Sambodhi 2005 Vol 29

Author(s): J B Shah, N M Kansara
Publisher: L D Indology Ahmedabad

Page 62

54
RAFIQA SULTANA, AFROZ SULTANA
SAMBODHI-PURĀTATTVA
Another sculpture that or Kuber from Vidisha (M.P) wore pleated dhoti like lower garment and a heavy sash at the waist. The torso is nude except for a piece of cloth, the turban which is an important feature of this costume for almost without exception. once again the presence of male head gear connotes an individual's rank. These headgears (turbans) came in numerous stylistic variations.
The male figure of the Srunga period (CA 2nd to 1st century B.C) wore a diaphanous drapery in which the zigzag folds were clearly visible between the legs and along the sides of the legs.
The terracotta female figure of Sunga (CA 2nd Century-1st Century) wore a thin pleated garment over the hips, which then passed through her left leg and culminated on the left shoulder. The sculpture was also adorned with heavy jewellery Apparels of Satavahanas (Ca late 1st century B.C. to 1st century A.D.)
Satvahana dynasty played an important role in dissemination of art styles. The Satvahana culture can be glanced from the great stupas, specially its toran sculptures. The main costumes of this period, males wore dhotis which were up to their knee. The dhotis-one end was tucked at the back and the other end gathered in folds and tucked in front. The dhoti was generally attached to the waist by the kamarbandhs or else tied into a knot. Scarf was used to cover the upper part of the body. Dr Motichandra noticed three different types of scarves i.e.
(1) Made to fall down from the shoulders & passed under armpits. (2) Another style of scarf was to put it around the back and the end being passed
through the armpits & thrown at the back. (3) The scraf is passed across the body & thrown over the left shoulder.
Female Satavahana wrapped loin cloth around the waist and tucked the pleats in front, and the pleated end tucked at the side. They too sometimes wore kamarbandhs.
Women wore orhnis-odhani, it fell at the back of the head. Cloaks were used which invariably covered their left shoulder and left the right breast open, these some times were decorated at its borders. The Brahmin sadhus wore kilt to waist string up to the knee. The upper part of body covered by the cloak and covered the left part of the body leaving the right chest open.