Passportni Pankhe Part 1

Author(s): Ramanlal C Shah
Publisher: Mumbai Jain Yuvak Sangh
Catalog link: https://jainqq.org/explore/002036/1

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ULZUIGUI ului VISITOR - Pern MIGRATION OFFICER HONGKO:S * . WLYTI W -ZHOICICU ZI. ELE TV WILL PAY TO TADO CT TOT TIercm R.C. Sheria 1724605 MM RACH 1:800000080:: 1724605 MM AVR-INDIA THEATS OFFICTION pAsaporTa PASSPORT In: 11 JUL 329 -22bhArata 12_1179 INDIA SHAH MRRC apekSA - 1 Dar gapredAna kara ys DAY NEW YORK_ CHICAGO opeuteen the BIEE AZO ble of Trudia ve the lato XC757 20 UALIA 20. UA3 RO UA 6o. THIC 2o of which FE pAlporTakA manbara NO PASSPORT } Q 825161 SHAHRAMAN. LAL NAME OF BEARER .........CHZMANLAL. sAtha usakI phanI janma nAma) .. ACCOMPANIES (MAIDE * Veluw KCNI WENT OF INDIA QOME MEMENT DE L'INDI BDOBAY MINISTRY OF HEALTH MINISTERI CEL SANTE PUBLIQUE MD EPORUM.RU NO 019958 i frat YOSHOFEROW THE PUBLICA . PAHLIANI) Da Lu Xu Ke MITTED "WOW, 1930 NATIONAL SANITARY REGULATIONS MENT SANITAIRE INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL CERTIFICATE OF VACCINATION CERTIFICATS INTERNATIONAUS & VACCINATION Sony. kyczne S e ducation International For Private Ingres, SHAH RAMANLAL NO. a

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe lekhaka ramaNalAla cI. zAha prakAzaka zrI muMbaI jena yuvaka saMgha 385, saradAra vallabhabhAI paTela mArga muMbaI-400 004 mukhya vikretA Ara. Ara. zeThanI kaMpanI muMbaI-400 002 * amadAvAda-380 001

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PASSPORT NEE PANKHE (A Collection of foreign travel experiences) by Dr. RAMANLAL C. SHAH Published by : Shree Mumbai Jain Yuvak Sangh 385, Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Road, MUMBAI-400 004 Third Edition : March 1998 Price : Rs. 150=00 trIjI AvRtti - mArca 1998 kiMmata : rU. 150-00 (rUpiyA doDhaso) NO COPYRIGHT lekhakanAM sarva lakhANonAM anuvAda, saMkSepa, saMpAdana ke punarmudraNa | mATe koI kopIrAiTa rAkhavAmAM AvyA nathI. prakAzaka : cImanalAla je. rAha zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha 385, saradAra vallabhabhAI paTela mArga muMbaI-400 004 mukhya vikretA : Ara. Ara. zeThanI kaMpanI muMbaI 400 002 * amadAvAda-380 001 TAIpa-seTiMga : aMkana grAphiksa ghIkAMTA, amadAvAda-380 001 mudraka : yunika ophaseTa ena. Ara. esTeTa, tAvaDIpurA, zAhIbAga, amadAvAda-380 004

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arpaNa pUjya bAI (zrImatI lIlAbahena gaphurabhAI mahetA) tathA zrI mahendrabhAI gaphurabhAI mahetA a.sau. AzAbahena mahendrabhAI mahetA sasneha arpaNa tamArA saujanya saphaLa banatI sarva sapharo

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kaoNpIrAiTanuM visarjana mArA pragaTa thayela sarva graMtho ane anya sarva lakhANonAM anuvAda, saMkSepa, saMpAdana, punaHprakAzana ItyAdi mATenA koI paNa prakAranA kaoNpIrAiTa havethI rAkhavAmAM AvyA nathI. anya koI vyaktine ke koI prakAzakane koI paNa graMthanI prathama AvRtti mATe kopIrAITa ApelA hoya to tenuM paNa visarjana karavAmAM AvyuM che. have pachI prakAzita thanArA mArA koI paNa lakhANa mATe kopIrAITa raheze nahi. muMbaI tA. 1-10-1992 ramaNalAla cI. zAha

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ekAMkIsaMgraha * zyAma raMga samIpe jIvanacaritra-rekhAcitra-saMsmaraNa gulAmono muktidAtA hemacaMdrAcArya * * * * pravAsa-zodhasaphara * * * DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAhanAM pustako * * vaMdanIya hRdayasparza, bhA. 1-2 berathI brigeDiyara tiviheNa vaMdAmi * * evaresTanuM ArohaNa uttaradhruvanI zodha-saphara nibaMdha sAMprata sahaciMtana, bhAga 1thI 9 * abhiciMtanA * * baMgAku-mi 1962nuM graMthastha vADmaya * sAhitya-vivecana gujarAtI sAhityanuM rekhAdarzana (anya sAthe) ApaNAM phAgukAvyo * narasiMha pUrvenuM gujarAtI sAhitya * paDilehA * samayasuMdara * kritikA naLa-damayaMtInI kathAno vikAsa upAdhyAya zrI yazovijayajI zrI mohanalAlajI mahArAja zeTha motIzAha * prabhAvaka sthaviro, bhA. 1thI 5 * * * pAsaporTanI pAMkhe pradeze jaya-vijayanA * saMzodhana-saMpAdana nala-davadaMtI rAsa (samayasuMdarakRta) kuvalayamALA (udyotanasUrikRta) nala-davadaMtI prabaMdha (guvinayakRta) thAvaccAsuta riSi copAI (samayasuMdarakRta) nalAya-davadaMtI caritra (RSivardhanasUrita) dhannA-zAlibhadra copAI (guvanayakRta) be laghu rAsakRtio (jJAnasAgarakRta ane kSamAkalyANakRta) * * nala-davadaMtI prabaMdha (vijayazekharakRta) * * . V rANakapura tIrtha osTreliyA jaMbusvAmI rAsa (yazovijayajIkRta) mRgAvatIcaritra copAI (samayasuMdarakRta)

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drds * *(chaThThI AvRtti) * naina dharma hindI AvRtti) * naina dharma (marAThI AvRtti) * bauddha dharma * nihnavavAda * Shraman Bhagvan Mahavir & Jainism * Buddhism - An Introduction * Jina-Vachana * jinatattva, bhAga 1-2-3-4-5-6 * tAo darzana * kaphyuziyasano nItidharma + adhyAtmasAra, bhAga 1 sarasvatIcaMdra, bhAga 1 (pATadyasaMkSepa) zahula sAMkRtyAyana (sAhitya akAdamI, dilhI) * bhAratanI rASTrIya saMskRti (nezanala buka TUra, dilI) saMpAka a dhikAo * zabdaloka * ciMtanayAtrA * nirAjanA * akSarA * avagAhana * jIvanadarpaNa * kavitAlI * samayaciMtana * tattvavicAra ane abhivaMdanA * mahattarA zrI mRgAvatI zrIjI * jaina sAhitya samAroha, guracha 1-2-3-4 * zrI vijayAnaMdasUri svargArohaNa zatAbdI graMtha prakIrNa : ena.sI.sI. * jena lagnavidhi VI

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'pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'mAM pragaTa thayelA videzapravAsanA mArA vividha anubhavaprasaMgo lakhatAM lakhAI gayA che. e pustakarUpe pragaTa thAya che tethI AnaMda anubhavuM chuM. nivedana (prathama AvRtti prasaMge) I. sa. 1968mAM jApAnanI eka saMsthA taraphathI niyaMtraNa maLyuM tyAre bhArata bahAra javAnI pahelI taka maLI. tyAra pachInA lagabhaga doDha dAyakA jeTalA samayamAM jaina dharma ane bauddha dharma vize vyAkhyAno ApavA, pI. I. ena.nI AMtararASTrIya koMgresamAM bhAratIya pratinidhi tarIke bhAga levA, alimpika ramatagamato jovA, mitro ane sagAMone maLavA ema judAM judAM nimitte lagabhaga AkhI duniyAnA ghaNAkharA dezono pravAsa karavAnI ane tyAMnuM lokajIvana najare nihALavAnI sarasa taka vAraMvAra soMpaDI. videzamAM hoIe tyAre tyAMnI prajA, enI raheNIkaraNI, tyAMnAM rItarivAja, bhASA, lokamAnasa, lAkSaNika khAsiyato ityAdi ApaNAMthI kevI rIte judAM paDe che tenuM sahaja nirIkSaNa thayA karatuM hoya. temAMthI keTalIka vAto to ApaNA cittamAM eTalI sacoTa rIte aMkita thaI jatI hoya ke tenuM vismaraNa na thAya. AvA je badhA mArA lAkSaNika anubhavonI vAto mitro, saMbaMdhIone kaheto tyAre te lakhIne chapAvavA mATe teo bhalAmaNa karatA. paraMtu eka yA bIjA kAraNe te lakhavAnuM vilaMbamAM paDI jatuM. eka vakhata muMbaImAM mu. zrI umAzaMkara jozI amArA ghare UtaryAM hatA. te samaye emanI ja bhalAmaNathI oNsTreliyA javAno prasaMga mAre prApta thayo hato. mArA e pravAsanA saMdarbhamAM emaNe kahyuM hatuM ke pravAsanAM saMsmaraNo lakhavAmAM vilaMba na karavo joIe. vaLI, pravAsamAM hoIe tyAre bane teTalI vigato DAyarImAM TapakAvI levI joIe, kAraNa ke te vakhate barAbara yAda rahI gayelI keTalIka vigatonuM samaya jatAM vismaraNa thAya che." emanI e zikhAmaNa sAcI hatI ane upayogI lAgI. 66 - sTreliyA jato hato tyAre 'kumAra'nA taMtrI sva. bacubhAI rAvate kahyuM ke 'kumAra'mAM haju sudhI oNsTreliyAnA pravAsa vize kazuM AvyuM nathI. tame pravAsethI pAchA AvIne eka lekhamALA lakhI Apajo." ethI mAro utsAha vadhI gayo. AvIne tarata AsTreliyAnA mArA pravAsa vize lekhamALA meM lakhI ApI ane 'kumAramAM te pAvI zarU thaI. tyAre te vAMcIne 'samarpaNa'nA taMtrI zrI ghanazyAma desAIe kahyuM, "tame videzamAM ghaNuM pharyAM cho to 'samarpaNa' mATe kaMI na lakhI VII

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ApA ?" me kahyuM, "harIndrabhAI dave 'samarpaNa'nA taMtrI hatA tyAre meM emane ApeluM vacana haju paLAyuM nathI. paNa have huM jarUra kaMIka lakhI ApIza." tyAra pachI, vAcakone kazuMka navuM jANavA maLe, vAto jevo rasa paDe ane mAro potAno ja lAkSaNika anubhava hoya evA videzapravAsanA thoDA prasaMgo lakhIne meM emane ApyA. alabatta, tyAre kalpanA nahotI ke krame krame eka pachI eka ema ATalA badhA prasaMgo lakhAze. e lakhAyA temAM zrI ghanazyAma desAInI protsAhaka ugharANIno phALo ghaNo moTo che. emaNe "samarpaNanA ane pachI "navanIta-samarpaNa'nA pratyeka aMkamAM chApavAnuM jo cAlu rAkhyuM na hota ATalA badhA prasaMgo kadAca na lakhAyA hota. zrI ghanazyAmabhAInI mAgaNI to haju paNa cAlu ja che, ane ghaNA bIjA anubhavo vize lakhavAnuM manamAM che paNa kharuM, paraMtu e to have jyAre pharI evI anukULatA maLaze tyAre lakhAze. navanIta-samarpaNa'mAM A badhA prasaMgo chapAtA hatA te daramiyAna bhAratanA ane videzanA aneka gujarAtI vAcakoe patra lakhIne potAnI AnaMdanI lAgaNI vyakta karI che. jijJAsu rasika vAcako taraphathI maLelA Avo patro pasaMta sva. bacubhAI rAvata, zrI viSNuprasAda trivedI, candravadana mahetA, sva. cImanalAla cakubhAI zAha, zrI bhogIlAla sAMDesarA, manubhAI paMcolI (darzaka), mohanalAla mahetA (sopAna), sva. bhRgurAya aMjAriyA, sva. manasukhalAla jhaverI, 'zrI suMdarajI beTAI, umedabhAI maNiyAra, gulAbadAsa brokara, hIrAbahena pAThaka, jayamala paramAra vagere mArA vaDIla sAhityakAroe, anya ghaNA lekhakabaMdhuoe, adhyApaka mitroe, sAhityarasika zubhecchakoe ane sagAM-snehIoe A zreNInA prasaMgo vAMcIne vakhatovakhata potAno sAnaMda pratibhAva vyakta karyo che te mATe te sauno huM AbhArI chuM. - sva. mu. zrI bhRgurAya aMjAriyA 'pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'nI zreNI chapAvI zarU thaI tyArathI pratyeka prasaMga cIvaTapUrvaka vAMcI jatA hatA ane temAM bhASAzailInI daSTie kaMI sudhAravA jevuM hoya to sUcavatA. vaLI Igliza bhASAnAM keTalAMka vizeSa nAmonI adhikRta joDaNI kevI karavI te vize upayogI sucano karatA hatA. emanI sUcanAnusAra evAM vizeSa nAmonI joDaNI A graMthamAM rAkhavAmAM AvI che. alabatta, keTalAye iMgliza zabdonA uccAra ekAdhika rIte judAjudA dezomAM thAya che. eTalA mATe A pustakamAM koI koI sthaLe anya uccAraNo paNa ApavAmAM AvyAM che. sva. bhRgurAya aMjAriyAe puSkaLa samaya ApI, badhuM lakhANa cIvaTapUrvaka tapAsI jaI ne upayogI sUcano karyA te mATe temano atyaMta NI chuM. A zreNI graMtharUpe jovAne mATe teo bahu utsuka hatA. teo jo hayAta hota to temane keTalo badho AnaMda thAta te huM kalpI zakuM chuM. A pravAsagraMtha mATe AzIrvacanarUpa prastAvanA lakhI ApavA mATe pU. zrI VIII

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viSNuprasAda trivedI tathA pU. zrI candravadana mahetAne meM vinaMtI karI hatI, kAraNa ke teo A prasaMgo "navanIta-samarpaNa'mAM vAMcatA hatA. mArI vinaMtIno temaNe svIkAra karyo, ane uMmarane kAraNe tabiyatanI keTalIka pratikULatA hovA chatAM samaya kADhI temaNe baMnee saharSa prastAvanA lakhI ApI che, te mATe te baMne pitAtulya AdaraNIya mahAnubhAvono huM atyaMta RNI chuM. pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'nA A badhA prasaMgo pravAsanA kAlAnukrame goThavavAmAM nathI AvyA, tema ja temAM koI bhaugolika krama paNa rAkhyo nathI. pratyeka prasaMga svataMtra rIte vAMcI zakAya tevo che. vAcakane rasa paDe ane vaividhya jaLavAI rahe e rIte badhA ahIM goThavavAmAM AvyA che. - A badhA prasaMgo lakhAtA hatA te vakhate, "navanIta-samarpaNa'mAM chapAyA pachI paNa, keTalAMka upayogI sUcano kuTuMbanA sabhyoe (patnI, putra, putrI, bhAI vagere jeo eka athavA bIjA pravAsamAM sAthe hatAM temaNe), mitroe, vaDIla lekhakoe, vidyArthIoe, vAcakoe karyA che teo RNasvIkAra paNa ahIM karI lauM chuM. pustakarUpe chapAvatAM pahelAM koI koI prasaMgomAM zAbdika pheraphAro karyA che ane sAmayikamAM ajANatAM rahI gayelA keTalAka mudraNadoSa nivArI levAyA che. "kumAra" vagere keTalAMka sAmayikoe koI koI prasaMgo uddharita karyA hatA te mATe te sAmayikono ane koI koI prasaMgo pAThyapustakomAM levAyA che te mATe te pAThyapustakonA saMpAdakono tathA mahArASTra rAjyanA ejayukezana borDano huM AbhArI videzanA pravAsa mATe to keTakeTalAnA sahakAranI apekSA rahe. mArA videzapravAsomAM mombAsA jaina saMgha, candariyA phAunDezana, pI. I. ena., bauddha dharma sabhA vagere je je nimaMtraka saMsthAo, yajamAno, vividha dezonA sarakArI karmacArIo, mitro, sagAMsaMbaMdhIo vageree mane je sAtha-sahakAra Apyo che teno RNasvIkAra ahIM karI lauM chuM. e badhAMnAM nAmonI yAdI to ghaNI moTI che eTale vyaktigata ullekha karato nathI. alabatta, eka ullekha to avazya karavo joIe ane te mArA parama mitra zrI mahendrabhAI mahetA ane emanAM patnI sau. AzAbahenano. jyAre jyAre videza javAno prasaMga prApta thAya tyAre mArI badhI ciMtA teo mAthe laI letAM. hIrAnI nikAsanA vepArane kAraNe duniyAnA ghaNA dezomAM temanAM sagAM-saMbaMdhIo ane vepArI mitro che, eTale pravAsanuM nakkI thatAM ja teo tAra, TelekSa ke Teliphona dvArA mArI AgatAsvAgatA mATe saMdeza pahoMcADI detA. ethI ajANyA dezanA pravAsamAM mane ghaNI rAhata rahetI. emanA e mitrakArya mATe AbhAranI koI aupacArikatA emane nahi game e huM jANuM chuM. samarpaNa'nA jAnyuArI 1980nA aMkathI navanIta-samarpaNa'nA mArca

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1983nA aMka sudhI 'pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'nI zreNI chapAI ane have te graMtharUpe pragaTa thAya che. lagabhaga sADA traNa varSanA A gALAmAM e mATe ghaNAMno saprema sahakAra sAMpaDyo che. A prasaMgo pustakarUpe jhaTa pragaTa thAya e mATe citra vagerenI keTalIka javAbadArI upADI lenAra mArA mitra DaoN. kumArapALa desAIno, "navanIta-samarpaNannA kAryAlayanA sabhyo pro. bhUpendrabhAI upAdhyAya, sva. naTavaralAla zelata, zrI jayendra sacadeno, A graMthanuM prakAzana hAtha dharavA mATe Ara. Ara. zeThanI kaMpanI ane enA zrI bhagatabhAI zeTha tathA zrI dhIrubhAI modIno, presakopI taiyAra karavAmAM sahAya karavA mATe zrI gulAba deDhiyA, ku. vimaLA paTela tathA ku. mInAkSI sacadeno, suMdara TAITalacitra karI ApavA mATe zrI jaya paMcolIno, tathA A graMthanuM mudraNakArya sarasa rIte saveLA karI ApavA mATe svAti prinTiMga presanA DaoN. zivalAla jesalapurA tathA zrI girIza jesalapurAno paNa huM AbhArI chuM. muMbaI : tA. 14-4-83 ramaNalAla cI. zAha caitra suda 1, saM. 2039 bIjI AvRtti prasaMge A pustakanI prathama AvRtti lagabhaga cAra mahinA jeTalA TUMkA samayamAM pUrI thaI gaI e mATe vAcakono atyaMta RNI chuM. mArA mitra pro. jazavaMtabhAI zekhaDIvAlAe AkhuM pustaka cAra vAra cIvaTapUrvaka zabdazaH vAMcI jaI keTalAMka upayogI sUcano karyA che te mATe temano bahu AbhArI chuM. tA. 3-2-1984 -lekhaka trIjI AvRtti prasaMge bIjI AvRtti prakAzita thayA pachI thoDA ja vakhatamAM enI badhI nakalo vecAI gaI hatI. chellAM dasa varSathI A graMtha aprApya banI gayo hato. eTale zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha taraphathI A enI trIjI AvRtti prakAzita thAya che. e mATe saMghanA hoddedAro ane samitinA sarva sabhyono huM RNI chuM. A graMthanA mudraNanI vyavasthA mATe DaoN. zivalAla jesalapurAno ane vecANanI vyavasthA mATe Ara. Ara. zeThanI kaMpanIno AbhArI chuM. muMbaI : tA. 18-2-1998 -lekhaka :

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svastha pravAsI zrI ramaNalAla zAha mArA mitra che. Ama to teo muMbaI yunivarsiTInA gujarAtInA prAdhyApaka tarIke jANItA che ane emanAM saMzodhana, saMpAdana ane vivecanakAryathI gujarAtI vicakSaNa vargamAM teo suparicita che. vastutaH emanI pravINatA ane prAjJatA anekamukhI che. emanA vidyAvihAranI AchI noMdha le tene paNa e tarata jaNAya. jagatu-prasiddha naLakathAnA vikAsa upara je sarvagrAhI vicAra kare tenI vidyAno vyApa keTalo haze te samajAze. saMskRta, prAkRta, upabhraMza, jUnI gujarAtI sAhityika kathA, lokakathA e sarvamAM temanI parAmarzaka mati adhikArathI praveze che. dharma vize ane vizeSa karIne jena dharma vize temanuM jJAna vyApaka ane sUkSma che. jaina dharmanA, sAmAnya hiMdune ochA jANItA evA aneka vidyAviSaya, jaina paMDita sAdhuo jeTalA, temane hastAmalakavat che. tethI to temanI saMsArI jainomAM tema jaina sAdhuomAM dhyAnArha pratiSThA che. udAra ane tarkapUta. daSTi pro. zAhanA jJAnane zraddheya rAkhe che, ane tethI tema ja temanI Rju prakRtithI teo muMbaInA jaina samAjanuM netRtva kahI zakAya evuM pada pAmyA che. sva. cImanalAla cakubhAI zAhanuM kAma temane saMbhALavAnuM AvyuM che e hakIkata emanI jJAnasaMpatti, kAryazakti ane pratiSThAnuM dyotaka che. - pro. ramaNalAla zAhanA pAMDityano pravAsa jema moTo che tema temano bhautika, bhaugolika pravAsa paNa anekadika che. e pravAsamAM teo kemerAhata pravAsI nathI, alparavalpa joIne, ubhaDaka noMdho karIne vartamAnapatronI lokacipoSaka kaoNlamabharA pravAsI nathI. duniyAnA ghaNA dezomAM teo pharyA che ane potAnI sakala vighA, daDha bhAvanA ane komala saMvedanazakti laIne pharyA che, potAnA samagra ane svastha vyaktitvane laIne pharyA che. bhAvakoSamAM navuM pAmavAnI, kazuMka daDha karavAnI nemathI pharyo che. keTalAka dezomAM teo babbe traNatraNa vAra gayA che, ane jyAM gayA che tyAM bhAratIya saMskArasamRddhinI tema ja potAnA prasanna ane jijJAsu sattvanI chApa pADI che. gujarAtI pravAsasAhitya samRddha kahI zakAya evuM che. kalApI, kAlelakara, candravadana, umAzaMkara, kizanasiMha, svAmI AnaMda vagerenI sAthe bhAI ramaNalAla have bese che. A graMthamAM emanuM vaizisya emanA jIvana-abhigamamAM, ruci-viSayomAM tathA lakhANanI rItizailImAM varatAya che. XI

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zrI DaoN. ramaNalAla zAhanA A pravAsapustakane huM AvakAruM chuM, mitra tarIke ja nahi, dezajana tarIke. pratyeka videzI pravAsI potAnA samAjanI saMskRtino, tenI vidyA ane nItirItino pratinidhi che. sujJa, prAjJa, samabhAvI, virekI ramaNalAla zAha jevA pravAse jAya tyAre ApaNA dezanI viziSTatAnI kaMIka jhAMkhI paradezIone thatI haze. bhAI ramaNalAla jyAM gayA tyAM saMparkamAM AvelA videzIone ApaNAM dharma, nIti, vidyA, rAjakAraNa vagereno aNasAra maLyo haze. videzI jIvanapaddhatiomAM rUDuM ane svIkArayogya zuM che te paNa AvA pratinidhi jANI lAve che. e navA saMskAranI havA anAyAsa dezamAM prasere che. vaLI, ApaNA dezanI atiprazaMsA ke videzI jIvana vizenI keTalIka bhramaNAonuM thoDuM nirasana paNa thAya che. sAmUhika jIvananI, dhImaMta zrImaMta tema ja zramikonA jIvananI tarehomAM ApaNe ghaNuM haju zIkhavAnuM che; to dhArmika ane kauTumbika jIvanabhAvanAo aMge ApaNe kadAca ApavAnuM paNa che. kolAhala ane saMgharSa to sarvatra che. koI deza bacyo nathI, paNa sAcI zAnti ane sAcI mAnavIya pragati mATe mAtra kalpanAtaraMgo (fancies) ke saMpratyayo (concepts) nahi paNa dizA, gati ane vega ApI zake evuM kaMIka bhArata pAse che; e tene vArasAmAM maLeluM che. pro. ramaNabhAI zAha jevA sAcA pravAsIo ApaNI A saMpattino vaizvika viniyoga karavAmAM, viniyoganA vyApAramAM sahAyaka thaI zake. viSNuprasAda 2. trivedI tA. 10-4-1983 maMtrI, surata-1 XII

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eka anokho pravAsagranthA jUnA jamAnAnI vAtomAM bhAratano pravAsI laMkA, jAvA, sumAtrA gayo, pariyAM-pariyAM khAya eTaluM vahANo bharI dhana pedA karI lAvyo; pelI satyanArAyaNanI kathAmAMnA sAdhu-vANiyAnI vAtamAMye eNe lAMbo pravAsa kheDyo. dharmadatta nAme eka brAhmaNe pezAvarathI kAbula-gAMdhAra thaI upara bAmiyAmAM rahI, pekiMga pharI, sAibiriyAnA chaso-sAtaso mAIla lAMbA baeNkAla sarovara pAse mukAma karI tyAM gaNezanI tathA sarasvatInI pUjA zarU karI hatI, evuM vivekAnaMda smAraka aMkamAMnA lekhamAM jANavA maLe che. baeNkAla te vaDavAnalano apabhraMza ema paNa emAMthI jANavA maLe che. pravAsa-pravAsamAM paNa pharaka hoya che. koI dharma phelAvavA jAya, koI dhana kamAvA jAya, thoDA dhana kharacavA paNa jAya ane emAMno eka bhAga pRthvInA vizALa paTe patharAyelA sauMdaryathI bharapUra sthAno jovA jAya, to bIjo bhAga e sthAno jovA kharo, paNa sAthe anubhava ane jJAna-saMpAdana karavA paNa jAya. emAM potAne to adako lAbha, paNa bIjAne paNa e lAbhamAMthI bhAga ApavAno stutya hetu paNa pAra pADato rahe. jema pAnAM ramavAno eka zokha che, ghoDadoDanI zarato ramavA-jovAno zokha che, evA zabdomAM pravAsano paNa zakha dharAvanArAo che. e zakha keLavyuM keLavAto nathI. bALapaNamAM vaDIlo thoDAka sArA saMskAro sIMce to e zaMkha sArA pramANamAM phaLadAyI thaI rahyAnA dAkhalAo maLe che. e zakhamAM sAhase, audArya, lokamAnasano abhyAsa ane keTalAka kaparA saMjogomAM gama khAI javAnI tema ja saMyamanI Teva Avazyaka che. Ama ajANatAM keTalAkane yoganI kriyAnAM lakSaNo anAyAsa prApta thatAM rahe che. chAzavAre muMbaI, dilhI, kalakattA, madrAsathI rAunDa dha varlDa'nI "Tripa' niyojanArA TrAvela-ejanTo have to Thera Thera UbharAya che. pacAsa-sAThanuM ToLuM upADI jAya. nizcita hoTala, nizcita sthaLa, nizcita samaya; moTe bhAge kanTrAkI vahIvaTa; emAM have vaLI potAno rasoiyo, brAhmaNa ke abrAhmaNa, enI paNa vyavasthA jovA-jANavA maLe che. paMDita madanamohana mAlaviyA, kahe che ke rAunDa Tebala kaoNnpharansamAM gayA tyAre gaMgAjaLanA tAMbaDA bharI laI gayA hatA. to bIje pakSe amArA anubhavamAM bhAratamAM eka karatAM vadhAre pravAsIo amerikAthI XIII

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kokAkolA, soDA-lemaneDanA bATalAnA DhagalA laIne bhAratamAM AvatA jANyA che. amukane amuka prakAranuM ja khAvAnI Teva, ane amuka prakAranA pANImAM amuka prakAranA jIvajaMtujIvAta hovAno bhaya - e paNa emane mubAraka, khanakhaniyAM hoya to e paNa pAlave. paraMtu sAmAnya vyakti to amuka prakArano saMyama, vizALa manovyApAra, udAra dRSTi ane jhINavaTabharI sUjha keLavI pravAsa kare to ene potAne lAbha, bIjAne paNa aneka prakAre upayogI thaI, bhalabhaluM anubhavanuM paMcAmRta meLavI lAve che. - DaoN. ramaNabhAI zAha, kuTuMbavatsala eTale nasIbano yoga, eTale eka karatAM be bhalA, traNa bhalA, badhA eka mananA, ethI raste takarAra taravarATa nahi, zAMtithI "rAunDa dha varlDa'nI Tripa niyojanArAo karatAM sAmAnya jJAna, bhUgoLa-itihAsanuM jJAna, jijJAsAvRtti ane e uparAMta hAsya-sAhasa vRtti vadhAre, eTale pote ja potAnA pravAsakramo goThavyA, ane UpaDyA; kyAMka avanavuM joyuM, to kyAMka gujarAtIonI vaMzaparaMparIya Adata:-"ATaluM laI jajonI, amArAM cAra sagAM bhAratamAM che ene Apazo to ame AbhArI thaIzuM" - e mAlamasAlAmAM TrAnjhisTarathI mAMDI sADI, tharamaoNsa, ramakaDAM - jemAM somAMthI nevuM dAgInA bhAratamAM maLe tevuM hasI vaLagADavAnI vRtti, ane ramaNabhAImAM eTalA ja umaLakAthI nakAravAnI makkama vinodavRtti, vividha dezanA majUro, TeksI DrAIvaro, gaThiyAo, eraporTa-oNphisaro, emAM kumaLA dilanI lalanAo e badhAM bhAratamAMnA keTalAka asaMskArI, uddhata, luccA, svArthI, bhaMbhoTiyA, lobhI, dhutArAo karatAM tyAM jarA paNa UNAM na Utare evAone potIkI sAmAnya buddhi-komanasensa-nI pahoMca sAthe, kadIka sahadharmacAriNInI madadathI pahoMcI vaLavAnI kuneha - evI badhI rasika sAmagrIthI bharapUra A grantha che. alabatta, sAmAnya rIte je prajAmAM vAMcanavRttinI bhAre achata, athavA je vRtti bIjA mojazokhanAM kImatI sAdhano kharIdavAnI zakti chatAM pUratA pramANamAM vAMcavA mATe pustako kharIdavAnI vRtti vikasita nathI, tyAM AvA pustakanI jANakArI thatAM ja maphata meLavIne ye vAMcaze, kiMIka na jANeluM jANaze, kyAMka prasaMga maLe jovA javA uzkerAze e niHzaMka che. nA, A sIdhIsAdI pravAsakathA nathI. tema vhAiTa nAIla ke bla nAIlanAM Ugama sthaLo zodhavA janArA saMzodhakanI paNa kathA nathI. amerikana lekhaka sTAInabeke potAnA nAnA kUtarA sAthe yunAiTeDa sTeTsa khUMdelo. e pravAsamAM jAtajAtanA kissAo, rasabharyA, cAturIthI mahekatA, hAsyachoLothI UbharAtA, chatAM e vAMcatAM e deza-pradezano sAro khyAla Avato jAya -- e svadeze, bIjAnA lAbhArthe. tAjetaramAM, gaI sadImAM bhAratamAM le. karnala slImene lakheluM I XIV

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'rambalsa ina inDiyAnuM pustaka vAMcyuM. paradezI aMgreja, bhAratamAM lazkarI nokarI, nokarImAMthI chUTA thaI bhAratamAM pravAsa kheDelo, ghaNAM hindIone ajANa evI vigatothI bharapUra - dA.ta. hesTiMgsa tAjamahAla Akho vaherI-kApI laMDananA bajAramAM vecavA tAgaDA tarakIbo karelI, AgrAnA zIzamahalano eka bhAga to ukheDI paNa gayelA ! - evI ghaNI ghaNI vigato. sTAInabeka ane slImena baMnenAM dhyeya judAM, judI zailI, ema A pravAsavarNana koI asalI pravAsavarNana sAthe sarakhAvI zakAya nahi. eka judI bhAta pADanArI A lakhAvaTa. e mATe ramaNabhAIne abhinaMdana. leTina amerikA vize ApaNe ghaNuM nathI jANatA. e vize ghaNI vAto A pravAsagranthamAM che. ahIM A granthamAM ApaNI daSTimaryAdA vikasAve evuM lakhANa che. ApaNe ja sAcA, bIjA khoTA evA mamatvathI mukta karAve tevI mAhitI che. ApaNe ApaNI potIkI khAsiyatothI ghaNA ajANa chIe - moTama, khoTA dekhADA, phogaTa abhimAna evAM ghaNAM baMdhanomAM aTavAtA rahyA chIe. emAM A grantha ghaNI rIte mArgadarzana karAve evo che. keTalIka mULabhUta graMthio toDI zake evo che. jApAnanA uccAra vize eka gammata che - vAMcajo. ITa Ijha e rAMga neima. bhAre carcA bAda ramaNabhAIne jJAna thayuM ke jApAnamAM "lano uccAra "ra" che. eTale laoNga' nahi "rAMga" neIma. paNa ApaNe tyAM zuM ? carotara jAo. eka vAra eka carotaravAsI skUla broDakAsTamAM bolelA - bolyA ja kare : candrano goro jyArAmukhIvAro che. eTale ke "candrano goLo jvALAmukhIvALo' che. Ama, udAramAM mAruM to badhe ja hoya - vAMcajo. ahIM kyAMka ADakathAo che. zilpa, sAhitya, vicitra rItarivAja, saMsAramAM banatA na mAnavAmAM Ave evA rivAja, kyAMka koIne moDhe ke gAIDabakomAM na jANavA maLe evI vigato, potAnI meLe pravAsa goThavanArAone ghaNero lAbha thAya evI bAtamI, ApaNI paradezanI sarakArI kacerIo, emAMnA rAtIpaTIbaddha karmacArIo ane paradezI sarakArI kacerIonA sevAbhAvI, madadarUpa thavA tatpara karmacArIo, evI evI ghaNI sarakhAvavA jevI bAbato A granthamAMthI sAMpaDaze. vaLI A noMdhapothI nathI, DAyarI paNa nathI, AtmakathA paNa nathI, kyAMka khabara na paDe evI bodhapothI paNa che, jJAnagoSThi paNa che, jIvanamImAMsA paNa che. ekalAM havAI jahAjomAM je je romAMcaka anubhavo thayA teTalA ja ekaThA karo to eka nAnakaDI havAIpothI paNa thaI zake, evuM ghaNuM che. vaLI A kramabaddha silasilAbaddha pravAsakathA paNa nathI; vividha pradezanAM vidhavidha citro, anubhavo, saMvedano, kyAMka vadhAre paDato "huMno UMTaDo UMcakAto na dekhAya evI taTastha,

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saumya, rasapracura vinodavATikAothI samRddha A anubhavakathA che. bIjuM zuM thAya ? jevI vyakti tevI abhivyakti, jevuM zIla tevI zailI. vAMcI rahyA bAda mArA kahevAmAM kayAMya ajugatuM ke atizayoktivALuM lAge to te vAcake mane jarUra Thapako devo. vaDodarA : tA. 3-2-1983 rAndravadana mahetA dIsai vivaha cariaM jANijjai sajjaNa-dujjaNa viseso / appANaM ca kalijjai hiMDijjai teNa puhavIe // . [pravAsa karavAthI vividha prakAranAM caritro jovAmAM Ave che. sajjana ane durjana vacceno taphAvata samajavAmAM Ave che, tema ja AtmAnI zakti khIle che. mATe pRthvIno pravAsa karavo. dhanyakumAracaritra' - 4tho pallava XVI

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1. pagarakhAM goThavanAra 2. zikAgo jatAM 3. veiTaranuM vAtsalya 4. nepALI dIvI 5. laMDanathI mAncesTara 6. gAtAM phaLa 7. sugaMdha ane durgaMdha 8. beljiyamanI elacI-kacerI 9. vAgdattA mATe bheTa 10. viparyaya 11. gheTAMmuMDana 12. kuTuMbaprema 13. pAnamunajoma 14. sarakArI svacchatA 15. 11mI julAI 1979 16, uccAraNanI khAsiyata 17. yAsnAyA poliyAnA 18. nAirobImAM guMDAgIrI 19 kaLA kharIdInI ane vecANanI 20. magaravADI 21. madharAte mUMjhavaNa 22. pAgmAna-hAmano dhodha 23.mothI zaucakriyA 24. seMTa paulI 25. jipsI sAthe phoTo 26. TIkITIkIne jonArA anukrama XVII nava 8 11 13 17 22 24 27 30 34 40 43 50 53 59 61 N 8 72 76 80 84 91 93 98 101

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105 111 114 122 128 132 136 145 151 155 160 164 168 27. siDanInI pheravela-pArTI 28. zAkAhArI sUpa 29. kurAsAo 30. juAragama 31. oNksapharDa ane kembrija 32. loe loko 33. panAmA 34. digaMbara snAna 35. samayano savAla 36. riomAM rAtre 37. sAvo pArka 38. be koriyana lekhako 39. mamyu-piccha 40. sAo pAulo ane sujhAno 41. phrenca visAnI samasyA 42. bATu guphAo 43. navA varSanI bheTa 44. viSAda ane ullAsa 45. kImatI nAsto 46. baoNgoTAno anubhava 47. siMgApuranI svacchatA 48. vI.AI.pI. rUma 49, bhAkharIno svAda 50. anokhI bheTa 51. limAnA eraporTamAM para. bhAratIya vAikiMga pa3. jakArtAmAM hAIjeka 177 'ja 188 193 206 210 216 219 2 24 227 231 235 240 XVII

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe

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The world is a great never stir from home read book, of which they who only a page. Augustine of Hippo - * I dislike feeling at home when I am abroad. George Bernard Shaw * All travel has its advantages. If the traveller visits better countries, he may learn to improve his own: and if fortune carries him to worse, he may learn to enjoy his own. * The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one's own country as a foreign land. * Samuel Johnson XX If you look your passport photo, then in all probability you need the journey. G. K. Chesterton GD Earl Wilson

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pagarakhAM goThavanAra kA jApAnamAM hirozimA pAse kure nAmanuM gAma che. miTuToyo nAmanI kaMpanInuM tyAM vizALa kArakhAnuM che. miTuToyo jApAnanI AMtararASTrIya khyAti dharAvatI kaMpanI che. jApAnamAM tathA uttara ane dakSiNa amerikAmAM judAM judAM sthaLe enAM ghaNAM kArakhAnAM che. agAuthI nakkI karIne karenA kArakhAnAnI mulAkAte ame pAMca mitro gayA hatA. kArakhAnAmAM pravezatAM ja ame joyuM ke enI vaDI kacerInI bahAra jApAnI dhvaja uparAMta bhAratIya dhvaja paNa te divase pharakAvavAmAM Avyo hato. ophisamAM paNa Tebala upara nAnakaDA jApAnI ane bhAratIya dhvaja mUkavAmAM AvyA hatA. videzanA mahemAnonuM svAgata karavAnI jApAnI lokonI A eka prazasya praNAlikA che. jApAnI rivAja mujaba sau prathama amane oziboruM ApavAmAM AvyuM. oziboruM eTale varALa nIkaLatA garama pANImAM boLelo ane vIMTALIne rAkhelo Tarkiza rUmAla. e rUmAla vaDe moDhuM sApha karatAM tAjhagI anubhavAya che. jApAnamAM mahemAnone sau prathama oziboruM ApavAmAM Ave che. garamI hoya to kolanavoTaravALA ThaMDA pANImAM boLeluM oziboruM apAya che. oziboruM pachI amane ocA ApavAmAM AvI. ocA eTale eka prakAranI lIlI cA. teno lIlA raMgano bhUko garama pANImAM ukALIne apAya che. temAM dUdha ane sAkara nakhAtAM nathI. A lIluM garama pravAhI e jApAnIonuM priya pINuM che. ApaNe je cA pIe chIe tene jApAnamAM kocA kahevAmAM Ave che. jApAnamAM ghaNA loko temAM dUdhane badale lIMbu nicovIne pIe che. ocA ane kocA e baMneno svAda keLavIe to ApaNane paNa te bhAve. ocA pachI amArA mATe senDavica ane kaoNphI AvyAM. kArakhAnAnA menejaranA madadanIza jevo paccIseka varSanI eka yuvAna menejaranI sUcanAnusAra amAre mATe A badhI vastuo lAvavAmAM utsAhapUrvaka doDAdoDI karI rahyo hato. pA-1 -

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pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe menejare kArakhAnA vize amane badhI mAhitI ApI. kArakhAnAmAM judI judI jAtanAM mApa levA mATenAM ojAro banAvavAmAM Ave che. dara mahine nirdhArita utpAdana avazya thAya ja che kema ke majUronA pakSe ke vyavasthA vibhAganA pakSe samayano jarA paNa bagADa thato nathI. menejare kahelI A vAtano amane pratyakSa anubhava paNa thayo. sauprathama je eka vibhAganI ame mulAkAta lIdhI tyAM joyuM ke ekasAthe baso karatAM paNa vadhu kArIgaro kAma karatA hatA, chatAM koI aMdara aMdara vAtacIta karatuM nahotuM. koIe amArI sAme najara sudhdhAM karI nahi. potAne soMpAyeluM kAma kAmadAro tyAM pUrepUrI niSThAthI karatA hatA. tyAra pachI ame bIjA eka vibhAgamAM dAkhala thayA. sUkSmatama mApa mATenAM yaMtrono A Akho vibhAga eNrakanDizanDa hato. eTale amAre amArAM bUTa-caMpala bahAra kADhavAM paDyAM. badalAmAM amane rabaranAM slipara ApavAmAM AvyAM. kArakhAnAmAM bahAranI dhULa ke jhINI rajakaNa pesI na jAya te mATe A vyavasthA hatI. e vibhAgamAMthI ame jyAre bahAra nIkaLyA tyAre amAruM tarata dhyAna paDyuM ke gametema kADhelAM amArAM bUTa-caMpala koIke barAbara evI vyavasthita rIte hArabaMdha goThavelAM hatAM ke bahAra nIkaLatAM te sIdhAM ApaNA pagamAM paherAya. paheravA mATe avaLA pharavuM na paDe. jApAnamAM gharanI bahAra pagarakhAM kADhavAnI A eka judI ja praNAlikA che. jApAnamAM loko gharamAM dAkhala thatI vakhate avaLA pharIne pagarakhAM kADhe che, jethI bahAra jatI vakhate avaLA pharavuM na paDe. AMgaNAMmAM gametema paDelAM pagarakhAM mATe jApAnIone aNagamo hoya che. vyavasthita goThavelAM pagarakhAM e jApAnIonA kuTuMbasaMskAranuM eka AgavuM lakSaNa che. ame kArakhAnAnA bIjA eka vibhAganI mulAkAta lIdhI. tyAMthI pAchAM pharatAM paNa joyuM ke amArAM pagarakhAM koIke vyavasthita goThavI dIdhAM hatAM. tyAMthI ame trIjA eka vibhAgamAM dAkhala thayA. ahIM ame jAte amArAM pagarakhAM jApAnI paddhati pramANe vyavasthita goThavIne dAkhala thayA. paraMtu A vibhAgamAM je daravAjethI ame dAkhala thayA tene badale bIjA daravAjethI amAre bahAra nIkaLavAnuM thayuM. ame menejarane kahyuM, "paNa amArAM bUTa-caMpala to pelI bAju che.' teNe kahyuM, "tenI tame phikara karazo nahi." ame bIje daravAjethI bahAra nIkaLyA to amArAM bUTa-caMpala tyAM vyavasthita goThavAyelAM hatAM. koIka amArAM bUTa-caMpala eka daravAjethI uThAvIne A bIjA daravAje laI AvyuM hatuM. koNa A badhuM kare che tenuM amane I

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pagarakhAM goThavanAra kutUhala thayuM, kAraNa ke koI nokara tyAM nahoto. tyArapachI bIjA eka vibhAgamAM dAkhala thayA. pachI amArAmAMnA eke saheja pAchA pharIne joyuM to jaNAyuM ke pelo paccIsa varSano yuvAna nIce besI amArAM bUTa-caMpala vadhu vyavasthita rIte goThavI rahyo hato. e ja yuvAna e kAma patAvIne tarata ja kArakhAnAmAM amArI sAthe thaI jato ane menejara kahe te pramANe judI judI bAbatonI amane samajaNa Apato. te sAro jANakAra enjiniyara che e to tenI samajAvavAnI rIta parathI paNa ame joI zakyA hatA. "tamArA A yuvAna enjiniyara kArakhAnA vize sAruM jJAna dharAve che." meM kahyuM. hA, eNe amerikAmAM enjiniyariMgano abhyAsa karyo che." menejare kahyuM. ' paNa tamArA enjiniyara amArAM pagarakhAM UMcakIne vyavasthita mUke che enI amane zarama Ave che." meM kahyuM. tethI zuM thayuM ? jApAnamAM koI paNa kAma karavAnI koIne zarama naDatI nathI. bhaNelo hoya topaNa majUranuM kAma kare. amArA A enjiniyara haju paNa ghaNI vakhata majUronI sAthe majUranI jema kAma kare che. enA pitAzrInI amane khAsa sUcanA che ke ene badhA prakAranI tAlIma meLavI joIe." A jamAnAmAM AvI sUcanA ApanAra pitA bahu virala kahevAya.. enA pitAzrI zuM kare che ?" ame pUchyuM. "e amArA kArakhAnAnA mAlika che, mi. yehAna amATA." "oha ! yehAna gumATAnA A putra che ?" amArA mukhamAMthI AzcaryanA udagAra sarI paDyA. "yehAna amATA to jApAnanA eka agragaNya udyogapati che; jApAnanA eka abajapati che." ame kahyuM. hA, emanI icchA che ke emano dIkaro Avate varSe kaMpanIno DAyarekTara bane te pahelAM kArakhAnAmAM badhA ja prakAranuM kAma niSThApUrvaka ane rasapUrvaka eNe kareluM hovuM joIe. to ja te DAyarekTaranA padane yogya gaNAya." abajapatinA e enjiniyara putrane ane potAnA putra mATe AvI dRSTi ane bhAvanA dharAvanAra pitAne ame manathI vaMdana karI rahyAM.

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T zikAgo jatAM sAnaphrAnsisakothI huM zikAgo javAno hato. zaheramAMthI basa pakaDIne ame eNrapaoNrTa upara pahoMcyA. mArA mitra yazavaMtabhAI zAha eNraporTa upara mane mUkavA AvyA hatA. zikAgomAM temanA moTAbhAI kanubhAI eNraporTa upara mane levA AvavAnA hatA, kAraNa ke huM zikAgothI taddana ajANa hato. amerikAnI A mArI pahelI saphara hatI. sAmAna ApI huM vimAnamAM beTho. tyAre jambo 747nA prakAranuM vimAna navuM nIkaLyuM hatuM. ekasAthe lagabhaga sADA traNaso pravAsIone temAM saphara karatAM jovAM e tyAre AnaMdano viSaya hato. vimAnanI e saphara AMtaradezIya hatI, eTale temAM lagabhaga tamAma pravAsIo amerikana hatAM. bhAratIya tarIke huM judo dekhAI Avato hato. mArI bAjunI beThakamAM pAMtrIseka varSanI eka capaLa amerikana yuvatI beThI hatI. enI bAjumAM bArI pAse enI nAnI bebI beThI hatI. eNra-hosTese badhAne tAjA thavA kolanavaoNTaravALA naeNplina tathA piparamITa, caoNkaleTa vagere ApavAM zarU karyA. sITabelTa bAMdhavA mATe sUcanA apAI. mArI bAjumAM beThelI yuvatIe mane pUchyuM, "tame bhAratathI Avo cho ?" "hA." "pharavA AvyA cho ke ahIM ja raho cho ?" "huM to pharavA Avyo chuM. amerikAnI mArI A pahelI saphara che." "amAro deza tamane kevo lAgyo ?" "haju to meM losa enjalasa ane sAnaphrAnsisako joyAM che. paraMtu eTalA parathI paNa mane tamAro deza atyaMta samRddha ane raLiyAmaNo lAgyo che." "amerikana loko kevA lAgyA ?" "ghaNA nikhAlasa ane maLatAvaDA. briTiza loko karatAM ghaNI rIte amerikano judA paDe."

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zikAgo jatAM kaeNpTane jAherAta karI ke vimAna have UpaDe che. jambonI sarvisa navI cAlu thayelI hatI, eTale sUcanAo paNa jAtajAtanI apAtI. amAruM vimAna cAlyuM ane rana-vene cheDe AvIne lAInamAM UbhuM rahyuM, kAraNa ke AgaLa haju cAra vimAna UDavA mATenI lAinamAM UbhAM hatAM. | amArA vimAnano vAro Avyo. pharI jAherAta thaI ane vimAna UpaDyuM. eNra-hosTesoe cApANI mATe taiyArI cAlu karI dIdhI. amArI beThaka AgaLanI haroLamAM hatI eTale amAre cApANI tarata AvyAM. nAstAmAM meM zAkAhArI vAnagI lIdhI hatI. mArI bAjumAM beThelI yuvatIe pUchyuM : "tame zAkAhArI cho ?" "hA, huM custa zAkAhArI chuM." mane paNa zAkAhArI vAnagI game che. paNa ame loko bALapaNathI mAMsAhArI, eTale zAkAhArI tarapha jaladI vaLI zakatAM nathI." tame zAkAhArI na thaI zako, paraMtu jo iccho to tamArAM bALakone vALI zako. A tamArI dIkarI ATalI nAnI che tene atyArathI tame zAkAhAranI Teva pADo to e moTI thatAM zAkAhArI thaI zake." . tamArI vAta sAcI, paNa vacce mane eka cokhavaTa karavA do. A mArI dIkarI nathI." "mApha karajo, mArI bhUla thaI. huM mAnato hato ke e tamArI dIkarI e mArI moTI bahenanI dIkarI che. mArI bahena zikAgomAM rahe che. huM enI dIkarIne zikAgo mUkavA jAuM chuM." tame tamArI bahenanI dIkarInI eTalI sarasa saMbhALa lo cho ke koIne paNa ema lAge ke e tamArI ja dIkarI che." hA, tamArI vAta sAcI che. ghaNAM loko evA bhramamAM paDI jAya che, kAraNa ke A bebI mArI sAthe bahu haLI gaI che. mane paNa ene mArI sAthe rAkhavAnuM bahu game che, kAraNa ke huM paraNelI nathI. eTale bebIne jyAre jyAre lAMbI rajAo paDe che tyAre ene zikAgothI huM sAnaphrAnsisako laI AvuM chuM." amArI vAto cAlatI hatI. evAmAM acAnaka kepTane jAhera karyuM, ApaNA vimAnamAM laeNnDiga giaramAM kaMIka garabaDa thaI gaI che. tenI oNTomaeNTika sisTama bagaDI gaI che. ane paiDAM potAnI meLe pUrAM aMdara jatAM

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe nathI ke bahAra AvatAM nathI. eTale ApaNe sAnaphrAnsisako pAchA pharavuM paDaze. tyAM ame saMdezo mokalAvyo che ane Aga holavavAnA baMbA taiyAra rAkhavAnuM kahyuM che, kAraNa ke imarajansI lenDiMga karavuM paDaze. tamane badhAne e mATe cetavaNI ApavAmAM Ave che. tamArA sITabelTa bAMdhI lo." sUcanA sAMbhaLatAM ja ekadama sopo paDI gayo. badhAMnAM moM ciMtAtura thaI gayAM. phaTAphaTa badhAM beThakano paTTo paheravA lAgyAM. mArI bAjumAM beThelI yuvatIe mane pUchyuM, zuM thayuM ? kema badhAM Ama gaMbhIra thaI gayAM ?" "tame sUcanA na sAMbhaLI ?" tyAM kepTane sUcanA pharI cAlu karI. meM yuvatIne kahyuM, "barAbara dhyAnathI sAMbhaLo." huM paNa sUcanA pharIthI sAMbhaLavA lAgyo. sUcanA pUrI thatAM yuvatIe mane pUchyuM, zI sUcanA hatI ?" kema, tame sAMbhaLI nahi ?" "nA." kema ?" "kAraNa ke huM baherI chuM." "oha ! tame baherAM cho ?" mane navAI lAgI. meM kahyuM, "kyAranAM mArI sAthe tame vAta karo cho, to tame sAMbhaLatA nathI ?" nA, jI. huM to tamArA hoThanA halanacalanathI tame zuM bolo cho te samajI lauM chuM. meM lipa-rIDiMga'no korsa karyo che ane mane eno sAro mahAvaro che; paraMtu mAika upara je bolAya te huM kevI rIte samajI zakuM ?" yuvatInI vAta sAMbhaLI mane Azcarya thayuM. kaeNpTane zI sUcanA ApI hatI te meM kahI. e sAMbhaLatAM ja eno cahero ekadama gaMbhIra banI gayo. bAjunI beThakamAM beThelI bebInA gALAmAM hAtha bheravI eNe enA tarapha potAnuM mastaka DhALI dIdhuM. vimAna sAnaphrAnsisako pAchuM pharI rahyuM hatuM. vimAnamAM asAdhAraNa zAnti ane gamagInI hatI. thoDI vAra pachI kaeNpTane pharI jAherAta karI : "ApaNA vimAnanI kharAbI dUra karI nAkhavAmAM AvI che ane have

Page #28
zikAgo jatAM laeNnDiMga giaramAM koI khAmI rahI nathI. ApaNe sAnaphrAnsisako saMdezo ApI dIdho che. have ApaNe zikAgo tarapha jaI rahyA chIe." yuvatIe tarata mane pUchyuM. kaeNpTane karelI jAherAta meM ene jaNAvI. enA caherA upara ekadama AnaMda prasarI rahyo. ene potAnA karatAM potAnI moTI bahenanI lADakI dIkarInI ciMtA vadhAre hatI. 7 zikAgo ame UtaryAM. kanubhAI mane eNrapaoNrTa para levA AvyA hatA. rastAmAM meM temane e amerikana yuvatInI badhI vAta karI. emaNe kahyuM ke, "amerikAmAM keTalAMya evAM baherAM mANaso che ke je baherAM che evI emanI sAthe vAtacIta karatAM tamane khabara paDe nahi. ahIM lipa-rIDiMganI tAlIma apAya che, ane hiyariMga eiDa paNa have evI jAtajAtanI zodhAI che ke je tarata bIjAnI najare na caDe."

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uT veITaranuM vAtsalya I. sa. 1971mAM perisathI huM phrenkapharTa jato hato. tyAM eka rAta rokavAno hato. era inDiyA taraphathI "le-ovara' maLyo hato. covIsa kalAkamAM potAnI bIjI phalAiTa na hoya athavA amuka mAIlano pravAsa thayo hoya to eNra kaMpanIo potAnA kharce musApharone hoTelamAM rAkhe che. ene "le-ovara' kahevAmAM Ave che. perisathI amAruM vimAna moDuM UpaDyuM. phrenkapharTa pahoMcIne eNra inDiyAnA kAunTara upara gaye, tyAre kAunTara baMdha thaI gayuM hatuM. have mAre kyAM javuM ? kaI hoTelamAM mArA vyavasthA karI haze te to khabara nahotI. eNrapaoNrTathI hoTela sudhI javAnI vyavasthA paNa era inDiyAe karavAnI hatI. meM AsapAsanA bIjI kaMpanInA kAunTara upara jaIne pUchyuM to TUMko javAba maLyo : "e kAunTara baMdha che." meM vimAsaNamAM Amatema AMTA mAryA, paNa kaMI sUjha paDI nahi. bhAratamAMthI pravAsIone tyAre najIvuM videzI calaNa apAtuM. mArI pAse jAte hoTelamAM jaI rahevA paisA na hatA. eTale AkhI rAta mAre eNrapaoNrTa para paDyA rahevuM paDe evI sthiti thaI. mane thayuM ke "lAva, bIjA kAunTara upara jaIne mArI vAta samajAvuM." huM je phalAiTamAM Avyo hato te era phrAnsanA kAunTara upara jaIne mArI vAta karI. karmacArIe kahyuM, "era inDiyAnA karmacArIone potAno kaMI saMdezo Apavo hoya to luphathAnjhAnA kAunTarane ApIne jAya che. tame tyAM pUcho, kadAca tamAre mATe koI saMdezo hoya." huM luphAnjhAnA kAunTara para gayo. mArI vAta karI. karmacArIe kahyuM : "mApha karajo, amArI pAse koI saMdezo nathI." huM pAcho pharato hato tyAM ene kaMIka vicAra Avyo hoya tema mane kahyuM, "UbhA raho, huM tapAsa karuM, kAraNa ke huM pharaja upara thoDI vAra pahelAM ja Avyo chuM." te tapAsa karavA oNphisanI aMdara gayo. tyAM aMdarathI eka yuvatI AvI. eNe kahyuM, "hA, tamArA mATe saMdezo che, era inDiyAnA karmacArIe tamArI ghaNI rAha joI, paNa tamAruM vimAna moDuM hatuM eTale e gayo.

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veITaranuM vAtsalya tamAre hoTela inTara kaoNnTinenTalamAM javAnuM che. tyAM tamAruM rijharvezana thaI gayuM che. tame TeksI karIne tyAM pahoMcI jAva. TeksIkharca era inDiyA kAle tamane Apaze." samAcAra jANIne meM nirAMta anubhavI. rAtanA lagabhaga dasa thavA AvyA hatA. TeksI karI huM hoTela para pahoMcyo. rijharvezana pramANe rUma maLI. sAmAna mUkyo. bhUkha ghaNI lAgI hatI. huM hoTelanA resTorAMmAM pahoMcyo. paNa bahAra CLOSEDnuM pATiyuM lAgI gayuM hatuM. aMdara keTalAka veiTaro badhuM saMkelI rahyA hatA. hoTelamAM A eka ja resTorAM hatI. have khAvA mATe bahAra dUra javuM paDe ane gharanA paisA kharcavA paDe. temAM paNa mAre lAyaka khAvAnuM maLe ke na paNa maLe. huM resTorAMmAM aMdara gayo tyAM ja eka-be veiTara barADI UThyA, 'closed', 'closed' ane CLOSEDnA pATiyA tarapha AMgaLI cIMdhI. barAbara dasanA Takore te baMdha thAya ane lagabhaga sADAdase huM tyAM pahoMcyo hato. meM eka vRddha veiTara pAse jaIne mArI vAta samajAvI. te kAma karato jAya ane nA pADato jAya. meM kahyuM, "huM zAkAhArI chuM ane vimAnamAM paNa mane mAre lAyaka kazuM khAvAnuM maLyuM nathI. tame mane je kaMI Apazo tethI mane AnaMda thaze." huM zAkAhArI chuM ema sAMbhaLIne enA caherAno bhAva badalAI gayo. mane Tebala pAse besADyo. Tebala-klotha pAtharyuM. camacA kAMTA goThavyA. pote aMdara gayo. ghaNIvAra thaI topaNa te bahAra Avyo nahi. paNa tyAM to e pAMca-cha judI judI pleTa sAthe TrolI laIne Avyo. badhuM garama garama navuM banAvyuM hatuM. eNe kahyuM, "tame zAkAhArI cho tethI mane bahu AnaMda thayo. tamArA mATe badhI zuddha zAkAhArI vAnagI lAvyo chuM." meM kahyuM, "tame to ghaNI badhI vAnagI lAvyA cho, paNa mAre to era kaMpanIe khAvA mATe ApelI kUpana jeTalA paisAnuM khAvAnuM che." eNe kahyuM, "tame paisAnI phikara na karazo. jeTaluM khAvuM hoya teTaluM khAva. huM tamane kUpana karatAM vadhAre paisAnuM bila nahi ApuM. ema karavAnI mane sattA che." meM jamavAnuM cAlu karyuM. thoDI vAramAM e pAcho mArI pAse Avyo. enA hAthamAM tAjA dahIMno vADako hato, mane kahe, "rasoDAmAM jaI tamane ApI zakAya evI bIjI vAnagIo joto hato. tyAM A dahIM yAda AvyuM. mane khabara che ke keTalAka bhAratIya loko bhAta ane dahIM khAya che, eTale tamAre mATe lAvyo chuM. jeTaluM joIe teTaluM lejo."

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10 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe huM jamI rahyo tyAM sudhI eNe mArI saMbhALa rAkhyA karI. koI koI vAnagI khAvA mATe premathI Agraha karato. jamIne UbhA thatAM meM eno pharIthI AbhAra mAnyo. veITara vRddha hato. mAtAnA jevA vAtsalyathI eNe mane khavaDAvyuM. eNe mane kahyuM, "zAkAhArIo pratye, temAM paNa bhAratIya zAkAhArIo pratye mane khUba Adara ane prema che. koI koI vakhata A hoTelamAM tevA musApharo Ave che tyAre mane temane pIrasavAmAM bahu AnaMda Ave che." duniyAmAM niyamo to badhe hoya che, paraMtu kyAreka namratA, prema, vAtsalya, AdarabhAva mANasane jaDa niyamothI para banAvI de che.

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4 nepALI dIvI nepALamAM kAThamaMDuthI evaresTanuM zikhara jovA javAno amAro kAryakrama hato. vAdaLAM ane dhummasane kAraNe zikhara Akho vakhata jovA maLatuM nathI. eTale amane salAha ApavAmAM AvI hatI ke 'savAramAM pho phATatAM pahelAM jo eka TekarI upara pahoMcI jaIe to evaresTanAM darzana sUryodaya samaye sArI rIte thaI zake che. TUrisTa kaMpanIo e mATe paroDhano pravAsa yoje che. ame e mATe hoTelamAM nAma noMdhAvyuM. savAre cAra vAge amArI basa UpaDI. dezadezanA musApharo A zikhara jovA mATe basamAM beThA hatA. mArI bAjumAM beThelA sajjana sviTjharalaeNnDanA eka nAnA zaheramAMthI AvatA hatA. duniyAnA eka prAcIna zahera tarIke kAThamaMDunuM pazcimanA lokomAM AkarSaNa ghaNuM che. hippI yuvaka-yuvatIo paNa tyAM moTI saMkhyAmAM UmaTe che. TekarInI taLeTImAM basa UbhI rahI. tyAMthI khAssuM cAlavAnuM ane caDhavAnuM hatuM. dhIme dhIme ame badhAM cAlavA lAgyAM. bIjI keTalIka baso paNa AvI ane videzIonI saMkhyA vadhatI gaI. videzIomAM yuropIya ane amerikana loko ghaNA hatA. evaresTanAM darzana karavAno temane zokha hoya te svAbhAvika hatuM. paraMtu amArI sAthe keTalAka nepALI loko paNa TekarI caDhatA hatA. nepALIone evaresTanI zI navAI ? to pachI zuM A badhA nepALIo evaresTanAM darzana karavAne caDhatA haze ? ke pachI videzIone jovAnA ke temanI sAthe phoTA paDAvavAnA ke kaMIka meLavavAnA AzayathI teo caDhatA haze ? mAruM mana tenA vicAre caDhI gayuM. TekarI upara ame badhAM pahoMcI gayAM. aMdhAruM dhIme dhIme osa2vA lAgyuM. evaresTanI dizAmAM moDhuM karIne ame badhAM UbhAM hatAM. AkAzamAM koI koI tArA haju TamaTamatA hatA. TekarI upara mANasonI giradI ghaNI hatI, chatAM vAtAvaraNa zAMta hatuM. dhIme dhIme aruNodaya thayo. ekabIjAnAM mukha have spaSTa dekhAvA lAgyAM. evaresTanAM himAcchAdita zikharanAM darzana thayAM ane lokonA AnaMdano

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12 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe kalarava vadhI gayo. paNa e kalaravanI sAthe bIjo eka kolAhala paNa cAlu thayo. e hato nepALIono. teo potAnI sAthe videzIone vecavA mATe jAtajAtanI nepALI kArIgarInI vastuo laI AvyA hatA. ghaDIkamAM badhA pravAsIo TekarI Utaraze; te pahelAM teo potAnA bane teTalA sodA patAvavA mAgatA hatA. e mATe zakya teTalA vadhu gharAko pAse pahoMcI, cIjavastuo batAvI, bhAvatAla karIne vecavA mATe teo doDAdoDa karavA lAgyA hatA. amArI pAse eka nepALI Avyo. te potAnI vastuo eka pachI eka batAvavA lAgyo ane DaoNlaramAM bhAva kahevA lAgyo. nepALI abhaNa hato, paNa videzI calaNanI kiMmata jANato hato. mArI pAse UbhelA svisa sajjane emAMthI eka vastu pasaMda karI. te hatI nepALI kArIgarInI pittaLanI nAnakaDI dIvI. nepALIe enA paccIsa DaoNlara kahyA. huM jANato hato ke bajAramAM AvI dIvIno paccIsa rUpiyA jeTalo bhAva paNa nathI. tene badale A to paccIsa DaoNlara ! videzIonI pAsethI ATalA badhA paisA paDAvI levA te zuM vAjabI che ? meM nepALIne hindI bhASAmAM kahyuM, "ATalo badho vadhAre bhAva rAkhe che to tArI vastu koNa leze ? paradezIone kema chetare che ?" eno javAba sAdo hato : "ame game te bhAva kahIe, jene paravaDe te le. ghaNA paradezIo laI jAya che. savAre aDadhA kalAkano A amAro dhaMdho che. pachI Akho divasa kyAM amane kazuM kamAvAnuM maLe che ?" - pelA svisa sajjanane dIvI gamI gaI. teo nepALI sAthe bhAvatAla karavA lAgyA. meM emane IzAro karyo ke A bhAva ghaNo badho vadhAre che ane A ja dIvI bajAramAM ghaNI sastI tamane maLaze. emaNe kahyuM, "pachI maLe eno bharoso nahi. kadAca bajAramAM javAno samaya nA rahe. mAre to atyAre ja A dIvI laI levI che. amArA zaheramAM eka viziSTa prakAranuM myujhiyama thaI rahyuM che. "All About Light nuM e yUjhiyama che. A dIvI saheje ochAmAM ochA so DaoNlaramAM huM teone vecI zakIza." emaNe paccIsa DaoNlaramAM dIvI kharIdI lIdhI. TekarI parathI nIce UtaratAM mArA manamAM vicAra cAlato hato. vadhAre paDato bhAva laI levA mATeno nepALI pratyeno mAro aNagamo have thoDo ocho thayo hato. prasaMge bIjAnI garajano lAbha uThAvI napho meLavI levAnI vRtti duniyAmAM badhe ja paDelI che.

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5 laMDanathI mAncesTara mAncesTaramAM ravivAre sAMje cha vAge mAruM tathA mArAM patnInuM vyAkhyAna goThavAyuM hatuM . amArA mitra abhayabhAI mahetA ane temanAM patnI maMgaLAbahena potAnI gADImAM laMDanathI amane mAncesTara laI javAnAM hatAM. eka divasano ja mAncesTarano amAro kAryakrama hato. savAre abhayabhAI samayasara amane devacaMdabhAI caMdariyAnA ghare levA AvyA. cAnAsto karIne ame taiyAra beThAM hatAM. gADImAM besatAM meM abhayabhAIne pUchyuM, "tamArI pAse to bIjI gADI hatI. A gADI kyAMthI lAvyA ?' "mArI gADI. Ama to sArI che. paNa Aje ApaNe bahAragAma javAnA chIe eTale mArA eka mitranI A navI giaralesa gADI laI lIdhI che. mArI gADI jUnI che. koI vakhata rastAmAM kadAca takalIpha Ape." abhayabhAIe kahyuM. A bIjI gADI taddana navI ane AkarSaka hatI. cAlatI hatI paNa bahu sarasa. ame abhayabhAIne ghera pahoMcyAM. tyAMthI maMgaLAbahena amArI sAthe joDAyAM. rastAmAM khAvA mATe emaNe nAsto tathA phaLa lIdhAM hatAM. laMDana choDI ame hAIve (iMglaeNnDamAM moTara-ve kahevAya che) 52 bahAra nIkaLyAM. rasto ghaNo vizALa ane javA tathA AvavA mATe judo judo hato. TrAphika paNa vyavasthita ane zistabaddha hato. laMDanathI soeka kilomITa2 ame nIkaLI gayAM. rastAmAM jyAM pArkiMga vistAra ane resTorAM hatAM tyAM ame thoDI vAra alpAhAra karyo. IMglaeNnDamAM AvA sthaLe musApharone mATe ghaNI sagavaDo hoya che. koIkane rAta rokAvuM hoya to te mATe hoTelamAM rUmanI paNa vyavasthA hoya che. dara aDadhI miniTe ekAda-be moTarakAra AvatI-jatI hoya eTalI avarajavara AvAM resTorAM pAse satata cAlyA karatI hoya che. thoDIka vAra ArAma karI ame pAchAM gADImAM goThavAyAM. pANInA relAnI jema gADI cAlavA lAgI. AsapAsanuM vAtAvaraNa ramaNIya hatuM. cAre bAju nAnI nAnI TekarIo upara lIluMchama ghAsa hatuM. amArI dIkarI zailajAe kahyuM : "abhayabhAI, thoDI vAra ahIM gADI UbhI rAkhone !

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14 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe kevuM sarasa dazya che ! ekAda jagyAe UbhA rahIne jovAnuM mana thAya evuM che." "ahIM hAIve para ema gADI UbhI na rAkhI zakAya. polIsanI moTara Ave to tarata ApaNo naMbara le. hA, tamArI moTara bagaDI gaI hoya to judI vAta che." abhayabhAIe kahyuM. ' pacAseka kilomITara gADI cAlI haze tyAM abhayabhAIe acAnaka gADI vacalI lAInamAMthI chellI lAInamAM lIdhI. temanA caherA para kaMIka mUMjhavaNa dekhAI. meM pUchyuM, "kema zuM che ?" gADI spIDa pakaDatI nathI; mane lAge che ke enI oTomeTika giara sisTama bagaDI gaI che. UbhI rAkhIne ApaNe jarA joI laIe." AsapAsanuM majAnuM dRzya jovA mATe kAyadesaranuM kAraNa maLyuM, paraMtu have e jovAmAM rasa na rahyo; balka ciMtAno viSaya thayo. ame eka bAju gADI UbhI rAkhI. boneTa kholIne joyuM. paNa kazI khabara paDI nahi. gADI sTArTa karavA mATe prayatno karyA paNa keme te sTArTa thAya nahi, ane thAya to thoDe jaIne tarata ja pAchI UbhI rahI jAya. gADImAM zI khAmI che te amane samajAyuM nahi. abhayabhAI kahe, "A gADI mAre mATe navI che. eTale mane emAM bahu samaja paDatI nathI." - ame pharI eka prayatna karyo, paraMtu gADIe to have cAlavAno ja inkAra karyo. have zuM thAya ? ApaNe bhAratamAM to raste jatA bIjA koI gADIvALAne ke khaTArAvALAne UbhA rAkhI tenI madada mAgIe, paraMtu ahIM evI prathA nahi. rastA para koI mANasa paNa maLe nahi. hAIve upara mANasane cAlavAnI manAI hoya che. mAtra gADIo ja jhaDapabhera cAlI jatI hoya. koI gADIne UbhA rahevAnuM paNa na kahevAya. laMDanathI ame samayanI gaNatarI karIne nIkaLyAM hatAM. vyAkhyAna mATe pA ke aDadho kalAka moDuM thAya to loko bese, paraMtu ethI vadhAre moDuM ahIM rastAmAM amAre thaI gayuM. meM abhayabhAIne kahyuM, "Aje have mAncesTaramAM vyAkhyAnano kAryakrama nahi thaI zake." joIe. kadAca zakya haze to dhAryA pramANe vyAkhyAnanA samaya pahelAM ja ApaNe pahoMcI jaIzuM."

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laMDanathI mAncesTara 15 - mane temanI vAta AzvAsanarUpa lAgI. amane UbhAM rAkhI teo thoDe dUra Teliphonano thAMbhalo hato tyAM Teliphona karavA gayA. iMglenDamAM (yuropa, amerikAmAM paNa) ghaNe sthaLe hAIve upara Teliphona mATe thoDe thoDe aMtare sagavaDa rAkhavAmAM AvI hoya che. abhayabhAI Teliphona karIne amArI kAra sudhI cAlatA pAchA pharyA. tyAM thoDI vAramAM sAyarana vagADatI eka moTarakAra amArI pAse AvIne UbhI rahI. aMdarathI eka mANasa ojAro sAthe Utaryo. te mikenika hato. teNe pUchyuM, "kema zuM che ?" . tene gujarAtImAM bolato sAMbhaLI amane Azcarya thayuM. pUchatAM khabara paDI ke aMgreja jevo lAgato te mikenika to pArasI sajjana hato. laMDanamAM raheto hato. gujarAtI bolavAno tene gharamAM haju paNa mahAvaro hato. amArA caherA ane paheraveza joI te samajI gayo ke ame gujarAtI chIe. meM abhayabhAIne kahyuM, "ATalI badhI jhaDapathI kevI rIte kAma thayuM ? mane to bahu navAI lage che." temaNe kahyuM, "ahIM Teliphona karavA mATe naMbara paNa pheravavAno nahi. hAIve paranA Teliphona parathI risIvara upADIe eTale tarata kanTrolarUmavALAne khabara paDe ke kaI jagyAethI ApaNe phona karIe chIe. ApaNI muzkelI ane kArano naMbara jaNAvIe eTale tarata teo vAyaralesathI rastAmAM pharatI rakhevALa moTarone saMdezo Ape, eTale ApaNI sauthI vadhu najIka je moTara ke Traka hoya te tarata ApaNI pAse AvI pahoce." mikenike ghaNI mAthAkUTa karI paraMtu gADI keme karI cAle nahi. eNe abhayabhAIne keTalAka prazno karyA, paNa abhayabhAIe kahyuM, "A to mArA mitranI gADI che ane Aje pahelI ja vAra huM vAparuM chuM." mikenike kahyuM, "gADI gerejamAM laI javI paDaze. cAlaze nahi." A vAtathI huM vadhu vimAsaNamAM paDyo. paraMtu abhayabhAI svastha hatA. emaNe mikenikane kahyuM, "to pachI tame tarata ToiMga Traka bolAvI Apo. amAre mAncesTara lekTara mATe samayasara pahoMcavAnuM che." - mikenike potAnI gADImAM jaI vAyaralesathI saMdezo mokalyo. daseka miniTamAM eka moTI Traka sAyarana vagADatI amArI pAse AvIne UbhI rahI. DrAivare TrakanuM pAchaluM paTiyuM DhALI lIdhuM. pachI oTomeTika yaMtra vaDe amArI gADIne sAMkaLa vaDe kheMcIne teNe Traka upara caDhAvI dIdhI. mAro baTana dabAvavAthI pAMceka miniTamAM A badhuM kAma patI gayuM. TrakamAM AgaLa DrAivara pAse be hAramAM dasabAra mANasone besavA mATe gAdIvALI sarasa beThaka

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16 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe hatI temAM ame goThavAyAM. pelA pArasI mikenikano AbhAra mAnI ame vidAya lIdhI. amArI gADIne UMcakIne pUra jhaDape Traka cAlI. TrakanI jhaDapa vadhAre hatI. rasto sApha hato. dhAryA karatAM paNa vahelAM ame mAncesTara pahoMcI gayAM. je samaya gADIne kAraNe rastAmAM bagaDyo te samaye TrakanI jhaDapane kAraNe bacI gayo. jyAM amAre pahoMcavAnuM hatuM tyAM amArI gADI yaMtra vaDe nIce utArI TrakavALo tarata vidAya thayo. meM abhayabhAIne pUchyuM, "A kAma mATe TrakavALAne kharcanA paisA nahi ApavAnA ?" "nA, oTomobAila esosiezananA ApaNe sabhya hoIe to A badhI sevA ApavA teo baMdhAyelA che. tame joyuM ne ke TUkavALo bakSisa mATe paNa Ubho rahyo nathI. ahIM evI prathA ja nathI." amArI gADI TrakamAMthI nIce UtarI eTalAmAM abhayabhAInA mitra amAruM svAgata karavA gharanI bahAra AvI pahoMcyA hatA. gADIe takalIpha ApI tenI vAta thaI. abhayabhAIe kahyuM, "huM mArI gADI lAvato hato, paraMtu mane thayuM ke enA karatAM DaoNkTara paTelanI navI gADI laI lauM. paraMtu A navI gADIe to UlaTAnI amane takalIpha ApI." are A DaoNkTara paTelanI gADI che ? A to meM vAparI che. emAM eka khAmI che. eTale zaheramAM nahi paNa koI koI vakhata hAIve para spIDa mUkatAM e baMdha paDI jAya che. e mATe "coka' ApavAnI jarUra che." ema kahIne emaNe tarata gADImAM besIne cokanI svica kheMcIne gADI sTArTa karI. tarata cAlu thaI gaI. gADImAM khAmI najIvI hatI, paraMtu potIkI hatI, je amArI ke mikenikanI najare nahotI AvI. mAncesTaramAM vyAkhyAna mATe ame moDAM paDyAM nahotAM. pAMceka miniTa vahelAM pahoMcyAM hatAM. zrotAo AvI gayA hatA. paraMtu vyAkhyAna samayasara cAlu na thayuM, kAraNa ke haoNla kholanAra kaeNra-Tekara ravivAranI rajAne kAraNe haoNlanI cAvI ane hola kholavAnI javAbadArI enA bIjA eka mitrane soMpIne klabamAM ramavA cAlyo gayo hato. e mitrano patto meLavI haoNla kholavA mATe ene laI AvavAmAM poNo kalAka vItI gayo. khUba cokasAI ane cIvaTavALA dezomAM paNa kyAreka AvI gaphalata thatI hoya che. vilaMba ane avilaMba mATenAM kAraNo haMmezAM ekasarakhAM nathI hotAM.

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gAtAM phaLa nyUjhIlenDamAM enA pATanagara okalenDathI huM roTophuvA jato hato. roTovA e javALAmukhI zahera che. javALAmukhI zAMta thaI gayA pachI tyAM vaselA A zaheramAM haju paNa thoDI thoDI miniTe koI koI jagyAe jyAre acAnaka gesa ane pANInA phuvArA phUTI nIkaLe che tyAre jANe koI mazInagana phUTatI hoya tevA avAja Ave che. gaMdhakavALA garama pANInA taraNahoja mATe tyAMnI ghaNI hoTelo suvikhyAta che. eka TUrisTa kaMpanInI roTovA mATenI TUramAM huM joDAyo hato. basamAM beTho tyAre jANyuM ke amAro DrAivara ja amArA gAiDa tarIke kAma karavAno hato. videzomAM keTaleka sthaLe karakasara tarIke prAivara ane gAIDanuM kAma eka ja vyaktine soMpAya che. DrAivare amArA darekanAM nAma pUchayAM ane kayA kyA dezamAMthI ane kayA kayA zaheramAMthI ame AvIe chIe te paNa jANI lIdhuM. - amArI basa cAlI. DrAivare potAnA moDhA pAse rAkhela mAIkamAMthI bolavAnuM zarU karyuM. te rastA para najara rAkhato jAya ane potAnI sAme rAkhelA arIsAmAMthI amArAM badhAnI sAme paNa joto jAya. enI yAdazakti ghaNI sArI hatI. potAnI vAta daramiyAna vacce vacce pravAsIone emanAM nAma daI bolAvato jAya ane e pravAsI enI vAta barAbara sAMbhaLe che ke nahi te arIsAmAMthI nihALato jAya. enI bolavAnI Dhaba parathI amane - lAgyuM ke te svabhAve paNa vAtoDiyo ane maLatAvaDo che. te kyAreka ramUja karato. amArA praznonA javAba te bahu saMtoSakAraka rIte Apato. gAIDa tarIke te potAnA viSayanI jANakArI paNa sArI dharAvato hato. okalenDa choDI ame ThIka ThIka dUra nIkaLI gayAM. AsapAsanA pradeza vize samajAvatAM samajAvatAM DrAivare acAnaka mane prazna karyo : "DaoN. zAha, bombe choDyAne tamane keTalA divasa thayA ?" "lagabhaga eka mahino," meM kahyuM. DrAivare huM muMbaIthI AvuM chuM te yAda rAkhI lIdhuM hatuM te jANIne mane AnaMda thayo. to tamane baoNmbe yAda nathI AvatuM ?" pA-2 - WWW.jainelibrary.org

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18 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe "bahu yAda Ave che." "kyAre pahoMcavuM che baoNmbe ?" "jema bane tema jaladI." prAivare amane nyUjhIlenDanI keTalIka bhaugolika mAhitI ApI ane tyAMnA AdivAsI mAorI lokonI khAsiyatono paricaya Apyo. thoDI vAra pachI DrAivare ekadama basa UbhI rAkhI. eNe mane kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, tame UtarI jAva." huM kazuM samajyo nahi. bIjA pravAsIo paNa vicAramAM paDI gayA. DrAivare mane kahyuM, "tamAre baoNmbe vahelAmAM vahelI take javuM che ne ? to ahIM UtarI jAva." "paNa kema ?" "A baoNmbe zahera che." mane enI vAta majAka jevI lAgI. meM kahyuM, "mArI majAka na karo." "huM bilakula majAka karato nathI. sAcuM ja kahuM chuM ke A bombe zahera che." ema kahI eNe dUra eka pATiyuM vaMcAvyuM. enI vAta sAcI hatI. je zaheramAMthI ame pasAra thaI rahyAM hatAM te zaheranuM nAma baoNmbe ja hatuM. nyUjhIlenDamAM bombe nAmanuM zahera che. e to meM kyAreya sAMbhaLyuM nahotuM. kevI rIte e zaheranuM nAma baoNmbe paDyuM haze, te vize manamAM prazna thayo. meM DrAIvarane pUchyuM. eNe kahyuM, "soeka varSa pahelAM bombemAM rahelA koI briTiza amaladAre nivRtta thaIne nyUjhIlenDamAM vasavATa karavAnuM vicAryuM. ahIM AvIne eNe ghaNA ekara jamIna kharIdI lIdhI ane potAnI e esTeTane bombe nAma ApyuM hatuM. tyAM dhIme dhIme loko vasatA gayA ane ema karatAM A nAnakaDuM zahera thayuM." yuropiyano ane emAM khAsa karIne aMgrejo dUra dUra vasavATa mATe jyAM gayA tyAM keTalAMka sthaLone emaNe potAnA vatananAM nAma ApyAM che. e rIte amerikAmAM to laMDana, piTsabarga, oNksapharDa, kaeNbrija vagere nAmanAM zahero che. mosko nAmanuM zahera paNa amerikAmAM che. e pramANe nyUjhIlenDamAM "bombe'nuM nAma eka aMgreja laI gayo. iMglenDanA potAnA vatananA nAmane yAda na karatAM bombane eNe yAda karyuM. e batAve che ke baoNmbe ene keTaluM vahAluM haze ! amArI basa AgaLa cAlI. lagabhaga daseka vAgavA AvyA hatA. poNA kalAkano have amane cApANI mATe virAma maLavAno hato. rastAmAM

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gAtAM phaLa 19 eka sthaLe eka moTA phArma pAse amArI basa AvI pahoMcI. DrAivare kahyuM, "ahIM cA, kaoNI ke kolDa Drinkasa maLe che; ane tAjAM phaLa levo hoya to te paNa maLe che. phaLa dukAnamAMthI maLaze ane jAte toDIne levAM hoya to phArmamAMthI laI zakAze. alabatta, e mATe tamAre paisA ApavAnA raheze !" - amArI basa pArkiMga vistAramAM UbhI rAkhavAmAM AvI. tyAM bIjI keTalIka basa ane moTaro paNa UbhI hatI. eka bAju moTI dukAna hatI. basamAMthI dukAna batAvIne prAivare kahyuM, "tyAM tamane khAvApIvAnuM maLaze ane jemaNe khetaramAM jaIne tAjAM phaLa toDIne levAM hoya to te mATe dukAnamAMthI TopalI ApavAmAM Avaze. paraMtu ahIM eka vicitra niyama che. khetaramAM phaLa vINavA mATe tame jAva tyAre tamAre gAvuM paDe che. jema tame jorathI sarasa gAva te ma phaLa paNa AnaMdamAM AvI jAya che ane tame jo barAbara dhyAnapUrvaka sAMbhaLo to phaLa paNa gAtAM hoya evuM tamane saMbhaLAze." DAivaranI vAta sAMbhaLI ame badhAM basI paDyAM. ene majAka karavAnI Teva che e ame jANatAM hatAM. eTale ame kahyuM, "tame amArI majAka na karo." huM bilakula paNa majAka karato nathI. tamAre gIta gAvuM ja paDaze." prAivare gaMbhIra thaIne kahyuM. koIke prazna karyo, "kaI bhASAmAM gIta gAvuM ?" koI paNa bhASAmAM, iMgliza, phrenca, jarmana ke bIjI koI paNa bhASAmAM. tamArI mAtRbhASAmAM paNa tame gAI zako." "gIta pUruM thaI jAya pachI zuM karavuM ?" "to bIjuM koI gIta gAvuM athavA enuM e gIta pharIthI gAvuM, paNa gIta cAlu rahevuM joIe." "mane to koI gIta ApyuM AvaDatuM nathI." koI prazna karyo. jeTaluM AvaDe teTaluM gAvuM. pahelI lITI AvaDe to pahelI lITI gAyA karavI." DrAivare kahyuM.. paNa mane to eka paNa gIta AvaDatuM nathI, to mAre zuM karavuM ?" eke prazna karyo. "tamAre A... A... A.... ema koI paNa layamAM lalakAryA karavuM." DrAivare namUnA tarIke e pramANe gAI batAvyuM.

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe "jene e paNa na phAve teNe zuM karavuM ?" "teNe sisoTI vagADatAM rahevuM." Ama, vAta sAcI mAnIne keTalAka prazno karyA, paNa amane bIjAM keTalAMkane to e badhI majAka che ema ja lAgyuM. ame nIce UtaryA. dukAnamAM sAme eka borDa upara lakhyuM hatuM : "khetaramAM phaLa vINavA jAva tyAre tamAre gIta gAvuM jarUrI che. tame gIta gAzo to phaLa paNa tamArI sAthe gIta gAvA lAgaze." dukAnadAre darekanA hAthamAM TopalI Apato ane sAthe sUcanA ApatAM kaheto : "phArmamAM gIta gAjo." ame badhAM TopalI laIne khetaramAM gayAM. dukAnanI barAbara sAme vADa vagaranuM atyaMta khulluM vizALa khetara hatuM. choDa, vRkSa ane velA upara sTroberI, blaberI, sapharajana, TameTAM, peru vagere jAtajAtanAM phaLa UgyAM hatAM. ApaNane je pasaMda hoya te phaLa toDI levAnAM. amArI basanAM ane bIjI basa tathA moTaronAM ghaNAM badhAM strI-puruSo AkhA khetaramAM Amatema phaLa vINatAM jatAM hatAM ane moTethI gIto gAtAM jatAM hatAM. bhAtabhAtanAM dezadezanAM gIto saMbhaLAtAM hatAM. badhAMnA caherA upara AnaMda ane ullAsa jaNAto hato. koI koI to gAvAnA tAnamAM eTalAM AvI jatAM ke sAthe nAcavA paNa lAgatAM. jeNe phaLa vINI lIdhAM hoya te dukAnamAM pahoMce, vajana karAve ane paisA Ape. phaLonA bhAva borDa upara lakhelA hatA. okalenDa karatAM ekadama sastA bhAve ahIM phaLo maLatAM hatAM. khetara eTaluM vizALa hatuM ke ochA samayamAM AkhA khetaramAM pharI vaLavAnuM muzkela hatuM. pravAsIo ghaNAM hatAM, chatAM giradI jevuM lAgatuM na hatuM. thoDI thoDI vAre thoDA pravAsIo khetaramAMthI bahAra AvatA, to bIjA navA AvelA TopalIo laIne khetaramAM dAkhala thatA hatA. bhAratIya gIto gAtAM gAtAM meM paNa sTroberI vagere thoDAMka phaLa vINI" lIdhAM. vajana karAvI paisA ApI phaLa khAvAnuM cAlu karyuM to svAdamAM te ekadama madhura jaNAyAM. samaya thayo eTale amArI TUranAM badhAM pravAsIo basamAM AvI pahoMcyAM. darekanA hAthamAM jAtajAtanAM phaLanAM paeNkeTa hatAM. basamAM paNa badhAM phaLa khAtAM hatAM. amArI basa paDI. DrAivare kahyuM, "gIta gAvAnI mArI vAta majAka nathI enI have tamane khAtarI thaI ne ?"

