Indian Antiquary Vol 46

SR No.: 032538
Original Sutra Author: N/A
Author: Richard Carnac Temple, Devadatta Ramkrishna Bhandarkar
Publisher: Swati Publications
Publication Year: 1984
Total Pages: 508
Language: English
Classification: Book_English
File Size: 20 MB

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THE INDIAN ANTIQUARY
(JUNE, 1917
King of Afghanistan, 1 was anxious to see new ground, and was therefore glad to move now by a parallel but far more difficult route by which westernmost Hunzo could be gained from the headwaters of the Yarkhun and Karambar (or Ashkuman) Rivers. This route allowed me to sight the Showarshur branch of the Darkot Glacier, now completely closed by an impassable ice-fall, and to examine more closely the interesting instance of bifurcation by which the glacier above the Karambar saddle discharges its drainage partly towards the Yarkhun or Chitral River and partly into the lake forming the head of the Kararnbar River.
On its south side the route skirts an almost unexplored region of high ice-clad peaks and big glaciers, and the snouts, which the latter have pushed across the gorge of the Karambar River, togethor with the huca old moraines encountered in the main valley lower down, constituted serious obstacles. They made all the more welcome the friendly help given by Captain Stirling, who, as an expert mountaineer, took pleasure in accompany. ing me on those four days of hard marching and climbing.
Beyond the Ashkuman River we were met by fresh porters, collected from the settle ment of hardy Wakhi immigrants lower down that much-confined valley. The ascent made with them on September 2 to the Chillinji Pass (circ. 17,400 feet high) proved a diffionit task.
The snowy weather prevailing all through August had rendered the very stoep snow slopes to be climbed still more trying and had added greatly to avalanche risks. The pass nad not been traversed by any one for a long number of years, and only one old man sent with us had ever been across. So it was a great relief, when, after eight hours' toil, we safely reached the col, nearly 5,000 feet above camp. It offered a grand view over the ex tensive glaciers which meet at the head of the Chapursan Valley, but the icy gale sweeping it made even a short rest difficult. Fortunately the great glacier below us proved less trying. owing to the fresh snow which had adequately covered up most of the crevasses, and after a descent of five hours more we found a dry spot by its side where we could bivouac in safety under the shelter of a moraine. Some of our coolies did not turn up till next morning, but they had wisely kept moving all through the bitterly cold night. Their safe arrival caused me great relief and so also did the assurance that my feet, in spite of the loss of toes and the impaired circulation which resulted from my frost-bite accident at the close of the former journey, could stand well thirteen hours' struggle over snow and ice. The snout of the Chil linji Glacier was not passed until after a descent of another 4 miles in the morning, and a short distance beyond I had the satisfaction to find fresh transport from Hunza awaiting us. The arrangements made weeks ahead through my old acquaintance Humayun Beg, the Wazir of Hunza, had not failed me.
After this experience our progress through Hunza seemed easy. The Chapursan Valley, in spite of the huge moraines which the glaciers south have pushed down into it, contains more stretches of level ground than probably all the rest of Hunza. It was hence a feature of special interest to note the extensive areas of old cultivation which we passed on the 25 miles' march between Baba-ghundi and Spandrinj. Neither want of water for irrigation nor present climatic conditions at this elevation from circ. 11,000 to 10,300 feet seem to furnish an adequate explanation for their abandonment. Re-occupation is recent and proceeding slowly.
(To be continued.)