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________________ pAzALIpANiI bhAga | Trt, mA ja kAma baka pre te ? eka ja kAna che THESE ARE TO REOSTADRORENTION OF THE PIDENT CP TRIPUR A ALL THOSE WHOM IT MAT CONCERN TO ALLO TIENEARN TOPAESFILELY WITHOUTLETON ORLAMELAND TOATTOMOOL EVERY ASTANGE AND FO.OTION OF WOCHEORGHE MAY STANDINO bhAhalayamarIkeza diyA gayA WORD OF THE IDENT OF THE REPUBLIC OF INDIA Rawas OTTA A PAWAR porintendeat, KR PI TITLE Illilti hatia (1Th at') K i ng' to te - ramaNalAla thI. zAha
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe bhAga trIjo (1998 pachI lakhAyelA anubhavono svataMtra saMgraha) lekhaka ramaNalAla cI. zAha prakAzaka zrI muMbaI jene yuvaka saMgha 35, saradAra vallabhabhAI paTela roDa, muMbaI-400 004
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________________ PASSPORT NEE PANKHE PART THREE (A COLLECTION OF FOREIGN TRAVEL EXPERIENCES) By Dr. RAMANLAL C. SHAH Published By - First Edition : April 2004 Shree Mumbai Jain Yuvak Sangh 385, Sardar V. P. Road, Mumbai - 400 004 Price : Rs. 200-00 prathama AvRtti : eprila 2004 kiMmata : rUpiyA baso - prakAzaka : zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMgha 385, saradAra vallabhabhAI paTela roDa, muMbaI-400 004 No copyright vikretAo : (1) Ara. Ara. zeThanI kaMpanI muMbaI-400 002 * amadAvAda-380 001 (2) gUrjara graMtharatna kAryAlaya amadAvAda 380 001 (3) navabhArata sAhitya maMdira mudraka : caMdrikA prinTarI mIrajhApura roDa, amadAvAda-380 001 muMbaI-400 002 * amadAvAda-380 001
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________________ arpaNa a.sau. puSpAbahena mahendrabhAI zAha tathA zrI mahendrabhAI khumacaMda zAha (sva. ratanacaMda jorAjI parivAra - maMDAra) sahayAtrAnAM saMbhAraNAM sAthe ramaNabhAI zAha III
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________________ kopIrAITanuM visarjana mArA pragaTa thayela sarva graMtho ane anya sarva lakhANonAM anuvAda, saMkSepa, saMpAdana, punaHprakAzana ityAdi mATenA koI paNa prakAranA kaoNpIrAiTa havethI rAkhavAmAM AvyA nathI. anya koI vyaktine ke koI prakAzakane koI paNa graMthanI prathama AvRtti mATe kopIrAITa ApelA hoya to tenuM paNa visarjana karavAmAM AvyuM che. have pachI prakAzita thanArA mArA koI paNa lakhANa mATe kaoNpIrAITa raheze nahi. muMbaI ramaNalAla cI. zAha tA. 1-1-1992 V
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________________ DaoN. ramaNalAla cI. zAhanAM pustako ekAMkIsaMgraha : 4 zyAma raMga samIpe jIvanacaritra-rekhAcitra-saMsmaraNa : * gulAmono muktidAtA upAdhyAya zrI yazovijayajI * hemacaMdrAcArya 8 zrI mohanalAlajI mahArAja ja vaMdanIya hRdayasparza, bhA. 1-2-3 . zeTha motIzAha berarathI brigeDiyara che prabhAvaka sthaviro, bhAga 1 thI 5 ja tiviheNa vaMdAmi ja paMDita sukhalAlajI pravAsa-zodha-saphara : ja evaresTanuM ArohaNa * uttaradhruvanI zodha-saphara # pradeze jaya-vijayanA nyUjhIlenDa * pAsaporTanI pAMkhe 8 oNsTreliyA che pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - uttarAlekhana sA rANakapura tIrtha ka pAsaporTanI pAMkhe : bhAga trIjo nibaMdha : 8 sAMprata sahaciMtana, bhAga 1 thI 14 6 abhiciMtanA sAhitya-vivecana : & gujarAtI sAhityanuM rekhAdarzana (anya sAthe) che. narasiMha pUrvenuM gujarAtI sAhitya 4 buMgAku-zumi A paDilehA & samayasuMdara che kritikA ka 1962nuM graMthastha vAdhaya naLa-damayaMtInI kathAno vikAsa * gUrjara phAgusAhitya saMzodhana-saMpAdana : A nala-davadaMtI rAsa Dha jaMbusvAmI rAsa (samayasuMdarata) (yazovijayajIta) * kuvalayamALA ja mRgAvatIcaritra copAI (udyotanasUrikRta) (samayasuMdarakRta) & thAvasyAsuta riSi copAI (samayasuMdarakRta) 8 nalarAya-davadaMtI caritra (RSivardhanasUrikRta)
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________________ * dhannA-zAlibhadra copAI (guNavinayakRta) * be laghu rAsakRtio (jJAnasAgarakRta ane kSamAkalyANakRta) * nala-davadaMtI prabaMdha (vijayazekharakRta) dharma-tattvajJAna : jaina dharma (chaThThI AvRtti) jaina dharma (marAThI AvRtti) *Shraman Bhagwan Mahavir & Jainism * Buddhism - An Introduction * JinaVachana * jinatattva, bhAga 1 thI 8 * kanphyUziyasano nItidharma * vIraprabhunAM vacano, bhAga 1 saMkSepa H * sarasvatIcaMdra, bhAga 1 (pAThyasaMkSepa) anuvAda : * manISA * zreSTha nibaMdhikAo nIrAjanA akSarA * kavitAlaharI * samayaciMtana * tAo darzana * adhyAtmasAra, bhAga 1-2-3 * rAhula sAMkRtyAyana (sAhitya akAdamI, dilhI) bhAratanI rASTrIya saMskRti (naeNzanala buka TrasTa, dilhI) saMpAdana (anya sAthe) : jaina dharma (hindI AvRtti) bauddha dharma * nihavavAda zabdaloka * ciMtanayAtrA avagAhana jIvanadarpaNa tattvavicAra ane abhivaMdanA mahattarA zrI mRgAvatIzrIjI * jaina sAhitya samAroha, guccha 1-2-3-4 * zrI vijayAnaMdasUri svargArohaNa zatAbdI graMtha zrImad yatIndrasUri dIkSAzatAbdI graMtha prakIrNa : * ena. sI. sI. * jaina lagnavidhi VI
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________________ nivedana videzapravAsanI have koI navAI nathI, paNa anubhavo darekanA judA judA hoya che. emAM paNa abhigama, abhiruci, avalokana, avabodha ane anuciMtanamAM vyaktie vyaktie pharaka rahevAno. vaLI, pravAsanA potAnA anubhavo zrotAo samakSa rasika rIte kahevA e eka vAta che ane e anubhavone lekhita svarUpa ApavuM te bIjI vAta che. baMnemAM pravAsInuM vyaktitva parakhAyA vagara rahetuM nathI. eTale ja pravAsa mATenI lekhakanI abhimukhatA ane pUrvasajjatA keTalI che tathA enI rajUAta mATe lekhakanI dRSTizakti kevI che enuM paNa mahattva che. 'pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe'nA nAme videzapravAsanA mArA vividha anubhavono A trIjo svataMtra saMgraha prakAzita thAya che e mAre mATe tathA mArA parivAranA sabhyo ane snehI-mitro mATe bahu AnaMdanI vAta che. videzanA pravAsanA anubhavo vize lakhavA mATe mane sauprathama protsAhita karanAra sva. mu. zrI bacubhAI rAvata hatA. 1977mAM mAre oNsTreliyAnA pravAse javAnuM nakkI thayuM tyAre pAchA AvIne te vize mAre 'kumAra'mAM sacitra lekhamALA ApavI e mATe emaNe Agraha karyo. 'kumAra'mAM pragaTa thayelI 'pradeze jayavijayanA' nAmanI e lekhamALA pachIthI svataMtra pravAsagraMtha tarIke prasiddha thaI hatI. 'pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe' lakhavA mATe mane 'navanIta-samarpaNa'nA taMtrI zrI ghanazyAma desAInuM protsAhana maLyuM hatuM. 1983mAM 'pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe' nAmanA graMthanuM prakAzana thayuM tyAre mane kalpanA nahotI ke AvA bIjA be saMgraha prakAzita thaze. vastutaH 'pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe'ne je saphaLatA maLI te mAre mATe preraNAdAyI hatI. chellA be-aDhI dAyakAmAM videzapravAsanI bIjI ghaNI taka mane maLI che. eTale ja mArA mitro zrI dhanazyAma desAI ane zrI dIpakabhAI dozIe 'navanIta'mAM trIjI vAra zreNI cAlu ka2vA mATe AgrahapUrvaka prastAva mUkyo. pariNAme I.sa. 2000thI 2004nAM savA be varSa sudhI A anubhavalekho 'navanIta'mAM prakAzita thatA rahyA hatA. e have graMthasvarUpe, 'pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe'nA trIjA bhAga tarIke prakAzita thAya che. 'pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe'nI pravAsakathAonA lekhanamAM pahelethI evo upakrama rAkhyo che ke pratyeka anubhava svataMtra lekharUpa hoya, je svayaMparyApta hoya. vAcakane kazuMka navuM jANavA maLe, vArtA jevo rasa paDe ane mAro potAno vyaktigata lAkSaNika anubhava hoya evA anubhavo vize A pravAsalekho lakhyA che. emAM jema jema sphuraNA thatI gaI tema tema lakhato gayo chuM. AthI traNe bhAganA ekasothI adhika pravAsalekho je VII
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________________ che te badhA anukrame vAMcavAnuM anivArya nathI. e badhA kAlAnukrame ke bhaugolika vibhAga anusAra goThavyA nathI. jema jema e lakhAtA gayA ane chapAtA gayA, ghaNuMkharuM te krame traNe bhAgamAM chapAyA che. eTale A pravAsalekhono anukrama dRDha nathI. vAcaka potAnI ruci anusAra game te krame e vAMcI zake che. A badhA pravAsalekho bhaviSyamAM vividha dRSTikoNathI vividha kramamAM goThavIne prakAzita karI zakAya ema che. meM mArA kaoNpIrAiTanuM visarjana karyuM che eTale koI paNa saMpAdaka potAnI dRSTithI enuM saMpAdana-prakAzana karI zake che. zALAkaoNlejanA pAThyapustakanI dRSTie emAM Avazyaka jaNAya tyAM saMkSepa paNa karI zake che. e mATe mArI anumati levAnI jarU2 rahetI nathI. A trIjA bhAga sAthe 'pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe'nA anubhavo vize lakhavAnuM baMdha thatuM nathI. haju ghaNA anubhavo vize lakhavAnI bhAvanA che. vaLI, svadezanA anubhavo vize paNa lakhavA mATe mitrono Agraha che. samagra bhAratamAM kAzmIra himAlayathI kanyAkumArI ane dvArakA -- nArAyaNa sarovarathI dArjIliMga - sikima sudhI ghaNI badhI vAra paribhramaNa karavAno avasara sAMpaDyo che. emAM 'khajurAho' vize eka pravAsalekha lakhyo che te A graMthamAM pariziSTa (svadeze paribhramaNa) tarIke mUkyo che. evA bIjA pravAsalekho lakhAtAM teno judo saMgraha pragaTa karavAmAM Avaze. 'pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe' vAMcIne protsAhana ApanAra mArA AtmIya vaDIlo sva. viSNuprasAda trivedI, sva. caMdravadana mahetA, sva. bhRgurAya aMjAriyA, sva. Izvara peTalIkara, sva. cI. nA. paTela vagerene bhAvathI aMjali arpe chuM. mu. DaoN. raNajitabhAI paTela - anAmI sAhebanuM protsAhana Aja paryaMta niraMtara maLatuM rahyuM che. mArA parama mitra pro. jazavaMtabhAI zekhaDIvALA 'prabuddha jIvana' ane 'navanIta'mAM pragaTa thatAM mArAM badhAM lakhANo niyamita vAMcatA rahyA che. A trIjA bhAga mATe mArI vinaMtIne mAnya rAkhIne emaNe purovacana lakhI ApyuM che. e mATe emano AbhArI chuM. tabiyatanI pratikULatAne kAraNe teo bahu pravAsa karatA nathI, paNa itihAsa ane vizeSata: bhUgoLamAM emano rasa ane emanI jANakArI mArA karatAM paNa savizeSa che. A anubhavaprasaMgonA lekhana daramiyAna mArAM svajanoe (patnI, putra, putravadhU, putrI, jamAI vageree) keTalAMka upayogI sUcano karyAM che eno RNasvIkAra ahIM karI lauM chuM. 'navanIta'mAM prakAzita thayA pachI graMthasvarUpe pragaTa karatAM pahelAM kyAMka zAbdika pheraphAro karyA che ane mudraNadoSo nivArI lIdhA che. 'navanIta-samarpaNa'mAM 'pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe'nI zreNI traNa vAra prakAzita karavA mATe taMtrI zrI ghanazyAma desAI, sahataMtrI zrI dIpakabhAI dozI tathA emanAM VIII
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________________ madadanIza zrI anasUyAbahenano atyaMta AbhArI chuM. emanA mamatAbharyA Agraha vinA A pravAsalekho lakhavAnuM banyuM na hota ! A graMthanA prakAzananI javAbadArI amArA zrI muMbaI jaina yuvaka saMghe upADI lIdhI che e badala saMghano ane sarva kAryakartAono RNI chuM. vikretA tarIke javAbadArI svIkAravA badala Ara. Ara. zeThanI kaMpanIno, gUrjara graMtharatna kAryAlayano ane navabhArata sAhitya maMdirano tathA mudraNakAryanI javAbadArI upADI levA badala DaoN. zivalAla jesalapurAno ane emanA suputra zrI girIzabhAI jesalapurAno paNa AbhArI chuM. A lekhamALAnA lekhana-prakAzana daramiyAna nAnAMmoTAM prakIrNa kAmomAM sahAya karanAra zrI azoka palasamakarane kema bhulAya ? ane mArA priya vAcakone to yAda karyA vagara rahI zake nahi. vAMcIne potAno pratibhAva darzAvanAra keTalA badhA vAcako sAthe patramaitrI thaI che ! A pravAsagraMtha vAMcIne koIne paNa AnaMda ane preraNA maLaze, evo pravAsa karavAnI taka maLaze to mAruM lakhavuM sArthaka thayuM che ema mAnIza. muMbaI ramaNalAla cI. zAha caitra suda , guDI paDavo vi.saM. 2060 ravivAra, tA. 21-3-2004 IX
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________________ pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 : rocaka pravAsakathA pro. jazavaMta zekhaDIvALA DaoN. ramaNalAla zAha sAhityanA gaMbhIra vivecaka-saMzodhaka-saMpAdaka tarIke jANItA che. pravAsakathAnA sArA lekhaka tarIke temanI tevI prasiddhi thaI nathI. vastuta:, gujarAtInA teo eka uttama pravAsakathAlekhaka paNa che. "pAsaporTanI pAMkhe' nAmadhArI temanI pravAsakathA vAcakomAM ghaNI lokapriya thaI che, ane vivecako dvArA ghaNI prazaMsA pAmI che. alpa samayAvadhimAM tenI bIjI AvRtti prakAzita thaI che. vizvavidyAlayamAM, gujarAtI viSayanA ucca abhyAsakramamAM, pAThyapustaka tarIke tene sthAna maLyuM che. gujarAtI sAhityanI eka uttama pravAsakathA tarIke tenI gaNanA thaI che. te pachI prakAzita "pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'no bIjo bhAga paNa tevo ja lokapriya thayo. have teno trIjo bhAga prakAzita thaI rahyo che. tenA pahelA-bIjA bhAga jevo A trIjo bhAga paNa vAcako-vivecakono prema-AdarabhAva avazya meLavI zakaze. pUrve "navanIta-samarpaNa' sAmayikamAM dhArAvAhI rUpe jyAre tenuM prakAzana thaI rahyuM hatuM tyAre vAcakone te ghaNuM gamyuM hatuM. pustakarUpamAM te savizeSa gamaze. svAmI saccidAnaMda, bhoLAbhAI paTela, prIti senaguptAnI jema DaoN. ramaNalAla zAha paNa utsAhI jagatapravAsI che. vividha nimitte temaNe eziyA, AphrikA, yuropa, uttara-dakSiNa amerikA, osTreliyA, nyUjhIlenDanA pravAsa kheDyA che. temaNe khullI ane nirmaLa AMkhe, AnaMda-vismaya-kutUhala-jJAnaprAptinA bhAvapUrvaka, vividha dezo-pradezo joyA che, ane temanuM saMvedanA-kalpanA-vicArayukta, saraLa madhura pravAhI citrAtmaka zailImAM, surekha ane rasaLatuM nirUpaNa karyuM che. teo sAhityanA adhyApaka che, vivecaka tema sarjaka che. bhUgoLa-itihAsadarzanazAstranA abhyAsI che ane saraLa-madhura-sukomaLa svabhAvanA umadA manuSya che; tethI sahaja-svAbhAvika rUpamAM joyelA pradezonI, ramya-karAla-vilakSaNa-dhyAnapAtra, prakRtinuM ane saMskRtinuM, alapajhalapa chatAM vAstavika tema hRdayaMgama nirUpaNa anAyAse karI zakyA che temAM lAghava, vaividhya, vyaMjanA hoya che ane prasaMgopAtta haLavo nirdoSa vinoda paNa hoya che; paraMtu kyAMya anAvazyaka lAge tevuM Alekhana ke AyAsajanya ciMtana kaLAtAM nathI; kazuM kRtaka ke kutsita jovA maLatuM nathI. prAkRtika dRzyo, ghaTanAo yA maLela vyaktionA nirUpaNamAM koI vAra niSkarSa rUpe lekhakIya TIkA-TippaNa-ciMtana rajU thayAM che, paraMtu te ciMtananA bhArathI ke TIkA-TippaNanI kaTutAthI sarvathA mukta rahyAM che. A pravAsakathAnA samagra nirUpaNamAM nikhAlasatA, madhuratA, haLavAza, svAbhAvikatAno sAvaMta anubhava thAya che. pAsaporTanI pAMkhanA pUrve prakAzita prathama be bhAganI AvI badhI lAkSaNikatAo (ane eka ja khaMDanAM ya eka ja dezanAM vividha sthaLonuM nirUpaNa sAthosAtha saLaMgasUtratA yukta karavAne badale game tyAM vairabhAve karavAnI vilakSaNatA) tenA A trIjA bhAgamAM paNa joI zakAya che. pravAsakathAnuM nirUpaNa, pravAsa pachI, amuka samayAMtare thayuM che. mahadaMze te saMsmaraNajanya che. temAM pravAsa daramiyAna joyelAM sthaLakALa-ghaTanA-manuSya-kArya vagere vize lekhaka dvArA levAyelI noMdhono ane saMvedanA-kalpanA-ciMtanasikta saMsmaraNo ubhayano viniyoga thayo che; X
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________________ tethI nirUpaNa prAmANika ane zraddheya temaja saMvedha ane AsvAdya banyuM che. temAM satya-zivasuMdarano sarasa suyoga sadhAyo che. bhAvakane te avabodha ane AsvAda yugapada ApI zake tema che. pUrvenA be bhAganA anusaMdhAnamAM lakhAyela A trIjA bhAgamAM paNa eziyA, AphrikA, yuropa, amerikA, oNsTreliyA khaMDanA vividha dezonAM AkarSaka sthaLonA pravAsanAM saMsmaraNa nirUpAyAM che. eziyAnAM Araba-amIrAta sthita abudhAbI, inDoneziyAnAM bAlI, jAvAsthita bAnDaMga ane borobudura, dakSiNa cInanA sAgarataTa paranuM paoNrTugIjha saMsthAna makAu, dakSiNa cInanuM kvailina, haMsa pegoDA dharAvatuM madhyacInanuM nagara ziAna, yuropa-eziyA khaMDano saMgama dAkhavatuM istaMbula-konsTenTinopala; AphrikA khaMDanA dakSiNa AphrikA dezamAM Avela zAhamRganA vADA, paoNrTa elijhAbetha, madhya AphrikAnA cuvAnDA ane buruMDI deza ane tenI rAjadhAnI bujumburA, jhimbAbve ane tenI jhAmbejhI nadI parano vikToriyA dhodha, zveta ane bhUrI nAIla nadIonA saMgamasthAne vasela sudAna dezanuM pATanagara khArTUma; yuropano naoNrve deza ane tenI rAjadhAnI oNslo, uttaradhruva vartuLamAM Avela Trumso, AlTA ane hAmaraphesTa zahera, madhyarAtrinA sUryano pradeza naoNrthakepa, amerikAnuM kaeNliphaoNrniyA rAjya ane tyAM UgatAM vilakSaNa sikoyA vRkSa, alAskA rAjya ane tenuM mukhya zahera pherabaeNnksa; oNsTreliyAnA IzAnI samudrakinArA pAsenI greTa beriyara rIpha, nyUjhIlaeNnDanA dakSiNa dvIpanAM milpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka vagerenAM temAM alapajhalapa chatAM surekha ane hRdya citro AlekhAyAM che. temAM varNita sthaLo vizenI daMtakathAo, itihAsakathAo paNa prasaMgopAtta AlekhAI che : 'sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa', 'bAnDaMgano jvALAmukhI - TAMkubAna parAhu', 'vikToriyA dhodha','haMsa pegoDA', 'istaMbula' vageremAM. temAM Izvaradatta sthAnika prakRti ane mAnavasarjita saMskRti beunAM manahara ane manabhara zabdacitro dorAyelAM jovA maLe che. temAM ghotaka tAdaza varNano dvArA temanAM vilakSaNa rUponuM AhlAdaka darzana karAvAyuM che. AthamatA sUryanA prakAzamAM jhaLahaLatAM kAcanAM makAno (abudhAbInI sAMja), jAvAsthita borobudurano virATa bhavya buddha-stUpa (borobudura), jhAmbejhI nadInA dhodhanI sIkaromAM sarjAtA meghadhanuSya (vikToriyA dhodha), adbhuta dhruvapradeza ane tenuM sAkSAtkAra darzana karAvatI romAMcaka philma (TrothI AlTA), uttara naoNrvenA sUryatApe ogaLatA himAcchAdita DuMgaronI jaladhArAo (hAmaraphesTa) vagerenAM varNana tenAM ghotaka che. lekhakanI indriyasaMvedya zailIe A varNanone mUrta, surekha, raMgIna, jIvaMta karI dIdhAM che. te kevAM AkarSaka che ane temAM yojAyela alaMkAro kevA navIna, tAjagIbharyA, bhAvavAhI che e tenAM keTalAMka udAha2No jotAM samajI zakAze : "eka cheDe 'ogoha ogoha'nA lAla, lIlo ane vAdaLI ema gherA raMganAM traNa moTAM pUtaLAM hatAM.... puruSoe sapheda aMgarakhuM, kesarI athavA sapheda 'saroMga' (kamare 5he2vAnuM luMgI jevuM vastra) paheryAM hatAM. mAthe sapheda paTTo bAMdhyo hato. badhA ughADe page hatA. teo eka bAju traNa hAramAM goThavAyA. bIjI bAju mahilAoe AchA pILA raMganuM uparanuM vastra, kesarI raMganuM saroMga paheryuM hatuM ane kamare raMgIna paTTo bAMdhyo hato..." (bAlImAM besatuM varSa) "ahIM AMbAnAM vRkSo para moTI moTI kerIo laTakI rahI che. ahIM ghaTAdAra lImaDA che ane vaDanI vaDavAIono vistAra che. pIpaLo ahIM pavitra vRkSa tarIke pujAya che. kesarI ane pILAM gulamahora taDakAmAM hasI rahyAM che. sUryakiraNo jhIlIne tulasI praphullita banI che. XI
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________________ kareNa ane caMpo phUla kherave che. tADa ane nAriyeLI UMcAI mATe spardhA karI rahyAM che. thora ane papaiyA zAkhA prasarAvI rahyAM che. keLa para keLAMnI lUmo laTakI rahI che. bAramAsInAM phUla vAyu sAthe ramI rahyAM che. ahIM svaccha AkAzamAMthI relAto taDako ane dharatInI garama dhULa paNa jANe gujarAtano ja anubhava karAvatAM hatAM." (bujumburA) keTalAMka citrAtmaka varNano, temAM yojAyela vilakSaNa alaMkAra thakI, varNita vastu anuSaMge, vAstavikatAno ane kalpanAno, lAgaNI ane vicArano AhlAdaka anubhava karAve che. temanI navInatA, tAjagI, mArmikatA bhAvakanA cittane sparzI jAya che; jema ke, "TekApo (Tekapo) nAmanuM sarovara jovA maLyuM. AchA morapiccha jevo enA pANIno anokho raMga jiMdagImAM anyatra kyAMya jovA maLyo nathI. sUkAM medAno vacce A laMbavartuLa sarovara jANe dharatI mAtAe opalamaDheluM ghareNuM paheryuM hoya evuM lAgatuM hatuM." (milpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa phUMka) "samudramAM thoDe dUrathI joIe to sIdho, UMco, jADo ane bhUkharA raMgano khaDaka, jANe airAvata hAthIe pANImAM paga mUkyo hoya evo lAge." (naoNrthakepa) "jUna mahino eTale himAcchAdita DuMgarAono kaparo kALa. sUryanArAyaNa emane raDAvIne ja jaMpe. zveta jaTAdhArI DuMgaro codhAra (be AMkhonA cAra khUNe) nahi paNa zatadhAra AMsu vahAve... AMsu sArI sArIne nisteja ane zuSka banelA DuMgaro kyAreka AkAzamAMthI, gautama RSinA zApa pachI pazcAttApa anubhavatA sahasrAkSa indrane -vRSTinA devatAne, hajAra AMkhe thIjelAM AMsu (snow) potAnA upara vahAvato joIne sahAnubhUtipUrvaka sAMtvana anubhave che." (hAmaraphesTa) pravAsI lekhaka gaMbhIra prakRtinA paNa prasannamanA manuSya che. binajarUrI ane kRtaka gAMbhIryathI teo dUra ja rahe che. prasaMgopAtta, kaThoratA-kaTutAthI sarvathA mukta, nirdoSa vinoda paNa karI le che. potAne bhoge paNa teo hasI zake che. aneka pravAsacitromAM AvA vinodanI AchI lakIro joI zakAya che. keTalAMka udAharaNa juo : .acAnaka pAchaLathI mArA khabhA upara paNa eka moTo vAMdaro caDI beTho. huM gabharAyo nahi, paNa AvI ghaTanA ociMtI bane eTale stabdha thaI javAya. have vAMdarAne nIce kevI rIte utAravo ? tyAM to mArI sAthe cAlatI chokarIe kahyuM, 'sara, sara, beya hatheLI pahoLI khullI karI nAkho.'meM beya hatheLI khullI karI nAkhI ke tarata vAMdaro ApoApa nIce UtarI gayo... beya hatheLI khullI batAvo to samajI jAya ke khAvAnuM khalAsa thaI gayuM che, eTale cAlyo jAya." (bAlImAM besatuM varSa) rC/ "kaoNphI paNa maLatI hatI. eka kapanA baso rUpiyA. TADha uDADavA kaoNphI pIvI paDe ane kaoNphInA bhAva sAMbhaLI TADha vAya. eTale kaoNphI pIvAnuM ame mAMDI vALyuM." (TussothI AlTA) "keTalAka DuMgaro para mAtra mastake ja barapha rahelo che. eka DuMgara upara dhoLA baraphano AkAra evo hato ke jANe eNe mAthe gAMdhI TopI paherI na hoya ! manamAM thayuM ke 'aho ! gAMdhIjInA saMniSTha svayaMsevako TheTha ahIM sudhI AvI pahoMcyA chene !'... ApaNA pUrA 73 divasa (rAtri sahita) barAbara emano eka divasa. purANakathAomAM Ave che ke devonA eka divasa barAbara ApaNA amuka divaso. ahIM hAmaraphesTamAM ame devonA divasamAM hoIe evuM sAkSAt anubhavyuM."(hAmaraphesTa) "bahAra to sakhata ThaMDI hatI ane AchA dhummasa jevuM vAtAvaraNa hatuM. ene lIdhe bolatI XII
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________________ vakhate darekanA moDhAmAMthI dhumADA nIkaLatA hatA. sigAreTa pIdhA vagara sigAreTanA dhumADA kADhavAno AnaMda mANI zakAyo. thoDI vAra havA moDhAmAM rokI rAkhI gAla phulAvIne pachI ghaTTa dhumADAnI lAMbI sera paNa kADhI zakAya." (milpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka) paraMtu prasaMgopAtta vinoda karatA lekhaka harahaMmeza karuNAmaya, samabhAvazIla, nItiniSTha ane prAmANika rahe che. potAne agavaDa yA takalIphamAM mUkanAra yA chetaranAra vyakti prati paNa teo sahiSNutA ane karuNA dAkhave che. aneka prasaMgomAM A vastu jovA maLe che. dAkhalA tarIke dakSiNa cInanA "qilinamAM sthAnika jAtino khela' yojAyo hato. temAM jovA javA mATenI dAkhala phI ghaNI moMghI hatI. paraMtu potAno jyAM utAro hato te hoTalanA oraDAnI bArImAMthI khurazI para besI e khela joI zakAya tema hatuM. lekhaka lakhe che, "paNa mArA manamAM prazana thayo ke AvI rIte maphata khela jovo te zuM yogya che ? emAM ziSTAcArano bhaMga thAya ane nItiniyamano paNa bhaMga thAya. mitre tarata risepzanisTane phona joDyo. javAba maLyo ke rUmamAMthI khela khuzIthI joI zakAya. khela jovAnA paisA nathI, Dinara ane DrikanA paisA che. bArImAMthI jovAmAM koI nItiniyamano bhaMga nathI." (qilinamAM sthAnika jAtino khela) dakSiNa AphrikAnA "zAhamRganA vADA' joI lekhakane jijJAsA ane AzcaryanI sAthe arerATI paNa thAya che, kAraNa ke "zAhamRganuM sarerAza AyuSya 70-75 varSanuM, paNa traNacAra varSe bharAvadAra zarIranuM thayA pachI bhAgye ja koIne vadhu jIvavA maLe. bALavayamAM ja te katalakhAne pahoMcI gayuM hoya ane te pahelAM pIMchAM kheMcAtAM hoya tyAre lohInI Tasa sAthe eNe keTalI vedanA anubhavI hoya ! ene Doka maraDIne, athavA moDhe kothaLI bharAvIne gUMgaLAvIne, goLIthI vIMdhIne ke zastra vaDe Doka uDAvI daIne mArI nAkhavAmAM Ave tyAre samajadAra zAhamRga potAnuM mota samajI jaIne badhI tAkAtathI kevuM jhUjhatuM, AkaMda karatuM hoya che manuSyane enI niSpharatAnI vAta koNa samajAve ?" (zAhamRganA vADA) arthAt "pAsaporTanI pAMkhe'no A trIjo bhAga, tenA pahelA-bIjA bhAganI jema, jagatanA vividha dezonI prakRti ane saMskRtinI sArI-narasI vividha bAjuono, alapajhalapa paNa surekha ane saMvedya khyAla Ape che. jagatamAM kSobha ane du:khapreraka ghaNuM che, to AnaMda ane sukhaprada evuM paNa ochuM nathI - e te darzAve che. mAnavI ane jagatanI vAstavikatA temAM cAru kalpanA ane sukomaLa saMvedanAthI bhIMjAIne grAhya rUpamAM rajU thaI che. saraLa, madhura, komaLa, indriyasaMvedya, pravAhI, vizada zailImAM, sahaja svAbhAvika lAge te rIte prastuta, vividha pradezo-sthaLo-ghaTanAo-manuSyo-kAryonuM, tAdaza nirUpaNa bhAvakanA mana ane hRdayane sparzI jAya che. te AnaMda ane avabodha-ubhaya yugapada Ape che. lekhaka sAthe pote jagatapravAsa karI rahyo hoya - evo bhAvakane te ahesAsa karAve che. lekhakano "huM" temAM sarvatra dekhAya che, paNa ahaM' kyAMya kaLAtuM nathI. koI premALa, lAgaNIzIla mitranI sAthe, aMtaraMga vAto karatAM, ApaNo AnaMda-ullAsapUrvaka jagatano pravAsa mANI rahyA hoIe tevI ApaNane anubhUti thAya che. mane tethI A pravAsakathA ghaNI gamI che. tamane vAcakone paNa te avazya gamaze, evI mane khAtarI che. zekhaDI, tA.po. peTalAda-388450, tA. 18-2-2004 ji. ANaMda mahAzivarAtrI : vi.saM. 2060 XIII
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________________ anukramaNikA ...... ... ......... . 49 ................ ****** 1. bAlImAM besatuM varSa........ 2. zAhamRganA vADA............... abu dhAbInI sAMja ............ 4. greTa beriyara rIpha.... sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa ... ................. bADuMgano jvALAmukhI - TAMgyubAna parAhu 7. oNslonuM avanavuM ......... 8. bujuburA ........ 9. borobudura ........... 10. makAu .... 11. qilinamAM sthAnika jAtino khela 12. vikToriyA dhodha ............... 13. haMsa paigoDA ........... 14. paoNrTa elijhAbetha.... 15. khATuMma........... 13. TusothI AlTA ............. 17. hAmaraphesTa ............. 18. naoNrtha kepa............. 19. milpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka ........ 20. pherabaeNksanAM nensI homabarga .................. ra1. istaMbula - konTinopala................ pariziSTa - svadeze paribhramaNa ...... khajurAho................. ......................... ..... ************ ................. ................ ................. ..... 142 XIV
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe bhAga trIjo XV
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________________ dIsai vivaha cariaM jANijjai sajjaNa-dujjaNa viseso / appANaM ca kalijjai, ___ hiMDijjai teNa puhavIe / / [pravAsa karavAthI vividha prakAranAM caritro jovAmAM Ave che, sajjana ane durjana vacceno taphAvata samajavAmAM Ave che, temaja AtmAnI zakti khIle che. eTalA mATe pRthvIno pravAsa karavo.] - "dhanyakumAra caritra'- 4 tho pallava XVI
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________________ bAlImAM besatuM varSa pRthvInA pratyeka pradezamAM Rtucakrano navo AMTo eTale navuM besatuM varSa. enI vadhAmaNInI paraMparAmAM prajAbhede vaividhya rahevAnuM. emAM sAmAjika, dhArmika ityAdi mAnyatAo paNa saMlagna hovAnI. inDoneziyAnA bAlI TApumAM nUtana varSanI evI anokhI rIte ujavaNI thAya che ke tenI vAta sAMbhaLIne Azcaryacakita thavAya. koI ajANyo mANasa kahe to tarata te mAnyAmAM na Ave. vastuta: samagra vizvamAM AvI gauravazALI paraMparA anyatra kyAMya nathI. bhAratIya hiMdu saMskRtinA avazeSarUpe tyAM jaLavAI rahelI A prAcIna paraMparA kharekhara abhimAna levA jevI che. prAcIna samayamAM bhAratIya saMskRti hiMdI mahAsAgaramAM zrIlaMkA, brahmadeza, siyAma (thAilenDa), malAyA, jAvA, sumAtrA, bAlI vagere dezo sudhI phelAyelI hatI. e dezono bhArata sAtheno vyavahAra rAmAyaNanI kathA jeTalo prAcIna che ema kahI zakAya. "bAlI' zabda rAmAyaNamAM AvatA sugrIvanA bhAI "vAlI' uparathI Avyo hovAnuM manAya che. (bali arthAtu naivedya uparathI paNa "bAlI' zabda vyutpanna karAya che.) "bAlI eTale hajAra hiMdu maMdirono deza', bAlI eTale "tejomaya svargIya dviIpa', bAlI eTale "vizvanuM prabhAta" - ema judI judI rIte bAlIne oLakhAvavAmAM Ave che. cotarapha samudrataTa, vacce DuMgaro, jvALAmukhIo, DAMgaranAM khetaro, nadIo, saMtoSakAraka varasAda, bAre mAsa hariyALI ityAdine kAraNe bAlInuM naisargika saundarya nayanaramya che. bIjI bAju bAlInAM nRtya, saMgIta, zilpakaLA ityAdi suvidita che. bAlImAM Aje paNa rAmAyaNanI kathAno graMtha "serirAma' vaMcAya che ane enA AdhAre nATaka, nRtya vagere bhajavAya che. emAM vAnaronuM nRtya "kanjaka' (kecaka) suprasiddha che. madhyayugamAM musalamAno malAyAmAMthI sumAtrA, jAvA tarapha AgaLa vadhatA gayA tema tema hiMduo khasatA gayA ane chevaTe vizALa bAlI TApumAM sthira thayA. hajAreka varSa pahelAM A badhA pradezomAM bauddha dharmano paNa sAro pracAra thayo hato, paNa pachI te bahu Takyo nahi.
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 savAbe hajAra corasa mAIlamAM vaselA bAlInI Azare pAMtrIsa lAkhanI vastImAM paMcANuM TakAthI vadhu loko hiMdu che, bAkInA musalamAna, khristI ke bauddhadharmI loko mukhyatve becAra moTAM zaheromAM che. bAlImAM zaka saMvata, caitrI paMcAMga cAle che. e pramANe caitra suda ekame tyAM navuM varSa bese che. phAgaNa vada amAsa e tyAM divALInA jevo divasa che, paNa te thoDo judI rIte UjavAya che. ame jyAre bAlInA pravAsanuM Ayojana karyuM tyAre te tArIkha pramANe karyuM hatuM, paraMtu amane khabara nahi ke tyAM vacce caitrI paDavAno divasa, navA varSanI rajAnA divasa tarIke UjavAze. amane eTalI khabara maLI hatI ke vacce eka divasa silent day - zAntino divasa raheze. ame bAlInA erapaoNrTa DenapAsAramAM UtaryA tyAre amArA yajamAna yuvAMga sumAtra amane levA AvyA hatA. amAro utAro pAsenA phutA (FUTA) nagaranI eka paMcatAraka hoTelamAM hato. bAlInI vAta nIkaLatAM yuvAMge kahyuM, 'bAlImAM amArI sarakAra sAMskRtika jALavaNI mATe sabhAna che. moTA pahoLA rastAo, vAhanonI bhAre bhIDa, ghoMghATamaya avarajavara, uttuMga makAno, moTA moTA udyogo, moTI moTI hoTelo ityAdi vaDe duniyAmAM keTalAMka nagarone Adhunika banAvAya che. emAM samRddhi chalakAya che, paNa prajAnI vaiyaktika sAMskRtika vizeSatA osarI jAya che. amArA bAlImAM evI ronakane maryAdita rAkhavAmAM AvI che. ahIM rastAo bahu pahoLA nathI thavA dIdhA. raheThANonAM makAno beThA ghATanAM che. koIkamAM ja upara mALa levAyo haze. ahIM paMcatAraka hoTelone vadhumAM vadhu cAra mALa bAMdhavAnI paravAnagI apAya che.' vaLI yuvAMge kahyuM, 'bAlImAM atyAre 'nyupi'(Nyepi)nA utsavanI taDAmAra taiyArIo cAlI rahI che. 'nyupi' eTale navuM varSa, 'hari rAyA' eTale moTo utsava. tamane 'hari rAyA nyupi'nAM baoNrDa Thera Thera jovA maLaze.' hoTelamAM dAkhala thatAM ja laoNbImAM kendrasthAne eka moTuM vikarALa pUtaLuM hatuM. jANavA maLyuM ke cepinA utsava mATe A pUtaLuM hamaNAM mUkavAmAM AvyuM che. e daitya athavA asuranuM pUtaLuM che. aniSTa tattvanuM e pratIka che. ene ahIM loko 'ogoha ogoha' kahe che. asuranI bhAratIya hiMdu vibhAvanA ahIM bAlImAM paNa e ja pramANe jovA maLe che. moDhuM khulluM hoya, thoDA moTA tIkSNa dAMta bahAra AvyA hoya, moTI moTI lAlacoLa AMkho hoya, cAra hAtha hoya ane hAthamAM zastra hoya, eka paga upADyo hoya evI bhayaMkara Akramaka AkRti kAgaLa, lAkaDAM vageremAMthI banAvavAmAM Ave che ane eno raMga paNa evo ja ghero rAkhavAmAM Ave che. ATha dasa ke bAreka phUTanAM AvAM bihAmaNAM pUtaLAM AkhA bAlImAM dareka gAma ke zahe2mAM coka
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________________ bAlImAM besatuM varSa AgaLa rAkhavAmAM Ave che, kyAMka to ekasAthe betraNa 'ogoha' goThavavAmAM AvyA hoya che. nagaro vacce 'ogoha'nI spardhA thAya che. ane sArAmAM sArA 'ogoha'ne nirNAyako inAma Ape che. nAnA chokarAo paNa potAno judo nAno 'ogoha' banAve che. amAsanI bapo2thI samagra bAlImAM Thera Thera 'ogoha ogoha'nuM saraghasa nIkaLe che. jADA vAMsanA pAMca-cha UbhA ane ADA dAMDAnI 'ThAThaDI' upara ogohane Ubho goThavavAmAM Ave che. gAmanA pacIseka puruSo ene UMcakIne cAle che. keTalAka mANaso AgaLa mazAla laIne nIkaLe che ane nRtya karatA jAya che. loko DholanagArAM vagADe, ghaMTanAda kare, moTA moTA pokAro kare, zakya teTalo vadhu avAja asurane bivaDAvIne bhagADavA mATe kare che. ema karatAM karatAM teo ogohane gAma bahAra nadIkinAre ke samudrakinAre laI jAya che. tyAM 'ogoha'nI dahanakriyA thAya che, sUryAsta thatAM pahelAM daityane bALavAmAM Ave che. navuM varSa AvatAM pahelAM aniSTa tattvane vidAya ApavAmAM Ave che. tyAra pachI puruSo snAna karI, zuddha thaIne nagaramAM vAjategAjate pAchA phare che. ApaNe tyAM dazerAnA divase jema rAvaNanA pUtaLAne bALavAmAM Ave che tema ahIM navA varSanA Agamana pUrve aniSTa tattvane vidAya ApavAnA pratIka tarIke seMkaDo 'ogoha'ne bALavAmAM Ave che. yuvAMge kahyuM ke 'nyupinA parva pahelAM 'melAsti' nAmanI dharmakriyA karavAmAM Ave che. emAM loko sarvazaktimAna IzvaranI pUjA-arcanA, stuti vagere karIne, devadevIonI mUrtio laIne zobhAyAtrAmAM nIkaLe che. dareka gAmanA cokamAM pUjAvidhi thAya che, naivedya dharAya che. pachI maMdiranAM devadevInI mUrtio tathA upakaraNone moTI pAlakhImAM laI jaIne nadI ke samudranA pANImAM zuddha karAya che, kAraNa ke samudranA (jalanA) devatA varuNa che ane varuNa te zivanA avatAra che ema ahIM manAya che, varuNadeva badhAM aniSTa tattvone nirmULa kare che.' hoTelamAM asuranA vikarALa pUtaLAnI bAjumAM baoNrDa upara moTA akSare chApIne nyupi vizenI mAhitI tathA e divase hoTelamAM zuM zuM baMdha raheze e vizenI sUcanAo lakhavAmAM AvI hatI. ame rUmamAM sAmAna mUkI svastha thaI laoNbImAM AvyA. baoNrDanI vigato samajAvatAM yuvAMge kahyuM, 'bAlIvAsI hiMduo pAMca prakAranA yajJamAM mAne che: devayajJa, manuSyayajJa, RSiyajJa, pitRyajJa ane bhUtayajJa. nyupinA divasomAM mukhyatve bhUtayajJa thAya che. nyupinA utsava mATe je cAra mukhya niyamo pALavAmAM Ave che te A pramANe che :
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________________ -- - -- pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 (1) AmATI lelugAna (loluhAna) - eTale gharanI bahAra na javuM. avarajavara na karavI. (2) AmATI kAryA - eTale koI kArya karavuM nahi. nokarIdhaMdho karavA nahi. haLavAbhaLavAnAM vyAvahArika kAryo na karavAM. gharamAM paNa anivArya hoya teTalI ja pravRtti karavI. te divase maMdire na jatAM gharamAM ja prArthanA-bhakti karI levI. (3) AmATI ageni (agni) - eTale agni pragaTAvavo nahi. gharamAM rasoI vagere mATe agni saLagAvavo nahi. vastuta: te divase rasoI karavI nahi. mINabattI saLagAvavI nahi. telano dIvo karavo nahi. TaoNrca ke lAiTa vAparavI nahi. vIjaLIthI cAlatAM koI sAdhano vAparavAM nahi. nAnAM bALako ke vRddha-azakta mATe khAvAnuM anivArya hoya to Agale divase banAvI levAnuM, zakya hoya tyAM sudhI upavAsa karavAno. (4) AmATI lolAMgavAna - eTale AnaMdapramodanI koI pravRtti karavI nahi. TI. vI. na javAya, pAnAM na ramAya, dArU na pivAya, gIta-nRtyAdi na thAya, vAjiMtra na vagADAya. brahmacaryanuM pAlana karavAnuM.' "A badhA to bahu kaDaka niyamo kahevAya. zuM badhA enuM barAbara pAlana kare ?' ame prazna karyo. bilakula; khAvAnI bAbatamAM jenAthI na rahevAya te chUTa le, paNa evA loko ochA, ahIM evA paNa loko che ke je chatrIsa kalAka khAya nahi eTaluM ja nahi, pANI sudhdhAM pIe nahi. avarajavaranI bAbatamAM pahelAM eraporTa, baMdaro ane hoTelone chUTa apAtI hatI, paraMtu pravAsIone lAvavA - laI javAmAM Akho divasa avarajavara rahetI. e nimitte sTAphanA ane bIjA mANasone paNa chUTa ApavI paDatI. keTalAka chUTa laI letA. jopi jevuM lAge nahi. have lagabhaga chatrIsa kalAka eraporTa ane baMdaro sadaMtara baMdha rahe che. hoTelonI bahAra koI jaI zake nahi. hoTelomAM rUma sivAya bIjI badhI lAiTa baMdha rAkhavI paDe. have to erapaoNrTa ane hoTelonA karmacArIo paNa jopimAM bhAga laI zake che.' ATalo lAMbo vakhata loko gharamAM kare zuM ? kaMTALI na jAya ?' nA. eTalo samaya loko gharamAM paNa saMpUrNa mauna pALe. prabhunuM dhyAna dhare. manana-ciMtana kare. potAnA doSonuM avalokana kare. kAraNa vagara gharamAM UThabesa ke avarajavara na kare. anivArya hoya to izArAthI kAma kare. ghaNuM ja kaThina che, paNa loko pUrI zraddhApUrvaka ene mATe manathI taiyAra hoya che. eka kare eTale bIjA kare. ema paraspara prabhAva paDe che. chUTa lenAranI TIkA - niMdA thAya che. keTalAka gharamAM thoDI chUTa letA haze, paNa gharanI bahAra to koI ja na nIkaLe.'
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________________ 5 bAlImAM besatuM varSa nyupinuM AvuM varNana sAMbhaLI ame e divasanI utsukatApUrvaka rAha jovA lAgyA. amArI hoTelanA ghaNA pravAsIo vidAya thavA lAgyA. chatrIsa kalAka hoTelamAM purAI rahevuM paDe evuM keTalAkane na game ke na posAya, paraMtu amArI jema keTalAka pravAsIo nyupi mATe ja rokAyA hatA. ame nyupino divasa Ave te pahelAM bAlImAM AsapAsanA pradezomAM pharyA, vividha prakAranAM nRtyo joyAM, maMdiromAM darzana karyAM. bAlIe potAnA sAMskRtika vArasAne sArI rIte jALavI rAkhyo che. e badhAMno vigate abhyAsa karavo hoya to ghaNo samaya joIe. bAlInAM judAM judAM nagaromAM pharatAM enI keTalIka lAkSaNikatAo nihALavA maLI. thoDe thoDe aMtare maMdira to hoya ja : nyupinA divasomAM ghera ghera peMjore(Penjore)nI racanA karavAmAM AvI hatI. peMjore eTale vAMsanI banAvelI AkRti. dareka gharanA AMgaNAmAM jamInamAM khADo khodIne emAM pAMdaDIo sAtheno vAMsano sUko dAMDo Ubho karavAmAM Ave che. eno uparano pAtaLo cheDo DhaLelo hovo joIe. DhaLavAne kAraNe vAMsanI AkRti parvata jevI dekhAya. e meru parvata che. bAlIvAsIo meru parvatane pavitra mAne che. parvanA divasomAM ghera ghera AvI peMjorenI racanA jovA maLe. keTaleka ThekANe UMcA raMgaberaMgI peMjore paNa banAvavAmAM Ave che. vAMsanA dAMDAmAM vacce gokhalA jevI eka AkRti vAMsanI cIpamAMthI banAvavAmAM Ave che. emAM devadevIne artharUpe phUla, phaLa vagere dharAvAya che. amAsanA divase amArI icchA uttara dizAmAM dUra Avelo kiMtAmanIno jvALAmukhI ane tenI pAse AveluM sarovara jovAnI hatI. amArA DrAivare kahyuM, 'bapore cAra vAgatAM sudhImAM ApaNe pAchA AvI javuM joIe. pachI loko rastA upara ja pUjAvidhi karavA besI jaze. te vakhate tyAMthI gADI pasAra thavA nahi de.' DrAivaranI bhalAmaNa pramANe ame savAre nIkaLI gayA. khAssuM aMtara hatuM. Akhe raste nAnAMmoTAM gAmo AvatAM hatAM. phaLadrupa pradeza ane gAmaDAMonA naisargika vAtAvaraNanI maheka anubhavAtI hatI. prajA garIba paNa mAyALu hatI. cIjavastuo vecavAvALA ka2gare ane jaladI pIcho choDe nahi. eTale vastunI jarUra na hoya to paNa khaTAvavAnuM mana thAya. ame tiAmanIthI pAchA pharatA hatA tyAM meMgavI nAmanuM gAma AvyuM. amArI gADI UbhI rahI gaI. AgaLa traNa gADI hatI. DrAivare UtarIne tapAsa karIne kahyuM, 'A lokoe be miniTa pahelAM ja rasto baMdha karI dIdho che. ahIM bahu vahelI pUjAvidhi cAlu karI che. have eka kalAka thobhavuM paDaze. chUTako nathI.' 'jo rAha jovAnI ja hoya to pachI gADImAM besI rahevA karatAM A lokonI
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________________ pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 pUjAvidhi kema na joIe ?' ame badhA gADImAMthI UtarIne rastAnI eka bAjue UbhA rahI gayA. - eka cheDe "ogoha goha'nAM lAla, lIlo ane vAdaLI ema gherA raMganAM traNa moTAM pUtaLAM hatAM. bIje cheDe devadevIonuM maMdira hatuM. gAmamAMthI mahilAo ane puruSo sarasa navAM vastro paherIne AvI rahyAM hatAM. puruSoe sapheda aMgarakhuM, kesarI athavA sapheda "saroMga" (kamare paheravAnuM luMgI jevuM vastro paheryA hatAM. mAthe sapheda paTTo bAMdhyo hato. badhA ughADe page hatA. teo rastAnI eka bAju traNa hAramAM goThavAyA. bIjI bAju mahilAoe AchA pILA raMganuM uparanuM vastra, kesarI raMganuM saroMga paheryuM hatuM ane kamare raMgIna paTTo bAMdhyo hato. mahilAoe potAne mastake rAkhelo naivedyano karaMDiyo maMdira pAse hArabaMdha goThavyo. mahilAo ane puruSonI vacce dharmagurunI UMcI beThaka hatI. dharmagurue mAthe mugaTa dhAraNa karyo hato. naivedyanA vAMsanA TopalAmAM sapharajana, saMtarAM vagere phaLo vartuLAkAre hAranI upara hAra ema goThavyAM hatAM. ATalAM badhAM phaLa paDI na jAya e mATe aMdarathI aNIdAra saLI bharAvIne te joDI rAkhavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. phaLonI hAranI Toca upara vAMsanI cholelI pAtaLI paTTIonI paMkhA jevI kalAtmaka racanA karavAmAM AvI hatI. darekanA naivedya-karaMDakanuM suzobhana juduM juduM hatuM. jethI ATalAM badhAM ekasarakhAM karaMDakamAM dareka potAnuM naivedya oLakhI zake. vaeNpinA A utsavamAM badhI ja sAmagrI potAnAM khetara-vADImAMthI ANelI hoya eTale kharcALa kazuM ja nahi. bhagavAnanI mUrtinI sanmukha uccAsane beThelA dharmagurue pUjAvidhi cAlu karI. maMtroccAra thayA. naivedya dharAvAyAM. thoDI vAra pachI eka pAtramAM jaLa lAvavAmAM AvyuM. dharmagurue maMtro bhaNIne e jaLa (tIrtha) potAnA sahAyaka paMDitane ApyuM. e jaLamAM eka saLI sAthe bAMdhelI vAMsanI pAMdaDIo boLIboLIne paMDite prathama puruSo upara ane pachI mahilAo upara chaMTakAva karyo. dharmagurunA AzIrvAda jhIlavA mATe chaMTakAva thAya tyAre saue potAnI baMne khullI hatheLI khabhA pAse rAkhI hatI. devadevIone prasanna karavAnI bIjI keTalIka vidhi thaI. vidhi pUrNa thatAM mahilAoe eka pachI eka UbhA thaI potAnAM naivedya-karaMDaka sAthe lIdhAM ane ghara tarapha prayANa karyuM. puruSo paNa UbhA thayA, have puruSonuM kAma gohane bALavA laI javAnuM hatuM. A rIte cepinI dharmavidhi amane pratyakSa jovA maLI. svayaMsevakoe rasto khullo karyo eTale amArI gADI AgaLa vadhI. rastAmAM sAMgeha nAmanA sthaLe ame rokAyA. ahIM jaMgalanI vacce eka prAcIna maMdira che. tyAM aneka vAMdarA hovAthI enuM nAma ja "vAnara maMdira' (Monkey Temple) paDI gayuM che. tyAM vAMdarA uparAMta vRkSa upara UMdhe mAthe laTakatI vAgoLa paNa ghaNI che. TikiTa
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________________ bAlImAM besatuM varSa laI ame cogAnanA pravezadvAramAM dAkhala thayA. amArI sAthe eka karmacArI chokarI AvI, khAsa to eTalA mATe ke vAMdarAo amane satAve nahi. vAMdarAne khavaDAvavA ame biskiTa lIdhAM. mArA mitrone vAMdarA pAse jatAM Dara lAgato hato. meM eka pachI eka biskiTa khavaDAvavA cAlu karyA. ApaNe jamaNA hAthamAM biskiTa dharIe eTale vAMdaro pAse AvIne sau pahelAM ApaNo DAbo hAtha pakaDI rAkhe, rakhene ApaNe chaTakI jaIe ke bIjuM kazuM ene karIe evI zaMkAthI. pachI jamaNA hAthamAMthI biskiTa laIne khAya. vAMdarA bahu catura ane jabarA hoya che. vizvAsa bese to premALa hoya che. enI AMgaLIono sparza mulAyama che ke tIkSNa nahorano che enA parathI enA saMvedananI khAtarI thAya che. ame cAlatA hatA tevAmAM amArAthI thoDe AgaLa cAlatI eka yuropiyana yuvatInA khabhA upara vAMdaro pAchaLathI acAnaka kUdIne caDI beTho. yuvatI gabharAIne cIsAcIsa karatI doDavA lAgI, paNa vAMdaro thoDo nIce Utare ? enI sAthe cAlatI karmacArI chokarIe khAvAnuM ApIne vAMdarAne nIce utAryo. meM mArI pAsenAM badhAM biskiTa vAMdarAone khavaDAvI dIdhAM. ame maMdira tarapha AgaLa cAlatA hatA tyAM acAnaka pAchaLathI mArA khabhA upara paNa eka moTo vAMdaro caDI beTho. huM gabharAyo nahi, paNa AvI ghaTanA ociMtI bane eTale stabdha thaI javAya. have vAMdarAne nIce kevI rIte utAravo ? pakaDIne utAravA jatAM rakhene baTakuM bhare ke nahora mAre tyAM to mArI sAthe cAlatI chokarIe kahyuM, "sara, sara, beya hatheLI pahoLI khullI karI nAkho.' meM beya hatheLI khullI karI nAkhI ke tarata vAMdaro ApoApa nIce UtarI gayo. chokarIe samajAvyuM ke jyAM sudhI vAMdarAne ema lAge ke ApaNI pAse khAvAnuM che tyAM sudhI pIcho na choDe. na Apo to khabhA para caDI jAya. paNa beya hatheLI khullI batAvo to samajI jAya ke khAvAnuM khalAsa thaI gayuM che, eTale cAlyo jAya, maMdiranAM darzana karI sAMje cAreka vAgye ame amArI hoTela para pAchA AvI gayA. tyAM laoNbImAM gherA gulAbI raMganAM ekasarakhAM vastra paherIne ghaNA mANaso ekatra thayA hatA. keTalAka paricita caherA jotAM ja khabara paDI ke A to badhA hoTelanA ja karmacArIo che. laoNbImAM kendrasthAne rAkhavAmAM AvelA "ogohane utArIne, vAMsaDA para goThavIne, gAtAM-nAcatAM teo bahAra laI gayA. emanA gayA pachI hoTelamAM ekadama zAnti prasarI gaI, jANe bolakaNA mANasane mUMgA besavAno vakhata Avyo. ame rUmamAM besI bhojana karIne pAchA nIce UtaryA. aMdhAruM thavA AvyuM hatuM. rastA paranI badhI avarajavara baMdha thaI gaI. badhuM sUmasAma lAgavA mAMDyuM. ame
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________________ pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 hoTelanA jhAMpe jaI baMne bAjunI zerIomAM najara nAkhI to badhuM ja baMdha hatuM. cepine utsavamAM koI bArIbAraNAM ughADAM na rAkhe. evAmAM eka sAikala upara koI svayaMsevaka pasAra thayo. eNe amane aMdara cAlyA javA mATe hAthathI vinayapUrvaka izAro karyo. ene mAna ApavA ame tarata aMdara AvI gayA. - have aMdhAruM vadhatuM jatuM hatuM. hoTelamAM laoNbI, peseja vageremAM kyAMya lAiTa nahotI. rUmamAM lAiTanI chUTa hatI, paNa paDadA rAkhavA paDe ke jethI jarA paNa prakAza bahAra na jAya. ame rUmamAM besI ArAma karyo. amAsanI aMdhArI rAta hatI. AvA nibiDa aMdhakAramAM bAlIno vizALa dvIpa vilIna thaI gayo. AkhA divasanA pravAsano thAka hato eTale ame paNa vahelA nidrAdhIna thayA. - savAre bAlImAM besatA varasanuM prabhAta UgyuM. paNa bAlIe azabda svAgata sivAya kazuM ja karavAnuM nahotuM. cArebAju mAtra saghana nIravatA hatI. evI nIravatA to jiMdagImAM kyAreya anubhavI nathI. saMcArabaMdhI (karaphyu) vakhate paNa nahi. bAlI TApunA savAbe hajAra corasa mAIlanA vistAramAM nAnAMmoTAM ekasothI vadhu gAmanagaramAM Azare trIsa lAkha jeTalA loko svecchAe mauna, zAnti ane avarajavara vagaranA divasanuM ane caitrI pratipadAnI aMdhakAramaya ni:zabda rAtrinuM parva saMyama, zista, niSThA ane zraddhAthI Ujave e ApaNI dharatI paranI advitIya ghaTanA gaNAya, ame paNa hoTelanI rUmamAM e divasa sAmAyika, jApa, dhyAnamAM pasAra karyo. rAtre bAlkanImAMthI bahAra joyuM to nibiDa tamistranA AvaraNa heThaLa bAlInuM caitanya ullAsathI dhabakI rahyuM hatuM. mAtra prakAzita thatAM AkAzanA tArA nakSatro-madhA, phAlganI, citrA, vizAkhA, vagere. bAlImAM cepi pachIno bIjo divasa "labuha vrata' tarIke UjavAya che. loko navA varSa mATe paraspara abhivAdana kare che ane AgalA varSanA potAnA doSo mATe kSamAyAcanA karI vizuddha thaI navA varSamAM praveza kare che. bhAratIya saMskRtinuM e lakSaNa vizvazAMti mATe bAlIno nyapi eTale ke navA varSano utsava saune mATe preraka, bodhaka ane anukaraNIya che.
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________________ zAhamRganA vADA prANIbAgamAM ekaladokala zAhamRga jovuM e eka anubhava che ane khullAmAM eka ja vistAramAM ekasAthe seMkaDo-hajAro zAhamRga jovAM e bIjo anubhava che. Avo anubhava ApaNane maLe che dakSiNa AphrikAnA dakSiNa cheDAnA hiMdI mahAsAgara pAse AvelA vistAromAM. jeNe jiMdagImAM zAhamRga joyuM na hoya te to ekasAthe ATalAM badhAM zAhamRgo joIne acaMbAmAM ja paDI jAya. vizvanuM moTAmAM moTuM pakSI hovuM ane chatAM AkAzamAM UMce UDavAnI sarvathA azakti hovI e prakRtino kevo krUra abhizApa kahevAya ! eTale ja zAhamRganA bhAgyamAM to mANasanA hAthe maravAnuM ja lakhAyuM che. ame dakSiNa AphrikAmAM porTa elijhAbethathI vAsnA nagaramAM rAta rokAIne bIje divase savAre jyaoNrja nagara tarapha prayANa karyuM. oTanikavAno ghATa pasAra karI ame AuTalUna (Oudtshoorn) pahoMcyA. UMcAnIcA DuMgarAo ane medAnI vistAro vaTAvatI amArI basa pasAra thaI rahI hatI. thoDI vAramAM zAhamRganA vADAo (Ostrich Farms) dekhAvA lAgyA. basa UMcI jagyAe hoya tyAre to cArebAju aneka vADAomAM zAhamRganAM ToLeToLAM pharatAM-caratAM (caNatAM) jovA maLe. gherA pILA ke badAmI raMganI dharatImAM kALAM kALAM zAhamRga tarata najare paDyA vagara rahe nahi. duniyAmAM bIje kyAMya ATalAM badhAM zAhamRga nathI. eTale ja AuTazrnane The Ostrich Capital of the World kahevAmAM Ave che. ahIM ATalAM badhAM zAhamRga che, kAraNa ke A pradezanAM havApANI ane dharatI zAhamRganA astitva mATe anukULa che e to kharuM ja, paraMtu mahattvanuM kAraNa e che ke vyAvasAyika dhoraNe zAhamRgane ahIM ucheravAmAM Ave che. AkAzamAM UDatA paMkhI upara koIno mAlikIhaka hoto nathI, paNa jamIna para cAlanArAM gAya, bheMsa, baLada, bakarInI jema zAhamRga para mAlikIhaka dharAvI zakAya che, kAraNa ke te page cAlanAra pakSI che. zAhamRganA A vistAramAM moTAM ghaTAdAra vRkSo ke gIca jhADI khAsa nathI. ghaNuMkharuM khullAM retALa khetaro che. emAM khetI nathI karAtI, paNa zAhamRgone pUravA mATenA vADAo banAvavAmAM AvyA che. vAMsaDA athavA lAkaDAnI paTTI vaDe ke tAra vaDe be vADA vacce karavAmAM AvelI pAMca-cha phUTa UMcI vADa ahIM jovA maLe che ke jethI
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________________ 10 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 eka vADAnuM zAhamRga bIjA vADAmAM cAlyuM na jAya. AvA potapotAnI mAlikInA hArabaMdha vADAo dUra dUra sudhI dekhAya che. pakSIomAM zAhamRganI eka AgavI lAkSaNika mudrA che. tenI TUMkI pAMkho ane savAso-doDhaso kilogrAma jeTaluM bhAre bharAvadAra zarIra tene UDavA mATe azakta banAve che. khAssA lAMbA paga ane atizaya lAMbI, pAipa jevI pAtaLI DokanI lAkSaNikatA dharAvatA sAta-ATha phUTa UMcA zAhamRganI sAme ApaNe UbhA hoIe to enI najara sAthe najara meLavavA ApaNe mAthuM UMcuM karavuM paDe. zAhamRga ApaNI sAme nIcI najare joI zake. enA zarIra paranA ane pUMchaDInAM moTAM lAMbAM kALAM pIMchAM cheDe thoDAM zveta hovAne kAraNe vadhu AkarSaka lAge che. nara karatAM mAdA kadamAM thoDI nIcI ane bhUkharA kALA raMganI hoya che. doDhabe varSanI uMmare mAdA pukhta thaI IMDAM mUkavA lAge che. pramANano abhAva e zAhamRganuM eka AgavuM lakSaNa che. enA zarIranA pramANamAM enI pAMkho nAnI che. enA be AMgaLIvALA paganA pramANamAM enI Doka atizaya lAMbI che. enA DokanA pramANamAM enuM moDhuM bahu nAnuM che. enA moDhAnA pramANamAM enI AMkho ghaNI moTI che. enI AkRtinA pramANamAM enI cAMca sAva TUMkI che. eTale ja pakSI tarIke zAhamRga alaga tarI Ave che. amane zAhamRga mATenA eka kendramAM laI javAmAM AvyA. tyAM gorA gAIDa yuvake zAhamRga vize rasika mAhitI ApI. taDako ane sUkI havAmAM, retALa athavA ghAsiyA jamInamAM rahenAra, ghAsa, pAMdaDAM, biyAM vagere khAnAra, mukhyatve vanaspatyAhArI, paNa jarUra paDe to jIvaDAM paNa khAnAra AvaDuM moTuM zAhamRga bhUmadhya samudranI AsapAsanA pradezanuM pakSI che. prAcIna samayamAM ijiptamAM te satya ane nyAyanI devInA pratIka tarIke sthAna pAmyuM hatuM. ijipta ane arebiyAnuM pakSI kALakrame dakSiNa AphrikA sudhI pahoMcI gayuM. sattaramI-aDhAramI sadImAM gorA loko AphrikA, mADAgAskara, moreziyasa, sezansa vagere pradezomAM pharI vaLyA ane AhAra mATe tathA zokhane khAtara pazupakSIono zikAra karatA rahyA. moreziyasamAM DoDo pakSIno zikAra karI karIne enI jAtinuM sadaMtara nikaMdana kADhI nAkhyuM; enuM astitva ja nAmazeSa karI nAkhyuM. tevI rIte dakSiNa AphrikAmAM teoe zAhamRgane mAravAnuM cAlu karyuM hatuM. gaNyAMgAThyAM zAhamRga rahyAM hatAM. paNa I. sa. 1838mAM, A sthitimAM palaTo Avyo. ahIM AvIne vaselA, vepAranI sUkSma dRSTivALA arthanipuNa yahUdIone jaNAyuM ke sahelAIthI mArI nAkhI zakAya evA bharacaka mAMsa ane AkarSaka pIMchAMvALA A pakSIne to ucheravuM joIe. teoe vADA bAMdhI zAhamRgane ucheravAnuM cAlu karyuM.