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21 gAtAM phaLa hA." badhAMe kahyuM. "paNa phaLa gIta gAya che evuM tame koIe dhyAnathI sAMbhaLyuM ?" DrAivare prazna karyo. "ame phaLa vINavAmAM eTalAM mazagUla hatAM ke sAMbhaLavAnuM amane sUjhayuM paNa nahi." eke kahyuM. "meM sAMbhaLavAno prayatna karyo, paNa mane evuM koI gIta saMbhaLAyuM nahi." bIjAe kahyuM. prAivare kahyuM, "haju sudhI koI pravAsIe phaLane gIta gAtAM sAMbhaLyuM hoya evuM mane jANavA maLyuM nathI. paraMtu dukAnadAre A gIta gAvAnI je yojanA dAkhala karI che tenuM kAraNa khAnagImAM tamane kahuM chuM. gAvAnuM pharajiyAta eTalA mATe che ke phaLa vINatAM vaNatAM koI khAvA lAge nahi. pahelAM loko khetaramAM TopalI laIne jAya, paNa TopalImAM eka paNa phaLa paDe nahi. loko cAkhatA jAya ane khAtA jAya ane khAlI TopalI laIne pAchA Ave. chetaravAno lokono Azaya na ja hoya, paNa mIThAM, tAjAM phaLa cAkhavAnuM mana mANasa rokI na zake ane eka phaLa cAkhyA pachI svAda evo lAge ke bIjAM phaLa khAdhA vagara rahevAya nahi ane AvaDA moTA khetaramAM ekalo dukAnadAra keTalAMkanuM dhyAna rAkhe ? mATe eNe A niyama karyo." "topaNa keTalAka lokone meM khetaramAM phaLa khAtA joyA hatA !" koIka kahyuM. "evuM to thoDuM banyA kare. enI gaNatarI gaNIne ja dukAnadAra bhAva rAkhe che. tema chatAM paNa tAjo ane jAte vINelAM ATalAM badhAM sarasa ane sastAM phaLa tamane bIje maLe nahi. e mATe A phArma khUba prakhyAta che." DAivare kahyuM. roTophuvAne raste phaLanA phArmanA A navIna anubhave amArA pravAsane vizeSa ullAsamaya banAvyo. 1 Use Only

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||||||||7 sugaMdha ane durgama siMgApuramAM amAre je hoTelamAM UtaravAnuM hatuM tenuM nAma hatuM hoMgakoMga hoTela. hoTelamAM lejaramAM nAma-saranAmAnI vigato ame bharatA hatA. tyAM amAro sAmAna rUmamAM pahoMcI gayo. sAtame mALe amane rUma ApavAmAM AvI hatI. ame liphaTamAM upara caDhavA lAgyA. chaThThA mALe kaMIka vicitra vAsa AvavA lAgI. sAtamA mALe liphTano daravAjo khUlatAM to e vAsa vadhu tIvra lAgavA mAMDI. ame amArI rUmamAM pahoMcyA. rUmanuM bAraNuM baMdha karyuM eTale vAsa thoDI ochI thaI gaI. meM mArA mitrane pUchayuM, "tamane koI vicitra vAsa AvI ?" hA, liphTamAMthI rUmamAM AvatA hatA tyAre pesejamAM kaMIka tIvra vAsa AvatI hatI." - zAnI vAsa hatI te kaMI khabara na paDI, paraMtu dArUnI to te na hatI. sigareTanA dhumADAnI paNa na hatI. thoDI vAra pachI ame bahAra pharavA gayA tyAre pesejamAM tIvra vAsa AvatI hatI. sAMje rUmamAM pAchA AvyA. pharI e ja vAsa hatI, paraMtu pahelAM jevI tIvra na hatI. bIjA divase ame bahAra pharIne AvyA tyAre to vAsa eTalI tIvra hatI ke pesejamAM pasAra thatAM aruci thAya. rUma baMdha karIe topaNa vAsa AvatI hatI. amane thayuM ke hoTelanA menejaranuM A vize dhyAna kheMcavuM joIe. ame nIce jaI kAunTara upara phariyAda karI. hoTelanA risepzanisTa dhAryuM ke paisejamAM koI davA ke rasAyaNa DhoLAyuM haze; tapAsa karavA amArI sAthe nokarane mokalyo. paraMtu jeTalI tIvra vAsa amane AvatI hatI, teTalI ene AvatI na hatI. paNa e samajI gayo. e kazuMka bolyo, paNa ame enI bhASA samajatA na hatA. ame enI sAthe nIce gayA. hoTelanA risepzanisTe amane kahyuM, "are! e to duriyAnanI vAsa che; mApha karajo,

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sugaMdha ane durgadha 23 e mATe ame kazuM karI zakIe tema nathI. joIe to tamane bIjA koI mALa upara rUma badalI ApIe; paraMtu tyAM paNa kyAreya vAsa nahi Ave evI ame khAtarI ApI zakatA nathI." "zuM che A duriyAna ?" "are ! tame jANatA nathI ? e to maleziyAnAM lokonuM bahu mAnItuM phaLa che. enI vAsa bahu tIvra hoya che, paNa amArA lokone e bahu game che. ame hoTelamAM duriyAna khAvAnI manAI karI che, chatAM loko mAnatA nathI. erakanDizanDa hoTelamAM to duriyAnanI vAsa kalAko sudhI nIkaLatI nathI." "hoTelamAM tame duriyAna khAvAnI manAI karo chatAM loko kema khAtA haze ?" lokone enuM vyasana thaI jAya che. jema cA, sigAreTa, taMbAku, dArU vagerenuM mANasane vyasana thAya che ane eno samaya thAya tyAre mANasane enI talapa lAge che, tema duriyAna niyamita khAnArane tenuM vyasana thaI jAya che. evA loko game teTalI manAI hoya, to paNa tene gaNakAratA nathI. chAnAmAnAM rUmamAM lAvIne khAya che." mANasane phaLanuM vyasana lAge che te duriyAnanI bAbatamAM jANyuM. sAMje ame bajAra pAsethI nIkaLyA tyAre te ja tIvra vAsa AvI. joyuM to eka lArImAM mANasa duriyAna vecI rahyo hato. barAbara phaNasa jevuM phaLa. kApIne emAMthI enI pILA raMganI moTI moTI pezIo kADhIne lArInI vacce Dhagalo karyo hato. keTalAka loko hoMze hoMze khAtA hatA. phaNasano svAda eTale gaLapaNano atireka. duriyAna to phaNasa karatAM paNa vadhAre gaLyuM ane enI vAta to ethI paNa vadhu tIvra, ApaNA jevA pahelI vAra cAkhe to moDhuM bagaDI jAya ane mAthuM phATI jAya. paraMtu je dezamAM e thAya che tyAM loko nAnapaNathI ja enA svAdathI TevAI jAya che ane keTalAkane enuM vyasana lAgu paDe che. siMgApuranI badhI moTI hoTelomAM ane tyAM jatAM AvatAM vimAnomAM duriyAna khAvAnI manAI che. tema chatAM vyasanane karaNe e manAIno bhaMga thavAnA kissA paNa eTalA ja banatA hoya che. jagatamAM vicitratA kevI che ke je vAsathI keTalAka lokonuM mAthuM bhamI jAya te ja vAsathI bIjA loko utsAhita thaI jAya che.

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beljiyamanI elacI-kacerI huM javAno hato laMDanathI paeNrisa, paraMtu mArA mitra mahendrabhAI mahetAno eNnTavarpathI rAtanA phona Avyo : "huM muMbaIthI ahIM be divasa mATe Avyo chuM. matakAkAne tyAM chuM, mATe tame eNnTavarpa jarUra Avo. ApaNe sAthe rahIzuM. huM tamane eraporTa para levA AvIza." eNnTavarpa mahendrabhAInI janmabhUmi che. emanA pitA. gaphurabhAI prathama vizvayuddha pachI jhaverAtanA dhaMdhA mATe muMbaIthI kuTuMba sAthe enTavarpa jaIne ghaNI vAra rahetA. te vakhate mahendrabhAIno tyAM janma thayelo. mahendrabhAIno Agraha eTalo badho hato ke huM nA pADI zakyo nahi. eNnTavarpa thaIne paeNrisa javAnuM meM nakkI karyuM. mArI pAse beljiyamano visA na hato, eTale prathama te levAnI jarUra hatI. e maLe ke tarata vimAnanI TikiTamAM paNa e pramANe pheraphAra karavAno hato. bIje divase savAre huM beljiyamanI embesInI ophise TeksI karIne pahoMcyo. hoTelathI khAsse dUra hatuM, eTale TeksInA paisA paNa ThIkaThIka thayA. beljiyama embasInI oNphisano aradho daravAjo khullo hato. mane thayuM ke huM kadAca vahelo hoIza. aMdara DokiyuM karyuM to oNphisa haju cAlu thayelI na hatI. mAtra eka vRddha sajjana potAnA Tebala upara kazuMka TAIpa karI rahyA hatA. mane joIne pUchyuM, "zuM kAma che ?" mAre beljiyamano visA joIe che." "AvatI kAle Avo. Aje oNphisa baMdha che." "Aje kema. baMdha che ? laMDanamAM Aje badhI oNphiso to cAlu sAcuM. paNa ame amArA dezanI rajAo pALIe chIe. beljiyamamAM Aje rajA che." mAre to Aje ja eNnTavarpa javuM che. eka divasa mATe.

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25 beljiyamanI elacI-kacerI mane lAge che ke have mAre beljiyama javAnuM mAMDI vALavuM paDaze." "tame beljiyama pahelI vAra jAo cho ?" "hA." "tamAro pAsapaoNrTa batAvo to !" meM pAsapaoNrTa Apyo. emaNe e tapAsyo. pachI e pramANe vigato eka phaoNrma upara bharI dIdhI ane mane kahyuM, "ahIM sahI karo." e vIsAnuM phaoNrma hatuM. huM rAjI thayo. meM kahyuM, "tame mane vIsA Apo cho ?" hA." meM AbhAra mAnyo. sahI karI. emaNe kahyuM, "tamArA phoTAnI be nakala Apo." are ! phoTAnI nakala to hoTela para bhUlI gayo hato. have zuM thAya ? phoTA vagara to vIsA maLe nahi. meM kahyuM, "huM phoTAnI nakala hoTelamAM bhUlI gayo chuM. TeksI karIne laI AvuM ?" emaNe kahyuM, "TeksImAM tamane vAra lAgaze ane moMghu paNa paDaze. mAre tarata javAnuM che. huM mArA aMgata kAma mATe pAMcadasa miniTa mATe ophisamAM Avyo chuM." huM vimAsaNamAM paDyo. paraMtu emaNe kahyuM, "ciMtA na karazo. ahIMthI pAMca miniTanA raste vikToriyA basa-sTezana che. tyAM pravezadvAranI jamaNI bAju phoTo pADavAnuM oNTomaeNTika mazIna che. emAM be ziliMga nAkhazo eTale eka miniTamAM tamAro phoTo paDI jaze. traNa nakala mATenuM baTana dabAvo. eka nakala tamArI pAse raheze." huM cAlyo. anubhava mArA mATe navo hato. jema mazInamAM paisA nAkhavAthI cokaleTa, sigAreTa vagere maLe che tema tAtkAlika phoTo paDAvavA mATenI covIse kalAkanI A yAMtrika sagavaDa paNa videzamAM upakAraka bane che. basa-sTezane pahoMcIne e jagyA meM zodhI kADhI. eka nAnakaDI kaeNbina hatI. temAM badhI ja sUcanA spaSTa lakhI hatI : kyAM, kevI rIte besavAnuM kyAM jovAnuM, kyAM paisA nAkhavAnA, keTalA pojha joIe, keTalI nakala joIe, kyAre phalezalAiTa thAya ane phoTo paDe tathA keTalI

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26 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe vAramAM kyAMthI phoTAnI nakala maLe. phoTAnI nakala laI huM pAcho pharyo. e sajjana mArI rAha jotA daravAjAmAM UbhA hatA. mArI pAsethI phoTAnI nakala lIdhI, jAte vIsAnI arajImAM coMTADI ane mArA pAsaporTamAM vIsAno sikko mArI Apyo. teo koI kArakuna na hatA, ucca adhikArI hatA, te emanI sahI parathI meM jANyuM. meM emano khUba khUba AbhAra mAnyo. ame banne sAthe bahAra nIkaLyA. oNphisane tALuM mArI teo potAnI moTaramAM vidAya thayA. A anubhava Akho divasa mArA manamAM guMjato rahyo. rajAno divasa hato chatAM potAnA aMgata kAma mATe kacerIe AvelA ucca adhikArIe kacerIonI jaDa zistano Agraha na rAkhatAM premathI hasate mukhe eka videzInuM jAte phaoNrma bharI, phoTA coTADIne kAma karI ApyuM. AvI nAnakaDI ghaTanA kyAreka potAnA dezanI bIjAnA citta upara kevI sarasa chApa mUkI jAya che !

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vAgdattA mATe bheTa jApAnIjha bhASAmAM "IcI' eTale "eka" ane "dAIIcI' eTale sarvamAM prathama. jApAnamAM keTalIka kaMpanIo, vepArI peDhIo vagere "dAIIcI zabda potAnA nAma tarIke vApare che. TokyomAM eka hoTelanuM nAma che dAIIcI. darekamAM nAma pramANe guNa hovA joIe evuM nathI. dAIIcI hoTela zarU thaI haze tyAre kadAca e sArAmAM sArI gaNAtI haze. paraMtu Aje have tenA karatAM ghaNI bIjI moTI sArI hoTelo TokyomAM thaI gaI che. dAIIcI. hoTelamAM varSothI gujarAtIo Utare che. eTale jApAna jatA gujarAtIomAM tenuM nAma suparicita che. nIkono dhodha joIne ame pAchA pharyA pachI dAIIcImAM eka rAtarokAI bIje divase savAre amAre hirozimA javAnuM hatuM. mArA jApAnI mitra huno mane hoTela para mUkavA AvyA hatA. keTalAka samaya pahelAM ohanoe mane patramAM lakhyuM hatuM ke temanI sagAI nakkI thaI gaI che ane thoDA mahinA pachI temanAM lagna thavAnAM che. AthI muMbaIthI huM ohUnonI bhAvi patnIne bheTa ApavA mATe eka rezamI sTApha ane cAmaDAnuM pAkITa laI gayo hato. Tokyo pahoMcyo tyAre emanI sagAInI vAta nIkaLI. onoe kahyuM ke, emanI vAgdattA yunivarsiTImAM bhaNelI che ane hirozimAmAM rahe che. baMnenA eka vaDIla mitra dvArA temanI A sagAI nakkI thaI hatI. sagAI pachI baMne vAraMvAra maLyAM hatAM; sAthe ghaNI vAra pharavA gayAM hatAM, ane baMne ekabIjAne khUba cAhatAM hatAM. bIje divase huno sAthe mAre hirozimA javAnuM hatuM. eTale temanI vAgdattAne ApavA mATenI bheTa meM temane ApI dIdhI. bheTa joI teo khUba prasanna thayAM ane mAro AbhAra mAnyo. ohano ghare gayA. bIje divase savAre hoTela para mane levA AvavAnA hatA. huM mArA rUmamAM pAcho pharyo. ghaDiyALamAM joyuM to jaNAyuM ke vAtavAtamAM

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28 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe dhAryA karatAM ghaNuM moDuM thaI gayuM hatuM. khAvA mATe huM nIce Utaryo. hoTelamAM DAiniMgarUmamAM gayo to te baMdha thaI gayo hato. tyAM javAba ApanAra paNa koI na hatuM. nIce laoNbImAM risepzanisTane pUchyuM. eNe kahyuM, "mApha karajo, DAiniMgarUma dasa vAge baMdha thaI jAya che. have tamAre kaMI khAvuMpIvuM hoya to pahele mALe nAiTa resTorAMmAM jAo.'' huM pahele mALe gayo. tyAM cAre bAju najara karI, paraMtu kyAMya resTorAM jevuM dekhAyuM nahi. huM risepzanisTanI pAse pAcho gayo ane pharIthI pUchyuM. eNe kahyuM, "pahele mALe ja che; DAbI bAju khUNAmAM vaLajo.'' e pramANe huM gayo. eka vizALa khaMDa tyAM hato, paNa te khAlI hato. na maLe Tebala ke na maLe koI veiTara. mane thayuM ke mArI ke risepzanisTanI kaMIka gerasamaja thatI lAge che. meM pharI pAchA. tenI pAse jaIne kahyuM, "tyAM koI resTorAM nathI." mArI vAtathI tene hasavuM AvyuM. teNe mArI sAthe eka chokarAne mokalyo. nAiTa resTorAM batAvavA mATe jApAnI bhASAmAM tene sUcanA ApI. e chokaro e ja jagyAe mane laI gayo, jyAM huM be vakhata AMTo mArI Avyo hato. e khAlI khaMDamAM oNTomaeNTika mazIna batAvI eNe mane kahyuM, "A nAiTa resTorAM che." mazInamAM biskiTanAM paeNkeTo, kokAkolA, oNrenja, bIara vagerenAM TinanA DabbA goThavelA hatA. je joIe tene mATenA kANAmAM te pramANe yena (jApAnI nANuM) nAkhavAnA. eTale te vastu bahAra Ave. meM yena nAkhI biskiTa ane oNrenja lIdhAM. khAtAMkhAtAM manamAM hasato hato ke AvA slaoNTa mazInane A hoTelavALA nAiTa resTorAM kahetA haze te ApaNane zI rIte khabara paDe ? bIje divase savAre ohno mane samayasara teDavA AvI gayA hatA. jApAnI prakhyAta 'buleTa Trena'mAM ame hirozimA javA beThA. kalAkanA 120 mAIlanI jhaDape jatI A Trena che. AkhI Trena eNrakanDizanDa ane prezarAijhDa. beThako sarasa, sagavaDavALI, ArAmathI besI zakAya evI. Trena keTalI jhaDapathI cAle che te DabbAmAM rAkhelo kAMTo batAve. beThaka pAse svaccha kAcanI moTI moTI bArIo. Trena cAle ane vega pakaDe tyAre plaeNTaphaoNrma para UbhelA mANaso spaSTa dekhAya nahi. jANe lisoTA jhaDapathI pasAra thaI jatA lAge. pAse karatAM dUranuM vadhAre spaSTa dekhAya. pAMceka kalAkamAM ame hirozimA pahoMcI gayA. tyAM eka jApAnI paddhatinI hoTelamAM ame UtaryA. hoTelamAM palaMgane badale jamIna para gAdalAM pAtharelAM hatAM. nAhavA mATe bAtharUma, saMDAsa vagere jApAnI paddhatinAM, jamavAnuM paNa nIce besIne; bAjoTha upara pleTamAM pIrasavAmAM Ave.

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vAgdattA mATe bheTa 29 ghaNe aMze bhAratIya paddhati jevuM ja lAge. ohno potAnI vAgdattAne maLavA gayA. meM bheTa ApeluM paeNkeTa paNa sAthe letA gayA. meM hoTelamAM ArAma karyo. jApAnamAM mahemAnone ghera laI javAnI paddhati nathI. jApAnI mitro paNa ekabIjAne maLavA mATe koIne ghera na jAya. bahAra nakkI karelA sthaLe maLI le. koI ghera bolAve to te ADozIpADozInI TIkAne pAtra thAya. oho kalAka pachI pAchA AvyA. meM ApeluM pekeTa temanA hAthamAM ja hatuM. meM pUchyuM, "kema, tamArI vAgdattAne mArI A bheTa na ApI ?" "tamArI bheTa meM ene batAvI, ene bahu ja gamI che ane e mATe tamAro khUba khUba AbhAra mAnyo che." "to pachI tame e pAchI kema lAvyA ?" "pAchI ja lAvavAnI hoya ne ?" kema ?" "mArAM lagna hajI kyAM thayAM che ?" "eTale ? lagna pahelAM tame bheTa na Apo ?" "nA." "kAraNa ?" dhAro ke AvatI kAle te bIjA koI sAthe lagna kare to mArI bheTa nakAmI cAlI jAya ne ?" "paNa bheTa batAvIne tame Apo nahi to tene mAThuM na lAge ?" "nA, jApAnamAM koI e rIte mAThuM lagADe nahi. badhA ja samaje che. nakkI thayA pachI chokaro ke chokarI bIje paraNI gayAnA kissA ochA banatA nathI." jApAnanAM lokonA rItarivAjoe ane manodazAe mane vicAra karato karI mUkyo.

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20 10 viparyaya phijI e koI zaheranuM nahi, paNa dezanuM nAma che. kyAM Avyo e deza ? gujarAtanA ghaNA paTelo keniyA, yugAnDA, TAnjhAniyA, jhAMbiyA, malAvI, rhoziyA vagere AphrikAnA dezomAM jaIne vasyA che, tema phijImAM paNa jaIne vasyA che. eTale phijI deza AphrikAmAM Avyo che evo bhrama keTalAka gujarAtIone jUnA vakhatamAM hato. ane haju gAmaDAMnA keTalAka lokone hoya che. vastutaH phijI deza oNsTreliyAnI pUrve lagabhaga be hajAra mAIla dUra dakSiNa pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM Avelo che. be mukhya TApuo ane enI AsapAsa saMkhyAbaMdha nAnA nAnA TApuono banelo A deza che. eTalA mATe te 'phijI TApuo' tarIke oLakhAya che. vistAra ane vasatinI dRSTie te eTalo nAno deza che ke duniyAnA nAnA nakazAomAM to enuM TapakuM paNa jovA nahi maLe. bhAratathI lagabhaga dasa hajA2 mAIla dUra AvelA A dezamAM sthAnika phijiyana loko karatAM bhAratIya lokonI vasati vadhAre che, jemAM uttara bhArata, gujarAta ane dakSiNa bhAratanA loko mukhyatve che. phijImAM pharatAM hoIe to ApaNe bhAratanI bahAra pharIe chIe evuM khAsa lAge paNa nahi. eTalA mATe to phijIne 'pesiphikamAM nAnuM bhArata' tarIke oLakhAvavAmAM Ave che. bhAratIya lokomAM tyAM uttaranA bihAra taraphanA lokonI vasati vadhAre che. jUnA vakhatamAM zeraDInAM khetaromAM kAma karavA mATe abhaNa kheDUto tyAM jaIne vaselA, eTale haju paNa teo potAnI gAmaThI hiMdI bole che. enI asara tyAMnI gujarAtI bhASA upara paNa paDI che. phijImAM nAndI (athavA nAdI) nAmanA zaheramAM tyAMnA mAjI saMsadasabhya zrI haragoviMdadAsa loDhiyAne tyAM huM Utaryo hato. nAndI nAnakaDuM zahera che. ekAda kilomITara sIdhA lAMbA dhorI rastAnI baMne bAju dukAno che. basa eTaluM ja enuM bajA2 che. ochI vasati ane ochA TrAphikane lIdhe pramANamAM zahera zAMta che. ekabe kalAkamAM to AkhA zaheramAM pharI zakAya.

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viparyaya 31 ( nAndImAM zahera ane AsapAsanA vistAromAM meM pharI lIdhuM hatuM. ravivArano divasa hato eTale bajAra baMdha hatuM. sAMje kyAM pharavA javuM teno ame vicAra karatA hatA. eTalAmAM baoNmbe TreDiMga kaMpanIvALI aMbAlAlabhAI paTela amane maLavA AvyA. Agale divase e kAryakramamAM emano paricaya thayo hato. emaNe pUchyuM, "sAMjano zo kAryakrama che ?" basa, eno ja vicAra karIe chIe." meM kahyuM. "bIjuM kaMI nakkI na hoya to cAlo mArI sAthe laTaukA; samaya raheze to bA paNa jaI AvIzuM." laTIkA ane bA e be nAndI pAse AvelAM nAnakaDAM zahero che. gujarAtanA paTelonI tyAM sArI vasati che. aMbAlAlabhAInI gADImAM dariyAkinAre lagabhaga aDhAra mAIlanA raste laTIkA pahoMcyA. aMbAlAlabhAIe kahyuM, "ahIM hamaNAM navuM maMdira thayuM che. tyAM Aje bhaktisaMgItano ane AratIno kAryakrama che. tamane vAMdho na hoya to thoDI vAra tyAM paNa ApaNe jaIzuM." "jarUra. huM to tamArI AMgaLIe Avyo chuM. eTale tamArI anukULatA pramANe jyAM javuM haze tyAM coksa jaIzuM." meM kahyuM. laTakAmAM paNa aMbAlAlabhAInAM ghara ane dukAna che. emanA ghare cA pIne ame dariyAkinAre pharavA nIkaLyA. pharavA AvanArAMonI koI avarajavara tyAM na hatI. alabatta samudrakinArAnuM vAtAvaraNa zAMta ane ramaNIya hatuM. zItala havA vAtAvaraNane protsAhaka banAvatI hatI. meM aMbAlAlabhAIne kahyuM, ATalI sarasa pharavAnI jagyA che. vaLI Aje rajAno divasa che. chatAM ahIM koI mANaso kema dekhAtA nathI ?" aMbAlAlabhAIe kahyuM, "ahIMnA ApaNA loko pharavAnA bahu zokhIna nathI. Aje rajAno divasa hovAthI dukAna kAyadesara baMdha rAkhavAnI hoya che. chatAM aDadhuM bAraNuM khulluM rAkhIne ApaNA ghaNA vepArIo gerakAyade vepAra karatA hoya che. ApaNA lokonI A manovRtti haju paNa gaI nathI." "topaNa keTalAka to evA hoI zake ne ke jemane rajAne divase samudrakinAre pharavAnuM game ?" pharavAnuM nahi, paNa ramavAnuM jarUra game. juo, tyAM Aghe ghaNuM mANaso beThA che." ema kahI emaNe dariyAnI pALIthI ThIka ThIka dUra medAnamAM beThelA mANaso batAvyA.

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32 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe ame tyAM gayA. kudaratanuM khuzanumA vAtAvaraNa mANavAne mATe nahi, paNa pAnAM ramavAne mATe judAM judAM ToLAMmAM ghaNA badhA puruSo tyAM beThA hatA. aMbAlAlabhAIe mane haLavethI kahyuM, "ahIM vaselA ApaNA lokonuM A eka moTuM vyasana che." tyAra pachI emaNe tyAM beThelAmAMnA keTalAkano mane paricaya karAvyo. eka bhAIe potAnA ghare AvavA mATeno Agraha paNa karyo. emaNe ramI lIdhuM hatuM, eTale emanI sAthe ame emane ghare pahoMcyAM. taddana pAse ja emanuM AlIzAna vAtAnukUlita ghara hatuM. e bhAIe mane pUchyuM, "bIara lezo ke vhiskI ?" "huM koI haoNTa Drinka leto nathI. cA ke ThaMDuM pINuM haze to cAlaze." meM kahyuM. . emanI sAthe thoDI vAto thaI. laTaukAmAM ApaNA loko ghaNA paisA kamAya che. TekarI jevI UMcAI para AvelAM ghaNAMkharAM navAM Adhunika makAno bhAratIya lokonAM ane temAMye khAsa karIne gujarAtIonAM che. phijImAM AvIne vasyA pachI ApaNA ghaNA loko pazcimanI saMskRtithI pUrA raMgAI gayA che. alabatta, keTalAka bhAratIya saMskAra tyAM vasIne paNa TakAvI rAkhyA che. paraMtu bhAratamAM khAsa karIne moTAM zaheromAM banyuM che tema phijImAM paNa puruSomAM paheraveza pazcimano thaI gayo che. dArU, jugAra, thoDe aMze mAMsAhAra keTalAMka gharomAM vyApI gayo che. keTalAyane dharmanA abhyAsamAM ke dhArmika kriyAkAMDamAM bahu sakriya rasa rahyo nathI. loko paiseTake sukhI thayAM che, paraMtu sAMskRtika dRSTie thoDA pAchA paDyA che. e vAta jANI manamAM raMja thayo. thoDI vAra besI ame maMdire javA nIkaLyA. hare kRSNa sosAyaTI taraphathI laTakAmAM navuM baMdhAyeluM A maMdira che. laTakAnA ja eka gujarAtI bhAIe te bAMdhavA mATe moTI rakamanuM dAna ApyuM che. hare kRSaNa sosAyaTInAM maMdiro duniyAbharamAM enI svacchatA, adyatana sthApatya ane pavitra vAtAvaraNane mATe jANItAM che. enuM saMcAlana ghaNuMkharuM amerikI lokonA hAthamAM hoya che. maMdiramAM darzana karIne ame beThA. samaya thayo eTale bhaktisaMgItano kAryakrama cAlu thayo. chasAta amerikI yuvAno AvyA. temaNe bhagavAM kapaDAM paheryA hatAM. dhotiyuM, janoI, mastake muMDana ane coTalI, kapALamAM tilaka vagere vaDe temanI AkRti ja judI tarI AvatI hatI. kAramoniyama, tabalAM,

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viparyaya 33 sitAra, maMjIrAM vagerenA sAja vaDe temaNe vraja bhASAnAM pado gAvAnuM zarU karyuM. keTalAka zabdonA uccAro temane phAvatA na hatA, paraMtu gAvAmAM temanI tanmayatA dekhAI AvatI hatI. keTalAke UbhA thaI tAnamAM AvI jaI tALIo sAthe ke maMjIrAM sAthe ke Dholaka sAthe nAcavAnuM zarU karyuM. gorI cAmaDInA yuvAnone A badhuM karatAM joI amArI chAtI phUlatI hatI. kAryakrama pachI prasAda ApavAmAM Avyo. te kAMdAlasaNa vinAno zuddha zAkAhArI hato. hare kRSNa sosAyaTImAM joDAnArAoe sigareTa, dArU, mAMsa vagere haMmezane mATe choDavAnAM hoya che. A amerikI yuvAnoe te badhuM choDyuM hatuM. sosAyaTImAM keTalAka to potAnuM ghara paNa choDIne, brahmacarya-vrata dhAraNa karIne AjIvana sAdhu thaIne rahetA hoya che, ane saMsthA jyAre jyAre jyAM jyAM mokale tyAM tyAM teo jatA hoya che. bahAra nIkaLI pachI Akhe raste mArA manamAM vicAra ghoLAto hato ke laTakAmAM saMskRtiono keTalo moTo viparyaya pAse pAse jovA maLyo ! eka tarapha svecchAe pazcimanI saMskRtithI raMgAI gayelA keTalAka bhAratIya loko hatA ane bIjI bAju svecchAe bhAratIya dharma ane saMskRti sAthe ekarUpa banI gayelA keTalAka amerikIo hatA. Avo viparyaya bhAratamAM nathI, ema nahi. duniyAnA bIjA ghaNA dezomAM ane bIjI saMskRtio vacce paNa te jovA maLaze ja. paraMtu laTakAmAM pAsapAsenA sthaLe ane samayanA thoDA aMtare ja te jovA maLyo mATe enI chApa cittamAM gherI paDI.

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11 gheTAMmuMDana nyUjhIlenDamAM vAItomonI guphA jovA jatAM rastAmAM amArI basa maMgAtarAtA nAmanA eka nAnakaDA zahera pAse AvI pahoMcI. amAro DrAIvara amAro gAiDa paNa hato. eNe basa dhImI pADatAM kahyuM, "eksakyujha mi; mAya basa vila heva a Drinka." e zuM kahevA mAgato hato te enA thoDA judA uccArone kAraNe amane tarata samajAyuM nahi, paraMtu jyAre eNe basane peTrolapaMpa para lIdhI tyAre enuM ramUjI vAkya amane spaSTa thayuM. peTrola bharAvIne basa cAlI. DrAivare badhAne kahyuM, "maherabAnI karIne adhIrAM na thazo; have tamane paNa cA-pANI ApavAmAM Avaze. te mATe najIkanA eka phArmamAM tamane laI jAuM chuM. ApaNI TUrisTa kaMpanI taraphathI tyAM cA-pANInI vyavasthA karavAmAM AvI che." amArI basa dhorI rasto choDIne have sAMkaDA ane lAla mATInA kAcA raste eka TekarI caDhavA lAgI. jema basa UMce jatI gaI tema tema AsapAsanI nAnI lIlIchama TekarIo dekhAvA lAgI. A TekarIo upara cAre bAju chUTAMchavAyAM hajAro gheTAMo caratAM hatAM. svaccha bhUrA AkAza nIce AchA lIlA raMganAM ghAsiyAM medAnomAM nIcuM moDhuM karIne caratAM meMDhAMonuM dazya jovA jevuM hatuM. lIlI cAdaramAM jANe chUTIchavAI sapheda buTTI bharI hoya tevuM A dazya lAgatuM hatuM. caravAne kAraNe gheTAMo jANe ke khetaramAM sthira hoya tevAM dekhAtAM hatAM. amArA DrAivare kahyuM, "A badhAM vizALa khetaro ane gheTAMo eka ja mAlikanAM che. ApaNe enA ghare ja jaIe chIe." traNeka kilomITara pachI ame e ghare AvI pahoMcyAM. khetaronI vacce kaoNTeja jevuM lAkaDAnuM be mALanuM A ghara hatuM. bahArathI te sAduM paraMtu aMdarathI svaccha, sughaDa ane kalAkRtio tathA citronI vividha namUnAothI suzobhita hatuM. koI zrImaMtanuM ghara che evI tarata pratIti thaI. ame pahoMcyAM eTale mAlika ane enI patnIe amAruM svAgata karyuM. gAIDanI sUcanAnusAra ame badhAM eka vizALa DAiniMga-Tebala AsapAsa goThavAyAM. badhAMne cA-kaoNpha, biskiTa ane TosTa ApavAmAM AvyAM.

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gheTAMmuMDana 35 cA-pANI. pachI amane bAjunA eka vizALa khaMDamAM laI javAmAM AvyAM. tyAM UnanI ane gheTAMnAM cAmaDAMnI vividha vastuo - mojAM, maphalara, zAla, dhAbaLA, TopI, zarTa, sveTa2, jarasI, parsa vagere - goThavavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. vecavA mATe A badhI vastuo hatI. amArAMmAMthI keTalAMka sahelANIoe keTalIka vastuo kharIdI. tyArapachI amArA DrAivaranI vinaMtIthI phArmanA mAlike amane gheTAMmuMDananuM kArya (Sheep-Shearing) arthAta gheTAM parathI Una utAravAnI kriyA batAvavAnuM svIkAryuM. mAlika pahelAM amane koTejanI gelerImAM laI gayo ane AkhA phArmanI samaja pADI. cAre bAju patharAyelA A vizALa phArmanA judA judA vibhAga ane peTAvibhAga lAkaDAnAM pATiyAMnI vADa vaDe karavAmAM AvyA hatA. te dareka vibhAgamAM judI judI kakSAmAM hajAro gheTAM caratAM hatAM. gheTAMonuM vargIkaraNa temanI jAta, temanA uMmara, temanA Unano prakAra ane temanAM muMDananI tArIkha anusAra karavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. mAlike kahyuM, "A badhAM gheTAMone zaurakamano bahu Dara lAgato hoya che. svecchAe koI hajAmata karAvatuM nathI. amAre baLajabarIthI te karavI paDe che. alabatta be-cAra vakhata muMDana karAvyA pachI keTalAMka gheTAMo tenAthI TevAI jAya che. moTI uMmaranAM keTalAMka gheTAMo koIka vakhata bolAvavAmAM Ave eTale tarata goThavAI jAya che. paraMtu ekaMdare muMDana emane priya nathI. vaLI A badhAM gheTAMne ekaThAM karavAnuM kAma paNa agharuM che. te mATe moTA zikArI kUtarAono ame upayoga karIe chIe." mAlikanI sUcanA anusAra ame enI sAthe basamAM lagabhaga eka pharlAga dUra AvelA gheTAMmuMDana mATenA makAna tarapha gayA. amArI basa eka vADA pAse UbhI rahI. basamAMthI UtarI gheTAMonI vaccethI ame pasAra thayAM ane dAdara caDhI e makAnamAM pahoMcyAM. mukhya vADAmAMthI pasAra thatAM mAlike pAsapAsenA bIjA traNa vADAnA lAkaDAnA jhAMpA kholI kADhacA. mAlike tyArapachI IzAro karyo eTale emanAM patnIe kaoNTejanI bahAra pAMjarAmAM pUravAmAM AvelA kUtarAnI sAMkaLa choDI kADhI. moDhAnI sisoTI vagADIne izAro karatAM ja zikArI kUtaro jorajorathI bhasato, chalAMgo mArato gheTAMnA vADAo tarapha dhasyo. bIkanA mAryA gheTAMo eka vADAmAMthI bIjA vADAmAM ane bIjAmAMthI trIjA vADAmAM ema doDI gayAM. doDatAM doDatAM chevaTe muMDana mATenA makAnamAM nIce khullA rAkhelA daravAjAmAMthI

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36 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe aMdara bharAI javA sivAya temane chUTako nahoto. gheTAM makAnamAM bharAI gayAM eTale mAlike makAnano daravAjo baMdha karI dIdho. kUtaro pAcho potAnA pAMjarAmAM pahoMcI gayo ane mAlikanI patnIe tarata sAMkaLathI bAMdhI dIdho. phakta be miniTamAM ja ATalAM badhAM chUTAMchavAyAM gADaro ekaThAM karavAnuM kAma patI gayuM. mAlike kahyuM, "amAro A kUtaro 'Ubho thA.' 'besI jA', 'doDa', 'pAcho Ava', 'bhasa', 'gheTAMone ekaThAM kara', 'jamaNI bAju laI jA' ema bAra judA judA izArA moDhAnI sisoTI pramANe samaje che. te gheTAMone DarAve che. kyAreka gheTAMonAM ToLAM upara bhasato bhasato chalAMga mArIne caDI paNa jAya che, paNa phADI khAto nathI. gheTAMnA vyavasAyamAM zikArI kUtarA anivArya che. vaLI joke amAre tyAM cora-luTArAno Dara nathI, topaNa A phArmamAM ekalA rahevAmAM kUtarAone lIdhe amane salAmatI rahe che." kUtarAne izArAnI tAlIma ApatAM keTalo samaya lAge che ?' meM pUchyuM. "bahu vAra nathI lAgatI; paraMtu nyUjhIlaeNnDamAM izArAnI tAlIma pAmelA keLavAyelA taiyAra sarasa kUtarA klabamAMthI vecAtA maLe che. kUtarAne tAlIma ApanArI baso jeTalI dhaMdhAdArI klaba nyUjhIlaeNnDamAM che." phArma-mAlika amane makAnanA uparanA mALe muMDana mATenA kArakhAnAmAM laI gayo. tyAM bahu kharAba vAsa AvatI hatI. tyAM gheTAMone AvavA mATe traNa daravAjA hatA, ane dareka daravAjA pAse chatamAMthI laTakato ilekTrika astro hato. eka bAju moTA moTA kothaLAo pahoLA karIne laTakAvavAmAM AvyA hatA. kapAyeluM Una bharavA mATe te rAkhavAmAM AvyA hatA. gheTAMo A makAnamAM cheka uparanA mALe da2vAjA sudhI AvI pahoMce eTalI saMkhyAmAM vADAmAMthI choDavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. badhAM gIcogIca bharAIne UbhAM hatAM. badhAMnAM mAtra moDhAM dekhAtAM hatAM. keTalAMka gabharATamAM be be avAja karatAM hatAM. keTalAMke Darane lIdhe laghuzaMkA karI hatI. phArma-mAlike amane kahyuM, "A gheTAMo tarata samajI jAya che ke muMDana mATe temane ahIM ekaThAM karavAmAM AvyAM che. muMDana temane gamatuM nathI. eTale teo potAno aNagamo vyakta karatAM hoya che ane potAno vAro jaladI na Ave e mATe chaTakavAno prayatna karatAM hoya che." tyArapachI mAlike potAnuM zarTa utAryuM. kALA lAMbA baniyana ane kALA paeNnTa upara eNe eprana paherI lIdhuM. eNe lAkaDAnI aDadhiyA jALI

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gheTAMmuMDana 37 kholIne jhaDapathI eka gheTuM bocIthI pakaDIne UMcakI lIdhuM. gheTuM beM beM karavA lAgyuM ane chUTavA mathavA lAgyuM. paraMtu eTalI vAramAM to mAlike potAnA be ghUMTaNa ane sAthaLa vacce gheTAnA cAre paga dabAvIne jakaDI lIdhA. gheTuM have casakI zake tema nahotuM. te beM beM karatuM rahyuM. eNe pezAba karyo. mAlike DAbA hAthe gheTAnuM gaLuM pakaDyuM. jamaNA hAthamAM astro laI aMgUThA vaDe svica cAlu karIne gheTAnA zarIranA vALa e utAravA lAgyo. gha astro cAlyo ane gheTAnA zarIra u52 pharI vaLyo. pAMca miniTamAM to gheTuM Unarahita thaI gayuM. kyAM peluM hRSTapuSTa dekhAtuM bharAvadAra gheTuM. ane kyAM have A vatuM karAveluM sAva bokaDuM pAtaLuM gheTuM ! pAMca miniTamAM to bAreka kilo jeTaluM enuM vajana ochuM thaI gayuM. have te taddana nAnuM, pAtaLuM ane vicitra lAgatuM hatuM. halakuM thaI gayeluM e pote paNa vimAsaNanI koI vicitra lAgaNI anubhavatuM dekhAtuM hatuM. khabara na hoya to koI kahI zake nahi ke A e ja ghUMTuM haze ! enA zarIra upara koI koI jagyAe astro vadhAre ghasAvAne kAraNe lohInI Tazaro phUTI hatI. mAlike eka moTI Tyuba laI emAMthI lIlA raMganuM krIma hatheLImAM kADhyuM ane gheTAnA AkhAye zarIre copaDI dIdhuM. pachI eka moTA bATalAmAMthI eka pyAlAmAM davA kADhI ane gheTAnuM moDhuM baLajabarIthI pahoLuM karI davA enA moDhA vATe peTamAM ThAlavI dIdhI. mAlike amane kahyuM, "muMDana pachI A kALajI levI bahu jarUrI che. kAraNa ke jo te na laIe to dheTAne cAmaDIno roga thAya che ane te mAMduM paDI marI jAya che. vaLI muMDana pachI gheTAnI tAkAta ghaTI jAya che. ene lIdhe enA peTamAM roganAM jIvANuo thAya che ane gheTuM rogiSTha banI marI jAya che. peTamAM jIvANu utpanna na thAya mATe tarata davAno A Dojha pivaDAvavAmAM Ave che. dasa divasa sudhI rojaroja te niyamita pivaDAvAya che. daseka divasamAM dheTAMne thoDuM thoDuM Una AvyuM hoya che, ethI tenI tAkAta sahaje . vadhI hoya che. tyArapachI te potAnI meLe sAjuM rahe che." mAlike tyArapachI gheTAMnA vALanA namUnA jovA amane ApyA. paganA, peTanA, DokanA ane bAkInA zarIranA vALamAM spaSTa pharaka jaNAto hato. vALanuM vargIkaraNa karI judA judA kothaLAmAM bharavAmAM AvyA. gheTAMnA vALa muMDana pachI nIce gaMdI jagyAmAM paDavAne kAraNe bahu gaMdhAtA hatA. phArmanA mAlike amane kahyuM, "ilekTrika astrAnI zodha thayA pachI gheTAMne mUMDavAnuM kAma saraLa thaI gayuM che. pahelAM ame gheTAMne lAMbI kAtara vaDe mUMDatA tyAre eka gheTAne mUMDavAmAM lagabhaga aDadho kalAka cAlyo jato. gheTAne

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38 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe kAtara lAgI na jAya enI bahu saMbhALa rAkhavI paDatI. eTalA mATe enA zarIra para vALa rahevA devA paDatA. kAtara vaDe kezaloca ka2vAne lIdhe lAMbA vALa ochA UtaratA ane keTalIka vAra tenA TukaDA thaI jatA. ilekTrika astrA nIkaLyA pachI astro gheTAnI cAmaDIne aDoaDa pheravI zakAya che. eTale lAMbA vALa sArA pramANamAM Utare che ane gheTAne boDavAnuM kAma pAMcasAta miniTamAM patI jAya che. pahelAM eka divasamAM kAtara vaDe eka mANasa paccIsathI trIsa gheTAM boDI zakato. have astrA vaDe doDhaso jeTalAM gheTAM boDI zakAya che. ilekTrika astrA nIkaLyA pachI Unano vepAra ghaNo vadhI gayo che. koI koI moTA kArakhAnAmAM ekasAthe paMdara vALaMdo muMDananuM kArya karatA hoya che. eTalA ja bIjA mANaso gheTAMone hArabaMdha goThavavAmAM, Una ekaThuM karavAmAM ane kArakhAnuM svaccha rAkhavAmAM rokAya che. phArmanA mAlika pAse lagabhaga paMdara hajAra gheTAM che. ziyALA daramiyAna gheTAMnAM zarIre sAruM Una UgI gayuM hoya che. eTale ziyALA pachI gheTAMmuMDananuM kArya lagabhaga roja cAlatuM hoya che. keTaloka samaya to te mATe bIjA mANaso paNa rAkhavA paDe che. jema jema kothaLAomAM Una bharAtuM jAya tema tema UnanA kArakhAnAnA mANaso rojeroja AvIne Una laI jatA hoya che. A meluM, gaMdhAtuM, jIvAtavALuM Una kArakhAnAmAM rasAyaNo dvArA sApha thAya che. tenI jAta pramANe tenuM vargIkaraNa thAya che ane pachI te vaNATamAM cAlyuM jAya che. duniyAmAM uttama prakAranuM Una oNsTreliyA ane nyUjhIlaeNnDanA 'merino' jAtanAM gheTAMmAMthI maLe che. koI koI gheTAM paMdarathI vIsa kilo jeTaluM Una Ape che. merino uparAMta romane, pirendala vagere ogaNIsa bIjI jAta gheTAMonI nyUjhIlaeNnDamAM che jenuM Una sAruM gaNAya che. DrisDala nAmanAM gheTAM varasamAM be vAra Una Ape che. bhana mATenAM gheTAM(Woll-Sheep)nI ane mAMsa mATenAM gheTAM(Meet-Sheep)nI jAtamAM ane enA ucheramAM ghaNo pharaka hoya che. alabatta chevaTe to badhAMnI katala ja thAya che. AyuSya pUruM bhogavIne kudaratI motathI maravAvALAM gheTAM to koIka ja. varasAdane kAraNe khINamAM lapasI paDIne mRtyu pAmatAM gheTAMnI saMkhyA nyUjhIlaeNnDamAM varase doDha lAkhathI vadhu hoya che. nyUjhIlaeNnDanA arthataMtramAM gheTuM agatyanuM prANI che. trIsa lAkhanI vasativALA A nAnakaDA dezamAM gheTAMnI vasati ATha karoDathI vadhu che. keTalAka phArma-mAliko pAse be-traNa lAkhathI vadhu gheTAM hoya che ane teo UnanA bajAranA rAjA kahevAya che. AvA eka mAlike thoDA vakhata pahelAM laMDananI UnabajAranA bhAva gagaDAvyA hatA.

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gheTAMmuMDana 39 gheTAMmuMDananA makAnanA A khaMDamAM vALa, pezAba, lIMDI ane davAone kAraNe durgaMdha eTalI mAratI hatI ke amArAMmAMthI keTalAMke to moDhe ADo rUmAla rAkhyo hato. keTalAMka to thoDI vAramAM ja bahAra nIkaLIne UbhA rahyA hatA. pAMca-sAta miniTa UbhA rahevuM te pahelI vAra janArane mATe asahya hatuM. rojanI Tevane lIdhe gheTAM phaMDanArane te eTaluM asahya lAgatuM na hatuM. vyavasAyane kAraNe mANasa bhAtabhAtanI durgaMdhothI TevAI jAya che, kAraNa ke nAka karatAM peTa moTuM che. ame bahAra nIkaLatAM hatAM tyAre amArA gAiDe kahyuM, "maherabAnI karIne tamArAM bUTacaMpala barAbara sApha karIne nIkaLajo, nahi to AkhA raste durgaMdha tamane satAvaze.'' kArakhAnAmAM dAdara UtaratAM nIce pagaluchaNiyuM tAranA mizraNavALuM hatuM, kAraNa ke gheTAMnA gaMdA cIkaNA vALa pagarakhAmAM sakhata coMTI jAya che. tyAM pagarakhAM sApha karavA mATe sUcanA paNa lakhelI hatI. ame badhAM basamAM beThAM. bAbarI utarAvyA pachI kSINakAya banelA ane beM beM karatAM pelAM garIbaDAM gheTAMnuM dRzya amArI najara sAmethI khasatuM na hatuM. jema jema basa cAlI tema tema bahArathI khullo tAjo pavana AvavA lAgyo. cAre bAju prAkRtika sauMdarya nayanaramya hatuM. Ama chatAM thoDI vAramAM amArAM citta aprasanna banavA lAgyAM kAraNa ke basamAM kyAMkathI badabo prasaravA lAgI. DrAivarane enI tarata khabara paDI gaI. eNe basa UbhI rAkhI ane kahyuM, "meM sUcanA ApI hatI chatAM tamArAmAMnA koIke potAnAM pagarakhAM barAbara sApha karyAM lAgatAM nathI. have badhAMne utArIne mAre te tapAsavAM paDaze.'' ame badhAM basamAMthI nIce UtarI gayAM. daravAjA pAse UbhA rahIne DrAivare darekane vArApharatI paga UMco karAvyo ane pagarakhAMnAM taLiyAM tapAsyAM. amArAmAMnI je traNa mahilAo durgaMdhane kAraNe kArakhAnAmAMthI tarata nIkaLI gaI hatI teo potAnAM pagarakhAM sApha karyA vagara basamAM besI gaI hatI. emanAM paragakhAMne gheTAMnA gaMdhAtA vALa coMTI gayA hatA. DrAivare ApelA tIkSNa soyA vaDe teoe pagarakhAM sApha karyAM. DrAivare basamAM sAphasUphI karI. sugaMdhI davA chAMTI. ame badhAM basamAM beThAM. amArI basa pharI pAchI cAlavA lAgI. DrAivare kahyuM, "gheTAMnA vALanI durgaMdhano trAsa bahu moTo nathI. paraMtu e vALane kAraNe acAnaka tame kyAMka lapasI paDo e jokhama moTuM che. beda2kArIne kAraNe evA kissA koIka vakhata bane che. mATe amAre A sAvacetI rAkhavI paDe che.' a * gheTAMmuMDananA kAryakramano eka navo anubhava laI ame cAlyAM. kAco rasto choDI amArI basa have dhorI rastA para dhasatI jatI hatI, paraMtu peluM vicitra lAgatuM boDakuM baneluM meMDhakuM amArI najaramAMthI jaladI khasatuM nahotuM. .

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kuTuMbaprema amerikAmAM philADelphiyAmAM huM mArA mitra DaoN. paMkajabhAI vyAsane tyAM Utaryo hato. temanuM ghara tyAre ghaNuM nAnuM hatuM. ghara vize vAta nIkaLI tyAre temaNe. kahyuM, "amAre moTA gharamAM rahevA javuM che; paraMtu haju vAra lAgaze, kAraNa ke A ghara amAre pAchuM kone soMpavuM teno prazna che." "kema ? enI mAlikI mATe koI kAyadesaranI gUMca che ?" meM pUchyuM. nA; hakIkatamAM to enA mAlikIpaNAmAM atyAre koIne rasa nathI." "ema kema ?' "e ja to amerikana jIvananI eka khAsiyata che." paMkajabhAIe pachI vigate vAta karatAM kahyuM, "ame amerikAmAM rahevA AvyAM tyAre ghaNAMne moDhe sAMbhaLyuM hatuM ke "dhI phemilijha Ara brekiMga ina amerikA." joke ame te bahu sAcuM mAnatA na hatAM. paraMtu pachI to ame pote te najaronajara joyuM. amArA ja makAnamAM amArA makAnamAlikanuM kuTuMba nIce rahetuM hatuM. cAra sabhyanuM nAnuM kuTuMba hatuM. patipatnI ane dIkaro tathA dIkarI. baMne saMtAno yunivarsiTImAM bhaNe. paise-Take khUba sukhI kuTuMba, patine dArUnI jabarI Adata. eka divasa savAre patinuM acAnaka avasAna thayuM. bapore daphanavidhi thaI. rAtre mA ane dIkarI vacce kaMI jhaghaDo cAlyo. bIje divase savAre vidhavA mA ghara choDIne bhAgI gaI ane koIkane paraNI gaI. mA dIkarIne kahetI hatI ke, "mAro dhaNI marI gayo te potAnI dArUnI latane kAraNe. temAM mAro zo vAMka ? huM zA mATe duHkhI thAuM ?" mA bhAgI gaI. pachI bIje divase bhAI ane bahene pheMsalo karI lIdho. bhAI potAnI eka garlaphrenDa sAthe rahevA mATe kyAMka cAlyo gayo. bahena paNa potAnA eka baoNyaphrenDa sAthe paraNavA mATe bIje gAma bhAgI gaI. traNeka divasamAM A badhI ghaTanAo jhaDapathI banI gaI. traNa mahinA thayA, paNa koI pAchuM pharakyuM nathI. A gharanI mAlikImAM koIne rasa nathI. haju koIe AvIne amArI pAse bhADuM ugharAvyuM nathI, ke koI ekabIjAne maLyAM nathI. ame joyeluM kuTuMba ghaDIkamAM nAmazeSa thaI gayuM."

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41 kuTuMbaprema amerikAmAM yuvakayuvatIo game teTalAM zrImaMta hoya topaNa tarata potAnuM kamAvAnuM cAlu karI de che. mojathI paisA uDAve che. kyAreka khUTe to trAsa ApIne mAbApa pAsethI paDAve che. moTA thatAM, ane lagna thayA pachI to acUka mAbApa sAthe teo rahetAM nathI. lagna, chUTAcheDA ane punarlagnanA banAvo bahu jhaDapI banatA hoya che. ene lIdhe thoDA vakhata pahelAM joyelAM kuTuMbo enA e rUpe pharI tarata jovA maLe ke na maLe. - paMkajabhAIe kahelI vAta sAMbhaLI Akho divasa mAruM mana amerikana kuTuMbajIvana vize vicAra karatuM rahyuM. e divase sAMje ame paMkajabhAInI sAthe emane eka amerikana mitrane tyAM jamavA gayAM. ame pahoMcyAM eTale mitre potAnI patnIno ane traNa saMtAnono paricaya karAvyo. paricaya pachI saMtAno potapotAnA rUmamAM cAlyAM gayAM. jamavAmAM koI amArI sAthe joDAyAM nahi. jamatAM jamatAM bhArata ane amerikAnI raheNIkaraNInI ane kuTuMbavyavasthAnI vAta nIkaLI. bhAratamAM eka ja gharamAM traNa peDhI sAthe rahetI hoya evI vAtanI amerikana daMpatIne bahu navAI lAgI. paraNelo yuvaka potAnAM mAbApa sAthe rahe e ja jyAM agharuM manAya che, tyAM mAbApa uparAMta dAdAdAdI ane vaLI kyAreka kAkAkAkI ane emanAM saMtAno e badhAM ekasAthe rahe e to sAmAnya amerikanane jaladI gaLe na Utare evI vAta che. amArAM yajamAna amerikana daMpatIe phariyAda karatAM kahyuM, "amane amArAM saMtAnono prema maLato nathI. tame Aje mahemAna tarIke AvyA cho eTale amArA saMtAno upacAra khAtara tamane maLavA AvyAM ane tarata ja pAchAM cAlyAM gayAM. amArA koI paNa mitro maLavA Ave tyAre amArAM saMtAnone bolAvIe to mAtra "hallo karavA Ave. amastAM paNa teo amArI sAthe vAta karatAM nathI. kaMIka kahIe to sAmAM thaI jAya che. amArI moTI be dIkarIo to ghaDIkamAM eka to ghaDIkamAM bIjA chokarA sAthe cAracAra pAMca pAMca divasa rakhaDavA cAlI jAya che ane te paNa kahyA vagara, rAtanA enA rUmamAM na AvI hoya tyAre ja amane khabara paDe che ke e kyAMka rakhaDavA gaI haze !" potAnAM saMtAno mATenI emanI phariyAdamAM duHkha hatuM. AvI paristhitinA kAraNonI carcA cAlI. meM kahyuM, "AnAM ghaNAM kAraNo che. paraMtu pazcimanA dezomAM AmAM eka mahattvanuM kAraNa saMtAnone nAnI uMmarathI ja emanA potAnA judA oraDA ApI devAmAM Ave che e paNa che. pariNAme vyaktivAdI dezomAM saMtAnomAM ekalatAvAda janme che ane vadhe che. mAbApa

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42 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe pratyeno temano prema ocho thato jAya che.' dAkhalo ApatAM meM kahyuM, "zikAgomAM mArA eka bhAratIya mitrane tyAM huM rahyo hato. tyAre meM joyuM hatuM ke emaNe potAnA eka varSanA bALakane enA judA rUmamAM suvaDAvavAnuM cAlu karI dIdhuM hatuM. je bALaka ATalI nAnI uMmare svataMtra oraDAmAM ekaluM rojeroja AkhI rAta vitAve te bALakamAM mAtApitA pratyenI vahAlanI lAgaNI bahu na khIle te svAbhAvika che. mAnasazAstrIo paNa kahe che ke bALaka thoDuM moTuM thAya tyAM sudhI rAtre ene mAtAnA zarIranI hUMphanI jarUra rahe che. e mitrane meM Takora karI hatI paNa temane te bahu gamI na hatI. eTale amerikana bALako jevI ja temanA bALakanI sthiti thavAnI saMbhAvanA che.' amerikAmAM kuTuMbaaema nathI ja ema nahi kahI zakAya. paraMtu ekaMdare paraNyA pachI saMtAnono mAbApa pratyeno prema ane AvavAjavAno vyavahAra ocho thaI jAya che. loko paNa e paristhitithI evA TevAI gayA che ke enA karatAM vadhu lAgaNIsabhara sthitinI kalpanA ja temane hotI nathI. pazcimanA dezomAM A prazna gaMbhIra banato jAya che. temAM paNa jyAM patipatnI vacce rASTra, bhASA, dharma, saMskAra vagerenI dRSTie bhinnatA hoya che tyAM A prazna ethI vadhu vikaTa bane che. kuTuMbapremanI samasyA pazcimanA dezomAM jeTalI ugra che teTalI bhAratamAM nathI.

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pAnasunajoma ziyALAmAM Disembara mahinAmAM mArA bhAI bharatabhAI sAthe huM dakSiNa koriyAnA pATanagara sola (SEOUL - koriyAnA loko eno "sikala' nahi paNa "sola' uccAra kare che) gayo hato. solanAM tamAma makAno himAcchAdita thaI gayAM hatAM. solathI dakSiNa koriyAnI uttara sarahade pAnamunajoma nAmanA sthaLe javAno amAro kAryakrama hato. pAnamunomanuM nAma paDatAM ja kaoNlejamAM huM abhyAsa karato hato ane sAthe vartamAnapatramAM nokarI karato hato te samayanAM mArAM smaraNo tAjAM thayAM, kAraNa ke te samaye uttara ane dakSiNa koriyA vacce je laDAI cAlatI hatI tenA rojerojanA samAcAro ane chApAmAM chApatA. chevaTe yuddhavirAmanI zarato pAnamunoma nAmanA nAnakaDA gAmamAM thaI hatI e huM jANato hato. eTale tyAM javAnI vAta thatAM ja huM utsAhamAM AvI gayo hato. tapAsa karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke pAnamunajomamAM koriyanone javA detA nathI. mAtra videzIone ja javA devAmAM Ave che. dareke potAno pAsaporTa tyAM sAthe rAkhavo jarUrI che. pAnamunajoma javA mATe nAma noMdhAvyuM hoya topaNa tyAM adhikArIonI jo koI miTiMga goThavAI hoya athavA koI banAva banyo hoya to pravAsIo mATeno kAryakrama acAnaka rada karavAmAM Ave che. judA judA dezanA ane lagabhaga trIseka pravAsIo pAnamunajoma jovA mATe basamAM ravAnA thayA. basamAM besatAM pahelAM amArI TUranA gAIDe badhAMnA pAsapaoNrTa potAnI pAse rAkhI lIdhA. vaLI sUcanA ApatAM eNe kahyuM, "bIjI koI paNa TUra karatAM tamArI A TUra taddana anokhI che. A eka gaMbhIra TUra che. tamane vakhatovakhata sUcanAo apAtI raheze ane tamAre eno kaDaka amala karavAno raheze. temAM jarA paNa gaphalata thaze to tatkSaNa kAryakrama rada thaze ane tamane badhAMne tarata pAchAM mokalI devAmAM Avaze. ekanI bhUlane mATe badhAMne sahana karavuM paDe te mATe sAvadha rahezo. sUcanAo A pramANe che : pAnamunomanA vistAromAM (1) tamane hasavAnI manAI che, (2) sigAreTa pIvAnI manAI che, (3) keTalI jagyAe phoTo pADavAnI

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44 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe manAI che, (4) moTethI vAto karavAnI manAI che, (5) ekabIjAMne izAro karavAnI manAI che, (6) jUthamAMthI chUTA paDI ekalAM dUra javAnI manAI che, (7) pharaja paranA koI sainika sAme tAkI rahevAnI manAI che. jAtajAtanI manAInI sUcanAo sAMbhaLatAM ja keTalAkanA caherA gaMbhIra banI gayA. potAne vAMke badhAMnI TUra na bagaDe tene mATe sahu sAvaceta thaI gayAM. solathI lagabhaga sATha kilomITara dUra pAnamunajoma AvyuM che. amArI basa e dizAmAM cAlI. solanI sarahadamAMthI bahAra nIkaLI ame dakSiNa koriyAnA lazkarI vistAramAM dAkhala thayAM. amArA pAsapaoNrTa tapAsAyA. AgaLa jatAM rastAmAM philipAinsanA sainikonuM smAraka AvyuM. koriyAnA yuddhamAM je judA judA dezoe bhoga Apyo hato emAM philipAinsanA sainikonI khuvArI paNa ghaNI moTI hatI. temanI smRtimAM dakSiNa koriyAnI sarakAre A smAraka UbhuM karyuM che. amArI basa tyAra pachI eka sarahada upara AvI pahoMcI. badhAMnA pAsapaoNrTa ahIM pharIthI tapAsavAmAM AvyA. amArI basamAM eka amerikana lazkarI oNphisara AvI pahoMcyo. eNe amane badhAMne kahyuM, "pAnamunajomanI mulAkAta mATe havethI huM tamAro lazkarI gAiDa chuM. have tame badhAM mArA cArjamAM cho. mArI sUcanA pramANe ja badhAMe cAlavAnuM raheze. tamArI A TUranA gAiDe tamane badhAMne sUcanA ApI ja haze, chatAM te badhI huM pharIthI bolI jAuM chuM.'' ema kahI eNe badhI sUcanAo amane pharIthI kahI. tyAra pachI pAnamunajoma vize aitihAsika mAhitI ApatAM eNe kahyuM, "have ApaNe uttara koriyA ane dakSiNa koriyA vaccenA baphara jhonamAM dAkhala thaIe chIe. uttara ane dakSiNa koriyAnA bhAgalA pADatI doDhaso mAIla lAMbI ane be mAIla pahoLI A sarahada 'binalazkarI jhona' athavA baphara jhona tarIke TharAvavAmAM AvI che. tamane yAda haze ke bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate jApAna upara aNubaoNmba nAkhavAmAM AvyA te pachI tarata ja jApAne amerikAnI zaraNAgati svIkArI ane vizvayuddha baMdha thayuM. paraMtu A vizvayuddhanA chAMTA koriyAmAM judI rIte UDyA. tyAre AkhuM koriyA jApAnanI sattA nIce AvI gayuM hatuM. jApAne zaraNAgati svIkArI eTale amerikana sainikoe jApAna pachI tarata ja koriyAno kabajo levA mAMDyo. paraMtu e ja vakhate bIjA vizvayuddhanI yuropanI moTAmAM moTI sattA te soviyeTa yuniyane paNa potAnI bAjuthI koriyAmAM jApAnI sainiko pAse zaraNAgati svIkArAvI.

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pAnamunajoma 45 Ama baMne sattAo sAmasAmI AgaLa vadhatAM vadhatAM 38 akSAMzanI haroLa sudhI pahoMcI. tyAra pachI kaeNromAM yojAyelI pariSadamAM ane 1947mAM yunAiTeDa nezansanI janarala esemblImAM TharAva thayo ke uttara ane dakSiNa koriyAmAM mukta cUMTaNIo yojIne ene eka akhaMDita svataMtra rASTra banAvavuM. paraMtu 1948mAM soviyeTa yuniyane uttara koriyAmAM cUMTaNI thavA dIdhI nahi. dakSiNa koriyAmAM cUMTaNIo thaI ane temAM 'ripablika oNpha koriyA'nA nAmathI rASTranI racanA thaI. soviyeTa yuniyane cUMTaNI na karI, paraMtu tyAM DemokreTika pIpalsa ripablika oNpha koriyA'nA nAmathI sarakAranI racanA karI. pariNAme uttara ane dakSiNa koriyAne eka banAvavAnI yojanA ane AzA dhULamAM maLI. be hajAra varSathI eka ja prajA tarIke jIvI rahelA koriyanonI mAtRbhUminA be TukaDA thaI gayA.' '' 1950mAM soviyeTa yuniyane tAlIma ApelA uttara koriyAnAM lazkarI daLoe dakSiNa koriyA upara acAnaka AkramaNa karyuM. dakSiNa koriyA pAse pUrI taiyArI na hatI. amerikana daLone koriyA choDyAne eka varSa thaI gayuM hatuM. dakSiNa koriyAe potAnI A lAcArIbharI sthitimAM duniyAnAM rASTrone sahAya mATe araja karI. amerikA sahita oNsTreliyA, kaeNneDA, briTana, phrAnsa, philipAinsa vagere 16 dezoe potAnAM sainyone tAbaDatoba koriyAmAM mokalI ApyAM. uttara ane dakSiNa koriyA vacce bhayaMkara yuddha thayuM. uttara koriyA pIchehaTha karavA lAgyuM. ethI uttara koriyAnI sahAya mATe sAmyavAdI cIne potAnAM lazkarI daLo mokalyAM. A rIte lagabhaga eka varasa sudhI uttara ane dakSiNa koriyA vacce yuddha cAlyuM. 1951nA jUna mahinAmAM soviyeTa yuniyane yunAiTeDa nezansamAM yuddhavirAmanI darakhAsta mUkI. e svIkArAI eTale yuddhavirAma mATe vATAghATo zarU thaI. paraMtu yuddhavirAmanI e vATAghATo keTalo samaya cAlI haze ? be varasa ane sattara divasa. ATalA samayamAM baMne pakSa vacce vidhisaranI pAMcaso jeTalI beThako pAnamunomamAM yojAI. duniyAnA itihAsamAM yuddhavirAma mATe A lAMbAmAM lAMbI vATAghATo che. A samaya daramiyAna pAnamunajoma gAma to nAza paNa pAmI cUkyuM hatuM. jyAM vATAghATo yojAtI hatI te makAna paNa khaMDiyera thaI gayuM hatuM. pachIthI to vATAghATo paNa taMbUmAM yojavAmAM AvatI. yuddhavirAmanI badhI zarato nakkI thaI ane 1953mAM julAInI satyAvIsamI tArIkhe pAnamunajomamAM savAre dasa vAge sahIsikkA karavA mATe chellI beThaka

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46 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe yojavAmAM AvI. A beThaka mATenuM makAna navuM bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM. soviyeTa yuniyananI madadathI sAmyavAdI koriyAe 72 kalAkamAM te bAMdhyuM. 400 majUro covIsa kalAka kAma karatA rahyA ane beThakanA samaye makAna taiyAra thaI gayuM. yuddhavirAma dastAveja upara sahIsikkA karavA mATenI beThakamAM sahI karanArAo hatA : (1) yunAiTeDa nezansa kamAnDanA, (2) koriyana pIpalsa ArmInA ane (3) cAinIjha pIpalsa vaoNlanTiyarsanA mukhya pratinidhio ane sarasenApatio. savAre barAbara dasanA Takore beThaka maLI. 18 nakalo upara temaNe badhAe vArApharatI sahIo karI. badhA ja atiyaza gaMbhIra hatA. A beThakamAM koI eka zabda paNa bolyA nahi. sahI karavAnuM kAma patyuM eTale gaMbhIra cahere sau UbhA thayA. na koIe AnaMda vyakta karyo, na caherA para smita pharakAvyuM, na hAtha milAvyA, na AbhAra mAnyo. UbhA thaIne pote je daravAje AvyA hatA te daravAjethI teo cUpacApa pAchA cAlyA gayA. ATalI badhI aupacArika, gaMbhIra, ThaMDI, zabdarahita ane niprANa beThaka yuddhonA itihAsamAM bhAgye ja bIjI hoI zake. uttara ane dakSiNa koriyA vacce Aja divasa sudhI haju suleha ane zAMti sthapAI nathI. mAtra yuddhavirAmanI sthiti ja cAlyA kare che. baMne pakSo vacce yuddhavirAmanI zaratono bhaMga thAya to te mATe nizcita karelA samaye pharaja paranA oNphisaro beThakano samaya nakkI kare che. AraMbhanAM varSomAM binalazkarI vistAramAM game tyAM beThaka yojI zakAtI. paraMtu keTalAka pharaja parama ophisarone chUpI rIte goLIthI vIMdhI nakhAyA pachI koIne ekabIjAnI sarahadamAM javuM na paDe te mATe baMne dezonI barAbara vacce joInTa sikyoriTI eriyA nakkI karavAmAM Avyo che ane tyAM kaoNnpharansa hola bAMdhavAmAM Avyo che. A haoNlamAM Tebala paNa evI rIte goThavavAmAM AvyAM che ke jethI TebalanI upara barAbara adhavaccethI uttara ane dakSiNa koriyAnI hada darzAvatI rekhA pasAra thAya. Tebala upara sIdhI lITImAM goThavelAM mAikanA vAyara vaDe A hada darzAvavAmAM AvI che. iMca iMca mApImApIne uttara ane dakSiNa koriyA vaccenI sarahada TebalanI adhavaccethI pasAra thAya che. be dezo vacce ATalI custa sarahadarekhA duniyAmAM bhAgye ja bIje kyAMya haze ! yuddhavirAmanA bhaMga mATe atyArasudhInA trIseka varSanA gALAmAM dakSiNa koriyAe pistAlIsa hajAra vAra phariyAda karI che. temAMthI pahelA varSe uttara koriyAe phakta be vakhata yuddhabhaMga karyAnI kabUlAta karI. paraMtu pachIthI eNe game te prakArano yuddhabhaMga karyo hoya ane ophisarone ThAra karyA hoya, topaNa

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pAnamunajoma 47 eka ja TUMko javAba ApavAnuM zIkhI lIdhuM che : "ame sAva nirdoSa chIe. ame yuddhavirAmano bhaMga karyo nathI." yuddhavirAmanA A pradezamAM dAkhala thatAM pahelAM amArI pAse eka phaoNrmamAM sahI karAvI levAmAM AvI. temAM lakhyuM hatuM : "acAnaka goLIbAra thAya ke taMga paristhiti thAya ane koIne kaMI paNa IjA thAya ke mRtyu thAya to tene mATe yunAiTeDa nezansa oNragenAijhezana javAbadAra nathI." tyAra pachI yunAiTeDa nezansanA eka ucca lazkarI adhikArI potAnI jIpamAM besIne AvyA. teo amArI basane potAnI jIpanI pAchaLa pAchaLa dorI javA lAgyA. amane batAvavAmAM AvyuM ke be mAIla pahoLA binalazkarI jhonanA saLaMga vistAramAM dakSiNa koriyAnA je lokone AvIne vasavuM hoya te vaso zake che. tevI rIte vasavATa karanArane karaverAmAMthI mukti paNa ApavAmAM Ave che. paraMtu thoDA lAcAra garIba kheDUto sivAya koI tyAM AvIne vasyuM nathI. kAraNa ke temAM jAnanuM jokhama raheluM che. amArI basa have jaoNinTa sikyoriTI eriyAmAM dAkhala thaI. A bahu ja kaDaka baMdobastavALo vistAra hato. amane badhAMne lazkarI amaladAronA raheThANa pAse eka haoNlamAM laI javAmAM AvyA. tyAM uttara ane dakSiNa koriyA vacce thayelA yuddha ane yuddhavirAma vizenI keTalIka slAiDa batAvavAmAM AvI. amArAmAMnA keTalAke A badhI aitihAsika mAhitImAM ThIkaThIka rasa dAkhavyo. keTalAke prazno pUchyA. ethI amerikana lazkara oNphisara rAjI thayo. pachI amAre kaoNnpharansa haoNlamAM javAnuM hatuM. te mATe oLakhapatra tarIke darekane eka billo paheravA ApavAmAM Avyo. konpharansa haoNlamAM ame dAkhala thayA. vAtAvaraNa atizaya gaMbhIra ane gamagIna hatuM. koInA caherA upara smita nahotuM. balke smita karavAnI kAyadesaranI manAI paNa hatI. barAbara vacce goThavelAM Tebalo uparathI uttara ane dakSiNa koriyAnI sarahadanI je lITI pasAra thAya che te ame joI. ahIM Tebala ke enI AsapAsanI khurazIne amAruM vajra paNa aDI jAya to te yuddhavirAmano bhaMga gaNAya. e mATe bahu sAcavIsAcavIne dhIme dhIme haoNlamAM pharatA hatA. jevA ame dAkhala thayA ke tarata ja uttara koriyAnA pharaja paranA sainiko haoNlanI kAcanI bArIonI bahAra AvIne UbhA rahyA. jhINI AMkho ane kaDaka mukhamudrA sAthe temaNe badhAe potAnA kaeNmerA amArI sAme tAkIne rAkhyA. koI hase, izAro kare, sigAreTa pIe, Tebala ke khurazIne aDe to tarata eno phoTo ane muvI philma laI levA mATe teo '

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48 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe sajja hatA. A haoNlamAM phoTo pADavAnI amane chUTa hatI. amArAmAMnA eka pravAsIne phoTo pADavAnI IcchA thaI. te mATe teNe kemerAnuM kavara kADhyuM ane phoTo pADavA jAya te pahelAM ja uttara koriyAnA sainikonA kaeNmerAnI phalezalAiTo ekadama jhabakI UThI. temano muvI kaeNmerA paNa cAlu thaI gayo. ame stabdha thaI gayA. amArI zI bhUla thaI te khabara na paDI, paraMtu . amArA lazkarI gAIDe. trADa pADI, "laI lo Tebala parathI tamArA kemerAnuM kavara." je pravAsIe phoTo pADavA mATe kaeNmerAnuM cAmaDAnuM kavara kholyuM temanAthI potAnuM e kavara saratacUkathI kaoNnpharansanA Tebala upara mukAI gayuM hatuM. tarata te upADI levAmAM AvyuM. paraMtu amArAthI yuddhavirAmanI zaratono have bhaMga thaI cUkyo hato. ame gabharAyAM, kAraNa ke sUcanA pramANe AvuM kiMI paNa thAya to amArI TUra rada thavAnI hatI. amane lAgyuM ke have tarata ja amane badhAMne basamAM besADIne A vistAramAMthI bahAra kADhavAmAM Avaze. paraMtu amArA lazkarI gAIDe eka kSaNa vicAra karIne kahyuM, "tamArI gaMbhIra bhUla thaI che. paraMtu A kAryakramamAM tame je rasa dAkhavyo che te jotAM tamArI TUra huM rada karato nathI. have vadhu sAvadha rahevA mATe badhAMne pharIthI kaDaka cetavaNI ApuM chuM. bIjI vAra bhUla thaze to tarata TUra rada thaze." haoNlanI TebalanI bIjI bAju uttara koriyAnI sarahadono bhAga hato. yuddhavirAmanI zarata anusAra ame tyAM jaI zakatA hatA. amArA gAIDe kahyuM, "tamArAmAMthI e sarahadamAM jene javuM hoya te jaI zake che." paraMtu gabharATanA mAryA koI tyAM javA taiyAra na thayAM. TebalanI bAjumAM sAMkaDI jagyAmAMthI pasAra thatAM kadAca kazAkane sparza thaI javAnI bIka paNa hatI. meM gAIDane kahyuM, "mane javAmAM vAMdho nathI, paraMtu Tebala ke khurazIne mAruM vastra aDI javAnI bIka che." gAIDa mArI muzkelI samajI gayo. eNe tarata pharaja paranA sainikone bolAvIne Tebala ADe evI rIte UbhA rAkhyA ke jethI sainikanI bAjumAMthI pasAra thatAM amAruM vastra Tebala ke khurazIne aDe nahi. ame thoDAka pravAsIo uttara koriyAnI sarahadamAM dAkhala thayA. amArA gAIDe kahyuM, "sAmyavAdI dezomAM phakta A eka ja evI jagyA che ke jyAM tame mukta nAgarika tarIke harIpharI zako cho. tamArI IcchA hoya to tame uttara koriyA viruddha, soviyeTa yuniyana ke cIna viruddha je kaMI bolavuM hoya to te tyAM bolI zako cho. kAraNa ke tamane A jagyAe vANIsvAtaMtryano haka yuddhavirAmanI zarata anusAra maLe che." gAIDe to kahyuM, paraMtu evuM bolavAnI hiMmata konI cAle ? ane

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pAnamunajoma 49 jarUra paNa zI ? vastutaH e vistAramAMthI jhaTa jhaTa dakSiNa koriyAnA vistAramAM pAchAM pharavAnI vRtti e bAju gayelA pravAsIonI dekhAtI hatI; thoDI kSaNomAM ja ame amArA vistAramAM pAchAM AvI gayAM. kaoNnpharansa haoNla pachI amane oNbjharvezana gaeNlerImAM laI javAmAM AvyAM. tyAMthI uttara koriyAnA vistAramAM dUra dUra sudhI judA judA cekaposTa upara sainiko satata cokI karI rahelA ane bAyanokyulara vaDe nirIkSaNa karI rahelA dekhAyA. teomAMnA koInI sAme vadhAre vakhata tAkI rahevAnI ke AMgaLI vaDe izAro karavAnI amane manAI hatI. tyAra pachI amane bIjI eka TekarI para laI javAmAM AvyAM. hAthapaga thIjI jAya evo ziyALAno ThaMDo pavana tyAM vAto hato. tyAM amane yunAiTeDa nezansanA be oNphisarone uttara koriyAe goLIothI ThAra mAryA hatA te sthaLa batAvavAmAM AvyuM. tyAM AgaLa pahelAM eka moTuM vRkSa hatuM. te ghaTAdAra vRkSane lIdhe cekaposTa upa2thI uttara koriyAno eTalo bhAga dekhAto na hato. eno geralAbha laI uttara koriyAe A duSkRtya karyuM hatuM. oNphisaronAM khUna pachI yunAiTeDa nezanse e vRkSanI ghaTA kapAvI nAkhI. enuM ThUMThuM e be oNphisaronI yAdagIrI mATe haju paNa rAkhyuM che. jaoNinTa sikyoriTInA vistAranAM AvAM bIjAM keTalAMka aitihAsika sthaLo batAvIne amane pAchAM binalazkarI jhonamAM laI AvyA. tyAM ame lazkarI kenTInamAM bhojana lIdhuM ane tyAMthI basamAM besI sola pAchAM pharyAM. eka ja prajA tarIke haLImaLIne jIvatA eka ja dezanA loko bahAranI rAjadvArI sattAone kAraNe vaheMcAI jaIne ekabIjAnA kevA duzmana banI jAya che tenuM pratyakSa darzana pAnamunajome amane karAvyuM.

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sarakArI svacchatA zrIlaMkAmAM kaeNnDI ane avArAeliyA e be suprasiddha sthaLo jovA ame gayAM hatAM. kolambomAM amArA yajamAna, siMdhiyA sTIma naivigezana kaMpanInA ejanTa zrI morArajIbhAI uddezIe potInI marsiDijha gADI amane ApI hatI. emano DrAivara priyadAsa zrIlaMkAnA badhA rastAono sAro mAhitagAra hato. kolambothI savAre nIkaLI ame kaeNnDI pahoMcI gayAM. rastAmAM eka sthaLe resTorAMmAM ame nAsto karyo. dakSiNa bhAratanI IDalI, DhoMsA vagere vAnagIo to zrIlaMkAmAM ghaNe sthaLe maLe che. paraMtu te uparAMta pitta (puSkaLa tAjuM chINeluM koparuM nAkhelI khIcaDI jevI vAnagI), sTrigApasa (meMdAnI seva) vagere zrIlaMkAnI potAnI svAdiSTa vAnagIo badhe maLatI hoya che. zrIlaMkA eTale nALiyerIono deza. sArAmAM sArAM lIlAM nALiyeranuM pANI taddana sastA bhAve Thera Thera pIvA maLe. ghaNAM resTorAMmAM tAjA koparAno rasa kADhIne Ape che. ame pitta, sTrigApasa ane koparAnA rasano nAsto karyo. zrIlaMkAmAM cA paNa puSkaLa thAya che ane khUba vakhaNAya che. tyAMnI cAnI sugaMdha ja nokhI hoya che. tyAM ghaNA loko dUdha nAkhyA vagara cA pIe che. eno svAda eTalo madhura hoya che ke dUdhanI khoTa na lAge. ame paNa evI cA pIdhI. kenDImAM buddhamaMdiranAM ame darzana karyA. ahIMnA stUpamAM bhagavAna buddhanA dAMta rAkhavAmAM AvyA che. kenDIthI ame avArAeliyA AvyAM. tyAM eka rAta rokAvAnAM hatAM, paraMtu Aje tyAM rAjya taraphathI phUTabaoNlanI moTI phAinala maeNca ramAvAnI hatI eTale badhI hoTelo bharAI gaI hatI. amArI pAse gADI hatI eTale eka pachI eka hoTelomAM tapAsa karavAnuM saraLa hatuM. paraMtu koI sArI hoTelamAM jagyA na maLI. chevaTe eka sAdhAraNa hoTelamAM jagyA maLI. eka oraDAmAM sUvAnA pAMcA khATalA sivAya bIjI koI sagavaDa tyAM nahotI. gAdalAM paNa gaMdhAtAM hatAM. jematema ame tyAM rAta pasAra karI. bIje divase savAre tarata ame nIkaLI gayAM. cApANI rastAmAM karI laIzuM ema vicArI ame vahelAM nIkaLI gayAM hatAM. zrIlaMkA bIjA dezonI sarakhAmaNImAM pravAsIonI sagavaDanI dRSTie pachAta deza che. khAvApIvA ke rahevAnI sagavaDa rastAmAM ochI hoya che. alabatta, keTaleka sthaLe sarakAre

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sarakArI svacchatA pote resTorAM ane rAtrimukAma mATenAM gesTahAusa cAlu karyAM che. nuvArAeliyAthI amArI gADI kolambone raste cAlavA lAgI. koI resTorAM Ave to cApANI ka2vA maLe enI ame rAha jotAM hatAM. bhUkha paNa lAgI hatI, paraMtu rastAmAM koI resTorAM dekhAI nahi. chevaTe eka sthaLe eka resTorAM dekhAI. sarakAra taraphathI cAlatI e resTorAM hatI. ame emAM dAkhala thayAM. resTorAMmAM pAMceka suMdara Tebala hatAM, paraMtu koI gharAka dekhAtA na hatA. dUrathI jotAM resTorAMnAM Tebala kALI chAMTavALA AchA lIlA raMganA sanamAikAthI cakacakita lAgatAM hatAM. "resTorAM nAnI che, paNa Tebala sarasa kALAM TapakAMnI DijhAinavALAM lAge che." meM kahyuM. 51 eTalAmAM Tebala pAse pahoMcI gayelA mArA dIkarA amitAbhe kahyuM, "kALAM TapakAM nathI. A to kAMLI mAkhIo Tebala upara beThI che.' "ema ? paNa dUrathI mAkhIo jANe kALAM TapakAM jevI sthira lAge che. kema koI UDatI nathI ?'' amitAbhe hAtha halAvI mAkhIo uDADavAno prayatna karyo. paraMtu eka paNa mAkhI UDI nahi. "kadAca badhI marelI paDI haze ?' meM kahyuM. paraMtu Tebala pAse jaIne ame barAbara joyuM to koka koka mAkhI marelI hatI. bIjI badhI jIvatI hatI. eTalAmAM veiTara AvI pahoMcyo. ame tene pUchyuM, "Ama kema ?" eNe kahyuM, "sarakAra taraphathI svacchatA rAkhavAno amane hukama che. ahIM mAkhIono upadrava ghaNA che. eTale te mATe ame sarakAre ApelI davAM vAparIe chIe. badhAM Tebala upara jherI davA ame copaDI dIdhI che. A cIkaNI davAmAM mAkhI AvIne bese ke tarata ja enA paga coMTI jAya che. pachI te UDI zakatI nathI thoDI vAre te potAnI meLe marI jAya che.' A dRzya joI amane arerATI chUTI. ame pAchAM pharatAM hatAM, veiTare * kahyuM, "beso, sAheba ! Tebala sApha karI dauM." cA ane TosTa mATeno amAro oNrDara levAyo. veiTara eka pleTa laI Avyo. potAnA hAtha vaDe Tebala sApha karI teNe badhI mAkhIo te pleTamAM ! nAkhI. pleTa bharAI gaI. e pleTa bIjA Tebala upara eNe mUkI.

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pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe kacavAte mane ame beThAM. cA ane TosTa AvyAM. TosTa mATe ame bIjI eka vadhu pleTa mAgI eTale veiTare mAkhIvALI pleTamAMthI mAkhIo e Tebala upara ThAlavIne amane te ApI. ame kaMI kahevA jaIe te pahelAM to aDadhA TosTa potAnA hAthe mAkhIvALI khAlI pleTamAM eNe goThavI dIdhA. amane sUga caDhI. ughADA hAthe jherI davAmAM coMTelI mAkhIo teNe pleTamAM bharI ane e ja pleTa khAlI karIne e ja hAtha vaDe teNe TosTa goThavyA. A badhuM eNe keTalI svasthatA ane gharAka mATenA utsAhathI karyuM ! paraMtu amAre pakSe svasthatA ke utsAha baMneno abhAva hato. ame UbhAM thaI gayAM. para svacchatA mATenA sarakAranA Agrahano A kevo vicitra anubhava hato ! "ATalI badhI mAkhIo mAratAM e lokono jIva kema cAlato haze ?' amArAMmAMnAM eke kahyuM. "A loko to hajI sArA che. meksikomAM eka jAtinA evA loko che ke je pAMu upara cIkaNI jelI copaDIne evI rIte rAkhe che jethI mAkhIo tenA upara besIne coMTI jAya. te pachI te pAMu.mAkhIo sAthe teo khAya che.' meM kahyuM. resTorAMmAM ame kazuM khAI na zakyAM. bila cUkavIne ame tarata bahAra nIkaLI gayAM. veiTara amane joI rahyo. pote kazIka bhUla karI che evI vimAsaNamAM paDI gayo. amArI gADI AgaLa cAlI. rastAmAM bIjI koI resTorAM dekhAtI na hatI. ThIka ThIka samaya pachI eka nAnakaDI nadIne kinAre sarasa resTorAMmAM ame pahoMcyAM. tyAre cApANI ane jamavAno samaya amArA mATe eka thaI gayo hato.

