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THE INDIAN ANTIQUARY.
NOVEMBER, 1 21
The term "pintado" was used generally in the 17th century for chintzes from Agra, Ahmadabad, Surat, etc., but the name "palempore " was confined to bedspreads from Madras, and especially Masulipatam.
The derivation of "palempore " accepted by Yule (Hobson-Jobson, 8.0. Palempore) is that the word is a corruption of a hybrid (Hind. and Pers.) palang-posh, a bed-cover, possibly perverted to "palempore" by the existence of "salempore" (see below), a cotton stuff. Pringle's suggestion (Madras Selections, IV. 71) that the word is derived from Palanpur in Gujarat," an emporium for the manufacture of Northern India," seems unlikely, since the making of "palempores" was essentially a South Indian industry, and the term, though occasionally used incorrectly for chintz of various qualities, meant strictly a superior material made at Masulipatam.
In 1619 the factors at Surat stated that "Pintathoe quilts" were unprocurable at Ahmadabad, and in 1621 " pintado quilts" were provided from Agra. In 1653 the Company mentioned "Pintadoe quilts” among the goods to be furnished from Surat. There appears to be no instance of an order for “ palem pores" from the northern factories. At the same time, the fame of the Masulipatam manufacture is mentioned by Fryer in 1673. See Foster, Eng. Facl., 1618-1621, pp. 46, 51;
1651-1654, p. 1996; Fryer, quoted in Hobson-Jobson, 6.v. Palompore. SALLAM POR ES. The Oxford Eng. Dict. gives this word as "of unascertained origin.
Cf. palampore." But there seems no reason to contest the derivation of the Madras Manual of Administration (vol. III, 8.v. Sauley), Telugu sale, a weaver, and Skt, pura, a town: cloth made in the "Wearers' Town," i.e., Shalambarigudda, Tel.= Salampur in Hindustani, a district or suburb of Nellore, in Madras. "Sallampores" were half the length of ordinary "Palempores" or cloths of 18 yards long. Like "moory," this material seems to have been either a white or a blue cloth, and in the 17th century the "Sallampores" of Masulipatam bore the highest reputation.
That “Sallam pores" were made in different qualities is shown by the Company's orders in 1676. Their list of manufactured goods required includes 60,000 Ordinary Sallampoores" to be provided by their factors at Fort St. George, 20,000 "Ditto, to be provided at Metchlepatam (Masulipatam)" and 12,000 “fine Sallampoores, whereof 8000 at Metchlepatam." A further list for the following year included 60,000 "ordinary Sallampoores from No. 3 to No. 12." Diaries of Streynsham
Master, ed. Temple, I. 257, 258. SALLOWES. Now an universal term in India for a Turkey-red cotton cloth, generally
known as "red saloo," with a doubtful popular derivation from Hind. sálů. But it is more likely that the word is derived from Telugu sálu, cloth, because in the 17th century sáld, then generally white (but 1619, "Selaus, Seolas red," Foster, Eng. Fact.. 1618-1621, pp. 93, 94), came from the South and from the Deccan (Golconda), near the Telugu country.
In 1647 the factors at Surat and Gombroon wrote to the Company, "Sallooes
... are brought from Golconda ... the finer qualities yield consi. derable profit, but the poor sorts are unvendible." In the same year we find a requisition for "Halloes for ensigns and flags " at Swally. Foster, Eng. Fact., 16471651, pp. 79, 100, 123. In 1676 the Company ordered 1500 "fine Sallooes made at Golcondab," and these, Streynsham Master remarked, were "the same sort of cloth as Oringall Beetelaes," i.e., beatilha, veiling, made at Warangal. Diaries of Streynsham Master, ed. Temple, I. 257, 292.
The term "sallas " is used in the present day for grey cotton goods manufactured in the Bombay Presidency.