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________________ zAhamRganA vADA temano maMtra banyo : GET RICH WITH OST-RICh. eka nara zAhamRga sAthe traNacAra mAdA hoya ane dareka mAdA AMtare divase eka IMDuM mUke ema paMdaravIsa varSa sudhI pratyeka RtumAM paMdaravIsathI vadhu IMDAM mUke. eTale zAhamRganI vastI to jhaDapathI vadhavA lAgI. zAhamRganAM AkarSaka pIMchAM heTamAM khosavAmAM tathA vibhinna prakAranA paheravezamAM vaparAvA lAgyAM. ogaNIsamI sadImAM to yuropamAM zAhamRganAM pIMchAMnI phezana cAlI. yahUdIone ekalAM pIMchAMmAMthI ja aDhaLaka kamANI thavA lAgI. cAmaDAM ane mAMsamAMthI kamANI thatI te to vadhArAnI. thoDA dAyakAmAM zAhamRganA vADAo vadhatA gayA ane enI vastI lAkhonA AMkaDA vaTAvatI gaI. pachI to yahUdIo uparAMta bIjAo paNa emAM joDAyA ane zAhamRga dakSiNa AphrikAnA arthataMtranI eka mahattvanI cIjavastu (kaoNmoDiTI) banI gayuM. daramiyAna aljiriyA, phrAnsa, oNsTreliyA, amerikA, philipAinsa vagere ghaNA dezomAM zAhamRgano uchera thavA lAgyo. amArA gAiDe vecANa kendramAM laI jaI zAhamRgamAMthI banAvelI bhAtabhAtanI vastuo batAvI. te vasAvavAno amane zokha nahoto, pachI kharIdavAnI to icchA kyAMthI hoya ? gAiDe amane IMDAM batAvyAM. zAhamRganAM IMDAM suzobhananI vastu tarIke vaparAya che. zveta ke AchA pILA raMganuM cha iMca jeTaluM moTuM IMDuM doDha kilogrAma jeTalA vajanavALuM hoya che. hAthamAM letAM ja te bhAre lAgyuM. eka nAnuM chidra pADI, temAMthI pravAhI kADhI nAkhI, sugaMdhI dravya temAM bharI daIne tene vecavAmAM Ave che. zokhIno laI jAya che. zAhamRganuM IMDuM eTaluM majabUta hoya che ke mANasa enA upara Ubho rahe to paNa na bhAMge. mAdA retImAM khADo karI IMDAM mUke che. divase mAdA ane rAtre nara zAhamRga IMDAMnuM sevana kare che. jarUra paDe to IMDAMne retIthI DhAMkI de che. tyAra pachI amane zAhamRganA vADAomAM pheravavAmAM AvyA. zAhamRga pacIsa-pacAsanA ToLAmAM rahenAruM pakSI che. AkhuM ToLuM AmathI tema doDe. dareka vADAno rakhevALa hoya. te emane mATe khorAka-pANInI vyavasthA saMbhALe, bIjI dekharekha rAkhe tathA zAhamRgane amuka prakAranI tAlIma paNa Ape. kALA, UMcA, kadAvara habasI rakhevALo emanA lIlA raMganAM zarTa, penTa ane TopInA yuniphaoNrmathI tarata judA dekhAI Ave. teMo je rIte zAhamRgo sAthe gela karatA hatA te jotAM thayuM ke rAtadivasa sAthe rahevAne kAraNe A pakSIo sAthe temane mAyA baMdhAI gaI che. ame keTalAMka zAhamRganI pAse jaIne emane paMpALyAM ane khAvAnuM khavarAvyuM. zAhamRga samajadAra pakSI che. eka zAhamRga amArI sAme Tagara Tagara jotuM hatuM. enI moTI AMkhomAM enA AnaMdano bhAva vAMcI zakAto hato. eka vADAmAM amane zAhamRganI doDa spardhA batAvavAmAM AvI. laMbavartuLa AkAranI ghaNI lAMbI sAMkaDI vADa evI rIte karavAmAM AvI che ke doDIne zAhamRga
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________________ 12 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 pAchAM e ja sthaLe Ave. cAra Aphrikana savAro potapotAnAM zAhamRga para goThavAI gayA. sisoTI vAgatAM te evAM doDyAM ke chaThTha thaI jaIe. ghaDIkamAM to bIjI bAjuthI te badhAM pAchAM tyAM AvI pahoMcyAM. spardhAnI jANe temane samaja paDatI hoya evo emanA caherA parano bhAva hato. zAhamRgane be paga che, paNa copagAM prANI karatAM paNa te vadhu jhaDapathI doDI zake che. kalAkanA 40-45 mAIlanI jhaDape doDI zakanAra zAhamRga spardhAmAM ghoDAne paNa harAvI de. chalAMga bharavAmAM enI be pAMkho ene madadarUpa bane che. teja raphtArathI doDavuM hoya tyAre te eka eka DagaluM vIsa-pacIsa phUTanuM bharI zake che. AthI ja jUnA vakhatamAM vAhana tarIke zAhamRgano paNa upayoga thayelo che. jeone zAhamRganI savArIno svAda mANavo hoya teone mATe paNa tyAM vyavasthA hatI. zAhamRga para caDavA mATe UMcAM pagathiyAM banAvyAM hatAM. amArAmAMnA keTalAke e moja paNa mANI. ame vADAo vaccethI pasAra thatA hatA tyAM eka vADAmAM phakta eka ja zAhamRgane joyuM. gAiDane pUchyuM, "AmAM eka ja kema che ?' samajAvuM tamane. ahIM ja UbhA rahejo,' ema kahI gAiDa kyAMka cAlyo. ame jhAMpo kholI vADAmAM dAkhala thayA. bIje cheDe UbheluM zAhamRga khAtAM khAtAM amArI sAme Tagara Tagara jovA lAgyuM. "cAlo, ApaNe ene paNa vahAla karIe' ema koIke kahyuM ane ame zAhamRga tarapha DagalAM mAMDavA jaIe tyAM to gAiDa doDato Avyo. eNe jorathI bUma pADI, "UbhA raho, UbhA raho; jAo nahi.' enA avAjamAM gusso ane gabharATa baMne hatAM. enA hAthamAM eka lAMbo vAMsaDo hato. vAMsaDAnA eka cheDe bAvaLanA zULa jevA aNIdAra lAMbA kAMTAnuM jhUmakhuM hatuM. amArI pAse e AvI pahoMcyo. enI AMkhomAM Thapako vaMcAto hato. e barADyo, "kema vADAmAM dAkhala thayA ? bahAra UbhA rahevA meM kahyuM hatuM ne ?' amane lAgyuM ke, "koInA vADAmAM rajA vagara dAkhala nahi thavAtuM hoya, paNa bhUlamAM dAkhala thaI gayA to temAM zo moTo guno thaI gayo ?' tyAM gAiDa bolyo, tamane khabara che ke tame atyAre keTaluM moTuM jokhama kheDyuM? A mArakaNuM zAhamRga che. eTale ene ahIM ekaluM juduM rAkhyuM che. jo e tamArA para tUTI paDyuM hota to ekAdane lohIluhANa karI nAkhata. kadAca koIno jAna paNa jAya. mAre mAthe keTalI moTI nAmozI Ave ?' cUpa rahevAmAM ja amAre mATe DahApaNa hatuM. meM vAta badalavA pUchuyuM, "A vAMsaDo tame kema lAvyA ?'
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________________ zAhamRganA vADA 13 'e levA ja huM gayo hato. kAMTA bharAvelA A vAMsaDAthI zAhamRgane AduM rAkhI zakAya. kAMTA vAge eTale e AvatuM aTake ane pAchuM bhAge. ahIM vADAnA rakhevALo pAse AvuM jharaDuM hoya. darekane e rAkhavuM paDe. zAhamRgane aMkuzamAM rAkhavAnuM kAma saheluM nathI. kAcApocAne e gAMThe nahi. ApaNA karatAM e UMcuM rahyuM. potAnI lAMbI Doka ane aNIdAra cAMcathI e game tyAM joradAra prahAra karI zake. vaLI enA paga paNa bahu majabUta hoya che. lAta mA2vAmAM te pAvaradhuM che. enI eka lAtathI ApaNane tammara AvI jAya. ApaNe bhoMyabhegA thaI jaIe.' koI ekAda mArakaNuM zAhamRga vIphare tyAre keTaluM krUra thaI zake enI vAto karatAM karatAM ame amArI basa tarapha pAchA vaLyA. basa cAlI ane huM vicAre caDyo. zAhamRganI krUratAnI vAta thaI e sAcI, paNa doDheka saikAthI mAnavajAte zAhamRgane vADAmAM pUrIne je krUratA AcarI che eno nyAya koNa kare ? tyArathI zAhamRganuM svataMtra vicaraNa baMdha thayuM ane vADAnuM jelajIvana enA bhAgyamAM vaNAI gayuM. maryAdita kSetramAM te khAya, pIe ane AnaMda kare, paNa enI puSTatA idanA bakarA jevI banI gaI. zAhamRganuM sarerAza AyuSya 70-75 varSanuM, paNa traNacAra varSe bharAvadAra zarIranuM thayA pachI bhAgye ja koIne vadhu jIvavA maLe. bALavayamAM ja te katalakhAne pahoMcI gayuM hoya ane te pahelAM pIMchAM kheMcAtAM hoya tyAre lohInI Tasaro sAthe eNe keTalI vedanA anubhavI hoya ! ene Doka maraDIne, athavA moDhe kothaLI bharAvIne gUMgaLAvIne, goLIthI vIMdhIne ke zastra vaDe Doka uDAvI daIne mArI nAkhavAmAM Ave tyAre samajadAra zAhamRga potAnuM mota AvyuM che ema samajI jaIne badhI tAkAtathI kevuM jhUjhatuM, AkraMda karatuM hoya che ! manuSyane enI niSThuratAnI vAta koNa samajAve ? zAhamRge sittera-paMcotera varSanuM potAnuM sahaja AyuSya bhogavIne kudaratI motane varavuM hoya to koI sArA prANIbAgamAM javuM joIe. ekaladokala zAhamRgane prANIbAgamAM jovuM e eka anubhava che ane hajAro zAhamRgone vADAmAM jovAM e bIjo anubhava che.
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________________ abu dhAbInI sAMja Adhunika kALamAM acAnaka bhAgyapalaTo thayo hoya evAM nagaromAM siMgApura, dubaI vagerenI jema abu dhAbIne paNa gaNAvI zakAya. cArapAMca dAyakA pahelAM, briTiza zAsanakALa daramiyAna, abu dhAbInA killAnI UMcI UMcI divAlo enI aMdara AvelAM khoraDAMo pratye garva ane tucchakAranI najare jotI hatI. have potAnI AsapAsa UbhAM thayelAM pacIsa-trIsa mALanAM totiMga, ronakadAra hArabaMdha makAno AgaLa vAmaNI lAgatI e dIvAlo zaramathI nIcuM joI joIne jarjarita ke khaMDita thaI gaI che. dharatInA peTALamAMthI UDelA telanA phuvArAe sAudI arebiyAnI jema sAta nAnAM nAnAM rAjyonA banelA saMyukta Araba amIrAta(Emirate)nI paNa sikala badalI nAkhI che. e sAtamAM moTAmAM moTuM rAjya te abu dhAbInuM che. eTale saMyukta Araba amIrAtanuM pATanagara paNa abu dhAbI ja che. cArapAMca dAyakA pahelAM aDhItraNa hajAranI vastIvALA abu dhAbIne choDIne gayelo eno koI nAgarika che atyAre acAnaka pahelI vAra A aDhI-traNa lAkhanI vastIvALA nAnA menahaTTana (nyU yaoNrkanA) jevA abu dhAbIne jue to mAnI na zake ke e potAnuM vatana che. jANe koI svapna joto hoya evuM ene bhAse ! abu dhAbI javAno amAro koI kAryakrama nahoto, paraMtu dubaInA amArA pravAsa daramiyAna amArA mitra dubaInivAsI dharmapremI navInabhAI zAhanI icchA evI hatI ke amAre abu dhAbI avazya javuM joIe ane khAsa to tyAMnI zerATona (Sheraton) hoTela jovI joIe. hoTela jovAnuM vaLI amAre zuM prayojana hoya ? paraMtu enuM kAraNa e hatuM ke navInabhAI varSothI dubaImAM rahe che, suprasiddha enjiniyara che ane Araba amIrAtamAM je keTalIka hoTelo, masjido, makAno vagere emanI kaMpanI dvArA baMdhAyAM che tenI DijhAinamAM emanuM savizeSa yogadAna raheluM che. temAMnI eka te abu dhAbInI prathama naMbaranI hoTela zerATona che. dubaImAM rojeroja milana, goSThi, vyAkhyAna vagerenA amArA kAryakramo goThavAI gayA hatA eTale e rada karIne abu dhAbI javAnI amArI icchA nahotI, paraMtu navInabhAIe savArasAMjanA kAryakramo thoDA AghApAchA karAvIne evI rIte
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________________ abu dhAbInI sAMja 15 rasto kADhyo ane pote ophisamAMthI rajA laI sAthe AvavAnuM vacana ApyuM ke pachI emanA premane vaza thavAnuM amArA mATe anivArya banI gayuM. amAre mATe navI gADI ane hoziyAra DrAivaranI vyavasthA thaI gaI. me mahinAnA unALAno samaya hato paNa A bAju ghara, oNphisa, kAra, sTorsa badhe ja erakanDizana pharajiyAta che. vaLI dubaIthI abu dhAbIno navo banelo Azare 180 kilomITarano sIdho vizALa dhorI rasto gatisahAyaka hato. nirdhArita samaye amArI maMDaLIe prasthAna karyuM. rastAmAM abu dhAbInA vikAsanI vAto nIkaLI. bhaugolika dRSTie to saMyukta Araba amIrAtano pradeza omAnanA akhAtamAM Avelo che. arabI samudramAM bahAranA bhAgamAM omAnanI saltanata che, jenuM mukhya baMdara maskata che. akhAtanI aMdaranI sAMkaDI khADImAM zArajAha, dubaI, abu dhAbI, dohA (katAra), baharIna, kuvaita vagere baMdaro AvelAM che. saMyukta Araba amIrAta eTale sAta amIrAtano saMyukta pradeza pratyeka amIrAtano vaDo te zekha. kinArAnAM thoDAM baMdaro sivAya aMdarano badho pradeza te raNavistAra. vacamAM kyAMka raNadvIpa (Oasis) hoya tyAM pIvAnuM mIThuM pANI ane hariyALI hoya. page cAlIne ke UMTa para savArI karIne raNamAM rakhaDanArAo, thAkyAnA visAmA jevA AvA raNadvIpane joIne harSita thaI jAya. amIrAtanA eka vizALa rAjyanuM kALakrame vibhAjana thatAM sAta rAjyo thayAM. badhAM vacce saMpa. jyAM vastI nathI evA raNanI retImAM sarahada AMkavAnuM moMdhuM, muzkela ane anAvazyaka lAge. itara pradezamAM nadI, sarovara, sAgara, khINa, parvata, jaMgala jevI kudaratI racanA sarahada AMkavAmAM upayogI thaI paDe. paNa raNamAM sapATa retImAM zuM karavuM ? raNamAM sarahada pAMcapaMdara kilomITara Amatema hoya to tethI zo pharaka paDavAno che ? jUnA vakhatamAM to potAnA rAjyanI sarahada jovA javAnuM paNa kaSTabharyuM hatuM. eTale jyAM retIno raMga badalAya tyAM sudhI potAnuM rAjya evI samajUtI zekho vacce sadhAyelI. jyAM kazuM hoya ja nahi tyAM sarahadano saMgharSa karavAthI lAbha karatAM nukasAna vadhu thAya. eMsI hajAra corasa kilomITaramAM patharAyelA abu dhAbInA rAjyamAM mukhyatve raNapradeza che. emAM retInA moTA moTA DuMgarAo joradAra pavananI bhamarI Ave tyAre enI sAthe eka sthaLethI UDIne bIje sthaLe evA ThalavAya ke jIvato mANasa daTAI mare. DamarI Ave tyAre jIva bacAvavA doDavuM paDe. divase sakhata garamIvALI AvI vikaTa paristhitimAM jUnA vakhatamAM taMbuomAM rahetA ahIMnA badheyuina (Bedouin jAtinA lokoe saikAothI bahu kaparuM jIvana gujAryuM che. A raNapradezamAM be moTA raNadvIpa te ala AIna (A Ain) ane livA (Liva)mAM phaLadrupa jamIna ane hariyALI che. zekhanuM raheThANa paNa tyAM ja rahetuM.
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________________ 17 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 abu dhAbInuM nAma kevI rIte paDyuM te vize evI rasika daMtakathA che ke I. sa. 1761mAM livAnA zekha dhiyaba bina IsAe potAne mATe zikAra karI lAvavA mATe eka TukaDI mokalI hatI. raNamAM zikAra karavA nIkaLavuM hoya to retImAM paDelAM pazuonAM pagalAMone anusaratAM javuM paDe. zikArIo rAtrimukAma karatAM karatAM AgaLa vadhatA gayA. ema karatAM temaNe eka divasa haraNanAM pagalAM joyAM. pagalAMne anusaratA teo samudrakinArAnA pradeza tarapha pahoMcyA. eka divasa savAre gADha dhummasa hatuM. dhummasa vIkharAtAM teone dUra dUra haraNonuM eka ToLuM jharaNAmAM pANI pI raheluM dekhAvuM. teo e bAju doDyA. eTalAmAM haraNo bhAgI gayAM, paraMtu raNavistAramAM pIvAlAyaka mIThuM pANI jovA ane pIvA maLyuM ethI teo AnaMdita thaI gayA. teoe AvIne zekhane A samAcAra ApyA. zekha e jANIne bahu rAjI thayA. emaNe e jagyAne "abu dhAbI' evuM nAma ApyuM. arabImAM abu eTale pitA ane dhAbI eTale haraNa. abu dhAbI eTale ke haraNonA pitAnI, vaDIlonI A jagyA eTale ke haraNonI pitRbhUmi che evo artha thAya. tyAM pIvAlAyaka mIThuM pANI che eTale tyAM lokone vasAvI zakAya. vaLI samudrakinArAno A pradeza che ane ene aDIne eka TApu paNa che. zekha dhiyaba bina IsAe tyAM nagara vasAvyuM. zekhane potAne moTI uMmare livA choDIne tyAM rahevA javAnuM gamyuM nahi, paraMtu samudrakinArAnuM mahattva samajIne emano dIkaro zekha zabbata 1793mAM tyAM rahevA gayo. tyArathI abu dhAbI amIrAtanuM pATanagara banI gayuM, paraMtu pATanagara eTale ? samagra rAjyamAM jyAM vastI ja nahi jevI tyAM A pATanagaramAM keTalI hoya ? be-aDhI hajAranI tyAre vastI hatI ane te paNa garIba ArabonI. amArI vAtacIta daramiyAna A khADInA vistAromAM cAlI rahelA purAtattva saMzodhananI vAta nIkaLI. tela kADhavA mATe khodakAma to karavuM paDe. e khodakAma karatAM karatAM ahIM prAcIna avazeSo nIkaLyA che. siMdhamAM moheM-jo daDo ane haDappAnA avazeSo maLyA pachI gujarAtamAM lothala ane kacchamAM dhoLAvIrAnA avazeSo je maLyA che te uparathI ema manAya che ke cArapAMca hajAra varSa pUrve arabI samudranI najIkanA A pradezomAM samRddha sAMskRtika vasavATa haze. Aje je raNapradeza che te tyAre kadAca nahi hoya. samudranI sImA paNa Aje che tenA karatAM AghIpAchI haze. abu dhAbImAM thayelAM saMzodhanonI ghaTanA rasika che. pahelAM AvA avazeSo baharInamAM maLI AvyA. e mATe DenmArkanA purAtattvavidonI eka TukaDI khodakAma karavA lAgI hatI. tyAM pAMca hajAra varSa prAcIna dIvAlo sahita avazeSo maLI AvyA. daramiyAna 1950mAM oila kaMpanIe abu dhAbImAM tela mATe khodakAma cAlu karyuM hatuM. emAM kAma karatA eka aMgreja oNphisare potAnA mitrone jaNAvyuM ke baharIna jevA avazeSo
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________________ 10 abu dhAbInI sAMja ahIM "umma ala nAra' nAmanA TApumAM paNa jaNAya che. keTalAka khADA kabaranA AkAranA nIkaLyA che. A vAta DenmArkanA purAtattvavidone jaNAvavAmAM AvI. zekhe paNa A kAmamAM rasa laI kharcanI maMjUrI ApI. e mATe yojanA thaI. vizALa vistAramAM khodakAma karatAM cAra-pAMca hajAra varSa jUnA avazeSo abu dhAbImAM paNa maLyA. emAM keTalIka AkRti UMTanI che. eTale tyAre paNa vAhana tarIke UMTano upayoga thato haze, enI sAbitI maLe che. vaLI sAcAM motI paNa maLI AvyAM. ethI jaNAya che ke arabastAnanI A khADImAM tyAre paNa motI dharAvatI isTara mAchalIo haze. A uparAMta dariyAI mArge bhArata sAthe vyavahAra haze evA saMketo paNa maLyA. umma ala nAranAM saMzodhanothI prabhAvita thaIne zekha jhAyede e niSNAtone ala AInamAM paNa khodakAma karavAnuM kAma soMpyuM. tyAMthI paNa paththaranAM vAsaNo, ojAro vagere maLI AvyAM. eka DuMgara upara ghaNI kabaro maLI AvI. ala AInathI thoDe dUra khodatAM eka AkhA nagaranA avazeSo maLI AvyA. eka sthaLe cakamakanA paththaranuM kArakhAnuM maLyuM. A badhA avazeSo darzAve che ke atyAre jyAM raNavistAra ane chUTIchavAi pAMkhI vastI che tyAM pAMca hajAra varSa pUrve samRddha vasavATa haze ! amArI gADI pUrapATa cAlatI hatI tyAM abu dhAbInA sImADA cAlu thayA. koI navA samRddha zaheramAM dAkhala thatAM hoIe evo anubhava thayo. Arthika samRddhi thatAM navesarathI vasAvelA zaheramAM zI vAte kamI hoya ? rahevAne sarasa moTAM gharo, pahoLA rastAo, moTI moTI bahurASTrIya kaMpanInAM uttuMga, maulika DijhAinavALAM makAno, vizALa sTorsa, Adhunika moTaragADIo, paMcatAraka hoTelo ane enA svaccha retItaTa, naukAvihAranI suvidhAo ityAdimAM pAzcAtya saMskRtino prabhAva varatAya che. tema chatAM keTalAMka sthApatyamAM musalamAna saMskRtino aNasAra anubhavAya che. ame zekha hamadAna sTrITa, zekha khalIphA sTrITa, ala nAsara sTrITa vageremAM pharyA. jUnA vakhatamAM motI ane mAchalInA vepAra para nabhatA abu dhAbInA kyAM garIba Arabo ane kyAM suMdara vastromAM susajja sukhI vartamAna Arabo ! navI masjidonA lAuDaspIkaravALA UMcA minArAomAMthI namAjane vakhate bulaMda dhvani cArebAju prasarI raheto. taDako rastA para asahya hato, paraMtu UMcAM UMcAM makAnomAM pUrvapazcima dizAnI AkheAkhI raMgaberaMgI kAcanI dIvAlo taDakAne mAtra sahya ja nahi, AphlAdaka banAvatI hatI. AMtararASTrIya vinimaya vadhatAM Adhunika vaijJAnika paddhatithI registAnamAM paNa vanaspatino vikAsa kevo thavA lAgyo che te ahIM najare jovA maLe che. ame hoTela zerATonanI mulAkAta lIdhI. ghara choDIne bahAra rAtavAso
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________________ 18 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 karavAnA viSayane mAnavajAte chellI sadImAM keTalo badho cagAvyo che ! dareka hoTelanI DijhAina vilakSaNa ane prabhAva anokho. jema duniyA sAMkaDI thatI jAya che tema hoTela udyoga vistarato jAya che. A vaibhavI zerATona hoTelanI keTalIka AgavI lAkSaNikatAno amane paricaya karAvavAmAM Avyo. abu dhAbI nagara, taLa bhUmimAM ane bAjumAM AvelA TApu para vikAsa pAmyuM che. ame pharatAM pharatAM samudrakinAre eka udyAnamAM pahoMcyA. navInabhAIe kahyuM, aMdhAruM thatAM sudhI ApaNe ahIM besIne dharmacarcA karIzuM." jIvadayAno ja viSaya nIkaLyo. A bAjunI samagra prajA mAMsAhArI che. bhAratamAM zAkAhArI lokonuM jeTaluM pramANe che eTaluM duniyAmAM bIje kyAMya jovA na maLe. mAMsAhArI prajAomAM paNa darekanI khAsiyata judI judI. samudrakinAre vasatA lokomAM masyAhAranuM pramANa vizeSa hoya e svAbhAvika che. jaina dharmamAM jIvadayAnI vAta jeTalI sUkSmatAthI vicAravAmAM AvI che teTalI anya dharmamAM nathI. amArI dharmacarcA cAlatI hatI tyAM pAse eka gADI AvIne UbhI rahI. emAMthI be Arabo UtaryA. eka prauDha vayano hato ane sAthe caudapaMdara varSano kizora hato. pitAputra haze evuM anumAna thayuM. gADInI DikImAMthI temaNe eka peTI ane bIjI keTalIka sAmagrI kADhI. teo amArI pAsenI samudranI pALI upara AvyA. baMnee mAchalI mAravAno potapotAno saLiyo taiyAra karyo. temanI vAtacIta sAMbhaLI arabI bhASA jANanAra navInabhAIe kahyuM, "pitA putrane mAchalI kevI rIte pakaDavI te zIkhavavA lAvyA che. mAchalI pakaDavI e ghaNA lokonI zokhanI pravRtti hoya che." amArAmAMthI koIe sUcana karyuM, "ApaNe bIje jaIne besIe. ApaNI najara sAme koI mAchalI pakaDe ane taraphaDatI mAchalI ApaNe jovI paDe e kema sahana thAya ?' jyAM jaIzuM tyAM bIjA koI nahi Ave enI zI khAtarI ? pele cheDe traNa jaNa to UbhA che ane bIjA paNa koI Ave. atyAre eno TAima thayo che,' navInabhAIe kahyuM. ApaNe taTastha bhAva rAkhavo. e bAju najara karavI nahi. koI mAchalI pakaDAya to enI sadgati mATe prArthanA karavI', bIjA eka jaNe kahyuM. ' kahyuM, "kadAca evuM bane ke ApaNe ahIM chIe tyAM sudhI koI mAchalI pakaDAze nahi. taraphaDatI mAchalI jovAno vakhata ApaNe mATe nahi Ave." ema thAya to to sAruM', badhA sasmita ekasAthe bolI UThyA. mAchalIo mATe zAMta citte prArthanA karI ame amArI dharmacarcAmAM parovAI gayA. joke kutUhalavaza koI koInI najara thoDI thoDI vAre te bAju pharI AvatI.
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________________ abu dhAbInI sAMja 19 kalAka to ghaDIkamAM pasAra thaI gayo. samudramAM kSitija upara sUrya nIce UtarI rahyo hato. bIjI bAju kAcanI dIvAlavALAM UMcAM makAnonI oNphisomAM dIvAbattI thaI hoya evuM lAgatuM hatuM. vAstavamAM e dIvAbattI nahotI, paNa te badhImAM AthamatA sUryanuM pratibiMba jhaLahaLI rahyuM hatuM. Athamato sUraja samudranI kSitija upara lAla daDAnI jema goThavAI gayo, jANe hamaNAM pANImAM daDI paDaze. vAtavAtamAM to te adazya thaI gayo ane aMdhakAra dRSTine AvaravA lAgyo. sAme bIjI bAju makAnomAM sAcI dIvAbattIno prakAza pAradarzaka kAcamAMthI prasaravA lAgyo. samagra dRzyanA saundarye AkAzane jhAMkhuM pADI dIdhuM hatuM. ame UbhA thayA. mAchalI pakaDavA mATe pALI pAse UbhelA pitA-putra nirAza thaIne potAnA saLiyA pAchA laI rahyA hatA. pitA putrane AzvAsana ApI rahyo hato ema temanI arabImAM thatI vAta sAMbhaLIne navInabhAIe amane kahyuM. ApaNI prArthanA phaLI' ema amane saune saharSa lAgyuM. ame cAlavA lAgyA. navInabhAIe kahyuM, "ApaNe divase kaoNphIpoTa ane kapanA AkArano phuvAro joyo. have je phuvAro jovAno che te zekhanA mugaTanA AkArano che. aMdhAruM thayA pachI ja tenI zobhA nihALavA jevI che. eTalA mATe ApaNe ahIM samaya pasAra karyo. have tyAM jaIe.' ame tyAM pahoMcyA. vizALa vartuLAkAra jagyAmAM udyAnanI vacce banAvelo khAsso UMco phuvAro enA UDatA sIkaro ane raMgaberaMgI battIonA prakAzane lIdhe ratnajaDita mugaTa jevo lAgato hato. vaLI nIce cArebAju phuvArAomAMthI UDatuM pANI vizALa chatrano AkAra dhAraNa karatuM hatuM. vAtAvaraNamAM maheka ane zItaLatA hatAM. phuvAro upara caDIne ame joyo ane pachI nIcethI paNa joyo. enA saundaryamAM dRSTikoNa anusAra vaividhya hatuM. saundaryavRddhimAM vijJAnano phALo ocho nathI, paNa kharcALa jarUra che. saundaryanI abhivRddhi vagara kharce to prakRti karI zake enI tAjI pratIti amane tyAM ja thaI. nIcethI ame UMcI daSTi karIne kuvAro jotAM hatAM te ja vakhate AkAzamAM baMkima caMdra ane zukrano graha ratnanA AbhUSaNanI jema prakAzI rahyA hatA. A phuvArAnA dazyanuM ja jANe eka aMga hoya, tema bane evA yogya sthAne goThavAyelA hatA. AvuM dazya to javalle ja jovA maLe. phuvAro joI, abu dhAbInI vidAya laI ame dubaI pAchA pharyA. Akhe raste lAiTono jhaLahaLato prakAza hato eTale gADInI gatine koI avarodha nahoto. ame dubaI samayasara pahoMcyA ane amAro kAryakrama paNa nirdhArita samaye ja cAlu thayo.
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________________ greTa beriyara rIpha AkAza, dharatI ane sAgaranA aMtarAlamAM tvaritapaNe gati karavAnI manuSyanI kSamatA uttarottara vadhatI rahI che. saikAo pahelAM jyAM pahoMcavAnuM azakya manAtuM ke camatkArabharyo kAlpanika viSaya gaNAto tyAM have svairavihAra karavAnuM sarvajanasulabha banI gayuM che. duniyAmAM sabamarIna dvArA jalagarbha sapharo bIjA vizvayuddha pahelAM AraMbhAI cUkI hatI, paraMtu eno upayoga sAmudrika yuddha ke dariyAI saMzodhano mATe thato. have evA yugamAM ApaNe pravezI cUkyA chIe ke jyAre pAradarzaka kAcavALI, prakAza relAvatI sabamarInamAM besI samudranI sapATInI nIce saphara karIne jalasRSTi nihALavAno lahAvo laI zakIe chIe. ogaNIsamI sadInA aMta sudhI oNsTreliyAnI uttara ane pUrva dizAmAM AvelA mahAsAgaramAM jahAjonI avarajavara ochI hatI. zodhasapharIo paNa Akho mahAsAgara khUMdI vaLyA nahotA. eTale amuka jaLavistAramAM dariyo chIcharo che, kAraNa ke tyAM pANImAM nIce khaDakALa TApuonI be hajAra kilomITara lAMbI hAramALA che evI tyAre khabara nahotI. jema jema jahAjonI avarajavara vadhatI gaI tathA samudrazAstrIya saMzodhano thatAM gayAM tema tema saMzodhakone jaNAyuM ke oNsTreliyAnI IzAna (pUrvottara) dizAmAM kinArAthI pacAsa-so mAIlanA aMtare chIcharA pANImAM nIce paravALAMnA khaDako che. teoe e samudrane Coral Sea - pravAla samudra' evuM nAma ApyuM ane paravALAMnA jalagarbha TApuonI hAramALAne nAma ApyuM Great Barrier Reef - paravALAMnA khaDako dvArA banelI moTI sarahada. ATalo moTo pravAladvIpa samUha duniyAmAM bIje kyAMya nathI. jyArathI duniyAnI eka ajAyabI gaNAtA beriyara rIphanI zodha thaI tyArathI uttara ane pUrvottara oNsTreliyAnuM bhAgya UghaDyuM. eka jamAnAmAM DArvina, DaglAsa, kAinsa vagere tyAMnAM baMdarI nagaro, hajAra-be hajAranI, mukhyatve mAchImAronI vastIvALAM, sUnAM lAgatAM hatAM. have uttara ane pUrva tarapha paryaTakono dhasAro vadhatAM, hoTelo ane anya suvidhAo ubhavatAM, kAyamI vasavATavALA lokonI saMkhyAmAM vRddhi thatAM, A nagaronI vikAsayAtrA sohAmaNI banavA lAgI che. paravALAnA pradezomAM mANasane vadhu kalAka ke divasa rahevA maLe ane
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________________ 21 greTa beriyara rIpha vAristaranI nIcenI sRSTi supere nihALavA maLe, vividha jalakrIDAo mATe anukULatA rahe e mATe A pravAla- jalanidhi (Coral Sea)mAM mekke, 2Dara, normana, eginakorTa, seksana, mAralina, seMTa krispina, AliMgaTana, grIna, spara, oniksa, anDAina ityAdi saMkhyAbaMdha pravAladvIpomAM vividha prakAranI suvidhAo thatI rahI che. A badhAmAM eginakorTa pAse samudramAM be mALavALuM vizALa pleTaphorma, mukAma mATe banAvavAmAM AvyuM che. ekasAthe betraNa sTImaranA pravAsIo Ave to teo badhAne UThavA-besavAnI, haravA-pharavAnI, snAna-bhojananI, jalakrIDAonI badhI sagavaDo maLI rahe, tathA varasAda ane taDakAthI bAremAsa rakSaNa maLe evI rIte enuM Ayojana thayuM che. A suvizAla pleTaphorma pANImAM taratuM che, jANe pANImAM tarato TApu (Floating Island) na hoya ! eka moTI imArata jevI racanA pANImAM taratI hovA chatAM enA vajanathI evI sthira rahe che ke khabara na paDe ke A taratI ImArata che. AvuM Ayojana thAya to ja paryaTakone AkarSI zakAya ane paryaTaka sthaLa tarIke eno vikAsa sAdhI zakAya. - oNsTreliyAnA izAna kinAre AvelA nagara kAinsa(Caimsno uccAra teo kAinsa kare che)mAM hoTela holiDe-inamAM amArI maMDaLIno utAro hato. amArA durasaMcAlake amAre mATe eka divasa greTa beriyara rIpha jovAno kAryakrama goThavyo hato. e mATe kvika silvara' nAmanI kaMpanInI TuramAM ame nAma noMdhAvyuM hatuM. savArathI sAMja sudhI "hoTela Tu hoTela'nI javAbadArI kaMpanInI hatI. AvAM AyojanomAM sAhasa ane svairavihArane avakAza ocho hoya che, paNa ocho samayamAM sagavaDabharyo pravAsa thAya che. ajANyA ane vRddhone paNa teo sAcavIne laI jAya che. amAre kAInsathI basamAM paoNrTa DaglAsa ane tyAMthI sTImaramAM eginakorTa javAnuM hatuM. ame kAInsathI savAre sADAsAta vAge DaglAsa javA nIkaLyA. DaglAsano Azare eMsI kilomITarano rasto samudranA kinAre kinAre uttara tarapha cAlyo jAya che. prabhAtanA zAnta, zItaLa, ramaNIya vAtAvaraNamAM prasannatA anubhavAtI hatI. A pradezamAM vAhanonI avarajavara ochI hovAthI ane raste cAlanAra rAhadArIo na hovAthI pradUSaNamukta prANavAyu skUrtimAM umero karato hato. navA pradezanAM bahAranAM dRzyo nihALavAmAM amAruM mana magna banI gayuM hatuM. sADAnava vAge ame DaglAsa baMdare pahoMcI gayA. "marinA mireja' nAmanA DaoNkamAMthI "kvika silvara' nAmanI amArI traNa mALavALI sTImara dasanA Takore UpaDavAnI hatI. DaoNkanuM pravezadvAra evI rIte hatuM ke suveninA eka vizALa sToramAMthI ApaNe avazya pasAra thavuM ja paDe.
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 22 'joze to kharIdaze'nI nIti anusA2 AvAM prakAranAM pravezadvA2o duniyAmAM vadhatAM cAlyAM che. ame badhA sTImaramAM goThavAyA. bIjA ghaNA pravAsIo paNa hatA. barAbara dasa vAge sTImaranuM bhUMgaLuM vAgyuM. sTImara evI dhImethI sarakI ke bahAra najara karIe to ja khabara paDe ke sTImara UpaDI che. DaglAsathI eginakorTano jalamArga doDha kalAkano hato. sTImaramAM yatheccha besavAnuM hatuM, paraMtu eka ja jagyAe besI rahevA karatAM u52nIce ane AgaLapAchaLa haravA-pha2vAthI samudramAM dazyavaividhya mANavA maLatuM hatuM. vAyu maMda hato eTale sTImara svasthatApUrvaka ekasarakhI gati karatI hatI. nirabhra AkAzamAM sUrya upara caDI rahyo hato eTale Deka uparano taDako asahiSNu pravAsIone chAMyaDAmAM dhakelato hato. samaya thatAM cA-kaoNphI ane anya pINAM cAlu thayAM. mAika upara beriyara rIphanI mAhitI ane anya sUcanAo apAvA lAgI. thoDI vAra pachI jahAje pravAladvIpa samUhanA vistAramAM praveza karyo. have jahAje sAvadha rahevAnI jarUra hatI; kAraNa ke bahArathI to samudranI sapATI cArebAju ekasarakhI dekhAtI hatI. dvIpo to pANInI nIce hatA. paraMtu jahAja pote jo sAcave nahi to koIka khaDaka sAthe bhaTakAI paDe. DaglAsathI eginakorTano sIdho mArga to TUMko hato, paNa sunizcita karelA salAmata mArge gati ka2vA mATe jahAje vaLAMka levo jarUrI hato. amArI maMDaLImAM AnaMdollAsa pravartato hato. koI gAtA hatA, koI 2matA hatA, koI phoTA pADatA hatA, koI prAkRtika dazyo nihALatA hatA. eka navA anokhA sthaLe javAno ane jovAno utsukatAbharyo bhAva saunA caherA upara taravarato hato. barAbara sADAagiyAra vAge amArI sTImara eginakorTa pahoMcI. koI DaoNkamAM UtaratA hoIe evo anubhava hato. traNa vAgyA sudhInuM rokANa hatuM. daramiyAna zuM zuM karavuM te aMgenI sUcanAo apAI. amArAmAMnA keTalAka pANImAM taravA paDyA. keTalAke skUbA DAiviMga karyuM. e mATenAM sAdhano ahIM bhADe maLatAM hatAM. skUbA DAiviMga mATe dariyAmAM sarahada bAMdhI dIdhI hatI. vaLI rakSako paNa nirIkSaNa karatA. AvaDatuM hoya ane hiMmata hoya to mahoruM paherIne pANImAM nIce DUbakI mArIne, sapATInI upara rahetI lAMbI naLI dvArA havA laIne, lAMbA samaya sudhI pANInI nIce ramavuM ane avalokana karavuM e eka zokhanI ramata che. prANavAyunI TAMkI sAthe paNa DUbakI mArI zakAya che; snorakeliMga karAya che. ahIM eka bAju oNbjharaveTarI karavAmAM AvI che. keTalAMka pagathiyAM UtarIne nIce jaIe eTale samudranI sapATIthI nIceno bhAga Ave. tyAM pAradarzaka kAcavALI
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________________ 23 greTa beriyara rIpha bArIo rAkhavAmAM AvI che jemAMthI pANImAM sapATI nIce taratI mAchalIo, paravALAM vagere jovA maLe. skUbA DAiviMga karanAra koI mANasa najIka Ave to te paNa dekhAya. paravALAMvALA khaDako jyAM hoya tyAM pANI sAmAnya rIte cokhkha, pAradarzaka jevuM hoya che. eTale jyAM paravALAM hoya che tyAM kAcanA taLiyAvALI boTamAM sahelANIone laI jaIne e batAvavAmAM Ave che. duniyAmAM ghaNAM sthaLe AvI pravRtti cAle che, paNa ahIM paravALAM-darzana mATe vizALa dhoraNe Ayojana thayuM che. vAMkA vaLIne, nIcI Doka karIne nahi, paNa beThAM beThAM ke UbhAM UbhAM AvuM vadhu vistRta dazya ahIM jovA maLe che. taduparAMta ahIMnI vizeSatA e che ke pAradarzaka kAcanI bArIovALI nAnI sabamarInamAM saphara karAvAya che. potAnI beThakamAM beThAM beThAM baMne bAjunI bArIomAMthI badalAtAM jatAM adbhuta dRzyo jovA maLe che. jovA jevuM jyAM vadhu hoya tyAM sabamarIna UbhI rahe. sUryaprakAzane lIdhe pANImAM paravALAMnA nAnAmoTA khaDako, dariyAI vanaspati, AMgaLInAM TeravAM jevaDI ke aMgUThA jevaDI hajAro raMgaberaMgI mAchalIo potapotAnA samudAyamAM AmathI tema bhamatI jovA maLe, jANe koI jAduI nagarImAM ApaNe praveza na karyo hoya ! koI nibaMdha mAchalIgharamAM pharatA hoIe evuM lAge ! paravALAM (Coral) jyAM sUryano taDako paDato hoya evA uSNa ke samazItoSNa pradezonA samudranA chIcharA pANImAM thAya che. paravALAM eka prakAranAM jhINAM jalacara che. te jema maratAM jAya tema enA mRta kalevaramAM rahelo cUno (kelziyama) ekatra thato jAya che. te jema nakkara thato jAya tema tema enA khaDaka baMdhAya che. daramiyAna navAM paravALAM utpanna thavAnI kriyA cAlu hoya che. paravALAM dvArA satata baMdhAtA AvA khaDako kyAMka vartuLAkAra hoya che, to kyAMka sIdhI hAramAM hoya che. keTalAMka paravALAMnA khaDakamAM jhINI jhINI mAchalIo hoya che. ene Coral Fish kahevAmAM Ave che. paravALAMne pANImAMthI bahAra kADhavAmAM Ave tyAre te cIkaNAM ane gaMdhAtAM hoya che. sUryanA taDakAmAM eno raMga badalAto rahe che. enI sukavaNInI paNa eka kaLA che. samudramAM paravALAM vividha AkAranAM hoya che. emAM sapheda ane AchA vAdaLI raMganAM ghummaTanA AkAranAM ane sAbaraziMganA AkAranAM vadhu jANItAM che. te akhaMDita hoya to bahu mUlyavAna gaNAya che. kalAtmaka goThavaNI mATe te vaparAya che. keTalAMka paravALAMmAMthI maMgaLanA pArA ke naMga banAvAya che. taDakAmAM tapIne te nakkara thAya che ane gulAbI ke geru raMga dhAraNa kare che. dAgInA, auSadha vageremAM teno upayoga thAya che.
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________________ 24 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 doDha-be vAgyA sudhI potapotAnI icchA pramANe pravRtti karI bhojanakhaMDamAM ame badhA ekatra thavA lAgyA. badhAMne kakaDIne bhUkha lAgI hatI, taravAvALAne vizeSa. meM mArAM patnIne kahyuM, "ApaNane bhUkha barAbara lAgI che ane bhAvatI vAnagIo ghaNI che, paraMtu pachI pravAsa sTImarano che e bhUlavuM na joIe. bharyA peTe jalapravAsa koIne sade, koIne na sade.' amArA TurasaMcAlake paNa kahyuM ke, "badhAne mATe sarasa bhojana banAvyuM che, mATe barAbara jamajo. tame ochuM khAjo evI bhalAmaNa ame karIe to UMdho artha thAya. paNa pachI ApaNe tarata sTImarano pravAsa karavAno che e dhyAnamAM rAkhajo. tamane mAphaka Ave te pramANe karajo.' ame mAtra alpAhAra ja karyo. amArAmAMnA ghaNA svAdiSTa bhojanane yogya nyAya ApyA vagara na rahI zakyA. svAdendriya vicitra indriya che. mana sAthe jyAre ene saMgharSa thAya che tyAre vijaya bahudhA eno ja thAya che. - bhojana pachI badhA sTImaramAM pahoMcI gayA. samaya thAya eTale sTImara UpaDI jAya che. koInI rAha jovAmAM e mAnatI nathI. traNanA Takore bhUMgaLuM vAgyuM ane sTImara UpaDI. ame badhA upara-nIcenA DekamAM potapotAnA jUthamAM vAtomAM parovAI gayA hatA. samudranI saphara ane vividha jalakrIDAothI badhA evA dharAyA hatA ke have bahAra jovAnI icchA bahu ochAne thatI hatI. aDadho kalAka sTImara barAbara cAlI. pachI vegIlo pavana nIkaLatAM mojAMomAM hiloLA vadhyA ane sTImara vAraMvAra hAlakaDolaka thavA lAgI. eve vakhate UbhA thaIne cAlIe to samatulA gumAvI daIe, pahoLA page UbhA rahevAne TevAyelA karmacArIo samatulA jALavIne haraphara karI zakatA hatA. upara sapheda ane nIce AchA vAdaLI raMganAM vastrono teono gaNaveza jANe paravALAMnuM pratinidhitva karato hato. amArA vibhAgamAM cha karmacArI yuvaka-yuvatI hatAM. temanA gaLAmAM nAkamoDhuM DhAMkavAnuM lUgaDuM laTakatuM hatuM. eke te moDhe paherI lIdhuM. amane thayuM ke kyAMka durgadha hovI joIe. keTalIka vAra sTImaranA zaucAlayamAM bharAvo thAya to durgadha prasaratI hoya che, paraMtu evI kazI durgadha amane jaNAI nahi. thoDI vAramAM to badhA karmacArIoe hAthamojAM paNa caDAvI dIdhAM. koI oNparezana thiyeTaramAM ApaNe beThA hoIe evuM amane lAgyuM. evAmAM eka karmacArI kAgaLanI kothaLIonI moTI thappI laIne Avyo ane potAnA kAunTare thoDI mUkI ane thoDI bIjI bAjunA kAunTara upara mUkI. pachI pepara naeNplina AvyAM ane pIvAnA pANInI bATalIo tathA plAsTikanA glAsa AvyAM. karmacArIo ekabIjAthI chUTA chUTA goThavAI gayA hoya ema lAgyuM. savAre kaMI kAma hoya to temane bolAvavA paDatA. atyAre vagara bolAvyuM teo badhAnI vacce jANe kazA kAmakAja vagaranA hoya tema UbhA rahyA. teo amArA badhAnI sAme
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________________ greTa beriyara rIpha 25 sasmita vadane TagaraTagara jovA lAgyA, jANe koI parIkSAkhaMDamAM suparavAijhara na hoya ! evAmAM eka karmacArI yuvatI acAnaka doDI ane eka mahilA pravAsI pAse jaIne UbhI rahI. eNe potAnA hAthamAM rAkhelI kothaLI pahoLI karIne e mahilAne ApI. mahilAne UlaTI thaI te kothaLImAM levAI gaI. naeNplina ane pANI apAI gayAM. have samajAyuM ke karmacArIo UlaTI thAya te mATe susajja thaIne UbhA hatA. teono A rojano kAryakrama hato. teone have evo mahAvaro thaI gayo hato ke kone UlaTI thavAnI zakyatA che te enA caherAnI badalAtI rekhAo parathI pArakhI zaktA ane tarata tenI pAse kothaLI, pANI vagere laI pahoMcI jatA. amArA vibhAgamAM aDadhA kalAkamAM vIseka jaNane UlaTI thaI haze. UlaTI evI cepI vastu che ke ekane thAya to AjubAjuvALA koIkane paNa kadAca thAya. ahIM A sTImaramAM karmacArIonI kAryadakSatA evI hatI ke phaTAphaTa kothaLIo pahoLI karIne apAya ane UlaTIvALI kothaLIono tarata nikAla thaI jAya. UlaTIno eka chAMTo teoe jamIna para paDavA dIdho nathI. keTalAkanuM kAma eTaluM jhaDapathI patI jatuM ke bIjAne bahu khabara paDatI nahi. karmacArIoe kyAMya durgadha prasaravA dIdhI nahi, eTaluM ja nahi, jarUra lAge tyAM teo sugaMdhI pravAhIno chaMTakAva karI jatA. sUgavALuM kAma kevuM hasatA mukhe, kartavyarUpe, pUrI sAvadhAnI sAthe, agamacetI ane dakSatApUrvaka teoe karyuM eno khyAla najare jovAthI vadhu Ave. amAro savArano samudra-pravAsa keTalo badho prasanna ane praphullita hato ! beriyara rIphano sarasa anubhava laIne pAchA pharatAM keTalAkane mATe e pravAsa kevo becenIbharyo banI gayo ! keTalAke to basamAM paNa Akhe raste jholAM khAdhAM. samudrano pravAsa haMmezAM badhAne mATe "madhureNa samApayet' ja hoya che evuM nathI.
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________________ sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa duniyAnuM vidyamAna moTAmAM moTuM - bhImakAya vRkSa kayuM? jene "janarala zaramana' evuM nAma apAyuM che te sikoyA (Sequoia) vRkSa. (sikoyA zabda "sikuyA', "sekayA', "sekoiyA" tarIke paNa uccArAya che.) dharatI para dIrdhAyuSya bhogavanArAM vRkSomAM paNa sikoyAnI gaNanA thAya che. ApaNAM vaDa, pIpaLo, lImaDo, AMbo vagere baso-traNaso varSa jUnAM hoI zake. keTalAMka vRkSo hajAreka varSa sudhI astitva TakAvI zake che. sikoyA traNa hajArathI vadhu varSa jIvI zake che. amerikAnuM 'brisala kona pAina vRkSa cAra hajAra karatAM vadhu varSathI aDIkhama UbhuM che. "janarala zaramana (Sherman - zeramAna uccAra paNa thAya che) vRkSa hevI veiTa to che ja, paNa sikoyAmAM te "siniyara mosTa' paNa che. traNa hajAra varSa to te kyAranuMya vaTAvI cUkyuM che. sikoyA amerikAmAM kaeNliphaoNrniyA ane nevADA rAjyamAM pAMcathI sAta hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe UganAruM vRkSa che. tyAMnA "yosemiTI', "sikoyA pArka' vageremAM AvAM bRhadakAya sikoyA saMkhyAbaMdha jovA maLe che. amerikAnI mArI eka mulAkAta daramiyAna tyAM rahetAM mArA pautra-pautrI arcita ane acirAe eka divasa mArI samakSa prastAva mUkyo : "dAdAjI ! ApaNe AvatA zani-ravi "sikoyA pArka' jaIzuM ? amArA TIcare kahyuM che. skUlamAM hamaNAM amane sikoyA vize zIkhavavAmAM AvyuM che.' ApaNe haju sikoyAnuM nAma paNa na sAMbhaLyuM hoya tyAM ATha varSano acita ane cha varSanI acirA ane emanI zALAnA vidyArthIo sikoyA vize jANakArI dharAvatAM hoya e kevI Azcarya ane AnaMdanI vAta kahevAya ! ApaNe tyAM ja nahi, bIjA keTalAye dezomAM mAtra vidyArthIo ja nahi, moTI umaranA mANaso sudhdhAM potAnA AMgaNAmAM UgelAM vRkSonAM nAma jANatA nathI hotA, e paNa AzcaryanI vAta gaNAvI joIe. vRkSo ane velaDIo, parNo ane puSpo, pazuo ane paMkhIo, AkAzanA tArA ane graho A badhA vize emanAM nAma jANavA jeTalI ApaNI darakAra paNa keTalI badhI ochI che ! pachI prakRti sAthenuM ApaNuM tAdAbhya kyAMthI
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________________ sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa 27 vadhe ? A viSayamAM ApaNI daridratA ApaNane sAlavI joIe. ApaNA jIvanavikAsamAM vRkSonuM yogadAna keTaluM moTuM che ! ApaNA keTalAye mahAtmAone jJAnanI upalabdhi vRkSa nIce thaI che ! - sikoyAnI vAta sAMbhaLI meM tarata sikoyA pArka javA mATe saMmati darzAvI, eTale tyAM javAno kAryakrama tarata goThavAI gayo. sAphrAnsisko pAsenA kuparaTino zaherathI ame saparivAra UpaDyA. rastAmAM eksaTara nAmanA nAnA nagaranI eka moTelamAM rAtrimukAma karIne vahelI savAre sikoyA pArka javA nIkaLyA. rastA para avarajavara ochI hatI. vAtAvaraNamAM preraka zItalatA hatI. rastAnI baMne bAju saMtarAMnI vADIo AvatI gaI. svayameva UgelAM nahi paNa yojanAbaddha rIte vyAvasAyika dhoraNe ugADelAM hArabaMdha seMkaDo vRkSo para kesarI raMganAM bharacaka saMtarAM laTakatAM ane keTalAMye nIce paDI saDI jatAM nihALavAM e paNa anokho anubhava che. AgaLa jatAM caDhANa cAlu thayuM. khAkhI raMganA vRkSavihIna DuMgarAonI vaccethI rasto UMce caDato jato hato. kyAMka taLAvo dekhAtAM hatAM. kyAMka dhumADiyA rIMcha (Smoky Bear) jovA maLatAM hatAM. kyAMka moTAM ziMgaDAMvALAM gheTAM najare paDatAM hatAM. kyAMka vacce vahetuM khaLakhaLa pANI himAlayanI yAda apAvatuM hatuM. pAkanuM pravezadvAra AvyuM. phI bharIne ame dAkhala thayA. AvA nezanala pArka eTale mAIlono vistAra. rastAmAM eka bAju sAruM majabUta makAna toDI paDAtuM ame joyuM. prazna thayo ke ahIM jagyAnI taMgI nathI ane makAna kazAne naDatuM nathI, to pachI kema toDI paDAtuM haze ? kAraNa ke jaMgalo vagere naisargika sthaLo vize gaI sadInI ane vartamAna samayanI vicAraNAmAM pharaka paDyo che. jUnA vakhatamAM prakRtiramya sthaLa paryaTana mATe pasaMda thatuM. tyAM javA-AvavA mATe pAkA rastA, sarasa makAno, gharo, moTI moTI hoTelo, dukAno, rahevA tathA khAvApIvAnI sagavaDo ityAdi UbhAM karavAnuM yogya jaNAtuM. paryaTana ane manoraMjanane prAdhAnya apAtuM. have AvA pArkamAM paryAvaraNane prAdhAnya apAya che. vRkSo sacavAvAM joIe. pazupakSIo bhAgI javAM na joIe. eno zikAra na thavo joIe. rastAo jarUra pUratA ane te paNa kAcA rAkhavA joIe. anivArya hoya tyAM ja pAkA banAvavA. khAvApIvAnI ane zaucAdinI sagavaDo paNa anivArya hoya eTalI ja UbhI karavI joIe. jaMgalomAM paryAvaraNanA bhoge paryaTana kendro vikasAvavAno khyAla have bhUlabharelo gaNAya che. eTale ja A pArkamAM ghaNAM sArAM sArAM makAno pADI nAkhavAmAM AvyAM che. A sikoyA nezanala pArkanI sthApanA I. sa. 1890mAM thaI hatI. tyAra pachI A pArkano vistAra vakhatovakhata vadhArAto gayo. kaeNliphaoNrniyAmAM "yosemiTIne nezanala pArkano darajjo apAvavAmAM mukhya kArya karanAra prakRtipremI lekhaka jona mUre
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________________ 28 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 sikoyA pArkanA vikAsamAM paNa mahattvanuM kArya karyuM hatuM. te vakhate enuM nAma "janarala grAnTa pArka' evuM rakhAyuM hatuM, paraMtu tyAra pachI pArkano vistAra ghaNo vadhyo. eTale ene "sikoyA naeNzanala pArka" evuM nAma apAyuM. vaLI bAjunA khINanA pradezane paNa pArkano darajjo apAyo ane enuM nAma kiMgsa kenyana pArka' rakhAyuM. vakhata jatAM A baMne pArkane joDI devAmAM AvyA che. pAkanuM naisargika vAtAvaraNa barAbara jaLavAI rahe e mATe sarakAra ane vyavasthApako bahu sabhAna rahyAM che. ame mAhitI kendra pAse pahoMcyAM. gADI pArka karIne emAM dAkhala thayA. pUchaparacha kAryAlayanI baMne bAju vizALa holamAM sthAyI pradarzana jevuM hatuM. ame pAkano nakazo laI abhyAsa karyo. ahIM potAnI gADImAM besI dUra dUranAM mahattvanAM sthaLo jAte marajI mujaba joI zakAya che. taduparAMta bhomiyA (Ranger) sAthe nizcita samaye page cAlatAM cAlatAM keDIe keDIe bhamI zakAya che. ame pahelAM renjara - bhomiyAvALA kAryakramamAM joDAvAnuM nakkI karyuM. jeone A kAryakramamAM joDAvuM hoya teo badhA tyAM ekatra thayA hatA. e mATe kazI phI. ApavAnI nahotI. loko rasa letA thAya ane rasika lokone adhikRta jANakArI, najare jovA sAthe maLI rahe e ja A dainika kAryakrama pAchaLa Ayojakono Azaya che. samaya thatAM be bhomiyA tyAM AvI pahoMcyA, eka yuvaka ane eka yuvatI. yuvakanuM nAma hatuM 'TIma' ane yuvatInuM nAma hatuM "kerola hAkujA." aTaka ane mukhAkRti parathI yuvatI jApAnI lAgatI hatI, paNa tenA uccAro parathI te amerikAmAM ja janmI ane bhaNI haze evuM anumAna thayuM. aMgata prazna na puchAya chatAM utsukatA khAtara pUchatAM amAruM anumAna sAcuM paDyuM. baMne renjare mAthe TopI sahita khAkhI yuniphorma paheryo hato. temanA zarTane cAra moTAM khissAM hatAM. dareka khissAmAM pravAsIone samajAvavA, batAvavA kaMIka cIjavastuo rAkhelI hatI. vaLI temanI pAse hevaraseka baeNga hatI. e paNa bharelI hatI. baMne renjaranA caherA komaLa, saumya, prasanna ane zAMta hatA. baMne prakRtipremI jaNAyA. A kAma mATe teoe tAlIma lIdhI hatI. koI prazna pUche to teo rAjI thaIne sasmita javAba ApatA. pravAsIonAM be jUtha karavAmAM AvyAM. eka jUtha TIma sAthe jAya ane bIjuM jUtha hAkujA sAthe jAya. doDha-be kalAke pAchA AvyA pachI baMne jUthanI adalAbadalI thAya. ame pahelAM "TIma' sAthe joDAyA. thoDuM cAlIe ane thoDI vAra UbhA rahIe evo teono krama hato ke jethI koIne thAka na lAge. TIme kahyuM, "kaeNliphorniyA ane nevADA rAjyamAM sikoyA vRkSanAM poNosothI adhika jhuMDa (Grove) che. emAM pAMca paMdara varSanAM bAlavRkSo che, baso pAMcaso varSanAM yuvAna vRkSa che ane be-traNa hajAra varSanAM vayovRddha vRkSo paNa che. keTalAka mANasonA caherA parathI enI umarano aMdAja jema
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________________ 29 sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa nathI Avato tema sikoyAnI uMmaramAM paNa ApaNe bhUlathApa khAI jaIe." TIme amane UMcuM paNa pAtaLI soTI jevuM lIluMchama vRkSa batAvIne pUchyuM, "A sikoyAnI uMmara keTalI haze ?' ame kahyuM ke, "pahelAM to e sikoyA jevuM lAgatuM ja nathI. paNa sikoyA ja jo che to enI umara traNacAra varSanI haze.' TIme kahyuM. "nA, enI umara poNoso varSathI vadhu che." 'paNa ame ema kema mAnI laIe ?' 'huM mArA gharanuM nathI hAMkato ke tamArI majAka nathI karato. sikoyAnI uMmara jANavAnI vaijJAnika paddhati che. enA paDamAM cheda pADI, enA koSonAM vartuLono keTalo vikAsa thayo che enI gaNatarI karIne umarano aMdAja kADhavAmAM Ave che." pachI vRkSanA "sikoyA' nAmanI vAta karatAM bhomiyAe kahyuM, "sAmAnya rIte iMgliza bhASAmAM vRkSonAM nAma laeNTina athavA grIka bhASA parathI AvyAM che, paNa sikoyA' zabda e rIte nathI Avyo. e chellA doDhabe saikA jeTalo jUno che. sikoyA vRkSa to traNa hajAra ke tethI vadhu varSathI prAcIna che. bhUtakALanA saikAo daramiyAna bhinna bhinna yuganI AdivAsI prajA ene bhinna bhinna nAmathI oLakhatI AvI haze. e vize ApaNI pAse kazI ja AdhArabhUta mAhitI nathI. arvAcIna 'sikoyA' nAma kevI rIte paDyuM enI rasika daMtakathA che. jUnA vakhatamAM A vistAramAM je AdivAsIo (inDiyana) rahetA hatA te cirokI' jAtinA hatA. Aje paNa temanA vaMzajo A vistAramAM chUTAchavAyA jovA maLe che. e cirokI lokonA netAnuM nAma hatuM 'si koNa vAha'. te bahu lokapriya hato. eNe potAnA lokone saMskArI banAvyA, bhAIcAro vadhAryo ane potAnI bhASAnuM sAMketika akSarajJAna ApyuM. enA avasAna pachI e jAtinA lokoe enI yAdagIrI tarIke vRkSomAM netA samAna A vRkSane "si koha yAha" evuM nAma ApyuM. tyArathI 'sikoyA' zabda pracalita thaI gayo che. AgaLa jatAM eka sthaLe amane badhAne vartuLAkAre UbhA rAkhI bhomiyAe potAnA thelAmAMthI eka jADo lAMbo kharabacaDo lAkaDAno TukaDo kADhyo. sikoyAnA jhADanI chAlano e TukaDo hato. pachI eNe eka gaeNsabarnara kADhyuM. gesa peTAvIne enA upara chAlano TukaDo baLavA mATe eka cheDethI hAthamAM dharyo. lAkaDuM to tarata baLe ane dhumADA nIkaLe, paraMtu khAssI vAra rAkhavA chatAM e chAla baLI nahi. eNe kahyuM, "A TukaDo baLyo nathI, paNa e keTalo garama che te jovA tamArAmAMthI koNa hAthamAM leze ?' dajhAvAnI bIke koIe tatparatA batAvI nahi. eTale e garama TukaDo eNe potAnI ja hatheLImAM mUkyo ane hatheLI dabAvI. jANe kazuM thayuM na hoya evuM lAgyuM. ethI amArAmAM hiMmata AvI. badhAe eno sparza karI joyo. koIne dajhAyuM nahi. bhomiyAe kahyuM, "A ja sikoyAnI khUbI che. tajanA raMga jevA raMgavALI A chAla
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________________ 30 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 evA guNavALI che ke te Aga pakaDatI nathI. ThaMDI, garamI ke varasAdanI koI mAThI asara chAla upara thatI nathI. eTale ja jaMgalamAM Aga lAge, Bush Fire thAya to sikoyAnA vRkSane baLI maravAno jarA paNa Dara nahi. comera bhaDabhaDa baLatA agni vacce paNa sikoyAnuM vRkSa svastha ane prasanna rahe che." sikoyAnuM eka DIMDavuM (Cone-jIMDavuM) batAvI bhomiyAe vaLI eka vizeSa vAta kahI. sikoyAnAM A jaMgalomAM pahelAMnA vakhatamAM Aga lAgatI to te olavI nAkhavAmAM AvatI, ema mAnIne ke ethI sikoyAnAM vRkSone nukasAna pahoMcaze, paraMtu have A khyAla badalAI gayo che. vanaspatizAstrIoe evuM saMzodhana karyuM che ke Aga to sikoyA mATe upakAraka che. AgathI sikoyA baLatuM nathI , paNa enAM DIMDavAMmAMthI enAM bI chUTAM paDI UDe che ane dUra dUra sudhI paDelAM e bImAMthI navAM sikoyA Uge che. eTale sikoyAnI prajotpatti mATe Aga AvakAradAyaka che. paNa Aga na lAge to ? to paNa navAM sikoyA Uge che, kAraNa ke A vRkSomAM khisakolIo ghaNI hoya che. tene DIMDavAM bahu bhAve che. te DIMDavAM phoDI khAya che tyAre enAM bI AsapAsa verAya che. prakRtimAM badhI vyavasthA goThavAyelI hoya che. - sikoyAne taDako sAro joIe. ThaMDI, varasAda, barapha vagere paNa ene bahu game. e traNaso - savA traNaso phUTa jeTaluM sIdhuM UcuM TaTAra vadhatuM jAya. enuM thaDa ghaNe UMce sudhI DALa vagaranuM hoya. enI DALIo lacelI ke namelI nahi, paNa koI lazkarI javAnI kavAyata karatI vakhate hAtha sIdho laMbAve evI hoya che. vRkSa jema moTuM thatuM jAya tema DALa moTI thatI jAya. hajAra varSa jUnA sikoyAnI DALa daseka phUTa jADI ane trIseka phUTa lAMbI hoya che, jANe vRkSa upara bIjuM ADuM vRkSa UgyuM na hoya ! sikoyA vaDa, AMbA ke lImaDA jevuM chatrAkAra, ghaTAdAra vRkSa nathI, paNa enI DALIomAM pAMdaDAMonAM chUTAM chUTAM jhUmakhAM hoya che. moTA sikoyAnI chAla paMdara-pacIsa iMca jADI hoya che. A chAlanA rakSaNathI ane emAMthI nIkaLatA Tenika eNsiDathI jaMturahita rahevAne lIdhe sikoyAne dIrdhAyuSya sAMpaDe che. vaLI Tenika eNsiDane lIdhe sikoyAnI chAlano raMga ratAza paDato, geru jevo thAya che. A raMgane kAraNe sikoyAnuM vRkSa koI bhagavAdhArI dhyAnastha saMnyAsI jevuM lAge. eTale ja sikoyA pAsenA vAtAvaraNamAM koI adbhuta zakti ane preraka prasannatA anubhavAya che. renjare amane keDIe keDIe pharatAM pharatAM vividha vanaspatino pratyakSa paricaya karAvyo. amArAM arcita ane acirAe paNa emAM sarakho rasa lIdho. ame pAchA pharyA. be kalAkanA virAma pachI renja2 hAkujA sAthe javAnuM hatuM. virAma daramiyAna pArkamAM prakRtikendra(Nature Centre)mAM bAra varSa sudhInAM bALako mATe rojeroja eka kalAka mATe varga calAvavAmAM Ave che. e mATe agAuthI nAma noMdhAvavAnI
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________________ 31 sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa jarUra nathI ane e mATe kazI phI paNa nathI. UgatI prajA prakRtimAM vadhu rasa letI thAya, prakRtipremI bane ane paryAvaraNa mATe temanAmAM sabhAnatA Ave e ja eno Azaya che. amArAM arcita ane acirA emAM joDAI gayAM. pacAseka bALako AvyAM hatAM. eka renjara bhAI ane bahena e varga levAnAM hatAM. vaDIlone besavAnI chUTa hatI eTale eka bAju rakhAyelI khurazIomAM ame paNa beThAM. baMne renjaroe A jaMgalamAM jovA maLatAM vRkSo, velAo, prANIo, jIvajaMtuo ityAdinI khAsiyatonA phoTAo, citro, cIjavastuo vagere dvArA sarasa paricaya karAvyo. teonI keTalIka paddhati viziSTa hatI. udAharaNa tarIke hArabaMdha judAM judAM khAnAMomAM pratyekamAM koIka vastu mUkI hatI. baMdha khAnAmAM upara rAkhelA moTA kANAmAM bALake hAtha nAkhIne aMdaranI vastuno sparza karIne kahevAnuM ke te zuM haze. tyAra pachI badhAM khAnAM kholI nAkhavAmAM Ave. koIkamAM paththara, koIkamAM lAkaDAno TukaDo, koIkamAM rIMchanI cAmaDI, jhADanI chAla, khisakolInI pUMchaDI, sikoyAnuM DIMDavuM, pAMdaDAM, ghAsa vagere hatAM. e joIne potAnA javAba keTalA sAcA paDyA che tenI bALakone khabara paDI jAya. tyAra pachI bALakone praznapatranI eka pustikA ApavAmAM AvI. emAM ghaNA badhA prazno hatA, paNa bharatAM vAra lAge ema nahotuM, kAraNa ke sAcA javAba para nizAnI karavAnI hatI. arcita ane acirA te bharIne mAhitI kendramAM ApI AvyAM. samaya thayo eTale ame joDAyA renjara kerola hAkujA sAthe. eka jApAnI yuvatI AvA kSetramAM vyAvasAyika dhoraNe joDAya e AzcaryanI vAta hatI. vastuta: eno vyavasAya prakRtipremano paryAya banI gayo hato. enI saumya, prasanna mukhAkRti ja kudarata sAthenA enA tAdAbhyanI sAkSI pUratI hatI. enA amerikana anunAsika uccAromAM mAdhurya varatAtuM hatuM. te amane pahelAM laI gaI eka sUtelA eTale ke jamInadosta thayelA sikoyAnA thaDa pAse. vRkSanuM thaDa keTaluM badhuM jADuM ane moTuM hoI zake eno vAstavika khyAla ApavA mATe A eka dRzya ja pUratuM gaNAya. thaDa jotAM ja lAge ke jANe kuMbhakarNa na sUto hoya ! saikAothI paDeluM thaDa aMdarathI poluM thaI gayuM che. pachI to mANasoe aMdarathI kApIne e polANane vyavasthita ghATa Apyo che. ame emAM dhakhala thayA. jANe lAMbuM moTuM bhoMyaruM ! ajavALuM Ave e mATe emAM kyAMka kyAMka bAkorAM karyA che. jUnA vakhatamAM ahIMnA AdivAsIoe eno upayoga ghara tarIke karelo. ThaMDI, garamI, varasAda, barapha, vAvAjhoDuM, vIjaLI, hiMsaka jaMgalI prANIo vagere sAme emAM rakSaNa maLI zakatuM. pachI amerikana zikArIo AvyA. teo aMdara rahetA ane rAtane vakhate potAnA ghoDAone paNa aMdara bAMdhatA. ghoDAnA tabelA tarIke eno upayoga thato. paMdara-sattara ghoDA khuzIthI emAM rahI zake. pachI
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________________ 32 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 AvyA sAhasiko, zodhasapharIo, vepArIo vagere. teoe emAM khurazI Tebala goThavyAM. khANIpINInI resTorAM emAM thaI. dArUno bAra paNa thayo. tyAra pachI jyAre naeNzanala pArkanI sthApanA thaI tyAre A bhUgarbha-thaDagarbha pravRttio baMdha karAvavAmAM AvI. eka aitihAsika avazeSa tarIke enI jALavaNI cAlu thaI. A sikoyA vRkSa jIvatuM haze tyAre bicArAne kalpanA paNa nahi hoya ke enA avasAna pachI mAnavajAta enA peTamAM kevAM kevAM oNparezana karaze! bhomiyaNa hAkujA tyAra pachI amane laI gaI A pArkamAM be vayovRddha vaDIla rikavA pAse. ekane nAma ApavAmAM AvyuM che "janarala grAnTa sikoyA' bIjAnuM nAma che "janarala zeramAna sikoyA'. e bemAM zeramAna sikoyA siniyara yAne kAlayeSTha che. traNa hajAra karatAM vadhu varSathI te A pArkamAM hasatuM UbhuM che. duniyAmAM sauthI vadhu AyuSya bhogavI rahelA sikoyA tarIke enI gaNanA thAya che. enuM zarIra adodaLuM thaI gayuM che, paNa eno kArDiyogrAma naoNrmala che. te Azare 275 phUTa UMcuM che. jamIna para enA thaDano gherAvo 130 phUTa jeTalo che. enA samagra lAkaDAno aMdAja 1,400 Tana jeTalo mUkavAmAM Ave che. ApaNane prazna thAya ke ATalA badhA vanajavALuM ustaMga vRkSa bhayaMkara vAvAjhoDAmAM paNa UkhaDI na jatAM potAnI samatulA barAbara jALavIne kevI rIte UbhuM rahI zakatuM haze ? enuM kAraNa e che ke sikoyA potAnAM mULiyAMne barAbara majabUta rIte comera prasarAve che. samatulA jALavavA mATe UMDANa uparAMta vistAra paNa mahattvano che. enAM mULa jamInamAM cAra-pAMca phUTa jeTalAM nIce jAya che, paNa eka ekara jeTalA vistAramAM te prasare che. eTale ja AvuM rAkSasI vRkSa saikAo sudhI TaTAra UbhuM rahe che. hAkujAe kahyuM ke "sikoyA ApaNane samajAve che ke jIvanamAM samatulA jALavavI hoya to daDhamUla banavuM joIe." sikoyA ane reDavuDa vRkSa baMne eka ja jAtinAM geru raMganAM dIrghajIvI vRkSo che, chatAM, hAkujAe kahyuM ke sikoyA e reDavuDa nathI. vanaspatizAstrIo baMne vacceno taphAvata batAve che ke reDavuDa vadhAre UMcAM, pAtaLAM ane uparathI zaMku AkAranAM hoya che. tenuM AyuSya vadhumAM vadhu be hajAra varSanuM hoya che. sikoyA jADAM ane uparathI gucchAdAra hoya che ane traNa hajAra varSathI paNa vadhu jIvI zake che. reDavuDanAM bI TameTAMnAM bI jevAM hoya che. ane sikoyAnAM bI maganAM photarAM jevAM hoya che. eka paripakva sikoyA para ekasAthe dasa hajArathI vadhu DIMDavAM (cones) thAya che ane eka DIMDavAmAM basothI vadhu bI hoya che. kudaratanI kevI karAmata che te to juo ke maganA photarA jeTalA eka bIjamAMthI dasa lAkha kilogrAma karatAM vadhu vajananuM lAkaDuM dharAvatuM sikoyAnuM virATa vRkSa utpanna thAya che. sikoyA paNa lAkho bI kudaratane pAchAM Ape
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________________ sikoyAnI zikhAmaNa che. hAkujAe kahyuM, "sikoyAnuM vRkSa ApaNane upadeza Ape che ke kudarate tamane je premathI ApyuM che te aneka gaNuM karIne kudaratane pAchuM Apo. udAra bano, svArthI na bano. capaTI capaTI na Apo, mUThA ne mUThA bharIne athavA khobale khobale bIjAne Apo." vaLI hAkujAe kahyuM ke "sikoyAnuM vRkSa ApaNane zikhAmaNa Ape che ke jIvanamAM samatA jevuM koI tattva nathI. ThaMDI, garamI, varasAda barapha ane karA, vIjaLI ane vAvAjhoDuM, jaMgalanI Aga ane evA evA bhayaMkara upasargo sAme je svasthatAthI samatApUrvaka aNanama rahe che te ATaluM nirAmaya dIrdhAyuSya bhogave che. game tevI pratikULa paristhitino pratikArarahita svIkAra e jIvana jIvavAnI zreSTha cAvI che.' amane sikoyAnI zikhAmaNamAM bhAratIya tattvajJAnano dhabakAra saMbhaLAto hato. hAkujAe sikoyAnA jIvanamAMthI tAraveluM rahasya hRdayaMgama hatuM. enI sAthenI saphara pUrI karI ame sau mAhitI kendramAM AvyA. A kendramAM phoTAo, nakazAo, vividha cIjavastuonuM nAnA saMgrahasthAna jevuM Ayojana thayeluM che. ame e jovAmAM magna hatA tyAM mAika upara jAherAta thaI : "sajjano ane sannArIo ! amAre atyAre pAMca miniTanI eka aupacArika vidhi karavAnI che, to Apa badhAne amArA kAunTara pAse padhAravA vinaMtI che.' zI vidhi karavAnI haze enI khabara nahotI, paNa badhA pravAsIo ekatra thavA lAgyA ane utsukatApUrvaka rAha jovA lAgyA. tyAM mAikamAM jAherAta thaI : "arcita ane acirA jyAM hoya tyAMthI kAunTara pAse Ave." ame vicAramAM paDyAM. arcita-acirAne ame tyAM mokalyAM evAmAM eka ophisara AvyA. temaNe jAherAta karI : "Aje ApaNe bALakono je varga lIdho hato ane praznapatrikA ApI hatI, te badhI amArI pAse AvI gaI che ane tapAsAI gaI che. amane jaNAvatA AnaMda thAya che ke arcita ane acirA A baMne bALakone somAMthI so mArksa maLe che. eTale baMnene "juniyara renjara evaoNrDa maLe che. baMnene te mATe ame billo paherAvIzuM. pachI aciMtana Raven Award paherAvavAmAM Avyo, jemAM Raven (kAgaDo)nuM citra hatuM ane acirAne Jay Award paherAvavAmAM Avyo, jemAM Jay (koyala jevuM pakSI)nuM citra hatuM. tALIonA gaDagaDATathI saue A vidhi vadhAvI lIdhI. bALakone protsAhita karavA mATe pArkanA adhikArIonuM A kevuM dRSTipUrvakanuM suMdara Ayojana ! sikoyA pArkanA pravAsano A anubhava amArA mATe smRtimAM saMgharI rAkhavA jevo banI gayo.
