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mountain range called the Bayinzarkanaderik, from which triokles a small stream past the camp.
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99.
This latter consisted of a group of "gourts" lying round a tribal temple built half-way up a large natural mound, the latter being surmounted by a "joes" of the ordinary pattern and a large "obo" of sticks to which white and yellow streamers were suspended. The Prince Ochingwang lives in two white gourts in summer, and in a low mud house behind them in winter: in this latter he is able to have a Russian stove. His Highness sent me his greetings on arrival, and kindly caused two "gourts" to be erected specially for us. I called on him in state in the afternoon, and found a fat lad of some 20 years of age, rather shy, but with agreeable manners. He had never been to Peking, and I gathered that the trouble and expense of getting there and back were the reasons. He had visited Chuguchak several times to pay homage to the Imperial tablet, and had come into contact with Russians there, which explained why his rooms were full of photographs, watches, clocks, and the inevitable gramophone. He told me that no foreigner had previously visited this his "capital," and seemed very gratified that one had come. He said his favourite amusement was fox-hunting with an eagle, and that he indulged
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Semiapalatinsk
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Kashgar • Yarkand
SIBERIA
Kulje
JUNGARIA
THE INDIAN ANTIQUARY
Chugas
Photo.
20
Kabda
Burton-take
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DUNGANS
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in this sport five days a week in winter. The huge bird was brought into the room during our conversation, and made such a din that I had to beg it should be removed.
The Prince was dressed in a dark red silk robe and wore huge spectacles and the usual Chinese pork-pie hat with peacock feather and red button.
After he had agreed to furnish fresh camels for the six days' journey westwards to Chuguchak we spent two idle days at his camp, and were treated with the utmost hospitality possible in those parts. His Highness was indeed almost embarrassing in his attentions from morn till night. He was constantly sending over Tartar koumiss and meals from the princely kitchen for myself, whilst rolls of silk and money presents kept arriving for my Chinese boy. As each meal consisted of a whole bucketful of soup and half-a-dozen dishes of meats prepared in different ways, it was difficult to dispose of it without giving offence. However, the two days soon passed, and we were thankful to have found such a comfortable lodging, for "sleep knows no pride and scorns not cots of village hinds," and if the village hinds do assume the semblance and rank of royalty, well, so long as they are prepared to show their neighbour a kindness, nothing else matters.
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Ipsauta
N TORGOTS
Gob
(S
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110
[NOVEMBER, 1920
Urga
MAP SHOWING WRITER'S ROUTE.
120
Kwai-hue-chang
PEKIN
110.
Hwang-he
CHA
130
120
50
