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CONSUMPTION
129 (patta)," malaya fibres (malaya), bark-fibres73 (parunna or pattunna in the Nisi. cū.), amsuya cloth (amsuya), china silk (cīnāmsuya), coloured cloth (desarāga), spotless cloth" (amila), cloth making rustling noise (gajjaphala), cloth as clear as crystal (phaliya)," "fluffy blanket”78 (koyava), blanket (kambalaga) and mantles pāvāra) ; skin cloth such as made from udra80 (udda), from pesa fur81 (pesa), embroidered with pesa fur (pesala), made from the skin of black deer (kanhamigāına), blue deer (nila), yellow deer (gora); cloth made from other materials, such as golden cloth (kanaka), cloth interwoven with golclen tissucs (kanagapatta, sa cloth with borders woven with golden tissues 83 (kanagakanta), embroidered with golden thread 84 (kanagakhaciya), tinscl-printing85 (kanagaphusiya),88 cloth made from tiger's skin (vaggha), panther's skin (vivaggha), printed with one pattern such as leaf ctc.87 (abharana), printed with many patterns such as leaf, candralekha, svastika, ghantıkā and mauktıka etc.88 (ābharanavicitta).80
T3 According to thc Anu Sů. 37, the kitaja cloth is of five variches, viz patta, malaya ansuga, cinām suya and Kimuraga (suranna in the Brh Kalon Bha 2 3662) The commentator explains the production of palla cloth from the insects that gathered round the flesh stored for the purpose in the jungle, the malaya cloth was produced in Malaya country, am suya wag produced in the country outside China, and cināmsirya in China itself According to the commentator of the Brhatkalpa Bhasya (2 3662) amsuka is silk manufactured of soft yarn, cināmSuka is either cocoon silk or chinese silk, and suzanna is golden coloured thread produced by a certain variety of silk worms Silk is referred to in the Mahabhārata as lilaja which was the product of Cina and Tählika According to the Mc' Crindle, raw silk was from the interior of Asia and manufactured at Kos If this is true, Kanseya garment refers to the town of Kos and not to the cocoons (Dr Molichand, Bhārati Vidya, 1) p 46 f)
13 According to Monier Williams (Sanskrit Diclionery), it is Calosanthes Indica Patrorna is also mentioned in the Mahābhārata (II 78 54)
1 Nasi cử Qbid) 76 ibid, but according to Silānka, anıla is camel 76 Nisi cu zbid
11
abrd
78 It was a luxurious woolen article mentioned in the Mahār agga (VIII. 1 36) According to the commentator of the Anu Sū (37), koyara was macic from the hair of a mouse (undura), or a goat (chagala, Bh Bhä V2 3662), Lotara is included among the five kinds hairy cloth mentioned in the Jain texts, otheis being inna (made from the sheep wool), ulliya (from the camel wool), muyaloma (from decr), and kitta (mixed with the hair of sheep etc ), Anu op cul; Brh. Bha, op, cat
79 Kambala or prārāra are mentioned in the Mahābhārata (II 71.48) in the Tarttır
81 In the Vedic period the pesa was gold. - designs The making of such a garment was a regular occupation of women, as is indicated by the word pesakāri (Vodic Index II, p 22)
83 Kanagena jassa patla kata, Nist cú (ibid) 83 antā passa kanagena katā (ibid) 84 Kanagasittena phullıya jasa pādiya (ibid).
85 The material used in wax-cloth ornamentation is an olcaginous substance (roghan) that is thickened with limc and coloured with pigments bcfore being applied In tinselprinting an adhesivc substance is printed over the texture and subscqucntly dusted with colouring matter In tinsel-printing the designs are printed with blocks At first glue, gum, lac or other adhesive substance is first printed over the fabric and gold leaf, silver leaf, tin foil, mercury amalgam or other colour materials, Indian Art at Delhi 1903, pp 267 f, by Sir George Watt,
86 Kanagena jassa phullitāu dinnār, jahā koddamena udded dijjati (Nisi.cú zbrd). ST Patrkādiekābharanena mandită (ibid) 88 Patrkacandalehikasvastikaghansikamoitikamaduhim mandită (ibid). 89 Aca. tbid.; Nisi. cū. ibid.