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________________ bADuMgano javALAmukhI - TAMkubAna parAhu inDoneziyA eTale saLaMga eka pradezanuM nahi paNa dviIpasamUha(Archipelago)nuM rASTra. eka cheDe bhAratIya mahAsAgaramAM maleziyA pAsethI zarU karIne bIje cheDe dakSiNa pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM oNsTreliyA sudhI patharAyelA A rASTranA sAtasothI adhika TApuomAM sumAtrA, jAvA, bAlI, kAlimaMtana vagere mukhya che ane temAM paNa rAjakIya, Arthika ane lokasaMkhyAnI dRSTie jovAnuM prabhutva che. vIsamI sadInA pUrvArdhane aMte briTiza sattAnI jema Daca sattAne paNa eziyAmAMnAM potAnAM saMsthAno choDI devAM paDyAM hatAM. Daca sattAnI vidAya pachI e saMsthAnonI punaracanA eTale inDoneziyA. inDoneziyA eTale jvALAmukhI parvatono deza. tyAM cArasothI adhika javALAmukhI che. mAtra jAvAmAM ja ekasothI vadhu che ane temAM pAMtrIsa to sakriya (Active) che, eTale ke game tyAre phATe. bIjA badhA TharI gayelA che. gUmaDuM phATe ane rasI nIkaLI jAya pachI tyAM jema khADo thaI jAya tema javALAmukhI phATe ane lAvArasa nIkaLI jAya pachI te TharI jatAM tyAM je moTo kaMIka vartuLAkAra khADo thaI jAya ene droNa (Crater) kahe che. inDoneziyAnA pATanagara ane jAvAnA mukhya zahera jakArtA(jAkArtA, vAkArtA)thI amAro kAryakrama bADuMga zahera ane enI pAse AvelA jvALAmukhI TAMkubAna parAhu (prAhu, barAhu) jovA javAno hato, paNa pravAsamAM keTalIka vAra nAnI sarakhI pratikULatA kAryakramane anizcita banAvI de che. AgalI sAMje cAlu thayelo joradAra varasAda te divase savAre paNa cAlu ja hato. pariNAme bADuMgano kAryakrama amAre mAMDI vALavo paDyo. cA-nAsto karIne ame hoTelamAM ja nirAMte laTAra mAratA hatA tyAM sADAnava vAge amArA gAiDano phona Avyo ke "varasAda rahI gayo che. haju paNa bAlDaMga jaI zakAya, jo tame tarata nIkaLI zako ema ho ane pAchA pharatAM rAtanA bAra-eka vAgI jAya eno vAMdho na hoya to." ame mitroe mAMhomAMhe vicAra karIne tarata saMmati jaNAvI dIdhI. jakArtAthI bADuMganuM aMtara Azare baso kilomITaranuM, paNa vacce vacce nAnA rastA ane TrAphika vadhAre eTale eTaluM aMtara kApatAM paNa ghaNI vAra lAge. ame tarata
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________________ bADuMganI jvALAmukhI-TAMgyubAna parAhu 35 nIkaLyA, paNa pAMceka kilomITara sudhI to gADIonI lAMbI hAra ane dareka signalane salAma karavA thobhavAnuM. vacce amArA gAiDa mi. emAM paNa joDAI gayA. rastAmAM "apUrvakartA' nAmanuM gAma AvyuM. tyAMthI ame vaLAMka lIdho. jAvA, sumAtrA, bAlI vageremAM rAmAyaNanA kALanI saMskRti ane saMskRta bhASAno prabhAva tyAMnAM keTalAMka vizeSa nAmomAM haju paNa jovA maLe che. A vistAramAM rabaranAM vRkSo ghaNAM thAya che. eka sthaLe gADI UbhI rAkhIne ame e vRkSomAMthI TapakatA dUdhane loko kevI rIte ekaThuM karI le che te najare nihALyuM. AgaLa jatAM subAMga nAmanA gAma pAse ame lIlA nAriyeLanuM pANI pIdhuM. be hAthamAM pakaDavuM paDe eTalA moTA jaMgabArI nAriyeLamAMthI cAra-pAMca glAsa jeTaluM pANI nIkaLe. eka ja nAriyeLamAMthI ATaluM badhuM pANI jiMdagImAM kyAreya pIdhuM nathI. vaLI nAriyeLa kApavAnI rIta anokhI. upara nAnuM kANuM karavAmAM Ave evuM nahi. uparathI traNeka iMca pahoLuM ane eTaluM ja lAMbuM cosaluM kApavAmAM Ave ke je DhAMkaNA jevuM kAma kare. aMdara mUThI mAya eTaluM pahoLuM. nAriyeLamAM barapha nAkhIne Ape. joIe to aMdara zarabata paNa nAkhI Ape. ane eka nAriyeLanA rUpiyA keTalA ? traNa hajAra. paNa UbhA raho. e inDoneziyAnA rUpiyA. tyAMnuM calaNa rUpiyA che. paNa atyAre tyAM sakhata phugAvo che. tyAMnA traNa hajAra rUpiyA eTale ApaNA paMdareka rUpiyA. ghaNuM sastuM kahevAya. subAMganA cAra rastA pAse vaDanuM moTuM ghaTAdAra vRkSa hatuM. gAiDe kahyuM, inDoneziyAmAM ghaNe sthaLe jyAM cAra rastA bhegA thAya tyAM tamane vaDanuM jhADa jovA maLaze. cArebAju vaDavAIo prasarAvanAra vaDa ahIM ekatAnA pratIka tarIke manAya che. eTale cAra rastA-cokaDI jyAM hoya tyAM vaDa na hoya to loko ugADe che." amArI gADI AgaLa vadhatI hatI. have amAre nirNaya levAno hato ke pahelAM bADuMga javuM ke pahelAM garama pANInA kuMDa ane jvALAmukhI tarapha javuM. gAiDe kahyuM ke, ApaNe moDA nIkaLyA chIe, eTale sAMje pAMca vAge jvALAmukhIno vistAra baMdha thAya te pahelAM ApaNe tyAM pahoMcI javuM joIe. amArI gADI e raste cAlI. rastAnI baMne bAju nAnAM nAnAM beThA ghATanAM makAno hatAM. enAM bArIbAraNAM, chAparAM, naLiyAM vageremAM Daca sthApatyano aNasAra varatAto hato. rasto UMce caDato gayo ane ThaMDI havAne nimaMtraNa deto gayo. anukrame pAMceka hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe ame pahoMcI gayA. ATalI UMcAI, havA ane phaLadrupa jamIna cA ugADavA mATe anukULa gaNAya. Daca loko ahIM cA laI AvyA. rastAnI baMne bAju cAnA moTA moTA bagIcA hatA. jyAM jvALAmukhI hoya tyAM najIkamAM kyAMka garama pANInAM jharaNAM hoya ja. jamInanA peTALamAM rahelA gaMdhakanA tharamAMthI pasAra thatuM pANI garama hoya ane emAM
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________________ 36 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 gaMdhakanI vattIochI vAsa Ave ja. kyAMka e pANIne vALI laIne kuMDa banAvavAmAM Ave che ane evA kuMDa sAthe hoTela, kalaba ke rijhorTano vyavasAya paNa vikase che. TAMkubAna parAhu jvALAmukhI pAse ciATara nAmanA sthaLe "ciATara spA' (Ciater Spa) nAmano rijhorTa che. AvA rijhorTa moMghA hoya ane sabhya na hoya teNe to praveza-phI paNa ApavI paDe. e bharIne paNa rijhorTamAM javuM ema badhAe TharAvyuM, kAraNa ke pharI pAchA kyAre A bAju ame AvavAnA hatA ? ame ciATaramAM dAkhala thayA. saMkulanuM vAtAvaraNa ramaNIya hatuM. AsapAsa nAnAmoTA DuMgarAo vRkSothI AcchAdita hatA. cArebAju phaLadrupa, lIlAMchama khetaro hatAM. vAdaLiyuM AkAza ane zItala havAnI laherakhIo hatI. eka bAju khullAmAM cAra moTA moTA kuMDa bAjubAjumAM banAvelA hatA. koI chIcharA pANInA ane koI UMDA pANInA, koI sAdhAraNa garama pANInA ane koI vadhAre garama pANInA. potAne mAphaka Ave emAM svecchAe nAhI zakAya. ekamAMthI bIjAmAM jaI zakAya. keTalAka mANaso emAM nAhI rahyA hatA. gaMdhakavALA garama pANInuM snAna Arogya mATe sAruM, paraMtu meM mArA mitrone cetavyA ke emAM jhAjho vakhata na havAya, kAraNa ke ethI mAthuM bhame ane cakkara Ave. amArA gAiDe pUchayuM ke, "tame jo kuMDamAM snAna karavAnA ho to DrAivara ane huM bahAra bhojana karI AvIe ane namAja paDhI AvIe." ame saMmati ApI. kuMDano daravAjo resTorAMmAM thaIne hato. tyAM bAtharUma, lokara vagerenI sagavaDa hatI. gAiDa te batAvavA Avyo. kuMDamAM snAna karavA mATe TikiTa to ame lIdhI, paraMtu te mATe kaoNTyUma joIe te phakta mArI pAse ja hato. klabamAM kaoNTyUma maLe, paNa te bhADe na maLe, kharIdavo paDe. navA komyuma kharIdAyA. te paherIne kapaDAM tathA pAkITa, ghaDiyALa vagere jokhama ame lokaramAM mUkI enI cAvI kaoNscamanI dorIe bAMdhI. eka mitrane vAra lAge ema hatI, eTale emaNe potAnAM kapaDAM-jokhamanI thelI gAiDane laoNkaramAM mUkavA mATe ApI ane kahyuM ke, "cAvI hojanI sAmenI pALI upara mUkajo ke jethI hojamAMthI nIkaLIne tarata laI zakAya." ame hajI taiyAra thaI makAnanI bahAra hoja tarapha javA daravAjA pAse pahoMcIe tyAM to acAnaka muzaLadhAra varasAda tUTI paDyo. varasAdanuM pANI evuM ThaMDuMgAra ke hoja sudhI pahoMcatAM ja dhUjI jaIe. hojamAM hatA te badhA bahAra nIkaLI doDIne makAnamAM AvI gayA. daseka miniTa rAha joI paNa varasAda baMdha na rahyo. vyavasthApake kahyuM ke, "hojamAM javuM hoya to chatrI lAvI ApuM." kaoNTyUma kharIdyA che te palALavA to joIzene ? ame chatrI sAthe bahAra nIkaLyA ane chatrI mUkIne ghUMTaNa sudhInA pANIvALA hojamAM dAkhala thayA ke tarata ja amAre besI javuM paDyuM, kAraNa ke
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________________ bADuMgano jvALAmukhI-TAMgyubAna parAhu khullA zarIre zItala vRSTi asahya lAgatI hatI. to paNa mastake zItalatA ane caraNomAM uSNatA evA be anubhava ekasAthe thavA lAgyA. mane amArA jainomAM AvatI gaMgAcAryanI vAtanuM smaraNa thayuM. teo chIcharI nadImAM cAlIne sAme kinAre potAnA gurune vaMdana karavA jatA hatA tyAre unALAnI bhayaMkara garamImAM TAlavALA mastake uSNatA ane caraNomAM pANInI zItalatA anubhavAtI hatI. ekasAthe be skUla paraspara viruddha anubhavo thAya, paraMtu jainadarzana kahe che ke cittamAM eka ja samaye be upayoga na hoI zake. mana eTaluM sUkSma che ane zIdhra saMcaraNazIla che, eTale ke eka sekaMDanA asaMkhyAtamA bhAgamAM upayoga eTalA jhaDapathI badalAya che ke mANasane ema lAge ke ekasAthe be anubhava thAya che. hojamAM amArA mastaka upara vRSTiprahAra eTalo joradAra hato ke traNacAra. miniTathI vadhu ame tyAM TakI na zakyA. tarata chatrI laIne pAchA doDI AvyA. laoNkaramAMthI kapaDAM laI sajja thaI ame resTorAMmAM cA-nAsto karavA beThA. paNa amArA eka mitra AvyA nahi. emanI cAvI maLatI nahotI. eTale tarata UThIne chatrI laIne ame cAvI zodhavA nIkaLyA. gAiDe cAvI jyAM mUkI haze tyAMthI varasatA varasAdamAM kyAMka taNAI gaI haze. snAnAgArane pANImAM ane AsapAsa bahu tapAsa karI paNa cAvI maLI nahi. resTorAMnA karmacArIo paNa madade AvyA. klaba pAse bIjI cAvI nahotI. have laoNkara toDavA sivAya bIjo koI rasto nahoto. niyama mujaba enI je rakama thatI hoya te ApavA ame tatparatA batAvI. chevaTe AvA kAmanA anubhavI be veITaro charI, kAMTA ane camacA laI AvyA ane lAkaDAnA lAMkaranA bAraNAmAM eka pachI eka bharAvatA jaIne aMte evI jorathI bhIMsa ApI ke bAraNuM khUlI gayuM. amArI upAdhino aMta Avyo ane veiTaro bakSisanA adhikArI banyA. have savAla rahyo guma thayelI cAvIno cArja bharavAno. keTalA rUpiyA laI zakAya e vize karmacArIo mAMhomAMhe masalata karatA hatA tyAM amArI gADI AvyAno avAja saMbhaLAyo. ame vyavasthApakane kahyuM, "be miniTa thobho. gAiDa Avato lAge che. cAvI mUkavAnI jagyAmAM kaMI samajaphera thaI hoya to e zodhavAmAM madada karaze.' gAiDane jotAM ja pUchyuM, 'emI, pachI tame lokaranI cAvI kyAM mUkI hatI ? bahu zodhI paNa maLI nahi. laoNkara kholAvavuM paDyuM." laoNkaranI cAvI ? e vicAramAM paDyo pachI khissAmAM hAtha nAkhatAM ja laoNkaranI cAvI nIkaLI. kahyuM, "oha, utAvaLamAM huM cAvI mUkavAnuM ja bhUlI gayo. bhUla thaI gaI. mApha karajo."
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________________ 38 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe Ama cAvInI samasyAno sukhada aMta Avyo. ame cApANI letA hatA eTalI vAramAM to varasAda baMdha thaI gayo. ughADa nIkaLyo. jANe amane aTakAvavA mATe ja varasAde tophAna na macAvyuM hoya ! 'javuM che bIjI vAra nAhavA ?' eka mitre prazna karyo. 'paNa pharIthI TikiTa levI paDaze enuM zuM ?' bIjA mitre kahyuM. 'nA, nahi levI paDe. A TikiTamAM ja tame pharIthI jaI zakazo.' pAse UbhelA vyavasthApake amArI vAta sAMbhaLIne javAba Apyo. bhAga 3 'hA, e to kharuM, paNa kaoNscyuma paherIe tyAM sudhImAM pharI varasAda nahi paDe enI khAtarI che ?' eka mitre majAkamAM kahyuM. paNa gAiDa emInI vAta mahattvanI hatI. eNe kahyuM, 'ApaNe tarata ja nIkaLavuM joIe, nahi to pachI jvALAmukhI jovAnuM gumAvazuM.' kSaNanA paNa vilaMba vinA ame gADImAM besI gayA. jvALAmukhI ta2pha prayANa karyuM. rasto caDhANavALo hato. aMtara jhAjhuM nahotuM, paNa pahoMcavA AvyA tyAre pAMca upara pAMca miniTa thaI gaI hatI. A vistAramAM pAMca vAgyA pachI vAhanonA pravezanI baMdhI hatI. vAhano aTakAvavA mATeno rastA vacceno dAMDo pADIne cokIdAre tALuM mArI dIdhuM hatuM. eTale amArI gADI UbhI rahI gaI. evAmAM pAse ja cokIdAra pharato dekhAyo. gAiDe potAnI bhASAmAM ene vAta karI. videzathI mahemAno AvyA che ane pharI ahIM AvavAnA nathI. phakta bepAMca miniTanuM ja moDuM thayuM che, paraMtu cokIdAranI AnAkAnI sakAraNa hatI. garIba dezomAM maherabAnInA badalAmAM maherabAnInI apekSA rahe ja. gAiDe ApelI bakSisathI te rAjI thayo. dAMDo UMco thaI gayo ane amArI gADI jvALAmukhI sudhI pahoMcI gaI. cha hajAra jeTalA phUTanI UMcAIe AvelA A jvALAmukhI parvatanuM nAma che 'TAMkubAna parAhu' nAma kaMIka vicitra lAge, paNa yathArtha che. 'TAMkubAna' eTale UMdhuM Upside Down. 'parAhu' eTale hoDI athavA vahANa. TAMkubAna parAhu eTale UMdhI vaLI gayelI hoDI. emIe jvALAmukhIno paricaya Apyo. A jvALAmukhI haju sakriya che. 1969mAM e phATyo hato tyAre dUra dUra sudhI lAlacoLa lAvArasa UDyo hato ane ghaNuM nukasAna thayuM hatuM. ame eka UMcI jagyAethI vizALa UMDA droNa-(Crater)nAM darzana karyAM. kevI enI karAla bhavyatA ! emAM AchA lIlA raMganuM pANI bhareluM taLAva hatuM. Akho khADo bharAI jAya to jANe moTA sarovara jevuM lAge. emIe amane
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________________ 39 bAjuMgano jvALAmukhI-TAMkubAna parAhu droNanI eka bAjunA parvatanAM zikharano AkAra nihALavA kahyuM. pUchyuM ke, "kaMI kalpanA ke anumAna karI zako cho ?' amArI kalpanA bahu cAlI nahi eTale eNe ja kahyuM, "emAM tamane koI UMdhI vaLI gayelI moTI hoDI jevo AkAra dekhAya che ?' hA, have tame kahyuM eTale barAbara UMdhI moTI hoDI jevo AkAra dekhAya che." nIce sarovara ane enI upara UMdhI hoDI jevo dekhAva eTale ja javALAmukhInuM nAma paDyuM, 'TAMkubAna parAhu' keTalAka loko prAhu, brAhu, barAhu paNa bole che." A jvALAmukhI vize - sarovara ane hoDI vize eka rasika purANakathA jAvAmAM che. "to kahone..' ahIM UbhAM UbhAM e kahevAmAM majA nahi Ave. gADImAM huM tamane kahIza, bAnDaMga choDyA pachI.' ame cAlyA bADuMga tarapha. jvALAmukhIno adhikRta sarakArI vistAra pUro thatAM ja rastAnI eka bAjue garIba lokonAM hArabaMdha jhUpaDAM joyAM. sakriya javALAmukhInA droNanI bAjumAM ghara karIne rahevuM eTale keTaluM moTuM jokhama ! paNa duniyAmAM ghaNe sthaLe garIba loko khasatAM khasatAM AvA jokhamI sthaLa sudhI pahoMcI jAya che. jvALAmukhI kaMI roja nathI phATato. pacIsa, pacAsa ke so varSe phATe to phATe. phATe tyAranI vAta che ne. AvA vizvAsa sAthe teo nirbhayapaNe rahe che. have rarasto nIce UtaravA lAgyo. thoDI vAramAM ame aDhI hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe AvelA bADuMga zaheramAM pahoMcI gayA. Daca lokoe pazcima jAvAnA A raLiyAmaNA zaherane havAkhAvAnA eka sthaLa tarIke vikasAvyuM hatuM. eTale ja "bADuMga eTale jAvAnuM perisa', 'bADuMga eTale puSpanagarI" jevI lokokti pracalita thayelI che. bADuMganI havA ja kaMIka judI che. e be vALAmukhInI vacce AveluM zahera che, paNa salAmata aMtare. A zaheranI naisargika ramaNIyatA ane zItaLatAne kAraNe ja inDoneziyAnA pramukha sukarNoe 1955mAM eziyA ane AphrikAnAM svataMtra thayelAM rASTronI pariSada bolAvI hatI jemAM ApaNA javAharalAla neharue mahattvanI doravaNI ApI hatI. ame e pariSadanA sthaLe pahoMcyA. e bhavananuM nAma che "gedAMga maraDekA". "maraDakA' eTale svAtaMtrya ane "gedAMga' eTale bhavana. pariSadanA mahemAnonA utArA mATe sAme tyAre navI hoTela bAMdhavAmAM AvI hatI "sevoya homAna'. rastAnuM nAma paNa "eziyA-AphrikA roDa' rAkhavAmAM AvyuM che. ame A badhuM joyuM ane bADuMganI prakhyAta jIna sTrITa paNa joI. rAtanA ATheka vAgavA AvyA hatA. jANe amArA nagaradarzanano kAryakrama pUrI thavAnI rAha joto hoya tema ame gADImAM beThA
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________________ 40 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 ane vIjaLInA kaDAkA sAthe varasAda tUTI paDyo. varSAsnAna karatAM karatAM amArI gADIe bADuMga choDyuM ane gAiDe TAMkubAna parAhunI daMtakathA cAlu karI : atyaMta prAcIna samayamAM A pradezano rAjA jaMgalamAM zikAra karavA nIkaLyo. e potAnA ghoDA upara ghUmato hato tyAM dUrathI madhura dhvani saMbhaLAyo. koI strIno kaMTha hato. rAjA e dizAmAM tyAM pahoMcyo to apsarA jevI eka yuvatI gAI rahI hatI. rAjA ene maLyo ane vAtacIta karI. yuvatInuM nAma dayAMga. ene devonuM varadAna hatuM ke enuM rUpa ane eno kaMTha kAyama evAM ja rahe. rAjAne yuvatI gamI gaI. paraNavAnI vAta thaI. yuvatIe saMmati ApI eTale rAjA ene potAnA nagaramAM laI gayo. dayAMga have rANI banI.' paraMtu durbhAgye thoDA vakhatamAM ja evI ghaTanA banI ke rAjyamAM marakIno rogacALo phATI nIkaLyo ane mANaso maravA lAgyA. lokone vahema paDyo ke dayAMganA AvavAthI ja Ama thayuM che. te apazukaniyALa che. kadAca eNe ja rogacALo phelAvyo che. lokonA virodhano vaMToLa moTo thatAM rAjAne lAgyuM ke dayAMgane jaMgalamAM pAchI mUkI AvuM. dayAMgane vAta karI. eNe kahyuM, "bhale, jevI tamArI marajI. paNa jaMgalamAM mAro samaya pasAra thAya e mATe kapaDuM, dorI, soya vagere Apo. huM beThI beThI sIvyA karIza.vaLI vastImAM rahyA pachI have tyAM mane ekalatA lAgaze. koIne mokalo ke je mArI sAthe rahe ane mArI saMbhALa rAkhe.' paNa jaMgalamAM rahevA koNa jAya ? rAjAe chevaTe potAno eka priya kUtaro enI sAthe mokalyo. dayAMga jaMgalamAM rahevA lAgI ane kapaDAM sIvavA lAgI. kUtaro enI saMbhALa rAkhato. eka divasa kapaDuM sIvatAM pavanano jhapATo Avyo ane dayAMganI soya hAthamAMthI paDI gaI. te bahu mUMjhAI gaI. ghaNI tapAsa karI paNa soya maLI nahi. thoDA divasa thayA ane soya maLI nahi eTale eka divasa eNe ucca svare jAhera karyuM ke je koI mArI soya zodhI Apaze tenI sAthe huM lagna karIza. paNa tyAM soya zodhI AranAra koI hatuM nahi. evAmAM eka divasa kUtaro soya zodhIne potAnA moDhAmAM leto Avyo ane dayAMganA hAthamAM mUkI. dayAMgane soya maLyAno AnaMda hato, paNa have potAnA vacananuM zuM? te vacanabaddha rahevA icchatI hatI. eTale eNe kUtarA sAthe lagna karyA ane kUtarAne potAnA patinI jema rAkhavA lAgI. keTalAka vakhata pachI dayAMga kUtarAthI sagarbhA banI ane eNe eka putrane janma Apyo. enuM nAma rAkhyuM meMga. putra paNa dayAMga jevo ja rUpALo ane tejasvI hato. dayAMga, kUtaro ane seMga sAthe rahevA lAgyAM. ema karatAM seMga yuvAna thayo. te roja kUtarAne laIne zikAra karavA jato. eNe niyama lIdho ke roja eka zikAra avazya
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________________ 41 bADuMgano jvALAmukhI-TAMgyubAna parA karavo. eka divasa koI zikAra maLyo nahi eTale eNe potAnA kUtarAno ja zikAra karyo. sAMje e pAcho ekalo Avyo tyAre mAe prazna karyo, "kUtaro kyAM ?' meMge khulAso karyo ke pote potAno niyama sAcavavA kUtarAne mArI nAkhyo che. dayAMgane bahu AghAta lAgyo. eNe kahyuM, "seMga, te A zuM karyuM ? A kUtaro tAro pitA thAya. teM tArA pitAno vadha karyo ?' bolatAM bolatAM dayAMgane gusso caDyo. eNe pAse paDelo, nAriyeLanI aNIdAra kAcalIvALo camaco seMganA mAthAmAM evo jorathI phaTakAryo ke mAthAmAM UMDo ghA paDyo ane lohI nIkaLyuM. eNe seMgane jaMgala choDIne cAlyA javA kahyuM. seMga tyAMthI bhAgI gayo. ema karatAM ghaNAM varSo vahI gayAM, seMgane paNa evuM devI varadAna maLyuM ke enuM rUpa evuM ja rahe ane devo ene sahAya kare. eka divasa seMga pharato pharato dayAMga rahetI hatI te bAju AvI caDyo. baMne ekabIjAne oLakhI zakyA nahi. apsarA jevI dayAMgane jotAM ja te enA premamAM paDyo. lagna karavAnI vAta karI. dayAMge saMmati ApI. e vakhate seMga mAthuM khaMjavALato hato. dayAMge kahyuM, "tArA mAthAmAM jU paDI che. lAva, tane mAthuM oLI ApuM." seMga mAthuM oLAvavA beTho. e vakhate dayAMge seMganA mAthAmAM ghAno khADo joyo, nAriyeLanI kAcalI jevo. te vicAre caDI gaI. juvAna mANasanA mastakamAM ghAno khADo kema ? tyAM ene yAda AvyuM ke A to potAno ja dIkaro che. dayAMga seMgane tarata kahyuM, "seMga, ApaNe lagna nahi karI zakIe. huM tArI mA chuM. tuM mAro dIkaro che.' seMge kahyuM, "te lagna karavAnuM vacana ApyuM ane tuM pharI jAya che ane bahAnAM kADhe che. huM tArI sAthe lagna karIza ja. A mAro aphara nirNaya che." dayAMne joyuM ke seMga mAnato nathI, te makkama che, eTale eNe seMgane kahyuM, "bhale seMga, huM tArI sAthe lagna karIza, paNa eka zarate. tuM ahIM mane eka sarasa moTuM sarovara karAvI Apa ane emAM ApaNe sukhethI rahI zakIe evI moTI hoDI karAvI Apa. tane devonI sahAya che. prabhAte kUkaDo bole te pahelAM badhuM saMpUrNa thaI javuM joIe.' seMge zarata maMjUra rAkhI. aMdhAruM thAya pachI devo sahAya karavA Ave ane prabhAta thatAM pahelAM cAlyA jAya. seMganI sUcanA pramANe aMdhAruM thatAM devoe kAma cAlu karyuM. dayAMgane thayuM ke kAma to ghaNuM moTuM che, paNa jo te pUruM thAya to vacana pramANe potAne dIkarA sAthe lagna karavA paDaze. eNe aDadhI rAte AsapAsanA lokone uThADyA ane kahyuM ke tame ghaMTI daLavAnuM cAlu karo ane ghaNAM badhAM lAkaDAM saLagAvo. lAkaDAMnA agninA bhaDakAthI AkAza lAla thaI gayuM. vaLI ghaMTIno avAja Avyo, eTale kUkaDA
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________________ 42 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 bolavA lAgyA. kUkaDAno avAja sAMbhaLI, have ajavALuM thaze ema mAnI devo aMtardhAna thaI gayA. seMganuM hoDInuM kAma jarAka mATe adhUruM rahI gayuM. eTale seMga nirAza thaI gayo. A bAju dayAMgane thayuM ke e rakhene seMga kaMI baLajabarI kare to ? enA karatAM maravuM sAruM. ema vicArI eNe sarovaramAM paDatuM mUkyuM ane jaLasamAdhi lIdhI. e joI seMgane pastAvo thayo ke 'arere, meM mArI mAtA pratye kevI kudRSTi karI. dhikkAra che mane.' ema pazcAttApa karatAM karatAM seMge lAta mArIne hoDIne UMdhI vALI dIdhI ane pote paNa sarovaramAM jhaMpalAvyuM ane jIvanano aMta ANyo. gAiDe kahyuM, 'Ama, jvALAmukhInA zikharano UMdhI hoDI jevo je AkAra che tenI pAchaLa AvI daMtakathA rahelI che. eTale jvALAmukhInuM nAma TAMggubAna parA -- UMdhI hoDI evuM paDI gayuM che.' AkhA divasano thAka hato, paNa gAiDe rasapUrvaka kahelI daMtakathAe, hoTela 52 pahoMcatAM rAtanA sADAbAra vAgyA to paNa AMkhanuM maTakuM mAravA dIdhuM nahi.
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________________ slonuM avanavuM duniyAnAM keTalAMka zAnta, suMdara, sukhI zaheromAM naoNrvenA pATanagara oNstone gaNAvI zakAya. yuropanA dezomAM uttare AvelA naoNrvenuM bhaugolika sthAna viziSTa che. eno trIjo bhAga dhruvavartuLa(Arctic circle mAM Avelo che. sakhata ThaMDInA A dezamAM ziyALAmAM to baraphamAM sAhasika prakAranI vividha ramato ramavA khaDatala zokhIno nIkaLI paDe. dara varSe keTalAye ghavAya, koIka mRtyu pAme, paNa sAhasikatAno jusso ocho na thAya. naoNrve-svIDanamAM bhaugolika vistAra moTo, paNa vastI pAMkhI. Azare aDadhA corasa kilomITare eka mANasanI sarerAza Ave. ethI zahero sivAya anyatra gharo chUTAMchavAyAM. pariNAme loko ekAMtapriya. A ekAMtapriyatA ekalatAmAM pariName tyAre mAnasika samasyAo UbhI thAya, gunAo thAya. ekaMdare prajA buddhizALI, zAnta, samaju ane DAhI, chatAM duniyAmAM ApadhAtanuM sauthI vadhu sarerAza pramANa A dezomAM che. keTalAka prakAranI ghaTanAo to jagatamAM rojeroja kyAMka ne kyAMka banatI rahe che, paraMtu e jyAre amuka pradezamAM, amuka prajAmAM bane tyAre te ApaNane navAI pamADe che. eka vakhata oslomAM ame pUrA covIsa kalAka paNa nahotA, paNa tyAre je joyuM - anubhavyuM te yAda rahI jAya evuM hatuM. - ame laMDanathI slo thaIne uttara naoNrvenI saphare jaI rahyA hatA. oNstonA navA eraporTa para UtarI svayaMsaMcAlita Trena dvArA zaheramAM amArI hoTelamAM pahoMcI gayA. thoDAM varSomAM A dezanI samRddhimAM keTalI vRddhi thaI che tenI jhAMkhI karAvavA eraporTa ane Trenano anubhava pUrato hato. sAMja paDavA AvI hatI, paNa unALAnA divaso hatA eTale ahIM jANe haju bapora hoya evuM lAgatuM hatuM. oNslomAM unALAmAM sUryAsta rAtanA daseka vAgyA pachI thAya. naoNrva- svIDananI uttare to madharAte paNa sUrya sAme nahi, ghaDiyALa sAme joIne bhojana karavA besavuM paDe. amArI hoTelamAM zAkAhArI bhojana amane khape evuM nahotuM eTale tapAsa karIne bahAra eka resTorAMmAM javAnuM ame vicAryuM. TrAmamAM besIne resTorAMnI najIka ame UtaryA.
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________________ 44 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 ame phUTapAtha para cAlatAM cAlatAM resTorAMnI dizAmAM jaI rahyA hatA, tyAM mArA mitre kahyuM, "UbhA raho, tyAM kaMI dhamAla lAge che. be mANaso resTorAMnA daravAjAmAMthI barADA pADatA nIkaLyA. kaMIka mArAmArI thaI che evuM amane lAgyuM. ame tyAM ja thaMbhI gayA. baMne mANasonA paheraveza parathI lAgyuM ke teo resTorAMnA ja veiTa2 haze ! thoDIka kSaNomAM citra kaMIka spaSTa thayuM. be veiTaro vacce A mArAmArI nahotI, paNa eka veiTara barADato hato ane bIjo enA hAtha pakaDI ene aTakAvato hato ane samajAvato hato. barADiyA veiTarane dArUno nazo caDyo haze evuM enA avAja parathI lAgatuM hatuM. zarAbI nazAmAM mANasa ugna thAya tyAre eno avAja badalAI jAya che. evAmAM e veiTare potAnI TopI kADhIne resTorAMnA daravAjA tarapha eno ghA karyo. evAmAM bIjA be veiTaro bahAra AvyA ane pelA veiTarane zAnta pADavA dhamAcakaDImAM joDAyA. paNa barADiyo veiTara UMco, kadAvara ane jabaro hato. emAM vaLI madirApAnanA madathI gherAyelo hato. sAthI veiTarono vAravAno prayatna niSphaLa banAvIne eNe potAnuM zarTa kADhIne phagAvI dIdhuM. pachI eNe potAnuM penTa kADhavAnuM zarU karyuM. emAM jhapAjhapI ThIka ThIka thaI. dArUDiyo veiTara emAM paNa phAvyo ane penTa kADhIne eNe resTorAMnA daravAjAmAM pheMkyuM. te sAva nagna thaI gayo. enA A kRtya parathI ane vAraMvAra resTorAM tarapha AMgaLI karIne potAnI bhASAmAM e je rIte barADato hato enA uparathI evo artha nIkaLato hato ke nathI karavI mAre tamArI nokarI. laI lyo A tamAro Dresa pAcho.' traNe veiTaro khasiyANA paDI gayA. penTa lAvIne ene DhAMkavAno prayatna karavA lAgyA, paNa te vyartha nIvaDato. evAmAM polIsanI gADI AvI pahoMcI. be polIse nagna veiTarane potAnI gADImAM dhakelI dIdho ane eno paheraveza paNa apAI gayo. polIsanI gADI gaI ane jANe kazuM banyuM nathI evuM vAtAvaraNa thaI gayuM. amane Azcarya e thayuM ke rADArADanI AvI ghaTanA banI, paNa jatA AvatA koI paNa rAhadArI tyAM ekatra thayA nahi. "tamAzAne teDuM na hoya' e kahevata ahIM khoTI paDI hatI, jANe ke koIne kazI nisbata ja nahi. prekSakavargamAM mAtra ame be mitro ja hatA. vastutaH ame ghaTanA jovA gayA nahotA, paNa amArA mArgamAM tamAzo thatAM ame UbhA rahI gayA hatA. cAlatAM cAlatAM ame veiTarone pUchyuM to jANavA maLyuM ke e veiTa2 vastuta: resTorAMmAM Diza-vaoNziMganuM kAma kare che. thoDA vakhata pahelAM e Diza-vaoNzaranI patnI ene choDIne bIjA koI sAthe paraNI gaI che. tyArathI ene ekalatA sAle che. roja
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________________ 45 slonuM avanavuM dArU pIne kAma karavA Ave che. Aje vadhAre paDato DhIMcIne Avyo hato. ethI vyavasthApakoe ene Thapako Apyo. eTale bhAIsA'ba nokarI choDIne nIkaLI gayA, eno TUMko vRttAnta sAMbhaLIne mane vicAra Avyo ke A sukhI dezamAM paNa kevI kevI ghaTanAo bane che! raheThANa, vastro ane khAvAnuM sukha hoya ethI jIvananI badhI samasyAono aMta AvI jato nathI. vaLI vicAra e paNa Avyo ke be mANasa jhaghaDatA hoya to vacce paDIne temane choDAvavA-samajAvavAnuM baMdhukRtya karavAno vicAra badhAne mAnya nathI hoto. je dezamAM polIsanI kAryadakSa sevA tvarita hoya tyAM bIjAnI sevAnI jarUra nathI rahetI. pagathiyAM caDIne ame resTorAMmAM dAkhala thayA. aMdaranuM vAtAvaraNa yathAvat hatuM. je resTorAMmAM thoDI miniTa pahelAM dhamAla macI gaI tyAM e vize koI kazI vAta karatuM nahotuM. sau potapotAnA kAmamAM magna hatA. aniSTa ghaTanAnAM koI spaMdano nahotAM. vizALa pravezadvAramAM UbhelI veiTrese amAruM samita svAgata karyuM ane eka Tebala amane batAvI gaI. ame TebalanI AsapAsa goThavAyA. eka veiTara AvIne amArI zAkAhArI vAnagIno oNrDara laI gayo. oNslomAM unALAmAM paNa ApaNane ThaMDI lAge. emAM acAnaka havAmAna badalAI jAya to ThaMDI vadhI jAya. eTale ame sveTara ane TopI paherI lIdhAM hatAM. ame TopI kADhIne bAjunI khAlI khurazImAM mUkI. amArA bagalathelA paNa mUkyA. eTalAmAM veiTrese AvIne kahyuM, "sara, tamArI TopI ahIM mUkI che, paNa tamane vAMdho na hoya to huM bahAra kAunTara para mUkI AvuM?" nA bahena, pachI levAnuM bhulAI jAya ke badalAI jAya.' "nA, evuM nahi thAya, sara ! tamane billo (Tokana) Apaze eTale badalAze nahi." bhale, jevI tamArI marajI.' amArI baMnenI TopI levAI gaI ane billA AvI gayA. veiTrese pAchuM kahyuM, sara, A tamArI baeNga (thelo) paNa tyAM ja rakhAvI done. lAvo tamArA billA. e ja billAmAM rAkhaze eTale kazI ciMtA nahi." amArA bagalathelA levAI gayA ane kAunTaramAM apAI gayA. amAruM bhojana AvI gayuM. ame zarU karIe te pahelAM veiTrese AvIne kahyuM, "A sveTara paherIne
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________________ 46 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 tamane jamavAnuM phAvaze ? garamI nathI lAgatI ? lAvo huM kAunTara para mUkI AvuM. coLAI nahi jAya. haMgaramAM bharAvIne rAkhaze.' ame sveTara utArIne ApI dIdhAM. pharI billAnI eka jAvana-Avana thaI. amane veiTresa bahu vinayI lAgI. amane thayuM ke gharAkanI sagavaDa mATe A loko keTaluM badhuM dhyAna Ape che ! kharekhara, A loko pAsethI ghaNuM zIkhavA jevuM che ! bhojana pUruM thayuM. te moMghuM paNa amAre mATe yogya ane saMtoSakAraka hatuM. bila AvavAnI rAha jotA hatA tyAM mitra kahe, "tyAM sudhImAM huM bAtharUma jaI AvuM." teo gayA ane tarata pAchA AvyA. meM pUchuyuM, "kema tarata pAchA ? lAina lAgI che ?' "nA, paNa enA paisA ApavA paDe (koina nAkhavA paDe) ema che. eTale mAMDI vALyuM. ApaNe daseka miniTamAM to hoTela para pahoMcI jaIzuM, pachI vagara kAraNe paisA zuM kharcavA ?' mitranI vAta sAcI hatI. yuropanA keTalAka dezomAM zaucAlayomAM paisA ApavA paDe che. jyAM jIvananirvAhanuM dhoraNa UMcuM hoya ane nibhAva kharca vadhu hoya tyAM AvakanA AvA rastA zodhavA paDe. - bila cUkavAI gayuM. veiTara ane veiTresa baMnene ame Tipa ApI, vinayazIla veiTresane vadhu. veiTrese sasmita AbhAra mAnyo, daravAjA sudhI mUkavA AvI ane amArI vastuo levAnuM bhUlIe nahi tenI yAda apAvI. bahAra nIkaLatAM pravezadvAra pAsenA khAMcAmAM cIjavastuo anAmata rAkhavAno kAunTara hato. tyAM ame amArA billA ApyA. tyAM pharaja para beThelI yuvatIe kahyuM, AnA tamAre konara (naoNrvenuM calaNa) ApavAnA che.' kronara ? ame to samajyA ke Ano kazo cArja nahi hoya.' nahi sara, amAro niyama che. tyAM juo !! yuvatIe sAme dIvAla para TAMgeluM baoNrDa batAvyuM. emAM moTA akSare spaSTa lakhyuM hatuM. vaLI cArja paNa taMgadITha hato. amAre kronara ApavA paDyA. amArA moDhAmAMthI zabdo sarI paDyA, 'veiTresano vinaya ApaNane bahu moMgho paDyo !' duniyAmAM keTaluMka arthataMtra mANasanI jANakArInA abhAva upara nabhe che. hoTela para AvIne AkhA divasanA anubhavonI vAto vAgoLatA ame nidrAdhIna thayA. bIje divase savAre eraporTa javA ame nIkaLyA. uttara naoNrvemAM sarakhuM khAvAnuM maLe ke na maLe eTale thoDIka vAnagIo, phaLa, sUko mevo vagere kharIdavA rastAmAM eka
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________________ 13 7. slonuM avanavuM 47 moTI dukAna pAse gADI UbhI rakhAvI. dukAna khAssI moTI hatI ane bhAtabhAtanI cIjavastuo maLatI hatI, paNa te calAvavA mATe eka ja yuvAna hato. daravAjAmAM pravezatAM sAme ja eno kAunTara hato - dukAna enI mAlikInI hoya ema jaNAyuM. amArI sAthe ja khabhe hevarasekavALo eka yuvAna dAkhala thayo. lAMbA bhUkharA vALa ane bharAvadAra dADhImUcha parathI jANe te koI kalAkAra hoya evuM lAgyuM. amArI sAthe te paNa vastuo jovA lAgyo. vacce vacce te amArI sAme najara karI leto hato. amArA bhAratIya caherA, khabhe bagalathelA, amArI gujarAtI bhASA vagerene kAraNe sthAnika lokone kautuka thAya e svAbhAvika che. ame vastuo pasaMda karI kAunTara para pahoMcyA. dukAnadAra eka pachI eka vastunA bhAva mazInamAM dAkhala karato jAya, paNa vacce vacce UMce joto jAya, jANe ke vicAre na caDI jato hoya ! amane thayuM ke vastunI kiMmatamAM kaMI bhUla haze ? ke mazInamAM kaMI garabaDa haze ? vAraMvAra vicAre paDI jatAM amAre kahevuM paDyuM, "bhAI, jarA utAvaLa karo, amAre eraporTa pahoMcavAnuM che.' paNa utAvaLa karavAne badale, hisAba gaNavAnuM paDatuM mUkIne e to kAunTaranI bahAra nIkaLI amArI pAse AvIne Ubho ane vAtoe vaLagyo. evAmAM pelo kalAkAra gharAka bahAra jato hato tene eNe Ubho rAkhyo ane potAnI bhASAmAM kaMIka kahyuM. ene kAunTaranI aMdara laI jaI potAnI bAjumAM besADyo. e yuvAna dukAnadAranI sUcanA pramANe cUpacApa tyAM besI gayo. dukAnadAre vilaMba mATe amArI mAphI mAgI. eNe potAno DAbo hAtha laMbAvI bhIMtamAM eka baTana dabAvyuM. pachI phaTAphaTa amAro hisAba karyo eTale ame nANAM cUkavyAM. evAmAM be mANasa amArI pAchaLa AvIne UbhA rahyA. ame pAchuM vaLIne joyuM to paheraveza parathI te polIsa lAgyA. dukAnadAra sAthe vAtacIta karIne polIse pelA yuvAnane aTakamAM lIdho. eNe dukAnamAMthI corI karI hatI. enI hevarasekamAMthI corelI vastu nIkaLI. yuvAne kazI AnAkAnI karI nahi ke bacAva karyo nahi. vastuta: te eka zabda paNa bolyo nahi. polIse ene potAnA vAhanamAM besADyo. ane teo cAlyA gayA. A badhuM cArapAMca miniTamAM banI gayuM. dukAnadAre amArI kSamA mAgI. hisAba karatI vakhate te UMce potAnA kemerAmAM joto hato. corI karatAM yuvAna pakaDAyo eTale eNe polIsanuM baTana dabAvyuM ane be miniTamAM polIsa AvI pahoMcI. ghaTanA corInI ane corane pakaDI javAnI banI, paNa na koI bUmAbUma, na
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________________ 48 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 koI bhAgAbhAga, na koI inkAra-pratikAra, na koI jhapAjhapI. jANe kazuM banyuM ja nathI ema kAmakAja pharI cAlu thaI gayuM. ame dukAnadArane pUchayuM, "tamAro deza ATalo badho sukhI che, to paNa corI kema thAya che ?' eNe kahyuM, "AvA kissA javalle ja bane, paNa bane che kharA. keTalAka mANasone kAma karavuM gamatuM nathI. corIthI gujarAna calAve. keTalAkane corInI Adata paDI jAya che, jelamAMthI chUTIne pAchA corI ja kare. keTalAka ekalavAyA jIvanane lIdhe mAnasika rogavALA thaI jAya che ane corI karI bese che. dareka kissAnI tapAsamAM kaMI judo ja niSkarSa Ave." samRddha dezone paNa potAnI samasyAo hoya che ! ame samayasara eraporTa pahoMcI gayA. oslonI ghaTanAoe amane sAruM vicArabhAthuM pUruM pADyuM hatuM.
