne e to eTalI badhI rAjI thaI jaze ke vAta na pUcho !' amArI basa AgaLa cAlI. eka sthaLe UbhI rahI. tyAM garama pANInuM nAnuM taLAva hatuM. nIlA raMganA dhagadhagatA pANImAMthI varALanA goTegoTA satata nIkaLatA hatA. enA pANInuM tApamAna eTaluM badhuM che ane taLAva eTaluM badhuM UMDuM che ke enuM mApa koI kADhI zakayuM nathI, eTalA mATe enuM Bottomless Pond (ataLa taLAva) evuM nAma paDI gayuM che. enA kinAre keTalAka mAorI loko anAjano kothaLo pANImAM DUbADI te sIjhavatA hatA. ame bIjA eka sthaLe gayAM. tyAM eka khaDaka hato jenuM nAma hatuM Boxing Gloves. javALAmukhI jyAre phATyo haze ane dhagadhagato lAvArasa UchaLI uchaLIne TharavA lAgyo haze tyAre A sthaLe evI AkRti thaI gaI che ke jANe baoNsiMganI ramata mATenAM rabaranAM jADAM moTAM mojAM na hoya ! bIjA eka sthaLe eka sAva nAnuM khAbociyuM hatuM. emAM pANI nahotuM paNa bhIno kAdava hato. kAdava khadabadato hato. moTA moTA parapoTA dekhAtA ane kAdava UMconIco thayA karato hato. nIcethI nIkaLatA garama pANI ane joradAra pavanane lIdhe khadakhatA kAdavanA loMdA thoDA UMce UchaLI jarAka Aghe jaIne paDatA. AvA UchaLatA loMdA te jANe deDakAM kUdatAM na hoya evA lAgatA hatA. eno raMga paNa deDakAnA raMga jevo hato. ethI e khAbociyAnuM nAma Frog Pond paDI gayuM che. roToruAmAM dharatInA peTALamAM gaMdhakavALuM garama pANI che ane gesa che. paraMtu varasAda paDavAne lIdhe ahIM dharatInI upara ThaMDA pANInuM eka chIcharuM jharaNuM vahe che. enuM

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92 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana pANI kAca jevuM pAradarzaka che. ThaMDA pradezomAM garama pANInAM jharaNAM ke kuMDa pavitra manAya che. ahIM lAvArasanA pradezamAM ThaMDA pANInAM jharaNAno mahimA moTo che. A jharaNAMnA pula uparathI pasAra thatA loko pANImAM sikkA nAkhatA jAya che. AvA sikkA levA mATe mArI laMgoTiyA chokarAo pANImAM rahe che ane sikko paDe ke tarata te levA mATe DUbakI mAre che. ame paNa tyAM pahoMcIne sikkA nAkhyA. jahone kahyuM, "A chokarAonA gAla tame joyA ? keTalA phUlelA che ? enuM kAraNa khabara che? enuM kAraNa e che ke roja savArathI sAMja sudhI jema jema sikkA maLatA jAya tema tema tarata teo sAcavavA mATe tene moDhAnA galophAmAM mUkIne bharAvI rAkhe che.' meM kahyuM, "amArA bhAratamAM keTalAMka tIrthasthaLomAM vAMdarAo A rIte vadhArAnuM khAvAnuM galophAmAM bharAvI rAkhe che. eTale emanA gAla paNa evA phUlelA ane labaDelA thaI jAya che.' roToruAmAM bIjAM keTalAMka sthaLa joIne ame "hoTala roTozuA InTaranezanalamAM pahoMcyAM. sAMja paDavA AvI hatI. A vizALa hoTelamAM amAre mATe mAorI lokanRtya jevAno ane hAMgInA bhojanano kAryakrama rAkhavAmAM Avyo hato. jahone pharI kahyuM, ahIM tamane khUba majhA Avaze. mAorI lokanRtyanI nirdezikA polIne mArI khAsa mitra che. tame jojo ke mane jotAM ja te kevI AnaMdamAM AvI jAya che ane nAcavA lAge che." ame hoTelamAM dAkhala thayAM. mAorI yuvakayuvatIoe amAruM svAgata karyuM. mArI bhASAmAM kahyuM, 'kiyA orA'. ane moDhAmAMthI jIbha kADhI. 'kiyA orA' eTale tamAruM svAgata karIe chIe. mahemAnonuM svAgata karavA mATe moDhAmAMthI jIbha kADhavAno teomAM rivAja che. hoTelamAM dAkhala thaIne enA udhAnamAM ame beThAM. hone kahyuM, "mAorInI saMskRti judI che. teo moDhA upara ane nAka upara paNa chUMdaNAM karAve che. teo potAnA gharamAM vaMzAvaLI rAkhe che. jIbha kADhIne svAgata karavuM e prakArano teomAM rivAja che. teonA zilpamAM paNa tamane jIbha kADhelI AkRtio jovA maLaze. mAorI zilpamAM baMne hAthanI phakta traNa traNa AMgaLI ja khullI batAvAya che. e traNa AMgaLIo janma, jIvana ane mRtyunI sUcaka che.' - pachI mArA tarapha joIne hone kahyuM, 'DaoN. zAha, eka vAta jANIne tamane bhAratIya lokone AnaMda thaze ke mArI loko jamatI vakhate jarA paNa eThuM mUkatA nathI. teo devadevIonI pUjA kare che ane mAnatA mAne che. teo vanadevatA 'tAne mAtA'mAM ane samudradevatA tAMgAromAM vizeSa zraddhA dharAve che.' udyAnamAM vacce taraNahoja hato. jemane emAM nahAvuM hoya te nahaI zake. jahone kahyuM, 'haju tamArI pAse aDadho kalAka che. tame pharavuM hoya to tyAM pharI zako cho. nahAvuM

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roTozuA hoya to navAI zako cho. barAbara sADA cha vAge lokanRtya zarU thaze. tame samayasara ahIM AvI jazo. ApaNA grupa mATe judI khurazIo rAkhelI che.' sADA cha vAge mAorI lokanRtyano kAryakrama cAlu thayo. mAorI yuvakayuvatIoe potAno viziSTa poSAka dhAraNa karyo hato. lAkaDAnI raMgaberaMgI bhUMgaLIo ane maNakAo dorImAM bharAvela. te temanI kamare khIcokhIca laTakatA hatA. e ja emanuM kaTivastra hatuM. temanA hAthamAM rahelI ekAda phUTa jeTalI lAMbI dorIne cheDe lUgaDAnA raMgaberaMgI daDA laTakatA hatA. jIbha kADhI teoe amAruM svAgata karyuM. mAorInAM gAmaThI DholanagArAM sAthe nRtya zarU thayuM. nRtya karatI vakhate teo daDA potAnI kamare evI rIte vIMjhatA ke bhaTakAya ane taDataDa avAja thAya. teo bulaMda svare gAtA, goLagoLa pharatA ane daDA vIMjhatA. vaLI jIbha halAvatA ane hAthanI AMgaLIomAM dhrujArI karatA. darekanA caherA upara smita ane ullAsa varatAtAM. daDAnAM traNa nRtya karyA pachI teoe dAMDiyArAsa cAlu karyA. dAMDiyA ApaNA hoya che tenA karatAM saheja lAMbA hatA ane vaccethI pakaDelA hatA. emanA dAMDyiArAsa jotAM jANe gujarAtamAM hoIe evuM lAge, bIjI eka viziSTatA teonI e hatI ke potapotAnA bheru sAthe ramatAM ramatAM dAMDiyAnI tAlabaddha rIte jhaDapathI adalAbadalI karI letA. AmAM polIna koNa che te zodhI kADhavA jahone amane kahyuM, badhAmAM UMcI, cabarAka, satata smita pharakAvatI ane tAlabaddha suMdara nRtya karatI trIseka varSanI yuvatI polIna hovI joIe e amArAM badhAnuM anumAna sAcuM paDyuM. bIjI rIte paNa e sAcuM hatuM. rAsa pUro thAya, paNa jatI vakhate ramatAM ramatAM potAnA dAMDiyA nAyaka ane nAyikAnA hAthamAM tAlabaddha rIte layapUrvaka pheMkatAM jAya. eka paNa dAMDiyo nIce na paDe. dAMDiyA jhIlIne ekaThA karanAra nAyikA te ja polIna. lokanRtyano kAryakrama pUro thayo. have bhojanano kAryakrama cAlu thavAno hato. eTalAmAM to udhAnamAM jadI judI jagyAe dhumADAnA goTegoTA nIkaLavA lAgyA. roToraAmAM na hoIe to Aga lAgI haze evo ja vahema paDe. ame kutUhalathI jotA hatA. dhumADo ocho thayo tyAM jaNAyuM ke hoTelanA veITaro udyAnamAM judI judI jagyAe jamInamAM karelAM moTAM bAkorAnAM DhAMkaNAM ughADI aMdarathI moTAM moTAM vAsaNo kADhatA hatA. emAM bhAtabhAtanI khAdyasAmagrI hatI. gaMdhakanI varALathI ene pakavavAmAM AvI hatI. amAre mATe e 'hAMgI'nI vAnagIo hatI. doDhaso jeTalA pravAsIo vizALa bhojanakhaMDamAM potapotAnA mukarara karelA Tebala para goThavAI gayA. pAMceka Tebala para vAnagIo mUkavAmAM AvI hatI. buphe paddhati hatI. paraMtu je Tabalano naMbara bolAya te TebalanA mahemAno ja vAnagI levA jAya jethI giradI ke dhakkAbakkI thAya nahi. zAkAhArI vAnagIomAM bhAta, makAI, kAkaDI, vaTANA, kobI,

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94 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana TAmeTAM vagere pacIseka cIjo haze. jene je joIe te le. enA mATe jemane masAlo joIe teo masAlo le. meM mArA niyamAnusAra anukULa vAnagIo pasaMda karI lIghI. mAorI yuvaka-yuvatIo lokanRtyano veza badalIne AvI gayAM hatAM ane pIrasavAmAM magna banI gayAM hatAM. jene je vAnagI, pINAM joItAM hoya te lAvI ApatAM. amArA Tebala pAsethI polIna pasAra thaI. jhone Tahuko karyo, 'polIna'. paNa te to jANe kazuM sAMbhaLyuM ja na hoya tema cAlI gaI. amane navAI lAgI. mukhya vyakti, netA, abhinetA sAthe potAne bahu ja gADha saMbaMdha che evAM baNagAM phUMkavAno keTalAkane zokha hoya che, paNa vAstavamAM ghaNI vAra evuM nathI hotuM. honanuM paNa evuM to nahi hoya ne ? mArA manamAM vicAra sphuryo, paNa utAvaLe abhiprAya bAMdhavo yogya na lAgyo. eTalAmAM polIna pharI amArA Tebala AgaLathI pasAra thaI. AMgaLInA izAre te mahemAnonI saMkhyAnI gaNatarI karatI hatI. jahone pharIthI bUma pADI, 'polIna'. paNa teNe to jANe kaMI oLakhatI ja na hoya evo dekhAva karyo eTaluM ja nahi, kaDaka avAje e jonane vaDhI, 'jotA nathI tame ke huM rokAyelI chuM ? mane DisTarba na karo.' jhona bhoTho paDyo. amane thayuM ke one polInanAM keTalAM badhAM vakhANa karyAM hatAM ane A bAI to jANe potAne kazI ja levAdevA nathI ema varte che. chaNako karIne vAta karatI te amane aprasanna ane avinayI lAgI. - amArAmAMthI koI bolyuM, 'Aje ene potAnA dhaNI sAthe jhaghaDo thayo haze, nahi to AvuM vartana kare nahi.' 'dhaNI sAthe jhaghaDo thayo hoya ema lAgatuM nathI. nRtya karatI vakhate te kevI prasanna hatI. eno cahero kevo maraka maraka thato hato.' koIke potAnuM avalokana jaNAvyuM. bIjuM koIka bolyuM, 'mi. hona, tamArI sAthe to kaMI aNabanAva nathI thayo ne ? juone, bIjA TebalanA mahemAno sAthe kevI hasIne vAta kare che !' koike vaLI kahyuM, 'mi. jhona, AvI uddhRta rIte vartanAra strI sAthe tamAre saMbaMdha na rAkhavo joIe evI mArI bhalAmaNa che.' koIke vaLI potAnI aMgata saMvedanAne ugratAthI darzAvatAM kahyuM, 'AvI bairI hoya to huM to tarata chUTAcheDA ApI dauM. meM be strIone evI rIte chUTAcheDA ApI dIdhA che. huM to jarA paNa calAvI levAmAM mAnato nathI.' koIke prazna karyo, 'mi. jona, mAorI bairAMonI AvI khAsiyata to nahi hoya ne ? keTalIka komanAM bairAMo puruSo karatAM paNa jabarAM hoya che.' jone kahyuM, 'nA, evuM nathI. A to koNa jANe kema Ama vartI tenI khabara na paDI. mane potAne bahu Azcarya thAya che. paNa tamArA vicAro ane anubhavo sAMbhaLIne mane thoDuM sAMtvana maLe che. mitro, polInanA AvA vartananI tamArA mana para jarA paNa

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roTomucyA 95 asara thavA dezo nahi. tame prasannatApUrvaka bhojana lejo. Aje bhale e risAI hoya, bIjI vAra AvIza tyAre ene manAvI laIza. strInuM caritra ja evuM hoya che. strIne oLakhavI e koI sahelI vAta nathI.' hAMgInA jamaNa pachI chelle AisakrIma ane pachI kaoNphI AvyAM. kaoNphI pItAM pItAM jone kahyuM, 'have thoDI vAramAM ApaNe basamAM besI ApaNI moTela para jaIzuM. tyAM rAta rokAvAnuM che, have tamAro abhiprAya pUchI lauM. polInane bolAvavAno eka vAra chello prayatna karI lauM?' 'nA, hAthe karIne pharIthI apamAnita thavAnI zI jarUra ?' koIke kahyuM. 'AvI khAIne to jiMdagIbhara bolAvavI na joIe.' bIjAe kahyuM. koIke vaLI judo abhiprAya Apyo, 'ApaNe badhA pravAsIo potapotAnA gAme cAlyA jaizuM. jonane to vAraMvAra ahIM AvavAnuM che, bhale bicAro eka vAra prayAsa karI jue.' eTalAmAM amArA kaoNphInA kapa uThAvavA polIna amArA Tebala para AvI pahoMcI. jone lADathI Tahuko karyo : 'po..lI..na.' polIne jhonanI sAme joyuM. eka kSaNa thaMbhI ane enI sAme tAkI rahI. pachI jorathI khaDakhaDATa hasatI bolI UThI, 'are jona, tame cho ? mApha karajo, mahemAnonuM dhyAna rAkhavAmAM huM magna hatI, eTale mAruM tamArA tarapha dhyAna na gayuM.' pachI eNe mahemAnone vinaMtI karI, 'mAre mATe jagyA karo, plIjha. mAre mArA vahAlA dosta honanI sAthe be miniTa besavuM joie. ene kadAca mAThuM lAgyuM haze.' jonanI bAjunA pravAsI AghA khasyA. polIna jonanI bAjumAM beThI. enA gALAmAM hAtha nAkhI bolI, 'jhona, tamane maLyA vagara mane kema game ?' pachI jahone amArA badhAMno paricaya karAvyo. badhAMnI sAthe eNe hAtha milAvyA. te khuzakhuzAla jaNAtI hatI. thoDI vAra besI eNe kahyuM, 'bhale... huM jAuM. hamaNAM huM kAmamAM rokAyelI chuM. paNa basa upara tamane badhAMne vaLAvavA jarUra AvIza. mArI rAha jojo.' polIna amArA khAlI kapa uThAvIne gaI ane potAnA kAmamAM parovAI gaI. kaMIka khinna thayeluM vAtAvaraNa pAchuM prasanna thaI gayuM. 'sAruM thayuM ke ApaNe ene chelle bolAvI. nahi to ApaNe eka khoTI chApa laIne jAta ane bicArIne anyAya thAta.' koIke enA mATe hamadardI batAvI. 'strIono koI bharoso nahi. ghaDIkamAM rAjI ane ghaDIkamAM khinna'. koIke potAnI philasUphI hAMkI.

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana 'mane to e nATakI lAgI. keTalIka abhimAnI strIono evo svabhAva hoya che. sAva sAmAnya strI paNa ATalI uddhata na thaI zake.' eka mahilA yajamAne abhiprAya uccAya. mAorI lokanRtya ane hAMgInA bhojanano amAro kAryakrama pUro thayo. mahemAno vidAya levA lAgyA. mAorI yuvayuvatI saune vidAya ApavA hoTelanA daravAjAne cheDe hArabaMdha UbhAM rahI gayAM. hasIne mAthuM namAvatAM hatAM. polIna paNa emAM UbhI hatI. amArA grupane bhAvabharI vidAya eNe laLIlaLIne ApI. ame sau basamAM goThavAyAM. badhAM ja AvI gayAM hatAM. jahona paNa potAnI sITamAM besI gayo hato. eNe kahyuM, "ApaNe polInanI rAha joIzuM? eNe pote kahyuM che eTale AvI to joIe. jo traNacAra miniTamAM na Ave to ApaNe jaIzuM. barAbara che ?' 'bhale thoDI vadhAre rAha jovI paDe, paNa ene AvavA do.' keTalAka bolyA. tyAM to polIna doDatI AvI. basanAM pagathiyAM caDI jahona pAse UbhI rahI. pachI mAIkamAM bolI, 'basa, tamArAM badhAMno AbhAra mAnavA ane guDa-bAya karavA AvI chuM. pharI nyUjhIlenDa Avo to jarUra amArI hoTelanI mulAkAta lezo. tamArA gAIDa to keTalA badhA maLatAvaDA, hasamukhA ane ramUjI svabhAvanA che. mArA to e khAsa mitra che. have tame badhAM jAo cho tyAre mAre mAtra ATalo ja khulAso karavo che. tamane badhAne jahona sAthenuM zarUAtanuM mAruM vartana gamyuM nahi hoya, kharuM ne ?' "sAce ja.' tamane mAre mATe ane strIo mATe jAtajAtanA vicAro rUkyAM ho, kharuM ne ?' 'barAbara.' e mATe huM tamArAM badhAMnI mAphI mAguM chuM, paNa huM khAtarI ApuM chuM ke tame bIjI vAra ahIM Avazo tyAre paNa huM e pramANe ja vartIza." vartIza ke nahi vatuM ?' polInanI bhUla sudhAravA badhAM bolI UThyAM. hasatI hasatI e bolI, vartIza, vartAza ane vartIza, kema hona, barAbara che ne ?' 'barAbara che', hone kahyuM. jahone samajyA vagara TApazI purAvI hoya ema lAgyuM. bolavAmAM kaMI gerasamaja thatI amane lAgI. koIke kahyuM, 'jahona, tamane kaMI svamAna jevuM che ke nahi? polIna zuM bole che te barAbara samajAyuM ?' tyAM baMne khaDakhaDATa hasI paDyAM. polIne kahyuM, "huM pharI vAra paNa e pramANe ja vartIza, kAraNa ke mAruM ane jahonanuM e goThaveluM nATaka hoya che.'

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roTo temanuM khaDakhaDATa hasavAnuM cAlu rahyuM. ame badhAM paNa Azcarya sahita khaDakhaDATa hasI paDyAM. tALIonA gaDagaDATa thayA. polIne vidAya laIne gaI. ame bolyAM, "are jhona, tame to kamAla cho. Ajano prasaMga to kAyama yAda rahI jaze.' jahone kahyuM, 'tame amAruM kAvataruM pakaDI zako cho ke nahi te jovA ane strIo mATenA tamArA vividha abhiprAyo ane aMgata saMvedanAo jANavA mATe meM Ama karyuM hatuM.' amArI basa hoTela choDI moTela tarapha cAlavA lAgI.

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15 tAkAmatsu ane ritsurina pArka deza tarIke jApAna nAno che, paraMtu prAkRtika sauMdaryanI daSTie te ghaNo raLiyAmaNo che. vastuonI suMdara kalAtmaka goThavaNI e jApAnanI prajAnI khAsiyata che. svacchatA ane suMdaratAno sAMskArika samanvaya jApAnanI prajAnA lohImAM supere UtarI Avelo jovA maLaze. jApAnI lokone potAnuM nAnakaDuM ghara hoya topaNa enA ekAda khUNAmAM naisargika manohara racanA karavAnuM game che. kyAreka to nAnuM sarakhuM satata vahetuM jharaNuM athavA nAnA nAnA lIsA, goLa ke karakarA paththaro upara thaIne nIce paDatA pANInI racanA paNa teo temAM kare che. moTAM vRkSonI nAnI jIvaMta AkRti (bonsAI) karavAnI vaijJAnika paddhati paNa jApAnI lokoe saikAothI vikasAvelI che. phUla--DALakhI-pAMdaDAMnI manohara racanAnI kalA (ikebAnA) paNa jApAnanI AgavI che. udyAnamAM goLamaToLa kAMkarAo ane paththarone zveta retImAM kalAtmaka rIte goThavI sthaLanA sauMdaryamAM abhivRddhi karavAnI sUjha paNa temanI pAse sarasa hoya che. jApAna tenAM udyAno mATe jANIto deza che. jeo jApAnanA bagIcAomAM phelA hoya teo anya koI dezamAM paNa jApAnI zailIthI bagIco karavAmAM Avyo hoya to te tarata pArakhI zake che. vahetA jharaNAnAM pANImAM eka kinArethI bIje kinAre javA mATe vacamAM goLa paththarone sIdhI lITIe goThavavAne badale tene evo naisargika vaLAMka teo Apaze ke je kudaratI lAge ane chatAM atyaMta kalAtmaka hoya. udyAnakalA e jApAnano atyaMta priya viSaya che. keTalAya loko e viSayamAM pAraMgata thayelA jovA maLaze. TaoNkiyo, kayoTo, oNsAkA, niko, hirozimA vagere sthaLe AvelAM ramaNIya udyAno meM joyAM hatAM. paraMtu zikoku TApumAM Avelo suprasiddha , isurina pArka meM joyo na hato. e jovAnI mArI ghaNA vakhatathI icchA hatI. I.sa. 1968mAM mAre jApAna javAnuM thayuM tyAre me mArA mitra sAkAyorIne patra lakhIne jaNAvyuM hatuM ke 'mArI icchA jApAnano mazahUra 'risurina pArka' jovAnI che. ane jo banI zake to tenA pravAsanuM Ayojana karavAnI bhalAmaNa che.' eTale temaNe te pramANe pravAsa goThavyo hato. ritsurina pArka jovA mATe najIkanuM moTuM zahera te tAkAmatsu che. madhya jApAnamAM, zikoku TApumAM dariyAkinAre AveluM A eka nAnuM zahera che. have to eno ghaNo vikAsa 98

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tAkAmansa ane riphurina pArka thayo che, paraMtu e vakhate to te eka nAnuM zAMta nagara hatuM. zaheramAM bahu hoTelo na hatI. je be-cAra hoTelo hatI te paNa pramANamAM sAva nAnI hatI ane bIjI traNa-cAra nAnI hoTela jApAnI paddhatinI hatI. osAkAthI sTImaramAM besI ame sAMje tAkAmasu UtarI tAkAmasuM' nAmanI hoTelamAM pahoMcyA. hoTela nAnI hatI, paNa nAnA zaheranA pramANamAM sArI hatI. hoTelamAM pahoMcIne risepzana kAunTara upara sAkAyorIe potAnuM nAma ApyuM. risepzanisTa amane eka rUmanI cAvI ApI. sAkAyorIe ene kahyuM, "ame be jaNa chIe. amArA mATe ame be rUma buka karAvI che.' risepzanisTe kahyuM, mApha karajo, ame tamArA mATe eka ja rUma buka karI che. be bhAIo Avaze evo amane saMdezo maLyo che, paNa baMnene alaga alaga rUma joIe evo saMdezo maLyo nathI. eTale ame tamArA mATe eka ja rUma buka karI che.' sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'emAM kaMI gerasamaja thaI lAge che, paNa have amane bIjI eka rUma Apo.' risepzanisTe kahyuM, "ame dilagIra chIe ke amArI pAse bIjI eke rUma khAlI nathI.' meM sAkAyorIne kahyuM, 'ApaNA baMne mATe jo eka ja rUma rAkhI hoya te te eka rUmamAM rahevAmAM mane vAMdho nathI. eTalo khoTo kharca karavAnI kaMI jarUra nathI.' paNa sAkAyorIe Agraha rAkhyo ke baMne jaNa mATe judI judI rUma maLatI hoya to te rIte ja rahevuM che. meM kahyuM, 'tame mane mahemAna tarIke bahu mahattva nahi Apo to cAlaze.' paNa sAkAyorIe te vAta kabUla na rAkhI. emaNe risepzanisTane kahyuM, 'tAkAmasuM zaheramAM bIjI koI hoTelamAM tapAsa karIne amane be svataMtra rUmanI vyavasthA karAvI Apo. ahIM tamArA rUmano je cArja thato haze e to ame ApI daIzuM.' risepzanisTa phona para phona joDyA, paNa dareka ThekANethI eka ja javAba Avyo ke eka paNa rUma khAlI nathI. eka ja rUmamAM rahevAnuM nachUTake thayuM, paNa e sAkAyorIne gamyuM nahi. emanuM moDhuM paDI gayuM. cAvI laI ame amArA rUmamAM pahoMcIne sAmAna mUkayo. amArI pAse phakta eka eka nAnI baeNga ja hatI. jApAnanA pravAsamAM bahu sAmAna levAnI AvazyakatA nahi. jApAnanI hoTelanA rUmamAM paheravA ane sUvA mATeno kimono Dresa, pagamAM paheravAnAM slIpara, nahAvA mATe sAbu ane TaoNvela, zempa ane heraDrAyara, dAMta sApha karavA mATe eka divasa cAle evuM braza ane nAnI TUthapesTa, hajAmata mATe eka vakhata vAparIne pheMkI devAno astro, bUTane pAliza karavA mATenI sagavaDa, nizcita samaye UThavA mATe elArma ghaDiyALa vagere ghaNI suvidhA hoya che. ThaMDA pradezane kAraNe kapaDAM bahumelo thatAM nathI. eTale ekAda divasanA pravAsa mATe to ghaNA loko bIjI jeDa kapaDAM paNa sAthe letAM nathI. ,

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' pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana hAtha-moM dhoI ame taiyAra thayA. sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'DaoN. zAha, A nAnA gAmamAM tamane zAkAhArI vAnagI maLavAnI thoDIka muzkelI to raheze ja.' meM kahyuM, 'mane bahu vAMdho nahi Ave. jo cA-dUdha, breDa, bhAta ane phaLa vageremAMthI je kaMI maLe to eTalAthI mAre cAlI raheze.' ame hoTelanI resTorAMmAM gayA. cA maLatI hatI, paraMtu te dUdhavALI nahotI. dUdha vagaranI kALI cA (pAnamAM evI cA vadhAre pivAya che ane ene ko cA kahe che) lIMbu sAthe hatI. veiTarane pUchatAM jANavA maLyuM ke resTorAmAM breDa nathI, koI phaLa nathI ane je bhAta che te mane khape evA nathI, kAraNa ke temAM jhINI jhINI mAchalI nAkhelI che. sAkAyorIe mane kahyuM, 'A resTorAMmAM to tamAre lAyaka kazuM maLatuM nathI. paraMtu ApaNe bahAra jaIne bIje kayAMka tapAsa karIe.' ame bajAramAM nIkaLyA. dukAnovALI mukhya sTrITanI aMdara ghaNe dUra sudhI ame AMTo mAryo. keTalIka dukAnomAM ane nAnI resTorAmAM pUchaparacha karI, paraMtu koI paNa ThekANe breDa, phaLa ke bIjuM kazuM mAre lAyaka khAvAnuM maLatuM na hatuM. sAkAyorIe jApAnI paddhatinI bIjI hoTelomAM phona karIne pUchyuM, paraMtu koI paNa ThekANe dUdha sudhdhAM maLatuM na hatuM. ekaMdare jApAnI loko 66 levAne bahu TevAyelA nathI. dudhALAM Dhora paNa jApAnamAM khAsa nathI. evI eka mAnyatA che ke dUdha pInArI prajAne hAthepage ruvAMTI thAya che. jApAnI lokone ekaMdare hAthepage ruvAMTI hotI nathI. 100 ame ghaNubadhe ThekANe rakhaDIne AvyA, paNa mAre lAyaka kazuM khAvAnuM maLyuM nahi. kaMI jarUra nahi paDe ema samajIne oNsAkAthI kazuM lIdhuM paNa nahotuM. resTorAMmAM sAkAyorIe potAnuM bhojana lIdhuM. meM phakata lIMbuvALI cA pIdhI. sAkAyorIne ghaNo aphsosa thayo. meM kahyuM, 'tame mArI phikara karazo nahi. huM bhUkhyo rahevAne TevAyelo chuM.' sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'DaoN. zAha, bhUkhyA peTe tamane UMdha kema Avaze ?' meM kahyuM, 'mane bhUkhyA peTe paNa sArI UMgha AvI jaze. ame jaina loko enAthI TevAyelA hoie chIe.' sAkAyorIe jamI lIdhuM eTale ame amArI rUmamAM gayA. AkhA divasanA pravAsathI thAkelA hatA. vaLI bajAramAM ame khUba rakhaDyA hatA. eTale pathArImAM paDazuM evA UMghI jaIzuM ema lAgatuM hatuM. sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'DaoN. zAha judI rUma rAkhavA mATeno mAro Agraha zA mATe che te tame jANo cho ?' meM kahyuM, 'nahAvA-dhovAmAM sagavaDa rahe eTalA mATe ja hoya ne ?' sAkAyorIe kahyuM, "e to kharuM, paNa khAsa to e mATe ke mAre lIdhe tamane agavaDa na paDe evI mArI icchA hatI.' meM kahyuM, 'tamArA lIdhe mane kazI ja agavaDa rahevAnI nathI. tame sigareTa dhaNI pIo cho e huM jANuM chuM ane eno dhumADo mane gamato nathI e tame jANo cho, paraMtu rAtre sigareTa pIvAno prazna ja kyAM che ?' sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'eTale ja mAre khulAso karavo che. rAtanA paNa huM traNacAra vakhata UThIne sigareTa pIuM chuM.' meM kahyuM, 'teno vAMdho nahi. eka rAtano savAla che ne ? paMkho

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tAkAmatsu ane risurina pArka 1 cAlu rAkhIzuM. dhumADo tarata nIkaLI jaze.' sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'sigareTanI to huM tamane bahu takalIpha nahi ApuM, paraMtu jyAre have eka ja rUmamAM sAthe rAta rahevAno prasaMga Avyo che tyAre mAre mArI aMgata khAsiyatano khulAso karI devo joIe. huM UMghamAM moTethI ghaNo baDabaDATa karuM chuM. ethI tamArI UMghamAM khalela to paDaze ja.' meM vAtane haLavI banAvavA kahyuM, 'tame bhale UMdhamAM bolo, paNa tame je jApAnI bhASAmAM bolazo te huM samajI nahi zakuM. eTale tame je kaMI bolyA hazo te huM tamArI patnIne jaNAvI daiza evI koi bIka rAkhavAno prazna raheto nathI.' sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'enI mane ciMtA nathI, kAraNa ke huM je boluM chuM te mArI patnI paNa samajI zakatI nathI. mAruM babaDavAnuM aspaSTa hoya che.' meM kahyuM, 'tamArI patnIne tamAruM boleluM na samajAya e to jANe samajyA, paNa UMghamAM bolavAne kAraNe tamArI patnInI UMghamAM khalela nathI pahoMcatI ?' 'pahoMce ja che', sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'joke have ghaNI TevAI gaI che, paraMtu koi koi vakhata huM jyAre bahu moTethI baDabaDATa karato hou tyAre te bIjI rUmamAM jaIne sUI jAya che.' AkhA divasanA pravAsathI ame thAkelA hatA. eTale UMghavAnI taiyArI karI. rUmamAM be palaMga bAjubAjumAM hatA. sUtAM pahelAM sAkAyorIe potAnI vicitra Adata mATe pharI eka vakhata mArI kSamA mAgI. meM kahyuM, 'AkhI rAta mAre jAgavuM paDe topaNa mane vAMdho nathI. AkhI rAta satata jAgIne saLaMga DyUTI karavAno mane lazkarI kaeNmpano anubhava che. vaLI huM koIka vakhata rAtre jhena(dhyAna)mAM paNa besuM chuM. eTale tame mArI bilakula phikara karazo nahi.' sAkAyorI thoDI vAramAM ghasaghasATa UMghI gayA. huM paNa prArthanA karIne sUI gayo. bhUkhyA peTe paNa mane tarata UMgha AvI gaI. paraMtu mArI e UMdha vadhAre samaya TakI nahi. rAtanA agiyAreka vAgyA haze, tyAM to sAkAyorIe UMghamAM moTethI baDabaDATa cAlu karyo. emano avAja eTalo moTo hato ke bAjumAM sUnAranI UMghamAM avazya khalela paDe. A vAtanI pahelethI jo khabara na hoya to rUmanI aMdara acAnaka koNa ghUsI gayuM che ane zI dhamAla thaI rahI che te samajAya nahi. thoDI vAranA baDabaDATa pachI sAkAyorI zAMta thaI gayA. emanAM nasakorAM jorathI bolavA lAgyAM. meM pathArImAM paDyA paDyA UMgha ANavAno prayatna karyo. rAtre UMgha na AvatI hoya to gheTAM gaNavAnI paddhati jANItI che, paNa mane to gheTAM gaNavAne badale navakAramaMtra gaNavAnI Teva che. thoDo vakhata e rIte navakAra gaNyA tyAM citta nidrAdhIna thayuM. paNa tyAM to sAkAyorIno baDabaDATa pharI cAlu thayo. koI koI zabdo to tArasvare bolAtA hatA. AvA saMjogomAM UMgha AvavAnI zakayatA have jaNAtI nahotI. mane thayuM ke pathArImAM jAgatA paDyA rahevuM enA karatAM to stuti, jApa, dhyAna vagere karavAM te vadhu yogya thaze. meM UThIne mAruM Asana laIne eka

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102 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana khUNAmAM besIne stuti, jApa vagere cAlu karyA. mane UMghavA nathI maLatuM evo mane koI saMtApa ke thAka nahoto. mArA manamAM sAkAyorI pratye koI cIDa paNa nahotI, balake sahAnubhUti hatI. mArA mATe to A eka prakArano navo ja anubhava hato ane te paNa eka rAtane mATe. sAkAyorIne mATe to A jIvanabharano roga hato. ane emanAM patnIne mATe to A kAyamano trAsa hato. emano vicAra karatAM mane mArI takalIpha kazI ja na lAgI. prasannatApUrvaka huM mArA dhyAnamAM ane jApamAM lIna banI gayo. rAtri daramiyAna sAta-ATha vakhata sAkAyorIe A rIte UMghamAM baDabaDATa karyo haze. vacce ekAda vakhata pathArImAM beThA thaIne emaNe sigareTa paNa saLagAvI. emaNe joyuM ke huM eka khUNAmAM dhyAnamAM beTho chuM ane huM kazuM bolavAno nathI. eTale teo tarata pAchA oDhIne sUI gayA. Ama karatAM savAranA pAMceka vAgavA AvyA haze. have jo huM aDadho kalAka sUI jaIza to tarata UMgha AvI jaze ema mAnIne huM pathArImAM paDyo ane thoDI ja vAramAM ghasaghasATa UMghI gayo. sADA cha vAge mArI AMkha UghaDI. te daramiyAna sAkAyorIe kaMIka baDabaDATa karyo hato ke nahi tenI mane khabara paDI nahi. te vize sAkAyorIne puchAya paNa nahi. pUchIe to sAkAyorI kevI rIte sAco javAba ApI zake ? pote UMghamAM baDabaDe che evuM bhAna kayA mANasane baDabaDatI vakhate hoI zake ? savAra thatAM ja snAna vagerethI paravArIne ame resTorAMmAM gayA. sAkAyorIe nAsto karyo. mArA mATe to lIMbuvALI kALI cA sivAya bIjuM kazuM khape tevuM na hatuM. mane e jAtanI cA bhAve che eTale takalIpha nahotI. pachI ame TekasImAM besI ritsurina pArkamAM pahoMcyA. ritsurina pArka jApAnano eka ghaNo vizALa ane suprasiddha pArka che. jUnA vakhatamAM e vistAramAM rahetA koI eka moTA umarAvanI 134 ekara jeTalI jagyAmAM moTI vasAhata hatI. vakhata jatAM A vizALa jagyA sarakAra hastaka AvI ane sarakAre tyAM eka sarasa pArkanuM Ayojana karyuM. ritsurina pArka eTalo moTo ane suMdara che ke e jotAM dharAIe nahi. Akho pArka barAbara jovA jaie to thAkayA vagara rahIe nahi. A pArkamAM je mahattvanI judI judI racanAo karavAmAM AvI che te ame nihALI. pArkamAM keTalAMka vRkSo to bahu UMcA, ghaTAdAra ane saikAo jUnAM che. ThekaThekANe raMgaberaMgI puSpo khIlelAM hatAM. keTaleka ThekANe nAnAM taLAva jevI racanAo paNa karavAmAM AvI hatI. kyAMka kyAMka pANImAM ADAavaLA paththaro goThavIne karelI UMcI-nIcI ane vAMkI-cUMkI pagathI kalAtmaka chatAM naisargika lAge evI hatI. jApAnIonI udyAnakalAnI A eka viziSTatA che. pArkamAM paNa keTaleka sthaLe pakSIono kalarava thato hato. nAnAM nAnAM haraNo chUTAM pharatAM hatAM. pArkamAM pharatAM pharatAM ame eka sthaLe AvyA. tyAM eka nAnosarakho pula banAvavAmAM Avyo -

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tAkAmasu ane risurina pArka 103 hato. nIce UMDuM pANI hatuM. emAM ghaNI mAchalIo dekhAtI hatI. keTalAka chokarAo pula uparathI nIce pANImAM mAchalIo mATe khAvAnuM pheMkatA hatA. e jovAmAM ame tallIna thayA. evAmAM sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'DaoN. zAha, tame ahIM UbhA rahejo, huM tarata ja AvuM chuM.' pANImAM khAvAno nAno sarakho TukaDo paDatAM cAre bAjuthI ekasAthe cAlIsa-pacAsa mAchalIo kevI dhase che ane koI eka nasIbadAra mAchalI e TukaDo potAnA moDhAmAM laI le che ane AthI bhAgI jAya che, e dazya jovA jevuM hoya che. khAvAnuM meLavanAra mAchalI pAsethI paDAvI levA koI mAchalI pAchaLa paDatI nathI. mAchalIomAM aMdara aMdara koI mArAmArI thatI nathI. niSphaLa thayelI mAchalIo pharI pAchI Amatema ghUmavA lAge che. A dazya jovAmAM huM mazagUla banI gayo hato. mane vicAra Avyo ke khAvAno eka TukaDo pANImAM paDatAM pacAsa ke somAMthI ekAda mAchallIne ja khAvAnuM maLe che. paNa bIjI bAju A mAchalIone Akho divasa ja rojeroja keTalAya pravAsIo khavarAvatA hoya che, eTale mAchalIone bhUkhe maravAno prazna to raheto ja nathI. jyAM AvuM khAvAnuM na maLatuM hoya tyAM paNa mAththIo pANImAMthI potAno AhAra meLavI le che. vastuta: ahIM to vadhu paDatuM khAvAthI mAchalIo hRSTapuSTa banelI dekhAtI hatI. bhAratamAM gaMgA ane bIjI nadIomAM ke sarovaromAM evAM keTalAMya pavitra sthaLo che ke jyAM mAchalIone khavaDAvavAno rivAja che. tyAM AvI ja hRSTapuSTa mAchalIo jovA maLaze.) evAmAM sAkAyorI eka kAgaLanI kothaLImAM kazuMka lAvyA. temanA caherA upara prasannatA hatI. mArA hAthamAM te paDIkuM mUkyuM ane kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, A tamArA mATe che.' meM kothaLImAM joIne kahyuM, 'oha! mAchalIo mATenAM A biskiTa che. cAlo, ApaNe khavaDAvIe' ema kahIne AMgaLI jeTalA jADA ane veta jeTalA lAMbA sTikanA prakAranAM e biskiTanA TukaDA karIne meM mAchalIone mATe nAkhavA mAMDyA. sAkAyorIe kahyuM, 'DaoN. zAha, tame mArI vAta samajyA nahi. A biskiTa huM mAchalIo mATe nathI lAvyo, tamArA mATe lAvyo chuM. mAchalIo mATenAM A cokhAnAM biskiTa che, zuddha zAkAhArI che. eTale tame khAI zakazo. tame gaI kAla sAMjathI kazuM khAdhuM nathI, eTale mane tamArI bahu ciMtA thatI hatI, paNa sadbhAgye A cokhAnAM biskiTa maLI gayAM eTale huM rAjI thaI gayo.' meM sAkAyorIne kahyuM, "mane zAkAhArI khAvAnuM nathI maLyuM ane huM bhUkhyo chuM e sAcuM, paraMtu A biskiTa vecanArA pheriyAo to mAchalIo mATe te vece che. eTale te biskiTa khAvAnuM mane gamaze nahi. mArA khAvAthI mAchalIono khorAka ocho thaI jaze ane teo bhUkhe TaLavaLaze evuM nathI. paraMtu A biskiTa mAchalIo mATe ja banAvAya che ane temane ja khavaDAvAya che. eTale huM e khAu emAM mane aucityabhaMga lAge che.

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104 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe -- utarAlekhana eTale bhale huM bhUkhyo rahuM, ATalA kalAka bhUkhyo chuM to thoDAka kalAka vadhAre, paraMtu A biskiTa mAre gaLe Utaraze nahi." ame e biskiTa mAchalIone khavaDAvI dIdhAM. biskiTanA TukaDA karIne te nAkhavAno ane pANImAM cAre bAjuthI mAchalIone TukaDA tarapha dhasatI jovAno AnaMda ame mANyo. risurina pArka joIne ame hoTela upara pAchA AvyA. sAkAyorIe potAnuM bhojana lIdhuM. meM cA pIdhI. pachI tyAMthI sAmAna laIne tAkAmasunA baMdare pahoMcI ame osAkA jatI sTImara pakaDI. nAnA nAnA ghaNAbadhA TApuovALI khADImAMthI pasAra thatI sTImara osAkA AvI pahoMcI. oNsAkAmAM eka hoTelamAM ame UtaryA eTale sAkAyorIe sauthI paheluM kAma mane eka resTorAMmAM laI jaIne zAkAhArI bhojana karAvavAnuM karyuM. Ama AkhI rAtanA jAgaraNa pachI bhUkhyA peTe vizALa rinjarina pArka dharAIne jovAno mAro AnaMdAnubhava judA ja prakArano rahyo hato !

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16 tAkaMdamAM soviyeTa yuniyananA A vakhatanA amArA pravAsamAM pahelo mukAma ujhabekistAnanA pATanagara tAkaMda (ujhabeka uccAra pramANe tokenta athavA tAkenta)mAM hato. dilhIthI eNra inDiyAnA vimAnamAM savAre lagabhaga cha vAge ame UpaDyA. traNa kalAkamAM to ame tArakaMda pahoMcI gayA. sUryodayano samaya thaI gayo hato eTale Akhe raste amane vimAnanI bArImAMthI pUrvAkAzamAM kSitija upara sUryodaya dekhAyA karyo kAraNa ke bhAratanA samaya karatAM tAskaMdanA samaya aDhI kalAka vahelo hato. amAruM vimAna dilhIthI uttare himAlayanI parvatamALA oLaMgI ujhabekistAna pahoMcyuM hatuM. hajAro varSathI anullaMghanIya manAtI himAlayanI parvatamALAne ame eka kUdakAmAM (vimAnamAM) ullaMghI gayA. duniyAnA sarvocca zikhara evaresTathI paNa UMce A amAro kUdako hato. vijJAna kudarata upara kevo vijaya meLavatuM rahyuM che ! himAlayanI parvatamALA pachI kAyayajhalakumanuM raNa dekhAyuM. duniyAnAM moTA raNomAMnuM A eka raNa che. cAre bAju seMkaDo mAIla sudhI nAnA-moTA DuMgaro para patharAyelI sUkI retALa dharatI vimAnamAMthI dekhAtI hatI. arabI samudra, hiMdI mahAsAgara ane baMgALanA upasAgaramAMthI AvatAM vAdaLAM varasatAM varasatAM chelle badhA ja himAlayamAM varasI jAya che. pariNAme himAlayanI pAchaLanI uttaranI bAju varasAdanuM nAmanizAna na maLe. lIlA ghAsanuM eka taNakhaluM paNa na UgyuM hoya. A raNanuM dRzya najare nihALIe to lAge ke page cAlIne jema himAlaya na ullaMghI zakAya tema A raNa paNa na ullaMghI zakAya. na amAruM vimAna tANaMdanA vimAnI mathake UtaryuM. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM kasTamanI cakAsaNI ghaNI kaDaka thatI. ethI vAra lAgI, paNa amAre pakSe badhuM vyavasthita hatuM eTale kazo vAMdho na Avyo. pravAsIonA amArA grupanI bhAratIya gAiDa hatI pArasI yuvatI kumArI rozana khaMbhAtI. te ghaNI hoziyAra, jANakAra ane cabarAka hatI. yuropa, amerikA, jApAna, siMgApura vagere dezomAM gAiDa tarIke te ghaNIvAra jai AvI hatI. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM tAkaMdamAM te pahelIvAra AvatI hatI. AvI taka potAne maLI eno ene ghaNo ja AnaMda hato. videzonA pravAsonA anubhavane lIdhe te ghaNI kAbela thaI gaI hatI. enA avAjamAM raheluM abhimAna ane jabarApaNuM thoDA paricayamAM ja jaNAI Ave evuM hatuM. koIkane to e kaThe evuM paNa hatuM. ot

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106 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana amane eNrapaoNrTa para levA AvanAra ujhabeka gAIDanuM nAma hatuM mumina athavA momina. paricita lAge evuM e nAma hatuM. te muslima hato. ujhabekistAnanI badhI vastI musalamAna hatI. paNa soviyeTa yuniyanamAM dharmane lagabhaga tilAMjali apAI hatI te ahIM ujhabekistAnamAM paNa jovA maLI. ame basamAM beThA. 1966nA bhAre vinAzaka dharatIkaMpa pachI pharI vaselA tAzkedamAM raLiyAmaNA rastAo parathI pasAra thatI amArI basa hoTela para AvI pahoMcI. hoTelanuM nAma paNa "ujhabekistAna' hatuM. tAzkedanI sauthI moTI hoTelomAMnI te eka hatI. tAnkaMda zahera bhAratavAsIomAM jeTaluM jANItuM che eTaluM duniyAnA bIjA ghaNA dezomAM nahi hoya. bhArata ane pAkistAna vacce thayelA yuddhamAM soviyeTa yuniyananI madhyasthIthI bhArate suleha karI hatI. sulehamaMtraNA mATenI beThaka tAnkaMdamAM yojAI hatI. bhAratanA te samayanA vaDApradhAna zrI lAlabahAdura zAstrI emAM bhAga levA tAzkeda gayA hatA. maMtraNAne aMta, bhArata pAchA AvatAM pahelAM, AgalI rAtre akaLa saMjogomAM emanuM acAnaka avasAna thayuM. lAlabahAdura zAstrInA mRtyuno bheda sattAvAra rIte kyAreya ukelAyo nahi. mAtra anumAno thayAM kya. paraMtu e AghAtajanaka, ghero zoka janmAvanArI ghaTanAe tAnkaMdane duniyAnA nakazAmAM jANItuM karI dIdhuM. tAnkaMda vagovAyuM, paNa potAnI apakIrtinuM sATuM vALavA eNe prayatna karyo. tAzkedamAM eka sthaLe lAlabahAdura zAstrInI ardhapratimA mUkavAmAM AvI che ane eka rastAne lAlabahAdura zAstrI sTrITa' evuM nAma ApavAmAM AvyuM che. lAlabahAdura zAstrInI A ghaTanA ApaNane bhAratavAsIone jeTalI sparze teTalI tAkaMdavAsIone na sparze e dekhItuM che. eTale ja khuda tAnkaMdanA ghaNA rahevAsIone A pratimA ke sTrITa kyAM AvyAM che tenI khabara paNa nathI. Azare pacIsa lAkhanI vastI dharAvatuM tAzkeda madhya (Central) eziyAnuM moTAmAM moTuM zahera che. raNavistAramAM ciracika nAmanI nAnI nadI pAse AvelA phaLadrupa pradeza (Oasis - raNadvIpa)mAM TheTha sAtamA saikAthI vaseluM tAzkeda aitihAsika zahera che. kapAsa ane sUko mevo e enuM mukhya utpAdana rahyuM che. vepArI mathaka tarIke ane saMskAra kendra tarIke tAzkedanI khyAti jUnA vakhatathI eTalI badhI rahI che ke AThamA saikAmAM Araboe caDAI karI enA upara varcasva jamAvyuM hatuM. teramA saikAmAM moMgoliyAthI AvIne caMgejhakhAne ene jItI lIdhuM hatuM. caudamA saikAmAM taimuralene eno kabajo lIdho hato. 186pamAM raziyAe ene potAnAmAM bheLavI dIdhuM hatuM. Ama tAkaMda upara paDozI rAjyono DoLo rahyA karyo e enI mahattA darzAve che. prAcIna samayathI ujhabeka saMskRti ane saMskAranA kendra tarIke khyAti pAmeluM tAtkaMda vartamAna samayamAM paNa keLavaNInA kSetre pragatizIla nagarI gaNAya che.

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tArakaMdamAM 107 tAnkaMdanA nagaradarzananA kAryakramamAM ame prAcIna kalAkRtionuM saMgrahasthAna joyuM, graMthAlayo joyAM, lenina sphaTveramAM ane phrenDazipa sphaTveramAM keTalAMka aitihAsika sthaLo tathA smArako joyAM, lAlabahAdura zAstrInI pratimA joI. sAMje ame eka raziyana bele paNa joI AvyA. keTalAka bhUgarbha relavemAM paNa pharI AvyA. jamIne ame amArI rUmamAM beThA hatA. AkhA divasano thAka lAgyo hato eTale sUvAnI taiyArI karatA hatA. tyAM bAraNA upara Takoro paDyo. eka bhAI AvyA hatA. sAthe eka bhAratIya yuvAna paNa hato. e bhAIe kahyuM, 'A bhAIno nIce lonjamAM ja paricaya thayo. teo ahIM ja rahe che. inDiyAthI ahIM bhaNavA AvyA che. teo madada karI zake ema che. ahIM baeNnkamAM eka DaoNlarano pUro eka rUbala (raziyana calaNa) paNa maLato nathI. teo ApaNane eka DaoNlaranA ATha rUbala apAvI zake tema che. badhI javAbadArI emanI.' meM kahyuM, "mAro niyama che ke A rIte gerakAyade videzI calaNa kyAreya levuM nahi. emAM paNa videzamAM AvuM sAhasa karavAnI salAha huM koIne na ApuM. pachI to jevI jenI marajI.' ame nA pADI eTale e bhAI pelA yuvAnane laIne bIjA pravAsIonI rUmamAM gayA. keTalAke DaoNlara e rIte vaTAvyA paNa kharA. jyAMthI vadhu dhana maLatuM hoya te tarapha kheMcAvAnI vRtti manuSyamAM sahaja rIte paDelI che. be divasa tAkaMda ane enI AsapAsanA pradeza joyA pachI trIje divase savAre amane sUkA mevAnI mArakeTamAM laI javAno kAryakrama hato. A bAjunA sUkA pradezamAM sUko mevo jAtajAtane thAya che. mArakeTamAM vepArIo jamIna para moTA moTA DhagalA pAtharIne beThA hoya. chApAMnA kAgaLamAM paDIkAM bAMdhIne Ape. bhAva paNa bahu sasto. giradIno pAra nahi. jovA jevuM gAmaThI dazya lAge. amArI basa mArkeTanA nAkA pAse UbhI rahI. momina amane badhAne dorI javAno hato. ame UtaratA hatA tyAM be ujhabekI mANasoe IzAro karyo. eka DaoNlaranA dasa rabala teo ApatA hatA. amArA grupamAMthI be jaNe jhaDapathI rUbala lIdhA ane mArkeTa tarapha cAlyA. soviyeTa yuniyana jevA kaDaka rASTramAM paNa mANaso videzI calaNano gerakAyade vepAra kare e joIne amane Azcarya thayuM. dhana meLavavAnI adamya vRtti mANasa pAse kayAre khoTuM kAma karAvaze te kahI zakAya nahi. jema jema AMtararASTrIya vyavahAra vadhato gayo che tema tema videzI mudrAno sattAvAra ane bekAnUna vepAra paNa vadhato cAlyo che. amArA pravAsI grupamAM eka dakSiNa bhAratIya sajajana paNa hatA. teo khoTuM aMgrejI bolatA ane te bolavAnI emanI laDhaNa paNa dakSiNa bhAratIya prakAranI hatI.

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14 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana videzanA pravAse teo pahelI vAra nIkaLyA hatA. teo prakRtie svArthI hatA ane paisAnI gaNatarIvALA hatA. eTale emanI sAthe bhaLavA koI rAjIkhuzIthI taiyAra thatuM nahi. misTara suMdarama emanuM nAma hatuM, paNa keTalAka emane bolAvatI vakhate majAkamAM 'misTara asuMdara evI rIte bolatA ke emane khabara na paDe, paNa samajanAra samajI jAya. mi. suMdaram basamAM chellI beThaka para beThA hatA. sUkA mevAnA bajAramAMthI teo kazuM kharIdavA IcchatA nahotA eTale basamAM ja besI rahyA hatA. paNa jevI khabara paDI ke eka DaoNlaranA AThane badale dasa rUbala maLe che ke tarata emaNe dasa DaoNlaranI noTa rozanane ApI rUbala maMgAvyA. rozane basamAMthI UtarI e noTa pelA mANasane ApI. e so rUbalanI noTo gaNato hato tyAM to acAnaka DaoNlaranI noTa jamIna para pheMkI daIne e bhAgyo. eno sAthIdAra paNa doDI gayo. rozane DaoNlaranI noTa upADI laIne basamAM AvI suMdarane pAchI ApI dIdhI. rozana basamAMthI pAchI UtaravA jAya tyAM be polIse ene pakaDI. basanA DrAIvare ujhabeka bhASAmAM polIse pUchelA praznonA uttara ApyA. rozane suMdaranuM nAma ApyuM. suMdaram nAmakara gayA. rozane emanA para gusso karyo, paNa have javAbadArI rozana para AvI. ame mArkeTamAM jaIne pAchA AvyA tyAre basanI AsapAsa ToLuM jAmI gayuM hatuM. zI ghaTanA banI che te tarata samajAyuM nahi. bhASAno prazna paNa kharo. basamAM beThA pachI thoDoka khyAla Avyo. gAIDa momine polIsone emanI ujhabeka bhASAmAM samajAvyA ane chevaTe amArI basa AgaLanA kAryakramo mATe UpaDI. te divase rAtre nava vAge be soviyeTa guptacaro dubhASiyAne laIne amArI hoTela para AvyA hatA. rozanane bolAvavAmAM AvI. nIce laoNnjamAM eka pAradarzaka kAcavALI kebinamAM rozananI pUchaparacha thaI rahI hatI. ghIme ghIme badhA pravAsIomAM vAta prasarI gaI. koI koI laoNnjamAM AMTo mArI cUpacApa joI AvyA. doDheka kalAka pUchaparacha cAlI haze. rozana jorajorathI bolatI hoya ema lAgyuM. gucaro nivedana laI vidAya thayA. ame keTalAka mitro zuM thAya che enI utsukatAthI rAha joI laoNnjanA eka khUNAmAM beThA hatA. rozana tyAM AvI. eNe kahyuM, "meM guptacarone spaSTa kahI dIdhuM ke ame TUrisTa chIe. tamArA dezanA kAyadAnI amane khabara nathI. tame tamArA mANasone khoTuM karatAM kema aTakAvatA nathI ? tamArI pharaja che emane aTakAvavAnI. amane paradezIone zI khabara paDe ?' koI moTo vijaya meLavyo hoya evo ruAba rozananA caherA para jaNAto hato. eNe kahyuM, "meM e lokone evA dabaDAvyA ke bicArA bolI zuM zake ?' DaoNlara-rUbalanuM prakaraNa patI gayuM eTale ame badhA nizcita thaIne sUtA. savAre ame soviyeTa yuniyananA anya nagaronA pravAse UpaDI gayA. daseka divasano pravAsa

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tArakaMdamAM 109 pUro karI ane dilhI javA pharI tAkaMda AvI e ja hoTelamAM UtaryA. rAtre ArAma karI savAre eNra inDiyAnuM vimAna amAre pakaDavAnuM hatuM. ame potapotAnI rUmamAM pravAsanA anubhavo vAgoLatA hatA. eTalAmAM amArA rUmamAM phonanI ghaMTaDI vAgI. eka sahapravAsIe samAcAra ApyA ke soviyeTa guptacaro AvyA che ane rozana tathA mi. suMdaramane nIce laI gayA che. amane ciMtAjanaka Azcarya thayuM. je vAta amAre mana patI gaI hatI eno keDo guptacaroe mUkyo nahoto. amArA pAchA pharavAnI teo rAha joI rahyA hatA. ame laoNnjamAM AMTo mAravA gayA. dUrathI najara karI. rozana DhIlI hatI. suMdarama nIcuM moDhuM karIne besI rahyA hatA. kAunTara uparathI amane jANavA maLyuM ke je be ujhabeka mANasoe DaoNlara-rUbalano sodo karyo hato teone pakaDI pADavAmAM AvyA hatA. teoe pote lIdhelA DaoNlaranI kabUlAta karI lIdhI hatI. AthI je be jaNe amArAmAMthI rUbala lIdhA hatA temanA manamAM gabharATa cAlu thayo. teo AghApAchA thaI gayA. lagabhaga be kalAka pUchaparacha cAlI paNa koIne choDavAmAM AvyAM nahotAM. thoDe dUrathI najara karatAM jaNAyuM ke rozana have dhrusake dhrusake raDI rahI hatI. suMdaram paNa sUnamUna thaI gayA hatA. tyAM vaLI amane samAcAra maLyA ke era InDiyAnA menejarane bolAvavAmAM AvyA che. AvatI kAlanI amArI saphara kadAca rada thAya. ame sau ciMtAtura banI gayA. tyAM to tAtkaMda khAtenA bhAratanA kaoNnsala janaralane paNa bolAvavAmAM AvyA. gerakAyade DaoNlara vaTAvavAnI nAnI vAte ghaNuM moTuM rUpa pakaDyuM. ame anizcitatAnA vamaLamAM phasAyA. chevaTe konsala janarale guptacarone khAtarI ApI, era inDiyAnA menejare bhalAmaNa karI, rozana ane suMdarame lekhita mAphI ApI eTale teo baMnene choDavAmAM AvyAM. je be ujhabeka nAgarikoe DaoNlara laI rUbala ApyA hatA temane to sajA thaze ja, paNa amArI ciMtA TaLI. raDI raDIne rozanano cahero sUjI gayo hato. amArI koInI sAthe vAta karavA te UbhI na rahI. rUmamAM jaIne te sUI gaI, paNa AkhI rAta ene UMgha nathI AvI ema savAre jANavA maLyuM. savAre samaya thatAM ame sau potapotAnA sAmAna sAthe laoNnjamAM AvI gayA. basa AvatAM temAM goThavAyA. eNrapaoNrTa AvIne badhI vidhi patAvI vimAnanI rAha jotAM beThA. have rozananI jIbha UghaDI. potAnI haiyAvarALa ThAlavatAM te bolI, "soviyeTa yuniyananA adhikArIo taddana nAlAyaka che. kAgano vAgha karyo. teo buddhinA bela jevA che. eTaluM samaje nahi ke huM to eka gAIDa chuM. meM kaMI thoDA rUbala kharIdyA che ? mArA jevI eka mahilAne satAvatAM teone jarA paNa zarama naDI nahi. meM to have pratijJA lIdhI che ke jiMdagImAM bIjI vAra soviyeTa yuniyanamAM paga mUkavo nahi."

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana rozanano ukaLATa ane kakaLATa samajI zakAya evA hatA. gAiDa tarIke ene jiMdagImAM eka navo pATha zIkhavA maLyo hato. suMdaram pAse dakSiNa bhAratIya svarabhAra sahita 'baTTa'(But)thI zarU thatuM enuM e ja vAkaya pharIpharIne bolavA sivAya bIjuM kazuM hatuM nahi. eNra InDiyAnA amArA vimAne tAkaMdanI dharatI choDI tyAre sauthI vadhu rAhata rozane anubhavI hatI. 10

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17 TrikomAlI zrIlaMkAnI amArI sapharamAM anurAdhApuram ane polonAruvAnAM aitihAsika sthaLo joIne ame DriMkomAlI baMdara tarapha ravAnA thayA. 1976nA eprila mahinAno e samaya hato. amArI pAse gharanI moTaragADI hatI eTale agAuthI koI hoTelamAM rijharvezana na karAvatAM, rAta paDe tyAM rAtavAso rahevuM e nyAye ame pravAsa kheDI rahyA hatA ke jethI jyAM jeTaluM rokAvuM hoya teTaluM rokAI zakIe. zrIlaMkAnA hariyALA rastAomAM Thera Thera lIlAM nALiyera vecavAvALA nALiyeranA DhagalA pAtharIne beThA hoya. sastA bhAve te maLe ane pItAM dharAIe nahi evuM mIThuM pANI hoya. thoDe thoDe aMtare cAnI nAnI nAnI hATaDIo Ave. dUdha vagaranI, sarasa soDamavALI, ratUmaDA raMganI cA pIvAno viziSTa anubhava thAya. kayAMka tAjA koparAnuM dUdha paNa pIvA maLe. pharatAM pharatAM ame pahoMcyA TrikomAlI zaheramAM. zrIlaMkAnA pUrvakinAre AveluM e eka nAnuM baMdara che. tyAMnuM vAtAvaraNa gamI jAya evuM zAnta hatuM. TrAphikano khAsa ghoghATa nahoto. prajA ekaMdare garIba ane narama jaNAya. TrikomAlI baMdara hovAne kAraNe dUrapUrvamAM jatI-AvatI keTalIya sTImaro tyAM rokAya. videzI jahAjonA karmacArIo jahAjamAM rAtavAso na rahevuM hoya to hoTelamAM AvIne rokAya. keTalIka sArI hoTelone kamANI AvA videzI pravAsIonI thAya. jahAjo AvyAM hoya to hoTelomAM jagyA na maLe. jahAjo jAya eTale hoTelo khAlIkhama. TrikomAlI pahoMcIne ame hoTelanI tapAsa karI. madhyama kakSAnI eka sarakArI hoTelamAM amane jagyA maLI gaI. aMgreja lokoe baMdhAvelI eTale enuM sthApatya bhavya hatuM. paraMtu eno vahIvaTa sarakArI starano rahyo hato. hoTelamAM bhoMyataLiye koriDorane cheDe amane traNa jaNa mATe eka rUma ApavAmAM Avyo. eka ja rUma khAlI hato eTale pasaMdagInAM nakharAM cAle ema nahotAM. vaLI amAre kayAM eka rAtathI vadhAre rokAvuM hatuM ? paraMtu rUma jarA paNa svaccha nahoto. ethI amArA siMhAlI DrAivare hoTelanA maeNnejarane enI siMhAlI bhASAmAM Thapako Apyo. jIbhAjoDI thaI ane vAtAvaraNa bagaDyuM. pachI to kAyadAnI vAta AvI; AvakAranI uSmA adazya thaI gaI. jyAM sarakArI taMtra hoya tyAM karmacArIone kAyadA ghaNA AvaDe. kAma karavuM hoya 11

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ra - pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana topaNa kAyadAno Azraya levAya ane na karavuM hoya topaNa. keTalAMya sarakArI taMtramAM kAma thAya e mahattvanuM nathI; kAyado jaLavAya e vadhAre mahattvanuM hoya che. keTalIka mAthAkUTa pachI be nokaro rUma sApha karI gayA. gAdalAMnI cAdara badalI gayA. pIvAnuM pANI bharI gayA. paNa badhuM mana vagaranuM. ApaNe jemanI garaja bhogavavAnI ' hoya e mANasanuM moDhuM caDheluM hoya tyAre judI ja mUMjhavaNa anubhavAya. ghaDIka ADA paDyA pachI bahAra javA mATe ame hAthamoDhuM dhovA gayA, paNa naLamAM pANI AvatuM nahotuM. tarata maeNnejarane phariyAda karI. eNe kahyuM, 'tamArI TAMkImAM upara pANI khalAsa thaI gayuM haze ! tamane bAladI bharIne nokara pANI ApI jaze.' 'TAMkImAM pANI kayAre Avaze ?' 'ame sAMje cha vAge pANI caDAvavA mATe mazIna cAlu karIe chIe.' 'atyAre poNA cha thavA AvyA che. thoDuM vaheluM cAlu na karI zako ? amAre tarata bahAra javuM che.' 'mApha karajo, vaheluM cAlu nahi thAya. ahIMno e niyama che.' kAyadA ane niyamonI gUMgaLAmaNa anubhavatA ame, eka bAladI pANI magAvI hAthamo dhoI samudrakinAre javA nIkaLyA, kAraNa ke tyAM moDA paDIe to boTamAM jaLavihAra karavA na maLe. ame samudrakinArA tarapha gADI haMkArI, sUryAstanI veLA thavA AvI hatI. divasa DhaLavA Avyo hato. ame samudrakinAre baMdara para pahoMcyA. tyAM pravAsIone dariyAnI sahelagAha karAvavAmAM AvatI hatI. gADI pArka karIne ame dhakkA para pahoMcyA. tapAsa karI to bukiMga klArke kahyuM, 'amAro samaya thaI gayo che. cha vAgI gayA che, chellI boTa ravAnA thaI gaI che. thoDI vAramAM e pAchI pharaze eTale badhuM baMdha thaze.' ame nirAza thayA, tyAM UbhA UbhA samudrane nihALI rahyA hatA. bukiMga kalArka potAnI kaeNbinamAM hisAba karI rahyo hato. chellA pherAnI boTa AvI pahoMcI ane musApharo UtarIne cAlyA javA lAgyA hatA. amane vicAra Avyo ke hoTelanA maeNnejara jevo A bukiMga klArka nathI. eNe potAnI dilagIrI batAvI temAM paNa keTalI badhI naramAza hatI ! keTalo badho viveka hato ! eTale amane thayuM ke cAlo eka prayAsa karI joIe. duniyAmAM jema mAThA anubhavo thAya che tema sArA anubhavo paNa thAya che. kAyadAo ane niyamo vyavasthA mATe hoya che. emAM jaDatA Ave e svAbhAvika che. kyAreka takarArI vartuLomAM kAyadAnI jaDatA Avazyaka ke anivArya paNa bane che. bIjI bAju paristhiti anusAra, sthaLa para pharaja bajAvatI vyaktine viziSTa sattA paNa hoya che. eTale bukiMga klArkane jo premabhAvathI vinaMtI karIe to kadAca e saphaLa paNa thAya. ame enI pAse jaIne kahyuM, 'ame

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drikomAlI 113 bhAratathI AvIe chIe. tamArA TAImanI amane khabara nahi. ame thoDA moDA jarUra paDyA chIe. eTale tame amane nA kahI te barAbara ja che. paraMtu duniyAmAM ghaNe ThekANe pharaja paranA mANasane thoDI chUTa hoya che. ame jiMdagImAM bIjI vAra TrikomAlI AvIzuM ke kema tenI khabara nathI, paNa tame tamArI sattA vAparIne boTamAM sahelagAha karAvo to ghaNI maherabAnI thaze." kalAke tarata InkAra na karyo. vicAravA lAgyo. pachI eNe kahyuM, 'be miniTa thobho ! huM boTa calAvanArane pUchI lauM.' eNe bahAra nIkaLI siMhAlI bhASAmAM khalAsIo sAthe vAta karI. khalAsIoe amArI sAme joyuM ane tarata amane IzAro kyo. ame AnaMdita thaI gayA. paisA bharI TikiTa laI ame boTamAM beThA. boTa cAlI. boTacAlake amane samajAvyuM ke duniyAmAM TrikomAlIne jevo samudra che evo bIje kyAMya jovA nahi maLe. tame DAbI bAju juo. UMco kinAro ane jhADapAna che. e kinAro lagabhaga vartuLAkAre vadhato vadhato dUra eka cheDe AvI pUro thAya che. have jamaNI bAju juo ! emAM paNa e ja pramANe che, chatAM A baMne kinArA dUra dUra sAme bhegA thatA nathI. e benI vacce thoDI jagyA che. emAMthI bahAranA mahAsAgaramAM javAya che. A TrikomAlIno dariyo che. ene bahAra baMgALano upasAgara ane hiMdI mahAsAgara maLe che.' amArI naukA DAbI bAjunA kinArA tarapha teo laI gayA, tyAMthI mahAsAgara dhyAnathI joIe to ja dekhAya, nahi to najaramAM paNa na Ave. jANe vartuLAkAra sarovara jevA samudramAM ApaNe hoIe evuM lAge. amArI boTa AgaLa vadhatI vadhatI be kinArAnI vacce AvI pahoMcI. ahIMthI have e mahAsAgaramAM dAkhala thaI. boTacAlako boTane eka bAju dUra laI gayA. tyAMthI batAvIne kahyuM, 'have A mahAsAgaramAMthI tame juo to jANe sIdho saLaMga kinAro che evo bhrama thAya. koI jANakAra hoya to ja khabara paDe ke A bahAranA kinArAnI aMdara moTA sarovara jevaDo TrikomAlIno dariyo che.' TrikomAlInA baMdaranI khAsiyata koI judI ja jAtanI hatI. boTacAlakoe enI mahattA samajAvI tyAre ja samaja paDI. sAruM thayuM ke naukAvihAranI taka maLI. nahi to enI A khUbInI khabara jAte jovA maLata nahi. boTacAlake kahyuM, TrikomAlI baMdaranI aMdara koI sTImara UbhI hoya to mahAsAgaramAMthI pasAra thatI sTImarane e dekhAze nahi. eno artha e thayo ke TrikomAlI baMdara e sTImarone saMtAI javA mATenuM sarasa baMdara che. enI A khAsiyatano upayoga bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate briTiza naukAsenAe ghaNo sAro karyo hato. briTiza laDAyaka jahAje TrikomAlInA A dariyAmAM saMtAI rahetAM. jApAne

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14 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana siMgApura upara kabajo meLavyo e pachI A mahAsAgaramAM enAM laDAyaka jahAjonI avarajavara vadhI gaI hatI. e vakhate jApAnI jahAja jyAre pAse Ave tyAre briTiza jahAja bahAra nIkaLI acAnaka enA upara topamAro karatAM. briTane e rIte tyAre zrIlaMkAnA kolaMbo baMdara karatAM paNa TrikomAlIno vadhu upayoga karyo hato.' naukAvihAra karI ame pAchA pharyA. amane kharekhara jaLavihAranA AnaMda uparAMta sArI jANakArI maLI. ame klArka tathA boTacAlakone bakSisa ApavA mATe paisA kADhatA hatA tyAM e lokoe ja amane aTakAvIne kahyuM, "nA sAheba ! A to amArI pharaja che. tamane AnaMda ane saMtoSa thayo e ja amArI bakSisa che.' amArA atizaya Agraha chatAM teo ja yA. temanI vidAya laI ame hoTela para pAchA kya. hoTalamAM dAkhala thaI ame amArI rUma tarapha vaLyA. rUma AgaLa ghaNuM bhInuM hatuM. koIe pANI DhoLyuM hoya evuM lAgyuM. hoTelavALA barAbara svacchatA jALavatA nathI e vicAre amane cIDa caDI. paNa jyAM rUmanuM bAra kholyuM tyAM AkhI rUma pANIthI bharelI joI. je pANI bahAra hatuM te amArI rUmamAMthI ja bahAra AvyuM hatuM. ame vicAramAM paDI gayA. tyAM to baMdha bAtharUmamAMthI jorathI naLanuM pANI vahI javAno avAja Avyo. bAtharUma kholI ame tarata naLa baMdha karyo. amane amArI bhUla samajAI. bahAra jatI vakhate naLa baMdha karavAnuM ame bhUlI gayA hatA. amArI gerahAjarImAM naLa cAlu thayo ane rUmamAM pANI bharAI gayuM. amArI baeNgo pANImAM taratI hatI. huM majAkamAM bolyo, "ApaNane jaLavihAra karavA maLyo, to bicArI baeNgone paNa jaLavihAranI taka maLavI joIe ne ?' beMgo bahArathI khAssI bhInI thaI gaI hatI, paNa sadabhAgye aMdaranAM kapaDAM bhInAM thayAM nahotAM. kAunTara upara jaIne ame phariyAda karI. be nokaroe AvIne rUmanuM pANI sApha karI nAkhyuM. ame menejarane kahyuM, 'rUmamAM ATaluM badhuM pANI bharAI gayuM, to tamAre dhyAna ApavuM joIe ne ?' 'paNa rUmanI cAvI to tame sAthe laI gayA hatA. emAM ame zuM karIe ?' "tamArI pAse DuplikeTa cAvI to hoya ne ? e vaDe rUma kholIne pANI baMdha karavuM joIe ne ?' DuplikeTa cAvI vaDe rUma kholavAnI amane sattA nathI. e mATe uparI adhikArInI rajA joIe. AvI nAnI bAbata mATe uparI adhikArI amane rajA na Ape." je bAbata amAre mATe mahattvanI hatI e bAbata menejara mATe najIvI hatI.

