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A CULTURAL STUDY OF THE NISITHA CURNI
the same. The commentary on the Bșhatkalpa Bhäsya explains kutava as jina and kitta as cloth manufactured from the residue of the hair or wool after the best part of it had been utilized for making better grades of cloth.1 According to a Cūrņi quoted by the editor of the Bịhatkalpa, kutava as well as kitta was the cloth manufactured from different parts of the goat's hair.
Besides, following the definition that "jaṁgiya was the cloth manufactured from the hair of the movable beings”, the andaga and kidaga varieties of cloth have also been included in this group. Andaga was the cloth manufactured from the swan's egg (haṁsa-gabbha). * According to Motichandra, it perhaps refers to the cloth hansa-dukūlas which has been so widely referred to in the classical Sanskrit texts. Kidaga was. evidently the cloth manufactured from the insects and it included the varieties of silken cloth like the patta and kosigāra.6 The monks, however, were to take the patta or kosigāra cloth only when the cotton or hemp-cloth was not available.
(ii) Bhangiya-Bhamgiya was the cloth manufactured from the fibres of the linseed plant.? It must have been a cloth manufactured from the bhāga tree which is still produced in Kumon district in U.P. and is known as bhagela.s
1. Bịh. V r. 4, p. 1018; Motichandra, History of Indian Costumes from
the 3rd Century A. D. to the end of the 7th Century A. D', JISOA.,
Vol. XII, p. 28. 2. Brh. Vr. 4, p. 1018; also Motichandra, op. cit., p. 28. 3. Giftsit SETZTNC. 2 p. 39. 4. NC. 2, p. 38; also commentary on Anu yogadvära, sū. 37. 5. Motichandra, Prācina Bharatiya Vesabhūsā, p. 145. 6. NC. 2, p. 38. In the Anuyogadvāra, Si. 38, the malaya, ansuka,
cināńsuka and kimirāga are mentioned as four varieties of kidaga
cloth. 7. TIHA virulet-NC. 2, p. 57; also NC. 2, p. 37. According to the
commentary on the Brhatkalpa Bhāsya, bhuaiigika was either manufactured from linseed plant or from the inner portion of karila-vansa
-Brh. V!. 4, p. 1018. 8. See--Motichandra's article on Dress in Bharatiya Vidyā, Vol. I, Pt.
I, p. 40; also LAI., p. 128.
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