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________________ bujuburA - sthAnika bhinna bhinna jAtio vaccenI hiMsaka athaDAmaNo TheTha prAcIna kALathI thatI AvI che. ene rokanAra koI sabaLa sattA na hoya to dIrghakALa kaleAmanI paraMparA cAle che ane bhAre narasaMhAra thAya che. emAM jaya-parAjaya jevuM ochuM hoya che. baMne jAtio chevaTe thAkIne jaMpI jAya che. vakhatovakhata AvI yAdavAsthaLIo kyAMka ne kyAMka thatI rahe che. vartamAna kALamAM AvI eka yAdavAsthaLI madhya AphrikAnAM ravAnDA ane buruMDI rAjyanI be AnuvaMzika jAtio vacce cAlI ane pAMceka varSamAM pAMca lAkhathI vadhu mANasonI kaleAma thaI. temanI Azare pAMca TakA jeTalI vastI ochI thaI gaI. A be jAtio te vAsusI (athavA tusI/ke tutrI) ane vAhuta (athavA hu0). tyAM bATavA nAmanI DhiMgujInI jAti paNa che, paraMtu vaimanasya tusI ane hutu loko vacce che. tusI loko kALA, UMcA ane buddhizALI che. hutu loko kALA, ThiMgaNA ane sAdhAraNa buddhizaktivALA che. tusI loko hoziyAra, zrImaMta ane vepAradhaMdhAmAM AgaLa vadhelA che. rAjakAraNamAM teo sakriya che. hutu loko garIba che, khetI kare che ane gAya-gheTAM uchere che. ApaNane prathama dRSTie baMne jAtinA loko sarakhA lAge, paNa koIka emanI zArIrika lAkSaNikatAono paricaya karAve to mahAvarAthI ApaNe oLakhI zakIe ke amuka mANasa tusI che ke hutu. teomAMnA keTalAka potAno AdivAsI dharma pALe che. keTalAka islAma dharmanA anuyAyI che ane khristI mizanarIonA dharmapracAra pachI ghaNA khristI thaI gayA che. alabatta, teonA lokanRtyo, rItarivAja ityAdi sarakhAM ja rahyAM che. ravAnDA ane buruMDImAM Azare sittera TakA loko suta che, paraMtu vepAra-udyoga, rAjyavahIvaTa vageremAM varcasva tusI lokonuM che. hutu loko ThaMDA che, paNa vIphare tyAre atyaMta nirdaya banI zake che. keTalAka vakhata pahelAM buruMDImAM cUMTaNImAM jItIne pramukha thanAra huta netAnuM koIka tusIe khUna karyuM tyAre jhanUne bharAyelA hatu lokoe pAMca cha divasamAM pacAsa hajAra tusI lokone mArI nAkhyA hatA. buruMDI enI kaoNphI mATe jagatamAM suvikhyAta che, paNa narasaMhAra mATe te eTaluM ja kukhyAta che. baMne jAtinI A saMhAranI lIlAmAM bIjo eka vicAra paNa daDha thayelo
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________________ 50 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 che ke, "mArI nAkhavAnI taka na maLe to mANasane jIvanabhara du:khI karI nAkho, enA eka athavA baMne paga kApI nAkho." vaLI, potAnA vistAramAM duzmanone AvatA rokavA mATe temaNe Thera Thera jamInamAM suraMgo goThavelI che. A suraMgo(Land mines)ne kAraNe hajAro loko jakhI thayA che ane potAnA paga gumAvyA che. buruMDImAM page apaMga hoya evA eka lAkhathI vadhu mANaso che. tusI ane hutu lokonI A saMhAralIlA aTakAvavA mATe dakSiNa AphrikAnA nelsana maMDelAe daramiyAnagIrI karIne, baMne jAtinA netAone samajAvIne suleha karAvI che ane zAMti-saMrakSaNa mATe potAnA Aphrikana sainiko ApyA che. tyArathI A AMtaravigraha ThaMDo paDyo che, paNa acAnaka kyAreka nAnuM moTuM chamakaluM thatuM rahe che. amAre buruMDI(jUnuM nAma uDI)nA pATanagara bujuskurA (junuM nAma ujuburA) javuM hatuM, paraMtu jyAM sudhI sthAnika paricita vyakti taraphathI lIlI jhaMDI na maLe tyAM sudhI tyAM javuM salAmatIbharyuM na gaNAya. amArA mitra, bhAratanA nAgarika, be dAyakAthI tyAM jaIne vaselA davAnA vepArI, roTeriyana ronAlDa raskinA taraphathI saMmati maLatAM ame bujuburA javAno kAryakrama goThavyo. mArA mitro roTeriyano mahendrabhAI mahetA ane manubhAI saMgharAjakAe, potAnA TrasTa helpa haeNnDikaMpa inTaranaeNzanala'nA upakrame, amerikA, keneDA, muMbaI ane bujuburAnI roTarI klabanA sahayogathI, buruMDInA vikalAMga mANasone maphata "jayapura phUTa' besADI ApavA tathA anya sAdhano ApavA bujuburAmAM mAnavatAbharyuM kArya upADyuM che ane tyAM te mATe eka tAlImakendra paNa sthApyuM che. enI pravRttio najare nihALavAnI amArI bhAvanA hatI. ame muMbaIthI vimAnamAM nIkaLI nAirobI thaIne bujuburA pahoMcyA. bhAI ronAlDa eraporTa para teDavA AvyA hatA. emanI oLakhANa ane suvAsa eTalI badhI ke eraporTano eka oNphisara amane dorIne gADImAM besADI gayo ane eka amArA pAsapaoNrTamAM sikkA marAvI Avyo. - ronAlDanI sAthe emanA baMgale javA ame eraporTathI ravAnA thayA. buruMDI pachAta deza che, paNa enI dharatI rasALa che. ahIMnA havAmAnamAM AvakAranI uSmA che. ahIMnI dharatI para paga mUkatAM jANe ApaNI mAtRbhUmi gujarAtamAM hoIe evo anubhava thayo. gujarAtanA koI mANasane kahyA vagara acAnaka A dharatI para pharato mUkavAmAM Ave ane te samaye AphrikAnA kALA loko kyAMya dekhAtA na hoya to ene ema ja lAge ke pote gujarAtanI dharatI para pharI rahyo che. ahIM AMbAnAM vRkSo para moTI moTI kerIo laTakI rahI che. ahIM ghaTAdAra lImaDA che ane vaDanI vaDavAIono vistAra che. pIpaLo ahIM pavitra vRkSa tarIke pUjAya che. kesarI ane
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________________ pa1 - - - bujuburA pILAM gulamahora taDakAmAM hasI rahyAM che. sUryakiraNo jhIlIne tulasI praphullita banI che. kareNa ane caMpo phUla kherave che. tADa ane nAriyeLI UMcAI mATe spardhA karI rahyAM che. thora ane papaiyA zAkhA prasarAvI rahyAM che. keLa para keLAMnI lUmo laTakI rahI che. bAramAsInAM phUla vAyu sAthe ramI rahyAM che. ahIM svaccha AkAzamAMthI relAto taDako ane dharatInI garama dhULa paNa jANe amane gujarAtano ja amane anubhava karAvatAM hatAM. ronAlDanA baMgale pahoMcI, bhojana ane ArAma pachI ame bujuburAmAM pharavA nIkaLyA. AphrikAnA anya pradezonI jema ahIM paNa garIbI ane bekArI ghaNI che. kAma vagaranA lAcAra mANasone AmathI tema AMTA mAratA ke kyAMka ToLe vaLIne UbhelA ke navarA besI rahelA joIne karuNA Upaje che. bujuburAnI vastI hAla cAra lAkha jeTalI che ane samasta buruMDI rAjyanI vastI sATha lAkha jeTalI che. lokonI bhASA kuruMDI che, paNa svAhilI badhA ja jANe che. yuropiyanonA zAsana ane vasavATanA prabhAve ahIM phrenca bhASA badhA bole che ane samaje che. ahIM bhAratIya lokonA sahavAsane lIdhe thoDAMka suzikSito aMgrejI bhASA paNa samaje che. bujuburAnI bhaugolika sthiti lAkSaNika che. TAMgAnikA nAmanA sarovarane kinAre AveluM e raLiyAmaNuM baMdara che. phaLadrupa jamInane kAraNe kophI, tamAku, kapAsa, vagerenI khetI sArI thAya che. ahIM jamIna sapATa che. bIje cheDe nAnA DuMgaro che. vAtAvaraNa AMkhane ThAre evuM hariyALuM che. varasAdanI mosama varasamAM be vAra hoya che. baso varSa pahelAM gorA khristI dharmapracArako ane jarmana sainiko A vistAramAM AvyA te pahelAM paNa bujurbArA vepAradhaMdhAthI dhamadhamatuM baMdara hatuM. AphrikAnA bIjA naMbaranA sarovara TAMgAnikAnA kinAre TAMjhAniyA, jhAMbiyA, kA~go, ravAnDA ane buruMDInAM rAjyo vaselAM che. madhyakALamAM jaLamArge vyavahAra vadhu cAlato ane baMdaro vikasatAM rahetAM. bujuskurA ane pAse Avela ujIjI baMdarano vikAsa e rIte thayelo. tyAre ahIM vecavAnI eka mahattvanI sAmagrI kaI hatI te jANo cho ? e hatI gulAmo. ahIM gulAmonuM moTuM bajAra bharAtuM. tyAre nANAMnuM calaNa AvyuM nahotuM. cIja-vastuonI adalAbadalI (Barter system) thatI. eka gulAma kharIdavo hoya to badalAmAM hAthIdAMta, mIThuM, mAchalI, gAyagheTAM, anAja ke tela ApavAM paDatAM. tyAre Araba musalamAna vepArIonuM ahIM bahu jora hatuM. sarovaramAM baMdaro vacce vahANo dvArA avarajavara cAlu rahetI, eTale baMdaronI vasatimAM pacaraMgIpaNuM hatuM. ahIM ruMDI, varA, gonI, bAvarI, nyAsA, hAyA, sukamA, yAo, korDa ityAdi paMdareka judI judI jAtinA loko AvIne vasyA hatA. ekalA
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________________ para pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 apariNIta yuvAno vepArArthe AvatA ane vakhata jatAM sthAnika kanyA sAthe lagna karIne ahIM ja vasavATa karatA. bujuburAnuM aitihAsika mahatva paNa che, kAraNa ke je khristI dharmapracArako (mizanarIo) A pradezamAM AvyA temAMnA eka hatA suprasiddha sAhasika zodhasapharI DeviDa liviMsTana (1813-1873). teo skaoNTalaeNnDanA vatanI hatA. vidyAbhyAsa karI teo dAktara thayA hatA, paraMtu tabIbI vyavasAya choDIne teo carcamAM mizanarI thavA mATe joDAI gayA hatA. temanI icchA cIna javAnI hatI, paraMtu uparIoe temane dharmapracAra mATe madhya AphrikAmAM mokalyA hatA. temano jIva sAhasika pravAsIno hato. temaNe A pradezomAM ghaNI zodhakhoLa karI potAnA ahevAlo lakhyA hatA. potAnA mAyALu svabhAvane lIdhe teo AphrikanomAM lokapriya thaI gayA hatA. sthAnika bhASA teo bolatA. aneka lokone emaNe khristI banAvyA hatA. temanI icchA AphrikA choDI pAchA skaoNTalaeNnDa javAnI nahotI. pachIthI carca sAthe emano patravyavahArano saMparka chUTI gayo hato. eTale carcane ciMtA thaI ke liviMsTana kyAM che ane jIve che ke nahi. henrI sTenlI nAmanA patrakAra emanI bhALa meLavavA AphrikA AvI pahoMcyA. temaNe liviMsTanane bujuskurA pAse ujIjImAM zodhI kADhyA. baMne bujuskurA AvIne sAthe rahyA hatA ane TAMgAnikA sarovaramAM sAthe saphara karI hatI. sTenlI pAchA pharyA ane liviMsTane AphrikAmAM ja deha choDyo hato. gorA pAdarIonI jema jarmana sainiko A pradezamAM AvyA ane temaNe rAjyasattA jamAvI. temaNe "jarmana IsTa AphrikA' nAmanA rAjyanI sthApanA karI. lagabhaga so varSa temaNe ravAnDA-usDI para rAjya karyuM. pahelA vizvayuddhamAM jarmanIno parAjya thatAM lIga oNpha nezansa bAjumAM kaoNMgomAM rAjya karatA phrAnsa ane beljiyamane A nAnAM rAjyonuM rakhevALuM soMpyuM. eTale ruvADA-urDInI sattAvAra bhASA phrenca thaI ane calaNa "phAka'nuM cAlu thayuM. 1962mAM ruvAnDA-usDI be alaga alaga svataMtra prajAsattAka rASTra-ravAnDA ane buruMDI thayAM, svataMtratA maLI, paNa garIbI ane bhUkhamaro evAM ja rahyAM, emAM vaLI jAtivigrahe baMnene pAyamAla karI nAkhyAM. buruMDI-bujuburAmAM loko garIba che eTaluM ja nahi, mAnasika rIte pachAta paNa che. eno dAkhalo ApatAM ronAlTe kahyuM, "mArI dukAne loko davA levA Ave che. yuropa-amerikAnI davA ame vecIe chIe. eka vakhata ame e ja davAo bhAratathI magAvI, paraMtu loko davAnAM khokhAMnAM kada ane eno raMga joIne davA le. suzikSita lokane davA vize samajAvIe ane vaMcAvIe. ene khAtarI thAya, to paNa cAra gaNI moMghI yuropanI davA ja kharIde, paNa bhAratanI davAne aDe nahi.' vaLI ronAlTe kahyuM,
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________________ bujuburA 53 pacAsa TakAthI vadhu chokarAo zALAmAM bhaNavA jatA nathI. mAbApane posAtuM nathI ane darakAra paNa nathI. eTale chokarAo sAtaATha varSanA thatAM pitAnI sAthe khetImAM ke majUrInA kAme lAgI jAya che. jemanI pAse evI sagavaDa na hoya te bekAra rakhaDe che." bujuburAmAM betraNa mALavALAM makAno ochAM ane navAM makAno paNa ochAM. AkAza cArebAju khulluM dekhAya. pharatAM pharatAM ame TAMgAnikA sarovaranA kinAre pahoMcyA, tyAM laTAra mArI, ghare bhojana karI ame nidrAdhIna thayA. bIje divase ame "jayapura phUTa'nA kendranI mulAkAta lIdhI. sthAnika roTarI klabanA sahakArathI tathA bhAratanA TrasTa taraphathI A kendra calAvavAmAM Ave che. bhAratanA Tekaniziyanoe ahIM rahIne sthAnika Tekaniziyanone tAlIma ApI che. atyAra sudhImAM be hajAra apaMga strIpuruSone paga maphata besADI ApavAmAM Avyo che. alabatta dUranA loko asalAmatInA Darane lIdhe javalle ja Ave che. bapore bhojana vakhate be gujarAtI yuvAnono paricaya thayo. AnaMda ane zAlIna baMne bhAIo che ane gujarAtI sAruM bole che. pote kacchI bhATiyA che ne gharamAM badhA kacchI bole che. emanA dAdA savAso varSa pahelAM bujuburAmAM AvIne vaselA. tyArathI temanuM kuTuMba bujuburAmAM che. baMne bhAIoe keneDAmAM rahIne vidyAbhyAsa karyo, paraMtu tyAMnA jIvanadhoraNathI AkarSAyA vinA pAchA bujuburAmAM ja AvIne rahyA che ane potAnA pitAnA vyavasAyamAM sArI rIte joDAI gayA che. huM muMbaI yunivarsiTIno nivRtta prAdhyApaka chuM evo ronAlDa paricaya ApatAM AnaMda tarata ja hiMdu maMdiramAM sAMje mAruM vyAkhyAna goThavyuM. gAmamAM aDhIso jeTalA gujarAtI che. badhAne aDadhA kalAkamAM phonathI samAcAra pahoMcADI devAyA. sAMje hiMdu maMdiramAM gujarAtIone maLavAnuM thayuM. bujuburAmAM doDhaso varSathI vasavATa che, paNa bhASA, paheraveza, raheNIkaraNI, dhArmika-sAmAjika utsavo vageremAM temaNe potAnuM asalI svarUpa jALavI rAkhyuM che. sabhAmAM meM tathA mArA mitroe prAsaMgika vaktavyo rajU karyA. sabhA pachI eka bhAI maLyA. pote jaina che. potAnA baMgalAmAM gharaderAsara che. tyAM darzana mATe AvavA kahyuM. javAnuM mana thayuM. jaIne joyuM to AnaMdavibhora thaI gayA. baMgalAnI bAjumAM sarasa moTuM maMdira karyuM che. DuMgaranI Toca para AlIzAna baMgalo aMdarathI paNa keTalo vizALa ane suMdara sajAvaTavALo ! emaNe kahyuM ke emanA pitAzrI bhAratamAM mahine trIsa rUpiyAnI nokarI karatA hatA. te choDIne bujuburAmAM AvavAnuM sAhasa karyuM. bhAgya palaTAyuM ane ghaNuM dhana kamAyA, paNa dharmakaraNI sAcavI rAkhI che. darzana, sAmAyika, pratikramaNa, covihAra ityAdimAM teonI custatA joIne emane mATe amane bahu mAna thayuM. bujuburAmAM daseka jaina
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________________ 54 . pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 kuTuMbo che. vAra-tahevAre badhAM ja emanA baMgale Ave che ane kAryakramomAM sahabhAgI bane che. bujuburAmAM gujarAtanI sAMskRtika AbohavA paNa sparzI jAya evI che. ApaNane ema thAya ke duniyAnA kevA aMtariyALa pradezomAM jaIne gujarAtIo vaselA che ! bIje divase goThavelA kAryakrama pramANe ame badhe pharyA. dUranA vistAromAM javAmAM salAmatI nathI ema amane kahevAmAM AvyuM. sAMje ronAlDanA baMgale badhA roTeriyano mATe milana ane bhojanano kAryakrama goThavAyo hato. Aphrikana, yuropiyana ane eziyana ema traNe khaMDanA kALA-gorA ane ghauvarNA mitro padhAryA hatA. jamaNa pachI judI judI maMDaLImAM bhAtabhAtanA viSayo para vAto cAlI. AvA milanamAM javAnI utAvaLa na hoya. moDI rAta sudhI pArTI cAle, paraMtu vAtacIto cAlatI hatI tyAM koIka bolyuM, "are, agiyAra vAgI gayA.' "agiyAra ? to UThIe badhA ! be miniTamAM to badhA vAta paDatI mUkIne UbhA thaI gayA. darekanA pagamAM utAvaLa hatI. bIjI be miniTamAM to potapotAnI gADImAM besI sau ravAnA thaI gayA. ame AzcaryathI joI rahyA. "kema badhA doDyA ?' amArAthI sahaja puchAI gayuM. ronAlTe kahyuM, "rAtano karaphyu che mATe." karaphyu ? paNa kaMI ramakhANa vagara.' hA, ahIM varSothI ema ja cAle che. bujuburA hAla salAmata che. to paNa karaphyu jarUrI che. bahAragAma to aMdhAruM thatAM saMcArabaMdhI thaI jAya che. ghaNAM varSathI A pramANe cAle che. salAmatI mATe e anivArya che.' ame vicAre caDI gayA. ravAnDA ane buruMDI keTalA badhA nAnA nAnA deza che. chatAM AnuvaMzika athaDAmaNone kAraNe satata saMcArabaMdhImAM jIvatI prajAno vikAsa kevI rIte thAya ? vikAsanI vAta to dUra rahI. "jayapura phUTanI vAta karIe to ApanArane maphata paga besADI ApavA che ane lenArane maphata joIe che, paNa vidhinI vicitratA kevI che ke salAmatInA abhAve ApanArA bujuburAnI bahAra jaI zakatA nathI ane lenArA AvI zakatA nathI. garIbI ane bhUkhamaro, zArIrika vikalatA ane salAmatInI ciMtA, jANe abhizApa hoya tema, prajAne kevI kacaDI nAkhe che !
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________________ borobudura annavastrAdinI lAlaca dekhADyA vinA ke zastrono bhaya batAvyA vinA, ahiMsA, prema ane zAMtino saMdezo laIne dharmano pracAra karavAmAM bauddha dharma duniyAmAM mokhare rahyo che. eka kALe cIna, jApAna ane koriyA sahita samagra eziyAmAM bauddha dharma prasarI gayo hato. emAM rAjyAzraye paNa mahattvanuM kArya karyuM hatuM. nAnAMmoTAM bauddha maMdiro to duniyAmAM seMkaDo che, paraMtu uttuMga, vizALa, sthApatyakaLAmAM ananya bhAta pADanArAM prAcIna bauddha maMdiromAM, cIna-jApAnanAM maMdiro uparAMta brahmadezanuM svaDegona pegoDA, kaMboDiyAnuM aMgakoravATa ane inDoneziyAjAvAnuM borobudura mazahUra che. borobuduranAM darzana karavAnI icchA to ghaNA vakhatathI hatI paNa tevo koI suyoga sAMpaDato nahoto. eka vakhata bAlImAM ame hatA tyAre acAnaka evo avasara prApta thayo. bAlIthI jakArtA jatAM vacce jagyAkArtA UtaravAnuM ame nakkI karyuM ke jethI tyAMthI borobudura jaI zakAya. borabaMdura inDoneziyAnA jAvA TApumAM jagyAkArtA zaherathI Azare cAlIsa kilomITara dUra AveluM che. inDoneziyAnI bhASA upara saMskRta bhASAno prabhAva ghaNo rahyo che. kartA eTale sthaLa athavA nagarI. jayakartA eTale vijayanuM sthaLa - A place of Victory. jayakartAnuM kALakrame jakArtA - jAkArtA (inDoneziyAnuM pATanagara) thaI gayuM. jagyAkArtAmAM jagyA eTale ayodhyA, jyAM yuddha na thAya te. kartA eTale nagarI. jagyAkArtA eTale zAntinI nagarI, ame jagyAkArtA pahoMcyA tyAre amAruM svAgata karavA amArA gAiDa-mitra hAjara hatA. emanuM nAma igneziyasa. teo suzikSita ane saMskArI hatA. jAte khristI hatA, paNa hiMdu, bauddha ane islAma dharmanI paNa sArI jANakArI dharAvatA hatA. emanI sAthe ame gADImAM borobudura pahoMcyA. citramAM joyelA maMdiranAM dUrathI sAkSAt darzana karatAM eka viziSTa anubhava thayo. ame dhanyatA anubhavI. maMdiranAM darzana to thayAM, paNa mArAthI upara caDAze ke kema te vize dahezata hatI, kAraNa ke Agale divase ja mane kamaramAM asahya dukhAvo UpaDyo hato. jevA ame gADImAMthI UtaryA ke ghaNAM badhAM pheriyA-pheriyaNa amane vIMTaLAI vaLyAM, potapotAnI vastuo vecavA mATe. citro, phoTAo, pustikAo, borobuduranA
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________________ pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 nAmavALAM TI-zarTa, skArpha, yAdagIrI mATenI cIjavastuo vagere kharIdavA mATe teo Agraha karavA lAgyAM. koIkane emAM trAsa lAge ane koIkane bhAvatAla karavAnI majhA Ave. pheriyAo pahelAM cArapAMca gaNo bhAva kahe ane pachI pAchaLa pAchaLa cAle ane bhAva ghaTADatA jAya. koI paNa vastumAM rasa batAvo athavA enA bhAva pUcho eTale te pheriyo keDo na mUke. amArA eka mitre zarTanA amastAM bhAva pUgyA. eTale e pheriyaNa bAI pharlAga sudhI, TheTha maMdiranAM pagathiyAM sudhI pAchaLa pAchaLa satata bhAva bolatI-ghaTADatI AvI ane chevaTe nirAza thaI. igneziyasa sAthe mArA mitro pagathiyAM caDavA lAgyA. meM kahyuM, 'tame jAo; mane kamaramAM darda che eTale mArAthI avAze to AvIza.' pachI manamAM zAnta citte prArthanA karI ane dhIme dhIme eka eka pagathiyuM caDavA lAgyo. dasa-bAra pagathiyAM caDatAM to kamarano dukhAvo jANe kiTTA karIne moDhuM pheravI gayo hoya evuM lAgyuM. pachI to mitronI sAthe huM thaI gayo ethI teone paNa AnaMda thayo. ame maMdiranA prathama pravezadvAra pAse AvI pahoMcyA. maMdira vize igneziyase sArI mAhitI ApI. borobuduranuM A maMdira IsavI sananA sAtamA-AThamA saikAmAM baMdhAyeluM che. I. sa. 73ranA zilAlekhamAM zailendra vaMzanA bauddha dharmI rAjAonI nAmAvali che. Azare savAso phUTa UMcA, pacAsa hajAra corasa phUTamAM patharAyelA A maMdiranI AkRti laMbacorasa prakAranI che. enA cAre khUNA barAbara cAre dizAmAM che. cArebAju vacce pravezadvAramAM dvArapAla tarIke siMhanAM moTAM pUtaLAM che. cAre daravAje caDavA-UtaravA mATe TheTha sudhI pahoLAM pagathiyAM che. A vistAramAM jvALAmukhI parvato hovAthI maMdiranA bAMdhakAmamAM jvALAmukhIno ja bhUkharo paththara vaparAyo che. maMdiramAM laMbacorasa ghaDelA evA vIsa lAkha paththarono upayoga thayo che e uparathI enI racanAnI vizALatA ane nakkaratAno khyAla Ave che. bAraso varSa pahelAM bauddha dharmanuM ativizALa bhavya maMdira ahIM thayuM e uparathI e kALe bauddha dharmano keTalo badho prabhAva ane pracAra A pradezamAM haze tenuM anumAna thaI zake che. borobudura zabda "bihAra' (vihAra) ane "behudura' e be zabdano banelo manAya che. "vihAra' eTale maMdira athavA maTha ane "behudura' eTale DuMgara paranI sapATa jagyA. borobudura eTale DuMgara paranuM dhArmika sthaLa. ahIM eka zilAlekhamAM e mATe "bhUmisaMbhAra' zabda prayojAyo che. borobudura maMdira hovA chatAM te praNAlikAgata maMdira nathI; vastuta: te stUpa che. sUpanA prakAranI te eka bhavya racanA che. maMdiromAM bhakti-prArthanAdi mATe vizALa khaMDa ke raMgamaMca hoya che tevuM borobuduramAM nathI. ahIM kyAMya mAthe chata nathI. AvI
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________________ -- -- -- -- --- - borobudura pa7 virATakAya imArata che chatAM ekasAthe so-baso mANasa palAMThI vALIne besI zake evI samacorasa ke laMbacorasa koI jagyA nathI. borobuduranA A sUpanI racanA "maMDala'nA AdhAre karavAmAM AvI che. bauddha darzanavidyAne maMDala dvArA AkRtinA svarUpe darzAvAya che. A stUpanA pAyAnI AkRtimAM paNa tAMtrika rahasya raheluM che. keTalAMka pagathiyAM caDI ame upara gayA to pradakSiNApatha ke bhamatI jevI racanA AvI. igneziyase samajAvyuM ke A pradakSiNApathamAM paNa vyavasthAkrama rahelo che. AvI khullI pahoLI cAra bhamatInI dIvAlomAM aMdaranI bAju ApaNe joI zakIe evuM bhArobhAra zilpakAma thayeluM che. emAM bauddha dharmagraMtho "lalita vistarA', "jAtaka' vageremAMthI vividha kathAprasaMgo kotaravAmAM AvyA che. taduparAMta bodhisattvanA jIvanaprasaMgo, bhagavAna buddhanI vividha mudrAo vagere ghaNuMbadhuM emAM batAvavAmAM AvyuM che. ahIM cAra mALanI cAra pradakSiNApathanI dIvAlomAM Azare doDha hajAra jeTalI penala che ane darekano viSaya judo che. prathama pradakSiNApathamAM "kAmadhAtu' avasthAnuM, bIjAmAM "rUpadhAtu' avasthAnuM ane trIjA-cothAmAM "arUpadhAtu' avasthAnuM nirUpaNa thayeluM che. rasa hoya, jANakArI hoya ane samayanI nirAMta hoya to adbhuta AnaMdAnubhava karAvanArI emAM sAmagrI che. ame pahelA mALa ke gaDhanI "kAmadhAtu' nAmanI bhamatImAM pharIne bIjA mALe gayA, sthUla bhautika kAmabhoganA jIvanamAMthI sUkSma AdhyAtmika jIvana eTale ke, arUpadhAtu' sudhI javAnuM lakSya hovuM joIe. cAra maMDalarUpa cAra bhamatI pUrI karI ame upara pahoMcyA. tyAMnuM to dRzya ja kaMIka aneruM che. ATaluM caDatAM thAka nathI lAgato ane lAgyo hoya to ene haranArI havA AvI pahoMce che. cArebAju khullA AkAzamAM raheluM vAyumaMDaLa cittane prasannatAthI chalakAvI de che. ahIM stUponA pradezamAM ApaNe pravezIe chIe. ahIMnI racanA have laMbacorasa nahi paNa laMbavartuLanA prakAranI che. eka pachI eka evI caDatA krame traNa hAramAM botera moTA stUpa che. A botera tUpa samayanI ghaTamALanA pratIkarUpa che ema manAya che. anyatra jovA maLe tenA karatAM A stUponI lAkSaNikatA anokhI che. ahIM bauddha dharmanI zAkhA-samanvayanI bhAvanAnI abhivyakti thayelI che. bauddha dharmanI mukhya be zAkhA che : hInayAna ane mahAyAna. hInayAna zAkhA bhagavAnanI mUrti banAvavAmAM nathI mAnatI. te sUpamAM mAne che. mahAyAna mUrtimAM mAne che. ahIM stUpo che ane pratyeka stUpanI aMdara mUrti paNa che. A enI samanvayanI viziSTatA che. sUpanI aMdara mUrti hoya to enAM darzana kevI rIte thAya ? e mATe stUpanI dIvAlone jALI jevI karavAmAM AvI che. emAM caoNkaTanA AkAranAM moTAM kANAM che. najIka jaIne emAMthI joIe to aMdara dhyAnI buddhanAM darzana thAya. A coMkaTa kANAM (kyAMka corasa kANAM paNa che) paNa
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________________ 58 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 kalAtmaka rIte karavAmAM AvyAM che. cAra cAra caoNkaTanAM laheriyAM che. nIce kamaLanI pAMdaDIovALA A stUponI vartuLAkAra goThavaNImAM koI sAMketika rahasya raheluM che. A traNa vartuLonI vacce vizALa, uttega kendrastha stUpa Avelo che. upara caDato caDato yAtrika chevaTe A sarvocca madhyastha stUpanAM darzana karIne kRtArtha thaIne nIce Utare che. borobudramAM stUpomAM pradakSiNApathamAM ane bahAra gokhalAomAM bhagavAna buddhanI vajasattva buddha, vairocana buddha ane dhyAnI buddhanI ema maLIne kula 505 jeTalI pratimAo hatI, jemAMthI hAla cArasothI ochI pratimA rahI che ane emAM akhaMDita pratimAo to traNasothI paNa ochI che. ATaluM badhuM naSTa thayuM hovA chatAM borobudura haju samRddha che. bAra saikA jeTalA kALapravAhamAM eNe ghaNI kaDavImIThI anubhavI che. eNe ajJAtavAsa paNa sevyo che. kheDUta ane enA khetara mATe jema kahevAya che ke mora (pakSIo) khAya, Dhora khAya, uMdara khAya, cora khAya toya peTa bharIne kheDUta khAya eTaluM anAja khetaramAM Uge. borobuduranI keTalIye pratimAo vidharmIoe naSTa karI che, keTalIka coro uThAvI gayA che, keTalIka bIjAne bheTa ApI devAI che, keTalIka vIjaLI ke dharatIkaMpamAM naSTa thaI che to paNa yAtrikonuM haiyuM harakhAI jAya eTalI badhI pratimAo haju tyAM rahelI che. ema jANavA maLe che ke A maMdiranI pratiSThAvidhi thaI hatI tyAre sarvocca stUpanI aMdara bhagavAna buddhanI nakarA sonAnI nAnI pratimA padharAvavAmAM AvI hatI, paraMtu Daca zAsanakALa daramiyAna koIka Daca adhikArIe stUpamAM bAkoruM pADI e pratimA kADhI lIdhI hatI ane maMdiranI koIka jagyAnI paththaranI eka mUrti khaseDIne tyAM mUkI dIdhI hatI. bIjA eka Daca amaladAre keTalIka mUrtio ane kalAkRtio kaDhAvIne, nava gADAM bharIne siyAmanA rAjAne I. sa. 1896mAM bheTa ApI dIdhI hatI. lAge che ke yaMtra-taMtranA rahasya anusAra borobuduranA maMdirano nakazo taiyAra karavAmAM bauddha dharmaguruo ane ghaNAbadhA sthapati-zilpI kalAkAronI kalpanAzaktie kAma karyuM haze. maMdiranA sarjanamAM maulikatA, kalAtmaka sAmaMjasya ane dhArmika aucitya bhArobhAra rahelAM che, eTaluM ja nahi, ekasAthe aneka darzanArthIo Ave to emanI sukhethI avarajavara thaI zake evI vyavahAru dRSTi paNa emAM rahelI che. prAcIna kALamAM rAjyAzraya vinA AvAM bhavyAtibhavya dharmasthAnakonuM bAMdhakAma thaI na zake. ATalI bRhadUkAya imArata bAMdhatAM varSo lAgyAM haze e sunizcita che, paraMtu kayA rAjAne A maMdira bAMdhavAno bhAva thayo haze ane emane koNe preraNA ApI haze te viSe nizcitapaNe kazuM jANavA maLatuM nathI. ema manAya che ke doDha-be saikA sudhI borobuduranI jAhojalAlI barAbara
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________________ borobudura jaLavAI haze, paraMtu pachI kaMIka evuM banatuM rahyuM haze ke jethI loko sthaLAntara karI gayA haze. keTalIka aTakaLo thAya che. maMdira para musalamAnonAM AkramaNa tyAre haju cAlu thayAM nahotAM. saMbhava che ke pAse rahelo jvALAmukhI phATyo hoya ke bhayaMkara dharatIkaMpa thayo hoya. maMdiranAM darzana karavA jatAM eka yuvAna rAjakumAranuM hRdaya baMdha paDatAM avasAna thavAthI loko vahemAI gayA hoya athavA zailendra vaMzano aMta Avyo hoya. game tema, paNa borobuduranI paDatI cAlu thaI gaI. thoDA vakhatamAM to te eka nirjana sthaLa banI gayuM ane AsapAsa UgelAM jhADIjhAMkharAMmAM e avarajavara vinAnuM banI gayuM. saikAo sudhI te ajJAta rahyuM. borobadaranA astitvanI yatkiMcit jANakArI AsapAsanA grAmINa lokone rahyA karI haze, paNa ene 1814mAM ajavALAmAM lAvanAra hatA aMgreja gavarnara sTempharDa rAphelsa. emanA prayAsothI tyAM sAphasUphI ane marAmata thavA lAgI. enA yAtrA-pravAsa mATe suvidhAo vadhavA lAgI ane pharI pAchuM borobudura jIvatuM jAgatuM banI gayuM. inDoneziyAne svataMtratA maLyA pachI pahelA pramukha DaoN. sukarNanA prayAsathI yuneskoe ene AMtararASTrIya smAraka tarIke svIkRti ApI ane enI jALavaNI mATe moTI rakama phALavI. tyArathI borobudurano punaruddhAra thayo. ahIM eka bodhivRkSa vAvavAmAM AvyuM ane dara vaizAkhI pUrNimA(bhagavAna buddhanA janma, jJAna ane nirvANano A eka ja divasa che)e ahIM meLo bharAya che, zobhAyAtrA nIkaLe che ane utsava thAya che. badhA ja emAM bhAga le che. jAvA eka evo TApu che ke jyAM hiMduo, bauddho, musalamAno ane khristIo sAthe saMpathI rahe che ane badhAnAM dharmasthAnako tyAM AvelAM che. AkAza bharIne UbheluM borIbaMduranuM mahAkAya maMdira joIne ame nIce UtaryA. tyAM to zarTa vecanArI pelI bAI mArA mitrane yAda rAkhIne doDatI AvI ane kharIdavA mATe karagaravA lAgI. ema karatAM te TheTha gADI sudhI AvI. gADImAM besatAM meM mitrane kahyuM, "ApaNane zarTanI jarUra nathI. paNa bhAva pUchayA che to ApaNe bicArIne khaTAvavI joIe. A koI moTI visAta nathI.' mitra mAnI gayA ane gADImAMthI nIce UtaryA, paNa eTalI vAramAM te bAI chevaTe nirAza thaIne giradImAM kyAM cAlI gaI te khabara na paDI. garIbonAM prArabdha paNa kevAM hoya che ! aMtarAyakarma kevuM kAma kare che ! borobuduranuM ArohaNa karatAM mArI kamarano dukhAvo pote evo gabharAI gayo ke pAchA pharavAnuM eNe nAma na lIdhuM. pavitra dharmasthAnakono prabhAva deha ane citta para kevo paDe che te mane jAte anubhavavA maLyuM, to pachI Atmika zakti khIlavavAmAM te moTuM nimitta kema na banI zake ?
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________________ 10 makAu dakSiNa cInanA pazcima kinAre pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM pAse pAse AvelAM be bhUtapUrva yuropIya saMsthAna (Colony)te aMgrejonuM haoNMgakaoNMga ane paoNrTugIjhonuM makAu (makAo), paraMtu baMnenI bhAta nokhI nokhI. yuropamAM iMglaeNnDa ane paoNrTugala najIkanA dezo, chatAM baMnenI bhaugolika khAsiyato judI, havAmAna judAM, bhASA judI, raheNIkaraNI ane zokha judAM judAM, eno prabhAva jema enA samAjajIvana para paDyo che tema enAM saMsthAnonA vahIvaTa upara paNa paDyo che. eTale ja bahAranI duniyAmAM haoNMgakaoNMga jeTaluM mazahUra thayuM eTaluM makAu na thayuM. aMgrejoe muMbaInI jema haoNMgakaoNMgane jeTaluM vikasAvyuM teTaluM paoNrTugIjhoe jema govAne tema makAune paNa na vikasAvyuM. makAu mukhyatve dyUtanagarI-kesinonI nagarI tarIke paMkAyeluM che, paNa te uparAMta paNa tyAM ghaNuMbadhuM jovAnuM che. jemane itihAsa ane bhaugolika racanAmAM rasa hoya, zilpasthApatya ane jIvanazailI vize jANavAnI icchA hoya temaNe pAMcaso varSa purANA, pUrva ane pazcimanI saMskRtinA samanvayarUpa, pAMca lAkhanI vastIvALA A dvIpanagaranI mulAkAta levA jevI che. vastuta: makAu dvIpa nahi, paNa dvIpakalpa (Peninsula) che, kAraNa ke eno eka cheDo cInanA taLapradezane aDelo che. mAre haoNMgakaoNMga keTalIka vAra javAnuM thayuM hatuM, paraMtu makAunI mulAkAtano avasara sAMpaDyo na hato. eka vakhata ame haoNMgakaoNMgamAM hatA tyAre mArA mitre sUcana karyuM ke vacce eka divasa maLe che to makAu jaI AvIe to kema ? makAunA kesino jovA hoya, jugA2 2mavo hoya to tyAM rAta rokAvuM paDe, paraMtu amane emAM rasa nahoto. eTale ame phakta divasanI Tura pasaMda karI. makAu mATe phakta pAsapaoNrTanI jarU2; vIjhAno sikko to tyAM erapaoNrTa ke baMdara upara ja mArI ApavAmAM Ave che. ame vahelI savAre haoNMgakaoNMganA baMdara para pahoMcI gayA. amArI TuramAM judA judA dezanA pacAseka pravAsIo hatA. sTImaramAM besI thoDA kalAkamAM ame makAunA baMdare UtaryA. tyAM imigrezana vibhAgamAM pAsapaoNrTamAM sikko marAvI ame bahAra AvyA tyAre amAruM svAgata karavA amArI mahilA gAiDa UbhI hatI. eNe pravAsIonI saMkhyAnI gaNatarI karI lIdhI ane darekanI chAtIe potAnI kaMpanInuM
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________________ makAu lAla sTikara lagADIne kahyuM, "ahIM baMdaramAM ane jovAnAM sthaLoe bhAre bhIDa rahe che, mATe tame badhA sTikara pramANe ekabIjAnA saMparkamAM rahejo, nahi to bhUlA paDI jazo." te badhAMne dorIne basamAM laI gaI ane potAno paricaya ApatAM kahyuM, "mAruM nAma harTa (Herst) che. huM ahIMnI eka zALAmAM zikSikA chuM ane phAjala divase gAiDa tarIke kAma karuM chuM. A mArA rasano viSaya che ane vadhArAnI AvakanuM sAdhana che. mAro janma inDoneziyAnA sumAtrAmAM thayo hato. mArAM mAtApitA AjIvikA mATe hoMgakoMga AvIne rahyAM ane tyAMnAM nAgarika banyAM. pachI mArA pitA nokarI mATe makAu AvyA hatA. mane zikSikA tarIke kAma karavAnI taka maLI eTale huM paNa ahIM AvIne rahI chuM.' harTe cInI pravAsIo mATe cInI bhASAmAM ane bIjA yuropiyana pravAsIo mATe phrenca ane porTugIjhamAM paricaya Apyo. tenA iMgliza uccAro spaSTa ane samajAya evA hatA. e pAMca bhASA sArI rIte bolI zakatI hatI. makAu vize tenI jANakArI sArI hatI. IsavI sananA paMdaramA-soLamA zatakamAM dariyAI saphara mATe doDhaso-basothI vadhu khalAsIo, zodha pharIo ArAmathI rAtadivasa rahI zake evAM khAssAM moTAM, saDhavALAM, majabUta ane jhaDapI vahANonuM nirmANa yuropamAM jema jema vadhavA lAgyuM tema tema sAhasika zodhasapharIonI mahattvAkAMkSA paNa vistaravA lAgI. spena, paoNrTugala, phrAnsa, briTana, holenDa vagere dezonA zodhasApharIo vacce ekabIjA upara sarasAI meLavavA mATe ane navA navA mulako kabaje karavA mATe spardhA thavA lAgI. kyAreka yuddho paNa thayAM. yuropathI nIkaLI AphrikA, bhArata vagerenA kinAre kinAre AgaLa vadhI cIna-jApAnanA kinArA sudhI vahANamAM pahoMcatAM kyAreka doDha-be varSa jeTalo samaya thaI jato. makAu upara pahelavahelo kabajo Daca lokoe soLamA zatakanA AraMbhamAM jamAvyo hato, paraMtu porTugIjha dariyAkheDuo vadhu jabarA ane laDAyaka mijAjanA hatA. teo makAumAM AvyA tyAre temano Daca loko barAbara sAmano karI zakyA nahi. parAjaya thatAM teo bhAgyA ane pachI inDoneziyAnA TApuono Azraya lIdho. porTugIjha jItatAM makAu porTugIjha saMsthAna banyuM. tyAre makAunA sthAnika cInA loko bauddha dharma pALatA hatA. amArI basa eka sthaLe UbhI rahI. tyAM eka pUtaLuM hatuM. badhAMne e batAvIne gAiDe kahyuM, "A pUtaLuM porTugIjha sAhasika jyorja alavAresanuM che. makAunA dIpakalpa upara pahelavahelo paga mUkanAra porTugIjha te A jyorja alavAresa che. I. sa. 1557mAM porTugIjho makAumAM AvyA.'
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________________ 62 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 alavAresano UMco kadAvara deha, bharAvadAra cahero, lAMbI dADhImUcha, vajanadAra bUTa, jADo ovarakoTa ityAdine lIdhe AbehUba lAgatI enI AkRti jUnA vakhatanA yuropIya zodhasApharIo kevA hatA teno ApaNane khyAla Ape che. harTe kahyuM, "A TApunuM nAma makAu kevI rIte paDyuM teno itihAsa rasika che. jyorja alavAresa potAnA sAthIdAro sAthe vahANamAMthI UtarIne samudrakinAre AvyA tyAre tyAM sthAnika cInAo eka maMdira pAse beThA hatA. sAmAnya rIte zodhasapharIone sauthI pahelI jijJAsA navA sthaLanA nAma vize hoya, paraMtu porTugIjhone cInI bhASA nahotI AvaData ane cInAo to A UMcA, gorA, kadAvara mANasone joIne hebatAI gayelA. be vibhASI prajA vacce AraMbhamAM je vyavahAra thAya te izArAthI ane bhAMgyAtUTyA zabdothI. eTale kyAreka gUMcavADo ane gerasamaja paNa thAya.' porTugIjha lokoe pUchyuM, "A pradezanuM nAma zuM che?' sthAnika loko samajyA ke teo A zAnuM maMdira che ema pUche che. emaNe kahyuM, A mA kAu." A mA' e devInuM nAma che. kAu (kAo) eTale sthaLa. "A mA kAu' eTale A mA" devInI A jagyA che. eTale porTugIjho samajyA ke A jagyAnuM nAma "A makAu che. eTale teo A TApune "makAu' nAmathI oLakhavA lAgyA. amane samudrakinAre AvelA "A mA' devInA maMdire laI javAmAM AvyA. enA pravezadvAra AgaLa eka khaDaka upara hoDInI AkRti kotaravAmAM AvI che. bIjA eka khaDaka upara cInI lipimAM prArthanA kotaravAmAM AvI che. maMdiramAM "A mA'nI mUrti uparAMta bhagavAna buddha ane bauddha dharmanAM devadevIonI mUrtio che. maMdiramAM aMdara paNa hoDInI AkRti che. "ahIM hoDI zA mATe che ?' ame prazna karyo. basa, e ja samajAvuM chuM. "A mA' e mAchImAronI dariyAI devI che. A sAmudrika mAtAnA pAMcaso varSa purANA maMdira vize eka rasika daMtakathA che ?' A TApu upara eka garIba chokarI rahetI hatI. enuM nAma "A mA'. eka divasa ene vahANamAM besIne pAsenA baMdara kenTana javuM hatuM. enI pAse bhADAnA paisA nahotA. eTale eNe vahANanA mAlikone bhADuM lIdhA vagara kenTana laI javA kahyuM, paraMtu zrImaMta vahANavALAoe koIe ene besavA na dIdhI. badhAM vahANo UpaDI gayAM. have chelle garIba mAchImAronI eka hoDI jatI hatI. "A mAe temane AjIjI karI. mAchImArone dayA AvI. temaNe potAnI hoDImAM ene besavA dIdhI. badhA jyAre kenTana tarapha jaI rahyA hatA tyAre madhadariye acAnaka bhayaMkara vAvAjhoDuM
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________________ 13 makAu thayuM. emAM zrImaMtonAM badhAM vahANo DUbI gayAM, paNa garIba mAchImAronI hoDI bacI gaI. teo TApu para pAchA AvyA. mAchImArone lAgyuM ke A nAnI chokarInA pratApe ja badhA bacI gayA che. teo badhA hemakhema kinAre UtaryA. chokarI paNa kinAre UtarIne retImAM cAlatAM cAlatAM acAnaka kyAM alopa thaI gaI te khabara na paDI. bahu tapAsa karI paNa kyAMya patto lAgyo nahi. mAchImArone thayuM ke jarUra dariyAnI devIe garIba chokarInuM rUpa dhAraNa karIne temane bacAvyA che. eTale temaNe A kinAre "A mA' devInuM maMdira baMdhAvyuM ane dariyAI saphara mATe jatAM-AvatAM tyAM darzana karavA lAgyA. A maMdira joyA pachI ame kuma lonanuM bauddha maMdira joyuM. makAunuM A moTAmAM moTuM ane jUnAmAM jUnuM maMdira che. kuma lAna bauddha dharmanI dayAnI devI che. A maMdira teramA saikAmAM bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. tyAra pachI I. sa. 1927mAM eno jIrNoddhAra thayo hato. kuma lona uparAMta bhagavAna buddhanI vividha lAkSaNika mudrAovALI pratimAo emAM che. kuma lAnanI mUrti lagnanA vezamAM che. enuM kAraNa ema apAya che ke te lagna karyA pachI e divase tarata ja bauddha saMghamAM joDAI gaI hatI. A maMdiramAM chatamAM, gokhalAmAM, pravezadvAramAM lAla, lIlo ane pILo e traNa raMganuM samucita saMyojana juduM ja vAtAvaraNa sarje che. makAumAM bahumatI bauddhadharmIonI che. eTale ahIM ghaNAM nAnAMmoTAM bauddha maMdiro che. A maMdironI eka khAsiyata te enI dhUpasaLInI che. ApaNe tyAM bAremAsa akhaMDa dIvAnI prathA che, paNa akhaMDa dhUpanI prathA nathI. divasarAta dhUpasaLI akhaMDa baLe ema karavuM hoya to dhUpasaLI khAssI lAMbI hovI joIe. duniyAnI lAMbAmAM lAMbI ane moTAmAM moTI dhUpasaLI makAumAM jovA maLe che. te UMce chatamAM laTakAvelI hoya che. eka cheDethI nAnA vartuLamAMthI nIce krame krame uttarottara moTA vartuLamAM saLaMga vistaratI jatI, vIsapacIsa vartuLavALI polA zaMkunI jema te laTakatI rahe che ane A bIje cheDe saLagatI rahe che. eka agarabattI A rIte lagabhaga be mahinA cAle che, eka pUrI thAya te pahelAM bIjI saLagAvavAmAM Ave che. koIka maMdiramAM dara navA varSe phakta eka ja vAra eka sAthe traNacAra agarabattI chatamAM laTakAvI devAmAM Ave che. te AkhuM varSa akhaMDa cAle che. pachI navA varSe navI agarabattIo Ave. koIka bIddha maMdiramAM pAchaLa eka vibhAgamAM kabrastAna hoya che. cIna, jApAna vagere keTalAka dezomAM bauddhadharmIomAM zabane agnisaMskAra nahi paNa daphanAvavAnI vidhi hoya che. makAumAM evo kAyado che ke videzI nAgarika hoya ane videzamAM
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 34 gujarI gayAM hoya evAM sagAMonA zabane makAumAM lAvIne daphanAvI na zakAya, paraMtu A kAyado pati ke patnInA zabane lAgu paDato nathI. gAiDa harTe kahyuM ke enI mAtA haoNMgakaoNMgamAM rahetI hatI ane tyAMnI nAgarika hatI, paraMtu e tyAM gujarI gaI tyAre sarakAranI paravAnagI meLavIne pote mAtAnuM zaba laI AvI hatI ane makAumAM pitAnI kabara khodAvIne emAM sAthe te vidhisara daphanAvavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. makAumAM jema bauddha maMdiro che tema khristI devaLo paNa che. makAumAM eka moTuM jUnAmAM jUnuM devaLa te seMTa polanuM hatuM. I. sa. 1602mAM paoNrTugIjho dvArA govAnAMnA potAnA seMTa polanA devaLa jevuM ja barAbara A devaLa bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM hatuM, paraMtu eka vakhata bhayaMkara Aga lAgatAM AkhuM devaLa baLI gayuM. mAtra enA pravezadvAranI paththaranI kalAtmaka UMcI dIvAla bacI gaI. sattAvALAoe prAcIna smAraka tarIke sAcavI rAkhelI A dIvAla jotAM amane te samayanI paoNrTugIjhonI jAhojalAlIno khyAla Avyo. vaLI eno vadhu khyAla Avyo makAunA jUnA gIca vistAromAM pharatAM pharatAM. yuropiyanoe potAnAM saMsthAnomAM havA, prakAza, varasAda, rakSaNa ityAdinI dRSTie sAthe kalAtmaka dRSTithI makAnonA bAMdhakAmamAM je sthApatyakalA vikasAvI hatI te anokhI hatI. jotAM ja khabara paDI jAya ke e 'koloniyama sTAila'nuM makAna che. makAumAM paoNrTugIjhonAM evAM jUnAM makAno, devaLo vagere sAcavI rAkhavAmAM AvyAM che. gulAbI raMga e paoNrTugIjhono eka priya raMga manAya che. ahIM ghaNAM jUnAM makAnonI dIvAlo gulAbI raMganI jovA maLe che. A jUnAM makAnomAM eka aphINadhara (Opium House) paNa che ke jyAM aphINanA vyasanI cInAo AvIne aphINa pItA. e jamAnAmAM duniyAmAM aphINanA sauthI vadhu vyasanIo cInamAM hatA. emane aphINanA baMdhANI banAvanAra paoNrTugIjho hatA. paoNrTugIjhonI A eka moTAmAM moTI kusevA hatI (bhAratamAM tamAku laI AvanAra paNa paoNrTugIjho hatA). teo aphINa ApIne cInAo pAsethI rezama, motI, cA vagere badalAmAM paDAvI letA (temanI sAthe pachIthI bhAratIya vepArIo paNa joDAyA hatA). temaNe aneka cInAonAM jIvana eTalAM badhAM pAyamAla karI nAkhyAM ke chevaTe prakope bharAyelA bIjiMganA rAjAe paoNrTugIjho sAme aphINayuddha (Opium war) karyuM. eNe mokalelA eka senApatie potAnA sainiko sAthe AvIne makAumAM aphINanAM badhAM godAmomAM Aga lagADI. AkhuM makAu bhaDake baLyuM hatuM. amane jUnA makAumAM je eka ghara batAvavAmAM AvyuM te cInI krAntikA2ka vicAraka DaoN. suna yAta senanuM hatuM. teo makAunA vatanI hatI. ahIM eka haoNspiTala amane batAvavAmAM AvI. te DaoN. suna yAta senanA nAmanI che ane emAM emanuM
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________________ makAu 65 pUtaLuM mUkavAmAM AvyuM che. DaoN. suna yAta sene rAjAzAhInA jamAnAmAM lokazAhI, rASTrIya bhAvanA ane samAja kalyANa upara bhAra mUkyo ane potAnA vicArono cArebAju pracAra karyo (tyAre mAo jo tuMga haju kSitija para paNa nahotA AvyA). I. sa. 1911mAM cIAMga (cIMga) vaMzanI rAjAzAhIno aMta Avyo ane DaoN. suna yAta sena cInI prajAsattAkanA prathama pramukha banyA. pachI sAmyavAdIo sAthe matabheda thatAM emaNe rAjInAmuM ApyuM ane potAnA kenTana (makAu pAse) vistAramAM AvIne rahyA hatA ane tyAMnI sarakAramAM kAma karyuM hatuM. 1925mAM 70 varSanI vaye emanuM avasAna thayuM hatuM. jUnA makAu nagaramAMthI ame have bahAra AvyA. jene mATe makAu prakhyAta che evA kesinomAMthI eka moTo kesino jovA amane laI javAmAM AvyA. gAiDe kahyuM ke makAumAM ghaNA badhA kesino (jugArakhAnAM) che. emAM agiyAra kesino to eka ja kaMpanInI mAlikInA che. eka kesino samudramAM taratA ane battIothI zaNagArelA jahAjamAM che. moTA bhAganA kesino sAMjathI savAra sudhI khullA hoya che. keTalAka to covIsa kalAka ane bAremAsa cAle che. pALI pramANe karmacArIo badalAya. zukra, zani ane ravi cInathI hajAro cInAo ramavA Ave che. tyAre jagyA na maLe. A vyavasAyane paNa vartamAna jagate navAM navAM sAdhano dvArA keTalo badho vikasAvyo che te najare jovAthI samajAya. jyAre bahu vikAsa thayo nahoto tyAre, hajAro varSa pUrve, zAstrakAroe jugAranI gaNanA vyasanamAM karI hatI e keTaluM badhuM Aje paNa sAcuM lAge che ! jugAra jevuM ja bIjuM vyasana te madyapAna. ahIM makAumAM zarAbanuM eka vizALa myujhima che. Asavapriya porTugIjhoe dArU banAvavAnAM sAdhano uparAMta A saMgrahAlayamAM eka hajAra karatAM vadhu jAtanA namUnA rAkhyA che ane emAMthI roja pacAseka jAtanA dArU mulAkAtIone cAkhavA mATe Ape che. amArAmAMnA eka yuropiyana pravAsIe kahyuM, "A to bahu sAruM kahevAya. myujhiyamanI TikiTa laIne dArU maphata cAkhI levAnuM sastuM paDe." "nA, evuM nathI. je je dArU cAkhavo hoya tenI judI TikiTa levI paDe che. A sAMbhaLI e pravAsIno utsAha osarI gayo. myujhiyama ane bIjAM keTalAMka sthaLo joIne ame makAunA bIjA TApu para gayA. be TApu vacce navo lAMbo pula bAMdhavAmAM Avyo che. enuM nAma che "maitrI pula'. tyAM eka udyAnamAM "kuma lAna'nuM kamaLa para navuM moTuM pUtaLuM banAvIne mUkavAmAM AvyuM che. e TApu para tAIpa ane kolone nAmanAM be nagara che. vaLI, dariyo pUrIne kareluM mAnavasarjita moTuM sarovara che. ame TheTha cInanI sarahada sudhI jaI AvyA. sarahadanI
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________________ pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 bIjI bAju, cInanA taLa pradezamAM, ce hAI nAmanA gAmamAM chellA be dAyakAmAM aneka bahumALI makAno baMdhAI gayAM che, jANe bAju bAjumAM moTAM moTAM khokhAM goThavyAM na hoya ! evI ja rIte makAumAM paNa ghaNAM makAno thayAM che. makAu porTugIjha saMsthAna maTI, cInanI hakUmata heThaLa pacAsa varSa mATe svAyatta rAjya thaze eTale vepAra rojagAranI ghaNI tako khullI thaze evI gaNatarIe zrImaMta cInAoe ghaNAMbadhAM makAno bAMdhI nAkhyAM, paraMtu dhAryuM hatuM tevuM thayuM nahi. vepArIo nirAza thaI gayA. Azare pAMtrIsa hajAra jeTalA epArTamenTa khAlI paDyA che. vecAto ke bhADe lenAra khAsa koI nathI. jemaNe jUnuM makAu joyuM haze temane navuM makAu bahu juduM lAgaze. enuM eka mukhya kAraNa te sattA parivartana che. yuga5rivartana thatAM sattA parivartana paNa kyAreka thAya che. yuropIya saMsthAnavAdanA sUryano have asta thayo che. briTane vIsa varSanA vAyade 1997mAM haoNMgakaoNMga cInane suprata karyuM, tevI rIte paoNrTugalane paNa 1999mAM makAu suparata karavuM paDyuM, paraMtu sADAcAraso varSamAM makAuno je vikAsa nahoto thayo te A vIsa varSamAM thayo. makAunI sarakArI tijorImAM jamA rahelI rakama cInane soMpavAne badale eno tvarita upayoga porTugale rastAo, pulo, haoNspiTalo, skUlo, haoNTelo, udyAno, bahumALI makAno, saMgrahAlayo, sarovara vagerenA bAMdhakAmamAM karI nAMkhyo. - sAMja paDI gaI hatI. AkhA divasamAM makAumAM ame ghaNuM joyuM ane haju ghaNuM bAkI rahI gayuM. jhagamagatI battIono prakAza vadhavA lAgyo. nizAcara makAuno have divasa zarU thayo. hoMgakoMgathI AvatA pravAsIono dhasAro vadhavA lAgyo. paNa amAre to hoMgakoMga pAchA pharavAnuM hatuM. gAiDa harTa amane baMdara para mUkI gaI. pAsaporTamAM sikko marAvI ame sTImaramAM besIne hoMgakaoNMgamAM svasthAne pAchA pharyA.
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________________ 11 qilinamAM sthAnika jAtino khela thAnamAM advitIya saundarya dharAvanArA je keTalAka pradezo che temAM kyuilina (Gullinno uccAra vuilina, kviAlina paNa thAya che)no pradeza paNa mazahUra che. qi e eka prakAranA ghaTAdAra vRkSanuM nAma che. lina eTale jaMgala. be hajAra varSathI paNa pahelAM jyAre A nAma paDyuM haze tyAre ahIM jyuinAM vRkSonuM moTuM jaMgala haze. zAMta vahetI, vaLAMka letI lijiyAMga (TUMkuM nAma li) nadI, vicitra AkAranA vividha parvato, vizALa khetaro tathA bharacaka vanarAjithI sabhara evA A ilAkAnuM sauMdarya ja anokhuM che. savAre, bapore ke sAMje game tyAre juo, enAM dRzyonI AbhA ja nirALI. kyAMka nadInA svaccha zAMta jaLamAM pratibimbita thatA DuMgaronI manohara chabI jotAM nayana dharAtAM nathI. naisargika ramaNIyatAne kAraNe kyuilinane dakSiNa cInanA caLakatA motI tarIke oLakhAvavAmAM Ave che. prAkRtika sauMdarya, madhyama varasAda, sAnukULa samazItoSNa havAmAna ityAdine kAraNe A phaLadrupa vistAranI vasavATa mATenI yogyatA samajAtAM, be hajAra varSa pUrve kina vaMzanA rAjAoe rAjakIya, Arthika ane sAMskRtika kendra tarIke vuDalinanI pasaMdagI karI hatI. uttara ane dakSiNa cIna vaccenA vANijya-vinimaya mATe paNa A eka mahattvanuM mathaka banI gayuM. hatuM. kavuilina haoNMgakaoNMganI najIka vAyavya dizAmAM AveluM che, paraMtu amAro pravAsa bIjiMgathI dakSiNamAM ziAna (Xianno uccAra kSiyAna paNa thAya che) thaIne qilina javAno hato. ziAnathI bapore vimAnamAM nIkaLI sAMje ame vuDalina pahoMcI gayA. eraporTa para levA AvelA amArA gAIDanuM nAma hatuM vaoNna. te iMgliza sAruM bolato hato. eraporTathI qilina zahera Azare 30 kilomITara dUra che. amArI gADI cAlI eTale vaoNne A pradezano paricaya Apavo zarU karyo. be hajAra varSa pUrve A prAMtanuM nAma ziAMga hatuM. hajAra varSa pahelAM soMga vaMzanA rAjAonA rAjyakALa daramiyAna A vistArano ghaNo vikAsa thayo hato. vepAra vadhyo; loko sukhI thayA; bauddha dharmano pracAra thayo; maMdiro baMdhAyAM; guphAo kotarAI. e kALe qilina dakSiNa cInanuM sAMskRtika kendra banyuM. baMne kAMThe vahetI lijiyAMga nadIno phALo A vikAsamAM moTo rahyo che.
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________________ 18 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 cInanA A pradezamAM paMcAvana jeTalI judI judI AnuvaMzika jAtio (Nationalities) che. emAM mukhyatve hAna jAtinA loko che, je cInamAM anya pradezomAM paNa che. hAna uparAMta thAo, jhuvAMga, miyAo, TaoNga vagere jAtinA loko paNa vase che. uttaramAM bIjiMga bAjunA cInAo gorA che. A bAjunA cInAo AchA ke gherA ghauvarNA che. duniyAnAM moTAM zaheronI sukhI, saMpanna ane suzikSita prajAnI khAsiyatonI eka judI ja chApa paDe che, paraMtu dUra dUranAM aMtariyALa gAmaDAMonA lokonI mukhAkRti, varNa, zarIrano bAMdho, bhASA, paheraveza, gIta-nRtya, khAnapAna, sAmAjika rItarivAjo ityAdinI dRSTie keTalIka AgavI lAkSaNikatAo hoya che. dAkhalA tarIke A pradezamAM koI yuvatIe mAthAnA vALa laTakatA rAkhyA hoya, paNa emAM becAra pina bharAvI hoya to samajavuM ke enAM lagna thaI gayAM che. koI mahilAe mAthe aMboDo vALyo hoya to samajavuM ke eka ke vadhAre chokarAnI e mA che. AvI prAdezika, sthAnika jAtinA loko laghumatImAM rahevAnA. paNa teonI pAse paNa bahAranA loko AgaLa rajU karI zakAya evI kaLA-kArIgIrI hoya che. temanAM gIta- nRtyAdimAM Agavo laheko anubhavI zakAya che. vaoNne vAtavAtamAM kahyuM ke ahIM sthAnika jAtino khela (Minority Show) jovA jevo hoya che. ahIM AvanAra pravAsIo e khAsa jue che. Aje sAMje e jovAmAM tamane rasa che ? hA, jarUra. kyAM hoya che ? keTalA vAge ?' mArA mitre pUchyuM. tamArI hoTelamAM ja. samaya paNa rAtano sADAAThano che.' hoTelamAM ja che ane samaya paNa anukULa che. ame jarUra joIzuM." "enI tamAre TikiTa levI paDe. eka TikiTanA che 80 yuAna." (Azare rUpiyA pAMcaso.) A to bahu moMghI TikiTa kahevAya. hA, to paNa badhI sITa bharAI jAya che. pachI TikiTa maLatI nathI. emAM bhojana ane pINuM AvI jAya che. tamane icchA hoya to huM tamArA mATe be TikiTa buka karAvI dauM.' 'bhale', ame vicAra karIne saMmati darzAvI. to tamArA baMnenA 170 yuAna Apo, eTale huM ahIMthI ja phona karIne TikiTa rakhAvI lauM.' paisA ApavAnI vAta AvI eTale AvI bAbatamAM anubhavI, vyavahAradakSa
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________________ kyuilinamAM sthAnika jAtino khela se mArA mitre gujarAtImAM mane kahyuM, 'have thoDI vAramAM ja hoTela Ave che. ApaNe tyAM jaIne nakkI karIe to kema ?' meM kahyuM, 'vaoNna ! ema karone, ame hoTelanA rUmamAM goThavAI jaIe, pachI khelanI TikiTanuM nakkI karIne tamane kahIe.' 'bhale, paNa utAvaLa rAkhajo, pachI TikiTa maLaze nahi.' kyuilina vize bIjI keTalIka vAto thaI. tyAM kyuilina AvI pahoMcyuM. erapaoNrTathI zahera sudhIno rasto bahu pahoLo nahoto, paNa sarasa hato. AsapAsanuM kudaratI vAtAvaraNa paNa svaccha ane suMdara hatuM. zaherano rasto khADAvALo, dhULiyo hato. vastI gIca hatI. cInamAM badhe hoya che tema ahIM paNa sAIkalo ghaNI hatI. vRddhAo paNa sAikala calAve. amArI gADInI gati maMda paDI gaI. vaoNne kahyuM, amArA zaherano pravAsakendra tarIke vikAsa thaI rahyo hovAthI rastAo pahoLA banAvAya che. e mATe vacce AvatAM makAno toDI paDAya che.' ame beya bAju joyuM to lAinadorInI kapAtamAM AvatAM makAno mApa pramANe kapAyAM hatAM. bulaDojharo pharI rahyAM hatAM. keTalAMka makAnonI aDadhI dIvAla ja kapAI hatI. ame joyuM ke eka makAnanI osarImAM eka vayovRddha daMpatI khATalo DhALIne beThAM hatAM. lAinadorInI kapAtamAM potAnuM ghara bacI gayAno emane AnaMda hato. vaoNne kahyuM ke, 'juvAna mANasone potAnuM ghara kapAI jAya eno AnaMda hoya che, kAraNa ke sarakAra taraphathI emane navuM sAruM ghara maLaze. vRddhone navA vistAramAM, navA gharamAM, navA pADozIo vacce jaIne rahevuM gamatuM nathI. jevI jenI dRSTi ane jevuM jenuM nasIba.' hoTela para pahoMcI ame amArI rUmamAM sAmAna goThavIne nIce AvyA. daramiyAna vicArI lIdhuM ke Aje pravAsano thAka che, to AvatI kAle svasthatApUrvaka khela jovAnuM sAruM raheze. nIce vaoNna rAha joto ja Ubho hato, ame amAro vicAra jaNAvyo. eNe kahyuM, 'to AvatI kAlanI tamArI be TikiTa huM laI lauM ? kAraNa ke pachI TikiTa nahi maLe.' 'tamane kAle savAre kahIe to ?' 'kAle mArI DyuTI nathI. mane 160 yuAna Apo eTale tamane rUma para TikiTa pahoMcADI daIza.' vaoNnanI utAvaLa amane gamI nahi. te sahetuka lAgI. ame kahyuM, 'tamAro phona naMbara Apo. ame sADAsAta vAge jaNAvIzuM.' phona naMbara ApI vaoNna vidAya thayo. ame haoNTelanA udyAnamAM AvelA
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________________ 70 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 resTorAMmAM kaoNphI lIdhI. evAmAM amArI najara cheTe AvelA raMgamaMca para gaI. pUchatAM jaNAyuM ke khela tyAM ja thAya che. TikiTa mATe risepzanisTane maLyA ane pUchyuM to kahyuM ke eka TikiTanA 90 yuAna che. sAta vAge enuM juduM kAunTara udyAnanA daravAjA pAse cAla thAya che. paNa TikiTa tarata maLI jAya che ?' sAmAnya rIte maLI jAya che. sivAya ke koI bahu moTA grupe agAuthI bukiMga karAvyuM hoya.' vaoNnanI utAvaLa amane samajAI. TikiTa dITha 20 yuAnano gALo eNe rAkhyo hato. pravAsanA vyavasAyamAM AvuM banavuM svAbhAvika che. sAta vAge kAunTara khUlyuM eTale ame pahoMcI gayA. bIjA divasa mATe be TikiTanuM kahyuM. vaLI kahyuM, "amArI eka vinaMtI che. ame zarAba pItA nathI. amane bIjuM koI ThaMDuM pINuM Apazo to cAlaze ane ame zuddha zAkAhArI chIe eTale amane bhojana zAkAhArI Apajo.' ThaMDA pINAnI vyavasthA thaI zakaze, paNa bhojana to mAMsAhArI ja che. badhAne mATe ekasarakhI ja vAnagI che." 'to tame evuM karI zako ke ame bhojana na laIe, phakta khela ja joIe. tame khelanA paisA lo, bhojananA nahi." nA, ema nahi thaI zake. bhojana lo ke na lo, tamAre vyaktidITha 60 yuAna ApavA ja paDaze.' phakta khela jovAnI TikiTa na ApI zako ?' "nA, ema nahi thaI zake. je TikiTa che te to jhiMka ane DinaranI che. khela to amArA mAnavaMtA mahemAnonA manoraMjana mATe maphata che. ame khela jovAnI rakama letA nathI. khurazImAM besavAnI rakama laIe chIe." "to ame UbhA UbhA khela joI zakIe ?' ame majAkamAM pUchyuM, paNa eNe gaMbhIratAthI javAba Apyo, "doDha kalAka UbhA rahIne tame thAkI jAva ane TikiTa laIne besanArA mahemAnonI ADe tame Avo." - ame vicAra karyo ke bIjA divasanI TikiTa pachI paNa jo maLavAnI hoya to atyArathI laIne sAcavavAnI zI jarUra ? ame rUmamAM AvIne bhojanAdithI paravArIne beThA. vaoNnane phona ame karyo nahi ane eno Avyo paNa nahi. ame vividha prakAranA anubhavonI vAto karatA hatA, tyAM mArA mitrane meM kahyuM, "ApaNe bArInA paDadA kholI nAkhIe, jethI savAre
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________________ qilinamAM sthAnika jAtino khela rUmamAM ajavALuM Ave ke tarata khabara paDe." mitre paDado kholatAMnI sAthe ja kahyuM, are, ahIMthI to AkhuM sTeja dekhAya che. badhI khurazIo dekhAya che. ahIM beThAM beThAM ApaNe khela barAbara joI zakIe chIe." meM tarata UbhA thaIne joyuM. mitranI vAta sAcI hatI. bArI pAse khurazI goThavIne Akho khela joI zakAya. paNa mArA manamAM prazna thayo ke AvI rIte maphata khela jovo te zuM yogya che ? emAM ziSTAcArano bhaMga thAya ane nItiniyamano paNa bhaMga thAya. mitre tarata risepzanisTane phona joDyo. javAba maLyo ke rUmamAMthI khela khuzIthI joI zakAya, khelanA paisA nathI. Dinara ane jhiMkanA paisA che. bArImAMthI jovAmAM koI nItiniyamano bhaMga nathI. nIce AvIne pAchaLa UbhA rahIne paNa joI zakAya.' ame gapATA mAratA bArI pAse ja beThA. ATha vAge Tebalo goThavAI gayAM. savAAThathI mahemAno AvavA lAgyA. sADAATha thatAM pINAM, vAnagIo vagere pIrasAvA lAgyAM. ghaNIkharI khurazIo bharAI gaI. TikiTo ugharAvA lAgI. vadhu sAruM dekhAya e mATe keTalAka khurazI badalatA hatA. navanA Takore joradAra saMgIta sAthe khela zarU thayo. e jovA mATe bIjAM keTalAMka pravAsI strIpuruSo AvIne khAlI khurazImAM besI gayAM. veiTaroe AvIne teone uThADIne chelle UbhAM rAkhI dIdhAM. khela kharekhara sarasa hato. khela karanArA sthAnika jAtinA hatA, paNa vyAvasAyika hatA. teonAM nRtyamAM, abhinayamAM, ramata-karAmatamAM dakSatA dekhAtI hatI. alabatta, keTalIka vastumAM ahIMnI jAtinI vizeSatA nahotI. cInA lokonI herata pamADe evI A jANItI ramata-karAmata che. AMgaLI upara ke dAMDI upara ekasAthe ghaNI badhI rakAbIo pheravavI, pheravatAM pheravatAM badalavI, uchALavI, ekasAthe chasAta daDA uchALavA, eka paiDAnI sAikalanA prayogo karavA, beya bAjuthI khullA evA sAMkaDA pIpamAMthI ArapAra nIkaLavuM ityAdi prayogo cIna uparAMta bIjA dezomAM paNa jovA maLe che. emAM ekAgratAnI sAdhanA rahelI che. kalAkAroe paMkhA sAthe, rUmAla sAthe, sAMbelA sAthe ema vividha prakAranuM je nRtya karyuM ane gIto gAyAM tathA e mATe je vezabhUSA dhAraNa karI hatI emAM emanI prAdezika jAtinI vizeSatA rahelI hatI. traNeka nRtya evAM hatAM ke jemAM mahemAno paNa joDAI zake ane sahelAIthI tAlabaddha nRtya karI zake. kalAkAroe eka kalAkamAM to ghaNuM badhuM batAvyuM. khelanAM dazyo jhaDapathI badalAtAM hatAM. nRtyo, gIto, samatulAnA prayogo ityAdi trIsa karatAM vadhu jovA maLyAM. badhA Azcaryamugdha thaI gayA. tALIonA gaDagaDATathI saue teone vadhAvyA.