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11mI julAI 1979 uttara ane dakSiNa amerikAnI vacce kerebiyana samudra che. temAM AvelA TApuo vesTa inDijha tarIke oLakhAya che. aMgrejonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna ghaNA bhAratIya lokoe tyAM jaI kAyama vasavATa karyo che. huM ane mArAM patnI vesTa inDijhamAM TrinidAda gayAM hatAM. tyAMthI kArAkAsa thaIne riyo-dijAnero ame javAnAM hatAM. kArAkAsa e venejhuelAnuM pATanagara che. riyo jatAM rastAmAM te Ave. TrinidAdanA "paoNrTa oNpha spena nAmanA zaherathI riyonI sIdhI ekeya phalAiTa na hatI, eTale kArAkAsamAM amAre vimAna badalavuM paDe ema hatuM. amArI icchA kArAkAsamAM be divasa rahevAnI ane pharavAnI hatI, paraMtu te mATe venejhuelAno vIsA joIe. dilhImAM venejhuelAnI kacerInA amaladAre mane jaNAvyuM hatuM ke emanA dezanA vIsA mATe ochAmAM ochAM cha aThavADiyAM pahelAM arajI karavI joIe, kAraNa ke pratyeka bhAratIya pravAsI mATe potAnI sarakArane lakhIne alaga paravAnagI teoe maMgAvavI paDe che. venejhuelA bhAratIya pravAsIo mATe ghaNuM kaDaka che ema tenI vAta parathI jANavA maLyuM, eTale kArAkAsa javAnuM ame mAMDI vALyuM. Ama paNa arajI karavA mATeno cha aThavADiyAno samaya paNa amArI pAse nahoto. vimAna badalavA mATe eNraporTa upara UtaratA vimAnamAMthI kArAkAsa zaheranuM vihaMgadarzana thaze eTalAthI amAre saMtoSa mAnavo rahyo. paraMtu nyUyorkathI paoNrTa oNpha spenamAM ame gayAM tyAre pAna-amerikananI oNphise amane jaNAvyuM ke bhAratIya nAgariko mATe vimAna badalavA mATe paNa venejhuelAnI sarakArano TrAnjhiTa vIsA joIe, sivAya ke tame venejhuelAnI potAnI eralAInsamAM pravAsa karatA ho. ethI ame venejhuelAnI viAsA eNralAInsamAM pahoMcyAM. tyAM karmacArI yuvatIe kahyuM, "Ama to jo ame javAbadArI laIe to amArI eralAInsamAM pravAsa karanAra bhAratIya nAgarikane vimAna badalavA mATe TrAnjhiTa vIsA na joIe. paraMtu ame koInI javAbadArI letA ja nathI, kAraNa ke amArI sarakAra ghaNI sakhata che, mATe tame amArI kosyuleTamAMthI TranjhiTa visA laI Avo." eTale paoNrTa opha spenamAM AvelI venejhuelAnI kosyuleTanI oNphise ame gayAM. tyAM ghaNI vAra besI

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54 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe rahyA pachI amAro naMbara lAgyo. paraMtu oNphisare amane kahyuM, "bhAratIya nAgarikane ame vimAna badalavA mATe TrAnjhiTa laoNnjamAM javAnI paravAnagI paNa ApatA nathI. e joItI hoya to cha aThavADiyA pahelAM arajI karIne venejhuelAnI sarakAranI saMmati meLavavI paDe che. vimAna badalavA mATe paNa sarakAra ATalI badhI kaDaka hoya evuM bahu ochA dezonI bAbatamAM jovA maLe che. be dezonI sarakAro vacce paraspara saMbaMdha kevA che tenA upara e AdhAra rAkhe che. venejhuelAmAM hAla lazkarI zAsana che ane bhArata jevA hajAro mAIla dUranA dezanI ene zI garaja hoya ? vaLI jUnA vakhatathI AphrikA ane vesTa inDijhamAM vaselA keTalAka bhAratIya loko vyavasAya arthe vasavATa mATe AsapAsanA dezomAM corIchUpIthI ghUsI jatA hoya che. eTalA mATe keTalAka dezo bhAratIya nAgariko mATe bahu ja kaDaka hoya che. yuropa ke amerikAnA loko mATe teo eTalA kaDaka hotA nathI. amArI pAse TikiTa evI hatI ke amAre tArAkAsamAM vimAna badalavuM ja paDe. tyAM gayA vagara chUTako na hato. eTale ame amArA eka mitranI bhalAmaNa laIne paoNrTa oNpha spenamAM AvelI bhAratIya hAIkamizanaranI oNphisamAM gayAM. tyAM pharsTa sekreTarI zrI kheragAmavAlAne maLyAM. teo muMbaInI senTa jheviyarsa kolejamAM bhaNyA hatA ke jyAM adhyApaka tarIke meM keTalAMka varSa kAma karyuM hatuM. eTale mane jotAM ja teo oLakhI gayA. temaNe amArI bAbatamAM aMgata rasa laI venejhuelAnI oNphise phona karyo. badhI paristhiti samajAvI ane potAnI aMgata bhalAmaNa paNa karI. venejhuelAnA oNphisare. chevaTe hA pADI ane amane bolAvyAM, amane AnaMda thayo. ame TeksI karIne pAchAM tyAM pahoMcyAM. ame vIsA mATenAM phaoNrma bharyA ane amArA pAsaporTa ApyA. vIsA Ave tenI rAha joIne ame ThIka ThIka vAra beThAM. chevaTe eka oNphisara yuvatI amArA pAsaporTa laI AvI ane kahyuM, "mApha karajo, ame tamane vIsA ApI zakatA nathI. ame TelekSa upara amArI sarakArane puchAvI joyuM, paraMtu amArI sarakAra bhAratIya nAgariko mATe ghaNI kaDaka che. eTale tamane TrAnjhiTa vIsA maLaze nahi." A javAba sAMbhaLI amArI mUMjhavaNa vadhI. amArAthI sAMja sudhIno samaya A kAma mATe eka sthaLethI bIje sthaLe dhakkA khAvAmAM pUro thaI gayo. sAMjanA pAMca vAgavA AvyA hatA. bhAratIya hAIkamizanaranI oNphisa have baMdha thaI gaI hatI. amane thayuM ke A bAbatamAM pAna-amerikananI ophisanuM

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11mI julAI 1979 papa mArgadarzana meLavavuM joIe, kAraNa ke amArI TikiTa pAna-amerikana kaMpanInI hatI. paraMtu thayuM ke e oNphisa paNa kadAca baMdha thaI gaI hoya to ? topaNa prayatna karI jovA ame TeksI karIne tarata tyAM pahoMcyAM, paraMtu oNphisa baMdha thaI gaI hatI. oNphisanA kAcanA daravAjAmAMthI dekhAtuM hatuM ke eka karmacArI yuvatI potAnA kAunTara upara kaMIka kAma karI rahI hatI. ame tenI pAse pahoMcyAM. amane joIne te tarata bolI, "mApha karajo, oNphisa baMdha thaI gaI che. AvatI kAle savAre Avo." A e ja yuvatI hatI ke jenI sAthe savAre venejhuelAnA vIsAne kAraNe amArI TikiTa aMge bahu mAthAkUTa thaI hatI. meM tene kahyuM, "kSamA karajo, mane khabara che ke oNphisano samaya thaI gayo che. chatAM ame tamArI pAse pharIthI eTalA mATe AvyA chIe ke savAranA ATha vAgyAthI khAdhApIdhA vagara ame rakhaDIe chIe ane chatAM amAruM kAma patyuM nathI. amArI A muzkelImAM tamAruM mArgadarzana levA AvyAM chIe, kAraNa ke pAna-amerikana sivAya amAro prazna koI ukelI zake tema nathI. venejhuelAnA TrAnjhiTa vIsA koI saMjogomAM maLe tema nathI e have nizcita che." amArI vAta sAMbhaLI tene navAI lAgI. te bolI, "oha, tamane haju TrAnjhiTa visA maLyA nathI ?" nA, vimAna badalavA mATe paNa TrAnjhiTa vIsAno Agraha rAkhavAmAM Ave ane te vIsA amuka dezanA nAgarikone ja ApavAmAM Ave eTaluM badhuM kaDaka valaNa venejhuelA sivAya bIjA koI dezamAM joyuM nathI. paraspara laDAI cAlatI hoya tyAre be dezo vacce AvuM valaNa hoya e Azcaryajanaka che... game tema, paNa ame have kArAkAsanA eNrapaoNrTamAMthI pasAra thaI zakIe tema nathI. to amAre have zuM karavuM ?" yuvatIe amArI TikiTo tapAsIne kahyuM, "tamAre have nyUyaoNrka pAchA pharavuM joIe ane tyAMthI riyo-di-jAneronI sIdhI phalAiTa pakaDavI joIe." "A TikiTamAM ame tema karI zakIe ?" "nA, tamArI TikiTa ahIM sudhI vaparAI gaI che, eTale tamAre ahIMthI nyUyaoNrka ane tyAMthI riyo pahoMcavA mATe navI judI TikiTa levI paDaze." pachI hisAba gaNI eNe kahyuM, "enA tamAre sADAtraNaso DaoNlara judA ApavA paDaze." eTale ke amArA baMnenA sAtaso DaoNlara thAya." meM kahyuM, "paraMtu

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56 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe amArI sarakAre amane maryAdita videzI calaNa ApyuM che. emAMthI ATaluM badhuM ja kharcAI jAya to riyonI pena koMgresamAM javAnuM amAre mAMDI vALavuM paDe. amAre pAchAM muMbaI pahoMcI javuM paDe." ame ene amArA pAsaporTa ane bIjAM badhAM kAgaLiyAM batAvyAM. meM kahyuM, "kArAkAsamAM vimAna badalavA mATe paNa bhAratIya nAgarikone TrAnjhiTa vIsAnI jarUra paDe che, evuM tamArI muMbaInI oNphise jo amane pahelethI kahyuM hota to ame nyUyaoNrkathI sIdhAM riyo-di-jAnero cAlyAM gayAM hota ane A muzkelImAM mukAyAM na hota. amAre vadhArAnA paisA na ApavA paDe evI rIte tamArI sattA vAparIne tame koI rasto na kADhI zako ? amAre nizcita tArIkhe riyo pahoMcavAnuM che." thoDI vAra vicAra karI yuvatI aMdara gaI ane bIjI eka uparI yuvatIne bolAvI lAvI. AkhI paristhiti tene samajAvI. te nakazo ane samayapatrako laI AvI ane nyUyorka pAcho na pharavuM paDe te rIte riyo kevI rIte pahoMcI zakAya tenI tapAsa karavA lAgI. TrinidAdathI sarinAma thaIne athavA nyU gInI thaIne pahoMcavA mATenA vikalpo vicAryA. paraMtu te sekTaramAM aThavADiye ekAda phalAiTa hatI. vaLI tyAMthI AgaLanI, riyo sudhInI phalAiTa paNa tarata maLe tema nahotI. chevaTe eka lAMbo vikalpa hAtha lAgyo. TrinidAdanI pAse keribiyina samudramAM kurAsAo nAmano nAnakaDo TApu che. tyAM amAre javuM. tyAMthI panAmA ane panAmAthI riyo sIdhA pahoMcI zakAya. eka rAta kurAsAo ane eka rAta panAmAmAM rahevuM paDe. A rIte phalAITa ApavAmAM amuka hajAra mAIlanuM aMtara vadhI jatuM hatuM paraMtu muMbaIthI pAna-amerikana oNphise TikiTa ApatI vakhate dhyAna ApyuM nathI e kAraNa TikiTamAM darzAvIne vadhArAnA paisA teo leze nahi ema e yuvatIe kahyuM. judI judI eNrakaMpanImAM amArA mATe phona karyA pachI eNe kahyuM, kurAsAothI panAmA ane tyAMthI riyo-di-jAnero javAmAM muzkelI nahi paDe. kAraNa ke jambo 747nI ghaNI phalAITa dararoja tyAMthI maLe che. have savAla mAtra AvatI kAlano che. AvatI kAle savAre ahIMthI kurAsAo javA mATe mAtra eka ja phalAiTa che ane te AkhI bharelI che. uparAMta 38 nAma veiTiMga lisTa upara che. tamArA nAma veiTiMga lisTa upara 39 ane 40mAM rahe. A rIte tamAre javuM che ke kema te kaho, kAraNa ke kurAsAo mATe bIjI phalAITa cAra divasa bAda maLe ema che. A vikalpa tamane maMjUra na hoya to kAle nyUyaoNrka tamArA paise pAchA jAo ane tyAMthI parama divase

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57 11mI julAI 1979 riyo jAo. A pramANe be vikalpo che. vicAra karIne kaho." vicAra karatAM amane lAgyuM ke nyUyorka sudhInA sAtaso DaoNlara kharcavA karatAM bIje divase eraporTa sudhI javAnA TeksInA pacIsa DaoNlara kharcavA sArA. AvatI kAlanI phalAiTamAM cAnsa nahi jevo che. kadAca phalAiTa na maLe to zaheramAM pAchAM AvavuM paDe ane hoTelamAM rahevAnuM kharca thAya. paraMtu prayatna karavo e ja amAre mATe ISTa che. ame te pramANe sUcanA ApI. amArI TikiTomAM pheraphAro thayA. AvA pheraphAro karavAmAM vAra ghaNI lAgI ane ophisano samaya to kyArano thaI gayo hato. chatAM baMne yuvatIoe jarA paNa kacavATa vagara hasate mukhe amAruM kAma karI ApyuM. amArA mATe lagabhaga doDha kalAka teo oNphisamAM vadhAre rokAI navI TikiTo taiyAra karI amArA hAthamAM ApatAM kahyuM, "tamArI muzkelI jANIne ame AuTa oNpha dha ve jaIne A kAma amArI javAbadArI upara karyuM che. tamane AvatI kAlanI phalAiTa maLe to amArI mahenata lekhe lAgaze. ame bhagavAnane prArthanA karIzuM ke AvatI kAlanI phalAITa tamane maLe. jo kadAca tamane phalAiTa na maLe to tame bedhaDaka ahIM pAchA Avajo. ame TikiTa pharI pAchI badalI ApIzuM." ame temano khUba khUba AbhAra mAnyo. temanI vidAya lIdhI. bIje divase savAre ame vahelA UThI eraporTa upara samayasara pahoMcI gayAM, paraMtu amArI AgaLa ADatrIsa nAmo veiTiMga lisTa upara hatAM. amane kahevAmAM AvyuM, "phalAiTa UpaDavAne chellI vIsa miniTa raheze tyAre ame veiTiMga lisTanAM nAmo bolIzuM." ame to eNralAinsanA kAunTara sAme eka khUNAmAM zAMtithI sAmAna sAthe beThAM. manamAM prArthanA paNa karatAM rahyAM. chevaTe veiTiMga lisTanAM nAmo bolavA zarU thayAM. jema nAma bolAtAM jAya tema ame utsukatAthI cAre bAju najara karatAM, paNa AgaLanAM ADatrIsa nAmamAMthI eka paNa pravAsI hAjara na hato. ame rAjI thayAM. amArAM nAmo AvyAM eTale amane tarata TikiTa ApI. amAro sAmAna levAyo. ame vimAnamAM beThAM. paraMtu amane navAI lAgI, kAraNa ke vimAna aDadhuM khAlI hatuM. je pravAsIo beThA hatA te paNa badhA gaMbhIra ane gamagIna jaNAtA hatA. jANe nachUTake teo pravAsa karatA hoya ! badhAMne alpAhAra apAto hato, paNa te khAvA mATe rasotsAhano abhAva varatAto hato.

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pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe Ama kema thayuM ? be divasanI dhamAlamAM ame vAra-tArIkha bhUlI gayAM hatAM. cAra divasathI chApuM paNa vAMcyuM na hatuM. ame eNrahosTesane ochA pravAsIonuM kAraNa pUchyuM. eNe kahyuM, "kAraNa ke Aje 11mI julAI che. Aje skAyalaeNba paDavAno divasa che. barAbara e paDavAnA samaye ja ApaNuM vimAna keribiyana samudra upa2 kurAsAo tarapha UDI rahyuM haze. keribiyana samudramAM skAyalaeNba tUTI paDavAnI moTI aphavA che, eTale bIkanA mAryA ghaNAM musApharo AjanI phalAiTomAM beThAM nathI.'' 58 vimAnamAM jagyA maLI enA amArA AnaMdane skAyalaeNba paDavAnI ciMtAe ocho na karI nAkhyo. AsapAsanA pravAsIonA ciMtAtura caherAne kAraNe vAtAvaraNa, alabatta, gamagIna hatuM, paNa ame have svastha hatAM, kAraNa ke eka AkhA divasanA tanAvamAMthI ame chuTakAro anubhavyo hato. amAruM vimAna kurAsAo tarapha UDI rahyuM hatuM. keTalIka vAra pachI kaeNpTane jAherAta karI, sajjano ane sannArIo ! ApaNe mATe khuzakhabara ! skAyalaeNba oNsTreliyA pAse samudramAM tUTI paDyuM che evA samAcAra hamaNAM ja reDiyo parathI maLyA. ApaNe badhAM have salAmata chIe." o samAcAra sAMbhaLatAM ja badhAMe jo2jorathI tALIo pADI. gamagInI harSamAM palaTAI gaI. mAMhomAMhe utsAhathI rasabharI vAto thavA lAgI. alpAhArane vizeSa nyAya apAvA lAgyo. ame kurAsAo samayasara pahoMcI gayAM. amArA sAtaso DaoNlara bacI gayA. e mATe skAyalebanAM ame AbhArI hatAM.

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| uccAraNanI khAsiyata TokyomAM huM mArA jApAnI mitra sAkAyorI sAthe kAbukI nATaka jovA jaI rahyo hato. nATakanuM sthaLa thoDe dUra hatuM. TeksImAM ame baMne jatA hatA. jApAnamAM dukAno ke rastAonAM nAma jApAnI bhASAmAM ja moTA akSare lakhAyelAM che. aMgrejI to koIka sthaLe jovA maLe. lokomAM paNa bhAgye ja koI aMgrejI jANanAra maLe. alabatta aMgrejI zIkhanArA lokonI saMkhyA have divase divase jApAnamAM vadhatI jAya che. rastAmAM eka bajAramAMthI ame pasAra thaI rahyA hatA. mArA mitrane meM pUchyuM, "A kayo rasto che ?" eNe enuM nAma kahyuM. e pramANe uccAra karavAno meM prayatna karyo, paNa huM phAvyo nahi. mArA mitre kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, yU kenaoNTa spIka dheTa neima, bikojha iTa ijha e rAMga neima." huM vicAramAM paDyo. mAro mitra zuM kahevA mAgato hato ? zuM huM e nAma khoTI rIte boluM chuM ? ke e nAma bolI zakAya ema nathI ? ke e rastAnuM nAma khoTI rIte paDI gayuM haze - jema keTalAka rastAonAM nAma khoTI rIte paDI jAya che tema ? mArA manamAM AvA prazno cAlatA hatA. paraMtu mArA mitra pAsethI meM pharI khulAso mAgyo nahi. saMkoca thayo. thoDeka AgaLa TaeNkramI gaI tyAM meM pharI pUchyuM, "A rastAnuM nAma zuM ?" e kazuMka bolyo. pachI eNe kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, iTa ijha e roMga neima. yU kenaoNTa spIka iTa." mane navAI lAgI. huM tenuM kAraNa samajI na zakyo. huM mUMgo rahyo. AgaLa jatAM bIjo eka rasto Avyo. meM enuM nAma pUchyuM. eNe jApAnI bhASAmAM kaMIka kahyuM. e pramANe meM uccAra karavA prayatna karyo, to pharIthI eNe hasatAM hasatAM kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, iTa ijha olso e roMga neima. yu kenaoNTa spIka iTa." have mArI dhIrajano aMta Avyo. meM pUchyuM, "vAya iTa ijha roMga ?" mArA praznathI ene navAI lAgI. eNe hasatAM hasatAM kahyuM, "iTa ijha rAMga, bikajha iTa ijha raoNga. phora dheTa dhera ijha no Ansa,

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60 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe enI vAta mArA gaLe UtarI nahi. ame thiyeTaramAM pahoMcyAM. nATaka jovA besIe te pahelAM mArA mitre mane pUchyuM, "DaoN. zAha, vila yu heva korA ?" huM samajyo nahi. eTale mArAthI ene tarata puchAI gayuM, "vica korA ?" eNe resTorAMmAM kAunTara upara paDelI bATalIo tarapha AMgaLI cIMdhIne kahyuM, "dhisa kokA korA." tarata ja mArA manamAM jhabakAro thayo. eNe "kolA'ne badale "korA" kahyuM. tarata mane yAda AvyuM ke jApAnamAM loko kolA'ne badale "korA bole che. "la"no uccAra jApAnIo "ra kare che. eTale mAro mitra atyAra sudhI mane je "rIMga neima' kaheto hato teno artha loMga neIma " thAya. eno kahevAno Azaya e hato ke e jApAnI nAma eTaluM lAMbu hatuM ke saraLatAthI huM tarata te uccArI nahi zakuM. - dareka prajAnI bhASAnA uccAraNanI jema keTalIka viziSTatA hoya che tema tenI keTalIka maryAdA paNa hoya che. jApAnamAM loko 'lano uccAra "ra" kare che. tema kyAreka "ra"no uccAra "la" jevo kare che. "rIgala' jevo zabda koI jApAnInA mukhethI tame sAMbhaLo to tamane 'lIgara sAMbhaLavA maLaze. alabatta, je jApAnIo yuropa ke amerikAmAM rahI aMgrejI pramANe uccAro kare che teo have "la'no uccAra 'la' ja kare che. paNa tevA to koIka ja ane te paNa jyAre potAnA uccAraNanI bAbatamAM sabhAna hoya tyAre. "la"nuM uccAraNa jApAnI loko nathI karI zakatA eTale to "hoTela mATe "hoTe' ane "milka' mATe "miruku' jevA zabdo jApAnI bhASAmAM rUDha thaI gayA che. "lanI jema "thanuM uccAraNa paNa jApAnI loko karI zakatA nathI. "zrI'ne badale "zrI" ane "oNthelo'ne badale "ozelo' teo bolatA hoya che. bIjI bAju, "pha'nA bhinna bhinna uccAraNo jApAnI loko je kare che te ApaNe karI zakatA nathI. ApaNe tyAM uttara bhAratanA keTalAka loko vivRtta "o'nuM uccAraNa karI zakatA nathI. amerikAnA loko "ra'no jevo uccAra kare che tevo ApaNe karI zakatA nathI. ApaNAM keTalAMka uccAraNo yuropanA loko karI zakatA nathI. bhASA, zabdabhaMDoLa ane uccAraNanI bAbatamAM dareka prajAnI potAnI keTalIka prAdezika khAsiyato hoya che.

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vAsnAyA poliyAnA soviyeTa yuniyanamAM mosko ke leninagrADa sivAyanAM zaheromAM ane khAsa karIne gAmaDAMomAM pravAsa karavo e khuda tyAMnA vatanIo mATe jo agharuM che, to videzIo mATe agharuM kema na hoya ? koI ekaladokala videzI pravAsIne samagra soviyeTa yuniyanamAM svecchAe pharavAnuM atizaya muzkela che. enuM kAraNa tyAMnA kAyadAo, kaDaka baMdobasta, zaMkAzIla sarakArI mAnasa ane vAhanonI suvidhAnI alpatA che. duniyAnA lagabhaga tamAma dezomAM teno vIsA maLyA pachI koI paNa rokaToka vinA videzI pravAsI svecchAe game tyAre game tyAM AkhA dezamAM pharI zake che. paraMtu soviyeTa yuniyanamAM ema nathI. tyAM dareka zaherano judo vIsA meLavavo paDe che. jeTalAM sthaLono vIsA hoya teTalA sthaLe ja pravAsI jaI zake che. vIsA tamAre zA mATe joIe che tenAM pUratAM kAraNo darzAvIne tame arajI karo te pachI sattAvALAone jo te saMtoSakAraka lAge to ja tamane vIsA maLe. oNlimpika ramatagamato jovA AvelA videzI pravAsIo mATe soviyeTa sarakAre jovA jevAM keTalAMka aitihAsika sthaLonA pravAsanI yojanA jAhera karelI. moskomAM pahoMcIne meM ane mArA bhAI pramodabhAIe ramatagamatanuM jovAnuM jatuM karIne paNa sujhadala-glADimira ane tolsatoyanA vatana yAsnAyA poliyAnA mATe soviyeTa yuniyananI eka mAtra adhikRta TUrisTa kaMpanI indrarisTanI kacerImAM nAma noMdhAvI dIdho ane tenA kharcanA raziyana rUbala bharI dIdhA. paraMtu moskomAM AvelA ramatagamatanA zekhIna videzIone pravAsanAM itara sthaLomAM rasa kyAMthI paDe ? pravAsa mATe tapAsa karanArAomAM ame ja prathama hatA evuM e vibhAganA adhikArInI vAta parathI jaNAyuM. ame sujhadala ane plADimira javAnA divase savAre sAta vAge taiyAra thaIne, mosko yunivarsiTInA makAnamAM amane ApelA utAre laoNnjamAM jaIne beThA. paraMtu nava vAge amane kahevAmAM AvyuM ke pravAsIonI pUratI saMkhyA thaI nathI mATe basa UpaDaze nahi. nirAza thaI ame agAunA kAryakrama pramANe ramatagamato jovAmAM divasa vitAvyo.

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe bIje divase savAre amAre taoNlsatoyanI janmabhUmi yAsnAyA poliyAnA javAnuM hatuM. pharIthI pravAsIonI saMkhyAnuM bahAnuM kADhI TUra rada karavAmAM na Ave to sAruM ema amArA manamAM hatuM. TUra mATe ochAmAM ochA cAra pravAsIo joIe ema amane kahevAmAM AvyuM hatuM. ame phakta be jaNe ja nAma noMdhAvyAM hatAM. eTale ame tarata bIjA be bhAratIya pravAsIone yAsnAyA poliyAnA AvavA samajAvyA. teo saMmata thayA ane temaNe paNa rUbala bharI dIdhA. - savAre sAta vAge vahelAM vahelAM cApANI laIne taiyAra thaIne ame laoNnjamAM besI gayA, paraMtu tapAsa karatAM amane kahevAmAM AvyuM ke vAsnAyA poliyAnAnI TUra rada karavAmAM AvI che. TUrisTa kAunTara para beThelI yuvatI pAse ame gayA ane pUchyuM, "Tura kema rada karavAmAM AvI che ?" pUratA pravAsI nathI eTale." gaI kAle tame kahyuM hatuM ke TUra mATe ochAmAM ochA cAra pravAsI joIe. Aje ame cAra pravAsI to thaI gayA ja chIe." hA, te sAcuM, paNa cAramAMthI phakta tamArA benA yAsnAyA poliyAnA mATenA vIsA AvI gayA che. paraMtu bIjA benA vIsA AvyA nathI, kAraNa ke teo baMnenI arajI moDI paDI che." meM kahyuM, "gaI kAle tame amane nirAza karyA ane Aje paNa nirAza karo cho. mane mahAtmA taoNlsatoyanI janmabhUmi jovAnI khUba utkaMThA che. mAre mATe te tIrthayAtrA samAna che. huM muMbaI yunivarsiTImAM prophesara chuM ane lekhaka chuM. taoNlsataoNyanuM sAhitya meM vAMcyuM che. tamArA uparIne samajAvIne tame amArI TUra rada na thAya evuM kaMI na karI zako ?" thoDI AnAkAnI pachI vaDI kacerIe phona joDAyo. raziyana bhASAmAM zI vAta thAya che tenI zI khabara paDe ? paraMtu ghaNI lAMbI vAta cAlI. chevaTe yuvatIe amane vadhAmaNI ApI : "tamArI TUra have rada thatI nathI. yAnAyA poliyAnA tamane bene mokalavA mATe ame basanI vyavasthA karIe chIe. tame beso thoDI vAra." ame thoDI vAra rAha joIne beThA hoIzuM tyAM gherA lAla raMganuM zarTa ane badAmI raMganuM skarTa paherelI, "IrisTa'nA billAvALI eka cabarAka yuvatI AvI pahoMcI. te amArI tapAsa karatI hatI. ame tarata ene maLyA. enuM nAma annA hatuM. meM kahyuM, "taoNlsataoNyanI janmabhUmi jovA

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yAsnAyA poliyAnA 63 jaIe chIe ane tamAruM nAma annA che, e paNa eka zubha saMketa che. taoNlsatoyanI "annA kereninA nAmanI navalakathA che. keTalAka ANNAno uccAra "AnA kare che, to keTalAka "AnnA" ke "annA' ke "enA kare che. tame zo karo cho ?" . "annA; kema pUchavuM paDyuM ?" "amArA bhAratamAM keTalAka raziyana zabdonA uccAra iMgliza bhASA pramANe ame karIe chIe; eTale mULa raziyana uccAra jANavA huM utsuka annAne AnaMda thayo. te iMgliza ane raziyana baMne bhASA sarasa bolatI hatI ane baMnenA lekhana-uccAraNanA bheda paNa jANatI hatI. annAe kahyuM, "ApaNe pAMca miniTamAM ja bahAra jaIe chIe. ApaNA mATe basa bahAra AvI gaI che." "phakta be pravAsIo mATe tamAre AkhI basa doDAvavI paDe che te mATe ame dilagIra chIe." meM aupacArika viveka karyo. "teno kazo vAMdho nahi. amArI oNphisa tevo vicAra nathI karatI. balka, hajAro videzI pravAsIomAMthI tolsatoyanA vatanamAM rasa levAvALA tame be pravAsIo nIkaLyA, te amAre mATe AnaMdanI vAta che." ame yunivarsiTInA kampAunDanA daravAjAnI bahAra nIkaLyA, paNa tyAM amArI basa nahotI. tapAsa karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke amArA mATe AvelI basa pAchI cAlI gaI che. annAne navAI lAgI. zuM thayuM te samaja na paDI. amane UbhA rAkhI annA pAchI ophisamAM tapAsa karavA doDI. thoDI vAre pAchI AvI ane amane kahyuM, "ApaNe kula traNa ja jaNa javAnA chIe; mATe have basa levAnI jarUra nathI. ApaNe mATe kAra mokalavAmAM Ave che." thoDI vAramAM vaoNlgA brAnDanI moTI kALI eNrakanDizanDa limojhina gADI AvI pahoMcI. ame temAM beThAM. jANI vI.AI.pI nI jema amAro pravAsa goThavAyo hoya tevuM lAgyuM. mosko zahera choDI amArI gADI dhorI rastA upara cAlavA lAgI. raziyana dhorI rastA bahu sArA nathI, kAraNa ke teno vaparAza ghaNo ocho che. bhAratanA keTalAka rastAo raziyAnA rastA karatAM ghaNA caDhiyAtA lAge. rastAmAM moTarakAra bhAgye ja jovA maLe. koI vakhata Trako pharatI dekhAya. paraMtu temAM paNa amerikAmAM jovA maLe tevI moTI, svaccha ane navA jevI

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64 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe cakacakita nahi. jUnI, kadarUpI ane kyAreka gaMdI paNa lAge. amerikAmAM jUnI vastuo jaladI kADhI nakhAya che. upayogamAM laI zakAya tyAM sudhI jUnI vastuo pheMkI devAnI paddhati soviyeTa yuniyanamAM nathI. - raziyAnA dhorI mArgo TrAphikathI dhamadhamatA nathI. zAMta ane manohara lAge che. rastAnI baMne bAjue UMcAM UMcAM lIlAMchama vRkSo UgelAM che. e vRkSomAM sIdhAM, zvetavarNI thaDavALAM ane asAdhAraNa UMcAM barca vRkSonuM pramANa ghaNuM che. raste nAnA gAmaDAMo Ave. rastAmAM mAthe TopalA ke poTalAM mUkI page cAlanAra vaTemArguo paNa jovA maLe che, kAraNa ke raziyAmAM gAmaDAMo vacce basa-vyavahAra ghaNo ocho che. yAsnAyA poliyAnA sudhInuM aMtara lagabhaga baso kilomITara jeTaluM che. paraMtu amArI gADI vacce vacce UbhI rahetI, kAraNa ke amAro DrAivara A raste pahelI vAra Avato hato. jyAM be rastA paDe tyAM ene pUchavuM paDatuM. vaLI cekiMga Ave tyAM prAivara ane gAiDanAM oLakhapatro tapAsatAM, gADI laI javAnI paravAnagI tapAsAtI ane amArA pAsapaoNrTa tathA vIsA tapAsatA. e tapAsavAmAM jarA paNa raghavATa dekhAto nahi. TrAkki aTakI javAnI koI bIka nahotI, kAraNa ke TrAphika ja nahoto. vastutaH kaMI bhUlacUka na thaI jAya tenI pharaja paranA mANasone bIka vadhu rahetI. rastAmAM cekhova ane tulA nAmanAM nagaro vaTAvI ame yAsnAyA poliyAnA pahoMcyAM. A nAnakaDA, zAMta, ramaNIya gAmane pAdare amArI gADI pahoMcI ke tarata ja amArA vIsA tapAsAyA. have annAnI pharaja ahIM pUrI thaI. gAmanA pAdarethI luDamilA nAmanI sthAnika yuvatI amArI gAiDa tarIke amane dorI gaI. luDamilA sthAnika skUlamAM zikSikA che. iMgliza ane bIjA viSayo bhaNAve che. te aMgrejI sarasa bole che. taoNlsatoyanA pitA raziyAnA jhAra rAjAnA samayamAM moTA umarAva hatA. temaNe vasAvelI jAgIra te A yAsnAyA poliyAnA. tolsatoyane te vArasAmAM maLelI. ahIM taoNlsatoyano janma thayelo ane mRtyu pachI emanA dehane ahIM ja daphanAvavAmAM Avyo hato. potAnA vyAsI varSanA AyuSyamAMthI tolsatoye vIsa varSa moskomAM ane bAkInAM varSa yAsnAyA poliyAnAmAM vitAvyAM hatAM. taoNlsatoya garbhazrImaMta hatA. paraMtu moskomAM vasatigaNatarInuM kAma karatI vakhate garIba lokonA, kaMpArI chUTe evA vistAronI lIdhelI mulAkAtathI temanI jIvana pratyenI dRSTi badalAI hatI. temanAmAM mAnavatA pragaTI hatI. teo sAduM ane nirADaMbarI jIvana jIvavA IcchatA hatA. paraMtu

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pa vAsnAyA poliyAnA e bAbatamAM temanI patnI sophiyAno sahakAra na hato. sophiyAne umarAvanuM mojazokhabharyuM jIvana bahu gamatuM. pariNAme pati-patnI vacce vAraMvAra saMgharSa thato. jyAre zrImaMta gharamAM potAnI zokhIne patnI sAthe rahevAnuM asahya thaI paDyuM tyAre eka divasa tolsatoya rAtane vakhate cUpacApa ghara choDIne cAlyA gayA. temane nyumoniyA thayo hato. pAsenA eka relave-sTezana para temanuM avasAna thayuM. temanA dehane yAsnAyA poliyAnA lAvavAmAM Avyo ane temanI bhAvanA anusAra sAdAIthI daphanAvavAmAM Avyo. luDamilA amane taoNlsatoyanA makAnamAM laI gaI. A makAna have taoNlsatoyanI smRtimAM saMgrahasthAna tarIke vaparAya che. makAnamAM dAkhala thatAM pahelAM amane bUTanI nIce paheravA mATe dorIvALA rabbaranA slipara ApavAmAM AvyAM, jethI makAnanI pharasa kharAba na thAya. sauprathama uparanA mALe gayAM. upara dAkhala thatAM ja dIvAla upara lolakavALuM moTuM ghaDiyALa dekhAyuM. taoNlsatoyanA vakhatanuM A ghaDiyALa Aje paNa niyamita samaya batAve che. eka vizALa khaMDamAM taoNlsatoyanuM pustakAlaya che. duniyAnI paMcAvana jeTalI bhASAnAM emAM pustako che. taoNlsatoyano vAMcanazokha keTalo vizALa hato te A pustako parathI pratIta thAya che. taoNlsatoyanA abhyAsakhaMDamAM lakhavA mATenuM temanuM Tebala khAsa mApa pramANe banAveluM hatuM. Tebala ApaNane nIcuM lAge, paraMtu taoNlsatoyanI UMcAI, lakhavAnI emanI Dhaba ane cazamAM vagara vAMcavAnI paDI gayelI Tevane lakSamAM rAkhIne te khAsa banAvyuM hatuM. eka khaMDamAM tolsatoyano zukanavaMto manAto sophA hato. DAiniMga Tebala, khurazIo, kapaDAM sIvavAno saMco tathA TAiparAiTara ane bIjI cIjavastuo, kuTuMbanA sabhyonA judA judA phoTA ane tailacitro vagere sAcavIne judA judA khaMDamAM rAkhavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. eka jAjavalyamAna yuvatIno phoTo batAvIne gAIDe kahyuM, "A taoNsyataoNyanI sALIno phoTo che. "vora eNnDa pIsa" navalakathAmAM natAzAnuM pAtra taoNlsatoye emanI A sALI uparathI doryuM che." chelle amane eka oraDAmAM laI javAmAM AvyAM. makAnane cheDe Avelo A te oraDo ke jyAMthI tolsatoya moDI rAte potAnI putrI elekajhAnDiyA ane eka DaoNkTara mitranI sAthe vyAsI varSanI umare asvastha tabiyata chatAM cUpacApa ghara choDIne cAlI nIkaLyA hatA. taoNlsatoyanI patnI sophiyAne e vAtanI khabara na hatI. sophiyA tyAre potAnA khaMDamAM jAgatI hatI. dIvAnA ajavALe tolsatoyanA lakhANanI te nakala karatI hatI. taoNlsatoyanA kuTuMbanAM sabhya zrImaMtAI choDI sAdAInuM jIvana jIvavA pA-5

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66 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe icchatAM na hatAM, paMratu taoNlsataoNye pote to kheDUta ane zramajIvInuM sAdagIbharyuM jIvana jIvavAnuM cAlu karI dIdhuM hatuM. potAnuM badhuM kAma nokaracAkara pAse na karAvatAM pote hAthe karatA. e karavA mATe pote je sAdhano ane ojAro vAparatAM te tathA temanAM sAdAM vastro A chellA khaMDamAM rAkhavAmAM AvyAM che. gharanI bahAra eka vRkSanuM ThUMThuM amane batAvavAmAM AvyuM. gAiDe kahyuM, "ahIM keTalAka nirdhana kheDUto madada mATe taoNlsataoNya pAse AvatA. teo jyAre Ave tyAre A jhADa upa2 laTakAvelo ghaMTa vagADatA eTale taoNlsatoya bahAra AvI pUchaparacha karI temane paisA vagerenI madada karatA. jhAranA samayamAM cIMtharehAla dazAmAM jIvatA kheDUtone joI taoNlsataoNyanI AMkhomAMthI ghaNI vAra AMsu saratAM. gharathI ekAda pharlIMga cheTe, taoNlsatoyanI jAgIranI jamInamAM ja eka sAva nAnakaDA jharaNAne kAMThe taoNlsaoNyanI kabaranAM ame darzana karyAM. e kabara pAkI caNelI nahotI. daphanAvyA pachI upara mATIno Dhagalo je rIte karAya te rIte kAMkariyALI mATInI banAvelI sAdI laMbacorasa e kabara hatI. enA upara tAjAM phUla caDhAvelAM hatAM. ame paNa pAsenI TopalImAMthI laI kabara upara thoDAMka phUla caDhAvyAM. pachI nIce besI mastaka namAvI kabarane praNAma karyA. taoNlsatoyanA jIvananA aMtima divasonI vedanAnI je vAto thoDI vAra pahelAM gAIDe vigate kahI tenuM dRzya najara sAme taravaratuM hatuM tethI kabarane praNAma karatAM ja mArI AMkhamAMthI thoDAM azrubiMdu sarI paDyAM. taoNlsatoyanI jAgIranI mulAkAta laI ame pAchAM pharyAM. luDamilAe amArI gAiDa annAne havAle amane karyAM. bhojanano samaya thaI gayo hato eTale annA amane mukarara karelA resTorAMmAM bhojana mATe laI gaI. annAe amAre mATe zuddha zAkAhArI vAnagIonI varadI pahelethI ApelI hatI. pAMu, bhAta, bAphelAM zAkabhAjI, kacuMbara, dUdha, kaoNphI vagere to hatAM ja, paNa amAre mATe khAsa je sUpa banAvavAmAM Avyo hato te A pradezanI viziSTa vAnagI hatI. 'AkrozaskA' nAmano A sUpa garama nahi paNa ThaMDo hato. temAM kAkaDI, TameTAM vagere sudhArIne nAkhelAM hatAM ane temAM jalajIrA ane madhanA zarabata jevuM, paNa thoDuMka khaTamIThuM pravAhI hatuM. bhojana laI ame gADImAM beThAM. Akhe raste raziyAnA lokajIvana vize annA sAthe keTalIka nikhAlasa vAto thaI. alabatta sTelina, kruzceva, pAstaranAka, soljhenitzina, sTelinagrADa vagere vize vAta karavAno annAe

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yAsnAyA poliyAnA 67 hasate mukhe spaSTa inkAra karI dIdho. soviyeTa yuniyana vizenA ApaNA keTalAka khyAlo khoTA ane bIjA dezonA pracArane lIdhe kevA bhramavALA hoya che te annA sAthe thayelI vividha praznonI carcA dvArA jANavA maLyuM. amAro DrAivara e koI basanA sAmAnya DrAivara jevo na hato. te UMcI pAyarIno mANasa hato. dilhImAM soviyeTa yuniyananI eNmbasImAM raziyana elacInA DrAivara tarIke teNe kAma karyuM hatuM. evI kAmagIrI bahu ja javAbadAra vyaktine soMpAya che. DrAivara potAnA elacI sAthe bhAratamAM ghaNe sthaLe pharelo hato. e thoDAka hiMdI zabdo jANato hato. amArI vAtomAM te rasa leto hato. annA amArI vAtonuM raziyanamAM bhASAMtara karIne tene kahetI ane te je kahe tenuM bhASAMtara karIne amane aMgrejImAM kahetI. eNe raziyA vize amAro abhiprAya pUchyo. ame keTalIka bAbatonI prazaMsA karI ane keTalIkanI TIkA paNa karI. pachI bhArata vize ame eno abhiprAya pUchyo. te kahe ke bhArata ghaNo ja suMdara deza che. loko bhalA ane maLatAvaDA che, paraMtu bhAratamAM ajANyA mANasone vepArIo chetarI le che te ene gamatuM nathI. potAno anubhava TAMkatAM eNe kahyuM ke potAnI moTarano eka nAno sperapArTa vAraMvAra bagaDI jato. e sperapArTa mATe dilhInI eka moTI ane jANItI dukAne te jato hato. e mATe te aDhIso rUpiyA cUkavato. dukAnadAra tene bahu AdarathI bolAvato ane cApANI pivaDAvato. paraMtu pAchaLathI khabara paDI ke ATha rUpiyAnI vastu mATe dukAnadAra aDhIso rUpiyA paDAvato hato. e ghaNI moTI chetarapiMDI karato hato tenI khabara paDatAM bhArata mATe tenuM mAna ochuM thayuM hatuM. bhAratanuM AvuM varavuM citra eka videzInA manamAM kAyamane mATe aMkita thayeluM joIne ame glAni anubhavI. pravAsa pUro thatAM azA ane DrAivarane ame raziyana bhASAmAM 'spAsibA' ('AbhAra') ane 'dAsvideniyA' ('Avajo') kahyuM. baMnee amArI vidAya lIdhI. te samaye ame emane baMnene pAMca pAMca rUbalanI bikSasa ApI, paNa teno asvIkAra karatAM teo baMnee kahyuM, "ame amAruM kartavya bajAvyuM che. amAre tyAM bakSisanI prathA nathI; kSamA karajo. amArI kAmagIrIthI tamane saMtoSa thayo che ema tamArI vAtacIta parathI spaSTa dekhAya che. tema chatAM pAchaLathI paNa tamane amArI kaMI bhUlacUka ke truTi jaNAya to te mATe ame agAuthI kSamA mAgI laIe chIe."

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18 nAirobImAM guMDAgIrI karAMcI, eDana ane aDisa-abAbA thaIne amAruM vimAna nAirobI pahoMcyuM. nAirobI eNrapaoNrTamAMthI ame bahAra nIkaLyAM. mombAsA ane nAirobInA jaina saMghanA kAryakartAo amane levA AvyA hatA. temAM nAirobInA zrI pAnAcaMda deDhiyA ane temanAM patnI uSAbahena paNa hatAM. gADImAM besatAM uSAbahene mArAM patnIne kahyuM, "tArAbahena, ApaNe ghare jaIe pachI tame gaLAmAMthI cena kADhI nAkhajo. hAthe baMgaDI paNa sAdI ane sastI paherajo." A sAMbhaLI amane navAI lAgI. tarata khulAso karatAM pAnAcaMdabhAIe kahyuM, "ahIM nAirobImAM bIjI badhI vAtanuM sukha che, paNa eka A guMDAgIrIno trAsa bahu che. mombAsA, thIkA, nakuru e badhAM zaheromAM paNa trAsa che, paNa ATalo badho nathI. nAirobInI polIsa bahu nabaLI che. gunegArone bhAgye ja pakaDI zake che athavA jANIjoIne pakaDatI nathI. eTale polIsamAM phariyAda karavA chatAM eno bahu artha raheto nathI.' uSAbahene kahyuM, "ahIM ghareNAMnI bAbatamAM amAre bahu sAcavavuM paDe che. ahI ApaNAM gujarAtI bairAM game teTalAM zrImaMta ane sukhI haze, paNa gaLAmAM cena paherIne rastAmAM nahi nIkaLe. AphrikI guMDAo ekAMta rastAmAM page cAlatAM bairAMonI cena kheMcIne bhAgI jatA hoya che. eTalA mATe amuka vistAramAM cAlavAmAM bahu jokhama che. ghaNuMkharuM ApaNAM loko eka sthaLethI bIje sthaLe moTaramAM ja jatAM hoya che. ghareNAM paheryAM hoya ane moTaramAM jatAM hoIe to bArInA kAca caDhAvelA rAkhavA paDe. kAca khullo rahI gayo hoya to signala pAse dAgIno kheMcAI jAya. roja AvA banAvo na bane, paNa vAraMvAra bane eTale sAcavavuM paDe che. sadbhAgye amane potAne evo anubhava haju sudhI nathI; paraMtu ethI gaphalatamAM rahevAya nahi." eNrapaoNrTathI ame pAnAcaMdabhAIne ghera gayAM. pArkalaeNnDa vistA2mAM emano baMgalo che. suMdara hilasTezana jevuM zAMta ane raLiyAmaNuM vAtAvaraNa A vistAranuM che. bhojana pachI pAnAcaMdabhAI amane amArA utAre moTaramAM mUkI

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nAirobImAM guMDAgIrI gayA. amAro utAro pArkalenDa vistAramAM chokarAo mATenI ozavALa haoNsTelanA gesTahAusamAM hato. bIje divase savAre cApANI mATe pAnAcaMdabhAInA ghera amAre javAnuM hatuM. emanuM ghara haoNsTelanI taddana pAse, be miniTanA raste hatuM. keniyAmAMthI aMgrejoe vidAya lIdhA pachI gujarAtIono vepAradhaMdho vadhu khIlyo. keTalAMka gujarAtI kuTuMbo paiseTake bahu sukhI thayAM che. AlIzAna baMgalAomAM teo rahevA lAgyAM che. Adhunika pharnicarathI temanAM gharo susajja . hoya che. sArAmAM sArI ImporTeDa gADI teo vApare che. tyAM rahenAra loko corI ane lUMTanI tyAMnI paristhitithI TevAI gayA che ane te pramANe sAcave paNa che. AphrikI nokara-cAkaro bahu mahenatu, bhalA svabhAvanA ane vaphAdAra hoya che. paraMtu AsapAsanAM parAMomAMthI ke gAmaDAmAMthI AvIne keTalAka AphrikI guMDAo vakhatovakhata corI karI jatA hoya che. teo jaladI pakaDAtA nathI. eTale evA banAvo vadhatA jAya che. koIkanA gharamAMthI ke dukAnamAMthI moTI corI thavI, rastAmAM pArka karelI gADImAMthI cIjavastuo corAI javI ke AkhI gADI UpaDI javI evA evA banAvonI ghaNI vAto amane sAMbhaLavA maLI. - rAtanA hosTelanA gesTahAusa para amane utArIne pAnAcaMdabhAIe kahyuM, "huM tamane barAbara savAranA sAta vAge teDavA AvIza, taiyAra rahejo. mAre ghare cApANI karIne tarata ApaNe thIkA javA mATe nIkaLIzuM." ame kahyuM, "savAre tame rokAyelA hazo. amane teDavA mATe takalIpha levAnI jarUra nathI. phakta be miniTano rasto che. ame amArI meLe cAlatAM sIdhAM tamAre tyAM AvI pahoMcIzuM." nA. ema karazo nahi. cAlatAM be miniTathI vadhAre samaya lAge ema nathI e huM jANuM chuM, paNa savAranA ahIM rastA upara vasati hotI nathI. eTale cAlavAmAM jokhama che, mATe e mATe tame cokkasa mArI rAha jojo ." - savAre sAta vAge ame taiyAra thaI pAnAcaMdabhAInA AvavAnI rAha jotAM hatAM. sAtane badale ATha vAgyA paNa pAnAcaMdabhAIne kaMIka kAraNasara moDuM thaI gayuM haze. uSAbahena savAranI taiyArImAM rokAyelAM haze, nahi to e emanI potAnI nAnI gADI laIne AvI pahoMce evAM che. haoNsTelano phona bagaDelo che eTale phona paNa kevI rIte kare ? eTale gADInI rAha joIne ApaNe besI rahevuM te yogya na gaNAya. ATaluM cAlavAmAM jokhama zuM che ?

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pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe Ama vicArIne ame cAlavA mAMDyuM. rastAmAM amArA sivAya koI cAlavAvALuM nahotuM. ame AsapAsa najara rAkhI, sAvadha thaIne cAlatAM hatAM. ghaDIkamAM ame pAnAcaMdabhAIne ghera pahoMcI paNa gayAM. 70 amane joIne pAnAcaMdabhAIe ciMtAtura avAje kahyuM, "are ! tame cAlatAM AvyAM ? tamane nA kahI hatI ne ? huM tamane teDavA Avato hato, paNa tyAM gADIno praoNblema thayo eTale mArA mitranI gADI tamAre mATe maMgAvI che. basa, enI ja rAha jouM chuM.' "amane hatuM ja ke gADIno kaMIka praoNblema haze, mATe ja tamane moDuM thayuM haze, AvI ThaMDImAM savAramAM koIka vakhata gADI sTArTa thatI nathI.' pAnAcaMdabhAI kahe : "paNa mAro praoNblema judo che." ane ema kahIne teo nIce amane laI gayA. kampAunDamAM bIjI bAju temanI gADI UbhelI hatI, paNa gADIne be paiDAM na hatAM. "tamArI gADInAM TAyara paMkcara thayAM che ? paNa ekasAthe be TAyara paMkcara thAya evuM bane nahi. rAte kyAMya rapha roDa upara gayA hatA ?' meM pUchyuM." "nAM, te vagara Ama thayuM che.". "paNa tamArI pAse jeka nathI ke paththara upara gADI UMcI karI che ?'' "te meM UMcI nathI karI.' "to ?' "rAtre cora AvyA hatA potAnI gADI laIne, ane mArI gADInAM be vhIla-TAyara kADhI gayA che. ane A juo..." ema kahI emaNe uSAbahenanI gADI batAvI. tenAM vhIla-TAyara nahotAM. pAnAcaMdabhAIe kahyuM, "coroe jeka upara gADI UMcI karI haze. paNa pachI paththara mUkIne jeka laI gayA che." "paNa rAtanA tamane kaMI avAja na Avyo ?'' "nA, erakanDizanDa beDarUmamAM bahArano avAja bahu saMbhaLAya nahi. huM nahoto kaheto ke ahIM nAirobImAM AvuM to ghaNI vAra banatuM hoya che ! ame loko enAthI have TevAI gayA chIe. mane gADInI ciMtA nathI. tame cAlatAM Avo enI ciMtA vadhAre hatI. pAse kImatI vastu tame na rAkho te sAcuM, paNa jhapAjhapImAM koIne IjA thaI jAya e mArI ciMtAno viSaya hato.''

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71 nAIrobImAM guMDAgIrI banelA banAvathI amArAM mana kaMIka asvastha thaI gayAM. paraMtu pAnAcaMdabhAI pUrA svastha hatA. temaNe kahyuM, "vImo pUro utarAvelo che, eTale kaMI ciMtA nathI. navAM vahIla-TAyara paNa phona karIne maMgAvI lIdhAM che." ame cApANI karyA; eTalI vAramAM navAM laTAyara AvI gayAM, ane mANasoe te caDhAvI paNa dIdhAM. gADImAM besI ame badhA thAkI javA mATe UpaDyAM.

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19 kaLA--kharIdInI ane vecANanI kharIdI e eka prakAranI kaLA che. keTalAka mANaso kharIdI karavAmAM kuzaLa hoya che. vastune jotAM ja tenuM mUlya teo pAmI jAya che ane samajAvIne, bhAvatAla karIne, rakajhaka karIne vepA2I pAsethI te vastu sastAmAM meLave che. kaI vastu kyAM sastI maLe che te temanI najara zodhI kADhe che. kaI RtumAM, kayA divasomAM bhAvo vadhaze athavA ghaTaze tevI sUjha teone hoya che. bIjAo karatAM pote ghaNuM sastuM ane sAruM kharIdI lAvyAno temano AnaMda ane garva vadhatAM rahe che. keTalAka vepArIo paNa evA hoya che ke je dukAne caDelA gharAkane pANIpANI karI nAkhe che. gharAkane ene joItI vastu vecavI e to sahelI vAta che, paraMtu je vastu kharIdavA te na nIkaLyo hoya te vastu paNa tene vaLagADI devI e paNa eka kaLA che. gharAka binaanubhavI ke gaNatarI vagarano hoya to e vAta tarata teo pAmI jAya che. potAno mAla vecavAne mATe duniyAmAM badhe ja vepArIone avanavA nusakhA ajamAvavA paDatA hoya che. avikasita ke vikAsazIla dezomAM kharIdImAM bhAvatAla thAya, rakajhaka thAya, kasavAmAM Ave e dekhItuM che. vikasita dezomAM bhAvatAla karavAnI paddhati have ghaTatI jAya che. samaya jyAM ghaNo mUlyavAna banato jAya che tyAM bhAvatAla karavAnI phurasada nathI vepArIne hotI ke nathI dharAkane hotI. yuropa, amerikA ane jApAna jevA dezomAM eka ja nizcita bhAva(Fixed price)nI prathA ghaNI vyApaka banI gaI che. jApAnamAM eka vakhata cAmaDAnI eka haeNnDabaeNga levAnI mane jarUra paDI. eka sToramAM ame gayA. mane bhAva vadhAre lAgyo. te ocho karavA mATe dukAnadArane samajAvavA mArA jApAnI mitrane meM aMgrejImAM kahyuM, to mitre te pramANe kahevAnI nA pADI. teNe kahyuM, "ema bhAva ocho karAvavo te ApaNe mATe bahu kharAba kahevAya. jApAnamAM evI prathA nathI. jApAnamAM dareka vastunA bhAva lakhelA hoya che. tamane game to lo, na game to na lo." mArA mitranI vAta sAcI hatI.

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kaLA - kharIdInI ane vecANanI jApAnamAM koI cIjano bhAva ocho karavAnuM kaho to dukAnadArane game nahi. te moDhuM bagADe. dukAnamAMthI ApaNane kADhI mUke. paraMtu, jApAnamAM keTalIka cIja-vastuonA bhAva eTalA vadhAre hoya che ke te ghaTADavA mATe kahevAnuM ApaNane mana thayA vagara rahe nahi. jApAnamAM ghaNA vakhatathI rahetA bIjA ekabe bhAratIya mitro sAthe A bAbatamAM carcA thaI. eka mitre rasto batAvyo. jApAnamAM vepArIo aMdaraaMdara ekabIjAne DiskAunTa Ape che. tevI rIte koI koI vakhata gharAka jo mAge to tene paNa vepArIo DiskAunTa Ape che. vagaramAge DiskAunTa ApavAnI ke bhAva ghaTADavAnI prathA jApAnamAM nathI. aMgrejI "DiskAunTa' zabda ghaNA jApAnI vepArIo jANatA nathI, eTale e mATeno jApAnI zabda ame jANI lIdho. e zabda te vArIbIkI', bahu moMghuM che ema kahevA mATenI jApAnI zabda che "thakAI." A be zabda jANyA eTale dukAnamAM jaI vastuno bhAva pUchayA pachI ame "thakAI, "thakAI kahIe ane pachI 'vArIbIkI' zabda kahIe. kharIdImAM A ilAja ghaNI vAra saphaLa nIvaDato ane vepArIne mAThuM nahotuM lAgatuM. duniyAnA ghaNA dezomAM have nAnI dukAno cAlatI nathI. moTA DipArTamenTala sTora thavA lAgyA che, ane kharIdI karanArAo have tyAMthI ja kharIdI karatA hoya che. tyAM nakkI karelo vAjabI bhAva hoya che. sToravALA vAjabI maryAdita napho laIne ghaNo moTo vepAra karatA hoya che. eTale saravALe temanI kamANI ghaNI moTI hoya che. eka ja jagyAe ghaNI badhI vastuo maLatI hovAne kAraNe lokono samaya bacI jAya che. eka sAthe seMkaDo naMga jovA maLe che, eTale pasaMdagIne avakAza vadhAre hoya che. keTalAka sToramAM lIdhelI vastu mahinA sudhI badalI zakAya che athavA pAchI ApI zakAya che. ane kazI paDapUcha ke kacakaca vinA tenA tarata pUrA paisA pAchA maLe che. kyAreka vAparyA pachI paNa jo koI cIja barAbara saMtoSakAraka na lAge topaNa pAchI ApI zakAya che. A badhI sagavaDa nAnA dukAnadAro ApI zakatA nathI. temane tyAM mAlamAM paNa moTA sToramAM hoya che teTaluM vaividhya hotuM nathI. pariNAme nAnI dukAno ghaTatI jAya che. jyAM bhAratIya loko pahoMcyAM che tyAM, alabatta, nAnI dukAno haju paNa nabhI che ke vadhe che, kAraNa ke ochAmAM ochA naphe vepAra karavAnI AvaData temanAmAM hoya che. moTA sTorane paNa kyAreka maMdInA samaye, to kyAreka jUno mAla kADhI nAkhavA mATe "sela' rAkhavAM paDe che. keTalAMka "sela" sAcAM hoya che. keTalAMka khoTAM. prathama vastunA bhAva vadhArI pachI temAM vaLatara ApyAno dekhAva karavo

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74 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe e yukti jANItI che. bhoLA loko temAM chetarAya che. bosTanamAM huM mArA eka vidyArthinI jyotibahena dozIne tyAM Utaryo hato. teo bosTanamAM keTalAka sToramAM mane laI gayAM. eka sToramAM ame dAkhala thayAM. tyAM "sela' hatuM. judI judI vastuonA ghaTADelA bhAva lakhyA hatA. keTalAka mANaso vastuonI pasaMdagI karatAM hatAM. sAmAnya rIte amerikAnA sToramAM svacchatA ghaNI hoya che, paraMtu e sToramAM jamIna upara brAuna peparanA ghaNA TukaDA Amatema verAyelA paDyA hatA. meM jyotibahenane phariyAda karatAM kahyuM, "tamArA amerikAmAM paNa aNaghaDa gharAko hoya che kharA. vastu kharIdIne tenA paeNkiMganA kAgaLo phAve tema pheMkIne loko jAya evo dAkhalo ahIM jovA maLe che." jyotibahena jarAka hasyAM, paNa kazuM bolyAM nahi. sToramAMthI bahAra nIkaLIne emaNe mane kahyuM, "A sToramAM paeNkiMganAM je badhAM kAgaLiyAM paDelAM che te gharAkoe phekelAM nathI. sToravALAe pote ja e badhAM evI rIte verelAM che ke AvanAra gharAkane ema lAge ke ghaNA loko A sToramAMthI kharIdI karIne gayA che." jayotibahenanI vAta sAMbhaLI Azcarya thayuM. vecANa vadhAravA mATe duniyAmAM tarakIbono kyAM toTo che ? bIje divase ame bIjA eka vizALa sToramAM gayAM. eka moTA makAnanA bhoMyarAmAM e sTora hato. sela mATe bosTanamAM te khUba jANIto che. tenuM nAma che "bArageina beijhamenTa'. mukhyatve strI-puruSonAM jAtajAtanAM kapaDAM tyAM vecAya che. uparAMta bIjI keTalIka vastuo paNa vecAya che. ame sToramAM dAkhala thayAM tyAre mANasonI puSkaLa bhIDa hatI. jyotibahena kahe ke A sToramAM kAyama ATalI bhIDa hoya che. sAmAnya rIte bIjA sToramAM sAMje bhIDa thAya, paNa ahIM savAre sTora UghaDe tyAre vadhAre bhIDa thAya che. tenuM kAraNa A sToranI vecANanI paddhati che. enI je lAkSaNikatA che te duniyAmAM bhAgye ja bIje kyAMka haze. dareka vastunA lebala upara bhAva lakhelA hoya ane je divase e naMga sToramAM mUkavAmAM AvyuM hoya tenI tArIkha paNa lakhelI hoya che. pahelA aThavADiyAmAM chApelA bhAva pramANe vastu vecAtI maLe. e vastu na vecAI hoya to bIjA aThavADiye te paccIsa TakA DiskAunTathI maLe. trIjA aThavADiye pacAsa TakA DiskAunTathI maLe ane cothA aThavADiyA daramiyAna te paMcotera TakA DiskAunTathI maLe. cothA aThavADiyAnA aMte eTale ke mahinA pachI jo te vastu vecAyA vagara rahI hoya to

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kaLA - kharIdInI ane vecANanI 75 kAunTara uparanA mANasane tArIkha vaMcAvIne tame maphata laI jaI zako. AthI gharAko bhAva jovAne badale prathama tArIkha jue. maphata laI javAnA prasaMgo paNa puSkaLa bane che. paraMtu tenI rAha na jotAM trIjA ke cothA aThavADiye sastAmAM laI janAro varga moTo hoya che. sToravALA tArIkho ke bhAvamAM pheraphAra karI nAkhe evuM na bane. pote gharAkane je vacana ApyuM te barAbara pALe. sToranI kamANI moTA TarnaovaramAM rahelI che, kAraNa ke roja ahIM hajAro mANaso kharIdI mATe Ave che. amerikAmAM jema keTalAMka banAvaTI sela hoya che tema sAcAM "sela paNa hoya che. jApAna ane amerikA karatAM AphrikAnI vAta thoDI judI che. tyAMnAM keTalAMka zaheromAM abhaNa ane hisAba karatAM na AvaDe evAM habasIone cIjavastunI lakhelI kiMmatamAM pacAsathI paMcotera TakA DiskAunTa ApyA pachI paNa vepArIo kyAreka doDhaso-baso TakA napho karatA hoya che. gharAkane zuM game che, keTaluM posAya che ane bIjA vepArIonI spardhAmAM pote keTalo vadhu ke ocho bhAva rAkhI zake che enuM sAcuM mApa je kADhI zake che ane gharAkanA mAnasane je samaje che te vepArI vepAramAM vadhu phAvato hoya che.

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20 magaravADI siMgApuramAM je jovAlAyaka sthaLoe TUrisTa kaMpanIo laI jAya che temAMnuM eka sthaLa che 'magaravADI'-'krokoDAila phArma'. amane jyAre basamAM tyAM laI javAmAM AvyAM tyAre e kevI jAtanuM phArma haze tenI bahu kalpanA na hatI. amArA gAiDe kahyuM, "A eka vyaktigata mAlikInI jagyA che, paraMtu mAlike jAhera janatAne jovA mATe te have khullI mUkI che." bahA2thI joIe to te eka nAnuM makAna hatuM. tenA kampAunDamAM jamaNI bAju thoDI khullI jagyA hatI. ame dAkhala thayA tyAre bAreka varSanI eka cInI kizorI amArI sAme smita karIne cAlI gaI. kuTuMbanI te sabhya haze ema lAgyuM. ame badhAM makAnanA cogAnamAM ekaThAM thayAM. ame dhAryuM hatuM ke koIka moTI vyakti AvIne amane badhuM batAvaze ane samajAvaze. paraMtu tyAM to pelI kizorI ja hAthamAM eka lAMbI soTI laIne AvI pahoMcI. e thoDe dUra gaI tyAre amArA gAiDe haLavethI kahyuM, "A bAra-paMdara varSanI dekhAya che, paraMtu che trIseka varSanI. cInAonI uMmara emanA caherA uparathI keTalIka vAra kaLAtI nathI.' e yuvatI amane iMglizamAM badhuM samajAvavA lAgI. te sAruM iMgliza bolatI hatI. enI vANImAM anubhavanI pAkaTatA jaNAtI hatI.. e khullA cogAnamAM Azare daseka phUTa lAMbI ane ATheka phUTa pahoLI traNa kuMDI hatI. uparAMta chIcharA kUvA jevI eka goLa racanA hatI. ame pAse jaIne joyuM to te darekamAM DhagalAbaMdha nAnAmoTA magaro hatA. jagyAnA abhAva keTalAMka to ekabIjA upara Amatema paDyA hatA. cInI yuvatIe amane samajAvyuM ke uMmara pramANe magarone ahIM judI judI kUMDImAM rAkhavAmAM AvyA che. magaronA zarIranI khAsiyato samajAvavA mATe te potAnA hAthamAM rAkhelI soTIno upayoga karatI hatI. eno avAja sAMbhaLIne ja keTalAka magaro jAgI gayA ane Amatema khasI gayA. koIka magara khase nahi to te jorathI tene soTI mAratI. soTI vAgatAM ja magara aDadho beTho thaI jato ane moDhuM phADato.

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magaravADI yuvatIne amane samajAvyuM ke magaro judI judI jAtanA hoya che : (1) capaTA moDhAvALA magara (jene aMgrejImAM 'krokoDAila' kahe che), (2) goLa moDhAvALA magara (jene aMgrejImAM 'eligeTara' kahe che) ane (3) lAMbI jADI cAMca jevA moDhAvALA magara (jene "geviyala' kahe che). moDhuM baMdha hoya to paNa jenA AgaLanA be athavA cAra dAMta bahAra dekhAya te "krokoDAila" kahevAya. mukha uparAMta raMga, pUMchaDIno AkAra vagere pramANe paNa tenA prakAro paDe che. evA judI judI ekavIsa jAtanA magaro duniyAmAM noMdhAyA che. magara garama pradezanuM, IMDAM mUkanAruM sarerAza vIsa varSanA AyuSyavALuM mAMsAhArI prANI che. te ghaNuMkharuM chIcharA pANImAM rahenAruM ane jarUra pramANe jamIna upara paNa cAlanAruM prANI che. uttara ane dakSiNa amerikA, AphrikA ane eziyAnA dezomAM te nadI, sarovara ane taLAvanA pANImAM ane kyAreka samudranA khArA pANImAM jovA maLe che. sAmAnya rIte tenI laMbAI chasAta phUTanI hoya che, paraMtu ekavIsa phUTa lAMbA magaro paNa pakaDAyA che. tenA AgaLanA paga karatAM pAchaLanA paga lAMbA hoya che. magarI kinArAnI retImAM khADo khodIne temAM potAnAM IMDAM mUkI upara retI DhAMkI de che ane IMDAMnuM rakSaNa kare che. jyAre nIkaLavA bacce avAja kare che tyAre magarI tenI pAse jAya che, kocalAmAMthI bacyuM bahAra kADhe che, tene pANImAM laI jAya che ane pANImAM taratA ane rahetAM zIkhave che. magarano AhAra mAchalI vagere jaLacaro che. paraMtu kyAreka kinArA paranAM sasalAM, haraNa, ziyALa vagere nAnAM jAnavarone mArI nAkhIne te khAI jAya che. amane cInI yuvatIe kahyuM ke teo potAnA vADAmAM ja magarane uchere che. ATalAM je magara-magarI potAnI pAse che tenAthI pUratA pramANamAM baccAM maLI rahetAM hoya che. eTale bahArathI navA magara lAvavAnI bahu jarUra paDatI nathI. chatAM koI koI vakhata jarUra paDe to te pramANe bahArathI, khAsa karIne InDoneziyAthI sArI jAtanAM magaranAM baccAM teo lAve che. pachI e cInI yuvatI amane badhAMne makAnanA aMdaranA bhAgamAM laI gaI. tyAM magaranI cAmaDInA DhagaleDhagalA paDyA hatA. enI durgadha AvatI hatI. yuvatIe amane samajAvyuM ke e cAmaDAne prathama blIciMga pAuDara vaDe blIca karavAmAM Ave ane pachI jo lIsA paththara vaDe tenA upara ghasavAmAM Ave to ApoApa te cAmaDuM kudaratI AchA ke gherA cokaleTI raMgo dhAraNa karavA lAge che. vaLI, e cAmaDAmAM kudaratI nAnAMmoTAM vartuLonI je bhAta

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78 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe hoya che te sarasa UpasI Ave che. bhAta UpasI AveluM cAmaDuM ghaNuM AkarSaka dekhAya che. cAmaDAM upara raMga upasAvavAnuM kAma paththara dvArA hAtha vaDe pahelAM je thatuM, te have mazIna dvArA jhaDapathI karAya che. temAM pILA, kALA vagere raMgonI milAvaTa paNa karI zakAya che. mazIna para kAma karatA mANasoe tenA keTalAka namUnA amane batAvyA. magaravADImAM je magaro ucheravAmAM Ave che te chevaTe cAmaDAnI cIjavastuo mATe tala karavAnA hetuthI ja ucherAya che e vicAre mane udvega thayo. magaranuM cAmaDuM e mAnavajIvananI koI anivArya jarUriyAtanI vastu nathI. e na hoya to jIvanane AMca Ave evuM nathI. mAtra keTalAka lokonA zokha khAtara asaMkhya magaronI katala roja thayA kare e nirdayatA to che ja, paraMtu kudaratI jIvanamAM hastakSepa karavA barAbara paNa che. duniyAmAM magarInI saMkhyA ghaTatI jatI hovAthI bhArata, amerikA vagere keTalAka dezoe magaranA vadha upara have pratibaMdha mUkyo che. bhAratamAM uttara pradezamAM kukarela nAmanA sthaLe magaravADImAM magarane bacAvI laI ucheravAnuM kArya karAya che. siMgApuramAM eka gharanA vADAmAM A rIte ekasAthe lagabhaga pAMcaso jeTalA nAnAmoTA magara jovA maLyA. paraMtu siMgApurathI ame beMgakoka gayA tyAre amAro gAiDa amane je magaravADImAM laI gayo tyAM to nAnAmoTA magarono kaMI pAra na hato. eka ja sthaLe vIsa hajArathI vadhu magara ame tyAM joyA. ahIM siMgApuranI jema nAnI kuMDIo karavAmAM AvI nathI, paraMtu saMkhyAbaMdha nAnAM chIcharAM taLAvo aDoaDa karavAmAM AvyAM che. magarone temanI vaya pramANe judA judA taLAvamAM rAkhavAmAM AvyA che. te badhAMnI pharate, magarone najIkathI surakSita rIte joI zakAya evI ATha-dasa phUTa UMcI lAkaDAnI saLaMga gelerI jevI racanA karavAmAM AvI che. ahIM magaranAM nAnAM baccAMo paNa che ane jabarajasta moTA moTA magaro paNa che. ATalA badhA magarone roja khorAka pUro pADavAnI javAbadArI paNa ghaNI moTI che. roja hajAro mAchalIo temane mATe lAvavAmAM Ave che. gelerImAMthI judI judI jagyAethI marelI tAjI mAchalIo pheMkavAmAM Ave che. te pheMkAtA ja magaro doDAdoDI karI mUke che. jema gAya, bheMsa, kUtaro vagere pALelA prANIo mANasanA avAjathI TevAI jAya che tema pALelA magaro paNa enA cokIdAronA avAjathI TevAI gayelA jaNAyA, mAchalI nAkhatI vakhate teo je avAja karatA tenAthI magaro eTalA badhA TevAI gayelA hatA ke ame eka cokIdArane mAchalI nAkhyA vagara mAtra avAja karavAnuM kahyuM,

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magaravADI 79 topaNa magaro Amatema pANImAM doDAdoDI karavA lAgyA hatA. e magarone peTapUratuM khAvAnuM to nahi ja maLatuM hoya te pratyeka vakhate emanI doDAdoDI parathI joI zakAtuM hatuM. je taLAvamAM cha-sAtathI paMdara-sattara phUTa moTA magaro rAkhavAmAM AvyA hatA tyAM ame gayA. tyAM keTalAka magaro bahAra jamIna upara taDakAmAM AMkha mIMcIne paDyA hatA, jANe zAMtithI kALanirgamana karatA hatA. magaranuM lohI ThaMDuM hoya che eTale taDakAmAM kalAko sudhI paDyA rahevuM temane vizeSa gamatuM hoya che. temanuM zarIra AthI vadhu vadhavAnI eTale ke vadhu cAmaDuM maLavAnI have zakyatA na hatI, eTale temane khorAka bahu apAto na hato. kapAvAnI rAha joIne jANe teo paDyA hoya tevuM lAgatuM hatuM. beMgakokamAM atyaMta vizALa jagyAmAM A magaravADI UbhI karavAmAM AvI che. eTalA ja moTA pAyA 52 eno cAmaDAno udyoga cAle che. magaravADInuM AkarSaNa vadhAravA mATe ahIM prANIbAganI jema vAgha, siMha, vAMdarAM vagere pazuone paNa rAkhavAmAM AvyAM che. magara sAthe mANasa kevI rIte laDAI kare che teno khela paNa batAvavAmAM Ave che. beMgakokanuM krokoDAila phArma joIe tyAre magaronI duniyA kevI hoya che teno ane A hiMsaka prANIno vepArArthe mANase kevo upayoga karyo che teno vadhu khyAla Ave che. magara mANasabhakSI prANI che. AphrikAmAM nAIla nadInA magaro sauthI vadhu bhayAnaka ane mAnavabhakSaNanI AdatavALA gaNAya che. paNa bahu ochA loko e vAta jANatA haze ke AphrikAmAM ja magarabhakSI AdivAsIonI eka jAti paNa che. magaranuM mAMsa temane bahu bhAve che ane je divase moTo magara pakaDAyo hoya te divase AkhA gAmamAM moTo utsava thAya che ane samUhabhojana thAya che. magarano AhAra mANasanI prajotpattinI zakti kSINa karI nAkhe che, eTale e jAtinA AdivAsIonI saMkhyA dhIme dhIme kSINa thatI gaI che. mANasoe ane pazupakSIoe potAnA AhAra mATe keTalo moTo jIvavistAra rAkhyo che ! bhUkhyo jIva zuM na khAya ? 'jIvo jIvasya jIvanam'nuM sUtra ApIne ApaNA pUrvAcAryoe kevI vedhaka vAta karI che !

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| madharAte mUMjhavaNa Ata che nyUyaoNrkathI laMDana pahoMcI huM tyAM hoTela "zarUnA'mAM Utaryo hato. TaoNTanamakaoNrTa roDa pAse rasala sTrITamAM AvelI A nAnakaDI hoTelamAM UtaravAnuM eka kAraNa e hatuM ke te sastI hoTela che. huM Utaryo tyAre siMgala rUmanA rojanA traNa pAunDa levAtA. A hoTelamAM UtaravAnuM bIjuM kAraNa e hatuM ke e zAkAhArI hoTela che. vaLI bhAratIya vAnagIo tyAM maLe che. jamavAmAM dALabhAta, roTalIroTalA, pUrI-paroThA, zAka, athANuM, pApaDa vagere maLe ane nAstAmAM gAMThiyA jalebI, bheLapUrI, IDalI-DhoMsA, masAlAvALI cA vagere maLe. laMDanamAM AvI vAnagIo zarU karanArI A pahelI hoTela. have to evI bIjI keTalIka hoTelo paNa thaI che. zarUnA hoTela, hoTela tarIke nAnakaDI che. enA rUma selphakanTeInDa nahi. dareka mALe traNa-cAra rUma ane badhA vacce eka khUNAmAM bAtharUma tathA saMDAsanI sagavaDa. traNa mALanI A hoTelamAM bhAratIya pravAsIo hoya ane yuropIya pravAsIo paNa hoya. laMDanamAM vasatA gujarAtanA eka zrImaMta vepArI surezabhAI cokasIe zokhathI calAvavA mATe A hoTela lIdhelI. hoTelamAM sAmAna mUkI huM nIce risepzanisTa pAse gayo. risepzanisTa paNa gujarAtI hatA. porabaMdaranA ema.esasI. thayelA eka yuvAna bhAI keTaloka vakhata AphrikA rahI tyAMthI ahIM nokarI karavA AvyA hatA. surezabhAI cokasI mArA paricita che. huM hoTelamAM AvI gayo chuM ema Teliphona dvArA meM temane jaNAvyuM eTale tarata emaNe sAMje potAne ghare jamavA mATe Agraha karyo. oNphisathI chUTIne teo hoTela upara mane levA mATe sAMje Avaze ema nakkI thayuM. bapore jamIne meM rUmamAM sArI UMgha kheMcI, kAraNa ke nyUyorkathI huM Avyo hato eTale TAima Dipharansa(e mATe have navo zabda jet lag)ne kAraNe thoDI UMgha haju mAre pUrI karavAnI bAkI hatI. sAMje taiyAra thaI nakkI karelA samaya pramANe huM nIce laoNbImAM gayo.

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81 madharAte mUMjhavaNa risepzanisTane mArA rUmanI cAvI soMpI to emaNe prazna karyo, "tame rAtanA moDA AvavAnA cho ?'' "hA, lagabhaga sADA dasa agiyAra thaze." "to rUmanI cAvI tamArI pAse ja rAkho. rAtanA dasa vAge amAruM kAunTara baMdha thaI jAya che eTale rAtanA ame koInI cAvI rAkhatA nathI." emanI vAta samajAya tevI hatI, kema ke AvI nAnI hoTelane covIsa kalAka risepzanisTa rAkhavAnuM posAya nahi. meM cAvI khIsAmAM sAcavIne mUkI, kema ke UThatAM-besatAM kyAMka cAvI paDI jAya to rAtane vakhate paMcAta thaI paDe. kAunTara khulluM hoya to vAMdho nahi. risepzanisTa DuplikeTa cAvI Ape. bahAra ThaMDI hatI eTale ovaskoTa paherI huM bahAra rastA upara Ubho rahyo. niyata samaye surezabhAInI moTara AvI pahoMcI. ame temane ghera pahoMcyA. surezabhAIe potAnAM eka gujarAtI mitradaMpatIne paNa jamavAnuM nimaMtraNa ApyuM hatuM. jamIne ame vAto karatAM gayAM ane TI.vI. jotAM gayAM. samaya to ghaDIkamAM pasAra thaI gayo. lagabhaga agiyAra vAgavA AvyA. pAchA pharavA mATe kahevAnuM huM vicArato hato tyAM surezabhAInA mitre ja kahyuM, "ame ramaNabhAIne hoTela upa2 utAratA jaIzuM; surezabhAI, tamAre dhakko khAvAnI jarUra nathI." Teliphona karIne mini TaeNksI bolAvavAmAM AvI. TaeNksImAM hoTela pAse mane utArIne teo cAlyAM gayAM. hoTelanA kAcanA daravAjAne meM haDaselyo, paNa te khUlyo nahi. kAcamAMthI khAsa kazuM dekhAtuM paNa na hatuM, kAraNa ke risepzanisTanuM kAunTara baMdha hatuM ane laoNbInI lAiTa paNa baMdha hatI. mAtra sAme dAdaranI lAiTa cAlu hatI. daravAjo jorathI pharIthI haDaselyo paNa te khUlyo nahi. lAgyuM ke aMdarathI koIe te baMdha karyo hovo joIe. bahAra DaoNrabelanuM baTana zodhavA prayatna karyo, paNa te kyAMya hatuM nahi eTale daravAjA upara TakorA mAryA. paNa tyAM koI hoya to sAMbhaLe ne ? manamAM prazna thayo ke hoTelamAM rAtane vakhate daravAjo kholavA mATe koI cokIdAra nahi hoya ? kadAca hoyaane AghopAcho gayo hoya to thoDI vAramAM Avaze ema samajI - huM keTalIka vAra tyAM Ubho rahyo. ema karatAM lagabhaga aDadho kalAka vItI gayo chatAM koI dekhAyuM nahi. nAnakaDI rasala sTrITa sUmasAma hatI. ziyALAnI rAta hatI. koInI avarajavara dekhAtI na hatI eTale huM mUMjhAyo. thayuM ke AsapAsa paMdara miniTa

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82 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe cakkara mArI AvuM. te daramyAna pharaja parano koI mANasa hoya to te AvI jaze. eka cakkara mArIne huM pAcho AvI pahoMcyo, paraMtu kAcamAMthI joyuM to koI dekhAyuM nahi. mane ciMtA thavA lAgI. manamAM thayuM ke hoTelanA pravAsIomAMthI koI bahAra janAra nIkaLe topaNa daravAjo khUle, paraMtu eka to A nAnI hoTelamAM pravAsIo ochA ane temAM vaLI ATalI rAte bahAra janAra koNa hoya ? vaLI thayuM ke mArI jema kadAca koI bahAra gayA hoya ane AvI pahoce to sAruM; kaMIka rasto nIkaLe topaNa thoDIka mAnasika rAhata to anubhavAya. keTaloka samaya pasAra thaI gayo paNa aMdarathI bahAra AvanAra ke bahArathI aMdara janAra koI dekhAyuM nahi. mane thayuM ke A prazna have vikaTa banato jAya che. surezabhAIne phona karIne samAcAra ApI zakAya evI sagavaDa paNa AsapAsa nahotI. emanuM ghara dUra hatuM. ane ekalA emane ghera pahoMcI zakAya evo rastAno jANakAra paNa huM nahoto. eTale manamAM nakkI karyuM ke pAMcapaMdara miniTe je koI mANasa A galImAMthI pasAra thAya tene saMkoca rAkhyA vagara mArI mUMjhavaNanI vAta karavI. keTalIka vAre eka sajjana tyAMthI pasAra thayA. meM temane vAta karI. temaNe daravAjo haDaselI joyo. bAraNA upara TakorA mAryA. pachI kahyuM, "bAraNuM laoNka che. koIe bhUlathI aMdarathI laoNka karI nAkhyuM che. hoTelano daravAjo to khullo ja hovo joIe. daravAjo baMdha rAkhavAno hoya to hoTelavALAe tamane sUcanA ApavI joIe. ApI che tamane kaMI sUcanA ?" "nA, mane kaMI sUcanA ApI nathI." "to e hoTelavALAnI bhUla kahevAya. have bIjo kaMI rasto nathI. tamAre polIsane khabara ApavI joIe." ema kahI te cAlatA thayA. polIsane khabara ApavI ke nahi ane ApavI to kyAM, kevI rIte ane tenuM zuM pariNAma Ave e badhA prazna mArI mUMjhavaNa to UlaTAnI vadhI. paNa nakkI karyuM ke polIsamAM to khabara ApavI ja nathI. mane ajANyAne e badhI vidhi AvaDe nahi. bIjA upAyo ane vikalpono vicAra karato karato oNksapharDa sTrITanA nAkA sudhI AMTo mArI pharI pAcho daravAjA pAse AvIne zAMtithI Ubho rahyo. thoDI thoDI vAre te khakhaDAvato gayo. evAmAM galIne nAke koIka sajjana AvatA dekhAyA. pAse AvyA eTale meM emane mArI mUMjhavaNanI vAta karI. emaNe kahyuM, "AvI nAnI hoTelo rAtane

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83 madharAte mUMjhavaNa vakhate da2vAjo baMdha rAkhatI hoya to daravAjAnI cAvI tamane ApavI joIe.'' "mane cokkasa khabara che ke daravAjAnI cAvI mane ApavAmAM AvI nathI.' "to tamane bIjI kaMI sUcanA ApavAmAM AvI che ?" "nA, kazI ja nahi. mAtra mane eTaluM kahevAmAM AvyuM ke rAtre dasa vAgyA pachI risepzanisTanuM kAunTara baMdha thaI jAya che mATe rAtane vakhate bahAra jatI vakhate rUmanI cAvI mAre mArI pAse rAkhavI.' "kyAM che e cAvI ?'' meM khIsAmAMthI cAvI kADhI. emaNe kahyuM, "kadAca rUmanI cAvIthI ja daravAjo khUlato haze.'' emaNe to cAvI lagADI ane tarata daravAjo khUlyo. huM to Azcaryacakita thaI gayo. mUMjhavaNano acAnaka aMta Avyo. meM e sajjanano khUba khUba AbhAra mAnyo. hoTelamAM dAkhala thaI meM tarata ovarakoTa utAryo. UbhAM UbhAM paga to dukhI gayA hatA, paNa vajanadAra ovarakoTa paherIne khabhA paNa dukhI gayA hatA. huM rUmamAM dAkhala thayo. palaMgamAM sUto. paNa UMgha kyAMthI Ave ? nyUyaoNrkanA TAima-Dipharansane lIdhe UMgha nahi AvatI hoya e kAraNa kadAca haze, paNa ethI vizeSa kAraNa to AkhI ghaTanAnuM nATaka vAraMvAra najara sAme bhajavAyA karyuM te hatuM.

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pAsAna-hAmano dhodha pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM philipAinsa e bAra mukhya TApuo ane bIjA seMkaDo nAnA nAnA TApuo (kula 7107 TApuo)no banelo khetIpradhAna deza che. speniza lokoe tyAM lagabhaga cAraso varSa rAjya kyuM. pachI AvyA amerikano. bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate jApAne teno kabajo lIdho. amerikAe te choDAvyo. tyAra pachI philipAInsa svataMtra rASTra banyuM che. philipAinsanI prajA ekaMdare garIba che. mukhyatve te pristI dharma pALe che. philipAinsamAM ATha judI judI bhASAo bolAya che, jemAM tagaloga mukhya che. enI rASTrabhASA philipino che. mAtRbhASA ane rASTrabhASA uparAMta ghaNA loko aMgrejI paNa sArI rIte jANe che. philipAInsanuM havA khAvAnuM suprasiddha sthaLa te bAgiyo che. lagabhaga cha hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe te AveluM che. mArA bhAI bharatabhAI sAthe huM tyAM gayo hato. tyAM be divasa ame hayaphaya. have amAro kAryakrama moTararasta manilA jaI pAgyAna-jAna-hAma(athavA pAmsAna-hAma)no dhodha jovA javAno hato. philipAInsamAM AvelA A prapAtanuM darzana e pravAsIo mATe aneruM AkarSaNa gaNAya che. manilA pahoMcI ame eka TUrisTa kaMpanInI TUramAM te mATe nAma noMdhAvI dIdhAM. enA dara thoDA moMghA hatA, paraMtu hoTelamAMthI amane laI jAya ane hoTelamAM pAchAM pahoMcADe tyAM sudhInI badhI vyavasthA TUrisTa kaMpanInI hatI. emAM cA-nAsto, baporanuM khANuM, hoDIbhADuM, Tipa vagerenA paisA paNa AvI jatA hatA. pAgyAna-hAmano dhodha jovA mATe savAre nIkaLIe to sAMje hoTela upara samayasara pAchA AvI pahoMcAya. manilAthI Asare sittara kilomITaranuM aMtara che. nizcita samaye amane teDavA mATe basa AvI pahoMcI. yuropiyana, amerikana, cInI, jApAnI, maleziyana vagere lagabhaga paccIseka pravAsIo ame hatA. manilA zahera choDI amArI basa eksapresa rastA upara AvI pahoMcI. philipAInsa jevA nAnA deze paNa potAnA gajA pramANe, yuropa ane

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85 pAssAna-hAmano dhodha amerikAnI jema, vAhano mATe pacAsa ke so kilomITara jeTalA lAMbA AvA thoDAka eksapresa rastAo banAvyA che. keTalIka vAre amArI eksapresa rasto choDI nAnakaDAM gAmaDAMonA sAMkaDA rastAomAMthI pasAra thavA lAgI. khullA AkAza nIce nAnAM nAnAM jhUMpaDAo, nALiyerInAM vRkSo ane cokhAnAM khetaro vALo A hariyALo pradeza ApaNA govA ke kerAlAnA evA grAmapradezanI yAda apAve. amArI basa eka nadI pAse AvI pahoMcI. tyAM kinArA upara eka moTI paNa gAmaThI lAge evI hoTela hatI. amArA gAIDe kahyuM, "ahIM nadImAM hoDImAM besI dhodha sudhI tamAre javAnuM che. tame sau cA-pANI laIne jaI zako cho. tame pAchA Avazo tyAre bhojana taiyAra haze. hoDIno cArja ame bharI dIdho che. paraMtu hoDIvALAne tamAre dasa peso [philipAinsanuM calaNa ; eka paiso (Peso) eTale ApaNo lagabhaga eka rUpiyo Tipa ApavAnI raheze. ahIMno e dhAro che." A sAMbhaLatAM ja amArAmAMnA thoDAka pravAsIoe kacavATa vyakta karyo. temaNe kahyuM, "TipanA ATalA badhA paisA hoya ? vaLI ame TUranA paisA pUrA bharyA che. emAM TipanA paisA paNa AvI jAya che. amAre jo e judA ApavAnA hoya to tamAre amane pahelethI kahevuM joItuM hatuM." amArI sAthe AvelA eka cInI pravAsIe to Tipa ApavAno bedhaDaka InkAra karI dIdho. TipanI rakama nAnI na hatI eTale ja A rakajhaka thaI. chevaTe gAIDe kahyuM, "bhale, tamane ThIka lAge to Apajo; nahi to huM tenI vyavasthA karI laIza." vaLI gAIDe kahyuM, "dhodha sudhI javAmAM kapaDAM bhIMjAI jAya che, mATe ochAmAM ochAM kapaDAM paherIne jajo. pAchAM pharatAM bhInA kapaDe tamAre basano pravAsa karavo na paDe eTalA mATe A sUcanA che. jarUra lAge to ahIM hoTelamAM svimiMga kaoNTyUma bhADe maLe che. te laI zako cho. tamArI ghaDiyALa hoTelanA laoNkaramAM mUkIne jajo. tamArA kaeNmerA mATe hoTela taraphathI tamane plAsTikanI kothaLI ApavAmAM Avaze. e jarUra lejo, nahi to tamAro kemerA bhIMjAI jaze." hoTelamAM kapaDAM badalavA mATe judA moTA oraDA hatA. tyAM kapaDAM mATe ane ghaDiyALa, paisA vagerenuM jokhama rAkhavA mATe laoNkaranI khAsa vyavasthA rAkhavAmAM AvI hatI. vaLI tyAM madada karavA mATe nokaro UbhelA hatA.

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pravAsIo vA ke pariDamAM te 86 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe amane pahelethI khabara hatI eTale ame amAruM potAnuM svimiMga komyuma sAthe laI lIdhuM hatuM. te paherIne ame cAlyAM. ughADA zarIre, ughADA page ame thoDAM pagathiyAM UtarI nadInA kinAre gayAM. amArAmAMnAM keTalAMkane nadIno zAMta pravAha joI bUTa ke kapaDAM kADhavAnuM ThIka na lAgyuM. keTalAMke hAthe ghaDiyALa paNa paherI rAkhI, vaoNTaraprUpha che ame kahIne. koIkane kemerA mATe plAsTikanI kothaLI levAmAM vadhAre paDatI cIkAza lAgI. - nadIkinAre raMgaberaMgI caTApaTAvALI so-savAso khAlI hoDIo pANImAM hArabaMdha UbhelI hatI. eka pachI eka hoDI pagathiyAM pAse Ave eTale be athavA vadhumAM vadhu traNa pravAsIone emAM besADavAmAM AvatAM. strIone judI hoDImAM besADavAmAM AvatI, sivAya ke pati-patnI sAthe javA icchatAM hoya. jADApAtaLAne lakSamAM rAkhIne besADAtAM, jethI hoDImAM bhAra vadhI na jAya. hoDI bharAya ke tarata cAle. huM ane mArA bhAI bharatabhAI eka hoDImAM beThA. amArI sAthe pelA cInI sajjanane besADavAmAM AvyA. temaNe potAnAM kapaDAM paherI rAkhyAM hatAM. hoDI chIcharI, sAMkaDI ane sapATa hatI. temAM koI beThako karavAmAM AvI nahotI. hoDInA baMne cheDe eka eka nAvika hato. vacamAM nIce amAre besavAnuM hatuM, paNa bahu vicitra rIte dareka besanAre potAnA beya paga pahoLA karI hoDInI baMne bAjue aDe e rIte AkhA lAMbA karavAnA hatA, jANe vyAyAmanA vargamAM ame dAkhala thayA. bIjA mANase paNa e rIte pahoLA paga rAkhIne pahelA mANasanA khoLAmAM jANe beThA hoya teTalA aDoaDa besavAnuM hatuM. e ja rIte trIjA mANase paNa. amArI hoDI pANImAM sarakavA lAgI. vAtAvaraNa zItala ane khuzanumA hatuM, paNa nAviko ghaDIe ghaDIe sarakhA na besavA mATe amArA para ciDAtA. prakRtisaundarya nihALatAM AnaMda thato hato, paNa amArAM zarIra thoDI vAramAM ja akaLAvA lAgyAM hatAM. jakaDAyelA jamaNA pagane jarAka ArAma ApavA meM ghUMTaNathI saheja UMco karyo. eTalAmAM hoDI hAlakaDolaka - thaI, eka bAju namI paDI. aMdara thoDuM pANI bharAI gayuM. amArA koMgrUma bhIMjAyAM. ame hoDIvALA upara ciDAyA. te amArA upara ciDAyo. tenI bhAMgItUTI aMgrejI parathI amane samajAyuM ke vAMka mAro ja hato. paga UMco karavAne lIdhe ja hoDIe samatolapaNuM gumAvyuM hatuM. baMne hoDIvALAe hoDImAM bharAyeluM pANI halesAM vaDe ghaDIkamAM ulecI kADhyuM. rojanA mahAvarAne lIdhe ja ATalI badhI temanI jhaDapa hatI. zarUAtamAM amane thayuM ke hoDIvALo khoTo ciDAyA kare che, paraMtu have amane khAtarI thaI ke eka paNa pravAsI potAno

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pAgmAna-hAmano dhodha 87 paga saheja paNa UMco kare to tarata ja hoDI eka bAju namI paDatI; hoDImAM pANI bharAI jatuM ane DUbI javAnuM jokhama UbhuM thatuM. pachIthI to amane thayuM ke bhale phAve nahi ane akaLAI javAya topaNa paga sIdhA rAkhavAmAM ja amArI salAmatI hatI. nadImAM sAme pravAhe amArI hoDI. cAlatI hatI, eTale nAviko jorajorathI halesAM mAratA hatA. jema jema ame AgaLa gayA tema tema nadIno pravAha sAMkaDo thato gayo. baMne kinAre UMcI bhekhaDo AvavA lAgI. nadInAM pANI chIcharAM thatAM gayAM. ame sAme najara karI to dekhAyuM ke nadIno pravAha vacce thaIne dhasamasato vaheto Avato hato. ame mAnyuM ke have page cAlIne javAnuM haze, kAraNa ke khaDako vaccethI hoDI cAlI zake evo saMbhava nahoto. paraMtu amArA Azcarya vacce hoDI khaDako vaccethI jalamArga ka2tI vAMkIcUMkI cAlavA lAgI. nadInA chIcharA ane sAMkaDA paTamAM hoDI haMkAravAnI hoDIvALAnI kaLA kaMIka anokhI ja hatI. baMne nAviko ekabIjAne sUcanA ApatA jAya ane te pramANe hoDI kSaNe kSaNe vaLAMka letI jAya. hoDI je bAju jarAka name ke tarata te bAjuno nAvika pANImAM kUdI paDe ane hAtha vaDe hoDIne sIdhI kare. kamara ke ghUMTaNa sudhI chIcharuM pANI hoya eTale pANImAM kUdI paDavAnuM tene phAve. kaI jagyAe pANI keTaluM UMDuM haze tenA teo jANakAra hatA. keTalIka vakhata nAvikoeka kSaNamAM pANImAM paDe, ane bIjI kSaNe to hoDImAM pAchA AvI gayA hoya. kyAreka pAchA AvatAMnI sAthe jarUra paDe to tarata bIjI bAju kUdI paDyA hoya. koIka vakhata hoDIne vaLAMka ApavA ke bhaTakAtI aTakAvavA UbhA UbhA eka paga bahAra laMbAvI pAse AvelA khaDaka upara Tekave. koI vakhata halesuM hAthamAM UMdhuM pakaDI eno dAMDo khaDaka upara TekavI enI sahAyathI hoDIne dhakko mAre. koIka vakhata teo hoDInI kinAra upara eka cheDethI bIje cheDe doDI jatA. A temanI kriyA eTalI jhaDapathI banatI ke jANe teo doraDA upara naTano khela na karI rahyA hoya ! koI vakhata jANe teo nartana karI rahyA hoya tevA bhAsatA. koIka vakhata ApaNI najara sAme jANe saMtAkUkaDI ramI rahyA hoya eTalI jhaDapathI eka bAjuthI bIjI bAju teo kUdI jatA. jema jema ame AgaLa gayA tema tema thoDe thoDe aMtare hoDIne UMce caDhAvavAnuM paNa banatuM. pAchaLano nAvika nIce pANImAM kUdI paDI nAvane UMcI karato. jyAM caDhANa vadhAre paDatuM hoya tyAM ane hoDI potAnI meLe caDhI zake

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88 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe ema na hoya evI jagyAe jhADanuM ekAda thaDa ke moTo paththara ke jADo saLiyo pANImAM ADo rAkhavAmAM Avyo hato. ethI vegathI AvatI hoDI aDadhI enA upara caDhI jatI ane tatkSaNa pAchaLano nAvika pANImAM kUdI paDIne bAkInI hoDIne AgaLa jorathI haDaselI deto. A kaSTabharyuM kArya ghaDIkamAM teo karI letA. kyAreka hoDI pAchI paNa paDI jatI to pharI pAcho dhakko marAto. AvA sAMkaDA ane patharALa jaLamArgamAM paNa judI judI hoDIo vacce AgaLa nIkaLI javA mATe tIvra spardhA, rakajhaka ke takarAro paNa thatI. bIjAnuM je thavAnuM hoya te thAya, paNa potAnI hoDIne AgaLa kADhI levA mATe vakhatovakhata temanI vacce sAghUsI thatI. vikAsazIla dezonI garIba prajAnI A lAkSaNika TevanI ApaNane navAI na lAge, paNa yuropa-amerikAnA pravAsIone to jarUra lAge. vadhu pherA karI vadhu kamAvA mATenI A vyavasAyI spardhA hatI. kyAre ApaNane Dara lAge ke sAmethI bephAma dhasI AvatI hoDI sAthe ApaNI hoDI jorathI bhaTakAze ane ApaNe pANImAM gabaDI paDIzuM. paraMtu teve vakhate hoDIvALAnI samayasUcakatA dekhAI AvatI. teo hoDIne AgaLapAchaLa evI rIte vaLAMka ApI detA ke hoDIo bhaTakAtI rahI jatI. salAmatI tarIke ApaNA potAnA hAtha beya bAju bahAra na rAkhatAM aMdara rAkhavA paDatA. samatulA jALavavA mATe paNa hoDInI baMne kinA2 aMdaranI bAjuthI pakaDavI paDatI. hoDInI saphara A rIte satata adhdhara zvAse thatI hatI. amArAM zarIra to kyAranAMya AkhAM bhIMjAI gayAM hatAM. amArA sahapravAsI cInI sajjananAM to badhAM ja kapaDAM bhIMjAI gayAM hatAM. temaNe ghaDiyALa kADhI khIsAmAM mUkI dIdhI hatI. temane gAiDanI sUcanA have samajAI hatI. ame jema jema AgaLa jatA gayA tema tema baMne bAju vadhu UMcI bhekhaDo AvatI gaI. AgaLa jatAM to te bhekhaDo pAMcasothI hajAra phUTa UMcI hatI. vaLAMkone lIdhe to koIka sthaLe jANe koI UMDA aMdhArA kUvAmAM ApaNe UtaryA hoIe tevuM lAge. sIdhI UMce najara karIe to AkAzano nAnakaDo TukaDo dekhAya. lagabhaga doDheka kalAke ame dhodha pAse pahoMcyAM. ahIM amane hoDImAMthI UtarI javAnuM kahevAyuM. seMkaDo pravAsIo tyAM ekatra thayA. e badhAMne lAvanAra hoDIo tyAM jamA thaI hatI. thoDI thoDI vAre keTalIka hoDIo AvatI ane keTalIka vidAya letI.

