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162
THE INDIAN ANTIQUARY.
In Kumaon the Jaina influence shows itself in the vimána, or square temple. Here the worship is of Siva and the linga and bull, although I am bound to say this is very much neglected. There, or crossing the hills by Gangutri to the Baspâ and Karnâwar valleys, we come to a strange mixture of Buddhism and Lama-worship. But more of this hereafter. Almost every village has some sacred spot, where prayer is wont to be made, be it much or little frequented on ordinary occasions, and must have a temple or building of some kind.
There are also many forts on the Baspâ and Satlej rivers. These are merely keeps perched on some high rock, and most commonly built of stones and timber in alternate layers, like so many of the houses. They are of many storeys, with but few windows, and the only wonder is how they contrive to hold together. All are commanded by heights near, and, although looking formidable from below, are of no real strength. In fact they are now but residences of the headmen of the villages in which they are placed, or rather which have grown up at their feet for the sake of their protection.
[JUNE, 1876.
a cradle in which one is drawn over by a smaller cord. (6) Sometimes this rope is double, as it used to be at Srinagar, and a footway is suspended to it of pieces of bamboo and rope, forming a most shaky and unpleasant footing, and used for man only. (6) But the unsafest bridge I remember was one in which the double rope was constructed of twisted birch twigs, which being old were very rotten, and one took every step in fear. The whole bridge was of birch. The ordinary rope is made from the fine fibre found at the base of some of the Andropogon grasses. (7) The best bridge, which has been introduced by the European, is the light iron suspension bridge. Of these there are many in our territory, and they suit the scenery well.
Roads there are none; there are merely sheep, pony, and cattle tracks. Sometimes, however, a ladder is placed, or sticks are driven into the face of the rock, or steps are even cut in it. This is, however, rare, and laden sheep could not pass by these contrivances. Of course I do not refer to our territory, in which we have very much improved the means of communication.
But there is one most important point, to which I have not yet alluded. This is the bridges. Torrents and ravines abound in every path; hence their constant occurrence. Please to remember that there is no cart-road in the country under notice, and therefore no great breadth or strength is needed. 1st, there is the primitive bridge, consisting of a tree (often a fir) cut down and thrown across. This, worn to a polish and often wet, is very trying to a European, and it is marvellous how sheep and goats cross it. (2) Next I have observed two or three boughs tied together and put across. This is even worse, as being generally very weak. It is, however, only used over very small streams. (3) Over larger streams we have put the single stem, generally a noble tree,-one I measured being over ninety feet in length-flattened on the upper side. (4) Next is the regular sanga, in which beams of timber counterpoised by a heavy lading of stones overlap each other till they nearly meet, when straight pieces are laid across, and all is planked. These are good bridges if well constructed with sound timber, and often last many years. (5) We next have a simple rope hanging high over the river, to which is fixed See the accompanying plate
But few know how that, within a very limited distance from our hill settlements, polyandry prevails. I had heard of it, and as I passed from village to village on the banks of the Satlej near to the confines of Chinese Tatary I looked out for it. I did not, however, actually meet with it till I had passed Morang, at the village of Nisang. I will therefore quote from my diary a little about these villages and their people:
"July 17.-Leaving, behind me one tent, two servants, half my flock, and all heavy baggage, I started for the frontier of Tibet. The path wound along the steep and somewhat bare mountain-side, until after three miles some fields swarming with pigeons came in sight, proclaiming the vicinity of a village, which proved to be Porabni, a small collection of houses, over many of which, by way of standard, floated-attached to a pole-a yak's tail, or chauri. After a rest we here commenced a most villainous climb over a smooth face of rock, and then a descent to my halting-place, Rîbâ, a cluster of villages containing above 180 houses. On a terrace before the temple, commanding a beautiful view, my tent was pitched. On my right was the river Satlej, far below, with rocks for examples of these bridges.