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 kAryakrama pUro thatAM prekSako vIkharAvA lAgyA. vadhArAnI lAiTo baMdha thavA lAgI. ame AsapAsa najara karI. hoTelanA bIjA keTalAka pravAsIoe paNa amArI jema potAnI bArImAMthI khela joyo hato. meM kahyuM, "vAha ! A to sarasa kahevAya. darekanA sATha yuAna bacyA ane rUmamAM beThAM beThAM ArAmathI Akho khela mANavA maLyo." sATha yuAna to AjanA. AvatI kAle pharIthI A khela joIe to bIjA sATha yuAna paNa bace." mArA mitre sUcana karyuM. ane bIje divase A sUcanano amala paNa thayo.
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________________ 12 vikToriyA dhodha IsavIsananA ogaNIsamA zatakamAM thaI gayelAM iMglaeNnDanAM bAhoza mahArANI vikToriyA keTalAM badhAM bhAgyazALI hatAM ke emanA jamAnAmAM ane tyAra pachI paNa briTana uparAMta briTiza saMsthAnomAM ane anyatra aneka sthaLone, imArato vagerene emanuM nAma apAyuM che [bhAratamAM sauprathama relavelAina muMbaImAM nakhAI tyAre prathama sTezana borIbaMdarane 'vikToriyA Tarminasa' (vI. TI.) evuM nAma apAyuM hatuM. eka jamAnAmAM muMbaImAM ghoDAgADIne loko 'vikToriyA' kahetA.] AphrikA khaMDamAM moTAmAM moTuM sarovara te 'vikToriyA sarovara' che ane moTAmAM moTo dhodha te 'vikToriyA dhodha' che. te samayanAM briTiza saMsthAnomAM A dhodha ane sarovara AvelAM che. AphrikA khaMDanA dakSiNa bhAgamAM AvelA jhimbAbve (jUnuM nAma rUhoDeziyA) rASTramAM vikToriyA dhodha jhAmbejhI nAmanI nadI upara Avelo che. tyAM gAmanuM nAma, relavesTezananuM nAma, erapaoNrTanuM nAma 'vikToriyA phaoNlsa' che ane saikA pahelAM tyAM baMdhAyelI pahelI ane moTAmAM moTI hoTelanuM nAma paNa 'vikToriyA phaoNlsa' che. 1976mAM A dhodhanuM navuM nAma 'cinmaya zAnti prapAta' - Chinmay Peace Falls 2khAyuM che, paNa te rUDha thatAM hajI vAra lAgaze. A dhodhane 'vikToriyA' evuM nAma koNe ApyuM ? iMglaeNnDanA mahAna zodhasapharI DeviDa liviMgsTane. liviMgsTana (1813-1873) skaoNTalaeNnDanA briTiza vatanI hatA. dAktarI vyavasAya choDI, carcamAM pAdarI tarIke joDAI, carcanI AjJAnusAra madhya AphrikAmAM dharmanA pracArArthe teo AvyA hatA, paNa emano jIva sAhasika zodhasapharIno hato. aneka saMkaTo veThIne durgama pradezono emaNe pravAsa kheDyo hato ane potAnA anubhavonA vigatavAra ahevAlo lakhyA hatA. sthAnika kALA Aphrikana loko sAthe, potAnA mAyALu svabhAvane kA2Ne bhaLatAM emane vAra lAgI nahotI. teo emanI ja bhASA bolatA ane emanI jema rahetA. temanI icchA AphrikA choDI pAchA skaoNTalaeNnDa javAnI nahotI. emaNe carca sAthe saMparka choDI dIdho hato. eTale ja teo jIve che ke nahi enI bhALa kADhavA 'nyU yaoNrka heralDa' nAmanA akhabAre potAnA khabarapatrI henrI morTana sTenlIne mokalyA hatA. tapAsa karatAM karatAM sTenlIe TAMgAnikA sarovaranA kinAre UjIjI nAmanA gAmamAM eka jhUMpaDAmAM liviMgsTanane
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 74 zodhI kADhyA. tyAre liviMgsTana meleriyA tAvamAM paTakAyA hatA. tyAra pachI sAjA thatAM liviMgsTane sTenlI sAthe sarova2mAM saphara karI, zodhasapharonA anubhavonI vAto thaI ane sTenlI pAchA pharyA. liviMgsTane AphrikAmAM ja potAnuM jIvana pUruM karyuM. liviMgsTane cAlIsa varSanI vaye, I. sa. 1855nA navembaramAM A vikToriyA dhodhanI zodha karI hatI. e divasomAM jyAre relave nahotI, baLadagADI ke ghoDAgADI nahotI, tyAre sAhasiko jaMgalamAM keDIe ke keDI vagara AgaLa vadhatA jatA, nakazAo banAvatA tathA noMdha lakhatA jatA. AvuM kaparuM kArya sthAnika AdivAsI jaMgalI jAtinA lokonA sahakAra vagara zakya nahotuM. liviMgsTana jhAmbejhI nadImAM bAnTu jAtinA sAthIdAro sAthe AgaLa vadhatA hatA. sthAnika lokoe e mATe jhADanA moTA jADA lAMbA thaDamAMthI kotarIne hoDI banAvI ApI hatI. AvI hAlakaDolaka thatI jokhamI gAmaThI hoDImAM teo AgaLa vadhatA hatA tyAM emaNe nadI u52 dUra dhummasa jevuM joyuM. tarata anumAna thayuM ke tyAM pANI nIce paDatuM hovuM joIe eTale ke tyAM dhodha hovo joIe. have nadIno vega vadhatAM hoDImAM javAya evuM nahotuM. eTale hoDI choDIne eka bAjunA kinAre teo AgaLa vadhyA. dhodha mATe cAlatA javAmAM jokhama hatuM. eTale pAsenA eka nAnA TApu para jaI, sUtAM sUtAM, peTa ghasaDatAM teo AgaLa vadhyA ane dhodha nihALyo. Avo vizALa dhodha jotAM liviMgsTananA harSaromAMcano pAra na rahyo. jiMdagImAM pahelI vAra AvuM adbhuta dRzya joyuM. teo manathI nAcI UThyA. emanA mukhamAMthI sahaja udgAra sarI paDyA, 'potAnI pAMkho vaDe UDatA devadUtoe AvAM ramaNIya dazyo avazya joyAM haze !' (Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by Angels in their flight) AvA pracaMDakAya benamUna bhavya dhodhanuM nAma zuM rAkhavuM ? liviMgsTanane thayuM ke AvA dhodhane to potAnI mahArANI vikToriyAnuM nAma ja zobhe. emaNe potAnA ahevAlamAM A dhodhane 'vikToriyA dhodha' (Victoria Falls) tarIke oLakhAvyo. tyArathI eTale ke I. sa. 1885thI e vikToriyA dhodha tarIke jANIto rahyo che. liviMgsTane A dhodhanI zodha karIne bahAranI duniyAne enI jANa karI te pahelAM sthAnika Aphrikana lokone to enI khabara hatI ja. temaNe ene ApeluM kAvyamaya nAma che 'garjanA karato dhumADo' (mosI-oA-tunyA, Smoke that thunders). moTA dhodhamAM pANI eTaluM badhuM jorathI paDatuM hoya che ke enAM UDatAM sIkarothI dhummasa ke dhumADA jevuM dRzya sarjAya che. e dRzya eTaluM moTuM hoya ke dUrathI dhodhanuM paDatuM pANI na dekhAya, paNa dhaDadhaDa avAja saMbhaLAya. dhumADo avAja kare nahi, paNa ahIM to enI garjanA saMbhaLAya che. eTale sthAnika lokoe sarasa nAma ApyuM, 'garjanA karato dhumADo'.
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________________ 75 vikToriyA dhodha | vikToriyA dhodhanI zodha to thaI, paraMtu yuropanA pravAsapriya ene kalArasika lokomAM ane prasiddhi maLI citrakAra thomasa beInsa dorelAM dhodhanAM moTAM bahuraMgI citrothI. teo AphrikA AvyA hatA to liviMsTananA madadanIza tarIke kAma karavA, paraMtu liviMsTane 1957mAM jyAre emane A dhodha batAvyo tyAre to teo AbhA ja banI gayA. tarata emanI pIMchI saLavaLI ane emaNe judI judI dizAethI dekhAtAM dRzyone kenvAsamAM utAryA. pahelI vAranI A mulAkAtathI saMtoSa na thatAM 1862mAM teo ahIM bIjI vAra AvyA ane be aThavADiyAM rokAI bIjAM citro doryA. emanAM citroe yuropanI prajAne A dhodha jovA mATe ghelI karI. pravAsIono pravAha eTalo vadhato gayo ke vakhata jatAM briTiza sarakAre kepaTAunathI vikToriyA pholsa sudhI relave bAMdhavAnuM TharAvyuM ane e thatAM Aja divasa sudhI hajAro pravAsIo A dhodha nihALavA Ave che. A dhodha jovAnI eka suMdara taka amane paNa sAMpaDI hatI. dakSiNa AphrikAnA pravAsa daramiyAna pacAseka sabhyonI amArI mitramaMDaLI johAnisabargathI vikToriyA pholsa pahoMcI hatI. tyAM jhAmbejhI nadInA kAMThe vizALa parisaramAM AvelI beThA ghATanAM makAnovALI jhAkhejhI rivara laoNjamAM amAro utAro hato. potapotAnA rUmamAM goThavAI gayA pachI ame AsapAsa laTAra mArI. sAMje Aphrikana lokanRtyano sAMskRtika kAryakrama hato. dareka prajAnA vAstavika jIvanano dhabakAra enA lokanRtyamAM jovA maLe. A bAjunA pradezanI traNa judI judI jAtinAM nRtyomAM jaMgalI hiMsaka prANIono Dara, bhUtapretanA camatkAro, jAtio vaccenI laDAIo, zikAranI yuktio tathA ghAsa ane cAmaDAMmAMthI banAvelI vezabhUSA ane bhayAnaka mahorAM, dharatI dhrujAve evAM paDatAM pagalAM ane DholanagArAM tathA ziMgaDAM-pipUDInA kakaTu avAjo ityAdi dhyAnAkarSaka hatAM. ahIM amArA mATe eka divasa dhodhanAM darzana mATe ane eka divasa jhAkhejhI nadImAM sahelagAha mATe rakhAyo hato. bIje divase savAre ame dhodha jovA nIkaLyA. ame basamAM beThA paNa haju keTalAMka bhAIbahena AvyAM nahotAM. mitravartuLa hoya eTale thoDuM moDuM vaheluM thAya. teo AvyAM tyAre pUchyuM, "kema moDuM thayuM ?' javAba maLyo, "keLAM, sapharajana vagere lIdhAM te rUmamAM mUkavA pAchAM gayAM eTale moDuM thayuM." sAthe khAvA mATe kaMI lIdhuM che ne ?' lIdhuM che ne. tame na lIdhuM hoya to nizcita rahejo. ame ApIzuM." amArI basa UpaDI ane dhodhanA pravezadvAra pAse pahoMcI. amArA bhomiyAe kahyuM, "tamAruM grUpa moTuM che ane ahIM jovAnI jagyA vizALa che. badhAnI gati ekasarakhI na hoya ane rasa paNa ekasarakho na hoya. ahIM eka cheDethI bIjA cheDA
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 sudhI, thobhIne jovA mATe paMdara poinTa che. tamArI anukULatA pramANe karazo. bapora pachI ApaNe helikaoNpTaramAM javAnuM goThavIzuM." pravezadvAramAM dAkhala thayA pachI DAbI bAjuthI jotAM jotAM jamaNI bAju javAthI, khINanI sAmenI bAjue AvelA dhodhanuM uttarottara vadhu ramaNIya dRzya jovA maLe che. paoNinTanA naMbara paNa e rIte ApelA che. dhodhanI sAmeno pravAsIono A vistAra ghaTAdAra vRkSo ane jhADIvALo che. prakhara taDakAmAM ethI rAhata rahe che. eka paoNinTathI bIjA paoNinTa sudhI ane ema chevaTa sudhI keDI pAkI bAMdhavAmAM AvI che ke jethI na calAya te loko vhIlaceramAM jaI zake. amArAmAMnA keTalAke eno lAbha paNa lIdho. DAbI bAju sauprathama TeviDa liviMsTananuM zodhatapharInA paheravezamAM, bUTa, enkaleTa ane chAjalIvALI TopIvALuM UbhuM pUtaLuM che. sAmI bAju dhodha jotAM ja lAge ke jANe pANIno lAMbo vizALa paDado Ubho na karyo hoya ! savApAMca hajAra phUTa pahoLo A dhodha duniyAmAM pahoLAmAM pahoLo dhodha che. te Azare traNaso phUTa nIce paDe che. A dhodhanI lAkSaNikatA e che ke bIjA ghaNA-kharA dhodhanuM uparathI paDatuM pANI nIce sudhI joI zakAya che; nIce jaIne boTamAM dhodha pAse jaI zakAya che. paNa evuM ahIM nathI. pRthvInA paDamAM acAnaka moTo lAMbo cIro paDyo hoya ane nadInuM dhasamasatuM pANI ociMtuM nIce paDI jAya evo A dhodha che. bhUstarazAstrIo mAne che ke paMdaravIsa karoDa varSa pUrve A pradezamAM phATelA jvALAmukhIonA lAvArasanA nakkara thaI gayelA paththaromAM moTA dharatIkaMpathI lAMbI phATa paDI gaI haze. ethI vahetI nadImAM A dhodhanuM kudaratI nirmANa thayuM haze. helikopTaramAMthI joIe to A vAta tarata spaSTa samajAya evI che. A dhodhamAM vadhumAM vadhu pANI hoya che tyAre eka miniTamAM paMcAvana karoDa liTara jeTaluM pANI nIce paDe che. enA chAMTA, jalabiMduo paMdaraso phUTa UMce UDe che. ethI dhummasa ke dhumADA jevuM vAtAraNa dUrathI dekhAya che. ene lIdhe nIce paDatuM pANI barAbara dekhAtuM nathI, dhUMdhaLuM dekhAya che, jANe ke ApaNane AMkhe motiyo Avyo na hoya ! eTale ja ahIM be paoNinTane "keTerekTa (motiyo) paoNinTa' evuM nAma ApavAmAM AvyuM che. moTo dhodha hoya tyAM satata UDatAM sIkaromAM meghadhanuSya dekhAya. eTale eka paoNinTane ahIM "reinabo paoNinTa' evuM nAma ApyuM che. eka bAju dhodhano AkAra ghoDAnI nALa (Horse shoe) jevo dekhAya che, eTale ene evuM nAma ApavAmAM AvyuM che. je jagyAe bAre mAsa divasarAta jaththAbaMdha pANI paDe che tene mukhya dhodha (Main Falls) kahe che. eka paoNinTane "Denja2 paoNinTa' nAma apAyuM che, kAraNa ke tyAM sAcavIne javuM paDe che ane tyAMthI nIce nihALatAM khINanI bhayAnakatAno khyAla Ave che.
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________________ vikToriyA dhodha dhodhanI eka bAju nAno TApu che. enuM nAma che "liviMsTana TApu" ke jyAMthI liviMsTane pahelavahelAM A dhodhanAM darzana karyA hatAM. bIjI eka bAju khINane joDato relaveno pula bAMdhavAmAM Avyo che ke jethI musApharo TrenamAM beThAM beThAM garjato dhodha nihALI zake ane UDatAM jalabiMduothI bhIMjAIne romAMca anubhavI zake. bhomiyAe amane kahyuM ke, "A dhodhanI khAsiyata e che ke comAsAmAM pANI ochuM paDe che ane unALAmAM vadhAre paDe che.' sAcI vAta che ? AvuM kema ?' sAcI vAta che. ahIM comAsuM navembarathI mArca sudhI hoya che. tyAre najIkamAM paDelA varasAdathI dhodhanA pANInI sAdhAraNa vRddhi thAya che, paraMtu pachI eprila-me mahinAmAM eno jalarAzi ekadama vadhI jAya che, kAraNa ke jhAmbejhI nadIno dhodhamAra varasAdathI pANI bharAvAno vistAra (Catchment Area) ahIMthI Azare eka hajAra mAIla dUra che. aneka vaLAMkovALI nadImAM AvelA e pUrane ahIM sudhI pahoMcatAM be-aDhI mahinA lAgI jAya che.' kudaratamAM paNa kevI vicitra vyavasthA hoya che ! ame dhodha jotAM jotAM eka paoNinTathI bIjA paoNinTa para jatA hatA. koI utAvaLa hatI nahi. ramaNIya dhodha parathI najara khaseDavAnuM gamatuM nahi. enA patanamAM ane patananA udyoSamAM zravaNamadhura laya hato. eka naMbarathI chellA naMbara sudhI khAsse cAlavAnuM che. keTalIka keDIo vAMkIcUkI che, paNa emAM bhUlA paDAya evuM nahotuM, kAraNa ke sthAnika copagA bhomiyAo amane dorI jatA hatA. e bhomiyA hatA vAMdarAo. teo ApaNI sAva najIka AgaLa AgaLa cAle. keDImAM be phAMTA Ave to e ApaNane sAcI bAju laI jAya. temanI cAlamAM sAhajikatA ane nirbhayatA hatI. ApaNe UbhA rahIe to ApaNI rAha jotA besI rahe. teo A je sevA svecchAe bajAvatA te bakSisanI AzAe. ame sAthe lIdhelAM keLAM, caNA, biskiTa ApIne emane prasanna karyA. prakRtinAM keTalAMka tattvomAM evI khUbI hoya che ke pratyeka vakhate te navuM saundarya dhAraNa kare. vikToriyA dhodhanuM paNa evuM ja che. e savAre juo, bapore ke sAMje juo, aMdhArI rAte juo ke pUnamanI rAte, unALAmAM juo ke ziyALAmAM, dareka vakhate eNe navuM ja rUpa dhAraNa kareluM hoya ! bapora pachI ame helikaoNpTaramAM besIne jhAmbejhI nadI ane vikToriyA dhodhanuM cAre bAjuthI vihaMgAvalokana (helikaoNpTarAvalokana) karyuM. e karIe tyAre ja dharatImAM paDelI lAMbI phATa sahita prapAtano saMpUrNa vAstavika khyAla Ave che. amane to thoDe dUra nadInA pANImAM ramata karatA hAthIo paNa jovA maLyA.
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________________ 78 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 dhodha joI ame utAre pAchA pharyA. badhA potapotAnAM kAmamAM vyasta banI gayA. ame keTalIka mAhitI mATe risepzanisTa pAse UbhA hatA tyAM savAravALAM pelAM bahenoe AvIne phariyAda karI, "amArI rUma koIe kholI hatI ? ame savAre keLAM ane bIjuM khAvAnuM mUkIne gayAM hatAM te koI laI gayuM che.' bahena, rUma to koIe kholI nahi hoya, paNa tame bArI ke bAlakanInuM bAraNuM khulluM rAkhyuM hatuM ?' "khabara nathI." jarUra khulluM rahI gayuM haze. vAMdarAo tamAruM khAvAnuM upADI gayA haze. ahIM vAMdarAono trAsa che. e mATe dareka rUmamAM ame sUcanA mUkI ja che.' pachIthI khabara paDI ke potAnuM khAvAnuM gayAno anubhava bIjA traNa jaNane paNa thayo hato. vAMdarAo AvuM baMdhukRtya pakSapAtarahitapaNe karatA hoya che. | vikToriyA dhodhanuM bhavya darzana e jiMdagIno eka lahAvo che. ame 21 sapTembara, 2000nA roja dhodhanAM darzana karyA. e divasa amane vadhAre yAda eTalA mATe rahI gayo che ke te divase rAtre muMbaImAM, nakhamAMye roga vagaranA, lAkaDInA TekA vagara cAlanArA, potAnuM badhuM kArya jAte karI lenArA 104 varSanI uMmaranA mArA pitAzrIe UMghamAM samAdhipUrvaka deha choDyo enA samAcAra ApavA svajanoe phona karyo hato. pitAzrInuM jIvana paNa dhodha jevuM bhavya hatuM.
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________________ 13 haMsa paigoDA mULa saMskRta bhASAno ApaNo bhAratIya zabda "haMsa" IsavI sananA sAtamA saikAmAM cInamAM eka moTA paigoDAne nAma ApavA mATe prayojAyo hato evuM jyAre jANavA maLe tyAre keTalo badho AnaMda thAya ! paigoDAne haMsa' evuM vizeSa nAma ApavAnI phuraNA kone thaI haze ? te kALe bhArata AvelA suprasiddha cInI yAtrI huAna saMgane AvuM sarasa sArthaka nAma ApavAnuM gamyuM hatuM (haMsa' zabda cInamAM gayo eTale vakhata jatAM eno uccAra tyAM haMgasa', "heMgasuo' thaI gayo. huAna saMga nAma paNa huena saMga', "zuAna saMga', "zuAna leMga' ema judI judI rIte uccArAya che). huAna saMga bhArata AvIne saMskRta ane pAlI bhASAnA mahAna paMDita thayA hatA. haMsa pegoDA madhya cInamAM ziAna (liAna) nAmanA aitihAsika zaheramAM Avyo che. zaheramAM dAkhala thaIe te pahelAM dUrathI sAta mALa UMco A paMgoDA tarata najare paDe evo che. ame ziAna pahoMcyA tyAre amAruM svAgata karavA AvelI cInI gAiDa yuvatIe jaNAvyuM ke amArI sUcanAnusAra haMsa paMgoDAnI mulAkAta paNa goThavAI che. cInI yuvatInuM nAma hatuM "ju-nI', paraMtu gAIDanA vyavasAyamAM te navI navI hatI. potAnA viSayanI te jANakAra hatI, paNa aMgrejI bhASAnA tenA uccAro garabaDiyA hatA. eTale ja bicArIne dareka vAkya betraNa vAra bolavuM paDatuM, chatAM ame pUruM samajI gayA chIe evuM khAtarIpUrvaka tene lAgatuM nahi. alabatta, amane samajAvavA mATe enI dhIraja khUTatI nahi. te saraLa ane vivekI hatI. hoTelamAM pahoMcI svastha thaI ame samaya thatAM te mATenI pravAsI basamAM joDAI gayA. have ju-nInI pharaja pUrI thaI. bIjI gAiDanA havAle amane karavAmAM AvyA. basamAM dAkhala thatAM ja koIka gujarAtImAM bolyuM, "ahIM Avo, jagyA che." cInanA AvA madhya bhAgamAM koIkano gujarAtImAM avAja sAMbhaLavA maLe to keTaluM game ! paNa pravAsIo gujarAtI jevA lAgatA nahotA. emaNe ja khulAso karyo, 'ame kAThiyAvADanA khojA chIe. AphrikA choDIne ghaNAM varSothI laMDanamAM rahIe chIe. amArA vaDIlono Agraha che ke badhAe gharamAM gujarAtImAM ja bolavuM. ame patipatnI laMDanathI cIna pharavA AvyAM chIe.'
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________________ pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 ajANyA pradezanA pravAsamAM koIka ajANyAnI sAthe dostI thAya to kevI sarasa hUMpha anubhavAya che ! judI judI hoTelomAMthI mahemAnone letI letI basa chevaTe haMsa paigoDA pAse AvI pahoMcI. have paMgoDAnA gAiDa cInI yuvakanI pharaja cAlu thaI. teNe kahyuM, amAruM ziAna zahera cInanuM eka prAcIna nagara che. bIjiMga pATanagara thayuM e pahelAM keTaloka vakhata ziAna cInanuM pATanagara hatuM. eTale ziAnanI pharate 600 varSa jUnI dasa kilomITara jeTalI lAMbI dIvAla che. bIjiMganI moTI dIvAla - The Great Wall pachI bIjA naMbare amArI A dIvAla gaNAya che. paMdaraso varSa pahelAM ahIM bauddha dharmano ghaNo pracAra hato. bhAratathI bauddha dharmaguruo jamInamArge ghaNuM kaSTa veThIne ahIM AvatA. A pradeza cAMga-ena tarIke oLakhAya che. ahIM TaeNga vaMzanA rAjAo rAjya karatA. rAjA li-jhIe I. sa. 148mAM jina-vyaMga-phaMga nAmanA A prakRtiramya vistAramAM potAnI mAtA rANI vena-denI yAdagIrImAM vizALa bauddha maMdira baMdhAvyuM hatuM. eTale maMdiranuM cInI bhASAmAM nAma paDyuM hatuM, "mAtRAziSa maMdira'. u0 ekara jeTalA vistAramAM tyAre maMdira ane judA judA vibhAgonAM makAnomAM badhuM maLIne 1,897 jeTalA nAnAmoTA oraDAo hatA. A maMdira eka tIrtha samAna banI gayuM hatuM. aneka loko ahIM yAtrAe AvatA. keTalAya dharmaguruo ahIM rahetA. tyAra pachInA kALamAM huAna saMganI bhalAmaNathI ahIM "haMsa pegoDA' bAMdhavAmAM Avyo hato. TaeNga vaMzanA zAsanakALa daramiyAna bhayaMkara yuddha thayuM hatuM. tyAre lAgelI AgamAM ahIMnuM bauddha maMdira baLI gayuM hatuM, paNa sadbhAgye pegoDA bacI gayo hato. pachI miMga vaMzanA rAjavIono zAsanakALa Avyo. e daramiyAna I. sa. 1458mAM navuM nAnuM bauddha maMdira ahIM bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM hatuM, je hAla sAme tamane jovA maLe che.' ame parisaramAM dAkhala thayA. enAM traNa pravezadvAra che. dAkhala thatAM ja be bAju be nAnA TAvara jevI racanA jovA maLI. emAM ekamAM ghaMTa che. e paMdara hajAra kilogrAmanA vajanavALo, dasa phUTa UMco che. eno raNakAra karNapriya che. jUnA vakhatamAM jyAre ghaDiyALa nahotAM tyAre nagarajanone uThADavA mATe, prArthanAno samaya jaNAvavA mATe, sAMje AratI TANe ema vividha samaye ghaMTa vagADAto je AkhA nagaramAM saMbhaLAto. bIjI bAjunA TAvaramAM sAta phUTanA vyAsavALuM moTuM nagAruM che. ghaMTa ane nagAruM haju paNa nizcita samaye vagADAya che. ghaMTa ane nagAruM nihALI ame maMdiramAM dAkhala thayA. emAM mukhya maMDapamAM vacce bhagavAna buddhanI traNa svarUpanI traNa mUrti che. AjubAju emanA ziSyonI mUrti che. eka bAju prArthanAkhaMDa che. A maMdiramAM bhakto AvIne prArthanA kare che, paraMtu
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________________ haMsa paigoDA mAovAdI krAnti pachI cInamAM bauddha dharmano prabhAva atyaMta ghaTI gayo che. eka sAdI vAta parathI paNa e samajI zakAze ke maMdiramAM have pagarakhAM paherIne jaI zakAya che ane bhagavAnanI mUrtine sparza karI zakAya che. gAiDe bhagavAna buddha mATe prayojelA 'mijAmuni' zabda mATe keTalAkane jijJAsA thaI. eNe samajAvyuM ke vastutaH cIna ane jApAnamAM bhagavAna buddha mATe "zAkyamuni' zabda vadhu prayojAya che ane enA uparathI apabhraSTa thayelo zabda che "sijAmuni' che. maMdiramAM darzana karIne ame enI pAchaLanA bhAgamAM AvelA huAna saMganA haMsa pegoDAmAM gayA. rojanA anubhavI gAiDe kahyuM, "ahIM huM tamane itihAsanI vAto karIza ane aitihAsika vastuo batAvIza. eTale itihAsamAM jeone rasa hoya teo rahe ane bIjA badhA maMdiranA parisaramAM laTAra mArI zake che, yAdagIrInI vastuo kharIdI zake che athavA basamAM jaIne besI zake che." amArAmAMthI aDadhAthI vadhu pravAsIo nIkaLI gayA. pachI gAiDe amane je vAto kahI temAMnI keTalIka to evI hatI ke je jiMdagImAM pahelI vAra sAMbhaLavA maLI hatI. huAna saMgano janma cInanA henAnA prAMtanA yAjjI nAmanA nagaramAM I. sa. 902mAM thayo hato. emanuM janmanAma veI hatuM ane kuTuMbanI aTaka hatI cena. peDhIothI emanuM kuTuMba vidyAbhyAsa mATe paMkAyeluM hatuM eTale tejasvI bALaka veIne judI judI vidyAomAM rasa paDe e svAbhAvika hatuM. tera varSanI vaye teo potAnuM vatana choDIne luo yAMga nAmanA bauddha maThamAM vidyAbhyAsa mATe joDAyA hatA. evAmAM rAjadvArI laDAI phATI nIkaLI. e vakhate potAno jAna bacAvavA veI potAnA moTA bhAI sAthe tyAMthI bhAgI nIkaLyA ane cAMga-enanA A rAjyamAM AvI pahoMcyA. tyAM zu-ca-Ana prAMtanA ceMgadu nagaramAM bauddhamaThamAM joDAI gayA. jema jema vidyAbhyAsa vadhato gayo tema tema bAla brahmacArI veIno tyAga-vairAgyano bhAva vadhato gayo ane emane dIkSA laI bauddha bhikhkhuM thavAnA koDa jAgyA. dharmaguruoe paNa e mATe protsAhana ApyuM. ema karatAM veIe ekavIsa varSanI vaye dharmaguru pAse dIkSA lIdhI ane emanuM nAma rAkhavAmAM AvyuM huAna saMga. pAMca varSamAM emaNe cInI bhASAmAM lakhAyelA bauddha dharmagraMthono UMDo abhyAsa karI lIdho hato. tyAra pachI teo cAMga-cenanA maThamAM AvyA. dharmagraMthono abhyAsa karatI vakhate temanA manamAM keTalAka saMzayo uddabhavyA hatA, paraMtu temanA mananuM samAdhAna koI na karI zakyuM. ceMgadumAM ke cAMga-enamAM koI evA jANakAra dharmaguru nahotA. badhAno evo mata paDato ke e mATe to bhArata jaI tyAMnA mULa dharmagraMthono abhyAsa karavo joIe.
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________________ pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 paNa bhArata javuM kaMI saheluM nahotuM. tyAM pahoMcatAM koIne be varSa lAge ane koIne pAMca varSa paNa lAge, jo jIvatA rahe to. tyAre bhArata ane cIna vacce jaLavyavahAra cAlu thayo nahoto. jamIna mArge pagapALA ke ghoDA para javAnuM rahetuM. rastAmAM jaMgalo Ave, himAcchAdita pahADo Ave, bhayaMkara khINo Ave, sUko raNapradeza Ave, nadInALAM oLaMgavAnAM, vAvAjhoDAM thAya, bhUlA paDI javAya. jIvatA pahoMcAya to pahoMcAya. paNa huAna saMga yuvAna hatA, khaDatala hatA, taravarATavALA hatA, mahattvAkAMkSI hatA, svapnasevI hatA. teo bhikhkha hatA. ekalA hatA eTale AgaLapAchaLanI koI ciMtA nahotI. jANe koI agamya nAda emane bolAvI rahyo hato. tyAre 28 varSanI emanI uMmara hatI. emaNe gaNatarI karI joI. pAMca varSa bhArata pahoMcatAM, pAMcadasa varSa bhAratamAM abhyAsa karavA mATenAM ane pAMca varSa pAchA pharavAnAM. pacAsanI uMmara pahelAM pAchA cIna AvI zakAya. paNa jo jaI zakAya ane kArya pAra paDe to aneka zaMkAonuM nivAraNa thAya; aneka lokone dharmalAbha thAya. chevaTe mana makkama karI, potAnA be sAthIdAro sAthe teo nIkaLI paDyA. teo cInanA TakalA makAna nAmanA raNanI uttare thaIne turaphAna, kArAzara, kucA, tAzkeda, samarakaMda, bekTriyA, hiMdukuza parvata, kapizA, gaMdhAra thaIne kAzmIramAM AvyA. tyAMthI haradvAra bAju AvI, gaMgA nadImAM hoDImAM besI mathurA AvyA ane tyAMthI buddha gayA pahoMcyA. bhAratamAM bhagavAna buddhanI jJAnabhUmi sudhI pahoMcavAnuM emanuM svapna pAra paDyuM. pUrAM pAMca varSa lAgyAM. ghaNAM kaSTo rojanA pAdavihAramAM ke ghoDesavArImAM paDyAM. paNa te vasUla thayAM. have dhyeya hatuM dharmagraMthono abhyAsa karavAnuM. te mATe teo bihAramAM nAlaMdA gayA. bhikhu huAna saMganI mukhamudrA saune gamI jAya evI hatI. emanI buddhimattA bIjAne prabhAvita kare tevI hatI. vidyAbhyAsa mATe I. sa. 933mAM teo nAlaMdA vidyApIThamAM pahoMcyA. vidyArthI tarIke teo tarata svIkArAI gayA. teo moTI umaranA vidyArthI tarIke joDAyA hatA, paNa jotajotAmAM to teo ghaNA badhA karatAM AgaLa nIkaLI gayA. teo saMskRta ane pAlI bhASAmAM bolatAlakhatA prakAMDa paMDita banI gayA. dharmagraMthonA adhyayanathI ane potAnA vidyAguruo sAthenI carcAvicAraNAthI emanI badhI zaMkAo nirmaLa thaI. pote bauddha bhikhkhanA vezamAM hatA ane vipazyanA vagere vividha sAdhanApaddhatiomAM pAraMgata banI gayA hatA. pachI to emanA hAtha nIce aneka bhAratIya vidyArthIo abhyAsa karavA lAgyA. emanI kIrti comera evI prasarI ke aneka loko emane maLavA ane emanAM darzana karavA AvavA lAgyA. keTalAMya rAjyoe potAne tyAM padhAravA mATe emane nimaMtraNo mokalyAM.
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________________ 83 haMsa paigoDA dasa varSanA abhyAsane aMte huAna saMge cIna pAchA pharavAno nirNaya karyo. te samaye bhAratanA ghaNA bhAga upara rAjya dharAvanAra samrATa harSavardhane huAna saMgane potAnA darabAramAM padhAravA nimaMtraNa ApyuM. huAna saMga tyAM gayA tyAre bahu ThAThamAThathI emanuM svAgata karavAmAM AvyuM. samrATe emane cIna pAchA na jatAM potAnA rAjyamAM je koI moTo hoddo joIe te laIne bhAratamAM ja rokAI javA mATe Agraha bharI vinaMtI karI, paraMtu huAna saMge eno premapUrvaka asvIkAra karyo, kAraNa ke emane cIna pAchA pharI potAne jeTaluM jJAna maLyuM ane dhyAnanI paddhatio prApta thaI te potAnA bAMdhavone ApavAnI tAlAvelI hatI. emano nirNaya pAko che ema nakkI thatAM samrATa harSavardhane harSollAsapUrvaka pharamAna kADhayAM ke huAna saMga jyAM jyAMthI pasAra thAya tyAM tyAM temanuM bhavya svAgata thAya ane adhikArIo dvArA temane pUrI sagavaDa ApavAmAM Ave. cIna pAchA javAnuM nakkI thatAM huAna saMge e mATe taiyArI karI. sAthe zuM zuM laI javuM ? pote je graMthono abhyAsa karyo te saMskRta ane pAlI bhASAnA mULa graMtho cInamAM na hoya. eTale e graMthonI tADapatra para lakhAyelI hastaprato laI javI hatI. emaNe 657 hastaprato taiyAra karAvI ane e lAkaDAnI pa20 peTIomAM mUkavAmAM AvI ke jethI te sAcavIne cIna laI jaI zakAya. huAna saMganI hiMmata, dhagaza ane dharmaprIti gajabanI hatI. pa20 peTIo ghoDA, khaccara, gadheDA ke baLadagADImAM eka gAmathI bIje gAma laI javAmAM keTalI mahenata paDe ! rojeroja baporano visAmo ane rAtrimukAma karavA paDe. peTIo utAravI, gaNavI, pharI caDAvavI, e mATe majUro joIe, rakSakonI jarUra paDe, vaLI majUro ane rakSako amuka aMtare, rAjyanI sImA AvatAM badalAtA jatA hoya - A badhAmAM keTalo badho parizrama paDe ? vaLI pravAsa paNa ochAmAM ocho be varSano hato. jANe moTo saMgha na nIkaLyo hoya ! emAM vaLI huAna saMgane thayuM ke jiMdagImAM bIjI vAra bhArata AvavAnuM banaze nahi. mATe samagra bhArata joIne javuM. e mATe nimaMtraNo paNa maLyAM hatAM. emaNe rasto evI rIte lIdho ke badhuM jovAI jAya. emaNe baMgALa, bihAra, orisA, AMdhra pradeza, karNATaka, mahArASTra, gujarAta, saurASTra, kaccha, siMdha, paMjAba, balUcistAna, aphaghAnistAna thaIne pAchA pharavAno kAryakrama ghaDI kADhyo. I. sa. 143mAM emaNe zubha divase prayANa karyuM. emanI vidAyanA avasare nAlaMdAmAM emanA dharmaguruo, sAthIdAro, vidyArthIonI AMkhamAMthI codhAra AMsu vahyAM. bhagavAna buddhanA avatAra jevA eka pavitra saMta mahAtmA jaI rahyA hatA ! huAna saMga cInathI nIkaLI cIna pAchA pharyA tyAM sudhImAM pacIsa hajAra mAIlano, ghaNuMkharuM pagapALA pravAsa emaNe karyo. keTalIya vAra bhUlA paDyA, keTalIya vAra mAMdA paDyA, paNa thAkyA nahi. e jamAnAmAM nAnAMmoTAM rAjyo hatAM. teo
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________________ 4 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 110 rAjyomAMthI pasAra thayA. pote jyAM jyAM gayA ane je je anubhavo thayA tenI tArIkhavAra, vigatavAra noMdho teo lakhatA jatA hatA. AthI emaNe lakhelI noMdho aitihAsika dastAveja jevI banI gaI. emAM eTalI badhI rasika vAto Ave che ke pachIthI eka cInI lekhake enA uparathI eka sarasa navalakathA lakhI hatI ke je cInamAM eka ziSTamAnya graMtha gaNAya che. huAna saMga I. sa. 643mAM bhAratamAMthI nIkaLI I. sa. 945mAM cInamAM cAMga-enamAM AvI pahoMcyA. teo sattara varSa pachI cIna pAchA pharI rahyA hatA. eTale te samayanA samrATa gAo jhoMge emanuM bhavya svAgata karAvyuM ane tyAra pachI emanI rasika vAto sAMbhaLavA emane rAjamahelamAM bolAvyA. huAna saMganI avanavI adbhuta rasika vAto ane emanI kAbeliyatathI samrATa bahu vismayacakita thayA ane rAjyamAM koI paNa UMco vahIvaTI hoddo svIkAravA kahyuM, paNa huAna saMga to sAdhujIvana jIvavA ja icchatA hatA eTale koI hoddo svIkAryo nahi. e vakhate huAna saMge samrATane bhalAmaNa karI ke pote je tADapatrIya hastaprato bhAratathI lAvyA che te rAkhavAnI-jALavavAnI sarakhI vyavasthA rAjya taraphathI karI ApavAmAM Ave. e mATe huana saMganI do2vaNI heThaLa pAMca mALano raMgoDA, jyAM bauddha maMdira che tenI bAjumAM ja bAMdhavAno samrATe hukama karyo. ethI huAna saMgane atizaya harSa thayo. potAnuM svapna sAkAra karavAnI taka maLI. teo A sthaLane pavitra vidyAdhAma banAvavA icchatA hatA. teo eTalA badhA utsAhamAM AvI gayA hatA ke majUro sAthe teo paNa paththaro ghaDavAmAM, mATI khodavAmAM, dIvAlo-pagathiyAM caNavAmAM lAgI gayA hatA. eTale A peMgoDAnA bAMdhakAmamAM huAna saMgano majUra tarIkeno parizrama paNa rahelo che. peMgoDAnuM vidhisara udghATana thayA pachI emAM badhI hastaprato goThavavAmAM AvI, paraMtu pachI e nAno paDatAM enA upara bIjA be mALa vadhAravAmAM AvyA, eTale e sAta mALano thayo. vakhatovakhata jarUriyAta pramANe eno jIrNoddhAra thayo hato. gAiDe kahyuM, 'tame jyAM UbhA cho e peMgoDA teraso varSa prAcIna che. enA pAyAmAM huAna saMgano parasevo paDelo che. ahIM besIne emaNe bhAratathI lAvelA graMthonuM cInI bhASAmAM bhASAntara karyuM. maMdiranA A vistAramAM emane mATe nivAsasthAna bAMdhI ApavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. A peMgoDAmAM jIvananA aMta sudhI emaNe kAma karyuM. keTalA badhA bauddha dharmaguruone emaNe mArgadarzana ApyuM hatuM ! chellAM dasa varSa to A maThanA adhipati tarIke emanI nimaNUka thaI hatI.' A peMgoDAmAM UbhA rahIne enI havAmAM zvAsa letAM ame viziSTa anubhava karyo. ame manomana huAna saMganA tejasvI puNyAtmAne vaMdana karyAM.
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________________ haMsa peMgoDA 85 A peMgoDAnuM 'haMsa peMgoDA' evuM nAma kevI rIte paDyuM evA praznano khulAso karatAM gAiDe kahyuM, 'tame bahAra jaIne barAbara dhyAnathI jozo to enA bhoMyataLiyAno bAhyAkAra haMsa jevo lAgaze. huAna saMganI sUcanA pramANe evo AkAra karavAmAM Avyo hato. emane haMsa atyaMta priya hato. vaLI evI mAnyatA che ke TeMga vaMzanA rAjAo ane prajA upara bhUtakALamAM jyAre Apatti AvI paDI hatI tyAre zAkyamunie haMsanuM rUpa dhAraNa karIne daivI sahAya karI hatI. ane lokone bacAvI lIdhA hatA. vaLI evI daMtakathA che ke eka vakhata huAna saMga bhAratanA pravAsa daramiyAna bhUlA paDyA ane khUba tarasyA thayA hatA tyAre eka haMsa emane pANI ta2pha laI gayo hato. vastuta: bodhisattve ja haMsanuM rUpa dhAraNa karyuM hatuM. vaLI bIjI eka daMtakathA evI che ke ahIM maThamAM badhA bhikhkhuo zAkAhArI hatA. paraMtu eka divasa bodhisattva badhAne bhikSAtra pIrasyuM. te vakhate eka bhikSue kahyuM, 'mane Aje mAMsAhArI icchA thaI che.' bodhisattva enI sAme karuNAsabhara najare joI rahyA. te vakhate AkAzamAMthI eka pakSI dhaDa daIne tyAM paDyuM ane mRtyu pAmyuM. e haMsa hato. e joI bhikSu stabdha thaI gayo. eNe mAMsAhAranI icchA choDI dIdhI, paraMtu haMse A sthaLe potAnA prANano bhoga Apyo hato eTale enI yAdagIrImAM A peMgoDAne haMsanuM nAma ApavAmAM AvyuM. tyAra pachI gAiDe amane be bAju 2AkhavAmAM AvelA be kalAtmaka staMbha batAvyA. I. sa. 653mAM, huAna saMganI hayAtImAM, rAjA li-jhIe e cInI bhASAmAM kotarAvIne rAkhyA che. huAna saMge paeNgoDA mATe ane bauddha dharmagraMthonA anuvAda mATe je kArya karyuM tenI bhAre prazaMsA emAM karavAmAM AvI che. 62 varSanI vaye huAna saMganuM A maThamAM avasAna thayuM. eka mahAna tejasvI tAralo kharI paDyo. samrATa li-jhIe rAjyamAM traNa divasano zoka jAhera karyo ane nagara bahAranA parvata paranA udyAnamAM daphanavidhi thaI tyAre pote jAte hAjara rahyA hatA. pachI tyAM ja 'tripiTaka' nAmano peMgoDA baMdhAvI emAM be moTI peTImAM huAna saMganAM asthi rAkhavAmAM AvyAM. samrATa li-jhInA avasAna pachI huAna saMganA ziSya kuI jI A avazeSone jhoMga nAna nAmanA parvata 52 laI gayA ane tyAM peMgoDA bAMdhavAmAM Avyo. tyAra pachI tyAMthI eka moTA dharmaguru agiyAramA saikAmAM avazeSone nAnajiMga zaheramAM laI gayA ane tyAM peMgoDA baMdhAvyo. keTalAMka varSo pachI nAnajiMgamAM bhayaMkara dharatIkaMpa thayo. paMgoDA jamInadosta thayo ane avazeSo jamInamAM kyAMka garaka thaI gayA. e vAtane saikAo vItI gayA. bIjA vizvayuddha daramiyAna 1942mAM jApAne cIna para AkramaNa karyuM ane keTalAka bhAga upara kabajo jamAvyo. A yuddha daramiyAna jApAnI sainiko nAnajiMgamAM eka ThekANe khAI khodatA
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________________ pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 hatA tyAre emAMthI be moTI peTI akabaMdha maLI AvI. lakhANa parathI khabara paDI ke emAM huAna saMganAM asthiavazeSa che. jApAnI senApatie e avazeSo jApAna mokalI ApyA. bIjA vizvayuddha pachI cInamAM sAmyavAdI krAnti thaI. cAMga kAI zeka bhAgyA ane pAsenA potAnA TApu phormosA(tAivAna)mAM pahoMcI gayA. cInanuM vibhAjana thayuM ane baMne svataMtra rASTro thayAM. daramiyAna jApAna pAsethI huAna saMganA avazeSo pAchA meLavavA ghaNo UhApoha thayo. tAivAnano pakSa lenAra amerikAnuM jApAna upara varcasva hatuM. avazeSo mATe cIna ane tAivAna ema baMneno dAvo hato. avazeSo sarakhe bhAge vaheMcAya e zarate jApAna te ApavA mATe taiyAra thayuM. jApAnanI zarata svIkAravA sivAya chUTako nahoto. hAthapaganAM ane bIjAM asthi to sarakhe bhAge vaheMcI zakAyAM. have mastakano bhAga-khoparIno prazna Ubho thayo. e mATe cIna ke tAivAna koIe namatuM ApyuM nahi. aMte khoparInA be sarakhA kaTakA karavAmAM Ave e zarata svIkArAI. chevaTe cIna ane tAivAnane aDadhI aDadhI khoparI maLI. vidhinI kevI vakratA ke je khoparI-mastake prema, vAtsalya, karuNA, baMdhutvAdinI bhAvanA vaDe prajAone eka karavAno prayAsa karyo enA potAnA ja be kaTakA thayA, karavA paDyA. cInamAM asthinI vAta ATalethI na aTakI. e asthi potAne tyAM rAkhavA mATe vividha sthaLonA dAvA thayA, jhaghaDA thayA. chevaTe cInanI sarakAra taraphathI, huAna saMge jyAM dIkSA lIdhI hatI te sthaLa, jyAM emane daphanAvavAmAM AvyA te sthaLa ane jyAM emanA ziSya-praziSyoe asthi sAcavyAM hatAM e sthaLa - ema traNa sthaLa vacce sarakhe bhAge asthi vaheMcI ApavAmAM AvyAM. bauddha dharmaguru cInI pravAsI huAna saMgane kyAreya evo vicAra sudhdhAM Avyo nahi hoya ke potAnA pratyenA pUjyabhAvane kAraNe ja potAnAM asthi mATe AvA jhaghaDA thaze ane potAnI khoparInA be kaTakA karavA paDaze. pacIsa hajAra mAIlano pagapALA pravAsa karanAra huAna saMganA dehamAM paribhramaNanuM tattva evuM hADa sudhI pahoMcI gayuM hatuM ke emanA svargavAsa pachI paNa emanAM hADakAMoe pravAsa cAlu rAkhyo hato. haMsa paigoDAnI amArI mulAkAta pUrI thaI. pAchA pharatAM eka bAju huAna saMganI bhavya pavitra jIvanayAtrA ane bIjI bAju emanAM asthi mATe klezamaya saMgharSa - enA vicAroe magajane gherI lIdhuM hatuM.
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________________ 14 paoNrTa elijhAbetha pArTa elijhAbetha AvyuM dakSiNa AphrikAnA dakSiNa cheDe, paNa eno sAMskRtika saMbaMdha bhArata ane briTana sAthe be saikAthI paNa jUno che. enA nAmakaraNamAM ADakatarI rIte bhArata nimitta banyuM hatuM evuM koIne kahIe to mAnyAmAM paNa na Ave. dakSiNa AphrikAnA pravAsamAM amAre javAnuM hatuM paoNrTa elijhAbethathI nyAsnA, jyaoNrja vagere sthaLe rokAIne kepaTAuna sudhI. Azare sAtaso kilomITarano rasto, jANe mahAsAgaranAM darzana karAvavA mATe ja kinAre kinAre banAvyo hoya ema lAge. basamAM beThAM beThAM satata mahAsAgara para najara rAkhatA rahIe to paNa khabara na paDe ke kyAre mahAsAgare potAnuM nAma badalI nAkhyuM che. jyAM eka mahAsAgara pUro thAya che ane kyAMthI bIjo cAlu thAya che te darzAvatI koI bhedarekhA jalarAzimAM nathI. porTa elijhAbetha AvyuM bhAratIya mahAsAgarane kinAre ane kepaTAuna zobhAve che eTalAnTika mahAsAgarane. kepaTAuna baMdara tarIke moTuM, eno kinAro raLiyAmaNo, enI bhaugolika racanA anokhI ane eno vikAsa paNa vahelo thayelo. porTa elijhAbetha lAge zAMta ane zaramALa. kepaTAuna nagarI pragabhA jevI, to paoNrTa elijhAbetha mugdhA jevI. paoNrTa elijhAbethanuM jUnuM nAma te "bAiyA da lAgo'. I. sa. 1576mAM paoNrTugIjha (porTugIjha) zodhatapharI menyuala da miskitAe e ApeluM. eNe ahIM mukAma karyo hato ane pAse AvelI bAkensa nadInA mukha AgaLa AvelA eka taLAva (lagUna-lAgo) parathI e nAma ApyuM hatuM. A maMdira vize maLatA jUnAmAM jUnA dastAvejI ullekha pramANe pAMcaso varSa pahelAM eziyAnI zodhasaphare nIkaLelA bArthalomeyu DAyase (divase) A baMdaramAM potAnAM vahANo lAMgaryAM hatAM. I. sa. 1497mAM suprasiddha porTugIjha zodhasapharI vAsko-da-gAmA A kinArethI pasAra thayo hato, paraMtu eNe ahIM mukAma karyo nahoto. ahIMnA TApuono eNe potAnA ahevAlamAM "pakSIonA TApu' tarIke ullekha karyo che. e vakhate A baMdarano upayoga vahANamAMthI vAsI pANI ThalavI daI tAjuM pANI bharavA mATe thato. te IsavI sananA aDhAramA saikAmAM A baMdare vahANonI avarajavara vadhI gaI.
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 88 ahIMnA Daca kheDUto vahANanA khalAsIone rAtrimukAma karavA samajAvatA, sAro AdarasatkAra karatA ane levaDadevaDa dvArA kamANI karatA. pachI to jema jema vikAsa thato gayo tema tema paoNrTugIjha, speniza, Daca, phrenca, briTiza vasAhatIo vacce ekabIjA upara sarasAI meLavavA tIvra spardhA thavA lAgI, saMgharSo paNa thayA. chevaTe aMgrejoe A pradezano kabajo meLavyo. ene surakSita rAkhavA mATe briTiza sainikoe I. sa. 1799mAM ahIM eka moTo killo bAMdhyo ane enuM nAma rAkhyuM 'phaoNrTa phreDarika'. tyAra pachI A pradezamAM iMglaeNnDanA aMgrejone vasavATa mATe uttejana apAvA lAgyuM. be dAyakAmAM to nAnAM nAnAM vahANomAM besIne iMglaeNnDathI badhA maLIne Azare cAra hajAra mANaso AvIne vasyA. teone rahevA ane khetI karavA mATe jamIna apAI. I. sa. 1820mAM A vasAhatane nAma ApavAmAM AvyuM 'paoNrTa elijhAbetha'. sAmAnya rIte briTiza saMsthAnamAM 'vikToriyA' ke 'elijhAbetha' nAma apAya to te iMglaeNnDanI mahArANInA nAma parathI ja hoya. paNa ahIM jANavA maLyuM ke mahArANInA nAma parathI nahi, paNa koIka briTiza mahilAnA nAma parathI A baMdaranuM nAma apAyuM che. e mahilAe ahIM AvIne evuM te zuM yAdagAra kArya karyuM haze ke enuM nAma baMdarane apAyuM ? jyAre jANavA maLyuM ke eNe to baMdaranI A dharatI para paga paNa nathI mUkyo tyAre to mane jijJAsA sahita Azcarya thayuM. tA. 6 jUna 1820nA roja savAre dasa vAge A briTiza saMsthAnanA gavarnara sara rUphena DaoNnikane samudrakinAre eka UMcI mokAnI vizALa jagyAmAM amaladAro, lazkarI aphasaro, sainiko, nAgariko ane sthAnika kALA lokonI vizALa medanI samakSa hAthamAM kodALI ane pAvaDo laI, zukanano eka khADo khodIne jAhera karyuM ke 'AjathI A vasAhata ane baMdara 'paoNrTa elijhAbetha' tarIke oLakhAze ane ahIM elijhAbethanuM smAraka karavAmAM Avaze.', ATaluM bolatAM bolatAM to gaLagaLA thayelA sara DaoNkinanI AMkhamAM AMsu UbharAyAM. prasaMga harSano hato, paNa AsuM harSanAM nahi, gherI zokasaMvedanAnAM hatAM. A elijhAbetha te sara DaoNnakinanAM svargastha patnI. teo avasAna pAmyAM bhAratamAM ane temanuM smAraka racAyuM dakSiNa AphrikAmAM, kAraNa ke sara DaoNnikananI bhAratathI badalI thaI ahIMnA gavarnara tarIke. tyAre emanI uMmara hatI batrIsa varSanI. trIsa varSanI uMmare teo vidhura thayA. emanAM patnI elijhAbethanI uMmara tyAre hatI. mAtra aThThAvIsa varSanI. IsavI sananA aDhAramA-ogaNIsamA saikAmAM hiMdustAna khAtenI briTiza IsTa inDiyA kaMpanInI sarakAramAM joDAvA mATe keTalAya sAhasika yuvAno AvatA.
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________________ 89 paoNrTa elijhAbetha potAnI kArakirdI banAvavAnI ane thoDAM varSamAM ghaNuM dhana kamAI levAnI A eka sArI taka hatI. tyAre hiMdustAna AvavAnuM saheluM nahotuM. iMglenDathI nIkaLIne saDhavALAM vahANo AphrikAnA kinAre kinAre thaIne doDha-be mahine hiMdustAna pahoMcatAM. vaLI teone mATe hiMdustAnano pradeza ajANyo, bhASA ajANI. Ama chatAM sAhasa karavA mATe eka mukhya pralobhana te pAMca-dasa varSa sArA pagAre nokarI karIne pachI AkhI jiMdagI penzana bhogavavA maLe te hatuM. UgatI yuvAnImAM rUphena DaoNnakina AvI nokarImAM joDAI gayA. potAnI premALa patnI elijhAbetha sAthe teo bhArata AvyA. uttara pradezamAM meraThamAM ucca kakSAnA amaladAra tarIke kAma karavAnI javAbadArI temane soMpavAmAM AvI. eka bAhoza, kAryadakSa amaladAra tarIke emanI prazaMsA thaI. keTalAka samaya pachI emanI patnIe dIkarAne janma Apyo. paraMtu temanuM sukhI dAmpatyajIvana acAnaka khaMDita thayuM. uttara pradezanA amuka vistAramAM tAvano rogacALo phATI nIkaLyo. tyAre AjanA jevI aksIra davA ke ijekzanonI zodha thaI nahotI. cepI tAvamAM ghaNA mANaso TapoTapa maravA lAgyA. elijhAbethane paNa tAva lAgu paDyo ane thoDA divasamAM ja, 6 jUna 1818nA roja temanuM avasAna thayuM. rUphenanA mAthe vajaghAta thayo. pachIthI to rUphenane hiMdustAnamAM rahevAmAM rasa rahyo nahi. paNa dIkaro haju phakta sAta mahinAno hato. eTalA nAnA bALakane laIne dariyAI saphara kheDavAmAM sAhasa hatuM. teo thobhI gayA. dIkaro be varSano thayo tyAre emaNe badalI mAgI. emanI nimaNUka dakSiNa AphrikAmAM kepa provinsanA gavarnara tarIke thaI. emane baDhatI ApavAmAM AvI. vaLI "sarano ilakAba paNa temane maLyo. I. sa. 1820mAM sara Donakine baMdarane nAma ApyuM ane te sthaLe pirAmiDanA AkAranuM smAraka banAvyuM je Aje paNa joI zakAya che. ame temanuM lakhANa vAMcyuM. A pirAmiDa para be bAju be takatI lagADavAmAM AvI che. ekamAM lakhyuM che : "To the memory of one of the most perfect human being who has given her name to the town below.' oleo dsdui qui cg : 'The husband whose heart is still wrung by undiminished grief.' A vAkyo parathI amane elijhAbetha ane rUphena DaoNnakina baMnenA snehojvala vyaktitvano khyAla Avyo. emanA madhura dAmpatyaprema mATe amane AdarabhAva thayo. jANe amArI UMDI saMvedanAno ja paDagho pADavA hoya tema te ja vakhate AkAzamAMthI jharamara varasAda paDavA lAgyo. ame bhIMjAI gayA. ghaDIkamAM taDako ane ghaDIkamAM varasAda evI ahIMnI caMcala AbohavAno paricaya thayo. elijhAbethanuM smAraka joyA pachI ame A baMdaranA bIjA vistAromAM pharavA
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________________ 9o pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 nIkaLyA. baso varSanA gALAmAM cAra hajAranI vastImAMthI dasa lAkhanI vastI sudhI pahoMcelA, krikeTa vagere ramatagamato mATe vikhyAta banelA A nagare potAnI saMsthAna-zAhI (Colonial) mudrA barAbara sAcavI rAkhI che. relave sTezana, posTa oNphisa, lAibrerI ane tenA pravezadvAra pAse rANI vikToriyAnuM pUtaLuM, ArTa gelerI, myujhiyama, kalaba, eDavarDa hoTela, operA hAusa, dIvAdAMDI, killo ane emAM AvelAM makAno - ane devaLo to kema bhulAya - A badhAMnA sthApatyamAM e yuganuM vAtAvaraNa anubhavAya che. bhale chevaTe rAjya aMgrejone ahIM sthapAyuM, paNa enI pUrve yuropanI judI judI prajAoe A nagarInA nirmANamAM je phALo Apyo te haju jaLavAI rahyo che. ogaNIsamI sadImAM loko keTalA badhA dhArmika hatA ane dhArmika custatA ane saMkucitatAvALA hatA e to tyAre pAMca-sAta hajAranI vastIvALA A baMdaramAM judA judA khristI saMpradAyanAM baMdhAyelAM moTAM moTAM devaLo parathI joI zakAya che. pAMca-cha dAyakAmAM ahIM romana ketholika, holI TriniTI, eNglikana, prembiTeriyana, meDisTa, kaoNMgregezanala, senTa oNgasTAina, senTa merI. ema keTalAM badhAM devaLo baMdhAyAM, jemAMnA keTalAMka have ghaNuMkharuM smAraka jevAM banI gayAM che. smArakanI vAta Ave eTale paoNrTa elijhAbethamAM asvasmAraka (Horse Monument) joyAnuM yAda Ave. ghoDAnuM A eka ane advitIya smAraka che. dakSiNa AphrikAmAM I. sa. 1890nI AsapAsa thayelA bhayaMkara yuddhamAM seMkaDo ghoDAo mAryA gayA hatA. aneka azvonI lAza najare nihALanAra hariyeTa mAyara nAmanI eka vRddha mahilAnuM hRdaya bahu dravI gayuM. ene thayuM ke sainikone to sau koI yAda karaze, paNa kharo bhoga ApanAra A mUgAM prANIne koNa yAda karaze ? eTale nagaranI vaccovaca ghoDAnuM smAraka banAvavA mATe eNe jhuMbeza upADI. enI bhAvanA sAcI hatI eTale pratisAda paNa sAro sAMpaDyo. TheraTherathI nANAM AvyAM ane sarasa smAraka thayuM. eNe nIce lakhAvyuM ke koI paNa dezanI mahAnatA nyAya ane karuNAnI enI bhAvanA upara nirbhara che." (kadAca A asvasmArakanA anukaraNarUpe ja haze, ke bIjA vizvayuddha daramiyAna kepaTAunamAM briTiza naukAdaLanA sainikone vahAla ane madada karanAra eka kUtarAnuM pUtaLuM che ane Aje paNa naukAdaLanA sainiko ane lazkarI salAmI Ape che.) paoNrTa elijhAbethamAM evuM ja bIjuM eka lAkSaNika pUtaLuM che presTara jonanuM. phlemiMga phuveramAM e ame joyuM. presTara jaoNna e yuropanI madhyakAlIna daMtakathAnuM kAlpanika pAtra che. te rAjarSi (Priest Monarch) che ke je AphrikA, arabastAna ane eziyAnA sAmrAjyanA samrATa che ane vaLI khristI dharmaguru paNa che. khristI dharmanA pracAranI mahattvAkAMkSAnuM e pratIka che. eziyAmAM TheTha cIna-jApAna sudhI
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________________ paoNrTa elijhAbetha 91 khristI dharmane laI janAra porTugIjha zodhasApharIo hatA. eTale presTara jananI bAjumAM porTugIjha zodha pharInuM pUtaLuM che. A baMdaramAM pahelo paga mUkanAra porTugIjho hatA. presTara jonanuM pUtaLuM duniyAmAM A eka ja che. cAraso varSa pahelAM ahIM ghaNAMbadhAM pakSIo hatAM eTale pakSIonA baMdara tarIke jANItA A zaheramAM Aje eTalAM pakSIo rahyAM nathI, to paNa "pahelI pakSI galI', "bIjI pakSI galI' ema galIonAM nAma Aje paNa jovA maLe che. vaLI eka mArkeTanuM nAma ja pIMchAM mArkeTa' (Feather Market) che ke jyAM eka jamAnAmAM zAhamRga ane bIjA pakSIonAM raMgaberaMgI pIMchAM vecAtAM maLatAM hatAM. Aje paNa keTalAMka pIMchAM maLe che, paNa pIMchAM karatAM bIjI cIjavastuo tyAM vadhAre maLe che. porTa elijhAbethamAM jovA jevuM to ghaNuMkharuM ame joyuM, paraMtu enA pravAsanuM smaraNa pahele divase ja banelI bIjI eka ghaTanAne kAraNe paNa mane rahyuM che. amArA grUpano utAro eka moTI AlIzAna hoTelamAM hato. AvI hoTelomAM bhAtabhAtanI lalacAvanArI sagavaDo hoya che. amArA eka mitrane TabamAM nAhavAnuM mana thayuM. pANI cAlu karIne, hAtha rAkhIne joI lIdhuM ke sAdhAraNa garama, navAya evuM pANI AvatuM hatuM. vaLI emane thayuM ke hoTele Bubble Bath - parapoTA-phINa thAya evA pravAhI sAbunI bATalI paNa rAkhI che, to pachI vAparavAnuM mana kema na thAya ? emaNe AkhI bATalI TabamAM reDI dIdhI. TabamAM pANI bharAI gayuM eTale nahAvA mATe emaNe paga mUkyo ane tarata cIsa pADI UThyA. pANI dhagadhagatuM, dAjhI javAya eTaluM badhuM garama hatuM. AvI hoTelomAM naLamAM raheluM sAdhAraNa garama ke ThaMDuM pANI thoDI vAra AvyA kare ane pachI gIjharanuM dhagadhagatuM pANI Ave. paga baLatAM ja mitre te bahAra laI levAno prayatna karyo, paNa tyAM to babala bAthe emane AkhA aMdara lapasAvyA. pharI nIkaLavAno prayAsa karyo to pharI lapasyA. chevaTe badhuM baLa ekaThuM karIne teo nIkaLyA tyAre bahu dAjhI gayA hatA. tarata dAktarane bolAvavAmAM AvyA. dAktare joIne kahyuM ke teo eTalA badhA dAjhI gayA che ke tAbaDatoba haoNspiTalamAM dAkhala karavA paDaze. eNbyulansamAM laI jaIne emane haoNspiTalamAM dAkhala karyA. mahino rahyA, paNa jIvathI bacI gayA. dakSiNa AphrikAno emano pravAsa haoNspiTalamAM ja pUro thayo. satata ciMtA ane kharcano khADo e to naphAmAM ja. hoTelonI keTalIka pralobhanakArI sagavaDo paNa bodhapATha zikhavADanArI nIvaDe che. paoNrTa elijhAbethano amAro pravAsa pUro thayo. bIje divase savAre sAmAna sAthe ame basamAM goThavAyA, nyAsnA javA mATe. mArA cittamAM A baMdarano itihAsa taravaravA lAgyo. emAM paNa sara rUphena DaoNnakinano patnI prema hRdayane sparzI gayo. emanI saMvedanA ane emanA udgAro parathI paNa elijhAbetha keTalI badhI
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________________ 92 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 premALa patnI haze teno khyAla Avato hato. huM A vicAradhArAmAM magna hato tyAM eka mitra chApuM laI AvyA ane mArA hAthamAM mUkyuM. pahele pAne ja moTuM zIrSaka hatuM. emAM sthAnika lokonAM kALAM kAmanA samAcAra hatA. AgalI rAte baLAtkAranI cha ghaTanA polIsamAM noMdhAI hatI. emAMnI be to sagIra bALAo para thayelA baLAtkAranI hatI. AphrikAnAM ghaNAM zaheromAM garIbI, bekArI vagerene lIdhe gunAkhorInuM pramANa ghaNuM che. vaLI saMskAritAnuM dhoraNa paNa nIcuM che. eTale ja moTAM zaheromAM aMdhAruM thatAM pahelAM mANaso vizeSata: strIo gharamAM bharAI jAya che. ekaladokala puruSa hoya to paisA lUMTAI jAya ane strI hoya to lAja lUMTAI jAya. baLAtkAranI ghaTanAo vize vAMcIne mana udvigna thayuM. manamAM sarakhAmaNI thavA lAgI ke kyAM Donakinano divya prema ane kyAM vartamAnamAM ahIM kALA yuvakonI kAmaviDaMbanA ! keTalAyanI jiMdagI barabAda karI nAkhanArI varavI kAmavAsanA ! saMsAra kevo sama-viSama vRtti-pravRttithI bharelo che !
