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THE INDIAN ANTIQUARY.
[JULY, 1879.
it adds much to the interest of her work for the an intimacy with two Afghan princes, nephews of general reader.
Dost Muhammad Khân, who had been travelling Dr. Helfer soon found that even domestic felicity in Europe incognito, and were on their way back could not reconcile him to passing his life in the "enthusiastically intent on introducing European routine of medical practice at Prague, and in 1835 culture and manners into their own country." he and his wife started from Trieste for Smyrna, With these gentlemen they travelled to Beirut, on board an Austrian brig. Troubles between the Latakia and Aleppo, at which last place they made captain and crew induced the former to run into
acquaintances with Thahim Pasha, and what is more Syra, which was the scene of a scientific idyll so
important, with some members of the Euphrates amusing that we must give it in Madame Helfer's
expedition, which they eventually joined, riding own words.
over the mountains to Port William on the The beach of Syra, abounding in insects, and
Euphrates where the steamers were being put toespecially in staphylinidæ, was a happy hunting
gether. The Afghan princes proceeded by another ground for entomologists who had for a fortnight
route to Baghdad, and eventually to India, where been chiefly familiar with the cockroaches of a
(the reader will not so much be surprised as Madame coaster'a cabin. "Helfer left it to me and Lotty to
Helfer was to learn) they were promptly reduced catch the staphylinida in butterfly nets, while
to the rank of half-caste swindlers, and appear he sought out the almost invisible but interesting
again in this narrative, once in the prisoners' beetles in sand and moss. In spite of the glowing
dock at Calcutta, and again in a chain-gang at. noonday sun we diligently pursued our fugitive
Tenasserim. The Helfers accompanied General prey, and did not observe at first that we were
Chesney and his comrades to Baghdad, and their being attentively watched. Among the many
narrative of the expedition forms an interesting vessels lying near the shore was an English war
complement to that published by its distinguishschooner, on the deck of which a telescope was
ed chief in 1868. They went on to Bushire, directed to us. The unusual spectacle of ladies at
intending to settle in Persia for a time, but not midday on the beach, running and jumping in the pursuit of insects invisible from the vessel, had
liking the sample of Iran and its inhabitants, which excited the captain's curiosity. We could not be
they got at that port, changed their course to natives, as a matter of course no Greek lady would
Calcutta, calling at Maskat, where Madame Helfer's ever think of walking at this time of day, even if
experiences in the zenana were even more than she ever wandered as far as the shore ; nor would
usually amusing. After some time in Calcutta she over depart from her slow, shuflling gait, least
Dr. Helfer accepted a commission from the Goof all to catch insects on the wing. The young
vernment of India to explore the forests of British seaman who took an interest in other things be
Burma, landed at Maulmain early in 1836, and sides his profession-(not often the case with Eng
was employed on this duty, with head-quarters lishmen, who mostly pursue one thing only, and
latterly at Mergui, until the end of 1838, when he that thoroughly)-soon discovered the motive of
transferred his operations to the islands of tho our singular movements, and was curious to get Bay of Bengal. On the 30th April 1839, he was a nearer view of the ladies collecting insects in this killed by an arrow wound received during an untemperature. He landed, and walked up and
provoked attack made upon his boat's crew by clown, but at a respectful distance. What else the inhabitants of the great Andaman Island. His. could he do, there was no one to introduce us, and
widow returned to Calcutta, and after a short without this indispensable ceremony no English- stay at Darjiling sailed in company with Mr. and man can bring himself to begin an acquaintance." Mrs. Prinsep, landed at Koseir, and crossed the Nadame Helfer's Englishman, however, was equal desert on donkey back to Kenneh on the Nile, so to the occasion, for he guessed that any traveller that she was one of the pioneers of the present of sufficient culture to hunt staphylinidae would overland route as well as of that still in the clouds be certain to visit the school of the ubiquitous of the future. In London she spent some time as American Missionaries, to which accordingly he guest of the Bunsens, which she devoted to obwalked off, and was there introduced to our taining from the Court of Directors a grant of land anthoress as Captain Owen Stanley, (clarum ac at Mergui, and a widow's pension, to which, as venerabile ! women among hydrographers !), and Dr. Helfer had been only in temporary employ, they afterwards became great friends.
she had no regular claim. The Court, however, Our travellers experienced considerable difficul. allowed her £100 a year, which, she was told, she ties in settling at Smyrna, seeing that every house owed to a personal expression of opinion on the had put "the people next door" in quarantine part of Her Majesty the Queen. Be this so or no, for the plague. One of their adventures, which the reader of her spirited and interesting narrative sounds curiously modern, was the formation of will probably think that it was well-spent money.