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pAsAna-hAmano dhodha te pAgyAna-hAmano dhodha lagabhaga baso phUTa UMcethI jorathI paDato hato. dhodhanI nIce taLAva jevI racanA thaI gaI hatI. emAM moTo tarApo pheravavAmAM Avato. je pravAsIone barAbara dhodhanI nIce javuM hoya teone A tarApAmAM besADIne laI javAmAM AvatA. tenA judA paisA ApavAnA nahotA. khAlI jUnAM pIpa ane moTaranAM havAbharelAM jUnAM TAyo vaDe banAvelo A gAmaThI tarApo hato. ekasAthe daseka pravAsIone temAM besADavAmAM AvatA. taLAvamAM barAbara vaccethI pasAra thAya evI rIte jADuM majabUta doraDuM UMce bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM hatuM te pakaDIne ane vAMsaDAnA haDaselAthI tarApAvALA TheTha dhodha nIce tarApo pahoMcADatA. dhodhanA pANInI barAbara bAjumAMthI amAro tarApo pasAra thayo. pANInA zIkaromAM bhIMjAvAnI amane, majA paDI, paraMtu kSaNavAramAM amArI majA nIkaLI gaI. dhodhamAra paDatAM dhodhanAM pANI pavananA jorane kAraNe AvAMpAchAM paDatAM hatAM. amAro tarApo dhodhanI vadhu najIka Avyo tyAre amArA upara ThaMDuM pANI eTalA vegathI satata paDatuM rahyuM ke amane te dhaDAdhaDa vAgavA mAMDyuM. zvAsa levAmAM takalIpha paDavA lAgI. gUMgaLAmaNa thavA lAgI. badhAMnA zvAsa adhdhara thaI gayA. pANI eTaluM satata paDatuM hatuM ke zvAsa levA mATe ghaDIe ghaDIe moDhuM kholavuM paDatuM. amArA tarApAmAM AvelI eka amerikana yuvatIe to gabharAIne cIso pADavA mAMDI. paNa dhodhanA pANInA avAjamAM e cIso paNa dabAI gaI. A eka sAhasika ane jokhamI anubhava hato. amane thayuM ke kAcApocA mANasanuM ahIM kAma nahi. alabatta, tarApAvALA ghaNA cAlAka ane kunehavALA hatA. teo dara paMdara miniTe dhodha pAsethI cakkara mAratA. A temano rojano vyavasAya hato. eTale temane to bIpha hoya ja zI ? dhodha pAsethI tarApo pasAra thAya tyAre uparathI paDatA pANIno vega ane jaththo koI vakhata ghaNo vadhAre hoya to teo pravAsInI ADe UbhA rahI dhodhano mAra pote jhIlI letA. prapAtanAM paDatAM pANImAM snAna karavAno sAhasika ane romAMcaka anubhava karI ame pAchAM pharyAM. hoDIvALAoe amane bolAvIne potAnI hoDImAM besADyAM. have hoDInuM kAma saraLa hatuM. nadInAM pANI nIce vahetAM jatAM hatAM. vaheNanI sAthe hoDI sarakatI hatI. nAvikono zrama mAtra khaDako vacce hoDIne vaLAMko ApavAno raheto. thoDI vAramAM to ame nadInA pahoLA paTamAM AvI

Page #111
90 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe pahoMcyAM. prakRtisaundaryano AnaMda to hato ja. temAM vaLI ame rAhatano paNa AnaMda anubhavyo. sUryanA prakAzamAM amArAM bhInAM zarIra sukAI gayo. hoTela pAsenA kinAre ame UtaryA. amArAM zarIra jakaDAI gayAM hatAM beThAM beThAM. hoDIvALAnA zarIramAM haju skUrti hatI. bIjo phero karavAnI ane navA gharAkone laI javAnI utsukatA temanI AMkhomAM varatAtI hatI. rojeroja - AvuM parizramabhareluM kAma karanArAonI tAsIra ja judI hatI. emanA caherA upara satata vyagratAnI pAkI rekhAo aMkita thaI gaI hatI. emanA paga rAMTA thaI gayA hatA. paganA goTalA kaThaNa banI gayA hatA. paganAM taLiyAM pANInI nIcenA vAMkAcUMkA paththaro para bhAra daIne cAlavAthI sapATa thaI gayAM hatAM. paganAM taLiyAnI dhoLI rekhA satata pANImAM rahevAne lIdhe vadhu UMcI AvI hatI. sUryanA tApane lIdhe emanAM ughADAM zarIra kALAM paDI gayAM hatAM. hoDImAMthI ame UtaryA eTale baMne nAvikoe bakSisa mATe salAma karI. paraMtu ame khulAso karIe te pahelAM emaNe ja kahyuM, "Apa kapaDAM paherIne ane paisA laIne Avo tyAM sudhI ame rAha joIe chIe." ame kapaDAM paherI nAviko pAse AvyAM. peTane khAtara temanI kALI majUrI joIne ame gAiDe kahI tethI bamaNI bakSisa ApI. pelA cInI sajjanathI paNa vadhu bakSisa ApyA vinA rahevAyuM nahi.

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modhI zaucakriyA holenDamAM roTaraDAma zaheramAM "yuro mAsTa' joIne ame pAMca jaNa eka resTorAMmAM cApANI mATe gayAM. oNrDara ApI ame beThAM hatAM. thoDe dUra ToyaleTanuM pATiyuM vaMcAtuM hatuM. ame savAranA pahelAM nIkaLyAM hatAM, eTale cApANI Ave tyAM sudhImAM bAtharUma javAnuM kAma patAvavA vicAryuM. ame gayAM. bAtharUmamAMthI bahAra nIkaLI ame pAchAM pharatAM hatAM tyAM veiTara jevI eka yuvatI amArI pAse AvI pahoMcI. TaoNyaleTano upayoga karavAnA eNe paisA mAgyA. eka baoNrDa tarapha AMgaLI karI eNe TaoNyaleTano bhAva lakhelo amane vaMcAvyo. paisA ApavA paDyA. ame joyuM ke TaoNyaleTamAM jatI vakhate e baoNrDa dekhAtuM nahotuM, paraMtu pAchA pharIe tyAre tenA para najara paDatI hatI. borDa hetupUrvaka evI rIte rAkhavAmAM AvyuM che ane bhAva bIje karatAM vadhAre rakhAyo che tenI khAtarI thaI. paisA meLavavA mATe paNa kevI yukti laDAvavAmAM Ave che teno paricaya thayo. mArA mATe Avo anubhava navo na hato. eka vakhata phrenkapharTanA eraporTa upara "jenTasanuM pATiyuM vAMcI laghuzaMkA mATe huM dAkhala thayo. TaoNyaleTa mATe yuropamAM paisA ApavA paDe che enI khabara hatI, eTale paisAnI sUcanA kyAMya mUkI nathI enI khAtarI karIne huM aMdara dAkhala thayo hato. bahAra Avyo tyAre eka khUNAmAM eka kadAvara bAI beThI hatI. enA Tebala upara eka pATiyuM jhINA akSare lakheluM hatuM. mane bahAra nIkaLato joI tarata eNe mane te pATiyuM vaMcAvyuM. temAM lakhelA dara pramANe bAtharUma javAnA paisA ApavA paDyA. paisA ApI huM hAtha dhovA gayo. hAtha dhoIne jevo AgaLa vadhuM ke tarata e bAIe pharI mane aTakAvyo. hAtha dhovAnA judA paisA mAgyA. pharI eNe potAnuM pATiyuM UMdhuM karIne bIjI bAju lakheluM mane viMcAvyuM. temAM hAtha dhovAno bhAva paNa lakhelo hato. yuropamAM sAmAnya rIte eraporTa upara, relave sTezana ke resTorAMmAM TaoNyaleTanA paisA levAmAM AvatA nathI, paraMtu keTalAMka zaheromAM have eNrapaoNrTa upara paisA levAnuM zarU thayuM che. alabatta, resTorAMmAM paNa TaoNyaleTanA paisA levAya che evo anubhava roTaraDAmamAM pahelI vAra thayo.

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pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe iMglaeNnDamAM, amerikAmAM, jApAnamAM ane bIjA ghaNA dezomAM TaoNyaleTanA paisA jAhera sthaLomAM levAtA nathI, paraMtu yuropanA ghaNAkharA dezomAM jAhera sthaLomAM paNa paisA levAnuM keTalAka samayathI zarU thayuM che. koI koI sthaLe relavesTezana, eNrapaoNrTa, resTorAM ke DipArTamenTala sTorsamAM paisA levAtA nathI. yuropamAM jIvanadhoraNa ghaNuM moMghuM banatuM jAya che ane nibhAvakharca eTalo vadhato jAya che ke kudaratI hAjatane mATe loko pAsethI paisA paDAvavAnuM tyAMnI prajAne ane sarakArane sUjhyuM che. te mATeno dara paNa bhAratanI apekSAe ghaNo UMco lAge. temAM paNa pravAsa mATe videzI calaNa ochuM hoya to zaucakriyA mATe A kharca binajarUrI lAge ane kyAMka phasAIne paisA ApavA paDe to teno aphasosa paNa thAya. 92 ame yuropamAM paMdara divasa pharyAM, paraMtu roTaraDAmamAM pATha zIkhyA pachI cokasAI karyA vinA TaoNyaleTamAM na javAnI Teva paDI gaI. eTaluM ja nahi paNa ekasAthe badhAMe na javuM paNa pahelI vyakti pAchI AvyA pachI nakkI thAya ke paisA paDAvavA mATe koI yukti goThavAI nathI to te pachI bIjAe javuM ema nakkI karyuM. yuropamAM keTalAMka jAhera sthaLomAM TaoNyaleTanA paisA udharAvavA mATe mANaso nathI hotA. jyAM mANasono pagAra paNa moMgho paDe teve sthaLe TaoNyaleTanA daravAjA evI rIte banAvavAmAM AvyA hoya che ke aMdara paisA nAkho to ja te daravAjo UghaDe ane bahAra nIkaLo tyAre spriMga vaDe daravAjo potAnI meLe baMdha thaI jAya. keTaleka sthaLe AvI vyavasthAno paNa tyAMnI ja prajA geralAbha uThAve che. eka sthaLe zALAnA vidyArthIonA eka pravAsI jUthanA zikSake amane kahyuM, "ame to eka ja vakhata TaoNyaleTamAM paisA nAkhIe. daravAjo khUlyA pachI e daravAjo ame baMdha thavA na daIe. eka vidyArthI e pakaDI Ubho rahe. vArApharatI badhA ja vidyArthIo jaI Ave. nAnAM chokarAMone zarama zI ?'' TaoNyaleTanA paisA ApavA e tyAMnA sthAnika lokone paNa na gamatI vAta che e ghaNe sthaLe jovA maLyuM che. pazcimanA dezomAM zaucakriyA to moMghI thatI jAya che. paraMtu keTalAMka resTorAMmAM tapAsa karyA vinA pIvAnuM pANI maMgAvIe to paisA paNa bilamAM lakhAIne Ave che. have havAno paNa vAro Ave to navAI nahi !

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seTa polI DenmArkanA kopanaheganathI ame jarmanImAM hembarga pahoMcyAM. ame lagabhaga pAMtrIseka bhAratIya pravAsIo hatAM. amArAmAMnAM keTalAMka paMjAbanAM, keTalAMka baMgALanAM ane keTalAMka dakSiNa bhAratanAM hatAM. gujarAtIo ame cAreka hatAM. amArAmAMnAM dakSiNa bhAratanAM pravAsIo sauthI vadhu zrImaMta hatAM. hembarga amAruM vimAna nirdhArita samaya karatAM moDuM pahoMcyuM hatuM. pariNAme hembargamAM amane zaheradarzana mATe laI janArI jarmana gAIDa yuvatIne be kalAka amArI "hoTela elTonAmAM besI rahevuM paDyuM hatuM. ame hoTelamAM pahoMcyAM tyAM lancano samaya thaI gayo hato, paraMtu amArAmAMnAM ghaNAMkharAMe evuM sUcana karyuM ke jo phakta cA-kaoNpha laIne ApaNe tarata basamAM besI jaIe to vadhu samaya na bagaDe ane nagaradarzana mATe ApaNane nirAMta rahe. paraMtu dakSiNa bhAratIya zrImaMta strI-puruSoe lanca levAno Agraha rAkhyo, eTale amAre bIjA be kalAka thobhavuM paDyuM. pariNAme amAro nagaradarzanano kAryakrama be divasamAM vaheMcAI gayo. amArI basa nagaradarzana mATe UpaDI. zaheranAM yUjhiyama, yunivarsiTI, Doka vagere keTalAMka sthaLo batAvIne amArI basa hembarganA seTa paulI nAmanA mazahUra vistAramAMthI pasAra thavA lAgI. amArI gAIDe kahyuM, "saMta paoNla nAmanA saMta mahAtmAnA pavitra nAmathI A vistAra "meMTa paulI tarIke oLakhAya che, paNa hembargano A sauthI vadhu apavitra vistAra che. tame rastAnI baMne bAju najara karo eTale khAtarI thaze !' seMTa paulI vistAranA rIparabahAna nAmanA dhorI rastAnI baMne bAju najara karatAM thoDe thoDe aMtare AvatI dukAno upara nagna strIonAM moTAM moTAM posTaro lagAvelAM najare paDyAM. vaLI dukAnonI bahAra saMkhyAbaMdha raMgIna zRMgArI phoTAo kAcanA kabATamAM laTakAvelA dekhAtA hatA. Sex-MinonAM, PomonAM Live-ShownAM sAinaborDa dukAno upara moTA akSare lakhelAM vaMcAtAM hatAM. amArI gAIDe kahyuM, "hembargano A vistAra duniyAnA AvA vistAromAM sauthI moTo che. hembarga yuropanuM eka moTuM ane jUnuM baMdara che.

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84 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe roja hajAro khalAsIonI avarajavara ahIM thAya che ane jyAM khalAsIonI avarajavara bahu hoya tyAM AvA vistAro paNa svAbhAvika rIte hoya. DaoNka pAse A vistAra saikAo pahelAM cAlu thayelo. vakhatovakhata ene Adhunika rUpa apAtuM gayuM che. ahIMno vezyAvADo AkhI duniyAmAM sauthI vadhu adyatana ane phezanebala che. e jovA roja hajAro pravAsIo ahIM Ave che." vaLI eNe kahyuM, "A vistAra nAmacIna che. rAtanA ekaladokala pharanAra pravAsI ahIM lUMTAI jAya che. ahIM phasAvavAnA dhaMdhA puSkaLa cAle che. ahIM nAiTaklabamAM jatAM bahu sAvadha rahejo. jarmana chokarIo bahu jabarI ane Akramaka svabhAvanI hoya che. teo eskorTa tarIke nAiTaklabamAM tamArI sAthe Ave to tamArA kharce puSkaLa Triksa pI le che. enA bhAva paNa vadhAre hoya che ane bila banAvavAnI bAbatamAM nAITaklabamAM veITaronI smaraNazakti IrAdApUrvaka bahu sArI hotI nathI, eTale dhAryA karatAM bila bahu moTuM Ave che. klabamAM janAra ekaladokala pravAsInuM khIsuM jyAM sudhI pUrepUruM khaMkheravAmAM na Ave tyAM sudhI tene koI bahAra nIkaLavA detuM nathI. keTalIka klabomAM bahAra vastravihIna yuvatIonA AkarSaka phoTA mUkavAmAM AvyA hoya che, paNa praveza phI ApIne tame aMdara dAkhala thAva tyAre tyAM nRtya karanAra nagna yuvatIo nathI hotI, guMDAo hoya che je tamane mArIne tamAruM badhuM paDAvI le che. alabatta, Ano artha e nathI ke ahIMnI badhI ja nAiTaklabo kharAba che. keTalIka ghaNI sArI paNa che ane jovA jevI che. tame badhAM jo grupa-bukiMga karAvo to mAre jayAM oLakhANa che te klabamAM tamane praveza-kSamAM DiskAunTa apAvI zakIza. tyAM sitteka mArka (jarmana calaNa) le che, paNa ApaNI pAsethI vyakti dITha pacAsa mArka leze ane eka Drinka maphata Apaze. huM pote tamArI sAthe AvIza ane tamane kaMI takalIpha na paDe te huM joIza. tamArI icchA hoya to nakkI karajo. huM rAtre ATha vAge tamArA phonanI rAha joIza. jemane AvavuM hoya te pahelAM vALu karI le. hoTelathI ApaNe cAlatAM jaIzuM, phakta ATha-dasa miniTano rasto che." * seTa paulI ane nAiTaklabonI vAta AvI eTale amArAmAM khaLabhaLATa macI gayo. basamAMthI UtarI hoTelanA laoNnjamAM ame beThAM tyAre paNa mAMhomAMhe A ja carcA cAlI. amArA grupanAM badhAM ja strIpuruSo lagabhaga pacAsanI uparanI uMmaranAM hatAM. keTalAka puruSo ekalA hatA, keTalAka sajoDe hatA ane keTalIka mahilAo ekalI hatI. ekalA puruSomAMthI cha-sAta puruSoe tarata ja bedhaDaka potAno nirNaya jAhera karI dIdho : "tame

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seTa polI game te carcA karo, ame to nAITaklabamAM javAnA eTale javAnA." sajoDe - AvelA keTalAka puruSone javAnI IcchA hatI, paraMtu teo jhaTa potAnI IcchA vyakta karatA nahotA. keTalIka mahilAoe potAnA patine kahI dIdhuM : "khabaradAra che, jo tame nAiTaklabamAM gayA to !" meM mArA niyama anusAra mAro mata badhAMne spaSTa jaNAvI dIdho : "mane A kAryakramamAM rasa nathI. huM temAM AvavAno nathI, mATe tamArA grupamAM mAruM nAma noMdhazo nahi." madrAsathI AvelI mahilA DokTare UMcA svare badhAne saMbodhIne kahyuM, "paNa A kAryakramamAM ApaNe badhAMe javAnI jarUra zI che ? ApaNe badhAM moTI uMmaranAM chIe ane keTalAkane to chokarAMne ghare chokarAM che. ApaNe badhAMe bhAratanuM nAma bagADavuM che ? ApaNI bhAratIya saMskRtino to jarA vicAra karo." bIjI ekalI AvelI eka mahilA zikSikAe mane vinaMtI karatAM kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, tame prophesara cho; tame badhAMne samajAvo ne ke A kAryakramamAM ApaNe koIe javAnI jarUra nathI." pachI eNe pote ja badhAnI sAme pharIne moTethI kahyuM, "ApaNe badhAM atyAre ja nakkI karIe ke koIe nAiTaklabamAM javAnuM nathI. ApaNe ApaNA bhAratanI ane ApaNI saMskRtinI sArI chApa pADavA AvyAM chIe ke kharAba ? amArA jevI ekalI AvelI mahilA nAiTaklabamAM Ave to kevI sthiti thAya eno to jarA vicAra karo." bIjI eka mahilAe emAM sAda purAvyo. potAnA pati sAthe AvelI keTalIka mahilAoe A vAtane jhIlI lIdhI ane koIe javAnuM nathI evo prabaLa sUra pravartAvyo. sajoDe AvelA puruSo to bicArA cUpa hatA. keTalAkano Agraha hato eTale meM paNa thoDAkane samajAvyA ane mahilAone meM kahyuM ke "tame makkama rahezo to A bAbatamAM saphaLa thazo." ame DAiniMga haoNlamAM jamavA gayAM. amArA Tura-kanDakTare dareka Tebala para pharIne badhAno chevaTano javAba mAgI lIdho. pelA chasAta ekalA AvelA puruSo sivAya badhAMnI nA AvI. e puruSoe kahyuM ke pote ekalA potAnI meLe koI paNa nAiTaklabamAM cAlyA jaze, mATe gAIDa yuvatIne Teliphona karIne jaNAvavAnI koI jarUra nathI. jamIne ame sau potapotAnI rUmamAM cAlyAM gayAM. AkhA divasanA pravAsano thAka lAgyo hato eTale huM to vahelo UMghI gayo.

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pAsaporTanI pAMkhe bIje divase savAre nAstA mATe DAiniMga holamAM ame pahoMcyAM tyAre nAiTaklabanI ja carcA cAlatI hatI. meM bAjumAM beThelA bhAIone pUchyuM, haju paNa e ja carcA cAle che ?" tyAM eka mitre kahyuM, "A to gaI kAle rAtre amane badhAne nAiklabano je anubhava thayo tenI vAta ame karIe chIe." "mane banAvatA to nathI ne ?" meM pUchyuM. nA, sAcI vAta che. ApaNe badhAM jamIne potapotAnI rUmamAM gayAM. daramiyAna ApaNA phonanI rAha joyA pachI ApaNI jarmana gAiDa yuvatI pote ja hoTelamAM AvI pahoMcI. eka pachI eka badhAMno phonathI saMparka karI laoNnjamAM bolAvI, samajAvI, eNe ghaNAMbadhAMne ekaThA karyA. sajoDe AvelAM pati-patnIne paNa teNe Agraha karIne sAthI lIdhAM." ane bhAratIya saMskRtivALAM pelAM leDI DaoNkTara ane zikSikA ?" kutUhalathI meM pUchyuM. hA, e badhAM paNa amArI sAthe joDAyAM. badhAMmAM mokhare e hatAM. jarmana gAIDe sauthI pahelAM emane ja sAdhyo. tamAro ane tamArA jevA bIjA traNa jaNano ame jANIjoIne saMparka na karyo, kAraNa ke ethI amArI vAta bagaDe evo bhaya hato. vaLI ame jANatAM hatAM ke tame to koI paNa saMjogomAM amArI sAthe AvavAnA ja nathI." pelAM DaoNkTara mahilA bacAvapUrvaka koIkane kahetAM hatAM ke "ApaNe to mAtra kutUhalathI jovA gayAM hatAM. ApaNe to chokarAne ghare chokarAM che. ApaNa kaMI thoDA juvAniyAnI jema kAmavAsanAthI jovA gayAM hatAM ? ApaNA karatAM uMmare ghaNAM moTAM evAM yuropiyana ane amerikana DosADosIo paNa keTalAM badhAM AvyAM hatAM ?" cAnAstA pachI ame badhAM amArA bAkI rahelA nagaradarzananA kAryakrama mATe basamAM UpaDyAM. sAMje pAchAM AvyAM. rUmamAM jaI, kalAka ArAma karI, hAtha-moM dhoI ame DAiniMga rUmamAM jamavA mATe pahoMcyAM. pelI pAMca ekalI mahilAo haju AvI nahotI. dhIme dhIme vAta AvI ke teo jamavAnI nathI. nAiTaklabamAM gaI che. amane badhAne Azcarya thayuM. bIje divase eraporTa javA mATe ame basamAM beThAM tyAre pAchI e carcA cAlI. bIjI vAra pote nAiTaklabamAM gayAM teno bacAva karatAM hoziyArI ane abhimAnapUrvaka pelAM mahilA zikSikAe kahyuM, "pelI

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seTa paulI jarmanagAIDa ApaNane badhAne banAvI gaI. eNe ghaNuM kamizana rAkhyuM hatuM. je nAiTaklabamAM ApaNe pacAsa mArkanI praveza-phI ApIne parama divase gayAM hatAM te ja nAiTaklabamAM gaI kAle amane trIsa mArkamAM besADyAM hatAM. ApaNane bArgeina karatAM AvaDavuM joIe." amArAmAMthI eka puruSe e mahilAne saMbhaLAvavA kahyuM, "tame trIsa mArkamAM jaI AvyAM, paNa ame cAra jaNa e ja nAiTaklabamAM vIsa mArkamAM gayA hatA. vaLI amane eka nahi paNa be Driksa maphata ApavAmAM AvyAM hatAM." e sAMbhaLI mahilA zikSikAnuM moTuM paDI gayuM. basamAM zAMti prasarI rahI. tyAM to amArI basa seTa paulI vistAramAMthI pasAra thaI. badhAMe joyelI moTAM posTaravALI e nAiTaklaba dekhAI eTale AMgaLI cIMdhIne keTalAMke kahyuM, "A rahI ApaNI nAiTaklaba." e joIne pote chetarAyAno keTalAMkane aphasosa thayo hato. keTalAMka jarmana gAIDane gALo bhAMDatAM hatAM. paisA bhale game teTalA thayA paNa Avo anubhava bhAratamAM kyAM ApaNane maLavAno hato e vicAre keTalAMka ekabIjAne AzvAsana ApatAM hatAM. saMta paoNlanA nAmanI kevI bhayaMkara viDaMbanA hembargamAM thaI che tenA vicAre huM caDI gayo hato. pA-7

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25 jipsI sAthe phoTo hoMgakoMga eTale cInAonuM zahera. aMgrejoe jyArathI ene potAnA tAbAmAM lIdheluM tyArathI bAkInA cIna karatAM enI bhAta badalAI gayelI. sAmyavAdI cInAoe cAMgakAI zekane dUra karI samagra cInano kabajo lIdho tyAre paNa hoMgakoMgane teo aDyA nahi. chellAM keTalAMka varSomAM hoMgakoMganI vadhatI jatI vastIne lakSamAM laI cIne hoMgakoMgane pANIno puravaTho Apyo che ane thoDI jamIna paNa ApI che. hoMgakoMga e baMdara che. nAnakaDA TApuo para vaseluM zahera che. kAuluna ane hoMgakoMga e enA be mukhya TApuo che. eka TApu parathI bIjA TApu para javA mATe thoDI thoDI vAre sTImara maLe che. have to bhUgarbha (athavA jalagarbha) rasto paNa thayo che. samudranI nIce lagabhaga sittera phUTa UMDe sudhI jato ane baMne TApuone joDato rasto Akho divasa moTaragADIothI satata dhamadhame che. hoMgakoMgamAM AyAta-jakAta nathI. 'DyUTI phrI' zahera hovAne kAraNe duniyAbharano mAla roja ahIM Ave che ane roja ahIM kharIdI karanArA videzIo paNa UmaTe che. 'zaoNparsa pereDAijha' tarIke hoMgakoMga eTalA mATe oLakhAya che. alabatta, sastuM kharIdavAnI dhUnamAM nIkaLelA mANaso nakalI mAlathI ahIM eTalA ja chetarAya che. hoMgakoMgamAM pharavA mATe TAyagara bAma gArDana, ozana pArka vagere suMdara sthaLo che. A uparAMta tenI TUrisTa kaMpanIo pravAsIone paMdareka mAila dUra AvelI cInI sarahada jovA laI jAya che. cInI sarahada mATenA A pravAsamAM huM ane mAro mitra joDAI gayA. alabatta, sarahada jovAmAM koI navInatAnI apekSA na hatI, paraMtu e nimitte zahera bahAranI cInI duniyA jovAnuM AkarSaNa hatuM. amArI basamAM dezadezanA pravAsIo hatA. amArI basa hoMgakoMganA madhya bhAgamAMthI nIkaLI gAmaDAMo tarapha cAlavA lAgI. hoMgakoMgamAM keTalAka vistAromAM zrImaMtAI dekhAI, paraMtu gAmaDAMomAM to narI garIbI ja hatI.

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99 jipsI sAthe phoTo nisteja caherAvALA mANaso cIMtharehAla dazAmAM gaMdAM paDAomAM rahetAM najare paDatAM hatAM. temanAM AvakanAM sAdhano najIvAM hatAM. bhAratamAM ane bIje gharanI pAchaLa vADAmAM jema zAkabhAjI ugADAtAM hoya che tema ahIM keTalAMka gharonI pAse, ApaNe tyAM baMgALanAM ke bihAranAM keTalAMka gAmaDAMomAM hoya che tema, eka nAnuM khAbociyuM hoya che ane temAMthI teo mAchalAMo pakaDatAM hoya che. mAchalI e A taraphanA cInAono mukhya khorAka che. thoDI vAre amArI basa cInI sarahada pAse AvI pahoMcI. ame badhAM UtaryA. amArI gAIDa yuvatIe kahyuM, "sarahada sArI rIte jovI hoya to pAsenI TekarI upara jAo. tyAMthI sarasa dekhAya che." ame badhAM e bAju cAlyAM. . ame TekarI caDhI rahevA AvyAM tyAre tyAM rastAnI eka bAjue eka vRddha mANasa Ubho hato. jipsI jevo te dekhAto hato. teNe AkhA zarIre kALAM kapaDAM paheryA hatAM. mAthe paNa kALI cInI TopI paherI hatI. cAreka phUTanI tenI UMcAI hatI. AMkho taddana jhINI hatI. Ameya cInAonI AMkha jhINI hoya che. caherA upara ghaNI karacalIo hatI. zveta lAMbI dADhI ane TUMkI mUcha hatI. nevuMthI vadhAre uMmara haze ema lAge. pravAsIone jotAM ja e hAtha lAMbo karIne Ubho rahyo. bhIkha mAgavAno A eno rojano dhaMdho haze, kAraNa ke ahIM roja seMkaDo videzI pravAsIo Ave che. enI sthiti joI mane dayA AvI. mArA khIsAmAMthI eka sikko kADhI ene ApavA huM gayo. eNe mArA mitrane IzAro karyo ke phoTo pADo. mane thayuM ke jipsIne phoTo paDAvavAnI icchA che to. bhale eka phoTo levAye. ahIM AvA jipsIo che enI ApaNane paNa yAdagIrI raheze. jipsInI pAse huM Ubho rahyo ane mArA mitre phoTo pADyo. jevI cAMpa dabAvI ke tarata jisI mArA mitra tarapha dhasyo. teno kemerA pakaDI lIdho. acAnaka A zuM thaI gayuM te samaja paDI nahi. enI bhASA ame samajIe nahi ane amArI bhASA e samaje nahi. kaMIka rakajhaka thavA lAgI. e paisA mAge che ema dekhAyuM. eTalAmAM tyAMthI pasAra thatA eka sthAnika cInI sajjane kahyuM, enI sAthe phoTo paDAvavAnA tamAre paisA ApavA paDaze, roja navA-navA AvatA pravAsIo pAsethI A rIte e paisA paDAve che. A eno dhaMdho che." ame eka DaoNlara Apyo, paraMtu te mAnyo nahi ane amAro kemerA 'choDe nahi. chevaTe be DaoNlara ApavA paDyA. jyAM videzI pravAsIonI avarajavara hoya che tyAM AvA jipsIo,

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100 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe bAvAo, phakIro phoTo paDAvavAnA paisA letA hoya che. mane nepALano prasaMga yAda Avyo. kAThamaMDumAM nAka ane moTuM mATInAM DhephAM vaDe baMdha karI, bhabhUtI lagAvI bajAramAM cAlyA jatA eka laMgoTiyA bAvA sAthe phoTo paDAvavAnI IcchA eka jarmana yuvatIne thaI. eNe mane phoTo pADI ApavA mATe vinaMtI karI. potAno kemerA barAbara goThavIne eNe mane Apyo. meM cAMpa dabAvI ke tarata ja e bAvAe te yuvatI pAsethI dasa rUpiyA jabarajastIthI paDAvyA hatA. ajANyA pravAsIo pAsethI paisA paDAvavAnI bAvA, phakIra ke * bhikhArIonI A paNa eka tarakIba hoya che. skaoNTalaeNnDamAM paNa pravAsanAM keTalAMka sthaLe kilTano pozAka paherI begapAIpa vagADatA mANaso potAnI sAthe phoTo paDAvavAnA paisA letA hoya che. A rIte jipsI sAthe phoTo paDAvavAnuM to moMghuM paDe." mArA mitre aphasosa karatAM kahyuM. koI vakhata AvuM bane paNa kharuM. jyAre jyAre jisI sAtheno phoTo ApaNe joIzuM tyAre pharajiyAta ApavA paDelA A be DaoNlaranuM ApaNane smaraNa thaze.' meM hasatAM hasatAM kahyuM. hoMgakoMgathI ame siMgApura gayA. siMgApuramAM kemerAno rola dhovA mATe Apyo. jipsI sAtheno phoTo jovAnI utsukatA hatI, paraMtu rola dhovAIne Avyo tyAre pAMtrIsa phoTAomAMthI eka paNa phoTo Avyo nahoto. amane navAI lAgI. phoTogrApharane ame kAraNa pUchyuM. ene paNa navAI lAgI. pachI eNe prazna karyo, "tame kyAMya kasTamamAMthI pasAra thayA cho ?' tarata amane yAda AvyuM ke hoMgakoMgathI vimAnamAM besatAM pahelAM kasTamamAM amAre amAro sAmAna eksa-re mazInamAMthI pasAra karavAno hato, ane sAmAnamAM kemerA hato te judo kADhI levAnuM ame cUkI gayA hatA. eTale Akho rola eNksare mazInamAM eksapojha thaI gayo hato. jipsI sAtheno phoTo amArI pAse nathI, paNa e prasaMganI smRti to hajI eTalI ja tAjI che.

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TIkITIkIne jonArA laMDanamAM dAMtanA DaoNkaTara zAMtilAla zAha ane temanAM patnI lalitAbahene amane jamavAnuM nimaMtraNa ApyuM hatuM. jamyA pachI emanI sAthe vinDasara kesala ane saphArI pArka jovAno amAro kAryakrama hato. mArAM patnI ane dIkarI, devacaMdabhAI caMderiyA tathA emanAM dharmapatnI puSpAbahena vagere maLI bAreka jaNa ame hatAM. - be gADImAM ame badhAM UpaDyAM. saphArI pArkamAM siha chUTA rAkhavAmAM AvyA che. pArkanA eka daravAjethI thoDI thoDI vAre eka pachI eka gADI choDavAmAM Ave ane bIje daravAjethI te bahAra nIkaLI jAya. gADInA kAca caDhAvelA rAkhavA paDe. baMne cheDe ane vacce paNa baMdUkadhArI rakSako UbhelA hoya, jethI siha acAnaka koInA upara tarApa mAre to temane bacAvI levAya. ame pArkamAM dAkhala thayAM. keTalAka siMha Amatema pharatA hatA, to keTalAka ALasunI jema bagAsuM khAtAM beThA hatA. siMha chUTA hatA ane ame purAyelAM hatAM, eTale siMhanI sAva pAsethI ame pasAra thaI zakatAM. gADI UbhI rAkhavAnI manAI hatI. paraMtu sAva maMda gatie calAvI zakAtI ke jethI siMha barAbara joI zakAya. eka siMhanI pAsethI ame pasAra thayAM tyAre pAMceka phUTane aMtare UbhelA te siMha mATe amArAmAM aMdara aMdara vAta cAlI : "juone, kevo TIkITIkIne te ApaNane joyA kare che ?" - * "jevuM ApaNane lAge che evuM siMhane paNa lAgatuM ja haze ne ke A badhAM loko keTaluM TIkITIkIne mArI sAme joI rahyAM che !" eke kahyuM. "thoDIka miniTamAM je pasAra thavAnuM hovAthI sau ekITase siMhane joI levAno prayatna kare te svAbhAvika che." bIjAe kahyuM. saphArI pArka joIne ame vinDasara kesalamAM gayAM. killAmAM mahelano thoDoka ja bhAga Aje amane jovA maLavAno hato, kAraNa ke rANI elijhAbethe Aje tyAM mukAma karyo hato. mahelamAM javA mATe eka DhALa caDhavAno hato. ame badhAM dhIme dhIme DhALa caDhavA lAgyAM.

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102 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe ame AgaLa cAlatAM hatAM. amArI sAthenI baheno dhIme dhIme pAchaLa pAchaLa AvatI hatI. thoDeka AgaLa cAlatAM rastAmAM barAbara vacce UbhelA be aMgrejone meM joyA. teo mane bolAvavAnI utsukatAthI mArI sAme najara meLavIne hasatA hatA. huM vicAramAM paDyo, kAraNa ke temane huM oLakhato na hato. temane kyAMya maLyo houM evuM paNa kazuM yAda AvatuM nahotuM. manamAM thayuM ke kadAca mArAM vyAkhyAnomAM keTalAka aMgrejo Ave che temAMnA A koIka haze, eTale mane bolAvI rahyA lAge che. temanI pAse pahoMcatAM meM temane "halo' kahyuM, paraMtu mane koI pratyuttara maLyo nahi. UlaTAnuM evuM lAgyuM ke teo hasIne mAMhomAMhe kaMIka babaDatA hatA, jANe mArI majAka na karatA hoya ! huM bhoMTho paDyo. mane thayuM ke kadAca mane bolAvavAmAM teonI bhUla ke gerasamaja thaI haze ane teo bhoMThA paDyA haze eTale hasatA haze. huM mahelanA daravAjA pAse pahoMcI gayo. bIjA mitro paNa AvI pahoMcyA. bAkInAMnI rAha joI ame tyAM UbhA rahyA. eTalI vAramAM sAthenI baheno paNa AvI pahoMcI. teo mAMhomAMhe jorajorathI vAto karI rahI hatI. temanA avAjamAM gusso vartAto hato. temanA zabdo kAne paDyA : "kevA barAbara vacce UbhA rahIne mazkarI kare che ?" "baMne jaNa ApaNI sAme kevA TIkITIkIne jatA hatA ane aMdara aMdara hasatA hatA ? jarAya zarama nahotI AvatI." "ane rastAnI barAbara vacce jANI-joIne evI rIte UbhA rahyA hatA ke bIjAne agavaDa paDe. koIne AvatA joIne jarAya khasatA paNa nahotA." emanI vAto sAMbhaLIne meM AMgaLI cIMdhIne pUchayuM, "tame pelA be mANasonI vAta karo cho ne ? mane paNa e mANaso zaMkAspada lAgyA. pahelAM mArI sAme joIne hasavA lAgyA ane pachI meM jyAre emane bolAvyA tyAre kAMI bolyA nahi." "hA, e ja mANaso. koI badamAza jevA haze ! eka bahene kahyuM. badamAza to nathI lAgatA, paNa kaMIka vicitra jevA lAge che." meM kahyuM. iMglenDamAM sAmAnya rIte AvA puruSo hotA nathI. A to badhAMnI najare caDe ema rastAnI vaccovaca UbhA rahI bIjAone bolAvatA hoya athavA chaDecoka mazkarI karatA hoya tevA dekhAya che." bIjI eka bahene phariyAda karatAM kahyuM.

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TIkITIkIne jonArA 103 ame mahelamAM dAkhala thayAM. mahelanA khaMDonI racanA joI; rAcaracIluM joyuM; dIvAlo upara TAMgelAM prAcIna citro joyAM. aMdara eka dukAnamAMthI slAiDa, sikkA ane kArDa kharIdyAM. thoDI vAra pachI bIje daravAjethI ame bahAra nIkaLyAM. thoDuMka cAlyAM tyAM to ToLAnI jema UbhelA ghaNA badhA mANaso dekhAyA, paNa A badhA mANaso kaMIka vicitra jevA lAgyA. gheTAMo aMdaraaMdara ToLuM vaLIne UbhAM rahe tevI rIte badhA traNa-cAra jUthamAM UbhA hatA. koIka koIka to atyaMta zAMta jaNAtA hatA. teo badhA jANe koI eka jUtha ke saMsthAnA mANaso hoya tevA lAgatA hatA. teonA caherAmAM kazuMka lAkSaNika, maLatApaNuM hatuM. ame e lokone kutUhalapUrvaka nihALatAM hatAM, tyAM eka yuvatI temanI pAse dekhAI. te cakkara mAratI hatI ane kaMIka mUMjhavaNamAM hoya evI tevI dekhAtI hatI. meM ene pUchyuM, "kSamA karajo, A badhA loko koI eka ja jUthanA lAge che. badhA kyAMthI Ave che ?" e yuvatIe kahyuM, "hamaNAM maherabAnI karIne amane kaMI pUcho nahi. ame mUMjhavaNamAM chIe. amArA grupanA be mANaso khovAI gayA che." yuvatInI vAta sAMbhaLI ane A badhA mANasonuM nirIkSaNa karyuM. to tarata mane thayuM ke pelA be mazkarA lAgatA mANaso A grupanA to nahi hoya ? meM yuvatIne kahyuM, "ame mahelanI bIjI bAju be mANasone rastAmAM UbhelA joyA che. kadAca e tamArA grupanA hoya !'' mArI vAta sAcI paDI. bIjI eka yuvatI eTalAmAM e be puruSone dorIne laI AvatI hatI. teo Ama kema kare che evo prazna mArA manamAM thayo tyAM to pelI yuvatIe khulAso karatAM amane kahyuM, "A badhA moMgola che." "moMgola'' zabda sAMbhaLatAM ja badhI vAtanI spaSTatA thaI gaI. huM tarata samajI gayo ke A badhA moMgola eTale ke ardhavikasita magajavALA, ochI akkalavALA mANaso che, teo gAMDA ke cakrama nathI hotA, paraMtu magajanA apUrNa vikAsane kAraNe teomAM jhAjhI buddhi ke zakti hotI nathI. caherA upara cabarAka rekhAo dekhAtI nathI. temanI sAme dhArIdhArIne joIe to thoDI vAra pachI teo ekadama bAghA jevA lAgavA mAMDe. potAnI meLe teo bahu avarajavara karI na zake ke bahu vAtacIta paNa karI na zake. vinAkAraNe teo hasyA kare, babaDyA kare, TIkITIkIne joyA kare ane jyAM UbhA hoya tyAMthI jaladI khase nahi. temanI AMkho thoDI thoDI vAre jhINI thayA kare. temanA hAthamAM eka ke be joDI rekhAo sivAya jhAjhI A

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104 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe rekhAo na hoya. teo cIna taraphanI moMgola jAtinA nathI hotA, paNa emanI jhINI AMkhone kAraNe moMgola jevA dekhAtA hovAthI temane mATe aMgrejImAM "moMgola' zabda rUDha thaI gayo che. * pelA be mANaso AvyA ane ToLAmAM bhaLI gayA. e be mANaso koNa hatA, e jovA mATe ame najara pheravI paNa khabara paDI nahi, kAraNa ke "moMgola" prakAranA lokonA caherA ekabIjA sAthe ghaNA maLatA AvatA hoya che. vastutaH temanA caherAnI rekhAo ochA pramANamAM amuka ja rIte vikasatI hovAne kAraNe barAbara nirIkSaNa na karyuM hoya to ekane badale bIjo samajavAnI bhUla ApaNe karI besIe. pazcimanA lokonI gorI cAmaDI ane Arthika tathA vaijJAnika pragatine kAraNe ApaNA ghaNA lokone temanA pratye ahobhAvathI jovAnI, temanAthI aMjAI javAnI Teva hoya che. paraMtu ekasAthe savAso-doDhaso jeTalA yuropI moMgolone joIe to gorI cAmaDIvALA eTale ApaNA karatAM caDiyAtA evI laghutAgraMthi ApaNAmAM jo hoya to te tarata ja nIkaLI jAya.

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: siDanInI pheravela-pArTI - I. sa. 1977nA DisembaramAM osTreliyAnA siDanI zaheramAM pena (PEN) saMsthAnI koMgresamAM bhAratIya pratinidhi tarIke bhAga levA mATe huM gayo hato. siDanInI sukhyAta zaivaraoNna hoTelamAM badhA pratinidhione utAro ApavAmAM Avyo hato. ATha divasanI A pariSadamAM sAhityanA judA judA viSayo upara nibaMdho vaMcAyA. vaLI soviyeta yuniyanamAM penanuM kendra sthApavuM ke nahi ? duniyAnAM judAM judAM rASTromAM kedamAM pUravAmAM AvelA lekhakone choDAvavA mATe zuM zuM karavuM ? soviyeTa yuniyanamAMthI bhAgI chUTelA lekhakone sahAya karavA zuM zuM karavuM ? koriyAnA kavi kima jI hAne kedamAM rAkhavAmAM AvyA che te mATe jApAne chapAvelI draSabharI patrikA sAme koriyAno virodhavagere viSayo upara ghaNI garamAgarama carcAo paNa thaI. A badhI carcAomAM kyAreka AMtararASTrIya rAjakAraNa paNa DokAtuM hatuM. adhivezananA chellA divase bapore aupacArika AbhAravidhi thaI gayA pachI rAtre chello kAryakrama hato pheravela-pArTIno. A kAryakrama mATe pina-koMgresanA osTreliyana Ayojakoe jorazorathI jAherAta karI hatI. vaLI teoe garvapUrvaka kahyuM hatuM, "koMgresanI kAryavAhImAM garamAgarama carcAothI dukheluM tamAruM mAthuM haLavuM banAvavuM hoya to pheravela-pArTImAM jarUra padhArajo." A pheravaeNla-pArTI badhA mATe ADakatarI rIte pharajiyAta banI hatI, kema ke te mATe pratinidhidITha vIsa oNsTreliyana DaoNlara (eka DaoNlara barAbara dasa rUpiyA) dareka pAsethI agAuthI vasUla karI levAmAM AvyA hatA. zarAba, saMgIta ane bhojanano A kAryakrama hato. jo pahelethI tenI phI laI levAmAM AvI na hota to kadAca A kAryakramamAM upasthita rahevAnuM bahu mana na thAta. bIjA pratinidhio sAthe vicAravinimaya karatAM lAgyuM ke mAtra aupacArikatA khAtara paNa mAre hAjarI ApavI joIe. - siDanImAM je keTalAka jUnA aitihAsika vistAro haju paNa sArI rIte jALavI rAkhavAmAM AvyA che emAMno eka vistAra te ArmAila TAvarna che. iMglenDathI dezanikAlanI sajA pAmelA sAtaso bhArADI gunegAra kedIone

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106 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe sTImaramAM lAvIne aMgrejoe siDanI zahera vasAvyuM hatuM. A zaheranA vasavATano aitihAsika AraMbha AvI vicitra rIte thayo hato. zaheranI smRtirUpe e vakhatano e jUno vistAra haju paNa sArI rIte sAcavI rAkhavAmAM Avyo che. tyAM have sAhitya ane kalAnA vividha samAraMbho ane mahephilo yojAya che. chAparAMvALAM makAnomAM prAcIna vAtAvaraNa anubhavAya che. amArI A pheravelapArTI - vidAya mahephila - Agaila TAvarsa nAmanA A vistAranI eka suprasiddha prAcIna imAratamAM goThavavAmAM AvI hatI. amane badhAMne kaDaka sUcanA ApavAmAM AvI hatI ke kAryakrama rAtre barAbara ATha vAge cAla thaze ane te mATe hoTela uparathI traNa basa samayasara sADA sAta vAge UpaDI jaze, mATe koIe moDuM karavuM nahi. je moDA paDe te potAnI meLe TeksI karIne AvI pahoMce. videza pravAsamAM sarakAre ApeluM hUMDiyAmaNa karakasarathI vAparavuM paDatuM. eTale moDuM thAya to TeksInA cArapAMca DaoNlara coTe e bIke huM mArA rUmamAMthI nIce laoNnjamAM barAbara savA-sAte AvIne Ubho rahyo. bahAra rastA para joyuM to haju basa AvIne UbhI nahotI. lonjamAM koI pratinidhi dekhAtA nahotA. mane thayuM ke huM ghaNo vahelo nIce Utaryo chuM. tyAM to mane joIne risepzanisTa pUchyuM, "tame basa mATe UbhA cho ?" "hA." "basa to traNeya UpaDI gaI che." hoya nahi; haju to savAsAta vAgyA che. sADAsAte basa UpaDaze evI amane sUcanA apAI che." e vAta sAcI, paraMtu Aje pratinidhio sAta vAgatAMmAM AvIne besI gayA hatA. vaLI keTalAka sthAnika pratinidhio paNa vagara pUchaye basamAM besI gayA hatA. ethI traNeya basa pUrI bharAI gaI hatI, eTale basane moDI upADavAnuM koI kAraNa nahotuM. have je pratinidhio rahyA haze temane mATe eka basa bIjo eka phero karaze. tame beso. thoDI vAramAM ja basa Avaze." vidAya mahephila mATe ATalI badhI paDApaDI thaze evI kalpanA nahotI. eTalAmAM bIjA cAra-pAMca pratinidhio laoNnjamAM AvI pahoMcyA. traNe basa UpaDI gaI che e jANI saune Azcarya thayuM. have eka basa pAchI pharaze topaNa te lagabhaga poNAATha vAge UpaDaze ema lAgyuM. ame badhA matema AMTA mAravA lAgyA. evAmAM eka briTiza pratinidhei AvyA. teo raghavATamAM hatA. temaNe ciMtita cahere kahyuM, "basa ATalI badhI vahelI UpaDI gaI ?

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siDanInI pheravaeNla-pArTI 107 have mAre to TaeNksI karavI ja paDaze kAraNa ke mane to tyAM keTaluMka kAma soMpAyuM che. e mATe mAre samayasara pahoMcavuM jarUrI che." emaNe mane kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, huM TeksI karIne jAuM chuM. tame cAlo mArI sAthe." pachI bIjA pratinidhione uddezIne kahyuM, "tamArAmAMthI bIjA be paNa AvI zake che." meksikonI be mahilA pratinidhio tarata AvavA taiyAra thaI. bahAra nIkaLI ame cAre TeksImAM beThAM. sarasa vAto cAlI. AyojakonI AvI vyavasthA mATe TIkA thaI. TeksImAM besavA maLyuM eTale AnaMdita thaI meksikana mahilAo briTiza pratinidhinI pratyeka vAte "hA jI', 'hA jI' kahI sAda purAvatI rahI. ame Agaila TAvarsa pahoMcyAM. TeksImAMthI nIce UtaryA. TeksIvALAne paisA cUkavI briTiza pratinidhie cAlatAM cAlatAM kahyuM, "kSamA karajo. ApaNe TeksI je bhAgamAM (Share) karI che teno tamAre dareke doDhadoDha DaoNlara ApavAno che." mane thayuM ke A to kharo vANiyo nIkaLyo. paraMtu doDha DaoNlara jeTalI rakama mATe bolavuM e anucita gaNAya. pelI be meksikana mahilAone paNa gamyuM nahi. parsa kholIne potAnA bhAganA paisA temaNe ApI dIdhA, paraMtu potAno aNagamo vyakta karavA briTiza pratinidhinI vAtamAM pachI kazo rasa lIdho nahi ane aLagI thaIne kaMIka babaDatI cAlavA lAgI. TeksImAMthI UtaratI vakhate meM mITara joyuM hatuM temAM cAra DaoNlara ane dasa senTa AvyA hatA. tenI jagyAe briTiza pratinidhie amArA traNa pAsethI kula sADAcAra DaoNlara lIdhA. eTale ke pote TaeNksImAM maphata AvyA ane uparathI cAlIsa senTano phAyado karyo. A emaNe IrAdApUrvaka karyuM haze ke bhUlathI thaI gayuM haze te to koNa jANe ? kAraNa ke keTalAka videzIo moDhe hisAba karavAmAM kAcA hoya che. temAM vaLI A to kavi-lekhakanI jAta. game tema hoya, paNa temanA pratyenuM mAruM mAna UtarI gayuM. ArmAila TAvarnanA vizALa resTorAMmAM paeNna-koMgresanA badhA pratinidhio goThavAI gayA hatA. doDhaso varSa jUnA e resTorAMmAM jADAM kharabacaDAM lAkaDAnA jUnA samayanAM moTAM majabUta Tebala hatAM. besavA mATe khurazIo nahi paNa lAMbI pATalIo hatI. dAkhala thatAM ja koI prAcIna imArata che evo bhAsa thAya. huM dAkhala thayo ke tarata pena-koMgresanA maMtrI pITara AlsaTobe bUma pADI mane bolAvyo. temaNe kahyuM, "Do. zAha, ahIM Avo. eka sITa meM tamAre mATe rAkhI che. bIjA koIne besavA dIdhA nathI. zA mATe te jANo cho ?" "huM zarAba ane sigareTa nathI pIto eTalA mATe ja haze !" hasatAM hasatAM meM kahyuM, kAraNa ke pITara mArI jema zarAba ane sigareTa pItA nathI.

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108 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe "e to kharuM ja, paraMtu khAsa eTalA mATe tamane bolAvyA ke tame briTiza kaoNmanavelthanA sabhya cho. ahIM badhe tame najara karo. badhA lekhako potapotAnA rAjakIya vartuLa pramANe judA judA Tebala AsapAsa beThA che. eTale meM vicAra karyo ke ApaNe paNa briTiza kaoNmanavelthanuM juduM Tebala jamAvIe." TebalanI AsapAsa beThelA sabhyo sAme meM najara karI temAM laMDananA pena kAryAlayanI be briTiza mahilAo hatI. eka pratinidhi hato hoMgakoMgano, eka hato nyUjhIlenDano ane eka pratinidhi lekhikA hatI tAivAnanI. A vidAya-jalasAmAM bIjA dezomAMthI AvelA pratinidhio jeTalA hatA tethI vizeSa sthAnika oNsTreliyana lekhaka-lekhikAo ane niyaMtrita itara mahAnubhAvo hatAM. A badhAMnAM vastronuM avalokana karatAM eka vAta tarata najare caDatI. osTreliyAnI bahArathI AvelA pratinidhio to potAnI sAthe je becAra joDI kapaDAM lAvyA hoya te temaNe ATha-nava divasamAM paherI lIdhAM hoya. eTale teo badhAM paricita vastromAM hatAM. paraMtu sthAnika sabhyo ane nimaMtrito to badhAM navAM navAM vastromAM susajja hatAM. emAM paNa mahilAo to jANe phaeNzana-pareDa hoya tema camakabhabhakavALAM vastrI ane ghareNAM paherIne tathA puSkaLa meka-apa karIne AvI hatI. badhAM Tebalo upara judI judI jAtanA dArUnA moTA moTA jaga tathA soDA ane barapha mUkavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. jene je pasaMda paDe te ane jeTalo pIvo hoya teTalo dArU pI zake. badhAMe te pIvo zarU karyo hato. meM pATalI para besIne kokokolA mATe mAgaNI karI. veiTare kahyuM, "kokAkolA ekasTrAmAM gaNAya che. enA eka glAsa mATe tamAre eka DaoNlara judo Apavo paDaze." meM kahyuM, "zA mATe ? dArU bilakula pIvAno nathI. ene badale kokAkolA mAguM chuM." thoDI rakajhaka pachI ene mArI vAta samajAI. mAre mATe kokAkolA AvyuM. sADAATha vAge jAherAta thatAM badhAM potAnI pleTa laIne bhojananI vAnagIo levA mATe lAinamAM UbhAM rahyAM. A vAnagIomAMthI mane khape evI vAnagIo khAsa nahotI. bhUkhyA rahevA mATe manathI taiyAra thaIne ja huM Avyo hato. alabatta, phaLamAMthI meM sapharajana ane saMtarAM lIdhAM. badhA potapotAnA Tebala para pAchAM pharyA ane jamavA lAgyAM. "A vidAya-samAraMbhamAM khAsa koI kAryakrama che ?" meM pITarane pUchyuM. "khAsa kaMI nathI. basa dArU pIo, khAo, vAto karo, nAca karo ane javuM hoya tyAre jAo. eTalo ja kAryakrama lAge che." pITare kahyuM.

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siDanInI pheravela-pArTI 109 * sAmAnya rIte duniyAmAM badhe ja AvI mahephilomAM Avo ja kAryakrama hoya che, paNa ahIM vyavasthA, gaurava ane dRSTino abhAva hato. badhAM khAtAM gayAM; dArU pItAM gayAM; sigAreTanA dhumADAthI vAtAvaraNa bharAtuM gayuM. saMgItamAM to mAtra eka Drama jorajorathI basUruM DrAMuM DrAMuM vAgyA karatuM hatuM. te paNa prAcIna samayanuM vAtAvaraNa jamAvavA ja haze ema lAgyuM. jema samaya jato gayo tema koIkoIne nazo caDato gayo. emanA avAja paNa moTA thavA lAgyA. jorazorathI vAto cAlavA lAgI. koI koI barADA pADavA lAgyA, akAraNa aTTahAsyo thavA lAgyAM. koI koI nAcavA lAgyA, dhamAla dhamAla jevuM ghoMghATiyuM vAtAvaraNa thatuM gayuM. evAmAM eka zvetakazI vayovRddha jApAnI lekhaka resTorAMmAM ekalA ekalA AMTA mAravA lAgyA hatA. lAMbI dADhI, jApAnI kimonono paheraveza ane sADAcAra phUTanI UMcAIne kAraNe temanA tarapha tarata badhAnuM dhyAna gayuM. emanuM moTuM paDI gayuM hatuM. koIke kaMI pUchyuM eTale te DUsakAM bharavA lAgyA. zuM thayuM che tenI khabara na paDI, kAraNa ke temane jApAnI bhASA sivAya bIjA bhASA AvaDatI nahotI. jApAnI lekhakonI zodhAzodha cAlI, paNa koI tyAM nahotA. paDozI TebalanI pratinidhioe mAhitI ApI ke A vRddha lekhakanA bIjA jApAnI lekhaka mitro dArUno vadhu paDato nazo caDatAM eka pachI eka cAlyA gayA hatA ane pote sAva ekalA paDI gayA hatA. tarata sthAnika mahilA pratinidhio temano hAtha pakaDIne potAnA Tebala pAse laI gaI ane besADyA. DhIlA paDelA e lekhakanI AMkhamAMthI AMsu sAratAM hatAM. badhAMe emane chAnA rAkhyA. emane hoTela para pahoMcADavAnI vyavasthA thaI. eka tamAzA jevI ghaTanA thaI gaI. alabatta, Ama banavAnuM kAraNa AkhA kAryakramanuM Ayojana DhaMgadhaDA vagaranuM hatuM te hatuM. nahi koI vyavasthita kAryakrama ke nahi pratinidhi lekhakonI Ayojako taraphathI pUrI saMbhALa. yajamAna oNsTreliyana pratinidhio judA judA dezanA pratinidhio vacce vaheMcAI javAne badale potAnuM ja juduM ToLuM jamAvIne beThA hatA. lekhakonI AvI AMtararASTrIya mahephilamAM paNa taMga AMtararASTrIya rAjakIya vAtAvaraNa anubhavAtuM hatuM. amArA Tebala upara huM ane pITara svastha hatA. bAkInA pAMcene nazo caDato jato hato. emanA bolavAmAM have DhaMgadhaDo rahyo nahoto. huM kaMTALyo hato. amane hoTela para laI janArI basa rAtanA agiyAra vAgye AvavAnI hatI. haju to sADAnava vAgyA hatA. dhIme dhIme keTalAka javA lAgyA hatA, paNa je jAya te potAne kharce. TeksInA paisA bacAvavA ke A " WWW.jainelibrary.org

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110 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe kAryakramamAM vadhu besIne mAthuM pakavavuM - e be vikalpomAMthI eka pasaMda karavAno hato. huM bahAra nIkaLyo. tyAM laoNbImAM bAMgalAdezanA pratinidhi zAnUna hakka UbhA hatA. meM pUchyuM, "kema ahIM UbhA cho ?" "kyArano kaMTALI gayo chuM. koIno saMgAtha maLe to hoTela para javuM che." to cAlo, huM TeksI karuM ja chuM. huM paNa kaMTALI gayo chuM. pArTI AvI haze enI kalpanA nahi. nahi to ahIM Avata ja nahi." ApaNA pahelethI vIsa DaoNlara kApI lIdhA eTale AvavAnuM mana thAya. paNa ATalI sarasa AMtararASTrIya koMgresa yojIne enI chApa enA A chellA kAryakrama dvArA teoe bagADI nAkhI." meM kahyuM, "alabatta, meM mAnyuM hatuM ke kadAca Ayojakono potAno khyAla ja AvA kAryakramano haze. paraMtu A kAryakrama pratye keTalAka sthAnika osTreliyana pratinidhioe pote paNa potAno aNagamo vyakta karyo che, e parathI mane khAtarI thaI ke AyojanamAM ja kyAMka khAmI che. kadAca sthAnika pratinidhi kAryakartAone kAryanI vyaktigata javAbadArI soMpavAnA abhAvane kAraNe tathA vigatonI pUrI cakAsaNI vagara bArobAra resTorAMvALAne sIdho konTrAkTa ApI devAne kAraNe paNa Ama banyuM hoya." hakke kahyuM, "oNsTreliyAnA A jUnAmAM jUnA vistAramAM pArTI yojIne aitihAsika vAtAvaraNano teo ApaNane anubhava karAvavA mAgatA haze." meM hasatAM kahyuM, "jo ema hoya to te sAcuM che, kAraNa ke jUnA vakhatanI o resTorAMmAM rIDhA gunegAronI mahephila yojAtI hatI. e mahephila jyAre jAme tyAre te kevI hoya enuM anumAna AjanI pArTI parathI karI zakAya." kedamAM purAyelA lekhako vize Aje ApaNe garamAgarama carcA karI, paraMtu kedI lekhakonI pArTI kevI hoya teno pratyakSa anubhava Ayojakoe ApaNane karAvyo." TeksI karIne ame hoTela para AvyA. bIje divase khabara paDI ke sADAdasa vAge to Ayojako sahita badhA ja sabhyoe tyAMthI vidAya laI lIdhI hatI. badhAne hoTela para mUkavA mATe je traNa basa agiyAra vAge bolAvavAmAM AvI hatI te badhI khAlI pAchI cAlI gaI hatI. jatI vakhate basamAM besavA mATe paDApaDI hatI ane pAchA pharatI vakhate koI basamAM besanAra nahotuM ! basanA khAlIpaNAe pheravaeNla-pArTI mATe abhiprAya ApI dIdho hato.

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zAkAhArI sUpa videzamAM mAMsAhArIone potAno AhAra meLavavAmAM bahu takalIpha paDatI nathI. temane takalIpha hoya to te potAnA svAdanI athavA potAnA dezanI vAnagIo meLavavAmAM hoya che. zAkAhArIone ane temAM paNa jainone potAne khape evo AhAra meLavavAnI takalIpha ethI ghaNI vadhAre hoya che. pazcimanA dezomAM zAkAhAranI pravRttino pracAra eka saikAthI paNa jUno che. eTale tyAM ghaNAM resTorAMmAM nokarI zAkAhAra vize jANatA hoya che. eziyAnA dezomAM khAsa karIne dUra pUrvanA dezomAM samagra prajA mAMsAhArI che. tyAM zAkAhAra vize bahu loko jANatA hotA nathI. alabatta, chellA betraNa dAyakAmAM moTAMmoTAM zaheromAM phAivasTAra hoTelo thavAne lIdhe zAkAhAra vize tyAM keTalAka loko jANatA thayA che. huM pahelI vAra jApAna gayo tyAre TokyonI suprasiddha nyU oTAnI hoTelamAM Utaryo hato. mArA eka jApAnI mitra sAthe hoTelanI resTorAMmAM huM jamavA gayo hato. eka hajArathI vadhu rUmavALI, sattara mALanI e hoTelamAM cha to moTAMmoTAM resTorAM hatAM - koI jApAnI paddhatinAM, koI cInI rItarasamanAM, to koI pazcimanI DhabanAM. ame pazcimanI DhabanA eka resTorAMmAM gayA hatA. huM custa zAkAhArI che e mArA mitre jApAnI bhASAmAM resTorAMnA menejarane samajAvyuM hatuM. resTorAMnuM menakArDa joIne makAInA zAkAhArI sUpa mATe meM orDara Apyo. paraMtu pachIthI vicAra Avyo ke zAkAhArI vAnagImAM to ghaNI bheLaseLa thatI hoya che. keTalIka vAra IMDAM paNa temAM vaparAtAM hoya che. A cokhavaTa meM mArA mitrane karI. temaNe e vize veITarane jApAnI bhASAmAM samajAvyuM paraMtu baMnenA caherAnA hAvabhAva joIne mane lAgatuM hatuM ke veiTara barAbara samajyo nathI ane mAtra hAe hA kare che. AvI saMdigdha sthitimAM mAre mATe sAro rasto e hato ke e supa mAre khAvo nahi. meM mArA mitrane kahyuM, "mAro sUpano oNrDara kensala karAvo." emaNe kensala karavA mATe veITarane kahyuM, paraMtu veiTare jaIne e vAta menejarane karI eTale menejara veiTara sAthe Tebala pAse Avyo. maeNnejare kahyuM, sUpa zAkAhArI ja che, mATe tame oNrDara kensala karAvo nahi." Use Only

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11 2 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe paraMtu mAro prazna jarA judo hato. meM kahyuM, "sUpa zAkAhArI che ke nahi tenI khAtarI mane kevI rIte thAya ? AvI zaMkAbharI sthitimAM huM sUpa na lauM te ja mArA mATe ISTa che. mATe sUpano oNrDara kensala karyo che te ja barAbara che." * oNrDara kensala karavAnA AgrahathI veiTarane gamyuM nathI tema mane lAgyuM. alabatta AvI moTI hoTelamAM roja keTalAya orDara kensala thatA hoya eTale tenI koIne paDI na hoya. paraMtu huM sUpa vagarano rahIza enuM ene duHkha hatuM. huM makkama hato eTale menejara ane veiTara cAlyA gayA. paraMtu thoDI vAre veiTara eka rasoiyAne laIne amArA Tebala pAse AvI pahoMcyo. AvI hoTelomAM veiTara karatAM rasoiyAno paheraveza judo hoya che. svaccha ane istrIbaMdha kaDaka sapheda kapaDAM ane mAthe sapheda lAMbI UMcI TopIthI e tarata parakhAI gayo. resTorAMnA DAIniMga haoNlamAM rasoiyo jAte Ave evuM sAmAnya rIte bane nahi. ethI AsapAsanAM TebalavALAo amArI sAme tAkI rahyAM. sUpanI e ja bhAMjagaDa cAlyA karI. huM mArA mitrane aMgrejImAM samajAvuM ane teo ene jApAnImAM samajAve. sUpa mAre joIto nathI e ja mAro nirNaya makkamatAthI meM pharIthI jaNAvyo. teo baMne cAlyA gayA, paraMtu temanA caherA upara nirAzA hatI. eTalAmAM thoDI vAramAM veiTara ane rasoiyo pharI AvI pahoMcyA. veITaranA hAthamAM camacA sahita pleTa hatI ane rasoIyAnA hAthamAM eka bAula hato. emAM te sUpa laIne Avyo hato. te jApAnImAM bolato hato. mArA mitre teno bhAvArtha mane kahyo ke "tamane namUnAno sUpa batAvavA mATe rasoiyo laI Avyo che. tame cAkhI juo. tamane zAkAhArI lAge to ja tame lo." sAmAnya rIte rasoiyo ATalI tasdI le nahi ane AvI moTI hoTelomAM evI eTikeTa paNa nahi. mArA mitre kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, rasoiyo AuTa oNpha dha ve jaIne tamArA mATe ATaluM badhuM kare che. mATe tame have A sUpa cAkhI to juo." ' kahyuM, "mane je khAvAno vAMdho che e cAkhavAno paNa vAMdho che. vAnagI zAkAhArI ke mAMsAhArI che te jANavA mATe paNa amArAthI cAkhI zakAya nahi." - rasoIyo ane veiTara mArA mATe tasdI letA hatA te mATe meM temano khUba khUba AbhAra mAnyo ane mArI muzkelIo mitra dvArA premathI temane

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pAkane ane zavyo. te mArA gayA. thoLa zAkAhArI sUpa 113 samajAvI. kaMIka vicAra karatAM teo baMne cAlyA gayA. thoDI vAre resTorAMno menejara pAcho amArI pAse Avyo. te mArA mitrane kaheto hato ke "amArA mAnavaMtA grAhakane ame saMtoSa ApI zakatA nathI te mATe ame dilagIra chIe, paraMtu temane vAMdho na hoya to mArI eka vinaMtI mAnya rAkho." jApAnI bhASAmAM zuM bolAya che te badhuM huM samajuM nahi, paraMtu mArA mitra UbhA thaI gayA ane mane kahyuM, "cAlo." huM dvidhAmAM paDyo. A resTorAMne badale bIjI koI resTorAMmAM javAnI vAta to nathI ne ? mArA mitro UbhA thaI menejaranI pAchaLa cAlavA lAgyA. enI pAchaLa huM paNa cAlavA lAgyo. eTalAmAM veITara ane rasoIyo paNa amArI sAthe joDAyA. resTorAMmAM beThelAM bIjA mANaso kutuhalathI amArA saraghasane joI rahyAM. koI moTo prazna Ubho thayo hovo joIe ane ame koI bahu ja gaMbhIra phariyAda karI hovI joIe ke jethI A badhI dhamAla thaI rahI che ema teone lAgatuM haze evuM teonA caherA parathI vAMcI zakAtuM hatuM. cAlatAM cAlatAM, Amatema vaLAMko letAM letAM. ame eka jagyAe AvIne UbhA rahyA. e hatuM resTorAMnuM atyanta vizALa rasoDuM. cAre bAju ghaNA rasoiyAo jAtajAtanI vAnagIo taiyAra karatA hatA. pelo rasoiyo jyAM sUpa banAvato hato tyAM amane laI gayo. makAInA e sUpamAM zuM zuM nAkhavAmAM Ave che ane kevI rIte banAvavAmAM Ave che te eNe amane pratyakSa batAvyuM. zuddha zAkAhArI ane mane khape tevo te sUpa hato. meM jyAre hA' pADI ane kahyuM ke "A sUpa huM jarUra khAI zakIza" tyAre teo badhAnA caherA upara AnaMdanI ekadama camaka dekhAI. potAnI mahenata lekhe lAgI hoya ema teone lAgyuM. meM paNa temano AbhAra mAnatAM jApAnImAM kahyuM, "domAM ArigAto, gojhAimAstA." bAbata nAnI hatI. eka mANasa sUpa khAya ke na khAya tenI AvaDI moTI phAivasTAra hoTelane bahu paDI na hoya. grAhakane rasoDAmAM laI javo e paNa saraLa nathI. vastutaH AvI moTI hoTelomAM bahAranA mANasane rasoDAmAM AvavAnI manAI hoya che. tema chatAM grAhakanA saMtoSa khAtara, bhASAnI takalIphane kAraNe ane zAkAhArI pratyenA mAnane lIdhe potAnI sAcI vAta teoe paDatI mUkI nahi. te mATe mane temanA pratye atyaMta Adara thayo. pA-8

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kurAsAo kurAsAo(Curacao - "kurAsAu' paNa bolAya che)nuM nAma duniyAnI poNA bhAganI vasatie to sAMbhaLyuM paNa nahi hoya. ame paNa kurAsAonuM nAma pahelI vAra sAMbhaLyuM vesTa inDijhamAM TrinidAdanA mukhya zahera paoNrTa oNpha spenanI pAna-amerikana eralAinsanI kacerImAM. venejhuelAno TrAnjhiTa vIsA amane na maLyo eTale amAre kurAsAo jaIne tyAMthI panAmAM jatuM vimAna pakaDavuM paDe evA saMjogo acAnaka UbhA thayA hatA. "kurAsAo kyAM AvyuM ?" pAna-amerikananI yuvatIne meM pUchyuM. eNe keribiyana sUmudrano nakazo kADhI emAM venejhuelAnI uttare eka TapakuM batAvIne kahyuM, "A rahyuM kurAsAo. e eka nAnakaDo TApu che." tyAM vasAnI jarUra nathI ?" nA. jyAM vIsAnI jarUra na paDe evA sthaLanI phalAITa ja tame have pakaDI zako ema che. ahIM nakazAmAM je pAMca-cha TapakAM AjubAjumAM dekhAya che e badhA Daca TApuo che. kurAsAo, arubA, boneira, sAlA vagere. Netherland Antilles - Daca dvIpasamudra - tarIke oLakhAya che. temAM mukhya TApu kurAsAo che. tyAM vIsAnI jarUra nathI. tyAM kAyama vasavATa mATe koI jAya to UlaTAnI enI sarakAra rAjI thAya ema che. paNa evA verAna TApumAM javA taiyAra koNa thAya ?" "tamArI bhalAmaNathI ame javA taiyAra thayA chIe. sAruM che ke eka divasa mATe ja javuM che. paNa tyAM Dara jevuM kaMI nathI ne ?" "nA, jarAya nahi. vesTa inDijhanA ghaNA TApuomAM mukhya vasati kALA habasI lokonI che. teo dekhAve jarA bihAmaNA lAge, paNa bahu garIba ane bhalA hoya che. Dara jevuM kaMI nahi." jenA vize kazI ja amane khabara nahotI evI eka ajANI dharatI upara bIje divase, jo vimAnamAM jagyA maLI jAya to, amAre javAnuM hatuM ane tyAM koIka hoTelamAM rAta rokAvAnuM hatuM.

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kurAsAo 115 skAyaleba tUTI paDyuM te e divasa hato - 11mI julAI 1979no. paoNrTa oNpha spenathI huM ane mArAM patnI vimAnamAM beThAM. samaya thayo eTale vimAna UpaDyuM. vimAnamAMthI kurAsAono nirjana TApu dekhAyo. TApunA cheDe eka moTI oNila riphAInarI hatI. thoDe AgaLa nIce jaMgala jevI jagyAmAM nAnuM eNraporTa dekhAyuM. eraporTanI AsapAsa koI moTAM makAno ke dhamadhamato vAhanavyavahAra jevuM kazuM ja nahotuM dekhAtuM, aThavADiyAmAM traNa vakhata vimAna Ave ane jAya. vimAnamAMthI UtaranAra ame thoDA pravAsIo hatA. eraporTanuM makAna nAnuM paNa svaccha hatuM. kasTamano khAsa koI vidhi nahoto. eka kAunTara upara hoTelanuM rijharvezana karAvI zakAtuM. kAunTara uparanI gorI Daca yuvatIe kahyuM, "ahIMthI hoTelanuM rijharvezana tamArI potAnI meLe karI zako cho." eNe bAjumAM eka moTuM baoNrDa batAvyuM. emAM judAM judAM khAnAMomAM kurAsAonI ATha-dasa hoTelanA raMgIna phoTA hatA. darekanI nIce eka lAla baTana hatuM. pAse hoTelanuM nAma ane enA dara lakhelA hatA. baoNrDanI bAjumAM TeliphonanuM mAtra risIvara hatuM. te UMcakIne je hoTelanuM lAla baTana dabAvIe te hoTelamAM sIdhI ghaMTaDI vAge ane temAM jagyA che ke nahi te risepzanisTa tarata ApaNane jaNAve. hilTana, plAjhA jevI betraNa atizaya moMghI hoTela hatI. bAkInI madhyama kakSAnI hatI. ame cAlIsa DaoNlaravALI sArI dekhAtI hoTelamAM phonathI amAre mATe rijharvezana karAvI lIdhuM. kurAsAomAM hilTana jevI hoTela che e jANI amane navAI lAgI. Daca yuvatIe kahyuM, "kurAsAomAM oNIla riphAInarI che ane hamaNAM tenuM kAmakAja vadhavA lAgyuM che, eTale mANasonI avarajavara paNa vadhavA lAgI che. vaLI, kurAsAomAM lagabhaga bAre mAsa taDakAvALuM havAmAna rahe che. eTale uttara amerikA ane keneDAnA ThaMDA pradezomAMthI ghaNAM pravAsIo taravA ane taDako khAvA Ave che. pravAsIone AkarSavA rAjya taraphathI suvidhAo vadhatI jAya che. dariyAmAM thoDe Aghe paravALAM (Corals) che. te jovA laI javAnI sagavaDa paNa have thaI che. eTale kurAsAomAM vadhu sagavaDavALI moMghI paNa nAnI hoTelo zarU thavA lAgI che." yuvatIe amane kurAsAo vize copAniyuM ApyuM. pravAsIone maphata vaheMcavA mATe te dara mahine chapAya che. emAM ghaNI prakIrNa mAhitI, dukAno ane hoTelonI jAherakhabara sAthe ApavAmAM AvI hatI. amerikAnA ane keneDAnA pravAsIone kharIdImAM jakAta-bacatanI dRSTie zo lAbha thAya tenI

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116 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe savistara mAhitI temAM hatI. kurAsAomAM nANAnuM calaNa Daca gilDarsanuM che, paraMtu amerikanone vaTAvano mAra na paDe eTalA mATe amerikana DaoNlaranuM calaNa paNa adhikRta gaNavAmAM AvyuM che. amArI vAta cAlatI hatI eTalAmAM eka UMco, jADo, kALo habasI Avyo ane te yuvatI sAthe spenizamAM vAta karavA lAgyo. yuvatIe amane kahyuM, "A TeksI DrAIvara kahe che ke bahAra have mAtra enI ekanI ja TeksI rahI che. tamAre javuM hoya to te rokAya. ahIMthI zahera sAta kilomITara dUra che ane teno TharAvelo dara sAta Dolara che. A TaeNksI tame javA dezo to tamAre zaheramAMthI phona karI TeksI bolAvavI paDaze ane tenA javA-AvavAnA cauda Dolara tamAre ApavAnA raheze." hoTelanuM rijharvezana thaI gayuM hatuM eTale ame utAvaLa karI TeksImAM beThAM. TeksI cAlI. DuMgarALa TApu upara caDa-Utara karato rasto nAno, paNa vAhanonI avarajavara vagarano, svaccha, zAMta ane hariyALIvALo hato. thoDI thoDI vAre AjubAju samudranAM je darzana thatAM te ame TApu upara chIe tenI pratIti karAvatAM hatAM. | kurAsAonA copAniyA upara huM najara pheravato hato. emAM eka pAnA upara kurAsAonI aitihAsika mAhitI ApavAmAM AvI hatI. TApunI zodha speniza lokoe karI hatI. krisTophara kolaMbase I. sa. 1492mAM amerikAnA khaMDanI zodha karyA pachI I. sa. 1499mAM pharIthI e amerikAnI zodhasaphare gayo tyAre AsapAsa nAnA nAnA TApuonI zodha mATe nIkaLelA enA sAthIdAromAMnA eka lephaTananTa Alphonjho da oedAe A kurAsAo TApunI zodha karI hatI. alabatta, tyAre A TApunI kaMI kiMmata nahotI. raDyAkhaDyA keTalAka speniza lokoe A TApu paranI potAnI mAlikInI sAcavaNI mATe tyAM vasavATa karyo hato. paraMtu sattaramA saikAmAM yuropIya prajAo vacce yuropa bahAranA pradezo sara karavAnI tIvra spardhA cAlI ane yuddho paNa thayAM. te vakhate I. sa. 1634mAM Daca sainikoe speniza loko pAsethI A TApu AMcakI lIdho. tyAM potAnuM saMsthAna sthApyuM ane thoDAka Daca lokone tyAM vasAvyA. I. sa. 1642mAM piTara subejhane eno gavarnara banAvyo. sattaramAthI ogaNIsamA saikA sudhI kurAsAonI mAlikI vakhatovakhata badalAtI gaI. Daca pAsethI aMgrejoe, aMgrejo pAsethI phrencoe, phrenco pAsethI aMgrejoe, aMgrejo pAsethI Daca lokoe - ema vakhatovakhata pheraphAra thatA

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kurAsAo 117 gayA. A evo mahattvano TApu nahoto ke tene mATe khUnakhAra jaMga thAya. jAya to javA de ane rahe to rahevA de evo A TApu hato. chevaTe I. sa. 1815mAM briTana ane haoNlaeNnDa vacce thayelA saMdhikarAra pramANe aMgrejoe Daca lokone A TApu pAcho soMpI dIdho. tyArathI enI mAlikI Daca sarakAranI che. jyArathI AphrikAnA kALA habasIone gulAma tarIke amerikA laI javAno vepAra cAlu thayo tyArathI vesTa inDijhanA TApuonI kiMmata vadhI. TApu uparathI gulAma bhAgIbhAgIne keTale dUra bhAgI zake ? eTale kurAsAo paNa gulAmonA vepAranuM eka moTuM mathaka banI gayuM. AthI ja kurAsAomAM ane vesTa inDijhanA ghaNA TApuomAM gorAo karatAM habasIonI vasati vadhAre che. alabatta, gulAmonI nAbUdI pachI A TApuonuM mahattva ghaTyuM hatuM. haoNlaeNnDanI sarakAre I. sa. 1954mAM Daca dvIpasamUhane thoDI svAyattatA (autonomy) ApI che. ethI enI prajA lokazAhI paddhatie potAnuM rAjya calAve che. alabatta, garvanaranI nimaNUka to haju paNa haoNlaeNnDanI rANI ja kare che. dakSiNa amerikAnI svAtaMtrya mATenI laData daramiyAna laDatanA karNadhAra sAyamana bolivArane kurAsAoe be vAra rAjyAzraya Apyo hato. ethI dakSiNa amerikAnI prajAne kurAsAo pratye premAdaranI lAgaNI rahI che. kurAsAomAM kAyamI vasavATa karavA mATe khAsa koI baMdhana nathI. eTale doDha lAkhanI chUTIchavAI vasati dharAvatA A TApumAM duniyAnA sATha jeTalA dezonA nAgariko AvIne vasyA che. lagabhaga pAMcaso varSa jUnI A vasAhata che eTale ahIM paththaranI jUnI sarakArI imArato, devaLo, sAinagoga, masjida vagere che. Adhunika bahumALI imAratonI AvazyakatA haju ahIM UbhI thaI nathI. kurAsAo lagabhaga cAlIsa kliomITara lAMbo ane pAMcathI dasa kliomITara pahoLo evo mAchalI-AkArano TApu che. A TApu upara thoDAMka gharonI vasativALAM evAM sAMtAkrujha, lAguna, soTo vagere ATha-dasa gAmaDAM che. bIjAM chUTAMchavAyAM jhUMpaDAM che, ane kurAsAonuM mukhya nagara te TApune eka cheDe samudrakinAre ane enI aMdara vahetI khADInI baMne bAju vaseluM te vilemasTADa che. TApunuM te eka mAtra moTuM nagara hovAthI kurAsAo tarIke paNa oLakhAya che. amArI TaeNksI hoTela pAse AvI pahoMcI. tarata hoTelamAMthI eka habasI nokare AvI amAro sAmAna uThAvI lIdho. risepzana kAunTara upara eka gharaDI habasI bAI hatI. bhAMgyuMtUTyuM aMgrejI te bolatI hatI. rajisTaramAM

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118 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe amArAM nAma, saranAmuM, pAsaporTa naMbara vagere lakhAyAM. ame amArA rUmamAM pahoMcyAM. bahAra daravAje AkarSaka lAgatI A hoTela aMdarathI sAva sAdhAraNa hatI. beThA ghATanA jUnA moTA makAnane hoTelamAM pheravI nAkhavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. lAkaDAnAM pATiyAM ane patarAM vaDe nAnI nAnI daseka rUmo ADIavaLI banAvavAmAM AvI hatI. rUmo erakaMDizanDa hatI, paNa eke erakaMDizanara cAlatuM nahotuM. ghaNIkharI rUmo khAlI hatI. be rUmomAM habasI pravAsIo hatA. hoTelanA pAchaLanA bhAgamAM keTalAMka sthAnika habasI kuTuMbo rahetAM hatAM, je hoTelanA kATakhUNiyA pesejamAMthI Ava-jA karatAM hatAM. vacce khullA cokamAM eka bAju keTalIka habasI strIo kapaDAM dhotI hatI ane dorI para sUkavatI hatI. eka khUNAmAM cokaDImAM naLa nIce keTalIka habasaNo vAsaNa mAMjatI hatI. amane jovA mATe vArApharatI ghaNAM badhAM amArI rUma pAse AMTo mArI gayAM. hoTelanuM vAtAvaraNa jotAM ja ame DaghAI gayAM. speniza bhASA bolatAM ame habasI gulAmonA gAmaThI vaMzajo jevAM lAgatAM e badhAMnA vAtAvaraNamAM ame thoDIka vAra to gUMgaLAmaNa anubhavI. mArAM patnIe kahyuM, "cAlIsa DaoNlaramAM AvI hoTela ? A te hoTela che ke koInuM ghara ?" - vAtane haLavI banAvavA meM kahyuM. "hoTelamAM ghara jevuM vAtAvaraNa hoya e to sAruM kahevAya. evuM vAtAvaraNa karI ApavAno vadhArAno cArja ApaNI pAsethI nathI letA eTalo ApaNane phAyado che." ahIM Dara jevuM to nahi hoya ne ?" "nA. A badhAM to garIbaDAM che, emane joIne ApaNane dayA AvavI joIe." "ApaNe bIjI koI hoTelamAM cAlyA jaIzuM ?" "kadAca bIjI hoTela paNa AvI ja haze, sivAya ke ApaNane hilTana ke plAjhAmAM jaIe. paNa te bahu dUra che ane moMghI che. gAmamAM pharavuM hoya to A hoTela ja barAbara che. ApaNane eka navo anubhava thaze. ApaNe kyAM vadhAre divasa rahevuM che ? savAre UThIne tarata phalAiTa pakaDavAnI che." rUmamAM sAmAna goThavI ame beThAM. hAthamoDhuM dhovA mATe bAtharUmamAM sAbu nahoto. mArAM patnIe ghaMTaDI vagADI nokara pAse sAbu magAvyo. kapaDAM dhotI eka bAI pAsethI dhovAno bhIno sAbu lAvIne Apyo. mArAM patnIe nArAjI batAvIne e pAcho Apyo. eTalAmAM risepzanisTa bAI AvI pahoMcI. eNe tarata nokarane nahAvAno navo sAbu ApavA sUcanA ApI.