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________________ 15 khAma AphrikAmAM bhaugolika dRSTie moTAmAM moTA rASTra sudAnanA pATanagara khArdrama(Khartoom)nuM nAma to bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate 1944-45mAM sAMbhaLyuM hatuM, paraMtu te kAyamane mATe yAda rahI gayuM che bIjI eka karuNa ghaTanAnI mAhitIne kAraNe. tyAre amAre kaoNlejamAM AMgla lekhaka liTana sTrecInuM eka pustaka pAThyapustaka tarIke cAlatuM hatuM. emAM janarala cArlsa gorDananuM caritra ApavAmAM AvyuM che. muMbaInI jheviyarsa kaoNlejamAM tyAre amArA aMgrejI viSayanA prAdhyApaka pro. pinTo janarala gorDananuM jIvanacaritra rasapUrvaka samajAvatA. emAM chelle janarala gorDananA jIvananA karuNa aMtano citAra ApavAmAM Avyo che. khAdbhUmanA pAdaramAM janarala gorDananuM zaba eka jhADanI DALa para keTalAka divasa sudhI laTakatuM rahyuM hatuM. e ghaTanAnuM tAdeza citra tyArathI smRtipaTa para aMkita thaI gayuM hatuM. AjhAdI pahelAMnA e amArA divasomAM gorA briTiza lokonuM prabhutva hatuM. gorA lokoe, khAsa karIne amerikAmAM keTalAye kALA gulAmone laTakAvIne bALI nAkhyA (Lynch) che, paraMtu kALA lokoe eka gorA janaralane A rIte jhADa para laTakAvyA hoya evI bIjI koI ghaTanA banI hoya evuM sAMbhaLyuM nathI. eTale ja khATrUmanuM nAma yAda rahI gayuM che. bIjA vizvayuddha pahelAM bhAratanI jema ijipta upara briTananuM prabhutva hatuM. bhAratanI jema ijiptamAM lazkarI vaDA adhikArIo aMgrejo rahetA. ogaNIsamI sadInA AraMbhamAM jana2la cArlsa gorDana ijipziyana sainyamAM sarasenAdhipati hatA. te vakhate ijipte sudAna para AkramaNa karI vijaya meLavyo hato. tyAra pachI janarala gorDananI sudAnanA gavarnara janarala tarIke nimaNUka thaI hatI. sudAna upara rAjadvArI sattA jamAvyA pachI aMgrejoe jema bIjA pradezomAM karyuM tema sudAnamAM paNa khristI dharmano pracAra karyo ane aneka musalamAnane vaTalAvIne khristI banAvyA. AthI ja sudAnamAM khristI-virodhI vaMToLa Ubho thayo. ogaNIsamI sadInA uttarArdhamAM mAhadI nAmanA eka muslima dharmanetAe khristIo sAme moTI jehAda upADI ane teoe janarala gorDananI hatyA karI. emanA zabane lokone batAvavA mATe khArTUmamAM laTakAvavAmAM AvyuM hatuM. khristI ane musalamAna vacceno saMgharSa sudAnamAM Aja divasa sudhI cAlyA karyo
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________________ 94 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 che. mAladIe sudAnamAM sattA meLavI tyAra pachI ghaNA khristIone pAchA musalamAna banAvavAmAM AvyA. eTale sudAnanA uttara bhAgamAM hAla musalamAnonI bahumatI che ane dakSiNa sudAnamAM khristIonI. I. sa. 1898mAM aMgrejoe ijiptanI madadathI pharI sudAna upara kabajo meLavyo ane 1953 sudhI rAjya karyuM. 1956mAM svataMtra thayelA sudAnamAM vAraMvAra sattApalaTo thayo. daramiyAna musalamAno tathA khristIo vacce AMtaravigraha thayo ane hajAro mANaso mAryA gayA ane hajAro apaMga thayA. 1970 pachI kaMIka sthira sarakAra kAma karavA lAgI che, paraMtu prajAnI Arthika avadazA evI ja rahI che. uttara AphrikAmAM kero pachI bIjA naMbaranuM moTuM zahera te khATuMma, paNa khATma eTale jANe moTuM gAmaDuM. kero jevI ronaka tyAM jovA na maLe. garIbI ane bekArInuM pramANa tyAM ghaNuM che. jyAM juo tyAM mANaso navarA beThelA hoya. sarakArI kacerIomAM kAmakAja kIDIvege cAle ane rAha jotA besI rahevuM paDe. AthI ja koIka amerikana pravAsIe ciDAIne kahyuM hatuM ke pArTIma eTale "duniyAno moTAmAM moTo veiTiMga rUma'. (joke khATuMmane zaramAve evAM bIjAM zahero paNa che.). sudAnamAM videzanA nAgarikonA praveza upara hAla bahu niyaMtraNa che. vijhA jaladI maLe nahi. maLyA pachI paNa takalIpha ghaNI. alabatta, sthAnika oLakhANathI kAma jaladI thAya. tyAM doDhaso varSathI gujarAtIono vasavATa che ane sarakArI taMtramAM buniyA' (inDiyana mATe "vANiyA' uparathI)ne mATe bhAre mAna che. sudAnamAM page apaMga garIba mANaso ghaNA che. teone maphata "jayapura phUTa besADI ApavAnI pravRtti khATuMmanI roTarI klaba dvArA, muMbaInI roTarI klaba ane helpa haeNnDikepa' vagere saMsthAnA sahakArathI calAvavAmAM Ave che. e najare nihALavA ane vizeSa pravRttio aMge vicAraNA karavA mATe helpa henDikepa'nA TrasTIo zrI mahendrabhAI mahetA ane zrI manubhAI saMgharAja kA khAdgama jatA hatA tyAre emanI sAthe joDAvAno avasara mane paNa sAMpaDyo hato. amArI sAthe "jayapura phUTa'nA eka Tekaniziyana zrI nAthusiMga paNa hatA, jeo tyAM cAra-cha mahinA rokAIne sthAnika kAryakartAone Tekanikala tAlIma ApavAnA hatA. khATuMmamAM e mATe eka varkazopanI sthApanA karavAmAM AvelI che. nAirobIthI vimAnamAM ame khAdgama pahoMcyA. amArA vijhAnI vyavasthA khArTUmamAM AvelI amerikana oila kaMpanImAM kAma karatI eka hoziyAra amerikana mahilAe karI ApI hatI. amArA zrI mahendrabhAInI te paricita, roTeriyana ane jayapura phUTanI pravRtti sAthe saMkaLAyelI che. amAro utAro khATuMmanI hoTela hilTanamAM hato. hoTela sarasa hatI, paNa anyatra jovA maLe tevI A hilTana
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________________ khATuMma 95 nahotI. pote thoDI bhUkhe maratI hoya evuM lAge. jyAM pravAsIo ja bahu AvatA na hoya, AvavA devAmAM na AvatA hoya tyAM hoTela bicArI zuM kare ? enI cAlamAM karakasara jaNAtI hatI. hoTelamAM pahoMcatAM ja sthAnika roTeriyana mitro ane gujarAtI samAjanA keTalAka AgevAno maLavA AvI gayA. teonI sAthe judA judA kAryakramonI vicAraNA thaI. bIje divase savAre ame khATuMmamAM pharavA nIkaLyA. naisargika dRSTie khATuMma eka ramaNIya sthaLa che. saikAo pUrve rakhaDu jAtioe vasavATa mATe A sthaLanI bahu aucityapUrvaka pasaMdagI karI hatI. ahIM ithiyopiyAmAMthI nIkaLIne AvatI hyubhUrI nAIla ane vikToriyA sarovaramAMthI nIkaLIne AvatI vhAiTa-zveta nAIlano saMgama che. ahIMthI te baMne eka thaIne ijiptamAM vahe che. duniyAmAM nAIla eka evI moTI lAMbI nadI che ke je pUrva-pazcimane badale dakSiNamAMthI uttara tarapha vahe che. nAIla nadInA saMgamane kAraNe raNa jevA pradezamAM havAmAnamAM pharaka paDyo che ane AsapAsanI jamIna khetIne lAyaka phaLadrupa banI che. nadInA vaheNanA AkAra uparathI te kALanA AdivAsI lokoe ene nAma ApyuM "khATma." khAma eTale hAthInI sUMDha. nadIno vaLAMka ahIM hAthInI sUMDha jevo che. AphrikAnA AdivAsIone nAma ApavA mATe hAthI ja yAda Ave ne ! ahIM nAIlanI baMne bAju zahera vasyuM che. bIjI bAjunA zaherane omaduramAna kahe che. vacce nadI upara pula che. Ama to eka ja moTuM zahera gaNAya, paNa khATuMma karatAM omaduramAna vadhu sughaDa ane samRddha dekhAya che. vastuta: beThA ghATanAM, mALa vagaranAM aDoaDa jUnAM gharo ane dhULiyA rastA badhe ja che. Azare cha lAkhanI vastIvALA A zaherano jeTalo thavo joIe teTalo vikAsa thayo nathI. jUnI peDhInA mANaso kahe che ke aMgrejonA zAsanakALa daramiyAna je caLakATa khATuMmamAM hato te hAla nathI rahyo. khATmamAM pacaraMgI prajA che. mukhyatve sudAnI loko che. sADAcha phUTa UMcA, zarIre bharAvadAra, goLa moDhuM, moTuM kapALa, jADA hoTha, mAthe gUMcaDAvALA kALA vALa, cAmaDI habasI karatAM saheja ochI kALI, lAMbI bAMyano ane eDI sudhIno sapheda jhabhbho, khabhe khesa ane mAthe sapheda pAghaDI (athavA TopI) vagere sudAnIne oLakhavAnAM lakSaNo che. khATuMmamAM Arabo che, habasIo che ane Araba-habasInA mizraNavALI prajA te nubiyano che. ahIM yuropiyano che, amerikano che, bhAratIya loko che ane cInAo paNa che. jUnA vakhatamAM khATmamAM sonuM, hAthIdAMta ane rU-kapAsano mukhya vepAra hato. saikA pahelAM gulAmonuM moTuM bajAra ahIM bharAtuM. have Adhunika vyavasAyo vadhyA che.
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________________ pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 jamInamAMthI tela nIkaLyuM che. khANamAMthI kAcA hIrA nIkaLyA che. sonAnI khANomAM moTA pAye khodakAma cAlu thayuM che. khANavidyAmAM hoziyAra evA cInAone ahIM vasAvyA che. sAta lAkha jeTalA cInAo traNa-cAra dAyakAthI sudAnamAM AvIne vasyA che. cInI-sudAnInI saMmizra prajA paNa cAlu thaI gaI che. AphrikAnAM bIjAM zaheronI jema khATuMmamAM paNa taDako ghaNo paDe. ughADA mAthe lAMbuM calAya nahi, mAthuM bhamI jAya. loko moTI pAghaDI kema pahere che te samajAvavuM na paDe. taDakAne lIdhe ja khATuMmamAM Thera Thera moTA ghaTAdAra lImaDA ane bIjAM vRkSo jovA maLe che. rAhadArIo, navarA mANaso chAMyaDo zodhatA phare. baporanA vakhate koI vRkSa nIce chAMyaDAmAM koI UbhuM na hoya ema bane nahi. keTalAMya vRkSo nIce khurazI, khATalo, pANInuM mATaluM ke koThI hoya. kyAMka sAdhAraNa sthitinI mahilAo sagaDI rAkhI cA banAve ane vece. sudAnI mahilAo sADI jevuM eka ja vastra AkhA zarIre vIMTALe, paNa paganI pAnI sudhI nahi, ghUMTaNa DhaMkAya e rIte pahere. mAthe oDhavAnuM pharajiyAta che. polakuM ghaNuMkharuM AkhI bAMyanuM pahere. sapheda ane kALo e be raMganAM vastro vadhu pracalita che. khATuMma ane omaduramAnamAM jovA jevAM sthaLomAM naeNzanala myujhiyama, mAhidInI kabara, khalIphAnuM myujhiyama, pramukhano mahela, pelesa myujhiyama vagere gaNAvI zakAya. itihAsa ane sAMskRtika avazeSomAM jemane rasa hoya temane vadhAre game, kAraNa ke phrAnsanA sahakArathI thayelA khodakAmamAM aDhI hajAra varSa pahelAMnA prAcIna avazeSo maLyA che. ame thoDuMka joyuM, thoDuMka jatuM karyuM. hoTela hilTanamAM baporanA bhojana vakhate sthAnika roTarI klabanA sabhyone ane gujarAtI samAjanA keTalAka AgevAnone maLavAnuM thayuM. tyAra pachI sudAnanA ArogyapradhAna sAthe amArI mulAkAta goThavAI hatI. jayapura phUTa aMge emane mAhitI apAI. potAnA dezane vinAmUlya jayapura phUTa ane te banAvavA mATenI sAmagrI maLatI hoya to kema na game ? potAnA Arogya khAtA taraphathI badho ja sahakAra ApavAnI temaNe khAtarI ApI. tyAra pachI ame jayapUra phUTanA varkazopanI mulAkAta lIdhI. tyAM eka athavA baMne page apaMga banelAM lAcAra strIpuruSonA dayAmaNA caherA joI karuNA Upaje. jayapura phUTathI teonI jiMdagI sudharI jAya, lAcArI ochI thAya, haravApharavAnI zakyatA vadhe. kRtrima paga AzIrvAdarUpa nIvaDe. thoDAM varSomAM traNeka hajAra karatAM vadhu strIpuruSone kRtrima paga besADI ApavAmAM AvyA che. zrI nAthusiMge agAu ahIM eka varSa rahIne sthAnika sudAnI karmacArIone kRtrima paga banAvavAnI tAlIma ApI hatI. A vakhate paNa teo bIjA vadhu mANasone tAlIma ApavAnA che.
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________________ khArTama - sAMja paDavA AvI hatI. sUrye potAnI prakharatA ghaTADI ane vAyune zItalatA tathA prasannatA sAthe mokalI Apyo. ame nAIlanA kinAre laTAra mAravAno AnaMda mANyo ane hoTela para pahoMcyA. have amAre khATuMmanA eka jANItA vaDIla zreSThI zrI caMdubhAI pItAMbarane maLavAnuM hatuM. khATmamAM ajANyA mANaso potAnI meLe jaldI pahoMcI na zake. koI sAthe joIe. bhASAno prazna, vaLI rastAnAM nAma ke makAnonA naMbara jevuM khAsa jaNAyuM nahi. haze to te sarakArI daphataramAM. masjida, moTAM makAna, baeNnka, haoNspiTala, moTI dukAna vagere "mazahUra nizAnIthI rastA oLakhAya. rastA khAssA pahoLA ane TrAphika ocho. kyAMka rastA para nAnA maMDapa hoya. sthAnika mitre amane kahyuM ke khATmamAM haoNla ochA, ane potAno prasaMga potAnA AMgaNAmAM ja maMDapa bAMdhIne goThavAya che. bhAratanAM gAmaDAMonA jevo rivAja ahIM paNa che. varasAdanI anizcitatA na hoya tyAM maMDaponI majhA anokhI che. mitre samajAvyuM ke je maMDapamAM badhI ja TyUbalAiTa sapheda hoya tyAM besaNuM-sAdaDI che ema samajavuM. jyAM lagnAdi utsava ke mahephila hoya tyAM TyUbalAiTa raMgaberaMgI hoya (TyUbalAiTanI zodha karanArane AvA upayoganI kalpanA nahi hoya.) | khATmamAM Azare doDhaso gujarAtI kuTuMbo vase che, paraMtu gujarAtIono judo vistAra hoya evuM nathI. gujarAtI-sudAnI sAthe sAthe rahe che. badhA gujarAtIone sudAnI-arabI bhASA AvaDe che. gujarAtIonAM gharomAM gujarAtanuM ja vAtAvaraNa jovA maLe. teomAM vyavahAranI bhASA paNa gujarAtI ja che. caMdubhAI pItAMbarane maLIne amane atyaMta AnaMda thayo (dAdA pItAMbaranuM nAma temaNe aTaka tarIke rAkhyuM che). teo potAnA vyavasAyamAM to AgaLa vadhelA che ja, paraMtu sudAnamAM rahIne emaNe judA judA dharmono sAro abhyAsa karyo che. teo jAte vaiSNava che. saMskRta bhASAnA jANakAra che. zrImad bhagavad gItA, vedo vagereno abhyAsa karyo che. iMglizamAM temaNe bAibala vAMcyuM che ane erebikamAM kurAna vAMcyuM che. erebika te jANe emanI bIjI mAtRbhASA che. emano janma ahIM sudAnamAM ja eka nAnA gAmamAM thayelo ane zALAno abhyAsa paNa ahIM ja karelo. emanA pitA jUnAgaDha pAse vaMthalInA. paMdara varSanI vaye, eka jaina vepArI sAthe, emanA rasoiyA tarIke kAma karavA vahANamAM sudAna AvelA. mudatI nokarIthI AvelA, paNa pachI eTaluM gamyuM ke dezamAM jaI, lagna karIne pAchA sudAnamAM AvIne vasyA ane ghaNAM sagAMone teDAvyAM. caMdubhAInAM saMtAno paNa khUba AgaLa vadhelAM che. caMdubhAIe kahyuM ke, "sudAna' zabda "sudda' parathI Avelo che. sudra eTale kAdava,
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________________ 98 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 kAdavavALI jamIna. sudAnamAM raNa ane paDatara pradeza ghaNo moTo che. AvaDA moTA sudAnamAM moTAM zahero mAtra pAMca-sAta che ane te badhAM khATmathI nAnAM, paNa nAIla nadI sudAnanI vaccethI vahe che. enA baMne kAMThA paranI jamIna atyaMta phaLadrupa che, eTalI phaLadrupa ke sivila vaoNra vakhate ame amAruM gAma choDIne bhAgyA hatA. pachI bAra mahine jyAre pAchA pharyA tyAre je jagyAe ame kerInA goTalA nAkhyA hatA tyAM AMbAnAM jhADa potAnI meLe UgI gayAM hatAM." 1970nI AsapAsa pAMceka varSa sudAnamAM bahu kaparo kALa hato. jIvana jarUriyAtanI badhI ja cIjavastuonI, khAdya padArthonI bhAre achata. badhe ja lAMbI lAMbI lAino lAge. kyAreka to aThavADiye vAra Ave. sivila vora vakhate ghaNA puruSo mAryA gayA. strIonuM pramANa pAMca gaNuM vadhI gayuM. eTale ja majUrI karavA AvelA yuvAna cInAone sudAnI strI sAthe lagna karavAnI taka maLI gaI. sudAnamAM muslimonI bahumatI che. islAma deza che. ahIM dhArmika kaTTaratA che. eTale ahIM zarAba pIvAnI manAI che. moTI paMcatAraka hoTelomAM paNa zarAba pIrasI zakAya nahi. dakSiNa sudAnamAM khristI loko che. teone anAja, davA, kapaDAM ApIne pAchA muslima banAvavAnI moTI jhuMbeza cAle che. paNa pachI zarAbano kAyama tyAga karavo paDe eTalA mATe ghaNA khristI loko islAma dharma svIkAratA nathI. sudAnanI bhaugolika sthiti vilakSaNa che. enI eka sarahade rAto samudra che. bAkInI sarahada para ithiyopiyA, kenyA, yugAnDA, kaoNMgo, madhya Aphrikana ripablika, cADa, libiyA ane ijipta AvelAM che. ATha paDozI rASTro sAthe sarahada saMbhALavAnuM kaparuM thaI paDe, paraMtu sudAnane koI sarahadI samasyA nathI, kAraNa ke tyAM verAna nirjana pradezamAM vaheMcavAnuM khAsa kazuM nathI. sudAnanI mukhya samasyA te nabaLA arthataMtranI che. phugAvo ghaNo che ane videzI hUMDiyAmaNa bahu ochuM che. pahelAM eka amerikana DaoNlaranA bAra sudAnI pAunDa ApavA paDatA, have aDhI hajAra pAunDa ApavA paDe che. videzI calaNa mATe kAyado mAtra kaDaka nahi, kUra che. koI paNa vyakti pAsethI pAMcaso DaoNlarathI vadhu rakama gerakAyade nIkaLe to ene sIdhI phAMsInI sajA thAya che. atyAra sudhImAM trIseka jaNane phAMsInI sajA apAI gaI che. AvA kaDaka kAyadAo hovA chatAM tyAM corI, lUMTaphATanA gunAonuM pramANa vadhu che. garIbI, bekArI hoya tyAM svAbhAvika rIte ja gunAkhorInuM pramANa vadhu hoya. khATmamAM ame keTalAMka gujarAtI kuTuMbanuM Atithya mANyuM. ahIM keTalAka loko madhyAhna bhojana baporanA bAra ke eka vAge nahi, paNa sAMjanA sADAcAra-pAMca vAge
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________________ 99 khASTrama le che. keTalAMka musalamAna kuTuMbomAM sAMjanuM vALu rAtanA dasa-agiyAra-bAra vAge levAya che. ramajhAnanA divaso bahu AkarA na lAge mATe to AvI bhojanaprathA nahi pracalita thaI hoya ne ? khASTramamAM Azare savAso jaina kuTuMbo che. amArA AgamananA samAcAra maLatAM ja milana-vyAkhyAnanA kAryakramo goThavAI gayA hatA. tyAMnA lokoe paheraveza, bhASA, raheNIkaraNI, rItarivAja, dharmasaMskAra ityAdimAM potAnAM mULa sAcavI rAkhyAM che e joIne AnaMda thayo. | khATTamamAM kAmakAja pUruM thatAM amAre nAirobI pAchA pharavAnuM hatuM. phalAiTa rAtanA traNa vAgyAnI hatI, paraMtu moDI rAte nIkaLavAnuM salAhabharyuM nahotuM. eTale ame eraporTa para bahu vahelA jaIne besI gayA hatA. nAnuM eraporTa, giradIno pAra nahi, kAryadakSatA ochI ane sAmAna corAtAM vAra nahi. vimAnamAM potAnI beThakamAM besatAM sudhImAM koI gUMca UbhI na thaI eno rAhatabharyo AnaMda paNa amane ocho nahoto !
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________________ 13 TrassothI AlTA yuropanI uttare, uttara dhruvavartuLa(ArkaTika sarkala)mAM AvelA dezomAM naoNrve eka lAkSaNika deza che. nakazAmAM enA samudrakinArAnI lITI atizaya vAMka-vaLAMka ane khUNAkhAMcarAvALI jovA maLe che. eno uttarIya samudra sAhasikone haMmezAM pralobhana Apato rahyo che. naoNrve eTale parvatono pradeza ane parvato vaccenI lAMbI lAMbI khINomAM anAdi kALathI ghUsI gayelAM samudranAM khArAM pANIno pradeza. AvI kudaratI racanAne kyorDa (Fjord) - girisamudra kahevAmAM Ave che ane norve kyorDanA pradeza tarIke paMkAyelo che. kyorDanuM sauMdarya anokhuM che. AvA kyorDa nihALavA mATe ame naoNrvenA dhruvartuLamAM AvelA Trasso(Tromso)thI AlTA(Alta)no pravAsa basamAM karavAnuM pasaMda karyuM hatuM. norvenA pATanagara oslothI ame Trasso pahoMcyA. tyAMnI "hoTela grAnDa noDikamAM amAro utAro hato. hoTelamAM pahoMcI, svAgata kakSamAM nAma noMdhAvI, rUmanI ilekTronika cAvI laI ame amAro rUma kholatA hatA tyAM rUmamAMthI jorathI saMgItano avAja Avato hato. rUma baMdha che ane aMdara TI. vI. cAlu rahI gayuM che. koNe AvI bhUla karI haze ? AgalA pravAsIe ke saphAI karanAra kAmadAre ? je hoya te, paNa enI bedarakArI mATe ame babaDyA. daravAjo kholI aMdara dAkhala thatAM ja sAme TI. vI. dekhAyuM. e cAlatuM hatuM, saMgIta vahI rahyuM hatuM, paNa e koInI bedarakArI nahotI. vastuta: hoTelanI amArA svAgata mATenI anokhI rIta hatI. TI. vI nA paDadA para aMgrejImAM moTA raMgaberaMgI akSaromAM vaMcAyuM : "padhAro zrI ramaNalAla zAha ane zrI abhaya mahetA, amArA mAnavaMtA mahemAna. grAnDa norDika hoTela ApanuM hArdika svAgata kare che. potAnuM nAma Ama aNadhAryuM TI. vI nA paDadA para vAMcIne kone AnaMda na thAya ? rUmamAM sAmAna goThavI, hAtha-moM dhoI ame svastha thayA te daramiyAna TI. vI.nuM saMgIta maMda thatuM thatuM svayaM baMdha thaI gayuM. amArAM nAma, kahevata pramANe, adazya thaI gayAM. ame baTana dabAvI pharI TI. vI. cAlu karyuM to vaMcAyuM : "pratyeka cenalanA dara rUmamAM rAkhelI patrikAmAM chApelA che. te pramANe sikkA TI. vI. mATe rAkhelA
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________________ TrassothI AlTA 101 baoNksamAM nAkhavA.' svAgata karanAra TI. vI e amane potAnuM asalI svarUpa batAvI dIdhuM. moMghA jIvananirvAhavALA pradezomAM Ama banavuM svAbhAvika che. TummomAM pharavA mATe ame rUmamAMthI nIce UtaryA. tapAsa karatAM risepzanisTa yuvatIe amane Tusso vize mAhitI patrikA ApI. meM pUchyuM, tame lakho cho "Tromyo" (Tromso) ane uccAra "Trasso' kema karo cho ? yuvatIe kahyuM, "naoNrvenI amArI noDika bhASAmAM "O'no uccAra "U' thAya che. "O'no uccAra "o" karavo hoya to OmAM vacce trAMsI lITI karavAmAM Ave che. eTale TromsonA chellA "O'mAM tamane ahIM trAMsI lITI jovA maLaze. evI ja rIte ame "J'no uccAra 'ya' karIe chIe. eTale kyorDanI joDaNI Fjord vAMcavA maLaze.' dareka mulakanI lekhana-uccAraNanI khAsiyata bhinna bhinna hoya che. bahAra jatAM pahelAM ame kaoNphI pIvAnuM vicAryuM. laoNbI pAse eka khUNAmAM kophInuM kAunTara hatuM. hoTelanA mahemAnone tyAM divasa-rAta, covIse kalAka kophI maphata maLe. (alabatta, e bhAra aMte to kanyAnI keDa para hoya.) eka moTA jaMgamAM kaoNphI garama rahyA kare. pAse kapa, khAMDa, dUdhanA pAuDaranAM paDIkAM paDyAM hoya. jAte banAvIne jyAre jeTalI pIvI hoya teTalI kaoNphI pI zakAya. koI rokaToka nahi. duniyAnI keTalIka moTI hoTelomAM A suvidhA vadhatI jAya che. ame kaoNphI pIne pharavA nIkaLyA. lagabhaga paMcotera hajAranI vastI dharAvatuM Trasso uttara norvemAM samudrakinAre AveluM nAnA TApuonuM baneluM eka moTuM raLiyAmaNuM nagara che. bhUtakALamAM uttara dhruvanA zodhasApharIo mATe te prayANasthAna gaNAtuM. svaccha ane sughaDa TramsonA lokono svabhAva maLatAvaDo ane AdarasatkAravALo hovAthI zodhasapharIo ahIM thoDA divasa rahI, lokonA uttaranA dhruva-pradezanA anubhavonI vAto sAMbhaLI potAnI zodhasaphara mATe mArgadarzana meLavatA. nRtya-nATakAdi tathA anya manoraMjanAtmaka pravRttione kAraNe Tramsone kaeNnDineviyana pradezanA "perisa' tarIke oLakhAvAtuM, lAkaDAnAM bAMdhakAma ane rAcaracIlA mATe Trasso mazahUra hatuM. krame krame Trasso eka zaikSaNika ane sAMskRtika kendra banI gayuM. ahIMnA bhUrI AMkhovALA lokonA caherAmAM goLAkAranuM pramANa vadhu che ane emanI cAmaDIno raMga paNa vadhu zveta che. AisalaeNnDanI jema ahIMnA lokone paNa gherA raMgo vadhu game che e emanA gharonA bhIMta-chatanA raMgo tathA vastronA raMgo parathI joI zakAya che. ghero bhUro raMga teono priya raMga hoya ema jaNAya che. unALo Ave eTale rastA para lokonI avarajavara vadhe ane AkAzamAM vadhe
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________________ 102 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 gala pakSIonI UDAUDa. ahIM havAmAnanI anizcitatA rahyA kare. ghaDIkamAM vAtAvaraNa khuzanumA thAya, ghaDIkamAM ThaMDo joradAra pavana phUMkAya, to ghaDIkamAM jharamara varasAda cAlu thAya. thoDI vAra koI dukAnanA chAparA nIce UbhA rahI javuM paDe. TussomAM ame je jovA jevAM sthaLo joyAM temAM eka hatuM "poleriyA'. emAM pola (Pole) eTale dhruvapradezanI philma batAvavAmAM AvI. emAM jANe helikopTaramAM besIne sAva najIkathI ApaNe jotA hoIe evo sarasa anubhava thayo. dhruvapradezamAM AvelA spiTsabargananA TApuo, pakSIo, pazuo, mAchalIo, baraphanI bihAmaNI racanAo vagere jotAM ApaNe sAkSAt himapradezamAM pharatA hoIe evuM lAge. kemerAnI kaLAe durgama ke jIvaleNa sthaLonAM dRzyo ApaNA caraNe dharI dIdhAM che. poleriyA" pachI ame yunivarsiTI vistAramAM AveluM pleneToriyama joyuM. ahIM TikiTa ApavA mATe bhAratIya jevI lAgatI eka zyAmavarNI yuvatI hatI. te iMgliza ane norDika (naoNrvejiyana) bhASA akhkhalita bolatI hatI. pUchatAM jANavA maLyuM ke te zrIlaMkAnI che. zAntipriya naoNrvee zrIlaMkAnA ghaNA mANasone potAnA dezamAM kAyamI vasavATa Apyo che. Tusso jevA dhruvapradezamAM zrIlaMkAnAM ghaNAM kuTuMbo vase che e jANIne amane AnaMda thayo. mANasanuM bhAgya ene kyAMthI kyAM laI jAya che ? pleneToriyamamAM amane Northern LightsnAM dRzyo batAvavAmAM AvyAM. uttara-dhruvanA pradezomAM enI ziyALAnI dIrdharAtri daramiyAna AkAzamAM vividharaMgI prakAzanA lisoTA - Aurora Borealis thAya che ane badalAtA rahe che. kudaratanI A eka ajAyabI che. enAM dazyo nihALatAM romAMca anubhavAyo. A dazyo uparAMta norvenI uttera AvelA spiTabargana, novAyA jhemalyA vagere TApuonAM bhavya ane karAla dRzyo ame joyAM. ApaNe jANe helikopTaramAM besIne jotAM hoIe evo anubhava pahelAM to sAro lAgyo, paNa pachI helikaoNpTaranA jhaDapI ane jokhamI vaLAMko jotAM, ApaNe khurazImAM beThAM hoIe chatAM samatulA gumAvatA hoIe evuM anubhavAya. koIne cakkara Ave ke gabharAmaNa thAya. eTalA mATe philmanI zarUAtamAM ja evI sUcanA ApavAmAM AvI hatI ke "AvuM lAge teoe tarata AMkha baMdha karI devI. na sahana thAya to bahAra cAlyA javuM. tamArI tabiyata bagaDe to e mATe vyavasthApako javAbadAra nathI." uttara dhruvanAM AvAM DarAvanArAM dRzyo jAte tyAM jaIne kyAM joI zakAya ema che? kemerAnI kalAnA e AzIrvAda ! pleneToriyama joI, pAchA pharI, bhojana laIne ane maphata kaoNphI pIne ame pharavA nIkaLyA. sAMja to mAtra ghaDiyALamAM paDavA AvI hatI, bahAra to khAsse ajavALuM hatuM. ame basamAM besI, pula oLaMgI bIjI bAjunA TApu para gayA. khADI
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________________ 103 TrassothI AlTA uparano A pula vadhAre paDato UMco ane prathama dRSTie beDoLa lAge evo che. eno UMcAmAM UMco bhAga madhyamAM nahi paNa eka bAju che. vaLI eTalA bhAgamAM nIce staMbha nathI. nIcethI UMcI UMcI sTImaro pasAra thaI zake e mATe ja ema karavAmAM AvyuM che. upayogitAvAda AgaLa saundaryavAdane ahIM namavuM paDyuM che. e bAjunA TApu upara Azare be hajAra phUTa UMco himAcchAdita DuMgara che ane tyAM kebala kAramAM 1360 phUTa UMce jaI zakAya che. pachI pAMcaso phUTanuM caDhANa che. kebala kAramAM ame upara pahoMcyA. vAtAvaraNa prasannatAthI sabhara hatuM. A DuMgara uparathI TramsonA be mukhya TApuonuM ane samagra vistAranuM bahuraMgI vihaMgama dRzya jotAM atyaMta AslAda thayo. ghaNA pravAsIo tyAM ekatra thayA hatA. keTalAka baraphamAM upara caDI rahyA hatA, keTalAka UtarI rahyA hatA. baraphamAM cAlavuM, DuMgara caDavo e paNa eka kaLA che. samatolapaNAnI kasoTI Dagale Dagale thAya. ame vIsa-pacIsa DagalAM upara caDyA hoIzuM tyAM acAnaka havAmAna badalAI gayuM. ThaMDo pavana nIkaLyo ane himavarSA cAlu thaI. AvA vAtAraNamAM rahevAnuM pravAsIo mATe asahya hatuM. badhA jhaTapaTa nIce UtarI gayA ane kApheTeriyAmAM bharAI gayA. evAmAM bAreka varSanI eka chokarI nIkaLI. himavarSAmAM baraphamAM te DuMgara caDhavA lAgI. teNe garama kapaDAM paNa khAsa paheryA nahotAM. tenI cAla parathI te anubhavI ane A pradezanI lAgI. DuMgaranI Toca para jaI te hasatI hasatI pAchI AvI, badhAMe ene zAbAzI ApI. kudaratanI kevI sarasa vyavasthA che ke je pradezamAM mANasa janmyo hoya te pradezanI AbohavA, dharatInI racanA, vanaspati, pazupakSIo, raheNIkaraNI, khAnapAna sAthe te ekarUpa thaI jAya che. enuM zarIra paNa ene anurUpa banI jAya che. emAM ene phariyAda karavA jevuM, prakRtino vAMka kADhavA jevuM kazuM lAgatuM nathI. kudarata to AvI ja hoya evI sahaja svIkRti enA lohImAM vaNAI jAya che. baraphamAM UcharelAne barapha vagaranA pradezamAM cena nahi paDe. eskimo madhya AphrikAnA garama pradezamAM ane Aphrikana rahevAsI dhruva pradezamAM ekabIjAnI jema rahI na zake. eTale ja amAre mATe je asahya hatuM te pelI nAnI chokarI mATe sahaja ane AnaMdaprada hatuM. DuMgara parathI kebala kAramAM pAchA AvI ame eka ArTa gelerImAM citronuM pradarzana jovA gayA. Trasso ane enI AsapAsanA pradezanAM kudaratanAM dRzyo citrakAre moTA kenavAsa para doryA hatAM. emAM eka mukhya viSaya hato - vAdaLa pAchaLano sUrya. A pradezamAM khullo jhaLahaLato sUrya to varSamAM thoDA divasa, thoDA samaya mATe jovA maLe. e joIne mANaso nAcI UThe. vAdaLAM pAchaLathI sUrya prakAzato hoya evAM dRzyonI vaividhyabharI lIlA aparaMpAra che. eka vakhata joyeluM dazya barAbara e ja svarUpe jiMdagImAM bIjI vAra jovA na maLe. A pradarzane paNa e vAtanI pratIti
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 104 karAvI. evuM ja bIjuM pradarzana phoTogrAphsanuM ame joyuM. kalAomAM paNa dareka prajAnA potAnA viziSTa prAdezika viSayo paNa hoya che. TrumsothI AlTA ane enI AsapAsanA pradezamAM prAgaitihAsika kALamAM mAnavavasavATa haze enI sAbitI darzAvatI keTalIka rekhAkRtio paththaromAM kotarelI maLI AvI che. e cArathI pAMca-cha hajAra varSa pUrvenI hovAnuM vaijJAniko mAne che. grAmya prakAranI A rekhAkRtiomAM mAnavaAkRtio uparAMta hoDI, mAchalI, reinaDiyara, bhAlo, bANa vagere kotarelAM jovA maLe che. be divasa rumsomAM rahIne ame AlTA javA nIkaLyA. A pradezamAM majUra to maLe nahi, eTale sAmAna to hAthe ja UMcakIne javuM paDe. pravAsamAM ochA sAmAnanuM mahattva Ave vakhate samajAya. sadbhAgye basasTaoNpa pAse ja hatuM. sAmAna UMcakIne ame tyAM pahoMcyA. basane vAra hatI eTale ame pAsenA resTorAMmAM kaoNphI pIvA gayA. eka kapanA pacAsa rUpiyA jeTalA kronara (naoNrvenuM calaNa) ApavA paDyA. amane thayuM ke nIkaLatI vakhate hoTelamAM kaoNphI pI lIdhI hota to sAruM thAta. hoTela choDI dIdhA pachI mAtra kophI pIvA tyAM javuM te ayogya gaNAya. AlTA mATenI basa sAMje barAbara poNApAMca vAge AvI pahoMcI. 320 kilomITa2nuM aMtara hatuM ane sAta kalAkanI saphara hatI. dhruva pradezamAM A RtumAM lAMbI saphara karavAmAM aMdhAruM thaI javAnI ciMtA nahi, kAraNa ke madharAte sUryanA mulakamAM ame AvI cUkyA hatA. amArI basa kyorDanA kinAre kinAre, DuMga2nI dhAra 52 banAvelA Adhunika suMdara rastA para sarakI rahI hatI. bArImAMthI satata kyorDanAM darzana thAya. nizcaMcala udadhijalano ghero bhUro raMga cittane prasannatAthI sabhara karI deto hato. phlorDa vizALa lAMbA sarovara jevA lAge. samudranAM pANI chatAM samudra jevAM moTAM ghUghavatAM mojAM nahi. vaLI baMne bAju nakkara paththaranA DuMgarone lIdhe kyAMya retIno taTa nahi. dhruvapradezamAM nAnA nAnA DuMgarAone paNa himAcchAdita thavAnuM mAna maLe ane pANImAM potAnuM pratibiMba nihALavAnI taka maLe. kyorDanA kinAre vizuddha paryAvaraNamAM adbhuta zAntino anubhava thAya che. jema jema uttara tarapha ame AgaLa vadhatA jatA hatA tema tema mArgamAM AvatAM vRkSonAM kada ghaTatAM jatAM hatAM. A bAju khetI khAsa kazI ja nahi. vastI paNa bahu ochI. chUTAMchavAyAM gharomAM mANaso rahetA hoya. aMdhArA ziyALAmAM gharanI bahAra na nIkaLavAnI Teva unALAmAM paNa laMbAya. ToLe vaLIne ghaNAMbadhAM bALako ramatAM hoya evuM bane nahi kAraNa ke bALakonI saMkhyA ja ochI. eka sthaLe sAmasAmI dizAmAMthI sAikala para AvatAM be bALako ekabIjAne maLyAM to emanA caherA para AnaMda samAto nahoto.
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________________ TrassothI AlTA 105 DuMgaranI eka dhAre rasto pUro thato hato eTale amArI base kinAro badalavAno hato. e mATe amAre basamAMthI UtaravAnI jarUra nahotI. basa pote ja, pacIseka basa samAya evI vizALa sTImaramAM besI gaI. DrAivare ke musApharoe vAhanamAMthI UtaravAnI anivAryatA nahi, paNa jeone paga chUTA karavA hoya, kophI pIvI hoya, zaucAdinI AvazyakatA hoya, sTImaranI sapharanI moja mANavI hoya teo basamAMthI UtaryA. ahIM kaoNphI vadhu moMghI hatI, eka kapanA doDhaso rUpiyA jeTalA kronara amAre ApavA paDyA. aDadhA kalAkanI saphara pachI sTImara sAmA kinArAnA baMdare UbhI rahI ane basa bahAra nIkaLI AgaLa cAlavA lAgI. have ThaMDInuM pramANa vadhyuM hatuM. paherelAM garama kapaDAM upara bIjI eka joDa caDI gaI. pharIthI sTImaramAM besI ame olDaraDAlema pahoMcyA. vacce kiphaeNnesa, je kela kyorDa vagere gAmo AvyAM. A bAju vAhano khAsa nahi, eTale rastAmAM mANasa hAtha UMco kare to DrAivara basa UbhI rAkhI ene laI le. AgaLa jatAM eka TekarI upara basasTezana AvyuM. koI gAma nahi, paNa mAtra virAma mATenuM e sthaLa hatuM. tyAM jarUriyAta ane yAdagIrInI moMghI vastuonI nAnI nAnI dukAno hatI. kaoNphI paNa maLatI hatI, eka kapanA baso rUpiyA. TADha uDADavA kaoNphI pIvI paDe ane kaoNphInA bhAva sAMbhaLIne TADha vAya. eTale kophI pIvAnuM ame mAMDI vALyuM. mitre kahyuM ke, "jema jema AgaLa jaIe chIe tema tema kaoNphInA bhAva vadhatA jAya che.' kahyuM, "paNa ethI nirAza na thavuM, kAraNa ke pAchA pharatAM bhAva ochA thatA jaze ane chelle maphata kaoNphI maLaze." Trasso pachI uttara naoNrvenuM eka moTuM zahera AlTA have AvI rahyuM hatuM. amAro DrAivara basa svasthatAthI, kuzaLatAthI ane niyamitatAthI calAvI rahyo hato. te ghaDiyALa sAme najara rAkhI gatimAM vadhaghaTa karato raheto. barAbara ghaDiyALanA Takore rAtanA poNAbAra vAge AlTA AvI pahoMcyuM. ajavALuM to evuM ne evuM ja hatuM. basasTopathI amArI hoTela dUra hatI eTale sAmAna UMcakIne, vacce thAka khAtAM khAtAM, ame hoTela 'rikA AlTA'mAM pahoMcyA. rUmamAM sAmAna goThavI ame sauthI paheluM kAma dharAIne kaoNphI pIvAnuM karyuM, kema ke haoNTelamAM te maphata hatI. kaoNphI jevI kSudra vastu paNa manuSyanA mananA bhAvonI kevI kasoTI kare che !
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________________ 17. hAmaraphesTa pRthvInA goLAmAM nakazA upara najara nAkhatAM nihALavA maLaze ke uttara dhruvanA pradezamAM yuropanI dharatIno uttara cheDo naoNrvenA naoNrtha kepa nAmanA sthaLe Avelo che. naoNrtha kepano akSAMza che 71deg 10deg 21". northa kepa javuM hoya to hAmaraphesTa thaIne javAya. hAmaraphesTano akSAMza che 70deg 39' 48". naoNrtha kepa javA mATe ame AlTA(Alta)thI hAmaraphesTa (Hammerfest - hemaraphesTa) basamAM pahoMcyA hatA. basano rasto kyorDa (Fjord) - girisamudranA kinAre kinAre jato hato. baMne bAju nAnA nAnA himAcchAdita DuMgaronI saLaMga hAramALA ane vacce gherA bhUrA raMganA samudrajalano sAMkaDo sudIrgha suzAMta pravAha. ahIM vRkSo nahi ane pakSIono kalarava paNa javalle ja, prakRtinuM adbhuta saundarya ane vAtAvaraNanI nIravatA ApaNane gahana zAntino anubhava karAve che. ramaNIyatAnuM AkaMTha pAna karatA hoIe tyAre vAta karavAnuM mana na thAya. jUna mahino eTale himAcchAdita DuMgarono kaparo kALa. sUryanArAyaNa emane raDAvIne ja jaMpe. zveta jaTAdhArI DuMgaro codhAra (be AMkhonA cAra khUNe) nahi paNa zatadhAra AMsu vahAve. uttara dhruvanA A pradezamAM sUryane potAnI prakharatAno lAbha nathI maLato, to enuM sATuM vALavA unALAmAM eNe potAnI pharaja kALa bamaNocovIsa kalAkano karI nAkhyo che. AMsu sArI sArIne nisteja ane zuSka banelA DuMgaro kyAreka AkAzamAMthI, gautama RSinA zApa pachI pazcAttApa anubhavatA sahasAkSa indrane-vRSTinA devatAne hajAra AMkhe thIjelAM AMsu (Snow) potAnA upara vahAvato joIne sahAnubhUtipUrvaka sAMtvana anubhave che. keTalAka DuMgaro para mAtra mastake ja barapha rahelo che. eka DuMgara upara dhoLA baraphano AkAra evo hato ke jANe eNe mAthe gAMdhITopI paherI na hoya ! manamAM thayuM ke "aho ! gAMdhIjInA saMniSTha svayaMsevako TheTha ahIM sudhI AvI pahoMcyA che ne !' ame bapore hAmaraphesTa pahoMcI gayA. ahIM vAhanonI avarajavara nahi jevI. page cAlIne ja badhe javAnuM. sAmAna UMcakIne ame amArI hoTela rikA (Ricca)mAM pahoMcI gayA. rUmamAM sAmAna mUkI svastha thaI ame gAmamAM laTAra mAravA nIkaLyA. hAmaraphesTa dasa hajAranI vastIvALuM nAnuM gAma che. yuropanI uttara dizAmAM
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________________ hAmaraphesTa 107 kAyamI vasavATavALuM A chelluM nagara che. ahIMthI AgaLa "uttara dhruva' samudramAM himAcchAdita TApuo che, paNa tyAM kAyamI vasavATa nathI. ahIMnA lokono mukhya vyavasAya te mAchalI mAravAno ane vahelanA zikArano che. ziyALAmAM to e vyavasAya paNa baMdha paDe. paraMtu unALAmAM hajAro pravAsIonI avarajavarane kAraNe kamANInAM sAdhano paNa vadhe che. eTale ja hAmaraphesTa jevA nAnA gAmamAM daseka jeTalI moTI hoTelo che. ziyALAnI bhayaMkara aMdhArI dIrgha rAtrimAM ahIM jIvana gujAravuM saraLa nathI. ziyALo AvatAM keTalAya loko sthaLAntara karI jAya che. traNeka saikA pahelAM to ahIM koI ja rahetuM nahotuM. dhIme dhIme thoDo vasavATa cAlu thayo tyAre naoNrvenA rAjAe I. sa. 1789mAM 7mI julAIe hAmaraphesTane eka nagara tarIke mAnyatA ApI hatI. rAjya taraphathI nagara-darajjo maLatAM ahIM rAjyanA karmacArIo AvIne vasyA hatA. hAmaraphesTamAM loko AvIne vasavA lAgyA, kAraNa ke A eka kudaratI sarasa baMdara che. kinAre ja UMDo dariyo eTale moTAM jahAjo TheTha kinArA sudhI AvI zake. dariyo paNa vaLAMkavALo ane pAse UMcI TekarIvALo che, eTale kudaratI rakSaNa maLI zake ane TekarI parathI dUra sudhInuM avalokana thaI zake. uttara dhruvanI saphare jatAM vahANo ahIM rokAtAM. khalAsIo rAtavAso karatA ane pIvAnuM tAjuM pANI bharI letA. naoNrve uparAMta bIjA dezonAM jahAjo ahIM AvavA lAgyAM eTale naoNrvee potAnA A baMdarane AMtararASTrIya baMdarano darajjo Apyo. videzI pravAsIo, vahANavaTIo vagerenA pravezanI cakAsaNI mATe sarakArI taMtra ahIM sthApavAmAM AvyuM. A badhAe hAmaraphesTanA vikAsamAM phALo Apyo che. AMtararASTrIya baMdara thavAne kAraNe tathA ziyALAnI lAMbI aMdhArI rAtane kAraNe, uttara yuropamAM jyAre vijaLI AvI tyAre rastA para vIjaLInA thAMbhalA pahelavahelAM hAmaraphesTamAM 1890-91mAM nakhAyA. nagarajano Azcaryamugdha thaI gayA. mahotsava jevuM vAtAvaraNa nirmAyuM. hAmaraphesTa bahu nasIbavaMtuM gaNAyuM. hAmaraphesTanuM aitihAsika mahattva bIjI rIte paNa darzAvAya che. vijaLI AvI te pUrvenI e ghaTanA che. yuropamAM, vizeSata: iMglenDamAM vaijJAnikoe I. sa. 1816mAM AkhI pRthvInA parigha (Circumference)nuM mApa kADhavAno kAryakrama ghaDI kADhyo. AkhI duniyAnA rekhAMza ane akSAMza nakkI karAtA gayA ane e rIte nakazA taiyAra thatA gayA. anukrame pRthvInuM mApa kADhatAM kADhatAM teo chelle hAmaraphesTamAM AvyA. ahInAM parighanA mApa sAthe mApanuM kArya pUruM thayuM ane I. sa. 1852mAM ahIMthI pRthvInA parighanI jAherAta thaI. ahIM enuM smAraka (Meridian Monument) karavAmAM AvyuM.
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________________ 108 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 ame rastA para pharatA hatA. ahIMnI havAno koI anokho sparza anubhavAto hato. ghaDiyALano kAMTo khasato jato hato, sAMja paDavA AvI hatI, paNa te mAtra ghaDiyALamAM. divasanuM ajavALuM to evuM ne evuM ja hatuM. uttara dhruvano A badho pradeza madharAte sUrya (Midnight Sun)nA pradeza tarIke oLakhAya che. 17mI methI 28mI julAI sudhI sUrya covIse kalAka AkAzamAM ja hoya che. evI ja rIte dhruvarAtri (Polar Night) daramiyAna, ahIM 22mI navembarathI 21mI jAnyuArI sudhI AkAzamAM kyAreya sUrya hoto nathI. kudaratanI A eka bhaugolika ajAyabI che. A sivAyanA divasomAM sUryodaya-sUryAstanA samayamAM kramAnusAra vadhaghaTa cAle che, paraMtu sUrya kyAreya madhyAkAze Avato nathI. hAmaraphesTamAM ghaDiyALa ane kelenDara ja mANasane calAve che. ghaDiyALa ja kahe ke sUvA mATeno samaya thaI gayo che. kelenDara ja kahe ke have tArIkha badalAI che. bahAra to badhuM ekasarakhuM ja lAge. ethI ja A pradezanA lokonAM AhAra-vihAra ane UMgha niyamita hotAM nathI. jAgyA tyArathI savAra e kahevata ahIM vadhAre sAcI lAge che. A RtumAM ahIM divasa ane rAta evuM vibhAjana hotuM nathI. eTale mANasonI pravRttio paNa aniyamita rahe che. aDadhI rAte (ghaDiyALamAM) ApaNane rastA para mANaso pharatA dekhAya. ApaNe mATe aDadhI rAta paNa emane mATe savAra. ApaNA pUrA 73 divasa (rAtrisahita) barAbara emano eka divasa, purANakathAomAM Ave che ke devono eka divasa barAbara ApaNA amuka divaso. ahIM hAmaraphesTamAM ame devonA divasamAM hoIe evuM sAkSAt anubhavyuM. be saikA pUrve mANaso jyAre rahetA haze tyAre bhUkha-tarasa ane UMghanA AdhAre emanI jIvanazailI ghaDAI haze. teone kalpanA paNa nahi hoya ke potAne tyAM divasarAtrinuM je cakra che te asAmAnya che ane A pRthvImAM anyatra divasa ane rAtrinuM kAyamane mATe lagabhaga sarakhApaNuM che; kyAMka Akho divasa AkAza nirabhra hoya che ane sUrya eTalo jhaLahaLe che ke enI sAme najara mAMDatAM AMkha aMjAI jAya che. ahIM sUrya ghaNuMkharuM vAdaLAmAM DhaMkAyelo rahe che ane thoDIka vAra jyAre khullo prakAze che tyAre ene animiSa nayane satata nihALI zakAya che. ame ahIMnI bajAramAM thoDuM pharyA. mukhyatve pravAsIo mATenI vastuo vecAya che. pravAsIomAM paNa ghaNA to masyazikAra mATe Ave che. ahIM 'polara bera sosAyaTI"nuM myujhiyama che. emAM uttara dhruvanA pradezamAM zikAranI pravRttine lagatI sAmagrI rAkhavAmAM AvI che. himazilA upara UbheluM dhruvapradezanuM dhoLuM rIMcha e ahIMnuM pratIka che. hAmaraphesTamAM eka kaeNthalika khristI devaLa che. pRthvInI uttare AveluM A chelluM
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________________ 109 hAmarakesTa devaLa che. bahArathI ame e joyuM. evI ja rIte bahArathI joyuM saMgItabhavana (Music Pavilion). enuM zilpa-sthApatya vakhaNAya che. ahIM jovA jevuM bIjuM eka sthaLa te punarnirmANa saMgrahAlaya' (Reconstruction Museum) che. hAmaraphesTe moTI Apatti be vAra joI che. eka kudaratI Apatti ane bIjI mAnavasarjita Apatti. ahIMnI khamIravaMtI prajAe baMne vakhate potAnA nagaranuM punarnirmANa karyuM che. A himapradeza hovAthI gharo lAkaDAnAM hoya ke jethI emAM uSmA rahe. paraMtu agni lAkaDAno moTo duzmana. gaI sadImAM jyAre Aga olavavAnAM bahu sAdhano nahotAM ane bahArathI jaladI madada pahoMce ema nahotI tyAre A kASTharipue kALo kera A nagaramAM vartAvyo hato. nAnI Aga aMkuzamAM na AvI ane AkhA nagarane bhasmIbhUta karIne rahI. A tArAjImAMthI hAmaraphesTa dhIme dhIme beThuM thayuM ane pharIthI pravRttiothI dhamadhamatuM thayuM. tyAra pachI bIjI vArano eno vinAza bIjA vizvayuddha vakhate thayo. tyAre iMglenDa sAme (ane pachIthI raziyA vagere sAme paNa) yuddhe caDelA hiTalaranA jarmanIe yuropanA ghaNA dezo upara Adhipatya meLavI lIdhuM hatuM. dariyAI mArge eNe vyuhAtmaka dRSTie mahattvanA evA hAmaraphesTa baMdara upara paNa potAno kabajo jamAvI lIdho hato. jarmanIno sAmano karavAnI naoNrve pAse kyAM tAkAta hatI ? paraMtu bIjA vizvayuddhamAM jarmanIno parAjya thatAM hAmaraphesTathI bhAgatA jarmana sainikoe hAmaraphesTamAMnAM potAnAM thANAM uDAvI devA sAthe samagra nagarane bhagnAvazeSa banAvI dIdhuM. bIjA vizvayuddha pachI hAmaraphesTanuM navanirmANa thayuM tyAre A bhagnAvazeSo sAcavIne enuM saMgrahasthAna ahIM banAvavAmAM AvyuM che. amArI AMkhomAM UMgha nahotI, paNa paga have thAkyA hatA. eTale hoTela para AvI, alpAhAra karI ame sUtA, paraMtu UMgha AvatI nahotI. mane manamAM prazna thayo ke ApaNe UMghatA hoIe te daramiyAna pAMcadasa miniTa mATe paNa jo sUrya kSitijanI nIce jaIne pAcho upara AvI jAya to khabara paNa na paDe. jAgIe ja chIe to sUryanA paribhramaNane najare nihALIe. e mATe nizAnI rAkhavI paDe, nahi to badhuM sarakhuM lAge. AsapAsanAM makAno para paDatA ane badalAtA paDachAyA meM dhyAnamAM rAkhyA. sUrya to vAdaLAMo pAchaLa DhaMkAyelo ja hato. rUmanI bArImAMthI to najara rahetI hatI, paNa thoDI thoDI vAre rUmanI bahAra koriDoramAM jaI AkAzadarzana karI leto. avalokana karatAM jaNAyuM ke sUrya ApaNI jamaNI bAjuthI DAbI bAju - AdakSiNa (Clockwise) AkAzamAM jhaDapathI paribhramaNa karyA kare che. amuka samaye te kSitijathI 40-45 DigrI jeTalo UMce Ave che ane amuka samaye te 25-30 DigrI jeTalo nIce Utare che. 73 divasa sudhI satata e A rIte AkAzamAM cakarAvA lIdhA kare che. e vakhate ahIM pUrva dizA kaI ane pazcima kaI te khabara na paDe. kaMpAsathI
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________________ 11o pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 uttara dizAnI khabara paDe to bIjI dizAo paNa jANI zakAya. caMdra ke tArAo to ATalA divasa adRzya. thoDI UMgha laI savAre UThIne sajja thaI ame hoTelanI resTorAMmAM cA-nAstA mATe beThA. pAchaLathI veiTare hiMdImAM pUchuyuM, "sara, tame cA lezo ke kaoNphI ?' amane Azcarya thayuM. ahIM hAmaraphesTamAM vaLI ApaNane hiMdImAM pUchanAra koNa che ? ame pAchaLa joyuM to cha phUTa UMco, gherA ghauMvarNo, sapheda zarTamenTa tathA kALuM jAkITa ane kALI bo-TAI paherelo yuvAna sasmita Ubho hato. ame AnaMdAzcarya sAthe pUchyuM, tame ahIM kevI rIte ? bhAratamAM kyAMthI Avo cho ?' nahi, huM bhAratIya nathI, zrIlaMkAno vatanI chuM.' ema ? paNa tame hiMdI sArI bolo cho.' hAjI, kAraNa ke ahIM roja navA navA pravAsIo sAthe emanI bhASAmAM bolavAnuM mane game che. huM ATha bhASAmAM vAtacIta karI zakuM chuM. mahAvaro thaI gayo ema? paNa ahIM TheTha uttara dhruvanA pradezamAM tame zA mATe AvyA ?' ame ahIM AvIne vasyA chIe. naoNrvenI sarakAranI zrIlaMkAnA loko mATenI udAra nItine kAraNe amArA dezanA seMkaDo loko kAyamI vasavATa mATe naoNrvemAM AvyA che. mane ane mArAM patnIne nokarI maLI eTale ahIM sthAyI thayAM chIe.' tamane game che ahIM ?" hAsto, ame badhI rIte sukhI chIe. zrIlaMkAmAM ame jhUMpaDImAM rahetAM, bekAra hatA ane bhUkhe maratAM hatAM. ahIM AvyA pachI amAruM jIvana sudharI gayuM. ahIMnA havAmAna ane jIvanazailIthI ame TevAI gayAM chIe. amArAM bALako ahIMnI zALAmAM bhaNe che. naoNrvenA loko bahu bhalA ane mAyALu che. ahIM raMgabheda jevuM nathI. eTale to ame naoNrvenAM nAgarika thaI gayAM chIe.' veiTaranI vAta sAMbhaLI amane naoNrve mATe mAna thayuM. vasati-vinimayanI samasyAo game teTalI hoya to paNa vyaktigata dhoraNe dezAMtara to thatuM ja rahevAnuM. hAmaraphesTanI ja vAta karIe to keTalAka dAyakA pahelAM ahIMnI ja eka yuvatI eka amerikana pravAsInA premamAM paDI, amerikA jaIne paraNI ane tyAM ene thayelo eka dIkaro eTalo tejasvI hato ane moTo thaI rAjakAraNamAM eTalo AgaLa vadhyo hato ke amerikAe naoNrve khAtenA elacI tarIke enI nimaNUka karI hatI. eNe naoNrvemAM AvIne potAnA mosALa hAmaraphesTane eka phuvArAnI bheTa ApI hatI, je ahIM eka vistAramAM Aje paNa joI zakAya che.
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________________ hAmaraphesTa 111 cA-nAsto karI ame pAse AvelI 'sAlena' nAmanI TekarI para jaI AvyA. tyAMthI nIce nihALatAM hAma2phesTa nagara ane dUra sudhInA samudranuM vadhu vyApaka darzana thAya che. thoDuM pha2I, bapore bhojana laI ame rUmamAM ArAma karyo. enI jarUra hatI, kAraNa ke AgalI rAtano ujAgaro hato ane have naoNrtha kepa javA-AvavAmAM AkhI rAtanuM jAgaraNa thavAnuM hatuM. sAMje samaya thavA Avyo eTale ame taiyAra thayA. hoTelanI risepzanisTa yuvatIe kahyuM hatuM ke bahAra rastAno DhALa pUro thAya che tyAM ja DAbI bAju samudrakinAre paeNsenja2 Tarminala che. tyAMthI sTImara UpaDe che. hoTelathI pAMca miniTamAM cAlatA tyAM pahoMcI javAya che. Ama chatAM amArI Teva mujaba aDadhA kalAka pahelAM ame tyAM pahoMcI gayA. tyAM musApharo mATe eka nAno veiTiMga rUma hato emAM ame beThA. vIseka miniTa ame rAha joI. paNa te daramiyAna na koI bIjA musApharo AvyA hatA ke na sTImara AvavAnI dariyAmAM koI eMdhANI najare paDI. amane thayuM ke jarUra kaMIka gerasamaja thaI hovI joIe. bahAra jaIne tapAsa karIe, paNa dariyAkinAre rastA para koI hoya to ne ? ghaNe dUra eka sTImara UbhI hatI. tyAM jaIne tapAsa ka2vAnuM vicAryuM. evAmAM dhodhamAra varasAda paDyo. tarata varasAdI ovarakoTa ane TopI caDAvI dIdhAM. thoDeka cAlyA tyAM rastAnI jamaNI bAju eka sajjana emanA makAnamAM UbhA hatA. emane pUchavA emanA kaMpAunDanA daravAjA pAse pahoMcIe tyAM to eka moTo alpeziyana kUtaro bhasato dhasato amArA upara AvI pahoMcyo. sadbhAgye e sAMkaLe bAMdhelo hato ane mAlikanA izAre tarata zAnta thaI besI gayo. pUchatAM e sajjane kahyuM ke, 'A Tarminala parathI bIjI sTImaro UpaDe che. dUra UbhI che e sTImara naoNrtha kepanI che.' lagabhaga aDadhA kilomITaranA aMtare te UbhI hatI. varasatA varasAdamAM ame jhaDapathI paga upADyA. pahoMcIne TikiTa batAvI sTImaramAM dAkhala thayA ke tarata bhUMgaLuM vagADI, laMgara upADI e cAlavA lAgI. amane hAza thaI. beThaka para beThA pachI amArA zvAsa heThA beThA. nasIbadAra ke sTImara pakaDI zakAI. eka miniTano pharaka paDyo hota to naoNrtha kepa jovAnuM gumAvata. hAmaraphesTamAM zIkhavA maLyuM ke ajANyA pradezanA pravAsamAM koI eka mANase ApelI mAhitI para saMpUrNa AdhAra rAkhavo nahi.
