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JUNE 7, 1872.]
THE MUHARRAM.
165
THE MUHARRAM. A SHIAH HOUSE OF MOURNING IN MADRAS.
BY CHARLES E. GOVER, M.R.A.S., &c.
W H ILE the outward signs of the Muhar- their people are very prejudiced, tell us the
V ram, as they are noticed by a European, reason of our imprisonment. We protest that are those of the extravagant festivity of an boots are removeable, that we are unwillEastern Carnival, it is known that the Shiahs, ing to hurt the feelings of a houseful of to whom the occasion properly belongs, observe people merely because our rules of politeness are it as a fast and as a time of the deepest mourn- somewhat different from theirs. This wins the ing. The Muharram to them is the anniversary day. In our stocking feet we enter the court, of the foul murder of their revered Imâms, who pass into the middle of the assembly, and wait were cut off at Kert-la by a ruthless usurper. for onr chairs. Then we learn that chairs are The mourning is both public and private; public also tabooed in a sacred place. So down we sit, at the mosque and in the procession, which, tailor-fashion on the mat and carpet that cover where the Sannis permit, passes through the ¡ the floor of the court. streets from Imâmbarah to Imambarah.
The court-yard is large, some thirty feet Many persons have seen the procession ; few square. On the East side is a deep double Jave been permitted to be present at the mosque veranda, on the other three sides ordinary single services. The writer has been honoured with the verandas. The walls are draped with black friendship of influential Shiahs, and was permit- cloth-even the very well in the centre of the ted to view the Muharram rites in every detail, court has its wall draped. On the north and both public and private. The latter were most in- west sides the funeral cloth hangs from the teresting on account of their novelty and the peep front of the veranda, enclosing behind it a sort they afforded into the domestic celebrations of a of long narrow room, where the women hide from community which is perhaps the least known in the men, though able to hear all and see much all India. The service takes place on the last day of the proceedlings. On a sort of frieze that but two of the feast, and is kept strictly private, passes round the walls and also conceals the probably because at this one season alone rugged tile edges of the veranda roof, are does the dignified Muhammalan divest himself written in large characters verses from the more of the solemn decorum which is so marked a favourite song in honour of the martyrs; while habit of the more respectable followers of Islam. on the east wall there hangs a frame enclosMy presence was only permitted after consid- ing the names of the martyrs, their children, erable discussion, and on the distinct under- their mother, and grand-father. This frieze standing that no alteration whatever in the greatly relieves the dim blackness of the place, mode of conducting the service should be made and is aided in this respect by two long narrow in supposed deference to the feelings of a Christ- strips of paper, on which are painted pictures ian stranger.
of the greater tombs of the martyrs in the The place chosen for the ceremony is an Shiah cities of the East. On the northern side ordinary native house, selected for the purpose of the double verande. is a pulpit, if so it may because of its unusually large courtyard and be called, where the preacher merely sits, and deep verandas round it. Enter then with me has no front board. We might better call this house of mourning. The door is guarded it a sort of rude throne; this too is covered by fierce followers of the martyrs, whose busi- from top to bottom with black cloth. In the ness it is to see that none but those who love centre of the east wall is the punja or standard the Imâms are admitted. We are challenged, of the martyrs. It is of peculiar form, having an but a guide pacifies the guards, and leads us with- immense brass, head in the shape of a heart upin,--not into the court where the people are as- side down, and from the apex project the five sembled, but into a close and dingy room from spear heads which give the standard its name. whence we may see the whole proceedings. This In the centre of the brass heart is written & portends a terrible evening for ourselves, and we sentence from the Koran. The lower part of the ask permission to sit with the people in the punja is also hidden in black cloth. Right court. A glance at our shoes and the remark that opposite, in the centre of the west side, is a