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kurAsAo 119 navo sAbu Avyo. bAInI sUcanAthI nokare charI vaDe enA be TukaDA karyA. emAMthI eka TukaDo amane Apyo. bIjo TukaDo pAcho laI javAmAM Avyo. eka divasanA gharAka mATe aDadho sAbu paNa emane kadAca vadhAre lAgyo haze. ame bolavA jatAM hatAM paNa mUMgAM rahyAM. hoTelanA dara ane hoTelanI karakasara jotAM amane lAgyuM ke kurAsAo moMghuM hovuM joIe. vAta sAcI hatI. atizaya phugAvAne kAraNe vesTa inDijhanA ghaNA dezomAM bhAvo bahu UMce gayA hatA. svastha thaI ame gAmamAM pharavA nIkaLyAM. page cAlIne badhe jaI zakAya eTaluM nAnuM, vAhanonI khAsa kazI avarajavara vagaranuM, tadana svaccha, AsapAsa samudranAM bhUrAM nirmaLa jala ane khullA AkAzane kAraNe raLiyAmaNuM lAge evuM A suzAMta gAma hatuM. copAniyAmAM ApelA nakazA pramANe ame nAnI nAnI zerIomAM pharyA. temAM gorA loko thoDA ane kALA loko vadhu evI mizra vasati jaNAtI hatI. amerikana pravAsIonI vadhelI avarajavarane kAraNe koI koI loko aMgrejI thoDuM samajatA hatA. eka resTorAMmAM ame kaoNzi pIdhI. pharatAM pharatAM DhALa UtarI ame khADI pAse AvI pahoMcyAM. vizALa khullI jagyA hatI. sUrya namavA Avyo hato eTale taDako saumya banyo hato. samudra uparathI vegathI havA vahetI hatI. khADInA sAmasAmA kinAre gAma vaseluM che. amArI hoTela bAjuno bhAga otarAbAMDA tarIke ane sAmeno bhAga paMDA tarIke oLakhAya che. otarAbADA TekarAo para vaseluM che ane raheThANa mATenAM gharo tyAM vadhu che. paMDA sapATa medAnamAM vaseluM che ane tyAM sarakArI ane bIjI kacerIo, dukAno, resTorAM vagere vadhAre che. tyAM paththaranI ane lAla naLiyAMnAM chAparAMvALI be ke traNa mALanI ghaNI ImArato aDoaDa hArabaMdha, khADInA kinArAne samAMtara AvelI che. moTI sTImara jAya eTalI UMDI ane lagabhaga baso mITara jeTalI pahoLI A khADImAM vacce tarato jhUlato lAkaDAno majabUta pula che. ame UbhA hatAM eTalI vAramAM to jorathI haoNrna vAgyuM ane ghaDiyALano kAMTo khase ema dhIme dhIme amArI bAjuthI pula khasavA lAgyo. jotajotAmAM to te sAmI bAjue kinArAne aDIne lAgI gayo. daramiyAna baMne kinArethI nAnI loMca cAlu thaI ane keTalAka loko emAM besIne sAme pAra javA lAgyAM. thoDI vAramAM eka moTI sTImara AvI ane pasAra thaI gaI. pula pharI pAcho joDAI gayo. kurAsAomAM riphAInarIne kAraNe sTImaronI avarajavara vadhatI gaI che. :

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120 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe roja sarerAza trIsa vakhata A tarato pula khaseDAyA che. A pula uparathI pahelAM vAhano pasAra thavA devAmAM AvatAM, paraMtu vAhano mATe have navo pula khADI upara thoDe Aghe bAMdhavAmAM Avyo che. moTAmAM moTI sTImaro paNa nIcethI pasAra thaI zake eTalA mATe 160 phUTa jeTalo UMco A pula bAMdhavAmAM Avyo che. ATalI nAnI khADI upara A asAdhAraNa UMco pula enI sakAraNa kRtrima UMcAIne kAraNe ApaNuM dhyAna kheMcyA vagara rahe tevo nathI. kurAsAomAM vAhano ochAM che, chatAM bhaviSyanA vAhanavyavahArane lakSamAM rAkhI agAuthI taiyArI karI levAnI dRSTie A uttuMga pula bAMdhavAmAM Avyo che. khADInI aMdara taratA pula upara vIjaLInAM raMgaberaMgI balbanAM toraNo laTakAvyAM hatAM. rAtane vakhate jatI AvatI sTImarone e dekhAya e to kharuM, paNa rAhadArIone paNa enI rozanI AkarSaka lAge evI hatI. pula oLaMgI ame sAmI bAju gayAM. khADInI eka bAju phaloTiMga mArkeTa che. dasa-bAra hoDakAMmAM vepArIo zAkabhAjI ane phaLaphaLAdi vecavA beThA hatA, je rastA upara UbhA UbhA mANaso kharIdI zake. ame thoDAM saMtarAM kharIdI AgaLa cAlyAM. eka bAju moTI posTa oNphisa che. amAro kAryakrama acAnaka badalAyo hato. eTale muMbaI ghare tAra karavAnA vicAre ame aMdara gayAM. paraMtu cha-sAta zabdanA videzanA tAra mATe bhAratamAM jyAre paMdareka rUpiyA thatA tyAre tenA trIsa Dolara (lagabhaga aDhIso rUpiyA) amane tyAM kahyA. karAsAo pAse sIdhI sarvisa nathI eTale dara ghaNo vadhAre hato ane tAra pahoMcatAM paNa pAMca-cha divasa lAge ema hatuM eTale ame tArano vicAra mAMDI vALyo. (kurAsAonI tAra ane TelekSanI sIdhI sarvisa have cAlu thaI che.) ame bajAramAM laTAra mAravA lAgyAM. ADI ane UbhI pAMca-cha nAnI galIo hatI. badhI dukAnomAM cIjavastuo paradezI hatI. sthAnika kharIdanArAM karatAM videzI sahelANIonI kharIdI upara nabhato vepAra hato. zaoN-kesamAM goThavelI vastuo para mAtra kutUhalathI najara nAkhatAM nAkhatAM ame pasAra thaI rahyAM hatAM. kurAsAonI mulAkAta pahelAM bIjA koI gujarAtIe lIdhI haze ke kema teno ame vicAra karatAM hatAM evAmAM eka dukAnamAMthI avAja Avyo, "bolo bahena ! zuM joIe tamAre ?" gujarAtI bhASA sAMbhaLI amArA kAna camakyA. eka yuvAna bhAI dukAnamAMthI bahAra AvyA ane bolyA : "bahenanI gujarAtI sADI parathI mane thayuM ke tame gujarAtI cho, eTale tarata huM bahAra Avyo. A ajANyA TApumAM tame kyAMthI ?"

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kurAsAo 121 ame hasatAM sAme pUchyuM : "A ajANyA TApumAM tame kyAMthI ?" ame amArI vAta karI. emaNe kahyuM ke pote kacchanA aMjAranA vatanI che. lohANA che. pAkistAna thatAM siMdhathI AvIne kacchamAM AdipuramAM vaselA eka siMdhI vepArI sAthe emane sabaMdha thayo. e vepArIe bhArata choDIne panAmAmAM dukAna karI. teo potAnA kharce emane nokarI karavA panAmA laI AvyA. tyAMthI bIjA eka siMdhI vepArI emane kurAsAo laI AvyA. bAra mahinAthI teo kurAsAomAM che. Daca ane speniza paNa bole che. vepAra sAro cAle che. vaLI temaNe kahyuM ke kurAsAomAM siMdhIonI pAMca dukAno che H 'tAjamahala', 'bulacaMda', 'hiMdu pelesa', 'nAraNa' ane 'lA gaMgA'. bhAratanA bhAgalA paDyA tyAra pachI ghaNA zrImaMta siMdhI vepArIo duniyAnA ghaNA judA judA dezomAM vepArArthe vasyA. emAM keTalAka kurAsAomAM AvIne rahyA che. A vAta jANIne amane atyaMta AnaMda thayo. ame koI ajANI dharatI para nathI evuM amane have lAgyuM. thoDI vAramAM e kacchI bhAInA siMdhI zeTha bahArathI AvI pahoMcyA. paricaya karAvyo. cA-pANI pIdhAM. bIjI siMdhI dukAnonI mulAkAta lIdhI. rAtre eka siMdhI vepArIne tyAM zAkAhArI bhAratIya bhojana jamyAM. amAro divasa pariNAma-ramaNIya banI gayo. rAtanA hoTela para AvI, cokamAM goThaveluM TI.vI. thoDI vAra joI, ame sUI gayAM. bIje divase kurAsAono TApu choDI panAmA javA vimAnamAM ame beThAM. vimAna UThyuM tyAre bArImAMthI A TApunAM utsukatApUrvaka chellAM darzana karI lIdhAM, kAraNa ke kurAsAonI dharatI upara jiMdagImAM bIjI vAra paga mUkavAno amAre mATe saMbhava haze ke kema te prazna hato.

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juAragama brAjhilamAM riyo-Di-jAnIro(athavA rio-da-jAnero)thI lagabhaga pacAsa kilomITara dUra samudramAM AvelA juAragama nAmanA TApunA paryaTane tyAMnI TUrisTa kaMpanIo laI jAya che. meM ane mArAM patnIe te mATe nAma noMdhAvyAM hatAM. amArI hoTelamAMthI bIjA keTalAka pravAsIo paNa temAM joDAvAnA hatA. ravivArano divasa hato. savAre sAta vAge amane levA mATe hoTela gloriyA upara basa AvI pahoMcI. bharAvadAra mUcho ane lAMbA jhUlphAvALo pAMtrIseka varSano yuvAna gAiDa amane badhAne bolAvI gayo. ame basamAM beThAM. judI judI hoTelamAMthI pravAsIone laIne amArI basa riyo choDI samudrakinArAnI lagabhaga samAMtara evA dhorI mArga upara cAlavA lAgI. eka pachI eka keTalAMka nAnAM nAnAM gAmaDAMo vaTAvatI amArI basa chevaTe juAragama javA mATe dariyAkinAre eka sthaLe AvI pahoMcI. ame samayasara AvI pahoMcyAM hatAM. paraMtu amane TApu para laI janArI sTImaloMca haju AvI nahotI. samudrakinAre bAMdhavAmAM AvelI lAkaDAMnI jeTI upara ame TahelavA lAgyAM. savArano samaya hato. saumya taDako hato. zItala havA hatI. samudranAM gherAM nIlaraMgI pANI hiloLA laI rahyAM hatAM. vAtAvaraNa khuzanumA hatuM. dUrasudUra keTalIka hoDIo ane sTImaloMca UbhelI hatI. thoDI vAramAM bIjI eka basa AvI pahoMcI. temAMthI pacIseka pravAsIo UtaryA. temanI gAIDa trIsa-pAMtrIsa varSanI eka yuvatI hatI. teNe khAkhI raMga yuniphaoNrma (buza zarTa ane penTa) paheryuM hatuM. te ghaNI cabarAka ane bolakI hatI. pravAsIo para jANe hukama karatI hoya tema te sUcanAo ApatI hatI. loMcamAM besavA mATe kaTheDAvALI jeTI upara kyAM kevI rIte hArabaMdha UbhAM rahevuM ane loMcamAM kevI rIte jaladI jaladI besI javuM tenI sUcanAo pratispardhI TUrisTa kaMpanIonA baMne gAIDoe potapotAnA pravAsIone ApI. thoDA pravAsIo te pramANe goThavAvA lAgyA; paNa gAIDonI sUcanA kAmayAba nIvaDI nahi, kAraNa ke eTalI vAramAM aNadhAryuM

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juAragama 1 23 eka moTuM vAdaLuM caDI AvyuM ane varasAdanuM jhApaTuM paDyuM. ATalA badhA pravAsIomAMthI becAra jaNa sivAya koInI pAse reinakoTa ke chatrI nahotAM, eTale badhAM veravikhera thaI gayAM. ghaNAMkharAM to pAse AvelI resTorAMmAM ghUsI gayAM ane dUdha vagaranI kALI kaoNphI pIvA lAgyAM. daramiyAna amArI loMca AvI gaI hatI, paraMtu varasAdanuM jhApaTuM rahI na jAya tyAM sudhI musApharo besavA AvavAnA nahotA. varasAda rahI gayo. taDako nIkaLyo, paraMtu vAtAvaraNamAM ThaMDI prasarI gaI hatI. saddabhAgye ame videzamAM haMmezanI Teva mujaba garama kapaDAM sAthe lIdhAM hatAM eTale e kAma lAgyAM. ame sau pravAsIo loMcamAM gayAM. loca nAnI hatI. be basanA A badhA ja pravAsIone besavA mATe temAM beThako pUratI nahotI. keTalAke UbhA rahevuM paDe ema hatuM. locamAM sagavaDa ochI hatI, kAraNa ke saphara TUMkI hatI. loMcanA uparanA khullA bhAgamAM ThaMDI lAgatI hatI ane nIcenA baMdha DekamAM beThako thoDIka hatI. bIjI basanI jabarI gAIDa potAnA badhA pravAsIo mATe dhaDAdhaDa besavAnI sagavaDa karI lIdhI. amArI sAthenI eka moTI uMmaranI bahenane varasAdamAM bhIMjAvAne kAraNe TADha caDI gaI hatI. paraMtu loMcamAM dhIme dhIme chelle AvavAne kAraNe ene beThaka maLI nahotI. yuropa-amerikAnA dezomAM strIone potAnI beThaka ApavAnuM dAkSiNya puruSomAM ekaMdare ochuM hoya che. A prauDhA pravAsI mATe amArA baMne gAIDo vacce - yuvaka-yuvatI vacce ghaNI rakajhaka thaI. porTugIjha bhASAmAM teo zuM bole che tenI samaja nahotI paDatI, paraMtu temanA caherA paranA - kaDaka ugra bhAvo ane UMcA sAda jotAM jaNAyuM ke temanI vacce moTI takarAra thaI paDI che; jANe hamaNAM tao hAthohAthanI mArAmArI karaze ! evAmAM nIce beThelo eka pravAsI upara Avyo, eTale pelI prauDhA pravAsIne nIcenA DekamAM beThaka maLI gaI. ethI jhaghaDo maTI gayo ane vAtAvaraNa zAMta thaI gayuM, paNa baMne gAIDanI AMkho keTalIye vAra sudhI ekabIjAnI sAme ghUrakatI rahI. ame uparanA DekamAM hatAM. sadbhAgye amane beThaka maLI gaI hatI. ThaMDI na lAgatI hoya ke cakkara na AvatAM hoya to uparanA DekamAM besavAnI majA ora hatI. sAgaranI sahelagAhano AnaMda upara vadhu hato. jo svasthatA ke hUMphanuM kAraNa na hoya to nIcenA baMdhiyAra DekamAM gUMgaLAmaNa thAya evuM hatuM. amArI loMca vegathI cAlatI hatI. samudranAM UchaLatAM pANIne lIdhe kyAreka hAlakaDolaka thatI hatI. ame lagabhaga poNA kalAkanI saphara pachI, :

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124 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe keTalAka TApuonI bAjumAMthI pasAra thayA pachI, temAM vacce AvelA eka nAnakaDA TApu upara AvI pahoMcyAM. A lagabhaga ardhA mAIlanA gherAvAvALo ramaNIya TApu hato. juAragama nAmanA A dvIpamAM retInA paTamAM haravuM pharavuM, enA chIcharA samudramAM taravA paDavuM ane enuM zuddha naisargika vAtAvaraNa mANavuM e ja enuM mukhya AkarSaNa hatuM. beTa upara eka madhyama kakSAnI resTorAM hatI. tyAM rahetA keTalAka sthAnika loko A resTorAM calAve che. temAM amArA mATe cA-pANI ane jamavAnI sagavaDa karavAmAM AvI hatI. cA-nAsto laIne ame sau bAjumAM ja AvelA samudra tALa paTamAM laTAra mAravA nIkaLyAM. amArAmAMnA keTalAka gorA loko paga korcyuma paherI pANImAM nahAvA paDyA. pANImAM nahAvAnI AzA sAthe vaNA pravAsIo AvyA hatA. paraMtu vAtAvaraNamAM acAnaka ThaMDI vadhI jatAM keTalAke te mAMDI vALyuM hatuM. ame paNa ghUMTaNa sudhI pANImAM UbhAM rahI bharatInAM eka pachI eka AvatAM mojAMnI lahera mANI. samaya thayo eTale amAre mATe bhojana taiyAra thaI gayuM. resTorAMnI bAjumAM khullA cogAnamAM judA judA Tebala upara sau goThavAyAM. amArA be mATe agAuthI nakkI karelI zuddha zAkAhArI vAnagIo banAvavAmAM AvI hatI. taduparAMta ame sAthe gAMThiyA, khAkharA, lADu vagere lIdhAM hatAM. amArI A vAnagIomAM keTalAka pravAsIone rasa paDyo. ame temane e cakhADI. resTorAMvALAe keTalAka kAkAkauA pALelA hatA. gherA vAdaLI raMganA A kAkAkauA pravAsIo sAthe tarata haLI jAya evA hatA. DarIne te AghA UDI jAya evA nahotA. jamatI vakhate keTalAke potAnA Tebala upara eka eka kAkAkauAne laI lIdho. ame paNa amArA Tebala upara eka laI AvyA. e kAkAkauAne amArA gAMThiyA ne lADu bahu bhAvI gayAM. TApu upara resTorAM eka ja hatI eTale baMne TUrisTa kaMpanI taraphathI bhojananI varadI ene ja soMpAI hatI. vAnagIo paNa sarakhI ja hatI. amArA baMne gAIDa tenI vyavasthAmAM paDyA hatA. have temanI vacce sumeLa varatAto hato. badhAMne besADyA pachI teo baMne potapotAnI pleTa laI eka Tebala para sAmasAme goThavAyAM ane vAto karatAM karatAM khAvA lAgyAM. emanI vaccenI sulehane lIdhe ame zAMti anubhavatAM hatAM, temanI sAthenI vAtacIta parathI jANavA maLyuM hatuM ke teo baMne pariNIta che ane baMnene saMtAno paNa che. ame jamatAM hatAM tyAre be nAnI bALAo amane pIrasatI hatI.

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juAragama 125 bAra-paMdara varSanI teo haze, paraMtu te bemAM eka aMgrejI ghaNuM sArI bolatI hatI. brAjhilamAM to porTugIjha bhASA che. eTale ame tenAM vakhANa karatAM kahyuM, "tuM to IMgliza bhASA jANe tArI mAtRbhASA hoya tevI sarasa bole che." teNe kahyuM, "IMgliza mArI mAtRbhASA ja che.' "ema ? kevI rIte ?'' "ame dakSiNa AphrikAnA vatanI chIe. kepaTAuna pAse eka nAnakaDA TApumAM ame rahIe chIe." "tyAMthI tame pharavA AvyAM cho ?'' "nA, ame ahIM kAyama rahevA AvyAM chIe." "AphrikA choDIne ahIM AvA nirjana TApumAM kema rahevA AvavuM paDyuM ? tArA pitAjInA vyavasAyane kAraNe ema karavuM paDyuM che ?' "nA, mArA pitAjI nathI AvyA. huM ane mArAM mammI AvyAM chIe. mammI ahIM resTorAMmAM nokarI kare che. huM paNa mammI sAthe resTorAMmAM kAma karuM chuM." "pitAjI kema AvyA nathI ?' "mArI mammIe chUTAcheDA lIdhA che." eTaluM bolatAM to te bALAnI AMkhamAMthI daDadaDa AMsu TapakI paDyAM. ethI amArI vAtano bhAva palaTAI gayo. haLavethI meM tenuM kAraNa pUchyuM. teNe kahyuM, "mArA pitAjI bIjI strInA premamAM paDyA. vaLI rAtanA teo puSkaLa dArU pIne AvatA ane mArI mammIne bahu mAratA, eTale mArI mammIe chUTAcheDA lIdhA. ame judA gharamAM rahevA lAgyAM, paraMtu te pachI amArA pitA taraphathI bahu trAsa thato. eTale eka divasa ame kepaTAuna choDI sTImaramAM besIne amArA eka sagAne tyAM riyo AvI pahoMcyAM.' "tame rione badale ahIM kema raho cho ? riomAM raho to tAro abhyAsa na bagaDe ne ?' "mArI mammI AilaeNnDara (dvaipAyana athavA beTAI) che. janmI tyArathI eka nAnakaDA AilaeNnDamAM UcharI che. sAgaranA ghughavATa vagara ene UMgha AvatI nathI. ene nAnakaDA ochI vasativALA beTa sivAya bIje kyAMya rahevAnuM phAvatuM nathI. enI tabiyata bagaDI jAya che. riomAM enI tabiyata sArI nahotI rahetI, eTale ame ahIM AvIne rahyAM chIe. ene lIdhe mAre abhyAsa choDI devo paDyo che.'

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126 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - eka tejasvI cabarAka bALAne viSama kauTuMbika saMjogone kAraNe bhaNavAnuM choDI devuM paDyuM e vAta zikSaNanA vyavasAyamAM paDelA amArA jevAne mATe vizeSa dukhada hatI. e bALAnI sAthe enA jeTalI ja uMmaranI bIjI eka bALA hatI. ene iMgliza bolatAM AvaDatuM nahotuM. paraMtu iMgliza bolanAra bALA dvArA tenI paNa thoDI vAta jANI. te riyomAM rahe che. zALAmAM abhyAsa kare che. ' enI mAtAe paNa chUTAcheDA lIdhA che. enI mA paNa ahIM TApumAM ja rahe che. mAtA-pitA vacce mAtra svabhAvano meLa na rahevAne kAraNe aNabanAva thayo hato. baMnee rAjIkhuzIthI chUTAcheDA lIdhA. bApe bIjAM lagna karyA. mA juAragama TApumAM AvIne rahI ane resTorAMmAM nokarI karavA lAgI. saMtAnamAM mAtra A eka ja dIkarI. te bApa ane sAvakI mAnI sAthe rahe che, kAraNa ke riyomAM zALAmAM abhyAsa kare che. rajAomAM te potAnI mA pAse AvIne rahe che ane kAmamAM madada kare che. bApa chUTAcheDA pachI paNa mAne paisAnI madada kare che, vAraMvAra maLavA Ave che ane mA paNa patine maLavA vAraMvAra riyo jAya che. baMne kizorI dukhI hatI, paraMtu baMnenAM duHkhanI mAtrAmAM pharaka hato. dakSiNa AphrikAnI kizorInI AMkhamAM je viSAda jaNAto hato te riyonI kizorImAM nahoto. AvI aMgata vAtone kAraNe baMne bALAoe amArI sAthe kaMIka AtmIyatA anubhavI. mArI patnIe videzamAM kyAMka bheTa ApavA mATe kAma lAge evI sAthe lIdhelI vastuomAMthI baMne bALAone amArI yAdagIrI tarIke kAnamAM paheravAnI buTTI ApI. te joI baMne bahu rAjI thaI gaI ane paherIne nAcavA lAgI. doDIne potAnI mAne paNa teo batAvI AvI. baMnenI mAtA amArI pAse AvI. zabdathI to ame khAsa kazI vAta na karI, paraMtu amArI AMkhoe ghaNI vAta karI lIdhI. have amAre pAchA pharavAno samaya thaI gayo hato. baMne gAiDoe potapotAnA pravAsIone sUcanA ApI dIdhI. ame badhAM cAlyAM. kinAre jaI loMcamAM beThAM. pelI baMne bALAo ane temanI mAtAo paNa loMca sudhI AvI hatI. ame temanI vidAya lIdhI. loMca UpaDI tyAre teo bhAvabhInI najare joI rahyAM hatAM. loMca vegathI pANImAM sarakavA lAgI. eka pachI eka TApu pAsethI

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Aragama 127 pasAra thatI te khullA samudramAM AvI pahoMcI. havAmAna vAdaLiyuM thaI gayuM hatuM. pavana jorathI phUMkAvA lAgyo hato. samudranAM pANI moTA hiloLA levA lAgyAM hatAM. loMca vadhu hAlakaDolaka thavA lAgI. ene lIdhe pANInI moTI chAlako amArA upara AvavA lAgI. uparanA DaeNkamAM bhIMjAvAnuM jokhama UbhuM thayuM. eTale dhIme dhIme karatAM lagabhaga badhA pravAsIo nIcenA bhAgamAM cAlyA gayA. amArAM gAiDa yuvaka-yuvatI haju paNa uparanA DaeNkamAM hatAM. temane rojano mahAvaro hato, eTale teo baMne khAlI paDelI be beThakomAM AjubAjumAM besI vAto karavA lAgyAM hatAM. baMnee ekabIjAne sigareTa saLagAvIne ApI hatI. dhUmrapAna cAlatuM hatuM. keTalIka vAra pachI loMca sthira gatie cAlavA lAgI, eTale ame keTalAMka pravAsIo uparanA DaeNkamAM AvyAM. joyuM to gAiDa yuvaka-yuvatI have ekabIjAnI vadhu nikaTa AvyAM hatAM. ekbIjAne khabhe hAtha bharAvI, AMkhamAM mastI sAthe teo goSThI karI rahyAM hatAM. pravAsIonI hAjarIthI teoe saMkoca na anubhavyo. evI prathA A bAjunA dezomAM hotI nathI. amArI sAthe gorA sahapravAsIo mATe A bahu navAInI vAta nahotI. savAre vyavasAyI spardhAne lIdhe jhaghaDatAM gAiDa yuvakayuvatI atyAre praNayanI mastI anubhavatAM hatAM. savAre kalaha, bapore suleha ane sAMje praNaya evA kramamAM temanuM nATaka cAlyuM, paraMtu e traNeyamAM hatI mAtra caMcalatA. riyo pAse AvelA juAragama TApunI sahelagAha amane yAda rahI gaI te e TApunI keTalIka vizeSatAne kAraNe to kharI, paNa savizeSa to tyAMnA lokajIvananI anokhI bhAtane kAraNe.

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||||31 oksapharDa ane kemikA oksapharDa ane kaoNbrija laMDananA rasala kvera pAse ivAnsa enDa ivAnsa nAmanI TUrisTa kaMpanI che. enI zaheradarzana mATenI basamAM huM laMDana pharI Avyo. mane ethI saMtoSa thayo. tethI bIje divase huM enI oNksapharDa ane kaeNbrija mATenI TUramAM joDAI gayo. savAre samayasara huM rasala kvera pahoMcI gayo. basano samaya thayo paNa basa haju AvI na hatI. ame pravAsIo rAha jotAM hatAM, tevAmAM amArI gAIDa AvI pahoMcI. A to gaI kAlavALI ja yuvatI hatI; hoziyAra, paNa jabarI. gaI kAle huM DrAivara pAchaLanI pahelI beThakamAM bArI pAse beTho hato tyAre basa UpaDavAnI ghaDIe te dAkhala thaI ane mane uThADIne kahyuM, "A to gAIDane besavAnI jagyA che, mATe tame bIje beso." pariNAme lAinamAM pahelo hato chatAM mAre chelle besavAnuM AvyuM. AvA pravAsamAM jovA-jANavAnI utsukatA vadhAre hoya to AgaLanI sITamAM besavAnuM anukULa vadhAre rahe che, kAraNa ke keTalIka vAra gAIDa nIce UtarIne tarata samajAvavAnuM cAlu karI de tyAre chellI sITamAM beThelAne thoDoka geralAbha thato hoya che. amArI A gAIDa speniza yuvatI hatI. paraMtu aMgrejI, phrenca ane jarmana paNa te sarasa bolatI hatI. (yuropamAM sAmAnya rIte badhAM gAIDo traNacAra bhASAo jANatA hoya che.) gAiDa bahu bolakI hatI. vagara pUgye ja eNe kahI dIdhuM ke Aje potAnI DyuTI na hatI chatAM potAne bolAvavAmAM AvI che. kaMpanI mATeno eno kacavATa dekhAI Avato hato. daramyAna samAcAra maLyA ke amArA pravAsa mATenI basa bagaDI gaI che; samI thaIne AvatAM vAra lAgaze. lagabhaga aDadhA kalAka pachI basa AvI. lAinamAM huM AgaLa hato. gaI kAlanA anubhava pachI DrAIvaranI pAchaLanI gAIDa mATenI sITamAM huM na beTho. DAbI bAju bAraNA pAsenI pahelI sITamAM beTho. gAIDanI sITamAM je koI besavA jAya temane paNa huM salAha Apato ke "e gAiDanI sITa che; tamAre UThavuM paDaze."

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oksapharDa ane kembrija 129 badhAM pravAsIo besI gayAM. basa bharAI gaI. thoDI vAra thaI tyAM amArI gAIDa AvI pahoMcI. tenI sAthe tenuM eka paricita yugala paNa hatuM. gAIDe e daMpatIne potAnI sITamAM besADyuM. pachI mane kahyuM, "UbhA thAva." kema ?" meM sAzcarya pUchyuM. A gAiDanI sITa che." "gAiDanI kevI rIte ? kaI kAle tamArI pelI sITamAMthI tame mane uThADyo hato." "oha, gaI kAle tame mArI sAthe hatA ?" "hA, eTalA mATe to Aje tamArI sITa upara huM beTho nathI ane bIjAone na besavA mATe meM salAha ApI che." gAiDa kSaNa vAra dvidhAmAM paDI. pelAM pati-patnIne to potAnI sITa upara eNe besADI dIdhAM hatAM, eTale emane uThADavA te icchatI na hatI. teNe tarata ja potAnI vAta badalI, "ame gAiDa AgaLanI koI paNa sITamAM besI zakIe. Aje mAre ahIM besavuM che." paNa evuM zA mATe ? to tamAre pahelethI ja kahevuM joIe ne ? athavA sITa upara "gAIDa mATe anAmata' che e pramANe lakheluM hovuM joIe." "kaMpanImAM evo koI niyama nathI. gAiDa kahe te pramANe tamAre mAnavuM joIe." tame manasvIpaNe kaho te huM mAnavA mAgato nathI. tamArA koI niyamo lakhelA hoya to mane vaMcAvo. tamArI marajI mujaba game tyAre tame koIne paNa uThADo te barAbara nathI." meM UThavAnI nA pADI eTale yuvatIno avAja garama thayo. eTalI ja makkamatAthI huM mArI vAtane vaLagI rahyo. amArI vacce rakajhaka cAle che e badhA pravAsIoe jANyuM. mArI bAjumAM beThelA pravAsI UbhA thaIne chelle cAlyA gayA. gAIDa mATe besavAnI jagyA thaI hatI, paraMtu have tene mATe pratiSThAno prazna banI gayo hato. teNe kahyuM, "mAre to AkhI sITa joIe; to ja mane cAlu base badhA pravAsIone bahAranuM kaMI batAvavuM hoya to phAve." huM makkama rahevA mAgato hato. paraMtu keTalAka pravAsIoe AvIne Jain Ellion International

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130 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe potAnI sITa upara besavA mATe mane vinaMtI karI. vaLI vilaMba thato jato hato. AthI mArI sthiti kaphoDI thaI. meM rakajhaka laMbAvavAmAM saMkoca anubhavyo. huM Ubho thayo ane chelle je eka khAlI beThaka hatI temAM besI gayo. - amArI basa UpaDI. laMDananA rastAo vaTAvatI te oksapharDa tarapha javA mATe moTara-ve upara AvI pahoMcI. amArI gAIDe rastAmAM amane aMgrejI, phrenca ane pachI jarmana bhASAmAM oNksapharDa yunivarsiTIno itihAsa kahyo. ame oNksapharDa dhAryA karatAM moDAM pahoMcyAM. samaya ocho rahyo hato eTale tyAMnI yunivarsiTInA judA judA vibhAgo jhaDapathI amane batAvavAmAM AvyA. lagabhaga AThaso varSanI jUnI A yunivarsiTImAM keTalIka racanA haju e ja prAcIna Dhabe jALavI rAkhavAmAM AvI che. tenI purANI lAibrerImAM UbhAM rahetAM e yunivarsiTImAM abhyAsa karI gayelA glaeNDasTana, semyuala jahonasana, zelI, raskina vagere mahApuruSonuM smaraNa thayuM. yunivarsiTInI mulAkAta pachI ame kebrijane raste cAlyA. rastAmAM eka nAnA gAmamAM, agAuthI goThavaNa karyA mujaba eka resTorAMmAM bhojana mATe amane laI javAmAM AvyA. pazcimI DhabanAM resTorAMomAM eka pachI eka korsa pramANe vAnagIo pIrasavAmAM samaya paNa ThIka lAgato hoya che. amArI gAIDe kahyuM, "Aje moDuM ghaNuM thayuM che, mATe kebrijamAM ApaNane pUrato samaya nahi maLe." bhojana pachI kaeNbrijane raste ame AgaLa vadhyAM, paraMtu thoDeka gayAM tyAM to amArI basa bagaDI. kadAca savAre utAvaLamAM sarakhI samI nahi karAI hoya. DrAivare UtarIne boneTa kholIne cAlu karavA prayatno karyA, paraMtu basa cAlI nahi. AsapAsa koI vasati na hatI, eTale DrAivara ane gAIDa. traNeka pharloga para AvelA eka sthaLe phona karavA gayAM. tyAM sudhI ame badhAM paga chUTA karavA basamAMthI bahAra nIkaLI pharavA lAgyAM. kalAka pachI gAiDa ane DrAivara pAchA AvyAM. kahyuM, "mApha karajo, kembrija javAno kAryakrama have rada karavo paDe che. jyAM sudhI mikenikanI athavA bIjI basanI vyavasthA na thAya tyAM sudhI ApaNe ahIM ja besI rahevuM paDaze." thoDI vAra badhAM Amatema pharyA, paraMtu sAMja paDI gaI hatI ane ziyALAno ThaMDo pavana phUMkAvo zarU thayo hato, eTale badhAM basamAM bharAI gayAM. besIbesIne sau kaMTALI gayAM hatAM. keTalAMke UMghavA mAMDyuM hatuM. thoDI vAre eka moTarakAra AvI. temAMthI be mANaso ojAro sAthe

Page #152
oksapharDa ane kaeNbrija 131 UtaryA. temaNe basa cAlu karavA prayatno karyA. aDadhA kalAkamAM basa cAlu thaI gaI. ethI pravAsIomAM AnaMdanI lAgaNI phelAI gaI. basa laMDana tarapha pAchI pharavA lAgI. rAta paDI gaI hatI. ThaMDIno camakAro sakhata hato. hAthe paNa mojA paherI levAM paDyAM hatAM. basa pUra jhaDape doDatI hatI. tyAM amArI gAIDe UbhA thaI DrAivarane kaMIka sUcanA karI. tarata basa UbhI rahI. DrAivara nIce Utaryo. vaLI pAchuM A zuM thayuM ? khabara paDI ke basano daravAjo evI rIte vasAto hato ke enA polANamAMthI phUMkAto sakhata ThaMDo pavana gAIDanA page lAgato hato. e ThaMDI enAthI sahana thatI na hatI. prAIvare gAIDane kahyuM ke tAtkAlika AmAM bIjuM kaMI thaI zake tema nathI. gAiDa kaMpanIne bhAMDatI bhAMDatI potAnI beThaka uparathI UbhI thaI gaI ane vacamAM AvIne UbhI rahI. AkhI basa bharelI hatI eTale gAIDa bIje bese paNa kyAM ? yuropamAM bIjAne potAnI beThaka ApavAno ziSTAcAra ocho che. vaLI badhAM thAkelAM hatAM. gAIDe kaTAkSamAM mane kahyuM, "tamAre beThakamAM besavuM hatuM ne ? beThA hota to khabara paData." tame mane na besavA dIdho mATe to A badhuM thayuM." meM paNa enI majAkano javAba vALyo. Akhe raste gAIDa UbhI UbhI AvI. laMDanamAM rasala kvera pAse amArI basa AvI pahoMcI. basamAMthI UtaratAM gAIDe amane kahyuM, "ame kaeNbrija batAvI zakyAM nathI mATe aDadhA paisA tamane pAchA ApavAmAM Avaze. kaMpanI sAthe phona para amAre vAta thaI gaI che." basanA daravAjA pAse ja kaMpanIno mANasa AvIne Ubho rahyo hato. jema jema pravAsIo UtaratA gayA tema tema darekanI te mAkSa mAgato gayo ane chUTA taiyAra rAkhelA pAunDa-ziliMga darekanA hAthamAM mUkato gayo. paisA maLyAnI sahI ke pahocanI vAta nahi. kamANIno nahi, potAnI pratiSThA sAcavavAno prazna kaMpanIne mana moTo hato.

Page #153
T loe loko keniyAmAM nakuru zaheranI pAse AvelA menenagAI nAmanA TharI gayelA vAlAmukhI parvatanuM droNamukha (crater) joIne tyAMthI ame 'nakuru sarovara' jovA gayA. A sarovarakinAre lAkho phalemiMgo pakSIo amane jovA maLyAM. phalemiMgonI pAMkhonA raMganI jhAMya sUryaprakAzamAM vakhatovakhata kevI badalAtI rahe che te paNa pratyakSa jovA maLyuM. nakuruthI ame kisumu pahoMcyAM. kisumumAM amArA yajamAna pAnAcaMda jIvarAja zAhane ame vAta karI ke amArI icchA gAmaDAMnAM Aphrikana lokonuM rojiMduM jIvana jovAnI che. zakya hoya to jayAM phakta Aphrikana loko ja rahetA hoya evA koI nAnakaDA gAmaDAmAM jaIne emanA AvAsanI mulAkAta paNa amAre levI che. pAnAcaMdabhAIe tarata ja amArA mATe kAryakrama ghaDI kADhyo. ame che jaNa hatAM ane amArI sAthe bIjA cAra jaNa joDAyAM. temAM kisamunA nAthAlAla vIrapALa nAmano paNa eka bhAI hatA. pAnAcaMdabhAI kahe, "A nAthAlAla amArA karatAM paNa gAmaDAMnAM Aphrikana lokone vadhu saMparkamAM che. teo temanI sAthe bahu bhaLI gayA che. emane emanI taLapadI svAhilI bhASA paNa AvaDe che. ame badhAM zaheranI sudharelI svAhilI bhASA bolIe chIe." kisamuthI prathama ame pAse AvelA kibosa nAmanA gAmamAM gayAM. tyAM aMdha Aphrikana vidyArthIonI zALA che. vizALa cogAnamAM zALAnAM judAM judAM makAno che. vidyArthIo mATe tyAM rahevAnI sagavaDa paNa che. keniyAnA sAlvezana ArmI taraphathI A zALA (thIkAmAM che tevI) calAvavAmAM Ave che. A zALAmAM ame gayAM tyAre ekasAthe saMkhyAbaMdha aMdha Aphrikana bALakone joIne ame duHkha ane saMtApa anubhavyAM. keTalAM badhAM nirdoSa bALako e hatAM ! AphrikAmAM paNa aMdhatvanuM pramANa ghaNuM moTuM che e ahIM jANavA maLyuM. roga, ajJAna ane upacAranI suvidhAnA abhAvane kAraNe tyAM aMdhatvanuM pramANa vadhu rahyuM che.

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loe loko 133 ame gayA tyAre eka medAnamAM AMdhaLAM chokarAMo pakaDApakaDInI ramata ramatAM hatAM. je jhaDapathI teo doDatAM hatAM te parathI dUrathI jonArane ema ja lAge ke A chokarAMo AMdhaLAM nahi hoya. tyAMnA eka saMcAlake kahyuM, "A AMdhaLAM chokarAMone ahIMnAM amArA tamAma makAno, vargo, dAdarA, rastAo, phUTapAtha, vRkSo vagereno eTalo badho mahAvaro thaI gayo che ke teo doDatAM hoya che tyAre jANe dekhatAM hoya tema doDe che. dAdarAnAM pagathiyAM paNa kUdatAM kUdatAM Utare che. teo joI zakatAM nathI, paNa temanI bIjI indriyo bahu ja sateja hoya che." aMdhazALA joIne ame mivAnI nAmanA eka gAmamAM gayAM. tyAM zeraDImAMthI khAMDa banAvatA eka kArakhAnAnI mulAkAta lIdhI. ame temAM kAma karatAM garIba Aphrikana lokone najare nihALyAM. amane jANavA maLyuM ke keniyAnA Aphrikana lokomAM paNa kikuyu, jalavo, loe, Digo, cAgA, makhAmbA, leyo vagere vividha jAtio che. kisumunI AsapAsa loe loko vadhAre che. A lokonI eka vicitra khAsiyata che. nAnuM bALaka moTuM thAya tyAre enA nIcenA dAMtanI hAramAMthI AgaLanA pAMca ke cha dAMta pADI nAkhavAmAM Ave che. bIjI vAra dAMta Uge te paNa pADI nAkhavAmAM Ave che. pachI tyAM dAMta UgatA nathI. loe jAtinA lokomAM A rIte AgaLanA pAMca-cha dAMta na hovAthI hamezAM jIbha saheja dAMtanI bahAra rahe che. teo jyAre vAtacIta karatA hoya che tyAre te vadhu bahAra Ave che ane spaSTa dekhAya che. emane jotAM ApaNane kazuMka asvAbhAvika lAge paraMtu teone potAne kazuM asvAbhAvika lAgatuM nathI, kAraNa ke temanAmAM to badhA ja lokonA dAMta ane jIbha e pramANe hoya che. vastutaH ApaNA dAMta temane kadAca asvAbhAvika lAgatA haze ! AphrikAmAM bIjI keTalIka jAtinA lokomAM janmathI ja bALakanA uparanA hoThamAM vacce kApo mUkavAmAM Ave che. keTalIka jAtinA lokonI baMne kAnanI buTa vaccethI kApelI hoya che. keTalAka lokonI baMne AMkha nIce chUMdaNAM chuMdAvelAM hoya che. musalamAna jAtinI keTalIka strIo bAre mAsa gharamAM ane bahAra kALuM vastra (buI buI) mAthe ane chAtIe oDhe che. mivAnIthI ame badhAM kAcA raste thoDA mAIla dUra pacAseka kuTuMbanI vasativALA evA eka sAva nAnakaDA gAmamAM gayAM. gAma pAse amArI be moTara UbhI rahI eTale keTalAMka kALAM habasI chokarAMo doDatAM AvyAM. AvA dUranA gAmaDAmAM moTara paNa javalle ja AvatI hoya che. eTale

Page #155
134 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe gAmanAM chokarAMone tenI navAI lAge. moTaramAMthI UtarI ame gAmamAM dAkhala thayAM. nAthAlAla amane badhuM samajAvavA lAgyA. thoDIka vAra pachI amArI pAchaLa pAchaLa keTalAMka chokarAMo cAlavA lAgyAM. dhIme dhIme e chokarAonI saMkhyA vadhatI gaI. chokarAMo mAMhe mAMhe hasatAM hatAM. teo jANe kazAkanI majAka karatAM hoya tevuM paNa lAgyuM. teo bahu kutUhalathI amArI tarapha jotAM hatAM ane TIkhaLa karatAM hatAM. zA mATe teo Ama kare che te amane samajAyuM nahi. paraMtu nAthAlAle chokarAone pUchIne enuM kAraNa amane samajAvyuM. emaNe kahyuM, "ApaNI sAthe AvelA eka vaDIle dhotiyuM paheryuM che tethI A badhAM chokarAMo kutUhalathI pAchaLa pAchaLa Ave che. AphrikAmAM vasatA gujarAtIo penTa pahere che. (zaheromAM koIka dhArmika ke evA prasaMge gujarAtIomAM dhotiyuM alabatta paherAya che.) dhotiyuM paherelo mANasa A nAnAM chokarAMone Aje prathama vAra jovA maLe che. A dhotiyuM kevI rIte paheryuM haze te vize kutUhala che. temanI daSTie A kaMIka vicitra paheraveza che ane tethI teo ApaNI pAchaLa pAchaLa bhame che ane TIkhaLa kare che." loe lokonAM gharo vartuLAkAra jhUMpaDAM jevAM che. A gharone cAra corasa dIvAlo hotI nathI, paraMtu mATInI eka ja saLaMga vartuLAkAra dIvAla hoya che ane enA upara zaMku AkAranuM ghAsanuM chAparuM hoya che. aMdara daseka phUTanA vyAsavALI jagyAmAM Acho ujAsa hoya che. A garIba lokonI gharavakharI paNa nahi jevI hoya che. ekAda cUlo ane thoDAMka vAsaNo e emanI milakata. paheravAne pUrAM vastro paNa nahi. keTalAMka bALako taddana nagna hatAM. keTalAMka strIpuruSoe kamara nIce mAtra eka ja vastra pahereluM hatuM. AsapAsa koI khetaromAM ke kArakhAnAmAM nokarI karI mAMDa teo potAnuM gujarAna calAvatA hoya che. temanAM paherelAM kapaDAMmAM AMtararASTrIya vaividhya hatuM, kAraNa ke zaheranA lokonAM jUnAM UtarelAM kapaDAM temaNe badhAMe paheryA hatAM. keTalAMkane e bahu TUMkA paDatAM hatAM ane keTalAMkane moTAM. mAnavajanma maLyo hovA chatAM pazu jevuM jIvana jIvatA, zAhI jevA kALA kALA habasIonI nidhana dazAnuM gheruM karuNa dazya joIne ame anukaMpAnI lAgaNI anubhavI. nAthAlAle jhUMpaDAomAM jaI keTalIka Aphrikana strIone bolAvI kahyuM, "Aje magenI (mahemAna) padhAryA che ane teo tamAruM nRtya jovA utsuka che." zarUAtamAM strIoe AnAkAnI karI. paraMtu traNa-cAra strIone khullA cogAnamAM bolAvI nAthAlAle pote temanI sAthe Aphrikana nRtya karavAnuM cAlu

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loe loko 135 karyuM. pachIthI to eka pachI eka jhUMpaDAmAMthI strIo ane puruSo AvatAM gayAM ane nRtyamAM joDAtAM gayAM. amArAmAMnAM keTalAMka paNa temAM joDAyAM. ghaNuM moTuM vartuLa thayuM ane bahu ullAsapUrvaka e nRtya cAlyuM. keTalAMka temAM tAla pUravA mATenA potAnAM Dhola-nagArAM paNa laI AvyAM. keTalAMkanA hAthamAM kohUikanI bATalInAM DhAkaNAM parovelI gAmaThI lejhima paNa hatI. nRtya pUruM thayuM. amane thayuM ke A garIba mANasone vaheMcavA mATe sAthe kaMIka lAvyA hota to sAruM. tyAM to pAnAcaMdabhAIe gADImAMthI moTuM pekeTa lAvI mArAM patnInA hAthamAM mUkyuM. emAM cokaleTa hatI. gAmanAM badhAM ja mANasone caoNkaleTa vaheMcavAmAM AvI. pAnAcaMdabhAIe te mATe pahelethI ja vyavasthA karI lIdhI hatI e tyAre ja ame jANyuM. gAmanI mulAkAta laI ame pAchAM pharyAM. rastA upara AvI ame badhAM amArI moTaramAM beThAM. AkhuM gAma amane vaLAvavA mATe AvIne thoDe cheTe UbhuM rahyuM. jevI amArI moTara cAlu thaI ke ekadama moTI tINI ciciyArI sAthe lAkaDIo ugAmI badhA loko amArI moTara upara dhasI AvyA. kema Ama thayuM te amane samajAyuM nahi. amArAmAMnI koIka mahilAo gabharAI paNa gaI. paNa tarata ja nAthAlAle amane kahyuM, "gabharAzo nahi; teo ApaNane mAravA ke lUMTavA nathI AvyA. vidAya ApavAnI A teonI rIta che." nAthAlAlanI vAta sAcI hatI. moTara cAlI tyAre gAmalokonA hasatA prasanna caherA joI zakAtA hatA. sau bolI rahyAM hatAM : "koherI, koherI (Avajo, Avajo).

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|| ||||33 rio-DI-jAnerothI pAchAM pharatAM madhya amerikAmAM panAmA javAno amAro kAryakrama hato, paraMtu amArI phalAiTamAM acAnaka pheraphAra thaI gayo hato. eTale rio javAne badale pahelAM panAmA amAre javAnuM thayuM. panAmA mArAM patnI ane huM kurAsAo TAputhI savAranAM panAmA mATenI phalAiTamAM beThAM. vimAnamAMthI keribiyana samudramAM keTalAka chUTAchavAyA TApuo dekhAyA. tyAra pachI panAmA AvyuM. vimAnanI eka bAjunI bArImAMthI pesiphika ane bIjI bAjunI bArImAMthI eNTalAnTika mahAsAgara dekhAtA hatA. vimAna nIce UtaratAM panAmAnA Tokumena eNrapaoNrTano rana-ve dekhAyo. te ghaNo ja moTo ane sarasa hato, paraMtu laMDana, Tokyo ke nyUyaoNrkamAM jema eNrapaoNrTa upara saMkhyAbaMdha vimAno hArabaMdha UbhelAM dekhAya che tevuM panAmAmAM kazuM dekhAyuM nahi. are, muMbaInA sAMtAkrujha-sahAra eNrapaoNrTa jeTalI avarajavara paNa tyAM nahotI. ahIM vimAno Ave ane tarata UDe, kAraNa ke moTA bhAganAM vimAno bIjA dezonAM hoya. panAmAnAM potAnAM vimAno jhAjhAM nahi, eTale vizALa eNroDroma khAlI khAlI lAge. kurAsAothI panAmA UtaranAra ame thoDA pravAsIo hatA. navuM ja bAMdheluM AMtararASTrIya eraporTanuM svaccha makAna UMcA UMcA be mALavALuM ane ghaNI mokaLAzavALuM hatuM. jyAM juo tyAM pravAsIo mATe puSkaLa khurazIo ane sophA. paNa besavAvALA pravAsIo bahu nahi. amerikAnI sahAyathI AvaDuM moTuM eNrapArTa bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM che, paraMtu eNrapaoNrTanA pramANamAM pravAsIonI avarajavara haju tyAM vadhI nahotI. kasTamsa mATe bharavAnAM phorma amane ApavAmAM AvyAM. ghaNA dezomAM hoya che evo eka prazna emAM paNa hato : "tamArI pAse tAjAM phaLa che ?'' amArI pAse kurAsAothI lIdhelAM keLAM, peru ane saMtarAM hatAM. meM mArAM patnIne kahyuM, "duniyAnA keTalAka dezomAM kasTamsavALA tAjAM phaLanI bAbatamAM bahu cIkaNA hoya che. bIjA dezonAM phaLa dvArA potAnA dezanA lokone rogacALo thaI jaze athavA potAnI vanaspatine acAnaka nukasAna pahoMcaze, evI bhIti teo sevatA hoya che, eTale phaLaphUla ke choDa-ropA mATe teo bahu kaDaka kAyado rAkhe che. potAnI prajAne jhADA thaI jaze e bIke amerikA bhAratanI kerIne potAnA dezamAM dAkhala thavA

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panAmAM 137 detuM nathI. jApAna, osTreliyA vagere paNa phaLa mATe sakhata kALajI rAkhe che." "paNa dhAro ke koInI pAse phaLaphaLAdi nIkaLe to kasTamsavALA zuM kare?" mArAM patnIe sahaja pUchyuM. te laIne tarata teno nAza karAve. A koI evo gaMbhIra guno nathI ke tethI jelamAM besADe athavA tenI bIjI koI sakhata sajA hoya. keTalIka vAra koIka saMtADIne paNa laI jAya che. ethI te te dezanI prajAone rogacALo lAgu paDyo hoya evuM kyAreya jANyuM nathI. paraMtu kasTamsamAM ApaNane jo pUche to ApaNe teno sAco javAba to Apavo ja joIe ne ? ane sAco javAba ApIe to ApaNI pAsethI e phaLaphaLAdi laIne teo pheMkI de emAM paNa saMzaya nahi." paraMtu phaLa mATe ciMtA kasTamanA sAmAna tapAsanAra ispekTara pAse pahoMcIe tyAre karavAnI rahe, te pahelAM nahi. vimAnanI aMdara ke vimAnamAMthI UtaryA pachI eraporTanA makAna sudhI pahoMcIe tyAM sudhI A ciMtA sAmAnya rIte hotI nathI. meM mArAM patnIne kahyuM, "ApaNI pAse je phaLa che te kasTamsavALA naMkhAvI de tenA karatAM ApaNe te khAI laIe to vadhAre sAruM thaze. Ama paNa ApaNane bhUkha to lAgI che. pachI bahAra jaI navAM phaLa kharIdIne khAvAM tenA karatAM atyAre ApaNe A phaLane ja nyAya kema na ApIe ?" kasTamsanA oNphisaronAM Tebala zarU thAya tenI pahelAM thoDeka dUra eka sophAmAM besIne ame, vimAnamAMthI amAro sAmAna Ave tyAM sudhImAM keLAM, saMtarAM, peru vagere badhAM phaLa vAparI lIdhAM. phaLAhAra karyA pachI ame kasTamsanuM phorma bharyuM. "tamArI pAse koI tAjAM phaLa che ?" e praznanA uttaramAM ame have "nA" lakhI. kasTamsamAMthI saraLatAthI ame pasAra thaI gayAM. duniyAnA keTalAka dezomAM khAvAnI cIjavastuonI bAbatamAM judA judA niyamo hoya che. sUkI ane Tina ke pekeTamAM akabaMdha vastuo ApaNA potAnA ja vaparAza mATe che ane bIjA koIne te ApavAmAM nahi Ave evI khAtarI ApIe to keTalAka bhalA ophisaro te sAthe laI javA de che. keTalAka dezomAM TinanA sIlabaMdha DabbAmAM athANuM, rasa, phaLanA TukaDA ke koI jAtanAM pravAhI paNa laI javA de che. keTalAka dezomAM pahelAM AvI badhI mAthAkUTa nahotI. paraMtu bIjA dezonuM joIjo Ine keTalAka nAnA ane avikasita pachAta dezo paNa AvA kAyadA karavA lAgyA che. je dezamAM atizaya gaMdakI hoya, jenuM Arogya ekaMdare bahu sAruM na hoya ane vadhu bagaDaze evuM jokhama paNa na hoya evA dezo paNa bahAranA nIrogI pravAsInA svaca khAdya padArthone have aTakAvavA lAgyA che. dekhAdekhI ane paraspara samAna hakkanI vRttinuM A visaMvAdI pariNAma che.

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138 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe uttara amerikAno khaMDa nIce enA naiRtya cheDe leTina amerikAnA khaMDa sAthe jamInanI eka sAMkaDI paTTIthI joDAyelo che. eTale ke uttara amerikAnA uttara cheDethI dakSiNa amerikAnA dakSiNa cheDA sudhI jamInamArge saLaMga pahoMcI zakAya. uttara ane dakSiNa amerikAnA khaMDo vacce eNTalAnTika mahAsAgarano ja eka bhAga te keribiyana samudra che. A baMne khaMDo pazcima bAju jamInathI joDAyelA che. madhya amerikA tarIke oLakhAtA A joDANavALA jamInanA vistAramAM sAva cheDe Avelo taddana sAMkaDo pradeza te panAmAM rAjaya che. enI uttare kosTArikAnuM ane dakSiNa koloMbiyA(Colombia-dakSiNa amerikA)nuM rAjaya AveluM che. kolaMbase amerikAnI zodha karI tyArathI panAmA speniza lokonuM saMsthAna banyuM hatuM. samaya jatAM koloMbiyAe panAmA upara varcasva jamAvI potAnAmAM tene bheLavI dIdhuM hatuM. paraMtu I. sa. 1903mAM yunAITeDa sTeTse panAmAne svataMtrya thavAmAM madada karI tyArathI te svataMtra rAjaya rahyuM che. panAmA lagabhaga trIsa hajAra corasa mAIlano vistAra dharAve che. enA AkhA rAjyanI kula vasati Azare paMdara lAkhanI (bhAratanA dvitIya kakSAnA koI eka moTA zahera karatAM paNa ochI) che. panAmAnI vasati mizra prakAranI che. tyAM lagabhaga pAMcaso varSamAM spena, iMglenDa, holenDa vagere dezomAMthI AvIne vaselA yuropiyano che, amerikAmAMthI AvIne vaselA reDa inDiyano che, gulAma habasIonA Adhunika svataMtra vArasadAro che, kALA-gorAnA mizraNavALI varNasaMkara prajA paNa che ane sthAnika AdivAsIo paNa che. panAmA lAMbA samaya mATe spenanuM saMsthAna rahyuM hatuM. eTale eno mukhya dharma rahyo che romana ketholika ane enI mukhya bhASA rahI che speniza. panAmAno keTaloka pradeza TharI gayelA javALAmukhIno che. ene lIdhe e bahu phaLadrupa che. tyAM khetI sArI thAya che. moTA bhAganI prajA khetInA vyavasAyamAM rokAyelI ane sukhI che. keLAM, zeraDI, kaoNphI, koko vagereno uttama kakSAno puSkaLa pAka tyAM thAya che. tenI nikAsa dvArA panAmAne ghaNI sArI Avaka thAya che. panAmAM rAjyamAM vaselA mukhya zaherane panAmAe juduM nAma nathI ApyuM. eTale te "panAmA siTI' tarIke oLakhAya che. - panAmAnA kasTamsamAMthI bahAra nIkaLI ame amAro sAmAna eNraporTamAM rAkhavAmAM AvelA eka moTA laoNkaramAM mUkyo, kAraNa ke amAre Akho divasa pharIne sAMje eNrapaoNrTa pAchAM AvavAnuM hatuM. ame TeksInI tapAsa karI. ghaNAkharA TaeNksIvALA habasI hatA. teo speniza bolatA hatA. ame iMgliza bolavAvALAnI TeksI mATe Agraha rAkhyo.

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panAmA 139 teomAM vAta prasaratAM traNeka TaeNksIvALA AvI pahoMcyA. emAMnA ekanI sAthe Akho divasa badhe pharavA mATe ame DaoNlara TharAvyA. (panAmAmAM enuM potAnuM calaNa bAlkovA ane amerikA DaoNlara baMne cAle che.) e nakkI thatAM TaeNksIvALo tarata utAvaLa karavA lAgyo. ene bIka hatI ke rakhene bIjo TaeNksIvALo phAcara mAre. ame kahyuM, "paNa amArI pAse je TrAvelarsa ceka che te eNrapaoNrTanI beMkamAM vaTAvI laIe, kAraNa ke tamane ApavA mATe amArI pAse rokaDA DaoNlara nathI." eNe kahyuM, "tenI phikara na karo. huM TrAvelarsa ceka svIkAruM chuM." svaccha zveta yuniphaoNrma paherelA e jADA ThIMgaNA habasI DrAivaranI TaeNksImAM ema beThAM. te iMgliza sAruM bolato hato. te hasamukho, vivekI ane maLatAvaDo hato. utsAhathI badhuM samajAvatAM samajAvatAM te TaeNksI haMkAravA lAgyo. amane te sattAvIza kilomITara dUra panAmA zaheramAM laI gayo. tyAM ame thoDuMka pharyAM. eka resTorAMmAM cA-pANI lIdhAM. tyAra pachI TaeNksIvALo amane eNTalAnTika ane pesiphika mahAsAgarane joDatI panAmAnI suprasiddha nahera jovA laI gayo. panAmAmAM eNTalAnTika ane pesiphika mahAsAga2 vacce ochAmAM ochuM aMtara eka sthaLe sIdhI lITIe lagabhaga 43 mAIlanuM che. e vistAramAM pacAsa mAIla lAMbI nahera yunAiTeDa sTeTsa oNpha amerikA taraphathI bAMdhavAmAM AvI che. emAM eNTalAnTika bAjunuM pravezadvAra te gATuna laoNksa (Gatun Locks) che ane pesiphika bAjunuM pravezadvAra te mirAphalorsa laoNksa (Mirafloers Locks) che. panAmA zaheranI pAse mirAphalorsa laoNksa che ane tenI racanA jovA jevI che, eTale te jovA roja savArathI sAMja sudhImAM hajAro pravAsIonI avarajavara tyAM thatI hoya che. TikiTa laI ame mirAphalorsa laoNksamAM dAkhala thatAM duniyAnI eka vakhatanI ajAyabI tarIke gaNAyelI A nahera jovA Azare traNeka hajAra pravAsIo tyAM hatA. pravAsIonI avarajavara satata cAlu rahetI, kema ke jeTalo rasa paDe te pramANe loko rokAtA. mAIla upara thoDI thoDI vAre nahera vize ane pasAra thatI sTImaro vize mAhitI apAtI hatI. saune chApelI patrikA paNa apAtI hatI, jemAM panAmAnI naherano TUMko itihAsa ApavAmAM Avyo hato. panAmAnI nahera bAMdhavAno pahelo vicAra amerikanone Avyo hato ema nahi kahI zakAya. kolaMbase amerikAnI zodha karI te pachInAM thoDAM ja varSamAM, I. sa. 1524mAM spenanA rAjA cArlsa pAMcamAe panAmAnA pradezanI nahera bAMdhavAnI dRSTie mojaNI karAvI hatI. paraMtu eka yA bIjA kAraNe nahera bAMdhavAnuM bhAre kAma zarU thaI zakyuM nahi. ema karatAM karatAM traNa saikA jeTalo samaya vItI gayo. tyAra pachI suejhanI nahera bAMdhanAra phrenca ijaneronI phrenca

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140 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe kenala kaMpanI, e I. sa. 1880mAM panAmAnI nahera bAMdhavA mATe hakka meLavyA. vIsa varSa sudhI e ijaneroe paNa mAthAkUTa karI. paraMtu paise teo pahoMcI zakyo nahi ane e pradezamAM vAraMvAra thatA pILA tAva(Yellow Fever) nA rogacALAne kAraNe teo thAkI gayA. I. sa. 1903mAM panAmAne svataMtra thavAmAM pote madada karI te vakhate yunAiTeDa sTeTse panAmA pAsethI nahera bAMdhavA mATenI jamInano viratAra ghaNI moMghI zarato maMjUra rAkhIne mAgI lIdho. e karAranI mukhya zarato A pramANe hatI : (1) panAmAnI svataMtratA mATe yunAITeDa sTeTsa bAMyadharI ApavI. (2) A jamInanA hakka bhogavavA mATe yunAITeDa sTeTse panAmAne tarata eka karoDa DaoNlara ApavA. (3) naheranuM bAMdhakAma pUruM thaI jAya tyArathI yunAITeDa sTeTse so varSa sudhI dara varSe naheranA bhADApeTe TharAvelI vArSika rakama panAmAne ApavI. (4) phrenca loko nahera bAMdhavAno potAno haka jato karIne te yunAiTeDa sTeTsane Ape e mATe yunAITeDa sTeTse phrenca kenAla kaMpanIne cAra karoDa DaoNlara cUkavavA. (pa) A pradezamAM keTalAka lokonI potAnI aMgata mAlikInI jagyA hatI. te jagyA temanI pAsethI vecAtI laI levA peTe amerikAe Azare pacAsa lAkha Dolara kharcavA, (6) koloMbiyA panAmAnI bAbatamAM pharI dakhalagIrI na kare e zarate amerikAe koloMbiyAne aDhI karoDa DaoNlara cUkavavA. ATalI moTI rakama cUkavI amerikAe e DuMgarALa vistAramAM naheranuM khodakAma zarU karyuM, paraMtu eka vikaTa ijanerI samasyA UbhI thaI. te jo ukelI na zakAya to pANInI nahera mATe amerikAe kareluM kharca pANImAM paDI jAya. paraMtu amerikAe duniyAnA buddhizALI ijanerone kAme lagADIne chevaTe e samasyA ukelI. eTalA mATe to duniyAnI ajAyabIomAM panAmAnI kenAlanI gaNanA thavA lAgI. zI hatI e ijanerI samasyA ? sAmAnya rIte be samudranI sapATImAM bharatIoTa pramANe pAMca-dasa phUTano thoDo pharaka paDe. paraMtu eTalAnTika ane pesiphika e be mahAsAgaro vacce sapATIno taphAvata lagabhaga 85 phUTa jeTalo jaNAyo. have jo A be mahAsAgaro vacce saLaMga sAdI nahera karavAmAM Ave to UMcI sapATIe Avela pesiphika mahAsAgaranAM pANI dhodhanI jema eNTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAM dhasyA kare. ema thAya to jahAjonI avarajavaranA hetu mATe A nahera bAMdhavAnuM je Ayojana karavAmAM AvyuM hatuM te nirarthaka nIvaDe, kema ke eka yA

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panAmAM 141 bIjI bAjuthI koI paNa jahAja salAmata rIte pasAra thaI zake nahi. amerikAe A nahera karavAnuM mAthe lIdhuM tyAre ene khabara nahotI ke AvI eka vikaTa samasyA AvIne UbhI raheze. paraMtu ijaneroe naheranA baMne cheDe pANIne judA judA hojamAM bAMdhI laIne eTale Locks karIne, jahAjone eka sapATIethI bIjI sapATIe laI javAnI vyavasthA karI. vaLI e mATe UMcI sapATIe AvelI cAgresa nadI para baMdha bAMdhI tyAM gATuna nAmanuM vizALa sarovara taiyAra karyuM ane naheranI sapATInI vadhaghaTa mATe e sarovaranA pANIno upayoga karyo. A nahera bAMdhavA pAchaLa I. sa. 1903 thI I. sa. 1913 sudhIno eTale ke lagabhaga agiyAra varSano samaya amerikAne lAgyo. te daramiyAna paMcAvana hajAra majUro to pILA tAvamAM mRtyu pAmyA. nahera pAchaLa amerikAe badhuM maLIne lagabhaga traNa abaja DaoNlaranuM kharca karyuM. A eka ghaNuM moTuM, mAtra amerikAne ja paravaDe evuM, Arthika sAhasa hatuM. amerikA tyAre paNa keTalo dhanADhya deza hato teno khyAla panAmAnI nahera pAchaLa eNe karelA kharca parathI karI zakAya che. nahera jovA ame gayAM tyAre mirAphalorsamAM jANe meLo bharAyo hato. naheramAM aDoaDa banAvelA traNa hojanI tadana najIka ApaNane javA devAmAM Ave che. ame tyAM sudhI pahoMcyAM. daramiyAna eTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAMthI eka jahAja AvyuM. e jahAjane mahAsAgaranI sapATIthI ekatrIsa phUTa UMce naheranA e cheDe gATuna laoNksamAM lAvavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. have mirAphalorsamAM ene enI pANInI sapATIvALA hojamAM dAkhala karAyuM. te dAkhala thaI gayA pachI hAjano jADo lokhaMDI daravAjo baMdha thaI gayo. hojamAM yaMtra vaDe tarata pANI umeravAmAM AvyuM. jema jema pANI vadhatuM gayuM tema tema temAM taratuM jahAja UMce AvatuM gayuM. hojamAM ATha miniTamAM sattAvIza phUTa jeTalI sapATI UMcI thAya eTaluM, lagabhaga eMsI lAkha gelana jeTaluM pANI umerAyuM. hojamAM nIce dekhAtI sTAramAM beThelA je pravAsIone jovA mATe amAre moTuM nIcuM karavuM paDatuM hatuM te pravAsIone ame have sIdhuM moTuM rAkhIne joI zakavA lAgyAM. pahelA ane bIjA hojanI pANInI sapATI have sarakhI thaI gaI. tyAra pachI e benI vacceno lokhaMDano daravAjo yaMtra vaDe khUlI gayo. sTImarane kaptAne bIjA naMbaranA hojamAM dhIme dhIme haMkArI lIdhI. lokonA ToLA sAthe ame paNa e hoja pAse khasyA. hojano e daravAjo baMdha thayI. pahelA naMbaranA hojamAM umerAyeluM sattAvIsa phUTa jeTaluM pANI pAchuM ochuM thaI gayuM. e pANI have bIjA naMbaranA hojamAM bharAI gayuM. pariNAme bIjA naMbaranA hojamAM pANInI sapATI have copana phUTa jeTalI UMcI thaI gaI. e pramANe sTImara paNa kula copana phUTa UMcI thaI gaI.

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142 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe aMdara UbhelA pravAsIone ame have UMcuM moDhuM karIne jovA lAgyA. bIjA hojanI pANInI sapATI have trIjA hojanI sapATI jeTalI thaI gaI. e benI vacceno daravAjo khUlatAM sTImara sarakhI sapATIvALA trIjA hojamAM dAkhala thaI. daravAjo baMdha thayo. A trIjA hojanI pANInI sapATI pesiphika mahAsAgaranAM pANInI sapATI jeTalI hatI. eno chello daravAjo khUlatAM sTImara naheramAM saDasaDATa cAlavA lAgI ane thoDuM aMtara pAra karI pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM dAkhala thaI gaI. A traNe hojamAM pANInI vadhaghaTa karavAnuM kAma yaMtraracanA vaDe divasarAta niyamitapaNe cAlyA kare che. rojanI lagabhaga cAlIsa (bAra mahine lagabhaga sADAbAra hajAra) sTImaronI avarajavara A naheramAM thAya che. nahera pasAra karavA mATe baMne mahAsAgaramAM sTImarone nahera pAse AvIne lAinamAM UbhA rahevuM paDe che. eka mahAsAgaramAMthI nahera dvArA bIjAmAM pahoMcatAM AThathI soLa kalAka lAge che, paraMtu ethI dakSiNa amerikAne cheDe AvelA kepa hornanA tophAnI ane jokhamI samudranuM ATha hajAra mAIlanuM cakkara bacI jAya che. mirAphalorsanA hoja ekaso dasa phUTa pahoLA ane hajA2 phUTa lAMbA che. enI aMdara samAI zake eTalI moTI sTImara panAmAnI naheramAMthI pasAra thaI zake. sittera varSa pahelAM jyAre A hoja bAMdhavAmAM AvyA tyAre te pahelethI eTalA badhA lAMbA ane pahoLA rAkhavAmAM AvyA hatA ke haju paNa moTAmAM moTI sTImaro temAMthI pasAra thaI zake che. duniyAnI moTAmAM moTI sTImaromAM atyAre jenI gaNanA thAya che te "kvIna elijhAbetha - Tu nAmanI Adhunika jabaradasta moTI sTImara ( 105 phUTa pahoLI ane 963 phUTa lAMbI che) paNa panAmAnI naheramAMthI pasAra thaI gaI che. naherano mAtra eka vakhata upayoga karavA mATe eNe 68500 DaoNlaranuM bhADuM cUkavyuM hatuM. sTImaranuM keTalA Tana vajana che te pramANe bhADuM nakkI thAya che. eka sTImaranuM sarerAza bhADuM paMdara hajAra DaoNlara che. panAmAnI naheramAMthI eka vakhata pasAra thavA mATenuM vadhumAM vadhu bhADuM 'elijhAbetha - Tue cUkavyuM che. ane ochAmAM ochuM bhADuM keTaluM cUkavAyuM haze ? mAtra chatrIsa senTa eTale ke pUro eka Dolara paNa nahi. koI sTImaranuM ATaluM ochuM bhADuM to hoI ja na zake. paraMtu A bhADuM cUkavyuM hatuM ricArDa helibarTana nAmanA eka sAhasike I. sa. 1928mAM. eTalAnTika mahAsAgaramAMthI panAmAnI naheramAM taratAM taratAM te pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM dAkhala thayo hato. tene mATe paNa eka hojamAMthI bIjA hojamAM pANInI vadhaghaTa karavAmAM AvI hatI. enuM tyAre advitIya gaNAtuM sAhasa jovA mATe hajAro mANaso ekatra thayA hatA.

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panAmA 143 panAmAnI naheramAM sTImaronI avarajavara joI ame zaheramAM pAchA pharyA. bajAramAM thoDuMka pharyA. eka dukAnamAM bahArathI dekhAya ema gAMdhIjIno moTo phoTo laTakAvelo hato. e jotAM ja amane thayuM ke kadAca koI bhAratIya vepArInI dukAna haze. anumAna sAcuM paDyuM. saurASTranA eka vRddha gujarAtI vepArInI e dukAna hatI. ame emanI sAthe gujarAtI bhASAmAM vAta karI eno amane ane e vepArIne bahu AnaMda thayo. ghaNAM varSothI teo panAmAM jaIne vaselA che. saMjogovazAta teo kyAreya bhArata pAchA AvI zakyA nathI, paraMtu bhArata temane vAraMvAra yAda AvyA kare che. emaNe amAre mATe ThaMDuM pINuM maMgAvyuM ane panAmAmAM kyAM kyAM pharavA jevuM che te samajAvyuM. panAmAmAM nezanala thiyeTara, sTeDiyama, DipArTamenTala sTorsa, carca, sinegoga vagere sthaLoe pharIne ame pAchA pharyA. amArI phalAITa to madharAta pachI hatI eTale koI utAvaLa nahotI. amAro TeksI DrAivara paNa sAro hato. eNe amane nirAMte badhe pheravyAM. sAMje sAteka vAge ame eNrapaoNrTa upara AvI pahoMcyAM. jevI TeksI UbhI rahI ke tarata bIjA TeksI DrAivare AvIne amArA TeksI DrAIvarane spenizamAM kaMIka kahyuM. vAtacIta parathI ema samajAyuM ke bIjA koI gharAka taiyAra che ane emane aMgrejI bolanAra TeksI DrAIvara joIe che. pote jo e gharAkanI sAthe jhaTa nakkI nahi karI le to bIjo koI TeksI DrAivara temane laI jaze. eTale eNe ame jevAM TeksImAMthI UtaryA ke tarata bIjA gharAka sAthe jhaTapaTa TharAvIne TeksImAM besADI dIdhA. eNe amArI sAthe have paisAnI utAvaLa karavA mAMDI. enA avAjamAMthI have vinaya adazya thaI gayo hato. ame TrAvelarsa ceka Apyo. eNe levAnI nA pADI. kahyuM, "atyAre have eNrapaoNrTanI beMka baMdha thaI gaI. huM enA rokaDA karAvavA kyAM jAuM?" je eno prazna hato te amAro paNa prazna hato. eNe TrAvelarsa ceka levAnuM savAre kabUla rAkhyuM hatuM te ame yAda karAvyuM, eTale e mUMjhAyo. paraMtu navA gharAkane moDuM thatuM hatuM eTale eno mijAja badalAyo. savAre ame to zarata karI ja hatI, chatAM have amAre bIjo kaMIka rasto zodhavo rahyo. huM doDyo eraporTanI judI judI dukAnomAM. chevaTe eka dukAnadAre kaMIka kharIdavAnI ane ghaNo ocho bhAva ApavAnI zarate TrAvelarsa ceka levAnI hA pADI. amAre to chUTako ja nahoto. thoDI cokaleTa lIdhI. ceka vaTAvIne eskeleTara upara huM nIce Utarato hato. mane jaIne TeksI DrAivara tarata mArI pAse doDato AvI pahoMcyo. meM enA DaoNlara cUkavyA. laIne e tarata bhAgyo. paraMtu tyAra pachI eNrapaoNrTamAM navA gharAka mATe AMTA mArato te dekhAyo. ame pUchyuM to kahyuM ke TaeNksImAM besADelA enA gharAka bIjA koIkanI TaeNksImAM cAlyA gayA hatA.

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pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe eNrapaoNrTamAM ame lagabhaga ghaNAM vahelAM AvI pahoMcyAM hatAM. amAre mAtra samaya pasAra karavAno rahyo hato. ame eNrapaoNrTamAM pahele ane bIje mALe AvelI, navIna cIja-vastuothI susajja judI judI dukAnomAM cakkara lagAvyA. pravAsIo ochA hatA eTale dukAnomAM giradI nahotI. navI navI cIja-vastuo jovAnI anukULatA hatI. bicArA dukAnadAro ame sAcA gharAka chIe ema samajIne hoMze hoze badhuM batAvatA. paNa pachIthI to ame dukAnamAM pravezatAM ja spaSTatA karI detAM ke "kSamA karajo, mAtra najara karavA ame AvyA chIe, kharIdavA nahi." evAmAM eNrapaoNrTamAM pravezadvAramAM DholanagArAM ane pipUDIono avAja Avyo. eNrapaoNrTamAM vaLI A avAja kyAMthI ? ame nIce jaI joyuM to eka varaghoDo eNrapaoNrTanA makAnamAM dAkhala thaI rahyo hato. emAM keTalAka habasIo hatA; keTalAka jaMgalI kALA AdivAsI jevA lAgatA hatA; gorA ane kALAnI varNasaMka2 prajA jevA gherA bhUriyA jevA paNa keTalAka hatA. zAno A varaghoDo che e samajatAM thoDI vAra lAgI, kema ke iMgliza to koI bole nahi. thoDI vAre samaja paDI ke pAsenA eka gAmano AdivAsI komano eka yuvaka lagna mATe jamAikA TApu jaI rahyo che ane tene vaLAvavA mATe AkhuM gAma AvyuM che. jema jema ToLAnAM mANaso aMdara dAkhala thatAM gayAM tema tema temAMnAM keTalAMka yuvaka-yuvatIoe lokanRtya cAlu karyuM. A AdivAsInuM nRtya paNa jovA jevuM hatuM. emanAM gAmaThI nagArAM-pipUDI vAgatAM jAya ane loko nAcatAM jAya. lagabhaga eka kalAka upara e nRtya cAlyuM. nRtya karanArAMmAMnAM ghaNAMne moDhe sapheda ane lAla raMga lagADIne suzobhana karyuM hatuM. keTalAka zarAbanAM tAnamAM hoya tevuM paNa jaNAyuM. A dRzya jovA mATe bIjA keTalAka pravAsIo paNa vartuLAkAre AsapAsa UbhA rahI gayA ane AdivAsIonA saMgItamAM tALIo vaDe sAtha purAvavA lAgyA. ame paNa temanA kahevAthI tALIono tAla purAvyo. 144 samaya thayo eTale jamAikAnI phalAiTanuM enAunsamenTa thayuM ane jamAikAno jamAI enA be-traNa vaDIlo ane mitro sAthe kasTamsamAM dAkhala thayo. dhIme dhIme ToLuM vIkharAyuM ane je traNa basamAM besIne teo badhAM AvyAM hatAM temAM teo pAchAM pharyAM. eNrapaoNrTamAM pAchI zAMti prasarI gaI. samaya pasAra karavAnI amArI samasyA sahaja rIte UkalI gaI. AdivAsIonI jAna paNa have jeTa vimAnomAM javA lAgI che eTalo duniyAno utkarSa joIne amane harSa thayo. amArI phalAiTanI jAherAta thatAM ame paNa laoNkaramAMthI sAmAna laI kasTamsamAM dAkhala thayAM ane eno vidhi patAvI rio-DijAnero javA vimAnamAM beThAM,

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digaMbara snAna jApAnI bhASAmAM "gAvA' (athavA kAvA) eTale nadI. TokyonI uttare lagabhaga doDhaso mAIla dUra kinugAvA nAmanuM eka atyaMta ramaNIya sthaLa che. tyAM AgaLa kinu nAmanI nAnakaDI nadI vahe che. A sthaLa vizeSa khyAti pAmyuM che tyAMnA garama pANInA jharA mATe. jApAnamAM garama pANInA jharA ghaNe sthaLe che. evA sthaLone "heltha rejhorTa tarIke jApAne vikasAvyAM che. evAM zAMta ane manohara sthaLoe jApAnIo ArAma ane AnaMdapramoda mATe vAraMvAra jatAM hoya che. kinugAvAmAM zarUAtamAM je keTalIka hoTelo baMdhAI temAM nadImAM AvelA garama pANInA jharAmAMthI ja gaMdhakavALuM garama pANI pAipa vATe sIdhuM hoTelamAM lAvI garama pANInA hoja bAMdhavAmAM AvelA. paraMtu tyAra pachI evA hojanI lokapriyatA vadhatAM AsapAsa keTalIye moTI moTI AlIzAna hoTelo baMdhAI. te badhI mATe jharAnuM kudaratI garama pANI lAvavAnuM saraLa nahotuM. eTale pravAsIonA AkarSaNa mATe temAM gaMdhakavALA nahi, paNa sAdA garama pANInA hoja rAkhavAmAM AvyAM. hoTelamAM ja hITara vaDe TAMkImAM garama thayeluM pANI kamara sudhInA UMDA A hojamAM Ave. covIsa kalAka A hoja hoTelanA grAhako mATe khullA hoya. kinugAvAmAM ghaNIkharI hoTelomAM jApAnI paddhatithI rahevAnuM hoya che. kinugAvA onasena' nAmanI eka moTI AlIzAna hoTelamAM amArA utArAnI vyavasthA amArA yajamAnoe karI hatI. hoTelamAM pravezatAM ja daravAjAmAM amArA bUTa kaDhAvI levAmAM AvyA ane amane lAkaDAnI cAkhaDIo paheravA ApavAmAM AvI. rUmamAM gayA pachI tarata amAre jApAnI kimono paheravo paDyo, kAraNa ke hoTelamAM potAnAM gharanAM kapaDAM paherIne pharavAnI manAI hatI. je koI strI-puruSo kinugAvAnI jApAnI paddhatinI hoTelamAM rahevA Ave temanA mATe hoTela taraphathI apAto yuniphaoNrma jevo kimono paheravAnuM lagabhaga pharajiyAta jevuM hoya che. gaLAthI paganI eDI sudhI laTakatA, AgaLathI saLaMga khullA evA jhabhbhAmAM jamaNI bAjunA cheDA upara DAbI pA-10

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146 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe bAjuno cheDo lapeTIne kammare paTTo bAMdhavAno hoya che. strIo ane puruSo mATe kimono ane cAkhaDI ekasarakhAM hoya che. te paherIne hoTelamAM pharavAno anubhava amAre mATe navo hato. kinugAvAmAM AvelA dareka pravAsInI rojanI mahattvanI pravRtti te nAhavAnI ane khAvAnI rahetI. nAhavA mATe badhA hojamAM jatA. amArA jApAnI mitro amane hojamAM nAhavA mATe laI gayA. jatI vakhate meM eka mitrane pUchyuM : "rUmamAM Tovela nathI to tyAM ApaNane Tovela maLaze ke kema ?'' emaNe kahyuM, "TovelanI jarUra nathI. rUmamAM je nepkina hoya te laI lejo; ahIMnI ghaNI hoTelomA Tovelane badale nepkina apAya che.' nepkina laI ame hoja pAse pahoMcyAM. hojamAM badhA puruSoe nagnasnAna karavAnuM che e tyAM pahoMcyA tyAre khabara paDI. bahAra sUcanA lakhI hatI ke zarIke kaMI paNa kapaDuM paherIne hojamAM snAna karavAnI manAI che. AvI rIte jAheramAM nirvastra snAna karavAno amane anubhava nahoto, ethI amane keTalAkane kSobha thayo. amArA jApAnI mitroe kahyuM, "ahIM jApAnamAM A rIte digaMbara snAna karavuM e svAbhAvika che. tamane khAtarI na thatI hoya to pahelAM aMdara jaIne joI Avo ane pachI ThIka lAge to snAna karo." ame aMdara gayA. tyAM pacAseka puruSo vizALa hojamAM digaMbara snAna karatA hatA. garama pANIne lIdhe varALa satata eTalI badhI nIkaLyA karatI hatI ke ghaNA badhA puruSo nahAtA hovA chatAM dekhAtA hatA ochA. jApAnI loko mATe A svAbhAvika hatuM. atyaMta sahaja rIte eka pachI eka pravAsIo AvatA. jhaDapathI kimono utArI tyAM rAkhavAmAM AvelI eka TopalImAM kapaDAM mUkIne snAna karavA jatA. hojanI aMdara eka AkhI dIvAla pAradarzaka kAcanI hatI. tyAMthI bahAra nIce nadInuM ramaNIya dazya najare paDatuM hatuM. sAme kinAre AvelI keTalIka hoTelomAM enA garama pANInA hojamAM pravAsIone AvI rIte snAna karatA joI zakAtA hatA. amArAmAMnA keTalAka e rIte hojamAM snAna karavA gayA. ame traNeka jaNA kSobhane kAraNe snAna karyA vagara pAchA AvyA. rUmamAM AvI bAtharUmamAM ame snAna karI lIdhuM. sAMje jamIne amArA rUmamAM ame beThA hatA tyAre A bAbatanI carcA cAlI. badhAno mata evo hato ke AraMbhamAM kaMIka

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147 digaMbara snAna vicitra lAge, paNa pachI ApaNe TevAI jaIe chIe. amane vicAra Avyo ke ApaNe bhAratamAM digaMbara jaina sAdhuo pAse jaIe chIe tyAre tyAM keTalI zAMti ane svAbhAvikatA pravartatI hoya che ! tyAM vRddha ane yuvAna strIo ane nAnAM bALako paNa hoya che. prathama vAra jonArane thoDo samaya kutUhala rahe. paNa pachI ApaNe enAthI TevAI jaIe chIe. jema pazupakSIone nagna jotAM ApaNane saMkSobha thato nathI, tevuM ja digaMbara sAdhuonI pAse vadhu vakhata rahevAthI anubhavAya che. prAkRta mANasa acalaka hato. vastra e sabhya saMskRtie upajAveluM kRtrima upakaraNa che. mATe nisargadatta avasthAmAM jyAM badhA snAna karatA hoya tyAM ApaNane kSobha thavo na joIe. bIje divase ame paNa digaMbara snAna karavAmAM joDAyA. eka vakhata kSobha ane lajjA gayAM eTale kazuM asvAbhAvika ke vicitra na lAge. amArA eka jApAnI mitre kahyuM, "ahIMnI hoTelomAM mAtra puruSonA hojanI eka dIvAla pAradarzaka kAcanI hoya che evuM nathI. strIonA hojane paNa evI pAradarzaka dIvAla hoya che." pachI emaNe sAmA kinArAnI dUranI eka hoTela tarapha najara karavA kahyuM. tyAM strIo nagnasnAna karI rahI hatI. emaNe kahyuM, "tame bhAratavAsIone A joI bahu navAI lAge, che nahi ? paNa kadAca huM jo kyAMka jovA maLaze to tamane ethI paNa vadhu navAIbharI lAge evI ahIMnI prathA batAvIza." kinugAvAthI ame keTalAka mAIla dUra evI ja bIjI eka nadInA kinAre AvelA kAvAjI nAmanA sthaLe gayAM. tyAM ame "kAzI vAyA" nAmanI eka vizALa adyatana hoTelamAM UtaryA hatAM. garama pANInA hojamAM snAna karI ame jamavA mATe eka vizALa khaMDamAM ekaThAM thayAM. ame beThAM hatAM tyAM pelA jApAnI mitro bAlkanImAM amane laI gayAM. tyAMthI temaNe nIce nadIkinAre thoDe dUra gaMdhakavALA garama pANIno eka kuMDa batAvyo. emaNe kahyuM, "ahIMnI ghaNI hoTelomAM to hITara vaDe garama kareluM pANI hoya che, paraMtu pelo kuMDa to gaMdhakavALA garama pANInA jharAno kuMDa che. jAhera janatA mATe te che. A badhI hoTelomAMthI ane zaheranA rahevAsIomAMthI jemane tyAM nahAvA javuM hoya te jaI zake che. tyAM tame barAbara dhArIne najara karo." ame tyAM najara karI to eka kuMDamAM nirvastra strIo ane puruSo kazA paNa kSobha ke sabhAnatAnA bhAva vinA svAbhAvikatAthI sAthe snAna karI rahelAM dekhAyAM. thoDI thoDI vAre eka pachI eka strI ke puruSa Ave, tarata badhAM vastra utAre ane kuMDamAM nAhavA dAkhala thAya. amArA jApAnI mitre

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148 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe kahyuM, "ahIM jApAnamAM A rIte strIo ane puruSo eka ja hojamAM vastravihIne snAna kare enI amane jarAya navAI nathI." kinugAvA karatAM kAvAjI zahera vadhu UMcAIe AveluM che. pramANamAM te nAnuM ane zAMta che. tyAMnI naisargika zobhA kinugAvA karatAM kaMIka vizeSa bhavya che. kAvAjIthI ame nikono dhodha joI Tokyo pAchA pharyA. tyAthI have amAro kAryakrama dakSiNamAM AvelA jApAnanA pugu TApunA pravAse javAno hato. tyAM beppa TApunuM beDu zahera, Aso jvALAmukhI, kumAmoTono killo ane nAgAsAkI zahera jovA ame javAnAM hatAM. beppa e TharI gayelA jvALAmukhI upara vaseluM zahera che. Aje paNa tyAM ghaNe sthaLe covIsa kalAka satata dhumADA nIkaLyA kare che. A zahera enA vividha prakAranA garama pANInA jharA (jApAnI zabda che "jIgoku', eno artha thAya che "naraka) mATe prakhyAta che. beThumAM enI sauthI vikhyAta hoTela te 'suginoI hoTela che. zaheranA UMcAmAM UMcA vistAramAM DuMgaranA DhoLAva upara te bAMdhavAmAM AvI che. aDoaDa AvelAM traNa vizALa makAnamAM te karelI che. suginoI hoTela pote ja beppanuM eka jovA jevuM sthaLa che. hoTelo kevI hoI zake teno te eka vilakSaNa namUno che. A hoTelamAM yUjhiyama, thiyeTara, pizcara-hAusa, ArTa gelerI, DAnsiga haoNla, bagIco, svimiMga pula, sloTa mazInovALo emyujhamenTa vibhAga, dukAno, resTorAMo, garama pANInA bAtha vagere badhA vibhAgo jotAM ja aDadho divasa lAge. A hoTelanuM eka mahattvanuM lakSaNa te enA bAthe che. kinugAvA ke kAvAjImAM hoTelomAM garama pANImAM nAhavA mATe strIo mATe ane puruSo mATe ema be sAdA hoja che. ahIM suginoI hoTelamAM to AvA cAreka sAdA paNa AkarSaka racanAvALA hoja to che ja, je covIsa kalAka khullA rahe che. paraMtu te uparAMta ahIM "jaMgalabAtha" ane "phalAvarabAtha' nAmanA be ghaNA vizALa ane bhavya bAtha che. duniyAmAM haju sudhI AvA bAtha bIje kyAMya koI hoTelanI aMdara jovA maLyA nathI. ame hoTelamAM pahoMcI, rUmamAM cApANI karI, kimono paherI nIkaLyA. kapaDAM utArI jaMgalabAthamAM nAhavA gayA. tyAM lagabhaga doDhaso jeTalA puruSo, keTalAka potAnAM nAnAM chokarAMo sAthe snAna karavA AvyA hatA. badhI vastrarahita hatAM. A hoTelamAM jaMgalabAthamAM kharekhara jaMgala jevuM AbehUba dRzya racavAmAM AvyuM che. emAM nALiyerInAM keTalAMka vRkSa ugADavAmAM AvyAM che. uparAMta

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digaMbara snAna 149 vividha prakAranAM nAnAMmoTAM vRkSo, phUla-choDa, velA vagere paNa ugADavAmAM AvyAM che. emAM nAhavA mATe eka nahi paNa sAteka nAnAmoTA, ghUMTaNa ke kamara sudhInA pANIvALA hoja banAvavAmAM AvyA che. koIkamAM pANI ekadama garama che, koIkamAM mAphakasaranuM che ane koIkamAM ThaMDuM che. - A uparAMta koIka hojamAM pANImAM nIce nAnA lIsA patharA ane kAMkarAo rAkhavAmAM AvyA che ke jethI emAM nahAtI ane cAlatI vakhate paganAM taLiyAM lIsA kAMkarAone aDe ane nadImAM hoIe evo kudaratI anubhava thAya. koIka hojamAM vacce ramavA mATe merI-go rAunDa, lapasaNI, sI-so, hIMcakA vagerenI racanA karavAmAM AvI che. koIka ThekANe masAja mATe hArabaMdha ATha-dasa naLamAMthI dhodhanI jema pANI paMdareka phUTa UMcethI satata paDe che. jemaNe jorathI paDatA pANI vaDe mastaka, Doka, kammara ke hAthapage mAlisa karavuM hoya, te AvA naLa nIce UbhA rahe che. eka jagyAe nAnAMmoTAM saune mATe moTI lapasaNI karavAmAM AvI che, jemAM vahetAM pANI sAthe mANasa uparanA hojamAMthI bAreka phUTa nIce, nIcenA hojamAM lasarI zake che. A jaMgalabAthamAM eka jagyAe garama retIno akhADo karavAmAM Avyo che. temAM ThaMDI ane nIce jatAM vadhu ane vadhu garama evI bhInI retI rAkhavAmAM AvI che. jeo retIno zeka levA IcchatA hoya temAM sUIne potAnuM AkhuM zarIra retIthI DhAMkI de che ane e rIte zeka laI zake che. jema vadhAre garamI joIe tema pAvaDA vaDe retI vadhAre UMDe sudhI khaseDIne sUI zakAya che. retIno zeka lIdhA pachI, zeka lenArAo mATe bAjumAM bIjA be judA hoja rAkhavAmAM AvyA che. pahelA hojamAM nAhIne zarIre coTelI retI kADhI nAkhavAnI hoya che te pachI cokhkhA pANInA hojamAM pharI vAra nAhavAnuM hoya che. hojanI racanA ja evI kramabaddha karavAmAM AvI che ke retImnAna karyA pachI pUrA svaccha thayA pachI ja bIjA koI hojamAM nAhavA jaI zakAya che. retIsnAna uparAMta uSNasnAna ke varALasnAnanI icchA hoya temane mATe tevI vyavasthA paNa karavAmAM Ave che. vizALa pAyA upara karelI A racanAmAM jaMgala jevuM vAtAvaraNa kareluM che. siMha, haraNa, hAthI, gAya, bakarI vagere prANIonAM moTAM raMgaberaMgI pUtaLAM banAvIne vRkSonI vacce mUkavAmAM AvyAM che. eka hojamAM vacce mAchalIghara paNa banAvavAmAM AvyuM che. bIjA eka hoja pAse jApAnI paddhatino (jApAnamAM miyAjImAmAM samudranA pANImAM che tevo) lAkaDAno lAla raMgano daravAjo paNa banAvavAmAM Avyo che. eka holanI vacce dhyAnastha

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1pa0 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe beThelA bhagavAna buddhanI moTI pratimA che, je yaMtra vaDe cAreya dizAmAM satata pharatI rahe che. jaMgalabAthanI AkhI racanA eka vizALa jagyAmAM karavAmAM AvI che, ane te ghaNA UMcA, ardhavartuLAkAra, pAradarzaka chAparA vaDe baMdha karavAmAM AvI che. temAM vacce kyAMya thAMbhalo nathI. Akho jaMgalabAtha eNrakanDizanDa che. dUSita havA paMkhAo vaDe satata bahAra kaDhAya che. jaMgalabAthamAM nAhatAM pahelAM ke nAhyA pachI jemaNe sAbuthI nahAvuM hoya temane mATe ThaMDA ane garama pANInA naLa che. hajAmata karavI hoya temane mATe tyAM sAbu, braza ane astrA paNa rAkhavAmAM AvyAM hoya che. puruSonA bAthanI aMdara sAphasUphanuM kAma satata cAlyA karatuM hoya che, ane e kAma mATenI strIone paNa nokarIe rAkhavAmAM AvI che. ATalA badhA nagna puruSo vacce kAma karatI e strIo keTalI sAhajikatAthI potAnuM kAma karatI hoya che! bAthanI bahAra vizALa khaMDamAM mAthAmAM nAkhavAnuM tela, krIma, zeviMga lozana, hera-DrAyara, masAja-cersa, kImatI cIjavastuo mUkavA mATe laoNkarsa, vajana karavAnA kAMTA, ThaMDAM ane garama pINAM tathA biskiTa vagere joIe to te mATenAM oNTomeTika sloTa mazIno, samaya pasAra karavA mATe raMgIna TI.vI. seTa, ramatagamatanA sAdhano, TI.vI. gemsa ityAdinI suvidhA paNa che. suginoIno jaMgalabAtha eTale ke jANe koI bAdazAhI yojanA. emAM snAna karavA janAra enAthI prabhAvita thayA vinA rahe ja nahi. daSTipUrvakanuM Ayojana keTaluM sarasa hoI zake teno A eka uttama namUno che.