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________________ 18 northa kepa aNadIThelI bhoma para yauvana mAMDe AMkha' ema kavi meghANIe gAyuM che te keTaluM yathArtha che ! khamIravaMtA sAhasikone navI navI bhomakA khUMdavAnuM mana thayA vagara rahe nahi. dharatImAM evuM koI gUDha cuMbakIya tattva che ke je mANasanA caraNane kheMcI jAya che. bIjuM koI prayojana na hoya to paNa mANasa kevaLa kautukathI potAne mATe navA evA pradeza tarapha cAlato rahe che. yuropanI uttare asahya ThaMDA pradezamAM dharatIno cheDo kyAM Avyo che e zodhavAnI, padAkrAnta karavAnI laganI keTalA badhA zodhasapharIone lAgI hatI! jyAMthI have page cAlIne AgaLa vadhavAnuM zakya nathI tyAM AvIne mANasa Ubho rahe che. A cheDo naoNrvemAM, uttara dhruvapradezamAM Avelo che. enuM bhaugolika mApa che 71deg 10' 21". ene naoNrtha kepa (North Cape - Nordkapp) kahe che. kepa eTale bhUzira, samudramAM dharatIno phAMTo. ahIMthI have aphATa uttara dhruva samudra Avelo che. mANasa jyAre potAnuM nagara choDIne dUra videzamAM vase che tyAre vatana ane videza vacce enuM haiyuM hIMcakatuM rahe che. paraMtu pachIthI enI saMtati mATe videza e ja vatana banI jAya che. tyAM jIvana game teTaluM vikaTa hoya to paNa dharatImAtA sAthe enI AtmIyatA baMdhAI jAya che. eTale ja AvA asahya pradezomAM mANaso kema vase che enuM kAraNa zodhavA javuM nahi paDe. vIjaLI ane anya sAdhanasagavaDavALA AjanA yugamAM ziyALAmAM zUnyanI nIce trIsa-cAlIsa DigrIvALA A pradezamAM kAyamI vasavATa karavAnuM bahu kaThina nathI, paNa jyAre evAM sAdhanasagavaDa nahotAM ane astitvane TakAvI rAkhavAnuM paNa jyAM kaparuM hatuM evA A pradezamAM, purAtattvavidoe khodakAma karIne meLavelA avazeSone AdhAre jaNAyuM che Azare cha hajAra varSa pUrve ahIMnA judA judA vistAromAM mAnava-vasAhata hatI. dharatInA koI eka cheDAnuM asAmAnya lakSaNa na hoya to paNa evo cheDo pote ja eka asAmAnya lakSaNa che ke jethI tyAM sudhI pahoMcavAnuM lokone AkarSaNa rahe che, paraMtu northa kepanI to potAnI bhaugolika AkRti ja eTalI vilakSaNa che ke eka vakhata joyA pachInuM enuM vismaraNa thAya nahi. vaLI unALAmAM to A madhyarAtrie sUrya (sUryodaya nahi, sUrya to ahIM covIse kalAka AkAzamAM hoya che)no -- Midnight
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________________ northa kepa Sunno pradeza gaNAya eTale rojanA seMkaDo pravAsIo e jovA Ave che. bhUtakALamAM jyAre pravAsa kaparo hato tyAre keTalAya khaDatala zodhapharIone kharAba havAmAnane kAraNe potAno pravAsa adhavaccethI paDato mUkavA paDyo hato. Aje sagavaDo vadhatA nevuM varSanAM DosA-DosI paNa vhIlacaeNramAM naoNrtha kepa javA lAgyAM che. grISma RtumAM naoNrvenI uttare AvelA chevADAnA nagara hAmaraphesTathI northa kepa javA mATe roja sTImaro UpaDe che. pravAsIone naoNrtha kepa batAvI pAchA laI Ave che. AkhI rAtano e kAryakrama hoya che; paraMtu rAta eTale sUryaprakAzavALI ajavALI rAta. hAmaraphesTathI ame kaTokaTa samaye sTImara pakaDI hatI. tyAre varasAda eTalo jorathI paDato hato ane AkAza evuM gherAyuM hatuM ke amane thayuM ke naoNrtha kepamAM sUryaprakAza nihALavAnuM amArA bhAgyamAM nahi hoya. paNa ahIMnAM vAdaLAM adhIrAM bahu. ghaDIkamAM kyAMya bhAgI gayAM. rahI nAnI nAnI vAdaLIo. sTImara AgaLa vadhatAM sUryaprakAza relAyo. jo AvuM ja vAtAvaraNa rahe to madharAte sUryanAM jarUra darzana thaze evI amane AzA baMdhAI. A sTImaranI saphara yAda rahI jAya evI hatI. baMne bAju kAcanI moTI moTI bArIomAMthI bahAranuM dazya barAbara dekhAtuM. baMne bAju nAnAmoTA DuMgaro AvatA. koI koIne mAthe haju paNa barapha rahyo hato. kalAkanI saphara pachI amane eka sthaLe utAravAmAM AvyA. tyAM amArA mATe baso taiyAra hatI. | northa kepa je TApu para Avyo che enuM nAma che mAgaroyo. thoDA caDhANa pachI upara TheTha naoNrtha kepa sudhI sapATa pradeza (Plateau - pleTo) che. DuMgaranI dhAre dhAre rasto upara jAya che ane caDhANa pachI sapATa pradezamAM rasto vaccethI pasAra thAya che. paryAvaraNa jALavI rAkhavA mATe basano tetrIsa kilomITara jeTalo rasto kAco ja rAkhavAmAM Avyo che. upara jaIne jotAM cArebAju khulluM AkAza, kSaNe kSaNe badalAtA raMgo sAthe dekhAya che. A nirjana pradezamAM eka paNa vRkSa nathI, are, lIlA ghAsanuM taNakhaluM paNa nathI. jANe caMdranI sapATI para hoIe evuM lAge. basamAM amArI gAiDa yuvatIe naoNrtha kepanA itihAsanI thoDIka rasika vAto kahI. naoNrveno uttarano A bhAga phinamArka tarIke oLakhAya che. Ama to A pradeza ghaNo dUra kahevAya ane DuMgaro tathA khINone lIdhe ghaNo vikaTa paNa kharo, paNa samudra mArge ahIM pahoMcavAnuM eTaluM durgama tyAre nahotuM. bahu prAcIna samayathI A bAju mAnava-vasavATa rahyA karyo che, kAraNa ke ahIM samudramAM nIce garama pANIno pravAha (Wam Gulf Stream) che. eTale jIvananirvAha mATe lokone ahIM bAremAsa sAmagrI maLI rahe che.
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 naoNrve, svIDana, phinalaeNnDa ane raziyAnA uttara pradezamAM vividha AdivAsI jAtio vaselI che. emAM paNa koI eka ja jAtimAM pazupAlana karanAra ane mAchImArI karanAra lokonI raheNIkaraNImAM pha2ka che. A badhI jAtio - vizeSata: naoNrve-svIDananI jAtio norDika (Nordic)tarIke oLakhAya che. hajAreka varSa pahelAM A pradezanA vAikiMga tarIke jANItA lokonuM dariyAI prabhutva ghaNuM hatuM. naukAvidyAmAM kuzala evA A loko jabarA, sAhasika, mahattvAkAMkSI ane kalAnA zokhIna hatA. keTalAka luccA, anItimaya, Akramaka ane ghAtakI paNa hatA. mAravuM ane ma2vuM emane mATe sahaja hatuM. naoNrvenI pazcimano samudra eTale jANe emanA bApAnuM rAjya. ajANyA koI paNa vahANane teo lUMTI letA. teo dariyAmAM cAMciyAgIrI karatA ane kinArA paranAM gAmomAM jaIne lUMTaphATa calAvatA. jUnA vakhatamAM naoNrtha kepa pAse be kaptAno potapotAnAM saDhavALAM vahANamAM so so khalAsIono kAphalo laIne nIkaLatA. ekanuM nAma hatuM huMDa. te byArakoya jAtino hato. bIjAnuM nAma hatuM kArle, te leMgoya jAtino hato. baMne jigarajAna dosta hatA. sAthe vahANa haMkAratA, sAthe vepA2 ka2vA jatA ane sAthe lUMTa paNa calAvatA. teo lUMTelo mAlasAmAna vecatA ane puSkaLa nANAM kamAtA. 114 eka vakhata teo byAramI nAmanA gAmamAM lUMTa calAvIne ghaNI vastuo uThAvI lAvyA. emAM eka devaLanuM cAMdInuM bahu moTuM vAsaNa paNa hatuM. bIjI badhI vastuo to temaNe aDadhI aDadhI karIne vaheMcI lIdhI, paNa cAMdInA kalAtmaka vAsaNanI samasyA UbhI thaI. baMnene te gamatI hatI ane rAkhavI hatI. emAMthI jhaghaDo thayo. chevaTe nakkI karyuM ke baMnee dariyAkinAre retImAM potAnI jAtinA rivAja pramANe talavAra vaDe dvandvayuddha karavuM ane je jIte te vAsaNa laI jAya. te pramANe baMne sajja thayA. baMnemAM huMDa jabaro hato. eNe huMkAra sAthe kahyuM, 'kArlo dosta ! Aje to tane amArI byA2koya jAtinA khamIrano paricaya thaze.' ema karatAM talavArayuddha zarU thayuM. baMnene IjA thaI. paNa pachI huMDe kArlone eTalo badho ghAyala karI nAkhyo ke te tyAM ja DhaLIne mRtyu pAmyo. huMDe cAMdInuM vAsaNa laI lIdhuM. be dilojAna dostanI dostI cAMdInA eka vAsaNane khAtara karuNAMtikAmAM pariNamI. jUnA vakhatamAM A mArgaroyA TApumAM Tyunsa nAmanA gAmamAM be bhAIo rahetA hatA. teo mAchalI pakaDavAno vyavasAya karatA hatA. eka divasa dariyAmAM evuM bhayaMkara vAvAjhoDuM thayuM ke teo bhayabhIta thaI gayA. potAnuM vahANa cokkasa DUbI jaze ane teo baMne mRtyu pAmaze evo Dara lAgyo. have bIjo koI upAya nahoto. eTale teoe Izvarane prArthanA karI. prArthanA karatAM karatAM teo atyaMta bhAvamAM
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________________ northa kepa 115 AvI gayA ane gaLagaLA sAde bolyA, "he Izvara ! Aje jo tuM amane bacAvI leze to ame pakaDelI A mAchalIonA vajana jeTalI cAMdInI eka moTI mAchalI. banAvIne devaLamAM tane arpaNa karIzuM.' sadbhAgye jANe Izvare temanI prArthanA sAMbhaLI hoya tema vAvAjhoDuM tarata zAnta paDI gayuM ane teo bacI gayA. ghare AvIne teoe mAchalInuM vajana karI, potAnA saMkalpa pramANe cAMdInI moTI mAchalI karAvI ane devaLamAM vidhipUrvaka arpaNa karI. e jamAnAmAM eka jAtinA loko bIjI jAti para AkramaNa karI lUMTaphATa calAvatA. eka vakhata raziyAnI uttarethI yUDa jAtinA pacAseka lUMTArA phinamArka para caDI AvyA. Tyunsa gAmanA A be bhAIoe, potAnA sAthIdAro sAthe bahAdurIpUrvaka lUMTArAone mArI haThAvyA. mArAmArImAM bAvIsa jeTalA rDa mAryA gayA. enuM vera levA moTI saMkhyAmAM grUDa lUMTArAo nAtAlanA tahevAromAM Tyunsa nagara para tUTI paDyA. moTI laDAI thaI. emAM baMne bhAIo mAryA gayA. sthUDa lUMTArAo bIjI ghaNI sAmagrI sAthe devaLamAMthI cAMdInI mAchalI paNa upADIne raziyA laI gayA. teoe moskonA eka devaLamAM e mAchalI laTakAvI (have A mAchalI moskonA saMgrahAlayamAM che). koIke gAiDane prazna karyo ke "naoNrtha kepa' evuM nAma koNe pahelavaheluM ApyuM? eNe kahyuM ke navamI sadImAM uttara naoNrvemAM eka saradAra thaI gayo. enuM nAma "oTara." eNe A bAjuno dariyo kheDyo hato. eka vakhata te iMglenDa gayo tyAre enI romAMcaka vAto sAMbhaLavAnI rAjA olphaDane icchA thaI. rAjadarabAramAM ene nimaMtraNa maLyuM. eNe rAjAne potAnA anubhavo kahI saMbhaLAvyA. rAjAe e badhA lakhAvI lIdhA. ane potAnA saMgrahamAM mUkyA (have e briTiza myujhiyamamAM che). eNe e vakhate "naoNrtha kepa' zabda prayojyo hato ane enuM varNana karyuM hatuM. ogaNIsamI sadImAM amerikana kavi henrI laoNgapheloe "The Discoverer of North Capc' nAmanA potAnA kAvyamAM A oTarano nirdeza karyo che. gAiDe AgaLa calAvyuM : I. sa.nA soLamA saikAmAM porTugala ane spene AphrikAnA kinAre thaI eziyAnA dezomAM potAnAM saMsthAno sthApyAM hatAM, tyAre teonI sAthe saMgharSamAM na avAya e mATe iMglenDe uttarano dariyAI mArga zodhavAnA prayAso cAlu karyA. tyAre northa kepa pAsenA A samudramAM vahANonI avarajavara bahu vadhI gaI hatI. e badhAMno bahu romAMcaka itihAsa che. pachI to DenmArka paNa emAM joDAyuM hatuM. sara hyuja vilobI, ricarDa cAnselara, sTIphana baro, viliyama bara, jana sTepharDa, beranTasa vagere dariyAkheDu nAyakoe jAnanA jokhame sapharo karI hatI. e vakhate kharAba havAmAnanuM jokhama to kharuM, paNa eka nAmacIna cAMciyA menDonsAnuM
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________________ 119 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 jokhama paNa rahetuM. enuM nAma paDe ane khalAsIo dhrujatA. chevaTe DenmArka bIDuM jhaDapyuM. majabUta moTA vahANamAM kAbela nAviko sAthe menDonsAno pIcho pakaDyo. ghaNI mahenate, dariyAI bhAgAbhAgImAM menDonsA pakaDAyo. lokhaMDanI sAMkaLomAM bAMdhIne ene kopanahegana lAvavAmAM Avyo ane tyAM rAjA cArlsa cothAnI hAjarImAM eno ziraccheda karavAmAM Avyo. menDonsAnI vidAya pachI cAMciyAgIrInuM jokhama ghaNuM haLavuM thayuM. pachI to rAjA cArlsa pote paNa eka vahANamAM khalAsIone ane amaladArone laIne northa kepa sudhI jaI Avyo hato. samudramArge northa kepa sudhI javAno vyavahAra to bahu jUno hato. paraMtu enI vAto sAMbhaLIne jamInamArge javAnA koDa paNa keTalAkane jAgyA hatA. vidhinI vakratA kevI che ke kevaLa pravAsa khAtara pravAsa karanArA sattaramA-aDhAramA saikAnA AraMbhanA be dhuraMdhara pravAsIo northa kepa gupta veze AvyA hatA. vastuta: emane gupta veze AvavuM paDyuM hatuM. eka hatA iTAlInA devaLanA pAdarI phrAnsisko negrI ane bIjA hatA phrAnsanA yuvarAja lUI philipa. negrI romana ketholika dharmanA hatA. naoNrvemAM proTesTanTa dharma paLAto hato. tyAM evo kAyado hato ke je koI romana ketholika hoya ke te dharma pALato hoya to ene mRtyudaMDanI sajA pharamAvavAmAM AvatI. negrIne northa kepa jovAnI tIvra jhaMkhanA hatI, paNa mRtyudaMDano bhaya hato eTale teo vezapalaTo karIne A bAju AvyA hatA. aDhAramA saikAmAM phrAnsamAM jyAre krAnti thaI ane rAjA lUIne phAMsIe laTakAvavAmAM AvyA tyAre yuvarAja philipa phrAnsamAMthI bhAgI chUTyA ane guptaveze eka sthaLethI bIje sthaLe pharatA hatA. samaya pasAra karavA ane navuM navuM jovA teo A dUranA ajANyA sthaLe AvyA hatA ke jyAM temane koI oLakhI na jAya. cAlIsa varSanA phrAnsasko negrI bahu khaDatala hatA. eka lokhaMDI puruSa jevA hatA. rakhaDatA rakhaDatA teo ekalA AvyA hatA. temane koI sAthIdAra nahoto. sAthIdAra joIto nahoto ke jethI potAnI guptatA pragaTa thaI jAya. koI pUche ke 'tamArI sAthe koI bhAIbaMdha kema nathI ?' to eno javAba emanI pAse taiyAra hato : "mAro joDIdAra A vikaTa pravAsamAM mAMdo paDe to mAre zuM karavuM ? huM enI cAkarI karavA rokAuM to mAre AgaLano pravAsa, e sAjo thAya tyAM sudhI, aTakAvI devo paDe. jo huM na rokAu ane AgaLa jAuM to huM niSphara ane bevaphA gaNAuM. mATe joDIdAra na hoya e ja mAre mATe sArI vAta che. mane potAne jo kaMI thAya to tenI ciMtA nathI, kAraNa ke mAre AgaLapAchaLa koI che nahi." negrI page cAlIne, ghoDA upara ke boTamAM besIne AgaLa vadhatA. teo potAnI DAyarI rAkhatA. pote citrakAra hatA eTale DAyarImAM citro ane nakazA doratA. emane
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________________ 19) naoNrtha kepa bhASAno ane paisAno prazna naDato. paNa eno ukela teo zodhI kADhatA. keTalIya vAra AgaLa rasto na hoya ke na jaDato hoya to pAchA pharavuM paDatuM. paNa ethI teo nirAza thatA nahi. samayanuM emane koI baMdhana nahotuM. gharethI nIkaLyA pachI be varSe negrI naoNrtha kepa pahoMcyA hatA. pahoMcatAM ja emaNe potAnI DAyarImAM lakhyuM, "hAza.... chevaTe huM naoNrtha kepa AvI pahoMcyo chuM. dharatIno A sauthI durano cheDo che. A pradeza vize jovA-jANavAnI mArI varSonI tRSA Aje saMtRpta thaI che. mAruM svapna sArthaka thayuM che. ahIMthI huM have pAcho pharIza. IzvaranI marajI haze to huM jIvato mAre vatana pahoMcI jaIza.' ane negrI sahIsalAmata potAne vatana pahoMcI gayA. emanI sacavAyelI DAyarIe e kALanA emanA anubhavonI ghaNI sabhara mAhitI saMgharI rAkhI che. bAvIsa varSanA rAja kumAra philipe, potAnA be aMgata madadanIzo sAthe, barachaTa kapaDAM dhAraNa karI, pote sviTjharalenDanA vatanI che ane A pradezano abhyAsa karavA AvyA che evo dekhAva karyo hato. emaNe potAnuM nAma "myulara' rAkhuM hatuM. teo bahu dekhAvaDA hatA eTale A pradezanA mahilAvargamAM AkarSaNanuM kendra banI gayA hatA. dhImI gatie cAlatI amArI basa naoNrtha kepa para AvI pahoMcI. ame UtarIe eTalI vAramAM to AkAza gherAM vAdaLAMthI gherAI gayuM. have sUryaprakAza jovA maLaze ke kema te prazna thayo. paNa ghaDiyALamAM haju rAtanA agiyAra vAgyA hatA. sabhAgya hoya to vAdaLAMno dhasAro ghaTI paNa jAya. sAme ja vizALa hola hato. emAM ame dAkhala thayA. norvenI sarakAre karoDonA kharce pravAsIo mATe DuMgaranI Toca paranI sapATa jagyAmAM A haoNla baMdhAvyo che, jethI bahAranI ThaMDI, varasAda vagerethI bacI zakAya. jUnA vakhatamAM sTImara nIce UbhI rahetI ane pravAsIo hajAra pagathiyAM caDIne upara AvatAM. varasAda ke barapha paDe to koI rakSaNa nahotuM. azakta pravAsIo sTImaramAM ja besI rahetA (gaI sadImAM ApaNA jagatapravAsI kAlubhAI baziyA A rIte ja ahIM AvelA enuM smaraNa thayuM.) A vizALa haoNlamAM cAraso-pAMcasothI vadhu mANaso hoya to paNa giradI jevuM na lAge. emAM resTorAM che, suveninI dukAno che, TeliphonanI sagavaDa che, posTaoNphisa che, thiyeTara che, zaucAlaya che, jeone rAta rokAvuM hoya temane mATe rUmonI sagavaDa che. A eka satata jAgatuM kendra che. sTAphanI pharaja badalAya, paNa kendra covIse kalAka gAjatuM rahe, satata aDhI mahinA sudhI. kendramAM ame marajI mujaba pharyA. svajanone sacitra posTakArDa lakhyAM ke jenA
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________________ 118 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 upara naoNrtha kepano TapAlano sikko mArI ApavAmAM Ave che. pachI ame eka vizALa suzobhita bhoMyarA (Tunnel) vATe nIce cogAnamAM gayA. A bhoMyarAmAM thAilenDanA mahArAjAe 1906mAM naoNrtha kepanI mulAkAta lIdhelI enI yAdagIrIrUpe ApelI kImatI bheTavastuo eka zo-kesamAM rAkhavAmAM AvI che. ame cogAnamAM pahoMcyA. tyAM ghaNA badhA pravAsIo hatA. A cogAnamAM kaTheDA pAse UbhA rahI nIce samudranuM darzana karI zakAya che. hajAra phUTa UMcA A khaDakanI AkRti atyaMta vilakSaNa che. enI UMcAI DhALavALI nathI paNa sIdhI laTakatI dorI jevI che. samudramAM thoDe dUrathI joIe to sIdho, UMco, jADo ane bhUkharA raMgano khaDaka, jANe airAvata hAthIe pANImAM paga mUkyo hoya evo lAge. eTale ja dariyAkheDuo mATe e mazahUra nizAnI banelo che, jANe te bhomiyAnI garaja sAre che. cogAnanA eka cheDe oLakha-nizAnI tarIke dhAtunI pAipano vizALa goLo banAvIne goThavavAmAM Avyo che, jethI northa kepane tarata oLakhI zakAya. ghaNA sahelANIo tyAM UbhA rahI phoTA paDAve che. northa kepa gayAnI e sAbitIrUpa yAdagIrI che. A khaDaka parathI pagathiyAM UtarI nIce samudranI sapATI sudhI jaI zakAya che. jUnA vakhatamAM A khaDaka pAse sTImara AvIne UbhI rahetI tyAre upara javA mATe pagathiyAM karavAmAM AvyAM hatAM. hajAra pagathiyAMnuM caDhANa bahu kaparuM hatuM, paraMtu upara pahoMcyA pachI je dazya jovA maLatuM ethI parizrama vasUla lAgato. amArI gAiDa yuvatIe kahyuM ke jUnA vakhatamAM eka sthAnika mANasa ahIM nIce lAkaDIo laIne Avato ane pravAsIone lAkaDI vecato. UtaryA pachI ghaNA pravAsIo lAkaDI pAchI mUkIne jatA. Ama lAkaDInA vepAramAM ja e mANasa dhanavAna banI gayo. lAkaDIe enA bhAgyane palaTAvI nAkhyuM hatuM. bhAgya hoya to kevAM kAma sUjhI Ave che ! madhyarAtri cAlu thaI gaI hatI. vAtAvaraNamAM ajavALuM hatuM, paNa sUryaprakAza nihALavA maLato nahoto. ema kahevAyuM ke samagra Rtu daramiyAna nirabhra khullo sUrya kadAca koIne jovA maLe to maLe. paNa nAnI nAnI vAdaLIo pAchaLa rahelo sUrya jovA maLe to paNa moTuM bhAgya gaNAya. ahIM vAdaLAMono dhasAro niraMtara rahe che. ame rAha jotA hatA eTalAmAM to joradAra varasAda jhApaTyo. badhA doDIne holamAM pahoMcI gayA. amArI pAse samaya hato eTale amArA kAryakrama mujaba ame 'northa kepa' vizenuM calacitra jovA thiyeTaramAM beThA. A eka adbhuta anubhava che. ApaNe jANe helikaoNpTaramAM beThA hoIe evuM lAge. sAhasI dRzyo Ave to sAkSAt anubhavatA hoIe evuM lAge ane chAtImAM gabharATa paNa thAya. jAte na jaI zakIe ane na joI zakIe evAM evAM dRzyo joIne Azcaryamugdha thaI javAya.
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________________ naoNrtha kepa 119 calacitra joIne ame bahAranA bhAgamAM AvyA. tyAM eka bAju dharatInAM choruM' (Children of the Earth) nAmanuM smAraka racavAmAM AvyuM che. 1989mAM eka lekhakane bALako mATe kazuMka karavAno vicAra Avyo. AkhI duniyAmAM judA judA dezomAMthI sAta tejasvI bALakone pasaMda karavAmAM AvyAM. teone ahIM bolAvyAM. ahIMnI mATImAMthI teoe potAne AvaDe evI AkRti banAvI. enA phoTA laI, vistRta karI te pramANe kAMsAmAM DhALIne AkRtio banAvavAmAM AvI ane te vartuLAkAra phremamAM ahIM UbhI karavAmAM AvI che. sAthe mA ane bALakanI eka AkRti paNa rAkhavAmAM AvI che. A smAraka prakhyAta thaI gayuM che. A saMsthA taraphathI bALakonA kalyANa mATe kArya karanArAone pAritoSika apAya che. have amAre basamAM besavAno samaya thavA Avyo hato. ame basa tarapha cAlatA hatA tyAM ekAeka doDAdoDI thaI, AnaMdanI ciciyArIo thaI. ame pAchaLa joyuM to vAdaLI pAchaLa sUrya prakAzavA lAgyo hato. ame paNa haoNlamAM thaIne cogAnamAM pahoMcyA. sarasa sUryadarzana thayuM. tyAre ghaDiyALamAM rAtanA aDhI vAgyA hatA. sUryakiraNonuM ame AkaMTha pAna karyuM. amAre khasavuM nahotuM paNa sUryanArAyaNe paDadA pAchaLa DhaMkAI amane vidAya ApI dIdhI. amane thayuM ke sUrya to eno e ja, ApaNe tyAM AkhuM varSa dhomadhakhato hoya mATe enI kiMmata ochI ane ahIM thoDIka kSaNo mATe prakAza relAve e mATe loko gAMDAnI jema nAce ! prakRtimAM keTaluM badhuM sAmyavaiSamya che ! basamAM besI ame sTImara para AvI pahoMcyA. bIjI keTalIka baso paNa AvI pahoMcI. vizALa sTImaramAM yatheccha besavAnuM hatuM. ame uparanA mALe sTImaranI dizAmAM sAme samudradarzana thAya e rIte beThA. sTImara UpaDyA pachI thoDI vAre badhAne kaoNphI ApavAmAM AvI. eka karmacArI yuvatI khAlI kaparakAbI laI javAnuM kAma karatI hatI. amArI beThaka pAsenI jagyAmAMthI te pasAra thatI hatI. eka phero karIne e jhaDapathI pAchI AvI. eNe TremAM eka upara eka ema dasabAra kapa goThavyA. mArAthI sahaja rIte bolAI gayuM, "bahena, thoDA ochA kapa laI eka phero vadhu karo to ! koI vakhata kapa paDI jAya." eNe sasmita kahyuM, "sara, ema nahi thAya. A mAro rojano mahAvaro che.' enA AtmavizvAsathI AnaMda thayo. paNa pachInA phere enA badhA kapa dhaDa daIne nIce paDyA. keTalAka phUTyA. keTalAka pravAsIo upara bacelI kaoNphInA chAMTA UDyA. amane paNa eno lAbha maLyo. yuvatI zaramiMdI banI gaI. eNe kahyuM, "sara, tamArI salAha sAcI hatI.' bIjA karmacArIe phaTAphaTa sAphasUphI karI nAkhI ane jANe kazuM ja banyuM nathI evuM vAtAvaraNa thaI gayuM. hAmaraphesTa AvatAM ame amArI hoTelamAM pahoMcI gayA.
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________________ 19 milpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka naisargika saundaryasamRddhithI sabhara evA dezomAM nyUjhIlaeNnDanuM sthAna mokhare che. nAnAmoTA saMkhyAbaMdha TApuo, sudIrgha samudrakinAro, bAre mAsa samazItoSNa AbohavA, hariyALAM khetaro ane khuzamijAjI prajAjanone kA2Ne nyUjhIlaeNnDamAM pravezatAM ja vAtAvaraNa uSmAbharyuM AvakAradAyaka lAge che. nyUjhIlaeNnDa bhaugolika vistAranI dRSTie jApAna jevaDo deza che, paraMtu jApAnamAM eTalA pradezamAM Azare agiyAra karoDa mANaso vase che, jyAre nyUjhIlaeNnDamAM phakta pAMtrIsa lAkha jeTalI vasati che. enA uparathI nyUjhIlaeNnDamAM jagyAnI mokaLAza keTalI badhI haze teno khyAla Avaze. eTale ja briTiza sAmrAjyano sUrya jyAre jhaLahaLato tyAre aneka briTiza nAgariko potAnuM zeSa nivRtta jIvana zAMtithI pasAra karavA iMglaeNnDa choDIne potAnA saMsthAna nyUjhIlaeNnDamAM AvIne vasatA hatA. emanA vaMzajo ane sthAnika AdivAsI jAtinA mAorI loko sumeLathI tyAM rahe che. atyaMta ramaNIya, zAMtipriya, AMtarika saMgharSarahita, anya dezo sAthe veravirodha vinAnA sukhI dezomAM nyUjhIlaeNnDanI gaNanA thAya che. garIbI, bekArI, gaMdakI, gunAkhorI, pradUSaNa vagerenuM pramANa tyAM nahivat che. eTale ja kivI nAmanA vilakSaNa pakSInA deza tarIke oLakhAtA nyUjhIlaeNnDa tarapha videzI pravAsIono dhasAro rahe che. amArI eka maMDaLIno pravAsa siMgApura, oNsTreliyA ane nyUjhIlaeNnDano goThavAyo hato. nyUjhIlaeNnDamAM vividha sthaLe pharIne ame enA dakSiNa TApumAM kvInsa TAunamAM AvyA hatA. ahIMthI have amAre haju paNa dakSiNe milpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa phUMka javAnuM hatuM. kvInsa TAuna hamaNAM hamaNAM 'banjI jaMpiMga' jevI sAhasika ramato mATe jANItuM thayuM che. banjI jaMpiMga eTale be page sthitisthApaka doraDuM bAMdhIne so-baso phUTa UMce pula uparathI evI rIte nIce paDatuM mUkavAnuM ke jethI pANIthI thoDA adhdhara rahevAya ane mAthuM bhaTakAya nahi. nIce paDIne UMdhe mAthe laTakyA pachI kUdanArane levA mATe boTa tarata AvI pahoMce che. dila dhaDakAvanAro A eka romAMcaka anubhava che. bandha jaMpiMga mATe amArI maMDaLImAMthI eTalAM badhAM yuvaka-yuvatIoe nAma noMdhAvyAM ke aDadhA jeTalA bAkI rahelA sabhyoe bIje divase milpharDa sAunDa jovAnuM jatuM karIne eka vadhu divasa kvInsa TAunamAM rokAvAnuM pasaMda karyuM.
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________________ milpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka 121 ame bIjA badhAe kvInsa TAunathI vahelI savAre nIkaLI milpharDa sAunDa tarapha prayANa karyuM. rastAmAM Ti Ano (TE ANAU - Te AnAu) nAmanA sthaLe kyorDalenDa' nAmanI hoTelamAM sAmAna mUkI, cA-nAsto karI ame AgaLa vadhyA. ahIM rastAnI banne bAju lIlAMchama ghAsiyAM khetaromAM hRSTapuSTa gheTAMo potapotAnA bAMdhelA vADAmAM laherathI caratAM hatAM. ahIM vacce vacce keTalAya mAIla sudhI koInuM ghara dekhAya nahi. A pradezamAM jamInanI ATalI badhI chUTa joIne ApaNane Azcarya thAya. AgaLa jatAM baMne bAju DuMgarAonI hAra AvI. moTAM moTAM vRkSo dekhAyAM. emAM UMcAM sIdhAM sUkAM poplara vRkSonI hAra hatI, to kyAMka hArabaMdha ugADelAM pAIna vRkSo hatAM. koIka koIka vizALa khetaramAM chevADe mAlikanuM nAnuM ghara hatuM, paNa koI bahAra haratuM pharatuM dekhAya nahi, kahyAgarAM gheTAMo mAlikano eTalo zrama bacAvatAM hatAM. ahIMnA rabArIo eTale zrImaMta vepArIo. beThAM beThAM ghaNuM kamAya. rastAmAM eka sthaLe amArI basa UbhI rAkhavAmAM AvI. e sthaLanuM nAma darpaNa sarovara' (Mirror Lake) che. basamAMthI bahAra nIkaLyA tyAre khabara paDI ke bahAra to sakhata ThaMDI hatI ane AchA dhummasa jevuM vAtAvaraNa hatuM. ene lIdhe bolatI vakhate darekanA moDhAmAMthI dhumADA nIkaLatA hatA. sigAreTa pIdhA vagara sigAreTanA jevA dhumADA kADhavAno AnaMda mANI zakAyo. thoDIvAra havA moDhAmAM rokI rAkhI gAla phulAvIne pachI ghaTTa dhumADAnI lAMbI sera paNa kADhI zakAya. A darpaNa sarovaranI viziSTatA e che enA svaccha, sthira pANImAM pAchaLanAM DuMgarAo, vRkSo, AkAza vagerenuM UMdhuM surekha pratibiMba eTaluM ramaNIya lAge che ke tyAMthI khasavAnuM mana na thAya. jalamAM ATaluM badhuM lAMbuM pahoLuM pratibiMba javalle ja jovA maLe. e jovA mATe gIca jhADImAM khAsa lAMbI keDI banAvelI che. mirara leka nihALI ame eka khINanA vizALa sapATa pradezamAM pravezyA. baMne bAju sUkA ghAsanAM medAno ane dUra DuMgaronI hAramALA hatI. tyAM milpharDa sAunDano rasto TUMko karavA mATe eka lAMbuM bogaduM karavAmAM AvyuM che. e homara TanalamAMthI ame pasAra thayA ke tyAM thoDI vAramAM milpharDa sAunDa AvI gayuM. mANasa ekalo jyAM saraLatAthI na jaI zake evAM ramaNIya pravAsasthaLonA pravAsa mATe pravAsa kaMpanIo vividha prakAranI sagavaDo UbhI kare che. milka sAunDanA baMdarethI moTI moTI sTImaro sahelANIone laIne sAunDanA pANImAM dhIre dhIre moTuM cakkara marAve che. aMgrejI "sAunDa' (sound) zabda viziSTa bhaugolika racanA mATe vaparAya che (ApaNA bhAratamAM AvA sAunDa nathI). prakRtinAM badhAM ja bhaugolika svarUpo mATe
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________________ 122 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 ApaNI pAse AgavA viziSTa zabdo nathI, kAraNa ke bhaugolika racanAonA prakAro aneka che. sAunDa zabda paNa judI judI racanAo mATe prayojAya che. ahIM sAunDa eTale samudrano eka nAno phAMTo parvatonI vacce amuka aMtara sudhI gayo hoya ane cheDe lagabhaga ardhavartuLAkAre aTakI gayo hoya. eTale ja sAunDane samudranA hAtha tarIke oLakhAvavAmAM Ave che, kAraNa ke hAthamAM cheDe Avato paMjo pahoLo hoya che. jyAM samudrakinAre parvatonI hAramALA hoya tyAM ja sAunDa hoI zake. sAunDa e kyorDa (girisamudra)no ja eka laghu prakAra che. emAM pANI mahAsAgara jevAM UMDAM na hoya ane ghUghavAtAM na hoya. nyUjhIlaeNnDamAM enA dakSiNa dvipamAM cArlsa sAunDa vagere ghaNA sAunDa che. emAM milpharDa sAunDa, DAuTaphula (Doubtful) sAunDa, jyaoNrja sAunDa, thaoNmpasana vagere vadhu prakhyAta che. DAuTaphula sAunDanuM nAma enA anizcita havAmAnane kAraNe paDyuM che. eTale ja sauthI vadhu sahelANIo milpharDa sAunDamAM javAnuM pasaMda kare che. vaLI, milpharDanA jaMgalamAM keDIe keDIe pagapALA janArA paNa hoya che. milpharDa baMdaramAM ame TikiTa laI 'milpharDa hevana' nAmanI sTImaramAM beThA. sTImara jatI vakhate DAbI bAjunA kinAre cAlavAnI hatI ane pAchA AvatAM jamaNI bAju. sTImara UpaDI eTale gAiDa yuvatIe mAikamAM mAhitI ApavAnuM zarU karyuM. eNe kahyuM ke ghaNA vaLAMkavALo milpharDa sAunDa soLa kilomITara lAMbo che. enI zodha I.sa. 1823mAM jaoNna grono nAmanA eka briTiza zodhasapharIe karI hatI. sIlano zikAra enI zokhanI pravRtti hatI. te sIlanI pAchaLa pAchaLa A pANImAM AvI caDyo ane eNe joyuM ke pote samudramAMthI A phlorDamAM bhUlamAM dAkhala thaI gayo che. cheDe AvatAM ene jaNAyuM ke A to sAunDanA prakArano kyorDa che. eNe A jagyAnuM nAma briTananA potAnA vatana milpharDa uparathI ApyuM hatuM. tyArathI A jagyA milpharDa sAunDa tarIke jANItI che. duniyAnAM keTalAMka atyaMta sohAmaNAM sthaLomAM milpharDa sAunDanI gaNanA thAya che. hajAro varSathI manuSyanA hastakSepa vinA A sthaLe potAnuM saundarya sAcavI rAkhyuM che. dhIre dhIre AgaLa vadhatI sTImaramAM amAre yatheccha besavAnuM hatuM, paraMtu manabhara anubhava to uparanA khullA DekamAM UbhA rahIne cArebAju jovAno hato. gAiDe kahyuM ke 'ApaNI jamaNI bAju pANImAM najara nAkhatA rahejo. ahIM samudramAM Dolphina ghaNI che, tame nasIbadAra hazo to pANI bahAra kUdatI jovA maLaze.' milpharDa sAunDamAM nAnA nAnA dhodha ghaNA che. moTA dhodhamAM bovena dhodha che. lagabhaga pAMcaso phUTa UMcethI enuM pANI dariyAmAM paDe che. kaptAne dhIme dhIme sTImarane dhodhanI najIka eTalI sarakAvI ke enA UDatA jalasIkomAM bhIMjAvuM game
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________________ milpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka 123 evuM hatuM. tyAMthI sIdhA UMce dhodhanAM darzana jhAjhI vAra sudhI karavAmAM Doka du:khavA Ave evuM hatuM. amArI sTImara AgaLa cAlI, mahattvanAM sthaLe thoDI vAra rokAtI ane gAiDa te vize mAhitI ApatI rahetI. eka sthaLe parvatanA paththaramAM paDelA ghasarakA batAvIne kahyuM ke A ghasarakA Aja kAlanA nathI. hajAra varSa jUnA che. bhUstarazAstrIo kahe che ke paMdaravIsa hajAra varSa pUrve A milpharDa sAunDa nahoto. ahIM parvato hatA ane enA uparathI himanadI (Glacier) sarakatI hatI. ene kAraNe AsapAsanA parvatone ghasAro lAgato gayo ane samayAntare enuM A sAunDamAM rUpAntara thayuM che. milpharDa sAunDamAM jovA maLatuM eka lAkSaNika sthaLa te "mAtra parvata che. A evI jagyA che ke jyAM AgaLa, sAunDanA samudramAM, sauthI vadhu, lagabhaga AThaso phUTa jeTaluM UMDANa che. A parvatanI evI viziSTatA che ke te pANImAMthI nIkaLIne jANe sIdho Ubho na thayo hoya ! paga pANImAM ane mANasa TaTTAra Ubho hoya evI AkRti A parvatanI che. AvA prakAranA parvatomAM A parvata duniyAmAM sauthI UMco, Azare cha hajAra phUTa UMco che. enuM nAma "mAIgre' (Maitre) pADavAmAM AvyuM che, kAraNa ke enuM zikhara khristI dharmaguru bizapanI TopI (eTale ke "mAIgre') jevuM che. sAunDanA samagra dazyamAM te kendrasthAne che ane prabhAvazALI che. soLa kilomITarano AphlAdaka jalavihAra karIne ame sAunDanA bIjA cheDe AvI pahoMcyA. ahIM eka kinArAnI jagyAne Deila paoNinTa kahe che. ahIM sAmasAmAM baMne kinAre parvato dekhAya che. eka bAju I.sa. 1800mAM bAMdhelI dIvAdAMDI che ke jethI jUnA vakhatamAM mahAsAgaramAM pasAra thatAM jahAjo bhUlamAM A sAMkaDI jalapaTTImAM dAkhala na thaI jAya. amArI sTImara sAunDamAMthI bahAra nIkaLI dakSiNa pesiphika mahAsAgaramAM dAkhala thaI. samudranA pANImAM sarahadI rekhAo dorI zakAtI nathI, eTale gAiDe kahyuM tyAre ja khabara paDI ke ame have mahAsAgaramAM chIe. sTImare eka moTuM cakkara lagAvyuM. sAunDanA kinArA dekhAtA baMdha thayA. cArebAju mahAsAgaranAM jaLa hiloLA letAM hatAM. vAtAvaraNa svaccha, svastha ane prasanna hatuM. Deka uparathI vartuLAkAra kSitijanAM, upara Abha ane nIce jalarAzinAM darzana eka Agavo anubhava karAvatAM hatAM. mahAsAgaramAMthI ame have sAunDamAM pAchA pharyA. sAsare AvelI rUDhicusta navoDhAnI jema pANI have zAnta ane saMyamita banyAM. sTImare DAbI bAjuno kinAro pakaDyo. eka jagyAe sTImara UbhI rahI. gAiDe eka khaDaka batAvIne kahyuM ke e sIla khaDaka' (Seal Rock) che. sIla ThaMDA pradezanuM dariyAI prANI che. te jaLacara che ane sthaLacara paNa che. te rAtre dariyAmAM UMDe sudhI jaI zikAra karatuM rahe che ane
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________________ 124 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 divasa daramiyAna vacce vacce bahAra AvI AvA khaDaka para ArAma kare che. sTImara UbhI rahI tyAM sudhI eka paNa sIla amane jovA na maLyuM. ame nirAza thayA. koIke majAka karI ke 'have bIjI vAra milpharDa sAunDa jovA AvIzuM tyAre sIla ane Dolphina beya jovA maLaze.' bIjAe gaMbhIratAthI kahyuM, 'jiMdagImAM ATale dUra AvavAnuM to thAya tyAre thAya. sIla ane Dolphina mATe paisA kharacavA enA karatAM bIjA koI sthaLano pravAsa na karIe ?' pAchA pharatAM gAiDe amane bIjAM keTalAMka sthaLa batAvyAM. eka jagyAe pANIthI be hajAra phUTa upara eka khaDaka laTakI rahelo che. sTopa vaoNca rAkhIne enA uparathI jo eka paththara choDavAmAM Ave to nIce pANImAM paDatAM ene soLa sekanDa lAge che. eka sthaLe sAunDano 'pembroka' nAmano UMcAmAM UMco parvata che. sADAcha hajAra phUTa UMco A parvata kAyama himAcchAdita rahe che. parvata parano baraphano thara savAso phUTa jeTalo jADo che. A tharanI nIcenA baraphane kyAreya ogaLavAno avasara sAMpaDyo nathI. sAMja paDatAM amArI sTImara baMdare pAchI pharI. zAnta, ramya sAunDamAM jalavihArano amAro anubhava smaraNIya banI rahyo. basamAM besI, homara Tanala pasAra karI ame amArI hoTela para AvI gayA. daramiyAna amArA bIjA grUpanA sabhyo paNa kvInsa TAunamAM 'banjI jaMpiMga' karIne AvI gayA. bhojanaveLAe saue potapotAnA anubhavonI vAto karI. milpharDa sAunDanAM eTalAM badhAM vakhANa thayAM ke teomAMnA keTalAkane thayuM ke banjI jaMpiMga na karyuM hota to sAruM. banjI jaMpiMganA badalAmAM temaNe milpharDa sAunDa gumAvyuM. temaNe potAno nirAzAjanaka kacavATa Ayojako AgaLa vyakta karyo. bIje divase savAre Ayojakoe potAno nirNaya jAhera karyo, 'Aje ApaNe milpharDa sAunDa pharIthI jaIe chIe. ApaNI pAse samaya che. alabatta, have mAunTa kUka mATe AvatI kAle vahelI savAre prayANa karavuM paDaze.' milpharDa sAunDano nirNaya jAhera thatAM badhAmAM AnaMda prasarI gayo. hoTelathI nIkaLI homa2 Tanala pasAra karI, baMdare pahoMcI, sTImaramAM besI gayA. jeo jaI AvyA hatA teo bAkInAne mATe aDadhA gAiDa banI javAnA utsAhamAM hatA. bIjI vA2no amAro pravAsa evo ja harSollAsayukta rahyo. vizeSamAM amane pANImAM chalAMgo mAratI be Dolphinano mahAsAgara sudhI sAtha maLyo. vaLatAM 'sIla khaDaka' para ekabIjA 52 mAthuM rAkhIne ghasaghasATa UMghatAM AThanava sIla jovA maLyAM. koIke majAkamAM uccArelI bhaviSyavANI ATalI badhI vahelI sAcI paDaze evuM dhAryuM nahotuM. bIje divase savAre ame mAunTa kUka jovA UpaDyA. nyUjhIlaeNnDano A UMcAmAM
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________________ milpharDa sAunDa ane mAunTa kUka 125 UMco himAcchAdita parvata che. enI UMcAI 12,349 phUTa che. nyUjhIlaeNnDanI himAcchAdita parvatamALAne jUnA vakhatamAM aMgrejoe 'dakSiNa Alpsa' evuM nAma ApyuM hatuM. mAunTa kUkanuM nAma nyUjhIlaeNnDanI zodhasaphara karanAra jemsa phUMkanA nAma parathI apAyuM che. ame mAunTa kUka pAse pahoMcyA. ahIM keTalAka Arohako saraMjAma sAthe AvI, taMbUmAM mukAma karI TheTha zikhara sudhI baraphamAM pahoMce che. keTalAka amuka UMcAI sudhI page caDhIne pAchA phare che. keTalAka pravAsIo moTarabasamAM AsapAsa cakkara lagAve che. helikaoNpTa2mAM ke nAnA vimAnamAM jeone upara javuM hoya to te mATe paNa vyavasthA che. ame keTalAke helikaoNpTaramAM javAnuM pasaMda karyuM. pravAsana-kendra pAsethI UpaDatAM lAla-bhUrA raMganAM, mahAkAya pakSI jevAM helikaoNpTaramAM ame UDyA. helikaoNpTare dhIre dhIre parvatanI AsapAsa pradakSiNA karI ke jethI enuM badhI bAjuthI barAbara darzana thAya. tyAra pachI lagabhaga dasa hajAra phUTanI UMcAIe baraphanA eka vizALa sapATa vistAramAM eNe utarANa karyuM. helikaoNpTaramAM mAunTa kUkanA zikhara paranA baraphamAM pahoMcavuM e paNa eka romAMcaka kvacit paramatattvanI jhAMkhI karAvanAra anubhava che. ahIM baraphamAM cAlavA ane phoTA pADavA daseka miniTa amane ApI hatI. helikaoNpTaramAMthI huM Utaryo. mArAM patnI na UtaryAM, kAraNa ke baraphamAM cAlavAnuM emane phAve ema na hatuM. pocA pocA baraphamAM mArA paga khUMcI jatA hatA. eTale samatolapaNuM sAcavIne pharavAnuMhatuM. vaLI baraphamAM lapasI paDavAno bhaya paNa rahe. ThaMDA pradezomAM keTalAya lokone baraphamAM cAlavAno niyamita anubhava hoya che. amArAmAMnA keTalAyane jiMdagImAM pahelI vAra Avo barapha jovAno ane emAM cAlavAno prasaMga hato. parvatanI UMcAI, UMcAInI pAtaLI havA, baraphamAM cAlavAnuM, sakhata ThaMDI - A badhAMne kA2Ne keTalAkane thatuM ke jhaTa nIce salAmata sthaLe pahoMcI jaIe to sAruM. mAunTa kUkanAM darzana-ArohaNa pachI ame sau pAchA pharyA. himAcchAdita zikharonI hAramALAnuM bhavya dRzya basamAMthI satata nihALavA maLatuM hatuM. rastAmAM TekApo (Tekapo)nAmanuM sarovara jovA maLyuM. AchA morapiccha jevo enA pANIno anokho raMga jiMdagImAM anyatra kyAMya jovA maLyo nathI. sUkAM medAno vacce A laMbavartuLa sarovara jANe dharatImAtAe opala maDheluM ghareNuM paheryuM hoya evuM lAgatuM hatuM. A sarovaranA kinAre eka udyAnamAM bhojana mATe mukAma karyA pachI, basamAM kenTarabarInAM medAno pasA2 karIne rAtre ame krAisTacarcanI hoTelamAM AvI pahoMcyA. AkhA divasanA pravAsanA thAke amane tvarita nidrAdhIna karI dIdhA.
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________________ 20 pherabaeNksanAM nensI homabarga alAskA eTale amerikAnAM rAjyomAM eka evuM rAjya ke je nakazAmAM jo joIe to jANe sAMdho karIne joDeluM hoya evuM lAge. vastuta: e jhAra rAjAnA vakhatamAM raziyAno ja nakAmo pradeza hato, paNa amerikAe I.sa. 1897mAM DahApaNapUrvaka botera lAkha DaoNlaramAM raziyA pAsethI, Azare cha lAkha corasa mAIla jeTalo e pradeza kharIdI lIdho hato. uttara dhruva taraphanA A asahya ThaMDA pradezamAM eskimo uparAMta elyuiTa, TiliMgiTa, hAiDA, AthAbAskansa vagere jAtio vaselI che. amerikanono alAskAmAM vasavATa to bIjA vizvayuddha pachI savizeSa rahyo. jApAna jevA nAnakaDA deze amerikAnA parla hArbara para AkramaNa karyuM tyAre amerikA coMkI UThyuM. alAskAmAM lazkaranI heraphera mATe tAbaDatoba rastAo banAvavAnI anivAryatA UbhI thaI. 194ramAM kALA sainikonI eka AkhI rejimenTa rastAo banAvavAmAM kAme lAgI gaI. tApamAnano pAro zUnyanI nIce 40 DigrIthI 50 DigrI jeTalo hoya evA ziyALAnA divasomAM taMbuomAM rahIne sainikoe sADAATha mahinAmAM kula paMdaraso mAIla jeTalA rastAo bAMdhI dIdhA hatA. ame 1992mAM amerikAmAM hatA tyAre tyAM rahetA amArA putra amitAbhane amane alAskA batAvavAnI ghaNI hoMza hatI. ame enkarejathI TheTha poinTa bero sudhI javAnA hatA. pravAsanuM Ayojana thaI rahyuM hatuM tyAre amitAbhe pUchayuM, "pappA, pherabaeNksamAM ApaNe hoTelamAM rahevuM che ke koInA ghare ?' meM kahyuM, "koInA ghare rahevAnuM maLatuM hoya to vadhu sAruM. e sastuM paDe e to kharuM, paNa ghare rahevAthI tyAMnA lokonI raheNIkaraNIno paNa kaMIka khyAla Ave." pAzcAtya jagatamAM keTalAya nivRtta mANaso potAnA ghare pravAsIone utAro ApIne thoDIka kamANI kare le che. kayUTaramAM tapAsa karIne amitAbhe kahyuM, pherabaeNksamAM je keTalAMka gharo utAro Ape che emAM eka nensI (nAnsI) homabarga nAmanI mahilAnuM ghara che. e kadAca ApaNane phAve evuM che. emaNe lakhyuM che ke pote zAkAhArI che ane savAranAM cApANI-nAstAmAM phakta zAkAhArI vAnagIo ja Ape che."
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________________ pherabaeNksanAMnensI homabarga 127 nensInuM ghara nakkI thatAM I-meilathI tArIkho jaNAvAI ane te maMjUra thayAno javAba paNa AvI gayo. ame alAskAnA mukhya moTA zahera enkareja pahoMcyA. tyAM gADI bhADe laIne badhe pharyA. tyAra pachI pherabeksa javA ravAnA thayA. pherabaeNksa alAskAnuM enkareja pachInuM bIjuM moTuM zahera. alAskAnA parvatIya pradezamAM sapATa dharatI ochI ane vastI paNa ochI. uttara dhruvavartuLanI najIka, Azare 60 DigrI akSAMza para AvelA pherabaeNksanI vastI lagabhaga trIsa hajAranI, paNa evI chUTIchavAI ke rastA kyAMya bharacaka dekhAya nahi. alAskAnI uttare AveluM A chelluM moTuM zahera. ahIMthI have parvato, TharelA javALAmukhIo, kAdaviyA khINono pradeza zarU thAya, je ziyALAmAM baraphathI badho chavAI gayo hoya. ahIM unALAmAM rAtanA be vAgyA sudhI ajavALuM hoya ane pachI kalAka aMdhAruM thAya, paNa te moMsUjhaNA jevuM. ame enkarejathI nIkaLyA. rastAmAM ninAnA ane "tanAnAnAmanI nadIonAM borDa vaMcAyAM, paNa jharaNAM jevI nAnI nadI jovI hoya to gADI UbhI rAkhIne, jhADImAM jaIne zodhavI paDe. enkarejathI pherabaeNksano dvimArgI rasto keTalo vizALa hato ! paNa baso-aDhIso kilomITara jatAM amane Akhe raste eka paNa moTarakAra jovA maLI nahi. covIsa kalAka gADIothI dhamadhamatA amerikAnA rastAone gADIono virahakALa hoto nathI. paNa uttara alAskAmAM ethI UMdhuM che. joke have dhIme dhIme tyAM paNa pravAha vadhavA lAgyo che. pherabenkasa najIka AvatuM jaNAyuM eTale amitAbhe kAgaLa kADhIne kaI dizAmAM kyAM javAnuM che te joI lIdhuM. ghaNAM pAzcAtya zaheromAM rastAmAM gADI UbhI rAkhIne pUchavAnI prathA nathI ane pUchavuM hoya to page cAlatA mANaso nathI. koInA ghare javuM hoya to DAyarekazana pUchI levI paDe ane na samajAya to gesa sTezana (peTrola paMpa) para jaIne tapAsa karavI paDe. nensInuM ghara enA nadInA kinAre hatuM eTale ame cenA nadInuM baoNrDa AvatAM e dizAmAM gADI vALI. ApelI nizAnI pramANe ame nensInA ghara pAse AvI pahoMcyA. bahAra bagIco sarasa hato, paNa makAna jUnuM, gaI sadInuM hoya evuM lAgyuM. phAvaze to rahIzuM, nahi to hoTelamAM cAlyA jaIzuM evo bhAva manamAM AvI gayo. ghaMTaDI dabAvatAM eka zvetakozI prauDha mahilAe ghara ughADyuM. temaNe sasmita kahyuM, "huM nensI homabarga. Avo... tamArI ja rAha jotI hatI.' amAro utAro vyAvasAyika dhoraNe hato, paNa nensInA avAjamAM svajana jevo AvakArabharyo umaLako hato.
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________________ 128 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 emaNe kahyuM, "mane inDiyana loko bahu game. emAM paNa tamArAM patnIne saMbodhIne) tamArI raMgaberaMgI inDiyana sADI jotAM AnaMda thAya che." nensIe amAre rahevA mATeno rUma batAvyo. emAM ame amAro sAmAna mUkI dIdho. rUma khAsso moTo, AThadasa mANasa sUI zake evaDo hato. A SaTrakoNiyA rUmanuM rAcaracIluM jUnA jamAnAnI yAda apAve evuM, sIsama jevA lAkaDAnuM hatuM. rUmamAM palaMga jADA, moTA ane majabUta hatA. te eTalA UMcA hatA ke nIcA mA ane nIce rAkhelA bAjoTha para paga mUkIne caDavuM paDe. nensIe khulAso karyo ke jUnA vakhatamAM jyAre hITaro nahotAM tyAre ziyALAnI ThaMDImAM jamIna eTalI badhI TharI jatI ke palaMga vadhu UMco hoya to ThaMDI ochI lAge. kotarakAmavALuM eka bAraNuM batAvIne emaNe kahyuM, "e kabATa nathI, paNa bAtharUmanuM bAraNuM che." meM bAraNuM kholyuM ke tarata pAcho haThI gayo. eka pakSI UDatuM mArI sAme AvatuM jaNAyuM. nensIe kahyuM, Daro nahi, e sAcuM pakSI nathI. ramakaDuM che. chatamAM dorIthI laTakAveluM che. bAraNuM ughADatAM havAno je dhakko lAge che ethI pakSInI pAMkho phaDaphaDe che ane te ApaNI sAme AvatuM lAge che.' A pakSI te ghuvaDa hatuM. hatuM ramakaDuM paNa jIvaMta lAge. meM kahyuM, "tamane ghuvaDa gamatuM lAge che. bahAranA khaMDamAM paNa ghuvaDanI keTalIka zilpAkRtio jovA maLI.' hA, ghuvaDa mAruM priya pakSI che. mArA gharamAM tamane be-cAra nahi, paNa basothI vadhAre kalAkRtio jovA maLaze." ApaNe tyAM nizAcara ghuvaDa apazukaniyALa gaNAya che, paNa ahIM to ghuvaDono Dhagalo hato. nensIno zokha kaMIka vicitra ghelachA jevo lAgyo, alabatta pAzcAtya dezomAM ghuvaDa mATe evo pUrvagraha ke miththAmAnyatA nathI. ame sAmAna goThavI, svastha thaI nensI pAse beThAM. paraspara paricaya thayo. nensI amerikAmAM mikriyApolisa nAmanA zaheramAM itihAsa ane saMskRtinAM adhyApikA hatAM. teo duniyAmAM ghaNuM pharyAM che ane bhArata paNa AvI gayAM che. AgrAno tAjamahAla emaNe joyo che. videzamAM ghaNA lokomAM evo khyAla pravarte che ke tAjamahAla na joyo hoya tyAM sudhI bhAratano pravAsa adhUro gaNAya. bhArata ane bhAratIya prajA-saMskRti vize nensIne bahu mAna che. huM tathA mArAM patnI bhAratamAM adhyApananA kSetramAM hatAM ane have nivRtta thayAM chIe e jANIne nensIne AnaMda thayo. tame pherabaeNksamAM rahevAnuM kema pasaMda karyuM ?' meM sahaja pUchyuM. emaNe kahyuM, "huM
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________________ 129 pherabaMnkasanAM nensI homabarga bhaNAvatI hatI tyAre ahIMnI AdivAsI jAtinA lokonA abhyAsa mATe keTalIka vAra AvI hatI. tyArathI manamAM ema thayuM ke mAre nivRtta jIvana pherabaeNksamAM gALavuM, kAraNa ke ahIMnI zAnti addabhuta che. e to tame ziyALAmAM raho tyAre anubhave samajAya evI vAta che. sadbhAgye mArA pati paNa saMmata thayA. teo enjiniyara hatA. ame ahIM A ghara vecAtuM lIdhuM. alAskAmAM jyAre sonuM nIkaLyuM hatuM tyAre zrImaMtono A bAju dhasAro thayo hato. e vakhate koIka zrImaMte potAnA mATe A moTuM majabUta ghara baMdhAvyuM hatuM. emaNe potAne mATe bahAra kUvo paNa khodAvyo hato. tame bahAra jazo to jamaNI bAju khUNAmAM e jovA maLaze. haju paNa e cAlu che ane enuM pANI taddana svaccha ane pI zakAya evuM che.' nensInI vAtomAM amane rasa paDyo. ame pUchyuM ke "tamane ghuvaDamAM ATalo badho rasa kema paDyo ?' nensIe kahyuM, "mArA pati gujarI gayA pachI huM gharamAM ekalI chuM. dIkaro zikAgomAM eka peTrola kaMpanImAM kAma kare che. varasamAM ekAda vakhata te AvI jAya che. amArI pAse saMpatti sArI che. paNa lokonI sAthe haLavA-maLavAnuM thAya eTale unALAmAM pravAsIone rAkhuM chuM. ziyALAnI traNa mahinAnI aMdhArI rAtrimAM huM gharamAM ekalI houM chuM. mane ekalatAno Dara nathI, paNa rAtre jAganAra pakSI ghuvaDanI jIvaMta AkRtio gharamAM hoya to vastI jevuM lAge che, mane e game che.' mANasanA mananA khyAlo kevA bhAtIgaLa hoya che ! nensIe amane gharanA judA judA kamarA batAvyA. jANe ke graMthAlaya hoya eTalAM badhAM pustako hatAM ane saMgrahasthAna hoya eTalI badhI kalAkRtio hatI, ArasanI, lAkaDAnI, mATInI, kAgaLanI, raMgaberaMgI paththaronI. dIvAlo para citro ane phoTAo paNa eTalAM badhAM ane te darekanI prAptino itihAsa judo judo. ghuvaDanI vividha prakAranI zilpAkRtio pAradarzaka kAcanA dareka kabATamAM ane dareka rUmamAM tathA bAtharUmamAM jovA maLI, jANe ke ApaNI sAme tAkIne jotuM hoya evI rIte goThavelI. gharamAM basa ghuvaDa, ghuvaDa, ghuvaDa. samaya hato eTale ame pherabaeNksamAM pharavA nIkaLyA. pahoLA vistAromAM patharAyelA pherabaeNksamAM pradUSaNamukta nIrava zAMti anubhavAtI hatI. ahIM jagyAnI achata nathI, gIca vastI nathI. kAyamI vasavATa mATe sau koIne nimaMtraNa che, paNa ahIM aMdhArI dIrgha rAtrinI jIvaleNa ThaMDImAM rahevA Ave koNa ? ame alAskana yunivarsiTI joI. yunivarsiTImAM ame myujhiyama joyuM. tyAM jovA jevI, khAsa to judI judI jAtione lagatI vastuo ghaNI che, paraMtu amAruM vizeSa dhyAna kheMcyuM pravezadvAra pAse kAcamAM rAkhelI eka moTI jaMgalI bheMse. masAlo bharIne rAkhelI e
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________________ 130 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 kadAvara bheMsanuM zaba pAsenA dhruvapradezanA baraphamAMthI khodakAma karatAM maLI AvyuM hatuM. jyAre zaba maLyuM tyAre enAM lohImAMsa evAM ja tAjAM hatAM, jANe ke thoDI vAra pahelAM ja mRtyu pAmI na hoya ! paraMtu vaijJAnikoe saMzodhana karIne jaNAvyuM ke bheMsanuM zarIra ochAmAM ochuM pAMca hajAra varSa jUnuM che. dUrathI koI eskimoe karelA ghAtaka prahAranI nizAnI enA zarIra para dekhAtI hatI. tyAM lohI thIjI gayuM hatuM. baraphanA tophAnane lIdhe eskimo bhAgI gayA haze ane bheMsa marIne tyAM baraphamAM daTAI gaI haze. ema karatAM hajAro varSa pasAra thaI gayAM haze. AvI rIte kudaratI baraphamAM daTAyeluM zaba evuM ne evuM ja rahe che, ene Permafrost kahe che. pherabaeNksamAM cUkavA na jevo eka anubhava te uttara dhruvapradezanAM calacitro jovAno che. ame eka calacitra joyuM. emAM ekasAthe bAjubAjumAM rAkhelA traNa paDadA para evAM dRzyo batAvavAmAM AvyAM ke jANe ApaNe sAkSAt helikaoNpTaramAM besIne najIkathI jotA hoIe. helikopTara evA acAnaka vaLAMka le ke paDI javAnI bIke ApaNe khurazIno dAMDo pakaDI laIe. dila dhaDaka dhaDaka kare evuM A calacitra jovAnuM kAcApocAnuM kAma nahi, hRdayaroganA dardIoe A na jovuM evI cetavaNI bahAra lakhelI ja hatI. bIjuM eka Northern Lights nAmanuM calacitra joyuM. emAM dhruvarAtrimAM AkAzamAM jovA maLatA bhUrA-lIlA prakAzanA badalAtA jatA lisoTAo (Aurora Borealis) jANe sAkSAt jotA hoIe evo anubhava thayo. sAMje ame ghare pAchA pharyA. nensI sAthe agAuthI vAta thaI gaI hatI te mujaba hAthe rasoI banAvavA mATe ame sAthe dALa, cokhA, loTa, marImasAlA lIdhAM hatAM. mArAM patnIe gujarAtI rasoI banAvI te nensIne bahu bhAvI. jamatAM pahelAM ame prArthanA karI emAM paNa teo joDAyAM. pherabaeNksathI ame eka divasa denAlI pArka ane eka divasa paoNinTa bero jaI AvyA. nensI sAthe amAre svajana jevI AtmIyatA thaI gaI. teo gharamAM uparanA mALe rahetAM hatAM. eka vakhata teo potAnA gharamAM laI gayAM. uparanuM ghara te vaLI bIjuM saMgrahasthAna joI lyo ! eka joIe ane eka bhUlIe evI kalAkRtio hatI. tyAM paNa jAtajAtanAM ghuvaDa. ghuvaDanA raMga jevA raMganA paththaramAMthI kaMDAreluM eka sarasa moTuM ghuvaDa batAvIne nensIe pUchyuM, 'A kevuM lAge che ?" "sarasa, jANe jIvatuM ghuvaDa joI lyo.' "A mAdA ghuvaDa che." ema? amane emAM pharaka zo che te khabara na paDe."
