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RAFIQA SULTANA, AFROZ SULTANA
SAMBODHI-PURĀTATTVA
APPARELS OF MIDDLE DYNASTIES (Ca 4th Century A.D. To 12th Century).
Apparels of Gupta period (Ca. 4th century A.D. To.gth century A.D. )
The literature of Chinese travellers shows this period as a golden marked with many political achievements. This period ruled over by many well-known kings like. Samudra Gupta, Chandra Gupta & Sri Harsha. The sculptures, paintings & caves are a standing proof of achievements accomplished during this period. Chinese pilgrims visiting in the 5th century described the clothing materials. A raw type of silks known as 'Kauseya', which was obtained from the cocoons of 'Bombyax Mori.' Yuan Chwang named mslins as "Tieh'. 'Calico' fabric as “Puchu” Line was known as 'Han'. The silk was very durable. In winter a cloth called ‘Nisara' for Tie & Dye Bandhni & Chunri of Gujarat also gained popularity & so did 'Puspatta" which was a kind of brocade from Benares
The dhoti & dupptta were famous during this period. Saree was known as 'Munga' & 'Andy'. During the marriage times people wore unstitched costumes like Dhoti 'Atriaya', Saree Duppatta & chaddar 'Pravara'. Sewed garments of women were known as 'Kola' or the 'Kurpersaks' as named by Kalidas in this literature which was a bodice. Women would wear petticoats of half-length up to their knees as well as upto their thighs; Men and women also wore a shirt which was called 'Chandatka'.
Another sewed garment was known as 'Prapadina', which was up to the feet. The Shawl worn by a woman was called 'Gatarika' & it was knotted between the breasts. Another garment was worn over the left shoulder called Vaikala'. 'Yajnopavita' was like a scarf tied around the body & worn at the time of meditation Bana the great writer described a lady wearing a white or a bleached gown called 'Kanchuka' & under that gown she wore a petticoat of saffron colo
The coins of Samudra Gupta is time show that people wore half sleeves tunics. The king himself wore a trouser, which was of a tight fit & creased similar to a chudidar. A tightly fitted cap covered his head. The other coins also showed full sleves & half sleeves tunics & some of them were made with twisted chords. (Kamarbandh). Chandra Gupta I wore a coat with beaded embroidery on the neck, a tussle row of buttons & fastener in the centre. The trouser worn by him was again creased like Samudhara.