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samayano savAla zikAgothI ame muMbaI AvatAM hatAM. amArI pAse muMbaI-nyUyaeNrka-muMbaInI pAna-amerikana kaMpanInI TikiTa hatI. zikAgothI nyU rkanI yunAiTeDa eNralAinsanI TikiTa hatI. eTale ke amAre nyUyaeNrka vimAna badalavAnuM hatuM. yunAITeDa eralAInse amane kahyuM, "tame tamAro sAmAna sIdho muMbaI mATe ApI zako cho. nyUyaeNrkamAM pAna-amerikananI phalAiTamAM tamAro sAmAna ApoApa TrAnsaphara thaI jaze." amane e vAta gamI, kAraNa ke sAmAna levA-ApavAno samaya bacatAM nyUyorkamAM zaheramAM javA mATe amane pUratA kalAka maLatA hatA. zikAgothI savAre nyUyaoNrka javA mATe ame vimAnamAM beThAM. nyUyorkamAM keneDI eraporTa UtarI tyAMthI zaheramAM javA mATe TrenamAM besI enA chellA sTezane ame UtaryA ane bahAra nIkaLI 63mI sTrITamAM amArA mitra jagadIzabhAI dozIne ghare pahoMcyAM. jagadIzabhAInA patnI sudhAbahene amAruM umaLakAbharyuM svAgata karyuM. lagabhaga bAra vAgI gayA hatA. sAMje sADA-cha vAgyAnI pAna amerikananI phalAiTa muMbaI mATe amAre pakaDavAnI hatI. jamIne ame ArAma karatAM hatAM tyAM mArAM patnIe pUchyuM, "kalAkano samaya hoya to huM sudhAbahena sAthe bajAramAM jaI AvuM? ghara mATe thoDI kharIdI karavI che." khuzIthI, kalAkane badale doDha kalAka lezo to paNa vAMdho nathI; barAbara traNa vAge AvI jajo, kAraNa ke kalAka pahelAM ApaNe eraporTa para pahoMcavuM joIe ane doDhathI be kalAkano rasto eNrapaoNrTa sudhIno che." sudhAbahena sAthe mArAM patnI gayAM. kalAkano samaya to ghaDIkamAM pasAra thaI gayo. traNane badale sADA-traNa vAgyA, chatAM teo AvyAM nahi. dhAryA karatAM moDuM thAya e svAbhAvika hatuM, kAraNa ke strIo jyAre kharIdI karavAmAM paDe che tyAre kALa jANe sthagita thaI jAya che. paraMtu cAra vAgavA AvyA tyAre huM thoDo ciMtita thayo, kAraNa ke eraporTa para pahoMcavA mATe have moDuM thaI rahyuM hatuM. eTalI vAramAM mArAM patnI ane sudhAbahena AvI pahoMcyAM; bolyAM, "tame amane traNa vAge AvavAnuM kahyuM hatuM, paraMtu ame to dasa miniTa vahelAM AvyAM chIe."

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152 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe traNa nahi paNa cAra thavA AvyA. barAbara juo ghaDiyALamAM." meM kahyuM. ghaDiyALamAM joIne mArAM patnIe kahyuM, "cAra nahi, haju traNa ja vAgavA AvyA che." sudhAbahenanA hAthe ghaDiyALa na hatI. huM majAka karato nathI evuM joI teo mUMjhavaNamAM paDyAM. tyAM mArI patnIe kahyuM, "are ! hA, sAcI vAta. cAra vAgavA AvyA. mArI ghaDiyALamAM to haju zikAgono ja TAima che. nyUyaoNrka UtaratAM meM TAIma badalyo nathI, che ?" have tarata ja, be-pAMca miniTanA ApaNe nIkaLavuM joIe. nahi to phalAITa cUkI jaIzuM." amerikAmAM sAnaphrAnsisako, zikAgo ane nyUyorka e traNenA TAIma judA judA hoya che. vaLI unALAmAM ane ziyALAmAM e traNenA TAima pAchA badalAya che. amerikana lokone ghaDiyALamAM samaya pheravavAno mahAvaro hoya che. videzanI sapharamAM deza pramANe samaya badalAto rahe che. vimAnamAM sthAnika samayanI jAherAta acUka thatI hoya che. te vakhate ja potAnI ghaDiyALamAM samaya badalI levAnI TevathI muzkelI UbhI thatI nathI. meM samaya badalI lIdho hato, paraMtu mArAM patnIe badalyo nahoto tethI A garabaDa thaI. ame tarata nIkaLIe topaNa lagabhaga cha vAge eraporTa pahoMcIe. muMbaI mATenI phalAITo bharAyelI jAya che eTale vimAna UpaDavAnA aDadhA kalAka agAu pravAsI na Ave to vimAna kaMpanI te beThaka bIjAne ApI daI zake che. amArI beThaka bIjA koIne na apAI jAya tenI ciMtA sAthe ame nIkaLyAM. makAna nIcethI ame relave-sTezana sudhInI TeksI karI. javAdIzabhAInuM ghara "rIjansI TAvarsa eTale zrImaMtonuM nivAsasthAna. TeksImAM besatI vakhate paNa cokIdAro ane paTAvALAo salAma bhare, tyAMnA rahevAsIo sAmAnya rIte potAnI gADImAM eNrapaoNrTa jatA hoya. ene badale ame TrenamAM eNrapaoNrTa javA icchIe chIe enI TeksIvALAne navAI lAgI. eNe kahyuM, "keneDI eNrapaoNrTa sudhI TaeNksI laI lauM, sAheba ?" nA, bhAI ! e to bahu dUra kahevAya, ane keneDI eraporTa mATenI eksapresa TrenanA sTezane utArI de." "paNa sAheba, Aja baporathI badhI Treno baMdha thaI gaI che. kaMIka garabaDa lAge che; bolo zuM karavuM che ?" TeksI-DrAivaranI vAta sAMbhaLI amArI ciMtA vadhI. phalAiTa cUkI jaIe to AMtararASTrIya vimAna-TikiTa rada thatI nathI. kaMpanI bIjI koI *

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samayano savAla 153 phalAiTamAM ApaNane besADavA baMdhAyelI hoya che, paraMtu bIjI phalAiTa kyAre maLe teno prazna hato. eNrapaoNrTathI nyUyaoNrka zaheramAM pAchA AvIne rahevuM paDe tathA sAmAna muMbaInA eNrapaoNrTa para UtarI 'anableinDa begeja'mAM cAlyo jAya te tyAMthI pAcho meLavavAno prazna paNa Ubho thAya. (bIjA dezo karatAM bhAratamAM e vadhAre kaDAkUTavALo prazna che.) vaLI muMbaI tarata TUMkakaoNla karIne ghare khabara ApI devI paDe, jethI eNrapaoNrTa para koI teDavA na Ave. A badhA prazno amArAM cittane gherI levA lAgyA. DrAivare pharIthI pUchyuM, "eNrapaoNrTa upara lauM sAheba ?'' enA bolavAnA bhAva parathI mArA cittamAM acAnaka vicA2 jhabakyo ke DrAivara kadAca jANIjoIne jUThuM to nahi bolato hoya, eNrapaoNrTa sudhInA gharAka meLavavA ? Ama paNa Treina karatAM TaeNksImAM vadhAre vAra lAgavAnI hatI. moDuM thayuM hatuM eTale TaeNksImAM. gayA pachI phalAiTa maLe ke kema te prazna to hato ja. to pachI TaeNksImAM ATalA badhA DaoNlara zA mATe kharcavA ? meM kahyuM, "amane relave-sTezana para ja utArI do." relave-sTezana cAlatAM jaI zakAya eTaluM pAse ja hatuM. samaya bacAvavA ame TaeNksI karI, paraMtu DrAivara je rIte TaeNksI haMkArato hato te parathI lAgyuM ke te jANI-joIne ekamArgIya galIomAM TaeNksI ghusADe che, jethI TaeNksInuM cakkara vadhe ane enuM bhADuM paNa vadhe. ema karatAM to relave-sTezana karatAM ame thoDe dUra nIkaLI gayAM. DrAivarane meM pharI yAda apAvyuM ke "amAre eNrapaoNrTanI Trena mATenA sTezane pahoMcavuM che." paraMtu eNe bIjA koIka relave-sTezana pAse amane utAryAM. sTezanamAM jaIne joyuM to te upanagaranI Treno mATenuM sTezana hatuM, eNrapaoNrTa mATenuM nahi. te to be blaoNka jeTaluM dUra hatuM. bahArI nIkaLI ame cAlatAM cAlatAM daseka miniTe tyAM pahoMcyAM. tapAsa karI to jaNAyuM ke Treno baMdha thavAnI vAta taddana khoTI hatI. Trena hamaNAM ja UpaDI gaI hatI ane bIjI Trena vIsa miniTa pachI maLavAnI hatI. Ama pratyeka Dagale samaya veDaphAto jato hato. ame lAcAra hatA. eka kalAkano Trenano rasto ane tyAMthI eNrapaoNrTanI basamAM besI amerikananA Tarminala bilDiMga sudhI pahoMcavAnI bIjI dasapaMdara miniTa joIe. have bIjo vadhu kaMI samaya na bagaDe topaNa barAbara sADA cha vAge pahoMcAya ane e to phalAiTa UpaDavAno samaya hato. amane thayuM ke have to phalAiTa acUka cUkI jaIzuM. AzA bilakula na hatI. paraMtu TrenamAM beThAM chIe eTale eNrapaoNrTa sudhI pahoMcIne ja pAchAM pharavAnuM rahyuM hatuM. TrenamAM Akhe raste ame prArthanA ane navakAramaMtrano jApa karatAM rahyAM.

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154 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe Trena barAbara samayasara pahoMcI. eNraporTanI basamAM judA judA TarminalanA utAruonI avarajavarane lIdhe basamAM dhAryA karatAM lagabhaga dasa miniTa vadhAre lAgI. amArA TarminalamAM pahoMcIne tarata pAna-amerikananA kAunTara upara ame gayAM. tyAM karmacArIe kahyuM, "mApha karajo, vimAna UpaDavAnI taiyArImAM che ane kAunTara baMdha thaMI gayuM che." ame mUMjhavaNamAM to hato ja. AzA choDI dIdhI hatI, eTale vadhAre mUMjhavaNanuM kAraNa na hatuM. paraMtu eka vicAra sUjhayo. meM kasTamsanA pharaja paranA oNphisarane kahyuM, "amArI phalAITa mATenuM kAunTara baMdha thaI gayuM che. paraMtu ame amAro sAmAna zikAgothI ApI dIdho che. to amAre mATe koI zakyatA che ?" amArI TikiTa joI oNphisare kahyuM, "oha, ema vAta che ? to tamAre kAunTara para javAnI kaMI ja jarUra nathI. tame sIdhA kasTamsanI aMdara jaIne borDiMga ophisarane maLo. jo te kaMI karI zake to judI vAta che." ame kasTamsamAM dAkhala thayAM. amArI phalAITa mATenI baoNrDiMga ophisara yuvatIne ame maLyAM, eNe kahyuM, "badhA utAruo besI gayA che ane temanI gaNatarI thaI rahI che. te pUrI thatAM eka-be miniTamAM ja daravAjo baMdha thaze ane vimAna UpaDaze. vaLI ikonomI klAsanI tamArI beThaka bIjAne apAI gaI che. eTale kSamA karajo, have kazuM thaI zake tema nathI." ' kahyuM, "amAro sAmAna A ja plenamAM jaI rahyo che. vaLI yunAiTeDa eNralAinse kahyuM ke ame klipara klAsa(ikonomI ane phasTa vaccenA kalAsa)mAM paNa besI zakIe chIe." amArI TikiTa pharIthI jhINavaTapUrvaka joI tathA beThakonA cArTamAM joI oNphisara yuvatIe kahyuM, "oha, yu Ara lakI. klipara klAsamAM be beThaka khAlI che. doDo mArI sAthe." amArA baoNrDiMga kArDa sAthe oNphisara yuvatI amane vimAnamAM laI gaI. utAruonI gaNatarI karanArane kahyuM, TU mora pesenjarsa phaoNra baoNmbe." ame amArI beThakamAM beThAM. nirAMtano lAMbo zvAsa lIdho. vimAnano daravAjo baMdha thayo. amAruM vimAna laMDana ane phrenkapharTa thaIne muMbaI AvavA mATe UpaDyuM. amArI kharI kasoTI thaI, paraMtu vimAna cUkyAM nahi eTale enA atyAnaMdamAM badhuM vIsarI jhaTa jhaTa muMbaI ghare pahoMcavAnAM svapnamAM garakAva thaI gayAM. | videzapravAsamAM samayAntaranI jarAka saratacUkane kAraNe kevI acAnaka mUMjhavaNabharI paristhiti UbhI thAya che !

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3 riomAM rAtre brAjhilanuM pATanagara have brAjhiliyA che. enuM jUnuM pATanagara te rio-Di-jAnIro (athavA riyo-da-jAnero). brAjhilanuM te have rAjadvArI pATanagara nathI, paraMtu sAMskRtika pATanagara jarUra che. brAjhilanuM te moTAmAM moTuM nagara che. leTina amerikAno khaMDa saikAo pahelAM porTugIjha ane speniza lokoe zodhyo ane tyAM vasavATa karyo eTale AkhA leTina amerikAnI bhASA speniza ane porTugIjha rahI che. porTugIjha nAviko porTugalathI nIkaLI dakSiNa amerikAnA brAjhilanA A kinAre pahoMcyA tyAre jAnyuArI mahino cAlato hato. A suMdara sthaLa pAse nadI ane samudrano saMgama thAya che. jAnyuArI mahinAmAM temaNe ahIM nadI joI, eTale e nadInuM nAma temaNe ' rio-Di-jAnIro' eTale ke "jAnyuArI mahinAnI nadI' evuM ApyuM. "riyo eTale nadI. "Di jAnIro' eTale 'jAnyuArInI' mULa nadIne mATe apAyeluM "rio-Di-jAnIro' evuM A nAma pachI to tyAM vaselA zahera mATe pracalita banI gayuM. rio-Di-jAnIro zahera tenA judA judA svaccha vizALa ane lAMbA samudrataTane lIdhe, AsapAsa AvelI nAnI-moTI TekarIone lIdhe tathA samudramAM pAse AvelA nAnA nAnA beTone lIdhe duniyAnAM keTalAMka atyaMta raLiyAmaNAM zaheromAMnuM eka zahera gaNAya che. riomAM pI.I.ena.nI AMtararASTrIya pariSadanuM adhivezana 1979nA julAImAM yojAyuM hatuM. emAM bhAratIya pratinidhi tarIke bhAga levA huM ane mArAM patnI gayAM hatAM. amAro utAro samudrakinAre phalAmeMgo vistAramAM AvelI suprasiddha hoTela "gloriyAmAM hato. hoTelanI sAme ja vizALa ramaNIya samudrataTa che. hoTelamAMthI rasto oLaMgIne sAme samudrataTamAM pharavA jaI zakAya. samudranA kinAre kinAre pUrANa (Reclaim) karIne vAhanavyavahAra mATe A navo saLaMga lAMbo rasto banAvavAmAM Avyo che. pariSadane Agale divase ame rio pahoMcI gayAM hatAM. ghaNAkharA

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1pa6 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe pratinidhio bIje divase AvavAnA hatA. eTale e Agale divase svecchAe pharavAno kAryakrama hato. amane jANavA maLyuM ke hoTela parathI zaheramAM jhaverAtanA eka suvikhyAta zo-rUmamAM jene javuM hoya tene mATe TeksInI maphata sagavaDa rAkhavAmAM AvI che. kharIdI karavAnuM koI baMdhana nahotuM. ame TeksImAM tyAM pahoMcI gayAM. e bahAne zaheramAM pharavA maLaze evo Azaya paNa hato. jhaverAtanI dukAne kharIdI karavAnI nahotI amArI koI icchA ke nahotI zakti. phugAvAne kAraNe bhArata karatAM vastuonA bhAva ahIM brAjhilamAM cAra gaNA vadhAre hatA. pAMca mALavALA zo-rUmamAM thoDI vAra pharIne ame nIce UtarI gayAM. amArI muzkelI have zarU thaI, kAraNa ke ahIM rastAmAM koIne aMgrejI AvaDe nahi ane amane porTugIjha AvaDe nahi. pAchAM pharavA mATe kaI basa pakaDavI te prazna thaI paDyo. tA1 karavA mATe darekane sauthI pahelo savAla karIe : Du yu spIka iMgliza ?" ane javAbamAM badhAnI "nA" ja AvatI. pharatAM pharatAM kaoNphInI eka dukAne ame pahocyAM. rastA para loko ghaDIka UbhAM UbhAM kAcanI nAnI pyAlImAM dUdha vagaranI kaDavI kALI kaoNphImAM pAMcasAta camacI khAMDa nAMkhIne pI jatA. brAjhilanA loko dArU karatAM kALI kaoNphInA vadhu zokhIna che. amAre kaoNphImAM dUdha joItuM hatuM, paNa dukAnadAra samaje to ne ? kAraNa ke amane dUdha mATeno porTugIjha zabda AvaDato nahoto. AsapAsanA bIjA koI mANaso paNa amArI vAta samajatA nahotA. evAmAM eka yuvatI amArI pAse AvI. te bhAratIya hatI. tenI sAthe iMglizamAM vAta karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke te govAnI vatanI hatI, ane rionI eka baeNnkamAM nokarI karavA mATe bhAratathI AvI hatI. brAjhilanI jema govAmAM porTugIjhonuM rAjya hatuM, eTale keTalAka govAvAsIo brAjhilamAM jaIne vasyA che. A govAnI yuvatIne iMgliza ane porTugIjha baMne bhASA sArI AvaDatI. oNphisethI chUTIne te ghera jatI hatI, paraMtu ghaNA vakhate amane bhAratIya lokone joIne tene AMnada thayo. dUdha mATe porTugIjha zabda "leiTe ane garama mATe kelienTa - e eNe amane zikhavADyA. amArI sAthe kaoNphI ane nAsto eNe lIdhAM. lagabhaga be kalAka te amArI sAthe pharI ane amArA dubhASiyA tarIke teNe kAma karyuM. kevI rIte basamAM besI gleriyA hoTela upara pahoMcI zakAya te eNe amane samajAvyuM. rio zaheranAM eNe bahu vakhANa karyA. loko bahu premALa ane maLatAvaDA che, paraMtu keTalAka vakhatathI riomAM je guMDAgIrI

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riomAM rAtre 157 vadhatI jAya che tenI vAta paNa karI. basamAM besatAM pAkITa corAI javAnA ke strIonI gaLAnI cena kheMcAI javAnA ane keTalIka vakhata to strI ke puruSanA hAthamAMthI pAkITa jhUMTavIne bhAgI javAnA banAvo ghaNA vadhatA jAya che te tarapha amAruM dhyAna kheMcyuM. gorAo ane vizeSa to kALA nIgronI A pravRtti kevI vadhatI jAya che tenA keTalAka prasaMgo kahyA. ekAMta rastAmAM ekalA na nIkaLavA mATe eNe amane salAha ApI. ame teno AbhAra mAnyo. e mATe eNe zIkhavelo porTugIjha zabda kahyo : 'oNbrigArdo' (AbhAra). vidAya laIne te amArAMthI chUTI paDI. hoTelamAM rUmamAM ame pahoMcyAM tyAre tyAM amArA mATe eka nimaMtraNakArDa paDyuM hatuM. rionA myunisipala korporezane pacAsa varSa pUrve bAMdhelA thiyeTaranI suvarNajayaMtIno kAryakrama hato. brAjhilanAM suprasiddha naTa-naTIo temAM upasthita rahevAnAM hatAM. sAthe saMgItano paNa temAM kAryakrama hato. tapAsa karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke sthAnika loko mATe lagabhaga 400 rUpiyA jeTalI TikiTa A kAryakramanI hatI. AvA kAryakramanuM nimaMtraNa maLe to evI taka gumAvavAnuM koIne na game e svAbhAvika che. thiyeTaramAM javA-AvavAnI vyavasthA dareke potAnI meLe karavAnI hatI. hoTelathI cAlatAM paMdareka miniTanA raste thiyeTara hatuM. hoTelanA risepzanisTe nakazAmAM amane batAvyuM te pramANe samudranA kinAre kinAre rasto cAlyo jato ane tyAMthI be vaLAMka letAM thiyeTara AvatuM hatuM. samaya thaI gayo hato eTale jamIne TaeNksI karIne tarata e thiyeTara para pahoMcyAM. brAjhilanA rASTrapati pote A kAryakramamAM pramukha tarIke upasthita rahyA hatA. bIjA keTalAka pradhAno paNa AvyA hatA. vAghasaMgItanA kAryakramamAM brAjhilanA suprasiddha vAdako oNrkesTrAmAM vAMjitro vagADanAra hatA. eka pachI eka zravaNamadhura vAnagIo rajU thaI. naTanaTIone inAmo apAyAM. pratyeka naTa ke naTI vividha AkarSaka vezabhUSAmAM susajja thayAM hatAM. tALIonA gaDagaDATathI Akho vakhata thiyeTara guMjatuM rahyuM. kAryakrama pUro thayo. rAtanA sADAbAra vAgyA hatA. ekasAthe ghaNAbadhA mANaso chUTe eTale TaeNksInI achata varatAya. vaLI amAre mATe bhASAno prazna paNa hato. najIkanA aMtara mATe TaeNksIvALA AvavA rAjI nahi. ame vicAra karyo ke hoTela sudhI cAlI nAkhIe. sAme ja gloriyA hoTelanuM niyona lAiTavALuM borDa vaMcAtuM hatuM. AsapAsa vasati paNa ghaNI dekhAtI hatI eTale kazo vAMdho na hato.

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158 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe ame thoDuMka cAlyAM, paraMtu hoTela to jANe eTalI ne eTalI ja dUra dekhAtI hatI. thiyeTaramAMthI mANaso chUTyAM hatAM. eTale thoDI vAra vasati ghaNI lAgI, paraMtu pAMceka miniTamAM to badhI vasati jANe adazya thavA lAgI. jema jema ame AgaLa cAlyAM tema tema rastA paranI mANasonI avarajavara baMdha thatI gaI. huM ane mArAM patnI - ame be ja have rastA para cAlavAvALAM hatAM. madharAtano samaya hato. sAMje pelI govAnI yuvatIe jokhamanI vAta karI hatI eTale manamAM phALa paDavA lAgI. huM pote svastha hato. mArAM patnIne Dara lAge e svAbhAvika hatuM, kAraNa ke ajANI jagyA hatI, riomAM A pahelI rAta hatI, bhASAthI ajANa hatAM, madharAtano vakhata hato ane vAtAvaraNa DarAve tevuM hatuM. mArAM patnIe gaLAno cena na dekhAya e rIte sADI mAthe oDhI lIdhI. meM mArI kAMDA-ghaDiyALa koTanI bAMya nIce sarakAvI dIdhI. ame phUTapAtha para cAlatAM hatAM. A navA banAvelA rastA para koI gharo na hatAM. baMne bAju koI koI moTara jhaDapathI pasAra thaI jatI hatI. Akhe raste amArA sivAya koI cAlatuM dekhAtuM na hatuM. ame jhaDapathI cAlatAM hatAM. gloriyA hoTela to najara sAme dekhAtI hatI, paraMtu vAraMvAra AvatA vaLAMkone lIdhe e aMtara jANe khUTatuM na hoya tema lAgatuM hatuM. aDadhuM aMtara ema kApyuM haze tyAM rastAmAM eka sthaLe be UMcA bihAmaNA nIgro UbhelA hatA. amArI sAme dhArIdhArIne teo jotA hatA, paraMtu kadAca ame videzI chIe ema paheraveza parathI samajIne kutUhalathI paNa jotA hoya; zI khabara paDe ? Avo prasaMge ApaNA caherA uparathI svasthatA gumAvavAthI UlaTAno bIjAne vahema paDe. ame jANIjoIne moTethI vAto karatAM cAlatAM rahyAM ane temanI AgaLathI pasAra thaI gayAM. thoDI vAre ame hoTela para pahoMcI gayAM. hoTelanAM pagathiyAM caDatAM ame rAhatano dama kheMcyo. paraMtu Akhe raste je bhaya ane ciMtAnuM vAtAvaraNa anubhavyuM hatuM tenA vicAro manamAMthI khasatA na hatA. thoDI vAra vadhAre UbhAM rahIne ke koIkanI madada mAgIne paNa thiyeTara pAsethI TeksI karI hota to sAruM hatuM, ema have lAgyuM. bIje divase savAre pena koMgresanI amArI pahelI beThaka cAlu thaI. sthAnika maMtrIe keTalIka vyavahAra sUcanAo ApI; pachI badhA pratinidhione khAsa bhalAmaNa karatAM kahyuM : "hoTelanI sAme raLiyAmaNo samudrataTa che. tyAM tamane badhAne avazya pharavAnuM mana thAya evuM che, paraMtu tyAM koIe ekalAM

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riomAM rAtre 159 pharavA javuM nahi. Aje savAre sAta vAge eka phrenca pratinidhi yuvatI tyAM ekalI pharavA gaI tyAre tenuM pAkITa koI jhUMTavI gayuM che. Avo banAva pharIthI na bane te mATe tamane salAhabharI cetavaNI che." eTalAmAM eka pratinidhi UbhA thayA. teo maMtrI pAse gayA ane emanI sAthe kaMIka vAta karI. e sAMbhaLIne tarata maMtrI bolyA, "mApha karajo, lUMTano bIjo eka banAva paNa banyo che. gaI kAle rAtre myunisipala korporezananA kAryakramamAMthI chUTIne A osTreliyana pratinidhi TeksI na maLI eTale rAtanA ekalA cAlatA pAchA AvatA hatA tyAre rastAmAM be nIgroe emanuM pAkITa ane ghaDiyALa lUMTI lIdhAM che. emanA traNaso DaoNlara gayA che. ame polIsamAM phariyAda karIzuM, paNa enAthI bahu vaLaze nahi. tamane badhAne khAsa bhalAmaNa che ke tamArA pAsaporTa, vimAnanI TikiTa, TrAvelarsa ceka vagere badhuM barAbara saMbhALIne rAkhazo. e sAcavavA mATe pena koMgresanI oNphisamAM athavA hoTelanA risepzanisTa pAse paNa vyavasthA che." miTiMga pUrI thatAM e oNsTreliyana pratinidhine ame maLyAM. ame amArA anubhavanI emane vAta karI. emaNe karelA varNana parathI nizcita thayuM ke e ja be nIgro hatA, je amane dhArIdhArIne jotA hatA. ame sadbhAgye bacI gayAnI lAgaNI anubhavI. lUMTAyA hota to amArI zI dazA thAta teno vicAra amArAM cittane ghaDIka kaMpAvI gayo.

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sAvo pAka . nAirobIthI mombAsA jatAM rastAmAM baMne bAju sAvo pArkanuM pATiyuM vaMcAya che. pahelI vAra AphrikA janArane rastAnI baMne bAju ujjaDa verAnamAM AvuM pATiyuM vAMcIne navAI lAge. A te kevI jAtano pArka ke dUra dUra sudhI nahi koI vanaspati ke nahi khAsa koInI avarajavara. eka nAnuM sarakhuM beThA ghATanuM makAna sAvo pArkanI nizAnI pAse dekhAya, eTaluM ja. mombAsAthI basamAM ame lagabhaga cAlIseka strI-puruSo sAvo pArka jovA mATe gayAM tyAre e pArkano vadhAre vAstavika khyAla Avyo. A pArka te hAthI, jirApha, haraNa, geMDo, vAgha, siMha, citto vagere jaMgalI prANIone kudaratI vAtAvaraNamAM chUTAM pharatAM jovA mATenI eka vizALa jagyA che. aMdara dUra dUra eTale sudhI javAnuM che ke basamAM ke moTaramAM ja javuM paDe. vAhanane dAkhala thavA mATeno rasto ja mAtra daravAjA vaDe AMtarelo che. bAjumAM TikiTaophisa che. ghaNuMkharuM savAre vAhano aMdara dAkhala thaI jAya teTalA pUratuM ja e ophisanuM kAma. vAhanono rasto rokI lIdhA pachI AsapAsa mAIlo sudhI koI vADa karavAnI jarUra paNa nahi, kAraNa ke page cAlIne to koNa aMdara javAnuM hatuM ? balka, ema javAmAM to jAnanuM jokhama hoya che. te amArA AphrikI DrAivare kahyuM hatuM ke prANIone sArI rIte jovAM hoya to vahelI savAramAM pahoMcI javuM joIe, jethI AkhI rAtanAM. bhUkhyAM prANI savAra paDatAM ja potAnA khorAka mATe Amatema bhamatAM hoya tyAre temane sArI rIte joI zakAya. khorAka maLI gayA pachI teo ekAda sthaLe lapAIne besI jAya che. pachI cheka sAMje pharI pAchI prANIonI avarajavara dekhAya che. paraMtu mombAsAthI nIkaLatAM amane moDuM thaI gayuM. lagabhaga savAranA sADA-ATha pachI to ame TikiTa laIne sAvo pArkamAM dAkhala thayAM. amArI basa pArkamAM AgaLa cAlI. prANIone jovA mATe badhAM bahu ja utsuka hatAM, paraMtu cAreka mAIla basa cAlI tyAM sudhI eka paNa prANI dekhAyuM nahi. basanI bArIomAMthI badhAM AMkho phADIphADIne ke tANItANIne jotAM hatAM. paNa dUra dUra sudhI nirjana verAnamAM eka paNa prANI dekhAtuM nahotuM. jenI pAse

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sAvo pArka 161 bAyanokyulara hatAM te tenI madada vaDe rastA para najara rAkhatAM hatAM. evAmAM koIka bolyuM, "peluM haraNa jevuM kaMIka jAya che." tarata basa UbhI rakhAI. haraNane jovA mATe keTalAMka nIce UtaryA. cAre bAju dhArIdhArIne joyuM, paraMtu kyAMya haraNa dekhAyuM nahi. sahu nirAza thaI pAchAM basamAM besI gayAM. beeka mAIla basa vadhu AgaLa cAlI. evAmAM koIke kahyuM, "juo, peluM jirApha doDatuM jAya che." DrAivare basa UbhI rAkhI, paraMtu bIjA koIne e jirApha dekhAyuM nahi. jirApha ghaNe dUra haze ane basanI gati vadhAre haze tene kAraNe amArI najaramAMthI e kadAca chaTakI gayuM lAge che. jonArAe kahyuM, je raste ApaNe AvyAM te dizAmAM jirApha doDatuM hatuM. bahu bahu to aDadho mAIla doDI gayuM haze. ApaNe basa pAchI pheravIe to cokkasa jovA maLe." e mATe pravAsIomAM be mata paDI gayA. eka kahe : "AgaLa bIjAM ghaNAM prANIo jovA maLaze. pAchAM javuM nathI." bIjo pakSa kahe : "hamaNAM ja gayuM che mATe jirApha tarata jovA maLaze. vaLI ApaNe moDAM nIkaLyAM chIe, eTale atyAre tarata bIjAM prANIo kadAca jovA nahi maLe." baMne pakSa vacce ghaNI rakajhaka cAlI. bahumatI pakSa basa pAchI pheravavA mATeno hato. eTale amArI basa pAchI pharI. ekane badale traNeka mAIla sudhI ame pAchAM gayAM. badhAM bahu cIvaTapUrvaka dhyAna rAkhatAM hatAM chatAM jirApha kyAMya dekhAyuM nahi. nirAza thaIne chevaTe amAre pAchAM pharavuM paDyuM. amArI basa AgaLa cAlavA lAgI. thoDAka mAIla ame e rIte AgaLa gayAM hoIzuM tyAM acAnaka koInuM dhyAna paDyuM. eka jirApha eka vRkSa nIce evuM sthira UbhuM hatuM ke tarata koInI najare na caDe. jirApha jotAMnI sAthe AnaMdanI kikiyArIothI basa gAjI UThI. savArathI lIdhelo zrama jANe lekhe lAgyo. ghaNAM basamAMthI nIce UtarI gayAM. keTalAke phoTA lIdhA. jirAphanI Doka asAdhAraNa rIte lAMbI hoya che. enA zarIranA pramANamAM enuM mAthuM nAnuM hoya che. badhAnI sAme e tucchakArathI jANe nIcI najare jotuM hoya tevuM lAgatuM hatuM. badhAMnA caherA upara AnaMda ane mugdhatAno bhAva hatA. tyAMthI koIne jaladI khasavAnuM mana thatuM na hatuM. - DrAivare haoNrna mArI badhAMne basamAM besADyAM. basa AgaLa cAlI. Akhe raste bhUkha lAgI hatI eTale eka nAnakaDA taLAvane kinAre bAMdhavAmAM AvelA "arubA loja' nAmanA vizrAmagRhamAM ame pahoMcyAM. badhAMne mATe cA-nAstAnI vyavasthA Ayojakoe sarasa rIte karI hatI. cA-pANI ane ArAma karI ane pharI pAchAM basamAM beThAM. ame krokoDAila paoNinTa pahoMcyAM pA-11

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162 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe ane tyAM nAnakaDI nadImAM keTalAka magaro joyA. tyAra pachI amArI basa mombAsA-nAirobIno hAIve oLaMgIne tsAvo pArkanI bIjI bAju dAkhala thaI. dAkhala thatAM ja eka sthaLe eka hAthIne ame Ubhelo joyo. mAkhIo uDADavA te pUMchaDI halAvato hato ane jhADanI DALIo sUMDha vaDe toDItoDIne khAto hato. AphrikAnA A hAthIno raMga bhArata, malAyA, barmA ke thAIlenDanA hAthIo karatAM saheja judo, gherA bhagavA raMga jevo; tyAMnI mATIno raMga hato tevo. ene lIdhe dhyAnathI na joyuM hoya to hAthI tarata nare na caDe, pazupakSIone potAnI jAta saMtADavA mATe (kamophaleja karavA mATe) kudarate kevA kevA raMga ane AkRti ApyAM che te ghaNAM pazupakSIo ane jIvajaMtunI bAbatamAM joI zakAze. AgaLa rastAmAM bIjAM keTalAMka jirApha tathA haraNa paNa jovA maLyAM. tyAra pachI ame majhima aiga nAmanA eka nAnakaDA jharaNA pAse pahocyAM. tyAM amArA mATe bhojananI vyavasthA karavAmAM AvI hatI. bhojana pachI amArI basa cAlI. ame pArkamAM prANIdarzana mATe khAsa banAvavAmAM AvelI eka hoTelamAM gayAM. hoTelanI pAchaLanI bAju moTI bAlkanI hatI. tenI nIce cogAnamAM eka taLAva banAvyuM hatuM. savArasAMja jAtajAtanAM pazupakSIo pANI pIvA tyAM Ave che. keTalAMka pazupakSIo A pANI pIvAnAM vyasanI banI jAya che, kAraNa ke hoTelavALA e pANImAM roja sAkara bheLave che. ethI hoTelanA grAhakone roja pazupakSIo jovA maLe. sAva najIkathI A pazupakSIone joI zakAya che ane temanA phoTA paNa laI zakAya che. bAlkanImAM lokono vadhAre paDato ghoMghATa thAya to pazuo nAsI jAya ane pakSIo UDI jAya. paraMtu hoTelavALAe te mATe tarata najare paDe evA eka pATiyA upara moTA akSare sarasa sUcanA iMglizamAM lakhI hatI : "pazupakSIone AgrahabharI vinaMtI che ke amArA mAnavaMtA grAhakonI zAMtimAM teo khalela na pahoMcADe, kAraNa ke ghoMghATa thaze to tarata ja teo A sthAna choDIne cAlyAM jaze." sUcanA vAMcatAM ja sau koI hasI paDyAM. sUcanA pazupakSIo mATe nathI paNa hoTelanA grAhako mATe ja che e tarata samajAI jAya evuM hatuM. eTale pazupakSIone jovA mATe tyAM AvanAra sau cIvaTapUrvaka zAMti rAkhatAM. ame tyAM pahoMcyAM tyAre baporanAM traNa vAgyA hatA, eTale keTalAMka haraNa, eka geMDo, eka jaMgalI bheMsa vagere thoDAMka pazuo amane jovA

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sAvo pArka 163 maLyAM. vadhAre pazupakSIo ane khAsa karIne siha vagere jovAM hoya to hoTelamAM be-traNa rAta rokAvuM joIe ane te jovA mATe paroDhiye bAlkanImAM cUpacApa besI javuM joIe. hoTelamAMthI nIkaLI ame badhAM basamAM beThAM. amArI basa have pAchI pharI rahI hatI. rastAmAM acAnaka eka sthaLe DrAivare basa UbhI rAkhI. koIke pUchyuM : "basa kema UbhI rahI ?" prAivare kahyuM : "jhebrA krosiMga." zaheromAM lokone rasto oLaMgavA mATe sapheda ane kALA paTA doravAmAM AvatA hoya che. tene "jhebrA kraoNsiMga' kahevAmAM Ave che. tyAM mANasone rasto oLaMgavAno pahelo hakka hoya che. yuropa-amerikAmAM jyAM sudhI "jhebrA kraoNsiMgamAM eka paNa mANasa cAlato hoya tyAM sudhI vAhana thobhAvavuM paDe che. amane thayuM ke A jaMgalamAM page cAlanAra mANaso kyAMthI hoya ? DrAivara majAka to karato nathI ne ? e jovA mATe ame bahAra najara karI, to kharekhara "jhebrA krosiMga' ja hatuM. rastA para caTApaTA nahotA, paNa caTApaTAvALA jhebrA prANIo pote hArabaMdha rasto oLaMgI rahyAM hatAM. ekasAthe pacAseka jhebrAnuM ToLuM ekanI pAchaLa eka ema maMda gatie jaI rahyuM hatuM. ekasAmaTAM ATalAM badhAM jhebrA joIne badhAMne khUba majA paDI. . amArI basa AgaLa cAlI. rastAmAM eka sthaLe sAteka jeTalAM jirApha ToLe vaLIne UbhAM hatAM. keTalAMka te joyAM, keTalAke te jovAnI darakAra karI nahi. AgaLa jatAM ame eka sthaLe keTalAka hAthIonuM ToLuM joyuM. temAM hAthInuM ramatiyALa nAnuM baccuM - madaniyuM paNa hatuM. paraMtu te jovAno have bahu ochAMne rasa hato. jaMgalI prANIo joIne keTalAMka have dharAI gayAM hatAM. - sAvo pArkamAMthI ame bahAra nIkaLyA tyAre sAMja paDI javA AvI hatI. ame mombAsA pAchA pharavA mATe hAIve para AvI pahoMcyAM. te samaye pacIseka hAthIonuM eka moTuM ToLuM mombAsA-nAirobIno hAIve oLaMgIne pArkanI bIjI bAju jaI rahyuM hatuM. kadAca potAnA rAtrInA virAmasthAne pAchuM pharI rahyuM haze ! paraMtu moTA bhAganAM pravAsIo mAMhomAMhe potAnI vAto karatAM rahyAM. ghaNAMe to bahAra najara sudhdhAM karI nahi. emAMnAM ghaNAM to e ja hatAM ke jemaNe savAre jhaghaDo karIne prANIne jovA mATe basa pAchI pheravAvI hatI. AvA moTA pArkamAM prANIdarzananuM phukya pravAsIone jeTaluM savAranA AraMbhamAM hoya che teTaluM sAMje pAchAM pharatI vakhate hotuM nathI.

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koriyana lekhako rio-Di-jAneromAM pI.I.ena. InTaranezanala koMgresanA pratinidhio mATe brAjhilanI pI.I.ena.nI oNphisa taraphathI nagaradarzanano kAryakrama yojAyo hato. emAM teo amane baoNTenikala gArDana, zugara lopha mAunTena vagere sthaLo batAvavAnAM hatAM. huM ane mArAM patnI temAM joDAyAM hatAM. savAre barAbara sADA-ATha vAge hoTela gloriyA pAsethI amArI basa UpaDI. amArI basamAM aMgrejI bhASA bolanArA pratinidhione levAmAM AvyA hatA. emAM iMglenDa, amerikA, jApAna, koriyA, tAivAna, hoMgakoMga, philipAInsa vagere dezanA pratinidhio hatA. phrenca, jarmana ane speniza bhASA bolanAra pratinidhio mATe bIjI basanI vyavasthA hatI. amAruM svAgata karatAM amArA gAiDe kahyuM, "samayanuM custa pAlana karavAnI tamane badhAne mArI AgrahabharI vinaMtI che ke jethI nagaradarzanano ApaNo kAryakrama barAbara samayasara thaI zake. dareka sthaLethI basa nizcita samaye UpaDI jaze. tamAre moDuM thAya to te pachInA sthaLe TeksI karIne AvI pahoMcavuM. koI paNa sthaLe tamane ApelA samaya karatAM basa vadhu samaya thobhaze nahi." yuropa ane amerikAnA loko jovAnuM thoDuM jatuM karIne paNa samayanI bAbatamAM bahu niyamita rahetA hoya che. AvA sAmUhika kAryakramamAM dareka vakhate jo koIka ne koIka moDuM karyA kare to kAryakrama niyata krama pramANe pAra pADI zakAya nahi. amArI basa UpaDI. basamAM badhAM lekhaka-lekhikAo paraspara vAtacIta karI rahyAM hatAM, paraMtu amArI DAbI bAjunI sITa upara beThelA be yuvAna koriyana lekhako basa cAlatAM ja jhokAM khAvA lAgyA. keTalAka lokone cAlu TrenamAM ke basamAM jhokAM AvatAM hoya che te ApaNe jANIe chIe. paraMtu thoDI vAra pachI je rIte e baMne lekhako ghasaghasATa UMghI gayA e parathI amane lAgyuM ke kadAca temane AgalI rAtano ujAgaro haze. teo ekabIjAnA khabhA upara mAthuM nAkhIne nasakorAM bolAvavA lAgyA, tethI

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be koriyana lekhako 165 AsapAsanA bIjA lekhako potAnuM hasavuM khALI zakyA nahi. ghaDIkamAM A vAta AkhI basamAM prasarI gaI ane koIka to potAnI beThaka uparathI UbhA thaIne emane joI paNa gayA. eka koriyana lekhikAe kahyuM, "teo bicArAne rAtano ujAgaro che, teo bahu thAkelA che mATe UMghe che, paraMtu thoDI vAramAM ja teo jAgI jaze." bIjA keTalAka koriyana lekhakonI vAta parathI lAgyuM ke te lekhikA pelA be UMdhatA lekhakomAMnA ekanI dUranI sagI thatI hatI. amArI basa baoNTenikala gArDanamAM pahoMcI. gArDananA daravAjA pAse ja basa pArka karavAmAM AvI. eka pachI eka badhAM nIce Utaryo. pelI koriyana lekhikAe A be koriyana lekhakone jagADavA prayatno karyA, paraMtu eka saheja AMkha kholI ane tarata mIMcI dIdhI. bIjAe potAne AvavuM nathI ema hAthanA IzArAthI jaNAvyuM. amane gArDanamAM pharavAno aDadhA kalAkano samaya ApavAmAM Avyo hato. ame badhA potapotAnI icchAnusAra gArDanamAM Amatema pharyA. vividha prakAranI vanaspati ame nihALI. keTalAke phoTA pADyA. samaya thayo eTale ame badhAM basamAM pAchAM AvyAM. paraMtu basa upADI zakAya ema na hatI, kAraNa ke UMghatA be koriyana lekhakomAMthI have eka ja lekhaka UMghatA hatA. bIjA lekhaka kyAM gayA tenI koIne khabara paDI nahi. DrAivare kahyuM, "huM kaoNphI pIvA gayo eTalI vAramAM eka lekhaka nIce UtarI kyAMka gayA lAge che. mane ema hatuM ke tamArAM badhAMnI sAthe e joDAI gayA haze." thoDI vAra rAha joI, paraMtu te lekhaka dekhAyA nahi. pelA UMghatA lekhakane DhaMDhoLIne pUchI joyuM, paraMtu temane kazI khabara nahotI. traNacAra koriyana lekhaka-lekhikAo tarata nIce UtaryA ane te lekhakanI tapAsa karavA doDyAM, paraMtu nirAza thaIne pAchAM AvyAM. amArA gAIDe kahyuM, "badhAMne moDuM thAya che, mATe ApaNe have basa upADavI joIe. te lekhaka potAnI meLe TeksI karIne bIjA sthaLe AvI pahoMcaze." koI kaMI bolyuM nahi, paNa pelI koriyana lekhikA tarata UbhI thaI. teNe raDamasa avAje ciMtA vyakta karI. teNe kahyuM, "A lekhakane ApaNe atyAre ja zodhavA joIe. mane temanI bahu ciMtA thAya che. mane lAge che ke kaMIka kAma mATe teo nIce UtaryA haze ane caDelI UMghane kAraNe gArDanamAM koI jagyAe teo UMghI gayA haze."

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166 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe amane tenI vAta hasavA jevI lAgI. koIke TIkA karatAM kahyuM, "AvI te UMgha koInI hoya ?" koIke bacAva karyo. sAmasAmI dalIlo thaI. chevaTe e lekhikAe kahyuM, "tamane have sAcI vAta kahuM chuM. kAle rAtanA hoTelamAM veiTara dvArA mane khabara paDI hatI ke mArI bAjunI rUmamAM keTalAka koriyana lekhako vacce bIara pIvAnI spardhA thaI hatI. ane A be lekhako trIsa baoNTala sudhI pahoMcyA hatA, eTale temane ghena caDyuM che. savAre temane mAMDa mAMDa uThADIne nIce basamAM laI AvI che. jo ApaNe tapAsa nahi karIe to A lekhakane ghenamAM Amatema jatAM kaMI akasmAta thaI jaze. mane temanI bahu ciMtA thAya che. mane badhAMne vinaMtI karuM chuM ke ApaNe jovAnuM ekAda sthaLa jatuM karIne paNa e lekhakane zodhI kADhavA joIe." - hasavA jevI vAta have ekadama gaMbhIra banI gaI. basamAM beThelAM badhAM ja (pelA bIjA UMghatA koriyana lekhaka sivAya) tapAsa karavA mATe nIce UtarI gayAM. pahelAM TaoNyaleTamAM tapAsa karI. bAjumAM ja ToyaleTa hatuM. emAM eka saMDAsanuM bAraNuM kyAranuM baMdha hatuM. emAM ja e lekhaka UMghI gayA haze ema lAgyuM. bAraNuM khakhaDAvyuM, paNa emAMthI bahAranA bIjA ja koI bhAI nIkaLyA. amArAmAMnA keTalAka judI judI dizAmAM judA judA jUthamAM tapAsa karavA gayA, tema chatAM te lekhakano kyAMya patto lAgyo nahi. chevaTe gArDananA rakhevALa dvArA AkhA gArDanamAM jhINavaTapUrvaka tapAsa karAvaDAvI, paraMtu temAM paNa nirAzA sAMpaDI. lagabhaga doDha kalAka ema karato vItI gayo. chevaTe nirAzA ane ciMtA sAthe amArI basa UpaDI. jovAnAM keTalAMka sthaLo ame mAMDI vALyAM. tyAMthI ame sIdhA zugara lopha mAunTena pAse gayAM. kebala kAramAM besI ame badhAM upara pahoMcyA. pelA bIjA koriyana lekhaka basa haju UMghatA ja hatA. riomAM samudramAM pAse ja AvelA A TApu parvata "zugara lopha mAunTenamAM upara badhe pharIne ame be kalAke nIce AvyAM. basamAM besavA gayAM ane joyuM to bIjA koriyana lekhaka potAnI beThakamAM na hatA. DrAivara paNa nahoto. amane dhrAsako paDyo. koIke majAka karI ke "koriyana lekhakonuM Aje apaharaNa to nathI thatuM ne ?" amAro gAIDa paNa ciMtAmAM paDyo. te tarata tapAsa karavA doDyo. thoDI vAre AvIne jaNAvyuM : "hAza, A bIjA koriyana lekhaka salAmata che; ciMtA karazo nahi. emane ToyaleTamAM javuM hatuM, paraMtu DrAIvare temane ekalA javA dIdhA

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be koriyana lekhako nathI. pote paNa temanI sAthe ja gayo che. thoDI vAramAM teo pAchA AvavA joIe. bIjA eka basanA DrAIvare mane A saMdezo Apyo che." thoDI vAramAM DrAIvara ane koriyana lekhaka AvatA dekhAyA. badhAMne zAMti thaI. te lekhaka have kaMIka bhAnamAM hatA. basamAM dAkhala thatAM teo potAnA parAkrama mATe thoDuM hasyA ane potAnI beThaka upara jaIne tarata UMdhI gayA. ' - sAMje ame hoTela upara pahoMcyAM. pelA khovAyelA lekhakanI amane badhAMne ciMtA hatI. hoTelamAM dAkhala thaI risepzanisTa pAsethI ame potapotAnA rUmanI cAvI letAM hatAM, te daramiyAna pelI koriyana lekhikA jhaDapathI upara jaI tapAsa karI AvI hatI. eNe kahyuM, "amArA pelA lekhaka salAmata che. hoTelamAM AvI gayA che ane potAnI rUmamAM UMghe che. temane jagADIne meM pUchyuM to kahyuM ke pote TaoNyaleTamAM javA nIce UtaryA, paraMta ghenane lIdhe TaoNyaleTanI jagyA jaDI nahi (je bAjumAM ja hatI). pAchA pharatAM emane basa jaDI nahi (je daravAjA pAse ja UbhI hatI). TaoNyaleTanI utAvaLa hatI ane UMgha sakhata AvatI hatI eTale teo tarata TeksI karI hoTela para tarata AvI pahoMcyA hatA." rionAM keTalAMka sthaLo amane te divase jovA na maLyAM. (te ame potAnI meLe bIje divase joI lIdhAM). paraMtu be koriyana lekhakonI bIara pIvAnI spardhAne kAraNe amArI te divasanI saphara yAdagAra banI gaI.

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B9 macchu-piccha macca-picchanAM darzana karavAno avasara amane sAMpaDyo te amArA jIvanano eka dhanya prasaMga che. mathya- pichu (athavA anya uccAra pramANe mAcu-pichuM) ane inkA saMskRti vize keTalA loko jANatA haze ? madhya ane dakSiNa amerikAnA keTalAka bhAgomAM prAcIna saMskRtinA avazeSo maLI AvyA che. uttara ane dakSiNa amerikAnA khaMDonI dharatI ghaNI vizALa che. keTalAya pradeza pahADo ane jaMgalothI bharapUra che. keTalIya jamIna vaNakheDAyelI che. khodakAmo thAya to haju ghaNA avazeSo maLavAno saMbhava che. kolaMbasa bhAratanI saphare nIkaLyo, paNa pahoMcyo amerikAne kinAre. te vakhate eNe to ema ja mAnyuM ke pote bhArata pahoMcI gayo che. eTale eNe amerikAmAM je loko joyA teo bhAratIya eTale ke inDiyana che ema mAnyuM. atizaya ThaMDInI lIdhe inDiyanonA caherA ratAzavALA hatA, eTale teone reDa inDiyana tarIke oLakhavAmAM AvyA. kolaMbase bhUlathI oLakhAvelA inDiyano te kharekhara bhAratIya prajAnA ja vaMzajo che ema keTalAka nRvaMzazAstrIo have mAne che. yuropIya prajAmAMthI khAsa to spena ane porTugalanI prajAe uttara ane vizeSataH leTina (dakSiNa) amerikAmAM pahoMcIne vasavATa zarU karyo te pahelAM tyAM judI judI AdivAsI prajAo rahetI hatI. e prajAo mULa tyAMnI vatanI hatI ke saikAo daramiyAna bahArathI bhamatI bhamatI AvIne vasI hatI e vize koI nakkara pramANo maLatAM nathIparaMtu anumAno thAya che. eka mata ema mAne che ke e badhI prajA bepAMca hajAra ke tethI vadhu varSa pUrve bhAratamAMthI sthaLAMtara karatI karatI saikAo daramiyAna tyAM jaIne vaselI hovI joIe, ane bhAratano saMparka lupta thatAM kaMIka aMze jaMgalI jevI banI gaI hovI joIe. paraMtu A loko tyAM pahoMcyA haze kevI rIte ? eka mata ema mAne che, ke badhI prajAo vahANo dvArA hiMdI ane pesiphika mahAsAgara oLaMgatI

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mathya-piccha 169 krame krame peDhI-dara-peDhI AgaLa vadhatI tyAM pahoMcI hovI joIe. bIjA mata pramANe te prajAo bhAratamAMthI jamInamArge uttara dizAmAM cIna ane jApAna tarapha sthaLAMtara karatI karatI TheTha beriMganI sAmudradhunI sudhI pahoMcI haze ane tyAMthI vahANomAM sAme kinAre eTale ke uttara amerikAnA alAskAnA kinAre pahoMcI haze. tyAra pachI keTalIka prajA tyAMthI pAchI amerikAne pazcima kinAre nIce UtaratI UtaratI madhya ane dakSiNa amerikA sudhI pahoMcI haze. be-pAMca hajAra varSa pUrve uttara dhruva tarapha atyAre hoya che teTalI ThaMDI nahi hoya ane havAmAna anukULa haze, eTale A rIte te prajA sthaLAMtara karI zakI haze. meksiko, gvATemAlA, peru vagere dezomAM nirbheLa evA keTalAka AdivAsI ane yuropIya prajA sAthe varNasaMkara thayelA AdivAsIo Aje ApaNane jovA maLe che. e prajAnI mukhAkRti, rItarivAjo, bharatagUMthaNavALAM kapaDAM tathA khAvApIvAnI TevonuM keTaluMka sAmya bhAratIya prajA sAthe jovA maLe che, jema ke yuropIya prajA tIkhuM khAI zakatI nathI, paraMtu meksikonA keTalAka gorA loko bahu tIkhuM khAvAnA zokhIna hoya che. vaLI meksikonA keTalAka loko pAMune badale roTalI (meksikana zabda ToTiyA) khAya che. madhya ane dakSiNa amerikAmAM mAyA saMskRti, InkA saMskRti vagere saMskRtionA je prAcIna avazeSo maLe che te judA judA samayanA che. InkA saMskRtinA avazeSo enDijhanI parvatamALAmAM bhinna bhinna sthaLe jovA maLe che. A avazeSomAMnuM eka suprasiddha sthaLa te mayya-pichu nAmanuM nagara che. A avazeSonI khabara saMzodhakone ghaNI moDI maLI, kAraNa ke tyAM pahoMcavAnuM saraLa nahotuM. tyAM pahoMcavAno mArga nirjana verAnamAM, gIca jhADI ane UMcA caDhANane lIdhe lupta thaI gayo hato. porTugala ane khAsa to spenanA lokoe potAnI baMdUkanA jore tyAM hakUmata jamAvavA mATe sthAnika InkA prajAo upara je krUra atyAcAro karyA hatA ane temanAM mAlamilakatano nAza karyo hato teno itihAsa ghaNo karuNa che. sadbhAgye A vinAzamAMthI mammu-piccha bacI gayuM, paraMtu InkA rAjAno parAjaya thatAM, khorAka ane jIvana-jarUriyAtanI Itara vastuo na pahoMcatAM tyAM rahetA mANaso krame krame mRtyune zaraNa thayA haze ema manAya che. huM ane mArAM patnI leTina amerikAmAM peru javAnAM hatAM. eTale tyAM macyuMpicchanA sAMskRtika avazeSo najare nihALavAnI taka maLe to sAruM evI amArI bhAvanA hatI. mapiccha javAnuM eTaluM saheluM nathI. eTale tyAM kevI rIte jaI zakAya te mATe muMbaImAM ame perunI kaoNsyuleTanI oNphisamAM tapAsa karI hatI.

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170 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe daramiyAna amane jANavA maLyuM ke amArA eka mitra zrI gulAbacaMdabhAI zAhanAM bahena zrImatI kRSNAbahena macca-pichu jaI AvyAM che. ema temano saMparka karyo. emaNe kahyuM, "tame jo peru javAnAM ho, to mammupiccha javAnuM cUktAM nahi. eTale dUra sudhI javAnI taka jaladI jaladI maLatI nathI." macca-pichu vize kRSNAbahene amane keTalIka mAhitI ApI ane kahyuM, "mathya-pichu javA mATe tamAre limAthI pahelAM kusko nAmanA zaheramAM javuM paDaze. tame kusko vimAnamAM javAnuM rAkhajo, kAraNa ke tyAM iMgliza bolanArAM mANaso koIka ja maLe che. lagabhaga bAraso kilomITara basamAM javAmAM be AkhA divasa lAgaze ane tamane ghaNI agavaDa paDaze, kAraNa ke tyAM basanI sagavaDa bahu sArI hotI nathI. vaLI, kusko jAo to tabiyata barAbara sAcavajo, kAraNa ke limA barAbara samudranI sapATIe AveluM zahera che ane kusko bAra hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe AveluM che. kuskonI havA ghaNI ja pAtaLI che. limAthI vimAnamAM lagabhaga poNA kalAkamAM tame sIdhA ATalI UMcAIe pahoMcI jaze eTale tamane prANavAyunI takalIpha paDavA lAgaze. mATe pahoMcIne tarata tame bahu haraphara karatAM nahi. sAmAna bane teTalo ocho laI jajo. sAdhAraNa vajanavALI baeNga ke bIjI koI cIjavastu tame UMcako ke jarAka jhaDapathI cAlo ke tarata tamane zvAsanI takalIpha thavA lAgaze. tame bezuddha thaI jazo. eNraporTa pahoMcIne tame moTara ke basamAM hoTela para jAva tyAre jyAM cAlavAnuM ke pagathiyAM caDavAnuM thAya tyAM Aste Aste DagalAM mAMDajo ane hoTelamAM jaIne tarata ja pathArImAM aDadho divasa sUI rahejo. ema karavAthI cAra-cha kalAkamAM tamArAM phephasAM dhIme dhIme pAtaLI havAthI TevAI jaze. A huM tamane amArA anubhava parathI kahuM chuM." kRSNAbahenanI sUcanA gabharAve evI hatI, paraMtu ame ma-piccha javA utsuka hatAM. perunA limA zaheramAM pahoMcIne ame baMdhI tapAsa karI lIdhI ane eka TrAvela kaMpanI dvArA mamyu-pichu javA mATe nAma noMdhAvI dIdhAM. TrAvela kaMpanIe paNa amane kusko jaIne tarata ArAma karavAnI salAha ApI. ame limAthI kusko gayAM. eNrapaoNrTa para UtarI moTaramAM besI hoTelamAM gayAM. rUmamAM jaIne sIdhA pathArImAM ja laMbAvI dIdhuM. besavAnuM ke rUmamAM haraphara karavAnuM paNa TALyuM. pUro ArAma karI sAMje ame zaheramAM laTAra mAravA nIkaLyAM.

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171 : mamyupicchu kusko nAnuM zahera che. enI prAcInatA enAM makAno, rastAo ane AdivAsI mANasonA caherA uparathI dekhAI AvatI hatI. ame eka bajAramAM gayAM. tyAM hAtha-banAvaTanI cIjo vecAtI hatI. pAse pAse AvelI hATaDIo mAlasAmAnathI khIcokhIca hatI. vepArIomAM puruSo karatAM strIo vadhAre hatI. gheravALA caNiyA, lAMbI bAMyanA polakAM, upara bharatakAma, lAMbA coTalA ke aMboDA, bharavADonAM jevAM hAthapaganAM ghareNAM, cAmaDIno raMga ane mukhAkRti, bolavAno laheko - e badhAmAM amane bhAratIya aNasAra varatAto hato. je dukAne ame jaIe te dukAnanI mAlika strI potAnI cIjavastuo batAvavAne badale mArAM patnInI sADI ane ghareNAM vize pUchaparacha karatI. alabatta, A badhuM izArAthI thatuM, kAraNa ke amane ekabIjAnI bhASA AvaDatI nahotI. bIje divase ame kuskonI AsapAsa AvelA keTalAka sAMskRtika avazeSo joI AvyAM. amArI sAthe eka iTAliyana yugala hatuM. te aMgrejI bolatuM hatuM eTale ame rAjI thayAM. kaMIka vAta nIkaLatAM iTAliyana yuvatIe kahyuM, "ame sAta divasathI kuskomAM chIe." ema ? ahIM eTaluM badhuM jovAnuM che ?" ame pUchyuM. "nA, ame haju Aje pahelI vAra kuskonA sAMskRtika avazeSo jovA nIkaLyAM chIe." "to ATalA badhA divasa zuM karyuM ?" - "ame haoNspiTalamAM hatAM. amAro kAryakrama astavyasta thaI gayo che. pahele divase kusko pahoMcIne tarata ja ame bajAramAM pharavA nIkaLI paDyAM. A thoDAka parizramane pariNAme te divase bapore amane sakhata becenI lAgavA mAMDI. mAthuM sakhata dukhavA AvyuM. rastAmAM cAlatAM mArA patine cakkara AvyA ane paDI gayA. teo bebhAna thaI gayA. huM paNa zvAsanI takalIphathI gabharAI gaI hatI. amane baMnene haoNspiTalamAM laI javAmAM AvyAM. aThavADiyA pachI have amArI tabiyata sArI thaI che. DaoNkTare have amane pharavAnI rajA ApI che." e yugalanI vAta sAMbhaLI amane thayuM ke kuskomAM ame pahelAM ArAma karI lIdho e DahApaNanuM kAma karyuM. trIje divase savAre amAro kAryakrama mathya-pichu javAno hato. kuskothI mathya-pichu chotera mAIla dUra che. te kusko jeTalI UMcAIe nahi paNa cAra

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172 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe pAMca hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe AveluM che. nerogeja TrenamAM (ApaNe tyAM mAtherAna ke simalAmAM hoya che tevI) tyAM javAya che, paraMtu A TrenanA pATAnI racanA vicitra che. thoDuM aMtara kApI Trena pATA badalI pAchI Ave che. ema cAra vAra AvajA kare che ane UMce caDhatI jAya che. pachI saLaMga eka ja dizAmAM nIce UtaratI jAya che. pahADanuM ghaNuM lAMbuM cakkara na levuM paDe mATe AvI racanA karI che. ame TrenamAM beThAM. maMda gatie DuMgara uparathI vaLAMko letI letI Trena nIce sarakatI jatI hatI. koI koI ThekANe pATAnI taddana najIka nAnakaDAM gharomAM gorI cAmaDIvALA grAma AdivAsIo rahetA hatA. gharo pAse kacaro puSkaLa paDelo hato. lokonAM kapaDAM gaMdAM ane phATelAM hatAM. chellAM kyAre teo nAhyA haze e vize ApaNA manamAM zaMkA thAya evA temanA dekhAva hatA. koI koI ThekANe relavenA pATAnI pAse mANaso zaucakriyA mATe beThelA paNa dekhAtA. kaskonAM parAM jevAM nAnAM gAmo choDI amArI Trena jaMgalamAM AgaLa cAlI. vAtAvaraNa have svaccha ane cittane prasanna kare evuM hatuM. cAre bAju lIlI jhADA ane UMcA-nIcA DuMgaro hatA. taDako paDato hato. nIcenA pradezamAM jatAM havA dhIme dhIme jADI thatI hatI. traNa kalAkanA pravAsa pachI ame puenta rUinAjha nAmanA chellA sTezana upara AvI pahoMcyAM. ahIMthI amAre have basamAM ATha kilomITara hera-pina (Hair-pin) jevA cauda vaLAMkavALA raste upara javAnuM hatuM. ahIM basamAM besavA mATe paNa doDAdoDI thatI hatI. rijharvezana jevuM kazuM hatuM nahi. amAro gAIDa amane doDAvato, paraMtu badhAM doDI zakatAM na hatAM. jematema karIne judI judI basamAM besIne ame badhAM DuMgara upara pahoMcI gayAM. cAra-pAMca judI judI TUrisTa kaMpanInA pravAsIo ahIM ekaThA thayA hatA. amArA gAIDe amane badhAne ekatrita karI lIdhAM. resTorAMmAM laMca lIdhA pachI DuMgaranI Toca upara AvelA mathya-piSNunA avazeSo jovA te amane laI gayo. ma-pichu e pahADanA eka zikhara uparanA vizALa sapATa vistAramAM pAMcaso varSa pahelAM vaseluM nAnakaDuM nagara che. jotAM ja enI bhavyatA najarane AkarSI le che. taddana pAse AvelA bIjA DuMgaranuM vadhu UMcuM zikhara enI bhavyatAmAM umero kare che.

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173 mathya- picchu mamyupillunI zodha keliphorniyA ane hArvarDa yunivarsiTImAM itihAsanA adhyApaka tarIke kAma karatA hirama bigahAma (1875-1948) nAmanA honolulunA yuvAna itihAsakAre karI hatI. dakSiNa amerikAno itihAsa zIkhavatAM zIkhavatAM e badhA pradezo najare nihALavAnI emane jijJAsA thaI; yunivarsiTIo taraphathI madada maLI ane vAraMvAra jaMgalo ane pahADIomAM taMbu sAthe emaNe pagapALA pravAso kheDyA. ema karatAM eka vakhata eka AdivAsI kheDUtanA batAvyA pramANe gIca jhADImAMthI caDatAM caDatAM teo mathya- pichu AvI pahoMcyA. e jotAM ja teo AzcaryamAM garakAva thaI gayA. potAnI A zodha vize emaNe pustaka lakhyuM che : "The Lost of the Incas."* mathya-piccha zabda ahIMnA AdivAsI inDiyana lokonI "kyuecUo" nAmanI bhASAmAMthI Avyo che. teno artha thAya che "jUnuM zikhara'. macyuMpicchamAM cAre bAju sArI hAlatamAM sacavAyelA bhagnAvazeSo che. enA uparathI AkhI nagararacanAno khyAla Ave che. ahIM khodakAma karatAM maLI AvelAM cInI mATI ane dhAtunAM vAsaNo, hAthavaNATanAM kapaDAM, zilpAkRtio ane sthApatyanA namUnAo uparathI itihAsakAro ame mAne che, ke I. sa. 1420nI AsapAsa A nAnakaDuM nagara sthapAyuM hovuM joIe. "InkA" vaMzanA rAjA pAcAkuke dharatIkaMpa pachI jyAre kusko nagara pharIthI vasAvyuM tyAre enDijhanI parvatamALAmAM bIjAM keTalAMka nagaro paNa vasAvyAM hatAM. e arasAmAM eNe A mamyupiccha nagara vasAvyuM haze. AvI dUranI UMcI ane durgama TekarInI Toca upara mamyu-piccha vasAvavAnuM kAraNa zuM ? itihAsakAro mAne che ke InkA vaMzanI A eka gupta nagarI hatI. A nagarInI sthApanA dhArmika hetuthI karavAmAM AvI hatI. ahIM dhArmika kriyAkAMDo thatA. e kriyAkAMDo sAmAnya rIte bAla-brahmacArI hoya evI strIo ja karatI. e strIo sUryakuMvarI (Virgins of the Sun) tarIke oLakhAtI. samagra rAjyamAMthI zarIre sudaDha ane atyaMta buddhizALI hoya evI nAnI nAnI bALAo pasaMda thatI. teone temanA kuTuMbathI dUra ahIM kAyamane mATe lAvavAmAM AvatI. ahIM temanA rahevA tathA khAvApIvAnI tamAma vyavasthA rahetI. tevI bALAo potAnuM samagra jIvana brahmacAriNI tarIke ahIM dhArmika kriyAkAMDomAM vitAvatI. maTu-picchanA * A zodhanI smRtimAM perunI sarakAre honta rUinAjhathI macya-picchanA rastAne "DaoN. bigahAma mArga' evuM nAma ApyuM che. A rastAnA udghATana vakhate DaoN. biMgahAma pote perunA nimaMtraNathI hAjara rahyA hatA.

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174 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe khodakAmamAM maLelA mAnava avazeSomAMthI 75 TakAthI vadhu avazeSo strIonA che e paNa A vAtanI sAkSI pUre che. mathya-picchamAM jANe bAre mAsa vasaMta Rtu hoya evuM ramaNIya kudaratI AhUlAdaka havAmAna che. InkA lokoe potAnA pavitra nagara mATe karelI A sthaLanI pasaMdagI badhI ja dRSTie ucita hatI. masya-picchamAM eka nagaranI AvazyakatA pramANe vividha prakAranI racanAo jovA maLe che. emAM aDhIso jeTalAM paththaranAM gharo che. temAM keTaleka ThekANe kadaratI jharaNAmAMthI paDatAM pANIne pIvA mATe ekatra karI levA nIce kuMDa jevI racanA karavAmAM AvI che. DuMgaranI dhAra upara pagathiyAM jevAM khetaro (Terrace Farms) che. macca- pijhmAM eka jagyAethI bIjI jagyAe javA mATe Thera Thera ghaDelA paththaranA rastAo ke pagathiyAM che. gunegArone rAkhavA mATenI jela ane phAMsI ApavA mATenI jagyA paNa che. kabrastAna paNa che ane cokiyAtonI cokI paNa che. A badhI racanAmAM A parvatano ja majabUta grenAiTa paththara vaparAyo che. mamyu-picchamAM barAbara madhya bhAgamAM sUryamaMdiranuM khaMDiyera che. enA paththaronI dIvAlonI jADAI tathA UMcAI tathA emAM staMbha ane mobha tarIke vAparavAmAM AvelA paththaro parathI kevuM benamUna sthApatya inkA lokonuM haze tenI pratIti thAya che. InkI loko AvA jabaradasta moTA paththaro khaseDavA, caDhAvavA, goThavavA ItyAdi kAryo mATe zarIre bahu sazakta ane bAMdhakAmanI kalAmAM nipuNa haze enI pratIti e karAve che. A sUryamaMdiramAM vacce nIce moTA laMbacorasa paththaro goThavavAmAM AvyA che, jenA upara pUjAnI sAmagrI ane bhoga dharAvavAmAM Avato haze. divAlomAM saMkhyAbaMdha gokhalAo che, jemAM teo devadevIonI mUrtio rAkhatA haze. eka bAjunI dIvAlamAM traNa moTI khullI bArIo che. e zA mATe rAkhavAmAM AvI haze te vize itihAsakAro vividha anumAno kare che. A AkhA vasavATano pUro itihAsa ApaNane maLato nathI. paNa jema jema saMzodhana thatAM jAya che tema tema InkA saMskRtinAM vividha pAsAMo upara vadhu prakAza paDato jAya che. inkA loko ApaNI jema sUrya ane caMdranI pUjA karanArA hatA. teonuM kelenDara ApaNuM hoya che tema cAMdrAyaNa hatuM. caMdranI kalAnI vadhaghaTa

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17pa maccanapiccha pramANe teo bAra mahinAnI gaNatarI gaNatA. vaLI teo sUryanI paNa pUjA karatA ane sUryanA udayAstanA AdhAre samaya nakkI karavA mATe sUryaghaTikA(The Sun Dial - jene mATe inkA zabda che - IntihuvAtAnA)nI racanA khullAmAM karatA. maTu-picchamAM paNa AvI sUryaghaTikA che. InkA loko graho, nakSatro, suryodaya, sUryAsta, grahaNa vagerenI gaNatarImAM kuzaLa hatA. sUrya ane caMdranI gatine AdhAre teo keTalAka divasane parva tarIke UjavatA. evA parvane "inirAyamI parva tarIke teo oLakhAvatA. mathya- picchamAM parvatanA paththaramAMthI yojanApUrvaka korI kADhavAmAM AvelI eka vizALa sapATa jagyAmAM vacce staMbha jevI eka AkRti jovA maLe che. sadbhAgye speniyADa lokoe ke enA dharmaguruoe A AkRti toDI nAkhI nathI. A zAnI AkRti che tenA mATe saMzodhakoe prAraMbhamAM judAM judAM anumAna karelAM, paraMtu have e nizcita thayuM che ke A staMbha te saryadhaTikA che. enA cAreya khUNA barAbara kaMpAsa pramANe cAre dizA darzAve che. inkA lokonuM gaNita keTaluM cokasAIvALuM hatuM te emanI A sUryaghaTikA uparathI paNa samajAya che. eka sthaLe, eka vizALa khaDakamAM moTA pleTaphaoNrma jevI jagyA kotarI kADhavAmAM AvI che. keTalAMka ema mAne che ke daphanAvatAM pahelAM zabanA aMtima dhArmika saMskAra ane vidhi mATe A racanA karavAmAM AvI haze. bIje eka sthaLe rAjakuTuMbanA sabhyo mATenuM alaga kabrastAna che. inakA saMskRtinA avazeSarUpe maTu-picchamAMthI ane enDijhanI parvatamALAmAM bIjAM keTalAka sthaLoethI keTalAMka "mamI maLI AvyAM che. ijiptanAM mamI' karatAM A mamI judAM che. InkA loko punarjanmamAM mAnatA. teo ema mAnatA ke mANasa mRtyu pAme che tyAre bIjo janma le che eTale ke bALaka garbhamAM hoya tevI sthiti mANasanI pharIthI thAya che. eTalA mATe zabanA hAthapagane ghUMTaNa ane koNIthI vALIne teo peTa ane chAtIne aDoaDa evI rIte goThavatA ke jevI rIte garbhamAM bALakanI sthiti hoya. AvI rota goThavyA pachI teo zabamAM jAtajAtanI auSadhio bharatA ane tene vilepana karatA. tyAra pachI mATInA koI moTA mATalAmAM ke koThInI. aMdara tene mUkIne baMdha karI detA. InkI loko zabane saikAo sudhI sAcavavAnI auSadhionA jANakAra hatA te uparathI paNa e prajAnI buddhizaktino khyAla Ave che. ma-piSNunA avazeSo joI basamAM nIce UtarI ame relave-sTezana

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176 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe upara sAMje pAMca vAge AvI pahoMcyAM. ATha vAge ame kusko pahoMcavAnAM hatAM. paraMtu yuropa, uttara amerikA ke jApAna jevI A koI nirdhArita relave nahotI. jUnA DabbA ane jUnA enjinavALI A Trena eka ja pATA upara jAya ane Ave. samayanuM custa pAlana paNa nahi. ame TrenamAM beThAM pachI lagabhaga be kalAke te UpaDI. badhAM khUba kaMTALI gayAM hatAM. Trena UpaDI tyAre aMdhAruM thaI gayuM hatuM. topaNa sUvAnA samaya pahelAM hoTela upara pahoMcI javAze evI amane AzA hatI. paraMtu maMda gatie cAlatI amArI Trena traNeka sTezana vaTAvyA pachI eka sTezana pAse khAssI vAra UbhI rahI. ApaNI bApunI gADI'nI yAda apAve evI A gADI hatI. lagabhaga kalAka pachI to amane khabara paDI ke TrenanuM enjina bagaDI gayuM che, eTale bIjuM enjina Ave tyAM sudhI Trena have jaze nahi. badhAM bhUkhyAM thaI gayAM hatAM. videzamAM badhe zAkAhArI khorAka kadAca na maLe e mATe sAthe haMmezAM thoDuMka khAvAnuM rAkhavAnI Teva ahIM amane kAma lAgI. moDuM thatuM jatuM hatuM. rAtanA bAra vAgI gayA hatA. bahAra aMdhAruM hatuM. TrenamAM AchA ajavALAmAM pravAsIonI vAtacItanA avAjo zamatA jatA hatA. keTalAMka potAnI beThakamAM jhokAM khAvA lAgyAM hatAM. kuskothI paroDhiye amAre limA mATe vimAna pakaDavAnuM hatuM. te pakaDAze ke nahi tenI amane have ciMtA thavA lAgI hatI. - rAtanA be vAge bIjuM enjina AvI pahoMcyuM. Trena cAlI. pravAsIomAM cetanAno saMcAra thayo. savAre cAra vAge ame kukko pahoMcyAM tyAre amane jANavA maLyuM ke amane sTezane levA AvanArI TUrisTa kaMpanInI basa be kalAka rAha joI kaMTALIne pAchI cAlI gaI hatI. ame TeksI karIne hoTela para pahoMcyAM. tarata cA pIne, sAmAna laIne ame e ja TeksImAM eraporTa pahoMcI gayAM. AkhI rAtano amane ujAgaro thayo hato, paNa vimAna cUkyAM nahotAM eno AMnada . hato. vaLI, macca-picchanAM darzananA AnaMde amArI yAtrAne sArthaka banAvI hatI.

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sAo pAulo ane sujhAno rio-Di-jAnerothI brAjhilanA pATanagara brAjhiliyA zaheramAM pharIne sAo pAulo (Sao-Poulo - eno uccAra tyAMnA keTalAka loko "sAma pAvalo' evI paNa kare che. seTa paoNlanA nAma uparathI brAjhilanA A zaheranuM nAma paDyuM che.) ame javAnAM hatAM. sAo pAulo lagabhaga 50 lAkhanI vasati dharAvatuM brAjhilanuM moTAmAM moTuM vepArI mathaka che. sAo pAulo mATenI phalAiTa nakkI karavA mATe tathA tyAM hoTelamAM rijharvezana karAvavA mATe huM mArAM patnI sAthe rionI pAna-amerikana kaMpanInI ophisamAM jaI Avyo. ame rojanA lagabhaga cAlIsa DaoNlaranA daranI madhyama kakSAnI eka hoTelamAM rijharvezana karAvyuM. sAMje ame amArI hoTela para pAchA pharyA tyAre risepzanisTe amane saMdezo Apyo ke sAo pAulothI koI misTara kasToDiyono TUMkakola hato ane teo rAtre nava vAgye pharIthI phona karaze. A kasToDiyo koNa haze ? huM vicAra karavA lAgyo. paraMtu e nAmanA koI bhAIne huM oLakhato houM tevuM jaNAyuM nahIM. cheka brAjhilamAM sAo pAulomAM mAruM koI oLakhItuM hoya tevuM kyAreya meM jANyuM ke sAMbhaLyuM nahotuM. eTale manamAM vahema paDyo ke risepzanisTe kadAca bhUlamAM koIkano saMdezo mane ApI dIdho lAge che. je haze te; rAtre nava vAge pharIthI phona Avaze tyAre A vAtanI spaSTatA thaze. rAtre barAbara nava vAgye kasToDiyono phona Avyo. emaNe kahyuM, "DaoN. zAha, huM kasToDiyo boluM chuM. tame mane oLakhatA nathI. huM tamane oLakhato nathI. paraMtu jApAnathI tamArA mitra yozira nubhATAno mArA upara TelekSa dvArA saMdezo Avyo che ke tame ane tamArAM patnI jo kadAca sAo pAulo AvavAnAM ho to te mATe mAre tamArI badhI vyavasthA karavI. to mAre e jANavuM che ke tame sAo pAulo AvavAnAM ho to kyAre ?" A sAMbhaLatAM ja amane harSa thayo. muMbaIthI nIkaLatAM pahelAM meM mArA e jApAnI mitrane patramAM jaNAvyuM hatuM ke huM mArAM patnI sAthe rio-Dika pA-12

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178 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe jAnero javAno chuM. meM tArIkho paNa jaNAvI hatI, paraMtu yoziteru numATAno koI javAba nahoto. joke javAbanI koI apekSA paNa nahotI, kema ke kyAreka kyAreka ame varSamAM eka-be vakhata ekabIjAne aniyamitapaNe khuzIkhabaranA patra ke grITiMga-kArDa lakhIe chIe, eTale yoziteru numATA amArA mATe cheka sAo pAulomAM vyavasthA karAvaze evI kalpanA to kyAMthI hoya ? AthI kasToDiyono phona AvatAM ame sukhada Azcarya anubhavyuM. meM kasToDiyone amArA kAryakramanI vAta karI. hoTelanI vyavasthA pote karaze ema emaNe kahyuM. eno artha e thayo ke amAre mahemAna tarIke javAnuM che. videzamAM koI sthaLathI mAhitagAra na hoIe, pahelI vAra jatAM hoIe ane temAM paNa bhASAno ane videzI calaNanI karakasarano prazna hoya tyAre AvuM nimaMtraNa AvakAradAyaka thaI paDe che. kasToDiyo sAthe phona para vAta pUrI thatAM meM pAna-amerikanane phona karyo, ane ame sAo pAulonI hoTelanuM rijharvezana rada karAvyuM. niyata divase sAMje ame sAo pAulo pahoMcyAM. eNrapaoNrTa upara kasToDiyo ane bIjA keTalAka jApAnIo amane levA AvyA hatA. kasToDiyone jotAM ja amane thayuM ke teo koI bhAratIya jevA dekhAya che. meM temane kahyuM, "tame bhAratIya ho evA lAgo cho, sAcI vAta ?" 'o "hA, taddana sAcI vAta. huM bhAratIya chuM. govAno vatanI chuM." kasToDiyoe sAthe AvelA jApAnIono paricaya karAvatAM kahyuM, mi. sasAkI; tamane kadAca khabara haze ke yoziteru numATAe hamaNAM brAjhilamAM miToyo kaMpanInuM navuM kArakhAnuM zarU karyuM che. enA menejara tarIke sasAkI jApAnathI sahakuTuMba AvyA che. A zrImatI sasAkI ane A emano dIkaro... ane A mi. kAnAtAnI, AsisTaMTa menejara.' eNrapaoNrTanI badhI vidhi patAvI ame kAramAM beThAM. amArI rahevAnI vyavasthA sAo pAulonI moMghAmAM moMghI hoTela hilTanamAM karavAmAM AvI hatI. ame tyAM pahoMcyAM. rojanA savAso DaoNlaranA daranI A hoTela hatI. SaTkoNa AkAre bAMdhelI ane pratyeka rUmamAM eka AkhA kAcanI dIvAlavALI A uttuMga hoTelanA soLamA mALe rUmamAM beThAMbeThAM AkhuM sAo pAulo dekhAtuM hatuM. navAM baMdhAyelAM aDoaDa bahumALI makAnone lIdhe eno gIca vistAra vadhu gIca lAgato hato. dUra dUra eka UMcA makAnanI Toce ilekTronika lAla nIona lAiTa vaDe samaya tathA TemparecaranA moTA AMkaDA dekhAtA hatA.

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sAo pAulo ane sujhAno 179 hoTelamAM pahoMcatAM ja badhAMne mATe kaoNphI maMgAvAI. daramiyAna kasToDiyoe kahyuM ke amAruM sAMjanuM jamavAnuM emaNe potAnA ghare rAkhyuM che. emaNe te mATe potAne ghare phona karI amArA AgamananA samAcAra ApI dIdhA. kaoNphI pItAM pItAM meM kahyuM, "mi. kasToDiyo, riothI tamArI sAthe phona para vAta karI tyAre je rIte tame iMgliza bhASA uccAratA hatA te parathI ja mane vahema paDyo hato ke tame brAjhiliyana nathI. tame bhAratIya cho ane govAnA vatanI cho e jANI mane kharekhara khUba AnaMda thayo. ATale dUra koI bhAratIya sajjana maLe e paNa amArA jevA pravAsIone mATe bahu gamI jAya evI vAta che." "mane paNa ghaNAM varSe tamArA jevA eka bhAratIya daMpatIne maLIne bahu AnaMda thayo. jANe atyAre huM bhAratamAM Avyo houM eTalo harSa thAya che... paNa DaoN. zAha, eraporTa upara tamane joyA ane tamAro avAja sAMbhaLyo tyArathI mane ema lAgyA kare che ke huM bhAratamAM tamane kyAMka maLyo chuM. mane bhArata choDyAne paccIsathI vadhu varSa thayAM eTale kazuM yAda AvatuM nathI." huM muMbaImAM rahuM chuM ane muMbaI yunivarsiTImAM gujarAtI viSaya bhaNAvuM chuM. traNeka vakhata govA pharavA mATe gayo chuM. saMbhava che ke kadAca tyAM koI sthaLe ApaNe maLyA hoIe..." "brAjhila AvatAM pahelAM huM muMbaImAM thoDo vakhata rahyo hato. temane govAmAM athavA muMbaImAM kadAca maLyo hoIza, paNa kyAM ane kyAre te khabara nathI. paraMtu tamAro avAja mane bahu suparicita lAge che." kasToDiyoe kahyuM. "muMbaI yunivarsiTImAM joDAtAM pahelAM seMTa jheviyarsa kolejamAM meM ghaNAM varSa adhyApaka tarIke kAma karyuM hatuM." meM kahyuM. "basa, to tyAM ja tamane maLyo hoIza. tame ena.sI.sI.mAM oNphisara hatA ?" "hA, ghaNAM varSa. huM chelle mejara tarIke nivRtta thayo." basa, to huM tamAro keDeTa chuM. eka varSa jheviyarsamAM bhaNyo hato ane ena.sI.sI.mAM keDeTa hato. huM kaoNlejanI hosTelamAM raheto hato. hosTelanI bAjunA cogAnamAM ApaNI pareDa thatI. 1951-paranI A vAta che." ekabIjAnA paricita chIe e jANatAM ja ame paraspara vadhu AtmIyatA anubhavI. meM kahyuM, "paccIsathI vadhu varSa thaI gayAM e vAtane. ApaNe sAo

Page #201
180 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe pAulomAM A rIte pharI maLIzuM evI tyAre kalpanA paNa nahIM. kevuM sukhada Azcarya ! paNa tame govA choDI ATale dUra AvavAnuM kema pasaMda karyuM ?" kasToDiyoe kahyuM, "tyAre govA porTugIjhonuM rAjya hatuM ane brAjhilamAM paNa porTugIjhonuM rAjya. brAjhilanI keTalIya kaMpanIo, bhaNelA mANasonI kheMca paDe eTale, govAnA bhaNelA ane porTugIjha bhASA jANatA yuvAnone sArI nokarInI lAlaca ApIne potAnA kharce laI AvatI. e rIte huM paNa ahIM Avyo. AvyA pachI thoDAMka varSamAM ThIka ThIka paisA bacAvI bhArata pAchAM pharavAnuM vicArato hato tyAM to eka brAjhiliyana gorI yuvatI sAthe premasaMbaMdha thayo. lagna karyA. bALako thayAM eTale brAjhilano nAgarika thaI gayo. govA pAchA pharavAne badale mA ane bahenane brAjhila bolAvI lIdhAM ane ahIM kAyamano vasavATa karyo. ahIM brAjhilamAM govA karatAM ame vadhAre sukhI chIe. ahIM rahevAne sAruM ghara che, sArI kamANI che, gADI che. ahIM kALA-gorAno bhedabhAva nathI... topaNa, alabatta, bhArata eTale bhArata. mane bhArata vAraMvAra yAda Ave che. ekabe vakhata sagAMone maLavA jaI Avyo chuM." "tame yozine nubhATAne kevI rIte oLakho ?" meM pUchyuM. huM emanI kaMpanImAM DAyarekTara tarIke kAma karuM chuM. yoziera sAo pAulo AvelA tyAre mAre emane eka sthaLe ajANatAM maLavAnuM thayeluM. mArI sAthenI vAtacItathI teo prasAra ane prabhAvita thayelA ane emaNe brAjhilamAM AvIne vaselA jApAnIone rojI maLI rahe e mATe nAnA pAyA upara potAno udyoga zarU karavAnI icchA darzAvI; te pramANe nakkI thayuM ane emanI kaMpanImAM DAyarekTara tarIke joDAI javAnI emaNe mane oNphara karI. meM e oNphara svIkArI lIdhI. tyArathI huM emanI kaMpanImAM kAma karuM chuM." kaoNphI pIne ame kasToDiyone ghare gayAM. emaNe emanI brAjhiliyana patnIno paricaya karAvyo. mArAM patnIe keTalIka bhAratIya vastuonI temane bheTa ApI. kalAkeka vAto karI ame jamavA beThAM. kasToDiyAnI patnIe dALa-bhAta, pUrI, zAka, vagere bhAratIya vAnagIo banAvI hatI. eNe e badhI bhAratIya vAnagIo banAvatAM zIkhI lIdhuM che ane teo gharamAM bhAratIya rasoI jame che, e jANIne ame rAjI thayAM. jamIne bhArata ane brAjhila vize ame ghaNI vAto karI. bIje divase sAo pAulothI 60 kilomITara dUra sujhAno nAmanA gAmamAM AveluM miTuToyo kaMpanInuM navuM zarU thayeluM kArakhAnuM jovA javAno kAryakrama kasToDiyoe amAre mATe ghaDI kADhyo. rAtre kasToDiyo amane hoTela para mUkI gayA.

