Indian Antiquary Vol 62

Author(s): Richard Carnac Temple, Charles E A W Oldham, S Krishnaswami Aiyangar, Devadatta Ramkrishna Bhandarka
Publisher: Swati Publications

Page 105

MAY, 1933)
ON ANCIENT TRACKS PAST THE PAMIRS
From Termez, where traffic coming from Balkh and its modern successor as a tradecentre, Mazar-i-Sharif, usually crosses the Oxus, an easy route up the Surkhan river brings the traveller to the wide and fertile plain in the centre of the Hisar tract. In this we may safely recognize the plain country' which the ravine mentioned by Marinus' authority adjoins.33 In the comparatively narrow main valley of Kara-tegfn, stretching for some 155 miles from Ab-i-garm, where the regular road from the Hisar side enters it, up to Daraut. kurghân, where the Alai is reached, there is more than one defile by the river. But it is practicable for laden transport, even camels, throughout, and owing to its plentiful agricultural produce offers a convenient line of communication. Then below Daraut-kurghan, now the highest village on the Kizil-su, the valley opens out into the great Pâmîr-like valley of the Alni. It is in the vicinity of Daraut-kurghân, where cultivation is carried on at an elevation of about 8000 feet and where I found a Russian post in the place of a former fort, that we may place the Stone Tower' where, according to Marinus, the traveller arrives after having ascended the ravine.34
It is there that those following the route now towards Kashgar would have to take their food supplies for their onward journey. But I noted in 1915 patches of recent or old cultivation for fully 27 miles above Daraut-kurghân up to an elevation of about 9000 feet. The Alai valley in general physical character resembles a Pamîr, being an open trough with a width at its floor nowhere less than six miles. But owing to its lower elevation, from about 8000 feet at Daraut-kurghân to not more than 11,200 feet at the Taun-murun saddle as ita eastern end, and owing to a somewhat moister climate, the steppe vegetation is here far more ample than on the Pamîrs. In consequence the Alai forms, or, until the Soviet régime, formed, a favourite summer grazing ground for very numerous camps of Kirghiz nomads.
33 For a summary of the topographical facts supporting this tracing of the route, see Innermost Asia, loc. cit.
94 I believe, ve may recognize some evidence of the location of the plain country' reported by Maës' agents in the distance which the passage of Ptolemy (I. xii. 8) undoubtedly on their authority indicates immediately before quoting the words of Marinus (v. p. 92): “When the traveller had ascended the ravine he arrives at the Stone Tower," etc. Ptolemy refers here to certain bends in Lue route after it has entered the mountainous country of the Komédoi and then states that "while (generally) advancing to the east it straight turns off to the south and thence probably takes a northerly turn for fifty schoene up to the Stone Tower."
I have already, in Innermost Asia, ii, p. 850, hinted at my belief that the point where the plain coun. try is left for the ravine has to be sought for near Ab-i-germ, a large village reached from Faizabad in the easternmost portion of the open Higâr tract, by one march along the caravan route leading to the main valley of Kara tegin. Now from Ab-i.garm this route, which from Faizabad has so far followed a northeasterly line across down-like country, turns sharply to the soth-east into a narrow valley in order to reach some four miles lower down the right bank of the Surkh-ab, which it thence ascende in a north-easteriy direction to Daraut-kurghan.
It is near Ab-i-garm that I believe we must place the point where the plain country' adjoins the ravine. For this Assumption there is support in the distance which is mentioned between this point and the Stone Tower. Measured on the French General Staff's 1: 1,000,000 map of Asia (File 40° N. 72o E) based on the Russian surveys the distance from Ab-i-garm to Daraut-kurghan is about 158 English milee. Accepting the equation of 30 stadia to the schoenos (ace VI. xi. 4) and reckoning the station at 6063 English feet or approximately one-eighth of an English mile, this brings us close enough to the measurement of circa 190 miles recorded by Maës' agents, if due allowance is made for the necessary excess of the marching distance in hilly country over the map distance.
I may add that the meaning of Ptolemy's passage in MoCrindle's translation is somewhat obscured by the too literal rendering of some of the words, unavoidable at a time when the configuration of the ground could not yet receive adequate attention. What must be regretted most is that Ptolemy hae not preserved for us throughout the actual text of bis predecessor,