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TrikomAlI 15 eTale enI AgaLa vizeSa dalIla karavAno artha nahoto. mauna e ja amAre mATe sAco upAya hato. rUmamAM badhuM vyavasthita karI bhojanakhaMDamAM ame bhojana levA gayA. pIrasanAra nokaronA lukhkhA caherA joI bhojanamAM paNa amane bhAva Avyo nahi. jematema koLiyo gaLe utArI rUmamAM AvI ame nidrAdhIna thaI gayA. bIje divase savAre ame hoTela choDI rahyA hatA. nokarone bolAvavAne badale amArI baeNgo jAte UMcakIne moTaramAM mUkavA ame jatA hatA, paNa te UMcakI levA jeTalo viveka dAkhavavo ke nahi tenI mUMjhavaNa nokaronA caherA para dekhAtI hatI. paraMtu jevA ame moTaramAM besavA gayA tyAM baMne nokaro bakSisa mATe laLIlaLIne salAma karavA lAgyA. AvA nokarone kSisa ApavI ke nahi ? lokavyavahAra kaheze ke teo bakSisane lAyaka ja nathI. paraMtu amArA aMta:karaNe kahyuM, 'A nokarone nahi, naukAvihAra karAvanAra klArka ane khalAsIone najara sAme rAkho. nokara sAthe nokara jevA ApaNAthI thavAya nahi.' bakSisa maLatAM baMne nokaronA lukhkhA, caDelA caherAnI rekhAo prasannatAmAM palaTAI gaI. pharI teo laLIlaLIne salAma karavA lAgyA. amArI moTara dAmbullAne raste ravAnA thaI. TrikomAlImAM naLanA ane samudranA jaLa vaccenA taphAvatano amane je anubhava thayo te ame vAgoLatA rahyA.

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vAlDijha amerikAnA alAskA pradezamAM javAnuM svapna to meM uttara dhruvanI zodhasaphara' nAmanuM pustaka lakhyuM hatuM tyArathI seveluM, paNa koI tevo yoga maLyo nahoto. 1991mAM amerikAnA pravAse gayelI mArI putrI ci. zailajA ane jamAI zrI cetanabhAI potAnAM saMtAno sAthe, alAskAnA pravAse jaI AvyAM. potAnA pravAsanuM varNana karatAM teoe vAlDijhanI bahu prazaMsA karI. koI anubhavI mArgadarzana Ape to dUranA ajANyA pradezamAM javAnI savizeSa anukULatA rahe. daramiyAna mArA putra ci. amitAbha ane putravadhU sau. surabhi paNa potAnA cAra mahinAnA putra arcitane laIne TheTha paoNInTa bero sudhI jaI AvyAM. temaNe paNa vAlDijha javAnI khAsa bhalAmaNa karI. teonuM vAlDijhanuM smaraNa e rIte jIvaMta banI rahyuM ke arcitane vAlDijhamAM pahelI vAra pathArImAM paDakhuM pharatAM ane UMdhAM paDatAM AvaDI gayuM. have ene palaMgamAM ekalo suvADIne AghApAchA na javAya. sadabhAgye 1992nA unALAmAM mane ane mArAM patnIne alAskA javAnI taka maLI. enkarejathI ame pherabenkasa pahoMcyAM tyAMthI paoNInTa bero pharI AvIne dakSiNamAM vAlDijha gayAM. enkarejathI sIdhA paNa vAlDijha jaI zakAya. suMdara rastAnI baMne bAju manohara prakRti-sauMdarya mANavA maLe. unALAmAM alAskAnI dharatI kaMIka judI ja AbhA dhAraNa kare che. dakSiNa alAskAnAM be mukhya baMdaro te vAlDijha ane koDavA. alAskAnI khADIno eka laMbavartuLAkAra phoTo jamInamAM Ave che. e samudranuM nAma che prinsa viliyama sAunDa. enA kinAre vAlDijha baMdara AveluM che. dakSiNa alAskAnA A pradezanI zodha sauprathama spenanA zodhapharIoe karI hatI. teo I.sa. 1790mAM ahIM AvelA. teoe potAnA spenanA naukA khAtAnA eka pradhAna enToniyo vAlDijhanA nAma uparathI A sthaLane 'vAlDijha' nAma ApyuM hatuM. vAlDijhamAM vasavATa cAlu thayo 1890mAM. tyAre vAlDijhanI DuMgarALa dharatImAMthI sonuM nIkaLyuM. e vakhate ghaNI kaMpanIoe judA judA vistAramAM potAnI mAlikInI jamIna kharIdIne khANo khodAvelI. tyAre moTI saMkhyAmAM kALA majUrone lAvIne ahIM vasAvavAmAM AvelA. paraMtu A pradezamAMthI dhAryuM hatuM eTaluM sonuM na nIkaLyuM. ghaNI kaMpanIo potAnA kharca jeTaluM mAMDa kamAI zakI. keTalIka devAmAM DUbI gaI. 116

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vADijha 117 sonA mATeno kaMpanIono dhasAro eka dAyakAmAM bhrAmaka nIvaDyo. kALA majUronI vastI dhIme dhIme ghaTI gaI. alAskAmAMthI sonuM na nIkaLyuM, paNa tela (oNila) nIkaLyuM. eTale oNila mATe Black Gold - kALuM sonuM zabda vAparAya che. alAskAnI uttare dhruvapradezanA samudramAMthI nIkaLelA telane pAipa vATe vAlDijhanA baMdare lai AvavAmAM AvyuM ke jethI TeMkaromAM bharIne te laI jaI zakAya. Ama, vAlTijhamAM vasavATa pharI pAcho cAlu thayo. to paNa te eka nAnuM, cAreka hajAranI vastIvALuM zAMta zahera che. ahIM avarajavara ghaNI ochI dekhAya. unALAmAM pravAsIonA AvAgamanane kAraNe nAnI nAnI hoTelo, resTorAM, sTorsa, peTrola-paMpa vagerethI zahera kaMika jIvaMta lAge, paraMtu ziyALAmAM to lagabhaga badhuM ja baMdha. samudranuM pANI paNa thIjIne barapha thaI gayuM hoya. vAlDijhanA prinsa viliyama sAunDanA samudranI eka bAju himAcchAdita yugAca parvata Avelo che. bIjI bAju TApuo ane DuMgarAo AvelA che. A samudranA bIje cheDe duniyAnI eka moTAmAM moTI himanadI (gleziyara) AvelI che. enuM nAma kolaMbiyA gleziyara. te lagabhaga cAlIsa mAIla lAMbI che. ethI thoDe dUra bIjI eka gleziyara AvelI che. enuM nAma varliMgaTana gleziyara. vAlTijhamAM je majA che te sTImaramAM besI TheTha kolaMbiyA gleziyara sudhI pahoMcavAnI che. A thIjI gayelI nadImAM, unALo zarU thatAM barapha ogaLato jAya ane nIce khasato jAya. vAlDijha pahoMcI, eka hoTelamAM rAtrimukAma karI bIje divase savAre ATha vAge ame baMdara para pahoMcI gayAM ane TikiTa laI sTImaramAM beThAM. sTena sTiphansa kaMpanInI e sTImara hatI. ame sittera jeTalA pravAsIo hatA. bhAratIya pravAsIomAM ame be ja hatAM. ghaDiyALanA Takore sTImara UpaDI. kakSAne amArA saunuM svAgata karyuM. amAro kasAna e ja amAro gAiDa paNa hato. sauprathama eNe kahyuM, 'ApaNI sapharamAM tamArA mATe kaoNphI ane nAsto rAkhavAmAM AvyAM che. tamArI TikiTanA cArjamAM e AvI jAya che. tame resTorAMnA kAunTara upara jaIne kaoNphI paNa joIe teTalI pI zako cho. e mATe jarA paNa saMkoca rAkhazo nahi.' viliyama sAunDanA zAMta samudramAM amArI sTImara dhImI gatie cAlI. baMne bAjunA pradezono kasAna paricaya karAvato jAya. eNe kahyuM, 'vAlDijha pAMca bAbato mATe jANItuM che. eka : kolaMbiyA gleziyara, be : sonAnI khANa mATe dhasAro, traNa : 1964no bhayaMkara dharatIkaMpa, cAra : tela mATe TrAnsa elieskA pAipalAina sTezana ane pAMca : ekajhona TeMkarano akasmAta.' 1964nA dharatIkaMpa vize vAta karatAM eNe kahyuM, 'sAmAnya rIte rikTara skela upara sADA cha ke sAta paoNinTa uparanA dharatIkaMpa bhayaMkara manAya che. sarerAza bhayaMkara dharatIkaMpo

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118 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana eTalA paoNInTanA ja thAya che. paraMtu vAlDijhano dharatIkaMpa 9.2 paoNInTano hato. e uparathI tame samajI zakazo ke e dharatIkaMpa keTalo badho bhayaMkara haze ! e vakhate A samudramAM 170 phUTa jeTalAM UMcAM mojAM UchaLyAM hatAM. cAre bAju pralaya jevI sthiti hatI. tyAre vastI ahIM ghaNI ochI hatI eTale mANaso ochA mAryA hatA, paraMtu makAno ane vRkSone pArAvAra nukasAna thayuM hatuM." ekajhona TekaranA akasmAta vize bolatAM kaNAne kahyuM, "oIla Tekarano duniyAno A eka moTAmAM moTo akasmAta che. A dariyAnuM pANI haju paNa tamane jarAka kALAzavALuM jaNAze. ExXon Valdez nAmanI sTImara potAnAM TakaramAM tela bharIne ahIMthI ravAnA thaI. 1989nA 24mI mArcanI e madharAta. sTImaranA kamAne dArUno nazo karelo. potAnA zikhAu madadanIzane sTImara calAvavAnuM soMpIne pote UMghI gayo. A dariyo sAMkaDo che. eTale thoDe jatAMmAM ja sTImara kinArA pAsenA eka moTA khaDaka sAthe jorathI bhaTakAI gaI. TekaramAM moTuM gAbaDuM paDyuM ane dhaDa dhaDa dhaDa tela dariyAmAM ThalavAvA lAgyuM. be divasamAM to eka karoDa ane dasa lAkha gelana karatAM vadhu tela dariyAmAM vahI gayuM. pANImAM prasarI javuM e telano svabhAva. alAskAnI khADImAM kinAre kinAre agiyAraso mAIla sudhI tela prasarI gayuM. A viliyama sAunDanuM pANI to kALuM dhaba. dUSita pANIne lIdhe lAkho mAchalIo ne bIjAM aneka jalacaro marI gayAM. pANI ane khorAka upara nabhatAM hajAro pakSIo khorAka na maLatAM taraphaDIne marI gayAM. kinArA uparanAM vRkSo dUSita havAmAnane lIdhe kALAM paDI gayAM ane keTalAMye karamAI gayAM. dariyAnuM pANI eTaluM badhuM kharAba thaI gayuM ke ene sApha karatAM karatAM eka varasa thaI gayuM ane oNIla kaMpanIne te oNIlanA nukasAna uparAMta sApha karAvavA mATe aDhI abaja DaoNlaranuM kharca thayuM. eka javAbadAra mANase karelA vadhu paDatA nazAne pariNAme keTaluM badhuM bhayaMkara nukasAna thayuM !' resTorAMno kAunTara cAlu thayAnI jAherAta thatAM badhAM tyAM pahoMcyAM, kaoNphI-nAsto laI ame te khAvA lAgyAM. amArI bAjumAM eka bhAI UbhA hatA. emanI sAthe vAta karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke pote enkarejamAM rahe che. emaNe potAnI be bahenono paricaya karAvyo. baMne baheno keneDA, monTriyalamAM rahe che, sittera-paMcotera varSanI baMne baheno haze! temanI vAlDijha ane kolaMbiyA gleziyara jevAnI khAsa IcchA che eTale enkarejathI vahelI savAramAM nIkaLI teo ahIM AvyAM che. bhAI pote to kolaMbiyA gleziyara mATenI saphara ghaNI vAra karI gayA che. e baMne vRddhAoe breDa, mAkhaNa vagereno nAsto sArI rIte dharAIne karyo. kaoNphI paNa ThIka ThIka pIdhI. bhAIne phakata kaoNphImAM ja rasa hato. pote vahelI savAramAM nIkaLyA hatA eTale khAvAthI jhokAM Ave evo Dara hato.

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vAlDigra ane sTImaramAM bahAra khullAmAM kaTheDA pAse UbhA rahevAthI cAre bAjunuM dazya sAruM jovA maLe, paNa sakhata ThaMDI ane jorathI phUMkAtA pavanane lIdhe vadhu vAra UbhA rahevAya nahi. kaeNbinamAM hITarane kAraNe hUMphALuM lAge, paraMtu pAradarzaka kAcamAMthI eka ja bAjunuM maryAdita dazya jovA maLe. keTalAka pravAsIo vArApharatI aMdarabahAra AvajA karyA kare. bhAre nAstA pachI pelI be kaeNneDiyana mahilAo kaeNbinamAM AvI kahe, 'bahAra bahuThaMDI che, aMdara garamAvo sAro che.' teo baMne bAjubAjunI beThakamAM goThavAI gaI. hAlakaDolaka thatI sTImarano laya, bhAre nAsto, hUMphALuM vAtAvaraNa, AgalI rAtanI ochI UMgha, sTImara cAlavAnA avAjanI kaeNbinanI aMdara maMdatA ane vRddhAvasthA pachI to pUchavuM ja zuM ? thoDI vAramAM to te baMnenI AMkho gherAvA lAgI. baMne ekabIjI para mAthuM DhALIne UMghI gaI. emanA bhAIe kahyuM, 'meM emane kahyuM hatuM ke bahu khAzo nahi, paNa mAruM mAnyuM nahi. unagaro che eTale meM kazuM ja khAdhuM nahi. huM to thoDI thoDI vAre kaoNphI pIdhe rAkhIza eTale vAMdho nahi. dasabAra kapa kaoNphI pI jAu topaNa mane kaMI thAya nahi.' amArI sTImara AgaLa vadhatI jatI hatI. evAmAM dariyAmAM dUra dUra keTalIka zveta hoDIo taratI dekhAI. paraMtu najIka pahoMcatAM jaNAyuM ke e hoDIo nahotI, paraMtu baraphanI moTI moTI zilAo hatI. paMdarapacIsa phUTa lAMbI ane cArapAMca phUTa UMcI e zilAo pANImAM evI rIte taratI hatI ke AvI bhaugolika racanAthI aparicita vyaktine dUrathI pahelI vAra jotAM e hoDI jevI ja lAge. vastutaH e nAnA nAnA Aisabarga hatA. pANInI sapATI upara dekhAya tenA karatAM pANImAM nIce ghaNA vadhAre hoya. AgaLa jatAM to moTA Aisabarga paNa AvavA lAgyA. Aisabarga eTale taratI himazilAo athavA taratA himaDuMgaro. dhruvapradezamAM e jovA maLe. sTImara jema jema AgaLa vadhatI gaI tema tema himazilAonuM ane baraphanA nAnAmoTA TukaDAonuM pramANa vadhatuM gayuM. jema koI moTA tapelAmAM pANI ThaMDuM karavA mATe baraphanA nAnAmoTA TukaDAo nAkhavAmAM AvyA hoya ane te pANImAM chUTAchavAyA taratA hoya tema A viliyama sAunDanA samudramAM nAnImoTI himazilAo taratI hatI. koI koI zilAomAM, vaccethI ogaLI javAne kAraNe polANa thaI gayuM hatuM. sUryano taDako je bAju upara paDato hoya te bAju teTalo vakhata vadhu ogaLe. e rIte dareka zilAnA AkAra judA judA jovA maLe. koIkamAM ArapAra bAkoruM hoya, koIkamAM vacce eka moTo khADo hoya, koIkamAM becAra jagyAe nAnA nAnA khADA paDyA hoya. baraphanA polANamAM sUryanA prakAzane lIdhe AchA vAdaLI ke nIla raMganI jhAMya dekhAya. kyAMka Acho gulAbI raMga dekhAya. vaLI taDakAmAM baraphanA raMgo ane AkRtio badalAtAM

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120 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana rahe. AkhuM dRzya AkarSaka, manohara lAge, zveta barapha jovAne TevAyelI ApaNI AMkho mATe AvuM dRzya taddana navIna ane AnaMdavibhora kare evuM lAge. dariyAmAM cAre bAju dariyAI gala (Seal Gull) pakSIo UDatAM dekhAyA kare. ziyALo AvatAM ane barapha (Snow) paDavAno zarU thatAM A dariyAI pakSIo sthaLAMtara karatAM karatAM hajAro mAIla dUra cAlyAM jAya. Rtu anusAra, potAne anukULa hoya evI AbohavAvALA pradezamAM thaIne UDatAM UDatAM teo pAMcadasa hajAra mAIla 62 nIkaLI jAya ane ziyALo tyAM pasAra karI pAchAM phare. duniyAnA judA judA pradezomAMthI gala, phlemiMgo (sUrakhAba) vagere pakSIo kayA kayA AkAzamArge uDDayana karatAM karatAM karyAM karyAM mukAma kare che tenA have vyavasthita nakazAo taiyAra thayelA che. AvAM vihArI pakSIo dara varSe ziyALAmAM judA judA pradezomAM hajAronI saMkhyAmAM bhAratamAM paNa Ave che. viliyama sAunDamAM TAlavALAM bAja pakSIo uparAMta gala pakSIonuM uDDayana koI vAra kautukajanaka lAge. koIka vAra ekasAthe chasAta pakSIo, paraspara ekasarakhA aMtare, ekasarakhI UMcAie dUra dUra sudhI uDDayana kare ane sAthe ja dizA badale, jANe havAI daLanAM vimAnonI kavAyata na hoya ! koI vAra teo sAthe sAthe rahIne dariyAnI sapATIthI AThadasa iMca UMce UDatAM UDatAM ekAda kilomITara jeTaluM aMtara kApe, sAva nIcI sapATIe UDatAM UDatAM teo pANImAM najara rAkhe ane jyAM potAno khorAka dekhAya tyAM besI paDe. sAmAnya rIte haMsa, bataka vagere jaLapakSIo paga vALI laIne pANI upara peTe besIne taratAM hoya che. pakSI pANInI upara be page UbhuM rahI zakatuM nathI; kAraNa ke tenA zarIranuM vajana evuM hoya che. paraMtu vAlTijhanA A dariyAmAM keTalAMka gala pakSIone pANImAM be page UbhAM rahelAM joIne mane bahu Azcarya thayuM, UMce UDatAM hoya te pakSIo nIce Utare ane pANInI sapATI upara be paga TekavIne UbhAM rahe. vahetA pANI sAthe e rIte vahe paNa kharAM. A prakAranuM dRzya jiMdagImAM pahelI vAra amane jovA maLyuM. sAmAnya rIte pakSIonI AvI lAkSaNikatA tarapha koIkanuM ja dhyAna jAya ane jAya to AvuM kevI rIte thaI zake evI jijJAsA paNa koIkane thAya. avalokananI Tevane lIdhe mane kautuka thayuM. enuM kAraNa jANavA meM kamAnane prazna karyo, mArA praznathI te rAjI thayo, eNe kahyuM, 'Avo prazna javalle ja koI kare che. tame prazna karyo tethI mane bahu AnaMda thayo. je gala pakSIo ahIM pANImAM be page UbhAM rahe che te pakSIone bIjA dariyAmAM laI javAmAM Ave to tyAM UbhAM nahi rahI zake.' 'enuM kAraNa zuM ?' 'enuM kAraNa e che ke A baraphanA TukaDAvALo dariyo che. baraphanI zilAonA TukaDA ogaLatAM ogaLatAM chevaTe nAnA baoNla ke lakhoTA jevA thaI jAya. pANImAM haju

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vAjhi 1ra e taratA hoya. thoDA kalAka pachI e paNa ogaLIne pANImAM pANI thaI jAya. evA nAnA TukaDA ApaNane na dekhAya, paNa nIcI sapATIe UDatAM galane e dekhAya. jyAM e dekhAya tyAM enA upara paga TekavIne e UbhuM rahe. ApaNane lAge ke e pANImAM UbhuM che. paNa vastuta: e baraphanA nAnA TukaDA para UbhuM hoya. barapha ne bAju sarakato jAya te bAju e paNa UbhuM-UbhuM sarakatuM jAya. emAM ene bahu majA Ave.' dhruvapradezanAM pakSIonI A lAkSaNikatA jANIne mane bahu AnaMda thayo. thoDI vAra pachI kamAne acAnaka sTImaranI gati maMda karI nAMkhI. eNe mAikamAM kahyuM, 'tamane kadAca tarata nahi dekhAya, paNa dUra pelA Aisabarga para keTalAMka sIla ane dariyAI siMha (sea lion) beThAM che. ApaNe sTImara dhIme dhIme emanI pAse laI jaIzuM. koI bahu ghoMghATa karatA nahi. ghoMghATa sAMbhaLatAM te pANImAM cAlyAM jaze.' sTImara dhIme dhIme Aisabarga pAse sarakatI gaI ane ema karatAM ene aDIne UbhI rahI. sI-lAyana pahelAM to phATI AMkhe amArI sAme jotA rahyA. pachI amArI sAme ghUrakavA lAgyA. kUtarA jeTalI enI UMcAI haze ! keTalAke phoTA pADyA. sI-lAyana mAMhomAMhe laDavA lAgyA. dhakkAdhakkI karavA lAgyA ane eka pachI eka badhAe pANImAM jhaMpalAvyuM ane DUbakI mArI kayAMnA kayAM cAlyA gayA. sTImara AgaLa cAlI. eka himazilA upara oTarsa nAmanAM keTalAMka jaLacara beThAM hatAM. ekajhona TeMkaranA akasmAta pachI oTarsanI saMkhyA ghaNI ghaTI gaI che. jaLabilADI jevAM oTarsa lAge. te raMge kALAM athavA bhUkharAM hoya che. zveta barapha upara beThAM hoya to tarata dekhAI Ave. zilA upara caDaUtara karavuM emane bahu game. thoDI vAra pANImAM ane thoDI vAra barapha upara ema e ramyA kare. ekabIjA sAthe gela kare, dhakkAdhakkI kare, koIkane pANImAM dhakelI daI pachI upara pote paDe. amArI sTImara pAse AvatI joIne badhAM oTarse pANImAM DUbakI mArI. sIla e dhruvapradezanuM dariyAI prANI che. e paNa thoDI vAra pANImAM to thoDI vAra barapha upara ema doDAdoDa karyA kare. eka ThekANe buoy para caDIne traNa sIla sUI gayAM hatAM. sIlane AvuM gamatuM hovAthI ahIMnA adhikArIoe viliyama sAunDamAM evA keTalAka UMcA ane raMgIna 'boya' taratA mUkyA che. sIla pAse ame pahoMcyAM, paNa emaNe to jarAka AMkha kholIne joI laI potAnuM UMghavAnuM cAlu rAkhyuM, jANe amArI kazI paravA ja emane na hoya ! na amArI sTImara AgaLa cAlI. jema jema AgaLa jatAM gayAM tema tema pANImAM moTI himazilAonuM pramANa vadhatuM gayuM. nAnAmoTA bIjA to ghaNAbadhA TukaDAo pANImAM taratA hatA. baraphanA e TukaDAo sAthe bhaTakAtI sTImara have sAva maMda gatie AgaLa vadhatI gaI. kamAne kahyuM, 'ApaNe ApaNI sTImara TheTha kolaMbiyA gleziyarane

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1rara pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana aDADIne UbhI rAkhIzuM. kadAca kyAMka barapha sAthe bhaTakAvAne lIdhe AMcako Ave to sAcavajo. kazuMka jhAlIne UbhAM rahejo.' baraphanI moTI moTI zilAo vaccethI sTImara khasatI hatI tyAM moTo kaDaDaDa avAja thayo ane AMcako Avyo. kaptAne kahyuM, 'phikara karazo nahi. sTImarane kazuM thayuM nathI. ApaNI sTImara eTalI majabUta che. sTImaranA bhaTakAvAthI nIceno je barapha tUTyo che teno e avAja che.' thoDIka miniTomAM gleziyarane aDIne sTImara UbhI rahI. badhAM ja A dRzya jovA kaTheDA pAse AvI gayAM, sivAya ke UMghatI pelI be kaeNneDiyana vRddhAo. Azcaryavibhora thaI jaIe evuM adbhUta e dRzya hatuM. kolaMbiyA gleziyaranI gaNanA duniyAnI eka moTAmAM moTI gleziyara himanadI tarIke thAya che. lagabhaga aDhIso phUTanI UMcAIethI eno barapha nIce khasato khasato Ave che. nIce AvatAM potAnA vajananA bhArathI e dhaDAkA sAthe tUTI paDe ane dariyAnA pANImAM moTI moTI zilAo ThalavAtI jAya. unALAmAM sUryanI garamI ane dariyAnA pANInI uSNatAne lIdhe barapha ogaLe. emAM taDa paDatI jAya. e rIte roja sarerAza pacAseka Tana karatAM vadhu barapha pANImAM paDe. gleziyara upara UMce najara karatAM gala paMkhIono vAsa dekhAya. hajAro pakSIo Akho divasa satata UDatAM rahetAM hoya. thoDI thoDI vAre eka moTI ciciyArI thAya ane ekasAthe seMkaDo pakSIo UDI, dUra sudhI cakkara lagAvI AvIne pAchAM gleziyaranA barapha para bese. unALAmAM barapha ogaLavAnI prakriyA satata cAlu hoya. gleziyaranI najIkanuM nIcenuM pANI te ogaLelA baraphanuM pANI. te rojeroja vadhatuM jAya. te thoDe dUra jaI dariyAnA pANI sAthe joDAI jAya. A be prakAranAM pANI spaSTa dekhAya. baraphanuM pANI mIThuM. eno raMga zveta jevo jaNAya. A pANI sthira ane zAMta jaNAya. pavitra jaLa jevuM e lAge. samudranuM pANI khAruM ane bhAre. e pANIno raMga bhUrobhUkharo. emAM taraMgo, mojAMo UchaLe. A baMne pANIno bheda spaSTa dekhAya. sUryanA taDakAnI okaLIo dariyAnA pANImAM vadhu jaNAya. baraphanA pANImAM kiraNonuM pratibiMba paDe. paNa A baMne pANInI bhedarekhA to darzAvatA rahe baraphanA TukaDAo. e taratA taratA dariyAnA pANI pAse jAya ane tyAMnA bhAre pANIne lIdhe thoDI vAra AgaLa vadhatA aTake. AvA sekaDo TukaDAonI hAra eka cheDAthI bIjA cheDA sudhI laMbAyelI ane be pANIne vibhakta karatI jaNAya. amAre mATe A paNa eka jovA jevuM dRzya banI rahyuM hatuM. gleziyaranI mulAkAta laI amArI sTImara pAchI pharI. have kamAnane kazuM samajAvavAnuM nahotuM. te khAto jAya, kaoNphI pIto jAya ane sTImara haMkArato jAya. amArAmAMnAM ghaNAM pravAsIo UbhAM UbhAM thAkayAM hatAM. keTalAka kaeNbinamAM jaI jhokAM khAvA lAgyAM hatAM. pelI be vRddhAo to haju ghoratI ja hatI. emanA bhAI haju kaoNphI gaTagaTAvatA hatA.

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vAlDijha 1ra3 nirdhArita samaye sTImara vAlTijha pAchI AvI pahoMcI. DaoNka para UbhI rahI. kamAne kahyuM, 'dareke potAnI cIjavastuo yAda karIne laI levI, kAraNa ke aDadhA kalAkamAM ja sTImara pAchI bIjA rAunDa mATe UpaDe che.' badhAM UtaravA lAgyAM. pelI be mahilAone emanA bhAIe jagADI. AMkho coLatAM coLatAM emaNe bhAIne pUchyuM, 'kolaMbiyA gleziyarane have keTalI vAra che ?' 'kolaMbiyA gleziyara to AvyuM ane gayuM paNa kharuM. ApaNe pAchA vAlDijha AvI pahoMcyAM.' 'zI vAta karo cho ? majAka to nathI karatA ne ?' 'nA. sAcuM kahuM chuM. tame baMne bahu UMghyAM.' 'oha ! ame bahu dilagIra chIe. paNa tame jANo cho ne ke ApaNane rAtano keTalo ujAgaro thayo hato ! have zuM karIzuM ?' 'sTImara bIjA pherA mATe UpaDe che. pharIthI javuM che ?' 'hA, hA. kolaMbiyA gleziyara jovA mATe to ame AvyAM chIe.' 'to TikiTa laI AvuM ? bIjI vAra pAchAM UMdhI nahi jAva ne ?' 'nA, nA. have ema kema thAya ?' bhAI tarata TikiTa levA gayA. baMne mahilAo sTImaramAM besI rahI. sTImara choDI ame amArI hoTela para javA ravAnA thayAM. hoTela cAlIne javAya eTalI pAse ja hatI eTale ame cAlavA lAgyAM. ame vicAravA lAgyAM ke have e baMne mahilAo to cokkasa kolaMbiyA gleziyara joze, paraMtu emanA bhAI pharIthI dasabAra kapa kaoNphI pIze ke khAIne kaeNbinamAM jaI sUI jaze ? have sUvAno vAro emano hato ema amArA aMtare sAkSI pUrI.

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uDine yuropanA dezomAM ITalInI chApa kaMIka judA ja prakAranI che. bhUmadhya samudramAM paga laMbAvIne beThelA A pAzcAtya dezanI AbohavA judI che ane khAsiyato paNa judI che. aDhI hajAra varSa pahelAMnA ITalInA udAra, sazakta ane samRddha romana lokonA A vartamAnakAlIna UtaratI koTinA vArasadAro, bhagavAna mahAvIra ane bhagavAna buddhanI bhUmi bihAranA vartamAnakAlIna vArasadAronI yAda apAve evA kaMIka che evI sAcIkhoTI chApa keTalAkanAM manamAM che. 1971mAM romanA eNrapaoNrTa para huM Utarelo tyAre eNrapaoNrTanA majUrone durjanatAyukta aTTahAsya sAthe musApharonI baeNgo sIdhI nIce jamIna para pheMkatA joIne thayeluM ke AvI uDatA ane asaMskAritA to bhAratamAM paNa jovA nathI maLatI. ame jyAre ITalInA pravAse gayAM hatAM tyAre amane cetavavAmAM AvyAM hatAM ke iTalImAM pharavA jAo cho to dhyAna rAkhajo, cora loko che. tamArI pArka karelI baMdha kAramAMthI kyAre koIka tamArI kImatI vastuo taphaDAvI jaze te kahevAya nahi. tamArI DikImAMthI sAmAna UpaDI jaze. tame ajANyA cho evI khabara paDe eTale becAra mANaso tamArI pAchaLa lAgI jAya ane koIka vastu AMcakI jAya. tame ajANyA cho enI cADI to tamAro paheraveza ane tamAro cahero khAya ja. are, mAtra tamArI AMkho paNa e vAtane chatI karI de. tamane sAcavaNIno jeTalo mahAvaro hoya ethI vadhu mahAvaro corane corI karavAno hoya. corAyA pachI ja tane khabara paDe ke tamArI kyAM galata thaI gaI hatI.' * yuropanA iMglenDa, phrAnsa, jarmanI, beljiyama jevA dezonI sarakhAmaNImAM ITalImAM tyAre garIbI, bekArI, gaMdakI, corI vagerenuM pramANa vadhu hatuM. tyAM tyAre jUnI, ghasAyelI, phATelI noTo calaNamAM ghaNI hatI. ITalInuM calaNa te lIrA' (Lira). amane salAha maLI hatI ke lIrAnI nAnI rakamanI noTo bIjA dezamAM vaTAvavA jAo to koI hAthamAM pakaDatuM nathI. 'lIrA'nA lIrA thaI jAya che. tyAM calaNI sikkAne badale TeliphonanA mazInamAM nAkhavAnA sikkA apAya che, je tyAM cAle che, paNa ITalInI bahAra cAlatA nathI. ITalI choDIne bIjA dezamAM jaIe eTale calaNanuM thoDuMka nukasAna to thAya ja. koI paNa eka deza ke prajA vize ApaNA manamAM graMthi baMdhAI jAya pachI temAMthI chUTavuM saheluM nathI. kayAreka to uparAuparI anubhavo paNa ApaNI graMthinuM samarthana 124

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uDine 125 karavAvALA thAya, to bIjI bAju graMthine kAraNe sAdhAraNa anubhavomAMthI paNa ApaNane avaLuM ja dekhAya. ITalImAM amAre haju venisa, milAno vagere sthaLe pharavAnuM bAkI hatuM. mArA eka mitranI sAthe emanI kAramAM amAro pravAsa goThavAyo hato. eka sthaLe bhojana laI ame venisanI dizAmAM prayANa karyuM hatuM. keTaluMka aMtara kapAyA pachI mitre kahyuM, 'have koI zahera Ave to ApaNe thoDo vakhata thobhIne gADInI sarvisa karAvI laIe. mAIlomITara pramANe enI sarvisano vakhata thaI gayo che. ApaNe gADIno je vImo utarAvyo che enI zarata pramANe paNa have e kAma karAvI levuM joIe.' ame hAIve upara AvatAM borDamAM zaheronAM nAmo vAMcatA jatAM hatAM. tyAM borDa para vaMcAyuM UDine (UDNE) -trIsa kilomITara.' mitre kahyuM, 'uDine Ave eTale ApaNe zahera tarapha gADI laIe.' uDinenuM nAma sAMbhaLatAM ja mane kazuMka yAda AvyuM. meM kahyuM, 'A e uDine to nahi hoya ke jyAM thoDA mahinA pahelAM bhayaMkara dharatIkaMpa thayo hato ?' 'kadAca e sthaLa ja hoya. zaheramAM jaIne koIne pUchIzuM to khabara paDaze.' 'e hoya to seMkaDo mANasono bhoga lenAra dharatIkaMpanuM sthaLa ApaNane najare jovA maLaze.' uDine zaheranI nizAnI AvatAM amArI gADI hAIve choDIne vaLAMka laIne uDine tarapha cAlavA lAgI. dharatIkaMpa kyAM thayo che e vize pUchavAnI jarUra ja na rahI, kAraNa ke zaheramAM pahoMcatAM pahelAM ja, parAM vistAramAM ja paDI gayelAM hArabaMdha gharo gADImAM beThAM beThAM ja amane dekhAyAM - gADI UbhI rAkhI e sthaLanuM ame avalokana karyuM. mukhyatve garIba ke madhyama varganA lokonAM e gharo lAgyAM. bhAre dharatIkaMpa thAya tyAre thoDI sekaMDo ke miniTomAM ja seMkaDo-hajAro makAno DhaLI paDe che ane seMkaDo-hajAro mANaso ekasAthe prANa gumAve che. ITalInI A eka moTI karuNa ghaTanAnuM sthaLa amane najare jovA maLyuM. ghaNA divasa vItI gayA hatA chatAM jamInadosta thayelAM A gharono kATamALa khaseDI tyAM navesarathI bAMdhakAma karavAnI koI pravRtti cAlu thaI nahotI. koI mANaso tyAM dekhAtA nahotA. lokonI nabaLI Arthika sthiti ane sarakAranI maMdatAno vicAra karatAM karatAM ame gADImAM pAchAM beThAM. uDinemAM amAre kazuM kAma nahotuM. mAtra gADInI sarvisa karAvavA rokAvAnuM hatuM. mitre kahyuM, 'peTrolapaMpa para sarvisa karAvatAM doDheka kalAka lAgaze. tamAre tyAM besavuM hoya to bhale, nahi to jo tamAre zaheramAM pharavuM hoya to huM tamane evI koI madhya jagyAe laI jAu.'

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana peTrolapaMpa para besavA karatAM zaheramAM pharavAno vicAra amane vadhAre gamyo. uDinemAM jiMdagImAM bIjI vAra kayAre AvavAnuM thaze ? zaheranA madhya bhAga tarapha gADI cAlI. eka bAra pAse ame UtaryAM. meM mitrane pUchyuM, 'tame amane levA kyAM Avazo ?' raka punarmilananA sthaLanI barAbara cokasAI pahelethI karI levI sArI, nahi to goTALA thavAno saMbhava rahe. videzamAM ajANyA pradezamAM to enI ghaNI jarUra rahe. paDe mitre kahyuM, 'hA, sthaLa vyavasthita rIte vicArIne nakkI karI levuM sAruM. bhAratamAM to A gAya UbhI che tyAM ApaNe pAchA bhegA thaIzuM ema kahIne mANaso chUTA ane eTalI vAramAM to gAya kyAMya cAlI gaI hoya.' mitranI majAkano javAba ApatAM meM kahyuM, 'ane ahIM yuropamAM, 'A kALI gADI pAse pAchA maLazuM' ema nakkI karIe ane pAchA pharIe tyAM to e gADI kayAMya nIkaLI gaI hoya.' 'hA, eTale sthaLa to gerasamaja na thAya evuM pAkuM rAkhavuM joIe. ahIM koI moTA sTorsa pAse maLavAnuM rAkhI zakAya, jo samaya nizcita hoya to. paNa mane keTalI vAra lAgaze enI khabara nathI. vaLI vImAkaMpanInI kupana laI sarvisa karI Ape evo peTrolapaMpa mAre zodhavo paDaze.' 'ahIM gADI pArka karavAnI manAI che. eTale jyAM gADI pArka thaI zake evI jagyA nakkI karIe to sAruM.' meM kahyuM. 'ema karIe.....' mitre vicAra karIne kahyuM, 'hamaNAM ApaNe jyAMthI A sTrITamAM dAkhala thayA tyAM relavesTezana dekhAyuM hatuM.' 'hA, me paNa joyuM hatuM. ahIMthI pAchA pharIe eTale sTrITane nAke relavesTezana Ave che. tyAM pArkiMganI sagavaDa hoya ja.' 'basa, to e sTezananA daravAjA pAse doDheka kalAka pachI ApaNe maLavAnuM nakkI rAkhIe. nAnA zaheranuM nAnuM relavesTezana che eTale bIjI koI gerasamaja thavAno saMbhava nathI. mane ke tamane moDuM-vaheluM thAya to tyAM besavAnI sagavaDa haze ja ane bIjo lAbha e che ke tyAM TaoNileTa phrI haze. ahIM anya sthaLe bAtharUma javAnA paisA ApavA paDe che, paraMtu relavesTezanomAM eno koI cArja hoto nathI.' videzamAM pharatA hoIe ane videzI calaNa maryAdita hoya to AvA vicAro paNa Ave. mitre vidAya lIdhI ane ame pharavAnuM cAlu karyuM. kazuM kharIdavuM to hatuM ja nahi. mAtra najara karavI hatI ane samaya pasAra karavo hato. ame keTalAka sTorsamAM AMTA mAryA. dareka dezanI, keTalAMye zaheronI potAnI AgavI lAkSaNikatA hoya che. dukAnomAM vecAtI cIjavastuomAM paNa e jovA maLe. kutUhalathI huM keTalIka vastuo jovAmAM magna hato

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27 uDine tyAM mArAM patnIe kAnamAM mane kahyuM, 'hamaNAM tarata najara nahi karatA, paNa pachIthI dhyAna rAkhajo. ApaNI jamaNI bAju thoDe Adhe UbhelA be mANaso ApaNI pAchaLa pAchaLa Ave che.' thoDI vAra pachI meM najara karI. vAta sAcI hatI. ame jema jema khasIe tema tema teo paNa amArI tarapha khasatA AvatA hatA. cIjavastuo jovAno teo mAtra DhoMga karatA hatA. amArI sAme bhale jotA nahotA, paNa amArI pAchaLa pAchaLa cAlatA hatA e nakkI hatuM. AvuM jyAre thAya tyAre UMdhuM cakkara levAthI khAtarI thAya ke teo AgaLa vadhe che ke ApaNI jema teo paNa pAchA phare che. e khAtarI paNa thaI gaI. ame amArA pAsapaoNrTa ane DaoNlaranAM pAkITa mATe sabhAna thaI gayAM. pachI to jovApharavAno amAro utsAha maMda paDI gayo. eka vAra manamAM zaMkA janma pachI enA ja vicAro Ave. pradeza ajANyo, bhASA paNa AvaDe nahi. amane lAgyuM ke rastAmAM pharavuM enA karatAM relavesTezananA bAMkaDA para besavAmAM vadhAre salAmatI che. ame tyAM jhaDapathI pahoMcI gayAM. e ajANyA mANaso thoDe sudhI pAchaLa pAchaLa AvyA, pachI potAne raste cAlatA thayA. ame eka ciMtAmAMthI mukta thayAM. haju kalAka pasAra karavAno hato. thoDI thoDI vAre Trena AvatI. eTalI vAra thoDA musApharonI avarajavara rahetI. cAreka vAgyA haze evAmAM eka basa AvIne UbhI rahI. emAMthI ghaNAM yuvakayuvatI UtaryA. darekanA hAthamAM ekabe pustako hatAM. e parathI teo vidyArthI che ema jaNAyuM. basamAMthI UtarI teo plaeNTaphaoNrma para jatAM hatAM e parathI lAgyuM ke teo AsapAsanAM parAMomAM rahetAM haze. zikSaNanA amArA vyavasAyane kAraNe kyAMya paNa vidyArthIone joie to AnaMda thAya, paNa ahIM AnaMda nahi, udvega thayo. paMdara-vIsa varSanA A vidyArthIomAMnA ghaNA sigAreTanA dhumADA kADhatA jatA hatA. keTalIka vidyArthinIo paNa sigAreTa phUMkatI hatI. ATalI kumaLI vayamAM jo teo sigAreTanAM vyasanI thaI gayAM hoya to temanuM bhAvi kevuM hoI zake ? vaLI keTalAye vidyArthIo potAnI priya vidyArthinInA gaLAmAM hAtha bharAvI, praNayagoSThI karatAM jatA hatA. A pAzcAtya jagata che. ene bhAratIya najare na jovAya ema ame manane manAvyuM, topaNa iMglaeNnDa, phrAnsa, jarmanI, beljiyama ke sviTjharalaeNnDa karatAM ahIM svacchaMdatAnuM pramANa vadhu jovA maLyuM. eka pachI eka ema cAra basa AvI. e ja rIte vidyArthIo UtaratA gayA ane dhumADA kADhatA gayA. eTalI vAramAM to sUnuM plaeNTaphaoNrma vidyArthIothI khIcokhIca bharAI gayuM. thoDI vAre Trena AvI. emAM besavA mATe dhakkAdhakkI macI gaI. bhAratathI ApaNe bahu dUra nathI evo anubhava thayo. iTalI mATenI aprasannatA amArA cittamAM chavAI gaI.

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana vidyArthIonuM avalokana karavAmAM amAro samaya kyAM pasAra thaI gayo tenI khabara paDI nahi. bhASA AvaDe nahi eTale vAtacItanI zakyatA nahotI. koI koI sAthe mAtra smita jeTalo saMvAda thato. 18 vidyArthIonI vastI adazya thatAM sTezana pAchuM khAlIkhama lAgavA mAMDyuM. ghaDiyALamAM joyuM to mitrane AvavAnA samaya upara eka kalAka vadhu thaI gayo hato. thoDI vAra bahAra daravAjA pAse ane thoDI vAra bAMkaDA upara ema rAha jotAM ame pharatAM rahyAM ane bIjo eka kalAka thaI gayo. koIkanI rAha jovAnI paNa eka maryAdA hoya che. amuka samaya sudhI svasthatA rahe. pachI adhIrAI Ave ane pachI ciMtA thAya. ame adhIrAinA tabakkAmAMthI have ciMtAnA tabakkAmAM pravezI cUkayAM hatAM. doDha kalAkanuM kahIne gayelA mitra cAra kalAka sudhI AvyA nahi eTale amArI ciMtA vadhI gaI. ajANyo deza, aparicita sthaLa, bhASAthI ajANa. mitrano saMparka karavo hoya to kayAM karavo ? kayA peTrolapaMpa para gayA haze ? keTale dUra e haze ? koI samasyA UbhI thaI haze ? 'Ajano divasa ja Avo Ugyo che. kaMI majhA AvatI nathI.' mArAM patnIe kahyuM. 'AvuM to koI vAra thAya paNa kharuM.' AzvAsana ApatAM meM kahyuM, 'sAruM che ke sthaLanI bAbatamAM kaMI gerasamaja nathI thaI. nAnuM sTezana che. eka ja daravAjo che. moTAM sTezanomAM traNacAra daravAjA hoya ane ghaDiyALa nIce ApaNe maLIzuM ema nakkI karyuM hoya to pAMca ThekANe ekasarakhAM ghaDiyALa hoya....' eTale game teTaluM moDuM thAya paNa ApaNe sTezana choDavuM nathI. choDIne jaIe paNa kayAM ?' sAMja paDavA AvI hatI. unALAnA divaso hatA eTale aMdhAruM thayuM nahotuM. daravAjA pAse UbhA rahI pasAra thatI gADIo para ame najara nAkhatAM hatAM. gherA caoNkaleTI raMganI amArI gADI dUrathI paNa oLakhI zakAya evI hatI. amArI dhIraja khUTatI hatI, paNa gADI dekhAtI nahotI. evAmAM pAchaLathI mArA khabhA para koIe TapalI mArI. mitra ja hatA. bolyA, 'kharAM cho tame ! kema A bAju UbhAM cho ?' 'A bAju eTale ?' 'pula oLaMgI A bAju kaMI jovA AvyAM cho ?' 'kayo ? relaveno pula ? pula kyAM che e ja amane khabara nathI. ame to kayAranAM ahIM ja chIe.' 'tame kharekhara pula parathI A bAju nathI AvyAM ? huM to kayArano pelI bAju daravAjA pAse tamArI rAha joyA karuM chuM. ApaNe tyAM ja maLavAnuM nakkI karyuM hatuM ne ?' 'kaMIka garasamaja thaI lAge che. tame amane jyAM utAryA hatAM tyAMthI cAlatAM

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uDane 19 cAlatAM sIdhAM ahIM ja AvyAM chIe. amAre koI pula Avyo nathI. kadAca tame pula caDIne pelI bAju cAlyA gayA hazo.' 'nA, huM paNa pula caDyo nathI. hamaNAM caDIne A bAju Avyo te to tamane zodhavA mATe.' 'to pachI kema Ama thayuM ? tame kAramAM relaveno pula oLaMgyo haze !' mitra vicAramAM paDI gayA. temaNe kahyuM, 'banavA saMbhava che. Ama to pula uparathI kAra lIdhI hoya evuM yAda nathI. paNa peTrolapaMpa zodhavA mATe huM rAunDa mArato hato te daramiyAna moTarakAre kayAre relaveno pula oLaMgI lIdho haze tenI khabara rahI nahi hoya. peTrolapaMpa para sarvisa karAvI sTezananI nizAnI jotAM jotAM huM sTezane pahoMcyo, paNa huM tamane joyA nahi eTale AsapAsa sTorsamAM paNa AMTA mArI Avyo. kayAMya tamane joyA nahi. eTale pAcho Avyo. sTezana para sTAphanA sabhyane paNa pUchI joyuM ke koI bhAratIya daMpatI ahIM AvyuM che ? eNe nA kahI eTale vadhAre ciMtA thaI. koI khissAkAtaruno bheTo thayo hoya ane polIsanuM lapharuM thayuM hoya evuM to nahi banyuM hoya ne ? hamaNAM thoDI vAra pahelAM vicAra Avyo ke tame sTezananI bIjI bAju kaMI jovA to nahi gayAM ho ne ! pula caDI A bAju Avyo tyAM tamane joyAM eTale hAza anubhavI.' 'amane paNa tamArI ciMtA thatI hatI. tamane joIne zAMti thaI.' 'bhAre garabaDa thaI.' ame baMne sAthe bolI UThyA. bhUkha lAgI hatI eTale pahelAM eka resTorAMmAM gayAM. mitre kahyuM, 'ramaNabhAI ! have venisa pahoMcavAmAM bahu moDuM thaze. sArI sArI hoTelo bharAI jaze. mAruM mAno to rAta ahIM uDinemAM ja koI hoTelamAM rokAI jaIe.' emanI vAta ame saharSa svIkArI lIdhI. eka sarasa nAnI hoTelamAM ame UtaryAM. hoTelamAM amane je sarasa AvakAra maLyo, hoTelanA saMskArI maeNnejare ane vinayI sTAphe amAruM je dhyAna rAkhyuM ethI ame AkhA divasanI udvignatA pachI bahu prasannatA anubhavI. hoTelanA karmacArIoe iTalInA mANaso mATenA amArA pUrvagrahane bhUMsI nAkhyo.

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20 tobA - TApu jApAnamAM honzu ane zikoku e be moTA TApuo vacce AvelI vizALa khADImAM honmunA samudrakinAre tobA zahera AvyuM che. kalcarDa motI (uchereluM athavA pakaveluM motI)nI zodha karanAra mikimotonuM e janmasthAna che. tobA pAse Avelo 'gikimoto' nAmano nAnakaDo TApu motInA Pearl Island - tarIke jApAnamAM vikhyAta che. A mauktika dvIpanI mulAkAta mATe 1977mAM ame keTalAka mitro gayA hatA. motInA utpAdananA kSetre krAnti karI nAmAMkita bananAra mikimotonA A TApunA amArA pravAsanuM Ayojana jApAna TrAvela byuro dvArA thayuM hatuM. ame pacIseka pravAsIo oNsAkAthI TrenamAM besI be kalAke tobA pahoMcyA hatA. amArA pravAsI-grupamAM amerikana pravAsIonI saMkhyA vadhu hatI. tobA ise-zimA nezanala pArkanA pravezadvAra samuM gaNAya che. A vistAramAM parvatamALAnAM dazyo AkarSaka che. oNsAkAthI tobA sudhIno grAma vistArano Akho rasto hariyALAM vRkSothI nayanazItala lAgato hato. sAMja DhaLavA AvI hatI eTale prAkRtika dazya vadhu raLiyAmaNuM lAgatuM hatuM. tobAmAM amAro utAro tobA inTaranezanala hoTelamAM hato. sAMje pahoMcI, bhojana laI amAro kAryakrama tobA upasAgaramAM naukAvihAra karavAno hato, paraMtu havA acAnaka teja thaI gaI hatI ane vAtAvaraNamAM ThaMDI prasarI gaI hatI eTale ame amArA rUmamAM ja bharAI rahyA hatA. havAmAnakhAtA taraphathI AgAhI hatI ke bIje divase savAre havA haju vadhAre teja banaze ane varasAdanAM moTAM jhApaTAM paDavAno saMbhava raheze. motInA utpAdananAM jApAnanAM moTAM kSetromAM tobAnuM sthAna paNa mahattvanuM che. motInA vyavasAyamAM jApAna duniyAnA dezomAM agragaNya sthAna dharAve che. gaI sadImAM arabastAna (parziyana galphanA pradezo) ane cIna motI mATe prakhyAta hatAM ane Aje paNa emanuM sthAna che. e jamAnAmAM basarAnAM aMgura jevaDAM moTAM motIonuM mUlya ghaNuM aMkAtuM. have to motInuM utpAdana karanArA dezonI saMkhyAmAM ghaNo vadhAro thayo che ane rasAkasIbharI spardhA cAlI rahI che. jotAM ja prasannatA upajAve, varSo sudhI ghasAya nahi ke melI na thAya, dehalAvaNyamAM ane suzobhanomAM umero kare evI motI (muktAphaLa) jevI camakadAra vastunI jANa mAnavajAtane TheTha prAcInakALathI hatI. svAti nakSatramAM meghabiMdu chIpamAM paDe to te motI 130

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tobA rA thaI jAya evI lokamAnyatA paNa pracalita hatI. navaratnamAM motInI paNa gaNanA thatI. na kahovAya, na kathaLe, na kATa lAge evI kImatI dhAtu suvarNano upayoga alaMkArAdimAM thato tema auSadhAdimAM paNa thato. evI ja rIte hIrA, mANeka, nIlama, paravALAM vagerenI jema motInI bhasmano upayoga auSadhAdimAM thato Avyo che. TheTha prAcIna kALathI maMgaLamaya cIjavastuomAM motInI gaNanA paNa thayelI che. 'thALa bharI bharI motIDe vadhAvo' jevI kAvyapaMktio A mAMgalyanuM sUcana kare che. chIpalAmAM motI banAvanAra mAchalI mATe 'muktANukti' jevo zabda pracalita hato. hAthInA gaMDasthaLamAMthI jharato madda gaMDasthaLanI aMdara ja jyAre sukAIne nakkara nAnA goLa paththara jevo thaI jAya to temAMthI kyAreka motI jevI AkRti nIkaLe che. ene 'gajamauktika' kahe che. prAcIna samayamAM kImatI ratnomAM gajamauktikanI paNa gaNanA thaI che, paraMtu hAthIomAMthI koIkanA ja gaMDasthaLamAMthI mada kayAreka jhare che ane madajharatA evA ghaNA hAthIomAMthI koIkanA ja gaMDasthaLamAM motI thAya che. eTale ja kahevAyuM che ke 'mauktika na gaje gaje' ! eTale ja gajamautika jevI virala durlabha vastu paNa atyaMta zukanavaMtI manAI che. jUnA vakhatamAM motInI kiMmata bahu gaNAtI, kAraNa ke te alpa pramANamAM maLatAM. 'marajIvA hoya te motI laI Ave' evI kahevata amastI pracalita nahotI thaI. zvAsa rokI dariyAmAM DUbakI mArI dasapaMdara phUTa nIce taLiyethI motI zodhI lAvavAmAM jIvanuM jokhama rahetuM. DUbakI mAravA chatAM motI maLe ke na maLe, paNa rokelo zvAsa aMdara ja jo chUTI jAya ane pANI pivAI jAya to mRtyu paNa thatuM. mATe ja evA DUbakImArone 'marajIvA' kahevAmAM AvatA. tobAmAM hoTela tobA inTaranezanalamAM ame savAre UThyA tyAre AkAza vAdaLiyuM thaI gayuM hatuM. havA jorathI cAlatI hatI. nAstA vakhate amArI gAiDa yuvatIe kahyuM, 'atyAre bhAre pavana ane varasAdanI AgAhI che.' susavATAbharyA pavanane lIdhe vAtAvaraNamAM ThaMDI vadhI gaI hatI. kAryakrama nihALavA mATe amAre khullAmAM javAnuM hatuM eTale mAtra sveTara paheryuM nahi cAle, ovarakoTa paNa paheravo paDaze. ovarakoTa ane mAthe garama TopI paherI ame cAlyA DUbakImAra chokarIono kAryakrama nihALavA. mikimoto TApu para javA mATe ame basamAM beThA. amArI gAiDe amane sAcAM (Real) ane pakvelAM (Cultured) motI vize rasaprada mAhitI ApI. gAiDe kahyuM : oIsTara (Oyster) nAmanI mAchalI motI banAve che. hatheLI jeTalI athavA hatheLImAM mAya eTalI, chIpalAnI dAbaDImAM rahetI oNIsTara mAchalI jApAnanA dariyAmAM ghaNI thAya che. oNIsTara IMDAmAMthI janme tyArathI potAnA zarIranI vRddhi sAthe potAnA rakSaNa mATe chIpalAnI dAbaDI banAvavAnuM zarU karI de che. pachI kaThaNa paDavALI, laMbavartuLAkAra

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132 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana dAbaDImAM te purAI rahe che. mijAgarAvALI potAnI dAbaDIne te khUlavA detI nathI. mAtra moDhA AgaLa jarAka jeTalI jagyA khullI rahe che je vATe te potAno khorAka meLave che. kayAreka khorAka letI vakhate retIno bArIka kaNa je tenA moDhAmAM ke dAbaDImAM ghUsI Ave to te tene kheMce che. e caLa maTADavA mATe tenA mukhamAMthI lALa nIkaLe che. Ama retInA kaNanI AsapAsa tenA zarIramAMthI je cakita srAva thAya che tenAM paDa upara paDa sukAtAM ane jAmatAM jAya che ane ema karatAM amuka vakhate te motI banI jAya che. oNIsTara mAchalI sAmAnya rIte uSNa athavA samazItoSNa tApamAnavALA chIcharA dariyAmAM taLiye thAya che. taLiyuM khaDakALa hoya ke retInuM hoya che. chIpalAmAM rahelI A mAchalI jyAM chIpaluM paDyuM hoya tyAM ja paDI rahe che. mojAMnA pravAhathI te kyAreka Amatema ghasaDAya che, paNa mAchalIne potAnAmAM gati karavAnI zakti nathI hotI. oIsTara mAchalI pANImAM rahe che, paNa te pANImAM Amatema taratI nathI. IsTara mAchalInI pacAsathI vadhu judI judI jAti che. arabastAna, cIna, jApAna, AphrikA, oNsTreliyA, madhya amerikAnA TApuo, bhArata vagere ghaNA dezomAM te thAya che, paraMtu temAMthI amuka prakAranI mAchalI ja motI banAve che. bIjI badhI motI banAvatI nathI. motI banAvavAvALI jAtinI paNa badhI ja IsTara motI banAve evuM nathI. jenA zarIramAM kaMI khUMce evo padArtha AvI jAya te ja motI banAve che. jUnA vakhatamAM to evI mAchalI AyuSya pUrNa thatAM mRtyu pAme ane pANInA pravAhathI enI chIpalA-dAbaDI khUlI jAya ane temAMthI nIkaLI gayeluM motI dariyAnA taLiye paDyuM rahe. evA dariyAmAM marajIvA DUbakI mArI mUThImAM retI-chIpalAM laIne bahAra Ave to emAMthI motI maLe to maLe. e meLavavA mATe mAchalIne mArI nAkhavAmAM AvI na hoya. - IsTara sAmAnya rIte dariyAnA pAMcapaMdara phaTa UMDA khArA pANImAM thAya che, paraMtu mIThA pANI(Fresh water)mAM e na thAya evuM nathI. cIne potAnAM taLAvomAM ane keTalIka nadIonAM mIThAM pANImAM oIsTara ucherI che. mIThA pANInI oNIsTara khArA pANImAM jIvI na zake. jevuM oNIsTaranuM kada ane jevI enI jAti te pramANe te nAnuM-moTuM ane zveta raMganuM athavA AchA pILA, AchA gulAbI ke AchA leTiyA raMganuM motI banAve. mIThA pANInI keTalIka oNIsTara saheja kharabacaDA vaLAMkavALAM motI banAve che je bilAku' tarIke oLakhAya che. motImAM goLa (Sphere), ghaMTa (Bell) ane jalabiMdu(Drop)nA AkAranAM motI vadhu pracalita che. aDadhiyAM, baTana jevAM motI paNa bane che. ame mikimoto TApu para pahoMcyAM. amAre pahelAM DUbakImAra chokarIonuM kAma jovAnuM hatuM. tobAnA upasAgara AgaLa eka sthaLe plaeNTaphaoNrma jevuM banAvavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. tyAMthI daseka phUTa nIce samudra hato. ame badhAM hArabaMdha UbhAM rahI gayAM. sADAnava

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tobA 133 vAgyA ane eka sTIma laoNMca AvIne sAva najIka UbhI rahI. emAMthI eka pachI eka ema cha chokarIoe samudranA pANImAM jhaMpalAvyuM. chokarIoe paga sudhIno lAMbo paheraveza paheryo hato. mAthe TopI paherelI hatI. kamare eka doraDuM bAMdhyuM hatuM ane AThadasa phUTa lAMbA e doraDAne cheDe lAkaDAno goLa moTo Topalo pANImAM tarato rahe ane chokarI pANImAM nIce DUbakI mArI, hAthamAM oNIsTara laI pANInI sapATI upara Ave ane potAnA TopalAmAM te oNisTara nAkhe. Topalo Agho na cAlyo jAya mATe doraDAthI bAMdhelo rahe. ame gAiDane pUchyuM ke 'A kAma mATe nAnI chokarIo ja kema pasaMda karavAmAM Ave che !' gAiDe kahyuM, 'puruSo A kAma na karI zake evuM nathI, paraMtu A vyavasAyamAM spardhA ghaNI che. eTale sastA dare majUrI karavA mATe AvI nAnI chokarIo maLI rahe che. ekaMdare madhyama varganI A chokarIo hoya che. nAnI ane sazakta hovAthI pANImAM ghaNA kalAka taravAno ane DUbakI mAravAno thAka temane ocho lAge.' gAiDa amane samajAvatI hatI. DUbakI mAranArI chokarIone DUbakI mAravAnI sUcanA apAya eTalI vAramAM to kALAM DibAMga vAdaLAM AkAzamAM UmaTI AvyAM ane acAnaka ja tUTI paDyAM. dhodhamAra varasAda cAlu thaI gayo. ame badhAM pravAsIo doDIne pAsenA makAnamAM bharAI gayAM. varasAda vadhavA lAgyo. joradAra pavananA susavATA thavA lAgyA. sAthe sAthe vIjaLInA kaDAkA paNa zarU thaI gayA. vAdhAjhoDA jevuM vAtAvaraNa thaI gayuM. ame salAmata sthaLe bharAI gayAM, paNa ThaMDA pANImAM pelI DUbakImAra chokarIonuM zuM thatuM haze e vicAre ame asvastha thaI gayA. gAiDe kahyuM, 'enI phikara na karo. amArI A chokarIo AvI muzkelIbharI paristhitithI TevAI gaI hoya che.' vIjaLInA kaDAkA vadhavA mAMDyA. amArI sAthenI keTalIka amerikana vRddha mahilAonA caherA para gabharATanI nizAnI jaNAtI hatI. vAdaLAM, varasAda, vAyu ane vIjaLI e 'va'thI zarU thatA zabdoe bIjA be zabdone paNa vega Apyo - vyAkuLatA ane vyathA. lagabhaga pacIseka miniTa vAvAjhoDA jevI sthiti cAlI. chevaTe pavana dhImo paDyo. vAdaLAM vIkharAvAM lAgyAM. vIjaLInA kaDAkA baMdha thaI gayA. amane thayuM ke have chokarIono kAryakrama baMdha raheze, paNa gAiDe kahyuM ke 'nA, e cAlu ja raheze.' have thoDA thoDA chAMTA paDatA hatA. ame bahAra nIkaLyAM. amane darekane raMgaberaMgI chatrI ApavAmAM AvI. ame pAchAM plaeNTaphaoNrma para pahoMcyAM. joyuM to samudramAM DUbakImAra chokarIo potapotAnA TopalA sAthe taratI hatI. chokarIo nAnI hatI, paNa pharaja mATenI jAgRti emanAmAM ghaNI moTI hatI. chokarIonI pharajaniSThA nihALI ame temane manomana dhanyavAda ApI

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134 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana rahyAM. peTane khAtara kumaLI kanyAone kevA kaparA saMjogomAM kALI majUrI karavI paDe che e joI emanA pratye anukaMpAno bhAva paNa mArA manamAM jAgI gayo. sUcanA maLatAM chokarIo zvAsa rokI, DUbakI mArI, oIsTara lAvI, potAnA TopalAmAM nAkhavA lAgI. pANImAMthI bahAra sapATI para AvatAM pharI lAMbo zvAsa letI vakhate emanAM moDhAMmAMthI sisoTI jevo maMda, gaMbhIra avAja nIkaLato hato. e prakAranI khAsa tAlIma teone ApavAmAM AvI hoya che. - DUbakImAra kanyAono kAryakrama pUro thayo. gAIDa yuvatI amane TApu para bIjA eka sthaLe laI gaI. tyAM kokicI mikimotonI kAMsAmAMthI banAvelI UbhI, hAthamAM lAkaDI sAthenI, jADo ovarakoTa ane TopI paherelI pratimA eNe batAvI. mikimatonA caherA para khaDatalapaNuM ane nizcayanI makkamatA jaNAtAM hatAM. mikimatono paricaya ApatAM gAIDe kahyuM : "thoDI vAra pachI ApaNe kalyarDa motI banAvavAnI Tekanika jovA jaIzuM. e TekanikanI zodha kokicI mikimotoe karI hatI. emano janma ahIM tobAmAM 1858mAM thayo hato. meMdAnI seva banAvIne vecavAno dhiMdho karanAra eka sAdhAraNa sthitinA jApAnI vepArInA teo sauthI moTA dIkarA hatA. teo pitAnI dukAnamAM kAma karI pitAne sahAya karatA hatA. nAnapaNathI ja teo svapnasevI hatA ane kazuMka karavAnI tamannAvALA hatA. tobAnA dariyAkinAre oNIsTara mAchalImAMthI motI nIkaLatAM, paNa te keTalAM badhAM ochAM ane keTalI badhI moMdhI kiMmate vecAya ! atizaya zrImaMta strIo ja motI pahere. potAnA jevA sAdhAraNa kuTuMbanI strIone motI paheravA na maLe. mikimatone thayuM ke A barAbara na kahevAya. mikimatone vicAra Avyo ke evuM kaMI na thaI zake ke jethI duniyAmAM sarerAza badhI strIone motI paheravA maLe ? paraMtu e mATe to motInuM utpAhna vadhavuM joIe. paNa e kevI rIte vadhe ? motI to koIka ja oNIsTara banAve. badhI oIsTara motI kema na banAvI zake ? tevIsa varSanA yuvAna mikimoto potAnA phAjala samayamAM dariyAkinAre besIne avalokana karavA lAgyA. kevI oNIsTara kyAre ane kevI rIte motI banAve che enuM nirIkSaNa rojeroja karatA rahyA. pachI to meMdAnI seva banAvavA karatAM IsTara, motI, chIpalAM e badhAMmAM emane vadhu rasa paDavA lAgyo. potAnA saMzodhana ane avalokana mATe te jApAnanA samudrakinAre ghUmI vaLyA. dakSiNamAM dUra dUra TheTha okinAvA TApu sudhI pharI vaLyA. dareka sthaLethI kothaLA bharIbharIne teo jAtajAtanAM chIpalAM letA Ave ane te badhAMnuM nirIkSaNa kare. Ama potAnA saMzodhanaprayogo thatA rahyA, paNa pariNAma kazuM Ave nahi. ghaNI vAra teo nirAza thaI, mAthe hAtha daI besI rahe. prayogo choDI devAno vicAra kare. vaLI pAcho daDha nizcaya karI utsAhavaMta thaI prayogo cAlu rAkhe. ema karatAM karatAM eka-be nahi, bAra varSa vItI gayAM. eka divasa, 11mI julAI 1893nA roja

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tobA 135 mikimotoe potAnA prayoga mATenI eka oNIsTara mAchalInI chIpalA-dAbaDI kholI to emAMthI motI nIkaLyuM. duniyAnuM pahelavaheluM e kalcarDa motI ! motInA jagatamAM eka moTI krAnti thaI. mANasa dhAre to IsTara pAse potAnI IcchA pramANe motI banAvaDAvI zake, mikimotonA AnaMdano pAra na rahyo. paraMtu mikimatono prayoga saMpUrNa saphaLa thayo na hato, kAraNa ke chIpalAmAMthI motI kADhyuM tyAre te uparathI vartuLAkAra paNa nIcethI capaTuM hatuM. ethI mikimotoe nirAzA ane AzA sAthe anubhavyAM. nirAza eTalA mATe ke bAra varSanI mahenata pachI AkhuM motI banyuM na hatuM ane AzA eTalA mATe ke paddhati hAtha lAgI gaI che eTale aDadhAmAMthI AkhuM motI banAvatAM have bIjAM bAra varSa nahi lAge. mikimatonA prayogo vadhI gayA ane thoDA vakhatamAM ja AkhuM goLa motI banatuM thaI gayuM. gAIDe amane 11mI julAI 1893nI yAdagIrI rUpe eka sthaLe motInI eka vizALa pratikRti banAvIne khullAmAM mUkavAmAM AvI che te batAvI. mikimotoe ekaThAM karelAM hajAro chIpalAMonuM saMgrahasthAna ame joyuM. mikimoto kyAM kyAM, kayAre kyAre gayA ane emaNe kevA kevA prayogo karyA eno sacitra ItihAsa amane batAvavAmAM Avyo. tyAra pachI amane kalyarDa motI mATenI prayogazALAmAM laI javAmAM AvyAM. eka jApAnI yuvatIe amane prayoga batAvyo. pANIthI bharelA eka vAsaNamAMthI eNe eka oIsTara kADhI. chIpa kholIne aMdara rahelI mAchalInAM zarIrane khotarIne enA snAyumAMthI rAI karatAM paNa nAnA dANA jeTalo TUkaDo aNIdAra cIpiyAthI kADhI lIdho. e mAchalI mRtyu pAmI. tyAra pachI eNe pANImAMthI bIjI oNIsTara kADhI. enI chIpa-dAbaDIne jarAka jeTalI pahoLI karIne cIpiyA vaDe pelo dANo mAchalInA zarIramAM khosI dIdho ane dAbaDI baMdha karI tarata e oIsTara nizAnI karelA vAsaNanA pANImAM mUkI dIdhI. e jIvatI rahelI mAchalI varasa karatAM paNa vadhu vakhata pachI jyAre motI banAvI raheze tyAre pANImAMthI ene kADhI emAMthI motI kADhI levAmAM Avaze. tyAre e mAchalI paNa mRtyu pAmaze. Ama eka motI mATe be mAchalIno bhoga levAya che. bIjI mAchalInA snAyunA dANAne badale mazInamAM banAvelo nakalI dANo bharAvI devAmAM Ave to eka ja mAchalI mRtyu pAme che. kaI mAchalImAM keTalo moTo dANo bharAvavo ane tArIkha lakhI pANImAM keTalo vakhata mAchalIne rAkhavI e Tekanikano ghaNo vikAsa thayo che. 1893mAM mikimotoe pakavelAM motInI zodha karI tyAra pachI vepArI dhoraNe A Tekanikano ghaNo vikAsa thayo. pachI to mAtra jApAna ja nahi, duniyAnA ghaNA dezomAM motI pakavavAnuM, kalyarDa motI banAvavAnuM cAlu thaI gayuM. 1954mAM 96 varSanI vaye mikimatonuM avasAna thayuM tyAM sudhImAM to duniyAmAM ghaNI mahilAo sudhI motI emaNe pahoMcatAM karI dIdhAM. motI paheravA mATe dhanADhya hovuM have jarUrI na rahyuM. mikimatonuM svapna sAkAra thayuM.