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________________ pherabaeNnkasanAM nensI homabarga 131 "pakSIonA je abhyAsI hoya ene tarata khabara paDe, paNa tamane enAM baccAM dekhAya che ?" "nA." tamArI AMkha dhIme dhIme ghuvaDanI AMkha sudhI laI jAo.' meM ghuvaDanI AMkha pAse mArI AMkha rAkhI. kSaNavAra pachI AMkha sthira thaI tyAre ghuvaDanI moTI AMkhonA pAradarzaka kAcamAMthI jotAM aMdara ghuvaDano mALo ane emAM be baccAM dekhAyAM. tarata mArA mukhamAMthI udgAra sarI paDyA, "vAha vAha, addabhuta !" kArIgare AMkhonI bakhola sAcavIne ghaNI UMDI kotarI che. pachI mALA jevI racanA kotarI che ane tyAra pachI be nAnAM baccAM aMdara sarakAvIne, goThavIne AMkhone kAbaracItarA paNa pAradarzaka kAcathI maDhI lIdhI che. kalAkAro paNa potAnI kalpanAzakti kevI sarasa calAve che ! ame vAraMbara e baccAM joyAM karyAM. - nensIe bIjA eka kabATamAM goThavelI eka mUrti batAvI. badAmI raMganA ArasamAMthI kaMDArelI dazeka iMca jeTalI e mUrti batAvatAM nensIe kahyuM : "hanumena." are ! A to hanumAnajI. e mUrti joIne amane nensI pratye AdarabhAva thayo. emAM vaLI emaNe jyAre kahyuM ke A zakti ane saMrakSaNanA devamAM - The God of Power and ProtectionmAM - potAne zraddhA che ane pote roja darzana kare che tyAre amAro AdarabhAva vizeSa vRddhi pAmyo. emane rAmAyaNanI kathAnI khabara hatI. eka kabATamAM nensIe keseTa, Diska vagere batAvyAM. potAne mATe upara juduM TI.vI. rAkhyuM che. TI.vI. para AvatA managamatA kAryakramonI keseTa pote utArI le che. ziyALAmAM jyAre koInI avarajavara na hoya tyAre pustako vAMcavAM ane keseTo jovI emAM samaya pasAra thaI jAya che. gharanI bahAra tyAre nIkaLI zakAya nahi. pAro zUnyanI nIce 60 DigrIthI 70 DigrI sudhI UtarI jAya che. roja dasa paMdara iMca jeTalo barapha paDe. gharanI bahAra baraphanI UMcI dIvAla thaI jAya. bahAra javuM hoya to barapha jAte khodavo paDe athavA phona karIne mANaso bolavavA paDe. khAdya sAmagrI bharI lIdhI hoya eTale traNa mahinA gharanI bahAra javAnI jarUra nahi. pachInA divasomAM roja eka vakhata gADI calAvIne bahAra jaI Ave. pravAsIo na hoya tyAre yunivarsiTInI lAibrerImAM jaIne vAMce athavA enkareja bAju AMTo mArI Ave. tame ekalAM cho to gharamAM kUtaro rAkhatAM ho to !" e zakya nathI. ahIM mAMsAhAra vagara kUtarAM jIvI na zake. huM janmathI zAkAhArI chuM. mArAM mArAM mAtApitA zAkAhArI hatAM. eTale kUtaro pALavAnuM game bahu, paNa posAya nahi. tamane bhAratamAM zAkAhArI kUtarAM maLe."
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________________ 132 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 nensInA ghare cAra divasa to jotajotAmAM pUrA thaI gayA. jANe mahinAothI rahetA hoIe ane varSono saMbaMdha hoya evuM lAgyuM. samayanuM baMdhana na hota to thoDA divasa vadhu rokAvAnuM game evuM hatuM. ame hisAba cUkavIne sAmAna sAthe taiyAra thayA. nensIe eka jADo copaDo amArI samakSa dharyo - nAma, saranAmuM ane TUMkA abhiprAya mATe. dasa varSathI A copaDo cAle che. keTalA badhA deza-videzanA pravAsIo emane ghera rahI gayA che ! A copaDAe ApaNAM tIrthasthaLonA paMDAonI yAda apAvI. nensInuM ghara amArA mATe tIrthasthaLa jevuM banyuM. ame abhiprAya lakhyo : eka virala abhuta anubhava. ghara choDatI vakhatanI amArI prArthanAmAM nensI paNa joDAyAM. emanI bhAvabhInI vidAya laI ame vAlTijhanA raste cAlyA.
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________________ 21 istaMbula-konsenTinopala istaMbula - konsenTinopala' - A be zabdo sAMbhaLatAM ja mAruM citta bhUtakALanI smRtimAM sarI paDe che ane eka anokho tAlabaddha laya anubhave che. I.sa. 1950thI vIseka varSa muMbaInI seMTa jheviyarsa kaoNlejamAM gujarAtI viSayanA adhyApaka tarIke huM kAma karato hato tyAre dara varSe trIjI Disembare kolejanA vArSika dina nimitte moTA utsavanuM je Ayojana thatuM temAM gIto, rAsa-garabA, nATaka ityAdi prakAranA sAMskRtika kAryakramamAM navA-jUnA vidyArthIo utsAhabhera bhAga letA. emAM hiMdI, gujarAtI, marAThI gIto uparAMta iMgliza gIto paNa sarasa gavAtAM. eka vakhata kolejamAM navI AvelI uSA nAmanI eka paMjAbI vidyArthinIe istaMbula - konsenTinopala'nA dhruvapadavALuM gIta, moTAM Drama tathA anya vAjiMtro sAthe bulaMda svare gAIne evI sarasa jamAvaTa karI dIdhI ke badhA vidyArthIo paNa hAthapaganA svayameva tAla sAthe dhruvapadanA A be zabdo (temAM paNa "bula'ne badale bulla') ucca svare gAvA lAgyA hatA. pachI to uSA jyAM sudhI kolejamAM hatI tyAM sudhI dara varSe A lokapriya gIta gAvAnuM ene mATe pharajiyAta jevuM banI gayuM hatuM. tyAre ghaNAMe pahelI vAra e jANyuM ke AjanuM je istaMbula che te ja prAcIna samayanuM romana sAmrAjyanA pUrva bAjunA vibhAganuM aitihAsika pATanagara kosTenTinopala che. mane svapna paNa tyAre khyAla nahoto ke A istaMbulanI zerIomAM pharavAno avasara eka divasa mane paNa sAMpaDaze. keTalAka vakhata pahelAM ame keTalAka mitro TarkI-turkastAnanA pravAse gayA hatA. amArA grupamAM bIjA bhAratIya pravAsIo paNa hatA. muMbaIthI vahelI savAre vimAnamAM nIkaLIne sAMja pahelAM ame istaMbula pahoMcI gayA. bharacaka vistAramAM AvelI eka jANItI hoTelamAM amAro utAro hato. rUmamAM sAmAna goThavIne ame bajAramAM laTAra mAravA nIkaLyA. Azare pacAsa lAkhanI vastIvALA, turkastAnanA A moTAmAM moTA zahera(have te pATanagara rahyuM nathI)mAM UMcA gorA turkI loko yuropiyana jevA ja lAge. vastuta: TarkIno keTaloka bhAga yuropamAM ane moTo bhAga eziyAmAM che. ahIM mukhya vastI musalamAnonI hovA chatAM rastA, dukAno vagerenAM baoNrDa romana lipimAM che. vIsamI sadImAM turkastAnanA saramukhatyAra kamAla pAzAe ahIM turkI bhASA mATe erebika lipine sthAne romana lipi pharajiyAta banAvI hatI.
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________________ 134 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 istaMbula duniyAnAM keTalAMka suMdara zaheromAMnuM eka che. eka kALe e yuropanuM sarvazreSTha zahera gaNAtuM hatuM. vepAranuM te moTAmAM moTuM mathaka hatuM. yuropa ane eziyA ema baMne bAju jaLamArge tathA jamInamArge eno dhamadhokAra vepAra cAlato. prAkRtika saundarya, anukULa AbohavA, phaLadrupa jamIna, baMdara tarIke mokAnuM sthAna vagerene kAraNe traNa hajAra varSa pahelAM tyAM lokono vasavATa cAlu thayo hato. bhUmadhya samudra ane kALA samudrane joDato ane eziyA tathA yuropanI dharatIne chUTo pADato jalavistAra ahIM Avyo che. bhUmadhya samudra sAthe joDAyelA mArmarA samudra ane kALA samuda vacce je bosporasa nAmanI sAmudradhunI AvI che teno eka nAno phAMTa jyAM pUro thAya che te "golDana haoNrna'nA beya kinArAnI sAmasAmI TekarI para vaseluM baMdara te istaMbula che. istaMbula eTale eziyA ane yuropanuM saMgamasthAna. istaMbulamAM staMbula, galAtA vagere vistAromAM pharIne ame hoTela para pAchA pharyA. bIje divase savAre ame nagaradarzananA kAryakramamAM joDAyA. basamAM amArI gAiDa yuvatIe istaMbulano itihAsa kahyo. jema saundaryanA zikArI ghaNA tema istaMbula potAnI ramaNIyatAne kAraNe ja vakhatovakhata videzI AkramaNono bhoga banyuM hatuM. ahIM yuddho khelAyAM che ane lohInI nadIo vahI che. ema chatAM A nagare potAnuM vyaktitva jALavI rAkhyuM che. zAntinA samayamAM istaMbula zikSaNa, kalA, saMskRtinuM dhAma rahyuM che. ahIM romana kAyado, grIka tattvajJAna, misara(ijipta)nAM zilpa sthApatya, khristI ane islAmI dharmadhArA e badhAMno samanvaya thayo che. traNa hajAra varSa pahelAM, jyAre khristI dharmano ke islAma dharmano udaya thayo na hato tyAre grIsanI pAse AvelA A pradezamAM judI judI sthAnika jAtinA loko vasatA hatA. emAMnI eka jAti bAyajhenTI nAmathI oLakhAtI hatI. enA saradAranuM nAma bAyAjha hatuM. te grIsa bAjuthI dariyAI mArge vepArArthe Avyo hato. A baMdara gamI jatAM eNe ahIM potAnuM thANuM nAkhyuM hatuM. tyArathI A baMdara bAyajhenTiyama tarIke oLakhAvA lAgyuM hatuM. eTale istaMbulanuM sauthI paheluM nAma bAyajhenTiyama hatuM. grIka lokoe enA para Adhipatya jamAvyuM hatuM ane saikAo sudhI te bAyajhenTiyama tarIke paMkAyeluM rahyuM. be hajAra varSa pahelAM khristI dharmano udaya thayo ane dhIme dhIme prasarato te grIsa ane iTalI sudhI pahoMcyo. iTalImAM romanA romana loko baLavAna, parAkramI, yuddhakalAmAM nipuNa ane mahattvAkAMkSI hatA. have grIka saMskRti jhAMkhI paDavA lAgI ane romana saMskRtino prabhAva vadhato gayo. romana sainiko AsapAsano pradeza jItatA jaI romana sAmrAjyano vistAra karatA jatA hatA. I.sa. 324mAM romana samrATa konTenTina-pahelAe bAyajhenTiyama para AkramaNa karI te jItI lIdhuM. prAcIna
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________________ istaMbala-konsenTinopala 13pa samayamAM rAjyanA pATanagara mATe TekarIo ke DuMgarAonI pasaMdagI thatI ane nagaranI AsapAsa moTA koTa-killA bAMdhavAmAM AvatA ke jethI dUra sudhI najara rAkhI zakAya ane zatruo sAme surakSita rahI zakAya. kosTenTine samudrakinAre sAta TekarIo para navesarathI A nagara vasAvyuM ane koTa-killo baMdhAvIne nagarane navuM nAma ApyuM "konsenTinopala'. vaLI, romana sAmrAjyanA be vibhAga karIne, pUrva vibhAganA sAmrAjyanA pATanagara tarIke konsenTinopalane jAhera karyuM. romana loko zilpasthApatyamAM AgaLa vadhyA ane jema jema khristI dharmano pracAra vadhato gayo tema tema sthaLe sthaLe nAnAMmoTAM devaLo baMdhAtAM gayAM. be-eka saikAmAM to romana sAmrAjyamAM hajAro devaLo baMdhAI gayAM, jethI lokone potAnA gharanI najIka dharmasthAnaka maLI rahe. phakta konsenTinopalamAM ja eka hajArathI vadhu devaLo baMdhAI gayAM. vaLI, mahilA saMta (satI) sophiyA(sophAyA)nI yAdagIrImAM chaThThA saikAmAM AkhI duniyAnuM tyAre moTAmAM moTuM devaLa "AyA sophiyA' athavA "hagiyA sophiyA" ahIM konsenTinopalamAM bAMdhavAmAM AvyuM. amane devaLa "hagiyA sophiyA' jovA laI javAmAM AvyA. aMdara jaIne enAM darzana karatAM ja ame AbhA thaI gayA. jyAM sudhI jAte na joIe tyAM sudhI enI virATa bhavyatAno aMdAja na AvI zake. saikAo sudhI te duniyAnuM moTAmAM moTuM devaLa rahyuM hatuM e vAtanI yathArthatA samajAya che. e jamAnAmAM rojeroja hajAro khristIo A devaLanI yAtrAe AvatA. grIka bhASAmAM Hagia sophiano artha thAya che divya prajJA (Divine Wisdom). devaLanI vizALatA, UMcA UMcA staMbhonI pahoLAI, chata-ghummaTanI saMracanA ityAdino vicAra karIe to romana sthApatya keTalI uccatAe pahoMcyuM hatuM enI pratIti thAya che. samrATa jasTiniyane dila daIne A devaLa baMdhAvyuM hatuM. emAM vaparAyelI dasa lAkhathI vadhu lAdIomAM keTalIkamAM sonAnuM jaDatarakAma thayuM che. bhIMtacitromAM paNa sonAno upayoga thayo hovAthI enI AbhA ja kaMIka ora lAge che. A devaLa taiyAra karAvIne jAhera janatA mATe jyAre khulluM mukAyuM haze tyAre to vizvanI A eka adbhuta racanA banyuM haze ! enAM meDonA enDa cAilDa" jevAM keTalAMka benamUna mojheika to vizvavikhyAta banyAM che. romana samrAToe eka hajAra karatAM vadhu varSa konsenTinopalamAM rAjya karyuM. samagra yuropanuM te prathama naMbaranuM suvikhyAta zahera banyuM. rojeroja ahIM hajAro vepArIo AvatA ane dhamadhokAra vepAra karatA. pUrvamAM bhArata ane cIna sudhI A kalAsamRddha, saMpattivAna nagaranI khyAti pahoMcI hatI. paraMtu islAma dharmanA udaya pachI, ane enA vadhatA jatA pracArane kAraNe turka vagere keTalIka jAtinA lokoe e dharma aMgIkAra karyo hato. teo dhIme dhIme saMgaThita ane Akramaka thatA jatA hatA. turka
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________________ 136 pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 lokoe eziyA mAinora para kabajo meLavyo hato. A bAju romana sAmrAjya nabaLuM paDatuM jatuM hatuM. ema karatAM I.sa. 1453mAM oNTomAna vaMzanA sulatAna ahamade yuddha karIne konsenTinopala upara vijaya meLavyo. tyArathI ahIM tarka lokonuM Adhipatya vadhI gayuM. have konsenTinopala "istaMbula' banI gayuM. ahIM taMbula nAmanA jUnA mukhya vistAra parathI istaMbula nAma paDyuM. ahIM islAma dharmano pracAra thayo. ahIM eka hajAra jeTalAM devaLone masjidamAM pheravI nAkhavAmAM AvyAM. hagiyA sophiyA paNa masjida banI gayuM. enA bahAranA bhAgamAM ghummaTo ane minArAonI racanA paNa thaI gaI. (have A devaLa myujhiyama tarIke vaparAya che.) hegiyA sophiyA joyA pachI ame istaMbulanI suprasiddha nIla masjida (Blue Mosque) jovA gayA. istaMbulanA pravAse janAre A masjida avazya jovI joIe. A eka bhavya uttega aitihAsika imArata che. Aje paNa te masjida tarIke - dharmasthaLa tarIke niyamita vaparAya che. sulatAna ahamade e baMdhAvI hatI. enI eka mahattvAkAMkSA hatI ke game teTaluM kharca thAya to paNa potAnI masjida hegiyA sophiyAnA devaLa karatAM badhI ja rIte caDiyAtI banavI joIe. UMcAI, pahoLAI, AkRti, ghummaTonI saMkhyA, kalAkArIgarI, suzobhano, paththaro, raMgo, dhAtuonI guNavattA - ema badhI ja rIte masjidanuM nirmANa hegiyA sophiyA karatAM zreSTha thayuM che. ATalA UMcA vizALa ghummaTanA paththaronuM vajana jhIlavA mATe AdhArastaMbho paNa eTalA ja moTA hovA joIe. ApaNI kalpanA kAma na kare eTalA jADA, UMcA, kotarakAmavALA staMbho A masjidamAM che. emAM nIla eTale ke gherA bhUrA, kyAMka morapicchanA raMga jevA raMganI mojheika TAilsanI saMracanA evI sarasa thaI che ane bArIo vageremAM raMgaberaMgI pAradarzaka kAcamAMthI AvatA prakAzathI vAtAvaraNa evuM preraka lAge che ke jANe koI divya anubhUti na thatI hoya ! masjidano ghummaTa eTalo moTo ane UMco che ke nIce Ubhelo mANasa vAmana jevo lAge. sAmAnya rIte masjidanA eka, be ke cAra minArA hoya che. jUnA vakhatamAM AsapAsa dUra sudhI loko sAMbhaLI zake e rIte bAMga pokAravA mATe UMcA minArA baMdhAtA. paNa pachI koI bAMga pokAravA upara caDatuM na hoya (have to kyAMka temAM mAika mukAya che) to paNa minArA masjidanuM eka Avazyaka, oLakharUpa aMga banI gayuM che. sulatAna ahamade A bhUrI masjidanA cAra nahi paNa cha minArA karAvyA che. vaLI, pratyeka minArAnI Toca evI jhINI aNIdAra banAvI che ke jANe ke aNI kADhelI moTI pensilanI AkRti na hoya ! bhUrI masjide A pRthvI paranI eka virala bhavya sthApatyakRti che. masjida nihALyA pachI amane eka resTorAMmAM laMca mATe laI javAmAM AvyA. amArA zAkAhArIo mATe alaga vyavasthA karavAmAM AvI hatI. A resTorAMnuM nAma
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________________ 137 istaMbula-konsenTinopala "jiMdAna-hAna' mane gamI gayuM. "jiMdAna' eTale jela ane "hAna' eTale resTorAM. jUnA vakhatanI jelanA khAlI paDelA makAnane marAmata ane raMgarogAna karAvIne resTorAM tarIke eno upayoga thavA lAgyo che. eTale enuM nAma paNa evuM ja rakhAyuM che. have amAro kAryakrama 'topakApI' (Topkapi) nAmano rAjamahela jovA javAno hato. A rAjamahela eTale koI eka moTI UMcI imArata nahi, paNa seMkaDo kamarAomAM patharAyelI, udyAno sahita cAra koTa-daravAjAvALI vistRta racanA. enA prathama daravAje topo hatI eTale lokoe ja rAjamahelanuM nAma "topakApI" pADI dIdhuM hatuM. duniyAnA prasiddha aitihAsika rAjamahelomAM topakApInI gaNanA thAya che. TomAna sulatAnoe lagabhaga cAraso varSa turkastAna para supere zAsana calAvyuM, kAraNa ke bahu vyavasthita rIte e cAlyuM hatuM. sulatAnanA dIkarAnA dIkarAo ane emanA dIkarAo ema cArapAMca peDhI sudhI eka vaTavRkSanI jema vizALa saMyukta kuTuMbamAM teo saMpathI rahyA hatA. darekane vahIvaTa - dekharekha ane surakSA mATe amuka judA judA pradezo soMpAyelA hatA. teo badhA mahelamAM Ave ne jAya. emanuM vyavasthAtaMtra bahu saghana ane kAryakSama hatuM. mahelanA "ortAkApI' nAmanA madhya bhAgamAM kacerIo hatI. tyAMthI samagra sAmrAjyano vahIvaTa thato. ahIM bIjA eka vibhAgamAM janAnakhAnA che, jemAM ekasothI adhika kamarAo che. dareka kamarAnI sajAvaTa anokhI. janAnakhAnAnI sAcavaNI mATe, prAcIna bhAratamAM prathA hatI tema, kaMcukIo(Eunuchs)nI nimaNUka thatI. rAjamahelamAM eka vibhAga bALakonI sunnata mATe rAkhavAmAM Avyo hato. A rAjamahelamAM badhAMnAM zayanagRha, snAnAgAra vageremAM ghaNI sagavaDo karavAmAM AvI hatI. sulatAnanA potAnA snAnAgAramAM kapaDAM badalavAnI, telamAlisa karavAnI, ThaMDA-garama pANInA phuvArA ane hojanI vyavasthA, e jamAnAnI apekSAe Azcarya pamADe evI hatI. sulatAnanI jema prajAjano mATe paNa jAhera snAnAgAra turkastAnamAM hatA. snAnakalAne turkoe bahu vikasAvI hatI. eTale "Tarkiza bAtha', Tarkiza Tovela' jevA zabdo pracalita thaI gayA hatA. A rAjamahelamAM traNasothI vadhu parivAranA sabhyo uparAMta dAsadAsIo, cokIdAro, sainiko, mahemAno, vepArIo ema badhAM mATe roja rasoI thatI. e mATe bhojanazALAnA ghaNA judA judA khaMDo hatA je Aje paNa joI zakAya che. dareka vibhAganI rasoI judI thAya. amane eka rasoDuM batAvavAmAM AvyuM ke je so varSanAM dAdImA-begama mATe alAyaduM hatuM. topakApI mahela pote ja abhyAsano eka moTo viSaya che. enA upara svataMtra
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________________ 138 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 sacitra pustako lakhAyAM che. cAra-pAMca peDhI sudhI eka ja parivAranA sabhyo, saMyukta kuTuMbanI prathA pramANe kevA saMpathI rahyAM haze enuM jvalaMta udAharaNa 'topakApI mahela" pUruM pADe che. mahela joIne sAMje hoTela para AvI, svastha thaIne ame saMgItanI eka mahephilamAM gayA. istaMbulanI eka klabamAM roja videzanA pravAsIo mATe bhojana ane saMgItano kAryakrama yojAya che. ame badhA pravAsI-mahemAno potapotAnA jUthamAM nizcita karelA Tebala AsapAsa goThavAyA. pINAM ane bhojananI vAnagIo pIrasAtI rahI ane raMgamaMca parathI eka pachI eka gIto, ghaNAM badhAM vAjiMtro sAthe mukhya gAyaka ke gAyikA athavA samagra gAyakavRMda hAthamAM chUTuM mAika rAkhI pharatAM pharatAM gAtAM jatAM hatAM. je je dezanAM nAma bolAya te te dezanA pravAsI mahemAno UbhA thAya, teone joradAra tALIothI vadhAvavAmAM Ave ane te pachI te te dezanAM philmI ane bIjAM mazahUra gIto gavAtAM jAya. emAM yuropanA dezo uparAMta bhArata, cIna, jApAna, koriyA vagere trIsathI adhika dezonAM te te bhASAnAM gIto mukhya gAyake pahADI avAje, hAthamAM kAgaLa rAkhyA vinA, moDhe gAyAM. bhAratanAM gItomAM rAjakapUranAM calacitronAM "merA jUtA hai jApAnI", "merA nAma rAju' vagere gIto evI sarasa rIte gAyAM, ke mULa gAyakanI khoTa na varatAya. A badhAM gItomAM istaMbula - kosTenTinopala' gIta paNa mane ghaNAM varSe sAMbhaLavA maLyuM. UMcA, bharAvadAra mUcho ane evA ja zarIravALA hasamukhA gAyakanA lahekA ane gItonI sajjatA mATe badhAMne bahu mAna thayuM ane pratyeka gIte bahu tALIo paDI. ahIM jANe vizvabaMdhutvanI bhAvanAnuM vAtAvaraNa sarjAyuM hatuM. A mahephilano amane eka anokho anubhava thayo. bIje divase savAre boTamAM ame bosporasanI sahelagAhe nIkaLyAM. A sAmudradhunInA baMne kinAre AvelI aitihAsika imAratono paricaya karAvAto gayo. ame trIseka kilomITara dUra tArAbiyA nAmanA nagara sudhI gayA. saramukhatyAra kamAla pAzAno samRddha mahela ame joyo. samudrakinAre e eka AlIzAna imArata che. boTamAM pAchA pharIne ame istaMbula baMdare UtaryA. ahIM pAse ja bajAramAM mIThAI-mevAnI hArabaMdha dukAno che. turkastAna eTale pistAMno deza. turkastAna, grIsa vagere dezamAM phaLadrupa jamIna, mAphakasara varasAda ane taDako tathA anukULa havAmAnane kAraNe pistAnAM vRkSo bahu che ane prativarSa pistAMno mabalakha pAka thAya che. eTale pistAM ahIM sastAM maLe che. ahIM dukAnonI bahAra pistAM bharelA khullA kothaLA mUkavAmAM AvyA hatA. bahAra UbhelA dukAnonA selsameno gharAkone potAnI dukAna tarapha kheMcavA mATe bUmAbUma karatA hatA. amAre pistAM kharIdavAM hatAM. eka dukAna
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________________ zrI vRddhicaMdrajI mahArAja 139 pAse gayA to dukAnadAre tarata mUTho bharIne pistAM amane cAkhavA ApyAM. AvA bajAramAM AvIe tyAre ja khabara paDe ke aho, pistAmAM paNa keTalI badhI jAto che ! dukAnadAra udAratAthI cakhADe, ane be jAta vacceno pharaka samajAve. ame amuka jAtanAM pistAM jokhAvyAM. daramiyAna amArAmAMnA eka pravAsIbhAI dukAnamAM anyatra rAkhelI pistAMnI mIThAIo jotA hatA. dukAnadAranI udAratAthI prabhAvita thayelA temaNe cAkhavA mATe mIThAIno eka TukaDo hAthamAM lIdho tyAM to cakora dukAnadAre tarata jorathI ghAMTo pADyo, "mUkI do e pAchI, cAkhavA mATe nathI. e bahu moMghI che," mIThAI tarata pAchI mukAI gaI. dukAnadAre samajAvyuM ke amuka prakAranI "Tarkiza DilAiTa' bahu moMghI Ave che. e cAkhavA na levAya. Tarkiza DilAiTanI jema Tarkiza kaoNphI paNa suvikhyAta che. mATI jevI e kaoNphI banAvavAnI rIta judI ane e mATenAM vAsaNo paNa judAM hoya che. eno svAda barAbara mANavo hoya to e rIte ja kaoNphI ukALIne banAvavI joIe. ame thoDI kaoNphI paNa kharIdI. ahIM khADInA kinAre cogAnamAM pheriyAo jAtajAtanI cIjavastuo videzI pravAsIone vecavA mATe AMTA mAratA hatA. jarAka rasa batAvIe to keDo na mUke. AsapAsa badhA vIMTaLAI vaLe. bhAvatAla ghaNo karavo paDe. amAre to kazuM kharIdavuM nahotuM, paraMtu amArAmAMnA keTalAkane pheriyA sAthe rakajhaka karavAmAM AnaMda Avato hato. pheriyAomAM paNa mAMhomAMhe spardhA cAlatI hatI. ardhavikasita dezonI A lAkSaNikatA che. amArAmAMnA eka pravAsIe Tarkiza bharatakAmavALI cAdara mATe bhAvatAla karyA paNa patyuM nahi. evAmAM amArI basa AvI eTale ame badhA pravAsIo TapoTapa basamAM besavA lAgyA, kAraNa ke A basa vadhu vakhata UbhI rAkhI zakAya ema nahotuM. kiMmata kasavAmAM kuzaLa evA pelA sajjana bArI pAse besI haju pheriyA sAthe vATAghATa karatA rahyA. chevaTe sodo patyo. cAdara lIdhI paNa DaoNlara kADhavAmAM vAra lAgI. evAmAM basa UpaDI. pheriyo basanI sAthe doDyo, paraMtu paisA jhaTa cUkavAyA nahi. pheriyAe bUmAbUma karI, paNa basa signala oLaMgIne AgaLa pUrapATa cAlI. sAthe doDato pheriyo aMte nirAza thaIne bUmo pADato Ubho rahI gayo. kadAca potAnI bhASAmAM gALo paNa bhAMDato haze ! A vAtanI pravAsIomAM mAMhomAMhe khabara paDatAM badhAMe pheriyA mATe sahAnubhUti darzAvI. potAnI pAse chUTA DaoNlara nathI, moTI noTa che ema kahI kharIdanAra pravAsIe svabacAva karyo, paraMtu emanA caherA para vastu maphata meLavavA mATenI luccAIno AnaMda chUpo rahI zakato nahoto. pheriyo ane gharAka ema ubhayapakSe AvI ghaTanAo keTalIka vAra bane che.
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 amArI basa have 'saMkana sisTarna' (Sunken Cistern - bhUgarbhanuM TAMkuM) pAse pahoMcI. istaMbulanI A eka anokhI racanA che. je kALe hegiyA sophiyAnuM bAMdhakAma thayuM te kALe, chaThThA saikAmAM romana sAmrAjyanA vakhatamAM A bhUgarbha TAMkAnuM bAMdhakAma thayeluM. varasAdanuM pANI bharI levA mATe gharamAM nIce TAMkuM karAvavAnI prathA jUnA vakhatamAM ApaNe tyAM paNa hatI. (amadAvAda, khaMbhAta, vaDodarA vagere zaheronAM jUnA vakhatanAM gharomAM haju paNa TAMkAM che.) unALAmAM TAMkAMnuM pANI vaparAtuM. AkhA zahera mATe TAMkuM karAvavAno vicAra romana samrATa jasTiniyanane Avelo. istaMbulanuM A bhUgarbha TAMkuM AkhI duniyAnuM moTAmAM moTuM TAMkuM che. te aDhIso phUTa pahoLuM ane sADAcAraso phUTa lAMbuM che. emAM 336 jeTalA staMbha che. varasAdanuM bahAra paDeluM pANI jamInamAM UtarI nIce TAMkAmAM AkhuM varasa divasarAta TapakatuM rahe che. TAMkAnA pANImAM eka cheDethI bIje cheDe javA mATe vacce UMcI pALIo banAvelI che. ame pagathiyAM UtarI TAMkAmAM pharI AvyA ane thoDA bhIMjAyA paNa kharA. potAnI prajAnI sukhAkArI mATe samrATone kevI rAkSasI yojanAo sUjhatI ane sthApatyavido kevuM nakkara kAma karI ApatA ! TAMkAnuM pANI Aje vaparAtuM nathI, paNa pravAsIo mATe aMdara prakAza ane saMgItanuM Ayojana karavAmAM AvyuM che. AkhA divasano kAryakrama pUro thayo eTale sAMje basa amArI hoTela para pAchI pharI. ame badhAM UtaratAM hatAM tyAM pelo pheriyo potAnA traNa dostAro sAthe basanA daravAjA pAse ja Ubho hato. pelA pravAsIbhAI UtaryA ke tarata eNe apamAnajanaka rADArADa cAlu karI. pravAsIe kharIdelI cAdara pAchI ApavA mAMDI te pheriyAe lIdhI nahi. aMte DaoNlara to ApavA paDyA, paNa te uparAMta pheriyAoe pravAsIne AMtarI rAkhIne TaeNkSInA paisA paNa parANe paDAvyA. mANasane potAnI duvRttinuM pariNAma kyAreka tarata ja bhogavavAnuM Ave che. AsapAsanAM bIjAM keTalAMka sthaLoe pharIne ame istaMbulanI vidAya lIdhI. 140
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________________ pariziSTa svadeze paribhramaNa noMdha videzanI jema samagra bhAratamAM pravAsa karavAnuM thayuM che. ghaNA lAkSaNika anubhavo thayA che. e vize lakhavAnI bhAvanA che. keTalAka pravAsalekho lakhAyA che te prakAzita thatAM ane graMthasvarUpe pragaTa thatAM vAra lAgaze. daramiyAna 'khajurAho' vizeno prakAzita thayelo pravAsalekha A graMthamAM pariziSTa tarIke mUkyo che jethI vAcakane sulabha thAya. - lekhaka
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________________ khajurAho khajurAhono pravAsa karavAnI taka to ghaNI vAra sAMpaDI che paraMtu pahelI vAra je vilakSaNa anubhava thayo hato te adyApi avismRta che. zRMgArarasika zilpAkRtione kAraNe vIsamI sadImAM AMtararASTrIya prasiddhi pAmavAthI khajurAho dezavidezanA aneka paryaTakonI yAdImAM umerAtuM rahyuM che. vastutaH khajurAhonAM maMdironAM samagra zilpasthApatyamAM ratizilpanuM pramANa to dasa TakA jeTaluM paNa nathI, paNa niSiddha vastu vadhu dhyAna kheMce e nyAye khajurAhonI AvI khyAti comera vistarI che. eTale mAtra kautuka khAtara ja nahi, gahana abhyAsa mATe paNa aneka vidagdha vyaktio tyAM AvavA lAgI che ane bhAratanA A aitihAsika sthaLa vize samartha, sacitra sAhitya prakAzita thatuM rahyuM che. pahelI vAra khajurAho javAno amAro kAryakrama aNadhAryo goThavAI gayo hato. dara varase kArataka mahinAmAM madhya pradezanA tIrthadhAma citrakUTamAM sadguru sevA TrasTa taraphathI vizALa pAye netrayajJanuM Ayojana thAya che, jeno lAbha hajAro garIba dardIone maLe che. A netrayajJamAM sevA ApavAno avasara amane keTalAka mitrone sAMpaDyo hato. kArtikI pUrNimA pachI amAro sevAkALa pUro thato hato ane muMbaI pAchAM pharIe te pahelAM vacce eka divasa maLato hato. AsapAsanAM jovA jevAM sthaLono ame vicAra karatAM hatAM tyAM koIke kahyuM ke eka divasamAM khajurAho paNa jaI AvI zakAya. amArI maMDaLImAMthI koIe khajurAho joyuM nahotuM eTale enI mulAkAtanI darakhAsta tarata svIkArAI gaI. Ama to khajurAho jovA mATe eka divasa ocho gaNAya to paNa Avo avasara javA na devo evo badhAno mata paDyo. e mATe zI vyavasthA thaI zake te aMge TrasTanA kAryAlayamAM maeNneja2ne maLyA to jANavA maLyuM ke nava jaNa mATe to jIpa ja bhADe ka2vI sArI paDe. vahelI savAre nIkaLIe to jovA-pharavA mATe vadhu samaya maLe. sAMje veLAsara pAchA pharavAnuM salAhabharyuM che. jIpa kilomITa2nA bhAve Ave che. ahIM jIpa tamane jUnI maLaze paNa bhAva badhAnA ekasarakhA, vAjabI hovAthI kazI chetarAmaNI nathI thatI. bhADAnI 2kama DrAivarane sIdhI ApI zakAya athavA AvyA pachI kAryAlayamAM jamA karAvI zakAya. badhI mAhitI meLavyA pachI ame maeNneja2ne ja jIpanI vyavasthA karI ApavA kahyuM. tapAsa ka2AvIne emaNe kahyuM ke savAre barAbara sADA pAMca vAge kAryAlaya pAse amArA mATe jIpa AvIne UbhI raheze. bIje divase savAre ame badhAM samayasara
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________________ - - - - - - - - - - khajurAho 143 amArA khAvApIvAnA sAmAna sAthe kAryAlaya pAse pahoMcI gayAM. vAtAvaraNamAM ThaMDI hatI eTale garama kapaDAM paNa paheravA paDyAM hatAM. ame kAryAlaya pAse pahoMcyAM tyAre tyAM eka jIpa UbhI hatI paNa e amAre mATe nahi hoya ema, enI dayA Ave evI jarjarita hAlata joIne lAgyuM. emAM koI DrAivara paNa nahoto. ame rAha jotAM thoDe Aghe rAkhelA bAMkaDAo upara beThAM. haju paroDhanuM ajavALuM thayuM nahotuM. battIo hatI paNa enA ajavALAmAM karakasara hatI. ziyALAnI ThaMDaka adaba vALavA pharaja pADatI hatI. thoDI vAre paMdarasoLa varSano lAgato zyAma varNano eka aTako chokaro amArI pAse Avyo. eNe pUchyuM. "sA'ba, Apa khajurAho javAnAM cho ?' hA; tane koNe kahyuM ?' Apa badhAM savArI jevAM lAgo cho eTale. Apa jIpamAM javAnAM chone ?' "hA, ame amArI jIpanI rAha joIe chIe." jIpa to A AvI gaI che, sA'ba. A jIpamAM ja javAnuM che. besavA mAMDo." AvI bhaMgAra jIpamAM? ane eno DrAivara kyAM che ?" huM ja DrAivara chuM, sA'ba." 'tuM DrAivara che ?' ame traNacAra jaNa ekasAthe bolI UThyAM. DrAivara nahi paNa enA helpara ke klInara jevA lAgatA chokarAnI vAtamAM amane bharoso na beTho. koI ajANyAnI sAthe phasAI na jaIe eTale ame vadhu vAta karavAnuM TALyuM. ame UbhAM na thayAM eTale amArA avizvAsanI gaMdha e pArakhI gayo. koIkanA gharAka laI bIjo ja koI jIpavALo cAlyo jAya evI ghaTanA kyAM nathI banatI ? eTale rAha jovAmAM ja DahApaNa che ema amane lAgyuM. chokaro potAnI jIpa pAse jaIne Ubho rahyo. ame vAte vaLagyAM. jIpanI rAha jotAM jotAM to poNo kalAka thaI gayo. bIjI koI jIpa AvI nahi. amArI adhIrAI vadhI. kAryAlaya baMdha hatuM. ame mAMhomAMhe vicAra karyo ke dhAro ke bIjI koI jIpa have na ja Ave to zuM karavuM? khajurAho javA mATe to Ajano ja divasa che. samaya kapAto jAya che. kAM to A jIpamAM besIe ane kAM to pAchAM jaIe. "jIpa bhale bhaMgAra dekhAya, ApaNe kyAM koIne batAvavuM che ? eke kahyuM. paNa e kharekhara DrAivara che ke hAMke che ?' bIjAe kahyuM.
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 'enI sAthe vAta to karI joIe,' trIjAe sUcavyuM. meM bUma mArI, 'eya chokarA, zuM nAma tAruM ?' 'rAmazaraNa, sA'ba', kahetokane pAse Avyo. 'keTalAM varasa thayAM tane ?' 'ekavIsa... paNa huM baTako chuM eTale koI mAnatuM nathI.' 'keTalA vakhatathI DrAiviMga kare che ? lAisansa che tArI pAse ?' 144 'jI, sA'ba, cha mahinAthI.' eNe jIpamAMthI lAvIne potAnuM lAisansa batAvyuM. te sAcuM hatuM. 'AvI kharAba hAlatamAM gADI kema che ?' 'ahIM citrakUTamAM jIpa to AvI ja maLe. navI gADI amane garIbane kyAMthI posAya ? satanA ke jabalapuramAM evI maLe.' 'A jIpa amAre mATe ja che enI khAtarI zI ?' maeNnejara sAhebe mane ja varadI ApI che. bIjAne ApI hota to bIjI jIpa Avata.' 'jo, ame tArI jIpamAM besIe paNa paisA maeNneja2ne ApIzuM. ane tAruM DrAiviMga barAbara nahi lAge to UtarI jaIzuM. che kabUla tane ?' 'jI, sA'ba.' ame javAno nirNaya karyo. badhAM mitroe mane kahyuM, 'ramaNabhAI, tame AgaLa DrAivaranI bAjunI sITamAM beso. tame DrAiviMga jANo cho eTale enA DrAiviMganI tamane khabara paDaze.' amArI maMDaLImAM badhAM judA judA nAme oLakhAtAM. emAM lAyansa kalabanA lAyanabhAIe kahyuM, 'dekha rAmazaraNa, tAruM DrAiviMga barAbara nahi hoya to amArA A sAheba tane uThADIne khajurAho sudhI gADI pote calAvI leze.' rAmazaraNa hasI paDyo. ame jIpamAM goThavAvA lAgyAM. huM AgaLa beTho. pAchaLa sAmasAme rAkhelI be pATalImAM cAra cAra jaNa dabAIne besI zake ema hatAM. vacce vadhArAnuM TAyara hatuM. rAmazaraNe lAkaDAnuM eka khokhuM mUkI badhAMne caDavAmAM madada karI. 'tame sArAM kapaDAM paherIne kema AvyAM ?' evI phariyAda jANe jIpa karatI hatI. enA patarAMnA aNIdAra khUNA vastramAM bharAvA mATe utsAhI hatA. caDhatAM-UtaratAM vastrasaMkocananI kalAno Azraya na lenArane pastAvuM paDe ema hatuM. rAmazaraNe potAnI sITa lIdhI. te garIba hato paNa dekhAve sughaDa hato. e
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________________ khajurAho 145 vahelI savAre paNa snAna karIne Avyo hato, e enA mAthAnA bhInA caLakatA kALA vALa parathI dekhAtuM hatuM. eNe kapALamAM karelo kaMkuno moTo cAMllo enI dharmazraddhAne pragaTa karato hato. enI vANImAM garIbInI naramAza hatI. eNe pahereluM lAla raMganuM sveTara dUrathI ene zodhI kADhavAmAM madadarUpa thAya evuM hatuM. eNe dhUpasaLI saLagAvI ane sAme rAkhelI, rAma, sItA, lakSmaNa ane hanumAnanI chabI AgaLa pheravIne eka kANAmAM bharAvI. jIpamAM sugaMdha prasarI rahI. be hAtha joDI eNe prArthanA karI. ame paNa amAro navakAramaMtra bolI prArthanA karI lIdhI. Aje to enI khAsa jarUra hatI. rAmazaraNa bolyo, "cAlIzuM sA'ba ?" hA, paNa pahelAM keTalA kilomITara che te noMdhI laIe', ema kahIne meM mArA khissAmAMthI DAyarI ane pena kADhaDhyAM. kilomITara noMdhavAnI kaMI jarUra nathI, sAheba. khajurAhonuM aMtara jANItuM che.' hA, to paNa noMdhI levuM sAruM. amane aMdAja to Ave." 'paNa mITa2 bagaDI gayuM che.' "bagaDI gayuM che ? evuM te kema cAle ? tAre ane amAre kaMI vAMdho paDyo to ?' nahi paDe, sA'ba. gAmanI bahAra nIkaLatAM ja huM tamane mAIlasTona batAvI daIza. Apa oNphisamAM pUchIne paisA Apajo. e lokonuM A rojanuM kAma che.' rAmazaraNe sTIyariMga nIce laTakatA be vAyara be hAthamAM laIne aDADyA ane gADIe 'DrAuM DrAu' karyuM. are, AvI rIte gADI sTArTa kare che ? cAvI nathI ?' cAvI bagaDI gaI che, sA'ba.' to to koI paNa mANasa AvI rIte calAvIne tArI gADI upADI jaI zake." "hA, paNa ene calAvatAM phAve nahi. thoDe jaIne choDI devI paDe evI A gADI che." gADI gAmabahAra nIkaLatAM rAmazaraNe satanAno mAIlasTona batAvyo. amAre satanA thaIne khajurAho javAnuM hatuM. vaLI, mAruM dhyAna jatAM meM kahyuM, "bhAI rAmazaraNa, tAruM spIDomITara paNa cAlatuM nathI. kyAranuM jhIro upara ja che." e paNa bagaDeluM che. paNa ApaNane enI jarUra nathI. huM gADI vadhAre bhagAvato nathI. ahIM amArA ema. pI. (madhyapradeza)mAM rastA eTalA kharAba ane khADAvALA che ke koI icche to paNa cAlIsa-pistAlIsanI upara bhagAvI na zake." citrakUTathI satanAne raste kazo TrAphika nahoto. Apa potAnI gatie cAlavA
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________________ 146 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 lAgI. rAmazaraNanuM DrAiviMga vyavasthita hatuM. eka bahene bhajananI keseTa vagADavA mane pahelethI ApI rAkhI hatI te pAchI ApatAM meM kahyuM, "lo tamArI keseTa pAchI. bhajana sAMbhaLavAM hoya to have jAte ja gAvAM paDaze." gADI barAbara layamAM cAlatAM vahelAM UThelAM keTalAMka mitronAM mastaka savAranI zItaLatAmAM samatulA gumAvavA lAgyAM hatAM. DrAivaranA hAthapaga uparAMta enuM moTuM paNa cAlatuM (khAtuM ke vAto karatuM) rahe to enAM nayanone ALasa na Ave e mATe meM ene cokaleTa ApI ane vAte vaLagADyo. vAtacItamAM jANavA maLyuM ke e citrakUTamAM ja rahe che. pitA gujarI gayA che. mA lokonuM gharakAma karIne gujarAna calAve che. traNa bhAIbahenamAM pote sauthI moTo che. khAsa kaMI bhaNyo nathI. enA eka vaDIla paDozI moTara mikenika che. ene tyAM pAMceka varSa kAma karIne pote gADI ripera karavAno sAro anubhava lIdho che. DrAiviMga to bagaDelI ane ripera karelI gADIonI TrAyala letAM letAM ja zIkhI javAyuM che. pachI lAisansa maLatAM bhADe jIpa pheravavAnuM mana thayuM. e paDozI mikenika ja vyAje paisA apAvyA ane potAne tyAM ripera thavA AvelI A khakhaDI gayelI jUnI jIpa vecAtI laI ApI. cha mahinAthI bhADe pheravavAnuM cAlu karyuM che. lAMbI varadI na hoya to pote AjubAjunAM gAmaDAMnI herApherA kare che. je maLe temAMthI lonanA haptA bhare che. potAnI zAdI thaI gaI che paNa vahu haju nAnI che eTale ghare rahevA AvI nathI. rAmazaraNe potAnI gAmaThI hiMdI bolImAM karelI nikhAlasa vAtomAM bhAratanAM asaMkhya garIba kuTuMbonI karamakahANIno paDagho saMbhaLAto hato. have satanA najIka AvI rahyuM hatuM. sAmethI haju eka paNa moTaragADI AvI nahotI. koI koI grAmINa mANaso rastAmAM barAbara vacce cAlatA hatA. horna vagADavA mATe meM rAmazaraNane kahyuM to e bolyo, "hornanI jarUra nathI. jIpanA khakhaDATa avAjathI ja mANaso AghA khasI jAya che.' e sAMbhaLIne amArAmAMnA eke kaTAkSamAM kahyuM, "alyA, paradezamAM to anivArya hoya to ja horna vagADAya che, paNa tuM to emanA karatAMya AgaLa vadhI gayo. jarUra hoya to paNa tuM horna nathI vagADato." rAmazaraNe mAtra smita karyuM, paNa AgaLa jatAM eka vaLAMka pAse gADI ekadama potAnI najIka AvI jatAM mANasone bhAgavuM paDyuM tyAre ame ciDAyAM : "haoNrna vagADatAM tane takalIpha zI paDe che ?' chevaTe eNe mauna toDyuM, "horna cAlatuM nathI.' "tuM ? haoNrna nathI cAlatuM ? to pachI gADI kevI rIte calAvAya ? koI vAra akasmAta thaI jAya." ame cintA ane kheda anubhavyAM. rAmazaraNa lAcArIthI zAMta rahyo. ame satanA vaTAvI khajurAhonA raste AgaLa vadhyAM. DuMgarALa pradezamAM rasto
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________________ khajurAho 147 UMce caDato jato hato. citrakUTathI nIkaLyAMne amane vAra thaI hatI. eTale sAthe lIdhelAM cApANIno vakhata thayo hato. eka sArI jagyA jaNAtAM eka bAju gADI UbhI rAkhavA rAmazaraNane meM kahyuM. eNe eka jhaTakA sAthe gADI UbhI rAkhI. acAnaka AMcako AvatAM badhAM barADI UThyAM. huM kAraNa samajI gayo hato. rAmazaraNe mane kahyuM, 'tame acAnaka UbhI rAkhavAnuM kahyuM eTale giyara badalIne gADI UbhI rAkhI. breka jarA DhIlI che, pampiMga karavuM (be-traNa vakhata breka dabAvavI) paDe che.' 'heM ?' badhAM coMkI UThyAM, 'AvI gADI tArAthI calAvAya ja kema ? tuM to amArA jAna jokhamamAM mUkI deze.' mAsIbAe kahyuM, 'pahelethI khabara hota to tArI gADImAM besata nahi. paisA pUrA levA ane gADImAM kaMI ThekANuM nahi.' rAmazaraNe kahyuM, 'mAtAjI ! gabharAva nahi. amane mikenika lokone game tevI kharAba gADI calAvatAM phAve.' mArA abhiprAya pramANe to rAmazaraNa hiMmatathI, pUrA vizvAsathI, sAvacetIpUrvaka gADI calAvato hato, paNa amArAM mitronA zvAsa adhdhara thaI jatA hatA. ame cA-pANI lIdhAM ane rAmazaraNane paNa ApyAM. amArAmAM gusapusa vAta cAlI. eke kahyuM, 'ApaNe bhADuM pUrepUruM na ApavuM. maeNnejare ApaNane vAta kahevI joIe.' bIjAe kahyuM, 'bhADuM bhale pUruM ApIe, paNa bakSisane lAyaka to e nathI ja.' moTAbhAIe kahyuM, 'khajurAhothI maLatI hoya to bIjI jIpa karI laIe. bhale Ano pUro cArja Apavo paDe.' 'khajurAhothI bIjI jIpa na maLI to ? ApaNe atyAre AnI sAthe jhaghaDo karavo nahi.' bhAbhI bolyAM. ame jIpamAM beThAM ane khajurAhonA raste AgaLa cAlyAM. koIke kahyuM, 'bhAI rAmazaraNa, atyAre to ame tAre zaraNe chIe.' mAsIbAe kahyuM, 'sAcavIne calAvaje beTA, amAre upara javAnI utAvaLa nathI.' ame khajurAho pahoMcyAM. UMcAIe AvelA A vizALa medAnI vistAranI havA ja judI hatI. AThaso-hajAra varSa pahelAMnuM saMskArasamRddha aitihAsika vAtAvaraNa ahIM dhabakatuM hatuM. jIpa kyAM UbhI haze, amAre kyAM maLavuM vagere vIgato rAmazaraNa sAthe nakkI karI, ame eka bhomiyo laIne maMdiro jovA cAlyAM. khajurAhomAM pravezadvAra AgaLanA mukhya mArganI DAbI bAjunA, pazcima dizAnA vizALa saMkulamAM
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________________ 148 pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 jovAlAyaka mukhya mukhya maMdiro che. jamaNI bAju pUrva dizAmAM jarAka Aghe thoDAMka maMdiro che, jemAM jaina maMdiro mukhya che. amAro bhomiyo hoziyAra ane jANakAra hato. amArI samayamaryAdA eNe samajI lIdhI hatI. eNe kahyuM ke, 'I. sa. 900thI I. sa. 1150 sudhInA, Azare aDhIso varSanA gALAmAM khajurAho caMdelA vaMzanA caMdravarmana, harSavartana, yazovarmana, dhanyadevavartana, vidyAdha2varmana, kIrtivarmana vagere rAjAonuM pATanagara hatuM. samRddhino e kALa hato. tyAre ahIM 85 jeTalAM maMdiro baMdhAyAM hatAM. temAMthI hAla bAvIsa jeTalAM maMdiro rahyAM che. dhArmika sahiSNutAno e yuga haze kAraNa ke ahIM viSNumaMdiro, zivamaMdiro, sUryamaMdira, cosaTha yoginIonuM maMdira ane hanumAnajInuM maMdira che. ahIM jaina maMdiro che ane eka khakharA maThamAM bhagavAna buddhanI pratimA paNa hatI, je have purAtattva saMgrahAlayamAM che.' khajurAho zabda 'khajuravAhaka' parathI Avyo che. A maMdironA zilAlekhomAM 'khajurAvAhaka' zabdano nirdeza che. kavi caMda baradAIkRta 'pRthvIrAja rAso'mAM 'khajurapurA' athavA 'khajanipura' nAmano ullekha che. e jamAnAmAM ahIM khajUrInAM vRkSa bahu thatAM hatAM. tyAre samRddhi eTalI badhI hatI ke pATanagaranA mukhya pravezadvAranA baMne staMbhonI AkRti sone maDhelAM khajUrInAM vRkSonI hatI. pahelAM ame pazcima bAjumAM, mataMgezvara, lakSmaNa, pArvatI, vizvanAtha, kaMdAriyA mahAdeva vagere maMdiro joyAM. keTalAMka jhaDapathI joyAM to keTalAMka vIgate. A maMdironI sthApatyakalA, kalAvidonA matAnusAra uttara bhAratanI nAgarazailInA utkRSTa namUnArUpa gaNAya che. keTalAMkamAM aMdara ardhamaMDapa, mahAmaMDapa, aMtarAla, garbhagRha ane pradakSiNApatha evA pAMca vibhAga che. keTalAMka maMdironAM zikharo khAssAM UMcAM che. A maMdiromAM 'lakSmaNa maMdira' vastuta: bhagavAna viSNunuM maMdira che. rAjA yazovarmane e baMdhAveluM che. rAjAnuM bIjuM nAma lakSmaNavarmana hatuM eTale 'lakSmaNa maMdira' nAma paDI gayuM. khajurAhonAM maMdiromAM A maMdira uttuMga, vizALa, suvyavasthita ane paurANika prasaMgonI zilpAkRtiothI sabhara che. khajurAho janAre A maMdira avazya jovA jevuM che. ema manAya che ke A maMdira baMdhAvavA mATe rAjAe mathurAthI soLa hajAra zilpIone bolAvyA hatA ane maMdira bAMdhatAM sAta varSa lAgyAM hatAM. lakSmaNa maMdira, vizvanAtha maMdira vagerenA bahAranA bhAgamAM jovA maLatI mithuna-zilpAkRtio paryaTakonuM dhyAna kheMcI evI che. madhyayugamAM samagra bhAratamAM maMdiromAM kAmazilpanI jANe ke eka praNAlikA thaI gaI hatI. gujarAta-rAjasthAnathI orissAmAM koNArka sudhI ane nepAlathI dakSiNamAM madurA sudhI AvI kAmabhoganI zilpAkRtio jovA maLe che. dharmasthAnakomAM AvI zRMgAraceSTAo laukika dRSTithI,
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________________ khajurAho 149 taTastha kalAdRSTithI, rahasyasabhara yogadRSTithI ema vibhinna rIte nihALAya che. emAM prajAjIvananuM naitika adhaHpatana pratibiMbita thayuM che ke e AdhyAtmika unnatinI nizAnI che e vize mImAMsakomAM matabheda rahevAnA. vIjaLI na paDe, koInI najara na lAge, asurothI surakSita rahe, vidharmIo khaMDita na kare, paraMparA toDatAM zilpIo Dare ityAdi kAraNo uparAMta taMtravidyAnI rekhAkRtione ane rahasyone zRMgAraceSTAomAM gupta rIte gUMthI levAmAM AvI che ke je phakta enA adhikArI ja samajI zake, evAM kAraNa paNa apAya che. khajurAho taMtravidyAnuM ane sAdhanAnuM moTuM kendra haze ema ahIM AvelA cosaTha yoginInA maMdira uparathI manAya che. pazcima bAjunAM maMdiro joI ame pUrva bAjunAM keTalAMka maMdiro joyAM. emAM AdinAtha, zAMtinAtha ane pArzvanAtha e traNa jaina maMdiro mukhya che. jaina maMdiromAM nagna zilpAkRtio ekaMdare nathI. pArzvanAtha maMdiramAM tarata najare na paDe evI eka apavAdarUpa nAnI kRti che. zAMtinAtha bhagavAnanA maMdiramAM pUjApAThanI paraMparA cAlu che eTale ame tyAM darzana-caityavaMdanAdi karyAM. maMdiro jovAno amAro kAryakrama pUro thayo. eka divasa ocho paDe to paNa mukhya maMdirono sAmAnya paricaya maLI gayo. have paga thAkyA hatA ane bhUkha paNa lAgI hatI. niyata karelA resTorAMmAM ame pahoMcyAM. sAthe lIdhelA alpAhArano paNa upayoga karyo. bIjI jIpa ka2vAnI zakyatA jaNAI nahi. amArAM gapATAM cAlatAM hatAM tyAM rAmazaraNa Avyo. eNe bhojanaArAma karI lIdhAM hatAM. eNe kahyuM, 'sAheba, jarA utAvaLa rAkhajo, kAraNa ke have rastAmAM ja rAta paDI jaze. cAMdanI rAta che eTale vAMdho nathI paNa jaMgala ane pahADIonA AdivAsI pradezamAMthI ApaNe pasAra thavAnuM che. rAtre koI vAra lUMTanA banAva paNa bane che.' rAmazaraNa gayo. amArI vinodabharI vAto cAlatI hatI tyAM lUMTAvAnI vAta AvatAM ame sAvadha thaI gayAM. thelA, pAkITa khabhe bharAvavA lAgyAM. moTA bhAIe kahyuM, 'koI lUMTavA Ave to sauthI pahelI naja2 mArA A moMghAmUlA ghaDiyALa upara ja paDe. vaLI, eno paTTo sAva sonAno che. huM to atyArathI ja kADhIne khissAmAM mUkI dauM chuM.' ekanI AvI vAtano cepa bIjAne lAge ja. eTale badhAMe potAnAM ghareNAM salAmata sthAne saMtADI dIdhAM, e joIne mAsIbA bolyAM, 'tame tamArAM ghareNAM saMtADI dIdhAM eTale lUMTanAranI najara to mArA para ja paDe ne ? mArI eka eka kereTanA siMgala hIrAnI kAnanI buTTI tarata najare paDe evI nathI, paNa lUMTanArano bharoMso zo ?' 'hA, have to muA kAnanI bUTa ja kApI le che.' bIjI bahene kahyuM.
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________________ pAsapaoNrTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 'pahelethI khabara hota to paherata ja nahi.' ema kahI mAsIbAe buTTIno peca kholavA mAMDyo. 150 'ahIM rastAmAM zuM kAma kADho cho ? jIpamAM besIne zAMtithI kADhajone. koI vAra hAthamAMthI sarakI paDe.' tyAM to hAtha joI Amatema phAMphAM mAratAM mAsIbA bolyAM, 'lo, tame kahyuM evuM ja thayuM. buTTI hAthamAMthI sarakI paDI lAge che.' mAsIbA gaMbhIra banI gayAM. amArA paga aTakI gayA. sau vAMkA vaLI buTTI zodhavA lAgI gayAM. paNa pariNAma zUnya. mAsIbAnuM moDhuM gamagIna banI gayuM. Ajano divasa ja evo Ugyo che.' ema kahI bIjI bahene AzvAsana ApyuM. ThIka ThIka vAra lAgI eTale rAmazaraNa AvI pahoMcyo. vAta thatAM te paNa zodhamAM joDAyo, paNa kazuM vaLyuM nahi. moDuM thatuM jatuM hatuM paNa bIjAthI kema bolAya ? vAta gaMbhIra hatI. mAsIbA kaMI kahe enI ja rAha jovAvA lAgI. chevaTe e bolyAM, 'cAlo tyAre, have nahi maLe. bhagavAnane gamyuM te kharuM.' sau jIpa pAse pahoMcyAM. badhAM goThavAyAM eTale jIpa citrakUTanA raste cAlI. pazcimamAM sUryAsta thaI jatAM sonerI ajavALuM pUruM thayuM ane pUrvamAM caMdrodaya thatAM rUperI ajavALuM prasaravA lAgyuM. prAkRtika vAtAvaraNa kavitA prere evuM hatuM paNa buTTInI ghaTanA ane have rAtano Dara - ethI amArAM mana UMcaka hatAM. Akhe raste koI gADInI avarajavara nahotI. baMne bAju thoDe thoDe samaye nAnAM nAnAM AdivAsI-gAmomAM sAMjanI rasoI mATenAM saLagatAM lAkaDAMnA dhumADA UMce UDI rahyA hatA. ajavALuM AchuM hatuM eTale jIpanI lAiTa cAlu karavA meM rAmazaraNane kahyuM, paNa eNe javAba Apyo, 'sA'ba lAiTa cAlatI nathI. mane cokhkhuM dekhAya che. vaLI, lAiTa cAlatI hoya to paNa na karavI sArI. lAiTa hoya to A lokone dUrathI khabara paDe ke koIka gADI Ave che.' 'paNa aMdhAruM Ave tyAM zuM karavuM ? lAiTa to hovI joIe ne ?' eTaluM huM boluM tyAM to kharekhara aMdhAruM AvyuM. caMdra DuMgaranI pAchaLa DhaMkAI gayo hato. rAmazaraNe potAnI pAse rAkhelI TaoNrca jamaNA hAthamAM laI, hAtha bahAra kADhI rastA para lAiTa mArI. kahe, 'amAre A rojano rasto che. badhA vaLAMkanI khabara hoya.' vacce eNe TUMko rasto lIdho. UtarANavALo rasto hato. peTrola bace ane jhaDapa vadhatAM samaya paNa bace. citrakUTanA pAdaramAM AvatAM rastA paranI battIo joIne ame tanAvamukti anubhavI. hemakhema pAchAM pharyAM. have jIpanI lAiTano nahi, haoNrnano prazna hato,
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________________ khajurAho 151 kAraNa ke rastA upara lokonI avarajavara ghaNI hatI. paraMtu e mATe rAmazaraNa pAse eno potAno upAya hato. pAse rAkhelo eka daMDo hAthamAM laI bahAra jIpanA bAraNA upara jorathI te ThapakArato jAya ane jarUra paDe to DokuM bahAra kADhIne rADa pADato jAya. aMte ame mukAma para pahoMcI gayAM. lAkaDAnuM khokhuM mUkI rAmazaraNe badhAMne utAryA. jIpanA bhADAnI rakama bIje divase kAryAlayamAM cUkavavAnI sUcanA ApI, bhaMgAra jIpanA vasamA pravAsa mATe kSamA mAgI, buTTI mATe dilasojI darzAvI, badhAMne laLIlaLIne caraNavaMdana karI rAmazaraNe vidAya lIdhI. eka jokhamI pravAsa pUro thayo paNa mArA manamAM anuciMtana cAlyuM ke amAruM jokhama to eka divasa pUratuM hatuM, paraMtu potAnuM astitva TakAvI rAkhavA mATe gAmaDAMnA garIba mANasone roja kevuM jokhamI jIvana jIvavuM paDe che ! AkhA divasanA anubhavo vAgoLatAM ame nidrAdhIna thayAM. bIje divase savAre cA-pANI, snAnAdithI paravArIne nava lAge kAryAlaya khUle eTale hisAba mATe ame nIkaLyAM. badhAMne AvavAnI jarUra nahotI topaNa badhAnA mata pUchI lIdhA. keTalIka vAra ghaTanA bane tyAre pratyAghAto jeTalA ugra hoya che teTalA pachI nathI rahetA. jIpa mATe phariyAda karavI ke na karavI, bhADuM ochuM karAvavuM ke na karAvavuM, DrAivarane bakSisa ApavI ke na ApavI ane ApavI to keTalI ApavI vagere vize amArA abhinivezo maMda paDyA hatA. meM to rAmazaraNanA bahAdurIbharyA DrAiviMganI prazaMsA ja karI. ame kAryAlayamAM dAkhala thayAM ke menejare kahyuM, "bAvo, beso. tamArI rAha joIne rAmazaraNa hamaNAM ja gayo. acAnaka eka varadI ene maLI gaI. e tamArA mATe kazuMka Apato gayo che.' ema kahI emaNe TebalanA khAnAmAMthI chApAnA kAgaLanA TukaDAnuM vALeluM nAnuM paDIkuM ApyuM. "zuM che ? koI prasAda che ? "hA, prasAda ja kahevAya.' paDIkuM kholatAM ja e joIne mAsIbA bolI UThyAM, "are, A to mArI buTTI. hAza... bhagavAna. paNa e rAmazaraNane kevI rIte maLI ?' savAre ahIM AvI e jIpa sApha karato hato tyAM ene maLI." paNa jIpamAM kevI rIte hoya?' mAsIbAne Azcarya thayuM. bIjI bahene kahyuM, "mane lAge che, mAsIbA, ke buTTI tamArA hAthamAMthI sarakIne
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________________ 15ra pAsaporTanI pAMkhe - bhAga 3 sADImAM phasAI gaI haze ane pachI jIpamAM besatAM-UThatAM nIce paDI gaI haze. e ja eka zakyatA lAge che." mAsIbA bhAvavibhora thaI gayAM. A AnaMdanA samAcAra bIjA mitrone pahoMcADavA badhAM utsuka thaI gayAM. jIpano hisAba cUkate thayo. karavA dhArelI phariyAdo ogaLI gaI. ApavA dhArelI bakSisa premapUrvaka akathya vRddhi pAmI ane emAM mAsIbAe mAtabara rakama umerIne menejarane kahyuM, "A mArA taraphathI rAmazaraNane Apajo ane kahejo ke gADI sarakhAM karAvavA mATe ja A ApI che.' ame utAre pAchA pharyA. vAtAvaraNa utsava jevuM banI gayuM. garIba mANaso paNa kevA ImAnadAra hoya che enI prazaMsA thaI. ame bapore citrakUTathI nIkaLI satanAthI muMbaI jatI Trena pakaDavAnAM hatAM eTale rAmazaraNane maLavAnI koI zakyatA nahotI. pharIthI maLavAnuM kyAreya thayuM nathI, paNa khajurAhonI vAta nIkaLatAM rAmazaraNanI jIpa ane enuM DrAiviMga yAda AvyA vagara rahetAM nathI.
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________________ EPUBLIC OF INDI W eiCountry Code IND /Surname mam S ALL RAMANLAY Nationality INTAN se zimem Place of BPACE 7 nI ma000 900 a r das Pue mandler alt elu lonte of Expo 900 /7< 75 22009 h PASSENGER TICKET AND BAGGAGE CHECK CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS LIMIT SHARYRAMANCAL MR X HONG KONG BEIJING CX NONENDO TG-3573867E0nAF11 - 3 TUTB0+ [y SHE IR PE15575.717/GH (1517.c&ER PUE+E,581 NR 321 35 SOOFT 2006 h8HE 16090199 185 pATalIpApo bhAga bhAga - ramaNalAla vI. zAha Mari Education International