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waved a brush of cow's hair in front of the shrine, whilst the paid officiant was decking the big idol in its jewellery. He then placed a little image of a Tirthankara in front of the larger image in the inner shrine and bathed it and marked it with the auspicious marks. It was interesting to notice that whilst doing this he kept on showing the little idol its own reflection in a pocket looking-glass, as a thoughtful ladies' maid might have done to her mistress as she assisted at her toilette; he completed his service by offering the articles on the tray to the Tirthankara.
The next cheapest service to this, the Pañcakalyāṇa puja, costs the worshipper about five-and-a-quarter rupees.
The singing of the idol's praises, Saitavarnana Stuti, can be done at any time and without the worshipper requir ing to bathe or change. A man walks into the temple, makes the signs we noticed before
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on a board and sings the idol's praises out of a hymn-book. At Śatruñjaya behind one of the main temples are housed several solid silver chariots, and for the sum of about thirty shillings a pilgrim can seat himself in a tiny silver barouche and be drawn round the temple accompanied by silver elephants and other delights, and so feel that he is doing his pilgrimage de luxe.
The pilgrimage of all others, however, to try and do at Satruñjaya is the 'Ninety-nine'. It takes about three months to perform, for the pilgrim must toil up the thousands of steps that lead from the bottom of the hill to the summit, encircle the most famous temple, and tramp down to the bottom again ninety-nine separate times, and the last days he must observe as strict fasts from food and drink. When the last toilsome ascent has been made, the