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- pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana ame gAiDane pUchyuM, 'sAcAM motI ane pakavelAM motI vacceno pharaka kevI rIte jANI zakAya ?' 'bahu agharuM che e. sAmAnya mANasane enI samaja na paDe. rAtaddivasa motInuM kAmakAja karanAra mANasone mahAvarAthI enI tarata khabara paDe. jo motIno bhAMgIne bhukko karavAmAM Ave ane emAMthI dANo nIkaLe to e kalcarDa motI. paNa e kasoTI karavA jatAM tame tamAruM motI gumAvI beso.' 136 DomAra chokarIonI pravRtti ane kalcarDa motI banAvavAnI prakriyA joI, hoTelamAM baporanuM bhojana laI ame oNsAkA tarapha ravAnA thayA. rastAmAM ame jApAnanA prAcIna zinTo dharmanuM ise jiMgunA nAmathI oLakhAtuM maMdira joyuM. emArI Trena have oNsAkA tarapha cAlI rahI hatI. huM vicAre caDI gayo hato. motIne mATe jApAnamAM rojanI karoDo mAchalIone mArI nAkhavAmAM AvatI haze ! duniyAbharanA motInA utpAdanano vicAra to ahiMsAvAdIone kamakamAvI mUke evo che. duniyAnI mahilAone sastA bhAve sarasa motI sulabha karI ApavAnuM mikimotonuM svapna phaLyuM, paNa e mATe rojeroja karoDo mAchalIone potAnA prANa daI devAnuM thayuM e keTalI moTI viSama karuNatA kahevAya ! vepArI jagata A ghaTanAne eka rIte joze ane jIvadayAvALA bIjI rIte joze. teo kaheze ke tobAnI zodhe matsyajagatane tobAha pokArAvI dIdhI che ! motInA A vepAramAM ahiMsAmAM mAnavAvALA jaino moTI saMkhyAmAM che e vaLI bIjI karuNatA nathI ? kalcarDa motInI zodha thaI nahotI ane videzathI AvatAM motImAM mAchalInI hiMsA thAya che evI jANakArI jyAre na hatI tyAre jaino e vyavasAyamAM paDelA, paraMtu have jyAre jANakArI che tyAre teo potAnA kartavyano vicAra na karI zake ? sAcAM ane kalcarDa motInI A pravRtti uttarottara vadhatI ja cAlI che. have ene aTakAvI zakAze ? atyAre to zakaya ja nathI. ApaNe have bIjA mikimotonI rAha joIzuM ke je kAca jevA padArthamAMthI mazIna dvArA eTalAM badhAM vaividhyasabhara sArAM AkarSaka motI banAvI Ape ke jenI AgaLa sAcAM ane kalcarDa motI kacarA jevAM lAge ! mArI vicArayAtrA cAlatI hatI tyAM amArI TrenanI yAtrA pUrI thavA AvI. oNsAkA UtarIne ame sau pravAsIo potapotAnA sthAna tarapha vidAya thayAM.

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tibilisI sAviyeTa yuniyananuM visarjana thayuM te pahelAM ame keTalAka bhAratIya pravAsIo jyorjiyAnA pATanagara tibilisI(Tibilisi)nA pravAse gayA hatA. jyorjiyA tyAre soviyeTa yuniyananuM eka sabhyarAjya hatuM. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM raziyAnuM varcas hatuM. yuropanA dezomAM, eka bAju kALo samudra ane bIjI bAju kAspiyana samudra. e benI vacce AvelA, kokesasa parvatamALAvALA jyorjiyAnuM mahattva bhaugolika temaja sAMskRtika dRSTie viziSTa prakAranuM rahyuM che. tibilisI enuM prAcIna aitihAsika pATanagara che. duniyAnAM keTalAMka zaheronuM bhaugolika, sAmAjika, sAMskArika, Arthika ane saMrakSaNAtmaka daSTie eTaluM badhuM mahatva hoya che ke rAjyasattA taraphathI rAjadhAnI tarIke enI pasaMdagI thayA pachI, rAjyasattAmAM parivartano thAya topaNa saikAo sudhI rAjadhAnI tarIke enuM mahattva eTaluM ne eTaluM ja svIkArAyeluM rahe che. duniyAmAM hAla jeTalAM prAcIna nagaro che tenI sarakhAmaNImAM eTalAM prAcIna pATanagaro nathI. topaNa aDhItraNa hajAra ke tethI vadhu varSanAM prAcIna pATanagaro hAla paNa che. keTalAMka pATanagaronAM nAma enAM e rahe che, paNa najIka najIkanA vistAramAM enuM sthaLAntara thatuM rahe che. keTalAMka pATanagara enA e ja sthaLe rahe che, paNa enAM nAmomAM pheraphAro thayA kare che. keTalAMkanAM nAma ane sthaLa eTalAM ja prAcIna jovA maLe che. keTalAMka pATanagara pATanagara maTI sAmAnya nagara banI jAya che. sattAonI caDatI paDatI thavA chatAM ane sthaLa AghuMpAchuM thavA chatAM IsavIsananA cothA pAMcamA saikAthI tibilisI jyorjiyAnuM pATanagara rahyuM che. Ama to tibilisInA A pradezamAM lokono vasavATa pAMca-cha hajAra varSathI cAlyo Avato hovAnuM manAya che, paraMtu rAjyanA vaDA mathaka tarIkenI mahattA ane cothA saikAnI pUrve maLI hoya evo nirdeza kyAMya maLato nathI. prAcIna samayamAM pAMcamA saikAmAM, mAtra pUrva jyorjiyAmAM, 'AIbiriyA' nAmanuM rAjya hatuM tyAre tenI rAjadhAnI tibilisI hatI evo ullekha maLe che. A zaheranI samRddhi eTalI badhI hatI ke dveSa ane IrSyAthI paDozI rAjyoe - Arabo, parziyano, turkI, moMgolo, bAIjhanTAIna vageree - bhUtakALamAM vAraMvAra tibilisI upara AkramaNo karyA hatAM. I.sa. 1795mAM parziyana sainikoe tibilisI para caDhAI karIne ene sAva pAyamAla karI nAkhyuM hatuM, paraMtu khamIravaMtI jyorjiyana prajA 137

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138 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana pAchI beThI thaI gaI hatI. I.sa. 1801mAM jyorjiyAe paDozI rAjya raziyA sAthe maitrI karI lIdhI hatI. 1917mAM raziyAmAM krAnti thayA pachI soviyeTa yuniyananI racanA thaI ane eno vistAra thayo, tyAra pachI 1936mAM jyorjiyA soviyeTa yuniyanamAM joDAI gayuM hatuM. soviyeTa yuniyananuM visarjana thatAM have jyorjiyA pharI svataMtra rASTra banyuM che. tibilisInuM jUnuM nAma tiphalisa (Titlis) hatuM. tiphalisano eka artha thAya che hUMphALuM'. A zaheranI AbohavA parathI e nAma paDyuM che. ahIM na sakhata ThaMDI paDe ane na sakhata garamI paDe. kurA nadInA kAMThe vaseluM ane kokesasa parvatanI khINamAM AveluM A zahera naisargika rIte paNa saMrakSaNa pAmeluM che. Ama to mAtra tibilisI ja nahi, samagra jyorjiyAnI AbohavA ghaNI sarasa che. ethI lokonuM Arogya ekaMdare kudaratI rIte ja sAruM rahe evuM che. A ArogyasaMvardhaka AbohavAne kAraNe ja duniyAmAM zatAyu bhogavatA sauthI vadhu mANaso jyorjiyAmAM jovA maLe che. ema kahevAya che ke jyorjiyAmAM dara eka lAkha mANase pa3 jeTalA mANaso 100 varSathI vadhu umaranA hoya che. paMdara lAkhanI vastI dharAvatA tibilisImAM amAro utAro zaheranA madhya bhAgamAM AvelI hoTela AdayArA(Adjara)mAM hato. e bahumALI hoTelamAM pravezatAM ja enA karmacArIoe umaLakAthI amAruM svAgata karyuM. ame sau potapotAnI rUmamAM pahoMcI gayAM. dareka rUmamAM eka bAjunI AkhI dIvAla kAcanI hatI. tyAMthI sAva nIcenuM dazya paNa dekhAya ane dUra dUranuM dazya paNa jovA maLe, paraMtu navAI lAge evuM dazya to e hatuM ke samaDI jevAM seMkaDo kALAM pakSIo satata UDAUDa karatAM hatAM. amane jANavA maLyuM ke e sthaLAMtara karanArAM (Migrating) pakSIo hatAM. keTalAka divasa pahelAM e AvyAM che ane thoDA divasamAM cAlyAM jaze. sthaLAMtara karanArAM pakSIonI eka khAsiyata e hoya che ke teo Akho divasa UDavAno mahAvaro rAkhatAM hoya che. hoTelamAM thoDo ArAma karI ame basamAM nagaradarzana mATe nIkaLyA. amArI gAIDa jyorjiyana yuvatI hatI. te iMgliza sAruM bolatI hatI. enuM nAma hatuM kelinA. kelinA amane jyorjiyAno ItihAsa samajAvatI gaI. nagaradarzananA kAryakramamAM ame yunivarsiTI joI, jyorjiyana sAyansa ekeDemI joI, myujhiyama joyuM ane sTelina pArka joyo. baporanA bhojana pachI amane dArU banAvanArA kArakhAnAmAM laI javAmAM AvyA. ame tyAM pahoMcavA AvyA tyAM ja dArUnI tIvra vAsa AvavA lAgI. kelinAe kahyuM ke 'jyorjiyAnI viziSTatA e che ke duniyAmAM jude jude sthaLe maLIne hajAreka jAtanI drAkSa thAya che emAMnI lagabhaga pAMcaso jAtanI drAkSa phakta amArA jyorjiyAmAM thAya che. ATalI badhI jAtanI drAkSa duniyAnA koI paNa eka ja dezamAM thatI nathI. drAkSanA kSetramAM paDelA amArA mANaso navI navI jAtanI drAkSa ugADavAnA prayatno satata karatA ja rahe

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139 tibilisI che. dArUnA vyavasAyane kAraNe ja drAkSanA prakAra ane guNavattAno ahIM vikAsa thayo che. amArA dezamAM jAtajAtanA dArU thAya che. keTalIka jAtanA dArU phakta jyorjiyAmAM ja bane che. madhapAnano zokha amArA lokone ghaNo ja che, paNa zarAba pIne, vadhu paDato nazo karIne rastAmAM lathaDiyAM khAtA ke pIdhelI hAlatamAM paDelA mANaso tamane jovA nahi maLe. amArA lokonI mAnyatA evI che ke jema bIjAne sigAreTa ApavAthI dostI baMdhAya che, tema bIjAne dArU pivaDAvavAthI ke dArUnI bATalI bheTa ApavAthI maitrI sthapAya che. tyAra pachI amane dArUnI jaMgI vakhAramAM laI javAyA. tyAM vividha prakAranA dArUnAM moTAM moTAM pIpa jovA maLyAM. ahIMthI ghaNo dArU videzomAM paNa jAya che. jyorjiyAnI A eka moTI lAkSaNiktA amane jovA maLI. dArUnuM kendra joI ame AgaLa cAlyA. rastAmAM eka pUtaLuM batAvI gAIDe kahyuM, A jyorjiyana mAtAnuM pUtaLuM che. enA eka hAthamAM talavAra che ane bIjA hAthamAM dArUnuM pAtra che. talavAra dumano mATe che ane dArU mitro mATe che. talavAra yuddhanuM pratIka che ane dArU maitrInuM pratIka che. amArI jyorjiyana mAtA paDozI rAjyone kahe che ke je tame amArI sAthe zatrutA rAkhazo to tame amArA khagano svAda cAkhazo ane jo tame amArI sAthe premabharI maitrI rAkhazo to tamane amArI uttama prakAranI kImatI madirAnuM pAna karavA maLaze. - A pUtaLuM joIne duniyAnI dareka prajA potAnA viziSTa prAkRtika saMyogo ane dilanI bhAvanA anusAra kevAM kevAM pratIkonI racanA kare che teno khyAla Avyo. pAchA pharatAM amArI basa prANIbAga pAse UbhI rahI, kelinAe kahyuM, 'tibilisInA A prANIbAgamAM pahelAM to sADAtraNaso jeTalAM judAM judAM prANIo hatAM. have to mAMDa pacAsa jeTalAM prANIo paNa rahyAM nathI. enA nibhAva mATe sarakAra pAse eTalAM nANAM hAla nathI. tamArAmAMthI jeone prANIbAga jevo hoya te UtarI zake che. potapotAnI anukULatA pramANe joIne teo hoTela para AvI zake che. ahIMthI cAlIne jaI zakAya eTalA aMtare hoTela AvI che. jeone prANIbAga na jovo hoya teo basamAM besI rahe. ame teone hoTela para utArI daIzuM." ame keTalAka prANIbAga jovA UtaryA. atyaMta vizALa jagyAmAM Avelo prANIbAga enA pravezadvAra AgaLa ja nisteja ane ujjaDa lAgato hato. jyAM jyAM prANIo hatAM evA thoDA vistAramAM ame pharI vaLyA. enI khAsa koI viziSTatA amane jaNAI nahi. sthAnika loko paNa A prANIbAga jevA AvatA nathI evI chApa amArA mana para paDI. je thoDA AvyA hatA te prANIone jovA mATe nahotA AvyA. A vizALa udhAnamAM saMtAIne besavA mATe yuvayuvatIone sArI anukULatA maLatI hatI.

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140 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana | tibilisImAM ame jude jude sthaLe pharyA. tyAra pachI bIjA divase amane vIseka kilomITara dUra jUnI rAjadhAnI jovA laI javAmAM AvyA. DuMgaromAMthI pasAra thatA e rastAnI baMne bAjunAM hariyALAM dazyo nayanane bharI de evAM hatAM. A rasto jUnA vakhatamAM kokesasa parvatamALAmAM lazkaranI daSTie banAvavAmAM Avyo hato. eTale Aje paNa enuM nAma 'miliTarI hAIve' ja rahyuM che. jUnA tibilisImAM rAjamahela ane bIjA AvAso amane jovA maLyA. bhUtakALanI bhavyatAno khyAla e bhagnAvazeSo ApatA hatA. keTalIka ImArato haju akhaMDita hatI. tibilisI prAcIna samayamAM enAM devaLo mATe paNa jANItuM hatuM. ahIM paMdaraso varSa jUnA 'jhiyona' nAmanA devaLanA avazeSo che ane caudaso varSa jUnA seTa DeviDa nAmanA devaLanA avazeSo paNa che. ahIM eka devaLa kraoNsacarca(Cross-Church)nA nAmathI paNa oLakhAya che. enI kiMvadaMtI evI che ke jyAre jyorjiyA bAju haju khristI dharmano pracAra nahoto thayo tyAre jyorjiyAmAM phakata eka ja mahilA Izu khristamAM daDha zraddhA dharAvatI hatI. e mahilAnA avasAna pachI enA zabane je jagyAe daphanAvavAmAM AvyuM tyAM vakhata jatAM eka vRkSa UgyuM hatuM. e vRkSa camatkArika manAvA lAgyuM. pachI to lokomAM evI mAnyatA vahetI thaI ke e vRkSano sparza karavAthI navI zakti maLe che; roga thayo hoya to te paNa maTI jAya che. A rogazAmaka vRkSano sparza karavA mATe ghaNA loko AvavA lAgyA. ghaNe dUrathI je loko AvI zakatA nahotA teo vRkSanI nAnI DALakhI magAvatA. ema karatAM karatAM keTalAka loko DALakhIne badale emAMthI nAno kraoNsa banAvIne laI javA lAgyA. A rIte e vRkSanuM nAma kraoNsa vRkSa (CrossTree) paDI gayuM. tyAM AvanArA loko mATe pachI eka devaLa baMdhAvavAmAM AvyuM. e devaLanuM nAma paNa 'Cross-Church paDI gayuM. vakhata jatAM tyAM vRkSa na rahyuM, paNa devaLa to rahyuM. - A badhA avazeSonI mulAkAta lIdhA pachI ame thoDe dUra AvelI eka TekarI paranA prAcIna devaLamAM gayA. bahArathI jUnA lAgatA e devaLamAM aMdaranI badhI racanA vyavasthita rIte sacavAyelI hatI. ame gayA tyAre keTalAka pAdarIo tyAM dhArmika vidhi karI rahyA hatA. devaLamAM vIjaLInA dIvA nahotA, paNa mINabattIonI jyotano prakAza patharAyelo hato. ethI vAtAvaraNa pavitra ane prasannatAsabhara banI gayuM hatuM. vidhi karAvanAra cAreka vRddha pAdarIo sAthe vasabAvIsa varSanA yuvAna evA be pAdarIo paNa hatA. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM devaLa jIvaMta hoya, temAM pAdarIo dhArmika vidhi karatA hoya ane temAM yuvAno pAdarI tarIke joDAyA hoya e badhuM Azcarya pamADe evuM tyAre lAgatuM hatuM, paraMtu dharmanA punarutthAnanI e nizAnI hatI.

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tibilisI 141 tibilisInA pravAsa daramiyAna jyorjiyAnA lokonI eka sArI viziSTa chApa amArA manamAM aMkita thaI. ekaMdare loko maLatAvaDA ane premALa lAgyA. raziyA, ArmeniyA, turkastAna, ajharabaijAna vagere sarahadI rAjyo sAthe vakhatovakhata thatA saMgharSomAM teo potAnuM khamIra batAvatA rahetA hatA, paraMtu soviyeTa yuniyana thayA pachI kayAreka temanA para larakarI damana vadhI jatuM ane atyAcAro paNa thatA. tibilisImAM have amAro chello divasa hato. sAMje ame bhojana letA hatA tyAre veITaroe prastAva mUkyo ke dasa vAgye resTorAM baMdha thaI jAya ane teonI veITara tarIkenI pharaja pUrI thaI jAya te pachI e ja jagyAe badhAe ekatra thaI gIto gAvAM. veITaronI darakhArata ame saharSa svIkArI lIdhI, traNa divasanA rokANa daramiyAna veITaro sAthe amAre sAruM haLavAbhaLavAnuM thayuM hatuM. veITaro amArAmAMnA keTalAkanAM nAma jANatA hatA ane ame paNa veITarone nAmathI oLakhatA thaI gayA hatA. emAM mukhya be veITaro te amirAna ane mitAvA hatA. rAtre dasa vAge ame resTorAMmAM pahoMcI gayA. veITaro ane veITresoe yuniphorma badalIne potAno cAlu paheraveza dhAraNa karI lIdho hato. ullAsamaya vAtAvaraNamAM saMgItanA sUro vahevA lAgyA. eke vAyolina, eke giTAra, eke Drama - ema vAjiMtro vagADavA sAthe gIto gAvAnuM cAlu karyuM. vagara TikiTanI A mahephila dhAryA karatAM vadhu jAmI. aDadhA kalAkamAM to saMgItanI sAthe nAcavAnuM paNa cAlu thaI gayuM. eno raMga amArAmAMnAM keTalAMka yuvakayuvatIone lAgyo. AmAM potapotAnI AvaData pramANe hAthapaga uchALI nAcavAnuM hatuM. A koI zAstrIya nRtya nahotuM. emAM binaAvaData ke apUrNatA tarapha koInuM dhyAna jAya ja nahi. umaMga, ullAsa vagere ja mahattvanAM hatAM. vacce virAma Avyo. badhAne ThaMDAM pINAM apAyAM. daramiyAna amirAMne eka spardhA mATe darakhAsta mUkI. pote eka jyorjiyana gIta gAya ane amAre eka bhAratIya gIta gAvuM, paraMtu emAM chevaTe jyorjiyano phAvI gayA. teone to rojano mahAvaro hoya. have amirAMne bIjI darakhAsta mUkI ke pote bhAratIya calacitronAM gIta gAya ane amAre koI paNa binabhAratIya bhASAnuM gIta gAvuM. emAM amirAMne eka pachI eka hiMdI gIto gAyAM. ethI ame to Azcaryacakita thaI gayAM. amirAnanA hiMdI uccAro paNa sArA hatA. A bIja spardhAmAM paNa amirAnano pakSa jItI gayo. ame ene pUchyuM ke ATalAM badhAM hiMdI gIto kevI rIte AvaDyAM ?' eNe kahyuM ke jyAre hiMdI philmaabhinetA rAja kapUre soviyeTa yuniyananI mulAkAta lIdhI ane enuM 'AvArA'nuM gIta amArAmAM atyaMta lokapriya thaI gayuM tyArathI mArI jema ghaNAMne hiMdI gItono nAda lAgyo che. mane bhArata mATe ghaNuM mAna che. huM hiMdI gItonI keseTo meLavIne sAMbhaLyA

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142 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana karuM chuM. alabatta, huM hiMdI zabdo sAMbhaLIne kaMThastha karI lauM chuM, paNa enA arthanI mane bahu khabara nathI hotI.' rAtanA lagabhaga eka vAgyA sudhI mahephila jAmI. keTalAka veiTaro hoTelamAM ja rahevAnA hatA ane keTalAka ghare javAnA hatA. jevI jenI pharaja tevI tenI vyavasthA hatI. prasanna vAtAvaraNamAM khilakhilATa sAthe ame chUTA paDyA. pravAsIo veiTaro sAthe ATalA badhA bhaLe ane veiTarone pravAsIo sAthe ATalI badhI AtmIyatA thAya evI ghaTanA pramANamAM ochI bane che. bIje divase savAre amAre nAsto karI tibilisInI vidAya levAnI hatI. potapotAno sAmAna taiyAra karI, te basamAM goThavavA mATe ame nokarone bolAvyA, paNa temanA caherA para prasannatA nahotI. jANe parANe teone kAma karavuM paDe che evuM teonA hAvabhAva parathI lAgyuM. kAM to rAtano thAka haze, kAM to uparIno Thapako haze, kAM to koInI sAthe bolAcAlI thaI haze ke TipanI rakama ochI paDI haze ema judA judA tarka amArA manamAM doDyA. mANasanuM mana keTaluM jaladI badalAI jAya che ! ame nAsto karavA resTorAMmAM gayA, paNa tyAM amirAMna jANe amane oLakhato na hoya evuM enuM vartana lAgyuM. ame hasIne bolAvavA prayatna karatA hatA, paNa sAme ThaMDo pratisAda paDato hato. veiTreso paNa eTalI ja gaMbhIra hatI. nAstAnI vAnagIo Tebala para kazA paNa hAvabhAva vagara mUkI jatI. amArAmAMthI koIka bolyuM, 'A lokone kaMIka vAMkuM paDyuM lAge che. ApaNI zI bhUla thaI che tenI khabara paDatI nathI.' 'koIe koI yuvatInI cheDatI to nathI karI ne ?' bIjA eke prazna karyo. 'nA, nAcagAna vakhate evuM kazuM ja banyuM nathI. evuM thayuM hoya to te ja vakhate emanA caherAnA raMga badalAI gayA hota,' bIjA koIke khulAso karyo. ame hoTelanA kAunTara para gayA. tyAM pharaja bajAvI rahelAM yuvakayuvatIoe kazo ja AvakAra amane Apyo nahi. amArAthI puchAI gayuM, 'tame loko ATalAM badhAM gaMbhIra kema cho ?' paraMtu eno paNa koIe javAba na Apyo. nIcuM moDhuM rAkhIne basa potapotAnuM kAma karatAM rahyAM. jyAre eka vyaktino cahero gaMbhIra ke aprasanna hoya tyAre vyaktigata kAraNa hoI zake, paraMtu jyAre ghaNAbadhAnuM vartana AvuM hoya tyAre sAmudAyika kAraNa hovuM joIe. amane vahema paDyo ke kadAca koI zokano prasaMga paNa hoI zake, kAraNa ke keTalAke kALI TAI paherI hatI, paraMtu kharuM kAraNa zuM che te vize koI bolatuM nahotuM. tibilisImAM amAruM Agamana umaLakAbharyuM hatuM ane have amArI vidAya vakhate vAtAvaraNa gamagIna banI gayuM hatuM. ame hoTela choDI basamAM besavA jatA hatA tyAM amirAMna AvI pahoMcyo. eNe dhImA sAde kahyuM, 'mApha karajo, Aje koI tamArI sAthe

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tibilisI 143 sArI rIte bolyuM nathI, kAraNa ke Aje amAre acAnaka zoka pALavAno Avyo che. Ajano amAro divasa mauna ane gamagInIno che. gaI kAle rAtre moDethI samAcAra AvyA ke ArmeniyAnI sarahada upara thayelA anyAyane kAraNe virodha pradarzita karanArA amArA cAlIseka jyorjiyana nirdoSa vidyArthIo upara raziyana sainikoe goLIonI ramajhaTa bolAvI dIdhI che. A samAcAra chApAmAM ke TI.vI. upara ke reDiyo upara nahi Ave. enuM kAraNa tame samajI zako cho, paraMtu e samAcAra sAMbhaLIne amAruM hRdaya raDe che. Aje koI tamArI sAthe hasIne vAta nahi kare. gaI kAlanI mahephila pachI Aje tamane badhAne viparIta anubhava thAya che e mATe tamArI kSamA mAgIe chIe.' ATaluM bolatAM bolatAM amirAMnanI AMkhamAMthI daDadaDa AMsu paDyAM. tarata te cAlyo gayo. ame basamAM besI eNrapaoNrTa tarapha cAlyA. kelinA paNa Akhe raste kazuM bolI nahi. chelle vidAya vakhate eNe ane DrAivare hAtha halAvyA eTaluM ja. jyAM saramukhatyArazAhI ane krUra damana hoya tyAMnI prajAnA prazno paNa kevA judA hoya che enuM ciMtana karatAM karatAM ame tibilisI choDyuM.

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22 lukSembaoNrgathI jInivA ame keTalAka mitro yuropanA pravAse nIkaLyA hatA. keTalAka dezomAM ame pharI lIdhuM hatuM. have amAro kAryakrama lukSembaoNrga (Luxembourg - lukSembarga, lakjhembarga, lakSembarga) javAno ane tyAMthI jInivA pahoMcavAno hato. amArI basa jarmanInI eka TrAvela kaMpanInI hatI. DrAivara ane gAIDa jarmana hatA, paNa teo iMgliza sAruM bolatA hatA. duniyAmAM rASTranuM nAma ane pATanagaranuM nAma eka hoya evuM ghaNuM ochuM jovA maLe che. keTalAMka nAnAM TApu-rASTro(Island states)nAM tathA kaddamAM nAnAM rASTronAM evAM nAma hoya che. yuropanI dharatImAM traNa rASTronI vacce AvelA lukSembaoNrganuM nAma paNa evuM ja che. duniyAnAM keTalAMka nAnAmAM nAnAM rASTromAM lakSembaoNrganI gaNanA thAya che. hajAreka corasa mAIlanA vistAravALA A dezanI vastI Azare cAra lAkha jeTalI che. enI uttara ane vAyavya dizAmAM beljiyama, dakSiNa dizAmAM phrAnsa ane pUrva dizAmAM jarmanI AvelAM che eTale lukSembaoNrgamAM e traNe dezanI bhASAnA mizraNa jevI 'luptembaoNrDIM' bhASA bolAya che. tyAMnA sAmAnya nAgariko A traNe bhASA jANatA hoya che. Ama jo joIe to lukSembaoNrgane jarmanInA ja eka bhAga jevuM gaNI zakAya. yuropanA dezomAM vibhAjana ane ekIkaraNanI ghaTanAo vakhatovakhata banatI rahI che. 1871mAM jarmanInA ekIkaraNanI ghaTanA banI te vakhate lukSembaoNrge svataMtra rASTra tarIke rahevAnuM pasaMda karyuM. eTale Aja divasa sudhI e svataMtra rASTra rahyuM che. lukSembarganA nAgariko bahAranI duniyAmAM jAya ane tyAM lukSembaoNrganuM nAma koI jANatuM na hoya to teo potAne jarmana nAgarika tarIke, vyavahAru dRSTie, oLakhAvavAnuM pasaMda kare che. lukSemborganA loko ekaMdare khristI dharmanA romana ketholika saMpradAyane anusaranArA che. eTale ja lukSembaoNrgamAM pharatAM pharatAM mane amArI muMbaInI seMTa jheviyarsa kaoNlejanA be jarmana romana ketholika pAdarIo-phAdharo-nuM smaraNa tAjuM thayuM. eka te phAdhara dhUra. teo itihAsanA prAdhyApaka ane kaoNlejanA bhUtapUrva prinsipAla hatA. bIjA te phAdhara esTelara. teo saMskRta viSayanA prAdhyApaka ane prakAMDa paMDita hatA. ajANyA AgaLa vAta karatI vakhate teo pote jarmanInA che ema ja kahetA, paNa amArI sAthe sTApharUmamAM vAto karatI vakhate pote jarmanInI sarahada para AvelA lullembaoNrganA vatanI che evI spaSTatA karatA. khristI saMghamAM dIkSA lIdhA pachI ane muMbaInI seMTa jheviyarsa kaoNlejamAM 144

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15 sulemborgathI inivA prAdhyApaka tarIke bhaNAvavAnI pharaja soMpAyA pachI teoe potAnuM samagra jIvana muMbaImAM ja pUruM karyuM hatuM. khristI saMghamAM dIkSita thayA te pUrve kizorAvasthAmAM teo lukSembaoNrgamAM rahetA ane baTATAnAM khetaromAM kAma karavA jatA enI rasika vAto emanA mukhethI sAMbhaLelI tenuM smaraNa mane lukSembaoNrgamAM pharatAM pharatAM thayuM. ame lukSembaoNrgamAM pharI lIdhuM. daramiyAna amArA gAIDe pheMkapharTamAM potAnI kaMpanIne phona karIne jInivAmAM amAre kaI hoTelamAM UtaravAnuM che te jANI lIdhuM. * lukSekhaoNrga choDIne have amArI basa jarmanInI sarahada tarapha cAlI. ghaDIkamAM dhummasa ane ghaDIkamAM taDako anubhavatI basa mojhela nadI pAse AvI pahoMcI. A nAnI nadInA kinAre renica nAmanuM nAnakaDuM suMdara gAma vaseluM che. duniyAmAM nadIkinAre vaselAM keTalAMka gAmonI jema A gAma paNa nadInA baMne kAMThe vaseluM che, paraMtu enI viziSTatA e che ke eka kAMThe vaselo bhAga lukSebaoNrganI sarahadamAM gaNAya che ane bIjA kinAre vaselo bhAga jarmanInI hakumata heThaLa che. nadI, sarovara, dariyo ke dariyAnI khADI, parvata, gADha jaMgala vagere prAkRtika bhaugolika tattvo rAjadvArI sarahada nakkI karavAmAM sahAyarUpa bane che e sAcuM, paraMtu najIka najIkanI prajA vacce sAmAnya rIte rAjadvArI ke rASTrIya bhedabhAva hoto nathI. bhASAno prazna temane naDato nathI. roTI-beTIno vyavahAra teonI vacce yathAvatu rahe che. ahIM mojhela nadInA sAmasAmA kAMThe rahetA judI judI rASTrIyatA dharAvatA nAgariko vacce divasarAta pAsapaoNrTa, visA vagerenI koI vidhi vinA ke rokaToka vagara svAbhAvika avarajavara cAlyA kare che. sarahada oLaMgI nadInA sAmA kinAre jarmanImAM dAkhala thatAM amArA pAsapaoNrTavisA tapAsAyA. emAM sikkA mAravAmAM AvyA. jarmanImAM borga, holsa, phAIbarga vagere nAnAM nAnAM zaheromAMthI pasAra thatAM thatAM ame jarmanInA suvikhyAta 'zyAma vana'(Black Forest)mAM dAkhala thayA. karAla ane rukSa jaMgalamAM karavAmAM AvelA suMvALA ane suMdara rastA parathI, nirjhariNInI jema vahetI amArI basa sviTjharlenDanI sarahada para bAsela zaheramAM AvI pahoMcI. pharI kasTamsanI vidhi patAvI ame sviTjharlenDanI sarahadamAM pravezyA ane jInivA sudhI pahoMcI gayA. chanivAmAM amAre kaI hoTelamAM UtaravAnuM hatuM enI amane khabara nahotI. ame nIkaLyA tyAre hoTela nakkI thaI nahotI. kaMpanImAMthI enuM nAma jANI levAnI javAbadArI gAIDanI hatI. amane eTalI khabara hatI ke te bahu moMghI jANItI hoTela nahi hoya. madhyama kakSAnI sarerAza daranI hoTelamAM amAro utAro goThavavAnuM ame TrAvela kaMpanIne kahyuM hatuM. chanivAnI bhAgoLe basa dAkhala thaI eTale DrAIvare hoTelanuM nAma saranAmuM gAIDane pachayuM. amAro jarmana basaDrAIvara sviTjharlenDa keTalIka vAra AvI gayo hato, paNa te 10

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146 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana anivAno eTalo bhomiyo nahoto. gAIDe hoTelanuM nAma saranAmuM lakhelI cabarakhI ja DrAIvaranA hAthamAM mUkI dIdhI. jyAM cAra rastA AvyA tyAM DrAIvare basa eka bAju UbhI rAkhIne eka rAhadArIne e cabarakhI vaMcAvI. paNa ene enI khabara nahotI. DrAIvare basa AgaLa lIdhI ane bIjo eka rAhadArI dekhAyo eTale basa UbhI rAkhI ane pUchayuM. ene paNa enI khabara nahotI. Ama DrAIvara basa dhIme dhIme haMkArato jato ane pUchato jato, paraMtu kamanasIbe koIne e vize mAhitI nahotI. na ja hoya, kAraNa ke amArI hoTela nAnI hatI. eTale moTA rastA para nahi, paNa koI nAnI galImAM te hovI joIe. sAMjano samaya thayo eTale rAhadArIonI avarajavara vadhavA lAgI. have jarUra koIka jANakAra maLI jaze evI AzA baMdhAI. tarata e phaLI. eka bhalI yuvatIe cabarakhI vAMcIne DrAIvarane enI jarmana bhASAmAM samajAvyuM. kayAMthI jamaNI bAju ane kayAMthI DAbI bAju vaLavAnuM ane keTalA signala vaTAvavAnA te kahyuM, paNa DrAIvaranA magajamAM te barAbara UtaryuM hoya ema lAgyuM nahi. yuvatI inivAnI rahIza eTale e to phaTa phaTa bolI gaI. rastAthI suparicita sthAnika vyakti pAsethI ajANa videzI vyaktine mAhitI meLavavAnI hoya ane temAM ghaNA vaLAMka ane signalo AvatA hoya to mAhitInuM saMkramaNa, duboMdha kAvyanI jema jaladI thatuM nathI. yuvatIe traNa vAra samajAvyuM, paraMtu dareka vakhate pharI bolI javAmAM DrAIvaranI bhUla paDI. ame gAIDane sUcana karyuM, 'AnA karatAM e bahenane ja basamAM laI lone !' sUcana sAruM hatuM, paNa yuvatIe kahyuM, "mAre to ATalAmAM ja relave sTezanethI parAmAM ghare javAnI gADI pakaDavAnI che. huM tamane pAMceka kilomITara mUkavA AvuM ane tyAMthI pablika basamAM pAchI pharuM to mArI gADI UpaDI jAya ane bIjI gADI kalAke maLe.' ame amArI ja basamAM pachIthI ene sTezana para mUkI javA mATe darakhAsta karI ane kahyuM ke sAmAna utAravA paNa ame koI rokAIzuM nahi. yuvatIe potAnI ghaDiyALamAM joI, samayanI gaNatarI karI laI, amArI sAthe AvavA saMmati ApI. basamAM e DrAIvaranI bAjunI sITamAM besI gaI. jarmana bhASAmAM vAta thatAM DrAIvara paNa utsAhamAM AvI gayo. yuvatInI sUcanA pramANe te AtmavizvAsapUrvaka jhaDapathI basa haMkAravA lAgyo. yuvatInA mArgadarzanathI te rAjI rAjI thaI gayo. signalo vaTAvatI ane vaLAMko letI amArI basa eka galInA nAkA para AvIne UbhI rahI. yuvatIe kahyuM, A galImAM cothuM makAna te tamArI hoTela che. dekhAya che barAbara?..... A galI ekamArga che. basa aMdara lezo to pele cheDe bahu dUra nIkaLavuM paDaze. mATe ahIMthI ja pAchI vALavAnuM ThIka raheze." enI vAta sAcI hatI. gAIDe kahyuM,

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luNemborgathI chanivA 147 'tame badhAM basamAM ja besI raho. huM ekalo hoTela para jaI rUmanI vyavasthA karuM tyAM sudhImAM tame A bahenane sTezane mUkIne pAchA Avo.' . hoTelanI cabarakhI laI gAIDa UtarI gayo. basa relave sTezana tarapha cAlI. yuvatI DrAIvarane rasto batAvatI jAya ane DrAIvara DokuM dhuNAvato haMkAsto jAya. relave sTezane ame pahoMcyA. have tyAMthI basa pAchI hoTela para kevI rIte levI te DrAIvare yuvatI pAsethI barAbara samajI lIdhuM. e paragaju yuvatIne ame khUba AbhAra mAnyo. ame ene pratIkarUpa nAnI bheTa paNa ApI. mIThA hetabhAvathI ame paraspara vidAya lIdhI. - have amArI basa vadhu vegathI cAlavA lAgI. signalo vaTAvatI basa AgaLa vadhatI hatI. amArAmAMnA keTalAka vAtoe vaLagyA hatA. mArA jevA koIka jInivA nagaranuM darzana karavAmAM magna hatA. ema karatAM karatAM pacIseka miniTa thaI gaI, chatAM hoTela na AvI. eka AvI gayelA rastA para bIjI vAra basa AvI ethI amane zaMkA gaI ke DrAIvara rasto bhUlyo to nathI ne ? kharekhara ema ja hatuM. DrAIvare kahyuM, 'pelI yuvatInI sUcanA pramANe ja huM calAvuM chuM, paNa koNa jANe kema hoTela AvatI nathI. moTAM zaheronA ekamArgIya rastAnI ja A mokANa che.' eka vaLAMka vahelo ke moDo levAI jAya ke dizAphera thaI jAya pachI pUchavuM zuM ? ekamArgIya rastAmAM bhUlathI dAkhala thaI javAyuM to e jyAM laI jAya tyAM gayA vagara chUTako nahi. amArAmAMthI koIka DrAIvarane thoDuM gammatamAM ane thoDuM gaMbhIratAthI kahyuM, "bhAI, ema karo. basa UbhI rAkhI pharIthI bIjI koI dayALu mahilAne rasto pUchI juo.' DrAIvare basa ubhI rAkhI. pachI amane pUchyuM, "ApaNI hoTelanuM nAma zuM ?' e to tamane khabara.' 'paNa e kAgaLa to gAIDa laI gayo.' 'tame e nAma vAMcyuM nathI ?' nA, huM to gAIDe Apelo kAgaLa ja sIdho rAhadArIone vaMcAvato hato. vAMcavA mATe mAre caramAM caDAvavAM paDe." ottArInI! A to kamAla thaI gaI! kayAM javAnuM che enI amane potAne ja have khabara nahotI. rAhadArIone pUchIe zuM? bhUla DrAIvaranI hatI, paNa enA upara nArAja thaye zuM kAma lAge ? e to savArathI basa calAvato Avyo che. ApaNe ene madadarUpa thavuM joIe ema amane lAgyuM. ame kahyuM, 'tame basa dhIme dhIme calAvo. ame baMne bAju AvatI galIomAM

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18 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana najara nAkhatA rahIzuM. jarUra lAgaze to ApaNe kayAMkathI jarmanI phona karIne hoTelanI mAhitI meLavI laIzuM. mATe phikara na karazo.' DrAIvare ghIme dhIme basa haMkArI, paNa e upAya saphaLa thayo nahi. judI judI dizAomAM ghUmavA chatAM ame haju dizAzUnya rahyA hatA. evAmAM eka vicArano mArA manamAM jhabakAro thayo. kadAca zikSaNa kSetranA mArA vyavasAyane lIdhe paNa haze ! meM sAthIdArone kahyuM, 'mitro, mane eTaluM barAbara yAda che ke eka makAna upara yunivarsiTInuM nAma vAMcyA pachI ApaNe jamaNI bAju vaLyA hatA. pachI pAMceka miniTamAM koIka galImAM hoTela AvI hatI. mATe ApaNe yunivarsiTIno rasto pUchatAM pUchatAM pahelAM tyAM pahoMcI jaIe. tyAM basa UbhI rAkhI, page cAlIne ApaNe AsapAsanI galIomAM joI AvIe. e pramANe karavAnuM nakkI thayuM. yunivarsiTI mATe pUchatAM pUchatAM to ame kyAMya nIkaLI gayAM. tyAre ja samajAyuM ke hoTalathI to ame ghaNe badhe dUra cAlyA gayA hatA. dizAphera thaI gayo hato. chevaTe yunivarsiTInuM makAna AvyuM. barAbara e ja jagyA. eka sthaLe basa UbhI rAkhI, page cAlIne AsapAsanI galIomAM ame ghUmI vaLyA. eka galImAM hoTela dekhAI. basa e ja hoTela. enuM jarmana nAma paNa yAda na rahe evuM vicitra. tarata tyAM basa levaDAvI ame pahoMcI gayA. amArA gAIDane to bahu ciMtA thatI hatI. rakhene kayAMka akasmAta na thayo hoya ! paNa amArI rAmakahANI sAMbhaLI tyAre hasavuM ke raDavuM enI dvidhAmAM e paDI gayo. bIje divase anivA nagaranA darzanano amAro kAryakrama hato, paraMtu te pahelAM aDadhuM nagaradarzana to ame karI lIdhuM hatuM. hoTelanA ke rastAnA nAmanI khabara na hoya ane te zodhavA mATe AMTA mAravA paDe te to haju samajI zakAya evI vAta che, paraMtu hoTelanuM ane rastAnuM nAma ApaNe jANatA hoIe ane hoTela ApaNI najaranI sAme spaSTa dekhAtI hoya ane chatAM tyAM pahoMcavA mATe ghaNA AMTA mAravA paDe e tarata mAnI na zakAya evI vAta che, paraMtu e sAcI ane mArA potAnA anubhavanI ja vAta che. eka vakhata amerikAmAM ame nAyagarAno dhodha jovA javA mATe nIkaLyA hatA. nAyagarAnI najIkanA TAunamAM jaIne tyAM rAta rokAvAthI dhodha jovA mATe bIje Akho divasa maLI zake ema vicArI ame sAMjanA nIkaLyA hatA. amerikAnA hAIve eTale kahevuM zuM ? ekasAthe cAra ke pAMca lAInamAM gADIo jaI zake evo eka bAjuno ane evo ja sAmenI bAjuno mArga. vacce moTI pALI athavA khullI jagyA hoya. hAIve para mANasane page cAlavAnI manAI. cAlanAra mRtyune ja bheTe.

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lumembaoNrgathI nivA 149 ame nAyagarA Ave te pahelAM hAivenI pAse AvelI eka hoTelamAM mAtra rAtanA sUvA mATe rUma noMdhAvI hatI. nakazAmAM jotAM jotAM ame gADI haMkAratA jatA hatA. have hoTela AvavI joIe evo vicAra manamAM Avyo tyAM ja dUrathI hoTelanuM niyona sAinavALuM nAma vaMcAyuM. ame gADI dhImI pADI. joyuM ke barAbara hAIvenI sAmI bAju hoTela AvI che. pravAsathI ame thAkelA hatA, eTale 'hArA, hoTela AvI gaI' ema bolatAM ame utsAhita thaI gayA. have hAIvemAMthI bahAra nIkaLI sAmI bAjunA hAIve para amAre javAnuM hatuM. jamaNI bAju bahAra nIkaLavAnA vaLAMka(Exit)mAM ame gADI lIdhI (amerikAmAM TrAphika DAbI bAjuno nahi paNa jamaNI bAjuno che). bahAranA e rastA para ghaNe dUra sudhI ame gayA, paNa sAmI bAju javAno vaLAMka Avyo nahi. e rasto to pAsenA koI nAnA TAunamAM jato hato. amArI kaMIka bhUla hatI. nakazAmAM jotAM jotAM ane rastA paranI nizAnIo vAMcatAM vAMcatAM ame pharI amArI bAjunA hAIvemAM dAkhala thayA. pharI sAmenI bAju amArI hoTela jovA maLI, paNa tyAM thoDuM jaI zakAya ? amane ema thayuM ke bhAratamAM hota to gADI UbhI rAkhI, rasto oLaMgI sIdhA hoTelamAM dAkhala thaI sUI gayA hota. paNa A to amerikA che. enI kiMmata cUkavavI paDe. ame lIdhelA vaLAMkane badale pachIno vaLAMka laI bahAra nIkaLyA to trIjI ja koI jagyAe pahoMcyA. amArA sUvAnA kalAko kapAtA jatA hatA. chevaTe eka gaeNsa sTezana (peTrola paMpa) para jaI, hoTelamAM phona karI, enuM mArgadarzana meLavI lIdhuM. ema karatAM bIjA vIseka mAIla amAre pharavuM paDyuM. chevaTe hoTelamAM pahoMcyA tyAre aDadhI rAta vItI gaI hatI. najara sAme dekhAtI hoTelamAM dAkhala thavA mATe paNa keTalAM moTAM cakkara mAravAM paDe che eno pratyakSa anubhava tyAre thayo hato. jema jema bhautika samRddhi vadhatI jAya che, jema jema moTA moTA rastAo ane UMcAM UMcAM makAno vadhatAM jAya che tema tema kadamAM eTalo ne eTalo ja rahelo mANasa divase divase nAno ane nAno dekhAto jAya che. dareka navI siddhinI sAthe navI navI samasyAo AvavAnuM kayAre baMdha thaze ? navI siddhione vAstavikatAnA saMdarbhamAM jAgRtipUrvaka utsAhathI svIkArI levAmAM samasyAo ochI na thAya ?

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23 samarakaMda ujhabekistAnano pravAsa karIe ane samarakaMda na joIe to AgrA jaIne tAjamahAla joyA vagara pAchA pharyA jevuM gaNAya. tAnkaMda, samarakaMda ane bukhArA (athavA bokhoro) e ujhabekistAnanI traNa prAcIna nagarIo che. e traNemAM samarakaMda sauthI vadhu prAcIna ane itihAsasabhara che. A nagarIoe kALanA pravAhamAM sukha samRddhinI choLo UDatI joI che ane lohInI nadIo paNa vahetI joI che. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM jyAre pramukha gobaceva sattAsthAna para hatA tyAre ame samarakaMdanA pravAse gayA hatA. tAzkedathI lagabhaga poNAtraNaso kilomITara dUra AvelI, Azare cAra lAkhanI vastI dharAvatI nagarI samarakaMdamAM 'samarakaMda' nAmanI hoTelamAM ame UtaryA hatA. samarakaMdamAM nagaradarzananA kAryakrama mATe ame joDAyA. basamAM besI ame UpaDyA. amArA gAIDanuM nAma hatuM zAkhoba. basa cAlI ane zAkhobe samarakaMdano paricaya Apyo. itihAsa na jANatA hoIe to mAnI na zakIe ke samarakaMda traNa hajAra varSathI vadhu prAcIna nagarI che. keTalAMka varSa pahelAM A jagyAe ujhabeka purAtatva vibhAga taraphathI jamInamAM paMdarathI vIsa phUTa UMDe khodakAma karavAmAM AvatAM mAnavahADakAM, mATInAM ThIkarAM, dhAtunI cIjavastuo, ghareNAM ane temAM jaDelAM kImatI naMga, paththarane dhAradAra banAvI temAMthI banAvelAM ojAro vagere je maLyAM temanI vaijJAnika paddhatithI kAlagaNanA karavAmAM AvI che. e uparathI jaNAya che ke samarakaMda bAreka hajAra varSa pahelAMnI paththarayuganI nagarI hovI joIe. madhya eziyAmAM raNavistAramAM A jagyAe nagara vasavAnuM mukhya kAraNa te enI phaLadrupa jamIna che. jhArAvazA nadInA khINapradezamAM AveluM A sthaLa vRkSo ane gIca vanarAjithI hariyALuM che. ahIM pANInI chUTa che. khetInI anukULatA che. gheTAM, haraNa, UMTa, ghoDA vagere pazuo ane jAtajAtanAM pakSIothI A pradeza sabhara che. paraMtu e badhAM uparAMta cAre bAju TekarIo AvelI hovAthI kudarate ja jANe ene vizALa killA jevI racanA karI ApI che. eTale prAcIna kALanI lazkarI daSTie paNa A surakSita sthaLa che. bhUmadhya samudrathI TheTha cIna sudhI jatA kAcA dhorI mArgane joDatuM samarakaMda madhya eziyAnuM saMgamasthAna manAtuM hatuM. samarakaMdano eka artha thAya che milanasthAna. enuM 150

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samarakaMda 1 prAcIna nAma marakaMda ke maragaMda hatuM. pachI samarakaMda banyuM. TheTha prAcIna kALathI atyaMta samRddha rahelI A nagarI upara elekjhAnDara, caMgIjha khAna ane taimuralena jevA samrAToe vijaya meLavavAno prayAsa karyo hato ane potAnA sainikonI bhAre khuvArInA bhoge paNa enA upara kabajo meLavyo hato e ja enI mahattA darzAve che. samarakaMdano jUnAmAM jUno ullekha I.sa. pUrve 329no maLe che. elekjhAnDara lAkho sainikone laIne paMdara divasamAM hiMdukuza parvata oLaMgIne soghaDiyAnA nAmanA pradezanA samarakaMda zahera para caDI Avyo hato. sthAnika bahAdura prajAe bhAre sAmano karyo hato. traNeka varSa yuddha cAlyuM hatuM. eka lAkha karatAM vadhu sainiko mAryA gayA hatA. chevaTe elekjhAnDare samarakaMda upara vijaya meLavyo hato. ghaNAM varSa sudhI meseDoniyA bekTriyAnA sAmrAjyanA eka bhAga tarIke rahyA pachI elekjhAnDaranA mRtyu bAda samarakaMda chUTuM paDyuM ane sthAnika rAjAnA hAthamAM AvyuM. I.sa.nI pahelI zatAbdImAM te kuzAna sAmrAjyano eka bhAga banyuM. AThamA saikAmAM Araboe enA para caDAI karI ane jIta meLavI. tyArathI samarakaMda muslima saMskRtinuM eka moTuM kendra banyuM. tyAra bAda judA judA vaMzanA rAjAoe enA para vakhatovakhata rAjya karyuM. i.sa.nA teramA saikAmAM mogola samrATa krUra caMgIjha khAne samarakaMda upara moTI caDAI karI. enA sainikoe samarakaMda upara vijaya meLavyo. baMne pakSe ghaNI moTI khuvArI thai eTaluM ja nahi, caMgIjha khAnanA sainikoe samarakaMdamAM strIo ane bALako sahita tamAma mANasone raheMsI nAkhyAM. ghaNo moTo mAnavasaMhAra thayo. eka lAkha karatAM vadhu mANaso mRtyu pAmyAM haze. jeo bhAgI chUTyA te bacyAM. sainikoe samarakaMdamAM lUMTa calAvI, Aga lagADI. kALo kera vartAvI teo bhAgI gayA. samarakaMdamAM lohInI nadIo vahI. mahinAo sudhI mAMsabhakSI pakSIo UDatAM rahyAM. AkhuM nagara smazAna jevuM ane durgaMdhamaya banI gayuM. keTalAMka varSo pachI samarakaMda pharI vasavA lAgyuM. parziyAnA rAjAe A AkhA pradeza upara varcasva jamAvyuM. eka pachI eka rAjAo AvatA gayA. IsvIsananA paMdaramA saikAmAM taimuralene bhArata upara caDAI karI ane uttarano pradeza jItI lIdho. tyAra pachI eNe jyorjiyA para caDAI karI. Ama, volgA nadIthI gaMgA nadInA pradeza upara prabhutva dharAvanAra taimuralena tyAra pachI madhya eziyA upara vijaya meLavavA nIkaLyo. enA sainikoe cAre bAju bhAre saMhAra karyo. taimuralena kaheto ke 'AkAzamAM jema ahvAha eka ja che, tema pRthvI para eka ja samrATa hovo joie, ane te samrATa huM pote chuM.' taimuralenanI ghaNI begamo hovAthI enA putro ane pautro paNa ghaNA hatA. teo badhA baLavAna ane parAkramI hatA. teo badhA judI judI dizAmAM judA judA pradezo upara varcasva jamAvatA jatA hatA. AthI enuM sAmrAjya ghaNuM vistAra pAmyuM. samarakaMda

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15ra pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana upara vijaya meLavyA pachI eNe samarakaMdane potAnuM kAyamI nivAsasthAna banAvyuM. madhya eziyAnI rAjadhAnI samarakaMda rahyuM. alabatta, taimuranI sarahadI mahattvAkAMkSA atRma rahetI. navA navA dUradUranA pradezo upara vijaya meLavavA mATe sainikone laIne pahoMcI javAnI enI dhagaza adamya hatI. paraMtu ema karatAM eka yuddhamAM te mAryo gayo. tyAre enI umara pacAseka varSanI hatI. taimuranA mRtyu pachI samarakaMdanA rAjyane sthira ane sudaDha karavAmAM mahattvanuM kArya karyuM enI gAdIe AvelA pautra ulughabake (athavA ulughabereke). taimurano eka pautra te bAbara hato. te potAnA sainiko sAthe bhArata para caDI Avyo. dilhImAM eNe potAnI saltanata sthApI. e pachI te dilhImAM ja sthira thayo. ulughabake samarakaMdane samRddha karyuM. eno rAjyakALa te sukhazAntino kALa hato. ulughabekamAM bAdazAha karatAM paMDitanA guNo vadhAre hatA. rAjyasImA vistAravAne badale eNe potAnI jJAnasImA vistArI. ene gaNitazAstra, khagoLazAstra ane tattvajJAnamAM vadhu rasa hato. eNe samarakaMdamAM madresA(vidyAzALA)nI sthApanA karI. e pote vidyArthIone bhaNAvavA lAgyo hato. enI madresAmAM tyAra pachI ghaNA tejasvI vidyArthIo bhaNavA AvyA hatA ke jeo kavi ke tattvaciMtaka tarIke taiyAra thayA hatA. AMtararASTrIya khyAti dharAvanAra kavi-philasUpha umara khaiyAme samarakaMdanI masAmAM rahIne abhyAsa karyo hato. soLamA saikAmAM ujhabeka lokoe samarakaMda upara kabajo jamAvyo. aDhAramA saikAmAM bukhArAnA amIre samarakaMda upara vijaya meLavyo. ogaNIsamA saikAmAM raziyana lokoe te upara jIta meLavI. soviyeTa yuniyananI sthApanA pachI samarakaMda ujhabekistAnanuM pATanagara banyuM. 1930 pachI pATanagara tarIke tAnkaMdane sthAna maLatAM samarakaMdanuM mahattva ghaTayuM. amArA gAIDa zAkhobe kahyuM, 'ujhabekistAna soviyeTa yuniyanamAM joDAyuM te pachI enI pragati ghaNI thaI che. samarakaMdanI to jANe kAyApalaTa ja thaI gaI. navuM samarakaMda vasyuM. moTA moTA rastAo ane UMcAM UMcAM makAno thayAM. skUlo, kaoNlejo, yunivarsiTIo, lAIbrerI, myujhiyama, bajAro, udyogo, hoTelo, hospiTalo, udhAno, relave sTezano, raheThANanAM makAno vagere badhuM ja navA vistAramAM navesarathI thayuM. relave sTezana pAse eka moTA UMcA paththara para leninanuM moTuM pUtaLuM mUkavAmAM AvyuM ane e vistAranuM nAma lenina saphara rAkhavAmAM AvyuM. bIjAM paNa keTalAMka smArako karavAmAM AvyAM. A rIte samarakaMdamAM jUnuM samarakaMda ane navuM samarakaMda evA be vibhAga paDI gayA. samarakaMdanAM judAM judAM sthaLonI ame mulAkAta lIdhI. zAkhoba darekano itihAsa samajAvato jAya. samarakaMdanI prajA ekaMdare sukhI lAgI, topaNa jUnA samarakaMdamAM gAmane chevADe mATInAM jUnAM nAnAM nAnAM gharomAM rahetA lokone joIne lAgyuM ke teo Arthika

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153 samarakaMda daSTie ghaNA pachAta che. roTI, kapaDAM ane makAna teone maLyAM che, paNa temanA jIvanamAM koI teja jaNAyuM nahi. samarakaMdamAM jovA jevuM sauthI vadhu mahattvanuM prAcIna aitihAsika sthaLa te registAna sphara' che. registAna eTale retIno pradeza. A atyaMta vizALa cokamAM ApaNI najara sAme traNa vizALa uttuMga, kalAtmaka ImArato traNa dizAbhimukha aDoaDa AvelI che. ApaNI DAbI bAjunI ane jamaNI bAjunI imAratanA daravAjA sAmasAme paDe che ane ApaNI sAmI bAjunI ImAratano daravAjo ApaNI sanmukha dekhAya che. prathama najare ja cittane jakaDI rAkhe evI uttuMga ane saundaryamaMDita A ImArato che. keTalA badhA vizALa pAyA para enA nakazAo taiyAra thayA haze ! kharekhara, AnuM Ayojana karanArane dhanyavAda ApavAnuM mana thaI jAya. paMdaramA saikAmAM samarakaMdamAM sthApatyakalA keTalI badhI vikasI hatI enI e pratIti karAve che. mastaka khAssI vAra UMcuM rAkhIne avalokana karIe to ja saMtoSa thAya. IMTa, cIkaNI mATI, moTAmoTA paththaro, camakatI raMgaberaMgI cInI mATInI lAdIo, phUlavelanI ane bhaumitika AkRtionuM sAmaMjasya, suvarNano opa apAyelAM keTalAMka citrAMkano - A badhAMne kAraNe enuM kalAsaundarya anupama banI rahyuM che. emAM enA cAramAMthI avaziSTa rahelA be minArAo ane uparathI kamAna AkAranA bhavya UMcA daravAjAo enA saundaryamAM abhivRddhi kare che. e jotAM ja mANasa bhUtakALamAM khovAI jAya che. A traNa sthApatyakRtio che : (1) ulughabeka madresA (2) zeradora madresA ane (3) tilyA-kArI madresA. ulughabeka madresAnuM bAMdhakAma paMdaramA saikAmAM thayuM che. enI nakala jevI bIjI be madresAonuM bAMdhakAma sattaramA saikAmAM thayuM che. paraMtu ulughabeka madresA jevuM saundarya pachIthI thayelI be madresAomAM jovA maLatuM nathI. ulughabeka madresAmAM pacAsa jeTalA vizALa khaMDo che. ahIM vidyArthIo mATe rahevA-bhaNavAnI vyavasthA hatI. dUradUrathI vidyArthIo ahIM vidyAbhyAsa mATe AvatA. khuda ulughabeka pote paNa vidyArthIone bhaNAvato. rAjA pote vidyAguru hoya evo virala samanvaya ulughabekamAM jovA maLyo che. - registAna cokamAM AvelI A traNe ImArato eTalI badhI UMcI, vizALa ane bhavya che ke cokamAM UbhelA vicArazIla mANasane pote kadamAM keTalo badho nAno che teno anubhava thayA vagara rahe nahi. A madresAo have vaparAza vinAnI, sUnI ane jarjarita thaI gaI che, paraMtu atyAre paNa je eno ATalo badho prabhAva paDato hoya to jyAre e taiyAra thaI gaI haze, navI haze ane vidyArthIo emAM abhyAsa karatA haze, zAhI kuTuMbo emAM vasatAM haze, cokIdAro cokI karatA haze ane lokonI ghaNI badhI avarajavara rahetI haze tyAre enuM kevuM jIvaMta vAtAvaraNa lAgatuM haze ahIM UbhA hoIe to

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154 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana bhUtakALanAM e dazyo najara samakSa taravaravA lAge che. prakAza ane dhvani(Light and Sound)nA kAryakrama dvArA enI jIvaMtatAnI ahIM jhAMkhI karAvavAmAM Ave che. potAne vizvavijetA kahevaDAvanAra taimurane potAnA zilpIo ane sthApatyakalAvidone badhe mokalIne tathA pote najare joyuM hoya temAMthI pasaMda karIne duniyAnI zreSTha ImArato karatAM paNa vadhu caDiyAtI ImArato samarakaMdamAM bAMdhavAnA Adezo ApI dIdhA hatA. bhArata, ijisa, grIsa, jyorjiyA vagere ghaNe sthaLethI seMkaDo zilpIo, Ijanero, kArIgaro, baLavAna majUro vagerene pakaDIne samarakaMda laI AvavAmAM AvyA hatA. seMkaDo mAIla dUrathI moTA moTA paththaro majUro dvArA lAvavAmAM AvatA. taimuralene samarakaMdamAM sthira thayA pachI ghaNI judI judI ImArato baMdhAvI. hajAro mANaso dvArA Akho divasa kAma cAlatuM. pAMceka varSamAM to ghaNI ImArato UbhI thaI gaI. emAMnI eka te bIbI khanimanI masjida che. nIlaraMgI eno vizALa ghumaTa dUrathI paNa dhyAna kheMcyA vagara rahe nahi. durbhAgye taimuranA potAnA jIvanakALa daramiyAna ja A masjida jarjarita thavA lAgI hatI. samarakaMdamAM Adhunika samayamAM jamInamAMthI khodI kADhavAmAM AveluM eka aitihAsika sthaLa te ulughabekanI khagoLanirIkSaNa mATenI prayogazALA che. eka raziyana vaijJAnika vyATakine ulughabekanA jIvanano UMDo abhyAsa karyo. e uparathI ene khAtarI thaI ke ulughabeke kyAMka potAnI prayogazALA (ApaNA jaMtaramaMtara jevI racanA) banAvI hovI joIe. eNe judI judI jagyAe khodakAma karI, bhoMyarAM banAvI chevaTe paMdaravIsa phUTa nIce daTAyelI AkhI prayogazALA, varSonI mahenata pachI zodhI kADhI. soviyeTa sarakAre enA A projekaTa mATe Arthika sahAya karI. A prayogazALA have ApaNe joI zakIe chIe. ulughabake potAnA madadanIzonI sahAya laI Teliskopa vinAnA e jamAnAmAM, narI AMkhe nirIkSaNa karIne AkAzanA 1800 jeTalA tArAonI noMdha karI che. tArAo, nakSatro vagerenI gatinAM nirIkSaNanA AdhAre ulughabake eka varSa barAbara 365 divasa, 6 kalAka, 10 miniTa ane 8 sekanDa evuM mApa kADhyuM hatuM. AjanuM vijJAna kahe che ke eka varSa barAbara 365 divasa, 6 kalAka, 8 miniTa ane 8.5 sekanDa. eTale ulughabake kareluM e jamAnAnuM saMzodhana keTaluM badhuM cokasAIbharyuM hatuM tenI pratIti thAya che. raziyana vaijJAnika vyAkine jIvanabhara ahIM rahIne A saMzodhana karyuM. enI bhAvanA evI hatI ke potAnA mRtyu pachI potAnA mRtadehane A prayogazALAnA cogAnamAM ja daphanAvavAmAM Ave ane e pramANe sarakAre enI bhAvanA anusAra enI daphanavidhi ahIM karI hatI. rANA hoya ke rAjA, chatrapati hoya ke cakravartI, bAdazAha hoya ke zahenazAha, mRtyu koIne choDatuM nathI, paraMtu rAjA-bAdazAha ke enA parivArane bALavA : daphanAvavA mATe

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samarakaMda 155 alAyadI, vizALa, viziSTa jagyA rAkhavAnI ane tyAM smAraka rUpe ImArata bAMdhavAnI paraMparA prAcIna kALathI cAlI Ave che. samarakaMdamAM evI jagyA te "gurI-amIra' che. gurI eTale kabara, amIra emira) eTale bAdazAha (athavA bAdazAhanA parivAranA sabhya). taimuralene potAnA dharmaguru mira saiyada bere mATe A makabaro karAvyo hato. eTale gurIamIra guramira' tarIke paNa oLakhAya che. I.sa. 1403mAM taimurano eka vahAlo pautra mahamada sulatAna eka yuddhamAM haNAyo hato. taimure enA zabane gurIamIramAM daphanAvyuM hatuM. A jagyAe eka moTI bhavya ImArata bAMdhavA mATe eNe Adeza Apyo hato. gherA vAdaLI raMganI camakatI lAdInI DijhAInavALo, UMDA AMkAvALo ghuMmaTa A makabarA para karavAmAM Avyo hato. 1405mAM taimuranuM mRtyu thatAM ene zabane paNa ahIM ja daphanAvavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. taimuranA bIjA be putronAM zabane tathA paMDita pautra ulughabekanA zabane paNa ahIM ja daphanAvavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. e rIte A makabaro aitihAsika che, paNa enA zilpasthApatyanuM lAlitya eTalI UMcI koTinuM che ke keTalAya kavioe gurIamIra upara kavitA lakhI che. I.sa. 1914mAM ujhabeka ekeDemInA vaijJAnikone taimuranI ane ulughabekanI kabara khodavAnI sarakArI paravAnagI maLI. e khodakAma thatAM emAMthI nIkaLelAM khoparI sahitanAM hADapiMjara uparathI e baMnenI dehAkRti kevI haze tene abhyAsa karIne vaijJAnikoe tevI AkRtio banAvI ane pachI hADapiMjara pAchAM daphanAvI devAmAM AvyAM. samarakaMdamAM mane gameluM bIjuM eka sthaLa te kavionuM udhAna che. A Adhunika racanA che. A hariyALA ramaNIya udyAnamAM eka moTI laMbacorasa zilA upara ujhabekistAnanA cAra kavio sAmasAme beThA che, be palAMThI vALIne ane be vIrAsanamAM. teo vAjiMtra sAthe potAnI kavitA gAI rahyA che. mUchadADhIvALA prauDha kavioe sakhata ThaMDImAM paherAya evA jADA lAMbA DagalA paherelA che. mAthe pAghaDI ke moTI TopI che. samarakaMde potAnA kavionuM A rIte kareluM gaurava anumodanIya ane anukaraNIya che. grenAITa paththaramAM kaMDAravAmAM AvelI evI bIjI eka zilpAkRti te ujhabeka ane tAjika prajA vacce maitrInI bhAvanAnA pratIka rUpa e baMne prajAnA be kavionA milananI che. samarakaMdamAM A uparAMta yupAna-ATA, sakhI-jhiMdA vagere bIjAM keTalAMka smArako paNa ame jhINavaTapUrvaka nihALyAM. te darekano bhinna bhinna ItihAsa che. samarakaMdanI dharatI aDhI-traNa hajAra varSanA ItihAsathI dhabake che. duniyAnI prAcIna nagarIomAM samarakaMdanuM paNa AgavuM sthAna che. ujhabekistAna soviyeTa yuniyanamAM joDAyuM ethI ene ghaNo lAbha thayo che. ethI khetIpradhAna garIba prajAnI Arthika sthiti sudharI che, zikSaNanA kSetre vyavasthA sudaDha thaI che. udyogo sthapAyA che ane prajAvikAsanAM mahattvanAM kAryo thayAM che. paraMtu mArI daSTie

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156 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana sauthI mahattvanuM eka kArya thayuM te prAcIna avazeSonI jALavaNInuM che. soviyeTa yuniyananI sthApanA pUrve ghaNI imArato jarjarita thaI gaI hatI. keTalIka to khaMDiyera banI cUkI hatI. ujhabekistAnanI sarakAra pAse enI marAmata mATe tyAre nANAM, sAdhano, AvaData ke dRSTi nahotAM. lenine sattA para AvatAMnI sAthe aitihAsika imAratonI dekhabhALa ane surakSA mATe Adezo ApI dIdhA. ethI samarakaMdamAM vAMkA thaI gayelA ane paDuM paDuM thaI rahelA keTalAka minArAone sIdhA ane sthira karI levAmAM AvyA. keTalIka imAratomAM staMbho, ghuMmaTo, minArAo, pravezadvAro vageremAM jyAM paththaro khavAI gayA hatA tene sarakhA karI levAmAM AvyA. jyAM jarUra lAgI tyAM TekA mUkavAmAM AvyA. bhagnAvazeSo kALajInA abhAve vadhu bhagna thatA hatA tene aTakAvavAmAM AvyA. raMga pUravAmAM AvyA. tUTelI lAdIo kADhIne navI besADavAmAM AvI. DijhAino sarakhI karavAmAM AvI ane e rIte A smArakone jovAlAyaka banAvavAmAM AvyAM. ame A badhI prAcIna imArato nihALI rahyA hatA te vakhate keTalIka sthAnika mahilAo tyAM AvI pahoMcI hatI. amArAthI thoDuM aMtara rAkhIne teo pAchaLa pAchaLa cAlI rahI hatI. videzI pravAsIone nihALavAnA kautukathI keTalIka vAra sthAnika loko vIMTaLAya evA prasaMgo duniyAmAM ghaNe sthaLe bane che. paraMtu A mahilAonA caherA para kautukano nahi paNa dInatAno bhAva hato. keTalIke nAnuM bALaka paNa teyuM hatuM. bhIkha mAgavAno temano Azaya hoya ema jaNAtuM hatuM. chatAM koIe hAtha lAMbo karyo nahoto. soviyeTa yuniyanamAM tyAre bhIkha mAgavA upara ane bhIkha ApavA upara kaDaka pratibaMdha hato. amArA gAiDa zAkhobe kahyuM, 'ahIM keTalIka mahilAo bhIkha mAgavA Ave che, paraMtu maherabAnI karIne koIne kazuM Apazo nahi.' paraMtu ahIM garIba lokonAM mATInAM nAnAM nAnAM gharo joIne amane thayuM ke soviyeTa yuniyanamAM sAmyavAda hovA chatAM ATalAM badhAM varSe paNa ahIMnA A lokonI sukhAkArImAM khAsa kaMI pharaka paDyo nathI. registAnamAM rahetI ahIMnI A gorI cAmaDIvALI mahilAo jANe varSothI nAhI na hoya evI lAgatI hatI. emanAM melAM vastra paNa kALAbhUkharA raMganAM hatAM. paraMtu emaNe teDelAM bALako gorA bharAvadAra caherAvALAM hatAM. emane sArI rIte snAna karAvIne suMdara vastrothI susajja karavAmAM Ave to jANe rAjakumAra ke rAjakuMvarI jevA lAge. kone khabara che ke taimuranA ja e vaMzajo nahi hoya ! smArako joI ame badhA rastA para AvyA ane dhIme dhIme gAiDanI pAchaLa cAlavA lAgyA. amArI pAchaLa mahilAo paNa cAlatI hatI. teo thoDI vAra amArI sAme tAkI rahe ane thoDI vAra rastAne cheDe jue. kema Ama kare che tenuM anumAna karatAM jaNAyuM ke rastAne cheDe eka polIsa pharaja upara Ubho hato. enA dekhatAM teo bhIkha mAgavA nahotI icchatI.