Page #202
sAo pAulo ane sujhAno 181 bIje divase savAre teo amane levA mATe amArI hoTelamAM AvI pahoMcyA. ame nIce UtaryAM. gADI jarAka cheTe pArka karelI hatI eTale ame phUTapAtha upara cAlavA lAgyAM. rastAmAM chApAM ane sAmayikono eka sTola Avyo. emAM aMgrejI bhASAmAM eka dainika dekhAtAM te levA mATe huM Ubho rahyo. kasToDiyo AgaLa cAlatA hatA.. chApAnA paisA ApavA meM koTanA khissAmAMthI pAkITa, kADhyuM. chApAvALAe chApuM to ApyuM, paraMtu te mArA upara ekadama ciDhAyo. pAkITa sAme AMgaLI karIne speniza bhASAmAM jorazorathI te kazuMka babaDavA lAgyo. paisA ApavAmAM bhUlacUka thaI che ema mane lAgyuM. evAmAM kasToDiyo pAchA AvI pahoMcyA. chApAvALAnI vAta sAMbhaLI teo hasyA ane mane kahyuM, "tamArI bedarakArI mATe te ciDhAya che. ahIM sAo pAulomAM khissAkAtaruo ghaNA che ane AvI moTI hoTela pAse ajANyA pravAsIone lUMTI levA AMTA mAratA hoya che. keTalAka to hAthamAMthI pAkITa jhUMTavIne nAsI jAya che. tamAre thoDAka chUTA paisA bahAra rAkhavA joIe, jethI rastAmAM kyAMya pAkITa kADhavuM ja na paDe. rastAmAM tamArA hAthamAM jo pAkITa dekhAya ane khissAkAtarunI najare paDyuM to te tamAro pIcho nahi choDe." rastAmAM cAlatAM kasToDiyoe mane keTalAka zaMkAspada dekhAtA muphalisa mANaso batAvyA. eka vakhata ApaNuM mana vahemI banI jAya pachI hoya tenA karatAM paNa vadhu mANaso ApaNane kharAba dekhAya. sAo pAulomAM A je sUcanA maLI te amAre mATe bahu kAmanI hatI, kAraNa ke videzamAM paisA gumAI jAya to acAnaka takalIpha UbhI thAya. kasToDiyo sAthe ame gADImAM beThAM. amArI gADI sAo pAulonA eka pachI eka rastA vaTAvatI cAlavA lAgI. kasToDiyo amane te badhA vistAronI mAhitI ApatA gayA. sAo pAulono sahuthI vadhu zrImaMta vistAra kayo che te paNa amane batAvyo ane nirdhana loko rahe che te sTamsa vistAra paNa batAvyo. amArI gADIe krame krame parAMno vistAra choDI moTo dhorI rasto pakaDyo. have rastAnI baMne bAju moTAM moTAM khetaro ane chUTAMchavAyAM jhUMpaDAM dekhAvA lAgyAM. brAjhila pAse pradeza ghaNo moTo che, paraMtu enI ghaNIkharI vasati cArapAMca moTAM zaheromAM kendrita thayelI che. e zaheromAM ApaNane prajAnI samRddhi dekhAya che, paraMtu brAjhilanA grAma-vistAro atyaMta pachAta che. A vistAromAM kALA habasI lokonuM pramANa amane vizeSa jovA maLyuM. melAM phATelAM kapaDAM paherelAM garIba strI-puruSo mAthe sAmAna UMcakIne raste cAlatAM jatAM dekhAtAM hatAM.

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182 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe rastAmAM amane bIjI paNa eka navAI jovA maLI. A vistAramAM cAre bAju saMtarAMnAM ghaNAM vRkSo hatAM. e vRkSonI nIce puSkaLa saMtarAM paDelAM dekhAyAM. kasToDiyoe kahyuM, "brAjhilamAM dara varSe hajAro Tana saMtarAM ema ne ema jhADa nIce saDI jAya che, kAraNa ke saMtarAMno pAka ghaNo badho che ane bhAva eTalo nIco rahe che ke bahu dUrathI saMtarAM lAvavAnuM saMtarAMnA vepArIone posAtuM nathI. eTale dUranA pradezomAM saMtarAMno pAka badho eLe jAya che. tyAM eTalI mAnavavasati paNa nathI ke teno maphata upayoga karI zake." cAlIseka kilomITara pachI rasto nAno ane kharabacaDo banI gayo. brAjhilamAM aMgata mAlikInI gADIono vyavahAra jeTalo zaheromAM che teTalo hAI-ve upara nathI. eTale moTA hAI-ve banAvavAnuM kAma dhIre dhIre cAle che. ame sujhAno nAmanA eka gAmamAM AvI pahoMcyAM, ane tyAM AvelA miTuToyo kaMpanInA kArakhAnAmAM dAkhala thayAM. jApAnanI A jANItI kaMpanIe potAnuM kArakhAnuM sukAnomAM paNa nAkhyuM che. kArakhAnAmAM pravezatAM enA jApAnI menejara sasAkIe amAruM svAgata karyuM. jApAnanI ocA (lIlI raMganI cA) amane ahIM pIvA maLI. sasAkIe amane kArakhAnAmAM pheravyAM. brAjhilamAM gorAM ane kALAM brAjhiliyana strI-puruSo jovA maLe e to svAbhAvika che, paraMtu A kArakhAnAmAM brAjhiliyana karatAM vadhu saMkhyAmAM jApAnI majUro amane jovA maLyA. meM pUchyuM, "A badhA majUro jApAnathI AvyA che ?" kasToDiyoe kahyuM, "nA. ahIMnA sthAnika che. tamane navAI lAgaze ke AmAMnA ghaNA jApAnI majUrone jApAnI bhASA nathI AvaDatI. teo porTugIjha bhASA bole che. brAjhilamAM cAraso varSathI jApAnI lokono vasavATa che. jUnA samayamAM vahANo dvArA jApAnathI sthaLAMtara karatAM karatAM teo ahIM AvIne vasyA che. lAMbA vasavATane kAraNe temanI cAmaDI paNa have gherI banI gaI che. ahIM brAjhilamAM hajAro jApAnIo ATha-dasa peDhIthI vasyA che ane ahIMnA nAgarika banI gayA che." jApAnIo vizenI A vAta jANI amane Azcarya thayuM. vaLI amane jANavA maLyuM ke brAjhilanA moTA bhAganA jApAnIo garIba ane madhyama varganA che ane khetI athavA majUrI karI potAnuM gujarAna calAve che. brAjhilanI prajA kevI bhAtIgaLa che te amane A kArakhAnAmAM jovA maLyuM. ahIM kALI, gorI temaja kALA ane gorAnI varNasaMkara prajA che tathA yuropiyana ane jApAnIonI varNasaMkara prajA paNa che.

Page #204
sAo pAulo ane sujhAno 183 sujhAnonuM kArakhAnuM joI ame pAchA pharyA. kasToDiyoe evA rastethI gADI levaDAvI ke jethI jApAnIonI vasativALAM gAmo amane jovA maLe. eka prajA jyAre peTa mATe bhame che tyAre deza, bhASA, dharma, varNa, saMskAra vagerenA bheda ane mamatva kevI jhaDapathI bhulAya che ane bhUMsAya che tenI pratIti A garIba ane sAdhAraNa sthitivALA jApAnIone jotAM thaI. sAMja paDavA AvI hatI. ame have sAo pAulo tarapha pAchA pharyA. amArI gADI sAo pAulonA bharacaka vistAramAM dAkhala thaI. anukrame te amArI hilTana hoTela tarapha AvI pahoMcI. hoTela pAse gADIonI giradI hatI. rastAnI baMne bAju gADIo pArka karelI hatI. keTalIka gADIomAM bhabhakadAra vastromAM sajja thayelI yuvatIo beThI hatI. keTalIka yuvatIo gADInI bahAra UbhI hatI. keTalIka yuvatIo koIkanI rAha jotI hoya tema sigareTa phUMkatI hatI. keTalIka cAra-pAMcanA ToLAmAM, to keTalIka ekaladokala UbhI hatI. meM kasToDiyone kahyuM, "Aje hoTelamAM mahilAonI koI moTI pArTI ke pogrAma lAge che. ghaNI gADIo AvI che." kasToDiyoe kahyuM, "tame sAo pAulo pahelI vAra Avo cho eTale tamane ema lAge. potAnI gADI laIne AvelI A badhI zrImaMta yuvatIo sAme barAbara najara karazo to jaNAze ke e sArI cAlanI yuvatIo nathI. e badhI gharAkanI zodhamAM ahIM UbhelI che. emAMnI ghaNI to navI navI moMghI phezananA potAnA zokhane poSavA Avo dhaMdho kare che. hilTana jevI hoTelamAMthI emane eTalo moMgho bhAva ApavAvALA gharAko maLI rahe che. hilTanavALAe vAraMvAra polIsamAM phariyAda karI che, paraMtu A dUSaNa thoDoka vakhata aTake che ane pharI pAchuM cAlu thaI jAya che. duniyAmAM badhAM moTAM zaheromAM moTI hoTelamAM lAgeluM A dUSaNa divase divase vadhatuM jAya che." kasToDiyoe ApelA A vAstavika citArathI ghaDIbhara amAruM mana subdha rahyuM. hoTela pAse savAre peTa mATe rakhaDatA garIba khissAkAtaru puruSo ane sAMje zokha khAtara bhaTakatI zrImaMta bajAru strIo joIne ame viSAdayukta khinnatA ane glAni anubhavI. peTa ane paisA mANasanI pAse nIti ane cAritryanI rekhA kevI rIte oLaMgAve che teno vicAra karatAM karatAM saMta polanA nAma parathI jenuM nAma paDyuM che e sAo pAulo zaheranI hoTela hilTanamAM ame dAkhala thayo.

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ca vIsAnI samasyA laMDanathI moTaramArge ame yuropanA pravAse javA nIkaLyAM. laMDana pAse veliMgabaro nAmanA nAnakaDA zaheramAM rahetA kizorabhAI vIrANI potAnI moTaramAM amane yuropamAM pharavA laI javAnA hatA. pravAsIone yuropamAM pharavA laI javA e kizorabhAIno zokha paNa che ane vyavasAya paNa che. AphrikAthI iMglenDamAM rahevA gayA pachI dasa varSamAM cAlIsathI vadhu vakhata potAnI moTaramAM yuropanA dezono pravAsa emaNe karyo che. iMglenDathI amAro pahelo mukAma braselsamAM anilabhAI caMderiyAnA ghare hato. braselsa javA mATe phrAnsamAM thaIne javuM paDe. iMglenDathI hovarakrAphTamAM briTiza cenala oLaMgI phrAnsamAM dAkhala thatAM ja amAro vIsA tapAsAyo ane amArA pAsapaoNrTamAM sikko paDyo. pAsaporTa jotAM ja kizorabhAIe kahyuM, "are ! phrAnsano tamAro vIsA siMgala eNnTrI che. e vIsA have vaparAI gayo. ApaNe chelle phrAnsa thaIne iMglenDa pAchAM pharavAnuM che. e mATe tamAre pharIthI bIjo visA levAnI jarUra paDaze. tamAre pahelethI ja malTipala enTrIno visA levo joIto hato. yuropanI sapharamAM bane teTalA malTipala eNnTrInA visA levA joIe, kema ke A nAnA dezo ekabIjAthI najIka evI rIte AvelA che ke kyAre kyA dezamAMthI bIjI vAra pasAra thavAnI jarUra paDe te kahI zakAya nahi, khAsa karIne moTaramAM tame saphara karatAM ho tyAre." kizorabhAIne varSono anubhava hato. vAraMvAra thayelA anubhavone AdhAre teo je sUcano karatA te vyavahAru ane upayogI hatAM. beljiyama pahoMcIne ame sauthI pahelAM doDyA phrAnsano vIsI levA mATe. lAinamAM besIne keTalAka kalAko bagADyA tyAre kahevAmAM AvyuM ke bhAratIya elacI khAtAmAMthI "no oNjekzanano patra laI Avo. te pachI cAra divase vIsA maLe. paraMtu braselsamAM amAre be divasathI vadhAre rokAvAnuM nahotuM, eTale nakkI karyuM ke have jarmanImAM jaIne tyAMthI vIsA meLavavo. tyAM "no oNbrekzana'nA patranI jarUra nathI paDatI. holenDano pravAsa karIne ame jarmanInA pATanagara baoNna pahoMcyAM. sAMja

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phrenca visAnI samasyA 185 paDI gaI hatI. tapAsa karatAM jANavA maLyuM ke phrenca embasI to amArI hoTelathI pAMtrIseka kilomITara dUra hatI. kizorabhAIe sUcana karyuM ke savAre zodhatAM zodhatAM ApaNe embasImAM moDAM pahoMcIe to samayasara vIsA nahIM maLe. atyAre rAtanA ApaNe e jagyA joI AvIe to tyAM savAre pahoMcavAmAM moDuM nahi thAya. samayasara vIsA meLavavo hoya to atyAre ATalI takalIpha levI joIe." emanuM sUcana vyavahAru hatuM. jamIne ame moTaramAM phrenca embasInI jagyAnI tapAsa karavA nIkaLyAM. amArI pAse saranAmuM hatuM te pramANe ame rasto zodhatAM zodhatAM AgaLa jatAM hatAM. paNa kaMIka bhUlAM paDatAM hoIe tevuM lAgatuM hatuM. yuropamAM keTalAMka zaheromAM naMbara ane dizA ja barAbara na hoya to enA e ja raste ekane badale bIjI dizAmAM tame cAlyA jAo. pUchatAM pUchatAM javAmAM samaya paNa ThIka bagaDato hato. eTaluM ja nahi, have rastA para lokonI avarajavara sAva ochI thaI javA AvI hatI. eTale amAre koI moTaravALAne UbhA rAkhIne pUchavuM paDatuM, paraMtu evuM te badhAMne gamatuM ema na kahI zakAya. keTalAka to IzAro karavA chatAM paNa potAnI gADI UbhI rAkhatA nahi. be-eka moTaravALAe batAvyA pramANe ame thoDuMka AgaLa vadhyAM, paraMtu have rasto sUjhato na hato. parAno e zAMta vistAra hato. rastA para koI mANasa cAlato dekhAto na hato. pAchA pharavAno vicAra ame karatAM hatAM. evAmAM eka moTarakAra AvatI dekhAI. ame izAro karyo ane e UbhI rahI. aMdara beThelA sajjanane ame phrenca embasI mATe pUchyuM. temaNe kahyuM, "paNa e atyAre khullI nahIM hoya." e sajjanane aMgrejI na AvaDe ane amArA kizorabhAIne jarmana bhASA kAmacalAu AvaDe. ame e bhAIne samajAvyuM ke savAre samaya na bagaDe te mATe ame rAtanA jagyA joI levA mAgIe chIe. paraMtu amArI AvI vAta emane barAbara na samajAya e dekhItuM hatuM. emaNe prazna karyo, "tame embasImAM koI pArTImAM atyAre jAo cho ?" kizorabhAIe vAta TUMkAvavA jANI-joIne hA pADI, kAraNa ke amArI vAta te sajjana samajI zakatA na hatA. kizorabhAI amane gujarAtImAM kahe, ApaNe rasto zodhavAnuM kAma che ke bIjuM ? embasInI oNphisa rAtre khullI na hoya; eTale ApaNe rAtre jaIe chIe te koI pArTImAM jatAM hoIzuM. ema e mAne che, to bhale ema mAne."

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186 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe e sajjane amane embasIno rasto samajAvavA prayatno karyo. keTalAMka signala vaTAvavAM, kyAMthI DAbI bAju vaLavuM, kyAMthI jamaNI bAju vaLavuM, e badhuM kahyuM, paNa amane te bahu spaSTa thatuM na hatuM. bhASAno paNa prazna temAM kharo. amArI mUMjhavaNa joIne kaMIka vicAra karIne chevaTe te sajjane amane kahyuM, "ema karo, tame mArI pAchaLa pAchaLa Avo." kizorabhAIe amane kahyuM, "yuropamAM keTalIka vAra bhASA barAbara na AvaDe to ApaNA saranAmA pramANe, keTalAka bhalA mANaso potAnI gADInI pAchaLa pAchaLa dorIne ApaNane javAnA sthaLe mUkI jatA hoya che. be-pAMca miniTa mATe teo samayanI ke peTrolanI darakAra karatA nathI." te sajjananI gADInI pAchaLa amArI gADI cAlI. rAtano vakhata hato. AsapAsa rastA para khAsa kaMI avarajavara nahotI. ame emanI gADIne barAbara anusarIe ane bhUlathI bIjI koI gADInI pAchaLa pAchaLa na cAlyA jaIe eTalA mATe teo potAnI gADI dhIme dhIme calAvatA hatA. eka, be ema cAra-pAMca kilomITara sudhI emanI gADI gaI. ATale lAMbe sudhI koI batAvavA na Ave. ApaNe gADI to cUkyAM nathI ne ? amane prazna thayo. paNa nA, barAbara e ja gADI hatI. ame eno naMbara paNa manamAM noMdhI lIdho hato. gADI haju AgaLa jatI hatI. jema jema AgaLa jatAM gayA tema tema rasto vadhu nirjana banato gayo. vahema paDyo ke kyAMka ApaNane phasAvavA mATe to laI jatA nathI ne ? kAraNa ke have to gharo paNa chUTAMchavAyAM AvatAM hatAM. rastAnI baMne bAju gIca jhADI hatI ane rAtanuM ekAMta hatuM. kizorabhAI kahe, "iTalImAM ke TarkImAM ApaNe hoIe to Avo vahema paDe, paNa ahIM jarmanImAM AvuM na bane. alabatta, A mANasa ATale badhe dUra sudhI Ave che ethI navAI to lAge che. yuropamAM haju sudhI ATale lAMbe sudhI mane rasto batAvavA koI AvyuM nathI." e sajajananI gADIe eka vaLAMka lIdho ane pachI eka DhALa UtaravA lAgI. have to rasto paNa kyAMka kyAMka khADAvALo AvavA lAgyo. amane vadhAre vahema paDyo, paNa hiMmata hAryA nahIM. eka sthaLe emaNe gADI UbhI rAkhI. pAchaLa amArI gADI jaI pahoMcI. gADImAM beThAM beThAM ja e sajajane hAtha bahAra kADhI bUma pADIne kahyuM, "phrenca embasI." emaNe hAtha karyo te dizAmAM ame joyuM. tyAM phrenca embasInuM pATiyuM

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phrenca vIsAnI samasyA 187 vaMcAyuM. ame UtaryAM. e sajjanano khUba AbhAra mAnyo. tarata ja potAnI moTara teo haMkArI gayA. lagabhaga bAra kilomITara dUra potAnI gADImAM rAtane vakhate rasto batAvavA mATe e sajjana AvyA ethI amane tenA pratye khUba mAna thayuM. temanA vize zaMkAzIla thavA mATe manamAM pazcAttApa paNa thayo. kizorabhAI kahe, "yuropamAM ghaNI vAra koI koI bhalA mANasono sAro anubhava thAya che, paraMtu A mANasa to kharekhara atizaya bhalo kahevAya."

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6 bAhu guphAo maleziyAnuM pATanagara kuAlAlapura che. siMgApurathI ame kuAlAlapura pahoMcyAM ane tyAM "hoTela malAyAmAM UtaryAM hatAM. hoTela barAbara bajAranI vacce hoya evI ame pasaMda karI hatI, ke jethI thoDo samaya jyAre maLe tyAre AsapAsa laTa mAravA nIkaLavuM hoya to nIkaLI zakAya. kuAlAlapuranuM bajAra che te yuropa ke amerikAmAM vizALa jagyAmAM, vizALa makAnomAM hoya che tevuM nahi, paNa sAMkaDA rastAo ane gIca vasativALuM che. tyAM ghaNe ThekANe pheriyAo hAthalArImAM athavA rastA upara mAla pAtharIne vepAradhaMdho karatA hoya che. AvA vepAramAM puruSo karatAM strIo vadhAre hoya che, ane bhAvatAla karavAmAM te jabarI hoya che. ajANyAe sAvadha rahevuM paDe che, kAraNa ke eka ja nizcita bhAva na hovAthI chetarAI javAno bhaya rahe che. maleziyAmAM sthAnika male loko, peDhIothI vaselA dakSiNa bhAratanA loko (hinduo ane musalamAno) ane tethI paNa vahelAmoDA vasatA gayelA cInAo ema traNa mukhya prajAo che. maleziyAnI prajA Arthika dRSTie bhArata karatAM keTaleka aMze pachAta che. AvA pachAta dezomAM paradezanA musApharo pAsethI kamAvAnI kaMIka AzAe keTalAka mANaso hoTelamAM AMTA mAratA hoya che ane jAtajAtanI vastuo vecavA mATe pUchaparacha karI jatA hoya che. kuAlAlapuramAM pharavAnA sthaLo batAvavA mATe traNacAra TeksIvALAo amArI pAse AvI gayA. ame pAMca mitro hatA, eTale ekasAthe pAMca pravAsI maLI javAnI AzAe traNa judI judI TUrisTa kaMpanInA ejanTo paNa. amArI pAchaLa paDyA hatA. darekano chApelo kAryakrama ame joyo ane temAM vadhu sthaLo ochA dare batAvanAra kaMpanInI TUramAM ame joDAI gayAM. savAranA ATha vAge ame nIkaLyAM. vIseka mANo besI zake evI nAnakaDI basa hatI. basamAM daseka gorA pravAsIo hatA. temAMnA ghaNAkharA amerikana hatA. emanI sAthe ame basamAM joDAyAM. ATalA pravAsIone

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bATu guphAo 189 laIne basa UpaDI. amArA gAiDe AraMbhamAM kuAlAlaMpurano bhaugolika ane aitihAsika paricaya Apyo ane pachI rastAmAM AvatAM sthaLo vize mAhitI Apato gayo. kuAlAlaMpuramAM maleziyAnI sarakAre bAMdhelI masjida rastAmAM amane batAvavAmAM AvI. maleziyAnI moTA bhAganI vasati musalamAna che. tyAMnI sarakAra islAmI che, eTale sarakAra taraphathI maleziyAmAM keTaleka sthaLe bhavya majisTo bAMdhavAmAM AvI che. masjida joyA pachI ame rabaranA eka khetaramAM gayAM. tyAM rabaranA jhADane kevI rIte cheda pADavAmAM Ave che, kevI rIte jhADanuM dUdha vAsaNamAM ekaThuM karAya che ane temAMthI kevI rIte rabara banAvAya che te amane batAvavAmAM AvyuM. taduparAMta pArlAmenTa, nezanala myUjhiyama, mariammA hindu maMdira, rASTrIya smAraka, pheDarala sekreTariyeTa, siyAmI maMdira vagere judAM judAM keTalAMka sthaLo ame joyAM. paraMtu dareka sthaLe amAro gAiDa amane jovA mATe je samaya Apato hato tethI amane badhAMne saMtoSa thato nahoto. ame gAiDane te mATe phariyAda karI. teNe kahyuM ke pote je samaya Ape che tethI vadhAre samaya ApI zake tema nathI. vadhAre samaya ApavA jatAM bapore pAchAM pharavAmAM moDuM thaI jAya. vaLI ene lIdhe teone baporanI bIjI TUra karavAmAM moDuM thaI jAya, kAraNa ke DrAivarane eka klAka laMca mATe ApavAno hoya che. kuAlAlaMpura choDIne ame ATheka mAIla dUra nIkaLI gayA. amAre have phakta be sthaLa jovAnAM bAkI hatAM : eka to bATu guphAo ane tyAMthI pAchAM pharatAM bIjuM sthaLa te jhaverAtanuM eka kArakhAnuM. bATu guphAo pAse DuMgaranI taLeTImAM amArI basa pahoMcI. amArA gAiDe kahyuM, "guphAmAM upara javA mATe lagabhaga poNA traNaso pagathiyAM che. jemaNe caDhIne javuM hoya te caDhIne jAya; jemaNe TrolImAM besIne javuM hoya teo TrolImAM jaI zake che. guphA jovA mATe tamane vIsa miniTano samaya ApavAmAM Ave che. tame jaI Avo. huM ahIM nIce basamAM ja beTho chuM." ame badhAM guphA jovA cAlyAM. keTalAMka pravAsIo pagathiyAM caDhIne upara pahoMcI gayAM ane keTalAMka pagathiyAMnI bAjumAM ja karavAmAM AvelI, tAranA doraDA vaDe yaMtrathI upara dhIme dhIme kheMcAtI TrolImAM TikiTa laIne gayAM. pagathiyAM caDhIne upara pahoMcatAM ja mane ane mArA mitrone lAgyuM ke AvI vizALa kudaratI guphA jovA mATe vIsa miniTano samaya bahu ocho gaNAya. gAIDe ApaNane vadhAre samaya Apavo joIto hato. amArI sAthe AvelA gorA pravAsIo samayapAlananA custa AgrahI -

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190 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe hovAthI guphAnA pravezadvAramAM ja betraNa miniTa UbhA rahI, phoTA pADI, tarata nIce UtarI gayA. paraMtu ame dvidhAmAM paDyAM. guphAo be bhAgamAM hatI. baMne bhAgamAM aMdara jaIne jotAM saheje bIjI paMdara-vIsa miniTa lAge tema hatuM. amArAmAMnA eke kahyuM, "ApaNe pAMca jeTalA pravAsIo to ahIM chIe eTale ApaNane mUkIne teo basa upADI le ema huM nathI mAnato. vaLI have pachInuM chelluM sthaLa te jhaverAtanuM kArakhAnuM che. tyAM ApaNane doDha kalAka ApavAnA che. tyAM eTalA badhA samayanI jarUra nathI, paNa ApaNe kaMI kharIdI karIe e lAlace tyAM ApaNane vadhAre samaya ApavAnA hoya ema lAge che. mATe jarUra e kharIdImAM gAIDanuM kamizana hovuM joIe." aMdaraaMdara vicAra karI ame nakkI karyuM ke ApelA samaya karatAM paMdara miniTa vadhAre levI. ane kadAca basa UpaDI jAya (videzomAM pravAsIne moDuM thAya to ghaNI vAra basa upADI devAmAM Ave che, to jAte TeksI karIne hoTela upara pahoMcI javAnI taiyArI rAkhavI. ame guphAmAM dAkhala thayAM. jema jema AgaLa gayA tema tema bahArathI aMdhArI dekhAtI guphA aMdarathI UMDI ne UMDI jaNAI. DuMgaranI Toca upara A virATakAya kudaratI guphA che. AgaLa jatAM jyAM aMdhAruM thavA mAMDyuM tyAM guphAmAM vacce paththaranI eka pagathI, bAjumAM jhAlavAnA kaTheDA sAthe banAvavAmAM AvI che. baMne bAju thoDe thoDe aMtare lAiTanI evI vyavasthA che ke jethI guphAnA aMdhArAmAM paNa khyAla Ave. bIjI mukhya guphA UMDI ke lAMbI nathI, paNa ghaNI ja vizALa che. temAM I. sa. 1891mAM subrahmaNya svAmInuM hindu maMdira karavAmAM AvyuM che. ane tyArathI dara varSe tyAM jAnyuArI mahinAmAM 'thAI pusamano utsava UjavAya che. baMne guphA joIne ame nIce UtaryA. amAre paMdara miniTa moDuM thayuM hatuM tethI gAiDa ciDAyo hato. ame kahyuM, "AvI sarasa adabhuta jagyA mATe tame phakta vIsa miniTa Apo te barAbara na kahevAya. vIsa miniTa to upara javA-AvavAmAM vaparAI jAya che. samaya ocho lAgyo eTale TeksI karavAnA jokhame ame paMdara miniTa vadhAre lIdhI che te mATe kSamA mAgIe chIe. tame amArI rAha joI te mATe tamAro AbhAra." amArI sAthe AvelA gorA pravAsIo amAre moDuM thayuM eTale moTuM caDAvIne beThelA hatA. alabatta pote guphA nirAMte na joI zakyA te mATe keTalAkane aphasosa paNa thayo. TUrisTa kaMpanInI AvI vyavasthA mATe temaNe paNa potAno kacavATa vyakta karyo.

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bATu guphAo 191 amArI basa UpaDI. thoDI vAramAM jhaverAtanA eka kArakhAnA pAse te AvI pahoMcI. koIkanI aMgata mAlikInuM e kArakhAnuM hatuM. temAM eka bhAgamAM judA judA kImatI paththarone ghasavAnuM ane pAlIsa karavAnuM kAma cAlatuM hatuM. vividha prakAranAM ghareNAM tyAM banI rahyAM hatAM. kArakhAnAnA mAlike badhAMne kArakhAnuM pharIne batAvyuM. joke amane keTalAkane temAM kAMI rasa paDyo nahi, kAraNa ke bhAratamAM AvAM kArakhAnAMnI navAI nathI. kArakhAnuM joIne ame enA vecANa vibhAganA vizALa zo-rUmamAM dAkhala thayAM. pravezadvAramAM ja suMdara vastrothI susajja be yuvAno UbhA hatA. te selsamena hatA. temaNe amane darekane kokAkolA athavA oNrenjanI bATalI ApavA mAMDI. mane temanA svAgatamAM kRtrimatAnI gaMdha AvI. meM manamAM vicArI lIdhuM ke ApaNe jo kaMI paNa kharIdI karavI na hoya to pachI emanuM ApeluM, ThaMDA pINuM pIvuM na joIe. meM te levAnI nA pADI. amArAmAMnA be mitroe tema chatAM kokAkolA lIdhuM ane pIdhuM. gorA lokoe paNa te pIdhuM. zo-rUmamAM jhaverAta uparAMta bheTa ApavAlAyaka paracUraNa nAnImoTI ghaNI vastuo hatI. ame te jotAM gayAM. je kAunTara pAse ame pahoMcIe ke tarata ja te kAunTara uparano selsamena kAcanA kabATamAMthI jAtajAtanI vastuo jhapATAbaMdha kADhe ane kharIdavA mATe bahu ja Agraha kare. vaLI koI vastumAM jarAka rasa batAvyo ke tarata bila paNa banAvI kADhe. amAre to koI vastu kharIdavI nahotI eTale jhaDapathI cakkara lagAvI bahAra nIkaLyAM. nIkaLatAM ja daravAjAmAM eka selsamena Ubho hato. eNe amane darekane pUchayuM, "tame zuM kharIdhuM ?" * ame dareke kahyuM, "kazuM nahi." eNe amArAmAMnA je be jaNe kokAkolA pIdhuM hatuM temane UbhA rAkhIne kahyuM, "ame tamane moMdhuM kokAkolA pAyuM che ane tame kazI kharIdI na karo te tamArA mATe sAruM na kahevAya. tamane je ThIka lAge te nAnAmAM nAnI koI paNa vastu kharIda karo, ethI amane AnaMda thaze." AthI amArA e be mitro zaramAyA ane mUMjhAyA. kahenAre eTaluM kharAba moDuM karIne tochaDI bhASAmAM kahyuM hatuM ke amArA mitrone viveka khAtara kharIdI karavA pAchA pharavuM paDyuM. meM emane sUcana karyuM ke "AkhA zo-rUmamAM ochAmAM ochA bhAvanI vastu te pikyara posTakArDa che ane kemerAnA rola che. joke enA paNa ahIM bajAra karatAM bamaNA bhAva che. tame pAMcadasa rUpiyAnI vastu kharIdIne Avo."

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pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe amArA mitra e kharIdIne AvyA. pelA gorA pravAsIomAMthI keTalAke jAtajAtanI vastuo kharIdI hatI kema ke emane te bhAva posAya evA hatA. dareke zI zI vastu kharIdI che te amAro gAiDa pUchato jAya ane enA manamAM noMdha rAkhato jAya. chevaTe amane badhAMne basamAM besADIne pharI pAcho te zo-rUmamAM gayo. potAnuM kamizana levA ja te gayo e spaSTa hatuM. ame ochA pravAsIo hatA ane temAM paNa kharIdI karanArA to aDadhA ja hatA. dhAryA karatAM ghaNo ocho samaya vaparAyo. pariNAme ame hoTela upara nirdhArita samaya karatAM aDadho kalAka vahelAM pAchAM. pharyAM. 192 zahera-darzanano kAryakrama utAvaLe karAvavA mATe gAiDa pratye amArAM badhAMnAM manamAM kacavATa hato. vaLI bATu guphAomAM vadhu samaya levA mATe tathA jhaverAtanA zo-rUmamAMthI khAsa kazuM na kharIdavA mATe amArA pratye gAiDanA manamAM je roSa hato te ame joI zakatAM hatAM. eTale ja chUTA paDatI vakhate gAiDe ane ame pravAsIoe pharaja khAtara paraspara AbhAra mAnyo, paraMtu e kevaLa aupacArika ane uSmArahita hato.

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navA varSanI bheTa mArA mitra zrI mahendrabhAI jI. mahetAnI bhalAmaNathI huM phijInA pATanagara suvAmAM tyAMnA jhaverAtanA vepArI "jogiyA javelarsa nAmanI peDhInA mAlika zrI kAnajIbhAI jogiyAne tyAM Utaryo hato. suvA dakSiNa pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM AveluM, samudrataTathI zobhatuM, nAnuM paNa raLiyAmaNuM nagara che. kAnajIbhAInI sAthe suvA ane tenI AsapAsanA pradezamAM huM pharyo. tyAra pachI suvAnI pAse UllU TApu uparanA korala rIpha (Coral Reef-samudramAM chIcharAM pANI nIce khaDako upara jAmelAM vividha prakAranAM paravALAM) jovA javAno kAryakrama ame vicAryo. kAnajIbhAInA gharathI lagabhaga eka kilomITaranA aMtare samudrakinArethI Ululu TApunA pravAsa mATenI sTIma-loMca roja savAre UpaDe che. ame savAre nava vAge gharethI nIkaLyA, paraMtu niyata samaya karatAM be-traNa miniTa moDA pahoMcyA. sTIma-loMce tyAre laMgara upADI lIdhuM hatuM, eTale amAre Ulluno kAryakrama bIjA divasa upara rAkhavo paDyo. - kAnajIbhAIe kahyuM, "Ullu have AvatI kAle jaIzuM; Aje cAlo, tamane esa.pI.yu. batAvuM." "esa.pI.yu. eTale ?" meM pUchyuM. "eTale sAutha pesiphika yunivarsiTI, phijImAM phakta A eka ja yunivarsiTI che ane te esa.pI.yu.nA TUMkA nAmathI ja vadhAre jANItI che." meM kahyuM, "e yunivarsiTI jovAnuM mane jarUra gamaze, kAraNa ke e to amAruM kSetra che. duniyAnI judI judI yunivarsiTIonI mulAkAta levI te mAre rasano viSaya che." ame gADImAM beThA. kAnajIbhAIe kahyuM, "ApaNe dukAna taraphathI gADI laIe. koI agatyanI TapAla AvI hoya to te huM jarA joI lauM." ame temanI dukAna pAse pahoMcyA. gADImAMthI UtaratAM ja eka bhAI maLyA. kAnajIbhAIe emane mAro paricaya karAvatAM kahyuM, "A amArA mahemAna DaoN. ramaNalAla zAha, inDiyAthI pharavA AvyA che. pahelI jAnyuArIe pa-13

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194 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe okalenDa javAnA che. huM temane atyAre esa.pI.yu. laI jAuM chuM." kAnajIbhAIe temano paricaya karAvatAM kahyuM, "A zrI ... paTela, amArA suvAnA e bahu moTA zrImaMta vepArI che. phijI uparAMta oNsTreliyA ane nyUjhIlenDamAM paNa temano vepAra cAle che." - zrI paTele kahyuM, "kAnajIbhAI, DaoNkTarasAhebane yunivarsiTI batAvavAno lAbha mane Apo. huM atyAre phrI chuM." thoDI AnAkAnI pachI kAnajIbhAIe chevaTe saMmati ApI. mane paNa thayuM ke traNa divasathI roja emano samaya lauM chuM to Aje bhale teo dukAnanuM kAma saMbhALe. zrI paTela sAthe emanI gADImAM huM beTho. temaNe kahyuM, "DaoNkTarasAheba, tamAre moDuM nathI thatuM ne ?" "nA, jarAya nahi." "to pahelAM ApaNe ghera cA-pANI laIe. pachI esa.pI.yu jaIe." "bhale." rastAmAM zrI paTele phijImAM emanA kuTuMbe kevI rIte vasavATa karyo teno rasika itihAsa kahyo. temaNe kahyuM : "ame naDiyAda pAsenA eka gAmanA vatanI. mArA pitAjI ahIM hAthe-page AvelA. phijI eTale AphrikAno pradeza ema samajIne amArI jJAtinA lagabhaga doDhaso mANasa TikiTa kaDhAvIne sTImaramAM beThelA. lagabhaga sATha varSa pahelAMnI A vAta che. badhA abhaNa; gujarAtI bhASA paNa pUrI lakhatAM-vAMcatAM AvaDe nahi; khetI kare. sthiti bahu garIba. jiMdagImAM pahelI vAra muMbaI AvyA ane pahelI vAra sTImaramAM beThA. e divasomAM pAsaporTa ke vIsAnI koI mAthAkUTa nahIM.' ghaNA divase sTImara oNsTreliyAnA siDanI baMdare AvI pahoMcI. amArA vaDIlo badhA gabharu, gorA loko sAthe vAto karatAM dhrUje vAta karavAnuM ja TALe. siDanI baMdara AvyuM eTale katAne e jAhera karyuM, paraMtu amArA vaDIloe siDanInuM nAma jiMdagImAM koI divasa sAMbhaLeluM nahIM. gorA lokonA uccAra judA, eTale teo badhA "siDanIne badale "phijI samajyA. badhA siDanI baMdare UMtarI paDyA ! paradezano A pahelavahelo anubhava hato. kyAMthI kyAM javAya tenI gatAgama na hatI. gAmamAM jaI potAnAM oLakhItAnAM nAma pUche, paraMtu koI maLyAM nahIM." daramiyAna sTImara to UpaDI gaI hatI. mAthe poTalAM UMcakI AsapAsa dasa-paMdara mAIlamAM ghaNAM phAMphAM mAryo. pachI temane samaja paDI ke

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navA varSanI bheTa 15 teo bIjI koI jagyAe AvI pahoMcyA che. phijI to haju ahIMthI lagabhaga be hajA2 mAIla dUra sTImaramAM javAnuM che, te mATe pharI bIjI TikiTa kaDhAvavI paDe, paraMtu potAnA gujarAna mATe paNa koInI pAse pUratA paisA nahotA. eTale badhAne tarata majUrIe lAgI javuM paDyuM. "koI jaMgalomAM jhADa kApavA mATe, koI rasto banAvavA mATe, koI makAna bAMdhavA mATe, koI khetaromAM gorA lokone madada karavA mATe kAme lAgI gayA. cAra-cha mahinA khUba kALI majUrI karI. gorA lokonAM mAra ane apamAna sahana karyA. dhIme dhIme paisA bacAvyA ane sTImaranA bhADA jeTalA paisA thayA eTale sTImara pakaDI phijI AvI pahoMcyA. ahIM phijImAM paNa zarUAtamAM bahu kaparI majUra karavI paDI. paraMtu pahelA vizvayuddha vakhate teo ThIka ThIka paisA kamAyA ane bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate to lAkhopati thaI gayA. ene lIdhe Aje ame paNa paiseTake bahu sukhI chIe; joke ame khAsa kaMI bhaNyA nathI." ' zrI paTele rastAmAM potAnI moTI moTI dukAno ane mAlikInAM gharo batAvyAM. tyAra pachI thoDe dUra AvelA temanA baMgale ame pahoMcyA. cApANI lIdhAM. zrI paTele potAnA kuTuMbanA sabhyono mane parirAya karAvyo ane cAra-pAMca mitrone phona karI jaNAvyuM ke, "InDiyAthI DaoNkTara ramaNabhAI AvyA che, anukULatA hoya to sADAbAra vAgye dukAne Avajo." | zrI paTela sAthe esa.pI.yu. javA huM nIkaLyo. rastAmAM emanI sAthe zI vAta karavI te huM vicArato hato. tyAM to emaNe ja mane pUchyuM, "InDiyAmAM Ayurvedika davAo kaI kaMpanInI sArI Ave che ?" meM kahyuM, "ghaNI kaMpanIonI Ave che. paraMtu temAM jhaMDu, dhUta pApezvara, caraka, vaidyanAtha vagerenI davAo sArI gaNAya che." mane javAba AvaDyo tethI AnaMda thayo. manamAM thayuM ke AvuM thoDuM sAmAnya jJAna hoya to sAruM; aparicita mANasa sAthe prathama mulAkAte mUMgo besI rahevAno vakhata na Ave. thoDI vAre zrI paTele pharI pAcho prazna karyo, Ayurvedika davAo sArI ke elopathInI ? tamAro zo anubhava che ?" "keTalAka rogomAM Ayurvedika davAo bahu akasIra hoya che. vaLI, emAM mAphaka na Ave topaNa nukasAna khAsa hotuM nathI. paraMtu te davAo dhIraja mAgI le che, kAraNa ke teno korsa lAMbo hoya che. keTalAka

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196 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe rogomAM elopathInI davAo bahu akasIra hoya che. tenI asara tarata ja thAya che ane roga maTI jAya che." Ama vAto karatAM karatAM ame sAutha pesiphika yunivarsiTImAM pahoMcyA. yunivarsiTInuM kempasa UMcAIvALA zAMta ramaNIya vistAramAM AveluM che. A kaeNmpasa dhIme dhIme vikasI rahyuM che. navAM navAM makAno taiyAra thaI rahyAM che . ane navA navA vibhAgo khUlI rahyA che. zrI paTele kahyuM, "amArI yunivarsiTImAM vidyArthIo ochA che, paraMtu rAjayanI eka ja yunivarsiTI hovAthI paisAnI koI takalIpha nathI. sAro pagAra ApI ame videzamAMthI paNa adhyApako lAvIe chIe. keTalAka adhyApako inDiyAthI paNa AvyA che. joke amArA chokarAo ahIM bahu bhaNatA nathI, ane je sAruM bhaNe che te nyUjhIlenDa, oNsTreliyA ke inDiyA bhaNavA jAya che." yunivarsiTInA kempasamAM ghaNA vidyArthIone sigAreTa pItAM jo I kahyuM, "A sigAreTanuM vyasana duniyAnI ghaNI yunivarsiTIonA kempasamAM pahoMcI gayuM che." zrI paTele kahyuM, "amAre tyAM sigAreTa e koI moTI vAta nathI. amArI yunivarsiTI to ethI paNa AgaLa vadhelI che. amArI yunivarsiTIe pote ja cA-pANInI kenTIna sAthe dArUno bAra paNa cAlu karelo. vidyArthIo ane adhyApako vargamAMthI chUTIne dArU pIe, keTalAka vidyArthIo to ghera AvI sIdhA bAramAM dAkhala thAya. mitro sAthe dArU pIdhA kare ane tyAMthI sIdhA ghera pAchA jAya. ahIM dArUnA nazAnA kAraNe keTalIka vakhata vidyArthIonAM judAM judAM jUthanI vacce mArAmArIo paNa thaI che. yunivarsiTIe A tophAnone kAraNe hamaNAM dArUno bAra baMdha karI dIdho che." meM kahyuM, "duniyAnI ghaNI yunivarsiTIonA vidyArthIo ghare ke bahAra madyapAna karatA hoya che. tyAM e asvAbhAvika ke anaitika manAtuM nathI. alabatta, yunivarsiTInA kempasamAM yunivarsiTI taraphathI dArUno bAra cAlato hoya evuM javalle ja jovA maLe. bhAratamAM kAyadAthI dArUbaMdhI karavAmAM AvI che evI vAta ghaNA videzIone navAIbharelI lAge che." yunivarsiTI joI ame pAchA pharyA. rastAmAM zrI paTele pUchyuM, "DaoN. zAha, tame pahelI jAnyuArIe ja okalenDa javAnA cho ? navuM varSa phijImAM karo ne !".

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navA varSanI bheTa 197 nA, jI. mAro kAryakrama badho goThavAI gayelo che. joke 31mIe rAtre bAra vAge navuM varSa phijImAM UjavIza ane pahelIe savAre jaIza." "okalenDa pharavA mATe ke kaMI kAma mATe ?" "basa, pharavA mATe." kyAM UtaravAnA cho ?" TrAvela laoNja nAmanI hoTelamAM meM rijharvezana karAveluM che." "hoTelamAM zA mATe Utaro cho ? ApaNuM ghara tyAM che. mAro nAno dIkaro tyAM rahe che. tyAM tame Utarajo. ApaNe oNphise pahoMcIe eTale tarata huM phona karI daIza. e tamane eraporTa para levA Avaze. tamane okalenDamAM badhe pheravaze." nyUjhIlenDanA pATanagara okalenDamAM huM pahelI vAra jato hato, eTale zrI paTelanI A udAra AtithyabhAvanAthI AnaMdita thaI gayo. videzamAM AvI keTalIka sagavaDa meLavavA mATe keTalIka vAra to bhalAmaNapatro ekaThA karavA paDatA hoya che. tene badala ATalA alpa paricaye zrI paTele sAmethI mAre mATe karelI A darakhAsta mane AvakAradAyaka lAgI. ame zrI paTelanI oNphise pahoMcyA. bahAra taDakAmAM pharIne AvyA hatA eTale erakaMDizanDa oNphisamAM besatAM ThaMDaka anubhavI. amArA mATe ThaMDAM pINAM AvyAM. daramiyAna zrI paTele okalaeNnDa sIdho naMbara joDIne potAnA dIkarAne pahelI jAnyuArInI mArI phalAITanI ane eraporTa upara levA AvavAnI sUcanA jaNAvI dIdhI. e mATe meM emano AbhAra mAnyo. tyAra pachI zrI paTele bahAra beThelA eka bhAIne bolAvyA. AvIne temaNe mane eka phAila hAthamAM ApI ane kahyuM, "mane chAtImAM bahu bhAra lAge che, paNa pANI pIuM to sAruM lAge che. koIka vAra hAtha-paga kheMcAya che ane thAka bahu lAge che." mane tarata samaja na paDI ke A bhAI potAnA daradanI A badhI vAta mane zA mATe kare che ? phAila jotAM jaNAyuM ke e judA judA dAktarI riporTanI phAIla che. mane vahema paDyo ke teo mane meDikala DokTara to nahi samajatA hoya ?! meM temane kahyuM, "bhAI, huM dAktara nathI. A mATe tame koI dAktaranI salAha lo."

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198 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe eTalAmAM zrI paTelano moTo dIkaro AvI pahoMcyo. eNe paNa mArA hAthamAM phAila mUkIne kahyuM, "mane khAvAnuM kaMI pacatuM nathI. divasanA AThadasa vakhata TaoNyaleTa javuM paDe che." meM ene paNa kahyuM, "bhAI, huM pIeca.DI. DaoNkTara chuM, meDikala DokTara nathI." tyAM zrI paTele vacce ja kahyuM, "DaoNkTarasAheba, tame pIeca.DI.nA DaoNkTara ho ke homiyopathInA, tenI amane bahu paMcAta nathI. amAre ahIM phijImAM to DaoNkTara eTale DaoNkTara. tame davA barAbara lakhI Apo eTale basa. tamArI je kaMI phi haze te jarUra ApIzuM. te mATe bephikara rahejo." . meM vAraMvAra spaSTatA karI, paraMtu mArI vAta temane gaLe UtarI nahIM. balka huM irAdApUrvaka dAktarI tapAsa karavAnuM TALuM chuM tevo temane vahema paDavA lAgyo. haju bIjA traNa jaNa potAnI meDikala phAila laIne mArI rAha jotA beThA hatA ! paraMtu meM temane AgrahapUrvaka samajAvI vidAya karyA. mArI A vAtathI zrI paTela nirAza thaI gayA. temanA utsAhamAM thoDI maMdatA AvI gaI.. muMbaImAM kaI kaI haoNspiTalo sArI che, tathA keTalAMka oNparezana mATe kayA DaoNkaTara sArA che e viSe emaNe pUchelA praznonA, alabatta, meM AvaDyA evA javAba ApyA, kAraNa ke tema na karavAmAM sAmAnya saujanyano abhAva temane kadAca jaNAya. Amatema thoDI vAto cAlI. zrI paTele pUchayuM, "DaoNkTarasAheba, okalenDa javA mATe tamArI pAse sAmAna keTalo haze ?" eka baeNga ane eka eTecI. lagabhaga bAreka kilo. tamArA dIkarA mATe kaMI mokalavuM hoya to jarUra Apajo." nirAzAthI ThaMDA paDI gayelA vAtAvaraNamAM uSmA ANavA meM dAkSiNya dAkhavyuM. - "basa, eTalA mATe ja tamane pUchyuM. eka baoNksa tamArI sAthe mokalavAnuM che." jarUra. mane bahu AnaMda thaze. zAnuM baoNksa ?" eka moTo reDiyo-seTa che. mArA dIkarA mATe navA varSanI bheTa che. paraMtu tame okalenDamAM kasTamsamAM pahelethI reDiyo Dikalera karatA nahIM. jo ema ne ema nIkaLI jAya to ThIka, ane jo ceka thAya to tenI DyuTI mAro dIkaro bharI deze."

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19 navA varSanI bheTa - "huM to inDiyana TUrisTa tarIke jAuM chuM. mArAthI evI rIte reDiyo laI javAya che ane tyAM AvI rIte ApI zakAya ?" "tenI tame phikara nahIM karatA. amAre badhe oLakhANa che. mAro dIkaro kasTamsamAM badhuM patAvI deze." huM vimAsaNamAM paDyo. AvI rIte koInAM saMpetarAM laI javAthI videzapravAsamAM aNadArI muzkelI AvatI hoya che evI keTalIka vAto sAMbhaLelI che. koIka vAra mokalanAre temAM bIjI ja koI vastu saMtADI hoya che. huM mUMjhavaNa anubhavavA lAgyo. eka bAju emano dIkaro eraporTa upara levA Ave, ghare utAre, olaeNnDamAM badhe pherave, ane bIjI bAju emanuM eka saMpetaruM laI javAnI mAre "nA" pADavI paDe evI sthiti thaI. meM tvarita nirNaya karI lIdho ane hiMmatapUrvaka kahyuM, "tamAro reDiyo huM nahi laI jaI zake to te mATe mane mApha karazo. mane kasTamsamAM khoTuM bolavAnuM AvaDaze nahi ane gamaze nahi. mATe bIjI koI cIjavastu ApavI hoya to jarUra Apo ke jemAM kasTamsanI dRSTie koI muzkelI na paDe." mArA zabdonI asara zrI paTelanA gaMbhIra banatA jatA caherA para joI zakAtI hatI. emaNe kahyuM, "zUTI-penalTI bacAvavA mATe to ame A badhuM tamArA mATe karIe chIe. okalenDamAM zaherathI eNrapaoNrTa keTaluM badhuM dUra che tenI tamane khabara che ? TeksInA keTalA badhA DaoNlara thAya che ! vaLI, tyAM hoTelo keTalI badhI moMghI che tenI tamane kyAM khabara che ? ATalA ochA paricaye ame tamArA mATe ATalI badhI sagavaDa karIe ane tame amAruM ATaluM nAnuM sarakhuM kAma na karo ?" bolatAM bolatAM zrI paTelanA avAjamAMthI saumyatA krame krame adazya thatI jatI hatI. huM mauna rahyo. reDiyo laI javAnI mArI saMmati nathI tema samajatAM zrI paTele tarata okalenDa pharIthI phona joDyo ane dIkarAne kahyuM, "DaoNkTara reDiyo laI AvavAnI nA pADe che, mATe have tAre eraporTa para AvavAnI jarUra nathI. teo hoTelamAM Utaraze." mArA inakArano ATalo tvarita ane kaDaka pratyAghAta paDaze tevI mane kalpanA na hatI, paraMtu paristhitie je rIte palaTo lIdho tethI ekaMdare meM rAhata anubhavI. tarata huM Ubho thaI gayo. temanI bhAvazUnya vidAya lIdhI. temanA ke temanA dIkarAnA caherA para dAkSiNya khAtara kRtrima smita paNa na hatuM.

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200 'Avajo' ke 'bhale' jevA aupacArika zabdo paNa uccArAyA nahIM. huM tarata tyAMthI kAnajIbhAInI dukAne pahoMcI gayo. badhI vAta karI. kAnajIbhAIe kahyuM, "tame je karyuM te sAruM karyuM. kadAca tame zaramamAM rahIne hA pADI hota topaNa huM tamane reDiyo-seTa laI javA na deta. tamArA gayA pachI kaMIka bahAnuM kADhI emane ghera pAcho mokalata. e laI javAmAM tame phasAI jAo. kadAca jelamAM besavAno paNa vAro Ave. navA varSanI tamane barAbara bheTa maLI jAya.' pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe kAnajIbhAInI vAta sAMbhaLI huM camakyo. vaLI emaNe kahyuM, "jyAM kasTamsanA kAyadA bahu kaDaka hoya che evA dezomAM to eNrapaoNrTa upara koIka ajANyA sahapravAsIne eno sAmAna UMcakavAmAM madada karavAno viveka paNa na karavo joIe. aMdara kaMIka gerakAyade chupAvyuM hoya to ApaNe phasAI jaIe. eve vakhate to evA mANaso potAno sAmAna che ema kabUla paNa na kare." kAnajIbhAInI vAta sAcI hatI. mane bairutanA eNrapaoNrTano eka prasaMga tarata yAda Avyo. eka vayovRddha yuropiyana sannArIne vajanadAra beMga UMcakavAmAM meM madada karI tyAre pharaja paranA eka oNphisa2nI najara paDatAM teNe tarata mArA hAthamAMthI baeNga laIne e sannArInA hAthamAM pAchI soMpI dIdhI hatI. e mahilAe potAnI baeNgamAM dANacorInI koI cIjavastu nahi ja saMtADI hoya, paraMtu pravAsIoe AvI bAbatamAM sAvadha rahevuM iSTa che ema samajIne adhikArIe te pramANe karyuM hatuM. kAnajIbhAInI vAtanI tarata mane pratIti thaI. emaNe ApelI salAhathI suvAmAM videza-pravAsano eka judo ja pATha mane zIkhavA maLyo.

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5 viSAda ane ullAsa ArjenTinAnA pATanagara bonojha Airisa(Buenos Aires-no tyAMnA loko A pramANe uccAra kare che)mAM siTI hoTelamAM huM mArAM patnI UtaryA hatAM. tyAMthI cilInA pATanagara sAnatiyAgo thaIne perunA pATanagara limAM ame javAnAM hatAM. ero peru kaMpanInI phalAiTa ame lIdhI hatI. amAruM vimAna savAre sAta vAge UpaDavAnuM hatuM. eNrapaoNrTa sudhIno rasto ThIka ThIka lAMbo hato, eTale savAre pAMca vAge amAre nIkaLavAnuM hatuM. hoTelamAM rAtanA ame amAruM bila cUkavI dIdhuM, ane risepzanisTane pUchIne eraporTa javA mATe zI zI sagavaDa maLe che tenI tapAsa karI lIdhI. ArjenTinAmAM lazkarI zAsanane kAraNe phugAvo ghaNo ja che. ene lIdhe tamAma vastuo moMghI thatI jAya che. tyAM keTalAka lokone majAkamAM ema kahetA sAMbhaLyA hatA ke je bhAva savAre hoya te sAMje na hoya ane je sAMje hoya te savAre na hoya - bhAvo eTalI jhaDapathI vadhI gayA hoya ! yunAITeDa sTeTsa karatAM ArjenTinA tyAre traNa ke cAra gaNuM movuM lAge. eka kapa kaoNphI pIvAnA, ApaNA lagabhaga bAreka rUpiyA thAya. eNraporTa upara to kophI tethI paNa moMghI maLe. eka kapa garama kophI pIvAnA sattara rUpiyA cUkavatAM dhrujArI chUTe. eNraporTa pahoMcavA mATe eNra TarminalanI jo basa maLatI hoya to basamAM javAnI amArI icchA hatI, jethI dasa hajAra peso (Peso - ArjenTinAnuM nANuM - tyArano dara hato eka rUpiyo barAbara 130 peso)mAM eraporTa pahoMcI javAya. paraMtu hoTelanA risepzanisTe amane kahyuM, "eTalI vahelI savAre tamane basa nahIM maLe. mITaravALI TeksImAM eraporTa javAnA lagabhaga ekavIsa hajAra peso thAya. paraMtu vahelI savAre mITarathI koI TeksI AvatI nathI, mATe tamAre khAnagI TeksI sAthe uccaka nakkI karIne javAnuM risepzanisTe kahyA pramANe e rakama pAMtrIsa hajAra peso(lagabhaga 270 rUpiyA)nI hatI ! A TeksIbhADuM ghaNuM vadhAre (bhArata karatAM dasa gaNuM

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202 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe vadhAre) kahevAya, paraMtu te sivAya bIjo koI rasto na hato. ame risepzanisTane amAre mATe TeksI nakkI karI ApavA jaNAvyuM. risepzanisTa kahyuM, "bhale, savAre samayasara tamAre mATe TeksI AvI jaze ane tamAre pAMtrIsa hajAra peso ApavAnA raheze." amAre savAre pAMca vAge rUmamAMthI nIce UtaravAnuM hatuM. cAra vAge TeliphonanI ghaMTaDI vAgI. risepzanisTe kahyuM, "tamAre mATe TeksI taiyAra che." paNa amAre to pAMca vAge nIkaLavAnuM che. haju ame taiyAra paNa thayAM nathI." meM kahyuM. "hA, paNa TeksI vahelI AvI gaI che. tame nahi jAo to bIjA koI TeksI laI jaze." "ema kema cAle ? ame pahelethI pAMca vAgyAnuM kaheluM che." "bhale, paNa tame bane teTalAM jaladI nIce AvI jAo." jaladI jaladI taiyAra thaI ame nIce Utaryo. amAro sAmAna TeksImAM mukAyo. TaeNksI-DrAIvara sAruM iMgliza bolato hato. te vAtoDiyo ane bolavAmAM mITho hato. amane jhaTapaTa besADI tarata TeksI haMkArI. bonojha AirisamAM nyUyorkanI jema ADA ane UbhA rastAo - sTrITa evenyu - hArabaMdha Ave. eTale jarA jarA vAre signala AvyA kare ane TeksI UbhI rahe. eka pachI eka ema ghaNA badhA signala vaTAvyA pachI ame saLaMga moTA raste AvyA ane eraporTa pahoMcyAM. sAmAna utArIne TeksIvALAne ame pAMtrIsa hajAra peso ApyA to teNe levAnI nA pADI. teNe kahyuM, "mAre pistAlIsa hajAra peso levAnA che." amane navAI lAgI. ame kahyuM, "ema kema ? ame hoTelamAM pAMtrIsa hajAra pesomAM TeksI buka karAvI che." "tuM huM kAMI na jANuM, huM to pistAlIsa hajAra peso ja laIza. e mAro dara che." DrAivare mijAjathI kahyuM. "to pachI hoTelamAM pAMtrIsa hajAra paiso kema kahevAmAM AvyA ? ame barAbara tapAsa karIne A rakama risepzanisTa sAthe nakkI karelI che." "paNa risepzanisTe mane koI sUcanA ApI nathI." "cAlo ApaNe phona karIne risepzanisTa sAthe nakkI karI laIe." "mane phona karavAnI phurasada nathI. tame mAro kImatI TAIma bagADI rahyA cho." TeksIvALo irAdApUrvaka ciDAyo. ghAMTA pADIne bolavA lAgyo.

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viSAda ane ullAsa 203 AsapAsa mANaso ekaThA thavA lAgyA, paNa iMgliza na jANavAne lIdhe koI vacce paDe paNa kevI rIte ? chevaTe beMtAlIsa hajAra peso ApIne amAre vAta patAvavI paDI. babaDato babaDato TeksIvALo cAlyo gayo. amane eka pATha zIkhavA maLyo ke AvI moTI hoTelamAM paNa risepzanisTa dvArA TeksI nakkI karavI hoya topaNa TeksImAM besatAM pahelAM, khuda TeksIvALA sAthe paNa bhAva pharIthI nakkI karI levo joIe. videzomAM paNa ajANyA musApharo pAsethI vadhu paisA paDAvavAnI vRtti TeksIvALAomAM lagabhaga badhe ja hoya che ane keTalIka sArI gaNAtI moTI hoTelonA risepzanisTa paNa temanI sAthe maLelA hoya che. savAranA pahoramAM ja Avo banAva banyo tethI ame manamAM jarA khinnatA anubhavI. videzanA pravAsamAM jyAre videzI nANuM ochuM hoya tyAre A vAta ApaNane vadhAre khaTake. sAmAna laIne ame eNrapaoNrTamAM erI perunA kAunTara upara gayAM to amane jaNAvavAmAM AvyuM ke phalAiTa to cAra kalAka moDI che. ame kAunTara paranA karmacArIne kahyuM, "amAro hoTelano phona naMbara ane rUma naMbara tamArI pAse hatA. tamArI phalAiTamAM jagyA che ke nahi, te jANavA mATe ame phona karyo, tyAra pachI amArI sITa kanpharma karAvavA tamArI oNphise traNa vakhata amane hoTelamAM phona karyo. ane phalAiTa moDI thaI to tame amane jaNAvyuM kema nahi ?" "saoNrI." vaLI, vahelI phalAiTanA hisAbe eNrapaoNrTanI basane badale khAnagI TaeNksImAM amAre AvavuM paDyuM. tame amane jaNAvyuM hota to amAro samaya bagaData nahi, paisA bacata ane takalIpha paData nahi." "saoNrI." "sorI" sivAya bIjA koI zabdo karmacArI pAse nahotA. musApharo bIjI koI eralAinsanI phalAiTamAM cAlyA na jAya e bIke ghaNI vimAna kaMpanIo sAmethI A sevA jANIjoIne ApatI nathI. paNa bhUla amArIya hatI. amAre ja nIkaLatAM pahelAM phona karIne e vize tapAsa karavI joItI hatI. ame sAmAna sAthe laoNnjamAM AvIne sophA upara beThAM. TeksIvALAnA ane erakaMpanInA anubhavane lIdhe ArjenTinAnA loko mATe manamAM viSAdanI

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ra04 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe eka gherI chApa paDatI jatI hatI. chatAM manathI prayatnapUrvaka ane samAdhAna karatAM hatAM ke AvuM to duniyAmAM badhe ja bane che. ApaNA dezamAM paNa videzIone (ane khuda ApaNane potAne paNa) kaDavA anubhavo kyAM ochA thAya che ? ame beThAM hatAM eTalI vAramAM eka sajjana amArI pAsethI pasAra thayA. amArI sAme sasmita najara karI, caherA upara prasannatA darzAvI teo cAlyA gayA. koI videzI ApaNI sAme dhArIne jue to ApaNuM tarata dhyAna kheMcAya. eka-be miniTamAM ja teo potAnI patnI sAthe AvIne amArI sAme thoDe dUra UbhA rahyA, ane be hAtha joDI amane namaskAra karyA. eNrapaoNrTa upara bhAratIya pravAsIomAM ame be ja hatAM, eTale kadAca teo namaskAra karatAM haze ema ame mAnyuM. teo baMne gayAM. thoDI vAramAM bIjAM cAreka puraSo, pAMca-cha strIo ane dasa-bAra bALako sAthe teo pAchAM amArI pAse AvI pahoMcyAM. AkhuM ToLuM amArI sAme hArabaMdha UbhuM rahyuM. iMgliza to koIne AvaDe nahi ane amane speniza AvaDe nahi. eTale teo zuM kahe che te samajAtuM nahotuM. paraMtu te sajjana badhAMne be hAtha joDIne namaskAra karavA mATe sUcanA ApI rahyA hatA. badhAM khUba bhAvapUrvaka amane joI rahyAM hatAM ane eTalA ja bhAvathI namaskAra karI rahyAM hatAM. yuropiyana ke amerikana lokone be hAtha joDavAno mahAvaro nahIM; eTale pote barAbara hAtha joDyA che ke nahIM tenI khAtarI karavA teo badhAM mAMhomAMhe ekabIjAnA hAtha sAme najara karatAM hatAM. - tyAra pachI e sajjana eka bALakane hAtha pakaDIne mArAM patnI pAse laI AvyA. pachI badhAM bALakone enI pAchaLa hArabaMdha UbhA rahevA mATe sUcanA ApI. mArI patnIne izArAthI kahyuM, "A bALakone mAthe hAtha mUko ane emanA gAle bacI bharo." nAnAM bALakone bacI bharavI e dakSiNa amerikAmAM (ane bIjA ghaNA dezomAM) vahAla, zubhecchA ane AzIrvAdanA pratIkarUpe gaNAya che. mArAM patnIe te pramANe eka pachI eka badhAM bALakone mAthe hAtha pheravyo ane bacI bharI. teoe tenA keTalAka phoTA paNa lIdhA. tyAra pachI e sajjane mArAM patnI pAse badhI strIone mAthe paNa hAtha pheravAvyo. teonA badhAMnA caherA upara anero ullAsa dekhAto hato. ATalo badho bhAva teo zA mATe batAve che tenuM amane kutUhala ane Azcarya thayuM. pelA sajjane amane bhAMgItUTI bhASAmAM kaMIka izArA vaDe pUchayuM ke

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viSAda ane ullAsa 205 amAre cA-pANI levAM che ke amAre bIjI koI madadanI jarUra che ? ame nA kahI ane temano khUba AbhAra mAnyo. ajANyA lokonA A AdarasatkArathI ame anero harSa anubhavyo. prasannatAe amArA cittamAM paDelI khinnatAne kyAMya dUra dhakelI dIdhI. dUranA videzamAM eka mAThA anubhava pachI tarata Avo mITho anubhava thAya eTale paNa enuM mUlya vadhI jAya. AkhA ToLAe bhAvapUrvaka vidAya lIdhI. chelle pati-patnIe paNa amane pharI praNAma karIne vidAya lIdhI. jatAM jatAM koIka ajANyAne teone kahetAM ame sAMbhaLyAM, "inDiyana svAmI." bhAratathI kyAreka AvelA koIka sAdhu-saMnyAsI ke svAmIjI vize teo vAta karatAM lAge che ema ame mAnyuM. teo zuM kahe che te amane spaSTa na thayuM. paNa temanAM patnI mArAM patnI tarapha AMgaLI karI izArA vaDe koIkane batAvatAM hatAM ane temAM kapALamAM tilaka, gaLAmAM mALA ane sADI vize kiMIka samajAvI "inDiyana svAmI' kahI rahyAM hatAM. anumAna karatAM amane tarata samajAyuM ke mArAM patnIe kesarI sADI ane kesarI blAujha paheryA hatAM ane gaLAmAM mALA tathA kapALamAM kaMkuno lAla moTo cAMdalo hato. vaLI mArA khabhe lAla raMgano thelo hato. e parathI samajAyuM ke teo amane ja koI "inDiyana svAmI' mAnatAM lAge che. A bAju bhAratIya pravAsIo bahu ochA Ave ane temAM bhagavA vastradhArI svAmIjI to kyAreka ja AvyA hoya. temane joyAnI smRtine AdhAre teo mArAM patnIne "inDiyana svAmI samajIne bhAvapUrvaka vaMdana karatAM hatAM. vastutaH ame "inDiyana svAmI nahotAM ane temanA e mATenA vaMdananA adhikArI nahotAM. paraMtu bhArata pratyeno temano asAdhAraNa bhaktibhAva joIne ame atyaMta AnaMda ane gaurava anubhavyAM. A banAve ArjenTinAnA loko vizenI amArA manamAM prathama paDelI viSAdanI chApane ghaDIkamAM bhUMsI nAkhI. amAruM citta AnaMda, utsAha ane ullAsathI UbharAI gayuM.

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kImatI nAsto keniyAmAM kisumu nAmanA zaheramAM amAro vyAkhyAnono tathA bhaktisaMgItano kAryakrama hato. ame badhAM kismumAM "jIvarAja rAyazI enDa bradharsa - vALA yuvAna vepArI pAnAcaMdabhAIne tyAM UtaryA hatAM. kisamumAM emano vizALa AlIzAna baMgalo che. pAnAcaMdabhAIe bahu ja utsAha ane premathI be divasa amArI sarasa sabharA karI; amane potAnI vizALa dukAna ane kArakhAnuM batAvyAM; pote vecAtI lIdhelI "kisama hoTela" batAvI ane vikToriyA sarovarane kinAre amane pharavA laI gayA. | kisumuthI amAro kAryakrama elDoreTa javAno hato. ame cha jaNa hatAM ane pAnAcaMdabhAI potAnI moTI moTarakAramAM amane eNlporeTa pahoMcADavA AvavAnA hatA. keniyAmAM zahero chUTAMchavAyAM che, eTale Trena ke basano. vyavahAra tyAM ocho che. temAM paNa AphrikAnA habasI loko teno vadhu upayoga kare che. gujarAtIo ane bIjA eziyano sAmAnya rIte moTarakAra ke TeksImAM avarajavara karatA hoya che. keniyAmAM judAM judAM zahero vacce saDako moTI ane sArI che. savAre vahelA UThI, cA-pANI karI ame sahu pAnAcaMdabhAInI moTaramAM beThAM. pAnAcaMdabhAI pote moTara calAvanAra hatA. badhAMnI vidAya laI ame cAlyAM. savArano samaya hato. gulAbI ThaMDI hatI. vAtAvaraNa cittane prasannatAthI bharI de tevuM hatuM. rastAmAM TrAphika ocho hato, eTale vegathI amArI moTara cAlatI hatI. rastAnI baMne bAjue kyAreka TekarIo, kyAreka zeraDInAM khetaro dekhAtAM. thoDe thoDe aMtare nAnakaDAM gAmo AvatAM. thoDI vAre eka moTuM gAma AvyuM. pAnAcaMdabhAI kahe, "eloreTa sadhIno rasto lAMbo che. ApaNe kaMIka nAsto laI laIe. A gAmanAM biskiTa bahu vakhaNAya che." ame nA pADavAno viveka karIe te pahelAM pAnAcaMdabhAIe gADI UbhI rAkhI. UtarIne jhaDapathI cAlyA. thoDI vAramAM teo pAchA AvyA.

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kImatI nAsto 207 temanA hAthamAM chApAnA kAgaLamAM vIMTALeluM eka pekeTa hatuM. pAchaLanI sITamAM beThelAM mArAM patnInA hAthamAM te mUktAM kahyuM, "tArAbahena, A biskiTanuM pekeTa pAchaLa mUko. kyAMka resTorAMmAM cA-pANI karIzuM tyAre A biskiTa khAIzuM." pekeTa sITanI pAchaLanA kAca pAse mukAI gayuM. gADI AgaLa cAlI. ame vAto karatAM jatAM hatAM. rasto kapAto jato hato. thoDI vAre bIjuM eka gAma AvyuM. pAnAcaMdabhAI kahe, "be miniTa lAgaze. huM AvuM chuM." teo zA mATe jAya che te ame samajI gayAM. bIjuM kaMI paNa levAnI ame AgrahapUrvaka nA pADI, paraMtu te mAnyA nahIM. thoDI vAre plAsTikanI eka thelImAM mUkeluM eka pekeTa lAvI pharI kahyuM, "tArAbahena, A mIThAInuM paeNkeTa pAchaLa mUko." amArI gADI AgaLa cAlI. thoDe AgaLa gayAM. tyAM eka nAnakaDuM zahera AvyuM. eka nAnI resTorAMmAM jaIne cA-pANI karavAnuM vicAryuM. thoDI bhUkha paNa lAgI hatI. gADI UbhI rAkhI ame badhAM UtaryA. pAnAcaMdabhAIe mArAM patnIne kahyuM, "tArAbahena, biskiTa ane mIThAInuM pekeTa sAthe laI lejo." ame resTorAMmAM beThAM. cA-kaoNphI mATe oNrDara apAyo. pachI pAnAcaMdabhAI kahe, "lAvo biskiTa khAIe." mArAM patnIe pekeTa kholyuM, paraMtu aMdara biskiTa nahotAM. to zuM hatuM ? aMdara to dasa-dasa ziliMganI noTono moTo thokaDo hato. e joI ame ekadama vismayamAM paDI gayAM. pAnAcaMdabhAI kahe, "biskiTavALAnI kaMI bhUla to nahIM thaI gaI hoya ? biskiTane badale potAnI noTonuM pekeTa to bhUlathI nahIM apAI gayuM hoya ? banavA saMbhava che, kAraNa ke ahIMnA loko noTonI thappIne pastInA kAgaLomAM vIMTALIne rAkhe che, jethI bIjAnI najare te na caDe." ame kahyuM, "e vepArIne khabara paDaze to bicAro ciMtAmAM ja aDadho thaI jaze. ApaNe phonathI kaMI khabara ApI zakIe ?" - pAnAcaMdabhAIe kahyuM, "ahIM phonanI sagavaDa nathI. phona karavA mATe to koIkanA ghare javuM paDe. cA-pANI karIne pachI tarata ApaNe kyAMkathI phona karIzuM." e pekeTa tarata baMdha karIne ame mIThAInuM pekeTa kholyuM. emAMthI paNa dasa-dasa ziliMganI noTono thokaDo nIkaLyo ! pAnAcaMdabhAI kahe,

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208 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe "tArAbahena, A paeNkeTo upara tame kaMI jAduI hAtha to nathI pheravyo ne ? Ama kema thayuM ?" . * ame badhAM visAmaNamAM paDyAM. pAnAcaMdabhAI kahe, "evuM to nathI thayuM ne ke A pekeTa tamArAM hoya ane nAstAnAM paeNkeTa gADImAM paDI rahyAM hoya ? beso, huM gADImAM jaIne jouM chuM." tarata teo cAlyA. thoDI vAramAM teo be pekeTa laIne AvI pahoMcyA. kahe : "biskiTa ane mIThAInAM paeNkeTa A ja hovAM joIe." kholyAM to ekamAMthI biskiTa nIkaLyAM ane bIjAmAMthI mIThAI nIkaLI. amane navAI lAgI. Ama kema thayuM ? ame pAnAcaMdabhAIne kahyuM, "to pachI A noTonAM paeNkeTa tamArA potAnAM hovAM joIe. ame to inDiyAthI AvIe chIe. amArI pAse keniyAnI ATalI badhI ziliMga kyAMthI hoya ?" , "tame zuM ema mAno cho ke gADImAM noTonAM pekeTa huM Ama rakhaDatAM mUkuM ?" pAnAcaMdabhAIe gaMbhIratAthI amane sAmo prazna karyo. mArAM patnIe kahyuM, "paNa tyAM pekeTa to be ja hatAM ! meM barAbara joyuM che. tame ApyAM te ja pekeTa huM lAvI chuM." amArA mATe A ghaTanA rahasyabharI banI gaI. cA-pANI karIne ame noTonAM e pekeTa sAthe gADImAM beThAM. Akhe raste jAtajAtanA tarka doDAvatAM rahyAM. eNlporeTa ame "kena-niTa" kaMpanIvALA gulAbacaMdabhAIne ghare pahoMcyAM tyAre pAnAcaMdabhAIe emane A badhI ghaTanAnI vAta karI. gulAbacaMdabhAI paNa vicAramAM paDyA. thoDI vAra pachI hasatAM hasatAM pAnAcaMdabhAIe khulAso karyo, "e to mArI ugharANInAM pekeTa che. nAstAnAM pekeTa to gharethI laIne kAranI DikImAM meM mUkyAM hatAM. tamArA jevA mahemAnone eloreTa mUkavA AvuM to mArAthI ugharANI mATe rastAmAM tamane besADI rakhAya nahi. mAre elDoreTa AvavAnuM koIka vakhata bane, ane ahinAM gAmaDAMnA vepArIo rUbarU gayA vagara jaladI paisA Ape nahIM. eTale mane thayuM ke ugharANI mATe A sArI taka che. meM temane phona karIne paisAnAM paeNkeTa taiyAra rAkhavA jaNAvyuM hatuM, eTale huM jevo jato ke becAra miniTamAM pAcho AvI jato. musApharImAM hoIe ane AvI rIte ugharANIe nIkaLIe tyAre ahIMnA vepArIo phAlatu kAgaLamAM paisAnAM pekeTa bAMdhI Ape jethI koInI najare te paDe nahi."

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kimatI nAsto 209 tamane paNa sarasa majAka karatAM AvaDe che. tame ATalA badhA vinodI hazo evuM ame dhAryuM nahotuM." meM kahyuM. pAnAcaMdabhAI kahe, "ane tamAro pratApa paNa keTalo ? Aja savAranA pahoramAM pacIsa hajAra ziliMganI ugharANI vasUla thaI. kyAMya dhakko na paDyo. ahIM hA pADyA pachI paNa vepArIo dhakko khavaDAve, athavA ochI rakama Ape. bhAratathI moTA mageNI (mahemAna mATeno svAhilI bhASAno zabda) padhAryA che, ane emane gADImAM besADIne huM Avyo chuM eTaluM kahetAM ja vepArIoe ugharANInI pUrI rakama cUkavI ApI."

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Siaa baoNgoTAno anubhava " leTina (dakSiNa) amerikAmAM lokonI Arthika sthiti yuropa ke uttara amerikAnA loko jevI sArI nathI. gorI prajA Arthika dRSTie pachAta hoya to te dakSiNa amerikAnI che. AphrikA, osTreliyA ke nyUjhIlenDamAM gorI prajA paiseTake ThIka ThIka sukhI che. koI paNa prajA paisAnI bhIDamAM AvatI hoya to tenAmAM keTalAka durguNo sahaja rIte Ave che. corI, lUMTa, chetarapiMDI, svArthI manovRtti, ApeluM vacana na pALavuM, khoTI khuzAmata karavI, nAnI vAtamAM takarAra, vepAradhaMdhAmAM tIvra rasAkasI, zrImaMtonI IrSyA vagere lakSaNo e lokomAM tarata najare paDe che. gorI prajAnA saMparkamAM ApaNe AvyA tyArathI teo jIvana ane raheNIkaraNImAM ApaNAM karatAM caDhiyAtA che ema jovAne ApaNe TevAyelA chIe. yuropa ane amerikAnI gorI prajAne jotAM ApaNI e chApa daDha rahe che, paraMtu leTina amerikAnAM gAmaDAMomAM pharIe to nirdhana gorAM lokonuM eka juduM ja citra jovA maLe che. nyUyorkamAM amane cetavavAmAM AvyAM hatAM ke leTina amerikAmAM jaIe tyAre amAre amArI pAse bahu jokhama rAkhavuM nahi. basamAM ke rastAmAM jatAM-AvatAM pAkITa saMbhALavuM; rastAmAM badhAMnA dekhatAM khissAmAMthI pAkITa kADhavuM-mUkavuM nahi; eraporTa ane bIje sthaLe sAmAna sAcavavo; sAmAnane barAbara tALuM mAravuM. alabatta, bhAratIya pravAsIo mATe A badhI sUcanAo navI nathI. ApaNe bhAratamAM A badhI vAtothI sAmAnya rIte TevAyelA hoIe chIe, paraMtu yuropa-amerikAnA loko mATe te sUcanAo agatyanI che. bonojha AirisathI sAnatiyAgo, lA pAjha, limA ane tyAMthI baoNgoTA thaIne mAyAmI pahoMcavAno amAro kAryakrama hato. paraMtu bonojha AirisamAM rahetA amArA eka amerikana mitra mi. molinArIe pUchyuM : "tame begoTA javAnA cho ?" "hA, kema ?" "to tyAM bahu sAcavajo. cora zahera che. huM be vakhata gayo hato.

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baoNgoTAno anubhava 211 eka vakhata TeksImAMthI mArI baeNga UpaDI gaI hatI. bIjI vakhata hoTelanA rUmamAMthI mAro kemerA corAI gayo hato. tyAM TeksIvALA paNa cora che. ajANyA videzIone teo phasAve che." AvI vAta sAMbhaLI eTale amArA manamAM phALa paDI. leTina amerikAnA kolambiyA(Colombia)nA pATanagara baoNgoTA ame pahelI ja vAra javAnAM hatAM. ajANyo deza hato. tyAMnI bhASA amane AvaDe nahi ane iMgliza tyAM koI jANe nahi. evA zaheramAM ApaNo sAmAna corAI jAya to ApaNe acAnaka muzkelImAM mukAI jaIe. polIsamAM phariyAda karI zakAya, paraMtu teno nikAla kevo ane keTalA divase thAya te nakkI na hoya ane teTalA divasa ApaNe tyAM rokAvAnuM na hoya. saMbhALa rAkhavAne to ApaNe bhAratIya loko sahaja rIte TevAyelA hoIe, paraMtu koI sthaLe jatAM pahelAM koI ApaNane cetave to ApaNA manamAM te vize jAtajAtanA tarkavitarka thavA lAge. meM mArAM patnIne kahyuM, "A badhAM zaheromAM baoNgoTAmAM ApaNe bahu sAcavavuM paDaze." hA, paNa e bhAIe kahyuM tyArathI koNa jANe kema baoNgoTA javA mATe mAruM mana UThI gayuM che." to pachI zuM karazuM ? ApaNI TikiTa to baoNgoTA thaIne mAyAmI javAnI che." "erakaMpanIne kahIne ApaNe baoNgoTA kensala na karAvI zakIe ?" karAvI zakIe. mane paNa ema ja lAge che." meM kahyuM, "videzamAM asvastha manathI koI zaheramAM javuM enA karatAM e zahera choDI devuM e ja uttama rasto che." ame tarata sIdhA erakaMpanInI ophisamAM pahoMcI gayA ane limAthI baoNgoTA javAnI phalAITa kensala karAvI. ene lIdhe lA pAjha javAnuM paNa mAMDI vALavuM paDyuM, kAraNa ke tyAM thaIne javA mATe bIjI koI anukULa phalAITa na hatI. limAthI sIdhA uttara amerikAmAM mAyAmI javA mATenI phalAITa ame kanpharma karAvI lIdhI. bonojha Airisa, lAplATA vagere ArjenTinAnAM zaheromAM keTalAka divasa pharIne ame bonojha Airisa choDyuM. cilInA pATanagara sAnatiyAgo jaIne tyAMthI tarata ero perunI phalAiTamAM bapore traNa vAge ame limA pahoMcyAM. e phalAITa agAunAM eraporTathI moDI thavAne kAraNe tene musApharo

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212 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe bahu maLyA na hatA. limAnA eNrapaoNrTa upara ame phakta sAteka musApharo UtaranAra hatAM. ame UtaryA. kasTamsanI vidhimAMthI pasAra thatAM ochA pravAsIone kAraNe bahu vAra nahIM lAge, e vAtanI amane rAhata hatI. vaLI sAMja paDatAM pahelAM hoTelamAM nirAMte pahoMcI javAze ane eka-be kalAka bahAra pharavAno samaya maLaze e vAtano amane AnaMda paNa hato. ghaDIkamAM badho sAmAna paNa AvI pahoMcyo. saue potapotAno sAmAna oLakhIne laI lIdho. amArA sAmAnamAMthI be baeNga AvI gaI, paraMtu mArAM patnInI baeNga haju AvI na hatI. tapAsa karI to kahevAmAM AvyuM ke vimAnamAMthI ATalo ja sAmAna Utaryo che. ame ciMtAmAM paDyAM. pharaja paranA ero perunA oNphisarane phariyAda karI. vimAna haju UbhuM hatuM, eTale e jAte vimAnamAM tapAsa karavA gayo. daramiyAna je bIjA pAMceka musApharo UtaryA hatA te sahu cAlyA gayA hatA ane tarata bIjI phalAiTa na hatI eTale pharaja paranA kasTamsa adhikArIo paNa cAlyA gayA. amAro sAmAna tapAsavA mATe phakta eka adhikArIne rokavAmAM Avyo. pachI to e paNa UMconIco thavA lAgyo. "mArI DyUTI pUrI thAya che" ema kahIne thoDI vAre e paNa cAlyo gayo. cokIdAre kasTamsamAMthI bahAra nIkaLavAno daravAjo baMdha karI dIdho ane tALuM mArIne cAlyo gayo. kasTamsa vibhAgamAM have mAtra ame baMne beThAM hatAM, jANe moTI jelamAM amane na pUravAmAM AvyAM hoya ! airo perunA oNphisara vimAnamAM tapAsa karIne keTalIka vAre Avyo. eNe kahyuM, "vimAnamAM tamArI baeNga nathI. ethI nakkI thAya che ke tamArI beMga vimAnamAM caDI ja nathI." meM pUchyuM, "to pachI amAre zuM karavuM ?" "tamArI hoTelanuM nAma Apo. bIjI phalAITamAM baeNga AvI pahoMcaze eTale ame tamane jaNAvazuM." e to kharuM, paraMtu amArAM kapaDAMnI baeNga AvI nathI. vaLI amAre keTalIka cIjavastuo tarata kharIdavI paDaze, eTale tamAre ovaranAiTa elAyansa ApavuM joIe. baeNga maLatAM keTalA divasa lAgaze, te koNa cokkasa kahI zake ?" pahelAM to eNe inkAra karyo. paraMtu AMtararASTrIya vimAnasevAnA

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baoNgoTAno anubhava 213 kAyadA pramANe eNrakaMpanI AvuM bhaththuM ApavA baMdhAyelI che tenA para meM vAraMvAra bhAra mUkyo. eTale te niyama mujaba pacAsa DaoNlara ApavA saMmata thayo. paraMtu te pahelAM amAre kasTamsamAMthI bahAra nIkaLavAnuM hatuM, ane amAro sAmAna tapAsanAra koI adhikArI tyAM hAjara na hato. e na Ave tyAM sudhI daravAjo khUle nahIM ane ame bahAra jaI zakIe nahIM. eNro peruno oNphisa2 kasTamsanA eka adhikArIne keTalIka vAre zodhI lAvyo. amAro sAmAna tapAsAyo, paraMtu bahAra nIkaLavAmAM vAra lAgI, kAraNa ke daravAjAne tALuM mArIne cAlyo gayelo cokIdAra jaDato na hato. kasTamsa oNphisara gayo ane thoDI vAre tene zodhI lAvyo. daravAjo khUlyo ane ame bahAra nIkaLyAM. sAmAna sAthe ame eNro perunA oNphisara sAthe eNro perunA kAunTara upara gayAM. amArI baeNga maLI nathI te mATenAM, tathA pacAsa DaoNlaranuM bhaththuM amane ApavA mATenAM kAgaLiyAM taiyAra karavAnAM hatAM. kAunTara sAme laoNnjamAM amane besADI oNphisara potAnI oNphisamAM aMdara gayo. vimAnamAMthI UtaryAne aDhI kalAka vItI gayA hatA ane kAgaLiyAMno A vidhi karavAmAM bIjo eka kalAka vItI gayo. rAta to kyAranI paDI gaI hatI. ame e badhA kAgaLo upara sahI karatAM hatAM tyAM eka mANasa doDato Avyo. te begeja sekzanamAMthI Avyo hato. teNe kahyuM, "eNro perunI phalAiTanI eka baeNga sAmAnamAM paDI rahI che." amane thayuM ke, kadAca amArI ja baeNga haze. ame pUchyuM, "kevA raMganI bega che ?' "lIlA raMganI." teNe kahyuM ane potAnA be hAtha vaDe tenI sAijha batAvI. "nakkI e amArI ja baeNga hovI joIe." ame eNro perunA oNphisarane kahyuM. ene paNa ema ja lAgyuM. tenI tapAsa karavA mATe amAro kasTamsamAMthI pasAra thayelo sAmAna eNro perunA kAunTaramAM aMdara mUkI oNphisaranI sAthe ame begeja sekzanamAM gayAM. tyAM ghaNI baeNgo paDelI hatI. pharaja para UbhelA mANase je baeNga batAvI tene raMga, sAijha ane tALA uparathI ame tarata oLakhI lIdhI. oNphisare amArA begeja TeganA naMbara sAthe te meLavI lIdhI.

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214 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe pelA mANase kahyuM, "kanveyara belTa upara ADI thaI javAne lIdhe A baeNga kasTamsa vibhAgamAM pahoMcI nahIM, paraMtu nIce paDI gaI hatI." baeNga maLI gaI ethI amane AnaMda thayo. bhale moDuM thayuM, paraMtu amArI ciMtA TaLI. have prazna A baeNgane kasTamsamAMthI bahAra kADhavAno hato. ame eka vakhata to kasTamsamAMthI bahAra nIkaLI gayAM hatAM, ane amArA pAsaporTamAM sikkA paDI gayA hatA. eTale kasTamsanA pAchalA daravAjethI ame kasTamsamAM pharI dAkhala thayAM. eNro peruno oNphisara dareka kAunTara upara amArI vAta kaheto gayo ane ame ema jaladI nIkaLatAM gayAM. sAmAna tapAsanAra oNphisare amArI baeNga kholAvI nahi ane upara tapAsyAnI nizAnI tarata karI ApI. limAnA kasTamsamAMthI ame A rIte be vAra pasAra thayAM. bahAra AvIne ame pAchA ero perunA kAunTara upara gayAM. je badhAM kAgaLiyAM taiyAra karyA hatAM teno have kaMI artha na hato eTale te phADI nAMkhyAM. ero perunA oNphisare badhI takalIpha lIdhI te mATe teno ame AbhAra mAnyo. pachI eNro paranA oNphisarane meM kahyuM, "A baeNga traNa kalAkathI begeja sekazanamAM paDI rahI hatI to tame te vakhate tyAM paNa tapAsa karI hota athavA begeja sezanamAM pharaja paranA mANase te ja vakhate tamane jANa karI hota to amArA traNa-cAra kalAka bagaData nahIM. ane tamane A badhI takalIpha paData nahi. ATalI badhI bedarakArI bhAgye ja koI eNraporTa upara jovA maLe che." huM oNphisarane kaheto hato tevAmAM mArAM patnInI najara bega upara gaI. tarata teNe kahyuM, "amArI baeNga upara eka bAju A moTo kApo zeno paDyo che ?" oNphisare kahyuM, "kadAca kanveyara belTa upara caDhatAM beMga bIjI koI baeNga sAthe ghasAI haze." paraMtu teno kApo AvI rIte na paDe, ethI amane vahema paDyo. beganuM tALuM kholIne aMdara joyuM to kapaDAM ane vastuo astavyasta hatAM. ethI thayuM ke tALuM kholyA vagara bAjumAMthI tIkSNa hathiyAra vaDe baeNganuM DhAMkaNuM UMcuM karIne koIne kazuM kADhavAno prayatna karyo lAge che. badhI vastuo tapAsI joI to temAMthI be sADI ane bIjI keTalIka jhINI vastuo ochI thayelI jaNAI. savAre baeNga taiyAra karIne baMdha karatI vakhate je be sADI upara

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baoNgoTAno anubhava 215 mUkavAmAM AvI hatI te baeNganuM DhAkaNuM UMcuM karIne, kheMcIne kADhI levAmAM AvI che ema nakkI thayuM. ame oNphisarane kahyuM, "amane vahema paDe che ke amArI baeNga corInA AzayathI jANI-joIne begeja sekzanamAM rAkhI mUkavAmAM AvI hatI.' oNphisara bIjuM to zuM kahe ? eNe kahyuM, "limAnA A eNrapaoNrTamAM ghaNI vAra AvI rIte corI thAya che, paraMtu ahIM to lazkarI zAsana che. koI dAda-phariyAda nathI." corAyelI vastuo mATe kleima karavA mATe ame phaoNrma bharyuM ane oNphisarane ApyuM; paraMtu dakSiNa amerikAnI khoTamAM cAlatI eNra kaMpanIo pravAsInA mAtra saMtoSa khAtara AvAM phaoNrma bharAvatI hoya che, kAraNa ke eno javAba amane kyAreya maLyo nathI. baoNgoTAnI amane je bIka hatI teno anubhava limAe amane karAvI dIdho.

