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Shri Ashtapad Maha Tirth - II
proven by the existence of terminal moraines and other glacial features. As a result, there are no monumental remains in the valley bottoms, as these areas were once covered in thick ice or prone to flooding. The same barren aspect goes for Tsho Kavala and Tsho Kapala, two tiny glacial tarns nestled on top of a lateral moraine. Their location amid what was once a glacier, and their fierce climate, made them unfit for permanent human habitation. Due to the loss of ice, these bodies of water are on the verge of disappearing. Ancient human habitation at Mount Nandi (divides the two branches of the Serlung Chu river) is represented by a lone Dokhang discovered during KM-III at the southeastern foot of the mountain. This ruined all-stone corbelled residence measures 9.8 m x 8.5 m (31° 02.16' N. lat. / 81° 18.24' / 5330 m). It sits atop a narrow rocky shelf and is protected from the icy winds of the Kailash massif by Nandi. Its insulated geographic aspect permitted it to occupy a location further up valley than any other Dokhang at Serlung. There has been some speculation among Jains that the higher reaches of Mount Nandi (6000 m) may be some kind of gigantic ancient temple. This type of speculation can also be put to rest. The weird and wonderful shapes and forms of Mount Nandi were sculpted by nature, not the hand of humans. A close visual examination easily bears this out. As pointed out in an article entitled "Geological investigation of rock sculptures around Kailash Mountain", by Navin Juyal and P.S. Thakker, these formations were laid down during the Ecocene and Miocene eras, some 5 to 35 million years ago. Mount Kailash and Mount Nandi and other outliers were shaped by glacial action. The conglomerates that make up these mountains are too soft, irregular and crumbly for carving and massive building. 3. Gyangdrag To the east of Serlung is the branch valley known as Gyangdrag. Above the Buddhist monastery of the same name is a large amphitheatre-shaped valley containing the carcasses of more than 30 Dokhang. The high level of settlement in this sector reflects its status as a probable capital of Zhang Zhung. The Gyangdrag amphitheatre is an ideal location for the placement of an ancient settlement. It is well protected from harsh northern winds and it has a warm southern attitude. There are also permanent water sources at Gyangdrag, something not to take lightly in the arid conditions of western Tibet. Furthermore, stones for building the ancient all-stone residences are in ample supply in the area. During the KM-III explorations, Ms. Walkerman and I discovered three more Dokhang in the vicinity of Gyangdrag. The most interesting of these is situated at the highest elevation of any ancient residence at Mount Kailash, and for that matter, in all of Upper Tibet (31° 01.13 ' N. lat. / 81° 17.94' E. long. / 5470 m). Only measuring 4 m x 7.5 m this highly deteriorated ancient residence (designated UW-XIX) was built on a rocky bench along the rim of the Gyangdrag amphitheatre. It is perched 70 or 80 m higher than the next highest Dokhang in the area. While combing the hillsides of Gyangdrag for any signs of Shri Ashtapad we reached a maximum elevation of 5580 m, more than 100 m higher than the highest Dokhang. At this elevation exposure to the elements is extremely intense, as it is above the rim of the natural amphitheatre. This elevation supports much less vegetation and the ground is far less stable than lower-lying
A reconnaissance mission to locate the Ashtapad Temple
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