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samarakaMda 157 rasto pUro thatAM ame bIjI dizAmAM vaLyA. have polIsa dekhAto baMdha thayo. tarata e mahilAo amArI pAse AvI. hAtha lAMbo karyo. bhASA to AvaDatI nahotI. potAnA bALaka mATe bhIkha mAge che evo izAro karI UMkAro bhaNyo. ame joI rahyA. bhIkha ApavI ke na ApavI enI vimAsaNamAM paDI gayA. mahilAo ane bALakone jotAM anukaMpAno bhAva thayA vagara rahe nahi. ame pAMca pAMca rUbalanI noTa e darekane ApI. noTa maLatAM ja e mahilAo kSaNavAramAM jhaDapathI kayAMnI kayAM cAlI gaI. jANe kazuM banyuM ja na hoya ! sarakArI kAyadA pramANe ame ke te mahilAoe yogya karyuM na kahevAya. bIjI bAju vAstavikatA jotAM aMtaHkaraNanA Adezane anusaravAnuM amane yogya lAgyuM. samarakaMdanI A ghaTanAe prajAonI caDatIpaDatInA itihAsane najara samakSa tAdaza karyo. kavi malabArInI paMkti mArA mukhamAMthI sarI paDI, 'sagAM dIThAM meM zAhaAlamanAM, bhIkha mAMgatAM zerIe.

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24 eskimonI nagarImAM 1991nA unALAmAM eka divasa vahelI savAre muMbaImAM amArA ghare TeliphonanI ghaMTaDI raNakI. risIvara kAne dharyuM tyAM avAja saMbhaLAyo : 'huM amitAbha boluM chuM.... paoNinTa berothI.' 'hoya nahi.... majAka to nathI karatA ne ?' meM kahyuM. amerikAmAM rahetA amArA putra ci. amitAbhano phona hato. 'uttara dhruvanI zodhasaphara' nAmano graMtha meM lakhyo hato tyArathI dhruva pradezamAM javAnI mArI jhaMkhanA vize e jANato hato. 1991mAM amerikAmAM huM hato tyAre alAskA ane temAM paNa TheTha paoNinTa bero sudhI javAnI mArI icchA hatI, paNa te saphaLa thaI nahotI. eTale amitAbha majAkamAM bole emAM navAI nahotI. paraMtu amitAbhe kahyuM, 'nA, majAka nathI karato. sAce ja kahuM chuM. ame traNe sAnaphrAnsisko AvyAM hatAM. tyAMthI thayuM ke cAlo alAskA jaI AvIe, eTale ame alAskAmAM AvyAM chIe. emAM Aje paoNinTa beromAM chIe.' TheTha ArkaTika sarkala(uttara dhruva pradeza)mAM paoNinTa berothI sIdho muMbaI phona Ave eTale meM harSa sAthe romAMca anubhavyo. meM kahyuM, 'paoNinTa bero javAnuM mAruM svapna te pAra pADyuM ethI bahu ja AnaMda thAya che ! paNa tyAMnuM havAmAna kevuM che ?' meM 'savAre sAruM hatuM, paNa atyAre ekadama bagaDyuM che eTale amAruM vimAna UpaDe ema nathI. amAre rAtre hoTelamAM ja rokAvuM paDaze. kAle havAmAna sudharaze to vimAna UpaDaze.' 'tame cAra mahinAnA dIkarA arcitane laIne paoNinTa bero pahoMcyAM, to ThaMDImAM ene sAcavajo. mane ciMtA thAya che.' 'ciMtA karavA jevuM nathI. ame hoTelamAMthI bahAra javAnAM nathI. Akho divasa vAtAvaraNa sAruM hatuM tyAre pharI lIdhuM. rUmamAM hITara che eTale jarAya vAMdho nathI.' 'bhale.... tyAMthI pAchA pharo tyAre phona karajo.' 'ame alAskA joyuM. have tame amerikA Avo tyAre tamane alAskA ane paoNinTa bero acUka batAvavAM che.' 'vAha....sarasa.' ...ane bIje ja varase, 1992nA unALAmAM alAskA javAnuM amAruM svapna sAkAra thayuM. ame bhAratathI bosTana-ekTanamAM amitAbhane ghare pahoMcyAM. eNe 158

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eskimonI nagarImAM 159 oNphisamAMthI rajA lIdhI. alAskA mATe karelA Ayojana pramANe mArAM patnI ane huM amitAbha sAthe bosTanathI enkareja gayAM. tyAM moTarakAra bhADe rAkhI ame jude juda sthaLe pharyA. enkarejathI ame pherabesa gayAM. tyAM AsapAsa pharyA. have amAre jyAM eskimAM loko vase che e nagarI poInTa bero javAnuM hatuM. pherabenkasathI paoNInTa berono moTara-rasto nathI. rasto banAvavAnuM ghaNuM kaparuM kAma che, kAraNa ke vacamAM moTI moTI kAdaviyA khADIo Ave che. keTalAMka varSa pahelAM amerikAnA dhruva pradezamAMthI tela nIkaLyuM tyArathI tyAM javA mATe vimAna sevA cAlu thaI che jeno lAbha paoNInTa berone paNa maLyo che. pherabenkasathI sIdhI lITIe paoNInTa bero lagabhaga traNaso trIsa mAIla thAya. eTale ja eskimonA pradezamAM have jaI zakAya che. jayAre pherabeksathI paoNInTa bero pagapALA javuM paDatuM hatuM tyAre koNa jatuM hoya ? koIka sAhasiko jAnanuM jokhama vahorIne A vikaTa pradezamAM jatA. A vistAramAM havAmAna paNa anizcita; ziyALAmAM, jAnyuArI mahinAmAM to pAro zUnya aMzanI nIce (Minus Degree) 60-70 aMza sudhI jato hoya che. eskimo loko paNa tyAM kevI rIte jIvI zaktA haze tenuM Azcarya thAya. pherabesathI paoNInTa bero "mArka eNra' kaMpanInuM vimAna unALAmAM havAmAna sAruM hoya tyAre jAya che ane e pramANe pAchuM Ave che. amitAbhe kahyuM, vimAna kaMpanImAM jaI ApaNI paoNInTa beronI TikiTa laI AvuM chuM. tyAM sudhI tame ArAma karo." 'ArAma karavA karatAM tArI sAthe AvIe. jarA pharavA maLaze.' 'paNa tamArI tyAM kaI jarUra nathI. TikiTa laIne AvatAM bahu vAra nahi lAge.' amitAbhanI IcchA nahotI, topaNa ame to taiyAra thaI gayAM ane gADImAM beThAM. vimAna kaMpanImAM pahoMcyAM. bIjA divasanI TikiTa maLatI hatI. havAmAna sAruM hatuM. topaNa vimAna UpaDatI vakhate je chello ahevAla hoya te pramANe nakkI thAya ke vimAna upADavuM ke nahi. 'paoNInTa be javAnuM keTaluM bhADuM che ?' mArAthI sahaja puchAI gayuM. 'bhADuM jANIne zuM kAma che ? ApaNe kayAM rokaDA ApavAnA che ? kreDiTa kArDa ApIzuM eTale mArA khAtAmAM udhArAI jaze,' amitAbhe kahyuM. 'topaNa ApaNane khyAla Ave ke keTaluM bhADuM thAya che,' meM kahyuM. tyAM to kAunTara para beThelI yuvatIe kahyuM, "sADAcAraso DaoNlara, riTarna TikiTanA." traNa jaNanA ? eTale ekanA doDhaso DaoNlara ? A to bahu moMghuM kahevAya.' nA, eka jaNanA sADAcAraso DaoNlara." eka jaNanA ? bApa re!' ame to chaka thaI gayAM. meM amitAbhane kahyuM, 'rUpiyAmAM gaNatarI gaNIe to eka jaNanA paMdareka hajAra rUpiyA thayA. traNa jaNanA pistAlIsa

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160 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana hajAra rUpiyA phakta bAra kalAkanA pravAsa mATe kharcavAnA. ApaNane e na posAya. ApaNe bero javAnuM mAMDI vALIe.' amitAbhe kahyuM, 'eTalA mATe ja huM tamane mArI sAthe TikiTa mATe AvavAnI nA pADato hato. ApaNe bAjumAM besI, zAMtithI vicAra karIne nirNaya karIe.' ame thoDe dUra eka sophAmAM beThAM. meM kahyuM, 'bero joyA vagara ApaNe rahI gayA nathI. ema to bIjA ghaNA dezo joyA nathI ane have to keseTa-calacitramAM badhuM jovA maLe che.' amitAbhe kahyuM, 'tamArA rasano A viSaya che. tame uttara dhruva vize graMtha lakhyo che. eskimonI vacce javAnI A taka maLI che. TheTha pherabeksa sudhI AvyA cho. vaLI havAmAna anukULa che. ghaNA loko havAmAnane kAraNe joyA vagara pAchA jAya che. AvI taka jiMdagImAM pharI vAra maLe ke na maLe. kUvA pAse AvIne tarasyA javA jevuM thaze. tame DaoNlarano vicAra nahi karatA. ame gaye varSe eTalA DaoNlara kharcIne gayAM ja hatAM ne ? alAskAmAM to badhuM modhuM ja hoya. emAM paNa beronI phalAITa sauthI moMdhI che.... paNa ema kahone ke kaMpanIo phalAITa calAve che to ApaNe tyAM jaI zakIe chIe.' paoNInTa bero javuM ke nahi tenI carcA karatAM amArI sAme cAra vikalpa hatA. kAM to bilakula javuM nahi, kAM to eka jaNa (huM) jAya, kAM to be jaNa jAya, kAM to traNe jaNa jAya - A cAre vikalponI pUrI vicAraNA karyA pachI chevaTe ema nakkI thayuM ke amitAbha na Ave, kAraNa ke eNe bero joyuM che paraMtu amAre baMnee javuM. pAMsaThanI umara vaTAvI cUkelAM potAnAM mAtApitAne ekalAM AvA vikaTa pradezamAM mokalatAM amitAbhano jIva cAlato nahoto, paraMtu meM kahyuM, 'amane ekalAM javAmAM jarAya vAMdho nahi Ave. kharAba havAmAnane kAraNe ekAdaba divasa tyAM rokAI javuM paDe topaNa manathI ame taiyAra chIe.' - ame paoNInTa beronI be TikiTa lIdhI. bIje divase savAre amitAbha amane eNraporTa mUkavA Avyo. vimAna UpaDyA pachI te pherabeksamAM AvelI alAskana yunivarsiTImAM potAnuM kAma patAvavAno hato. dara doDhabe kalAke te vimAna kaMpanI sAthe phonathI saMparkamAM raheze ke jethI havAmAna ane vimAnanA pAchA pharavA vize mAhitI maLatI rahe. pherabeksathI amAruM vimAna UpaDyuM. AkAza svaccha hatuM. vimAnamAM aDadhAthI ochA pravAsIo hatA eTale koI paNa bAjunI bArI pAse besI bahAranuM dazya joI zakAtuM hatuM. jeTa vimAna uttara dizA tarapha gati karatuM hatuM. nIcenA pradezamAM vRkSo ochAM ne ochAM thatAM jatAM hatAM. DuMgarALa jamIna ane kAdaviyA khADIo dekhAtI hatI. jamaNI bAju samudra dekhAvA lAgyo. kinAre pANI ane vacamAM thIjIne barapha thayo hoya evuM dekhAvA lAgyuM. baraphanuM pramANa have vadhatuM gayuM ane pachI to Akho samudra thIjIne barapha thaI gayelo dekhAyo. dariyAnA pANI svaccha eTale barapha paNa zveta. upara svaccha bhUruM AkAza ane nIre bhUrI jhAMya sAthe dUdha jevo zveta samathaLa pradeza ! mAIlonA

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eskimonI nagarImAM 161 mAIlo sudhI vRkSavihIna baraphIlI bhUminuM dazya jotAM AMkho dharAtI nahotI. jANe kSIrasamudra na hoya! A samudra che evuM koIne kahyuM na hoya ane mANasa pahelI vAra AvuM dazya jue to e mAnI na zake. AvuM bhavya dazya jovA maLe e paNa jIvananI eka dhanyatA gaNAya. phoTAmAM ke philmamAM AvuM dazya jovuM te eka anubhava che ane narI AMkhe A pradezanuM vAstavika darzana karavuM e bIjI vAta che. jAtaanubhava vaDe ja e samajI zakAya evuM che. saikA-be saikA pahelAM ahIM AvelA zodha pharIone paNa AvuM dazya jovA nathI maLyuM, kAraNa ke nIce jamIna para UbhA hoIe to thIjelA samudrano ATalo badho vyApa jovA na maLe. vIsapacIsa hajAra phUTa UMce UDatA vimAnamAMthI dUra dUra sudhIno keTalo badho vistAra dekhAya ! badhA ja pravAsIo bahAranAM dazyo jovAmAM magna hatA tyAM kepTane mAIkamAM jAhera karyuM, have dhyAnathI jozo, jamaNI bAju thoDI vAramAM tamane karibanuM eka ToLuM doDatuM pasAra thatuM dekhAze." karibu eTale dhruvapradezanuM haraNa. karibanuM ToLuM dekhAyuM ane badhA harakhanI kikiyArI karavA lAgyA. dhruvapradezamAM barapha jamIna para hoya che ane samudranAM pANI para paNa hoya che. unALAnA traNeka mahinA barapha pIgaLato jAya che. jyAM barapha ogaLIne enuM thara pAtaLuM thatuM jatuM hoya ane enI nIce jamIna hoya to eTalo bhAga bhUkharo dekhAto hato. jyAM jamIna parano badho barapha ogaLI gayo hato ane jamIna dekhAtI hatI e jamInanA cheDe AvelA samudranA kinArA parano thoDo barapha jyAM ogaLyo hato tyAM hiloLA letuM pANI dekhAtuM hatuM. samudramAM vacce paNa jyAM jyAM badho barapha ogaLavA Avyo hoya tyAM pANInAM kUMDALAM dekhAtAM hatAM. aDadhe raste amAruM vimAna mudho be (Prudhoe Bay) nAmanA sthaLe UtaryuM. amerikAne uttara dhruvanA pradezamAMthI je tela maLyuM te A sthaLa, paNa ahIM dasa mahinA barapha hoya. tela bharavA mATe sTImara AvI zake nahi. eTale ahIMthI nIkaLatuM tela pAIpa vaDe vAlDijha laI javAmAM AvyuM. 800 mAIlanI A pAIpalAIna bAMdhavAnuM gaMjAvara kAma amerikAnA Ijanerone dhanyavAda apAve evuM che. vimAnamAMthI keTalAka pravAsIo mudho be UtarI gayA. oNIla kaMpanInA te karmacArIo hatA. samaya thayo eTale vimAna pAchuM AkAzamAM adhdhara thaI gayuM. pharI dhruvasamudranuM e ja manohara dazya ane satata joyA karyuM. samaya kyAM gayo tenI khabara na rahI. tyAM to beThakanA paTTA bAMdhavAnI sUcanA jAhera thaI. thoDI vAramAM to paoNInTa beronA eraporTa para 11

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162 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana vimAne utarANa karI paNa lIdhuM. ArkaTika sarkalanI rekhAthI paNa uttare 330 mAIla para AvelI eskimonI nagarImAM ame AvI pahoMcyA. jIvananuM eka svapna sAkAra thayuM. vimAnamAMthI ame daseka pravAsI UtaranArA hatA. amArA be sivAya bAkInA amerikana hatA. eNrapaoNrTanA makAnamAM dAkhala thatAM ja sthAnika gAIDa yuvatIe amAruM svAgata karyuM. amAre mATe kaoNphI taiyAra hatI. kaoNphI pIne basamAM beThAM tyAM gAIDe kahyuM, 'A dhruvapradezamAM ThaMDI asahya hoya che. tame garama kapaDAM to paheryA ja che, chatAM tamane salAha che ke pUratI saMbhALa rAkhajo. tamArI darekanI beThaka para eka 'pArakA' che (pArakA e eskimAM lokonuM pavana ane ThaMDIthI bacavA mATenuM khAsa banAveluM vastra che). pArakA paheryA vagara tamAre basamAMthI nIce na UtaravuM, nahi to ThaMDI tamArA zarIramAM ghUsI jaze.' paoNInTa bero lagabhaga cAra hajAra eskimonI vastIvALuM nAnakaDuM gAma che ema kahI zakAya. doDha-be mAIlanA vistAramAM AkhuM gAma pUruM thaI jAya. eNrarporTathI amane zaheramAM vacce AvelI hoTela para laI javAmAM AvyAM. hoTelanuM nAma paNa yogya ja hatuM : Top of the world. amane badhAMne tyAM bhojana ApavAmAM AvyuM. bhojana pachI ame basamAM beThAM eTale gAIDe eskimono paricaya ApatAM kahyuM : "dharatInA uttara cheDe vaselI ane himapraderAmAM vicaranArI jAti tarIke eskimone ApaNe jANIe chIe. barapha emanA jIvana sAthe vaNAI gayA che. amerikAnI uttare alAskAmAM, raziyAnI uttare sAIbiriyAmAM ane yuropanI uttare grInalenDamAM, e rIte samagra ArkaTika sarkalamAM, dhruvapradezamAM eskimono vasavATa che. eskimo pote potAnI jAtane "inyuITa' athavA 'yuITa' tarIke oLakhAve che. emanI bhASAmAM A zabdano artha thAya che "mANasa. sapheda rIMcha, vaoNlarasa, sIla, karibu vagere prANIo vacce baraphamAM rahenAro mANasa potAne bIjAM prANIothI judo pADavA mANasa' tarIke oLakhAve e svAbhAvika che. emane mATe "eskimo' zabda prayojanAra che amerikAnA reDa inDiyano. reDa InDiyananI bhASAmAM 'eskimo' zabdano artha thAya che kAcuM mAMsa khAnAra.' reDa inDiyano 'eskimone aNaghaDa mANaso tarIke oLakhavA lAgyA hatA. dhruvapradezamAM anAja ke phaLaphUla ugatAM nathI, eTale eskimone zikAra upara ja nabhavuM paDe. jyAre agni pragaTAvavAnAM sAdhano sulabha nahotAM ane himavarSAmAM rAMdhavAnuM zakya nahotuM tyAre eskimo kAcuM mAMsa khAvAne TevAyelA hoya e dekhItuM che. joke havenA eskimomAM thoDo pharaka paDyo che. teo rAMdhelo khorAka khAya che. tame juo cho ke eskimonA caherA moMgoliyana jevA goLa, pahoLA ane bharAvadAra che. teo saheja ThIMgaNA ane jADA che. temanuM nAka capaTuM hoya che ane AMkho saheja jhINI ane cheDethI DhaLatI hoya che. eskimo bALaka janme tyAre enI karoDarajjunI nIce AchA vAdaLI raMganuM nAnuM lAbuM hoya che.'

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eslimonI nagarImAM 163. eskima vize ghaNA abhyAsagraMtho judA judA daSTikoNathI lakhAyA che ane philmo paNa UtarI che. alAskA, sAIbiriyA ane grInalaeNnDanA eskimo vacce zo pharaka che tathA saheja nIce AvelA elyuziyana TApunA elyuTa loko ane A bAjunA bIjA AdivAsIo vacce zo pharaka che teno paNa abhyAsa thayo che. gAIDa eskimo vize amane aitihAsika mAhitI ApatI hatI ane basamAM beThAM beThAM ame rastA para avarajavara karatA eskimone nihALatAM hatAM. A nAnI nagarImAM jUnI peDhInA ane sudharelA ema baMne prakAranA eskimo amane jovA maLyA. ahIM vIjaLInA dIvA, vIjaLIthI cAlatAM yaMtro, hITara, TI.vI., Teliphona, moTaragADI vagere Adhunika sAdhano pahoMcI gayAM hovAthI AjanA eskimo emanA pUrvajo jevA rahyA nathI. eskimo chokarA chokarIo zALAmAM IMgliza zIkhavA lAgyAM che. keTalAMkanAM saMtAno vimAnavyavahAranI suvidhA thavAthI pherabeksa, enkareja ke amerikAnAM bIjAM zaheromAM bhaNavA, pharavA ke nokarI karavA javA lAgyA che. bIjI bAju eNrapaoNrTa, hoTela tathA anya vyavasAya mATe keTalAka amerikanoe ahIM vasavATa karyo che. amArI gAIDa dara varSe unALAmAM traNa-cAra mahinA ahIM AvIne rahe che. eskimAM lokonI eka zArIrika lAkSaNikatA noMdhavA jevI che. uttara dhruvanA ThaMDA pradezomAM jema upara jatA jaIe tema mANasonI cAmaDI vadhu ne vadhu sapheda jovA maLe, paraMtu eskimo bAremAsa baraphavALA atizaya ThaMDA pradezamAM rahetA hovA chatAM temanI cAmaDIne raMga ratAza paDato che ane koI koIno to ghauvaNa che. saikAo pUrve teo pesiphikanA TApuo parathI sthaLAMtara karatA AvyA haze mATe teonI A AnuvaMzika lAkSaNikatA haja TakI rahI haze ema manAya che. ame eskimonA vistAramAM cakakara mAryA. ghaNAkharA eskimonAM ghara lAkaDAnI nAnImoTI kebino jevAM hatAM. bhAratamAM gAmaDAMonA loko lAkaDAnI kebinamAM nAnI dukAno kare che enI yAda A gharoe apAvI. eka sthaLethI khaseDI bIje sthaLe laI javAya athavA barapha jamIna para vadhato jAya tema tema ghara UMcAM levAtAM jAya. jUnA vakhatamAM jyAre vIjaLInA dIvA nahotA tyAre esikamo baraphamAM ghara banAvIne rahetA. e gharone "Igla' kahe che. amane namUnArUpa eka igla' batAvavAmAM AvyuM, paraMtu have iglamAM rahevAnuM lagabhaga nIkaLI gayuM che. baraphamAM dUradUra zikAra mATe jAya ane rAta rokAvuM paDe to kalAkamAM Igla banAvI levAya che, paNa have zikAra mATe divasonA divaso sudhI rakhaDavAnuM ochuM thaI gayuM che. eskimo paNa have gharamAM hITara rAkhatA thaI gayA che. eskimAM gaMdA loko che evuM kahevAnuM na game. ThaMDIne lIdhe nAhavAno rivAja temanAmAM na hoya e samajI zakAya evuM che. topaNa kacarA mATe emane bahu sUga hoya evuM jaNAyuM nahi. paoNinTa berone eka svaccha nagarI tarIke ApaNe na gaNAvI zakIe.

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164 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana kayAMka kyAMka kacarAnA DhagalA paDyA hatA. gAIDe kahyuM ke cAre bAju jyAM barapha hoya tyAM kacaro nAkhe kyAM ? mATImAM paDelo kacaro taDakAthI mATI jevo thaI jAya che. pANImAM paDelo kacaro pANImAM ogaLI jAya che, paNa baraphamAM paDelA kacarAnuM zuM ? e to evo ne evo ja rahe che. unALAmAM jyAre barapha ogaLe ane samudramAM sarakhuM pANI thayuM hoya tyAre kacarA mATe khAsa sTImara ahIM Ave che ane badho kacaro upADI jAya che, paNa e to varSamAM eka vakhata ja. poInTa beromAM amane AvyAne pAMca kalAka thaI gayA hatA chatAM sUrya to savAre jyAM hato tyAM ja hato. bhAratamAM sAMjanA cAreka vAge AkAzamAM kSitijathI UMce jevo sUrya dekhAya ane taDako kaMIka saumya banyo hoya evI rIte ahIM taDakAno ane sUryano dekhAva hato. AkAza svaccha hatuM ane sUrya prakAzato hato chatAM nIce dharatI para amane sakhata ThaMDI lAgatI hatI. dhruvapradezanI lAkSaNikatA to e che ke unALAmAM methI oNgasTa sudhImAM ochAmAM ochA 82 divasa sudhI sUrya bilakula asta pAmato nathI. norve, svIDana ke raziyAnI uttare rAtanA sADA agiyAra - bAra vAge paNa sUrya Mid-night sun joyo hato, paraMtu ahIM paoNinTa beromAM covIse kalAka AkAzamAM sUrya prakAzato rahe che. ahIM sUrya varSamAM kyAreya madhyAkAze Avato nathI, paraMtu satata poNA traNa mahinA sUrya AkAzamAM rahe e ghaTanA virala ane vilakSaNa che. tevI rIte ziyALAmAM navembarathI jAnyuArI sudhImAM lagabhaga savA be mahinA sudhI sUrya kyAreya kSitijanI upara Avato nathI. sUryodaya thato nathI. cha mahinAno divasa ane cha mahinAnI rAtri jevuM nathI hotuM, paraMtu traNa mahinAno divasa ane savA be mahinAnI rAtri jevuM ahIM avazya hoya che. ApaNe kALanI gaNanA sUryodaya ane sUryAsta anusAra karIe chIe. covIsa kalAkanI vaheMcaNI ApaNe e rIte karI che. sUryodaya ane sUryAstane lIdhe kALa pasAra thato hoya ema ApaNane lAge che, paNa kALa jANe sthira thaI gayo hoya evo anubhava ahIM dhruvapradezamAM amane thayo. ApaNe eka varSa barAbara devalokanA davAno eka divasa evI paurANika vAta ApaNe sAMbhaLIe chIe, paraMtu ApaNA traNa mahinA barAbara eskimono eka divasa e to ApaNe jAte ahIM anubhavI zakIe chIe. ajavALuM hoya ke aMdhAruM, bhUkha lAge tyAre khAvuM ane thAka lAge tyAre UMghI javuM evo kudaratI krama emano hoya che. have ahIM ghaDiyALa ane kelenDara AvyAM, paNa saikA pahelAM jyAre ahIM ghaDiyALa ke kelenDara na hatAM tyAre eskimo zArIrika hAjata anusAra potAnuM jIvana jIvatA hatA. gAIDe kahyuM, 'ahIM unALAmAM havAmAna jyAre bahu kharAba hoya, pavana jorajorathI phUMkAto hoya ane baraphanA kaNa havAmAM UDatA hoya tyAre AkAzamAM tamane ekane badale be sUrya dekhAya. prathama najare to tame e dazyane sAcuM ja mAnI lo eTaluM AbehUba e

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eskimonI nagarImAM 165 hoya che. vaLI ziyALAnI rAtrinA aMdhakAramAM tamane AkAzamAM prakAzanA bhUrA, lIlA moTA lAMbA lisoTA dekhAya, jene arorA borelisa' (Aurora Borealis) kahe che.' ame basamAM AgaLa cAlyAM. gAIDe kahyuM, have ame tamane amArA nezanala pArka jevA laI jaIe chIe." pArka ? dhruvapradezamAM ? tame majAka to nathI karatAM ne ?' koIke prazna karyo. 'nA, sAcuM ja kahuM chuM." gAIDe kahyuM. "kadAca pArkanI koI philma batAvavAnA haze !' bIjA koIke kahyuM. athavA pArkano bIjo kaMI artha thato haze. trIjA koIka kahyuM. tyAM to basa UbhI rahI. gAIDe UtarIne kahyuM, "ahIM mArI pAchaLa pAchaLa Avo.' ame enI pAchaLa cAlyA. eka jagyAe thobhIne eNe kahyuM, "A amAro paoNInTa berono nezanala pArka.' 'paNa pArka kyAM che ?' 'tamArA paga nIce. tame dhArIne jozo to khAtarI thaze." badhAe potapotAnA paga AgaLa joyuM. gAIDe kahyuM, 'ahIM mATImAM ekabe IMca jeTaluM chUTuMchavAyuM ghAsa UgyuM che. A ghAsane taMdrA (Tundra) kahevAmAM Ave che. ATalI amArI vanaspati. phakta be-aDhI mahinA ene UgavA maLe che. bAre mAsa kAyama UgavA maLe to ahIM moTo pArka thaI jAya. barapha ane ThaMDI cAlu thAya eTale ghAsa khalAsa thaI jAya. A ghAsa upara amArAM kariba nabhe che. jema jema ThaMDI paDatI jAya tema tema teo AdhAM khasatAM jAya ke jyAM emane ghAsacAro maLI rahe, paNa unALo Ave eTale te A bAju tAjuM ghAsa khAvA doDI Ave. emAMnAM keTalAMye eskimonA zikArano bhoga bane.' amArI basa AgaLa cAlI. jyAM jyAM barapha ogaLavAne lIdhe samudranA pANIvALo kinAro spaSTa dekhAto hato te kinAre kinAre DrAIvare basa haMkArI, tyAra pachI uttara dizA tarapha jatI jamInanI lAMbI paTTI jevA kAcA raste amArI basa AgaLa vadhI ane paTTI pUrI thaI tyAM basa UbhI rahI. gAIDe kahyuM, basa, dharatIno cheDo ahIM pUro thAya che. uttara dizAnuM A chelluM bhUmi-biMdu che. Ane paoNInTa kahe che. A paoNInTa bero." samudramAM jamInanI saMkaDI paTTIno cheDo te paoNInTa e sAMbhaLatAM muMbaImAM narImAna paoNInTanuM amane smaraNa thayuM. ahIM paoNInTa berothI uttara dhruva samudra cAlu thAya, jenA upara bAre mAsa barapha rahe che. ahIMthI 800 mAIla dUra uttara dhruvanuM biMdu AvyuM. pRthvImAM ATalo vizALa baraphalo dariyo bIje kayAMya nathI. jo A badho barapha acAnaka ogaLe to AkhI pRthvI DUbI jAya. pralaya thAya.

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana A uttara dhruva samudranuM tAjuM pIgaLeluM jaLa hAtha boLIe to thIjI jAya eTaluM badhuM ThaMDuM hatuM, paNa ahIM AvIne eno sparza karyA vagara jaIe te kema cAle? ame hAthanAM mojAM utArI, aMjalimAM jala laI mastake caDAvyuM ! Acamana karyuM ! poInTa joIne ame pAchAM pharyA. amane have eskimono manoraMjana kAryakrama jovA laI gayA. eka vizALa holamAM ghaNAM badhAM eskimo strIpuruSo potAno khAsa paheraveza paherIne AvyAM hatAM. potAnAM DholanagArAM ane pipUDI jevAM vAjiMtrothI emaNe vAtAvaraNane gajavI mUkyuM. jAtajAtanAM nRtya karyA. chokarAonI ramato thaI. eskimonI eka khAsa priya ramata te bALakane hiMcoLavAnI che. cAmaDAmAMthI gUMtheluM, eka moTI cAdara jevuM vastra cAra jaNa cAra khUNethI pakaDIne UbhA rahe. pachI emAM AThadasa varSanA eka bALakane besADavAmAM Ave. teo gAtA jAya ane bALakane hIMcoLatA jAya. ema karatAM karatAM badhA sAthe maLIne cAdarane jorathI AMcako ApIne bALakane pAMcasAta phUTa UMce adhdhara uchALe ane pAchuM jhIlI le. eskimonI AnaMdakillolanI vividha ramato ame joI. keTalIkamAM ame pravAsIo paNa joDAyA. zikAra mATe teo kevAM kevAM sAdhano vApare che, cAmaDAne kevI rIte sApha karI sUkave che, temAMthI kevI cIjavastuo banAve che, vaoNlarasanA dAMtamAMthI kevAM ghareNAM banAve che e badhuM amane samajAvavAmAM AvyuM. manoraMjana kAryakrama pachI teo amane potAnA vecANa vibhAgamAM laI gayA. ochI sAdhanasAmagrI ane puSkaLa phAjala samaya - evI jIvanazailInA pariNAmarUpe keTalI badhI jAtanI cIjavastuo teoe banAvI hatI ! dhruvapradezamAM na koI vRkSa Uge. mAtra prANIo ja. eTale ghaNIkharI vastuo cAmaDAmAMthI ja banAvelI hatI, paNa emAM emanI kalArasikatA dekhAtI hatI. paoNInTa beronI mulAkAtano goThavAyelo amAro kAryakrama pUro thayo. hoTela para AvIne ame badhAMe kaoNphI pIdhI. have AkAzamAM havAmAna vimAna UpaDI zake tevuM sAnukULa che ke kema teno pherabenkasathI saMdezo Ave enI amAre rAha jovAnI hatI. amArI bhAvanA to sAmAyika karavAnI hatI, paraMtu eTalo samaya nahoto eTale maLelA samayamAM ame navakAramaMtra, bhaktAmara Adi stuti karI lIdhI. saMdezo AvatAM ame basamAM beThAM. ghaDiyALanA kAMTA pramANe rAta thaI gaI hatI, paraMtu sUrya to AkAzamAM enA e ja sthaLe hato. paoNInTa beronI amArI mulAkAtanI yAdagIrI rUpe amane badhAne amArA darekanA nAma lakhIne, baraphamAM cAlatI kUtarAgADInAM citravALAM pramANapatra ApavAmAM AvyAM. hRSTapuSTa zArIravALA, goLamaToLa bharAvadAra caherAvALA, hasamukhA, nijAnaMde masta, maLatAvaDA svabhAvavALA, zAnticAhaka ane sahakAranI bhAvanAvALA eskimo lokonI ame vidAya lIdhI. pAMca miniTamAM to eNraporTa

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139 eskimonI nagarImAM pahocI gayAM. gAIDa amane badhAne vimAnamAM aMdara besADI gaI ane sasmita hAtha halAvatI vidAya letI cAlI gaI. | vimAne paoNInTa beronI dharatI choDI. pharI e ja dazyo vimAnamAMthI javAno lahAvo sAMpaDyo. mudho be thaI pherabephasa ame AvI pahoMcyAM. amane teDavA mATe amitAbha eNraporTa para AvI pahoMcyo hato. amArI salAmata, sukhada ane samayasaranI yAtrAthI eNe paNa harSa-zAnti anubhavyAM. paoNInTa beronI amArI mulAkAtano virala anubhava amArA jIvanamAM eka dhanya, avismaraNIya apUrva avasara banI rahyo ! !

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25 ijiptanA visA eka divasa evo hato ke jyAre bhAratIya nAgarikane IjisanA visA levAnI jarUra nahotI. bhAratanI AjhAdI pachI briTiza sAmrAjya-British Empire nuM visarjana thayuM. ene badale briTiza rASTrasamUha-British Commonwealth-nI racanA thaI. A rASTrasamUhanA nAgarikone ekabIjAnAM rASTramAM javA mATe koI visAnI jarUra nahotI, paraMtu vadhatI jatI gunAkhorI, gunegAronI eka dezamAMthI bIjA dezamAM bhAgAbhAga, dANacoronI ane AtaMkavAdIonI gupta pravRttio, be rASTro vacce paraspara aNabanAva, vadhato jato vahIvaTI kharca ityAdine kAraNe rASTrasamUhanA badhA dezo vacce dhIme dhIme visAnI paddhati dAkhala thaI gaI eTaluM ja nahi, visA ApavA mATenAM kaDaka niyaMtraNo paNa AvI gayAM. ekAda saikA pahelAM evI sthiti hatI ke jyAre keTalAka dezomAM pAsaporTa ane visAnI paddhati nahotI. tyAre evI bahu jarUra paNa nahotI, kAraNa ke pravAsIonI evI avarajavara nahotI. have evI paddhati vinAno koI deza rahyo nahi hoya. mANasane potAnuM rASTra choDavA mATe pAsaporTanI ane bIjA rASTramAM dAkhala thavA mATe visAnI jarUra paDe. visA paNa amuka mudatanA ane eka ja vakhata dAkhala thavAnA (Single Entry) apAya ane vadhu vakhata dAkhala thavAnA (Multiple Entry) apAya. videzanA pravAsanAM niyaMtraNanI AMTIghUMTI divase divase vadhatI jAya che. yuropa ane amerikAnA nAgariko karatAM bhAratIya nAgariko mATe niyaMtraNo ghaNAM che. eka TrAvela kaMpanI dvArA turkastAna, grIsa ane pAchA vaLatAM ijise e rIte traNa dezono bAreka divasano pravAsa yojAyo hato. pacIseka pravAsI emAM joDAyA hatA. emAM ame traNa mitro paNa hatA. TrAvela kaMpanIe amArA dUranA kaMDakTara tarIke zaikSaNika saMsthAnA eka nivRtta adhikArI zrI gonsAlavisanI nimaNuka karI hatI. teo videzapravAsanA anubhavI hatA, paraMtu grIsanA pravAse teo pahelI ja vAra amArI sAthe AvatA hatA. amArI miTiMgamAM emaNe kahyuM, 'je grIsa javAnuM na hota to A pravAsanI javAbadArI meM svIkArI na hota. prAcIna grIka saMskRtinA avazeSo najare nihALavAnuM varSonuM mAruM svapna che. e sAkAra karavA mATe huM A pravAsamAM joDAyo chuM.' amArI phUlAITa aDadhI rAte muMbaIthI UpaDavAnI hatI. amAro pahelo mukAma IstaMbulamAM hato eTale ame sAmAna IstaMbula mATe ApI dIdho hato. amArI TikiTa 168

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ijiptanA visA 169 ijipta eNralAInsanI hatI eTale kero(sthAnika uccAra kAhirA, kAhero)mAM amAre vimAna badalavAnuM hatuM, paraMtu e mATe amAre vimAnamathakamAM TrAnjhiTa lonjamAM navadasa kalAka besI rahevAnuM hatuM. muMbaIthI UpaDI thoDA kalAkamAM ame kero pahoMcI gayA. sthAnika samaya savAranA sAteka vAgyAno hato. bapora pachI pAMceka vAge istaMbulanuM vimAna amAre pakaDavAnuM hatuM. ATalA badhA kalAka lonjamAM besI rahevuM e bahu kaMTALAjanaka hatuM. koI samRddha zaheranuM TrAnjhiTa lonja hoya to bhAtabhAtanI dukAnomAM cIjavastuo jovA-kharIdavAmAM, judAM judAM resTorAMmAM vividha vAnagIo khAvAmAM ane vizALa jagyAmAM haravApharavAmAM kalAko kyAM pasAra thaI jAya tenI khabara na paDe, paNa keromAM koI evuM AkarSaNa nahotuM. keTalAke potAno kacavATa zarU karI dIdho : 'A nAnakaDI jagyAmAM ApaNe nahAIzuM kayAM ane khAIzuM kayAM ? A te kaMI TrAnjhiTa lonja che ?' amArAmAMthI keTalAka potAnI meLe judA judA adhikArIone pUchI AvyA. koIka adhikArIe sUcavyuM ke 'tamAre sarakho ArAma karavo hoya to eNrapaoNrTanI bahAra ja paMcatAraka hoTala che. tyAM tamAre mATe cA-nAsto, baporanuM bhojana vagere sahita badhI sagavaDa thaI zake ema che. e mATe tamAre kazuM cUkavavAnuM nathI. ijipta eNralAinsanA kharce ja e sagavaDa tamane kAyadesara maLI zake ema che. ethI tamane pUrato ArAma maLaze.' dUra kaMDakTara gonsAlavisa paNa tapAsa karI AvyA ane A vAtanuM emaNe samarthana karyuM. keTalAka loko utAvaLiyA ane adhIrA hoya che. keTalAka jANe potAne ja badhI khabara hoya ema vartavA lAge che. keTalIka zrImaMta vyaktiomAM vaLI judI ja jAtano ghamaMDa hoya che. samUhamAM hoIe tyAre badhI kakSAnA mANasono vicAra karavAne badale teo paise pahoMcI vaLavAnI potAnI zaktinA tAnamAM ja hoya che. amArA grupamAM traNeka evAM yuvAna zrImaMta daMpatI hatAM. paMcatAraka hoTelanI vAta sAMbhaLatAM ja emanA caraNamAM caLa UpaDI. basa, TrAnjhiTa lonja te kaMI ArAma karavAnI jagyA che ? teoe haTha pakaDI ke jo paMcatAraka hoTelamAM javA maLatuM hoya to zA mATe na javuM ? meM mArA anubhavane AdhAre badhAne kahyuM, 'AMtararASTrIya vimAnamathakamAM TrAnjhiTa vistAramAM ApaNe hoIe tyAM sudhI ApaNA e dezanA visA vaparAtA nathI, paraMtu ApaNe kasTamsamAMthI nIkaLIne bahAra jaIe eTale ApaNA visA vaparAI jAya che. ApaNI pAse siMgala enTrI visA che. vaLI pAchA pharatAM cAra divasa ijisamAM ApaNe rahevAnuM che. ApaNe eNrapaoNrTa choDI bahAra hoTelamAM rahI zakIe chIe ane keromAM harIpharI zakIe chIe eno artha e thAya ke ApaNe TrAnjhiTa paeNsenjara nathI. ApaNA visA vaparAI jAya che. keTalAka dezomAM TrAnjhiTa paeNsenjarone eNrapaoNrTanI bahAra laI

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10 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana javAya che, basamAM pheravAya che, hoTelamAM utArAya che, paraMtu teo sattAvALAnA kabajAmAM hoya che. ahIM e pramANe nathI. eTale pUratI tapAsa karyA pachI AgaLa vadhavuM joIe.' pelAM yuvAna daMpatIoe rUAbathI kahyuM, "ame badhI tapAsa karI lIdhI che. Ijima eNralAInsanA ane eNrapaoNrTanA kasTamsanA adhikArIoe spaSTa kahyuM che ke ApaNe kAyadesara bahAra hoTelamAM jaI ArAma karI zakIe chIe.' eNralAInsanA ane kasTamsanA adhikArIonI vAta emanI daSTie sAcI hatI, paraMtu temane koIe evo prazna karyo na hato ke bahAra javAthI amArA visA vaparAI jaze ke kema ? meM gonsAlavisane kahyuM, 'tame pharIthI jaIne pUcho to kharA ke teo ApaNane TrAnjhiTa pesenjarane judo pAsa Apaze ke pAsaporTamAM visA upara sikko mAraze ?' gonsAlavise ciDAIne kahyuM, 'DaoN. zAha, tame bahu cIkAza karo cho. eNraporTanA adhikArIo ApaNane ATalo sarasa sahakAra Ape che, emAM AvI nAnI nAnI vAtanI kyAM kacakaca karavI ? ame badhI khAtarI karI lIdhI che ane badhI javAbadArI mArI che." daramiyAna amArAmAMnA keTalAka utAvaLiyA to phorma bharI, pAsaporTamAM sikko marAvI bahAra paNa nIkaLI gayA. mane thayuM ke eka ja moTA grupamAM sAthe pravAsa karatA hoIe tyAM ApaNI vAtano pachIthI bahu Agraha rAkhavAno artha nathI. saunuM thaze te ApaNuM thaze ema mAnIne ame paNa lAInamAM joDAyA ane pAsaporTamAM visA upara sikko marAvI bahAra nIkaLyA. eNrapaoNrTathI thoDA aMtare ja navI baMdhAyelI paMcatAraka hoTela dekhAtI hatI. basamAM besI ame tyAM pahoMcyA. hoTelamAM dAkhala thatAM ja badhAnAM mana praphullita thaI gayAM. AsapAsanuM prAkRtika manohara dazya, hoTelanuM khuzanumA zAnta vAtAvaraNa, vizALa taraNahoja, khAvAnI vividha vAnagIo, rUmamAM ArAmadAyaka sagavaDo ItyAdie rAtanA ujAgarAnA thAkane harI lIdho. ghaNAkharAe hoTelamAM ArAma karyo. keTalAka TeksI karI thoDe dUra AvelA pirAmiDone cakkara lagAvI AvyA. nizcita samaye ame hoTela choDI eNraporTamAM pahoMcI gayAM. ame embArkezana kArDa bharyA ane pAsaporTamAM pharIthI sikko paDyo. ethI mane to manamAM khAtarI thaI gaI ke visA vaparAI gayA che, paNa bolavAthI kaMI phAyado nathI ema lAgyuM. turkastAnanA IstaMbula zaheramAM ame nirdhArita samaye pahoMcI gayA. cAreka divasa turkastAnamAM harIpharI ame tyAMthI grIsanA pATanagara ethensa pahoMcyA. eNraporTa para sthAnika ejanTe amAruM svAgata karyuM ane hoTela para amane mUkavA Avyo. rUmonI vaheMcaNI thaI gaI, sAmAna mukAI gayo ane cA-nAsto levA ane resTorAMmAM gayA.

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ijimanA visA 171 daramiyAna ejanTe amArA pAsaporTa ane TikiTa maMgAvI lIdhAM ke jethI Ijita eNralAInsanI sthAnika ophisamAM jaI teo je phlAITamAM amAruM rijharvezana che te pAkuM karAvI le. nAsto karI nagaradarzana mATenI basanI rAha jotAM ame lonjamAM beThAM hatAM. eTalAmAM ejanTano gonsAlavisa para phona Avyo. amArI TikiTa kanpharma thaI zake ema nathI mATe emaNe tarata eNralAInsanI oNphise pahoMcavuM paDe ema hatuM. teo UpaDyA. ame nagaradarzananA kAryakrama mATe nIkaLyA. ekropolisa, DAyonisasanuM thiyeTara, olimpiyA, philopepasanI TekarI, saoNkreTisanuM sthaLa vagerenI mulAkAta laI ame sAMje hoTela para pahoMcyA tyAre gonsAlavisa nirAza vadane lonjamAM beThA hatA. emaNe kahyuM, "IjiptanA ApaNA visA vaparAI gayA che, mATe have ApaNe Ijita jaI zakIe ema nathI. sIdhA muMbaI ja javuM paDaze ema eNralAInse kahyuM che. Akho divasa ghaNI mAthAkUTa karI paNa patyuM nathI. AvatI kAle savAre pharIthI javuM paDaze.' amArA mATe ciMtAno viSaya thayo. gonsAlavisane potAnI bhUla samajAI. badhAnI javAbadArI emane mAthe AvI. bIje divase savAre ame korinthanA avazeSo jovA javAnA hatA. ame nAsto letA hatA tyAre gonsAlavise AvIne kahyuM ke potAne AkhI rAta ciMtAmAM UMgha AvI nathI. ame korintha javA UpaDyA ane gonsAlavisa IjisanI sthAnika kaoNmyuleTanI oNphise javA UpaDyA. sAMje ame pAchA pharyA tyAre gonsAlavise nirAzAjanaka samAcAra ApyA ke Ijisa kaoNmyuleTa pharIthI visA ApI zake tema nathI. bhAratIya nAgarikoe bhAratamAMthI visA levA joIe. gonsAlavisanI chAtI dhaDaka dhaDaka thatI hatI. emanA caherA para gabharAmaNa dekhAtI hatI. ame emane AzvAsana ApyuM ke 'ijisa bhale pharIthI na javAya to kaMI nahi, ApaNe sIdhA muMbaI jaIzuM.' paNa vadhArAmAM emaNe kahyuM ke vimAnamAM ATalA badhAnuM muMbaInuM rijharvezana paNa dasa divasa sudhI maLI zake ema nathI.' gonsAlavisane AkhI rAta UMgha na AvI. UMghavAnI TIkaDI levI paDI. savAre moDA UDyA. ame nAsto letA hatA tyAre AMkho coLatAM coLatAM teo resTorAMmAM AvyA. emano cahero sUjI gayo hato. amArAmAnAM eka DaoNkaTare emane tapAsyA, to jaNAyuM ke emanuM blaDaprezara vadhI gayuM hatuM. emane Akho divasa hoTelamAM ArAma karavAnI salAha ApavAmAM AvI. sthAnika ejanTe AvI amArI pAse IjisanA visAnAM phorma bharAvyAM. ame amArA phoTA ApyA. visA mATe pharIthI phI ApavAnI hatI tenA DaoNlara ApyA. amArAmAMnA eka pravAsI, ejanTane madada karavA rokAyA. teo Ijisa eNralAInsanI oNphise jaI tyAMthI muMbaInI eNksei saMdezo mokalAvaze. muMbaInI eralAInsanI oNphiksa Ijisa ,

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102 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana kaoNnsyuleTa AgaLa rajUAta karaze. e kaoNnsyuleTa grIsanI ijima konsyuleTane sUcanA Apaze to te visA Apaze. Ama mAthAkUTa ghaNI hatI. have amAro kAryakrama enjiyana samudranA TApuonI sahelagAha karavAno hato. sTImaramAM besI, sahelagAha karI sAMje ame pAchA pharyA tyAre ejanTe amane khuzakhabara ApyA ke AkhuM cakra barAbara pheravAI gayuM che eTale sadbhAgye ijimanA bIjA visA samayasara maLI gayA che. eka moTI ciMtAno viSaya TaLI gayo. videzamAM AvI samasyAno tarata ukela na Ave to kharcanA moTA khADAmAM UtaravAnuM thAya. kayAreka to eTaluM videzI calaNa paNa pAse na hoya. - gonsAlavisa davAo laI potAnI rUmamAM haju UMghatA ja hatA. teo bhojana mATe UThyA tyAre A sArA samAcAra sAMbhaLI rAhata anubhavavA lAgyA. bIje divase savAre ame ethensanA eNrapaoNrTa para pahoMcI gayA. gonsAlavisane have thoDI svasthatA jaNAtI hatI. vimAnamAM besI ame kero pahoMcyA. gonsAlavise kazuM khAdhuMpIdhuM nahi. vimAnamAM Akhe raste emaNe UMghyA ja karyuM. kero AvatAM teo thoDA vadhu svastha jaNAyA. grIsanA sAMskRtika avazeSo najare nihALavAnuM emanuM svapna UMghamAM, svapnAvasthAmAM ja vilIna thaI gayuM hatuM.

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rijensabargamAM rAtavAso kalAka pahelAM to amane khabara paNa nahotI ke amAre rAtavAso rijensabarga(Regensberg)mAM karavAno che. rijensabarganuM nAma paNa sAMbhaLyuM nahotuM. ame jarmanInA phrenkapharTa zaherathI oNsTriyAnA pATanagara viyenA javA nIkaLyAM hatAM. amArI gADInA cAlaka hatA yuropanA pravAsanA prakhara anubhavI zrI kizorabhAI. iMglenDathI mitro-saMbaMdhIone potAnI moTarakAramAM laI jaI yuropano pravAsa karAvavo e emano zokha paNa hato ane vyavasAya paNa hato. phenkapharTathI savAranA nIkaLI jude jude sthaLe pharatAM pharatAM ame viyenA tarapha AgaLa vadhatAM jatAM hatAM. kizorabhAIe ghaDiyALamAM joI kahyuM, "ramaNabhAI, sAMjanA che vAgavA AvyA che. unALAnA divaso che eTale traNa-cAra vAgyA haze evuM lAge. haju aDadho rasto paNa kapAyo nathI. tame kaho to viyenA pahoMcI jaIe ane kaho to kyAMka rAtrimukAma karI laIe.' 'zuM karIzuM ?' meM mArAM patnI tArAbahenane pUchayuM. "ApaNe kyAMka rAta rokAI jaIe. ApaNI pAse pharavAnA divaso to che, pachI zA mATe thAkIne pravAsa karavo ?' 'pappA, e ja barAbara che. rAtanA sarakhI UMgha maLI jAya eTale savAranA ArAmathI nIkaLI zakIe.' mArI putrI zailajAe kahyuM. kizorabhAIe kahyuM, "mane gADI calAvavAno vAMdho nathI, paNa huM calAvato rahuM ane tame traNe jaNa jhokAM khAtAM raho to enI majA nahi Ave. huM to AkhI rAta gADI calAvavAne TevAyelo chuM. viyenA pahoMcatAM rAtanA moDuM thaI jAya. eTale ApaNe have nirNaya laI levo joIe ke sIdhA vinA pahocavuM che ke kayAMka rAtrirokANa karI levuM che.' TheTha viyenA sudhI na pahoMcatAM rastAmAM ja koI zaheramAM rAta rokAI javAno ane nirNaya karyo. kizorabhAIe mArA hAthamAM nakazo Apyo. rastAmAM AvatAM nAnAM-moTAM nagaronAM nAma huM bolato gayA. kizorabhAIe kahyuM, "A badhAM nagaromAM rijensabarga ThIka raheze. saheja moTuM zahera che eTale hoTelo paNa sArI haze.' yuropa, amerikA vageremAM potAnI moTarakAramAM pravAsa karIe to yatheccha pharI zakIe ane marajI mujaba rAtrirokANa karI zakIe. agAuthI hoTelanuM rijharvezana karAvavAnI 173

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14 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana jarUra nahi. "rAta paDe tyAM rAtavAso' e kahevata mujaba pharI zakIe. pAMcapaMdara kilomITara AgaLapAchaLa javuM hoya, eka gAma nahi to bIjuM gAma, eka hoTela nahi to bIjI hoTela - evI pasaMdagIno avakAza rahe. vicAra badalAya ane koI nagaramAM pAchA pharavuM hoya topaNa pharI zakAya. dhorI mArga choDI ame have rijensabargano rasto lIdho. nagaramAM dAkhala thayAM, paraMtu tyAM je sArI hoTelo hatI temAM jagyA nahotI ane jemAM jagyA hatI te dArU jugAranA aA jevI hatI eTale te pasaMda na karI. tapAsa karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke zaheranI bahAra daseka kilomITara dUra, rastA para ja eka nAnI hoTela che. te moTela jevI eTale ke mAtra rAta rokAvAnI sagavaDavALI che. ame tyAM pahoMcyAM. risepzanisTa yuvatIe AvakAra Apyo. rUmo batAvI. bhAva paNa vAjabI hato. tarata nirNaya thayo. be rUma rAkhI. sAmAna mUkyo ane hAthamAM dhoI, tAjA thaI ame zaheramAM pharavA javAno vicAra karyo, kAraNa ke haju aMdhAruM thavAne vAra hatI. taiyAra thaI ame nIce kAunTara para risepzanisTa yuvatIne cAvIo ApI ane rijensabarga vize thoDI mAhitI meLavI lIdhI. vAtacIta parathI jANavA maLyuM ke ame pAchA pharIe tyAre e yuvatI ja pharaja para haze, kAraNa ke enI nokarI rAtapALInI hatI. | gADImAM besatAM meM kizorabhAIne kahyuM, "ahIM mahilAo rAtapALI paNa kare che e sArI vAta kahevAya.' AvI jagyAmAM te ekalI nokarI kare che eTale jabarI to hovI ja joIe. kevI UMcI, sazakta ane cabarAka dekhAya che !' mArAM patnIe kahyuM. kizorabhAIe kahyuM, yuropamAM ane temAM paNa jarmanImAM strIo ghaNI hiMmatavALI hoya che. aDadhI rAte TeksI calAvatI strIo paNa tamane jarmanImAM jovA maLaze. game tevI sthitimAM teo pahoMcI vaLe evI hoya che.' ame rijensabargamAM dAkhala thayAM. jarmanInuM Azare savA lAkhanI vastI dharAvatuM romanonA vakhatanuM e prAcIna zahera che. DAnyuba nadInA kAMThe AvelA A zaherano baMdara tarIke paNa sAro vikAsa thayo che. ame pahelAM gADImAM ja besI thoDuM pharI lIdhuM ane pachI eka sthaLe gADI pArka karI page cAlIne laTAra mAravA lAgyAM. bAramA saikAnuM eka bhavya, uttuMga aitihAsika khristI devaLa joyuM. madhyayugIna evAM bIja be devaLo bahArathI joyAM. devaLono jhaLahaLato madhyayuga have AthamI gayo hato. ahIMnA loko have rUDhigata dharmakriyAo pratye udAsIna thaI gayA che. bIjA vizvayuddha pachI jarmana prajAe punarutthAnanA kAryamAM jabaro puruSArtha karyo che, paraMtu devaLo sUnAM paDyAM che. have te smAraka jevAM banI gayAM che.

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15 rijensabargamAM rAtavAso - sAMjano samaya hato. oNphiso chUTI gaI hatI. dukAno baMdha thaI gaI hatI. rastA para lokonI avarajavara ghaTatI jatI hatI. koI koI baMdha dukAnonAM zokesamAM goThavelI avanavI cIjavastuonuM ame vinDo zopiMga karatAM karatAM eka sAMkaDI galImAMthI pasAra thayAM. jUnI zailInAM makAno enA prAcIna vAtAvaraNanA nirmANamAM sahAyaka banatAM hatAM. amArA bhAratIya caherA ane pozAkane lIdhe keTalAka rahevAsIo mATe ame tAkI rahevAnuM nimitta banatA hatA. rijensabarga jevA nAnA zaheranA mahollAomAM AMTA mAravAnuM amArA bhAgyamAM lakhAyuM haze evI svapna paNa kalpanA nahotI. bhaviSyamAM jiMdagImAM ahIM bIjI vAra AvavAnuM koI kAraNa paNa nahi hoya e paNa nizcita hatuM. saMdhyA samaye, dIvATANe jyAre sau potapotAnA gharamAM pahoMcI gayAM hoya, vALu karatAM hoya tyAre eka paradezI tarIke ame enI zerIomAM mugdhatAthI avalokana karatA pharatAM hatAM e anubhava viziSTa prakArano hato. eka resTorAMmAM bhojana laI ame amArI hoTela para pAchAM pharyA. rAtanA dasa vAgavA AvyA hatA. hoTelamAM dAkhala thatAM ja ame joyuM ke kAunTara pAsenI, AThadasa mANasa besI zake evI nAnI laoNnjamAM risepzanisTa yuvatI koI be yuvAno sAthe zarAbanI moja mANI rahI hatI. amane joIne ja e bolI, "tamane vAMdho na hoya to tamArA rUmanI cAvIo sAmenA cAvInA borDa parathI laI lezo..... AbhAra tamAro." ame borDa parathI cAvIo laI dAdara caDI amArA potapotAnA rUmamAM dAkhala thayAM. huM beTho ke tarata kizorabhAIe kahyuM, 'ramaNabhAI, AmAM tamane kaMI avalokana karavA jevuM lAgyuM ?' 'nA, mane kazuM lAgyuM nahi. ahIM strIo zarAba pIe che e to jANItuM che.' "huM tamane samajAvuM. eka to risepzanisTanI pharaja che ke eNe UbhA thaIne ApaNane cAvI ApavI joIe. bIjuM, hoTelanA grAhakoe potapotAnA rUmamAM besI dArU pIvo joIe. laoNnjamAM dArU na pivAya. keTalIka seTelomAM laoNnjamAM ja besIne loko dArU pItA hoya che. na pivAya evo koI kAyado nathI, paraMtu evI hoTelomAM acAnaka kyAre dhamAcakaDI thaI jAya te kahevAya nahi. trIjuM, grAhako pItA hoya to paNa risepzanisTathI emAM joDAvAya nahi. atyAre e pharaja para che. ekabIjAne Agraha karavAmAM kyAre nazo caDI jAya te kahevAya nahi.' "to pachI eNe kema Ama karyuM haze ?' kAM to enA potAnA koI mahemAno haze ane kAM to grAhako pAsethI maphatamAM maLatA dArUnI lAlaca e rokI zakI nahi hoya. je hoya te, enuM e jANe. ApaNe to savAre UThI, cA-kophI pIne nIkaLI javuM che, eTale bIjI zI ciMtA ?'