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gAparanI svacchatA siMgApuramAM huM mArA mitra hunedabhAI sAthe "ilijhAbetha voka' para pharavA nIkaLyo hato. siMgApuramAM e mAro pahelo divasa hato. cAlatAM cAlatAM ame AgaLa jatA hatA. siMgApuramAM tyAMnI sarakAra zaheranI svacchatA mATe bahu kaDaka che e hunedabhAIe mane kahyuM hatuM. emanI vAta sAcI hatI, kAraNa ke siMgApuranI svacchatA tarata dhyAna kheMce evI hatI. duniyAnA bIjA khaMDonI sarakhAmaNImAM amerikAmAM pramANamAM svacchatA ghaNI vadhAre che. moTAM zahero to kharAM, paNa nAnA gAmaDAMo paNa eTalA ja svaccha. yuropamAM sviTjharalaeNnDa sahuthI vadhu svaccha deza gaNAya che. iTalI, grIsa, turkastAna vagere dezomAM svacchatA thoDI ochI jovA maLaze. amerikAmAM sAnaphrAnsisako ane lesa enjalasa karatAM nyUyaeNrkamAM pacaraMgI prajA vadhu hovAthI tyAM svacchatA ochI che. ezIyAmAM jApAna sahuthI vadhu svaccha deza gaNAya che. eziyAnAM zaheromAM Tokyo karatAM siMgApura have svacchatA mATe vadhu khyAti pAmatuM jAya che. svacchatA mATe duniyAmAM sauthI kaDaka zahera tarIke paNa siMgApuranuM nAma have bolAya che. svacchatA e mANasano naisargika guNa hovo joIe. jyAM samagra prajAnI e khAsiyata hoya che tyAM kAyadAthI svacchatAno Agraha rAkhavAnI bahu jarUra rahetI nathI. khAtAM-pItAM, haratAM-pharatAM, kharIdI karatAM kacaro na thAya evuM nathI, paraMtu jyAM jyAM kacaro thavAno saMbhava hoya tyAM tyAM nizcita jagyAe ja kacaro nAkhavA mATenI tAtkAlika vyavasthA hoya ane tenuM Ayojana pahelethI karavAmAM AvyuM hoya evuM keTalAka dezomAM jaNAya che. jyAM vasati vadhAre hoya che tyAM gaMdakI vadhAre hoya che e mAnyatA haMmezAM sAcI nathI. jApAna gIca vasativALo deza hovA chatAM svacchatAmAM te mokhare che. je prajA garIba hoya te prajA gaMdI hoya che e mAnyatA paNa bahu sAcI nathI. je prajA garama pradezomAM rahe che te prajA bahu gaMdI hoya che e mAnyatA paNa baha sAcI nathI. bhAratamAM yuropa, amerikA ke jApAnanI sarakhAmaNImAM svacchatA ghaNI ochI che e tarata najare dekhAya evI vAta che. gAMdhIjIe svacchatA upara ghaNo bhAra mUkyo ane rASTranAM racanAtmaka kAryomAM ane mahattvanuM sthAna ApyuM. paraMtu gAMdhIjInA gayA pachI bhArata asvacchatA tarapha pharI gati karavA lAgyuM che.

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siMgApuranI svacchatA 217 hadabhAI ane huM ilijhAbetha para vaoNka cAlatA hatA. tyAM rastAmAM eka sthaLe jAtajAtanAM phaLa vecAtAM hatAM. buduku nAmanuM eka phaLa maleziyAmAM vizeSa thAya che. phaLa mIThuM, paNa emAM khAvAnuM ochuM, kAraNa ke eno ThaLiyo moTo hoya che. hunedabhAIe mane cakhADavA mATo thoDAMka buduka lIdhAM. e phaLa mAre mATe to navuM hatuM. thoDuMka bhAvyuM. eka phaLa khAIne meM eno ThaLiyo dariyAmAM nAkhyo. hunedabhAIe tarata kahyuM, "tame ThaLiyo tyAM kema nAkhyo ?" "kema, tame ja kahyuM ne ke svacchatA mATe tamArI sarakAra bahu kaDaka che. eTale rastAmAM game tyAM ThaLiyo na nAkhatAM meM dariyAmAM nAkhyo." nA, dariyAmAM paNa tamArAthI nAkhI zakAya nahi. dariyAnuM pANI bagADavAno tamane hakka nathI. jema rastAnI svacchatA mATe, tema dariyAnI svacchatA mATe paNa amArI sarakAra eTalI ja kaDaka che." "to pachI A ThaLiyA nAkhavA kyAM ?" "hAthamAM rAkhI mUkavAnA. kacarAno Dabbo thoDI vAramAM kyAMka jarUra dekhAze. temAM e nAkhI devAnA." jyAM sudhI kacaro nAkhavAnuM sAdhana na maLe tyAM sudhI kacaro pAse rAkhI mUkavAno ane dariyo paNa na bagADAya, e hunedabhAInI vAta sAMbhaLI amerikAno mAro anubhava mane yAda Avyo. mArA mitra DaoN. paMkajabhAI vyAsa ane emanAM patnI haMsAbahena sAthe emanI gADImAM ame nAyagarA jatAM hatAM. rasto lAMbo hato. sAthe khAvAnuM lIdhuM hatuM. haMsAbahene rastAmAM eka saMtaruM mane khAvA mATe ApyuM. saMtaruM thoDuM cholIne enI chAlano nAno TukaDo meM gADImAMthI bahAra dUra mATImAM paDe e rIte pheMkyo. haMsAbahene tarata Takora karI ke amerikAmAM hAI-ve upara paNa kacaro pheMkI zakAto nathI. hAI-venI bAjumAM khADA ane mATI hoya, mAIlo sudhI rasto nirjana hoya topaNa tevI jagyAe tame kacaro pheMkI zako nahi. rastA upara polIsanI moTara pharatI ja hoya che ane kacaro pheMkanArano tyAM ne tyAM ja so DaoNlarano daMDa vasUla karavAmAM Ave che. haMsAbahene kahyuM, "gADImAM ame jyAre bahAra pharavA nIkaLIe tyAre kacarA mATenI kAgaLanI ke plAsTikanI kothaLI sAthe lIdhI ja hoya. emAM kacaro bharatAM jaIe ane rastAmAM jyAM kacarAno Dabbo Ave tyAM te nAkhI daIe." siMgApuranI sarakAra svacchatA mATe ghaNI kaDaka che tenuM samarthana bIje divase paNa thayuM, "sAiTa sIiMga mATenI basamAM huM zahera javA nIkaLyo tyAre amArA gAIDe badhAnuM svAgata karyuM ane sauthI pahelI sUcanA ApatAM kahyuM, "rastAmAM game tyAM kacaro nAkhazo nahi. gaI kAle TAigara bAma gArDanamAM sigAreTa

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218 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe pIne rastAmAM pheMkavA mATe eka amerikanane pacAsa DaoNlara daMDa thayo hato." cha varSa pachI mAre pharI siMgApura javAnuM thayuM. zaheranAM suMdara sthaLo jovA mATenI TUramAM mArA mitro sAthe huM paNa joDAyo. basamAM amArA gAIDa siMgApuranI svacchatA vize bhArapUrvaka kahyuM ane dAkhalo ApatAM jaNAvyuM "gaI kAle TAigara bAma gArDanamAM sigAreTa pIne rastAmAM game tyAM pheMkavA mATe eka amerikanane paMcotera DaoNlara daMDa thayo hato." bIje divase bIjAM keTalAMka sthaLo jovA mATenI ame TU lIdhI. emAM paNa e TUranA gAIDe svAgata karIne svacchatA vize sUcanA ApatAM kahyuM, "gaI kAle TAigara bAma gArDanamAM eka amerikanane rastAmAM sigareTa pheMkavA mATe paMcotera DaoNlara daMDa thayo hato." gAIDanI A vAta pharIthI sAMbhaLIne mane navAI lAgI. eka sthaLe nIce UtaryA tyAre meM gAiDane khAnagImAM pUchyuM, "gaI kAle koI amerikanane kharekhara daMDa thayo che ? be divasa pahelAM paNa meM A vAta sAMbhaLI hatI ane cha varSa pahelAM paNa A ja vAta sAMbhaLI hatI." amAro gAiDa hasyo. kahe, "gaI kAlanI to khabara nathI. amane to amArI kaMpanIe je kahyuM che te ame bolIe chIe. paNa svacchatA mATe amArI sarakAra bahu kaDaka che, e vAta sAcI che." vAta sAcI hatI. bahAranA ajANyA mANaso dvArA svacchatAno bhaMga jaladI thAya e svAbhAvika che. eTalA mATe pravAsIone bhArapUrvaka kahevAnuM sarakAra taraphathI TUrisTa kaMpanIone jaNAvyuM hatuM. paraMtu gAIDo to kaMpanIe gokhAveluM ja bole ne ! eTale roja TAigara bAma gArDanamAM amerikanane thayelI sajAno kaMpanIe Apelo kAlpanika dAkhalo gAiDo dvArA rajU thato, kAraNa ke basamAM pravAsIo to roja navA navA ja AvatA hatA. gIca vasativALA gaMdA vistAro nAbUda karatAM jaIne tyAM madhyama varganA ke garIba loko mATe sArAM Adhunika raheThANo bAMdhavAnA ane zaheranI svacchatA jALavavAnA kAryamAM siMgApure chellAM ATha-dasa varSamAM je siddhi meLavI che te bahu prazasya ane udAharaNarUpa che. samagra eziyAmAM A bAbatamAM te have prathama naMbare AvyuM che. siMgApura eTale eka ja zahera jeTaluM nAnuM rAjaya. AvA nAnA rAjyane vahIvaTI dRSTie keTalIka suvidhA hoya che ane yojanAo tarata amalI bane che.. koI paNa zaherane prAmANika ane kAryadakSa sattAdhIzo maLe to keTalI jhaDapathI zaheranI kAyApalaTa karI zakAya tenuM sacoTa udAharaNa siMgApuranuM che.

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| vI.AI.pI. rUma ArjenTinAnA pATanagara bonojha AirisathI peranA pATanagara limA jatAM meM ane mArI patnIe amArI pAse raheluM videzI calaNa gaNI joyuM. bhArata sarakAre rojanA hisAbe kula divasonI gaNatarI karIne ApeluM calaNa dhAryA karatAM vadhu vaparAI gayuM hatuM. bonojha AirisamAM eNrarporTa javA mATe basane badale amAre TeksI karavI paDI temAM ghaNuM calaNa vaparAyuM e to kharuM, paNa bIjA eka prasaMge paNa tyAM aNadhAryuM kharca thaI gayuM hatuM. amArA eka leTina amerikana mitre eka prakArano paricaya amane karAvyo. emane bhArata vize keTaluMka jANavuM hatuM, eTale potAne ghare bapore jamavA mATe nimaMtraNa ApyuM. teo hoTela upara amane potAnI kAramAM teDavA AvyA. dUra parAmAM emane ghare ame gayAM. temanI sAthe janmyAM. bhArata vize nirAMte ghaNI vAto thaI. evAmAM emane acAnaka koIka moTA mANasa maLavA AvyA, paraMtu amAre pAchA pharavAno samaya thaI gayo hato. eTale teo mahemAnane besADI amane mUkavA mATe amArI sAthe nIce UtaryA, paraMtu amane hoTela upara mUkavA AvavAnI bAbatamAM teo dvidhAmAM paDI gayelA jaNAyA. emanI muzakelI ame samajI gayAM. hoTela upara mUkavA AvavA mATe ame emane nA pADI, eTale potAnI gADI cAlu karavAne badale rastA para jatI eka TeksI emaNe UbhI rakhAvI. amane emAM besADI TaeNksIvALAne emaNe potAnI speniza bhASAmAM amArI hoTelanuM nAma ane saranAmuM kahyuM. ame emanI vidAya lIdhI. hoTela upara pahoMcyAM. nahi dhAreluM TeksIkharca acAnaka AvI paDyuM. videzamAM keTalIka vAra kharcanI bAbatamAM ApaNI gaNatarI khoTI paDe che. limAmAM amAre have thoDI karakasara karavAno vakhata Avyo. hoTelanA ane khAvApIvAnA kharcamAM zakya teTalI karakasara karavI ema ame nakkI karyuM. limAmAM eNraperTamAM hoTela mATenA kAunTara para tapAsa karI ane hoTela bolivAra'mAM UtaravAnuM nakkI karyuM. limAnA madhya bhAgamAM eka vizALa coka pAse A hoTela AvelI che.

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220 - pAsaporTanI pAMkhe hoTelamAM sAmAna sAthe ame dAkhala thayAM. kAunTara upara jaI risepzanisTane kahyuM. "eraporTa upara ame hoTela mATe tapAsa karI to tamArI hoTela mATe bhalAmaNa karavAmAM AvI, eTale ame basamAM besI ahIM AvyAM. chIe." "AbhAra tamAro." risepzanisTe kahyuM. pachI pUchyuM, "tame kyAMthI Avo cho ? inDiyAthI AvatAM lAgo cho." "hA jI." "mane tamArA deza pratye bahu mAna che. A bAju inDiyAthI koI koI vakhata pravAsIo AvI caDe che. tame kaMI kAma mATe AvyAM cho ke pharavA mATe ?" "ame pharavA mATe AvyAM chIe. kusako pAse macca-picchamAM InkA saMskRtinA avazeSo jovAnI amArI khAsa icchA che." bhale, bahu AnaMdanI vAta che !" "tamArI hoTelanA dara zuM che ?" Dabala beDanA sATha amerikana DaoNlara." "e to amAre mATe ghaNA vadhAre kahevAya. vaLI amane eNrapaoNrTa upara kahevAmAM AvyuM hatuM ke likAmAM hoTelomAM DiskAunTa apAya che. je mAge tene Ape che." ", barAbara ema nathI. A amArA nizcita dara che. paraMtu eka sAthe vadhAre pravAsIonuM rijharvezana hoya eTale ke supa-bukiMga hoya to ame DiskAunTa jarUra ApIe chIe. te sivAya ApatA nathI." "mApha karajo, paNa bhAratathI bahu maryAdita pramANamAM videzI calaNa amane maLatuM hoya che. eTale amAre karakasara karavA DiskAunTanuM tamane pUchavuM paDyuM che. duniyAnAM ghaNAM zaheromAM ane khAsa karIne siMgApura, hoMgakoMga vagere moTAM zaheromAM pravAsI mAgatAM bhUle eTaluM badhuM, ghaNI vAra to pacAsa TakA jeTaluM DiskAunTa apAya che." "hA, tamArI vAta sAcI che. tyAM hoTelo vacce spardhA ghaNI che. leTina amerikAmAM paNa keTalIka hoTelomAM DiskAunTa apAya che. ame paNa grupa-bukiMga mATe trIsa TakA ApIe chIe, paraMtu koI eka-be pravAsI hoya to tene ApatA nathI."

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vI.AI.pI. rUma 221 ame risepzanisTane amArI muzkelI samajAvI ane kahyuM, "tame tamArI sattA vAparIne amane DiskAunTa na ApI zako ? hoTelomAM DiskAunTa ApavAnI jAtajAtanI paddhatio hoya che, ane risepzanisTa ke menejarane tenI badhI sattAM hoya che." amArI sthiti samajIne amArI vinaMtI risepzanisTe mAnya rAkhI. eNe kahyuM, "bhale, huM tamane pacAsa TakA DiskAunTa ApuM chuM." e jANI amane bahu AnaMda thayo. eNe amArI pAse hoTelanuM pherma bharAvyuM. nAma-saranAmuM, pAsaporTa naMbara vagere vigato ame lakhI. phorma letAM risepzanisTa pUchayuM, "tamArA dezanI eralAinsa te era InDiyA ne ?" ame kahyuM, "hA; kema pUchavuM paDyuM ?" risepzanisTe kahyuM, "A phormamAM nIce tame lakho : eNra inDiyAnA sTApha membarsa." "kema ?" "ame pacAsa TakA DiskAunTa koI paNa eralAinsanA sTAphane ApIe chIe." "paNa ame era inDiyAnA sTAphamAM nathI." teno kazo vAMdho nahi. DiskAunTa ApavA mATe amAre ATaluM lakhAvI levuM joIe." "paNa evuM khoTuM amArAthI kema lakhAya ?" tenI ciMtA karazo nahi. A phaoNrma koInI pAse javAnuM nathI, ke ame koIne e vize pUchaparacha paNa karavAnA nathI." "tamArI vAta sAcI che. paraMtu amArAthI evuM khoTuM kevI rIte lakhAya?" "tamane tamAre hAthe lakhavAmAM vAMdho hoya to na lakhazo. huM pachIthI mArA hAthe emAM lakhI nAkhIza. amArA oNDiTa mATe eTaluM lakheluM hovuM jarUrI che." nA, tame paNa evuM na lakhazo. tamArA sadbhAva badala AbhAra. paraMtu evuM khoTuM lakhIne paisA bacAvavAnuM amane yogya lAgatuM nathI. ame emAM mAnatA nathI. sahaja rIte tamArI sattA vAparIne DiskAunTa ApI zakatA ho to te amane maMjUra che."

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222 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe "tevI rIte to, mApha karajo, tamane bilakula DiskAunTa ApI zakAtuM nathI. tamAre pUro cArja ApavAno rahe che. jo amAro dara tamane na paravaDato hoya to huM kharekhara lAcAra chuM. tame kaho to bIjI sastI hoTelamAM tamAre mATe huM jarUra vyavasthA karAvI ApuM." ame vimAsaNa anubhavI. thoDI vAra vicAra karIne ame kahyuM, "tame amArA mATe ATalo badho sabhAva batAvyo e pachI thoDA DaoNlaranI karakasara mATe bIjI hoTelamAM javuM e amane ThIka nathI lAgatuM. bhale tamArA dara pramANe amane rUma Apo." rUmanI cAvI ApatAM risepzanisTa amArI sAme joI rahyo. limAmAM be divasa rahyA pachI vadhArAno sAmAna hoTela bolivAramAM jamA karAvI, limAthI vimAnamAM ame kusko gayAM. tyAMthI bIje divase maTu-piccha gayAM. InkA saMskRtinA avazeSo joIne trIje divase ame limA pAchA pharyA. te divase sAMje amAre mAyAmInI phalAiTa pakaDavA mATe eNraporTa javAnuM hatuM. amArI pAse pAMceka kalAka hatA. paraMtu zaheramAM pagAravadhArA mATe zikSakoe kADhelA saraghasane kAraNe tophAna phATI nIkaLyuM hatuM. bahAra pharavA javAmAM jokhama hatuM. amAre hoTelamAM purAI rahevuM paDyuM. hoTelanA daravAjAne tALAM mArI devAmAM AvyAM jethI bahArathI ajANyA mANaso aMdara ghUsI na Ave. pAMceka kalAka hoTelanA laoNnjamAM pasAra karavAnuM bahu anukULa nahotuM. to vaLI rUma levAmAM vinAkAraNa kharca thAya tema hatuM. eka sthaLethI bIje sthaLe pravAsa karatAM pahelAM ame sAmAyika ane prArthanA karatAM. rUma vinA te zakya nahotuM. paisA bacAvI sAmAyika ane prArthanA jatAM karavAM te amane yogya na lAgyuM. eTale rUma levAno ame nirNaya karyo. risepzanisTa pAse ame gayAM. temaNe pUchyuM, "tamAre rUma levAnuM anivArya che ? lonjamAM beso to na cAle ? zA mATe thoDAka kalAka mATe ATalA badhA DaoNlara kharcI nAkho cho ? bIjA koI pravAsIne huM Ama na kahuM paNa tamArI pAse videzI calaNa ochuM che e huM jANuM chuM mATe kahuM chuM." ' meM kahyuM, "tamArI vAta sAcI che. Ama to amAre rUmanI kazI ja jarUra nathI. amAro sAmAna paNa bAMdhIne taiyAra rAkhyo che. paraMtu prArthanA ane amArI dhArmika vidhi karavA mATe amAre rUmanI jarUra che. leTina amerikAmAM amAro A chello divasa che. ame mAyAmI ane bIjAM zaheromAM karakasara karIzuM."

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vI.AI.pI. rUma 223 te amArI sAme joI rahyo. kSaNa vAra vicAra karyA pachI, amane UbhAM rAkhIne te aMdaranI oNphisamAM gayo. thoDI vAre pAchA AvI, nokarane bolAvI enA hAthamAM cAvI ApatAM teNe kahyuM, "A mahemAnone vI.AI.pI. rUma kholI Apo.'' "vI.AI.pI. rUmano to vadhAre cArja haze. tame amane koI sAdo rUma na ApI zako ?'' risepzanisTe amane kahyuM, "amArI hoTelamAM khAsa nimaMtraNathI koI rASTranA pradhAno ke videzanA elacIo ke bIjA evA moTA mahemAno AvyA hoya to temane mATe A amAro vI.AI.pI. rUma che. teno koI cArja nathI. sAdA rUmano cArja che. tamane DiskAunTa maLatuM hovA chatAM tame te lIdhuM nahi eTale amArA menejare tamAre mATe vI.AI.pI. rUmanI sagavaDa ApI che.' risepzanisTano sadbhAva joI ame gaLagaLAM banI gayAM. AlIzAna vI.AI.pI. rUmamAM sAmAyika tathA prArthanA karI, risepzanisTa ane menejarano AbhAra mAnI, mAyAmI javA mATe ame nIkaLyAM tyAre risepzanisTa ane menejara amane vaLAvavA mATe hoTelanI bahAra amArI TaeNksI sudhI AvyA.

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49 bhAkharIno svAda sviTjharalaeNnDamAM inTaralAkana nAmano atyaMta ramaNIya pradeza che. emAM zilaoNrnathI jInIvA jatAM, eka vizALa sarovaranA kinAre ame amArI moTara eka sthaLe pArkiMga vistAramAM jamavA mATe UbhI rAkhI. yuropamAM hAIve para AvA vistAromAM ArAmathI besavA mATe bAMkaDAonI, bhojana mATe TebalakhurazInI, pIvA mATe cokhkhA pANInI, TaoNyaleTanI vagere sagavaDa hoya che. amArI sAthe ame porTebala gaeNsa-silinDara ane phUlo rAkhelAM hatAM, eTale tenA upara tarata mArAM patnIe rasoI zarU karI dIdhI. ame kaDaka gaLI bhAkharI ane zAka banAvyAM. rasoI thaI javA AvI eTale ame Tebala upara jamavA beThAM. thoDI vAra pachI tyAM eka bIjI moTara AvI. emAMthI pati-patnI ane be nAnAM bALako UtaryAM. temanI sAthe eka kUtaro paNa hato. thoDeka dUra eka Tebala upa2 teo badhAM goThavAyAM. teo paNa breDa, baTara, cIjha vagere potAnI vAnagIo khAvA lAgyAM. ame khAtAM hatAM tyAre te kuTuMbanAM baMne bALako amArI pAse AvIne UbhAM rahyAM. gujarAtI sADI,. gaeNsanA cUlA upara thatI bhAkharI vagerene kutUhalathI teo joI rahyAM. ame temane bolAvavAno prayatna karyo, paraMtu te bALako aMgrejI jANatAM na hatAM; eTale amArI vAtacIta khAsa AgaLa vadhI nahi. bALako amArI pAse UbhAM hatAM eTalAmAM emano kUtaro paNa amArI pAse AvIne Ubho rahyo. kUtaro kALo hato, paNa bihAmaNo nahoto. te zAMta ane premALa dekhAto hato. chokarAMo cAlyA gayA pachI paNa kUtaro amArI AsapAsa cakkara mArato rahyo, jANe ke kazuMka sUMghavAno prayatna karato na hoya ! amane thayuM ke kUtaro amArI rasoInI vAsathI AsapAsa bhamato lAge che. amArI dIkarI zailajAe kahyuM, "pappA, ApaNe kUtarAne bhAkharI khavaDAvIe ?"

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bhAkharIno svAda 225 meM kahyuM, "khavaDAvavAnuM mana thAya evo sarasa kUtaro che. enI hilacAla parathI ane Atura AMkhonA bhAva parathI lAge che ke te ApaNI pAse kazuMka khAvA Avyo che. paraMtu ApaNAthI ema ahIM yuropamAM koInA kUtarAne khavaDAvAya nahi. yuropamAM mANaso AvI bAbatamAM bahu cIkaNA hoya che. ApaNI vAnagI kUtarAne kadAca mAphaka na Ave. ethI kUtaro rakhe ne mAMdo paNa paDI jAya. yuropa-amerikAmAM mANaso AvI bAbatamAM tarata nukasAnIno dAvo mAMDatA hoya che. vaLI A loko hAtha dvArA jaMtuo lAgI na jAya te mATe bahu sajAga hoya che. eTale ApaNA hAthanI banAvelI vAnagI A loko na khAya ane potAnA kUtarAne paNa na khAvA de." eTalI vAramAM mAlike potAnA kUtarAne bUma mArIne bolAvI lIdho. kUtaro gayo, paraMtu tarata ja pAcho AvIne amArI pAse Ubho rahyo. amArI dIkarIe kahyuM, "pappA, ApaNe e lokonI rajA laIne kUtarAne khavaDAvIe to kema ?" pUchI joIe, jo teo iMgliza bolatAM hoya to." daramiyAna kUtarAne bolAvavA mATe te daMpatIe be-traNa vAra bUma pADI, paNa kUtaro amArI pAsethI khasyo nahi. eTale pati-patnI baMne amArI pAse AvIne UbhA rahyAM. temanI pAchaLa temanAM bALako paNa doDI AvyAM. pati-patnI kAmacalAu aMgrejI jANe che ane osTreliyAnA vatanI che e temanI vAta parathI jANyuM. meM temane kahyuM, "ame bhAratathI AvIe chIe. ame amArI bhAratIya vAnagI hAthe banAvIne khAdhI." pachI bhAkharI batAvIne meM kahyuM, "A amArAM inDiyana biskiTa che. tamane vAMdho na hoya to ame tamArA kUtarAne khavaDAvIe. tame paNa TesTa karI zako cho." temanA hAvabhAva parathI lAgyuM ke teo dvidhAmAM che. kadAca amArI vAta pUrI na paNa samajyAM hoya. eTalAmAM amArI dIkarIe eka bhAkharI kUtarAnA moDhA pAse nIce ghAsamAM nAkhI. kUtarAe te bhAkharI jhaDapathI moDhAmAM pakaDI lIdhI. tyAM to pelAM baMne bALakoe te bhAkharI kUtarAnA moDhAmAMthI kheMcI lIdhI ane khAvA lAgyAM. potAne koI navI sarasa vAnagI khAvA maLI hoya tevo bhAva bALakoe caherA para pragaTa karyo. potAnI mammIne TukaDo Apyo. mammIe bhAkharI cAkhI ane tene paNa bhAvI. daramiyAna amArI dIkarIe bIjI bhAkharI kUtarAne nAMkhI, paraMtu pA-15

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2 26 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe kUtarAnA moDhAmAMthI te paNa kheMcAI gaI.' patnIe te AMcakI lIdhI ane pote khAvA lAgI. eNe kahyuM, "mArI jiMdagImAM AvAM sarasa biskiTa kyAreya meM khAdhAM nathI." eNe potAnAmAMthI eka TukaDo potAnA patine khAvA Apyo. patine paNa bhAkharI bahu bhAvI e emanA caherAnI badalAyelI rekhAo parathI jaNAyuM. daramiyAna trIjI ane chellI bhAkharI paNa kUtarAne pheMkAI gaI. paraMtu kUtaro pahoMce te pahelAM pelAM baMne bALakoe jhaDapathI te laI lIdhI ane jhaTa jhaTa khAvA lAgyAM. patie temanI pAsethI eka TukaDo mAgIne khAdho. - pati-patnIe bhAkharI khUba vakhANI. bALakone to haju paNa vadhAre joItI hatI. to bicAro amArI sAme tAkI rahyo hato, paraMtu amArI pAse bhAkharI khalAsa thaI gaI hatI. navI bhAkharI banAvI ApavA mATe ame temane kahyuM, paraMtu teTalo samaya teo rokAI zake tema na hatAM. - kUtarAne khAtara paNa navI bhAkharI banAvavAnI amArI icchA hatI, paraMtu ame lAcAra hatAM. ekabIjAnA phoTA pADIne ame sahu chUTAM paDyAM. koI paNa prajA mATenA ApaNA manamAM keTalAka baMdhAI gayelA khyAlo tyAMnA sAmAnya mANaso kevI rIte khoTA pADe che teno amane A eka lAkSaNika anubhava thayo.

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2 anokhI bheTa iMglenDa ane phrAnsa vacce mAtra bAvIsa mAIlanI dariyAnI khADI che. paraMtu khADInA sAmasAmA baMne kinArAnI prajAnI bhASA judI che ane tAsIra paNa judI che. iMglenDa ane phrAnsa vacce bhUtakALamAM ghaNAM yuddho khelAyAM che. ekabIjA sAthenI duzmanAvaTa yuddha samaye to ghaNI vadhI jAya. paraMtu zAMtinA samayamAM paNa e baMne prajAne ekabIjA pratye sthaLa ke sUkSma aprIti rahyA kare che. temAM paNa yuropamAM ane yuropa bahAranA dezomAM ekabIjA upara sarasAI meLavavAnI bhUtakALanI spardhAmAM phrAnsa karatAM iMglenDa keTalAMka sthaLe vadhu phAvyuM hovAthI jUnA vakhatamAM phrAnsanA lokone iMglenDanuM nAma paDatAM sUga caDhatI. "bhASA to amArI ja mUdu ane madhura; kavitA ke nATaka amArAM ja UMcI kakSAnAM citrakaLA ane zilpasthApatyamAM iMglenDanA loko zuM samaje ? e mATenI dRSTi to amArI ja pAse" - Ama phrAnsanA lokomAM eka prakAranI gauravagraMthi paNa paDelI che. pravAsI tarIke iMglenDamAMthI ApaNe phrAnsamAM dAkhala thaIe ane phrAnsanA loko sAthe aMgrejImAM bolIe to e temane game nahIM. koI koI ThekANe to tochaDAIthI teo moM macakoDe ane ApaNI sAthe aMgrejImAM bolavAno spaSTa InakAra karI de. koIka vakhata aMgrejI AvaDatuM hoya topaNa potAne aMgrejI nathI AvaDatuM evo DoLa kare. AkhA yuropanA bIjA badhA loko vyavahAranI samAna itara bhASA tarIke phrenca ke jarmana bhASA jANatA hoya che. eTale teone bahu vAMdho Avato nathI. paraMtu jeo mAtra iMgliza ja jANatA hoya temane koI koI vakhata phrAnsamAM vicitra anubhavo thAya che. alabatta, videzIonI sAthe sArI rIte aMgrejImAM bolanAra premALa phrenca lokono anubhava nathI thato evuM nathI. iMglenDanA niArethI hovarakrAphTamAM ame moTarakAra sAthe besI phrAnsanA kinAre UtaryA. tyAMthI amAro yuropano pravAsa zarU thato hato. phrAnsamAM hAIve (phrAnsanA loko ene torUta - Autoroute kahe che.) upara eka

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228 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe sthaLe pArkiMga vistAramAM amArI gADI pArka karIne ame khAvA mATe rokAyAM. ame eka Tebala upara goThavAyAM. amArA pravAsano A pahelo divasa hato. laMDanathI savAre tAjAM garamAgarama lIdhelAM jalebI-gAMThiyA paNa amArI sAthe hatAM. cA-kaoNphI sAthe ame te khAvAnuM zarU karyuM. amArI AsapAsanAM Tebalo upara bIjAM ghaNAM mANaso hatAM. bhAratIya tarIke e badhAMmAM ame amArAM paheraveza, raMga ane mukhAkRtine kAraNe judAM tarI AvatAM hatAM. AthI bIjAonuM amArA pratye dhyAna kheMcAya e svAbhAvika hatuM. amArI bAjunA Tebala upara eka daMpatI beThuM hatuM. sAthe emanI daseka varSanI dIkarI paNa hatI. ame koIka judI ja vAnagIo khAI rahyAM hatAM enI ene navAI lAgatI hatI. e thoDI thoDI vAre amArI vAnagIo sAme Tagara Tagara jotI hatI ane enAM mAtApitAne kaMIka kahetI hatI. emanI bhASA parathI lAgyuM ke teo phrenca loko che. temano paheraveza vagere jotAM jaNAyuM ke teo ThIka zrImaMta hovAM joIe. amArI ekabIjAnI naja2 maLI eTale meM smita karyuM. pachI meM tarata gujarAtImAM emane kahyuM, "garamAgarama jalebI-gAMThiyA che. thoDAM lezo tame ?' ema kahI meM eka pleTa temanI sAme dharI. mArI bhASA teo samajI zake tema nahotAM, paNa huM zuM kahevA mAguM chuM te teo samajI gayAM hatAM. mArAM patnIe Takora karatAM mane kahyuM, "tame emanI sAthe gujarAtImAM kema bolo cho ? teo thoDAM ApaNI bhASA samajI zakavAnAM che ?' "hA, e sAcuM, paNa mAre to gujarAtImAM ja vAta karavI che. laMDananA keTalAka gujarAtI mitronA anubhava parathI joyuM che ke khAsa karIne phrAnsanA loko sAthe gujarAtImAM zarUAta karavAthI temane mAThuM lAgatuM nathI ane pachI teo ja ApaNI sAthe aMgrejImAM vAta karavA lAge che.' meM e sajjanane pharIthI gujarAtImAM kahyuM, "ame muMbaIthI AvIe chIe A jalebI-gAMThiyA amArI gujarAtIonI priya vAnagI che." huM jANato hato ke mArI gujarAtI bhASA emane samajAvAnI nathI. teo kazuM samajyAM nahIM, eTale mane pharI bolavA kahyuM. pharIthI meM gujarAtImAM ja bolavAnuM cAlu rAkhyuM. eTale e sajjanane ja pUchyuM, "eksakyUjha mI, DU yU spIka iMgliza ?" "a liTala." "oha ! nAisa !''

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anokhI bheTa 2 29 pachI aMgrejImAM amAro vyavahAra cAlu thayo. emane ane emanI dIkarIne ame jalebI-gAMThiyA khavaDAvyAM. temane khUba bhAvyAM. te kevI rIte banAvAya te mArAM patnIe temane samajAvyuM. ame temane pUchayuM, "A vAnagIo pahelAM tame koI divasa khAdhI che ?" temaNe kahyuM, "amArI jiMdagImAM kyAreya AvI vAnagI ame joI nathI." dhIme dhIme teo amArA TebalanI AsapAsa goThavAI gayAM. yuropIya ane bhAratIya jIvana vize ghaNI vAto nIkaLI. e sajjane kahyuM, "tame badhAM sAruM iMgliza bolo cho." hA, amane zALAmAM itara bhASA tarIke iMgliza zIkhavAnI taka maLe che. paraMtu ame iMglizamAM bolIe te kadAca tamane game ke na game, eTalA mATe meM mArI mAtRbhASAmAM tamArI sAthe vAtacItanI zarUAta karI. paraMtu e mATe kSamA karazo." hA, phrAnsamAM koI koI lokone iMgliza bhASAnI sUga hoya che. paraMtu amane evI nathI. mAre to vAraMvAra yuropamAM ane iMglenDamAM pharavAnuM thAya eTale iMgliza to amAre bolavI ja paDe." paraspara bIjI thoDIka vAto thaI. tyAM e sajjane kahyuM, "tame amane jiMdagImAM kyAreya na cAkhI hoya evI vAnagI khavaDAvI che. have huM paNa tamane eka evI sarasa vastu cakhADavA icchuM chuM ke tamane paNa tamArI jiMdagImAM kAyama yAda rahI jAya." pachI emaNe kahyuM, "thobho, huM mArI gADImAMthI e laI AvuM chuM." ema kahIne jyAM gADIo pArka karI hatI te vistAra tarapha te sajjana gayA. thoDI vAre teo pAchA AvyA. temanA hAthamAM eka moTo bATalo hato. emaNe kahyuM, "A eka uttama prakArano zepeina dArU che. e tamAre mATe huM lAvyo chuM. tame tamArI jiMdagImAM kadAca A brAnDano zepeIna cAkhyo nahi hoya. tamane kAyama yAda rahI jAya evI A cIja che." ema kahIne emaNe e bATalAnA lebala upara lakhelI vigato tarapha amAruM dhyAna doryuM. paraMtu amane na rasa hato e vigatomAM ke na rasa hato zempaInamAM. to vaLI temanA premabhAvano anAdara karavAnuM paNa yogya na hatuM. eTale emaNe Apelo bATalo svIkArI temano khUba khUba AbhAra mAnI pachI meM haLavethI kahyuM, "tamArI bheTa amane pahoMcI gaI che. amane A bheTa ane

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230. pAsaporTanI pAMkhe tamAro sabhAva kAyama yAda raheze; paraMtu amArI eka vinaMtI svIkAro. ame koI dArU pItAM nathI. ame jiMdagImAM kyAreya dArU cAkhyo nathI, eTale A bATalAno amAre kazo ja upayoga nathI. tamArA bIjA koI mitrane tame e ApI zakazo." ame dArU pItAM nathI ema jANIne temane bahu Azcarya thayuM. ame bheTa na svIkArI tethI temane thoDo kSobha thayo. amane paNa thoDo kSobha thayo. paraMtu amAro bhAva teo barAbara samajI zakyAM tethI amane gamyuM. thoDI vAra pachI teo badhAM amArI vidAya laI pArkiMga vistAra tarapha cAlyAM. amArI bIjI bAjunA eka Tebala para beThelA eka yuropiyana sajjana A badhuM dazya joI rahyA hatA. emaNe kahyuM, "tamAre zempaInano e bATalo laI levo joIto hato. tame bIjA koIne ApI zakyA hota. A to bahu kImatI dArU che. bajAramAM jaladI e maLato nathI. tame mane e vecAto Apyo hota to huM paNa e laI levA taiyAra hato." meM kahyuM, "ame dArU pItAM nathI ane bIjAne pivaDAvatAM paNa nathI. ame jANIe chIe ke amArI A vAta badhA lokone samajAya evI nathI. e mATe loko amane aNasamaju gaNe teno paNa amane vAMdho nathI. paraMtu - ame temAM zraddhApUrvaka mAnIe chIe." emaNe kahyuM, "tame sAcA hazo. mane tamArA jevA lokonI navAI lAge che. paraMtu eTalI ja navAI Avo moMgho zempaIna dArU pelA mANase tamane bheTa ApavAnuM vicAryuM tenI paNa lAge che." hA, mane paNa enI navAI lAge che. mANasa AvA moMghA dArUno akabaMdha moTo bATalo potAnI sAthe gADImAM pherave ane jarAka paricaya bIjAne bheTa ApavAno vicAra kare e jevItevI vAta nathI." meM kahyuM. amArI vAta cAlatI hatI eTalAmAM pArkiMga vistAramAMthI nIkaLelI eka gADI amArI pAsethI pasAra thaI. emAM te phrenca daMpatI ane temanI dIkarI beThelAM hatAM. amArI sAme joI bUma pADIne emaNe "bAya ! bAya !" kahyuM. saphera raMganI e gADI upara amArI najara paDI. enI traNeya bAju moTA akSare "zepeina" lakheluM hatuM. tarata ame anumAna karyuM ke e sajjana zempaIna kaMpanInA DirekTara ke koI moTA ophisara, ejanTa ke selsamena hovA joIe. ATalo moMdho dArU bheTa ApavAnuM rahasya have amane samajAyuM.

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limAnA eraporTamAM huM ane mArAM patnI dakSiNa amerikAnA perunA pATanagara limAthI uttara amerikAmAM mAyAmI jaI rahyAM hatAM. - dakSiNa amerikAmAM pera, ArjenTinA, cile (cilI), kolaMbiyA, venejhuelA, ikveDora vagere ghaNA dezomAM Apakhuda lazkarI zAsana che. amerikAmAM eka mitre salAha ApelI ke dakSiNa amerikAnA pravAsamAM saramukhatyArazAhIvALA dezomAM saMbhALa rAkhavI, kAraNa ke tyAMnI lazkarI sarakAra vicitra hoya che; nyAya jevuM kaMI nahi; game tyAre game te mANasane najIvI vAtamAM jelamAM besADI de; enI koI rAva ke phariyAda thAya nahi. vaLI tyAM badhe speniza bhASA bolAya che ane ApaNane speniza AvaDe nahi. eTale ApaNe ApaNI vAta barAbara samajAvI paNa na zakIe. ApaNA jevA videzI pravAsIoe eTalA mATe A dezamAM sAvacetI rAkhavI jarUrI che. ArjenTinAmAM ane perumAM ame joyuM ke eNraporTa upara karmacArIo tarIke paNa gaNaveza paherelA kaDaka mijAjanA lazkarI oNphisaro hatA. sthAnika prajA temanAthI gabharAIne cAlatI. limAthI amArI phalAiTa rAtanA agiyAra vAge hatI, paraMtu zaheramAMthI rAtanA nIkaLavAne badale salAmatI khAtara ane sAMje sAta vAge eNrapaoNrTa upara jaIne besI gayAM hatAM. amArI phalAiTa traNeka kalAka moDI che evuM amane eraporTa upara pahoMcIne tapAsa karatAM jANavA maLyuM. eTale amAre eraporTanA laoNnjamAM ThIka ThIka samaya besI rahevuM paDyuM. rAtanI phalAiTamAM pravAsa karanArA musApharonI saMkhyA pramANamAM ochI hatI. ciliyana eralAInsanI amArI TikiTa hatI. kAunTara upara sAmAna ApI ame laoNnjamAM beThAM. phalAITanI jAherAta thaI eTale ame kasTamsamAM dAkhala thayAM. lazkarI gaNavezamAM eka oNphisara amArA pAsaporTa tapAsato hato. mArI AgaLa pAMceka puruSo hatA. oNphisara darekane eka phaoNrma Apato

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232 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe jato ane temAM pAsaporTa naMbara lakhavA tathA sahI karavA jaNAvato. phaoNrma laI te pAsapaoNrTamAM sikko mArI Apato ane AgaLa javA deto. ghaNA dezomAM bahArathI AvatA ke pAchA jatA videzI pravAsIo pAse imigrezananI noMdha barAbara rahe te mATe AvAM phorma bharAvavAmAM AvatAM hoya che. mAro vAro Avyo. speniza bhASAmAM chApeluM eka phaoNrma mane ApI mAre kyAM pAsaporTano naMbara lakhavo ane kyAM sahI karavI te nizAnI karIne oNphisare mane batAvyuM. meM te pramANe karyuM. pAsaporTa upara sikko paDyo ane huM AgaLa cAlyo. mArI pAchaLa mArAM patnI AvatAM hatAM. oNphisare enI pAse phaoNrma bharAvyA vinA pAsaporTamAM sikko mArI Apyo. meM oNphisarane phaoNrma bharavA aMge IMglizamAM pUchyuM, to teNe kahyuM ke tenI jarUra nathI. koI koI dezamAM kasTamsanI keTalIka vidhi mATe pati-patnI ane nAnAM saMtAno vacce eka ja phaoNrma bharAtuM hoya che. ahIM paNa evuM haze ema meM mAnyuM. kasTamsanAM eka pachI eka nAkAM vaTAvatAM ame AgaLa cAlyAM. musApharI karatAM cAre bAju kasTamsanA lazkarI amaladAronI saMkhyA vadhAre hatI. rAtano vakhata hato. vAtAvaraNa jeTaluM kaDaka ane gaMbhIra hatuM teTaluM ja gamagIna lAgatuM hatuM. koInA caherA upara kyAMya smita dekhAtuM nahotuM. kasTamsamAM ame AgaLa cAlyAM, tyAM eka kAunTara pAse ophisare mAro pAsapaoNrTa joI mane kahyuM, "bAvana DaoNlara Apo." kSamA karajo; zAne mATe tame A DaoNlara mAgo cho ?" meM pUchyuM. oNphisare moTA ane kaDaka avAje kahyuM, "kema, khabara nathI ? tame DyUTI-phrI dArU mATe arajI karI che tenA !" "meM evI koI arajI karI nathI, huM dArU pIto nathI." meM kahyuM. khoTuM na bolo. A rahI tamArI arajI.". mArI sahIvALuM phaoNrma ophisare mane batAvyuM. mAro pAsaporTa naMbara barAbara che te tapAsI temAM sahI karI. huM mUMjhAyo. je phaoNrma upara agAu mArI sahI levAmAM AvI hatI te imigrezananuM phaoNrma na hatuM, DyUTI-phI dArU mATenI speniza bhASAmAM te arajI hatI. vagara vAMcyuM ke samaye meM temAM oNphisaranI sUcanAthI sahI karI dIdhI hatI. meM kahyuM, "mApha karajo, A DyUTI-phrI dArU mATenI arajI haze evI mane khabara nahi." For Private & Personal use only

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limAnA eNrapaoNrTamAM 233 ophisara kazuM bolyo nahi. mArI sAme kaDaka najare tAkI rahyo. mane thayuM ke have vadhAre bolavAno A avasara nathI. jakAta-rAhata vastuo duniyAmAM badhAM ja AMtarASTrIya eNraporTanA kasTamsa vibhAgamAM maLatI hoya che. te levI e koI guno nathI. balake dArU, sigareTa, attaro, kemerA, ghaDiyALa vagere puSkaLa cIjo ghaNA pravAsIo kharIdI letA hoya che, eTale DyUTI-phrI dArU levAmAM bIjo kaMI vAMdho na hato. paraMtu khoTI rIte arajI thaI che e mATe AvA lazkarI zAsananA dezamAM ApaNA mATe kaMI muzkelI UbhI na thAya tenI ciMtA hatI. teTalI sAvacetI rAkhavI jarUrI gaNAya ema samajI meM tarata pAkITamAMthI bAvana DaoNlara kADhIne oNphisarane dharyA, paraMtu oNphisare te levAnI nA pADI. teNe kahyuM, "vimAnamAM jayAre dArUnA bATalA tamane ApavAmAM Ave tyAre tamAre A DaoNlara ApavAnA raheze. dArUnI DilivarI vimAnamAM besatI vakhate thaze, atyAre nahi." ame AgaLa cAlyAM. thoDI vAra pachI AgaLa joyuM to pelA oNphisara koIka pravAsInA bAvana DaoNlara laI rasIda Apato hato. koIkanA paisA te le che ane koIkanA nathI leto, tenuM kAraNa amane samajAyuM nahi. kasTamsanI badhI vidhi patAvIne ame laoNnjamAM beThAM. jAherAta thaI eTale ame vimAnamAM besavA mATe ravAnA thayAM. vimAnanA daravAjA pAse nIce eka TrolImAM karamukta dArUnA bATalA goThavelA hatA. tyAM Ubhelo oNphisara jAherAta karatA jaNAto hato ke jemaNe arajI karI che temane vimAnamAM dArUnI DilivarI ApavAmAM Avaze. paraMtu ame joyuM ke amArI sAthenA je keTalAka musApharoe bAvana DaoNlara bharI dIdhA hatA, teo rasIda batAvI dArUnA bATalA laIne cahyAM; to bIjA keTalAka e bATalA mATe vimAnamAM rAha jotAM beThA hatA. bAvana DaoNlarano cAMdalo coMTavAno che ane dArUnA bATalA sAthe mAyAmI eraporTa upara UtaravAnuM che e vicArathI amane kheda thato hato. ame vimAnamAM jaIne beThAM. ThIka ThIka vAra thaI topaNa bATalA AvyA nahi, ane vimAnano UpaDavAno samaya thavA Avyo. meM eNra hosTesane bolAvIne te vize pUchyuM, eTale mAruM nAma jANI laIne tapAsa karavA te nIce UtarI. huM tenI pAchaLa pAchaLa vimAnanA daravAjA sudhI gayo. mArI pAchaLa bIjA be pravAsIo paNa AvI pahoMcyA. temanI pAse traNa dArU mATe arajI karAvI levAI hatI ema jANyuM.

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pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe ame vimAnanA daravAjAmAM UbhAM hatAM. eNrahaoNsTesa nIce phaoNrma tapAsatI hatI. pachI teNe upara AvIne kahyuM, "mApha karajo, tamane dArU nahi maLe. tame arajI ja karI nathI. tamAre pahelethI arajI karIne paisA bharI devA joIe ne ?" 234 eNrahaoNsTesanA javAbathI huM rAjI thayo. DaoNlara ApyA na hatA eTale to kaMI vAMdho hato ja nahi. Ama paNa mAre dArU joIto ja na hato. paraMtu eka vakhata nakkI karAyuM ke meM arajI karI che ane bIjI vakhate kahevAyuM ke meM arajI karI nathI ! AvuM kema banyuM haze teno vicAra manamAM cAlato hato. dALamAM jarUra kaMIka kALuM che evo vahema paDyo. evAmAM mArI najara nIce gaI to bIjo oNphisara dANarahita dArUnA bATalAmAMthI keTalAka bATalA judA tAravI rahyo hato. te mATe tenI pAse bIjAM keTalAMka phaoNrma hatAM. emAM ja mAruM ane mArA jevA bIjA keTalAka ajANyA musApharonuM phaoNrma haze ema tarata lAgyuM. amArA vatI paisA bharIne bATalAnI DilivarI te pote laI leto hato tevo vahema pAko thayo. eNrahaoNsTese paNa kahyuM, "ahIM limAnA eNrapaoNrTamAM ajANyA musApharo pAse arajI karAvI pachI temane nAme paisA bharIne DyUTI-phrI dArU meLavavAnuM ane pachI bajAramAM moMghA bhAve vecavAno dhaMdho karavAnuM SaDayaMtra cAle che. lazkarI zAsana che. eTale tenI sAme koI phariyAda thaI zakatI nathI. badhA ja oNphisaro aMdara aMdara maLelA che.' bhraSTAcAra ane gerarIti aTakAvavA mATe je amaladAronI nimaNUka thaI che teo ja ahIM aMdaroaMdara maLI jaIne vyApaka pramANamAM bhraSTAcAra ane gerarIti calAvatA hatA ! rakSaka-bhakSakanI rIti to prakArAntare duniyAmAM sarvatra rahelI che. sattArUDha thayA pachI samatolapaNuM jALavavuM sarvane mATe sulabha nathI. }

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bhAratIya vAikiMga moskomAM olimpika ramato jovA gayelA ane bhAratIya pravAsIone mosko yunivarsiTInI hosTelamAM utAro ApavAmAM Avyo hato. bhAratanA judA judA pradezomAMthI ghaNA pravAsIo olimpika jovA mATe AvyA hatA. emAM dhyAna kheMce evuM eka jUtha kerAlAnA pravAsIonuM hatuM. haoNsTelamAM nIce meM iMglizamAM emane pUchyuM, "bhAratamAMthI tame kayA rAjyamAMthI Avo cho ?" javAba maLyo, "no iMgliza, no hindI." temane aMgrejI ke hindImAM vAta karavAnI icchA nathI ke temane aMgrejI ke hindI AvaDatI nathI te huM samajI zakyo nahi. meM majAka karatAM aMgrejImAM pharI pUchyuM, "to pachI tame raziyanamAM vAta karo cho ?" no raziyana, no iMgliza, no hindI; onlI malayAlama." mane malayAlama bhASA AvaDatI na hatI ane temane malayAlama sivAya bIjI koI bhASA AvaDatI na hatI, eTale amArI vAta vadhAre cAlI nahi. moDhuM malakAvIne, namaste karIne huM chUTo paDyo. daramiyAna kerAlAthI AvelA eka vakIlane meM pAMca pravAsIo vize pUchyuM. emaNe kahyuM, "hA, e pAMceya kerAlAnA ja che. kvilona pAsenA gAmaDAnA che. jAte kheDUta che, abhaNa che, sahI karavA sivAya bIjuM kazuM lakhatAM-vAMcatAM AvaDatuM nathI. kAjunI nikAsamAM lAkho rUpiyA kamAI gayA che, eTale temane puSkaLa videzI calaNa sarakAra taraphathI maLe che. iMgliza bhASA temane nathI AvaDatI eTale teo koIka TUrisTa kaMpanInA pravAsI jUthanI sAthe joDAIne duniyAmAM badhe pharatA hoya che. bhASAnI muzkelInA kAraNe teo koInI sAthe bhaLI zakatA nathI, paNa teo pAMceya sAthe hoya che ane mAMhomAMhe malayAlamamAM Akho vakhata vAto karatA hoya che, tethI bIjAnI kaMpanInI temane bahu garaja rahetI nathI. teo dekhAya che sAdA gAmaDiyA jevA, paNa che bahu jabarA ane luccA. koI vAtanI temane zarama paNa nahi. pAse paisA che eTale badhuM ja AvI gayuM ema teo mAne che. videzamAM zaoNpiMga sivAya bIjI koI vAtamAM temane rasa nathI."

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236 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe hosTelamAM navamA mALe amane badhAne utAro ApavAmAM Avyo hato. pahele divase TI.vI. upara vividha raziyana kAryakramo joIne ame rAtre lagabhaga bAreka vAge sUI gayA. savAre cAra vAge amArI rUma upara jorajorathI TakorA paDyA. atyAramAM koNa AvyuM haze e vicAre AMkho coLatAM meM bAraNuM ughADyuM, to eka kheDUta bahAra Ubho hato. zuM kAma hatuM te mane samajAvI zakyo nahi ane tarata cAlyo gayo. huM bAraNuM baMdha karato hato, eTalAmAM bIjA koI rUma upara teNe TakorA mAryA te saMbhaLAyuM. e rUmanA bhAIe bAraNuM ughADyuM, paNa pelA kheDUte javAba na Apyo. ethI te gusse thaI gayA. ghoMghATathI cAra-pAMca rUmanA pravAsIo bahAra AvyA. tapAsa karatAM samaja paDI ke A kheDUtane TaoNyaleTa javuM hatuM ane ToyaleTa ene jaDatuM na hatuM. TaoNyaleTanAM ane rUmonAM badhAM bAraNAM ekasarakhAM hovAthI ane bIjI kaMI sUcanA vAMcatAM na AvaDatuM hovAthI TaoNyaleTa samajIne je bAraNAM upara e TakorA mArato te koIkanI rUma nIkaLatI. kerAlAnA e kheDUtanA parAkramanI ramUjI vAta amArA grupanA badhA sabhyomAM prasarI gaI. moskothI ame kieva (Kiev - soviyeTa yuniyanamAM yukreinanuM mukhya zahera) jatA hatA. amArI sAthe kerAlAnuM grupa ane pelA kheDUto paNa hatA. soviyeTa raziyAmAM sTezana upara pramANamAM svacchatA ghaNI sArI hatI. gADImAM paNa svacchatA jALavavA mATe khAsa sUcanAo apAI hatI. dareka DabbAmAM eka leDI kanDakTara hatI. mAika upara amane sUcanA ApavAmAM AvI hatI ke Trena UpaDatAM pahelAM jemane TaoNyaleTa javuM hoya te pleTaphaoNrma paranA TaoNyaleTamAM jAya, TrenanAM TaoNyaleTa laoNka (Lock) karavAmAM AvyAM che. mosko choDyA pachI daseka miniTe TaoNyaleTa kholavAmAM Avaze. dareka sTezana AvatAM pahelAM pAMceka miniTa pahelAM dareka DabbAmAM badhAM TaoNyaleTane cAvI mArI devAmAM Avaze, jethI sTezana upara TrenamAM koI ToyaleTamAM na jAya. sTezanamAM gaMdakI na thAya te mATenI A vyavasthA che. amArI Trena UpaDI. relave taraphathI amane cA ApavAmAM AvI. ame sAthe lAvelo nAsto cA sAthe khAdho. thoDI vAra pachI amArA kampArTamenTamAMthI huM bahAra nIkaLyo. joyuM to koriDoramAM saMtarAnI ane

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bhAratIya vAikiMga 237 sapharajananI chAlanA TukaDA paDyA hatA. mAkhaNanA paeNkeTanAM kAgaLiyAM paDyAM hatAM. jAmanI khAlI DabbIo paDI hatI. konuM parAkrama hoI zake ? tapAsa karatAM khabara paDI ke pelA bhAratIya kheDUtoe, bhAratIya Teva pramANe khAIkhAIne kacaro potAnA kampArTamenTamAMnI bahAra koriDoramAM nAkhyo hato. kanDakTara yuvatIe AvIne te badho kacaro uThAvI lIdho ane koriDoranA cheDe rAkhavAmAM AvelI kacarA mATenI bAskeTamAM nAkhI dIdho. teNe pelA sajjananone kacaro na nAkhavA mATe iMglizamAM vinaMtI karI, paraMtu teo badhA to bAghAnI jema DokuM dhuNAvatA joI rahyA. iMgliza AvaDe to samajAya ne ? ane samajAvavA chatAM varSonI paDelI AdatamAMthI mukta thavAya to ne ? savAra paDI. eka sTezana AvyuM, paNa TaoNyaleTa to baMdha hatuM. TaoNyaleTa kema baMdha che te mATeno ghoMghATa te kheDUtoe malayAlamamAM karI mUkyo, kAraNa ke teo sUcanA samajI zakyA nahotA. temane braza karI moDhuM dhovuM hatuM. eTale eka loTAmAM pANI laI AvIne bhAratIya relavepravAsanI temanI Teva pramANe eka DabbAnA bAraNAmAM UbhA UbhA braza ane kogaLA teo karavA lAgyA. keTalAka to pleTaphaoNrma para UtarI gaLuM khokhArIne bhAratIya paddhatithI sApha karavA lAgyA. plaeNTaphaoNrma upara ghaNA raziyana musApharo UbhA hatA. temane mATe A dRzya kutUhalabharyuM hatuM. A bhAratIya kheDUtone jovA mATe ghaNA raziyana pravAsIo thoDI thoDI vAre AmathI tema AMTo mAravA lAgyA. vAta AkhA plaeNTaphaoNrma upara prasarI gaI ane hAsyanuM mojuM pharI vaLyuM. bIjuM eka sTezana AvyuM. evAmAM amArI kanDakTara yuvatIe doDIdoDI karI mUkI. teNe kahyuM, "spaSTa sUcanA apAI hovA chatAM tamArAmAMthI koIka TaoNyaleTamAM gayuM che. have sTezana Ave che eTale mAre TaoNyaleTa laoNka karavAno samaya thaI gayo che. meM ghaNuM khakhaDAvyuM paNa e bhAI nIkaLatA nathI." ame badhA te jovA koriDoramAM nIkaLyA. eka kerAlAvAsI bhAI mAraphata pelAne malayAlamamAM sUcanA apAI tyAre keTalIya vA2e teo nIkaLyA. vastutaH vadhAre paDatuM bAraNuM ThokAvAthI teo TaoNyaleTamAM gabharAI gayA hatA ane aparicita sTaoNparavALuM bAraNuM kevI rIte kholavuM te temane jaladI sUjhatuM nahotuM. kievathI mosko pAchA AvI ame badhA naoNrvenA pATanagara oslo F

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238 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe pahoMcyA. e kheDUtonI kaMpanI ahIM paNa amArI sAthe hatI. oslomAM ame "vAikiMga zipa myujhiyama" jovA javAnA hatA. khADIne sAme kinAre e sthaLa hatuM. boTamAM besIne sAme kinAre ame pahoMcyA. tyAMthI ekAda phalaMgano rasto hato. baMne bAju chUTAMchavAyAM zAMta gharo ane suMdara ghaTAdAra vRkSo hatAM. myujhiyama pAse ame pahoMcIe te pahelAM eka gharanA kampAunDamAM sapharajananuM eka moTuM vRkSa dekhAyuM. moTAM moTAM pAkAM sapharajana vRkSa para laTakatAM hatAM. sapharajana jotAM ja eka kheDUta tAnamAM AvI gayo. bhAratIya kheDUta tarIkenI tenI Adata kAbUmAM na rahI. "epala', "epala' ema jorathI bolato te kampAunDanI dIvAla upara kUdako mArIne caDhI gayo. DALa namAvI be-traNa sapharajana toDIne eNe bIjAone ApyAM. eTalAmAM bIjA be kheDUta paNa kUdIne dIvAla upara caDyA ane tyAMthI jhADanI eka moTI DALI upara caDhI gayA. thoDI miniTamAM ghaNAM sapharajana toDI lIdhAM. nIce eka lUgaDuM pahoLuM karIne pAtharyuM ane temAM badhAM bharI lIdhAM. pachI cAlatAM cAlatAM temaNe badhAe sIdhA moDhe mAMDIne sapharajananAM baTakAM khAvA mAMDyA, ane vadhelo kacaro rastAmAM game tyAM nAkhatA gayA. sadbhAgye tyAM koInI avarajavara nahotI ane gharo baMdha hatAM. amArI pAse samaya thoDo hato. ame badhA vAikiMga zipa myujhiyamamAM jhaTa dAkhala thayA, paNa pelA kheDUto aMdara na AvyA. emAM temane rasa nahoto. vAikiMga myujhiyama aitihAsika che. vAikiMga loko hajAra-bAraso varSa pUrvenA skenDineviyA(naoNrve-svIDana-DenamArka)nA jabarA loko hatA. teo luccA, bIjAno mAla maphata paDAvI lenArA, sAhasika, koInI paNa paravA na karanArA, kazI zarama na rAkhanArA, Akramaka svabhAvanA, aDadhA jaMgalI ane aDadhA sudharelA evA loko hatA. emanAM vahANo ane emanI gharavakharInuM pradarzana joIne ame pAchAM pharyA, tyAre pelA kheDUto hajI rastA upara bIjuM eka sapharajananuM jhADa lUMTI rahyA hatA. emane joIne amArAmAMnA eka jaNe majAkamAM kahyuM, "ApaNuM AjanuM bhArata paNa vAikiMga lokothI bAkAta rahyuM nathI." bIjAe kahyuM, "emane vAikiMga tarIke oLakhAvIne ApaNe vAikiMga lokonuM apamAna karIe chIe, kAraNa ke vAikiMga lokomAM to keTalAka sArA guNo paNa hatA."

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239 bhAratIya vAikiMga emanI TIkA sAcI hatI, paNa vAtAvaraNa majAkanuM hatuM. eTale e kheDUtonI Teva, svabhAva ane vartananA kAraNe "iMDiyana vAikiMga' evuM emanuM nAma amArAmAM paDI gayuM. cAlatAM cAlatAM khADIne kinAre ame AvI pahoMcyAM. ame saheja moDAM paDyAM. eka boTa gumAvI. bIjI boTa mATe cAlIseka miniTa amAre rAha jovAnI hatI. bIjI kazI pravRtti nahotI eTale ame chUTAMchavAyAM zAMta besI rahyAM, paraMtu pelA kheDUtonI sapharajana khAvAnI pravRtti cAlu thaI. thoDI vAramAM to boTa mATenuM AkhuM pleTapherma sapharajananA kacarAthI zaNagArAI gayuM hatuM. hoTelamAM AvI sAMje ame badhAM DAIniMga holamAM jamavA beThAM. bhojana pIrasavAne haju thoDI vAra hatI. te vakhate ApaNA A bhAratIya vAikiMganAM parAkramonI ja gusapusa vAto cAlatI hatI. amArA Tebala upara beThelA eka bhAI bolyA, "charI-kAMTAthI kema jamavuM e paNa pUruM jemane AvaDatuM nathI evA ApaNA A loko paradeza jaI bhAratanI AbarU bagADe che." meM haLavethI kahyuM, "charI-kAMTAno upayoga temane nathI AvaDato ema huM nathI mAnato. mArI vAtanI tamane khAtarI na thatI hoya to barAbara dhyAnathI emane juo." amArI pAchaLa bIjA Tebala para beThelA temanI tarapha badhAe cUpacApa najara karI to vAta sAcI jaNAI, kAraNa ke eka jaNa jamavA mATenI charI vaDe, khurazI upara paga caDAvI, nakha kApI rahyo hato; bIjo charI vaDe potAne gaLe thayelA kharajavAne khaMjavALI rahyo hato ane trIjo kAMTA vaDe potAnA mAthAnA vALa sarakhA karI rahyo hato. charI-kAMTAno upayoga vAiDiMga paddhatithI karIne teo potAnA abhinaya nAmane sArthaka karI rahyA hatA. )

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53 jakArtAmAM hAI-jeka ? chaThThI jAnyuArI, 1977nA roja oNsTreliyAnA siDanI zaherathI huM siMgApura amArA vaDIla snehI devacaMdabhAI caMderiyAne ghare jaI rahyo hato. mArI pAse oNsTreliyAnI konTAsa eNralAinsanI TikiTa hatI. siDanIthI amAruM konTAsa vimAna inDoneziyAnA bAlI TApu thaIne jakArtA sudhI ja javAnuM hatuM. jakArtAmAM mAre vimAna badalI siMgApura eNralAinsanuM jakArtAthI siMgApura jatuM vimAna pakaDavAnuM hatuM. alabatta, mAro sAmAna to meM 'inTaralAina TrAnsaphara' mATe Apyo hato ke jethI te sIdho siMgApuramAM maLe. amAruM vimAna siDanIthI pacIsa miniTa moDuM UpaDyuM, paraMtu bAlI TApunA denapAsAra eNrapaoNrTa upara te pacIsane badale cAlIsa miniTa moDuM pahoMcyuM. vimAna UtaratuM hatuM tyAre eNrahaoNsTese nahIM, paNa khuda kaeNpTane jAherAta karatAM kahyuM : "sajjano ane sannArIo, ApaNuM vimAna uDDayananA nirdhArita samaya karatAM paMdara miniTa moDuM paDyuM che, paraMtu temAM amAro kaMI vAMka nathI, kAraNa ke siDanIthI amane havAI mArganA havAmAnanI je AgAhI jaNAvavAmAM AvI hatI te sAcI paDI nathI. rastAmAM sAmo pavana bahu joradAra hato. ene lIdhe ApaNuM vimAna dhArelI gati pakaDI zakyuM nathI. pariNAme vimAnane bAlI sudhInuM aMtara kApavAmAM paMdara miniTa vadhu lAgI che; to te mATe kSamA karazo." kaeNpTane kSamAsahita khulAso karyo tethI tene mATe Adara thayo, kAraNa ke khulAso na karyo hota to kone khabara paDavAnI hatI ? paMdara miniTa mATe koNa paMcAta karavA navaruM hatuM ? mArI TikiTamAM lakhelA samaya pramANe jakArtAmAM vimAna badalavA mATe mArI pAse phakta eka ja kalAkano samaya hato. sAmAna sIdho siMgApura mATe ApI dIdho hato, eTale vimAnamAMthI UtarI, TrAnjhiTamAM jaI, bIjA vimAnamAM besavA mATe eTalo samaya nAnA eNrapaoNrTa para pUrato gaNAya. paraMtu bAlI pahoMcatAM ja cAlIsa miniTa moDuM thaI gayuM, eTale jakArtAmAM have phakta vIsa miniTano samaya maLe. meM sTuvarDane mArI TikiTa batAvI, ane jakArtAmAM vimAna

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jakArtAmAM hAI-jema ? 241 badalavA mATe have keTalI zakyatA raheze te vize pUchyuM. TikiTa joI tarata ciDAIne eNe kahyuM, "be phalAiTa vacce ATalo ocho samaya rakhAto haze ? kaI eNra kaMpanIe tamane AvI TikiTa banAvI ApI ?" paraMtu potAnI ja eNralAinse evI TikiTa ApI hatI te joI tarata te cUpa thaI gayo ane jakArtAmAM vimAna badalavA mATe vIsa miniTamAM vAMdho nahi Ave, ema teNe kahyuM. vaLI badhuM kAma jhaDapathI thaI zake te mATe bIjA vimAna sudhI pote jAte mArI sAthe Avaze ema paNa kahyAM. enA sahakArabharyA zabdo mATe meM AbhAra mAnyo. bAlIthI vimAna UpaDyuM, paraMtu rana-ve para pahoMcatAM pahelAM ja pAchuM karyuM. keTane jAhera karyuM : "vimAnano eka nAno geja (Guage) barAbara cAlato nathI. te khAsa mahattvano geja nathI, paraMtu amArA niyama anusAra badhA geja barAbara cAlatA hoya to ja vimAna calAvI zakAya. eTale have thoDuM moDuM UpaDaze, to te mATe kSamA karazo." A jAherAta sAMbhaLatAM ja mane thayuM ke have to siMgApuranI phalAITa pakaDAya to pakaDAya. | vimAna UbhuM rahetAM mikenika Avyo. geja durasta karavAmAM Avyo. ilekTrika sAdhano dvArA gejanI pharI cakAsaNI thaI. badhuM barAbara jaNAtAM amAruM vimAna UpaDyuM, paraMtu A badhuM karavAmAM bIjo eka kalAka vItI gayo. pariNAme vimAna have jakArtA nizcita samaya karatAM eka kalAka ane cAlIsa miniTa moDuM hatuM. eno artha e thayo ke jakArtAthI siMgApura jatuM vimAna huM avazya cUkI jaIza, sivAya ke e vimAna pote ja koI kAraNasara moDuM UpaDavAnuM hoya. AMtararASTrIya vimAnasevA pramANe jo ApaNe DiskAunTa vagaranI pUrA daranI TikiTa lIdhI hoya to koI paNa eka eNrakaMpanIne badale bIjI kaMpanInA vimAnamAM pravAsa karI zakIe chIe. mArI TikiTa e pramANe hatI. eTale siMgApura eralAInsanuM vimAna UpaDI jAya to bIjI koI eNralAinsanuM vimAna paNa huM pakaDI zakuM. e mATe meM suvaDane kahyuM. te TAima-Tebala laIne mArI pAse Avyo ane jo Ine kahyuM, "siMgApura eNralAInsanA vimAna pachI jApAna eralAinsa, philipAInsa eNralAinsa ane garuDa eralAInsa (inDoneziyAnI erakaMpanI) ema bIjI traNa eralAinsanAM vimAna jakArtAthI siMgApura javA mATe che, paraMtu aphasosa ke e traNe ApaNe jakArtA pahoMcIe te pahelAM UpaDI jaze." pA-16

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242 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe A rIte mane nirAza karatAM TuvarDe kahyuM, "mApha karajo, Aje have tame siMgApura nahi pahoMcI zako. jakArtAmAM tamAre rAta rokAvuM ja paDaze. kAle savAre tamane anukuLa evI koI phalAiTamAM siMgApura mokalazuM. jakAtamAM rahevA, khAvA-pIvA mATe amArI eralAinsa taraphathI hoTelamAM tarata badhI vyavasthA thaI jaze. tamAro sAmAna tame siMgApura mATe Apyo che, paraMtu te ApaNA ja vimAnamAM amArA kabajAmAM che, eTale enI DilivarI huM tamane jakArtAmAM ja apAvI daIza. tamane kaMI takalIpha na paDe." - amAruM vimAna jakArtA pahoMcyuM. vimAna UtaratAM pahelAM sTavarDanI sUcanAthI kepTane eraporTa sAthe vAyaralesa dvArA tapAsa karI ke rakhe ne koI vimAna moDuM UpaDavAnuM hoya. paraMtu jANavA maLyuM ke siMgApura javA mATe chellAmAM chelluM vimAna paNa jakArtAthI UpaDI gayuM che. jakArtAmAM vimAnamAMthI ame UtaryA tyAre mAro sAmAna batAvavA mATe huM TuvarDa sAthe Ubho rahyo. sAmAna judo levAyo. ame kasTamsamAM dAkhala thayAM. tyAMthI TrAnjhiTa laoNnjamAM mane besADI sTavarDa hoTelamAM rahevA mATenI tathA TeksImAM zaheramAM AvavA-javAnI mArI vyavasthA aMge vAucaro banAvavA mATe gayo. jakAtanuM eNrapaoNrTa eTaluM nAnuM ane gIca ke mokaLAzathI haraphara karavAnI paNa jagyA nahi. jyAM juo tyAM goLa moMgoliyana caherAvALA ThIMgaNA inDoneziyana ane maleziyana pravAsIo haraphara karatA hatA. inDoneziyAmAM lazkarakI zAsana eTale eraporTa uparanA adhikArIo te paNa lazkarI mANaso. kamare laTakAvelI rivolvara sAthe gaNavezamAM pharatA adhikArIone lIdhe vAtAvaraNa gaMbhIra ane bhAre lAgatuM hatuM. sthAnika inDoneziyana loko sAthe vAtavAtamAM emano apamAnajanaka. raNako saMbhaLAyA kare. iMgliza bhASA to koIkane ja AvaDe. temAM huM to acAnaka vicitra paristhitimAM mukAyela hato. huM mArA bhAratIya caherAthI badhAMmAM judo paDI jato. be-traNa adhikArIo mArI pAse AvI gayA. teo mAro pAsaporTa tapAsatA ane mane potAnI bhASAmAM kaMIka pUchatA, paNa mane kaMI samaja paDe nahi, ane iMgliza teo jANe nahi, eTale huM to mArI TikiTa batAvIne "konTAsa oNphisara e zabdo bolIne je dizAmAM suvarDa gayo hato te dizAmAM AMgaLI cIMdhato. paristhiti evI lAgatI hatI ke jANe ophisaro mArA tarapha kaMIka vahemathI jotA na hoya ! Ama paNa bhArata ane inDoneziyA vacce tyAre

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jakArtAmAM hAI-jeka? 243 bahu sArA rAjadvArI saMbaMdho nahi. eTale oNphisaronuM mArA taraphanuM valaNa tochaDuM ane apamAnajanaka hoya te svAbhAvika hatuM. huM anya pravAsIo vacce jayAM beTho hato tyAMthI bIjI alaga jagyAe besavA mATe eka oNphisara ghAMTA pADIne mane sUcanA ApI gayo. sAmAna laIne huM tyAM beTho. eTalI vAramAM bIjo koI oNphisara Avyo ane tyAMthI bIjI eka jagyAe javA mATe eNe tochaDA avAje sUcanA karI. huM pharI pAcho te pramANe sAmAna laIne gayo. A Apakhuda, gAMDA saramukhatyArazAhI zAsanamAM vadhu bolavAthI zuM vaLe ? vaLI bhASAno paNa prazna hato, mAro tAraNahAra to ekamAtra TuvarDa hato ane te AvI pahoMce tenI AturatApUrvaka rAha joto e dizAmAM satata najara mAMDIne huM besI rahyo hato. aDadhA kalAka pachI TuvarDa Avyo. tenI sAthe eka inDoneziyana lazkarI oNphisara paNa hato. TuvarDa mane TrAnjhiTa laoNnjamAMthI sAmAna sAthe DipArcara laoNnjamAM laI gayo ane kahyuM, "mi. zAha, huM jAuM chuM, kAraNa ke amArI eNra-krUnI basa zaheramAM javA mATe tarata UpaDe che. tamAruM hoTelanuM vAucara meM A oNphisarane ApyuM che. paraMtu atyAre garuDa eralAinsanuM eka vimAna siMgApura mATe UpaDe evI zakyatA che. e jo nahi UpaDe to A ophisara hoTelanuM vAucara tamane Apaze. mATe tame barAbara ahIM ja besajo. ' kyAMya AghApAchA thatA nahi." teo baMne gayA. thoDI vAra pachI oNphisara Avyo. mArI TikiTamAMthI jakArtAthI siMgApura javAnI phalAiTa-kUpana mAgI lIdhI. teNe kahyuM, "jo vimAna UpaDavAnuM haze to huM tamArI phalAiTa-kUpana jamA karAvI daIza." tenI sAthenI vAtacIta parathI tarata pratIti thaI ke te iMgliza sAruM bolato hato; lazkarI adhikArI hato paNa bIjA jevI tochaDAI enAmAM nahotI. ane bIjAo ene salAma bharatA hatA te parathI lAgyuM ke te UMcI pAyarIno amaladAra hato. lagabhaga bIjo aDadho kalAka vItI gayo. judAM judAM sthaLo mATenI phalAiTa UpaDatI jatI hatI. musApharo ochA thatA jatA hatA. rAta vadhatI jatI hatI. sAthe mArI mUMjhavaNa paNa vadhatI jatI hatI. saramukhatyArazAhI na hoya tevuM koI eNrapaoNrTa hota to kadAca ATalI mUMjhavaNa na thAta. huM manamAM prArthanA karato rahyo. je thAya te jiMdagIno eka navo ja anubhava haze ema manane manAvato rahyo. thoDI thoDI vAre garuDanA kAunTara para jaIne tapAsa karI Avato hato. paraMtu tyAMthI to ema ja kahevAmAM AvatuM ke garuDanI

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244 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe chellI phalAiTa to kyAranI kaeNnsala thaI gaI che ane have koI phalAiTa nathI. huM mArI jagyAe AvIne beTho hato. thoDI vAra pachI huM pharI pAcho adhIro banI Ubho thayo ane siMgApura janAra bIjAM koI pravAsI che ke nahi te jANavA mATe koI koI pravAsIone 'garuDa eNralAinsa - siMgApura ?' ema pUchato rahyo. paraMtu eka paNa utArue pote siMgApura javAno che ema kahyuM nahi, ethI mArI ciMtA vadhatI gaI. pAcho huM thoDI vAra besI rahyo. evAmAM pelo oNphisara Avyo. mane kahyuM, "tamAro sAmAna laIne jaladI cAlo. garuDanI phalAiTa jAya che." phlAiTanA samAcAra jANI meM rAhata anubhavI. mAro AnaMda vyakta karatAM meM kahyuM, "bhale, AbhAra tamAro. mAruM borDiMga-kArDa ?' "borDiMga-kArDanI tamAre koI jarUra nathI. phrI-sITa che. tamArA mATe sUcanA apAI gaI che.'' oNphisara mane tarata TarminalanI bahAra laI gayo. sAmAna mATenI eka nAnakaDI, khullI TrolI pasAra thatI hatI te UbhI rakhAvI temAM mAro sAmAna mukAvyo. DrAivaranI bAjumAM mane besADavAmAM Avyo. mane ema ke oNphisara mArI sAthe Avaze, paraMtu eNe to DrAivarane potAnI bhASAmAM sUcanA ApI ne tarata TrolI cAlI. ethI huM jarA vimAsaNamAM paDyo. mArI pAse jakArtAthI siMgApuranI TikiTa (phalAiTa-kUpana) have nathI; borDiMga-kArDa paNa nathI. eNrapaoNrTanI aMdara gerakAyade dAkhala thavAno mArA upara Aropa mUkIne mArI dharapakaDa karavI hoya to karI zakAya tevI have sthiti hatI. koI bhedI cAla to nahi ramAtI hoya ne ? huM zaMkAzIla banato jato hato, kAraNa ke AMtararASTrIya ToLakIo AvI rIte ja ekaladokala pravAsIone phasAvatI hoya che. be deza vacce aNabanAva hoya to AvA pravAsIone bAna tarIke pakaDI rAkhavAmAM Ave che. vimAnonuM apaharaNa karavA mATe ke pravAsIonuM apaharaNa karavA mATe AvI rIte melI ramata ramAI jatI hoya che. e divasomAM inDoneziyAthI vimAna-apaharaNanA be kissA banyAnuM sAMbhaLyuM hatuM, eTale prasaMga ciMtA karAve tevo hato. eNrapaoNrTanA AchA aMdhArAmAM amArI TrolI cAlatI hatI. mArA manamAM jAtajAtanA ciMtAjanaka tarkavitarka thatA hatA. ema karatAM dUranA eka vimAna

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jakArtAmAM hAIjeka? 245 pAse TrolI UbhI rahI. DrAIvare InDoneziyana bhASAmAM kaMI kahyuM. sIDI pAse UbhelA eka TurnArDa kaDaka avAje iMglizamAM mane pUchyuM, "tame A vimAna hAIjeka karavA AvyA cho ?" gabharATamAM meM mAtra eTaluM ja kahyuM, "nA, huM zA mATe hAI-eka karuM?" pAse UbhelI erahosTese enA ja rUAbathI pUchyuM, "to zuM tame A vimAna cArTara karyuM che ?" nA, huM to siMgApura jAuM chuM. A cArTarDa vimAna che ?" hA, cArTarDa vimAna che." "mApha karajo, to pachI DrAivaranI kaMIka bhUla thatI lAge che ane mane khoTI jagyAe utAryo lAge che." tamAruM borDiMga-kArDa kyAM che ?" "mane ApyuM nathI paNa TrolInA DAivarane badhI sUcanA apAI che. e bhUlathI mane ahIM laI Avyo lAge che." mArA avAjamAM gabharATa hato. "DrAivaranI kaMI bhUla nathI. tame gabharAo nahi. A vimAna siMgApura jAya che. tamArA mATe cArTara karavAmAM AvyuM che." ema bolatAM TuvarDa ane eNrahaoNsTesa khaDakhaDATa hasavA lAgyAM. sIDInI upara vimAnamAM daravAjAmAM UbhelI bIjI erahosTeso paNa khaDakhaDATa hasI paDI. mArI majAka thatI hoya ema lAgyuM. paNa mane gamyuM, kAraNa ke ethI mAro manano phaphaDATa ocho thayo. erahosTesanI pAchaLa pAchaLa DrAIvara mAro sAmAna laIne caDyo. tenI pAchaLa dhrUjatA page huM vimAnamAM dAkhala thayo. prAivara mAro sAmAna laIne dAkhala thayo. hAivara Utaryo ke tarata TuvarDa vimAnano daravAjo baMdha karyo. aMdara jaIne joyuM to AkhuM vimAna khAlI hatuM ! mArA manamAM phALa paDI. eNrahaoNsTese mane kahyuM, "AkhuM vimAna khAlI che, sara, eTale tame pharsTa kalAsamAM besazo to paNa vAMdho nathI." ema kahI mane pharsTa klAsanI eka sITa para besADyo. huM beTho eTalAmAM to mane jovA mATe badhA TuvarDa, kesarI yuniphaoNrmamAM sajaja badhI eNrahaoNsTesa, kaeNpTana ane pAyaloTa mArI AsapAsa AvI pahoMcyAM. teo badhAM iMgliza sAruM bolatAM hatAM. eTale mUMjhavaNa TaLI gaI. keTane hasatAM hasatAM kahyuM, "tame vimAnane hAIjeka karI zako ema nathI. paNa ame tamane jarUra hAIjeka karI jaI zakIe tema chIe."

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246 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe paNa ethI tamane kaMI lAbha nahi thAya. mahenata mAthe paDaze. huM koI moTo rAjavI, udyogapati ke rAjadvArI puruSa nathI, ke mAre mATe tamane lAkho DaoNlara maLe. huM to eka sAmAnya adhyApaka chuM." meM paNa hasatAM hasatAM uttara Apyo. - vAtAvaraNa haLavuM banatAM meM rAhata anubhavI. A te svapna che ke satya tevuM ghaDIbhara mane thayuM. badhAMnA caherA hasatA hatA, eTale have Dara jevuM kaMI nahotuM lAgatuM. meM pUchyuM, "bIjA koI musApharI nathI ? AkhuM vimAna kema khAlI che ?" kaeNpTane khulAso karatAM kahyuM, "amArI A phalAiTa to cAra vAgye UpaDavAnI hatI, paraMtu A vimAna bahArathI ja cha vAgye jakAta pAchuM AvyuM eTale cAra vAgyAnI siMgApura mATenI phalAiTa sADAsAta vAgye UpaDaze tevI jAherAta thaI. paraMtu te daramiyAna A phalAiTanA badhA pravAsIo siMgApura eralAinsa, jApAna eralAInsa ane philipAinsa eralAinsanA vimAnomAM siMgApura cAlyA gayA. amArI A phalAiTanuM vAraMvAra enAunsamenTa karavA chatAM eka paNa pravAsI Avyo nahi eTale menejamenTe A phalAITa kensala jAhera karI." "to pachI have e siMgApura kema jAya che ?" "tamArA mATe. tame phalAiTa cArTarDa karI eTale." kaeNpTana hasI paDyo. pachI eNe kahyuM, "vastutaH amArI A phalAITa siMgApura jaIne tyAMthI tarata jakArtA pAchI pharavAnI hatI. A phalAITa kensala karavAmAM AvI che, tevuM siMgApuranI amArI ophisane jaNAvavAmAM AvyuM. paraMtu thoDI vAra pahelAM siMgApurathI saMdezo Avyo ke "lagabhaga baso pravAsIo jakArtA AvavA mATe A phalAITanI rAha joIne beThA che, kAraNa ke siMgApurathI A chellI phalAITa che. phalAITa jo kensala karAze to ATalA badhA. pravAsIone eralAinsanA kharce have hoTelamAM laI javA paDaze." AvA samAcAra maLatAM ja amArA menejamenTa vicAra badalyo ane nakkI karyuM ke khAlI phalAiTa paNa atyAre siMgApura uDADavI. e nakkI thayuM tevAmAM samAcAra AvyA ke eraporTamAM siMgApura javA mATe tame eka pravAsI taiyAra cho. eTale bIjI kaMI vidhi karavAno vilaMba na karatAM tamane sIdhA ja A vimAnamAM laI AvyA che." ,

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jakArtAmAM hAI-jeka? 247 meM hasIne kahyuM, "to to tamArI khAlI phalAiTanI khoTa mArA dvArA - eka TikiTa jeTalI ochI thaI !" te mATe tamAro AbhAra. paraMtu ethI eralAInsa karatAM tamane vadhu lAbha thayo che. IkonomI klAsanI eka TikiTamAM AkhuM DC-10 vimAna tamane jiMdagImAM bIjI vAra maLaze nahi." ema vaLatI majAka karIne kepTana hasatAM hasatAM potAnI kebinamAM gayo. badhA pAyaloTa paNa gayA. amAruM vimAna rana-ve para gayuM ane UpaDyuM. mArA manamAM vicAra cAlato hato ke moTAM taMtromAM vahIvaTI kAryadakSatAnA abhAve niSkAraNa keTaluM moTuM nukasAna thatuM hoya che ! jyAM khoTanI jaMgI rakama sarakArI copaDAomAM . vAraMvAra UdharatI hoya tyAM prajAno Arthika vikAsa keTalo vilaMbamAM paDe ! saramukhatyArazAhImAM e vize pUchanAra koNa ?" vimAna UMce caDI gayuM ane pATo bAMdhI rAkhavAnI sUcanA samApta thaI eTale eka erahosTese AvIne kahyuM, "sara, Aje to tame amArA mATe vI.AI.pI. cho. tame zuM jamazo ? amArI pAse baso musApharonuM jamavAnuM ema ne ema paDyuM che !" huM to konTAsanA vimAnamAM savArathI khAto Avyo chuM, tethI bhUkha nathI. thoDI je bhUkha hatI te paNa mArI nAkhI che tamArA eraporTanA amaladAroe mane gabharAvI-gabharAvIne." ) mAre kazuM khAvuM na hatuM chatAM TuvaDa ane era haoNsTesonA Agrahane mAna ApIne meM cA-dUdha ane ekabe phaLa lIdhAM. kIkI tArInA nAmanI eka erahosTesa cokaleTa bharelI plAsTikanI moTI kothaLI mane ApI gaI ane kahyuM, "Aje amAre cokaleTa paNa vaparAI nathI. kaeNpTane A pekeTa tamane ApavAnuM khAsa kahyuM che." meM nA pADI chatAM bahu AgrahapUrvaka ane te pekeTa opavAmAM AvyuM. AbhAra mAnatAM temanI pAsethI zIkhelA temanI bhASAnA zabdomAM meM kahyuM, terImA-kAsIha (tamAro AbhAra). uDDayana daramiyAna badhA TuvarDa ane erahosTeso sAthe InDoneziyA ane bhArata vize ghaNI vAto thaI. kyAM jakAta eraporTanuM DarAmaNuM vAtAvaraNa ane kyAM enA vimAnanuM sadabhAvabharyuM ullAsamaya vAtAvaraNa ! InDoneziyAnI saramukhatyArazAhI koIne gamatI nathI, te vAta badhAMe mukta svare kahI. mArI vinaMtIthI TuvarDo ane erahosTesoe keTalAMka InDoneziyana lokagIto bulaMda svare gAI saMbhaLAvyAM.

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2 48 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe be kalAka to ghaDIkamAM pasAra thaI gayA. vimAna siMgApura UtaryuM. erahosTeso, TuvarDo, pAyaloTo ane khuda kaeNpTana - e badhAM sIDI pAse AvIne UbhAM rahyAM. badhAMnI premabharI vidAya letAM meM kahyuM, "salAmata tiMgala' (Avajo). javAbamAM teo badhAM bolyAM : "salAmata jAlana" (padhArajo). phakta huM eka ja pravAsI hato eTale mArA sAmAna sAthe jhaDapathI TarminalanA makAnamAM AvI siMgApuranA kasTamsamAMthI bahAra nIkaLyo. tyAM gaLa ja devacaMdabhAI ane emanAM patnI puSpAbahena mArI rAha jotAM UbhAM hatAM. devacaMdabhAIe kahyuM, "siMgApura eNralAInsanA pesenjara-lisTamAM tamAruM nAma hatuM ane tame AvyAM nahi eTale amane ciMtA thaI. tamArA nAmanuM ghaNI vAra enAunsamenTa meM karAvyuM. chevaTe ame nirAza thaI pAchAM jatAM hatAM tyAM garuDanI chellI eka phalAITa Ave che tevA samAcAra AvatAM ame rokAyAM. Aje to amArI dhIrajanI kasoTI thaI." meM puSpAbahenane kahyuM, "tamane to paganI takalIpha che. Aje mAre mATe tamAre keTalI badhI vAra UbhA rahevuM paDyuM !" puSpAbahene kahyuM, "toya tame AvyA eTale amane AnaMda thayo. dhakko na paDyo ane ciMtA TaLI." eTalAmAM devacaMdabhAInA putra praphullabhAI pArkiMga vistAramAMthI gADI laIne AvI gayA. teo badhAnI sAthe huM temanA nasIma roDanA nivAsasthAne pahoMcI gayo.

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Uleiul - 2HLAIGIIG ail: 218 Uiu M34403 Q82516) yAhaka kA phoTo PHOTOGRAPH OF BEARE R.C.shah SIGNATURE OF BEARER 13% lawa Aa 1971 VINC NADI 2406 Taiste 6 Valid for ONE EXILED M344003 MISSAO DIPLOMATICA DO BRASIL buysix) aeda suus vIjA VISAS Visto n. Bo para o norne un SHAH RAMANLRL GRANS Viaja para o Brasil e foa: URS 23. De acordo com o quem do Decre 0 Lei n $41. de 1? dei ubro de 1969. 12NSULAR - EM: NOVA C.m. M. N a CONSULAR = WINK sa. Seg m entacao comples hotels 24 e Lirent. de 1939 on Vight on SACS ERBAITA 091 256/ Male/Female CHILDREN ke of Birth ob connus TOURIST Felix 90 dag* star in the country. Roe Her :d to pract paint tetannersted Tyy. Dee. Le u 941 de 12.10.1920 de Ouro-Pro VISTO VALIDO PARA DESEMBARY NO BRASIL ATE O DIA . VISA 5 VAL. Lux o CPTC Ti VISAS vAjJA M 344003 IS IMMIGRATION THE 52002 / h 70 212 IMMIGRATION V 12. 01/ Good for majd eutherised stay Twin ied passport tocmais velit, Zach tis! Cennis- Nerant's of dato horar sing'to No Sasa at ito New Zealand Suya .: CR JOSE For Private & Personal use on