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SEPTEMBER, 1921)
THE SCATTERGOODS AND THE EAST INDIA COMPANY
That Gujarât produced the best bâfta is shown by the Company's order to Surat in 1653 for as many calicoes as could be provided, especially "Gujarat baftaes." Foster, op. cit., 1651-1654, p. 196. The term baftu in India is now applied to silk as well as cotton fabrics. See Yusuf Ali, Monograph on Silk Fabrics, quoted by Yula Hobs-Jobson, 8.0. Bafta. It is also the name of a cotton manufacture in Great
Britain, woven especially for export to Africa. Byram Pante. Bairâm panti, in rows, having lines. A special striped "Byrami."
The term "Byram" is obscure and the references to the cotton piece-goods so called do not help to clear up its origin. It is possible that it was so designated from an individual of that name, either in his honour or because he excelled in the weaving of this class of goods. There was, in fact (so Sir Dinsha Wacha informs me, on the authority of Mr. Dalal of Broach) a Parsi called Bairâm Ekoo who had an establish ment of numerous handlooms in Broach and the neighbourhood in the 19th century.
In 1647, the factors at Ahmadabad complained of the "slackness of our Byram men in bringing in their cloth." Foster, Eng. Fact., 1646-1650, p. 102 (See also footnote on same page). Latar in the same year, they suggest the purchase of a further number of "byrams" (ibid., p. 128), and in 1648 the Council at Surat note
that they are forwarding some "byrams" from Agra to the Company. Ibid., p. 189. Catehes, Catchaes. Hind. kach, kachha. a loin-cloth, drawers, and hence, a calico
used for such purpose in the East. "Catches" were manufactured principally at Tuticorin.
In 1645, a sum of £3,000 was invented at "Tuttacoreen" in "catches, a sort of cloth very vendible in the Manielas and all parts," and in 1647 the factors in Persia wrote that the "cocheaw cloth" was much sought after. In consequence, the Falcon was sent to Tuticorin to get a supply of " cattches ... vendable in Persia to a very good advance. But the cloth was not favourably received in England, for in 1650 the factors at Surat remarked that as the Company was dissatisfied with the "cochea" cloth, bought on the Malabar Coast, no more should be provided. Foster,
Eng. Fact., 1642-1645, p. 246 : 1646-1650, pp. 100, 106, 257. Derguzzes. Hind. cazi, a coarse cotton cloth, dhar. the body. Coarse cotton cloths,
suitable for body garments. There are frequent allusions to "guzzees" in the Factory Records, but except in the sales lists, I have found no other mention of "derguzzes,"
Gazî (literally, sold by the yard, gaz), like bafta, seems to have been applied to any kind of cotton cloth. We find "brown (unbleached] guzzee baftes," "gussees" that are to be dyed, and "longe guzzes” among the goods sent home in 1649 and
1650. See Foster Eng. Fact., 1646-1650, pp. 234, 277, 299. Dimity. This term, indicating a stout cotton fabric with raised stripes and fancy
figures, was familiar in England long before the foundation of the East India Company. The first instance of its use given in the Oxford English Dictionary is in 1440. In the 15th and 16th centuries it was used for either coarse cotton or woollen material. The Oxford English Dictionary derives the word from Mediæval Latin, dimitum, through Greek, di-dis, twice, and mitis, thrend of the warp. The same authcrity suggests that the final y may represent the i in the Italian plural dimiti.
The English merchants, however, fuand in India a similar Oriental term, Pers. dimyali, for a coarse cotton cloth, and the "dymittees" sent home to the Company appear to indicate this material, as there is no mention of any pattern like that on the English goods. In 1650, the factors at Surat remarked that the "dymittees" sent to England were dearer than those of 1649, but that the "difference” was made up by their larger size. Foster, Eng. Fact., 1646-1650, p. 296.