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176 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana | kizorabhAInI vAta samajavA jevI lAgI. vAto karatAM karatAM ame sUI gayAM. AkhA divasanA pravAsathI ame thAkelAM hatAM eTale tarata nidrAdhIna thaI gayAM. aDadhI rAte ekAeka koI mahilAnI cIsa saMbhaLAI. mArI AMkha UghaDI gaI. kizorabhAi paNa jAgI gayA. konI cIsa haze evo haju vicAra karIe tyAM to pharIthI moTI cIsa saMbhaLAI. kaMIka dhamAdhama thatI hoya evo nIcethI avAja paNa Avyo. meM kizorabhAIne kahyuM, "nIce kaMI mArAmArI thatI lAge che !' "e ApaNI risepzanisTanI ja rAmakahAnI haze. ApaNe joyuM ne ke zarAba pIvA e kevI besI gaI hatI ! 'e kaMI muzkelImAM hoya to ApaNe ene bacAvavA nIce jaIe ?' ApaNAthI ema koInI vAtamAM vacce paDAya nahi. AvI hoTelomAM rAtavALI karatI mahilAo potAne mAthe AvanArAM jokhamo vize jANatI ja hoya. cIsAcIsa karI mUkavI e emanuM paheluM zastra che. ApaNI risepzanisTa mArAmArImAM puruSone pahoMcI vaLe evI che. ApaNe vacce paDavA jaIe to rakhe ne ApaNe mAra khAI besIe.' thoDI vAramAM nIce vAtAvaraNa zAnta thayeluM lAgyuM. ame paNa UMghavA lAgyAM. kizorabhAI to ghaDI vAramAM ghasaghasATa UMghI gayA, paNa mane UMdha AvatAM vAra lAgI. aDadhA kalAka pachI pharI risepzanisTanI cIsAcIsano avAja Avyo. dhamAdhama thaI ane pAcho avAja zAnta thaI gayo. kizorabhAI to barAbara UMghatA hatA, paNa mane barAbara Ugha na AvI. savAre cha vAge ame UThI gayAM. mArAM patnI ane zailajA paNa UThI gayAM. rAtanI cIsAcIsanI vAta thaI. cA-kaoNphI pIne, sAmAna sAthe ame nIce UtaryA. hoTelanuM bila cUkavavA ame risepzanisTa pAse gayAM. te to evI ja svastha ane sasmita hatI. amAruM bila banAvI eNe nANAM lIdhAM. mArAthI sahaja puchAI gayuM, 'rAtre koInI cIso saMbhaLAtI hatI te zuM hatuM ?' "ohae to mArI ja cIsa hatI. mApha karajo, tamane UMghamAM khalela paDI haze, nahi ?' 'tamArI cIsa sAMbhaLI amane thayuM ke nIce AvIne tamane madada karIe.' madadanI kaMI jarUra nahotI.' ema kahI eNe potAnA rAtanA anubhavanI vAta karI. 'be ITAliyana vepArIo ApaNI hoTelamAM UtaryA. pachI teo zaheramAM gayA. mAnuM chuM ke dArUnI baoNTala levA mATe ja gayA haze. pachI AvIne lonjamAM besI taDAkA mAravA lAgyA. bIjuM kazuM kAma nahotuM eTale emanA kahevAthI huM paNa emanI sAthe vAtomAM joDAI. emanI ITAlInI vAtomAM mane paNa rasa paDyo. thoDI vAre potAnI

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rijensabargamAM rAtavAso 177 baeNgamAMthI emaNe dArUnI boTala kADhI. mane paNa dArU Apyo. mArAthI nA na pADI zakAI. ema karatAM karatAM samaya kayAM pasAra thaI gayo tenI khabara na paDI. aDadhI rAta thavA AvI haze. huM UbhI thavA gaI tyAM eka jaNe hAtha pakaDI mane baLajabarIthI besADI. temanA IrAdAnI mane gaMdha AvI gaI eTale meM cIsAcIsa karI. teo zAnta thayA, paNa mane UThavA na dIdhI. meM paNa nATaka zarU karyuM. Agraha karI-karIne baMnene bATalImAMno badho dArU pivaDAvI dIdho. baMnene sarakho nazo caDI gayo. tyAra pachI huM UbhI thavA gaI to mane pakaDavA prayatna karyo. meM pharI cIsAcIsa karI ane dhakko mArI baMnene sophA para pADyA. baMnenI AMkha gherAI gaI hatI. bhAna rahyuM nahotuM. baMnene vArApharatI uThADI, Tako ApI bAjunI rUmamAM suvADI dIdhA. je rIte pathArImAM paDyA te ja rIte haju ghore che. koTa ke bUTa utAravAnA hozakoza temanAmAM rahyA nahotA.... rAtanA tamArI UMghamAM khalela pahoMcI haze e mATe dilagIra chuM.' 'tame kharI hiMmata batAvI kahevAya !' 'rAtanI nokarI karavI hoya ane te paNa AvI hoTelomAM, to ATalI hiMmata to rAkhavI ja paDe. AvA anubhavo amAre mATe sAmAnya che. ene pahoMcI vaLavA ame khAsa tAlIma lIdhI hoya che. jarUra paDe to phona karI tarata polIsane paNa bolAvI zakAya che.' je vAta amAre mATe tanAvayukta hatI te vAta risepzanisTa yuvatI mATe sahaja hatI. pharaja pUrI karI ghera jaI e to nirAMte UMghaze, paNa amArA vicAraAMdolano jaladI zamaze nahi ema amane lAgyuM. amArI gADI viyenA tarapha cAlavA lAgI. 12

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vAikiMganA vArasadAro iglenDanI uttare, laMDanathI lagabhaga hajAreka mAIla dUra, uttara eTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAM AvelA TApu AIsalenDanA pATanagara reyAvikamAM ame hoTela leIkura AIrisanamAM UtaryA hatA. eka divasa ame reyAvikathI lagabhaga paMcotera mAIla dUra IzAna dizAmAM Avelo galaphosa nAmano dhodha jovA javAno kAryakrama rAkhyo hato. e mATe ame eka sthAnika kaMpanInI TUramAM joDAyA hatA. samaya anusAra ame e TrAvela kaMpanInI basamAM besavA mATe mukarara sthaLe pahoMcI gayA. basa taiyAra ja UbhI hatI. keTalAka pravAsIo AvI gayA hatA. AvA pravAsamAM basamAM AgaLa beThaka maLI hoya to caDavA-UtaravAmAM keTalIka anukULatA rahe che. paraMtu basamAM dAkhala thatAM ja ame joyuM ke pahelI beThakamAM eka zvetakazI vRddha mahilA besI gayAM hatAM ane koIka pustaka vAMcatAM hatAM. mAjIe vahelA AvIne pahelI beThaka pacAvI pADI che.' amArAmAMthI eke gujarAtImAM kahyuM. ATalI umare paNa pravAsano emane sAro zokha hoya ema lAge che.' bIjAe potAnuM avalokana jaNAvyuM. hasatAM hasatAM ame pAchaLa khAlI beThakomAM besI gayA. basamAM lagabhaga pacIseka pravAsI hatA. samaya thayo eTale DrAIvara basamAM AvI gayo. basa cAlu karI, paraMtu gAIDa tarIke koI dekhAyuM nahi. evAmAM pahelI beThakamAM beThelAM e vRddha mahilA UbhAM thayAM. DrAIvara pAsethI mAIka hAthamAM laI emaNe kahyuM, "sajajano ane sannArIo ! tamAruM svAgata karatAM amane bahu AnaMda thAya che. AjanI sapharamAM huM tamArI gAIDa chuM. ApaNe ahIMthI galaphosano dhodha joI sAMje pAchA pharIzuM. AIsalenDanI bhASAmAM phosa eTale ja dhodha.' emane joIne amane keTalAkane Azcarya thayuM. ame mAMhomAMhe bolyA, "sAruM thayuM ke emane vize ApaNe gujarAtImAM bolyA.' gAiDe kahyuM, "mAruM nAma che jenA groA jekabadotira. huM AIsalaeNnDanI vatanI chuM. yunivarsiTImAM prophesara tarIke kAma karyA pachI have huM nivRtta chuM. mane joIne tamane 178

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vAikiMganA vArasadAro 1e Azcarya thaze, kAraNa ke huM paMcotera varSanI vRddha mahilA chuM. duniyAmAM badhe tamane gAIDa tarIke yuvaka ke yuvatI jovA maLaze. paraMtu rakSAvikanI paristhiti judI che. ahIM sAtaATha mahinA khAsa koI pravAsI hotA nathI, kAraNa ke A himapradezamAM asahya ThaMDImAM pharavA koNa Ave? eTale gAIDa tarIkenuM mAruM kAma traNacAra mahinA ja cAle, paNa pachI rajA. ATalA vakhatamAM ja kamANI karI levAnI, pachI pharavAnI majA. mane sAhitya, ItihAsa vagereno zokha che ane Igliza bhASA AvaDe che. eTale ja kAma karuM chuM. mane e game paNa che. ahIM sAta-ATha mahinA to cAre bAju baraphanA DhagalA hoya. traNeka mahinA to satata aMdhArI rAtanI satu. ghaDiyALamAM joIne divasa-rAta gaNavAnAM, kAma vagara koI bahAra na nIkaLe. ghaNA loko to gharamAM ja besI TI.vI. jue, pustaka vAMce, pAnAM rame, bharata-gUMthaNa ke evI koIka pravRtti kare. mane paMcotera varSa thayAM che, paNa haju huM sazakta chuM. tame jozo ke tamArAmAMnAM keTalAMka karatAM vadhAre jhaDapathI cAlI zakuM chuM. jarUra paDe to huM doDI paNa zakuM chuM. ahIM AIsalenDamAM amArA lokonI nasomAM vAIkiMga prajAnuM lohI vahe che. ame khaDatala chIe. game tevI muzkelImAMthI paNa ame rasto kADhI laIe. ahIMnA bhayaMkara havAmAnathI ame TevAI gayAM chIe. AIsalenDamAM rahevuM ane kudaratathI DaravuM e be sAthe na hoI zake.' gAIDa jonAe tyAra pachI amane AIlasaeNnDanI bhASAnA keTalAka zabdo kahyA : huM eTale ega; tame eTale pu; ame eTale viDa; te eTale hanna; hA eTale lA; iMgliza eTale eku A badhAmAM amArA mATe mahattvano zabda hato AbhArano. AbhAra eTale tAka' athavA 'tA phAyarira'. kenDineviyAnA vAIkiMga lokonI bhASA tathA IglenDa ane AyaralenDanI bhASAnA saMmizraNa jevI, sthAnika asaravALI bhASA te AIsalenDanI bhASA. amArI basa have rekayAvika nagara choDI bahAra AvI gaI hatI. jonAe kahyuM, have baMne bAja ekasarakho khullo pradeza tamane jovA maLaze. te daramiyAna huM tamane amArA AIsalenDa vize thoDIka vAta karuM. yuropanA dezomAM vasavATanI daSTie AIsalenDa chello vaselo deza che, kAraNa ke yuropanI vAyavya dizAmAM ghaNe dUra, uttara dhruvanA vartuLamAM Avelo A deza che. yuropamAM grIka saMskRti aDhI hajAra varSa karatAM vadhu prAcIna che, paraMtu AIsalenDano ItihAsa hajAra-bAraso varSathI vadhu jUno nathI. temAM paNa AraMbhanA saikAno itihAsa to nahi jevo che.' bArInI bahAra khAsa kazuM jovAnuM na hatuM. sAva sapATa dharatI hatI. cAre bAju eka vRkSa ke valI jovA na maLe. jyAM UbhA hoIe tyAMthI kSitijanuM AkhuM vartuLa jevA maLe. AIsalenDanI dharatI eTale TharI gayelA jvALAmukhIonI dharatI. enI kALI, cokaleTI ke gherI pILI mATI eTale mahesUlanI jema kANAMvALAM cosalAM jevI kaThaNa

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180 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana mATI. emAM ghAsa paNa na Uge. sAmAnya rIte kahevAya che ke vagaDAmAM ghAsa to potAnI meLe Uge. enI khetI karavAnI na hoya. paNa ahIM to gheTAM carAvavA mATe ghAsa ugADavA ghaNI mahenata karavI paDe che. jonAe AIsalaeNnDanA ItihAsa vize vadhu mAhitI ApatAM kahyuM, "AIsalenDanI dharatI upara sarva prathama paga mUkanAra te AyaralenDanA pAdarIo hatA. AyaralenDathI unALAmAM vahANamAM nIkaLI dariyAmAM sIdhA uttara dizAmAM teo ahIM AvI pahoMcatA. pachIthI emaNe ahIM vasavATa karyo. I.sa.nA AThamA saikAmAM teo AvelA. paraMtu tyAra pachI norvenA vAIkiMga loko AvyA. eTale teo AIsalenDa choDI pAchA AyaralenDa cAlyA gayA hatA. I.sa. 800 thI 930nA gALAmAM norvenA vahANavaTIo ahIM AvIne vasavA lAgyA. norve, DenmArka ane svIDanano pradeza skenDineviyA tarIke oLakhAya che. A pradezanA loko norDika (Nordic) kahevAtA. vakhata jatAM teo vAikiMga tarIke jANItA thayA. A sAhasika, mahattvAkAMkSI, jabarA lokoe ahIM AIsalenDa para kabajo meLavyo ane ahIMthI AgaLa jaI grInalenDa para paNa potAnuM varcasva jamAvyuM. tyAre AisalaeNnDanI vastI paMdara-vIsa hajAranI paNa nahi hoya. paraMtu e yuga bhAre parAkramano hato. enI ghaNI aitihAsika vigato maLe che. e badhAM lakhANo SAGA tarIke oLakhAya che. SAGA eTale AIsalaeNnDano bhavya bhUtakALa. eka jamAno evo hato ke jyAre ema manAtuM ke vAIkiMga loko eTale dariyAI cAMciyA, luccA, jabarA ane ghAtakI. paNa have itihAsakAro kahe che ke vAIkiMga loko eTale Raiders nahi, teo Traders - vepArI paNa hatA. teo jAnanA jokhame paNa AgaLa vadhavAnI mahattvAkAMkSAvALA hatA. teoe potAnI naukAvidyA vikasAvI hatI. temanI naukAo eTale kalAno paNa uttama namUno. ajANyA malakamAM javA emanI AMkho talasatI, norve ane AisalaeNnDanI vaccenA samudra para temanuM ja varcasva raheluM.' AIsalaeNnDanA itihAsanI rasika vAto karatAM karatAM jenAe kahyuM, "amAro deza eTale viziSTatAo ane vicitratAono deza. dAkhalA tarIke mAruM AkhuM nAma che jonA groA jekabadotira. tame mane kahezo ke AmAM groA te koNa ?' groA tamArA patinuM nAma athavA pitAnuM nAma lAge che. amArAmAMthI koIka bolyuM. "nahi. groA mArI mAtAnuM nAma che. ahIM AIsalenDamAM Ama to phakta nAma ane oLakha lakhavAno rivAja che, paraMtu vacaluM nAma lakhavAnI jarUra paDe to strInA nAma pachI enI mAtAnuM nAma lakhavAno rivAja che, pitA ke patinuM nAma nahi. te pachI aTaka lakhAya che. keTalAkanI aTakamAM pitAnA nAma pachI dIkaro hoya to Son joDAya che ane dIkarI hoya to Dottir joDAya che. tame joI zakazo ke ame vAikiMganA vArasadAro chIe. amArAmAM strIonuM mahatva paNa keTaluM badhuM che !'

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vAIkiMganA vArasadAro 181 have tamane bIjI eka vAIkiMga viziSTatA batAvuM,' jonAe kahyuM, "tamArI DAbI bAju bArImAMthI bahAra juo. have DuMgarAo cAlu thayA che. tamane kaMI dekhAya che ?' DuMgaronI taLeTIthI saheja UMce beThA ghATanuM lAkaDAnuM eka ghara hatuM. huM bolyo, oho ! TheTha ahIM sudhI mANaso vasyA che !' nA, ahIM sudhI mANaso vasyA nathI. A to phakta eka ja ghara che. ene ghara kahevA karatAM lAkaDAnI kebina kahevI e vadhu yogya che.' jonAnI sUcanAthI DrAIvare basa UbhI rAkhI. DuMgaranI dhAra upara ghaNA moTA moTA patharAonI vacce e kebina hatI. tyAM javAnI koI keDI paNa nahotI. emAM koI rahe che ?' hA. eka yuvAna bhAI emAM rahe che." ATale badhe dUra ahIM ekalA rahevAnuM kAraNa ?' 'basa, eka tamannA. tame juo cho ke rekSAvikathI ATale badhe dUra A gharane vIjaLInuM ke pANInuM koI joDANa nathI. tyAM je bhAI rahe che te phakta unALAmAM cAreka mahinA AvIne rahe che. unALAmAM ahIM rAtanA bAra-eka vAge sUryAsta thAya ane aDhI-traNa vAgatAM to sUryodaya thaI jAya. be-traNa kalAkanI rAtamAM ahIM AIsalenDamAM aMdhAruM na hoya. joI zakAya evo, cAMdanI rAta karatAM paNa vadhAre ujAsa hoya. saMdhyA ke paroDha jevo ujAsa lAge. eTale lAITanI jarUra na paDe. pIvAnuM pANI ane khAdhAkhorAkI vagere badhuM pote bharI lIdhuM hoya. "teo unALAmAM ahIM DuMgaromAM rahevA Ave che eTale prakRtinA premI haze !' hA, e to kharuM, paNa bIjuM mahattvanuM kAraNa che.' ekalA rahe che ke patnI-bALako sAthe rahe che ?' ekalA ja. paraNyA nathI. hAthe rasoI karIne khAI le che. cAra mahinA gharanI bahAra nIkaLatA nathI. have huM tamane savAla pUchuM chuM. tame kaMI anumAna karI zako cho ke teo zA mATe ahIM AvIne rahe che ?' 'rakAvikamAM gamatuM nahi hoya mATe.' koIke kahyuM. "bhAratamAM hoya to ame eka anumAna karI zakIe ke teo koI AdhyAtmika sAdhanA mATe, mauna, dhyAna, japa vagere mATe rahetA haze. bhAratamAM aneka AvA asaMga tapasvIo, sAdhako, mahAtmAo ekalA rahetA hoya che.' ame kahyuM. 'nA, evI koI sAdhanA teo karatA nathI. teo Akho divasa chApAM, sAmayiko, pustako vAMce che. jenAe kahyuM. "temane Dara nahi lAgato hoya ?' koIke prazna karyo.

Page #199
pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana 'ahIM jaMgala jevuM ja nathI. eTale jaMgalI zikArI pazuono Dara kayAMthI hoya ?' bIjA koIke kahyuM. 'ahIM cora-DAkuno bhaya paNa kyAMthI hoya ? pAse kaMI hoya to ciMtA ne ?' jenAe kahyuM, 'Darano prazna ja nathI. Dara to A bhAIne game evo che. vastutaH Dara upara vijaya meLavavA to teo ahIM rahevA AvyA che !' 'e kevI rIte ?' ra 'tamane samajAvuM. tame juo cho ne ke emanA gharanI AsapAsa keTalI badhI zilAo paDI che !' 'koI koI zilAo to emanI dIvAlane aDIne paDI che.' amArAmAMthI koIke kahyuM. 'dara varSe unALAmAM A DuMgaro parathI dhaDadhaDadhaDa karatI moTI zilAo tUTI paDe che. zarUAtamAM to barapha ogaLe eTale himazilAo tUTI paDe. pachI paththaranI bhekhaDo tUTe. paDatI gabaDatI bhekhaDo vegathI nIce dhasI Ave. A bhAIne evo zokha thayo ke jokhamo vacce jIvavuM, maravAno Dara na rAkhavo. vAikiMganuM e lohI che. eTalA mATe to emaNe ghara paNa lAkaDAMnAM majabUta pATiyAMnuM nahi, paNa pAtaLAM pATiyAMnuM banAvyuM che. cAra varSathI unALAmAM teo ahIM rahevA AvI jAya che. eTalI khAdhA-khorAkI vasAvI le che ke jethI gharanI bahAra javuM na paDe. prasannacitte teo rahe che. dara varSe ahIM ghaNI zilAo paDe che, paNa haju sudhI temane kazuM thayuM nathI.' 'che ne mANaso duniyAmAM ! jIvanamAM nirbhayatA keLavavA mATe kevo nusakho zodhI kADhyo ! dhanya che AvA motane muThThImAM laIne (khaDiyAmAM khApaNa laine) nIkaLanArA mANasone !' mArAthI bolAI gayuM. amArI basa galaphosanA raste AgaLa cAlI.

Page #200
suvAmAM navuM varSa phijI eTale pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM "choTA bhArata'. aneka nAnA nAnA TApuonuM baneluM rASTra. aMgrejonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna uttara bhArata, bihAra, gujarAta ane dakSiNa bhAratamAMthI aneka lokone majUrI karavA mATe bhArata bahAra laI javAmAM AvyA, temAM phijImAM paNa sArI saMkhyAmAM loko gayA. zeraDInAM khetaromAM kAma karavA mATe, anya prakAranI khetI mATe, ke bIjI majUrI ke kArakunI karavA mATe eka saikA pahelAM je loko tyAM gayA temanA vArasonI e ja mAtRbhUmi banI gaI. phijImAM sthAnika phijiyana loko karatAM bhAratIya loko bahumatImAM che. hiMdu, musalamAna, khristI vagere loko tyAM che. phijiyana ane bhAratIya loko uparAMta keTalAka gorA loko paNa tyAM vaselA che ane keTalAka cInI loko paNa tyAM che. TApuo, samudrakinAro, DuMgaro ane hariyALIthI sabhara phijInI naisargika ramaNIyatA kaMIka judA ja prakAranI che. mAre yogAnuyoga evo thayo hato ke 1977mAM phijInA pravAse huM gayo tyAre Disembara mahinAnA divaso hatA. phijImAM nAMdI, laTakA, bA, siMgATokA vagere sthaLe pharIne phijanA pATanagara suvA huM pahoMcyo hato. tyAMnA jhaverAtanA vepArI zrI kAnajIbhAI jogiyAne tyAM huM UtayoM hato. emanuM Atithya mAre mATe yAdagAra banI gayuM hatuM. roja navA navA sthaLe mane pharavA laI javAno emano utsAha prazaMsanIya hato. ema karatAM tArIkha 31mI Disembarano divasa AvI pahoMcyo. pahelI jAnyuArIe huM phijIthI nyUjhIlenDa javAno hato. tA. 31mI DisembaranI savArano amAro kAryakrama nirdhArita karyo hato te pramANe goThavAyo hato. sAMje jamIne bhAgavatakathAmAM javAnuM nakkI karyuM hatuM. suvA pAse revA nAmanI nadI che. e nadInA kinAre AvelA eka sthaLe A kathAno kAryakrama hato. phijImAM judA judA maThanA keTalAka saMnyAsIoe bhAratathI AvIne kAyamano vasavATa karyo che. A bhAgavatakathA bhAratathI padhArelA koIka svAmIjI karatA hatA. zaNagArelI vyAsapITha para besI, gaLAmAM moTA galagoTAnI mALA dhAraNa karI, bhagavA vastradhArI svAmI rAmanarezajI kRSNa ane sudAmAno prasaMga varNavatA hatA. zrotAonI kakSAne dhyAnamAM rAkhIne svAmIjIe kathAvartana mATe haLavI manoraMjaka zailI apanAvI hatI. 189

Page #201
184 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana kathA sAMbhaLI, prasAda laI ame ghare AvyA tyAre rAtanA sADA dasa vAgI gayA hatA. thoDI vAra ame beThA tyAM kAnajIbhAIe mArI AgaLa prastAva mUkyo : "tame amArA ghare mahemAna tarIke AvyA cho. Aje phijImAM tamAro chello divasa che. vaLI varSano paNa Aje Akhara divasa che. ahIM badhI hoTelamAM navA varSanI pArTI thatI hoya che. tame thAkI gayA na ho to ApaNe koIka hoTelamAM jaIe. navA varSanuM Agamana gharanA khUNAmAM beThAM beThAM vadhAvIe enA karatAM bahAra samUhamAM ullAsathI vadhAvIe to vadhAre AnaMda Avaze.' ' kahyuM, "mane Avo khAsa koI zokha nathI, tema kyAMya na javuM evuM paNa nathI. mane pAzcAtya DhabanuM nRtya AvaDatuM nathI ane zarAba huM pIto nathI. chatAM tame kahezo to jarUra sAthe AvIza.' nRtya to mane paNa AvaDatuM nathI ane zarAba to huM paNa pIto nathI. ApaNe to mahephilamAM jaIne besIzuM. tame AvyA cho eTale mane vizeSa hoza thAya che ke koI sArI hoTelamAM badhAnI vacce AnaMda mANIe ane navA varSane harSollAsathI vadhAvIe." mArI saMmati maLatAM emaNe Tebala rijharva karAvavA mATe hoTelamAM phona joDavA cAlu karyA. paNa dareka hoTelamAMthI eka ja javAba Avyo, "mApha karaje, amArI hoTelamAM have jagyA nathI.' hoTalomAMthI nA AvatI gaI eTale meM to thoDI rAhata anubhavI. paNa kAnajIbhAIe kahyuM, 'hoTelavALA bhale nA kahe, ApaNe jaIne UbhA rahIe. TrAvela laoNjamAM to menejara sAthe mAre gADha paricaya che. be khurazI vadhArAnI mukAvIne paNa ApaNane besADaze. kadAca chellI ghaDIe koInuM kensalezana AvyuM hoya to paNa ApaNane jagyA maLI jaze.' ame baMne kAramAM nIkaLyA. hoTela TrAvela laoNja' para pahoMcyA. paNa tyAM to hoTelano daravAjo ja baMdha karI devAmAM Avyo hato ane jagyA nathI'nuM pATiyuM bahAra laTakAvyuM hatuM. menejarane maLavA mATe koziza karavI hatI, paNa aMdara koI javA de to ne ? ame tyAMthI bIjI hoTela para UpaDyA. tyAM paNa e ja sthiti hatI. amArI jema bIjA paNa ghaNA loko daravAjA bahAra AMTA mAratA hatA. hoTela sadharna kraoNsa, hoTela grAnDa pesiphika, hoTela kresTa vagere hoTelo pAse jaI AvyA, paNa badhe ja nirAzA sAMpaDI. kAra hatI eTale jhaDapathI badhe pharI vaLyA, bIjuM eka cakkara paNa lagAvyuM, paNa pariNAma enuM e ja rahyuM. keTalIka vAra moTI hoTelomAM jagyA na maLe, paNa nAnI hoTelamAM jagyA maLI jAya. evI hoTelanI tapAsa mATe ame AkhuM suvA khuMdI vaLyA (kAramAM), paNa koI amane notaravA taiyAra nahotuM.

Page #202
185 suvAmAM navuM varSa * ghaDiyALano kAMTo AgaLa vadhato jato hato. amArI gADI suvAnI zerIomAM AMTA mAratI hatI. evAmAM eka sthaLe eka makAnanI agAzImAMthI pAzcAtya saMgItanA dhamadhamATIbharyA sUro saMbhaLAvA lAgyA. agAzI lAITa ane toraNothI zaNagArelI hatI. gADI pArka karI tapAsa karavA ame tyAM gayA. makAnamAM nIce ja eka Tebala pAse phensI kapaDAMmAM beThelA be phijiyana yuvAnoe amane rokyA. potAnI kalaba taraphathI A kAryakrama che ema amane jaNAvyuM. amAre be jaNa mATe TebalanI vyavasthA thaI jaze ema kahyuM eTale ame nirAMtano dama kheMcyo. chevaTe eka jagyAe to AvakAra maLyo ethI ame AnaMdita thaI gayA. kAryakramamAM dAkhala thavA mATe pratyekanI dasa DaoNlaranI phI hatI. AvI jagyA mATe dasa DaoNlara ghaNA kahevAya. paNa atyAre eno vicAra karavAno nahoto. TikiTa laI ame agAzImAM pahoMcyA. tyAM keTalAMka phijiyana yuvaka-yuvatI Disko nRtya karI rahyAM hatAM. vAtAvaraNa paNa bhaMgAra jevuM hatuM. yuvaka-yuvatIo te kalabanAM potAnAM ja haze ema lAgyuM. dasa DaoNlara kharcI zake evA hozakoza emanA caherA para nahotA. AmAM ApaNuM kAma nahi', meM kahyuM. mane paNa lAge che ke A sthaLa ane vAtAvaraNa ApaNA staranuM nathI.' kAnajIbhAIe kahyuM. ame tarata nIce UtaryA. Ayojaka yuvAnone kAnajIbhAIe kahyuM, "amane A kAryakrama pasaMda nathI. eTale ame emAM joDAtA nathI. amArI TikiTanA paisA pAchA Apo.' - bemAMthI eka yuvAne kaDaka avAje kahyuM, "ame TikiTanA paisA pAchA nathI ApatA. tamane kAryakrama game to tame beso. na game to jaI zako cho. jevI tamArI marajI." ame keTalIka rakajhaka karI, paNa paisA pAchA na maLyA te na maLyA. vIsa DaoNlara khoTA veDaphAI gayA. ame vadhu nirAza thaI AgaLa vadhyA. have koI AzA rahI na hatI. lagabhaga poNA bAra thavA AvyA. paMdara miniTa mATe paNa koI sArI hoTelamAM jagyA maLe to kAnajIbhAI paisA kharcavA taiyAra hatA, paNa tevI koI zakyatA jaNAtI nahotI. thoDI vAra pachI kAnajIbhAIe kahyuM, "hoTelo to badhI phula' che, paNa mane have evuM eka sthaLa yAda Ave che ke jyAM navA varSanI ujavaNI mATe jagyA meLavavAno prazna hoto nathI." 'evI te kaI jagyA che ?" kahuM ahIM eka khristI devaLa che. tyAM 31mI Disembare rAtanA navA varSa mATe prArthanA ane pravacano (Midnight Mass) thAya che. tamane vAMdho na hoya to ApaNe - tyAM jaIe." '

Page #203
186 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana "mane kazo ja vAMdho nathI. meM to muMbaImAM eka khristI kaoNlejamAM vIsa varSa prAdhyApaka tarIke kAma karyuM che. teonA keTalAka "Mass mAM hAjarI paNa ApI che. mane tamAruM sUcana gamyuM. 31mI Disembare paisA kharcI nAcagAna jevAM enA karatAM vagara kharce dharmanA be zabdo sAMbhaLavA e vadhu yogya che.' ame gADI lIdhI khristI devaLa tarapha. devaLa AvyuM paNa tyAM bahAra koI rozanI nahotI. gADI pArka karI ame kaMpAunDamAM dAkhala thayA, paNa tyAM to aMdhAruM hatuM. kazI avarajavara dekhAI nahi. devaLanI aMdara badhA besI gayA haze ane dhamopadeza sAMbhaLatA haze ema lAgyuM. ame devaLanA daravAje pahoMcyA. daravAjo baMdha hato. aMdarathI baMdha che ke bahArathI baMdha che ? aMdarathI koI avAja Avato nahoto. barAbara dhyAnathI joyuM to daravAjo bahArathI ja baMdha hato. amane navAI lAgI. khristI devaLa 31mI Disembare madharAte baMdha hoya evuM dhAryuM nahotuM. ame thoDI vAra tyAM UbhA rahyA. rakhe ne koI phAdhara Ave, paNa koI phAdhara AvyA nahi. evAmAM eka cokIdAra pharato pharato tyAM Avyo. kAnajIbhAIe pUchayuM, "devaLa kema baMdha che ? navuM varSa UjavavA koI phAdhara AvavAnA nathI ?' "nA, bemAMthI koI phAdhara AvavAnA nathI. have pahelAMnI jema loko carcamAM bahu AvatA nathI. eTale baMne phAdhara eka pArTImAM javAnuM nimaMtraNa maLyuM te svIkArIne tyAM gayA che.' amAruM chelluM zaraNa paNa azaraNa nIvaDyuM. duniyA kevI badalAI rahI che te najare jovA maLyuM. bahAra nIkaLI ame gADImAM beThA. ghaDiyALamAM joyuM to bAra vAgavAmAM have be miniTanI ja vAra hatI. have kyAMya javAnuM na rahyuM eTale gADInI gatimAM paNa maMdatA AvI gaI. be miniTa pUrI thaI gaI. bAra vAgI gayA ane phaTAkaDA phUTavAnA avAjo AvavA lAgyA. kyAMka UMce UDatA rozanIvALA phaTAkaDA paNa phUTavA lAgyA. gADI UbhI rAkhI ame nIce UtaryA. nUtana varSa nimitte ame baMnee ekabIjAne mubArakabAdI ApI. amAruM navuM varSa suvAnA rastA vacce, khullA AkAza nIce nirmAyuM haze evuM dhAryuM nahotuM. - ghara tarapha pAchA pharatAM rastAmAM TrAvela laoNja' AvI. enA daravAjA have khullA hatA. gADI UbhI rAkhIne kAnajIbhAIe kahyuM, "cAlo aMdara jaIe. have koI aTakAvaze nahi. maeNnejara hoya to ene maLIzuM." ame hoTelamAM dAkhala thayA. keTalAka loko bahAra AvI rahyA hatA. ghaNAkharA beThA hatA. saMgIta cAlatuM hatuM. keTalAka nRtya karI rahyA hatA. sadbhAgya menejara maLI gayA.

Page #204
suvAmAM navuM varSa 187 navA varSanI mubArakabAdI ApI. eka Tabala pAse emaNe jagyA karI ApI. potAnA taraphathI emaNe amAre mATe cA, kaoNphI, AIsakrIma, zarabata vagere je joIe te maMgAvavA kahyuM. ame kaoNphI pIdhI. keTalAka mitro kAnajIbhAIne maLyA. temanI sAthe hAtha milAvyA ane nUtana varSanI zubhecchAo darzAvI. eka kalAkanA zrama pachIno aDadho kalAka amAro bahu AnaMdamAM vItyo. ghare AvI bIjA divase nyUjhIlenDa javAnI taiyArI karI huM sUI gayo. suvAnAM bIjAM keTalAMka saMsmaraNo bhulAI jaze, paNa navuM varSa UjavavA mATe eka kalAka ame cAre bAju je phAMphAM mAryA hatAM te jaladI bhulAze nahi.

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29 kvAI nadInA kinAre varSa 1977nuM hatuM. ame keTalAka mitro thAilaeNnDanA pravAse gayA hatA. tyAre e dezano eTalo vikAsa thayo nahoto. thAilaeNnDanuM mULa prAcIna nAma te siyAma. eka jamAnAmAM bhAratIya dharma ane saMskRtino pracAra ane prabhAva TheTha siyAmathI paNa AgaLa pahoMcyo hato. siyAmanAM bauddha maMdiro jotAM A vAtanI khAtarI thayA vagara rahe nahi. thAIlaeNnDanA pATanagara beMgakokamAM ame hoTela inTara-konTinenTalamAM UtaryA hatA. ame zaheranAM jovAlAyaka sthaLo uparAMta prAcIna nagarI ayuthyA (ayodhyA), pattayA, taratI bajAra vagere jude jude sthaLe pharI lIdhuM hatuM. have kayAM pharavA javuM eno vicAra karatA hatA tyAM amArA TaeNkasI DrAivare prastAva mUkyo ke 'sara, kvAI nadIno pula jovo che ?' amAro TaeNkasI DrAivara ja amAro bhomiyo hato. te moTI umarano, bhalo ane ghaNI vAtono jANakAra hato. te iMgliza bolato hato, paNa bhAMgyuMtUTyuM. enA uccAro lAkSaNika thAI uccAro jevA hatA. enI sAthe iMglizamAM thatI vAtacItamAM vyAkaraNanI bhUlo tarapha najara na karIe to enA vaktavyanuM hArda samajAya evuM hatuM. hAthamoDhAnA izArA paNa emAM madadarUpa thatA. kvAI nadInuM nAma sAMbhaLatAM ja meM pUchyuM, 'kaI kavAI nadI ? peluM bahu sarasa calacitra AvyuM hatuM - The Bridge on the River Kwai e kyAI nadI ?' - 'hA, e ja kvAI nadI. enuM AkhuM nAma 'kavAI yAI' che. e calacitre amArI kvAI nadI ane enA para AvelA relave pulane khyAtanAma karI dIdhAM che. nahi to A nAnI kavAI nI duniyAnA kayA khUNAmAM AvI che te koNa jANatuM hoya ?' 'oha, to to e sthaLa jarUra jovuM che. e prakhyAta calacitra ame joyuM hatuM ane amane te bahu ja gamyuM hatuM.' DrAivaranI sAthe badhuM TharAvI ame bIje divase savAre kvAI nadInA kinAre javA nIkaLyA. I.sa. 1955thI 1960nA gALAmAM The Bridge on the River Kwai nAmanuM calacitra muMbaimAM AvyuM hatuM. enI paTakathA, enAM pAtro, e pAtrono prabhAvazALI abhinaya, prakRtinAM manohara dazyo, romAMca khaDA kare evI taMgadilIbharI ghaTanAo, sarasa phoTogrAphI e badhAMne lIdhe paMkAyeluM ane pAritoSiko meLavanAruM e calacitra bahu cAlyuM 188 ==

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kavAI nadInA kinAre 189 hatuM. emAM bIjA vizvayuddhanI eka ghaTanA sarasa rIte batAvAI hatI. Ama paNa yuddhakSya phathI ramyA ema kahevAya che, paraMtu bIjA vizvayuddhamAM jarmanI ane jApAnano parAjaya thayA pachI je aneka calacitro briTana, phrAnsa, amerikA vagere vijetA dezoe banAvyAM emAM parAjita dezone atyaMta kharAba cItaravAno IrAdApUrvakano pracArAtmaka hetu joI zakAto hato, paraMtu DeviDa liyananA mArgadarzana heThaLa taiyAra thayelA ane eka ginanesanI mukhya bhUmikAvALA A calacitramAM jApAnane badanAma karavAno jarA paNa Azaya jaNAto nahoto. emAM taTasthatApUrvaka, klAnI daSTie vAstaviktAnuM nirUpaNa karavAno Azaya hato. bIjuM vizvayuddha phATI nIkaLyuM yuropamAM, paraMtu enA aMtanI zarUAta eTama bombane lIdhe eziyAmAM thaI. jarmanIe briTananI sAme yuddha jAhera karyuM. e yuddha yuropamAM ane AphrikAmAM prasaryuM. raziyA paNa emAM saMDovAyuM. A takano lAbha laI eziyAmAM jApAna jevA nAnA deze briTana sAme yuddha jAhera karyuM. e yuddha oNsTreliyAnA kinArA sudhI ane amerikAnA parla hArbara sudhI pahoMcyuM. pRthvInA pAMca khaMDa yuddhagrasta banI gayA. jApAne siMgApora, malAyA, thAIlenDa ane bama sudhInA dezo para AkramaNa karI e kabaje karI lIdhA. jApAnanAM yuddhajahAjo baMgALanA upasAgaramAM pahoMcI gayAM. kalakattA upara bhaya toLAvA lAgyo hato. pUrvataiyArIrUpe muMbaImAM rAtane vakhate aMdhArapaTa (Black out) chavAI gayo hato. yuddhamAM nItiniyamo khAsa hoya nahi. yuddha eTale narI nirdayatA. duzmana pratye dayA batAve e yuddhamAM vijetA na thaI zake. jarmanI ane jApAne yuddhamAM ghaNA bhayaMkara atyAcAro karyA hatA. jApAne karelA atyAcAromAMno eka te potAnI AgekUca karavA mATe yuddhakedIo ane veTha-majUro pAse siyAmathI barmA-myAnamAra (brahmadeza) sudhInI baMdhAvelI relavelAInano hato, jemAM ochuM khAvAnuM tathA sakhata majUrI ane mArane kAraNe relave pUrI baMdhAtA sudhImAM be lAkhathI vadhu mANaso mRtyu pAmyA hatA. A relave lAInamAM mahattvanuM eka agharuM kArya te vacce AvatI kavAI nadI upara pula bAMdhavAnuM hatuM. beMgakoka choDI amArI TeksI thAIlenDanI vAyavya dizAmAM kAMcanAbura (kAMcanapura) tarapha javA UpaDI. jema jema ame AgaLa vadhatA gayA tema tema DAMgaranAM khetaro ochAM thatAM gayAM ane jaMgalanI gIca hariyALI jhADI vadhatI gaI. vacce nAnAM nAnAM chUTAMchavAyAM gAmaDAM AvatAM gayAM. bhAratamAM govA ke keraLanA grAmavistAromAMthI pasAra thatAM jevAM dazyo jovA maLe tevAM dazyo ahIM jovA maLyAM. kayAMka hAthIo paNa dekhAyA. brahmadezanI sarahada tarapha jatA A rastA para AvelAM gAmaDAMonA lokone joIe to teo dekhAve barmI jevA ja lAge. A bAju uttare "mona' nAmanI jAtinA loko vase che. teonI bhASA bama ane siyAmInI mizra jevI lAge. !

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10 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana kavAI nadI sudhIno rasto cAreka kalAkano hato. ame bIjA vizvayuddhanA divasomAM chApAMomAM AvatA ahevAlone ane The Bridge on the RiverKwai calacitranAM dazyone smRtipaTa para tAjAM karavA lAgyA. yAda rahI jAya evuM sarasa e calacitra hatuM. emAM batAvyA pramANe jApAne siyAmamAM hajAro sainikone keda karyA che. Thera Thera yuddhakedIonI chAvaNIo sthapAI gaI che. yuddhakedIone khavaDAvavAnI javAbadArI vijayI senAdhipatinI hoya che. bIjI bAju te sainiko pAse sakhata majUrI paNa karAvI zake che. siyAma para kabajo jamAvyA pachI jApAna brahmadeza tarapha AgekUca karavA Icche che, paraMtu e jaMgalano vistAra che. emAM kUca karIne javAnuM sainiko mATe saraLa nathI. je relavelAIna nakhAya to hajAro sainiko pAMca-cha kalAkamAM tyAM pahoMcI jaI zake. A pradezanI jemane javAbadArI soMpavAmAM AvI che te jApAnI senAdhipati karnala sAItone uparI sattAvALAo taraphathI hukama thAya che ke bama tarapha AgekUca karavA mATe yuddhakedIone majUro tarIke tarata kAme lagADI do ane beMgakokathI raMgUna sudhInI Azare pAMcaso kilomITaranI relavelAIna nirdhArita samayamAM pUrI karI do.' lazkarI hukama eTale lazkarI hukama. emAM eka divasanuM moDuM paNa na cAle. emAM koI bahAnAM kADhI na zakAya. karnala sAItone hukama maLatAM ja yuddhakedIone ane veTha majUrone kAme lagADI dIdhA. relavelAIna taiyAra karavAnuM kAma "yuddhanA dhoraNe cAlavA lAgyuM. emAM kaparuM kArya hatuM vacce AvatI kavAI nadI upara pula bAMdhavAnuM. yuddhakedIomAM mukhyatve siyAmI hatA, taduparAMta aMgrejo potAnI sAthe laI gayelA barma ane bhAratIya sainiko paNa hatA. keTalAka aMgreja yuddhakedIo paNa hatA. A badhA yuddhakedIonA adhipati hatA eka briTiza karnala nikolasana. badhA yuddhakedIo kAme lAgI gayA, paraMtu karnala nikolasane karnala sAItane kahyuM, "huM karnala chuM. senAdhipati chuM. inivAkarAra pramANe huM dekharekha rAkhIza, paNa zArIrika majUrI nahi karuM." sAItoe kahyuM, 'jInivAkarAra rahyA tamAre ghare. ahIM to tame mArA yuddhakedI cho ane mArA hukama pramANe kAma karavuM paDaze. tamAre zArIrika majUrI nathI karavI ? to UbhA raho tyAM taDakAmAM patarAnI kebinamAM Akho divasa.' ThaMDA pradezamAMthI AvatA gorI cAmaDIvALA briTiza karnalane mATe majUrI karatAM paNa taDakAmAM UbhA rahevAnI sajA vadhu bhAre hatI. teo paraseve rebajheba thavA lAgyA. vaLI temane vicAra Avyo ke pote je vidroha karaze to potAnA ghaNA sainiko vagara vAMke vahelA motane bheTaze. sattA AgaLa zANapaNa bahu cAle nahi. teo DhIlA paDyA. bIjI bAju sAItAna vicAra Avyo ke yuddhakedIono je sahakAra nahi maLe to pote nirdhArita samayamAM relavelAIna ane vAIno pula bAMdhI nahi zake. jo ema thaze to potAne uparI

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kavAI nadInA kinAre 11 adhipati AgaLa moDhuM batAvavA jevuM nahi rahe. jApAnI rivAja pramANe potAne hArAkIrI' (ApaghAta) karavAno vakhata Avaze. eTale teo paNa thoDA DhIlA paDyA. Ama chevaTe samAdhAna thayuM ane pula bAMdhavAnuM kAma bamaNA jorathI cAlavA lAgyuM. ethI nirdhArita samaye pula baMdhAI gayo ane enA parathI Trena pasAra thaI. briTiza karnalano chUTo paDelo eka sAthIdAra, nadInA pANImAM jhaMpalAvI, ghasaDAIne barmA bAjunA koIka gAme pahoMcI gayo hato. tyAM teNe gerIlA yuddha karIne baMdhAtA pulane visphoTaka padArtha vaDe uDAvI devAnuM kAvataruM goThavyuM, paraMtu teNe AvIne jyAre joyuM ke briTiza karnale jApAnI karnalane sahakAra Apyo che tyAre teNe kAvataruM karavAnuM mAMDI vALyuM. Ama e calacitranI AchIpAtaLI kathArekhAne yAda karatA ame AgaLa vadhatA hatA. jema jema AgaLa jatA gayA tema tema bIjAM vRkSo uparAMta sIsama ane vAsanAM vRkSo vadhu jovA maLatAM gayAM. sAMkaDA raste (have rastA moTA thayA che) vaLAMko letI amArI gADI cAlatI hatI. kyAMka rastAnI najIka ja lokonAM jhUpaDAM dekhAtAM hatAM. A jhUMpaDAMo IMTamATInAM nahi paNa vAMsamATInAM banAvelAM hatAM. A bAju vAMsa jADA ane khAssA UMcA thAya che. ene kApI, sUkavI, vAMsaDA banAvI eno vividha prakArano upayoga ahIMnA loko kare che. loko vAMsanA tarApA paNa banAve che. tarApA hoDInI jema pANImAM cAle che. hoDI karatAM tarApo banAvavAnuM saheluM ane sastuM che. loko eka gAmathI bIjA gAme tarApA para besIne paNa jAya che. keTalAka loko nadImAM mAchalInA zikAra mATe paNa eno upayoga kare che. keTalAka zokhIno tarApA para ghara jevuM banAvI nadInA pANI para rahe che. A tarApAgRhonI jIvanazailI judA ja prakAranI che. cAreka kalAkano rasto kApyA pachI kavAI nadInAM amane darzana thayAM. aho, A nAnakaDI nadInuM paNa kevuM sadabhAgya ke te vizvavikhyAta banI gaI. nadI zAMtapaNe vahetI hatI. enuM pANI nirmaLa nahi paNa mATIvALuM DahoLuM hatuM. thoDI miniTomAM ame kvAI nadI para bAMdhavAmAM AvelA relavenA pula pAse AvI pahoMcyA. je sthaLa calacitramAM joyuM hatuM te sAkSAt jovA maLatAM ame romAMca anubhavyo. TekasImAMthI UtarI ame pUla pAse gayA. lagabhaga sAta hajAra yuddhakedIono bhoga lenAra A lohiyALa pula hato. sthAnika loko A relavene motanI relave' tarIke oLakhe che. bama bAjunI relavelAIna aMgrejoe yuddhamAM vijaya meLavyA pachI ukheDI nAkhI hatI. siyAmamAM e baMdha paDI rahI che. koI tyakatA nArInA haNAyelA teja jevI e lAgatI hatI. eka bAju enjina ane traNa DabbA paDyAM hatAM. yuddhanA smAraka tarIke ene sAcavavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. pAse eka gAmaThI nAnI resTorAM hatI. e sivAya ahIM koI vastI nahotI. A nIrava verAna pradezamAM, nIce dharatI ane upara AkAzanI vacce UbhelA ame amArA avAjathI jANe vAtAvaraNamAM hastakSepa karatA hoIe ema lAgatuM hatuM. prAkRtika vAtAvaraNamAM mAnavasarjita

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19ra pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana AkRti te kSitija sudhI laMbAyelA dekhAtA relavenA pATA hatA. thoDA aMtara pachI brahmadezanI sarahada zarU thatI hatI. jUnA vakhatamAM brahmadezanI gaNanA hiMdustAnanA eka bhAga tarIke ja thatI hatI. aMgrejoe brahmadeza ane zrIlaMkAnAM judAM rASTranI racanA karI hatI. vizvayuddha vakhate aMgrejoe hajAro bhAratIya sainikone brahmadezanA rakSaNa mATe mokalyA hatA. ame pula upara, relavenA pATA upara sAcavIne cAlatAM cAlatAM nadInA sAmA kinArA sudhI jaI AvyA. pAchA pharatAM pula para adhavacce eka jagyAe beThA. ahIM kyAM koI Trena AvavAnI ciMtA hatI ? zAMtithI beThAM beThAM ame AsapAsanAM dazyo nihALyA karyA. zahIda thayelA yuddhakedIone manamAM bhAvapUrvaka zraddhAMjali arpI. thoDI vAra pachI meM DrAIvara-gAIDane kahyuM, "A pula Ama to keTalo nAno ane nIco dekhAya che ! calacitramAM to pula keTalo moTo ane UMco dekhAya che !' eka mitre kahyuM, "e phoTogrAphInI karAmata che. kemerAnI zakti gajabanI hoya che.' bIjA mitre kahyuM, 'e karAmata nahi, paNa kalA kahevAya. citrakAra jema potAne batAvavuM hoya e ja daSTikoNathI citra dore, tema calacitrakAra paNa potAnA daSTikoNathI dazya batAve. vAstaviktAne sarasa opa ApavAnI zakti kalAmAM hoya che. kalAkAra potAne je batAvavuM hoya te batAve ane je chupAvavuM hoya te pAve. eTaluM ja nahi, hoya tenA karatAM tene juduM batAve. phoTogrAphI dvArA, judA judA lensa dvArA calacitramAM to evuM karavAno ghaNo avakAza rahe che.' nIce nadImAM pANI hatuM, paNa te beya kAMThA sudhInuM nahotuM. meM gAIDane pUchyuM, "nadImAM kAyama ATaluM ochuM pANI rahe che ?' varasAda paDe tyAre vadhe athavA uparavAsamAM AvelA tyAre vadhe ane te paNa thoDA divasa mATe. pachI to ATaluM ja pANI rahe che." "calacitramAM to keTaluM badhuM pANI batAvAyuM che! pula uparathI mANasa bhUsako mAre che. eTale eTaluM UMDuM pANI emAM che.' emAM paNa phoTogrAphInI karAmata hoI zake. sAruM calacitra banAvavA sAru pANI batAvavuM paDe.' eka mitre kahyuM. eTalAmAM pula nIcethI eka hoDI pANImAM pasAra thatI hatI. gAIDe pUchyuM, "tamAre hoDImAM pharavuM che ?' hAsto! ATale sudhI AvyA chIe to nadImAM sahelagAha karyA vagara kema jaIe ?' ame kahyuM. ame pula parathI pAchA kinAre AvI, nIce UtarI nadInA paTamAM gayA. hoDIvALA sAthe kalAkanuM TharAvIne beThA. halesAM ane vAMsaDA vaDe hoDI sarakavA lAgI. pANI khAsa UMDuM nahotuM. khAkhI raMganuM DahoLuM pANI paNa cittane prasannatA ApavAnI kSamatA dharAvatuM

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kavAI nadInA kinAre 193 hatuM. baMne kAMThAnI naisargika ramaNIyatA hRdayane ullasita karI de tevI hatI. kAMThe vaselAM koI koI nAnAM gAmaDAMomAM thoDI avarajavara dekhAtI hatI. mANaso kyAM kyAM vase che ane tyAM ne tyAM ja potAnuM jIvana pUruM kare che eno khyAla AvA pradezomAM na AvelA zaherIjanone kyAMthI Ave ? jalavihAra karI ame pAchA pharyA. gAmaThI resTorAMmAM alpAhAra laI ame vAI nadInA pulanI vidAya lIdhI. eNe amArA cittamAM viSAdanI lAgaNI prasarAvI dIdhI hatI. Ama to pula bAMdhavAmAM eka paNa mANasa zA mATe maravo joIe ? koI akasmAta thAya to te judI vAta che, paNa A pula to aDadhA bhUkhyA yuddhakedIo pAse mArImArIne parANe baMdhAvelo che. jeo maratA jAya teone pAsenI khullI jagyAmAM daphanAvAtA jAya. keTalA yuddhakedIo maryA haze ? Ama to yuddhanA AMkaDA atizayokti bharelA paNa hoya che eTale bAra-paMdara hajAra yuddhakedIonA kahevAtA AMkaDAmAMthI ochA karavA hoya teTalA ochA pharIe topaNa dhArelo AMkaDo narI nirdayatAno ja ghAtaka banI rahe che. pAchA pharatAM ame yuddhakedIonuM kabrastAna jovA gADI thaMbhAvI. sAmAnya kabrastAnanI mudrA eka prakAranI hoya che ane sAmUhika daphanavidhi thaI hoya evA, vizeSataH sainikonA kabrastAnanI judI hoya che. laMbacorasa ane upara sainikanuM nAma kotarelI zilAonI najIka najIka sarakhA aMtare hAra jatAM eka viziSTa bhaumitika AkRti lAge. ADI ane UbhI sarakhI hAra jatAM ja lAge ke A khAsa banAveluM kabrastAna che. A kabrastAna to yuddhasmAraka - War Memorial che. zilAo vacce UgelAM puSpo tathA lIlAchama ghAsane lIdhe samagra dazyanI judI ja chApa paDatI hatI. yuddhamAM jApAnano parAjaya thayo eTale ahIM poDhelA AtmAonI kurabAnI nirarthaka nathI gaI ema lAge. emane ame manomana vaMdana karyA. keTaleka sthaLe kabrastAnomAM bane che tema ahIM paNa baneluM joyuM. vaccethI eka keDI pasAra thatI hatI. kabrastAnanA eka daravAjethI dAkhala thaI zALAmAMthI chUTelAM nAnAM bALako bIje daravAje nIkaLatAM hatAM. TUMko rasto zodhI kADhavo e to manuSyano svabhAva che. e mATe rojeroja smazAna ke kabrastAnamAM jatAM paNa mANasa acakAto nathI. keTalAka mANasone bIka lAge che, paraMtu vastI jyAre smazAna ke kabrastAnanI najIka AvatI jAya che tyAre enI bhayAnakatA ochI thaI jAya che. rojeroja emAMthI javAAvavAne lIdhe mANasanI saMvedanazIlatA paNa ochI thaI jAya che. prAthamika zALAnA A vidyArthIono gaNaveza hato - sapheda zarTa ane gherA vAdaLI raMganI aDadhI caDDI. e jotAM ja mane thayuM ke are, A mAro paNa nAnapaNamAM gaNaveza hato. aMgrejonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna sapheda zarTa sAthe khAkhI raMganI ke gherA vAdaLI raMganI aDadhI caDDI zALAnA vidyArthIoe paheravAnI rahetI. A bhUlakAMone joIne huM 13

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194 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana jANe mArA bAlyakALanAM saMsmaraNomAM sarI paDyo. bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate muMbaImAM rAtane vakhate aMdhArapaTa (Black Out chavAI jato. sAyarana vAge tyAre zuM karavuM eno lokone mahAvaro karAvAto. 14mI eprila 1944nA roja godImAM jahAjamAM visphoTaka dravyone lIdhe bhayaMkara dhaDAko thayelo ane jANe jApAnIo AvI pahoMcyA che evo bhaya prasarelo. ghaDIbhara bhUtakALanA e vicAromAM huM vilIna thaI gayo hato. kabrastAna joI ame gADImAM beThA. have sIdhA beMgakoka pahoMcavAnuM hatuM. DrAIvare kahyuM, 'joyone kavAI nadIno vikhyAta pula !' hA, kharekhara eka aitihAsika sthaLa jovA maLyuM.' amArA lokone to A pula vize badhI khabara che, paNa calacitra UtaryA pachI to e duniyAmAM mazahura banI gayo che.' are, ame to agAu A nadInuM nAma paNa kyAreya sAMbhaLyuM nahotuM. calacitra ene AkhI duniyAmAM jANItuM karI dIdhuM.' eka mitre kahyuM. meM mArI adhyApakIya zailIthI kahyuM, 'kalAnI e ja to mahattA che. kalAkAra potAnI kalpanAthI ane AgavI kalAdaSTithI vAstaviktAne evI navInatA arpe che ke je bhAvakane AnaMdanI anubhUti karAve che. kyAreka to e vAstaviktAne kalpanAthI evI rIte DhAMkI de che ke vAta na pUcho.' 'tamArI vAta sAcI che.' DrAIvare kahyuM ane umeryuM, 'eka vAtano khulAso karuM. AkhI duniyAmAM aneka lokoe calacitramAM kavAI nadI ane eno pula joyAM, paraMtu vAstavika rIte zuM banyuM te khabara che ? 'nA.' siyAmanI A aitihAsika ghaTanA parathI pitherI boule nAmanA kathAkAre maulika kathA to lakhI, paraMtu emAM eNe potAnI kalpanAnA raMgo pUryA. sAtAI ane nikolasananAM nAmo paNa kAlpanika che ane temanI vacce banelI ghaTanA paNa kAlpanika che." "paNa evuM to kAlpanika kathAmAM hovAnuM ja.' e sAcuM, paNa kathA lakhanAre lakhatI vakhate kavAI nadIno pula joyo haze ke kema te vize paNa mane zaMkA che, kAraNa ke enA uparathI calacitra utAranArA ahIM AvyA tyAre mUMjhavaNamAM mukAI gayA. kathAkAre varNavelAM je keTalAMka dayo batAvavAM che e mATe to A nadI ane A pula baMne nAnAM paDe ema che. have karavuM zuM? paraMtu kalAkAra enuM nAma ke je AmAMthI kalAtmaka rasto zodhI kADhe.' eTale teoe zuM karyuM ?' teone jyAre lAgyuM ke A pula kAmamAM Ave evo nathI, vaLI navo pula baMdhAto batAvavo che, to te paNa ahIM zakya nathI eTale AvA vAtAvaraNavALo bIjo

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kavAI nadInA kinAre 195 pula zodhI kADhavo joIe. kavAI nadInA pula para kaMI chApa mArI che ? evI jagyA zodhatAM zodhatAM zrIlaMkAmAM e maLI AvI. eTale jaMgala vagerenAM keTalAMka dazyo ahIMnAM lIdhAM ane nadI, pula, Trena vagerenAM dazyo zrIlaMkAmAM jaIne lIdhAM. e baMnenuM saMyojana karIne calacitra banAvyuM.' "kharekhara ? A to na mAnyAmAM Ave evI vAta che." paNa e taddana sAcI vAta che. "TheBridge on the RiverKwai calacitramAM batAvAtI nadI te kavAI nadI nathI ane je pula batAvAya che te pula paNa karAI nadI parano nathI. vAI nadInA pula upara cAlatAM tamane je zaMkA thaI hatI ke pula calacitramAM dekhAya che eTalo UMco ane moTo nathI tathA nadImAM pANI bahu nathI te zaMkA sAcI hatI." sAce ja mahAna kalAkAro kalpanAne evuM vAstavikatAnuM svarUpa ApI zake che ke te pratItikara lAgyA vagara rahe nahi' meM kahyuM. DrAIvare kahyuM, "sAco aitihAsika pula ane kAlpanika calacitra e baMne jemaNe joyAM hoya temane ja A vAta tarata samajAya evI che. amane lokone to enI khabara che ja, paraMtu pravAsIo AgaLa pahelethI ame A spaSTatA karatA nathI.' amArI TakasI beMgakoka pAse AvI tyAre aMdhAruM thavA lAgyuM hatuM. [thAI sarakAre A relave pulanA sthaLane have paryaTana-kendra tarIke vikasAvyuM che ane tyAM dhvani prakAzanA kAryakramanuM Ayojana paNa karyuM che.]

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30 pinAMga duniyAmAM TApuo ane baMdaronuM viziSTa prakAranuM mahattva rahyuM che. prAcIna kALamAM jyAre relave ke DAmaranI saDako nahotI ane jaMgalo moTAM tathA gADha hatAM tyAre jhaDapI jalamArganuM prAdhAnya rahetuM. nadI, sarovara ke samudranA kinAre AvelAM baMdaronI samRddhi ghaNI moTI rahetI. tyAM dezavidezanA vepArIo, vahANavaTIo, pravAsIo vagerenI avarajavara bahu rahetI. prAcIna lokakathAomAM enuM pratibimba joI zakAya che. vartamAna yugamAM relave, moTarakAra, vimAna vagereno vyavahAra vadhyo hovA chatAM moTAM moTAM jahAjonI avarajavara paNa eTalI ja vadhI che eTale baMdaronuM mahattva ghaTyuM nathI. sattaramA ane aDhAramA saikAmAM yuropamAMthI nIkaLelA Daca, porTugIjha, speniza, phrenca, aMgreja vagere baMdUkadhArI sAhasika zodhasapharIo AphrikAnA kinAre thaIne eziyAnA samudrakinAre AgaLa jema jema vadhatA gayA tema tema potAnI sattA jamAvatA gayA. svarakSaNa ane vyUhAtmaka pradeza tarIke TApuono kabajo laI teo teno upayoga karavA lAgyA hatA. e rIte malAyAnA pinAMga TApu upara isTa iMDiyA kaMpanIe I.sa. 1786mAM potAnI sattA jamAvI hatI. e pahelAM pinAMga TApunuM potAnuM svataMtra rAjAzAhI rAjya hatuM. aMgrejoe pinAMga choDyuM te pachI te malAyAnA yuniyananuM eka sabhya banyuM ane 1963 pachIthI te malayeziyAnA eka bhAgarUpa banI gayuM. nAriyeLI, rabara ane bIjAM ghaTAdAra vRkSothI raLiyAmaNA lAgatA ane havA khAvAnA sthaLa tarIke vikhyAta banelA A paMcakoNiyA pinAMga TApune aMgrejoe 'Pearl of the Orient', 'The Pride of the Pacific', 'Garden of the East` evAM sarasa nAma ApyAM hatAM, je kharekhara sArthaka lAge evAM che. tyAre pinAMga pAsenA samudrane teo pesiphika tarIke ja oLakhatA. doDha-be saikA pUrve bhAratamAM jyAre barmA brahmadeza tarIke, thAilenDa siyAma tarIke, inDoneziyA jAvA-sumAtrA tarIke ane malayeziyA malAyA tarIke jANItAM hatAM tyAre vepAra ane vahANavaTA mATe pinAMga bhAratavAsIo mATe mazahUra ane mahattvanuM baMdara hatuM. ghoghAbaMdaranA kinArethI cIna sudhI jatAM vahANo vacce pinAMgamAM paNa rokAtAM. e kALe malAyA ghaNo pachAta pradeza gaNAto. AMdAmAna ane nikobAranA TApuonI jema malAyAnAM jaMgalomAM paNa puruSo ane strIo nagna ke ardhanagna avasthAmAM rahetAM. aMgrejonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna siMgApora baMdarano vadhu vikAsa thayo. siMgAporanuM 196

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pinAMga 197 alaga rASTra thayA pachI malayeziyAnA pATanagara tarIke kuAlAlampurane mahattva maLatAM pinAMga pAchaLa paDI gayuM. ame pAMceka mitro 1977mAM kuAlAlampurathI pinAMga gayA hatA ane tyAM hoTala eNmbesaDaramAM UtaryA hatA. aitihAsika ane sAMskRtika dRSTie paNa A TApuno pravAsa karavA jevo che, malAyAmAM anyatra tema pinAMgamAM paNa ApaNane mULa sthAnika prajA, cInI lokonA vaMrAjo tathA bhAratIya, vizeSata: dakSiNa bhAratIya lokonA vaMzajo ama traNa prajAno triveNIsaMgama jovA maLe che. malAyAnA pazcima kinAre Avelo pinAMga TApu Azare 110 jeTalA corasa mAilamAM patharAyelo che. emAM cAre bAju samudrakinAro ane sapATa bhUmi che ane vacamAM UMcA UMcA DuMgaro che. jUnA vakhatamAM pinAMga zahera uparAMta baMdara paNa pinAMganA nAmathI ja oLakhAtuM hatuM, paraMtu aMgrejoe potAnA zAsanakALa daramiyAna baMdaranuM nAma jyorja TAuna karI nAkhyuM hatuM. pinAMga zaheramAM ame jude jude sthaLe pharyA. dakSiNa bhAratIya zailInuM hiMdu maMdira ame joyuM ane siyAmI zailInuM bauddha maMdira paNa joyuM. A bauddha maMdiranA prAMgaNamAM be yakSanI UbhI moTI mUrtio pravAsIomAM AkarSaNarUpa banI rahe che. taduparAMta ame tAMgoMga bhuMgAhanA ane bATu mAuganA samudrakinAre pharyA, bukita duMbaranA pArkamAM AMTA mAryA ane gilamardanAM joDiyAM jaLAzayo paNa joyAM. have amAre zaheranI bahAra pinAMganAM traNa mukhya jovA jevAM sthaLo te parvatIya relave, sarpamaMdira ane bauddha pegoDA jovAnAM hatAM. ame parvatIya relave mATe nIkaLyA. A relave pinAMganI eka moTI lAkSaNikatA che. aMgrejoe potAnA zAsanakALa daramiyAna e banAvelI. pinAMganI uttara AvelA lagabhaga aDhI hajAra phUTa UMcA ane sIdhA kaparA DuMgara para banAvelI eka DabbAnI A Trena tAranA jADA doraDA vaDe ghIme dhIme upara kheMcAtI jAya che. aMdara beThelAoe barAbara samatolapaNuM jALavavuM paDe. kazuMka pakaDIne besavuM paDe. A TrenamAM besavAno eka romAMcaka anubhava che. DuMgara uparanI vizALa samathaLa jagyA eTale jANe nAnuM hila sTezana. tyAMthI dUra sudhInuM AsapAsanuM dRzya manohara lAge che. maMda vaheto malayAnila zItaLa vAtAvaraNane prasannatAthI bharI de che. pinAMgamAM jovA jevuM eka anokhuM sthaLa te sarpamaMdira che. zaherathI thoDA mAIla dUra, jalutAga nAmano rasto pUro thAya che tyAM TekarI upara A maMdira AveluM che. TaeNksI karIne ame tyAM pahoMcyA. cInI zailInA pravezadvAravALuM, eka saikAthI vadhu jUnuM A maMdira mULa to 'hAka hina toga' tarIke eTale ke jaLadevatAnI pUjAbhakti mATe zarU thayeluM, paNa pachI e bauddha maMdira banI gayuM che. emAM dAkhala thatAM ja saMkhyAbaMdha sarpa najare paDe che. lokonI avarajavara na hoya ane koI ekaluM acAnaka gayuM hoya to bIka paNa

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18 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana lAge. sarpa ekabe IMca jeTalA jADA ane betraNa phUTa jeTalA lAMbA, AchA ke gherA lIlA raMganA che. badhA eka ja gotranA che. dhUpadAnI, phUlAvaravAjhamAM rAkhelI sUkI DAMkhaLIo, kabATa, Tebala vagere para jyAM jagyA maLe tyAM nAnAmoTA pacAsathI adhika sarpa kazAkane vIMTaLAIne zAntithI paDyA rahelA dekhAya che. sarpa doDAdoDI karatA nathI ke yAtrikone joIne gabharAIne bhAgatA nathI. jANe pALelA hoya tema paDyA rahyA hoya athavA sAva maMthara gatie jarA jarA khasatA hoya tema najare paDe che. A sarpano khorAka IMDAM che. sarpamaMdiranI bahAra bhakSaNa mATe jatA nathI eTale keTalAka yAtriko sarpa mATe IMDAM lAvIne game tyAM mUkI de che. jyAre koInI avarajavara na hoya tyAre sarpa IMDAMmAM kANuM pADI emAMthI rasa cUsI le che. A sarpanI eka khAsiyata e che ke sApaNa IMDAM mUkatI nathI, paNa betraNa IMca jeTalAM nAnAM aLasiyAM jevAM baccAMne janma Ape che. vaLate divase ame TekarI para AveluM ke loka sI' nAmanuM malAyAnuM suprasiddha bauddha maMdira jovA mATe TekasImAM pahoMcyA. amAro TekasI DrAIvara amAro gAIDa paNa hato. TekarI para caDavA mATe pagathiyAM paNa banAvyAM hatAM. ame thoDeka gayA tyAM eka taLAva AvyuM. kAcabAnA taLAva tarIke e jANItuM che. emAM jeTalA jovA maLyA eTalA badhA kAcabA eka taLAvamAM javalle ja jovA maLe. A taLAvanI viziSTatA e che ke A badhA ja kAcabA jIvatadAna pAmelA che. kAcabAnuM A 'nirbhaya taDAga' che. jaina dharmanI jema bauddha dharma paNa ahiMsAne varelo che. jIva choDAvavAnI pravRtti bauddha dharmamAM paNa che. dharmapremI dayALu mANaso koIka kAcabAne choDAvI A taLAvamAM mUkI zake che. e rIte kAcabAnI saMkhyA ahIM vadhatI ja rahe che. vaLI kAcabAnuM AyuSya paNa ghaNuM lAMbuM hoya che. keTalAka loko kAcabAnI nakkara pITha upara potAnuM nAma ane tArIkha kotarAve ke raMgAve che ke jethI potAnA vaMzavArasone koIka vAra kadAca e vAMcavA maLe. kAcabAnI jema bIjA eka taLAvamAM mAchalIo che. ene mAravA para paNa pratibaMdha che. loko kAcabA ane mAchalIone khAvA mATe kaMIka vAnagIo nAkhatA hoya che. ame AgaLa cAlyA. amArA gAIDe kahyuM, "maherabAnI karIne rastAnI vacamAM cAlajo, jethI tamArA paga bagaDe nahi." ame joyuM to rastAmAM eka kinAre kayAMka kayAMka lokoe zaucakriyA karelI dekhAtI hatI. ame moDhuM pheravI lIdhuM. AvA pavitra tIrthasthaLe paNa loko gaMdakI karatAM acakAtA nathI,' amArAmAMnA eke Takora karI. 'lokone zarama nahi AvatI hoya? sAme A dukAnavALA paNa kaMI nahi bolatA hoya ?' bIjAe kahyuM.

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pinAMga 199 "lokonI asaMskAritAnI te kaMI hada hoya ke nahi?' vaLI koIka potAno Akroza ThAlavyo. 'tame bIjAnI TIkA karo cho, paNa ApaNA bhAratamAM paNa Thera Thera jAhera rastA para ke relavenA pATA AgaLa loko rojeroja loTo ke DabaluM laIne kyAM nathI besatA ?' bIjAe javAba Apyo. 'eziyAnA gIca vastIvALA ane ochI suvidhAvALA garama dezomAM hajAro varSathI khultAmAM javAnI prathA cAlI Ave che, paNa AvA tIrthasthaLamAM mANase viveka vAparavo joIe,' meM kahyuM. sAruM che ke taDako che. nahi to keTalI durgadha mAre !' bIjA eke kahyuM. maLavisarjananAM dazyo joIne ame anubhavelI aprasannatA bauddha maMdiramAM dAkhala thatAM ja ochI thaI gaI. 'keha loka sI'nuM bauddha maMdira eka saikAthI vadhu jUnuM che, paraMtu enA pegoDAnuM bAMdhakAma vIsamI sadInA AraMbhanuM che. jUnA vakhatamAM be cInI bauddha sAdhuo potAnA ghaNA anuyAyIo sAthe pinAMga AvelA. teoe ahIM DuMgara upara bauddha maMdira bAMdhavAnI bhAvanA darzAvelI. eka cInI zrImaMta vepArIe potAnI vizALa jagyA bheTa tarIke ApI. emAM A bauddha maMdiranuM nirmANa thayuM. vakhata jatAM bhaktonI avarajavara vadhatAM Azare so phUTa UMcuM, sAta mALa jevI racanAvALuM pegoDAnA prakAranuM paththaranuM A maMdira bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM. bhagavAna tathAgatanA maMdira tarIke jANItA A navanirmita maMdiranuM uddaghATana 1930mAM thayuM hatuM. maMdiranI aMdaranI ane bahAranI bhavyatA yAtrikonAM mana harI le evI che. bauddha maMdira joI ame pAchA kya. gAIDe kahyuM ke "kaMIka yAdagIrI (sovenira) tarIke koIka cIjavastu kharIdavI hoya to ahIM dukAnomAM sarasa maLe che." ame eka dukAne pahoMcyA. pahoMcatAM ja amArAmAMnA eke dukAnadArane phariyAda karI, tamArI dukAna sAme loko maLavisarjana karI jAya che ane tame kema calAvI lo cho ?' 'amArI najara sAme thoDA koI karavA bese che ? e to vahelA AvIne karI jatA haze. utAvaLa hoya to ja karatA haze ne ?' 'tamAre polIsamAM phariyAda karavI joIe.' 'amAre kaMI phariyAda karavI nathI. ethI kaMI vaLavAnuM nathI. UlaTAnuM phariyAda na karavAthI amane phAyado che." phAyado ? kevI rIte ? amArI majAka te nathI karatA ne ?' 'nA; phAyado eTalA mATe ke A nimitte pravAsIo amane phariyAda karavA Ave che ane pachI amArA soveniramAMthI kaMIka ne kaMIka kharIdI jAya che. ame soniro jovAmAM

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200 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana magna banyA. tyAM dukAnadAre kahyuM, 'amArI pAse evI vastu paNa che ke je duniyAmAM tamane kayAMya jovA nahi maLe.' 'evI te kaI vastu che ? amane batAvo ne ?' dukAnadAre eka moTA baoNksamAMthI kADhIne pAMca vastuo kAunTara para mUkI dIdhI. e joIne ame tatkSaNa stabdha thaI gayA, DaghAI ja gayA. zI hatI e vastu ? jiMdagImAM kayAreya joI na hoya ane chatAM roja joI hoya evI e vastu hatI. e hatI maLavisarjananI - visarjita maLanI pratikRti, rabaraplAsTikanI banAvelI. gherA pILA, lIlAza paDatA pILA, gherA badAmI, AchA rAkhoDI ke evA bIjA koI raMganI judA judA AkAranI e pratikRtio eTalI badhI AbehUba banAvelI hatI ke jANe sAcI ja lAge. e joIne koI paNa mANasa avazya chetarAI ja jAya. e vastu hatI to ramakaDAM jevI, paNa ApaNane tenI sAme jotAM paNa cItarI caDe. dukAnadArane e hAthamAM letAM kazI cItarI nahotI caDatI, kAraNa ke e eno rojano vyavasAya hato. 'to pachI tamArI dukAnanI sAme che e badhI nakalI AkRti che ?' ame pUchyuM. 'hA jI. ame pote ja savAranA dukAna kholatI vakhate sAme rastA para e mUkI daIe chIe.' 'paNa tamArI A sUga caDe evI vastu kharIde koNa ?' 'jene sUga caDe te na laI jAya, paraMtu bIjA lai jAya che. koIne mUrkha banAvavA, koIne bhaDakAvI devA, prekTikala 'joka' mATe yuvAno, nAnAmoTA chokarAo A vastu ghaNI laI jAya che. koI beThuM hoya enI bAjumAM A mUkI devAthI mANasa tarata Ubho thai jAya. TrenamAM, basamAM ke koI sabhAmAM bhIDa hoya tyAre siphatathI A mUkI daIne pachI bIjAne uThADI jagyA meLavI zakAya che. eprilala mATe TapAlamAM sarasa paeNkiMga karIne svAnA karI zakAya che. koI abhimAnI mANasanuM abhimAna utArI zakAya che.' dukAnadAre enA upayogo darzAvyA, paNa ame koIe te vastu kharIdI nahi; kharIdI zakayA nahi. aparasane mANavAvALA loko paNa duniyAmAM hoya che e jANI Azcarya anubhavyuM. ame bIjAM keTalAMka sovenira kharIdyAM. jagatamAM keTalIka vastuo, vAto ane kAryo niSiddha (Taboo) gaNAya che, paraMtu temAM paNa bhinna bhinna prajA vacce tenuM bhinna bhinna pramANa hoya che. dareka prajAnI saMskAritAnI pArAzIzI ekasarakhI nathI hAtI.

