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11
MATERIAL CULTURE
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quite lasting, while the kusumbha ( safflower) colour could easily fade after washing. 1 A more simple and cheap method of dyeing was to dye with the red-mud (kasāya)2 which was usually resorted to by the ascetics of the different sects.
Stitching of the Clothes-Although the unsewn garments like the sadaga and pauranawere worn by the people, yet the stitched garments like the kañcuka', shorts and tunics", which required a proper stitching, were also used. There was a special class of tailors or darners known as tunnagae who were adept in the art of sewing (sivvaņa) and darning (tunnana)."
Various technical terms related to cutting and sewing are to be found in the text. The measurement (pramana) for measuring the cloth was one's own fore-arm (svahasta) 8 and the breadth and the length of the cloth were called vistära and Qyama.' The borders of the cloth were known as patta or dasā.10. Clothes were divided into three categories on the basis of their stitching-(i) bahu parikamma or clothes that required more cutting or sewing for making them fit to wear, (ii) appa parikamma or clothes which required very little stitching and (iii) ahakada or clothes which required no stitching. 11 The Jaina monks, however, were to accept only the ahakada
which were probably told by the Persian traders to keep up the secrets of its manufacture and also to emphasise its rarity and high
cost (Gopal, L., Economic Life in Northern India, p. 152 ). 1. FEHTTATI 3TTATTADT, STUFTITAROT PARTITI-NC. 1, p. 6; Bfh. Vs. 5, p.
1310. 2. NC. 3, p. 569. 3. NO. 3, pp. 568-69. 4. NC. 4, p. 282. 5. NO. 2, p. 191. 6. NO. 2, p. 3. 7. NC. 2, p. 58, also p. 3. 8. NC. 2, p. 190. 9. NC. 2, p. 93. 10. NO. 2, p. 68. 11. NO. 2, p. 58.
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