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31 hela-darzana amerikAmAM bosTana pAse ekTana zaheramAM rahetA amArA putra ci. amitAbhane tyAM 1992mAM ame thoDA mahinA rahyAM hatAM. eka divasa amitAbhe kahyuM, "pappA, hela jovA javuM che ? atyAre julAI mahinA cAlu thayo eTale have te jovA maLaze, ahIM eTalAnTikamAM.' ' 'hA, jarUra jaIe. mane gamaze. joke meM to nAnI umaramAM gujarAtanI ApaNI mahI nadImAM vhela joI hatI.' A sAMbhaLI amitAbha vicAramAM paDI gayo. te bolyo, 'pappA, tame gamyuM mAro cho ke majAka karo cho ?' 'gapyuM paNa nahi ane majAka paNa nahi.' "te zuM gujarAtanI nAnakaDI mahI nadImAM vhela jovA maLe kharI ?" Ama to na maLe, paNa mane jovA maLI che. evI ghaTanA ajAyabIbharI gaNAya, paNa e che sAcI. | 'arabI samudramAM ja je vahela jovA na maLatI hoya to gujarAtanI nadImAM to kayAMthI jovA maLe ? ane te paNa mahI jevI nAnI nadImAM ?' amitAbhe prazna kyoM. "hA, Avo prazna thavo svAbhAvika che, paNa varSo pahelAM huM jyAre nAno hato tyAre A AzcaryakAraka ghaTanA banI hatI. vaDodarA rAjyamAM ApaNA vatana pAdarAnI najIka AvelAM DabakA-gaMbhIrA gAma pAsenA mahI nadInA kinAre eka vahela taNAIne AvI hatI ane tyAM ja mRtyu pAmI hatI.' e kevI rIte banyuM haze ? mahI nadI eTalI nAnI ane chIcharI che ke enA pANImAM vahela samAya kevI rIte ke tene kevI rIte ?' mahI nadI nAnI che e sAcuM, paNa ene mahIsAgara kahevAmAM Ave che, kAraNa ke arabI samudramAM dara pUname jyAre bahu moTI bharatI Ave che tyAre bharatInAM pANI moTAM moTAM ghoDApUranI jema nadImAM mAIlo sudhI dhasI jAya che. te samaye mahInuM svarUpa sAgara jevuM banI jAya che. emAM ta vakhata vahela mAchalI tarI zake. evI rIte AvelI vahela ghoDApUra osaratAM pAchI jaI zakI nahi. tyAM ja paDI rahI ane pANInA abhAve mRtyu pAmI. na mAnI zakAya evI A rAkSasI mAchalIne jovA mATe cAre bAju gAmaDAMomAMthI 21

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202 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana hajAro mANaso AvavA lAgyA hatA. keTalAka to vicapacIsa mAIla dUrathI cAlIne AvelA. ame paNa gayelA. be divasamAM to enuM zarIra durgadha phelAvavA lAgeluM. enA mRtakalevarano nikAla karavAmAM ghaNo parizrama sarakArI karmacArIone paDelo. e vahelanuM hADapiMjara, vaDodarAmAM kamATI bAganA myujhiyamamAM rAkhavAmAM AvyuM che. hela ahIMnA eTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAMthI AvI haze evuM anumAna thAya che. eTalAnTika mahAsAgara, bhAratIya mahAsAgara, arabI samudra ane khaMbhAtano akhAta ema nakzAmAM ApaNe vibhAgo pADyA che. paNa vAstavamAM to saLaMga eka ja jaLavistAra che. rojanA seMkaDo mAIla taravAnI tAkAtavALI, jaLAMtara karavAnA svabhAvavALI bhUlI paDelI koIka vhela khoTI dizAmAM doDatI' ja rahI haze ane pariNAme te mahI nadImAM pahoMcI gaI haze !' gappA jevI lAgatI paNa sAcI banelI e ghaTanAnI amitAbhane pratIti thaI. mahI nadImAM e hela joyA pachI citramAM, calacitramAM ke TI.vI.mAM vahela joI che, paNa haju sudhI sAkSAta jovA maLI nahotI. eTale amitAbhanI darakhAsta meM saharSa svIkArI lIdhI. ame hela jevAno kAryakrama goThavyo. amerikAnA pUrva kinAre AvelA ekaTana zaherathI eTalAnTika mahAsAgaranA kinAre kAramAM lagabhaga be kalAkamAM pahocI zakAya che. pAse AvelA glAusTara (Gloucester) nAmanA baMdarethI "sevana sIjha' (Seven Seas) nAmanI kaMpanI taraphathI julAI ane oNgasTa mAsamAM raheladarzana mATe pravAsIone sTImaramAM 'kepa ena' bAjunA samudramAM laI javAmAM Ave che. ame eka ravivAranuM nakkI karI, kaMpanIne phona joDI amArI TikiTa mATe sUcanA ApI dIdhI. nizcita thayelA ravivAre savAre sADA cha vAgye nIkaLI, savA varSanA pautra arcita sahita, parivAranA ame pAMca sabhyo gADImAM nIkaLI glAusTara baMdare pahoMcI gayAM ane sTImaramAM beThAM. navanA TakorA thayA ane amArI sTImare glAusTara baMdara choDyuM. vAtAvaraNa zAMta ane zItala hatuM. sTImara AgaLa vadhI tyAM mAIka parathI gAIDamahilAno amerikana uccArovALI aMgrejI bhASAmAM avAja saMbhaLAyo. eNe kahyuM : "suprabhAtam ! sajajano ane sannArIo! sevana sIjha kaMpanI taraphathI sTImara prAIveTIra" para ApanuM hArdika svAgata karIe chIe. ApaNe heladarzananA kAryakrama mATe ravAnA thaIe chIe. ApaNI kaMpanIe A eka mALavALI sTImara khAsa vhaladarzana mATe ja banAvaDAvI che. enuM bAMdhakAma sArA lokhaMDa vaDe evuM majabUta karAyuM che ke jethI helano jabaradasta dhakko lAge to paNa ApaNe hAlakaDolaka na thaI jaIe. nAnAmAM nAnA bALaka sahita ekeeka pravAsIne kaTheDA pAse UbhA rahIne vhaladarzana karavAnI, phoTo ke philma levAnI sarakhI sagavaDa maLI rahe eTalI bahAranI khullI jagyA rAkhavAmAM AvI che. pavana ke taDako sahana na thato hoya ke ArAma karavo hoya to aMdara

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207 vhela-darzana kebinamAM besavAnI paNa sagavaDa che. khAvApIvA mATe aMdara resTorAM paNa che. ApaNI sTImaranA kepTananuM nAma che sebI. eTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAM jahAja calAvavAno emano trIseka varSano saLaMga anubhava che. teo ApaNane vahela jovA mATe laI jaze. lagabhaga sADAtraNathI cAra kalAkanI ApaNI saphara che. vaheladarzana mATe nakkI thayelAM AMtararASTrIya dhArAdhoraNa mujaba sTImara cAlaze. e niyamo mujaba kepTana ke pravAsIo vahelane satAvI zakatA nathI.' - tyAra pachI kaeNpTane bolavuM zarU karyuM : "huM kaeNpTana sebI. vaheladarzananA AjanA ApaNA kAryakrama mATe gAIDa tarIke zrImatI sujhAna kArDa maLyAM che e ApaNA mATe bahu AnaMdanI vAta che. ApaNI kaMpanI sArAmAM sArI vyaktione meLavavAno prayAsa kare che. zrImatI sujhAna kArva jANItAM prakRtizAstrI che. temaNe vhelano ghaNo UMDo abhyAsa kyAM che ane lekho lakhyA che. chellAM dasa varSathI helanA abhyAsa mATe teo ArkaTika, pesiphika ane eTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAM ghaNuM kyAM che. teo vahela vize tamane badhI mAhitI Apaze. tamAre mane ke sujhAnane kaMI prazna pUchavo hoya to ni:saMkoca pUchI zako cho.' tyAM ja eka mahAzaye prazna karyo, 'eTalAnTika mahAsAgara to keTalo badho moTo che ! emAM hela kaI jagyAe che e kema khabara paDe ? vhela eka ja nizcita sthaLe rahetI nathI. e to ghaDIkamAM mAIlo dUra nIkaLI jAya che. jUnA vakhatamAM to zikArIo vahelano zikAra karavA nIkaLatA ane divasonA divaso sudhI dariyo kheDatA topaNa helanI bhALa meLavyA vinA pAchA pharatA evI ghaTanAo banatI.' hA, e vAta sAcI che, paNa have Adhunika sAdhano ghaNAM vadhyAM che. savAranA amArI kaMpanInuM helikaoNpTara A mahAsAgara para rAunDa mAre che ane je je sthaLe vahelanAM jUtha jovA maLe tenI nakazAmAM noMdha karI le che ane vAyaralesathI khabara Ape che eTale sTImara UpaDatAM pahelAM amane sUcanA maLI jAya che ke helanAM jUtho kyAM kyAM che. alabatta, ApaNe pahoMcIe eTalI vAramAM to vhelanuM jutha Amatema pAMcadasa mAIla nIkaLI paNa gayuM hoya.' bIjA eka sajajane pUchyuM, 'tame hela batAvavAnI geraMTI Apo cho, paNa evuM bane che kharuM ke tame vhela joyA vinA pharyA ho ?' (dara varSe A RtumAM be mahinA ane sTImara savAra, bapora ane sAMja pheravIe chIe. emAM cArapAMca vakhata to evuM bane ja che ke jyAre amane vahela jovA na maLI hoya. tyAre ame pravAsIone emanA DaoNlara pAchA ApI daIe chIe athavA emanI marajI hoya to kUpana ApI daIe chIe ke jeno teo potAnI anukULatA mujaba bIjI koI sapharamAM rijharvezana karAvI upayoga karI zake che.' "Aje ApaNane vahela jovA maLaze ?"

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204 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe -- uttarAlekhana 'tamArA nasIbamAM haze to maLaze ja, tame vadhAre nasIbadAra hazo to tamane be vAra sahelagAha karavA maLaze.' kaMTananA javAbathI vAtAvaraNamAM ramUja prasarI gaI. eNe kahyuM, "have huM mAruM kAma saMbhALuM chuM. sujhAna tamane vahela viSe mAhitI Apaze.' sujhAne kahyuM, 'vahelane duniyAmAM badhA loko mAchalI tarIke oLakhe che ane ema banavuM svAbhAvika che, kAraNa ke halane AkAra mAchalI jevo ja che. teno AhAra paNa enA jevo che ane te covIsa kalAka pANImAM rahe che. enuM samagra jIvana pANImAM vIte che ane pANI bahAra ta jIvI zakatI nathI, paraMtu prANIzAstrIo helane mAchalI gaNatA nathI. vahela sastana (Mammal) prakAranuM prANI che. vahela IMDAM mUkatI nathI, paNa pANImAM ja baccAne janma Ape che. eka prasUti vakhate eka ja bacce janme che. bacyuM mAne dhAve che ane mAruM thAya che. bacce sarerAza rojanuM aDadho Tana dUdha dhAve che eTale rojanuM sarerAza aTaluM moTuM thatuM jAya che. sthaLacara, khecara ane jaLacara evI samagra jIvasRSTimAM moTAmAM moTuM vidyamAna prANI hoya to te vahela che. prAgaitihAsika kALanuM eka moTAmAM moTuM prANI te DAyanAsorsa hatuM, paraMtu te paNa vhela karatAM aDadhAthI ochA kadanuM ane aDadhAthI ochA vajananuM hatuM. DAyanAsorsanuM vadhumAM vadhu vajana pacAsa TananuM manAya che. jyAre vahelanuM vajana so TanathI vadhAre hoI zake che ane helanI laMbAI paNa so phUTathI vadhAre hoI zake che. sthaLacara prANIomAM DAyanAsorsa moTAmAM moTuM eTale AkhuM haratuM pharatuM najare joI zakAya. vahelanuM tema nathI. vahela paNa prAgaitihAsika kALanuM ja prANI che, paNa te jaLacara che eTale haju jIvatuM jovA maLe che. sthaLacara ane khecara prANIone potAnuM astitva TakAvI rAkhavA mATe jeTalI anukULatA hoya che tenA karatAM jaLacarane vadhAre hoya che.' atyAre jamIna upara ApaNane moTAmAM moTA prANI tarIke hAthI jovA maLe che.' koIka vacce kahyuM. hA, paNa vahela AgaLa hAthI jANe ke nAnuM baccuM ja che. helanI phakta jIbha ja hAthInA kada karatAM moTI hoya che. hAthInuM vajana traNacAra TananuM hoya che, vhelanuM so TanathI vadhAre. vahela ghasaDAIne kinAre marelI paDI hoya athavA zikArIo mArIne ane kheMcI lAvyA hoya te vakhate vhela joI hoya to lAge ke jANe moTo rAkSasa (Monster) na hoya !' mArAthI rahevAyuM nahi. meM kahyuM, "evI hela meM najare joI che." 'vAha ! to to tamane eno khyAla AvI zakaze', sujhAne AgaLa kahyuM, 'hela mAchalI nahi, paNa prANI che, kAraNa ke enI bIjI eka lAkSaNikatA e che ke te covIsa kalAka pANImAM rahetI hovA chatAM zvAsa levA mATe ene pANInI bahAra AvavuM paDe che.

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hela-darzana 205 helA jyAre pANInI sapATI para Ave che tyAre paMdara-vIsa miniTa potAnI anukULatA pramANe rahe che ane pachI DUbakI mArIne nIce jAya che. vahelanAM phephasAM eka khaTArA jeTalAM moTAM hoya che. emAM te potAno zvAsa rUMdhIne kalAka-doDha kalAka rahI zake che. pharI havAnI jarUra paDatAM te bahAra Ave che. Ama enI prANavAyu levAnI pravRtti divasarAta niraMtara cAle che. hela mukhyatve dhruvapradezanA ThaMDA samudranuM prANI che. dhruvapradezamAM ziyALAmAM samudranuM pANI sapATI para TharIne barapha thaI jAya che. te vakhate baraphanA paDa nIcenA pANImAM keTalIye jAtanI mAchalIo vatI taratI rahe che, paraMtu vhela tyAM rahI zakatI nathI, kAraNa ke ene zvAsa levA sapATI para AvavuM paDe che. eTale ja vhela ziyALAmAM jaLAMtara karI seMkaDo mAIla dUra anukULa pANImAM cAlI jAya che. alAskA pAsenI hela pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM havAI TApu sudhI ke oNsTreliyA sudhI pahoMcI jAya che. grInalenDa, AIsalenDa bAjunI hela eTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAM dakSiNa tarapha TheTha kerebiyana samudra sudhI pahoMcI jAya che. evI ja rIte dakSiNa dhruvapradezamAM paNa bane che. darekano samaya judo judo hoya che. eTaluM nakkI che ke vahela e jaLAMtara karatuM, pAMcaso-hajAra ke vadhAre mAIla dUra cAlyuM jatuM ane pAchuM AvatuM prANI che. samudranA taLiye pAMca hajAra phUTa sudhI te nIce jaI zake che.' 'tame kahyuM ke vahela pANInI bahAra nIkaLe to marI jAya ane vaLI kaho cho ke zvAsa levA mATe ane bahAra nIkaLavuM paDe che. to e kevI rIte ?' 'hela zvAsa levA pANInI sapATI para bahAra Ave che ane vIsa-pacIsa miniTa ke aDadho kalAka te sapATI para moTuM bahAra rAkhIne rahI zake che. te koI vAra AkhI kUdIne pANInI bahAra nIkaLe che ane pAchI pANImAM paDe che. havAnI to ene jarUra che. mAchalI pANInI bahAra nIkaLe to gUMgaLAIne, taraphaDIne mRtyu pAme che evuM vhelanuM thatuM nathI, paraMtu vhelanuM zarIra eTaluM badhuM bhAre ane aMdarathI eTaluM badhuM poluM che ke te pANImAM ja barAbara samatolapaNuM jALavI zake che. pANInI bahAra ene rAkhavAmAM Ave to zarIranA uparanA bhAganA bhAre vajanane lIdhe tenuM peTa, tenAM hADakAM ane tenAM phephasAM kacaDAI jAya che ne ethI te gUMgaLAmaNa anubhavI mRtyu pAme che.' amuka jagyAe vahela che ema khabara kevI rIte paDe ?' hela evuM prANI che ke je potAnuM astitva chupAvI zakatuM nathI. enI zvAsa levAnI kriyA enI hAjarInI cADI khAya che. vahela jayAre zvAsa bahAra kADhe che tyAre tyAM dasa, paMdara ke vIsa phUTa UMcA phuvArA jevI racanA thAya che. te pahelAM zvAsa bahAra kADhe che ane pachI zvAsa le che. zvAsa kADhatI vakhate enAM phephasAMnI garama havA sAthe moDhAnAM tathA samudranAM jalabiMduo bhaLe che ane phuvArA jevuM dekhAya che. te pANIno phuvAro nahi, paNa jalakaNa sAtheno varALiyo phuvAro hoya che. e vakhate karkaza moTI sisoTI

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206 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana jevo avAja paNa thAya che. ethI vhelanI hAjarI chatI thaI jAya che. vhelanI AMkho bahu nAnI hoya che ane kAnanAM chidro to sAva jhINAM hoya che, paraMtu enAM nasakorAM moTAM ane mastakanA uparanA bhAgamAM hoya che. koIka vhelane eka ja nasakoruM hoya che. eno phuvAro trAMso UDe che. vhela zvAsa laI pANImAM tarata UMdhe mAthe DUbakI mAre che eTale enI pUMchaDI bahAra Ave che. A pUMchaDI paNa vhelanI upasthiti jAhera karI de che. vhela pANInI sapATI para jarUra pUratI ja Ave che. e vakhate pAsethI jo dRzya jovA maLe to lAge ke jANe nAnI kALIbhUkharI sabamarIna sapATI para AvI rahI che.' tyAra pachI vhelanA prakAro vize mAhitI ApatAM sujhAne kahyuM, 'vhelanA so karatAM vadhu judA judA prakAro che. vhela DolphinanI jema siTAyazA (Cetacea) kuLanuM prANI che. blu vhela sauthI moTA kadanI vhela che. taduparAMta sparma vhela, phina vhela, rAITa vhela, haMpabeka vhela, miMka vhela, boheDa vhela, gre vhela, kilara vhela ema enI khAsiyata pramANe nAma paDI gayAM che. vhelano abhyAsa duniyAmAM eTalo badho vadhI gayo che ane haju vadhato jAya che ke eka eka prakAra upara saMzodhanagraMtho lakhAyA che. vhelanA A badhA prakArone mukhya be prakAramAM vaheMcI nAkhavAmAM Ave che. eka te dAMtavALI (Toothed) vhela ane bIjI te gaLaNIvALI (Baleen) vhela. dAMtavALI vhelanA nIcenA jaDabAmAM dAMta hoya che. uparanA jaDabAmAM hoya ke nahi, dAMta vaDe te mAchalAM pakaDavAnuM kAma kare che, cAvavAnuM nahi. enA moDhAmAMthI ane peTamAMthI eNsiDa eTalA jhare che ke ene cAvavAnI mahenata karavI paDatI nathI. rojanA bethI traNa Tana jeTalo khorAka joIto hoya tyAM AvI mahenata karye pAra kayAre Ave ? gaLaNIvALI vhelane uparanA jaDabAmAM kAMTALAM hADakAMnI jALI hoya che. nIcenA jaDabAmAM kazuM nathI hotuM. te mAchalAMvALuM pANI potAnA moDhAmAM AvavA de che. pachI uparanA jaDabAnI jALI dabAvI moDhuM nIcuM karI jIbha vaDe badhuM pANI bahAra dhakelI de che ane moDhAmAM AvelAM mAchalAM ArogI jAya che. vhela bhUkhI hoya tyAre jaDabuM dabAve che. te sivAya oraDI jeTaluM moTuM enuM moDhuM khulluM hoya tyAre mAchalAM moDhAmAM jAya ane jIvatAM pAchAM Ave che.' vhelanI A lAkSaNikatA vize sAMbhaLI mane jaina dharmanI taMduliyA matsyanI kathAnuM smaraNa thayuM ke jemAM magaramacchanI AMkhanI pAMpaNamAM rahelI cokhAnA dANA jeTalI nAnI mAchalI vicAre che ke 'A magaramaccha kevo mUrkha che ke moDhAmAM AvelI mAchalI pAchI javA de che. huM houM to ekene jIvatI javA na dauM. badhI ja khAI jauM.' Ama manathI te bhayaMkara pApa bAMdhe che ane durgati pAme che. samudramAM moTI mAchalI nAnI mAchalIne gaLI jAya evo matsyagalAgalano nyAya pravartato hoya che, paNa moTI mAchalIne koIno Dara hoya che ke nahi ? jANe mArA manamAM UThelA praznano uttara ApatI hoya tema gAiDe kahyuM, 'rojanI ATalI badhI mAchalIo

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27 vahela-darzana khAI jatI hela paNa bIjI rIte bIkaNa che. ene moTAmAM moTo Dara zArka mAchalIno hoya che. eTale to vhela haMmezAM potAnA parivAranA jUthamAM phare che. ekaladokala pharatI nathI. jUthamAM hovAne lIdhe zArka Ave to badhI sAthe maLIne eno sAmano kare che. tamAma mAchalIomAM zArka sauthI vadhu krUra ane Akramaka hoya che. te potAnA tIkSNa dAMta vaDe baTakuM bharI mAMsano loco ja kADhI le che. zArka to mAnavabhakSI paNa che. vahela mAnavabhakSI nathI. ekasAthe ghaNI badhI zArka acAnaka trATake to ghAyala thayelI vhela prANa gumAve che. alabatta, helamAM eka baTakA bharanArI hamalAkhora zikArI vahela hoya che je zArkane paNa pahoMcI vaLe che. ene kilara vhela' kahe che. e to bIjI vhelane paNa baTakAM bharI, ghAyala karIne khAI jAya che. kilara vhela to dhruvapradezamAM sIla, rIMcha, volarasa vagerene paNa khAI jAya che. e eTalI hoziyAra ane jabarI hoya che ke enAthI bacavA mATe sIla vagere pANImAM taratA himakhaMDa (Ice-floe) upara caDI jAya to kilara vhela potAnA jorathI himakhaMDane halabalAvI sIlane pANImAM pADI nAkhe che ane pachI khAI jAya che.' vhela vize ghaNI badhI mAhitI sujhAne ApI. helanA zikAranI paNa vAta nIkaLI. sattaramA saikAmAM yuropamAM norvenI uttare spiTsabargana ane jAna mAyananI AsapAsanA samudramAM Daca ane bAska lokoe ane pachI aMgreja ane speniza lokoe helanA zikAra mATe pravRtti AraMbhI dIdhI hatI, kAraNa ke helanI carabImAMthI tela banatuM je judI judI rIte kAma lAgatuM. ene vyAvasAyika dhoraNe upayoga thavA lAgyo ane ethI vahelano zikAra paNa vadhI gayo. helanA moDhAnAM hADakAMmAMthI strIonAM ghareNAM banavA lAgyAM hatAM. helano zikAra vahANamAM besI lAMbA aNIdAra bhAlA (Harpoon) vaDe thato. e zikAra jokhamI hato. have to sTImaramAM besI khAsa banAvaTanI baMdUka vaDe bhAlo (Explosive Harpoon) mArI helano zikAra karAya che. zikArIo mATe have khAsa jokhama rahyuM nathI. vhelano zikAra eTalo badho vadhI gayo hato ke eka aMdAja pramANe gayA eka saikAmAM ATha lAkha jeTalI helano zikAra thayo haze. vaijJAniko ane paryAvaraNavAdIone ciMtA thavA lAgI ke je zikArane niyaMtrita karavAmAM nahi Ave to vhelanuM astitva ja maTI jaze. AthI ghaNA dezoe helanA vyaktigata zikAra para pratibaMdha mUkI dIdho che ane vyAvasAyika zikArIo mATe helanI saMkhyA maryAdita karI devAmAM AvI che. vaijJAnikone have helamAM vadhu rasa paDavA lAgyo che. helanA hAkoTA, chIMkoTA, sisoTA, susavATA evA judA judA avAjo arthabharyA che. emAM helanI bhASAnA saMketo che. evA avAjonuM rekorDiMga karI enuM reDiyo prasAraNa vahela vistAranA samudramAM karIne saMzodhana karavAmAM Ave che. AvatI kAlanI duniyAne vahela kaI rIte kAma lAgaze te kahI zakAya nahi.

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pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana vhela vize ghaNI badhI vAto sAMbhaLI. have vhela jovAno vakhata thaI gayo hato. kaeNpTane kahyuM, 'ApaNane maLelI mAhitI pramANe vhela hovAnA vistAramAM ApaNe AvI pahoMcyA chIe. vhela satata ghUmatuM prANI che eTale ahIM pAMcasAta mAIlanA vistAramAM ja haze. ApaNI sTImara have maMda gatie cAlaze. ame amArA zaktizALI dUrabIna vaDe vhela zodhavAno prayAsa karIzuM, paraMtu tamane paNa tamArA dUrabIna vaDe vhela dekhAya to tarata amAruM dhyAna kheMcazo. ame baMdara sAthe reDiyo saMparkamAM paNa chIe.' ame vheladarzana mATe utsukatAthI samudramAM dUra dUra sudhI najara karavA lAgyA. sTImara moTo cakarAvo levA lAgI. phuvAro ane pUMchaDI e be vaDe vhelanI bhALa lAgavAnI hatI. gAiDe kahyuM, 'uttara eTalAnTika mahAsAgaranA A vistAramAM julAI-oNgasTamAM ghaNI vhela Ave che enuM eka kAraNa e che ke A be mahinA daramiyAna sUryano taDako pANI upara vadhu kalAka paDe che. ethI pANInI aMdara seMkaDo mAIla sudhI amuka prakAranI zevALa ane vanaspati thAya che. e vhelane bahu bhAve che. A miSTAnna bhojana mATe dara varSe seMkaDo vhela A mahAsAgaramAM cakkara mArI jAya che.' 208 sTImare maMda gatie bIjo moTo cakarAvo lIdho paNa vhelanAM darzana durlabha hatAM. AMkho thAkavA lAgI, paNa phuvAro kyAMya UDato nahoto. kaeNpTana, gAiDa ane ghaNAM pravAsI potAnI Doka AmathI tema pheravatAM hatAM, paNa vhela jANe Aje amArAthI risAI gaI hoya evuM lAgyuM. kaeNpTane jAhera karyuM, 'ApaNe kamanasIba chIe ke haju sudhI eka paNa vhela ApaNane jovA maLI nathI. have eka moTuM chelluM cakkara mArIzuM ane vhela jovA nahi maLe to ApaNe pAchA pharavuM paDaze. AnAthI vadhAre samaya ame rokAI zakIe ema nathI. saMbhava che ke vhele dizA badalI hoya.' - chelluM rAunDa pUruM thayuM. badhAnA caherA para nirAzA pharI vaLI. kaeNpTane jAhera karyuM, 'kSamA karajo, paNa have ApaNe pAchAM pharIe chIe. be mahinAmAM je cArapAMca kamanasIba divasa hoya che emAMno eka divasa te Ajano che. A Rtuno A pahelo divasa che. baMdara para pahoMcIne kaMpanInA niyama mujaba tamArI kUpana meLavI lezo.' nirAza thaIne amArI sTImara pAchI pharavA lAgI. pravAsIonA caherA udAsIna thaI gayA. ghare jaIne bIjI vAra glAusTara pAchA AvavuM enA karatAM doDha vAgyAnI sapharamAM joDAI javuM evo ame nirNaya karyo. badhAM pravAsIo potapotAnA vartuLamAM besI cApANI ke laMca levA lAgyAM. samudradarzanamAM bItakAI rasa rahyo nahoto. taDako paNa vadhato jato hato. gharethI vahelI savAre nIkaLelAM keTalAMka pravAsIo paga laMbAvI khurazImAM beThAM beThAM jhokAM khAvA lAgyA hatA. koIka kAryakramanI asaphaLa pUrNAhuti pachInuM dRzya sarjAyuM hatuM. kaeNmerA ane dUrabIna navarAM thaI gayAM hatAM. hArelA sainikanI jema sTImara pIchekUca karI rahI hatI. lagabhaga aDadho jalamArga kapAI javA Avyo hato.

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vahela-darzana 209 tyAM sTImare gati dhImI karI nAkhI. kebinamAM beThelA, jhokAM khAnArAone thayuM ke glAusTara AvyuM ke zuM ? tyAM kepTane bUma mArI, "hela ! vhela !' badhAM UbhAM thaI gayAM. kebinavALA bahAra doDI AvyA. kaeNpTane batAvelI dizAmAM dUra badhAM tAkI rahyAM, paNa hela kyAMya dekhAtI nahotI. helanA phuvArA satata UDatA nathI. thoDI thoDI vAre te UDe che eTale dhIraja rAkhavI rahI. tyAM eka vAro dekhAyo ane badhAMe harSanAda karyo. parAjaya vijayamAM palaTAI gayo. kemerA ane dUrabIna pAchAM sakriya banI gayAM. sTImara dhIme dhIme e bAju khasavA lAgI. thoDI vAramAM te vhelonI najIka AvI pahoMcI. phuvArA ane pUMchaDI gaNatAM lAgyuM ke aMdAje sAta vhela haze. mahAsAgaramAM sisoTIbharyA phuvArA sAthe vahelanI ucchavAsa ane zvAsanI kriyA najare nihALavI e paNa eka anero anubhava che. A helo pravAsIothI TevAI gaI haze evuM lAgyuM. eka vahela to kUdako mArI aDadhI pANInI bahAra AvatI hatI. kaMpabeka prakAranI, pacAseka phUTanI bhUkharA kALA raMganI A hela hatI. pravAsIone saMtoSa thAya eTalI vAra sTImara UbhI rahI. pachI eNe baMdara tarapha prayANa karyuM. amArA divasane eNe saphaLa banAvI dIdho. baMdara para UtaryA pachI pravAsIonI gADIo potapotAnI dizAmAM cAlavA lAgI. sAcI helane meM pahelI vAra najaronajara joI hatI gujarAtamAM mahI nadInA kinAre mRtAvasthAmAM paDelI ane A bIjI vAra joI taratIpharatI, phuvArA choDatI ane DUbakI mAratI A uttara eTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAM. baMne anubhavo smRtipaTa para evA ja tAdaza rahelA che. sAgaramAM taratI vhela jovAnuM sadbhAgya badhAne sAMpaDatuM nathI. vhelanA jaLavistAramAM pahoMcavAnI anukULatA, anukULa havAmAna ane anukULa sAdhano hoya to vahela jovA maLe. duniyAmAM karoDo mANaso vhelanA vistArothI seMkaDo-hajAro mAIla dUra vase che. teone to citra, calacitra ke TI.vI.mAM jovA maLatI vhelathI saMtoSa mAnavo rahyo. anekane to enI khabara paNa nahi hoya ane rasa ke utsuktA paNa nahi hoya. vAgha, siMha, hAthI, geMDo, rIMcha, kAMgArU, mora, peMgvina vagere keTalAye pazupakSIo duniyAnA aneka prANIbAgomAM ane vividha mAchalIo mAchalIgharomAM pahoMcI gayAM che, paraMtu helane to jyAM hoya tyAM jaIne jovI paDe che. bhaviSyamAM atyaMta vizALa bAMdhelAM sarovaromAM anukULa jaLa, khorAka, havAmAna, uSNatAmAna vagerenI tamAma vyavasthA karIne AvatI kAlano manuSya helane paNa duniyAmAM badhe haratIpharatI karI de to navAI nahi!

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nAIlamAM naukAvihAra nAIla nadInA baMne kAMThe vaselA IjiyanA pATanagara kero (sthAnika loko kAhirA' uccAre che)mAM rAtane vakhate pharatA hoIe to nadImAM lAITanAM moTAM moTAM toraNothI zaNagArelI naukAone Amatema pharatI ane pANImAM surekha pratibiMba pADatI jovAno judo ja AnaMda che. ethIya vizeSa AnaMda to che e naukAmAM jAte pharavAne. Ijiyano pravAsa jema pirAmiDa joyA vagarano adhUro gaNAya tema nAIlanA naukAvihAra vinAno paNa adhUro ja gaNAya. keTalAMka sthaLono advitIya anubhava jIvyA karatAM joyuM bhaluM jevI kahevatane yathArtha TharAvato hoya che. nAIla nadInuM saundarya paNa evuM ja che. ame keTalAka mitro IjisanA pravAse gayA hatA tyAre keromAM nAIlamAM naukAvihArano kAryakrama paNa amAre mATe goThavAyo hato. jevuM sthAna bhAratamAM gaMgAmaiyAnuM che tevuM sthAna IjimamAM (misaramAM) nAIlamaiyAnuM che. gaMgA karatAM nAIla lAMbI ghaNI, paNa pahoLAImAM ane pANInA pravAhamAM gaMgA caDe. bhAratIya saMskRtinA poSaNa-saMvardhanamAM gaMgAno phALo ghaNo moTo che, paNa gaMgA uparAMta bIjI nadIono hisso paNa che, tyAre AphrikAmAM misaranI saMskRtinA janma ane vikAsamAM eka mAtra nAIlane ja yaza maLe che. naukAvihAranA kAryakrama mATe sAMje hoTela para teDavA AvanAra gAIDe savAre ja amane sUcanA ApatAM bhArapUrvaka kahyuM hatuM, "sAMje pAMca vAgye badhAe samayasara lonjamAM taiyAra rahevuM. badhAnI TikiTa AvI gaI che. ApaNe jo vahelA pahoMcIzuM to besavAnI sArI jagyA maLaze. moDuM thaze to pAchaLa besavuM paDaze. bahu moDuM thaze ane naukA UpaDI jaze to ApaNA paisA pANImAM jaze.' - potAne vAMke bIjAno kAryakrama na bagaDe evI takedArI rAkhI sau samaya karatAM vahelA laoNnjamAM AvI gayA hatA. gAIDa Avyo eTale enI sAthe ame sau bahAra nIkaLyA. ala gejhirAha- ala vAstA nAmanA vistAramAM Ubhe rAkhelI basamAM ame goThavAyA. gAIDe kahyuM, "ApaNe sTImaranA mathake pahoMcIe tyAM sudhImAM huM tamane amArI pavitra nAIla nadI vize thoDIka mAhitI ApIza. nAIla dekhAve thoDI nAnI lAgaze, paNa tamane jANIne Azcarya thaze ke AkhI duniyAnI te lAMbAmAM lAMbI nadI che. te Azare 4160 mAIla jeTalI lAMbI che. laMbAI uparAMta enI bIjI mahattvanI khAsiyata 25o

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nAIlamAM naukAvihAra 211 e che ke te dakSiNa dizAmAMthI uttara dizA tarapha vahe che. vizvanI ghaNIkharI moTI moTI nadIo pUrvamAMthI pazcimamAM ke pazcimamAMthI pUrvamAM ke uttaramAMthI dakSiNamAM vahe che. AphrikAmAM nAIla eka ja evI moTI nadI che ke je uttarAbhimukha che." gAIDe vacce prazna karyo, 'tame heroDoTasanuM nAma sAMbhaLyuM che ?' 'hA, grIka ItihAsakAra, aDhI hajAra varSa pahelAM je thaI gayA te ?' meM kahyuM. 'barAbara che; emaNe kahyuM che ke misaranI saMskRti e to nAIla nadInI daivI bheTa che. nAIla nadI na hoya to misaranI saMskRti na hoya. bhUmadhya samudramAM amArA sAmA kinAre grIsa AvyuM. je samaye grIsanI saMskRti nAnA baccA jevaDI hatI te samaye ijiptanI saMskRti pukhta vayanA mANasa jevaDI hatI, paraMtu mahattvano taphAvata e che ke lagabhaga cAra lAkha corasa mAIlanA IjiptanA vistAramAM mAtra lagabhaga pAMca TakA jeTalI jamInamAM loko vaselA che ane bAkInA paMcANuM TakA jamIna te saharAnuM raNa che. IjimanI lagabhaga sADAtraNa karoDa jeTalI je vastI che te mukhyatve A nAIla nadInI AsapAsa vaselI che. TAnjhAniyA, yugAnDA, ithiyopiyA ane sudAnamAM thaIne vahetI AvatI nAIlano sauthI vadhu lAbha Ijimane maLe che. nAIlane "nU (Blue) nAIla" kahevAmAM Ave che paNa ahIM keromAM to te kyAMya nU dekhAtI nathI ?' koIke prazna karyo. gAIDe kahyuM, 'ahIM ame ene nU kahetA nathI. vastuta: nU nAIla' ane "vhAITa nAIla' evAM be nAma che. vikaToriyA sarovaramAMthI bahAra nIkaLyA pachI nAIla be pravAhamAM vahecAI jAya che. A be judI judI nadIone oLakhavA mATe jUnA vakhatamAM lokoe emanAM pANInA raMga pramANe nAma pADyAM : "byunAIla' ane 'hAITa nAIla'. amArI bhASAmAM bla nAIlane "bahAra-ala-ajharaka' ane 'vhAITa nAIlane 'bAra-ala-biyAba' kahe che. sudAnamAM khArtuna pachI baMne nadIono saMgama thAya che ane pachI eka pravAharUpe IjiptamAM dAkhala thAya che. vaLI 'AtabArA' nAmanI nadIno enI sAthe saMgama thayA pachI enuM kada moTuM thAya che. kudaratanI racanA kevI che te juo ! ijimamAM khAsa kaMI varasAda paDato nathI. varasAda paDe che ebisiniyAmAM, paNa eno lAbha maLe che Ijiptane, kAraNa ke Ijita pAse UMDI lAMbI khINa che. eTale AgaLathI vahetI nadI khINanA nIcANavALA bhAgamAM vase che ane vRddhi pAmIne bhUmadhya samudrane maLe che.' 'tamArI A nadInuM mULa kayAM AvyuM ?' 'cAra hajAra mAIla karatAM vadhAre lAMbI nadI che eTale enuM mULa lagabhaga eTale dUra to hovuM jAIe. ogaNIsamA saikA sudhI to e vize koIne kazI khabara nahotI. speka, liviMgTana, morTana vagere yuropIya bahAdura sAhasika zodhapharIoe A vistAramAM

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212 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana rakhaDIne nakazAo taiyAra karelA. teoe batAveluM ke dakSiNamAM nyArArogo nAmanI nAnakaDI nirjharaNImAM nAIlanuM mULa che. tyAM eno janma; yugAnDA, sudAna vageremAM enI kizorAvasthA ane IjiptamAM enuM yauvana jovA maLe che. IjiptanI e janetA che, jIvAdorI che. prAcInakALamAM amArA loko pharAoha rAjAone devanI jema pUjatA, tema nadIne lokakalyANa karanArI pavitra mAtA tarIke pUjatA. teonI bhAvanA evI UMcI hatI ke nAIlamAM koI mAchalI pakaDatA nahi. rAjya taraphathI paNa pratibaMdha hato. nadI mATe ATalo badho bhAva thavAnuM kAraNa e hatuM ke eka bAju jIvananuM saMrakSaNa karanArI nadI che ane bIjI bAju hajAro mAIlanuM saLaMga nirjana raNa che. koI gujarI jAya to loko zabane gAmane pAdara raNanI retImAM dATI Ave. mANase AkhI jiMdagI raNamAM maDadAM daTAtAM joyAM hoya eTale lokonA manamAM raNa eTale kabrastAna, apazukaniyALa, bihAmaNuM evo khyAla baMdhAI gayelo. nadI eTale jIvana ane raNa eTale mRtyu evI gAMTha lokone manamAM pAkI thaI gayelI. nadImAM pUra Ave tyAre lokonAM haiyAMmAM AnaMdanI bharatI Ave, kAraNa ke nAIlamAM pUra na Ave to bhUkhamaro cAlu thAya. pUra Ave eTale mAIlo sudhInI jamIna bhInI thAya, kAMpa thAya, cIkaNA kAdavavALI phaLadrupa thAya ane khetIne lAyaka thAya. e be-traNa mahinAmAM AkhA varasanuM kAma karI levAnuM. gharanAM bairAMchokarAM badhAM kAme lAgI jAya. kALI majUrI kare. bApa dIkarAne salAha Ape, "beTA, nadImAM pUra Ave tyAre UMdhuM ghAlIne jamIna sAme najara rAkhato raheje ane thAkyA vagara khetInuM kAma karI leje, nahi to AkhuM varasa pastAvo raheze.' paNa have to AsvAnamAM baMdha baMdhAyo che ne ?' koIka prazna karyo. 'hA, AsthAnamAM baMdha baMdhAtA ane nAsara sarovaranI racanA thatAM Ijiptane bAre mAsa pANInI sArI sagavaDa thaI gaI che. nAIlamAM have AkhuM varSa ekasarakhuM pANI rahe che. eTale khetI bAre mAsa thaI zake che, paraMtu haju paNa jUnI ghareDa pramANe amuka ja mahinAmAM khetI karanArA loko paNa ghaNA che. nAIlanI vAto purI thAya te pahelAM to naukAvihAra mATenuM mathaka AvI gayuM. kinAre lAMgarelI judI judI naukAomAMthI amArA mATenI naukAmAM gAIDa amane dorI gayo. pravezadvAra para amAruM svAgata karavA sTAphanA vinayI sabhyo suMdara vastromAM susajja thaIne UbhA hatA. sTImaramAM dAkhala thatAM ja amArA gAIDanuM moTuM paDI gayuM. te bolyo, "are ! ApaNe ATalA vahelA nIkaLyA, paNa ahIM to badhuM bharAI gayuM che. ApaNe chellA chIe." tarata kacavATa cAlu thayo. amArA grupanA sabhyone chevADe besADavAmAM AvyA. DhaLatI saMdhyA ane paDatI rAtri e baMnenuM sauMdarya mANavA maLaze, paNa saMgIta-nRtyanI mahephila sarakhI mANavA nahi maLe eno raMja ghaNAnAM manamAM UbharAvA lAgyo.

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nAIlamAM naukAvihAra 217 raMgaberaMgI lAITonAM vividha prakAranAM toraNo ane phuggAothI sTImarane zaNagAravAmAM AvI hatI. vAtAvaraNa uSmA ane ullAsanuM hatuM. sTImaranA eka cheDe maMca jevuM hatuM. moTI lAITo ane mAIkanI vyavasthA hatI. enI sAme hArabaMdha khurasIo hatI. vacamAM ane baMne cheDe peseja hato ke jethI UThavA-besavAmAM koIne khaseDavA na paDe. vacce vacce ThaMDAM pINAM mATe TipoI gAThavelI hatI. sabhAmaMDapa ronakadAra hato. vaccenA bhAgamAM, sTImaramAM Deka upara javA mATeno dAdara hato. bhojanasAmagrI mATenAM Tebalo hatAM, chevADe zaucAlaya hatAM. maMca AgaLano sabhAmaMDapa dAdara pAse AvIne be bhAgamAM vaheMcAI jato hato. tyAMthI paNa maMcanuM dazya to barAbara joI zakAya ema hatuM, paNa AgaLa besavAnI majA judI hatI e paNa samajI zakAtuM hatuM. chevADe besavAnuM AvyuM eTale ghaNAe nirAzA anubhavI. amArA grupanA eka sabhya to gussAmAM AvI gayA hatA ane Ayojako sAthe jhaghaDo karavAnA mUDamAM hatA. emane ThaMDA pADatAM meM kahyuM, "bIjA loko vahelA AvIne AgaLa besI gayA. emAM koIno vAMka nathI. have mananA bhAvo bagADIe to mahephilanI majA mANavA nahi maLe. mATe je sthiti che te zAMtithI svIkArI levI joIe.' ame badhA potapotAnI beThakamAM goThavAyA. ThaMDAM pINAM pIrasAvAM cAlu thayAM. amArA eka mitra bahu vyavahAradakSa gaNAya. teo maMca sudhI be rAunDa mArI AvyA. be grupamAM eka eka khurazI khAlI hatI. te te grupane emaNe vinayapUrvaka pUchI lIdhuM ke amArAmAMthI koI paNa be jaNa emanI sAthe besIe to kaMI vAMdho che ? temanI saMmati maLatAM teo sTImaranA saMcAlaka pAse pahoMcyA ane pUchyuM, "dareke potAnA grupamAM ja besavuM anivArya che ?' saMcAlake kahyuM, "hA, dareke potAnA grupamAM ja besavuM jarUrI che. ethI amane gaNatarI karatAM phAve ane khAvApIvAmAM badhAnuM dhyAna rAkhavAnuM anukULa rahe.' 'paNa amArA grupane sAva chelle beThako maLI che. AgaLa be khurazI khAlI che. tame rajA Apo to amArAmAMthI be jaNane AgaLa besavA maLe. tame kahezo tyAre pAchA cAlyA jaIzuM.' 'paNa e grupavALA tamane besavA nahi de.' emanI saMmati meM laI lIdhI che. to bhale, paNa bIjA koI mahemAno DisTarba na thAya ane tamArA grupanA sabhyomAM kacakaca na thAya te jojo.' amArA grupamAM ThaMDAM pINAMno Ubharo peTamAM jatAM cittano Ubharo zamI gayo hato. badhA potapotAnI vAtomAM magna banI gayA hatA. pelA mitre AgaLa besADavA mATe bIjI vyakti tarIke mArI pasaMdagI karI. keTalIka AnAkAnI pachI huM tyAM jaI eka

Page #231
214 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana khAlI khurazImAM beTho. badhA ajANyA loko hatA. AvI sapharamAM sthAnika loko to hoya nahi. judA judA dezonA pravAsIo ja hoya. meM joyuM ke mArA mitre to potAnI bAjuvALA sAthe goThaDI mAMDI hatI. thoDI vAra pachI emaNe IzAro karI mane bolAvyo. kahe, "A bAjuvALA sajajanane meM vAta karI. potAnA grupamAM teo ekalA ja che. meM kahyuM ke mArA mitra ekalA paDI gayA che, tamane vAMdho na hoya to beThaka badalAvI Apazo ? eTale emaNe hA pADI che.' Ama, beThako badalAI ane ame be cothI hAramAM bArI pAse bAjubAjumAM goThavAI gayA. samaya thayo eTale manoraMjana kAryakrama mATenA kalAkAro maMca para AvI gayA. eka cabarAka yuvaka ane eka hasamukhI yuvatIe hAthamAM mAIka laInAcatAM nAcatAM svAgatagIta zarU karyuM. bhinna bhinna vAjiMtro vagADanArAoe vAtAvaraNa gajavI dIdhuM. baMneno kaMTha madhura ane moTo hato ja, paNa dhvanivardhaka yaMtra vaDe paDatA enA paDaghAthI e vadhu zravaNapriya banato hato. saMgItanA sUrono evo tvarita laya hato ke sAMbhaLanArAone hAtha ke pagathI laya purAvavAnuM mana thAya. gIta ApaNA cittane ane najarane pakaDI rAkhe evA hAvabhAvathI rajU thayuM. yuvakayuvatIe Ijitana lAkSaNika gaNAya evo kImatI pozAka paheryo hato. enA para jarInI TIkIo ane kImatI naMga evI rIte TAMkavAmAM AvyAM hatAM ke emanA para pheravAtI lAITanA prakAzamAM te cakacakita lAgatAM. baMnee mana mUkIne gIta gAyuM. tALIonA gaDagaDATa thayA. gIta pUruM thayuM tyAM sudhI amArI najara bahAra nahotI gaI. have svaccha pAradarzaka kAcavALI bArImAMthI bahAra joyuM to amArI naukA nadImAM atyaMta maMda gatie cAlI rahI hatI. jyAre e cAlu thaI enI khabara paNa na paDI. nA avAja Avyo ke na AMcako. erakaMDizanano ja e pratApa. eka pachI eka ema, vacce virAma vagara gIto rajU thayAM, ThaMDAM pINAM yatheccha pivAtAM rahyAM. poNo kalAka kyAM vItI gayo tenI khabara paNa na paDI. saMgItanI mahephila aDadhe pahoMcI. bhojana mATe virAma jAhera thayo. judAM judAM Tebala para vividha prakAranI puSkaLa vAnagIo rAkhavAmAM AvI hatI. AvAM moTAM moMghAM AyojanomAM mahemAnone bhojana mATe paDApaDI karavAnI jarUra ja zAnI rahe ? saue udAratAthI udarapUrti karI. samaya hato eTale keTalAkanI jema ame paNa dAdara caDI Deka para gayA. tyAM najara karatAM ja bolI UThyA, "are, nIce karatAM ahIM upara khullAmAM cAre bAjunuM dazya keTaluM badhuM manohara lAge che !' aMdhAruM thaI gayuM hatuM. nadInA baMne kinAre AvelAM bahumALI makAnomAM dIvA thaI gayA hatA. kALA AkAzanI pazcAdbhUmAM e daraya koI svapnanagarI jevuM lAgatuM hatuM. dUra

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nAIlamAM naukAvihAra 215 kero TAvaranA makAnanI utUgatA najarane bharI detI hatI. nadInA nIramAM tenuM pratibiMba te jANe ke DokiyuM karavA TAvara nIce pANImAM Utayo hoya evuM lAgatuM hatuM. - virAma pUro thayo. saMgItanRtyanI mahephila pharI cAlu thaI. keTalIya beThako have khAlI hatI. AgaLavALA keTalAka Deka para gayA ane pAchaLavALA keTalAka AgaLa AvyA. amane betraNa mitrone thayuM ke ahIM gIto to eka pachI eka AvyAM karaze. have emAM navInatA nathI. enA karatAM upara vadhu AnaMda mANI zakAze. ame upara gayA. nIce yaMtrotpAdita zItala havA hatI. upara tAjagIsabhara malayAnila vaheto hato. nIce mAnavasarjita kalAtmaka vAtAvaraNa hatuM. upara nisarganI vyApaka lIlA hatI. nIce mAnavIya saMgIta hatuM. upara vaizvika zAnta kolAhala hato. paNa A badhuM to je anubhavI zake te ja anubhave. nIce besanArA paNa potAnI rIte sAcA ja hatA. samaya thatAM naukAe pAchA pharavA mATe dhIme dhIme moTo vaLAMka lIdho. uparathI e dazya ramya lAgatuM hatuM. kinArA paranAM sthaLonAM parimANa badalAtAM jatAM hatAM. nIce hota to kadAca A dazya ATalI sArI rIte jovA na maLyuM hota. sTImara pAchI pharI rahI che evo khyAla, saMgItanA tAnamAM kadAca na paNa Avata. sTImara calAvanAra kaptAne rojanA mahAvarAthI gatimAM vadhaghaTa karatA rahIne ghaDiyALane Takore sTImarane potAnI jagyAe lAvIne UbhI rAkhI. - saMgItano jalaso pUro thaI gayo hato. sTAphanA sabhyo mahemAnone vidAya ApavA daravAjAnI baMne bAju hArabaMdha UbhA rahI gayA hatA. eka yAdagAra anubhava laIne ame pAchA pharatA hatA. ame upara hatA eTale nIkaLavAmAM amAro naMbara chello hato. sTImaranI bahAra nIkaLatA hatA tyAM aMdara thoDe dUra UbhelAM yuvaka-yuvatI para amArI najara paDI. jANe ke badhAnI nIkaLavAnI rAha joIne na UbhAM hoya ! temano cahero paricita lAgyo. meM mitrane kahyuM, 'palAM gAnAra yuvaSuvatI to nahi hoya ?' "nA. caherA maLatA Ave che, paNa A loko to sAdA vezamAM che. vaLI pelA baMnenA to vALa paNa keTalA sarasa che! 'paNa e viga nahi hoya ? kaho na kaho, paNa mane to e ja lAge che. ema karIe... teo bahAra nIkaLI to sarasa gAvA mATe dhanyavAda ApIe, teo AbhAra mAne to sAcuM ane khoTuM hoya to ApaNe kSamA mAgavI.' ame bahAra nIkaLI rastAne cheDe phUTapAtha pAse UbhA rahyA. teo AvyAM. ame temanA saMgIta mATe khuzAlI vyakata karI dhanyavAda ApyA. teo bolyAM, "oha! tamane amAro kAryakrama gamyo ! AbhAra tamAro.' vAta laMbAvavAno temano IrAdo nahoto. eTaluM ja bolyA, "mApha karaje, ame utAvaLamAM chIe. bIjA eka

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216 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana saMgItanA kAryakramamAM amAre tarata pahoMcavAnuM che." ema bolI tyAM UbhelI moTarakAramAM besI teo vidAya thayAM. saMgItanA jalasAmAM raMgaberaMgI pozAkamAM teo kevAM sarasa lAgatAM hatAM. pharI pAchAM bIjA kAryakramamAM pahoMcI teo veza badalaze. be moMghA, mohaka bhADUtI pozAkanI vacce potAnA svAbhAvika gharanA pozAkamAM teo kSobha anubhavatAM hatAM te spaSTa joI zakAtuM hatuM. kalAkArone je dezamAM Dabala pALI karavI paDatI hoya e dezanI arthavyavasthA nabaLI na kahevAya ? - evo vicAra manamAM AvI gayo. gAIDanI doravaNI pramANe ame badhAM amArI basamAM jaIne beThA ane hoTela para AvyA. thoDA kalAkamAM nAIla nadImAM bhAva, vicAra, paristhiti ItyAdinA sAmyavaiSamyanA kevA kevA bhAtIgaLa anubhavo amane thayA !

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sTonahenja IgleMDamAM sTonahenja(Stonehenge)nA pravAse jaI AvelAomAMthI koIka je ema kahe ke tyAM kazuM jovA jevuM nathI, patharA che, naryA patharA', to ethI Azcarya pAmavA jevuM nathI. vastuta: sTonahenjamAM je jovA jevuM che te tyAMnA patharA ja che. e sivAya tyAM paryaTananI daSTie AkarSaka bIjuM kazuM ja nathI. AthI sAmAnya pravAsIne emAM rasa na paDe e svAbhAvika che. jeone mAnavajAtinA sAMskRtika ItihAsamAM rasa che, purAtatvamAM ruci che, prAcIna zilpa sthApatyanA avazeSo vize jijJAsA che teone sTonahenjamAM acUka rasa paDe evuM che. sTonanja eTale prAgaitihAsika kALanA sthApatyakaLAnA virala avazeSo. stonehenge e to vartamAna jagate ApeluM nAma che. prAgaitihAsika kALanI je prajAe A bAMdhakAma karyuM haze eNe enuM zuM nAma rAkhyuM haze tenI ApaNane kazI khabara nathI. stone eTale pASANa. Henge zabdaHang(laTakatuM)nA arthamAM vaparAyo che. mAnavajAtinA pASANayugamAM A bAMdhakAma thayuM che e daSTie Stone zabda yathArtha che. A sthaLe khAssI moTI zilAo upara bArasAkha ke toraNanI jema ADI zilAo goThavavAmAM AvI che eTale te laTakatI gaNAya. ApaNe stonehengenuM gujarAtI nAma ApavuM hoya to pASANatoraNa' athavA "avalaMbita zilAo' ke evuM kazuMka ApI zakIe. hakIkatamAM to evuM nAma paNa adhUruM ja gaNAya, kAraNa ke samagra racanA to eka maMdiranA AkAra jevI che eTale ene pASANayugIna devAlaya' tarIke vadhAre sArI rIte oLakhAvI zakAya. sTonahenjane IgleMDanI eka ajAyabI tarIke oLakhAvavAmAM Ave che. IMgleMDanI to e prAcInatama ImArata che ja, paNa itihAsakAro kahe che ke samagra yuropanI dharatI. para e mAnavasarjita prAcInatama avazeSa che. I.sa. 1984mAM ame keTalAka mitro laMDanathI lagabhaga eMsI mAIla dUra, saoNlsabarI(Salisbury)nA vizALa medAnI pradezamAM evana (Avon) nadInI pAse AvelA sTonahenjanAM darzana karavA nIkaLyA hatA. amArI gADI pahoMcavA AvI tyAM to ghaNe dUrathI sTonahenjanI AkRti spaSTa dekhAvA lAgI. unALAnA divaso hatA, AkAza 217

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28 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana svaccha hatuM ane najIkamAM bIjAM koI UMcAM makAno nahotAM eTale ekalIaTUlI e imAratanuM dRzya tarata oLakhAI jAya ane gamI jAya evuM hatuM. sTonahaeNnjanI AkRti atyaMta vilakSaNa che. sthApatyakalAnA keTalAka uttama namUnAonI nakala anyatra thAya che, paNa sTonahaeNnjanI nakala duniyAmAM anyatra kayAMya enA kALamAM ke pachI thaI hoya topaNa enA avazeSo nathI. eTale sTonahaeNnjanI AkRti ajoDa che. viziSTa lAkSaNika mudrAvALI A AkRti eka vakhata barAbara dhyAnathI joI hoya to te kayAreya bhulAya evI nathI. sTonahaeNnja pahoMcI, gADImAMthI UtarI ame cAlavA lAgyA. mukhya mArga para thoDI nAnI nAnI dukAno hatI. ahIM bIjuM vecAya paNa zuM ? pikcara-posTakArDa, slAIDa, kaeNmerAnA rola, yAdagIrInI cIjavastuo vagere maLe. ame eka dukAnamAM dAkhala thayA. dukAnadAra vIseka varSanI atizaya sthULakAya yuvatI hatI. beThI beThI te kazuMka khAtI hatI. UThavAnI te ALasu jaNAI. gharAkanA svAgata jevuM nAma nahi. Ama paNa je joIe te cIjavastunA bhAva lakhelA hoya ane bhAvatAla (Bargain) jevuM hoya nahi. dukAnadAra sAmethI gharAkane pUche evI prathA paNa nahi. topaNa amArAmAMthI eke kaMika pUchaparacha karI to javAba uddhatAIbharyo maLyo. amArA bhAratIya ghauMvarNI caherAne kAraNe hoya ke sahaja rIte hoya, enA kaDaka udgAro manamAM pratikriyA jagAve evA hatA. enI cAmaDIno raMga goro hato paNa eno karaDAkIbharyo kadarUpo cahero, eNe dhAraNa karelAM vastrono lAla bhaDaka raMga, eno rukSa svara ane enA zabdonI tochaDAI A badhAMe thoDIka kSaNonI mulAkAtamAM paNa amArAM cittamAM apriya UMDI chApa pADI dIdhI. tarata ame tyAMthI nIkaLI gayA. cAlatAM cAlatAM sTonahaeNnjanA pravezadvAramAM dAkhala thayA. eka sajjana pharaja para tyAM UbhA hatA. bhUrA raMgano gaNaveza emaNe paheyo hato. A prAcIna bhagnAvazeSanA 'rakhevALa' tarIke teo emAM kAma karatA haze ema lAgyuM. emaNe amAruM sasmita svAgata karyuM. mAthe TAla ane karacalIovALI mukhamudrA parathI teo pAMsaTha-sitteranAM haze ema jaNAyuM. AvA sthaLanI nokarI kasoTI karanArI hoya che. pravAsIo hoya tyAre kAma, pachI navarA ne navarA. emanI sAthenI vAtacIta parathI jANyuM ke teo pAsenA koIka gAmamAM rahe che. nokarI mATe savArasAMja basamAM AvajA kare che. thoDe dUra AvelA avazeSo pAse ame pahoMcI gayA. ahIM zilAonuM bAMdhakAma vartuLAkAre thayeluM che. mULa bAMdhakAmamAMthI hAla aDadhAthI ochI zilAo rahI che. tema chatAM A imAratano nakazo kevo haze te samajI zakAya che. saMzodhakoe abhyAsa karIne AkhI AkRti kevI haze tenuM kAlpanika citra taiyAra kareluM che. Azare so phUTanA vyAsa jeTalA moTA vartuLamAM zilAo che. jamInamAM khADo khodI staMbhanI jema UbhI karelI

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sTonaheja 219 badhI zilAo dIvAlanI jema aDoaDa nathI, paraMtu be aDoaDa zilA pachI eTalI ja jagyA khAlI choDI devAmAM AvI che. zilAtaMbho upara ADI laMbacorasa zilAo vartuLAkAre aDoaDa saLaMga goThavelI haze. be zilAtaMbha vacce dvAra jevI thayelI racanA nihALI zakAya che eTale ke keTalIka ADI zilAo bArasAkha tarIke vaparAyelI che. samagra vartuLamAM evAM trIsa jeTalAM dvAra haze ema manAya che. A mukhya vartuLAkAranI aMdara bIjI moTI zilAo ghoDAnI nALanA AkAre goThavelI che. vartuLa ane nALa baMnenAM mukhya pravezadvAra eka ja dizAmAM che. A AkhI racanA koI maMdira jevI lAge che. aMdaranI nALa jevI racanA te garbhadvAra ane enI bahAranuM vartuLa te raMgamaMDapa haze evo bhAsa thAya che. A bAMdhakAmamAM UbhI laMbacorasa zilAo dasathI bAra phUTa UMcI che. keTalIka zilAo nIcethI saheja pahoLI ane upara jatAM sAMkaDI thAya che. pAMca-sAta TanathI mAMDIne vIsa-bAvIsa Tana sudhInA vajanavALI zilAo ahIM vaparAI che. zilAo kaMIka aNaghaDa lAge che. sarakhI ghasIne ene sapATa karavAmAM AvI hoya athavA enA upara kaMIka zilpakAma, kotarakAma thayuM hoya ema jaNAtuM nathI. kALano ghasAro ene jarUra lAgyo haze, to paNa zilpAdinA koI aNasAra temAM jovA maLatA nathI. purAtattvavido Adhunika vaijJAnika paddhatithI A paththaronI prAcInatA vize saMzodhana karIne jaNAve che ke sTonahejanuM A bAMdhakAma saheje pAMcathI cha hajAra varSa jeTaluM prAcIna che. kadAca emAM thoDA saikA vadhAre ke ochA hoI zake. A bAMdhakAmamAM judA judA tabakke jaNaddhAra ke vRddhi paNa kadAca thayAM hoya. yuropamAM grIsa ane romanI saMskRti traNa hajAra varSa jeTalI prAcIna manAya che, paNa sTonahenjanI saMskRti to ethI paNa ghaNI badhI prAcIna haze e nizcita che. kadAca vedakAlIna bhAratIya saMskRtinI samakAlIna A saMskRti haze. pASANayuganI sTonahenjanI saMskRti vize AdhArabhUta mAhitI ApaNane khAsa maLatI nathI, paNa saMzodhakoe saMzodhana karI potAnAM tAraNo je ApyAM che te parathI manAya che ke te kALanI prajA pAse potAnI paraMparAnuM viziSTa jJAna haze, potAnI IjanerI vidyA haze ane teo sArI zArIrika zakti dharAvatA haze, ahIM vaparAyelA retALa paththaro ane bhUrA-bhUkharA paththaro teo AsapAsathI lAvyA haze. keTalAka paththaro doDhaso-baso mAIla dUranA DuMgarAomAMthI ghasaDI lAvyA haze, je mATe temanI pAse ghaNI sArI zArIrika tAkAta haze. e lAvavAmAM teone keTalo zrama paDyo haze, keTalA divasa lAgyA haze, keTalA mANaso kAme lagADyA haze eno koI AdhArabhUta aMdAja maLato nathI. eTaluM nakkI che ke UbhI zilAo upara ATalI bhAre zilAo caDAvavA mATe temanI pAse koI paddhati haze. e prajA rakhaDu haze. ene khetI nahi AvaDatI hoya. vanaspati ane zikAra para te nabhatI haze ane jyAM pANI maLe

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220 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana tenI AsapAsa te sthira thatI rahetI haze. A vistAramAM te ThIka ThIka samaya sthira rahI haze. sTonahenjanI AsapAsanA keTalAka mAIlanA vistAramAM khodakAma karatAM prAgaitihAsika kALanI vartuLanA AkAranI ane laMbacorasa AkAranI kabaro (Barrows) moTI saMkhyAmAM maLI AvI che. A kabrastAna parathI anumAna thAya che ke A vistAramAM ghaNA mANasono vasavATa e kALe thayo haze. iMgleMDanI dharatI parano vikasita vasavATa to IsavI sananA AraMbha pachIno che. to pachI enI pahelAM traNathI cAra hajAra varSa pUrve A maMdira tyAM kevI rIte thayuM haze ? sTonahenjanI saMskRti pachI tyAM aMdhakArano yuga pravatyoM haze ? e prajA tyAMnI mULa prajA haze ke sthaLAMtara karatI karatI tyAM pahoMcI haze ? e prajAnuM nAma zuM ? enI bhASA kaI ? eno dharma kayo ? bhAratIya saMskRti sAthe eno koI saMbaMdha haze ? zuM e khagoLavidyAnI jANakAra haze ? zuM e sUryaprakAzanA AdhAre paDachAyAnI gaNatarI karIne koI AgAhI karatI haze ? zuM enI pAse bhaumitika AkRtionI upAsanAnI paddhati haze ? zuM enI pAse gupta rahasyamaya taMtrasAdhanA haze ? - AvA AvA ghaNA prazno pASANayuganI, e prajA vize thAya che. sTonahenjanI racanA eNe dhamapAsanA mATe karI haze ema jaNAya che. emAM koI chata nathI. sAva khullI racanA che. zuM pahelethI ja e pramANe haze ke samaya jatAM chatanA paththaro tUTI paDyA haze ? zuM hAla jevuM havAmAna che evuM ja tyAre tyAM haze ke vadhAre sAruM ane anukULa haze ? - AvA ghaNA prazno anuttarita ja rahe che. A vistAramAM khodakAma karatAM prAgaitihAsika kALanAM hADakAM, paththaro, kolaso vagere prakAranA avazeSo maLI AvyA che. e vize ThIka ThIka abhyAsa thayo che. ahIMthI be mAIla dUranI jagyAethI maLelA avazeSo parathI anumAna thAya che ke A pASANamaMdiranI jema kASTamaMdira (Woodhenge) tyAM haze ke jeno upayoga dharmasabhA tarIke thato haze. kabrastAna jevI eka jagyAmAMthI eka nAnI khoparI maLI AvI che, e nAnA bALakanI hovI joIe, paraMtu e khoparI bhAMgelI maLI che. saMzodhako prazna kare che ke zuM e prajA devadevInI ArAdhanAmAM bALakano bali caDAvatI haze ? sTonahenjano vistAra vizALa sapATa medAnono che. e vistAramAM briTiza sarakAre koI UMcA moTAM makAnonuM bAMdhakAma karavA dIdhuM nathI ke jethI sTonaheja DhaMkAI jAya ke eno prAkRtika pariveza ke enI naisargika zobhA maryAdita thaI jAya. lIlA ghAsa ane khullA AkAzane lIdhe sTonahenjanI AkRti savArasAMjanA sUryaprakAzamAM ke vAdaLAMonA vAtAvaraNamAM vividha zobhA dhAraNa karatI ghaNe dUrathI dekhAya che. sTonahenjamAM jovAnuM ochuM ane samaya pUrato hato eTale amAre utAvaLa karavAnI to hatI ja nahi. enI zilAonuM saMtoSapUrvaka avalokana karI ame pAchA pharyA. samaya

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sTonahanja ra thaI gayo hato eTale potAnI pharaja pUrI thatAM rakhevALe paNa cAlavA mAMDyuM. pravezadvAramAMthI bahAra nIkaLI eka dukAna pAse ame UbhA rahyA. keTalAke pikcara-posTakArDa, slAiDa vagerenI kharIdI karI. sAMja thaI gaI hatI paNa unALAnA divaso hatA eTale haju sUryAsta thayo nahoto. dhIme Dagale ame amArI gADI tarapha AgaLa vadhatA hatA. tyAM amArAmAMthI eke kahyuM, 'lAlabhUrA raMganuM tyAM kevuM sarasa milana jAmyuM che !' bolanAra zuM kahevA mAge che e tarata na samajAyuM, paNa pachI jotAMveta e spaSTa thaI gayuM ke lAlabhUrA raMganuM milana eTale pelI dukAnadAra yuvatI ane rakhevALanuM milana. 'basanI rAha jovAnA samayano sadupayoga sAro zodhI kADhyo che !' eke kaTAkSamAM kahyuM. bIjAe potAno pratibhAva darzAvatAM kahyuM, 'potAnI dIkarInI dIkarI jevaDI che, paNa ahIMnA lokone jAheramAM AvI rIte besatAM saMkoca na thAya.' amArI gADI laMDana tarapha cAlI. meM kahyuM, 'pASANayuga hoya ke arvAcIna yuga, AdimAnava hoya ke adyatana, manuSyanI prAkRtika saMvedanAo badhe ja ekasarakhI hoya che.' sTonahaeNnja e iMgleMDane gaurava apAve evuM prAgaitihAsika kALanI prajAnuM bhavya smAraka che. .

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dhUtanagara lAsa vegAsa jagatamAM eka moTA dhUtanagara (Gambling City) tarIke je vikhyAta che evA lAsa vegAsa(Las Vegas-lAsa vigAsa)mAM javAnuM amAre zuM prayojana hoya ? paNa banyuM evuM ke 1987mAM amerikAnA pravAse ame hatAM tyAre losa enjalasathI zikAgo jatAM, ame je eNralAInsanI TikiTa lIdhI hatI temAM, amArI nizcita karelI tArIkho pramANe losa enjalasathI lAsa vegAsa ane lAsa vegAsathI zikAgo e pramANe ja bukiMga amane maLI zake ema hatuM. rAtrirokANa paNa lAsa vegAsamAM karavAnuM hatuM. ame paNa manane manAvI lIdhuM ke cAlo, A rIte duniyAnuM eka moTuM dhUtanagara najare jovA maLaze. losa enjalasathI paroDhiye nIkaLI lAsa vegAsa ame pahoMcI gayAM. nakkI karelI hoTelamAM bIjA mALe amArI rUmamAM sAmAna mUkI ame vicAratAM hatAM ke AkhI rAta jAgatAM ane divase UMghatAM A ulUka nagaramAM samaya kema pasAra karavo ? mArAM patnIe kahyuM, "hoTelavALAne ja pUchI joIe.' tarata phona joDyo. javAba maLyo ke vadhAre divasa hoya to grAnDa kenyana jaI zakAya ane eka ja divasa hoya to hUvara DemanuM paryaTana thaI zake. huvara Dema mATe aDadhA kalAkamAM ja basa UpaDe che, be beThaka maLI zake ema che ane hoTela pAsethI ja besavAnuM che, eTale ame e mATe nAma noMdhAvI dIdhAM. bIjI kazI taiyArI karavAnI nahotI eTale tarata ame nIce UtaryA. basa AvI eTale emAM beThAM ane hUvara Dema tarapha prayANa karyuM. amerikAe potAnI keTalIka bhautika siddhio (moTA rastAo, nadI paranA pulo, baMdho, havAI mathako, thiyeTaro, relave sTezano, haoNspiTalo, yunivarsiTIo vagere) bIjA vizvayuddha pahelAM sastAratanA samayamAM meLavI lIdhI ane ThIka ThIka vaijJAnika pragati sAdhI lIdhI, eTale vartamAna jagatamAM samRddhinI spardhAmAM te mokhare rahe e svAbhAvika che. hUvara Dema jotAM enI pratIti thAya. 7ra6 phUTa UMco ane 1244 phUTa lAMbo A baMdha baMdhAyo tyAre eka ajAyabI jevo hato. nadInA baMdhathI jala ekatra thatAM je sarovara thayuM te amerikAnuM eka moTAmAM moTuM mAnavasarjita sarovara gaNAya che. liphaTamAM amane nadInA taTa sudhI laI javAmAM AvyAM. dAyakAo pahelAMnI amerikAnI e siddhi Aje paNa AMjI de evI che. A jaLarAzinA kRSividhutAdi ghaNA upayogomAMno eka te pAsenA raNavistArane raLiyAmaNuM karavAno paNa che. 222

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bhUtanagara lAsa vegAsa 223 hUvara DemanI yAtrA karI ame lAsa vegAsa pAchA pharyA. sAMjanuM vALu karIne ame laTAra mAravA nIkaLyAM. - yuropamAM monTe kArlo, hoMgakoMga pAse TApuzahera makAu jema dhUtanagara tarIke vikhyAta che tema amerikAmAM lAsa vegAsa che. amerikAmAM pazcima bAju nevADA rAjyanA raNavistAramAM lAsa vegAsa zahera navesarathI yojanAbaddha krame vikasAvavAmAM AvyuM che. eNrapaoNrTathI hoTela sudhI jaIe to khabara paNa na paDe ke raNamAM mAnave sarjelI A sohAmaNI mAyAnagarI che. lAsa vegAsano prati varSa ghaNo badho vikAsa thato rahyo che eTale enI sthAnika vastI, hoTelo, pravAsIonI saMkhyA, rojano vakaro vagerenA AMkaDA ghaDIkamAM jamA thaI jAya. pahelAM to te mAtra ghUtanagara ja hatuM. have to bIjA vyavasAyo paNa tyAM cAlu thayA che. sthAnika vastI paNa vadhI che ane emAM keTalAMka gujarAtI kuTuMbo paNa che. ame lAsa vegAsa gayAM hatAM tyAre to eka ja mukhya rastA para hArabaMdha moTI moTI hoTelo hatI ane dareka hoTelamAM kesino (Casino) hatA. (jyAM eka ja vizALa khaMDamAM judA judA jUthamAM ghaNA badhA mANaso jugAra ramatA hoya evA sthaLa mATe saMskRta zabda che dhUtasabhA'. kesino mATe e prayojI zakAya, paraMtu kesino zabda rUDha thayelo ane bolavAmAM saraLa che. 'jagArakhAnuM' zabda paNa prayojI zakAya. paNa e zabda halako paDI gayelo che.) alpa prayAse atiprAptinI taka e jugAranuM mukhya lakSaNa sarerAza sAmAnya manuSyanA cittane AkarSyA vagara rahe nahi. eTale prAcIna kALathI cAlI AvatI A aniSTa pravRttine kAyadAthI thoDeghaNe aMze niyaMtrita karI zakAya, paNa sarvathA nirmULa to kayAreya karI zakAze nahi. jugArane ApaNAM keTalAMka dhArmika pavoM sAthe paNa joDI devAmAM Avyo che, eTale emAM kazuM khoTuM nathI evo bhrama keTalAka lokonAM manamAM rahyA kare e svAbhAvika che. bhAratIya zAstrakAroe ghUtanA vyasananI jeTalI niMdA karI che eTalI pAzcAtya vicArakoe karI nathI. amArI hoTelamAM nIce ja vizALa kesino hato. amAre ramavuM nahotuM, mAtra taTasthabhAve avalokana karavuM hatuM. tapAsa karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke kesinomAM dAkhala thavA mATe kazI phI nathI, dAkhala thayA pachI ramavAnuM pharajiyAta nathI. emAM yatheccha pharI zako cho, bIjAne ramatAM nihALI zako cho. koI na joI jAya e jAtanuM khAnagI kazuM ramAtuM nathI. moTA bhAganAM to hArabaMdha sloTa-mazIno hatAM. koI dasa seTanAM to koI pacIsa, pacAsa senTanAM ane pAMca-dasa DaoNlaravALAM moMghAM paNa kharAM. kANAmAM sikko nAkho ane baTana dabAvo. ethI chUTelI goLI kyA khAnAmAM kevI rIte paDe che e pramANe rakama maLe. vaijJAnika paddhatithI mazIno evI rIte banAvelAM ke ekaMdare emAMthI mazIno ja kamAya.

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24 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana kesinomAM vacce moTAM moTAM Tebalo hatAM. TebalamAM vacce moTA ghaDiyALa jevuM hoya. eka yuvaka ke yuvatI baTana dabAvI jorathI enA kAMTAne ghumAve. te daramiyAna jene ramavuM hoya te potAne pasaMda hoya te AMkaDA para rakama mUke. kAMTo potAnI meLe sthira thAya tyAre tyAM je AMkaDo hoya tenA para mUkelI rakamanA badalAmAM nakkI karelI rakama maLe. koIka Tebala para e rIte pAnAM paNa ramAtAM hatAM. anya prakAranI ramato paNa ramAtI hatI. kesinomAM vIjaLIno prakAza eTalo badho hato ane raMgaberaMgI dIvAo evA jhaLahaLatA hatA ke jANe divasa ja hoya ! mANaso AvatA jAya ane jatA jAya. ramavA mATe kyAMya lAinamAM UbhA rahevuM paDe evuM nahi. rojanA rIDhA jugArIo karatAM kautukathI jovAramavA AvelA pravAsIonI saMkhyA ghaNI moTI hatI. jUnI paddhatinAM jugArakhAnAMomAM ramanArAomAM koika jIte, koika hAre, jItanArA pratye dveSa thAya, vadhu ramavA mATe tene pharaja pADavAmAM Ave, jUthabaMdhI thAya, navA AvelAne kevI rIte khAlI karavo enI vyavasthita yuktio thAya, hAthacAlAkI thAya, jUThThuM bolAya, vAtAvaraNa ugra bane to mArAmArI paNa thAya ane hatyA paNa thAya, kAyamanAM vera baMdhAya. AthI jugArakhAnAmAM jatAM mANasa Dare paNa kharo. AvA kesinomAM jyAM mazIno sAthe ramavAnuM hoya tyAM chetarapiMDInI citA nahi. badhuM vyavasthita ane niyamabaddha. koI Agraha ke dhamakI nahi. emAM manoraMjananuM tattva paNa bharapUra. eTale rojanAM hajAro sahelANIo jovA-ramavA Ave. alabatta, AvAM mazInomAM paNa mANasa jo vadhAre vakhata rame to Adata paDI jAya. mazInanA jugAramAM paNa jo vyasana thaI jAya to temAMthI chUTavAnuM agharuM paDe. jyAM dhRtanidA ochI che evA pAzcAtya jagatamAM paNa samAjahitaciMtako ane mAnasacikitsako evAM mazInomAM satata ramavA sAme lAlabattI dhare che. ame kesinomAM pharatAM hatAM tyAM thoDI thoDI vAre jorathI Tik Tis Tis Tim avAja Avato hato. zAno e avAja hato ? jene mazInamAMthI nANAM maLe te nIcenA sTIlanA vAsaNamAM paDe. paNa e mATe jorathI avAja thAya evAM vAsaNo rAkhavAnI jarUra zI ? eTalA mATe ke AjubAju badhA lokone khabara paDe ke A mazIno badhA sikkA khAI nathI jatAM, paNa DhagalAbaMdha Ape paNa che. to ja mANasa ramavA lalacAya. nasIba hoya to ramelI rakama karatAM pAMcapacIsa gaNI vadhAre rakama paNa maLI jAya. kesinomAM pharIne ame bahAra nIkaLatAM hatAM. maeNnejaranI amArA para najara paDI. pUchyuM, kema, kaMI ramavuM nathI ? chUTA sikkA ApuM ?' meM kahyuM, 'nA, ame AvuM kaMI ramatA nathI.' 'to pachI lAsa vegAsa AvyAM zAne ?' Avo koIka prazna maeNnejaranA caherA parathI ame vAMcI lIdho. paNa eNe e zabdamAM vyakta karyo nahi. amArI hoTalano maeNnejara e ja kesinono maeNnejara hato. te vinayI, saMskArI ane hasamukho hato.

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dhUtanagara lAsa vegAsa 225 ame bahAra nIkaLyAM ane AgaLa cAlyA. have lokonI avarajavara ghaNI vadhI gaI hatI. ahIM dareka hoTela ane dareka kesinoe potAnI vaiyaktikatA jALavavA mATe tarehatarehanA AkarSaka nusakhAo ArkiTekaTanI salAha laIne karelA dekhAyA. eka kesino pAse ghaNI bhIDa hatI. ame emAM dAkhala thayAM. tyAM paNa praveza phI to hatI ja nahi. emAM vaccovacca sarakasa ane jAdUnA sarasa khela thaI rahyA hatA. anyatra moghI TikiTa lIdhA pachI ja jovA maLe tevA khela ahIM vinAmUlya batAvAtA hatA. thoDA thoDA virAma pachI evA khela batAvAtA. mAIka upara enI jAherAta thatI. vacce sarasa saMgItanA sUro vahetA. vividha prakAranAM mazIno ane anya prakAranI ramatovALI e dhUtasabhA te jANe moTo meLo na jAmyo hoya ! upara-nIce eTalA badhA khaMDo ane eTalA vibhAgo hatA temaja eTalAM pravezadvAra hatAM ke kyAMthI dAkhala thayA te paNa yAda na rahe. sarakasa-jAdunA AvA khela mata batAvavAnuM mukhya prayojana te e ke kautukathI jovA AvelA mANasomAMthI thoDAka to thoDuMka ramIne jAya ja, judA judA kesinomAM bhinnabhinna prakAranA khelatamAzA hatA. kayAMka praveza phI paNa hatI. eka pachI eka A badhuM nihALatAM samaya to kyAMya cAlyo jAya. UbhAM UbhAM ke cAlatAM cAlatAM thAka lAge ke paga du:khe to besavAnI majhAnI sagavaDo paNa kharI. badhe yatheccha vicArI zako. kyAMya rokaToka nahi. koI pUchanAra nahi. kazo Dara nahi. rAta khUTe paNa ramavAnuM na khUTe. koInA caherA para thAka, ujAgaro ke vyagratAnAM lakSaNa jovA na maLe. sAthe bALako hoya to temane mATe ramavA javAnI yogya vyavasthA hoya. kyAMka rokaDa rakamane badale jItanAra mATe AkarSaka cIja-vastuonAM InAma paNa hoya. pharatAM pharatAM rAtanA eka to ghaDIkamAM vAgI gayo. haju to ghaNuM jovAnuM bAkI hatuM. paraMtu amAre savAre cAra vAgye hoTela choDI eNrapaoNrTa mATe nIkaLavAnuM hatuM. ame cAlatAM cAlatAM amArI hoTala pAse pAchAM AvI pahocyAM. menejarane maLI bila cUkavyuM. savAre cAra vAgye TekasI AvI jAya ane sAmAna mATe belabaoNya AvI jAya te mATe sUcanA ApI. menejare utsukatApUrvaka pharI pAcho e ja prazna karyo, 'tame kazuM ramyAM ke nahi ?' ema e ja javAba Apyo. maeNnejarano Azaya kamANI karavA mATe pUchavAno nahoto. ame bhAratIya hatAM eTale mAtra jijJAsApUrvaka ja pUchyuM hatuM. AvaDA moTA kesinomAM be mANasa rame ke na rame ethI kaMI pharaka paDato nathI. vaLI je napho-nukasAna che te to kaMpanIne che. ame bahAra nIkaLyAM. daravAjA pAse UbhAM rahI vicAra karyo ke nathI ramavuM e nakkI ja che. paraMtu bIjo vacalo koI vikalpa na vicArI zakAya ? yogyAyogyatAno jhAjho vicAra karyA vinA ame amArI mati mujaba saMkalpa karyo ke baMnee eka eka DaoNlara jeTalI rakama ramavI, ethI vadhAre nahi. sikkAo nAkhyA pachI je kadAca koI rakama maLe 15

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226 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana to teno pharI ramavA mATe upayoga karavo nahi. je kaMI rakama kadAca maLe to te rAkhavI nahi. dAnamAM ApI devI. ahIM garIba ke bhikhArI koI hotA nathI. TipanI prathA nathI. topaNa Tipa-bakSisa tarIke e rakama lAsa vegAsa choDatAM pahelAM ApI devI. potAnA be DaoNlara paNa emAMthI kADhI levA nahi. e to mazInamAM gayA ema ja samajI levuM. ame kesinomAM pharI dAkhala thayAM. menejarane saMtoSa thAya e mATe kahyuM, "ame baMne pratIkarUpe eka eka DaoNlara ramIzuM.' ame dasa dasa senTanA sikkA lIdhA. khAlI paDelAM bAjubAjunAM be sloTa mazIno sAme beThAM, mArAM patnIe pahelo sikko nAkhI baTana dabAvyuM. tyAM to Tim Tima Tima Tima karatI sikkAonI dhAra cAlI. eTalA badhA sikkA vAsaNamAM paDyA ke jANe ke mazInamAM koI bAkoruM to nahi paDyuM hoya ! eka pachI eka ema amArA baMnenA nAkhelA sikkAthI dhAryA karatAM ghaNA badhA sikkA AvyA. traNeka sikkA khAlI gayA haze. baMnenAM vAsaNamAM paDelA dasa dasa senTanA sikkA gaNI joyA. keTalA haze ? pacIsa DaoNlara ane cAlIsa senTa. ATalA badhA sikkA joI AnaMda kone na thAya? mANasa jugAra tarapha kema vaLe che te samajavuM agharuM nathI. paracUraNanA badalAmAM noTo laI ame rUma para AvyAM. rAtanA be vAgI gayA hatA. have sUvAno artha nahoto. Ama paNa amAre 'sAmAyika karavAnAM bAkI hatAM. lagabhaga cAra vAgyA sudhI ame sAmAyikamAM stuti, jApa, dhyAna vagere karI lIdhAM. cAra vAgatAM belaboya Avyo. sAmAna utAya. ene ApelI amArI agiyAra DaoNlaranI bakSisathI e rAjI rAjI thaI gayo. TekasI AvatAM ame eNrapaoNrTa tarapha ravAnA thayAM, phUTapAtha para cAlatAM dezavidezanA sahelANIonAM ToLeToLAM zaherane UMghavA detAM nahotAM. eNrapaoNrTa dUra nahotuM eTale pahoMcatAM vAra na lAgI. TeksInA sAta DaoNlara thayA. DrAIvaranA hAthamAM sAta DaoNlara mUkyA. pachI Tipa ApI paMdara DaoNlaranI. te to Azcaryamugdha thaI joI ja rahyo. aTakaLa karIne te bolyo, "sara, bahu ja AbhAra tamAro. mane lAge che ke lAsa vegAsamAM ramavAmAM tamAre bahu moTo taDAko paDyo haze !' meM kahyuM, "nA, je kaMI kamANI thaI te ahIM ja pUrI karIne jaIe chIe.' DrAIvara kazuM samajyo hoya tema lAgyuM nahi. samajAvavAnI jarUra nahotI. koInA gaLe jhaTa na Utare evI amArI vAta hatI. koIne emAM vediyApaNuM paNa lAge. ame DipArcara-lonjamAM dAkhala thayAM. jotAM chaka thaI jaIe evuM AkarSaka A eNrapaoNrTa che. ene zaNagAravA aDhaLaka nANAM kharcAyAM che. ahIM rojeroja AvatA asaMkhya sahelANIonAM nANAMnI nadI vahetI hoya pachI zaNagAramAM saMkoca zAne hoya? vaLI eNraporTanA AyojakonI daSTi to juo ! ahIM paNa sloTa-mazIno rAkhyAM che.

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dhUtanagara lAsa vegAsa 227 koInI ramavAnI IcchA adhUrI rahI gaI hoya to vimAna pakaDatAM pahelAM te pUrI karI zake. eno jIva avagate na jAya ! phlAITano TAIma thayo eTale ame vimAnamAM beThAM. phlAITamAM jalapAna karyA pachI zikAgo sudhInA Akhe raste ame mahattvanuM je kArya karyuM te nidrAdevInI ArAdhanAnuM ja hatuM. A kAryanA yazabhAgI amArI jema bIjA paNa ghaNA badhA hatA. zikAgo AvatAM ghaNAMne uThADavA paDyAM, eNra-hosTese jaNAvyuM ke lAsa vegAsathI savAranAM UpaDatI phlAITomAM ghaNAMkharAM pravAsIo UMghatAM ja hoya che. zikAgo UtarI amArA mukAme ame pahoMcI gayAM. eka vibhinna vAtAvaraNamAMthI ame pAchAM amArA rojiMdA vAtAvaraNamAM parovAI gayAM.

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lU legUna ane viDeya TApu igleMDanI uttare AvelA AIsalenDanI rAjadhAnI rakSAvika(Reykjavik)mAM amArI hoTela leIphara AIrikasana(Leifur Eiriksson)mAM UtarI menejarane sauthI pahelI phariyAda ame e karI ke pIvAnuM pANI ATaluM badhuM gaMdhAtuM kema che ? menejare kahyuM, "AkhA AIsalenDamAM tamane pIvAnuM pANI AvuM gaMdhAtuM ja maLaze.' AvA gaMdA gaMdhAtA pANIthI to peTa bagaDe." "nahi bagaDe. pANI gaMdhAya che, paNa gaMduM nathI." eTale ?' eTale ke A pANI philTara plAnTamAM zuddha thaIne ja Ave che. vAsa zakya teTalI ochI karAya che, to paNa emAM gaMdhaka(sulphur)nI vAsa to rahevAnI ja. AIsalenDa e TharI gayelA javALAmukhIono deza che. eTale jyAMthI tame pANI kADho tyAMthI gaMdhakavALuM pANI ja nIkaLaze.' "eTale tamAre tyAM gaMdhaka vagaranuM pANI maLatuM ja nathI ?' 'nA. amAruM potAnuM pANI to gaMdhakavALuM ja che. have bahArathI 'minarala vaoNTaranI bATalIo maMgAvavAmAM Ave che. paNa te to keTalI badhI modhI paDe ? ahIMnA sAmAnya mANasane e na paravaDe. amArA loko to AIsalenDamAM vasavATa thayo tyArathI, saikAothI A ja pANI pItA AvyA che. sAduM pANI amane na bhAve. amAruM pANI Arogya mATe paNa sAruM che. keTalAka lokone salpharanI elarjI hoya che, paNa AIsalenDanA lokone salpharanI elarjI kyAreya thatI nathI. maeNnejaranA khulAsAthI navI vAta jANavA maLI. gaMdhakavALuM pANI pIvA sivAya chUTako nahoto, Aste Aste e pIvAnuM amane phAvI gayuM. bhArata, raziyA, cIna, koriyA, jApAna, nyUjhIlenDa, AphrikA vageremAM, vizeSata: DuMgarALa pradezomAM garama pANInA jharA (Hot Spring) che. keTaleka sthaLe snAna mATe tyAM kuMDa paNa banAvavAmAM AvyA che. kyAMka pAIpa vATe e pANI dUra laI jaI Arogya mATe snAnAgAra banAvavAmAM AvyA che. jApAnamAM kinugAvA, koDogo, beDu vagere sthaLe to moTI moTI hoTelomAM vizALa, AkarSaka, vyavasthita snAnAgAra, taraNahoja bAMdhavAmAM AvyA che. 228

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blU legUna ane viDeya TApu 229 AisalaeNnDamAM garama pANInA kudaratI phuvArA ghaNe sthaLe che. (ene teo geyasiraGeysir kahe che jenA parathI 'gijhara' zabda Avyo che.) khArA pANInA bAMdhelA taraNahoja paNa tyAM ghaNA che. chellAM keTalAMka varSothI teoe gaMdhakavALA garama pANInuM jaLAzaya khullAmAM bAMdhyuM che, jemAM plAnTa dvArA pANI bharAya che ane svaccha thAya che, enuM nAma rAkhyuM che Blue Lagoon. Lagoon eTale taLAva, jaLAzaya. pANInA raMgane anusarI evuM nAma rAkhyuM che. ApaNe ene 'bhUrA taLAva' athavA 'nIlasara' tarIke oLakhI zakIe. bIje divase savAre blU legUna ane viDeya (Videy) TApunA pravAsanuM Ayojana karatI eka TUrisTa kaMpanImAM ame amArAM nAma noMdhAvI dIdhAM. samaya hato eTale ame hoTela parathI page cAlIne jaI zakAya eTale cheTe AveluM holagrimsa kiA (Hallgrimskiikja) carca jovA cAlyA. amArI hoTelanuM nAma 'leiphra Airisana' hatuM ane carcanI AgaLanA cogAnamAM AisalaeNnDIya mahApuruSa leiphura AiriksananuM pUtaLuM dUrathI paNa dekhAya e rIte eTalA UMcA kalAtmaka zilAsthAna para goThavavAmAM AvyuM che. AisalaeNnDanA aitihAsika netAomAM AIriksananuM nAma prathama Ave. te Airika dha reDano putra hato ane mahAna sAhasika zodhasaphrI hato. I.sa. 1000 varSanI AsapAsa te dariyAI zodhasaphare nIkaLyo tyAre vAvAjhoDAne kAraNe tenA vahANanI dizA badalAI jatAM te vahANa ghasaDAIne amerikAnA pUrva kinAre nyUphAunDalaeNnDa ane varjiniyA vacce pahoMcI gayuM hatuM. tyAMthI leiphura grInalaeNnDa thai AisalaeNnDa pAcho pharyo hato. A rIte amerikAnI dharatI para prathama paga mUkanAra te kolaMbasa nahi paNa leiphura AIrikasana hato. jema kolaMbasa amerikA javA nahoto nIkaLyo paNa ajANatAM ja tyAM pahoMcI gayo hato tema leikuranuM paNa thayuM hatuM. spenanA kinArethI kolaMbase eTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAM jeTaluM aMtara kApyuM hatuM tenA karatAM AisalaeNnDanA kinArAthI amerikAnuM aMtara ghaNuM ochuM che. leikurane jeTalI khyAti maLavI joIe eTalI alabatta maLI nathI. joke e to amerikAnI dharatI para paga mUkIne tarata ja pAcho AvI gayo hato. Ama chatAM AisalaeNnDanI prajAnA haiyAmAM potAnA netA Airisana mATe bahu AdarabhAva hoya e svAbhAvika che. AirisananuM A pUtaLuM amerikAe karAvI ApyuM che e paNa AdAnapradAnano eka suMdara saMketa che. holagrimsa-kimAM carca eTaluM uttuMga che ke rekayAvikamAM game tyAM hoIe tyAMthI e dekhAya. rekyAvikamAM raheNAkanAM ghaNAMkharAM gharo lAkaDAnAM, beThA ghATanAM nAnAM nAnAM, paNa chAparAM ane dIvAlonA raMgo bhAtabhAtanA. lokono vividha raMgo mATeno zokha chUpo na rahe. ame carcamAM dAkhala thayA. vastInA pramANamAM devaLa ghaNuM moTuM che eTale hAjarI pAMkhI lAge. vastuta: devaLanuM bAMdhakAma mAtra dharmasthaLa tarIke nathI thayuM. sthApatyakalAnI daSTie eka vilakSaNa AkRti tarIke, rekayAvikanI oLakha tarIke enuM bAMdhakAma thayuM che. eno AkAra UbhA raoNkeTa jevo che. e nIcethI pahoLuM nathI eTale tADa ke TAvara jevuM

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200 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana lAge. A totiMga AkRtine advitIya banAvavA mATe ene viziSTa ghATa ApavAmAM Avyo che. devaLanI sAthe paryaTaka kendra banAvavAnA AzayathI enA zikharanA vibhAgamAM bAhya prAkRtika darzana mATe pAradarzaka kAcajaDita vartuLAkAra gaeNlerI karavAmAM AvI che. liphTamAM ame e gaeNlerImAM pahoMcyAM. cAre bAjunuM dUra dUra sudhInuM dazya raLiyAmaNuM lAgatuM hatuM. amArA sivAya bIjA koI pravAsInI avarajavara nahotI. eTale tyAM ekAMtamAM besIne ame amArI nitya prArthanA karI ane bhaktAmara stotra mAlakauMsa rAgamAM ucca svare lalakAryuM. samaya thayo eTale ame hoTela para pAchAM pharyAM. amane teDavA basa AvI pahocatAM ame blU legUna tarapha javA UpaDyAM. basamAM pAMtrIseka pravAsIomAM bhAratIya ame cAra jaNa hatAM. huM, mArAM patnI, mArA mitra abhayabhAI ane emanAM patnI maMgaLAbahena. havAmAna sarasa hatuM, taDako nIkaLyo hato. lagabhaga cAlIsa kilomITaranuM aMtara kApI ame blU legUna AvI pahoMcyAM. emAM dAkhala thavA mATe amArAM badhAMnI TikiTa levAI. A mAnavasarjita vAdaLI raMganA taLAvanuM naisargika vAtAvaraNa banAvavA kinAre retI pAtharavAmAM AvI che. bAjumAM ja pANI mATeno plAnTa che. amArAmAMthI keTalAka pravAsIonI pANImAM paDavAnI icchA nahotI. jemane nahAvuM na hoya temane mATe bahAra besIne jovAnI sagavaDa hatI. meM ane abhayabhAIe pANImAM jhaMpalAvyuM. pANImAMthI dhumADAnA goTA nIkaLatA hatA. kinArA pAse kamara sudhInuM chIcharuM pANI hatuM. te ochuM garama hatuM. jema AgaLa jaIe tema vadhAre garama lAge. jenAthI sahana thAya te UMDA pANImAM jAya. paNa evA to koIka ja hatA. gaMdhakavALA garama pANImAM taravAnI majhA na Ave. zarIre zeka levAnuM ja sAruM lAge. vaLI AvA garama pANImAM jhAjho vakhata rahevAthI cakkara Ave. blU legUnamAM snAna karI, baporanuM bhojana laI ame UpaDyAM viDeya TApu para javA mATe. amArI basa baMdara tarapha cAlatI hatI. basanI bArImAMthI bahAra najara karatAM mahesUbanAM cosalAM jevI, kANAMvALI kALI mATInA sapATa vistAramAM rastAnI baMne bAju lAkaDAnAM pATiyAM vaDe UMcA kaTheDA karavAmAM AvyA hatA. AvA kaTheDA karavAnuM zuM prayojana haze ? mane svAbhAvikata: jijJAsA thaI. meM gAiDane pUchyuM, 'ahIM koI pula nathI ke AjubAju koI khADA nathI. eTale vAhana khADAmAM paDI javAno koI bhaya nathI. to pachI thoDe thoDe aMtare AvA UMcA kaTheDA karavAnI jarUra zI ?' gAiDe kahyuM, 'atyAre unALAmAM kaTheDAnI koI jarUra nathI. atyAre to e mAtra zobhAnA ane binajarUrI lAge emAM navAI nathI. paNa ziyALAmAM jyAre cAre bAju barapha paDyo hoya ane badhuM samathaLa thaI gayuM hoya tyAre vAhana calAvanArane baraphamAM pUrA na daTAI gayelA A UMcA kaTheDA rasto kaI bAju jAya che, kyAM vaLAMka le che e barAbara batAve. vAhana calAvatAM eka DigrIno pharaka paDe topaNa kyAMne badale kyAM pahoMcI javAya. A kaTheDA tyAre sAco rasto batAve che.'

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bU legUna ane viDeya TApu 231 pachI gAIDe hasatAM hasatAM kahyuM, 'tame jANo cho ke A kaTheDAne ame ahIM majAkamAM zuM kahIe chIe ?' 'nA.' ame ene pAdarI (dharmaguru) tarIke oLakhIe chIe. teo ApaNane sAco rasto batAve che. paNa teo pote tyAM jatA nathI.' gAIDanI majAka sAMbhaLI ame hasI paDyAM. amane thayuM ke saMsAramAM dharmaguruo mATe badhuM ja kaMIka kaTAkSavacana hoya che ! - baMdara para AvI ame badhAM boTamAM beThAM. samudranA taraMgita jaLamAM amArI boTa gati karavA lAgI. ame AsapAsanAM dazyo nihALavAmAM ane vAto karavAmAM magna hatAM, tyAM gAIDe kahyuM, 'have tamane eka nAnakaDo TApu jovA maLaze. ene ame paphina (Puffin) TApu kahIe chIe.' boTa paphina TApu pAse AvI pahoMcI. boTamAM beThAM beThAM ja amAre e nihALavAno hato. A TApunuM mULa nAma to che laMDeya (Lundey), paNa enuM nAma paDI gayuM che 'paphina TApu. lokoe yogya rIte ja enuM A nAma pADyuM che. A TApu para hajAro (lAkho kahIe to paNa sAcuM paDe) paphina pakSIo UDAUDa kare che. pakSInI jAta eTale UDyA vagara rahI na zake. enuM astitva tarata jAhera thaI jAya, TApu para koI vRkSo nathI. paNa ahIMnA ThaMDA pradezanAM pakSIone vRkSo nahi paNa bhekhaDo, baraphanI zilAo joIe. AIsalenDamAM je vividha prakAranAM pakSIo che emAMnuM eka te samudrakinAre rahetuM, sthaLAMtara karatuM pakSI paphina che. te vilakSaNa prakAranuM che. te batakane maLatuM Ave che, paNa bataka nathI. tenI garadana TUMkI che. lokoe Puff parathI enuM nAma paphina pADyuM che. Puff eTale moDhe phulAvavuM, dama levo ItyAdi. (bIDI-sigareTa pInAra mATe paNa Puff zabda vaparAya che.) A pakSInuM moDhuM phalAveluM dekhAya che. moDhAnA pramANamAM enI trikoNAkAra raMgaberaMgI lITIovALI cAMca ghaNI moTI dekhAya che. enA zarIranA uparanA aDadhA bhAgano raMga kALo che ane nIcenA bhAgano raMga zveta che. paphina pakSIo A Akho TApu khIcokhIca rokI le che. bahu dUrathI to jANe himAcchAdita TApu hoya evuM lAge. thoDI thoDI vAre seMkaDo paphinanuM moTuM ToLuM UDe ane dUra sudhI cakkara lagAvI pAchuM Ave. vaLI jyAre seMkaDo paphina samudramAM hArabaMdha beThAM hoya tyAre pANImAM jANe nAnI pALI bAMdhI hoya ema lAge. paphinanI eka khAsiyata e che ke pANImAM beThA pachI pAMca paMdara phUTa Aghe javuM hoya to eTalA mATe UDe nahi, paraMtu potAnI beya pAMkhathI halesAM mAratuM AgaLa vadhe. te vakhate pANImAM enAM halesAMnA ApaNane lisoTA dekhAya. AIsalenDanA A bAjunA ATalA moTA vistAramAMthI paphina pakSIoe A eka TApu ja pasaMda karyo che. anyatra rAtavAso rokAtAM nathI. A TApu para dara varSe anukULa RtumAM hajAro baccAMno janma thAya che. e mATe paphino A TApu para Ave che. upasina TApu' eTale paphina pakSIo mATenuM jANe ke jAhera prasUtigRha!

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232 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana A TApu pAsethI AgaLa vadhatI amArI boTa keTalIka vAra pachI viDeya (videy) TApu pAse AvI pahoMcI. A eka laMbagoLa mAchalInA AkAra jevo zAMta raLiyAmaNo TApu che. boTamAMthI UtarI page cAlI TApu para TahelavAnuM hatuM. ahIM khAsa jovAnuM te enuM jUnuM devaLa che. devaLamAM bIjI kazI viziSTatA ke navInatA nathI. enI aitihAsiktA ja mahattvanI che. AIsalenDamAM reDyAvikamAM vasavATa cAlu thayo e pahelAM, samudramAM AvelA enA A TApu para vasavATa zarU thayo hato. saikAo pUrve norve, svIDana, DenmArka, briTananA zodhasarIo, khalAsIo saDha ane halesAM vaDe vahANone A bAju laI AvatA haze tyAre thAkelA teo A TApu joIne hAzakAra anubhavatA haze ane tyAM ja dhAmA nAkhatA haze. IsavIsananA dasamA saikAmAM A TApu para vasavATa haze ema purAtattvavidoe khodakAma karIne maLelA avazeSo parathI jaNAvyuM che. alabatta, ahIM je devaLa che te I.sa. 1774mAM bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM che. basothI vadhu varSanuM jUnuM e nAnakaDuM devaLa aDhAra phUTa pahoLuM ane cAlIsa phUTa lAMbuM che. haju evI ne evI ja hAlatamAM ene sAcavI rAkhavAmAM AvyuM che. A devaLamAM ke A TApu para kaMI paNa pheraphAra karavA sAme lokono sakhata virodha rahyA karyo che. marAmata ke raMgarogAna bhale thAya, paNa navuM bAMdhakAma na thAya. ghaNAM varSo pahelAM ahIM eka makAna bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM to lokoe eno ghaNo virodha karyo. chevaTe evo eka ukela kADhavAmAM Avyo ke makAna bhale toDI pADavAmAM na Ave, paNa enA chAparA para ziyALAno barapha ogaLyA pachI dara varSe ghAsa vAvavAmAM Ave ke jethI makAna bahu najare na Ave. TApu para laTAra mArI ame badhAM TharAvelA samaye devaLamAM ekatra thayAM. enuM vAtAvaraNa pavitra ane zAntipreraka hatuM. eka pAdarI AvyA. emaNe viDeya TApuno itihAsa kahyo ane vizvazAnita mATe prArthanA karI. amArA sivAya bAkInA pravAsIo khristI hatA. pAdarIe jaNAvyuM ke amArAmAMthI koIne kaMI kahevuM hoya to kahI zake che. koI taiyAra na thayuM. chevaTe meM maMca para jaIne kahyuM ke ame bhAratathI ATale dUra ahIM AvyAM chIe. ame zAtinI ane vizvakalyANanI zubhecchAno saMdezo lAvyA chIe. ame jaina chIe ane ahiMsAmAM mAnIe chIe. vizvazAMti ane vizvakalyANa mATe amArAmAM navakAramaMtranI prArthanA karAya che. tamArI saMmati hoya to eno pATha huM karuM ! badhAnI saharSa saMmati maLI. ucca svare meM traNa vAra navakAramaMtra lalakAryo. chevaTe zAntiH'nA nAdathI vAtAvaraNa guMjavA lAgyuM. saune eka sarasa anubhava thayo. pAdarIe amAro AbhAra mAnyo ane jaina dharma mATe jijJAsA darzAvI. sAMja DhaLatAM boTa baMdare pAchI AvI. basa DrAIvare saune potapotAnI hoTela para utAryA. amAro divasa dhanya - saphaLa thaI gayo.

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36 yosemiTI amerikAmAM kharekhara jovA jevA je keTalAka ramya naisargika pradezo gaNAya che temAM yosemiTI (YOSEMITE)nuM sthAna mahattvanuM che. amerikAnA pazcima vibhAgamAM AvelA e pradezanA prAkRtika parivezane sAcavavA mATe ene 'naeNzanala pArka' tarIke jAhera karavAmAM Avyo che. himAcchAdita zikharo, himanadI (gleziyara), moTA moTA ghodha, nAnAMmoTAM sarovaro, hajAra varSa jUnAM vRkSo, vividha prakAranAM pazupakSIo, phaLadrupa khINapradeza, anukULa AbohavA A badhuM eka ja sthaLe jovA maLe evo pradeza te yosemiTI. tyAM sAmasAme parvatanAM zikharo che ane vacce vizALa hariyALI khINa che. tyAM 'AhavAhanIcI' nAmanA reDa inDiyana AdivAsIonA vArasadAro haju paNa vase che. sAnphrAnsisko pAsenA kupariTano zaherathI ame parivAranA sabhyo traNeka divasa mATe yosemiTI javA nIkaLyA hatA. doDhaso mAIla dUra, yosemiTInI najIka AvelA gAma mAriposA (MARIPOSA)mAM 'kanpharTa ina' nAmanI hoTelamAM amAruM UtaravAnuM goThavAyuM hatuM. amerikA jevA dhanADhya dezamAM vizALa rastAo para moTI moTI moTaragADIo niraMtara pUrapATa doDatI rahe che, paNa kayAreka kaMIka khoTakAya to so-baso gADInI hAra ghaDIkamAM thaI jAya. tyAre becAra kalAka bagaDI paNa jAya. amArA hAive para koI akasmAta thayo nahoto, paNa eka sthaLe thoDuM samArakAma cAlatuM hovAthI gADIonI cAra lAinamAMthI be lAina karI nAkhavAmAM AvI hatI. eTale dhAryA karatAM traNa kalAka mAriposA ame moDA pahoMcyA. joke amAre to bhojana karIne sUI ja javAnuM hatuM eTale vilaMbathI vAMdho Avyo nahi. paraMtu AvA anapekSita vilaMbathI kayAreka goThavAyelo kAryakrama bagaDI paNa jAya. bIje divase savAre ame yosemiTI javA nIkaLyA. Azare betAlIsa mAIlano rasto DuMgarALa pradezamAMthI pasAra thAya che. bAjumAM khaLakhaLa vahetI maraseda (MERCED) nadInAM subhaga darzana, kayAreka rastAnI jamaNI bAju to kyAreka DAbI bAju satata thatAM rahe che. AsapAsa zaMku AkAranAM (Coniferous) lIlAMchama vRkSo vAtAvaraNanI zItalatAmAM ane ramyatAmAM AhlAdaka umero karatAM hatAM. maraseda nadI himAlayanI maMdAkinI ane alakanaMdAnI yAda apAvatI hatI. DuMgaranI dhAra para pasAra thato rasto eka vizALa maidAnI ilAkAmAM amane laI ra3

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234 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana gayo. e yosemiTI khINano vistAra hato. traNa bAju UMcA parvatonI vacce, aneka vizALa uttuMga vRkSothI chavAyelo khINavistAra mana harI le evo che. tyAM mAhitIkendra che, Adhunika bIjI sagavaDo che, chatAM ghaNI sagavaDo hetupUrvaka nathI karavAmAM AvI ke jethI pArkanuM asala kudaratI svarUpa jaLavAI rahe. e jALavavA mATe moTI jhuMbeza upADanAra ane yosemiTIne 'naeNzanala pArka' tarIke jAhera karAvI, zikAra, vRkSo kApavAM vagere para sarakAra dvArA pratibaMdha pharamAvavAmAM saphaLa thanAra te suprasiddha amerikana pravAsalekhaka ane ciMtaka jhona mUra (John Muir) hatA. jhona mUra amerikAnA prakRtivizArada, zodhasapharI ane parvatArohaka hatA. teo alAskA sahita uttara amerikAmAM, laeNTina amerikAmAM tathA anya pradezomAM ghaNuM rakhaDyA hatA. emaNe potAnA pravAsanA anubhavonAM keTalAMka pustako lakhyAM che jemAM `Thousand Mile walk in the Gulf` jANItuM che. temaNe dhaNI duniyA joI hatI, paNa 1868mAM teo yosemiTImAM AvyA tyAre teo enA naisargika vAtAvaraNathI atyaMta prabhAvita thaI gayA. teo yosemiTI pAchaLa gAMDA thaI gayA ema ja kahevAya. temaNe yosemiTIne ja potAnuM nivAsasthAna banAvI dIdhuM. 1914mAM 76 varSanI vaye teo avasAna pAmyA tyAM sudhI teo yosemiTImAM ja rahyA. yosemiTInA prAkRtika paryAvaraNane bacAvI levAmAM temano phALo sauthI moTo ane mahattvano hato. temane sAtha ApanAra gelana klArka paNa hatA. teo paNa traNa dAyakAthI adhika samaya A pradezamAM rahyA hatA. jhona mUra A pradezanAM potAnAM saMsmaraNo, avalokano, nodha vagere lakhatA rahyA hatA. e vAMcatAM ja pratIti thAya ke koI zAMtipriya, adhyAtmarasika kavino jIva teo hovA joIe. temaNe yosemiTIne 'prakRtinA bhavya maMdira' tarIke biradAveluM che. temaNe I.sa. 1871mAM amerikana ciMtaka imarsanane lakhyuM hatuM, ''yosemiTI e prakRti sAthe tAdAtmya sAdhavAnI eka adbhuta prayogazALA che. huM tamane yosemiTImAM eka mahinA mATe padhAravAnuM nimaMtraNa ApuM chuM. e mATe tamAre samaya ApavA sivAya bIjuM kaMI paNa kharca karavAnuM nahi rahe. samayanuM kharca paNa ahIM ochuM thaze kAraNa ke ghaNokharo vakhata tame anaMtatAmAM viharatA hazo.'' jhona mUra jevI vyakti imarsana jevA ciMtakane evI lAkSaNika rIte lakhe to e parathI yosemiTIno pradeza kevo haze enI ApaNane khAtarI thAya. alabatta, eka paryaTanakendra banavAne kAraNe yosemiTImAM lokonI avarajavara ghaNI badhI vadhI javAthI, jhona mUranA samayanuM vAtAvaraNa mukhya mArgo para rahyuM nathI topaNa e mArgothI thoDA Adhe ekAnta sthaLamAM thoDA divasa rahevA maLe to evA preraka anubhavo jarUra Aje paNa thAya. yosemiTI eTale prAcIna kALanA RSimunio pasaMda kare evuM eka suramya, suzAnA sAdhanAkSetra. keTalAka itihAsakAro kahe che tema dasa hajAra varSathI mAnavajAtinuM A eka

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yosemiTI 235 priya kSetra rahyA karyuM che. traNa hajAra varSa pUrve ahIM mAnavajAti vasatI hatI enAM nizcita pramANo maLe che. hAla A vistAramAM je AdivAsIo rahe che teonA hajAra-bAraso varSa pUrvenA vaDavAo AhavAhanIcI' tarIke oLakhAtA hatA. teoe potAnI bhASAmAM A khINane ApeluM nAma te AhavAhanI' che. eno artha thAya che khulluM moTuM. traNa bAju parvato ane vacce khINa jevo pradeza teone khullA moDhA jevo lAgato haze. eTale A pradezanuM nAma paDyuM "AhavAhanI'. ane "AhavAhanI'mAM rahetA loko te kahevAyA AhavAhanIcI'. A prajAnA vaMzajo Aje paNa tyAM vidyamAna che ane teo judA judA nAmathI oLakhAya che. amerikAnA pazcima vibhAgamAM A pradeza Avelo hovAthI pesiphika mahAsAgaranA kinAre AvelAM gAmo sAthe teono saMbaMdha vadhu rahyo che. "AhavAhanIcImAMthI vakhata jatAM 'mivoka', 'pAyute' tenAyA' vagere InDiyana prajAo UtarI AvI. keliphorniyAmAM ane bAjunA nevADA rAjyamAM chUTAchavAyA vistAromAM A AdivAsIo haju paNa jovA maLe che. yosemiTInA pradezamAM potAnuM zAnta jIvana jIvatA reDa inDiyana AdivAsIone mATe Apatti AvI paDI I.sa. 1848mAM. te samaye sierA nevADA vistAramAMthI sonuM maLI AvyuM. ethI aneka speniza sAhasiko sonuM meLavavA A pradezamAM dhasI AvyA. AdivAsIone parAyA lokonI potAnA pradezamAM ghUsaNakhorI gamI nahi. saMgharSa thayo. teoe be gorA mANasone mArI nAkhyA. ethI speniza loko sAvaceta banI gayA. gorAonA rakSaNa mATe ane A pradeza para varcasva jamAvavA mATe teoe eka lazkarI TukaDI taiyAra karI. mAriposAmAM sainikonuM vaDuM mathaka sthapAyuM. emanI beTeliyane krame krame AgaLa vadhI traNa varSamAM AkhI khINano kabajo laI lIdho. AhavAhanIcI lokone khINamAMthI hAMkI kADhavAmAM AvyA. teoe AhavAhanInuM nAma yosemiTI' rAkhyuM. pharI kanaDagata na thAya e mATe A yuddhane aMte AdivAsIo ane gorAo vacce evA sulehakarAra thayA ke ziyALAnI ThaMDImAM jyAre gorAo nIkaLI gayA hoya tyAre InDiyano tyAM jaI zake. yosemiTInA kSetramAM tyAra pachI relagADI AvI, rastAo banyA, hoTelo thaI. bahAranA lokonuM AvAgamana jema jema vadhatuM gayuM tema tema AhavAhanIcI loko AghA ne AghA khasatA gayA. temAM teonI tenAyA jAtinA nAyakanuM mRtyu thatAM teo veravikhera thatA gayA. ema karatAM ogaNIsamI sadInA uttarArdhamAM yosemiTI pradaza upara gorA lokonuM saMpUrNa varcasva jAmI gayuM. ame yosemiTInA khINavistAramAM judA judA dhodha jyAM paDe che tevA keTalAka mahattvanA dhodha nIcethI joyA. yosemiTI pArkanA vistAramAM 60 karatAM vadhu dhodha che.

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236 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana unALAmAM barapha ogaLatAM te vadhu moTA ane vegavALA bane che. yosemiTI eTale eka vizALa prapAtakSetra. ATalA nAnA kSetramAM ATalA badhA dhodha duniyAmAM bIje kyAMya nathI. ame je judA judA dhodha, pAse jaIne nihALyA temAMno eka moTo dhodha te yosemiTI dhodha' Azare ra4rapa phaTa UMco che. te uparathI pahelAM 1430 phUTa nIce paDe che. tyAM nAnuM taLAva bharAya che. e UbharAtAM te eka cheDethI 675 phUTa nIce paDe che. tyAM paNa pharI khAbociyuM bharAya che ane tyAMthI te 320 phUTa nIce paDe che. Ama traNa kaTake paDato A dhodha potAnI AgavI mudrA dhAraNa kare che. 620 phuTa UMcethI paDatA bIjA eka dhodhane navoDhAno ghUMghaTa' (BRIDALVEIL) kahe che, enuM svarUpa judA ja prakAranuM che. paDatI vakhate je jalasIkaro UDe che ene lIdhe enI AsapAsa dhummasa jevuM vAtAvaraNa sarjAyeluM rahe che. ethI dhodhanI spaSTa AkRti dekhAtI nathI. jANe navoDhAe ghUMghaTa na tANyo hoya ! trIjo eka moTo dhodha te nevADA dhodha', 594 phUTa UMcethI te paDe che. te kadamAM moTo che ane paDe che tyAre jANe vAdaLAnI garjanA thatI hoya evo avAja saMbhaLAya che. A badhA dhodha bahu najIkanajIkamAM AvelA che. dhodha joyA pachI amAro kAryakrama jaMgalamAM pharavAno hato. jaMgalamAM keTalAka kAcApAkA rastA banAvelA che, paNa tyAM potAnI moTarakAra laI javAnI chUTa nathI. pArka taraphathI khullI TraoNlImAM Aste Aste badhe pheravavAmAM Ave che ane sAthe teno paricaya paNa ApavAmAM Ave che. ame e pramANe DuMgarALa jamInamAM patharAyelA gADha vanamAM pharI AvyA. paraMtu A ja vAta vadhAre vigate samajavI hoya to nizcita sthaLa ane samaye bhomiyo (RANGER) ApaNane keDIe keDIe page cAlIne laI jAya che. ame bhomiyA sAthe paNa be kalAka . amAro bhomiyo prakRtivizArada ane prakRtipremI hato. e pAMtrIseka varSanI haze ! eno laMbagoLa, goro hasamukho cahero, kALA lAMbA vALa, koI koI zveta keza dharAvatI DhaLelI mUko, dhAtunI phremavALAM jUnI paddhatinAM cazmAM vagere sahita enI nirdoSa AkRti enA mAyALu svabhAvanI prathama darzane khAtarI karAvatI hatI. enI sAthe keDIe keDIe ame cAlyA. judA judA prakAranAM pha, pAma, siyA (SEQUOIA) vagere vRkSonI khAsiyata eNe amane samajAvI. vRkSanuM AyuSya keTaluM che te jANavAnI vaijJAnika paddhati namUnA sAthe batAvI. bhomiyAe kahyuM ke sikoyA vRkSa traNa hajAra varSathI vadhu jIvI zake che. A vRkSo jema jUnAM thatAM jAya tema enuM thaDa pahoLuM thatuM jAya che. A vRkSo vadhAre jIvI zake che kAraNa ke emAM rahelo Tenika eNsiDa jIvAta lAgavA deto nathI. e eNsiDane kAraNe vRkSa rAtA raMganuM thAya che. sikoyA vRkSa sIdhuM UMcuM thAya che. te 350 phUTa karatAM vadhu UMcuM thaI zake che. betraNa sikoyA aDoaDa UgI zake che. eka sikoyA vRkSamAMthI eka vizALa makAnanA pistAlIsa oraDA mATenuM lAkaDuM maLI rahe che. keTalAMka sikoyAmAM nIce bakhola thAya che.

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yosemiTI 230 eka TekarA para eka vRkSa batAvI eNe kahyuM, ''A vRkSane ame Teliskopa vRkSa kahIe chIe, kAraNa ke enuM nIcenuM bAkoruM TheTha vRkSanI Toca sudhI jAya che, tame nIce thaDamAM vacce UbhA rahI UMcI najara karo to thaDamAMthI tamane upara AkAza dekhAze. tamArAmAMthI koIne jovuM hoya to te joI zako cho.'' e jovA mATe ghaNA taiyAra thaI gayA, paNa bhomiyAe kahyuM, ''eTaluM dhyAna rAkhajo ke barAbara e ja vakhate koIka pakSI.uparathI carakaze to sIdhuM tamArA moDhA para paDaze. ahIM keTalIka vAra evI ghaTanA bane che.'' A sAMbhaLatAM ja ghaNAkharA AgaLa vadhyA nahi. ame keTalAka pravAsIo Teliskopa sikoyAmAMthI AkArAdarzana karI AvyA. eka nirALo anubhava thayo. bhomiyAe kahyuM ke ''A jaMgalamAM koI koI vRkSanAM thaDa eTalAM badhAM jADAM che ke varSo pahelAM koIkoImAM mANaso vaccethI pasAra thaI zake evAM moTAM bAkorAM karAyAM hatAM. vozabarna nAmanA be bhAIoe gaI sadImAM A vistAramAM 'vAvonA' nAmanI hoTela kharIdI hatI ane pravAsIone AkarSavA mATe eka moTA rAkSasI kadanA vRkSamAM moTarakAra pasAra thai zake eTalo moTo bugaddo banAvyo hato. e bugadAmAMthI pasAra thatI moTarakAramAM potAno phoTo paDAvavA ghaNA pravAsIo AvatA. phoTogrApharo, citrakAro, parvatArohako, zikArIo, sahelANIo ema ghaNA pravAsIo AvavA lAgatAM yosemiTI vistAra Adhunika thavA lAgyo. paNa jemsa mUranI caLavaLa pachI AvI ghaNI pravRttio baMdha paDI che.'' vaLI bhomiyAe kahyuM ke ''pazupakSIonA zikAra para paNa pratibaMdha Avyo eTale emanI vastI ghaTatI aTakI. A jaMgalamAM have aDhIsothI vadhu jaMgalI moTAM kALAM rIMcha che.'' '"paNa ApaNane to kyAMya dekhAtAM nathI.'' ''divase to teo saMtAIne rahe che. paNa rAtanA potAnA khorAka mATe nIkaLe che. mANasa mATeno khorAka temane eTalo badho bhAve che ke te meLavavA teo bhAre tophAna macAve che, Akramaka banI jAya che. ahIM pharavA AvanArA pravAsIo pAse ke jaMgalamAM taMbU tANIne rahenArA sAhasiko pAse khAvAnuM to hoya ja, e meLavavA rAtane vakhate rIMcho humalA kare che. gADIonA kAca toDIne khAI jAya che. sattAvALAo taraphathI Thera Thera posTara lagADelAM hovA chatAM rojeroja navA navA pravAsIo AvatA hovAthI ghaNAMnI saratacUka thaI jAya che. tamArA mAnyAmAM nahi Ave paNa e hakIkata che ke dara varSe sarerAza cArasothI vadhu gADInA kAca rIMcha dvArA aDadhI rAte tUTe che.'' bhomiyAno kAryakrama pUro thayo. eNe amane jaMgala, vRkSo, pakSIo vagere vize ghaNI mAhitI ApI. saikAo jUnAM, jADA rAtA thaDavALAM atizaya UMcAM vRkSonA vanamAM viharavAno anubhava koIka judI ja lAgaNI janmAvI gayo hato. samaya thayo hato eTale ame amArI gADImAM mAriposA pAchA AvI pahoMcyA.

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238 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana bIje divase savAre amAro kAryakrama gleziyara paoNInTa javAno hato. yosemiTI khINathI pacAsathI vadhu mAIlane te judo ja rasto hato. gleziyara poInTa eTale jyAM gleziyara che te jagyA nahi, paNa jyAMthI sAme gleziyara nihALI zakAya che te jagyA. vacce yosemiTInI moTI khINa AvelI che. gleziyara paoNInTa sAta hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe AveluM che. sAMkaDA raste ghATamAMthI pasAra thatI, upara caDatI amArI gADI paoNInTa pAse pahoMcI gaI. ahIMthI sAmenI parvatamALA joI zakAya che. khINanI dhAra para UbhA rahI jovA mATe judA judA sthaLe karelI vyavasthAmAM pravAsIonI bhIDa satata rahetI hatI. khINa ane parvatamALAnuM dazya bhavya hatuM. parvatamALAmAM keTalAMka zikhara himAcchAdita hatAM. tyAM sAtathI agiyAra hajAra phUTanI UMcAIvALAM paMdareka zikharo AvelAM che. emAM be zikharo atyaMta mazahura che. eka pUrNa ghuMmaTa(Full Dome)nA AkAranuM che ane bIjuM ardha ghuMmaTa(Half Bome)nA AkAranuM che. A ardha ghuMmaTanA AkAranuM zikhara atyaMta vilakSaNa zobhA dhAraNa kare che. bhUtakALamAM kAM to vIjaLI paDavAne kAraNe ke dharatIkaMpane kAraNe ke aMdarathI dabANa AvavAne kAraNe ke anya koI kAraNe ghumaTanA AkAranuM zikhara vaccethI aDadhuM tUTI gayuM che. paraMtu tUTavAne kAraNe ja e zikharanI zobhA vadhI che. savAranA ke sAMjanA rAtA sUryaprakAromAM jyAre e zikhara rAto raMga dhAraNa kare che tyAre to enI advitIya zobhA vRddhi pAme che. AvI lAkSaNika AkRti anyatra kyAMya jovA maLatI nathI. mATe to yosemiTInA sattAvAra pratIka tarIke A ardha ghuMmaTa(Half Dome)nI AkRti rAkhavAmAM AvI che. A sthaLethI sAme anya zikharomAM TopalI (Basket) AkAranuM zikhara, pratidhvani (Echo) zikhara, vAdaLAMne ArAma (CLOUD REST) levA mATenuM zikhara vagere zikharo jovA maLe che. taduparAMta yosemiTI dhodha, nevADA dhodha vagerenuM uparathI nIce sudhInuM umaMgabharyA utarANanuM dazya prasannatApreraka banI rahe che. yosemiTI khINanuM, pArkiMga vistAromAM UbhelI, uparathI ramakaDAM jevI lAgatI moTaragADIo sahitanuM vihaMgadarzana, nIce karatAM uparathI vadhu vistRta ane surekha banI rahe che. gleziyara paoNInTa na jaIe to yosemiTIno pUro khyAla na Ave. gleziyara paoNInTa tathA anya keTalAMka sthaLa joI ame pAchA mAriposAnA amArA mukAme AvyA. have trIje divase amAro kAryakrama TAyogA ghATa jovA javAno hato. tyAM javA mATe paNa hoTelathI soeka mAIlanuM aMtara kApavAnuM hatuM. nIcethI Azare dasa hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe pahoMcavAnuM hatuM. sAMkaDo, vaLAMko leto satata caDhANavALo mArga kApatAM vAra lAge ja, paNa tyAMnI nirmaLa, tAjhagIsabhara havA thAkane utArI de evI hatI. pAMceka hajAranI UMcAI pachI rastAnI baMne bAju koI koI sthaLe barapha dekhAvo cAlu thayo. amane jANavA maLyuM hatuM ke TAyogA ghATamAM rastA para jAmelo barapha haju gayA

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yosemiTI 239 aThavADiye ja khaseDavAmAM Avyo hato. rastAnI kinAra para eka-doDha phUTa jeTalI baraphanI kApelI dhAra dekhAtI hatI. barapha ogALavA rastA paranA barapha para nAkhelA mIThAne kAraNe dhoLA lisoTA rahI gayelA kyAMka kyAMka dekhAtA hatA. barapha jotAM ja nAcI UThelAM amArAM pautra-pautrI arcita-acirAe haTha lIdhI ke kayAMka jagyA maLe to gADI UbhI rAkhavI. teone baraphamAM ramavuM hatuM. ame paNa chokarAMono pakSa lIdho, paNa gADI calAvanAra patra amitAbhe kahyuM, "haju pAMtrIsa mAIla javAnuM bAkI che. AgaLa kevo rasto Avaze te khabara nathI. eka vakhata TAyoga ghATa pahoMcI jaIe. pachI pAchA pharatAM samayanI anukULatA pramANe pharI zakAze.' jema jema AgaLa ame vadhatA gayA tema tema baraphanA vadhu ane vadhu lalacAvanArAM nAnAM nAnAM medAno AvatAM gayAM. have to bALako uparAMta putravadhU surabhie paNa Agraha karyo ke kyAMka thobhI jaIe ane baraphamAM ramIe, paNa cakradhara gADI roke to ne ? alabatta, jema jema ame AgaLa vadhatA gayA tema tema vadhAre manohara medAno AvatAM gayAM. svaccha zveta baraphanAM A medAno vize enAthI ajANa vyakitane to jANe A mIThAnA agara hoya evuM dazya lAge athavA dhoLuM dhoLuM rU pAtharyuM hoya evuM lAge. ema karatAM ame TAyogA ghATa AvI pahoMcyA. pArkiMga vistAramAM gADI UbhI rahI. have kalAkano ArAma hato. ahIM baraphanAM vizALa medAno je maLyAM te pUrvenAM medAnone bhulAvI de evAM hatAM. baraphamAM cAlatAM sAcavavuM baha paDe. Dagale ne pagale lapasI paDavAnI dhAstI. poco poco barapha hAthamAM laI, mUThImAM goLo banAvI ekabIjAne te mAravAnI majhA anokhI che. goLo vAgatAM barapha tarata chUTo paDI jAya, eTale vAge kharuM, paNa nahi jevuM. A evuM sthaLa hatuM ke jyAM pautra-pautrI dAdAjIne paNa goLA mArI zake. alabatta, baraphamAM AvI ramata vadhAre vakhata ramavAthI AMgaLAM thIjI jAya ane pachIthI sakhata du:khavA lAge. ahIM dasa hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe havA saheja pAtaLI hatI. ATalI UMcAIe pahelI vAra AvanArane jo svAcya barAbara na hoya to cAlatAM thAka lAge. cakkara Ave ke becenI paNa lAge. pAtaLI havAthI phephasAM TavAI jAya pachI vAMdho na Ave. ame peTapUjA to gADImAM thoDI thoDI vAre karatA rahyA hatA, paraMtu have bhUkha lAgI hatI eTale eka sthaLe besI bhojanane paNa nyAya Apyo. paryAvaraNa sAcavavAnI dRSTithI ahIM koI resTorAM karavAmAM AvI nathI eTale sAthe lAvelo AhAra ja levAno hato. TAyogA ghATamAM ja keliphorniyA rAjyanI hada pUrI thAya che ane navADA rAjyanI hada zarU thAya che. e cekanAkuM vaTAvI ame nevADA rAjyamAM paNa thoDA mAIla sudhI AMTo mArI AvyA. e bAju eka nAnuM sarovara hatuM. e haju thIjeluM ja hatuM. eno thoDoka barapha sUryaprakAzamAM ogaLIne pANI thayo hato. gherA vAdaLI raMganA e pANImAM paNa

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240 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana chUTAchavAyA baraphanA TukaDA nihALI zakAtA hatA. sarovaranI pAchaLa pAIna, phara, sedAra vagerenAM UMcAM UMcAM vRkSoe dRzyane vadhu nayanaramya banAvyuM hatuM. kharekhara, TAyogA ghATanuM darzana amAre mATe eka apUrva darzana hatuM ! yosemiTImAM anyatra mANasonI ane ethIye vizeSa gADIonI jeTalI bhIDa jovA maLI teTalI TAyogA ghATamAM jovA na maLI. niraMtara gADIonA pravAhavALA rastA para aDadhA kalAkathI koI navI gADI AvI nahotI. lagabhaga traNeka vAge ame pAchA pharyA. thoDAka mAila gayAM hoIzuM tyAM amArI AgaLa cAlatI gADIonI gati maMda paDatI jaNAI. ghATanA sAMkaDA rastAmAM eka gADI ghImI cAle to pAchaLanI badhI gADIo dhImI paDI jAya. paNa pachI to AgaLanI gADIo UbhI rahI gaI, ame paNa UbhA rahyA ane pAchaLa AvatI gADIonI hAra paNa moTI thaI gaI. vAhanavyavahAra sthagita thaI gayo. vaLAMkavALA parvatIya rastA para dUra dUra dekhAya tyAM sudhI gADIo UbhelI hatI. keTalIka gADIonA pravAsIo gADImAMthI UtarIne rastA para TahelatA hatA e parathI lAgyuM ke gADIo jaladI cAlI zake ema nahi hoya. ame paNa gADImAMthI UtaryA. anya pravAsIo sAthe vAtacIta karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke vaLAMkavALA sAMkaDA rastA para be gADIo sAmasAmI bhaTakAtAM moTo akasmAta thayo che. TrAphika cAlu thatAM traNeka kalAka nIkaLI jaze. have pharajiyAta ArAma karavA sivAya chUTako nahoto. parvatanA sAMkaDA rastA para akasmAta thAya ane gADIonI hAra betraNa mAIla jeTalI thaI jAya to polIsanI gADI tyAM pahoMce kevI rIte ? paNa akasmAtanI jANa thatAM TrAphika polIsa helikaoNpTaramAM AvI pahoMcI. akasmAtamAM cAra mANasa ghAyala thayA hatA. baMne gADI calAvanArane gaMbhIra IjA thaI hatI. pahelA pherAmAM teone nIce haoNspiTalamAM laI javAyA ane bIjA pherAmAM bIjA bene. tyAra pachI bhAMgelI gADIone eka bAju khaseDIne eka gADI jaI zake eTalo rasto karavAmAM Avyo. baMne bAju vArApharatI thoDI thoDI gADIo choDavAmAM AvI. sAMja paDI gaI hatI ane ujAsa ocho thaI gayo hato. akasmAtanA sthaLa AgaLathI amArI gADI pasAra thaI. bhayaMkara akasmAta hato. gaMbhIra rIte ghavAyelA bacaze ke kema e vize zaMkA hatI. - dhAryA karatAM amane hoTela para pAchA pharatAM cAra kalAkano vilaMba thaI gayo. adyatana sAdhanovALo deza eTale samaya ocho bagaDyo. amane thayuM ke sAruM karyuM ke pahelAM TAyogA pahoMcyA. rastAmAM samaya bagADyo hota to yogA ghATa jovAno rahI jAta. vaLate divase yosemiTInA anubhavonI vAto karatAM karatAM ame kuparaTino pAchA pharyAM. yosemiTIno pravAsa amAre mATe eka yAdagAra pravAsa banI rahyo.

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37 sattara mAIlano sAgarakAMTho sAgarakAMTho nihALavA mATe zuM dAkhala-phI ApavI paDe ? hA, amerikAmAM sattara mAilano eka sAgarakAMTho che je nihALavo hoya to dAkhala-phI ApavI ja paDe che. evAM nANAM kharcavAnI jarUra zI ? kAraNa ke tyAM evuM kazuMka avanavuM jovA jevuM che. rojeroja ane zani-ravi to khAsa seMkaDo, hajAro mANaso e sAgarakAMTho jovA jAya che. tyAM AkhA divasanI ujANI paNa mANe che. aMgata mAlikInI e jAgIra che ane pravAsIo mATe tyAM evI sarasa suvidhA paNa che. amerikAmAM sAnphrAnsiskomAM ame hatAM tyAre thoDe dUra AvelAM be sthaLe javAnuM vicAryuM hatuM. eka te rahasyamaya sthaLa (Mystery Spot) ane bIjuM te sattara mAIlano sAgarakAMTho (17 MILE DRIVE). duniyAmAM amerikA eka evo tagaDo deza che ke jene be mahAsAgaranA lAMbA kinArAno lAbha maLyo che : pUrva bAju eNTalAnTika ane pazcima bAju pesiphika. rahasyamaya sthaLa jovA mATe ame pesiphikanA kinAre AvelA sAntAkrujha nAmanA zaheramAM gayA. sAntAkrujha nAma sAMbhaLatA ja muMbaInuM sAntAkrujha yAda Ave. 'sAntAkrujha' zabda spenaporTugalanI bhASAno che. sAntAkrujha eTale santano (Izu khristano) kraoNsa (vadhastaMbha). spena ane porTugalanA khristI sAhasika dharmazraddhALu zodhasapharIo IsavIsananA caudamA, paMdaramA, soLamA saikAmAM dariyAI mArge duniyAnA ghaNA pradezomAM ghUmI vaLyA ane jyAM jyAM potAnAM thANAM sthApyAM ane devaLa bAMdhyAM tyAM evAM keTalAMye sthaLone teoe 'sAntAkrujha' nAma ApyuM. spena-porTugala uparAMta brAjhila, ArjenTinA, cIlI, boliviyA, meksiko, peru, kyubA, keliphorniyA, AphrikA, philipAinsa, muMbai vageremAM sAntAkrujha AvelAM che. ame gharethI nIkaLI sAntAkrujha baMdare misTarI spaoNTa pahoMcyA. sAntAkrujhamAM DuMgara para A eka evI jagyA che ke jyAM mANasa potAnuM samatolapaNuM jALavI zakato nathI. gurutvAkarSaNano niyama tyAM kaMIka vAMko pravartato hoya ema lAge che. samatolapaNuM jALavavuM hoya to vAMkA UbhA rahevuM paDe. samAMtara jagyAe sAmasAme thoDe cheTe UbhelI be vyaktio ekabIjAne kadamAM UMcInIcI dekhAya che. nIcANamAM gabaDAvelo daDo dhImedhIme potAnI meLe pAcho UMco Ave che. ahIM lAkaDAnI eka DhaLatI kuTira bAMdhI rA

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242 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana che ke jethI mANasa pakaDIne vAMko Ubho rahI zake. pakaDyA vagara vadhAre vAra UbhA rahevAthI koIne cakkara paNa Ave che. vaijJAniko haju sudhI enuM kAraNa zodhI zakayA nathI. misTarI spaoNTano anubhava karI bIje divase ame sattara mAIlano sAgarakAMTho nihALavA UpaDyA. javA-AvavAnA kalAko sahita AkhA divasano kAryakrama hato eTale ame bhAthuM sAthe bAMdhI lIdhuM hatuM. rAjamArga choDI ame monTere dvIpakalpanI dizA pakaDI. daravAje pahoMcI pravezazulka ApI dAkhala thatAM amane sacitra nakazo ApavAmAM Avyo. emAM jovA jevAM ekavIsa kendro batAvavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. pAMca hajAra jeTalA ekaramAM patharAyelI A sAgarataTIya jAgIramAM koIne rAta rokAvuM hoya to hoTela, resTorAMnI vyavasthA che. ahIM ramatagamato tathA golpha mATe klaba che. naukAdaLa mATe tAlImakendra che. moMghI lAkSaNika vastuonI kharIdInA zokhIna sahelANIo mATe sTora che. chatrI AkAranAM nIcAM ghaTAdAra sAyaprasanAM vRkSonuM zItala upavana che. ahIM samudrakinAro mukhyatve khaDakALa che. eka sthaLe retIno sAMkaDo taTa che. tyAM kinAre moTA moTA goLa patharAo che. samudranAM mojAMonA aphaLAvAthI khaDakanA tUTelA patharAo ghasAIghasAIne goLa banI gayA che. A patharALa sAgarataTa parathI ja A jAgIranI mAlika kaMpanIe potAnuM nAma PEBBLE BEACH COMPANY rAkhyuM che. - sattara mAIla pharavuM hoya to te gADImAM ja thaI zake. e mATe rastAo sarasa che. dareka kendra pAse pArkiMganI vyavasthA che. alabatta, A dhanADhya dezamAM, pAMcadasa miniTa jovA mATe UtaravuM hoya to pArkiMga meLavavA mATe dasapaMdara miniTa kyAreka khoTI thavuM paDe, paraMtu sAruM e hatuM ke badhAM darzanIya kendro kramAnusAra jovAnuM baMdhana nahotuM. anukULatA pramANe AgaLapAchaLa joI zakAya. A sAgarakAMThe jovA jevuM eka dRzya te pANImAM thoDe Adhe Avelo TApu-DuMgara che. enA para koI vRkSa nathI. kevaLa paththarano ardha laMba-vartuLAkAra e DuMgara che. eno raMga kudaratI nathI, paNa sIla, pakSIo ane dariyAI siMha (Sea lion)nA vasavATathI, AhAra tathA zaucAdi kriyAothI dUdhiyA jevo thaI gayo che. e raMgane lIdhe enuM dRzya evuM vilakSaNa lAge che ke jo smRtimAM saMgharI rAkhyuM hoya to game te citra ke phoTAmAM jotAM ja kahI zakIe ke A monTere dvIpakalpanA samudrano dvIpa che. DuMgara upara sIla vagerenI avarajavara, cIsAcIsa, vAraMvAra teonI pANImAM DUbakI, upara UDatAM gala pakSIo vagere nihALavAmAM samaya kayAM sarI jAya che tenI khabara paDatI nathI. dUrabIna hoya to ora AnaMda Ave paNa dUrabIna vagara pAse ja haratAMpharatAM dariyAI siMha, sIla vagerene jovAM hoya to bIjA eka kinArA pAse javuM paDe. enI retI svaccha ane zveta

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sattara mAIlano sAgarakAMTho 240 che. taTa para javAnI manAI che. bAMdhelI pALI pAsethI avalokana karI zakAya. dara varSe anukULa RtumAM keTalAMye sIla, dariyAI siMha potAnAM baccAMne ucheravA mATe A taTa para Ave che. baccAM moTAM thatAM badhAM ja pAchAM sAgaramAM dUra cAlyA jAya che. A sAgarakAMThAnuM jovA jevuM bIjuM eka sthaLa te "paoNInTa jo' (Point Joe) che. enI lAkSaNikatA e che sAgaranAM mojAMo sAmasAmI be bAjuthI AvI ekabIjA sAthe jorathI athaDAya che. emanA satata yuddhano ghughavATa vAtAvaraNane bharI de che. mojAMo nIce moTA moTA aNiyALA khaDako che. ethI A jagyA chetarAmaNI banelI che. jUnA vakhatamAM dariyAmAMthI AvatAM ajANyAM vahANone ema lAgatuM ke vahANa lAMgaravA mATe A baMdara jevI jagyA bahu anukULa che. paraMtu pAse AvatAM, ghUghavatAM mojAMomAM samatolapaNuM rahe nahi, vahANa khaDaka sAthe jorathI bhaTakAI paDe, khalAsIo pANImAM UchaLI paDe, vahANa tUTe ane keTalAye DUbI jAya. jUnA vakhatamAM ahIM AvI jaLasamAdhinI ghaNI ghaTanAo banI che. A sAgarakAMThAne oLakhavA mATenuM bIjuM eka lAkSaNika dazya te eka UMcA khaDaka para UgeluM chatrI AkAranuM eka mAtra sAyaprasa vRkSa che. AvA khaDaka para e ekaluMaTUluM UgyuM haze kevI rIte ane TakI rahyuM che zAthI e vize saune kutUhala thAya evuM che. enuM dazya eTaluM ramaNIya ane nirALuM che ke keTalAye citrakAro ahIM besIne enuM citra dore che. (enA citra ke phoTAno vyAvasAyika upayoga karavA mATe kaMpanIe manAI pharamAvelI che.) A khaDaka pAse ja sAyaprasanAM hajAro vRkSonuM gADha upavana che. A upavanane sArI rIte sAcavavAmAM AvyuM che. sAyaprasanAM vRkSo najIka najIka UgI zake che. ethI chAMyo ane zItalatA evAM preraka bane che ke kayAMka ekAMtamAM dhyAna dharavA mATe besI javAnuM mana thAya. A upavanamAMthI mAtra gADImAM pasAra thatAM paNa koI judI ja anubhUti thAya che. ame bIjA eka kinAre gayA. enuM nAma "speniza be' rAkhavAmAM AvyuM che. amerikAnA A pazcima kinAre prathama speniza lokoe potAno pagadaMDo jamAvelo. aDhAramA zatakanA AraMbha sudhI ahIM sthAnika 'inDiyana' loko vasatA hatA. I.sa. 1796mAM spenathI nIkaLelo zodhasapharI juAna poTolA vahANamAM potAnA sAthIdAro sAthe ahIM AvI pahoMcyo hato. ahIM eNe potAnI chAvaNI sthApI ane sthAnika vastIne khaseDI potAno kabajo jamAvyo. vakhata jatAM A vizALa jagyA vecAI ane A jAgIranI mAlikI badalAtI gaI. chelle pebala bIca kaMpanIe A jagyA kharIdI ane tyAM hoTela banAvI ane enuM nAma rAkhyuM Dela monTe. AraMbhamAM to A jagyA phakta hoTelamAM UtaratA sahelANIo mATe ja maryAdita hatI, paNa I.sa. 1880mAM A jAgIra

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244 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana jAhera janatA mATe dAkhala phI sAthe khullI mUkavAmAM AvI. tyAre hoTela taraphathI kAcA rastA para ghoDAgADIomAM pravAsIone pheravavAmAM AvatA. A sthaLanI paryaTanakendra tarIke lokapriyatA vadhatAM pAkA rastAo thayA ane bIjI ghaNI suvidhAo thaI. kaMpanI mATe kamANInuM eka moTuM sAdhana thayuM. judAM judAM sthaLomAM pharIne amArA paga have thAkyA hatA ne peTanI ugharANI cAlu thaI hatI. sAMja paDavA AvI hatI. eka retALa mana patharALa kinAre jyAM pravAsIone mATe potAnA gharanuM lAveluM khAvA mATe khullAmAM Dabala-bAMkaDA rAkhavAmAM AvyA hatA tyAM ame pahoMcyA. pahelAM chIcharA pANImAM ame paga pakhALI AvyA. pachI jaladhijalanI taraMgalIlA avalokatAM ame bAMkaDA para goThavAyA. AkAza svaccha hatuM. joke pakSIvihoNuM hovAthI te aDavuM lAgatuM hatuM, paNa moTarakAramAMthI amArA khAvAnA DabbA Tebala para goThavAyA ke thoDI kSaNomAM ja koNa jANe kyAMthI pakSIo AvavA lAgyAM. nAnI kAbara jevAM kALAM pakSIo paNa hatAM ane zveta gala pakSIo paNa hatAM. dariyAkinArAnI khisakolIo AvI ane ethI saheja moTA kada ane AkAranAM rUMka (SKUNK) paNa AvyAM. amArA pautra-pautrI arcita-acirAne to khAvA karatAM khavarAvavAmAM ja vadhu AnaMda paDyo. biskiTa, pAuM gAMThiyA vagereno TukaDo teo UMce uchALe ane jamIna para paDatAM pahelAM koIka pakSIe ene cAMcamAM jhaDapI lIdho hoya. amAro bhojanano kAryakrama ramatotsava banI gayo. jevA DabbAo khAlI thayA ane gADImAM pAchA mUkavAmAM AvyA eTalI vAramAM to pakSIo ane nAnAM prANIo kyAM jatAM rahyAM tenI khabara paNa na paDI. amane thayuM ke "vAha! A lokone paNa potAnA samayanI keTalI badhI kiMmata hoya che !' sAgarataTa choDI ame rastA para AvyA. thoDe dUra eka borDa hatuM. thayuM ke zI sUcanA lakhI che te joIe to kharA ! pAse jaIne vAMcyuM to temAM lakhyuM hatuM ke "maherabAnI karIne ahIMnAM pazupakSIone tamAro khorAka khavaDAvazo nahi. e khAvAthI teone enI Adata paDI jAya che, temanI tabiyata bagaDe che ane mAMdA paDI jaladI mRtyu pAme che." amane dvidhA thaI. ApaNe khavaDAvyuM te sAruM karyuM ke khoTuM ? prAcIna kALathI mAnavajAta pazupakSIone potAnA mATeno khorAka khavaDAvatI AvI che. emAM prema ane jIvadayAnI bhAvanA rahelI che. pazupakSIono AhAra karanArA mAMsAhArI paryAvaraNavAdIo paNa hava manuSyano khorAka keTalAMka pazupakSIone na khavaDAvavAnI himAyata kare che. emAM paNa jIvadayAnI bhAvanA che. mAMsAhArI prajAmAM jIvadayAnI ATalI paNa jAgRti AvI che e eka zubha nizAnI che. alabatta, pazupakSIo to manuSya mATeno khorAka letAM ja rahevAnAM. keTalAka vyasanI mANasone jo potAnA ArogyanI ciMtA nathI hotI, to pazupakSIone to kayAMthI ja hoya ? paNa ApaNe navesarathI vicAravuM rahyuM. *

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sattara mAIlano sAgarakAMTho 245 sattara mAIlanA sAgarakAMThAno anubhava laIne ame pAchA pharyAM. bIje divase savAre chApAmAM moTA phoTA sAthe eka samAcAra hatA. dahIM (yogarTa) banAvatI eka kaMpanInI kacarAmAM paDelI dahIMnI khAlI DabbImAM vadheluM dahIM cATavA mATe aMdara moDhuM bharAvyA pachI moDhuM pAchuM na nIkaLatAM eka sTaMka gUMgaLAIne mRtyu pAmyuM hatuM. jIvadayA premIomAM khaLabhaLATa macI gayo. kaMpanIe bIje ja divase jAherAta karI dIdhI ke pote dahIMnI DabbInI have sAijha evI rAkhaze ke jethI staMka ke khisakolI potAnuM moDhuM bahAra kADhI zake. lokajAgRtinI A ghaNI ja sArI nizAnI gaNAya. jIvadayAnI bhAvanAno vyApa Ama janatAnI kakSAe pAzcAtya dezomAM vadhato jAya che e paNa AzAnuM moTuM kiraNa gaNAya !

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38 zvetAcalanA pradezamAM parvatanAM zikharo para barapha paDe ane jAme tyAre enI zveta AbhA koIka viziSTa ramaNIyatA dhAraNa kare che. unALo AvatAM baraphane ogaLato ane kayAMka kyAMka dhodharUpe paDato jovAno paNa AnaMda che. pharI pAchAM bhUkharAM banatAM zikharo jANe AMsu na vahAvI rahyAM hoya ! 'azrupAta' zabda AvA prapAto joIne vadhAre yathArtha lAge. keTalAMka zikharo para bAre mAsa hima patharAyeluM hoya che. himAlayanAM uttuMga himAcchAdita zikharonI hAramALA enA yathArtha nAmano mahimA darzAve che. uttara amerikAmAM dharatInA pramANamAM parvato ochA che ane emAM paNa himAcchAdita parvato to gaNAvavA paDe. 'amAre tyAM paNa himazikharo che' ema batAvavA mATe ja jANe mAunTa vaoNziMgTanane 'White Mountain' nAma apAyuM haze ema lAge. uttaramAM kaeNneDAnI sarahada pAse AvelA nyU hempazara (New Hampshire - nyU hempazAyara) rAjyamAM mAtra 6288 phUTanI UMcAI dharAvato e parvata ane enI AsapAsanA himAcchAdita zikharo - White Mountains - zvetAcala tarIke oLakhAya che. pramANamAM pAMkhI vastI dharAvanAra nyU hempazaranA A atizaya ThaMDA pradezamAM ziyALAmAM puSkaLa barapha paDe che. tyAM vividha prakAranI, baraphamAM ramAtI ramato ramavA sAhasika khelADIo AvI pahoMce che ane unALAmAM sahelagAha karavA mATe sahelANIonI moTaragADIono dhasAro cAlu thaI jAya che. vaLI unALAmAM A DuMgarALa pradezamAM vegathI dhasamasatA zveta parapoTAvALAM chIcharAM pANI(White Water)mAM rabaranI hoDImAM besI nIcANa tarapha haDaselAtA javAno (Rafting) sAhasika romAMcaka anubhava karavA mATe paNa keTalAye AvI pahoMce che. evI hoDImAM Rafting karAvanArI dhaMdhAdArI kaMpanIo paNa hoya che. amerikAmAM pUrva bAju bosTana pAse ephTanamAM rahetA amArA putranA ghare eka unALAmAM ame parivAranA sarva sabhyo ekatra thayA hatA. eka divasa amArI nAnI dohitrI gArgI ane dohitra kaivalye kahyuM, ''amitAbha mAmA, havenI zani-ravinI rajAmAM tame amane kayAM pharavA laI javAnA cho ?'' ''tamAre kyAM javuM che ?'' ''badhA kahe che ke ahIMthI pAse vhAiTa mAunTana javA jevuM che.'' ''vhAiTa mAunTana ? are tyAM to ApaNuM bIjuM ghara paNa che. tyAM tamane bahu majhA Avaze tyAM TI.vI. paNa che ane tamAre lAyaka sAikla paNa che. ApaNe jarUra tyAM jaIzuM.'' 246

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tAcalanA pradezamAM 247 amane thayuM ke amitAbhe A bIjuM ghara kyAre vasAvyuM haze ? ApaNane kazI vAta paNa karI nathI ane evuM bIjuM ghara vasAvavAnI jarUra paNa zI ? paNa amerikAnI vAta judI che. ApaNA bhAratamAM jo saMpanna loko havA khAvAnA sthaLe bIjuM ghara vasAvatA hoya te amerikAmAM to ethI paNa vadhu saheluM che. tyAM to manamAM vicAra thatAM ja ghara levA, vecavA, badalavAnI bahu saraLatA che. e mATe tarata lona ApavA beMkvALA ja vadhu utAvaLa karatA hoya che. keTalAMka varSa pahelAM mArA eka vidyArthIe amerikA jaIne vasavATa ryo tyAre divALI prasaMge lakhelA kArDanI sAthe potAnA navA gharano phoTo mokalAvyo hato. ghara bahu ja suMdara hatuM. enI pragati joIne huM prasanna thayo hato, paNa gharanI kiMmata rUpiyA paMdara lAkha lakhelI ethI mane Azcarya thayuM hatuM ke eka varSamAM patipatnIno pagAra be lAkha jeTalo paNa nathI to paMdara lAkhanA gharanA mAlika kevI rIte thaI gayAM ? jarUra kaMIka laoNTarI lAgI haro. pachI mArA kautukabharyA praznanA javAbamAM emaNe lakheluM ke ghara to beMkanA paise lIdheluM che. vIsa varSe hama bharAI jatAM te potAnI mAlikInuM thaI jaze. amerikAmAM aneka lokonAM ghara A rIte beMkanA paise vasatAM hoya che. tyAM kAyadA evA saraLa che ane vyavahAra eTalo sIdho ane jhaDapI che ke beMkane ke gharadhaNIne bahu ciMtA hotI nathI. mAtra ghara ja nahi, bIjI aneka vastuo hasethI maLI zakatI hoya che. amerikAmAM rahetA eka vaDIla kahetA ke "amerikAnI keTalIka ronaka to A udhArI para che. enA arthataMtramAM udhArInuM yogadAna moTuM che." alabatta, tyAM paraspara vizvAsa moTo hoya che ane kAyadAo evA sIdhA che ke vivAda thAya to tarata nikAla Ave. vhAITa mAunTananuM ghara A rIte ja levAyuM haze ema ame mAnyuM. ekaTanathI vhAITa mAunTana lagabhaga doDhaso mAIla dUra che. tyAM pahoMcatAM lagabhaga sADAtraNa-cAra kalAka thAya. be rAta rokAvAnuM hatuM eTale e pramANe kapaDAM ame lIdhAM, paNa amitAbhe kahyuM, "tyAM vaoNziMga mazIna paNa che, eTale vadhAre paDatAM kapaDAM lezo nahi. jarUra paDe to dhoI zakAze." zukravAre sAMje pAMceka vAgye be gADImAM ame nava sabhyoe gharethI nIkaLI uttara dizA tarapha jato 93 naMbarano hAIve pakaDyo. vacce AvatAM zahero konkorDa, plImatha, kepTana, guDasToka vagerene aDIne ame AgaLa vadhyA. hAIvenI khAsiyata e hoya che ke zaheronAM nAma vAMcavA maLe, paNa zahero jovA na maLe. e jevAM hoya to hAIve choDavo paDe. DuMgarALa pradezamAM karelo samathaLa rasto vaLAMko leto AgaLa vadhato hato. baMne bAju ziyALAmAM thIjelAM vRkSo have praphullita banI gayAM hatAM. thoDe thoDe aMtare khaLakhaLa vahetAM jharaNAM rastAnI AmanyA rAkhIne bAjumAMthI AgaLa vadhatAM hatAM.

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248 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana unALo hato eTale AkAza paNa nirabhra hatuM. sAMjano kUNo taDako kALAM caramAM utAravA Agraha karato hato. doDhaso mAIlanuM aMtara kApI ame liMkana nAmanA nAnakaDA zahera pAse AvI pahoMcyA. nizAnI pramANe vaLAMka laI zaheramAM dAkhala thaI ame amArA kaoNplekasamAM, amArA gharamAM dAkhala thayA. ghara jotAM ja baMne bALako bolI UThyAM, "mAmAnuM ghara bahu ja sarasa che. " be mALavALA gharamAM palaMga, sophA, TI.vI., Teliphona, voziMga mazIna, mAIkroveva, kUkiMga renja, vajana karavAno kAMTo vagere jotAM lAge che ghara sarasa vasAveluM che. ATaluM moTuM bIjuM ghara beMkanI lona vagara levAya ja nahi. meM jijJAsAthI sahaja pUchyuM, "A ghara mATe beMkanI keTalI lona lIdhI che ?'' paraMtu amitAbhe samita mauna sevyuM. pharI meM kahyuM, "ahIM havAkhAvAne sthaLe AvaDuM moTuM ghara vasAvyuM enA karatAM kAyamanuM rahevAnuM ghara moTuM rAkhavuM joIene ?" paraMtu pharIthI e ja sasmita mauna. ame svaccha, zAnta, vizALa, manahara saMkulamAM AMTA mAryA, chokarAMoe sAIkala pheravI ane mahilAvarge rasoI karI lIdhI. unALAnA lAMbA divaso hatA eTale aMdhAruM thavAne vAra hatI. bhojana pachI be jaNa sTorsamAMthI dUdha, nAsto vagere laI AvyA. thoDI vAra gapATA mAryA, TI.vI. joyuM ane nidrAdhIna thayA. bIje divase savAre daseka vAgye ame liMkana zaherathI keTalAka mAIla uttare AvelA northa konvoya nAmanA nagaramAM gayA. hArabaMdha judA judA sTorsa hatA. amerikAmAM 'zopiMga plAjhA' athavA "maoNla' eTale jANe moTuM gAma. paNa ahIM to enI avadhi hatI. jANavA maLyuM ke unALo zarU thAya eTale basocAraso mAIla dUrathI paNa mANaso gADI laIne ahIM AvI pahoce. zani-ravi vizeSa. enuM mukhya kAraNa e ke bIjA rAjyo karatAM nyU hempazaramAM vastuo sastI maLe che, kAraNa ke A rAjyamAM vecANavero nathI. kharIdIdhelA amerikanone ahIMno dhakko vasula thayelo lAge che. sTorsavALAo paNa paraspara spardhAmAM vAjabI ochA bhAva rAkhIne unALAmAM bAra mahinAno vakaro karI le che. ame AvyA hatA to pharavAnuM paNa sastI vastuo joI mana lalacAyuM eTale emanA vakarAmAM amAro paNa hisso Apyo. Akho divasa kyAM pasAra thaI gayo tenI khabara na paDI. bIje divase ame AsapAsanA anya vistAramAM pharI lIdhuM. ahIM peTrola paNa satuM ane gADI dhovAnuM paNa sastuM. ame peTrola bharAvI lIdhuM ane svayaMsaMcAlita vyavasthAmAM mazInamAM sikko nAkhI, gADImAM kAca caDAvI beThAM beThAM ja cAre bAjuthI joradAra phuvArAnI jema chUTatA pANI vaDe gADI paNa dhovaDAvI lIdhI.

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249 etAcalanA pradezamAM ghare AvI, bhojanAdithI paravArI, ghara vyavasthita baMdha karI ame ephaTana AvavA nIkaLyA. chokarAMone mAmAnuM navuM ghara joyAno ane rahevAno viziSTa AnaMda hato. liMkana zaheramAMthI ame bahAra nIkaLatA hatA. huM gADImAM AgaLanI beThakamAM amitAbhanI bAjumAM beTho hato. 93 naMbaranA hAIvenI nizAnI AvI, paNa e bAju na vaLatAM gADI sIdhI cAlI. meM tarata dhyAna doryuM. amitAbhe kahyuM, "pahelAM ApaNe ahIM posTaoNphise javuM che." "paNa Aje to baMdha haze, ravivAra che." ApaNe to mAtra TapAla nAkhavAnI che. arjanTa che." amitAbhe taiyAra rAkheluM kavara meM hAthamAM lIdhuM. jaIne kahyuM, "A to bIjA koInA akSara che. nyUyorkanuM saranAmuM che. koNa che A bhAI ?" "je gharamAM ApaNe rahyA enA mAlika." to mAmA, A ghara ApaNuM nathI ?" chokarAMoe tarata prazna karyo. rahyA tyAM sudhI ApaNe, have nahi." che. amane badhAne Azcarya thayuM. vAtano khulAso karatAM amitAbhe kahyuM, "tame hAITa mAunTana javAnuM kahyuM eTale tarata komyuTaramAM joyuM ke tyAM koNa koNa ghara bhADe Ape che ane emAM kevI kevI sagavaDa che. emAM A ghara pasaMda paDyuM. nyUyorka e bhAIne tarata I-meIla karyo. bIje divase TapAlamAM emanI cAvI AvI pahoMcI. emAM sUcanAo, zarato, rastAonuM mArgadarzana hatuM tathA cAvI pAchI mokalavA mATenuM ane sAthe eka mokalavA mATenuM nAma-saranAmAvALuM A TikiTa coDeluM kavara hatuM. A kavara ahIMnI posTaophisamAM nAkhavAnI sUcanA che ane posTaoNphisa kyAM AvI enuM mArgadarzana paNa che." * posTaoNphisamAM kavara nAkhI ame hAIve pakaDyo. jenA AlIzAna makAnamAM ame be divasa rahI AvyA eNe amane joyA nathI ke ame emane joyA nathI. emanA ghare rahI AvyA eTale paraspara saMbaMdha baMdhAyo evuM paNa nahi. paraspara vizvAsa e ja sauthI moTI vastu gaNAya. Avo vizvAsa paNa sarvavyApI banato hoya to ?

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korintha vizvamAM prAcInatama saMskRti tarIke bhAratIya saMskRtinI gaNanA thAya che. aDhItraNa hajAra varSa pUrvenA zilpasthApatyAdi prakAranA sAMskRtika avazeSo bhUmadhya samudranA kinArAnA keTalAka dezomAM je jovA maLe che teTalA prAcIna avazeSo bhAratamAM jovA maLatA nathI. bhUmadhya samudranA te dezanI prajAoe paththara pAsethI je kalAtmaka kAma e yugamAM lIdhuM hatuM te ananya che. grIsanI prajAe aDhI-traNa hajAra varSa pahelAM potAnAM keTalAMka vizALa bhavya maMdiromAM, hAthe ghaDIne taiyAra karelA dasa-paMdara phUTa jeTalA UMcA ane tenA pramANamAM pahoLA, TanabaMdha vajanavALA staMbho UbhA karIne je bAMdhakAma karyuM hatuM temAMthI evA keTalAye staMbho enI e ja jagyAe haju aDIkhama UbhA che. dharatIkaMpo, vAvAjhoDAMo, yuddho vagerenI sAme adyApiparyata te aNanama rahyA che. zilpasthApatyanI vidyA tyAre grIsamAM keTalI badhI vikasI haze teno ApaNane khyAla Ave che. ame keTalAka pravAsIo eka TUra kaMpanInA Ayojana dvArA grIsanA pravAse gayAM hatAM tyAre ethensa pachI korinthanI mulAkAtano amAre mATe kAryakrama goThavAyo hato. ethensathI cA-nAsto karIne savAre ame basamAM nIkaLyAM. ethensathI lagabhaga sATha mAIla dUra koriW (Corinth - grIka zabda Korinthos) AveluM che. unALAnA divaso hatA, paNa savArano samaya hato eTale vAtAvaraNa khuzanumA hatuM. zahera choDatAM pahelAM amArI basa eka sthaLe UbhI rahI. tyAMthI amArA gAIDa besavAnA hatA. gAIDe dAkhala thaI badhAMnuM svAgata karyuM. potAno paricaya Apyo. teo nivRtta sarakArI amaladAra hatA. mAthe vacce moTI TAla hatI ane AsapAsa dhoLA vALa hatA te parathI teo sittere pahoMcavA AvyA haze ema lAgyuM. temaNe potAnuM nAma kahyuM paNa te yAda rahyuM nathI. temaNe korinthano paricaya Apyo je nIce mujaba che : grIsanA prAcIna nagaromAM ethensa, spArTA, korintha, DelphI, olimpiyA vageremAM korintha sauthI vadhu jUnuM che. ethensa karatAM paNa te vadhu prAcIna che. atyAre grIsa eka deza che, paNa te kALe ethensa, spArTA, korintha vagerenAM judAM judAM nagararAjyo hatAM. emAM ethensa enA e ja sthaLe moTA nagara tarIke haju paNa vidyamAna rahyuM che. paraMtu smArTa ane korintha bhagnAvazeSa banI gayAM che. tenI bAjumAM nagaro vasyAM che, paNa te nAnAM ane mahattva vinAnAM che. 25o

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korintha 251 bIjA vizvayuddha pachI korinthanA vistAramAM ghaNuM khodakAma thayuM che ane bhagna nagaranA bahu avazeSo have tyAM najare jovA maLe che. koriW pAMca hajAra varSa pahelAM vaseluM nagara che. tyArathI Aja divasa sudhI enuM nAma korintha' ja rahyuM che. AraMbhamAM amuka jAtinA loko tyAM AvIne vasyA haze. A sthaLanI pasaMdagInuM mukhya kAraNa tyAre pANInuM hatuM. jyAM pIvAnuM pANI pUratA pramANamAM maLI rahe tyAM rakhaDu jAtio vasavATa karatI. korintha pAse jharaNAMnuM pANI vipula pramANamAM che. vaLI korintha pAse parvata che. eTale killA jevuM kudaratI rakSaNa ene maLI rahetuM. taduparAMta thoDA mAIlanA aMtare ja, korinthanI be bAju be samudra che - korinthano akhAta ane sAronika akhAta. A zahera uttarottara samRddha thatuM gayuM haze, kAraNa ke lagabhaga poNA traNa hajAra varSa pUrve grIka kavi homare potAnA mahAkAvyamAM korinthano eka samRddha nagara tarIke ullekha karyo che. IsavIsana pUrvenA navamA saikAmAM Doriyana jAtinA lokoe korintha upara caDAI karIne teno kabajo meLavyo hato. te pUrve vividha jAtinI prajAoe tyAM AvIne vasavATa karyo hato. korinthanA prAcIna ItihAsanI bahu vigato maLatI nathI, paNa je saMdabha maLe che te parathI ema manAya che ke sisiphasa karinthano prathama rAjA hato. pAMkhavALo UDato ghoDo pegAsasa' e enuM sattAvAra rAjadvArI pratIka hatuM. IsavIsana pUrve chaThThA-sAtamA saikAmAM korinthanuM rAjya vistAra pAmatuM gayuM hatuM. vepAra-udyoga ane vahANavaTAmAM korintha ghaNI pragati karI hatI. mATInAM moTAM vAsaNo, enA upara citrakAma, vaNATakAma, dhAtunI cIjavastuo, ojAro, yuddha mATenAM hathiyAro vagere khodakAma karatAM je maLyAM che te parathI jaNAya che ke koriLyuM tyAre ghaNI pragati karI haze. IsavIsana pUrve chaThThA-sAtamA saikAmAM sAIselasa ane pachI enA putra periAnDaranA zAsanakALa daramiyAna korinthanI bahu jAhojalAlI hatI. - A yugamAM korinthamAM grIka sUryadevatA (tathA saMgIta, saMrakSaNa ane pavitratAnA devatA) epolonuM maMdira baMdhAyuM hatuM. enA keTalAka staMbha Aje paNa tyAM jovA maLe che. e vakhate nagarakoTa tarIke korintha bAMdhelI majabUta dIvAla eTalI moTI ane vistAravALI hatI ke evI moTI dIvAla grIsamAM bIje kyAMya baMdhAI nahotI. zilpasthApatyanuM ghaNuM suMdara kAma A yuga daramiyAna thayuM hatuM. paraMtu samRddhinI Toce pahoMcelAM nagaronuM keTalIka vAra thAya che tevuM ja korinthanuM thayuM hatuM. IsavIsananA bIjA saikAthI lagabhaga dasamA saikA sudhI korinthanI jANe dazA beThI hoya ema banyA karyuM. ethensa sAthe yuddha thayuM, meseDoniyAe AkramaNa karyuM, romanoe caDAI karI, parziyanoe laDAI karI, oTomAna turka lokoe saMhAra karyo. Ama videzIonAM AkramaNo thayAM, dharatIkaMpo thayA, duzmanoe AkhA

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2para pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana zaherane Aga lagADI ane e rIte korintha khedAnamedAna thaI gayuM, ujjaDa banI gayuM hatuM. gAIDe korintha vize amane ghaNI mAhitI ApI. romanonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna ane pachI turka lokonA rAjyasamaya daramiyAna korintha keTaloka vakhata prApta karelI jAhojalAlIno paNa amane khyAla Apyo. tyAre korinthanI eka pacaraMgI nagara tarIke khyAti vadhI hatI. korintha AvatAM pahelAM amArI basa eka sthaLe UbhI rahI. ame sau nIce UtaryA. korinthanI nahera amane batAvavAmAM AvI. korinthano vistAra eTale be samudra vaccenI nAnI paTTI (Isthmus) arthAt saMyogI bhUmi. eka bAju korinthano akhAta ane bIjI bAju sAronika samudra. baMnene joDatI nahera jo khodavAmAM Ave to rojeroja keTalAMye vahANonuM so mAIlanuM cakkara bacI jAya, paraMtu nakkara paththaramAM nahera khodavAnuM saheluM nahotuM. naherano vicAra pariAnDarane Avyo hato. paNa e zakya na hovAthI eNe evI yojanA vicArI ke eka cheDe vahANa UbhAM rahe. emAMthI mAla utArIne paiDAMvALAM vAhanomAM mUkavAmAM Ave ane bIje cheDe pahoMcADavAmAM Ave. e vAhano sArI rIte cAlI zake e mATe sapATa rasto karavo joIe. paNa enI yojanA sarakhI amalamAM AvI nahi. tyAra pachI romanonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna samrATa nIro ITalIthI korintha Avyo hato. enI samakSa naheranI yojanA mUkavAmAM AvI. e vAta ene gaLe UtarI. eNe hukama choDyo ane nahera khodavA mATe cha hajAra gulAmone kAme lagADI devAmAM AvyA. paraMtu evAmAM romamAM baLavo thayo eTale gulAmone pAchA bolAvI levAmAM AvyA. pachInA saikAomAM naheranI yojanA kyAreya thaI nahi. chevaTe ogaNIsamI sadImAM nahera karavAmAM AvI. dariyAnI sapATI karatAM jamInanI sapATI ghaNI ja UMcI che ane paththara evo nakkara che ke nahera karatAM ghaNAM varSo lAgyA ane kharca paNa ghaNuM thayuM hatuM. ame uparathI joyuM to nahera bahu ja sAMkaDI, eka nAnI sTImara pasAra thaI zake evaDI che, paraMtu nIce bhUrA pANImAM vArApharatI sarakatI jatI, uparathI nAnI dekhAtI sTImaronuM dazya gamI jAya evuM hatuM. eka bAjunA korinthanA akhAtanI vAta karatAM gAIDe kahyuM ke A akhAtanI rAha evI che ke korinthanI rAjyasattAnuM enI para sAruM varcasva TakI rahyuM hatuM. I.sa. 1571mAM oTomAna turka ane korintha vacce jyAre yuddha thayuM tyAre A akhAtamAM khelAyelA naukAyuddhamAM kula tetrIsa hajAra turka nausainikone DubADI devAmAM AvyA hatA. tyAra pachI eno badalo levA turkastAne paNa hajAro grIka lokono saMhAra karyo hato. korinthanI nahera joI ame basamAM beThAM. gAIDe kahyuM, "have ApaNe korinthanA avazeSo jovA jaIzuM. tyAM ThIka ThIka vAra lAgaze ane laMca mATe tamAre thoDuM moDuM thaze.

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korinja 253 eTale pahelAM ApaNe ahIM eka sToramAM jaIe chIe. tyAM kaoNphI, biskiTa vagere maLe che ane yAdagIrInI vastuo (Souvenir) paNa maLe che. e mATe tamane vIsa miniTano samaya ApavAmAM Ave che.' amane badhAMne e sToramAM laI javAmAM AvyAM. paNa amArAmAMthI koI pravAsIe na kazuM khAdhuMpIdhuM ke na kazI kharIdI karI. tyAM badhuM moMghuMdATa hatuM eTale akAraNa DaoNlara kharcI nAkhavAno koIno jIva cAlato nahoto. yAdagIrI ane zokhanI cIjavastuonA bhAva amArA jevA bhAratIya pravAsIo mATe AsamAnI hatA. eTale saue enAM darzanathI ja saMtoSa mAnyo. samaya thayo eTale badhA nIkaLavAM lAgyAM. huM chelle nIkaLato hato evAmAM mAruM dhyAna amArA gAiDa para paDyuM. teo kaeNziyara mahilAnA Tebala pAse UbhA hatA. emanI bhASAmAM zI vAtacIta thatI haze te samajAyuM nahi, paraMtu kaeNziyaranA Tebala para vecavA mATe mUkelAM caoNkaleTanA pekeTamAMthI gAiDe eka upADyuM, paNa kaeNziyara mahilAe e tarata chInavI laI pAchuM mUkI dIdhuM. e parathI temanI vacce zo saMvAda thayo haze tenI anumAnathI meM kalpanA karI. kaeNziyare kahyuM haze ke 'tamArA pravAsIomAMthI koIe kazI kharIdI karI nathI eTale tamane kiMmazanarUpe kazuM maLI zake nahi.' gAiDe kahyuM haze, 'koI kazI kharIdI na kare temAM huM zuM karuM ? tamArA sToramAM badhAMne laI Avyo e mATe kaMI nahi to caoNkaleTanuM eka pekeTa to Apazo ke nahi ?' e game te hoya, paNa gAiDanA bolavAno raNako pachI kaMIka badalAyo hato e to samajanAra ja samajI zake. basamAM besI ame avazeSonI jagyAe, prAcIna korintha nagaranA sthaLe AvI pahoMcyAM.' korinthanA avazeSo ghaNe dUra sudhI patharAyelA paDyA hatA. gAiDe taDakAthI bacavA mAthe TopI paherI lIdhI ane potAnI pAchaLa AvavA badhAM pravAsIone jaNAvyuM. pravAsIonI moTI maMDaLI hoya tyAre badhAMne ekasarakho rasa na hoya. vaLI taDakAmAM cAlavAnuM hatuM, eka sthaLe UbhA rahI gAiDe samajAvavuM cAlu karyuM. pravAsIomAMnI be yuvatIo vAto karatI dhIme dhIme cAlatI chelle AvI pahoMcI. emaNe pharIthI samajAvavAno gAiDane Agraha karatAM kahyuM, 'havethI badhAM AvI jAya pachI samajAvavAnuM tame cAlu karo.' gAiDe kahyuM, 'tame badhAMnI sAthe AvI jAva to sAruM. ahIM jovAnuM ghaNuM che ane cAlavAnuM paNa ghaNuM che.' gAiDe pharIthI badhuM samajAvyuM. tyAMthI ame bIje sthaLe gayAM. pelI be yuvatIo AvI nahotI. badhAMe gAiDane Agraha karyo ane gAiDe cAlu karyuM. tyAM e yuvatIoe AvIne roSapUrvaka gAiDane TokavAnuM cAlu karyuM. keTalAMka pravAsIoe e yuvatIone samajAvavA koziza karI, paNa ethI to e vadhu vIpharI. gAiDe kahyuM, 'sannArIo, gAiDa sAthe jhaghaDo karavAthI aMte to nukasAna ja thAya che.'

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254 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana paraMtu gAIDanA vAkayano zo artha thAya che te tenI samajamAM Avyo nahi. teo babaDatI ja rahI. "ame nANAM pUrAM khacya che to amAre mATe rAha kema na jovI ? amane badhuM samajavAno pUro haka che.' AvuM mithyAbhimAna emanA valaNamAM dekhAtuM hatuM. koI paNa pravAsamAM gAIDanI sAthe sahRdayatAno siddhAnta ja vadhu lAbhadAyI nIvaDe che. gAIDe keTaluM samajAvyuM ane keTaluM choDI dIdhuM enI ajANyA pravAsIne kevI rIte khabara paDe ? - have gAIDano utsAha maMda paDI gayo hato. teo eka pachI eka sthaLe jaI, badhAM AvI pahoMce tyAM sudhI zAntithI UbhA rahI, pachI hasatAM hasatAM pUche,' have cAlu karuM ?' pachI e vize cArapAMca vAkayo kahI vAta saMkelI le. gAIDanI navI hasamukhI paddhatino aNasAra amane keTalAka mitrone AvI gayo. pelI yuvatIo mAMhomAMhe bolatI hatI, "joyuM ? ApaNe bolyAM to ATalo phera paDyo !' ame paNa mAMhomAMhe vAta karatA hatA : joyuM ? ApaNe gAIDa sAthe jhaghaDyA ethI ATalo phera paDyo !' tyAra pachI gAIDe bajAravistAra (Agora), kabaro, thiyeTara, epolonuM maMdira vagere dUrathI ja batAvI dIdhAM. pachI teo amane saMgrahasthAna (Museum) pAse laI gayA ane kahyuM, "A vistAramAMthI je avazeSo maLyA che te A saMgrahasthAnamAM rAkhavAmAM AvyA che. tamane poNA kalAkano samaya ApavAmAM Ave che. e avazeSo joI tame basa para AvI jaze.' ame samajI gayA ke gAIDe myujhiyamamAM AvIne samajAvavAnuM TALyuM. teo eka bAMkaDA para beThA. badhAM myujhiyamamAM dAkhala thayAM. ame traNeka mitro gAIDa pAse UbhA rahyA ane emanA kAryane biradAvatAM vacano kahyAM ane jijJAsAbharyA keTalAka prazno mRdutApUrvaka pUchayA, amArI sAcI jijJAsA joI gAIDano gAIDa tarIkeno AtmA AnaMdita thaI gayo. emaNe kahyuM, 'tamane sAMskRtika avazeSomAM rasa che, to cAlo, huM tamane keTalAka viziSTa avazeSo batAvuM." gAIDa amane thoDe dUra laI gayA. eka sthaLe aDhI hajAra varSa prAcIna evAM snAnAgAra hatAM. pANI vahI javA mATenI bhUgarbha nALa hatI. eka sthaLe Adhunika paddhati jevAM zaucAlaya hatAM. tyAra pachI hajAra mANaso ekasAthe jAhera kAryakrama khullAmAM nihALI zake e mATe kevA prakAranI jagyA pasaMda karavAmAM AvI hatI te batAvyuM. gAIDanuM hRdaya jItavAthI teo keTalA khIlI zake te ame pratyakSa anubhavyuM. tyAra pachI gAIDa myujhiyamamAM amArI sAthe AvyA. grIka, romana, bAyajhenTAIna vagere yuganI cIjavastuo amane batAvI ane temanI lAkSaNikatA samajAvI. keTalAMka

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kompi 255 varSa pahelAM AMtararASTrIya ToLakI dvArA myujhiyamamAM thayelI corImAM cAlI gayelI eka mahatvanI vastu te DAyonisisanI moTI mukhAkRti che te paNa amane kahyuM. amArAmAMnA ghaNAkharA to pAMca-dasa miniTa myujhiyamamAM AMTA mArI, Amatema pharIne basamAM besI gayAM hatAM. gAIDanA saujanyathI amane thoDuM vizeSa jovA jANavA maLyuM eno AnaMda hato. alabatta, ghaNAMne kazuM gumAvyAnI khabara paNa nahotI ane khabara paDe to aphasosa thAya ema nahoto. Ama paNa A badhI vAto keTalA divasa yAda rahevAnI hatI ? pAMcadasa varSa pachI ame grIsamAM korintha paNa gayAM hatAM eTaluM paNa keTalAMkane yAda na rahe to te samajI zakAya evI vAta che. A to prAcIna sAMskRtika avazeSonA avalokananI vAta hatI, paraMtu vyavahAru DahApaNa to kahe che ke pravAsamAM gAIDa-bhomiyA sAthe jhaghaDavAthI lAbha karatAM nukasAna ja vadhAre thavA saMbhava che. jUnA vakhatanI eka kahevatanuM mane smaraNa thayuM : jaMgale jaTTa (jaMgalI mANasa) na cheDIe, bajAre bakAla; kasabe tarka (musalamAna) na cheDIe, nizcaya Ave kALa. AnI jema ja ApaNe kahI zakIe : pravAse bhomiyo na cheDIe, nizcaya cUkIe mArga. badhAM AvI jatAM amArI basa ethensa tarapha pAchI pharI.

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ejiyana samudranA TApuomAM duniyAnA keTalAka dezonA sAMskRtika vikAsamAM enA mukhya taLapradeza(Main land)nI jema enI AsapAsanA enA TApuonuM paNa eTaluM ja mahattvanuM kArya raheluM che. evA dezomAM grIsanuM sthAna mokhare che. vaLI grIsanI saMskRti paNa eTalI ja prAcIna che. yuropamAM bhUmadhya samudranA kinAre AvelA rASTromAM spena, phrAnsa, ITalI, yugoslAviyA, AlbaniyA, grIsa, turkastAna vageremAM sauthI vadhu TApuo dharAvatuM rASTra te grIsa che. Ama to badho jaLavistAra bRhad bhUmadhya samudrano ja gaNAya, paraMtu judA judA kinArAnA pradezanA lokoe ene oLakhavA mATe judAM judAM nAma prAcIna samayathI ja ApelAM che. grIka lokoe potAnA eka bAjunA vizALa samudrane ejiyana (Aegean) samudra ane bIjI bAjunA samudrane Ayoniyana (Ionian) samudranuM nAma ApyuM che. A baMne samudramAM paNa paMdarathI vadhu akhAto che ane te darekanAM judAM judAM nAma che. khAssA moTA moTA ekasothI vadhu TApu dharAvanAra ejiyana samudrano mahimA grIsa mATe ghaNo moTo che. A samudranI AbohavAmAM ja koIka evuM tattva che je jIvanane cetanathI dhabakatuM rAkhe che. tyAMnA beTonA nIrava vAtAvaraNamAM kavitA, saMgIta, citrakalA, zilpakalA, sthApatyakalA, dharmakalA, tattvajJAna vagere sArI rIte pAMgaratAM rahyAM che ane grIsanI saMskRtinA vikAsamAM anokhuM pradAna karatAM rahyAM che. ejiyana samudranA TApuono itihAsa bAda karIe to grIsano sAMskRtika ItihAsa adhUro rahe. - A ejiyana samudramAM saphara karavAno eka suMdara avasara amane keTalAMka pravAsImitrone sAMpaDyo hato. amArI saphara to eka ja divasanI hatI ane phakta traNa TApuonuM vihaMgAvalokana ja karavAnuM hatuM, paNa e anubhava mAre mATe eTalo samRddha ane smaraNIya banI gayo che ke ejiyana samudranuM nAma sAMbhaLatAM ja hRdaya praphullita banI jAya che. grIsano bhavya bhUtakALa calacitranI jema najara sAme taravaravA lAge che. amArI sTImaranuM nAma paNa evuM ja yathArtha hatuM : "ejiyana glorI' (Aegean Glory). ame sTImaramAM savAre ATha vAge dAkhala thayA tyAre lAkSaNika grIka pozAkamAM susajja evA karmacArIoe amAruM sabhAva svAgata karyuM. emanA hasatA caherAmAM kRtrimatA ke aupacArikatA nahotI. pravezadvAramAM ja eka yuvaka ane eka yuvatI eka pachI 256

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ejiyana samudranA TApuomAM eka pravAsInA hAtha pakaDIne UbhA rahe ane phoTogrAphara phoTo pADI le. samagra vAtAvaraNa eTaluM AvakArabharyuM hatuM ke ApaNane ajANayuM na lAge. be mALa ane upara DekavALI sudIrgha, suMdara, suzobhita, susajja ane suvidhAyukta sTImaramAM yatheccha pharI zakIe. pAMcasothI adhika pravAsIomAM duniyAnA ghaNA dezonA nAgariko hatA, eTale mAIka upara jAherAta iMgliza, phenca ane grIka bhASAmAM thatI hatI. mAIkanI vyavasthA eTalI sarasa hatI ke game tyAM hoIe, badhuM ja spaSTa saMbhaLAya. samaya thayo eTale sTImara UpaDI. marinA philasavaoNsano kinAro choDI uttarottara vadhatI jatI gatie sTImara sAronika akhAtanA jaLa para AgaLa vadhavA lAgI. pravAsIone mAIka upara pravAsanI rUparekhA samajAvavAmAM AvI ane vyavasthAnI mAhitI apAI. ejiyana samudranA TApuo vize bolatAM gAIDa yuvatIe kahyuM ke, grIsa ane turkastAna vacceno vizALa samudra te ejiyana samudra. hAla grIsamAM mukhya dharma te khristI dharma che ane turkastAnamAM IslAma dharma. grIsanI gaNanA yuropamAM thAya che ane turkastAnanI eziyAmAM. paraMtu khristI dharma ane IslAma dharmano udaya nahoto thayo te pUrve yuropanI eka prAcIna vikasita saMskRti te grIka saMskRti che. sADA traNa hajArathI cAra hajAra varSa pahelAMnI A vAta che. A sAMskRtika vikAsamAM ejiyana samudranA TApuono ghaNo moTo phALo rahelo che. eTale ja ItihAsakAro ejiyana dvIpasamUhane yuropIya saMskRtinI jananI' tarIke oLakhAve che.' vaLI kahyuM, 'ejiyana samudramAM kithanosa (KITHNOS - kithanAsa, Osno Asa uccAra paNa thAya che), sirosa, nAkasosa, sAmosa, milosa, enDrosa, Tilosa, therA, Delosa, siphanosa vagere so karatAM vadhu TApuo AvelA che. dakSiNe keTe (athavA kriTa ke kriTI) nAmanA vizALa TApu sudhI ejiyana samudranI hada gaNAya che. dareka TApuno potAno ItihAsa che. darekanI potAnI keTalIka lAkSaNikatA che. A badhA TApuomAMthI Aje ApaNe mAtra hAIDrA, porosa ane ejinA e traNa TApuonI ja mulAkAta laIzuM. bIjA keTalAka vize thoDIka mAhitI ApIza.' amArI sTImare have ekasarakhI gati dhAraNa karI lIdhI hatI. kinAro dekhAto baMdha thayo hato. cArebAju samudranAM nIlaraMgI pANI parathI vaheto zItaLa vAyu prasannatA prerato hato. samudranA taraMgo cittamAM AhalAdanA taraMgo janmAvatA hatA. gAIDe bIjI bhASAmAM bolavAnuM cAlu karyuM eTale e ghaNAne mATe virAmarUpa hatuM. ame kebinamAMthI bahAra nIkaLI Deka para gayAM. taDako cAlu thaI gayo hato eTale keTalAMka pravAsIoe sTImara kaMpanIe bheTa ApelI chAjalIvALI sapheda TopI paherI lIdhI hatI. sTImare kApelAM pANI beya bAju haDaselAtAM jaI anukrame zamI jatAM hatAM.

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258 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana pharI iMgliza bhASA cAlu thatAM gAIDa taraphathI vizeSa mAhitI sAMpaDI. grIsanI keTalIye mahAna vibhUtio A TApuonI rahevAsI hatI. IsavIsana pUrve Azare AThamA saikAmAM thaI gayelA grIka mahA kavi homara AmAMnA eka TApunA rahIza hatA. 'iliyaDa' ane oNDesI' jevAM mahAkAvyonuM sarjana ejiyana vistAramAM thayuM che. suprasiddha gaNitazAstrI ane tatvaciMtaka pAyathAgorasa ahIMnA eka TApunA hatA. mahAna grIka tattvavettA erisToTala avasAna pAmyA tyAre emanA dehane ahIM eka TApu para daphanAvavAmAM Avyo hato. mahAna vaidya hipokriTisa tathA saMta jahona DivAIna A TApuomAM thaI gayA. saMta pola A TApuomAM vicaryA hatA ane emaNe ghaNe sthaLe devaLo baMdhAvyAM hatAM.' prAcIna grIka loko devadevIomAM bahu zraddhA dharAvatA. samudranA devatA (jaLa devatA) paoNsiDona(Poseidon)nAM maMdiro Thera Thera che. te dharatIkaMpanA paNa devatA gaNAya che ane ghoDAonA devatA paNa gaNAya che. romanonA jaLadevatA neyUna (Neptune) ane paoNsiDona eka manAya che. grIka sUryadevatA epolono janma ahIMnA Delosa TApu para thayo hato. te saMgItanA, bhaviSyavANInA, zuddhinA, ArogyanA ane saMrakSaNanA deva tarIke manAya che. loko paoNsiDona ane epolonI zraddhApUrvaka pUjAbhakti kare che. teo samudradevatAne vadhu bhaje che kAraNa ke teo mAne che ke A dviIpasamUhanI je kaMI samRddhi che te samudradevatAne AbhArI che. romana loko jene mAtA tarIke pUje che e premanI devI vinasanI kalAkRti tarIke jagavikhyAta banelI mUrti ahIMnA milosa TApumAMthI nIkaLI hatI. eTale e vinasa da milo' tarIke jANItI che. A beTAI (Islander) lokonI jIvanazailI kaMIka anokhI hoya che. sarakho sUryaprakAza, sarakhI havA, sAruM pANI, sArI vanaspati vagere hoya to khetI, Dhorauchera, vANijya, Arogya ityAdi mATe sAro avakAza rahe. ethI jIvana samRddha bane che. A TApuonA keTalAye loko jANe svargIya vAtAvaraNamAM rahetA hoya evo AnaMda luMTe che. A dvIpastha lokomAM, vizeSataH puruSomAM javalle ja koI evo hoya che ke jene taratAM na AvaDatuM hoya. hoDI, vahANa calAvatAM, halesAM mAratAM darekane AvaDe. e emanI viziSTatA che. traNa hajAra varSa pahelAM grIsanI prajAe vahANavidhAmAM nipuNatA meLavI hatI. teoe moTAM moTAM vahANo banAvyAM hatAM ane Akho bhUmadhya samudra khUMdI vaLyA hatA. spenamAMthI je prAcIna grIka avazeSo maLyA che te batAve che ke traNa hajAra varSa pUrve grIka loko TheTha spena sudhI potAnAM vahANomAM pahoMcatA hatA. A badhA TApuo rahyA eTale sAva sapATa to hoya ja nahi. keTalAka to TharI gayelA javALAmukhI che. eTale TApumAM sIdhA, lAMbA, sapATa rastA javalle ja maLe. sAMkaDA, caDhANavALA ane vaLAMkavALA rastAo hoya. kayAMka caDhANa kaparuM hoya to paththaranAM

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ejiyana samudranA TApuomAM 259 pagathiyAM karavAmAM AvyAM hoya. paththaramAMthI cUno maLe eTale makAnone, devaLone cUnAthI raMgI zveta rAkhavAnuM teone vadhu game che. samRddhi vadhe eTale spardhA, irSyA, saMgharSa vadhe. A TApuo para varcasva meLavavA, temanI samRddhi lUMTI levA grIsa, iTalI, turkastAna vagere vacce vakhatovakhata yuddho thatAM rahyAM che ane ghaNA lokono saMhAra thayo che. TApuono itihAsa jema sukhada che tema karuNa paNa che. amArI sTImara have hAiDrA baMdare pahoMcavA AvI. sUcanAo apAI. ghaDiyALanA Takore baMdara para sTImarane lAMgaravAmAM AvI. pAMca miniTa paNa AghuMpAchuM nahi. TApu para pharavA mATe eka kalAkano samaya apAyo. be vizALa daravAjA kholavAmAM AvyA. koNe kayA daravAjAmAMthI bahAra nIkaLavAnuM te paNa spaSTa. nIkaLatI vakhate darekane pAsa apAyA ke jethI koI phAlatu mANaso irAdApUrvaka ke ajANatAM bhUlathI sTImaramAM ghUsI na jAya. hAiDrA mATe eka kalAkano samaya ocho lAgyo. paraMtu kinAre eka ja mukhya rastA para pharavAnuM hatuM. sTImara Ave tyAre bhAre avarajavara, pachI sUmasAma. dukAnomAM zokhanI, yAgIrInI cIjavastuo maLe. hAiDrA TApu klAkAranA TApu tarIke oLakhAya che. TekarIothI zobhato A raLiyAmaNo TApu citrakArone gamI jAya evo che. keTalAka citrakAro ahIM AvIne rahe che. jUnA vakhatamAM ahIM ochA loko vasatA, kAraNa ke kayAreka dariyAI pavana joradAra banI jAya che; koIka vAra vAvAjhoDuM paNa thAya che. paraMtu keTalAka zrImaMta mANasoe ahIM pAkAM majabUta makAno bAMdhyAM che, jethI vAvAjhoDAMnI bahu cintA have rahI nathI. havA khAvAnA eka suMdara TApu tarIke te vikhyAta che. badhAM pravAsIo samaya karatAM vahelA pAchA AvI gayAM hatAM. pharavAnuM eTaluM nahotuM ane sTImara cUkI javAnuM kone posAya ? nizcita samaye sTImara UpaDI porosa TApu tarapha. pharI sUcanAo cAlu thai. phoTogrAphara vyakitagata ane samUhagata lAkSaNika mudrAvALA phoTA pADato jato hato. epolonA Delosa TApu vize mAhitI ApatAM gAiDe kahyuM, 'eka kALe DelosamAM epolonuM bhavya maMdira hatuM. emAM epolonI vizALa mUrti hatI. Delosa bahu samRddha hatuM, enI pavitratA jALavavA mATe ApaNA mAnyAmAM na Ave evo kAyado prAcIna kALamAM thayo hato. e kAyadA pramANe Delosane prasUti ane mRtyu jevI azucimaya ghaTanAthI abhaDAvI zakAya nahi. eTale e be upara tyAM pratibaMdha hato. sagarbhA strIone ane maraNapathArIe paDelA vRddhone veLAsara tyAMthI khaseDI bAjunA TApu para mokalavAmAM AvatAM. Avo vicitra kAyado loko zraddhApUrvaka pALatA. aneka zrImaMta mANaso moMdhI moghI bheTa epolone dharAvavA mATe dUra dUrathI AvatA. ethI Delosa TApu bahu zrImaMta banI gayo hato. paraMtu eka pradezanI samRddhi bIjAthI khamAya nahi. dAnata bagaDe.

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260 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana I.sa. pUrve 88 nI sAlamAM ponTasa rAjyanA rAjAe moTA sainya sAthe Delosa para caDAI karI. maMdira khaMDita thayuM. samRddhi lUMTAI. hajAro nAgarikonI katala thaI. Delosa TApu lohIthI kharaDAyo. enI pavitratA naSTa thaI gaI. TApu ujjaDa ane kaMgALa banI gayo. pharI Delosa potAnI asala samRddhi ane teja kayAreya prApta na karI zakyo.' caDatI paDatInI vAta bIjA eka TApu vize paNa kahevAmAM AvI. enuM nAma siphanosa (Sifnos). prAcIna kALamAM tyAM prajA bahu garIba hatI. evAmAM e beTamAM keTalIka sonAnI khANo maLI AvI. sonuM nIkaLatAM loko jotajotAmAM zrImaMta banI gayA. teo dharmazraddhALu hatA. temaNe nakkI karyuM ke grIsanA taLapradezamAM DelphImAM AvelA maMdiramAM sonAnI koI AkarSaka vastu banAvIne bheTa dharAvavI. ethI teonI samRddhi vadhatI gaI. eka vakhata teo DelphInA maMdiramAM bheTa dharAvI stuti karatA hatA tyAM devavANI thaI, 'he siphanosavAsIo ! Avate varSe tame zAhamRganA IMDA jeTalI moTI ane sAva sonAnI AkRti mane bheTa tarIke dharAvajo !" A devavANI sAMbhaLI siphanosavAsIo stabdha thaI gayA. temane thayuM ke devane paNa have sonAno lobha lAgyo che. bIjI bAju teo paNa jAya tevA nahotA. teoe mAMhomAMhe maLIne khAnagI yukti karI. teoe IMDAnA AkArano ArasanA paththara ghaDAvyo. enA upara sonAno DhoLa caDAvyo. bIje varSe parvanA divase teoe devane sonAnuM IMDuM bheTa dharAvyuM. e vakhate pharI devavANI thaI, he siphanosavAsIo ! tamane lobha vaLagyo che. tame mArI sAthe chetarapiMDI karI che. tame paththara para sonAno gileTa karIne lAvyA cho e huM jANuM chuM. tame mArI kasoTImAMthI pAra na paDI zakyA. huM tamane zApa ApuM chuM ke havethI tamArI sonAnI khANo khalAsa thaI jaze.' AthI siphanosavAsIo gabharAI gayA. badhA bhakato vacce temanI ijjata gaI. pachIthI banyuM paNa barAbara zApa pramANe. sonuM nIkaLatuM baMdha thaI gayuM. thoDA vakhatamAM ja temanI zrImaMtAI ghaTI gaI ane siphanosa TApu kAyamane mATe jhAMkho paDI gayo. A TApuonI bhAtabhAtanI lAkSaNikatA hoya che. ahIM eka TApu evo che ke tyAMnAM makAnomAM dAkhala thavAno daravAjo nIce nahi paNa be mALa jeTale UMce che. makAnanI bhIMto nakkara, majabUta che. makAnamAM javA mATe lAkaDAnI chUTI nisaraNI rAkhavAmAM Ave che. koIkane prazna thAya ke gharamAM javA mATe ATalI UMcI nisaraNI zA mATe ? rojeroja bahAra javA-AvavAmAM keTalI badhI takalIpha paDe ? vaLI gharamAM dAkhala thavAno daravAjo paNa eTalo nAno ke vAMkA vaLyA vagara dAkhala na thaI zakAya. paNa ghara bAMdhanArAone lAgyuM haze ke ATalI takalIpha uThAvavI sArI. jUnA vakhatamAM dariyAI cAMciyAo jema madha dariye vahANo lUMTI letA tema nAnA TApuo para jaI lokone paNa

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ejiyana samudranA TApuomAM 261 lUMTI letA. gharavakharI paNa upADI jatA. strIo para baLAtkAra karatA. Ano upAya zo karavo ? lokoe svarakSaNano rasto zodhI kADhyo. dariyAmAM cAMciyAnuM vahANa AvatuM dekhAya eTale niyata karelo nirIkSaka jorathI ghaMTa vagADe. khetaromAM ane anyatra kAma karatA badhA mANaso tarata potapotAnA gharamAM caDI jAya ane nisaraNIo gharanI aMdara khaseDI levAya. cAMciyAo Ave, ATalI UMcI dIvAla caDI na zake. teo phAve nahi eTale nirAza thaI cAlyA jAya, kadAca koI tophAna macAve to uparathI dhagadhagatI vastuo pheMkAya. A vAta sAMbhaLatAM lAgyuM ke dareka prajAmAM svarakSaNa mATe potAnA vaiyaktika upAyo zodhI kADhavAnI kuneha rahelI che. amArI sTImara porosa baMdare pahoMcI. amane eka kalAkano samaya apAyo. porosa TApunI lAkSaNikatA e che ke te taLa bhUminI sAva najIka Avelo che. dariyAnI sAva sAMkaDI paTTI vaccethI pasAra thAya che. ApaNe sTImaramAM beThAM hoIe, bedhyAna hoIe ane koIe kahyuM na hoya ke ahIM sAMkaDI sAmudradhunI che to evo bhrama thAya ke ApaNI sTImara rastA para to nathI cAlatI ne ? sAmudradhunInI baMne bAju be nAnI nAnI TekarIo para nagara vasyAM che. ekanuM nAma porosa ane bIjAnuM nAma melATA. khetI ane Dhorauchera temano mukhya vyavasAya che. lIMbu, oliva vagerenAM vRkSo ahIM sArAM thAya che. ahIM moTarakAra jevAM vAhano nathI. page cAlIne ja badhe javAnuM.' kinArA paranA rastA para laTAra mArI ame pAchA sTImaramAM pahoMcI gayA. have amArI sTImare ejinA TApu tarapha prayANa karyuM. bhojanano samaya thayo eTale e mATe sUcanA apAI. judA judA jUthanA judA judA naMbara pramANe dareke bhojana mATe javAnuM hatuM. badhuM evuM vyavasthita ke vilaMba thAya nahi ane sarvane saMtoSa thAya. bhojana pachI jeone jhokuM khAvuM hoya temane mATe eka khaMDamAM sophA ane ArAmakhurazInI sagavaDa hatI. keTalAke eno lAbha levo cAlu karyo. bIjAM keTalAMka Amatema, uparanIce pharatAM hatAM. phoTogrAphara jAgatAM ane UMghatAM evA ghaNAMne kemerAmAM jhaDapI leto hato. bhojananA virAma pachI lokasaMgIta ane lokanRtyano kAryakrama zarU thayo. uparanI kebinamAM holanI jema khurazIo goThavAI gaI. tema chatAM keTalAMkane UbhA rahevuM paDyuM. amArAmAMnA keTalAMke aMdara jagyA meLavI lIdhI. meM UbhAM UbhAM emanAM saMgItanRtyanI lAkSaNikatAno paricaya karI lIdho. be gIta sAMbhaLyA pachI huM bahAra Avyo. mAre mATe samudradarzana paNa eTaluM ja AhalAdaka hatuM. ejiyana samudranI taDakAvALI AbohavA mane to bhAratanI AbohavAne maLatI lAgI. prAcIna samayamAM AvI anukULa havAmAM ja jIvana sArI rIte pAMgarI zakatuM ane prajAno sAMskRtika vikAsa thato. bahAra Deka para mArI jema bIjAM paNa keTalAMka pravAsIo beThAM hatAM. pAse beThelA

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26ra pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana eka vaDIla sadagRhasthano paricaya thayo. teo grIsanA ja vatanI hatA. pahelAM eka TApumAM rahetA hatA. have ethensamAM rahe che. koI koI vakhata samudramAM ane TApuomAM ghUmavAnuM mana thAya to AvI rIte pravAsamAM joDAI jAya che. emanI sAthe TApuonA jIvana vize vAto thatAM keTalIka rasika bAbato jANavA maLI. A samudranA dvIpI (Islander) lokone bilADI pALavAno zokha ghaNo che. teo ene zukanavaMtI mAne che. keTalAka pAdarIo bilADIo rAkhe che. eka TApumAM evo vicitra niyama che ke pALelAM pazupakSIomAM phakta bilADInI ja vastI vadhavI joIe. eTale bilADI sivAya bIjAM koI mAdA pazupakSI e TApu para lAvI zakAya nahi. chellAM eka hajAra varSathI A niyama paLAto Avyo che. pazupakSI vize vAta nIkaLatAM bIjA eka TApunI rasika ghaTanA emaNe kahI. A samudramAM mikonosa nAmano eka nAno TApu che. I.sa. 1950mAM tyAM evI eka ghaTanA banI ke eka pelikana pakSI vAvAjhoDAthI bacavA mATe UDatuM UDatuM A TApu para AvI pahoMcyuM. AvuM navI jAtanuM pakSI joI loko bahu rAjI thaI gayA. lokoe ene bhAvatuM khavaDAvI-pivaDAvIne evuM sAcavyuM ke divase UDIne e game tyAre AsapAsa jAya paNa sAMje to TApu para ja hoya, potAnA pradezamAM e pAchuM gayuM nahi. lokoe enuM nAma pADyuM "peTrosa'. peTrosa eTaluM badhuM lADakuM banI gayuM ke bahAranA koI atithi ke pravAsI Ave to loko emane peTrosa batAve. eka divasa peTrosa UDIne gayuM, paNa sAMje pAchuM AvyuM nahi. cAre bAjunA TApuomAM tapAsa thaI. khabara paDI ke pAsenA Tinosa TApumAM e gayuM hatuM tyAre lokoe ene pakaDIne enAM thoDAM pIMchAM kADhI nAkhyAM ke jethI e bahu UDI na zake. AthI mikonosanA yuvAno roSe bharAyA. Tinosa para sazastra AkramaNa karI pakSIne pAchuM meLavavA emaNe taiyArI karI. e vAtanI khabara paDatAM TinosanA meyare potAnA dvIpavAsIo sAthe masalata karIne nirNaya karyo ke hArIne pakSI pAchuM ApavuM ane kAyamanI duzmanAvaTa vahoravI enA karatAM bahumAnapUrvaka pakSI pAchuM ApI devuM. temaNe mikonosavAsIone enI jANa karI dIdhI ane pakSIne laIne vahANamAM AvI pahoMcyA. ethI AnaMdita thayelA mikonosavAsIo baMdara para ekatra thaI, DholanagArAM sAthe vAjategAjate peTrosane nagarapraveza - dviIpapraveza karAvyo. peTrosa sAthe lokone eTalI badhI AtmIyatA thaI ke teone lAgyuM ke peTrosa moTo thayo che mATe enAM lagna karAvavA joIe. loko tapAsa karIne eka mAdA pelikanane laI AvyA. enI sAthe peTrolanAM dhAmadhUmathI lagna karAvyAM. samagra mikonosamAM lagnotsava UjavAyo. paraMtu mANasomAM bane che evuM pazupakSIomAM paNa bane che. peTrola ane enI patnI vacce keTaloka vakhata sAro premasaMbaMdha rahyo. pachI koNa jANe zuM thayuM te

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ejiyana samudranA TApuomAM 263 peTrosa risAI gayo. mAdAe ane manAvavA bahu divasa prayatno karyA, paNa peTrosa enI sAme jue paNa nahi. AthI AghAta lAgatAM mAdAe peTrosa AgaLa ja ApaghAta karyo. kevI rIte ? UMce UDI e jamIna para traNa vAra vegathI paTakAI. ethI enI cAMca tUTI gaI. enuM mAthuM bhAMgI gayuM. A rIte mAdAe potAnA jIvanano aMta ANyo, ethI peTrosa du:khI thayo ane e paNa jhAjhuM jIvyo nahi. peTrola pakSInI A vAta sAMbhaLI pakSIomAM paNa rahelI mAnavasahaja tIvra saMvedanazIlatAno khyAla AvyA. vAtomAM samaya kayAM pasAra thaI gayo tenI khabara nA rahI. jAherAta thaI ane thoDI vAramAM ejinA TApu para ame AvI pahoMcyAM. amArI sTImara halve sAronika akhAtamAM pravezI cUkI hatI. sTImaramAMthI nIkaLIne ame baMdara para pahoMcyAM. ejinA TApu paurANika ane aitihAsika mahattvano che. 85 corasa kilomITaranA pradezavALo ane bAra hajAranI vastI dharAvato, sAronika akhAtano A moTAmAM moTo TApu ochA samayamAM page cAlIne joI zakAya nahi. e mATe basanI TUra levI ja paDe. ame TikiTi laI emAM joDAyA ane badhe pharI vaLyA. ejinAmAM eka TekarI para lagabhaga aDhI hajAra varSa pUrve, eTale ke I.sa. pUrve 40mAM baMdhAyeluM aphAIyA (Aphaia) devInuM maMdira che. te ethensanA pArthenona (Parthenon) karatAM paNa vaheluM baMdhAyuM hatuM. grIka sthApatyakalA ane zilpakalA tyAre keTalI ucca koTie pahoMcI hatI enI pratIti e karAve che. e maMdiranA 3ra UMcA moTA staMbhamAMthI 22 jeTalA staMbha haju paNa jema hatA tema che. e jotAM ja maMdiranI bhavyatAno khyAla Ave che. vaLI AzcaryanI vAta e che ke UMcAI para bAMdhavAmAM AvelAM traNa grIka prAcIna maMdiro (ethensanuM prArthanAna, ejinAnuM esAIyA maMdira ane soyuniyana bhUziranuM paoNliDonanuM maMdira) trikoNAkAre barAbara samAntare che. e batAve che ke A vidyA temanI pAse keTalI cokkasAIbharelI hatI. jyAre havAmAna atyaMta svaccha hoya che tyAre e maMdiro ahIMthI dekhAya che. ejino TApumAM bIjuM eka aitihAsika sthaLa te saMta ejiyo nekAriosanI monesTarI (maTha) che. saMta tyAM bAvIsa varSa rahyA hatA, emanI pAse mAMdA mANasane sAjA karavAnI zakti hatI. ethI ja I.sa. 1921mAM emanA svargavAsa pachI emane saMtanuM biruda ApavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. ejinA TApu para Thera Thera pistAnAM vRkSo hatAM. pistAnAM jhUmakhAMthI lacI paDatAM madhyama kadanAM hArabaM vRkSothI ejinA vadhu sohAmaNo lAgato hato. A vRkSo mATe

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264 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe uttarAlekhana taDako anivArya che. ahIMnI jamIna ane AbohavA paNa e mATe anukULa che. enjinA pistAM mATe prakhyAta che. basamAM ame pharatAM hatAM tyAre judA judA aMtare AvatAM nAnAM nAnAM khristI devaLo batAvIne gAiDe kahyuM, 'jUnA vakhatanAM khAlI paDelAM AvAM 38 devaLo A TApu para che.' 'ATalo nAno TApu ane ATalAM badhAM devaLo ? khristI dharmamAM ATalA badhA phAMTA che ?' koIka prazna karyo. - 'hAla 38 devaLa astitvamAM che. baMdhAyAM hatAM tyAre to kula 365 devaLa hatAM.' gAIDe kahyuM. bApa re ! to to lokomAM dharmanA bahu jhaghaDA thatA haze ! dareka kuTuMbanuM potAnuM. juduM devaLa haze !' koIke kahyuM. 'amAre tyAM bhAratamAM bhagavAna mahAvIranA vakhatamAM 363 paMtha hatA. e badhAnA eka eka pratinidhie ahIM punar avatAra to nahi dhAraNa karyo hoya ne ?' meM majAkamAM kahyuM. gAiDe khulAso karatAM kahyuM, 'nA, tyAre ahIM koI vADA ke paMtha nahotA. badhA eka ja hatA. vastI bahu ochI ane jIvana ekavidha hatuM. eTale emAM vaividhya ANavA mATe lokoe eka navo nusakho zodhI kADhyo. roja navA devaLamAM prArthanA karavI. AkhuM varSa A rIte cAle. mATe naMbara pramANe 365 devaLa karyAM. devaLo nAnAM nAnAM ane pAse pAse. dareka devaLano pAcho bIjA varase naMbara lAge, paNa sAphasUphI rojeroja thAya. badhAMe javAbadArI vaheMcI lIdhelI.' ejinAno A nusakho mane bahu gamI gayo. TApunAM darzana karI ame pAchA sTImaramAM beThAM. have prayANa thayuM ethensa tarapha. phoTA mATe sUcanA apAI ke 'borDa para badhA phoTA mUkavAmAM AvyA che. jemane kharIdavA hoya te kharIdI zake che. kharIdavAnuM baMdhana nathI.' ame amArA keTalAka phoTA kharIdyA. samayasara ame ethensa AvI pahoMcyAM. bhUtakALane tAdaza karI ApanAro A rasika, samRddha anubhava vAraMvAra vAgoLavA jevo banI gayo.

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pAsapaoNiI pote ech n4], ESCRIPTION vivaraNa 344003 PHOTOGRAPH OF) BEARER. vAhaka kA phoTo Werft Wife Runodzic ANES COMIS CUSTO anada COUVE IMMIGO R.C. shah -ramaNalAla ca.zAha